Making that Bullet Collator

[6bg6ga]

Maybe copper tubing with a flare at the collator end? I still have some refrigeration tools left.

[HATCH]

LMAO
For a second I was like what the heck is Scotty?
Then I reread and caught the Star Trek reference


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[AmmoMike83]

Maybe copper tubing with a flare at the collator end? I still have some refrigeration tools left.

Good idea, if you have the tools for that. Or do a simple "cross cut" into the tubing and bend the cuts a little bit to the outside, so it can fit the inner wall of the housing. (just an idea. i am not a plumber ;))

[6bg6ga]

Good idea, if you have the tools for that. Or do a simple "cross cut" into the tubing and bend the cuts a little bit to the outside, so it can fit the inner wall of the housing. (just an idea. i am not a plumber ;))

I gotta get me a 3D printer. Too bad I just had to buy the missing parts for my AR-15. I had to do it because I had a lower that was completely built and it kept calling to me to finish it. Maybe next month.

[AmmoMike83]

Charles, the first picture looks horrible.

I assembled mine today. I modified the flipper and the base wall in front of the flipper. What I did was shorten the flipper considerably and put a notch in the base wall so the flipper could move further. What was happening was the flipper was holding the bullets in too long not allowing the nose down bullets to drop through the plate. By modifying the flipper the bullets were clear of the flipper by the time they reached the hole. Once I did this I had 100% success with the 2 different 9mm bullets I had, one was a flat nose and the other a round nose, both bevel bases.

215865215866

I modified the flipper. It has an eliptical shape now, not interfering with the drop hole.

215903215904

what do you think?

[Recordingwhiz]

I have to do something different. I cannot in good conscience purchase too much from MBF. a refrigeration spring for 3/8 tubing and 1/2" tubing are what I'm going to try for roughly $12.00 for the pair plus tax. I have several in my tool box if memory is correct but they may have some rust on them so new is in order.

All that is needed from Double Alpha is the extension spring $11 (the MBF spring is WAY easier to use as it is way more flexible than tubing benders), the MBF motor $25 and the MBF drop die $49.. everything else is printed, or if you utilize my idea for mounting a piece of 3/4" square tubing from Home Depot for universal stand either from the press body or from anywhere on your bench then you can use my square tubing adapter I will post on thingiverse.

I will be Posting the 9 mm and .45 drop tubes that work for the Lee BD system. as well as a version for the RCBS drop die, all for the optical sensor only. Should have them up here within the next week or so on my Thingiverse (once I figure out how to upload the files) , and I'm sure Mike will link to them as I will send him the files as well to add to the original project.

Gerry G

[razorfish]

What printers and filament are you all using? (Anet A8 or A6) (ABS, PLA) (1.75 or 3.0).


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[HATCH]

Anet a8 , pla 1.75

Btw cheap $40’per 2 rolls

Had to look it up


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[Mxrick55555]

Monoprice maker select plus using Hatchbox pla 1.75 $22 shipped per roll on amazon.

[Mark2215]

Monoprice maker select plus, 1.25, glass on bed (stock bed was warped). Solutech PLA from Amazon, $20 per roll.

[Mxrick55555]

Monoprice maker select plus, 1.25, glass on bed (stock bed was warped). Solutech PLA from Amazon, $20 per roll.

My stock bed was also warped before I even got to use it. I wrote monoprice and they said they are sending me a replacement. I installed a piece of glass and really like the finished product and how well the print comes off the glass once it cools down.

[Recordingwhiz]

Anet A8 with 1.75 PLA about $14 and up per 1kg spool on Amazon. using the green surface plate Mamorubot from Amazon (best thing I ever got for printer EVER)

[HATCH]

Anet A8 with 1.75 PLA about $14 and up per 1kg spool on Amazon. using the green surface plate Mamorubot from Amazon (best thing I ever got for printer EVER)

I am having issues with my surface plate
Think my gap isn’t set right.
I am going to play around with it some more once I get my autobed level hooked up


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[Recordingwhiz]

I am having issues with my surface plate
Think my gap isn’t set right.
I am going to play around with it some more once I get my autobed level hooked up


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To make mine work perfectly I used a plain sheet of printer paper as the gap setter, first make sure 100% sure there is not a little glob of filament on the tip of extruder, then level all 4 corners several times making sure there is just enough gap that the paper is touching both the bed and extruder. I did mine a CH lower and had the paper have a little tension but I could still drag it out. mine holds better than anything I have ever seen and requires no glue, hairspray or tape, leaves the work table side looking like glass. and once it cools the item is just sitting there and can be lifted with no force required to separate.

Hope that helps

[HATCH]

Houston we have a problem


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180307/f9d839c10367a102c9bd03d588590aa9.jpg


Not the one I printed.
This was one of the first ones I got from tony.
Just finished assembling it.
Put a about 100 9mm Boolits in it and started testing.
The wall failed right at the top of the ramp




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[Tazza]

Bugger.... Can it be repaired with glue?

[HATCH]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180308/593e99c1b31fd214689cb06fad9d3757.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180308/d0ebd25dfc2f35a0ce771b80d47c49f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180308/abeede3e74f396d5be595048939a8e18.jpg

Sold at Home Depot
Packs of 3. 2 packs is under $4 with tax


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[HATCH]

Not sure if it can be repaired.

