Making that Bullet Collator

[6bg6ga]

First of all a hats off to jmorris for his abilities to make something from nothing. Some of the rest of us are probably capable but simply either don't have access to mills and lathes, welders and such or don't have the time. I fall into two of these catagories the time one and the "I don't have the equipment to do so catagory" So, what is one to do? Some of us have the money to plunk it down and simply buy what you want and my hat is off to you. Some like myself like to save money. Ok, Ill say it I'm a cheap SOB. I like to DIY my projects simply for two reasons. 1.) I save money and arrive at something that works well with less spent. 2.) I guess I simply like to play with things when I can make an hour or two somewhere between dinner and bed time.

In another thread you can read that I have a basic bullet collator kit coming soon. In a short information gathering stint on the internet I found there are several motors that are available when putting a kit together. Two of them I will list and the first is a MrBulletfeeder motor and the second is a JGY-370 motor that is available from places like Amazon or ebray. Note* one MUST select the motor the 370 version with the correct speed. There are other motors available from places like Grangers for example.

So, armed with a motor, a home made speed control, a 2A wallwart ( I have a bunch of these) power supply along with a printed unit one is ready to sit down and begin to put together a cloned a machine that is possibly a collection of different ideas in order to speed up the quest to make even more ammunition. So, what is next? Well, got to get those bullets from that collator to the collection tube on your presses dropper assembly. Possibilities of that springy tube thing are as I can see to be several. First one could purchase that spring thingy from MrBulletdropper for around $12 plus shipping and have something that will probably mate up with the collator. But what are you going to do if your just cheap like me? Got to looking around the old tool box and discovered a spring thing that I used to slip over refrigeration tubing in order to bend it without collapsing the tubing walls and making a kink. So, will that work? I think it might just work or possibly allow one to use a bit of scrap copper tubing to make most but not all of the delivery tube that will be needed.

I don't have a Dillon 650 case collator but rather a home made unit so the idea of using it to hold the bullet collator will be out in my case. A stand will have to be fabricated from some steel square tubing in order to mount my bullet collator.

Pictures to follow when my unit arrives.

[clodhopper]

Looking forward to your future posts building a bullet collator.

Most every device known to man was the result of some one looking around and finding what was handy and making the rest.

[HATCH]

Mine is suppose to be shipping on monday.
I am going with the MBF motor and power supply.
I am going to fab up a drop switch so I can use it on my star setup.

[Redwoode]

Will it work bullet base down reloading and be adaptable to nose down for Star sizing by chance?

[HATCH]

Yes.


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[HATCH]

https://youtu.be/EXOjvc8Z3ZU

[6bg6ga]

That is a great video. It makes you want to get one:bigsmyl2:

[HATCH]

Btw takes like 17 hrs to print the base from what Tony said


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[6bg6ga]

I believe he is after the best resolution best finish and tolerances that are possible.

[6bg6ga]

Mine was supposed to ship on Monday also but after looking at the production time I think it probably won't be done until late Monday. Anyway, attention to detail is a quality I admire and my hat is off to Tony for doing his absolute best in making a really decent product.

[6bg6ga]

Will it work bullet base down reloading and be adaptable to nose down for Star sizing by chance?

That is one reason I pulled the trigger and bought one. Mine will do double duty on my Star and Magma and then on my Dillon 650 press. I'll probably end up with several more of them as time goes on.

[6bg6ga]

Carbon fibre was mentioned in the video. Out of curiosity what is the designation for that? I have found ABS and PLA. Just trying to learn about this 3D world.

[HATCH]

It’s pla with carbon fiber
From what I read it will wear out your nozzle faster but it is more durable.


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[6bg6ga]

My MBF motor arrived yesterday. Hopefully the bullet collator will be here soon.

Got to looking at the motor today and they couldn't even throw in the 4 mounting nuts. Now, a trip to the hardware store before I can use it. Thanks, Mr Bullet Feeder for being so cheap.

[HATCH]

You will get to play with yours first. I have to go out of town on Thursday


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[6bg6ga]

Mine probably hasn't been made yet. I go out of town Monday.

UPDATE !!!!


GOT A TRACKING NUMBER FROM TONY. He must have worked all weekend to put our orders together. Expecting mine friday. I have a really good feeling about this. I haven't been this excited for a long time. Usually when I order something I have to wait a very long time and I surely can't complain about this time.:bigsmyl2:

[HATCH]

There is no instructions provided.
I got mine today and will look at how it goes together.


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[Tazza]

Looking forward to seeing how these come out.

I'm a cheap SOB too, but it is what it is. The more money i save on one thing, means i can buy more gun related things :)

[6bg6ga]

Received mine last night. I was surprised when I got to see the product. It was really nice looking and it was clearly evident that slowing down the production process increased the quality of the finish. Looking forward to putting it together this weekend if the mother in law duties don't get in the way.

[HATCH]

Houston, we got a problem
I bought two units.
One for my star sizer(nose down) and one for my dillon 650 (base down)

The nose down unit needed a blocker plug.
Lucky, I had a 3D printer and the guy sent me the code to print the plug.
The bigger problem is that the nose down adapter appears to not let the bullet flip from base to nose.
You can adjust it to drop nose down but if it’s base down it will just ride around the plate and eventually you will have a plate full
Of base down Bullets.
I will take some pictures tomorrow

[jmorris]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqjjiKPX5iQ

[HATCH]

I got a updated file from the designer for that piece based on a sketch I sent him.
It’s on the printer now
It’s nice having a 3D printer to make stuff.


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[Tazza]

I wish i had a 3d printer, i'm sure the poor thing would run 24/7 making all sorts of things :)

Looking forward to seeing it in action when your parts arrive.

[HATCH]

Ok. It’s printed. It’s tight in both collators I have. I need to file it some.
Holding the collator in my hand nose first dropped. Base first attempted to flip. 50% flipped and 50% got pulled out of the bullet plate

I think it was because I didn’t have the angle right and I was using 41 mag bullets and a 45acp plate


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[Mxrick55555]

I recently borrowed a 3d printer from a friend and I’m afraid I’m going to wear it out it has been running darn near 24hrs a day since I picked it up from him last Monday. It prints slow but I often catch myself walking past it and then getting stuck just watching it go it’s mesmerizing lol

[HATCH]

Most people that have 3D printers have them running almost 24hrs a day.


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[Tazza]

My father in-law does the same with his robot vacuum, he sits and watches it, trying to predict it's path :)

[denul]

6bg6ga -
In reading these posts, it appears that you and Hatch have ordered components to build a bullet collator from someone named Tony, and that that device will overcome a major limitation of Mister Bulletfeeder, in having a nose down option.I must have missed some other thread somewhere, indicating who Tony is, or how to contact him.I have not been able to determine if this is an option for anyone else, or if this is a limited development project not intended for the participation of others. If there was an option to order, I would probably exercise that, but if I am intruding, or have missed something,please let me know.

[HATCH]

I am going to be honest with you right now because I don't want you to order something that isn't what you think it is.

As designed the unit will NOT do nose down. It is a work in progress according to the designer.
It will do standard base down and seems to do it well based on the youtube videos.

The design can be found here -> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314
Keep in mind that depending on your printer and your settings it takes between 18hrs and 3 days to print.
If your interested you might be able to find someone local to print it for you or you can contact Tony via PM and see what he says.

A little lessson - 3d printing - Everything is printed in layers. There are 4 layer sizes commoningly used. .06, .1, .15 , and .2
The smaller the layer size diameter the more accurate the print is, the better the print is, but the more time it takes.
Fill - this is the space that is between the inner and outer layers. It is how SOLID the inside is.
It can be 0 to 100% with 100% being solid plastic no voids. 0% being nothing inside. Common is 20%.
The higher the fill the longer it takes.
Keep in mind that layer size uses the same amount of material regardless of setting but the higher the fill % the more material you use.

I spoke to the designer via email and he recommends a .1 layer rate and 80% fill
On my printer, thats almost 3 days solid of printing and 1/2 a roll ($30) of the cheap filament.
I would do .06 and 80% on the base itself and .06 and 100% on all the small pieces.

The problem with someone else printing stuff for you is that your taking their word on what their settings are.
Layer size can be spotted but .06 vs .1 and .1 vs .15 and .15 vs 2 look the same.
Meaning if you wanted .06 but they printed .1 your not gonna notice.
And your not going to notice the amount of fill is in the inside either until you drill a hole in it and find out that past the outer layer its at 20% :-(

Your going to have to fit everything.
The collator plates will need to be sanded on the outer diameter. Mine rub on the inside of the base side walls.
I used a MBF motor because it was easier and that is what I recommend. I suspect that he will stop selling them to non-customers soon

I am going to print one myself later this week @ .06 and 80%
gonna take 3 days worth of printing so I hope I don't get a power outage during that time LOL

[Mark2215]

Here we go again, why did I have to find this thread?

I have a feeling this is going to be another expensive obsession. I have a Mr. Bulletfeeder for my XL650 and have adapted it to my star sizer but it's a pain swapping back and forth. I've also been looking at 3D printers and think this project is just enough of an excuse to finally pull the trigger. Time to make a dedicated collator for the sizer.

[HATCH]

Well this collator would be perfect for the 650. It’s a work in progress for nose down though


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[ulav8r]

A few days ago, following a link from somewhere to youtube, the linked video or another that came up afterward, there was a video showing a mechanism to turn a bullet from base down to nose down. There was a disk about 3 inch diameter with 4 cavities around the circumference. The collator dropped the bullet base first through a tube into the top of the disk, which as it rotated dropped the bullet nose first into another tube.

[6bg6ga]

A few days ago, following a link from somewhere to youtube, the linked video or another that came up afterward, there was a video showing a mechanism to turn a bullet from base down to nose down. There was a disk about 3 inch diameter with 4 cavities around the circumference. The collator dropped the bullet base first through a tube into the top of the disk, which as it rotated dropped the bullet nose first into another tube.