Its plastic so I could heat it up with a torch and refuse it.

I took my butane soldering iron and fused the top of the wall on the replacement I got from tony and I think it is usable now. Wall is pretty solid now.

That is the cool thing about working with plastics. If you catch a issue early on you can fuse it back with heat and it be good

[Tazza]

Good point, with time, i bet you will get to know all the tricks of what can and what can't be saved. When you understand how it works and how it reacts to heat, you can repair things if/when they break.

[HATCH]

I would put some cuss words in here but I don't want to give myself a infraction.

So, I played around with the broken base.
Something that I noticed was the inside section right where the wall separation started was glossy.
I thought it was just a issue with the printing or something.

So I took my butane soldering iron and used the heat port to heat up the plastic at the seam and fuse it back together on the outside part of the wall.
I smelled something towards the end but didn't think anything of it.
Well I started to fuse the inside part and started where the glossy section was.
Guess what. The glossy section is covered in SUPERGLUE!!
When I heated it up it gave off the distinct fumes and my eyes started burning..

Tony must of used superglue to fix the wall separation prior to shipping it to me.

The good news, is thanks to Tazza the collator base is repaired.

I fused the entire outside. I used the tip to stitch the ends and used the heat port to melt the seam all the way around it.
I used the heat port to melt the inside except where the superglue was. I hit it and my eyes started watering right away. Heated superglue is no joke.

The repair is strong. I took it in my hands and tried to break the wall and I couldn't.
I didn't put my full strength into it but I put more force then it would ever see and it didn't budge

[Tazza]

As soon as you mentioned hitting superglue with a torch, my throat started to close up, those fumes are NASTY, far worse than plastic gives off when being melted. I he tried to repair the fault and if it has worked, you never would have known.

Good to hear it seems that the repair is going to holdup really well. It may not look as pretty at it should, but functional is what you wanted.

[6bg6ga]

Not sure if it can be repaired.

Its plastic so I could heat it up with a torch and refuse it.

I took my butane soldering iron and fused the top of the wall on the replacement I got from tony and I think it is usable now. Wall is pretty solid now.

That is the cool thing about working with plastics. If you catch a issue early on you can fuse it back with heat and it be good

Why didn't I think of that? I used JB weld on mine and I should have just heated it up. I did however grind into the first one to see if it was solid and found out it was hollow. The JB weld filled the voids and made it smooth again. Oh, how I wish I had just bought a printer in thefirst place.

[6bg6ga]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180308/593e99c1b31fd214689cb06fad9d3757.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180308/d0ebd25dfc2f35a0ce771b80d47c49f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180308/abeede3e74f396d5be595048939a8e18.jpg

Sold at Home Depot
Packs of 3. 2 packs is under $4 with tax


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I tried a M5 X 25 and the pitch may have been different on mine or something. Mine screwed in several threads and stopped and I didn't want to force the issue. My M5 seemed to look the same thread wise as the original ones I took out of the gear box. I'm not however a metric champ so I stopped in my tracks and simply put the original back in.

[HATCH]

Oh, how I wish I had just bought a printer in thefirst place.

You and me both.
I paid $220 shipped for the following
2 bases
6 caliber plates
All the small pieces for 2 units.

Well you have seen the story on the bases.
The caliber plates are at the landfill and haven’t checked the small pieces but the one I check was junk

[jmorris]

I am having issues with my surface plate
Think my gap isn’t set right.

I can 4 corner my bed and set the gaps right but it’s not flat, the middle is higher by a tiny amount. Since that where things have been printed so far, that’s where I set the gap.

I cut a piece of glass to use on the top but the thermocouple wires on the bed come up to the top in the center.

So that makes for almost zero contact between the bed and glass top. Maybe there is some thermal paste/adhesive that would be perfect for this application?

I also wonder how the additional mass negatively effects the end product by causing more flex than normal.

[HATCH]

On your bed. There is a led.
Is that on top or on the bottom.

[Recordingwhiz]

I can 4 corner my bed and set the gaps right but it’s not flat, the middle is higher by a tiny amount. Since that where things have been printed so far, that’s where I set the gap.

I cut a piece of glass to use on the top but the thermocouple wires on the bed come up to the top in the center.

So that makes for almost zero contact between the bed and glass top. Maybe there is some thermal paste/adhesive that would be perfect for this application?

I also wonder how the additional mass negatively effects the end product by causing more flex than normal.

every printer I have ever seen has the leads coming from the bottom side, with the top "work surface" being a smooth aluminum plate, can you share pictures? perhaps the bed is upside down? (no offence)

GG

[jmorris]

Well, that could be. I figured the side that had the tape on it was the “print” side but I also put mine together off the little leaflet as I didn’t know there were instructions on the SD card until I was ready to print (aka didn’t read them).

Is the connector and LED indicator supposed to be up or down?

[HATCH]

Aluminum side up


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[HATCH]

Led down


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[Handloader109]

From what I've read there are a lot of folks using a pane of glass as bed. Some have put a few drops of oil or other medium to transfer heat better. If you FB, there is a group for the printer..... Yeah, I know. I hate FB too. But some of the groups have given me a lot of good information..... Saving my dimes for a printer....... thought I had almost enough, but needed it for more urgent need. So I begin again.

Oh, AmmoMike, glad to see that godaddy removed or told site owner to remove.... [smilie=p:

[jmorris]

Yep, it’s upside down, then. Thanks.

[Recordingwhiz]

do yourself a HUGE favor and get the green-ish build plate on Amazon, its about $14 and it does NOT require tape, hairspray or any type of glue. once at temp (60C) it grabs PLA like crazy, once cool after the print is done it releases with almost no effort. dont waste time with tape or glass with hairspray.

Cheers

[6bg6ga]

do yourself a HUGE favor and get the green-ish build plate on Amazon, its about $14 and it does NOT require tape, hairspray or any type of glue. once at temp (60C) it grabs PLA like crazy, once cool after the print is done it releases with almost no effort. dont waste time with tape or glass with hairspray.

Cheers

How about starting a list of the right stuff to buy when starting out with the 3D printer.

[MaryB]

Thermal paste for those who want to try it https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compound-Performance-Heatsink-Interface/dp/B004YITI5M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520565873&sr=8-6&keywords=thermal+paste+mx-2

[HATCH]

How about starting a list of the right stuff to buy when starting out with the 3D printer.

I will start a thread tomorrow


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[Mark2215]

do yourself a HUGE favor and get the green-ish build plate on Amazon, its about $14 and it does NOT require tape, hairspray or any type of glue. once at temp (60C) it grabs PLA like crazy, once cool after the print is done it releases with almost no effort. dont waste time with tape or glass with hairspray.

Cheers

Will this account for the already warped factory aluminum plate? I switched to glass with a thermal pad
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 under the glass because the stock aluminum bed was warped and it was impossible to level. I also reconfigured the maker select plus to use 3 screws for leveling which is the true way to level a bed.

[6bg6ga]

Thermal paste for those who want to try it https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compound-Performance-Heatsink-Interface/dp/B004YITI5M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520565873&sr=8-6&keywords=thermal+paste+mx-2

There are a number of heat sink compounds available. Some of these that state they work for CPU's are priced much higher than the simple transistor heat sink compound. Sometimes I think they are raising the prices simply because the compound will work with computer CPU's.
I still have a small tube I purchased probably 25 years ago. One word of caution here is you only need a Very Very small film of the grease. The thermal transfer is actually better with a very thin film than it is with a thick film. The smallest tube will do you.

[Recordingwhiz]

This is the one I ordered and it works flawlessly, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075JKCMRV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

no need for any sticky ANYTHING. just use 4 binder clips to secure each corner and boom youre off to the races, I heat mine up to 60c on first layers then 55c after initial layers. works like a charm. no need for paste or thermal anything.

Cheers

[AmmoMike83]

For 3D printing issues and discussions, please use:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?356551-Anet-A8-printer-Making-it-print-the-Bullet-collator

[AmmoMike83]

@Mark2215 Thank you for your generous tip!!

[AmmoMike83]

Cheers

Thanks for the tip, Gerry!!!

[MaryB]

I am using the one I linked with RF amplifiers that generate a LOT of heat. It is one of the top rated for thermal transfer score in testing. Silicone paste used for transistors in the old days doesn't come close to this stuff.


There are a number of heat sink compounds available. Some of these that state they work for CPU's are priced much higher than the simple transistor heat sink compound. Sometimes I think they are raising the prices simply because the compound will work with computer CPU's.
I still have a small tube I purchased probably 25 years ago. One word of caution here is you only need a Very Very small film of the grease. The thermal transfer is actually better with a very thin film than it is with a thick film. The smallest tube will do you.

[6bg6ga]

I am using the one I linked with RF amplifiers that generate a LOT of heat. It is one of the top rated for thermal transfer score in testing. Silicone paste used for transistors in the old days doesn't come close to this stuff.

I'll be blunt here.... all you need is the cheap stuff here for this application. Reloaders and casters are cheap people and in this case its not necessary to spend the money for the very best paste. The mosfets in question that are being bought as a module are not producing very much heat. If one wants to buy mosfets and heat sinks and make up their own units a quick temp check with a IR thermometer will show that cheap compound will work fine.

[jmorris]

Well it took about 13 hours longer to print than just make one but it doesn’t take any other tools to create.

Due to the hollow design it weighs a lot less than the ones I machined from Hyvar but for the application I am sure they will be more than strong enough.

[6bg6ga]

It looks great!!

So, the mirror is taped to the bed? Where does the cement come into play? Sorry, I'm old. Oh, what kind of Green tape?

[Redwoode]

Well done!!

[Mark2215]

I modified the flipper. It has an eliptical shape now, not interfering with the drop hole.

215903215904

what do you think?

Mike, I was looking for the file for the redesigned flipper but could not find it. i was going to print it out and give it a try.

[AmmoMike83]

Mike, I was looking for the file for the redesigned flipper but could not find it. i was going to print it out and give it a try.

uploaded. have fun.

[AmmoMike83]

Well it took about 13 hours longer to print than just make one but it doesn’t take any other tools to create.

Due to the hollow design it weighs a lot less than the ones I machined from Hyvar but for the application I am sure they will be more than strong enough.

Awesome print. What infill did you use?

[jmorris]

I don’t know, whatever the default settings are, I didn’t change anything. I didn’t try and measure it while it was running but did take a photo of the grid inside, someone with experience would have a better guess than me.