As Charles has mentioned we are struggling with the nose down operation of the collator. With the present nose down plate I cannot get it to work. I'm going to give it a go this weekend and see what I can come up with and if I can get it working I will share my findings. Having said the above it would be highly possible to add the bullet flipper for a lack of a better word Jmorris's bullet flipping station that has the bullets traveling into a tube and going almost straight up and then gravity causes it to fall nose down. Its a simple solution to the difficult problem of getting bullets to go nose down.

I don't have the link to Jmorris's bullet flipper but it is a simple elegant solution to the problem. There are other you tube videos that show a circular wheel that simply turns and drops the bullet nose down. * THIS would be something helpful if someone could print up either. I would be willing to buy either.

If I can borrow some mill time in a friends machine shop or talk my boss into letting me use the one that is sitting idle in the shop I could easily machine a plate that would allow for a nose down drop. However, the problem of the bullets that sit on their base is still there and needs to be solved.

At any rate this is DIY and as a result has its share of problems and solutions in good time. The problems will be solved and I would say to those currrently on the fence to weigh the problems and the possibility of solutions arriving shortly.

[6bg6ga]

As Charles has mentioned we are struggling with the nose down operation of the collator. With the present nose down plate I cannot get it to work. I'm going to give it a go this weekend and see what I can come up with and if I can get it working I will share my findings. Having said the above it would be highly possible to add the bullet flipper for a lack of a better word Jmorris's bullet flipping station that has the bullets traveling into a tube and going almost straight up and then gravity causes it to fall nose down. Its a simple solution to the difficult problem of getting bullets to go nose down.

I don't have the link to Jmorris's bullet flipper but it is a simple elegant solution to the problem. There are other you tube videos that show a circular wheel that simply turns and drops the bullet nose down. * THIS would be something helpful if someone could print up either. I would be willing to buy either.

If I can borrow some mill time in a friends machine shop or talk my boss into letting me use the one that is sitting idle in the shop I could easily machine a plate that would allow for a nose down drop. However, the problem of the bullets that sit on their base is still there and needs to be solved.

At any rate this is DIY and as a result has its share of problems and solutions in good time. The problems will be solved and I would say to those currrently on the fence to weigh the problems and the possibility of solutions arriving shortly.

Check post #21 for the bullet flipper

[denul]

I appreciate the update regarding the status of this project, and intend to follow it along. I have had some modest results with an adapter to the mr. Bullet feeder to do nose down, but not enough to propose it to anyone else.

[Mxrick55555]

It took some time but I designed and 3d printed an adaptor for the mr bullet feeder that so far has worked reliably with 45 200gr SWC, 230gr RN, 225gr TCFP, 9mm 115gr Rn. I had some trouble with 38 158gr SWC but not sure if these would even feed reliably base down. They stick up quite a bit past the top of the 9mm/38 plate and so while being flipped over actually get flipped completely out of the slot in the disk with some falling back into the cooalator and some not coming all the way out of the slot and laying sideways where they jam up the collator. https://youtu.be/a1TeExjkbfY
https://youtu.be/dY8nXYSzZfA
https://youtu.be/LNRPPYvEt-g
https://youtu.be/Ku-8rlTcvHA

[HATCH]

The J flipper (j Morris gravity flipper) would work but I think the collator can be made to work. Just got to figure it out.
Maybe a complete redesign.
Have to play with it.


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[Mark2215]

I too made an adapter to work with the Mr. Bulletfeeder that works reliably except for WC bullets. I'm going to print out one of these collators and start working on the nose down adapter. If I can't get it to work I'll use this feeder on the xl650 and the Mr. Bulletfeeder on the sizer.

[ulav8r]

Just saw the video in post 21. Very neat. Using Internet Explorer, the videos do not show in my browser. I have to reply using quote, then copy the link and post it in a new tab to see the videos: however, this time I opened the thread with Opera and the video displays in the post.

Yes, Jmorris's bullet flipper could be printed, but it would probably be quicker and cheaper to fabricate from a plastic cutting board and a sheet of plexiglass/lexan/acrylic sheet. Variables to be accounted for in design: bullet length/weight will affect required distance before entering, the minimum radius of channel and the distance past entry into final drop; diameter will determine width and depth of channel. There may also be others.

[Plate plinker]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShGDpy9GT5Q

My version made with a table saw, drill press, router and some time. The nose flipper was actually the simple part. I struggled with the drop tube mouth the most, because the speed of the motor may be just a little quicker than it should be. This video is made before I actually finished the entire thing.

[Tazza]

Plate plinker - nice job, simple yet effective, do you have any videos of the "tracks" you cut in the base to direct the nose down one to fall and the base down to keep going and flip?

[HATCH]

I really like the push piece that puts the bullets back into the plate. Like it much better then the spring loaded flipper


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[6bg6ga]

The J flipper (j Morris gravity flipper) would work but I think the collator can be made to work. Just got to figure it out.
Maybe a complete redesign.
Have to play with it.


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I was just thinking of a plan "B" in case the collator can't be easily made to nose down bullets.

[Plate plinker]

I can take better photos later today.

[jmorris]

Yes, Jmorris's bullet flipper could be printed, but it would probably be quicker and cheaper to fabricate from a plastic cutting board and a sheet of plexiglass/lexan/acrylic sheet. Variables to be accounted for in design: bullet length/weight will affect required distance before entering, the minimum radius of channel and the distance past entry into final drop; diameter will determine width and depth of channel. There may also be others.

At some point something will have to change but the video I posted above were 9mm pistol bullets and this is a 220gn .308 bullet in the same flipper.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3kAwt3oKQE

It’s such an insanely simple design when I woke up with the idea, I figured it couldn’t work.

[jmorris]

It’s a lot easier just as effective and more universal than others I have built.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Cc1hUj343w

[jmorris]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MeWZHWlVZkk

[Plate plinker]

Here we go.
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That white is really hard to photograph. Hence the black sharpie.
At the drop hole it is just a simple ramp to guide the point of my 9mm cone shaped 124 gr into the hole. That boo lit design does not like being nose down. The base flip is a triangle shape and works really slick at moving the base over.

I found the build like a puzzle and I do enjoy a challenge, also I am currently home for winter so I had the time. If I was working at the time it probably makes more sense to buy the MBF ready to go and modify it.

[Tazza]

That is pretty much the same setup as i came up with when i looked at mine today. Hopefully i will get a chance to do it on the weekend. See if it works for me.

[HATCH]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/fc4ed7130bc9ad63b6596890159a68c1.jpg

Got emailed to me. Work in progress.

[Redwoode]

I could see that working fine if some spacing between casts for the turnover. However, if multiples come down close together seems they might bunch up and stop at the turnover.

[AmmoMike83]

Hi guys, nice to see my bullet feeder here :D

@Redwoode: That's true. You have to slow down the collator motor speed.

I made a change in the turning plate:
https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4668067

- AmmoMike83

[Mark2215]

Mike,
Thanks for all the work you have done on the design.

I'm borrowing a Maker select plus for the next couple weeks to work on this project. Hopefully the printer will be up to this task! I can't wait to get started but won't get the printer until Sunday.

[AmmoMike83]

Hey Mark, you are very welcome. I hope it's not your first 3D printing attempt ever? Cause it's a difficult project. The printing bed has to be leveled perferctly. And btw. order a "Dremel"-Tool, too! ;)

[Mark2215]

I have a dremel and many different bits. It will be my first attempt at 3d printing. I'll start with the small parts and work my way up. I have free use of the machine, just had to buy my own filament. If I screw up I'll be out $20.

[AmmoMike83]

@Mark2215 wish you good luck. If you have any troubles. PM me!

[Redwoode]

Mike, I like your Uplula pickup & speedloader on thingiverse. Slick

[HATCH]

https://youtu.be/TDCV6u_IAHA


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[jmorris]

I could see that working fine if some spacing between casts for the turnover. However, if multiples come down close together seems they might bunch up and stop at the turnover.

Watch the video I posted in #21. Bullets don’t come out of a collator like water out of a faucet. The spacing on the wheel forces them to drop out one at a time. Same thing keeps them from locking up dropping out into a tube, one at a time.

[Redwoode]

As usual, more than one route to get there. (Feed Star Sizer point down.)

I have watched many thousands base down out of my MBF. I'd like to have as reliable a point down output solution for it or another bullet collator.

[Redwoode]

I've read the MBF folks did a beta trial on a conversion some years back. The video at least looked more than promising. I've reached out several times and been told they're out but will be making some. Over two years now.......

[Tazza]

I wonder if that is because they didn't feel the market for nose down was high enough? I know most would want base down for feeding a loading press instead of a sizing press....

[HATCH]

I heard the problem was it wouldn’t work with EVERY bullet. SWC designs are harder.

I really think this 3D printed one needs to made nose down only
It could be sold without restriction as MBF is base down.
All it would take is the standard drop hole isn’t printed.
I don’t think that would not be hard to do.



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[AmmoMike83]

- @Hatch: Based on the emails I got from printers there is definetly a need for both, base down and nose down. Use that plug: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4648736
- SWC/WC is nearly impossible, due to the lack of weight difference between base and nose.
- I am reloading and hunting since summer 2017, so I definetly need help. That's why I decided to make the project public and I really appreciate the discussions here
- @jmorris: I really like your design an already adapted it to mount on the droptube and for spring usage. The only problem with that gravity flipper is, you will need a certain height to make it work properly and reliable.

[AmmoMike83]

@jmorris: that's a first sketch. What do you think? (it's 100mm in height)
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[6bg6ga]

Watch the video I posted in #21. Bullets don’t come out of a collator like water out of a faucet. The spacing on the wheel forces them to drop out one at a time. Same thing keeps them from locking up dropping out into a tube, one at a time.

I agree. There is enough spacing between bullets that your "Y" design will work fine.

[6bg6ga]

- @Hatch: Based on the emails I got from printers there is definetly a need for both, base down and nose down. Use that plug: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4648736
- SWC/WC is nearly impossible, due to the lack of weight difference between base and nose.
- I am reloading and hunting since summer 2017, so I definetly need help. That's why I decided to make the project public and I really appreciate the discussions here
- @jmorris: I really like your design an already adapted it to mount on the droptube and for spring usage. The only problem with that gravity flipper is, you will need a certain height to make it work properly and reliable.