All I did was tape the mirror to the bed, no cement or anything else. I had this https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Scotch-Performance-Green-Masking-Tape-233-/?N=5002385+3293194146&rt=rud because it doesn’t leave any adhesive behind upon removal may not be the best but it worked.

[AmmoMike83]

I don’t know, whatever the default settings are, I didn’t change anything. I didn’t try and measure it while it was running but did take a photo of the grid inside, someone with experience would have a better guess than me.

All I did was tape the mirror to the bed, no cement or anything else. I had this https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Scotch-Performance-Green-Masking-Tape-233-/?N=5002385+3293194146&rt=rud because it doesn’t leave any adhesive behind upon removal may not be the best but it worked.

That's not enough infill. Change it to at least 80%, otherwise I might break.

[jmorris]

What are the settings you suggest for the body and other parts? Anything other than infill that needs to be changed?

[AmmoMike83]

What are the settings you suggest for the body and other parts? Anything other than infill that needs to be changed?

Layer Height 0.15 or 0.10
Infill Density 80% or 100%
Wall Count: 4 or 6
Generate support: off
build plate adhesion type: brim
brim width: 6 mm or 8 mm

cooling: enabled
retraction: enabled

[Mark2215]

I use .10, .09 for first layer , 80% infill, skirt, no support

[jmorris]

Thanks. It’s going to be a couple of days before I can print the rest. The bullet plate is close enough to the ones I machined I’ll use it in one of my current collators to see if it will hold up.

What’s the print time on one of these with 100% infill?

[AmmoMike83]

Thanks. It’s going to be a couple of days before I can print the rest. The bullet plate is close enough to the ones I machined I’ll use it in one of my current collators to see if it will hold up.

What’s the print time on one of these with 100% infill?

There is a collator plate generator online, where you can change diameter of the plate. Bullet diameter and other stuff. Instructions are in the file. It will dynamically generate your personal collator plate. Give it a try! ;)

Mike

[6bg6ga]

There is a collator plate generator online, where you can change diameter of the plate. Bullet diameter and other stuff. Instructions are in the file. It will dynamically generate your personal collator plate. Give it a try! ;)

Mike

Where do you find the generator program? I haven't found it yet.

Thanks,
Joe

[AmmoMike83]

Where do you find the generator program? I haven't found it yet.

Thanks,
Joe

See thing instructions on thingiverse

https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4711208

[AmmoMike83]

I rerendered the collator plates. The "spacing issue" is gone now. Sorry guys. The 9 mm plate was OK. @jmorris: If you want a special collator plate, just give me the data. I will create one and send the file to you.

Mike

[AmmoMike83]

I use .10, .09 for first layer , 80% infill, skirt, no support

A skirt is an outline that surrounds your part but does not touch the part. The skirt is extruded on the print bed before starting to print your model. Skirts serve a useful purpose because they help prime your extruder and establish a smooth flow of filament.

To increase the parts adhesion to the build plate and to prevent it from warping, I recommend to use brim instead of skirt.

if there are any question, please take a look at: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/

[6bg6ga]

Ok, the spring loaded arm has been re-designed. So, can one heat the arm up with a hot air gun and bend it? Does the original have to be trimmed?

[AmmoMike83]

Ok, the spring loaded arm has been re-designed. So, can one heat the arm up with a hot air gun and bend it? Does the original have to be trimmed?

Hi Joe,

if it was printed in PLA for sure. Heatup your heat gun to 375 °F and bend it. ABS and that carbon fiber stuff might become brittle or break. Make sure you wear gloves.

Mike

[jmorris]

Layer Height 0.15 or 0.10
Infill Density 80% or 100%
Wall Count: 4 or 6
Generate support: off
build plate adhesion type: brim
brim width: 6 mm or 8 mm

cooling: enabled
retraction: enabled

For the v2 base plate mrbullet feeder motor

With

layer height .1
Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
Infill 100%
Printing temp 190
Plate temp 45
Diameter 1.75
Flow 100
Speed print 50
Travel 120
Cooling enabled
No support
Adhesion brim, 8mm

Is a 3 day, 8 hour and 46 minute print. That’s almost 81 hours, how are you all getting it done so quickly?

[HATCH]

The base isn’t 100%
80%
1.5 layer
Should be about 38 hrs


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[jmorris]

Wow, I wouldn’t have thought they could squirt out that much with any precision. How does it effect strength with layers that thick?

Edit
Ok, I am getting 3h 42min for 1.5mm thick and it’s orange (guessing out of range or something) assuming the decimal was off and you meant .15.

.15 @ 80% with the other settings above I get 33 hr 25 min.

I went ahead and let her rip on .1 @ 80% after I made that last post for 49 hours.

Other than time printing what is the overall effect of the .05 change in layer height?


While I have my thinking cap on the 9mm bullet plate with the settings in #314 is almost 2 day 4 hour print.

The one I printed I think was at 20% and took less than 14 hr. What if you flipped the print, so the top was down and left the bottom open. After it stops fill the honeycomb with epoxy, save a day an a half of printing and it would likely be stronger. Any thoughts?

[Mark2215]

jmorris, I did 80% infill but the rest was almost the same as you said. It took me 3 days. Luckily I was going away for the weekend so I started it before I left and when I got back it was done!

[Tazza]

Jmorris - that is thinking, it sure would speed things up. It does makes for another process, but if people are happy to just set the printer up and leave it go, they may not care.

Filament seems to be pretty cheap, may be cheaper than epoxy is too

[6bg6ga]

I don't think I would care how much filament it took or how long. I just want something that doesn't fall apart when you work with it or actually use it.

[AmmoMike83]

@320 grams for the base plate it's about 2 maybe 3 bucks of filament costs. If that's too much for you. Go and buy a Mr. Bulletfeeder :D :P

Added a wiring schematic today, btw.

[6bg6ga]

Maybe Rick will hire you and finally get a decent running collator. On second thought....no we would loose a good member and a viable source of good information.

Its just amazing that a company has to charge so much for something. I unfortunately purchased a MBF bullet dropper for 45 cal. At somewhere around $100 or more(can't remember now) it worked no better than the cheaper RCBS units that I purchased for 9mm and 40 cal. I bought both of them for less than what I spent for the MBF dropper.

[Tazza]

I too feel the MBF system is a bit too expensive for what it is (that's why i haven't bought one), but i do understand that he needed to get a profit for the time and money he spent developing it, which is fair. We see it a lot over here, there are people in the shooting community that seem to price them selves out of the market. Keep it to a reasonable price, people will come back and tell their friends, charge too much and they will also tell their friends, but not return.

[6bg6ga]

There is a difference between a fair amount of profit and being just plain over priced. I would assume the MBF unit is injection molded and as such is very inexpensive to manufacture. There are several ways to go about this. Buy the molds to make it in house or simply farm it out to another manufacturer and use their tools and expertise to manufacture it. Maybe your talking around 8-10K for the molds to do this and farm it out. Figure a start up of say 10K and your talking adding $1 per unit, 5k units and your talking $2 per unit. 1K units and your talking $10 per unit. Any plastics house would be able to do the work and happy to undertake it. If you figured $50 per unit the cost of the materials, time, and cost per unit to recoup for the dies this is still excessive. Take this $50 and add the cost of the motor in quantity add another $15.00 now your up to $65 per unit and add say another $15 for assembly and your looking at a whopping $80 per unit. Take this times 500%+ and that is about the profit margin MBF has.

This why we like to DIY......Thanks again Mike.

[Tazza]

I do agree, i guess some people just look at the fact it's their design/product and if you want it, you will pay for it. I feel it's wrong, but hey, it's not my design that i'm trying to turn a profit on. It would be nice to have a product everyone wants that you make good money on, you can sit back and do nothing and let the money roll in :)

[AmmoMike83]

There is a difference between a fair amount of profit and being just plain over priced. I would assume the MBF unit is injection molded and as such is very inexpensive to manufacture. There are several ways to go about this. Buy the molds to make it in house or simply farm it out to another manufacturer and use their tools and expertise to manufacture it. Maybe your talking around 8-10K for the molds to do this and farm it out. Figure a start up of say 10K and your talking adding $1 per unit, 5k units and your talking $2 per unit. 1K units and your talking $10 per unit. Any plastics house would be able to do the work and happy to undertake it. If you figured $50 per unit the cost of the materials, time, and cost per unit to recoup for the dies this is still excessive. Take this $50 and add the cost of the motor in quantity add another $15.00 now your up to $65 per unit and add say another $15 for assembly and your looking at a whopping $80 per unit. Take this times 500%+ and that is about the profit margin MBF has.

This why we like to DIY......Thanks again Mike.
My pleasure, Joe! I agree btw. It took me 6 month to develop and another 4 month to improve and make all the stuff to make it public and people able to create it on their own.


I do agree, i guess some people just look at the fact it's their design/product and if you want it, you will pay for it. I feel it's wrong, but hey, it's not my design that i'm trying to turn a profit on. It would be nice to have a product everyone wants that you make good money on, you can sit back and do nothing and let the money roll in :)
Do you want to buy a license of the OBF? :razz:

[jmorris]

@320 grams for the base plate it's about 2 maybe 3 bucks of filament costs. If that's too much for you. Go and buy a Mr. Bulletfeeder :P

Not about cost really it has already been pointed out that it would be more expensive and among the bullet collators I have built in the past I actually do have a factory MBF collator. I was looking at it from a time and more importantly, strength perspective.

There are epoxies out there that are much stronger than the base material we are using not to mention not being “layers” when cured.

Kind of like the one Hatch was messing with that fell apart, had that just been a hollow mold but filled with any number of epoxies, it wouldn’t have done that.

[AmmoMike83]

Not about cost really it has already been pointed out that it would be more expensive and among the bullet collators I have built in the past I actually do have a factory MBF collator. I was looking at it from a time and more importantly, strength perspective.

There are epoxies out there that are much stronger than the base material we are using not to mention not being “layers” when cured.

Kind of like the one Hatch was messing with that fell apart, had that just been a hollow mold but filled with any number of epoxies, it wouldn’t have done that.

We discussed that several times. If it would have been printed as advised with the correct infill, there are no issues. I put 2 pounds of jacketed lead bulltes in my collator with 80% infill. No issues. If you want to test, print a square with 3 mm height and 80% infill and try to break it.

[HATCH]

80% is a very fine mesh type fill.
It is very strong.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AmmoMike83]

Here are some impressions from the bolt through mount.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/7b2ce10ee65dfbdd4b4234fe85520b98.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/1361ebe4f8b1b017a2aafd12ec5cd3fc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/969b6868c4c820c9e756aedbfe51c9d5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/ea3f16a652701df8fa9eda8fd0ded250.jpg

[6bg6ga]

Looks good

[Tazza]

Really does look good.