Welcome to the forum.

I have been playing with the collator with a piece of tape covering the exit hole. I was off yesterday and played with the collator trying to get my 124gr SWC 9mm bullets to drop consistantly without a lot of success. I realize it may be possible to do it but my patience is almost at an end and I need a solution like the jmorris "Y" flipper just to make the problem go away. I purchased the printed collator with the idea it would drop nose down or base down. I won't have hurt feelings if I have to add another piece to the mix. Unfortunately I do not own a 3D printer yet at least.

[AmmoMike83]

Welcome to the forum.

I have been playing with the collator with a piece of tape covering the exit hole. I was off yesterday and played with the collator trying to get my 124gr SWC 9mm bullets to drop consistantly without a lot of success. I realize it may be possible to do it but my patience is almost at an end and I need a solution like the jmorris "Y" flipper just to make the problem go away. I purchased the printed collator with the idea it would drop nose down or base down. I won't have hurt feelings if I have to add another piece to the mix. Unfortunately I do not own a 3D printer yet at least.

First of all thank you.
To determine the problem, could you please send me video of the "working" bullet feeder? SWC is tricky, but should work. FWC is not possible.


Q: Will I be able to load full wadcutters with this unit?

A: Unfortunately, the system will not function properly with full wadcutters. Full wadcutters are the same diameter on each end, and because of this, the dropper unit cannot dispense individual bullets. Semi-wadcutters however, will work properly in the unit.
http://www.mrbulletfeeder.com/other/

[6bg6ga]

I heard the problem was it wouldn’t work with EVERY bullet. SWC designs are harder.

I really think this 3D printed one needs to made nose down only
It could be sold without restriction as MBF is base down.
All it would take is the standard drop hole isn’t printed.
I don’t think that would not be hard to do.



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Unfortunately due to the fact I didn't have my coffee yet I had to read your post several times before it soaked in. I understand now that your saying the collator needs to be made to be a nose down only unit and that way it can be sold without fear of legal ramifications. Am I correct? There would be enough differences between it and the high priced MBF unit that people wouldn't have to think very long before they pulled the trigger and purchased the AmmoMike83 design.

[6bg6ga]

PM sent

Due to my old age I'll have to get my grandaughter to show me how to make a video and send it.

[HATCH]

Mike, keep in mind Joe isn’t using the latest version of the nose down slide.
I am gonna print him out this weekend


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[HATCH]

Mike, keep in mind Joe isn’t using the latest version of the nose down slide.
I am gonna print him out this weekend


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[jmorris]

@jmorris: that's a first sketch. What do you think? (it's 100mm in height)



That’s pretty much it. I made the cover plate out of clear plastic so I could see what was going on. Would have made it easier to see what I might need to change, if it hadn’t worked.

FWIW I have a video Rick (Mrbulletfeeder) send me of his nose down conversion of his old collator. If anyone is interested I could repost it (photobucket has made the one I uploaded useless).

[Mark2215]

I also do not think WC can be made to work reliably. The flat base that must ride on the edge of the nose down hole to prevent base first drops is the same size as the flat base on the nose of the bullet, no way for the collator to reliably account for the difference. I have adjusted my MBF nose down adapter to almost work but it would miss every so often and drop a base down. SWC could be made to work if there were two ridges, one that would let the bases ride past the hole and another that would push the nose of the swc into the hole. Once I get the printer here I plan on working on the design of the adapter. Oh yeah, I'll have to figure out how to use the cad software, lol.

[HATCH]

FWIW I have a video Rick (Mrbulletfeeder) send me of his nose down conversion of his old collator. If anyone is interested I could repost it (photobucket has made the one I uploaded useless).

I have that video on my YouTube channel already.

[jmorris]

I also do not think WC can be made to work reliably. The flat base that must ride on the edge of the nose down hole to prevent base first drops is the same size as the flat base on the nose of the bullet, no way for the collator to reliably account for the difference.

I don’t think it matters much what end is up on a wadcutter, if there is no difference, it makes no difference.

If your running a hollow base wadcutter, you would have to come up with a unique solution that wouldn’t be much use for anything else.

[jmorris]

I have that video on my YouTube channel already.

Mind posting it here?

[HATCH]

I can’t do it right now but feel free. It’s public and on my Channel. Think the title is something to look at


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[Mark2215]

https://youtu.be/YkXjCz8DSWs

[AmmoMike83]

That's what we are trying to achieve. Maybe I should publish a solid turning plate, everyone can dremel down by himself :D

[AmmoMike83]

Uploaded. Have fun with the milling machine :D

[AmmoMike83]

We are good to go!!!!!!!!
https://youtu.be/9iTjlmzJLz0

used the ATP V2 version and grinded the sliding trail in a slight 45 ° angle with a file.

[6bg6ga]

Difference in the motors

The MBF is a beefier motor than the less expensive motor available on ebay.

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Having said the MBF is a beefier motor in my opinion either should work well. I checked my stash and found that I had ordered a cheap motor off ebay a few years back. Remember when purchasing your motor to get something around 10 RPM.

Yes, one can use a speed control with the motor but when properly tweeked you may not need the speed control.

[6bg6ga]

We are good to go!!!!!!!!
https://youtu.be/9iTjlmzJLz0

used the ATP V2 version and grinded the sliding trail in a slight 45 ° angle with a file.

I noticed that your collator wheel has a tighter center hole and pin slot than my collator wheel does. Is your collator wheel printed from a different material and that material usage results in better detail?

[6bg6ga]

We are good to go!!!!!!!!
https://youtu.be/9iTjlmzJLz0

used the ATP V2 version and grinded the sliding trail in a slight 45 ° angle with a file.

Could you show where to file? I assume one needs to leave the dremel in the drawer and pull out a pattern file or something along this line.

[Redwoode]

A nice closeup picture of the plate would be helpful. I sure don't want to botch it up.

[HATCH]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/484e2de23747ab503dbe77f54b5f1ed8.jpg

Base on the video the blue highlight shows the portion of the turn ramp he is talking about.
It gets printed as a square edge.
You need to file the square off and make it a beveled edge.

Before you do that , let’s wait on mike to respond.
I can always print you another piece if you mess up so no worries

[jmorris]

For motors I have used lots of the Dayton 2L007, 2L009 and others in the series, when I need small but good gear motors that seem to last forever.

Zoro has the best prices on them.

[AmmoMike83]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/02b627a17f68bb9e198b3788f91d8e15.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/3489681e10c4f667657a190ac65477fd.jpg


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[6bg6ga]

The picture does it and no one can make a mistake now.

[6bg6ga]

For motors I have used lots of the Dayton 2L007, 2L009 and others in the series, when I need small but good gear motors that seem to last forever.

Zoro has the best prices on them.

Dayton makes probably the best motors on the market. I've never suffered a failure with one of them.

[6bg6ga]

Mike

Is your material something special, plastic, or carbon fiber?

[AmmoMike83]

Its normal PLA. Nothing special.


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[Recordingwhiz]

Hello there, New forum member here. I can verify that the MBF motor does not require speed control when utilized with a 12v power supply. there is a very easy way to do the optical sensor switch with parts from Amazon which beats trying to adjust a leaf switch not to mention an LED to provide the light also works as a power ON indicator. I am working right now on a parts list and instructions on how to use the 3D bullet feeder with a Lee Loadmaster and the Lee bullet feeder for pistol rounds.

Cheers

[AmmoMike83]

Hello there, New forum member here. I can verify that the MBF motor does not require speed control when utilized with a 12v power supply. there is a very easy way to do the optical sensor switch with parts from Amazon which beats trying to adjust a leaf switch not to mention an LED to provide the light also works as a power ON indicator. I am working right now on a parts list and instructions on how to use the 3D bullet feeder with a Lee Loadmaster and the Lee bullet feeder for pistol rounds.

Cheers

It's correct. The MBF does not need a speed control unit. But for testing and setting the thing up correctly, it's very useful to have either a speedcontroller or (for testing) a power supply with variable Voltage output.

[HATCH]

Printing a v2 nose down plate. 1.5 layer 100% fill so I can file on it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/a02f6ed1331df528130e4cc699fcca08.jpg

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[HATCH]

Of course one of my kids hit the printer and I didn’t know it. This print is trashed. Will recalibrate the bed and reprint it tonight.


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[Tazza]

Hatch - Bugger..... Hopefully you caught it soon enough to not waste too much time or materials.

That plate is pretty much the exact same design i came up with for my home made one. I just have more tweaking to do to get the grooves in the right places. The main issue i am having is projectiles getting stuck in the exit hole, it may be a little smaller than it should be. Being nose down, i feel it could be bigger without issues. I am using a 5 rpm motor off fleabay with 2 universal joints so alignment can be a little off and it still works, but this also adds some slop. With the motor off, you can rotate the wheel a good 1/2" looking from the outside of the wheel.

Hopefully given some time and tinkering, i'll get it going as it should. If not, i may be putting my paw up for a 3d printed unit that i know will work better than what i have cobbled together.

[MaryB]

Good source for DC gear motors and all kinds of other mechanical bits and pieces http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/DC-Gearmotors/DC-Gearmotors/

[6bg6ga]

Good source for DC gear motors and all kinds of other mechanical bits and pieces http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/DC-Gearmotors/DC-Gearmotors/

Only one there that is usable and its way over priced. The collator motors we are using are going to fall along two bolt patterns that the collator files support.

[Tazza]

The way i figure it, if it's not being used commercially, you can live with the possible early failure of cheap parts. Just keep a spare on hand, as they are so cheap for "just in case".

[Mark2215]

The printer is working away. Already made a few of the smaller parts, working on the plate right now. So slow!
215142

[HATCH]

The printer is working away. Already made a few of the smaller parts, working on the plate right now. So slow!
215142

You need to make sure you have the latest files.


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[Mark2215]

I check for updates before I start any print. I almost missed the update to the bullet plate.

[6bg6ga]

Since starting this thread I have learned a lot about fill, percentage of fill the the thickness of the layers and it is quite interesting. It has taught me so far that what may look good may also hold flaws. There have been some amazing break thrus this week in the progress of the collator. The plates have been addressed and I have learned that very slight differences in the plates are and can be the difference between the unit working correctly and me getting upset and vowing I would dump the collator in the garbage.

So far my particular unit has received some help via some updated plates with a newer plate on the way from what I understand. It would seem that with the newest plate and some tighter fitting bullet collator wheels I will be able to obtain my goal of 100% operational capability running nose down.
It was my goal to have a collator that would run base down to my Dillon 650 and nose down to my Star and Magma bullet sizers. This is just one step closer to obtaining my goal of automation in my bullet casting, sizing, and loading operations.

Charles, (Hatch) has been instrumental in keeping this thread on track and as a source of valuable information. Its not often that you find someone so intent on getting a viable working project going here on Cast Boolits. Personally speaking he has kept me from walking to the garbage bin with the collator and simply dumping it. He tells me its a work in progress have some faith and patience. Normally I wouldn't have listened but Charles has also purchased a 3D printer and has dove in head first because of his belief in the technology and current projects. So, it looks like I'm in it till the end and will keep volunteering information that might help things to progress a little better.

My hat is off to ammoMike83 the originator of this particular project and whos dedication is not stopped or slowed dispite being roughly 1/2 a world away.

Lets keep this thread running and hopefully the spirit of DIY will have all of us wishing to have an affordable collator to the point of being able to obtain something here on the Cast Boolits forum with a price point that is affordable and functional.

[AmmoMike83]

@6bg6ga Thank you for these words! Don't give up. If you can see in several videos now its working, but it's a project for advanced 3D printers. Here is a new update I came up with (thanks to General Hatch for some helpful hints !)
215197
215198
215199

For those who want to use proximity sensors. I don't understand why to use them, because light barrier works fine withouts any adjustment, if you change caliber.

If there are any ideas let me know.

Mike

[jmorris]

I am not sure what the testing and tuning that’s needed is but if it takes 17 hrs to print out the collator, what about just printing out the bottom part where the work is done and fastening sides to it to hold your bullets?

I guess I am not seeing the problems but never messed with 3D printing except back in the ‘90s with machines that would wax modle.

[Redwoode]

The Crimson bullet collator had a base that sides cut from a sheet material screwed into.

[AmmoMike83]

I am not sure what the testing and tuning that’s needed is but if it takes 17 hrs to print out the collator, what about just printing out the bottom part where the work is done and fastening sides to it to hold your bullets?

I guess I am not seeing the problems but never messed with 3D printing except back in the ‘90s with machines that would wax modle.

If you have a machine for it, let her do the work. You have a .45 ACP sorter. Why not sorting them by hand? Don't get me wrong, I really love your machines, but I think that discussion about printing the wall or not, is stupid. The wall needs 5h the base 22h to print, btw.

[jmorris]

I agree to let the equipment do the work for you, maybe it’s me not understanding the problem that is occurring.

If it takes 5 hours to print the wall, make two versions of the base to test and you just saved 10 hours of manufacturing. For just R&D cardboard and duct tape could be the wall. I may just be impatient, carry on with the neat project.

[HATCH]

The base piece works fine.
The adjustments are being made on the slider.
The slider takes a couple hrs to print which isn't that bad.
It could be printed in a hr with less fill and thicker layer.


Joe, I think this product is something that is needed.
It is also something that ANYONE can make with a $200 investment
And the cool part is your not spending $200 just to make this one item.
There are TONS of items that you can print up.

I printed out a bookmark for my daughter this morning. Took 45 mins. She was HAPPY as can be.
My son has something he wants printed but I told him he had to wait because it would tie the printer up for a full day (24hrs)

[Handloader109]

$200? What machine do you have Charles that is only $200? I've been tempted before, but have held out due to the initial cost of close to $1000.

[AmmoMike83]

I agree to let the equipment do the work for you, maybe it’s me not understanding the problem that is occurring.

If it takes 5 hours to print the wall, make two versions of the base to test and you just saved 10 hours of manufacturing. For just R&D cardboard and duct tape could be the wall. I may just be impatient, carry on with the neat project.

If I read through my emails and comments, I think it's better to have walls ;)

[AmmoMike83]

$200? What machine do you have Charles that is only $200? I've been tempted before, but have held out due to the initial cost of close to $1000.

Anet A8.

[HATCH]

You can buy the Anet A8 for about $160 off of eBay.
I recommend that you purchase a mosfet which costs about $10 also.
This basically is a SSR that will allow you to take the high current for the bed and put it remotely.

It took me 10hrs to assemble it. If I had to build it again it would be 2/3 that long.

There are some upgrade parts that you can print once your machine is together.
If you get a A8, I can print them so you can install them when you assemble the machine.

Also the A8 doesn’t have a on/off switch. The cord plugs into the wall.
Which is almost fine as your gonna keep it printing 24/7 once you see what it can print.
I installed a switch on mine. Took five minutes.

It comes with a little bit of filament but not enough print the sample code they tell you to print to test the printer out.

[Handloader109]

Really....... I didn't realize that they really were that cheap. Might have to spring for one. I've about a dozen projects that are small and I've wanted to try. I've a makerspace that is down in Fayetteville, but they cater mainly to students and I don't think running long items works for them. (yeah, nothing is 5 minutes though).

[Mark2215]

I'm using a monoprice maker select plus. They are 275 new. I'll probably buy this one off my friend, he upgraded so doesn't use it much anymore.

My first bullet plate was a failure and I know why. The plate ended up warping and not being flat. The problem is the plate on the printer is not perfectly flat. I leveled it in the corners but then the middle hits, if I level closer to the middle the edges are further down which caused the print to not adhere. I'll be putting a piece of glass on it before trying again.

I'm almost done all the small parts.

[Redwoode]

Happen to know what he upgraded to? Just curious.

[jmorris]

You can buy the Anet A8 for about $160 off of eBay.
I recommend that you purchase a mosfet which costs about $10 also.
This basically is a SSR that will allow you to take the high current for the bed and put it remotely.

It took me 10hrs to assemble it. If I had to build it again it would be 2/3 that long.

There are some upgrade parts that you can print once your machine is together.
If you get a A8, I can print them so you can install them when you assemble the machine.

Also the A8 doesn’t have a on/off switch. The cord plugs into the wall.
Which is almost fine as your gonna keep it printing 24/7 once you see what it can print.
I installed a switch on mine. Took five minutes.

It comes with a little bit of filament but not enough print the sample code they tell you to print to test the printer out.


Is this the one you are using?

THIS IS THE ONE I AM USING - ANET A8 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anet-A8-3D-Printer-i3-DIY-Kit-Multiple-Filament-Types-Large-Printing/122604519208?hash=item1c8bcc7f28:g:93oAAOSwxg9Zbgt C)

[6bg6ga]

I agree to let the equipment do the work for you, maybe it’s me not understanding the problem that is occurring.

If it takes 5 hours to print the wall, make two versions of the base to test and you just saved 10 hours of manufacturing. For just R&D cardboard and duct tape could be the wall. I may just be impatient, carry on with the neat project.

I believe I see your point. Your looking (my opinion here) at making the unit a little more simple and probably looking at say Kidex as a wall material to attach to the base like another unit that tried to go into production and was stopped cold by the MBF lawyers.

This unit is different than the MBF design and if all the bugs can be worked out in my opinion it will be superior and at a better price point.
My unit hasn't received the newest designed plate that will transform it to 100% nose down operation. I am hopeful that I will get it this week and possible some better fitting bullet collator wheels. My current wheels raise up allowing bullets to get underneath it starting a jam and then an all out stopage.

[Recordingwhiz]

I am working on a design change to the collator wheel that will prevent it from allowing it to lift and allow a bullet to get underneath, as I am also experiencing this as well, hope to have it printed and tested sometime this week.

[HATCH]

There is a newer design that has a tighter shaft area.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180227/33cf7264c55ac2b17b36b9687e3ce0f4.jpg
It was released the past couple weeks.



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[6bg6ga]

The base piece works fine.
The adjustments are being made on the slider.
The slider takes a couple hrs to print which isn't that bad.
It could be printed in a hr with less fill and thicker layer.


Joe, I think this product is something that is needed.
It is also something that ANYONE can make with a $200 investment
And the cool part is your not spending $200 just to make this one item.
There are TONS of items that you can print up.

I printed out a bookmark for my daughter this morning. Took 45 mins. She was HAPPY as can be.
My son has something he wants printed but I told him he had to wait because it would tie the printer up for a full day (24hrs)

Charles,

Your absolutely correct. The product is needed and is a viable one and a product that is within reach of just about anyone. I'm tight with my money since I am counting days before I retire and money becomes tighter than it has been before. I believe 100% in this DIY project as its one just about every loader can use especially if they have a press capable of using it or if they happen to own a Star or Magma or multiple units for sizing operation. I happen to have a turret bullet feeder that was machined special before MBF started to market a product like it. Having a collator to run base up nose down to feed the bullet tube on Star or magma would be out of this world and to be blunt a heck of a lot cheaper than shelling out around $1300-1500- for a collator that was designed specifically for the star/magma.

[6bg6ga]

There is a newer design that has a tighter shaft area.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180227/33cf7264c55ac2b17b36b9687e3ce0f4.jpg
It was released the past couple weeks.



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That bullet wheel would solve all of my problems. The motor shaft hole looks so tight that I doubt that it would be possible that it would exhibit the same behavier that the looser collator wheels do.

[AmmoMike83]

I am working on a design change to the collator wheel that will prevent it from allowing it to lift and allow a bullet to get underneath, as I am also experiencing this as well, hope to have it printed and tested sometime this week.

lifting the collator plate up prevents the gears of the motor to crack.

[6bg6ga]

lifting the collator plate up prevents the gears of the motor to crack.

I suppose I should probably take my gear box apart and see if the gears have damaged. Mine raised the plate and clogged with bullets and stalled but not before make a loud report.

[HATCH]

I am printing something for my son that will take until this afternoon.
After that I will print a 9mm plate. Joe if you don't get a updated one, just let me know and i will send you it.