[AmmoMike83]

Thanks!
I am thinking about to change the wall height a bit from 90 mm to 110 or 120mm. Any opinions?
There is a nice top cover online from hunkas https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2832323 btw.

[6bg6ga]

I'd leave it as is.

[jmorris]

That would make it closer to the current MBF.

When I built mine I didn’t see any reason to make the walls “square” as due to the operating angle and gravity, there is no reason to make the front taller than the back.

I used PVC pipe for the walls on them and one angle cut made two parts that also used up less material. Makes the top of the bullet collator level, just like the case collators.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216741&d=1521552838

[AmmoMike83]

That would make it closer to the current MBF.

When I built mine I didn’t see any reason to make the walls “square” as due to the operating angle and gravity, there is no reason to make the front taller than the back.

I used PVC pipe for the walls on them and one angle cut made two parts that also used up less material. Makes the top of the bullet collator level, just like the case collators.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216741&d=1521552838

That one in the middle looks best :D
I uploaded the design with higher walls.

[jmorris]

Mike, any chance I could get you to design another spring housing?

I printed out the small one and it’s too big for the little 380 bullets I am using.

The .600 drop hole in the collator I think is ok but the spring housing is .800 on the big end and everynow and then the bullet gets sideways.

The hole kind of needs to be off set and clocked with the bolt pattern.

How hard would it be to creat a “blank” that has the flange with bolt pattern but solid with no hole so the taper/through hole could be machined?

It could even fit up inside the collator from the bottom, so untouched could act as the plug for nose down collating.

[Mark2215]

I designed a spring housing for smaller bullets because I was having the same problem. If you want I can send it to you this afternoon when I get home.

[jmorris]

Thanks but I realized the flaw in what I was wanting, I noticed there is a chamfer on the inside this morning when I took another look at it.

So I just drilled the base out to 3/4” and turned down a section of 1 inch UHMW to 3/4 so it drops in to the shoulder.

Then drilled the drop hole so it is lined up with the bullet plate. To simplify machining and time it takes to swap, I drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole in the side of the base plate to hold it in place. That will keep me from breaking off any more of the #2 brass screws I used to hold on the original housing, I know, they were all I had on hand.

[AmmoMike83]

Mike, any chance I could get you to design another spring housing?

I printed out the small one and it’s too big for the little 380 bullets I am using.

The .600 drop hole in the collator I think is ok but the spring housing is .800 on the big end and everynow and then the bullet gets sideways.

The hole kind of needs to be off set and clocked with the bolt pattern.

How hard would it be to creat a “blank” that has the flange with bolt pattern but solid with no hole so the taper/through hole could be machined?

It could even fit up inside the collator from the bottom, so untouched could act as the plug for nose down collating.

Sure. No problem. Do you still need it?
It's uploaded on thingiverse.

[jmorris]

Thanks, I think I have this one about done.

The drop tube I printed off didn’t fit the switch I had and wasn’t sure how I was going to attach it to the feed die I am using for these bullets.

So I just took a couple more pieces of plastic and milled a slot for the switch arm, a pocket for the body and a groove for a zip tie tohold it there. Then some clear tube to attach it to the part that is a press fit onto the Hornady feed die.

[AmmoMike83]

Thanks, I think I have this one about done.

The drop tube I printed off didn’t fit the switch I had and wasn’t sure how I was going to attach it to the feed die I am using for these bullets.

So I just took a couple more pieces of plastic and milled a slot for the switch arm, a pocket for the body and a groove for a zip tie tohold it there. Then some clear tube to attach it to the part that is a press fit onto the Hornady feed die.

Nice work, Joe! There are different drop tubes for these kind of switches. They are marked as „switch big“ they fit. I made them for Mark 2 or 3 weeks ago.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180322/bb77414a78ba5548ff5621eef1204847.jpg

[jmorris]

I did see the others just didn’t see any dimensions for the switch. I was finishing up an 80% 9mm plate anyway so I just machined the parts and I needed to attach to the Hornady die then be tall enough so the spring I have can make it to the collator.

[jmorris]

Much better part with the change in settings.

https://ibb.co/cKiYSx

[AmmoMike83]

Much better part with the change in settings.

https://ibb.co/cKiYSx

I agree! What did you change?

[jmorris]

Infill to 80%, bed temp to 70 and nozzle to 200.

[AmmoMike83]

Infill to 80%, bed temp to 70 and nozzle to 200.

I'm looking forward to the video! :)

[jmorris]

I just printed off a blank nose guide so I can machine it so the depth tapers off towards the drop hole. These bullets are not only short but hollow base as well so when they lay down the deep ledge pulls them out of the plate completely.

It would already be working great with any normal bullet. Great job and thank you again!

[AmmoMike83]

I just printed off a blank nose guide so I can machine it so the depth tapers off towards the drop hole. These bullets are not only short but hollow base as well so when they lay down the deep ledge pulls them out of the plate completely.

It would already be working great with any normal bullet. Great job and thank you again!

My pleasure! If you have finished your design for your special boolits would you send me the measurements please?

[Mark2215]

Here is the spring housing I am using, it works great with the MBF spring.