CHARLES

[AmmoMike83]

I am printing something for my son that will take until this afternoon.
After that I will print a 9mm plate. Joe if you don't get a updated one, just let me know and i will send you it.

CHARLES

what's missing?

[HATCH]

Mike, Joe has the earlier plate with the 10mm center section. Not the latest with the smaller 8mm center section.
Plus the newer ones are also 13mm thick

[6bg6ga]

Darn... The things that one could make and to think my mind was fixed only on collators and bullet stackers. :shock:

[6bg6ga]

Mike, Joe has the earlier plate with the 10mm center section. Not the latest with the smaller 8mm center section.
Plus the newer ones are also 13mm thick

I sent an email out and hopefully I will get a reply by email. Going to be in the sticks again today with no cell after I leave the shop.

[Mark2215]

I got a piece of glass this morning, finally I can properly level the bed. I can also print without a raft. Before this the initial layer would always get screwed up, now it prints perfectly right away. I'm going to retry the bullet plate before starting on the base.

[AmmoMike83]

I did an update on the base plate and collators. Haha... just kidding ... :D blood pressure ok, tony? ;)


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[6bg6ga]

I am one step closer today after receiving what I believe to be the latest of the adjustable plates. Like Charles said its a work in progress and its still a heck of a lot cheaper than buying an expensive collator. Thanks Tony.

[AmmoMike83]

I am one step closer today after receiving what I believe to be the latest of the adjustable plates. Like Charles said its a work in progress and its still a heck of a lot cheaper than buying an expensive collator. Thanks Tony.

I am sorry to disappoint you :)
Here is the new ATP split v3:
215379
215380

Download: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4687047

[6bg6ga]

Maybe Tony will send out the latest version with the new bullet collator plates:bigsmyl2:

Split plates to allow more precise adjustment?

[AmmoMike83]

Maybe Tony will send out the latest version with the new bullet collator plates:bigsmyl2:

Split plates to allow more precise adjustment?

The v2 works with 9mm (as seen in my video). So, don't worry :) Other bullets (boolits), I don't know.
The v3 allows the adjustment of the drop slide and the flip slide independently.

[Tazza]

I like the new update with the adjustable plates. This thread keeps me wanting to get a 3d printer, wonder how i'd go with being able to get one without the wife seeing it?

The small kits i have seen on fleabay are about $230 aud

[6bg6ga]

Tony has mentioned to me that the new plates will have to be drilled out to obtain the correct hole size for the motor shaft. Care must be exercised so that the hole isn't drilled larger than it needs to be and thus another junk plate as a result of the over sized hole. I believe 21/64's was mentioned by Charles as the correct size of the drilled center motor shaft hole.

[AmmoMike83]

Tony has mentioned to me that the new plates will have to be drilled out to obtain the correct hole size for the motor shaft. Care must be exercised so that the hole isn't drilled larger than it needs to be and thus another junk plate as a result of the over sized hole. I believe 21/64's was mentioned by Charles as the correct size of the drilled center motor shaft hole.

My shaft has 8mm, so 21/64's should work fine.

[6bg6ga]

I would suggest that one uses a drill press if possible with the collator wheel clamped down and something used as a lube. Moderate to low speed probably so that you don't burn the plastic would be a smart move also.

[6bg6ga]

My shaft has 8mm, so 21/64's should work fine.

Have you tried the cheaper 370 motor that is available from ebay or Amazon? I was thinking that maybe a template so one could drill the MBF base might be something useful and it would allow one to use a different motor if they needed to. Possibly a center piece to go over the 370's motor shaft too so that the same collator wheel could be used on both with a tight fit.

The reason I mentioned this is that you can buy (3) 370 motors for the cost of one MBF motor.

[AmmoMike83]

Have you tried the cheaper 370 motor that is available from ebay or Amazon? I was thinking that maybe a template so one could drill the MBF base might be something useful and it would allow one to use a different motor if they needed to. Possibly a center piece to go over the 370's motor shaft too so that the same collator wheel could be used on both with a tight fit.

The reason I mentioned this is that you can buy (3) 370 motors for the cost of one MBF motor.

honestly, the 370 motor is a mess. The gears break very quickly. The second thing is, that a PRINTED center piece for the shaft isn't durable. I tested that with no success. It broke, several times. The STL file is just a assistance to make a piece out of brass on a lathe.

[6bg6ga]

honestly, the 370 motor is a mess. The gears break very quickly. The second thing is, that a PRINTED center piece for the shaft isn't durable. I tested that with no success. It broke, several times. The STL file is just a assistance to make a piece out of brass on a lathe.

That is good to know. I have to try mine since I have had it for a few years. If I can get some mill and lathe time at my friends I will make a template with a center piece so I can drill my collator to try the 370 motor.

[AmmoMike83]

That is good to know. I have to try mine since I have had it for a few years. If I can get some mill and lathe time at my friends I will make a template with a center piece so I can drill my collator to try the 370 motor.

Save that time and money and buy a MBF motor.

[HATCH]

Joe, I guess your glad now you followed my lead. Ha


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[6bg6ga]

Ya but... I already have one. The old timer in me needs to try it just cause I have it. Its kinda like playing with tube audio. I may have an idea how something will sound but I have to hear it for myself.

[6bg6ga]

Joe, I guess your glad now you followed my lead. Ha


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Charles, I have to listen to you simply because you are like jmorris and can make something from nothing.

Something tells me I'm going to be super happy when I get the new collator wheels and plates. I still have to try the 370 motor simply because its there looking at me taunting me saying try me. Actually I have a circuit in mind that may allow one to use it and not worry about breaking the gears and I need to try it. I think my torque sensing circuit may allow the motor to be of some use after all.

[HATCH]

I am definitely not a JMorris.
He really can make something from nothing.
I need a little bit of something then I can make it into something great.

I tried to change filament and it got stuck in the tube (will explain later). Long story short had to order a $1 part and get the printer working again.

Hope to make the v3 plates today but I have to make something for JMorris. Well for the printer he ordered.

[6bg6ga]

I am definitely not a JMorris.
He really can make something from nothing.
I need a little bit of something then I can make it into something great.

I tried to change filament and it got stuck in the tube (will explain later). Long story short had to order a $1 part and get the printer working again.

Hope to make the v3 plates today but I have to make something for JMorris. Well for the printer he ordered.

Your a close 2nd then in my book.

[AmmoMike83]

If someone has an idea for a friction clutch or current limiter, working with the bullet feeder, please let me know.

[Tazza]

Jmorris had a friction limiter idea that he left a joint loose enough to work, but slip when it stalls.

I had the thought of a current limiting fuse or circuit breaker too. It senses the power being used and when it spikes it shuts off, like a VFD has.

[Mxrick55555]

The MBF power supply comes with a protection built in this is from their web site “It includes a power surge protection, preventing more than 800mA from being supplied, even if the motor stalls. This prevents damage to the motor and the power supply, and eliminates the need for a fuse.Weight: 0.240Kg
Manufacturer: Double-Alpha Academy”

https://www.doublealpha.biz/mr-bulletfeeder-power-supply

[Tazza]

That's an easier way of doing it, get a current limiting power supply. The only issue is that if it was to stall, it would eventually burn the motor up, but mostly you are there and will see/hear it stall then clear the blockage. The price on the MBF power supply seems pretty good to me.

[MaryB]

Lot of boards like this on ebay to limit current and turn off https://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-0-30V-2mA-3A-Adjustable-DC-Protection-Limiting-Current-Circuit-Short/122804925196?hash=item1c97be730c:g:wmQAAOSwjodaCAn C

[jmorris]

I have used split set collars as clutches but from the original KISS collators to the current MBF, all have been a roll pin, no clutch.

[6bg6ga]

Post #165 and 166 will both work. Thanks Mary. I couldn't build one as cheap as that ebay link. That is what I had in mind for mine.

The MBF power supply with limiting is probably the best solution.

[AmmoMike83]

Post #165 and 166 will both work. Thanks Mary. I couldn't build one as cheap as that ebay link. That is what I had in mind for mine.

The MBF power supply with limiting is probably the best solution.

But if you want to use light barrier or proximity sensor you will need another power supply, cause the MBF motor needs 0.7 Amps. If the MBF power supply shuts down @0.8, there is no room for something else, or am I wrong?

[6bg6ga]

But if you want to use light barrier or proximity sensor you will need another power supply, cause the MBF motor needs 0.7 Amps. If the MBF power supply shuts down @0.8, there is no room for something else, or am I wrong?

Actually I think there is room enough on the power supply. I haven't checked the current requirements on the different types of sensors one could incorporate into the design but there is 100mA left. I think it would be really easy to use a photo sensor or proximity and still have some head room. Worst case you could run the control off a small battery pack that would last for months. One could always use a simple micro switch if you had to.

Proximity switch generally 10mA current draw.

[6bg6ga]

If it were me I would use an independent power supply since I like LED's and relays and generally anything I can incorporate to confuse the hell out of someone.:bigsmyl2: I'm lucky enough to have a box full of wall wart power supplies.

[jmorris]

If the MBF power supply shuts down @0.8, there is no room for something else, or am I wrong?

Not to mention the MBF powersupply is adjustable and you might have it set so it cannot power some other device.

Like how does your light sensor act when connected to a PWM speed controller? Might be why they use the simple limit switch vs a sensor with more electronics involved.

[Mark2215]

I've been wondering why you guys want to add more complexity to the design. A simple switch works perfect for the original design, why add more power supplies and circuits to do the same thing? I'm trying to modify the tube to fit an off the shelf switch from Amazon since the original designed switch is no longer available.

[AmmoMike83]

I've been wondering why you guys want to add more complexity to the design. A simple switch works perfect for the original design, why add more power supplies and circuits to do the same thing? I'm trying to modify the tube to fit an off the shelf switch from Amazon since the original designed switch is no longer available.

We are talking about that, after you broke 3 or 4 of that switches :) The standard switch isnt usable for lighter bullets like 9mm 115 grs. You have to open the switch and modify the spring. I suggest to buy a 10th pack of it :D

[jmorris]

The ones I use already have light springs in them, they even work with 35 grain .224 bullets.

I just cut a slot in the tube and use a wrap around style mount. Knock on wood but I have never had to replace one yet but I also haven’t tried to break into one and change the design either.

[Mark2215]

Do you have a link for the switch you use?

[jmorris]

The Cherry E22-85HX is the switch I use.

Edit: mouser doesn’t have them in stock but these folks do.

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/olcmobile/zf-electronics-corp-e2285hx.html?p=11073738

It has a maximum operating force of 2 grams, almost 31 grains.

https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/833/E21_Series-1275431.pdf

[HATCH]

The standard switch isnt usable for lighter bullets like 9mm 115 grs.

I don't understand as they use the same type switches on case collators and empty cases weigh less then a 9mm bullet

[Mark2215]

The one used for the MBF isn't any easier to switch, it just has a very long lever.

[AmmoMike83]

I've been wondering why you guys want to add more complexity to the design. A simple switch works perfect for the original design, why add more power supplies and circuits to do the same thing? I'm trying to modify the tube to fit an off the shelf switch from Amazon since the original designed switch is no longer available.

215542
215543

want? :)

[Mark2215]

Please and thank you!

[AmmoMike83]

Please and thank you!

Uploaded on thingiverse. Have fun! (and don't forget to tip ;))

[AmmoMike83]

I don't understand as they use the same type switches on case collators and empty cases weigh less then a 9mm bullet

True. But there are a lot of "standard" switches on ebay and amazon that won't work. The first product on Amazon if you type "micro switch" for example. The "Hartmann MBF5B", another example.

[HATCH]

I have some that I use with the Master Caster Panel.
You can move the arm so it provides more leverage.


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[Recordingwhiz]

The optical circuit and a 12v LED works way smoother and there is no mechanical anything to mess with just like the Video I made. less than $15 and be done with it no adjustment except a little trim pot.

[AmmoMike83]

The optical circuit and a 12v LED works way smoother and there is no mechanical anything to mess with just like the Video I made. less than $15 and be done with it no adjustment except a little trim pot.

I concur! Thank you for support :)

[6bg6ga]

The optical circuit and a 12v LED works way smoother and there is no mechanical anything to mess with just like the Video I made. less than $15 and be done with it no adjustment except a little trim pot.

There are a lot of ways to do this. It all depends on what trips your trigger

[Recordingwhiz]

Of course, I just went with the system I knew would be simple, with no mechanical parts so to say. nothing to jam or break, but there are electronics involved so...

but you are correct, that is the beauty of DIY, you can attack any thing in any way that you desire or find to be better, that is how this project is evolving, and as my video shows, has provided a complete working system.

Cheers

[MaryB]

Extending the lever length will increase the force applied by a lighter load. I have done it by soldering an extension on some, used JB weld on another... trick we used at the casino to keep old slot machines with obsolete parts going!



The ones I use already have light springs in them, they even work with 35 grain .224 bullets.

I just cut a slot in the tube and use a wrap around style mount. Knock on wood but I have never had to replace one yet but I also haven’t tried to break into one and change the design either.

[Mark2215]

I have one day left printing the base plate. Hopefully I'll be assembling tomorrow. I haven't seen a list of hardware needed to assemble everything. Does anyone have one? If not, I'll keep track as I find out what fits and post it here.

Edit: Of course, right after I post this I see the instructional pdf Mike created. Thanks!!

[6bg6ga]

I'm going to use a refrigeration spring tool that is used to bend copper tubing from the hardware store for around $6.00 to deliver the bullets from the collator to the bullet tube on my Dillon 650 press. The stand I will have to fabricate from scratch since I do not have a Dillon case collator. I'm going to either use a simple micro-switch to turn the collator on or off or make up a optical sensor to do it. The power supply so far is a simple wall wart without any current sensing.

I wish someone had a stand that was 3D printed that someone could screw to the bench and telescope to the height needed.

[AmmoMike83]

I have one day left printing the base plate. Hopefully I'll be assembling tomorrow. I haven't seen a list of hardware needed to assemble everything. Does anyone have one? If not, I'll keep track as I find out what fits and post it here.

Edit: Of course, right after I post this I see the instructional pdf Mike created. Thanks!!

It's from Gerry (Recordingwhiz). Many thanks! :)

[6bg6ga]

where is the info PDF?

[HATCH]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314

It also covers how to hook it up to a LEE press

[Papercidal]

215714
I'm going to use a refrigeration spring tool that is used to bend copper tubing from the hardware store for around $6.00 to deliver the bullets from the collator to the bullet tube on my Dillon 650 press. The stand I will have to fabricate from scratch since I do not have a Dillon case collator.

I wish someone had a stand that was 3D printed that someone could screw to the bench and telescope to the height needed.

I found that 2 galvanized street elbows, 2 floor flanges, and a nipple the correct length works far better than hanging the collator off of the case feeder. It also allows for very fine angle adjustments on two axis which helps a lot with getting reliable functionality.

[HATCH]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/3729f24e9bf7f466d94db9fc38cd73e4.jpg

38 hrs to go. LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AmmoMike83]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/3729f24e9bf7f466d94db9fc38cd73e4.jpg

38 hrs to go. LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's worth to wait, Charles! :)

did a little shock test btw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pHv6nFNttE

[Mark2215]

I'm winning! :razz:
215719

[AmmoMike83]

I'm winning! :razz:
215719

Not with this color. Black matters :)
I am proud to see so many collators! Thank you, guys!

[6bg6ga]

Not with this color. Black matters :)
I am proud to see so many collators! Thank you, guys!

No, thank you Mike

[6bg6ga]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/3729f24e9bf7f466d94db9fc38cd73e4.jpg

38 hrs to go. LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great!

[HATCH]

its on a SD card. No battery backup cause if he lose power here, its gonna be for longer then the amount of time the battery backup would work.
We don't get blimps in power, if it goes out then someone hit a pole or a tree fell on the power lines

[Mark2215]

Mine is hooked to a UPS and run by octopi.

[HATCH]

Guess I will just wing it


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[Recordingwhiz]

OctoPi is deff worth the investment, I run my Anet A8 on it and it just saves hassle from the card swapping and it lets me monitor the printer even if Im not in the room

[AmmoMike83]

Does anyone know, who owns this site? :cry:

https://reloadingmounts.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fbullet-feeder-3d-printed-parts-only&page=2

[6bg6ga]

Does anyone know, who owns this site? :cry:

https://reloadingmounts.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fbullet-feeder-3d-printed-parts-only&page=2

You would have thought they could have at least asked permission to make them. After all its your property your design and they are making it for profit. A law suit?

I think they owe you some type of fee or you could sell them a license to use your files.

[6bg6ga]

Mine is hooked to a UPS and run by octopi.

As Hatch pointed out to me the bed is run off 12 volts and its pulling some amps. It can be run say off of some car batterys or a hefty 12 volt supply. I happen to have a 12VAC 30 apm supply that I can rectify and regulate when my time comes to purchase a 3D printer. The head end the control could be backed up by a UPS.

[6bg6ga]

Looks great!

What does it look like now?

[6bg6ga]

Do you belong to that creative commons site??

[HATCH]

The designer and license holder (AmmoMike83) as contacted me and has invoked his NON-COMMERCIAL USE license and copyright.
This design is not going to be sold on Cast Boolits.
He said to feel free to print them for your own PERSONAL use and enjoyment but not for profit.

[Mark2215]

My plate finished this morning. First problem I ran into is the holes for the MBF motor are not big enough for washers or nuts. Time to break out the drill and hope I don't damage it. :shock: Has anyone else used this with the MBF motor and found a better way?

[Handloader109]

Does anyone know, who owns this site? :cry:

https://reloadingmounts.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fbullet-feeder-3d-printed-parts-only&page=2

Here is the link to Godaddy to file an infringement against them.
At least give them some feedback they can't sell.
https://supportcenter.godaddy.com/AbuseReport

Oh, and thanks for putting up for personal use! I hope to make one soon!

[AmmoMike83]

My plate finished this morning. First problem I ran into is the holes for the MBF motor are not big enough for washers or nuts. Time to break out the drill and hope I don't damage it. :shock: Has anyone else used this with the MBF motor and found a better way?

The easiest way is to replace the MBF “screws” by simple head screws!!


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[AmmoMike83]

Here is the link to Godaddy to file an infringement against them.
At least give them some feedback they can't sell.
https://supportcenter.godaddy.com/AbuseReport

Oh, and thanks for putting up for personal use! I hope to make one soon!

Thank you for that hint! Will try that. It was always open for personal use, but not for making money with it without asking me ;)


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[Handloader109]

I went through most of his stuff and it is mainly just attribute license, and free to commercially sell. He probably just missed it, but no telling:)

[AmmoMike83]

I went through most of his stuff and it is mainly just attribute license, and free to commercially sell. He probably just missed it, but no telling:)

He also sells my Hornady case feeder tip tube, but I don’t care about that. That was a 5 minute project. The bulletfeeder was a year project.

[Mark2215]

The easiest way is to replace the MBF “screws” by simple head screws!!


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I was thinking of that as an option, definitely safer than drilling.

[AmmoMike83]

I was thinking of that as an option, definitely safer than drilling.

The threads are too long anyways. At least on my version. :/

[Tazza]

The sad thing is, someone was bound to do it. If they feel they can make some money, they will steal the plans and go for it.

I had the same thing with a Bobcat repair forum, a guy took the time and effort to scan in his manuals and offer them to members to help them with repairs, these manuals appeared on Ebay for sale..... He then took down the free links and you had to request what you wanted for him to post a link after that.

[Recordingwhiz]

The threads are too long anyways. At least on my version. :/

Or just buy some M5 - 0.8 nuts and some small washers. Tony has expanded the size of the nut relief to allow the nut and washer to fit quite nicely. no need to undo what DA has done.