[AmmoMike83]

Here is the spring housing I am using, it works great with the MBF spring.

Thanks. Will look at it tomorrow!

[jmorris]

My pleasure! If you have finished your design for your special boolits would you send me the measurements please?


Absolutely, I was going to try and do it this evening but didn’t get a chance might be able to get out in the shop to do it Monday.

I think, having it the “standard” .100” depth on the spring loaded flipper side and taper to nothing/zero ledge by the time it gets to the ramp/hole side, will lay the bullets down but not have them fall out of the plate.

If that makes sense and isn’t too difficult, I’d print it and test it if you felt like creating it. If not I already have a “blank” printed and can mill it next week.

[AmmoMike83]

Absolutely, I was going to try and do it this evening but didn’t get a chance might be able to get out in the shop to do it Monday.

I think, having it the “standard” .100” depth on the spring loaded flipper side and taper to nothing/zero ledge by the time it gets to the ramp/hole side, will lay the bullets down but not have them fall out of the plate.

If that makes sense and isn’t too difficult, I’d print it and test it if you felt like creating it. If not I already have a “blank” printed and can mill it next week.

Sure. I am on a trip with my kids. Could you make some drawings please?

[jmorris]

It’s one of those things that easier todo than draw. Looks like I am out of storage room for photos here but like this.

https://ibb.co/crZkc7

So it can grab the nose of the bullet to lay it down but as soon as it starts it begins to taper off, reducing the tendency to pull the bullet out of the plate.

Did a quick test and it looks like it solved the problem. Outof time top,ay with it forthe weekend though.

[AmmoMike83]

It’s one of those things that easier todo than draw. Looks like I am out of storage room for photos here but like this.

https://ibb.co/crZkc7

So it can grab the nose of the bullet to lay it down but as soon as it starts it begins to taper off, reducing the tendency to pull the bullet out of the plate.

Did a quick test and it looks like it solved the problem. Outof time top,ay with it forthe weekend though.

Thanks! It's uploaded. Don't know exactly what you mean with that change, but I adapted it. If you have some time, I would like to see a video (with explanation). Thanks again and have a nice weekend.

Mike

[AmmoMike83]

Here is the spring housing I am using, it works great with the MBF spring.

Looks good and definitely makes sense. Did you glue the spring in, or just pushing it in?

[Mark2215]

I slightly expanded the first couple of rings and pushed it in. It feels plenty secure. I ran over 1000 bullets thru it this weekend and it didn't fall out.

[AmmoMike83]

I slightly expanded the first couple of rings and pushed it in. It feels plenty secure. I ran over 1000 bullets thru it this weekend and it didn't fall out.

Thank you, Mark! Recreated, rendered and uploaded to thingiverse!

[jmorris]

Well, I started printing the latest base Fri and came home yesterday and stopped it, here.

https://ibb.co/cyo3h7


In the side you can see it moved over slightly in the sides then a few hours later moved over a couple inches. Amazingly enough it did gather itself back up in thin air but it’s not going to work like that.

The base looks pretty solid so I guess I get to try the separate base/wall design out.

Anyone have any idea what would cause the machine to do something like that?

[AmmoMike83]

Well, I started printing the latest base Fri and came home yesterday and stopped it, here.

https://ibb.co/cyo3h7


In the side you can see it moved over slightly in the sides then a few hours later moved over a couple inches. Amazingly enough it did gather itself back up in thin air but it’s not going to work like that.

The base looks pretty solid so I guess I get to try the separate base/wall design out.

Anyone have any idea what would cause the machine to do something like that?

This is called layer shifting:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Shifted_layers

belt tension too loose?

[jmorris]

It’s a clogged belt and tight enough I don’t think even if I made the bed immovable it could jump a tooth.

[AmmoMike83]

It’s a clogged belt and tight enough I don’t think even if I made the bed immovable it could jump a tooth.

please have a look at the link from post #359, there are 31 other possibilities.

[Mark2215]

Mike,
I reprinted my 45 plate and now unfortunately it's too small/the bullet holes are too big. What's happening now is the bullets are falling sideways when they pass over the flipper plate like they should but they are getting wedged against the ramp. Basically, the bullets are too short to reach the ramp and ride up it to upright themselves.

[AmmoMike83]

Mike,
I reprinted my 45 plate and now unfortunately it's too small/the bullet holes are too big. What's happening now is the bullets are falling sideways when they pass over the flipper plate like they should but they are getting wedged against the ramp. Basically, the bullets are too short to reach the ramp and ride up it to upright themselves.

Could you send me a picture please?

[jmorris]

please have a look at the link from post #359, there are 31 other possibilities.

9&16 were concerns of mine with adding glass on the bed, it has printed a lot of stuff though including one of the bullet bases.

I’ll go over the list and track it down.

Thanks.

[AmmoMike83]

Mike,
I reprinted my 45 plate and now unfortunately it's too small/the bullet holes are too big. What's happening now is the bullets are falling sideways when they pass over the flipper plate like they should but they are getting wedged against the ramp. Basically, the bullets are too short to reach the ramp and ride up it to upright themselves.

Hi Mark,

I added two new ATPs for bigger calibers (single slide version and double slide version). I suggest to go with the double slide version.

Double slide:
https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4766570
bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_big_cal_double_slide.stl

Single slide:
https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4766571
bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_big_cal.stl

Both have a different angle compared to the "normal version", 25°, instead of 20°.