GG

[HATCH]

That explains the differences between the first one he printed which had a issue and the replacement.
Both had issues.
I bought two.
One is usable but doesn’t have the right amount of fill so it may not last. This is based on the weight of the piece and the fact when I went to enlarge a hole I ended up hitting a major void.
Thank goodness for JBweld

The other one had a layer shift towards the base part which screwed up the whole thing.
This should of been caught prior to shipping.
The replacement has a small layer shift but the bigger problem is the top of the walls have separation in multiple places.
I am going to attempt to superglue the layers together to see if I can salvage the base as I don’t want to waste 38hrs printing a replacement.

I had 6 plates made by tony.
2 each 9,40,45
All of them are trash because they were printed on a old design and the center hole was too large.

Another issue that other members are having is that the small parts were made with a low amount of fill. This includes the plates

Any tweaking you do with a file and you weaken the part because the strength is just in the other layers.

On my printer now
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180306/58175b798bc1a99327c2d29df5b0c5a6.jpg

Guess I will find out when I wake up if the one I printed has a issue in the morning. It’s at 88% but I am tired.


Tony is no longer on CB because he requested to be removed once he found out that he could not longer sell the collator here because he was no longer authorized by the license holder to do so.

He wasn’t a VS yet because this item was still a work in progress.

It is a shame because it is almost to the point that it is a viable nose down collator.

In fact the base I am printing is nose down only.





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[Tazza]

Looking great, not long to go! Shame it takes so long to print, but if you are doing 100% fill, it's best to let it take it's time and get a great result than to do less and have to re-make it again later.

How much filament does it take to do one of these prints?

[jmorris]

The sad thing is, someone was bound to do it. If they feel they can make some money, they will steal the plans and go for it.


I guess that is the sole difference between me an others. I once had a friend in a conversation with another tell them “oh, all he needs is an idea of what it looks like and it can be duplicated.” That’s a bit of a story but I’ll admit doing my fair share of following in others footsteps, never to sell and for information purposes.

There are now machines that feature some of the things I have developed though. Would have been nice to capitalize on the idea(s)but I think it’s better to further the hobby/sport. We don’t seem to be getting larger as a group...

[AmmoMike83]

Here is the link to Godaddy to file an infringement against them.
At least give them some feedback they can't sell.
https://supportcenter.godaddy.com/AbuseReport

Oh, and thanks for putting up for personal use! I hope to make one soon!

GoDaddy deleted it. Thank you!

[AmmoMike83]

Looking great, not long to go! Shame it takes so long to print, but if you are doing 100% fill, it's best to let it take it's time and get a great result than to do less and have to re-make it again later.

How much filament does it take to do one of these prints?

40.5m of 3mm filament - 321 g @ 80% infill and 0.15mm layer height

[AmmoMike83]

Statement

Due to several posts and private messages:
1.) Tony had my permission to print and sell the bullet feeder kits.
2.) I revoked it for several reasons:
- ****ty prints
- removed copyright after enlarging one hole from 6mm to 10mm
- lied several times
- tries to find excuses for HIS mistakes
3.) The OBF always was and is free to download and free to print. Not allowed are prints for profit or commercial reasons without permission.

openBulletFeeder - complete and fully customizable Bullet feeder by AmmoMike83 is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives license.
4.) My purpose is not making money with it. I just want to give the whole reloader community something back and make it affordable to have a bullet feeder without paying hundreds of bucks for it.

I really like and appreciate the collaboration here. The OBF would certainly not be at the state it is now without you guys. Thank you all for that!

If there are still any questions. Post or PM me.

Mike

P.S.: Thanks to the gunloads team for the birthday wishes! :)

[6bg6ga]

Took a look at the first collator base that Tony sent me and it only mentions the motor and no mention of AmmoMike on it. Looked at the replacement base and no mention either. The first one had a problem as the wall separated from the base and I ground into it and it was hollow. The second base seems to be heavier and better made.

Fitting the motor... I used dremel with a rotory file and slightly enlarged the holes well several holes were out of placement and I just made the threaded studs fit into the base, no nuts or nothing as its a tight fit and it hasn't come out yet. The first base with slight pressure started to pull out what seemed to be re-infored areas around the hole and I tapped them back in with a small hammer. JB weld came to my rescue and maybe it might be able to be used but I'm not sure.

I'm still out the bullet dropper tube for the 45 cal which I really wanted. I may just put the one sent to me into a vice and try to drill it out and use it. On the bright side it does work for 44 mag but that wasn't my intention.

Received the two piece slide in assembly for the nose down and it seems to have two different heights. JB weld will probably be needed to make them work also.

I tried to be really positive with the base and bullet collator wheels, different drop tubes, and slide in plates that were sent to me but its kinda hard to be positive when what I received just wasn't quite up to par.

In retro spect I wish I had waited and just purchased a machine to make my own collator. All I really wanted was one working one that would double for my 650 Dillon and my Star and Magma bullet sizer lubricator. I hope that AmmoMike83 will keep his files up so that the average guy wishing to make something that works at a fraction of the price of the commercial units can still do so for personal use ONLY. I didn't realize that the conditions of usage had been violated or I would not have purchased. Being older almost retired and not having any experience with 3D printing I really doubted that I had it in me to do so. In talking with Hatch he has explained to me that I would be able to run such a machine so there is still hope for old fools. Anyway, Mike I understand if you pull all of your files because you have been taken advantage of. I do hope you will consider letting the average guy use your files.

In any rate AmmoMike83 a hearty thanks for the time you devoted to making a working machine.

[6bg6ga]

A hearty Happy Birthday to you AmmoMike 83!!!!

[HATCH]

My first nose down only base finished last night. The 38 hr print did take a toll on the printer.
The Anet A8 has several known problems.
Mostly due to crappy connectors on the motherboard and the heat Bed.
I installed a mosfet when I built the unit so it pulls the high current from the bed off the motherboard.
What I didn’t do is solder the bed wires directly to the bed. Last night the connector failed at the bed because of the heat from a poor connection melting the plastic. Lucky for me it did not cause any issues with the print as I was already 88% done.
So today I will be soldering the wires directly to the heat bed.

Joe, once that’s done, I will print your 45 drop tube. 100% fill .1 layer

Then I will start printing the 50 collators that I was approved to build. ;-)
Just kidding about printing them.

I still need to print collator plates but I promised my son that I would print this huge item for him.

[AmmoMike83]

A hearty Happy Birthday to you AmmoMike 83!!!!

Thank you, Joe!

[6bg6ga]

So, is it too late to solder the wires to the bed? If its not I can send you some nickle silver solder in which to do it.

Whew, 50 collators printed the right way.... that's a boat load of hours.

I would just like to purchase a 3D printer to maybe print up several more collators for myself to use. I'm thinking about a center shaft with bearing and slot and running it with a belt drive motor probably a small sewing machine belt of some type with a torque arm that when it moves too far due to a malfunction it shuts down.

[AmmoMike83]

Took a look at the first collator base that Tony sent me and it only mentions the motor and no mention of AmmoMike on it. Looked at the replacement base and no mention either. The first one had a problem as the wall separated from the base and I ground into it and it was hollow. The second base seems to be heavier and better made.
That picture was on facebook. I confronted him with that (in an unpolite way), no reaction.


Fitting the motor... I used dremel with a rotory file and slightly enlarged the holes well several holes were out of placement and I just made the threaded studs fit into the base, no nuts or nothing as its a tight fit and it hasn't come out yet. The first base with slight pressure started to pull out what seemed to be re-infored areas around the hole and I tapped them back in with a small hammer. JB weld came to my rescue and maybe it might be able to be used but I'm not sure. Depending on the printer calibration, settings and material, it's normal that holes, e.g. 3mm are printed in 2.8mm and have to be drilled out. For that reason there are different drop tubes with differend inner diameter.


I'm still out the bullet dropper tube for the 45 cal which I really wanted. I may just put the one sent to me into a vice and try to drill it out and use it. On the bright side it does work for 44 mag but that wasn't my intention. see point above. Normally .45 (11.43mm) should fit into the tube with 12mm. Wrong printer settings, it won't. Then you have to go with the 13mm tube, or recalibrate the printer, or tell the slicer to print it 5% bigger on each axis.


Received the two piece slide in assembly for the nose down and it seems to have two different heights. JB weld will probably be needed to make them work also.215847 exactly 6.51mm on both sides. [smilie=1:


I tried to be really positive with the base and bullet collator wheels, different drop tubes, and slide in plates that were sent to me but its kinda hard to be positive when what I received just wasn't quite up to par. I am really sad to hear that. Hatch turned out as a reliable and professional 3D printer. Maybe he can help you. I would send you some part, but the shipping fees from Germany to US are rediculous high.


In retro spect I wish I had waited and just purchased a machine to make my own collator. All I really wanted was one working one that would double for my 650 Dillon and my Star and Magma bullet sizer lubricator. I hope that AmmoMike83 will keep his files up so that the average guy wishing to make something that works at a fraction of the price of the commercial units can still do so for personal use ONLY. I didn't realize that the conditions of usage had been violated or I would not have purchased. Being older almost retired and not having any experience with 3D printing I really doubted that I had it in me to do so. In talking with Hatch he has explained to me that I would be able to run such a machine so there is still hope for old fools. Anyway, Mike I understand if you pull all of your files because you have been taken advantage of. I do hope you will consider letting the average guy use your files. Great Idea!!! I will keep the files up.


In any rate AmmoMike83 a hearty thanks for the time you devoted to making a working machine. You are very welcome. Hope you will also get such an awesome machine soon. ;)

Mike

[HATCH]

Joe, and anyone else that bought from Tony, don’t worry.
It will take time but I will print whatever parts that are needed (except for base) to get it up and working. You will have to pay for the material and shipping.
Material cost is easy to figure because the filament is sold by weight and I can weigh the printed items to calculate cost.

[HATCH]

For reference, if my calculations is correct.
The base costs $7 in material and takes 38 hrs to print


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[jmorris]

My purpose is not making money with it. I just want to give the whole reloader community something back and make it affordable to have a bullet feeder without paying hundreds of bucks for it.

I really like and appreciate the collaboration here.

That is very generous and I too appreciate the collaboration.


The Anet A8 has several known problems.
Mostly due to crappy connectors on the motherboard and the heat Bed.

Any chance in your busy schedule you might start another thread just on the 3D printer “fixes”? Mine should be here today.

Also the 38 hour print, how much filimant does that use up?

[AmmoMike83]

40.5m of 3mm filament - 321 g @ 80% infill and 0.15mm layer height

see post #215 ;)

[AmmoMike83]

That is very generous and I too appreciate the collaboration.



Any chance in your busy schedule you might start another thread just on the 3D printer “fixes”? Mine should be here today.

Also the 38 hour print, how much filimant does that use up?

if you use cura as your slicer it will give you the information before print and it's **** accurate.

215850

[Mark2215]

I went to the hardware store to get smaller screws for the motor. However, none of the screws that were the right thread fit in the holes so looks like I'll be drilling. Since I'm drilling I think it would be better to go back to the original mounting bolts and nuts. The main reason is there is a raised circle around the output shaft of the motor so I'd have to get some type of spacer between the base plate and motor to make up for it. I did check the studs that come on the motor and they are not too long for the plate.

Mike, I really appreciate everything you have done so far and definitely don't want to sound like I'm whining but is there a reason you didn't design it to fit washers and nuts to use the factory bolts? Was it because your bolts were too long to use anyway?

[AmmoMike83]

I went to the hardware store to get smaller screws for the motor. However, none of the screws that were the right thread fit in the holes so looks like I'll be drilling. Since I'm drilling I think it would be better to go back to the original mounting bolts and nuts. The main reason is there is a raised circle around the output shaft of the motor so I'd have to get some type of spacer between the base plate and motor to make up for it. I did check the studs that come on the motor and they are not too long for the plate.

Mike, I really appreciate everything you have done so far and definitely don't want to sound like I'm whining but is there a reason you didn't design it to fit washers and nuts to use the factory bolts? Was it because your bolts were too long to use anyway?

Dear Mark. I changed the design to enable the usage of nuts. Another tip is:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180306/c9b5c22163797e9aeb1c5f84c27a4093.jpg Cut off the upper thread and make a slot in it with the Dremel and use it a screw. That’s the way it did it.

Mike

[HATCH]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180306/58972ff41be42551f2107c1dfb929ccf.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180306/a10b421b62f6a0da1e2309991a8b69cb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180306/d46f5e06ab268955be1f1d8f21daf740.jpg

Not the best pictures but those are three different bases that were printed with 3 different code versions

One is base down only.
One is original
One is a modified (larger motor holes)

As you can see the quality is all different

3D printing takes time.
If you want to rush it, it comes with a price.
Quality and durability is that price
One took 12 hrs
One took 24 hrs
And one took 38 hrs

Btw one is 100% usable
One requires some minor work and may be usable
One is trash

[Mark2215]

Charles, the first picture looks horrible.

I assembled mine today. I modified the flipper and the base wall in front of the flipper. What I did was shorten the flipper considerably and put a notch in the base wall so the flipper could move further. What was happening was the flipper was holding the bullets in too long not allowing the nose down bullets to drop through the plate. By modifying the flipper the bullets were clear of the flipper by the time they reached the hole. Once I did this I had 100% success with the 2 different 9mm bullets I had, one was a flat nose and the other a round nose, both bevel bases.

215865215866

[AmmoMike83]

Charles, the first picture looks horrible.

I assembled mine today. I modified the flipper and the base wall in front of the flipper. What I did was shorten the flipper considerably and put a notch in the base wall so the flipper could move further. What was happening was the flipper was holding the bullets in too long not allowing the nose down bullets to drop through the plate. By modifying the flipper the bullets were clear of the flipper by the time they reached the hole. Once I did this I had 100% success with the 2 different 9mm bullets I had, one was a flat nose and the other a round nose, both bevel bases.

215865215866

Thank you for that advise. Will test that tomorrow. Glad to hear it’s working for you with that fix! Please post a “I made one” on thingiverse :)

[6bg6ga]

Ok, I measured both plates and got 6.75 mm and 6.96mm for the other. I have .082 mm difference in height. I would have thought they could have been a better tolerance than that.

[HATCH]

I really don’t get it as they are printed side by side.


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[6bg6ga]

I really don’t get it as they are printed side by side.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Could his printer bed be off? I double checked my measurements. Its like they were printed separately.

[Mark2215]

Could his printer bed be off? I double checked my measurements. Its like they were printed separately.

I just printed the 2 piece nose down plate. Both are exactly the same thickness. I would think if his bed was that unlevel he'd have a hell of a time printing anything else without warping. My bed was barely out of level (less than the thickness of a piece of paper) but it was enough to cause my bullet plate to warp.


I did find a new problem. A 9mm flat nose bullet is getting jammed every once in a while. When it drops through the hole in the turning plate and entering the spring housing the flat nose of the bullet gets caught on the spring itself and starts a jam. Would it be possible to have the spring mounted in a recessed area the diameter of the outside of the spring and the rest of the spring housing be the same diameter internally inside as the spring and widen out from there? Basically a step in the last part of the spring housing that would hold the spring. I could always drill out a small housing to hold a large spring and give it a test.

[6bg6ga]

Could his printer bed be off? I double checked my measurements. Its like they were printed separately.

I can put both plates in the collator base and you can see the height difference with the naked eye. I can grind them so they are equal provided they are solid enough.

[HATCH]

He was suppose to print them solid


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[jmorris]

My machine came in today and thanks to Hatch I have a better than good starting point. Somehow I got the machine before the filimant so I ran a supposedly better fan shroud for the extruder with the little spool that came with the machine.

I’ll try and catch up soon....

Edit: Oh, no! The dreaded rotated left photos...

[AmmoMike83]

My machine came in today and thanks to Hatch I have a better than good starting point. Somehow I got the machine before the filimant so I ran a supposedly better fan shroud for the extruder with the little spool that came with the machine.

I’ll try and catch up soon....

Edit: Oh, no! The dreaded rotated left photos...

GREAT!! ... jmorrisPLASTICS :D

[AmmoMike83]

Charles, the first picture looks horrible.

I assembled mine today. I modified the flipper and the base wall in front of the flipper. What I did was shorten the flipper considerably and put a notch in the base wall so the flipper could move further. What was happening was the flipper was holding the bullets in too long not allowing the nose down bullets to drop through the plate. By modifying the flipper the bullets were clear of the flipper by the time they reached the hole. Once I did this I had 100% success with the 2 different 9mm bullets I had, one was a flat nose and the other a round nose, both bevel bases.

215865215866

Hi Mark,

you are right, I am working on a new design for the flipper that can be used with nosedown plates. A solution without printing a new whole base should be possible.

Mike

P.S.: really nice and solid print, btw!

[6bg6ga]

My machine came in today and thanks to Hatch I have a better than good starting point. Somehow I got the machine before the filimant so I ran a supposedly better fan shroud for the extruder with the little spool that came with the machine.

I’ll try and catch up soon....

Edit: Oh, no! The dreaded rotated left photos...

Its nice to see jmorris jump on the band wagon. I'm sure we can look forward to some amazing stuff from his talented mind. Good Job!!!

[Mark2215]

I did find a new problem. A 9mm flat nose bullet is getting jammed every once in a while. When it drops through the hole in the turning plate and entering the spring housing the flat nose of the bullet gets caught on the spring itself and starts a jam. Would it be possible to have the spring mounted in a recessed area the diameter of the outside of the spring and the rest of the spring housing be the same diameter internally inside as the spring and widen out from there? Basically a step in the last part of the spring housing that would hold the spring. I could always drill out a small housing to hold a large spring and give it a test.

I modified my small spring housing to hold the large spring. It works however I drilled the countersunk hole for the spring off center, I just couldn't clamp it solid enough to do a good job drilling. I just need to make sure I put the flush side down when screwing the housing to the plate.

[AmmoMike83]

I modified my small spring housing to hold the large spring. It works however I drilled the countersunk hole for the spring off center, I just couldn't clamp it solid enough to do a good job drilling. I just need to make sure I put the flush side down when screwing the housing to the plate.

There are several different springs out there, with different OD. Here a picture how to handle it.
215898

[6bg6ga]

There are several different springs out there, with different OD. Here a picture how to handle it.
215898

Hi Mike,

Are you using a refrigeration tubing spring that is used to bend copper pipe as your delivery tube to the dropper? I like that plastic piece. I assume it attaches to the bottom of the collator? Another piece I didn't get.

I just saw a set of those springs in the hardware store for roughly $6.00 ea if that i what your using.

[AmmoMike83]

Hi Mike,

Are you using a refrigeration tubing spring that is used to bend copper pipe as your delivery tube to the dropper? I like that plastic piece. I assume it attaches to the bottom of the collator? Another piece I didn't get.

I just saw a set of those springs in the hardware store for roughly $6.00 ea if that i what your using.

Please read the instructions on thingiverse ;)


Springs: https://www.doublealpha.biz/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor „Two sizes are available. The Small (10mm inner diameter) matches the springs used with the rifle caliber machines and the large size (12mm inner diameter) as shipped with the pistol calibers.”

[Mark2215]

There are several different springs out there, with different OD. Here a picture how to handle it.
215898

I'm using the MBF spring so there is no expanded end like the spring in the picture.

[AmmoMike83]

I'm using the MBF spring so there is no expanded end like the spring in the picture.

Take a pair of pliers and enlarge the first few "rings" of the spring a bit. That makes a good fit in the spring housing.

[6bg6ga]

I have to do something different. I cannot in good conscience purchase too much from MBF. a refrigeration spring for 3/8 tubing and 1/2" tubing are what I'm going to try for roughly $12.00 for the pair plus tax. I have several in my tool box if memory is correct but they may have some rust on them so new is in order.

[AmmoMike83]

I have to do something different. I cannot in good conscience purchase too much from MBF. a refrigeration spring for 3/8 tubing and 1/2" tubing are what I'm going to try for roughly $12.00 for the pair plus tax. I have several in my tool box if memory is correct but they may have some rust on them so new is in order.

That was just and expample. You can also use PETG tubing and a heatgun, or copper tubing, or scotty to beam them to the drop tube.