Give it a try.
Mike

[Mark2215]

Mike,
I'll try to get a picture later tonight. The ATP isn't the issue, the bullet lays down just fine. The issue is once laid down the bullet gets wedged against the inside of the ramp on the collator base instead of riding up the ramp like it should.

[AmmoMike83]

Mike,
I'll try to get a picture later tonight. The ATP isn't the issue, the bullet lays down just fine. The issue is once laid down the bullet gets wedged against the inside of the ramp on the collator base instead of riding up the ramp like it should.

Open that double slide file... :)

[AmmoMike83]

Mike,
I'll try to get a picture later tonight. The ATP isn't the issue, the bullet lays down just fine. The issue is once laid down the bullet gets wedged against the inside of the ramp on the collator base instead of riding up the ramp like it should.

If it won’t work you can create your own collator plate with the generator. If you don’t know how to do it please send me the measurements of your bullet.

[Mark2215]

I did some filing on the base and got it to work much more reliably. It only jammed once in about 400 test bullets. Here's a picture of the one that jammed. It's tough to tell from the picture but it's wedged in there.

217117

[Mark2215]

I'm satisfied with the setup right now, however I'll be printing the taller walled base. I can't put too many in without having them spill out right now. Here's a few pictures.

217118
217119

[AmmoMike83]

I'm satisfied with the setup right now, however I'll be printing the taller walled base. I can't put too many in without having them spill out right now. Here's a few pictures.

217118
217119

That taller wall version is online. Can you give me the measurements from your bullets, i will send you a new collator file tomorrow.

Very nice setup!!! I am jealous!!

[AmmoMike83]

I did some filing on the base and got it to work much more reliably. It only jammed once in about 400 test bullets. Here's a picture of the one that jammed. It's tough to tell from the picture but it's wedged in there.

217117

Hi Mark,

I can come up with 2 different solutions to that .45 ACP issue:
- the collator plate is actually printed 2.5 mm smaller then the base, this means the base is 150mm the collator plate is printed in 147.5 mm so there is a gap of 1.25 mm at the outside of the collator plate to the inner base wall. I can enlarge the collator plate to 148.5.
- the other possibility is to reduce the size of the "pickup holes" of the collator plate. It's 11.43 (.45) + 1.4 mm, so there is a gap of 0.7 mm around the bullet and the "pickup hole" to ensure that the bullet can rotate freely. Maybe it can set to 11.43 mm + 1.0 mm.

Let me know your opinion.

Mike

[J. DIEGO]

Hi Mike
Now I need drop-tube for micro switch
I tried unsuccessfully to connect the drop-tube that you prepared yesterday
Diameter 16mm for 10mm inside
Thank you
Diego

[AmmoMike83]

Hi Mike
Now I need drop-tube for micro switch
I tried unsuccessfully to connect the drop-tube that you prepared yesterday
Diameter 16mm for 10mm inside
Thank you
Diego

which type of switch?

[J. DIEGO]

bf_v2_drop_tube_switch_id10mm_large_spring.stl

[J. DIEGO]

Although better would be the big !! I have more room to adjust the switch
or end of career!
Thank you

[AmmoMike83]

Although better would be the big !! I have more room to adjust the switch
or end of career!
Thank you

That won't work. Tell me if you have found a switch with an operating force of 0.01 N and send me the article number and vendor.

[J. DIEGO]

That's right, I also have late career and it does not work how smooth they should be
they block the dropping of the leads!
That's right, dillon sells one for his food hopper and if it works with the weight
of a 9mm sheath should also do it with the leads.

[J. DIEGO]

https://www.amazon.es/Sensor-Infrarrojo-Veh%C2%A8%C2%AAculos-*********tes-Obst%C2%A8%C2%A2culos/dp/B01MSON75U/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1522338568&sr=8-27&keywords=barrera+infrarrojos

I've tried with this same infrared, desoldering from its zocalo
to take them to drop_tube ...... but I have not been successful.: oops:

[AmmoMike83]

That's right, I also have late career and it does not work how smooth they should be
they block the dropping of the leads!
That's right, dillon sells one for his food hopper and if it works with the weight
of a 9mm sheath should also do it with the leads.

The dropping isn't the problem. The problem is to release the bullets, after putting the press handle.

I had no success either with that IR-LED stuff. The problem is, that you cannot enlarge the sensor cables. Visible light works fine.
This worked for me https://www.conrad.de/de/kemo-lichtschranke-b045-bausatz-191413.html with the 12v visible white LEDs. Maybe it's available in Spain. Just google for "Kemo B045" (self soldering kit!)

[J. DIEGO]

With this infrared if you can lengthen with cables?

[AmmoMike83]

With this infrared if you can lengthen with cables?

It’s not infrared. It’s visible light.

[J. DIEGO]

The good thing about this switch is that it already has the built-in relay!: razz:

[J. DIEGO]

I have it in amazon this switch, but it seems like an armed robbery
that costs € 18, roughly 20 usd

[AmmoMike83]

I have it in amazon this switch, but it seems like an armed robbery
that costs € 18, roughly 20 usd

Link please. Euro is ok. I am from Germany. We have that here too ;)

[J. DIEGO]

https://www.ebay.es/itm/KEMO-B045-Lichtschranke-12-V-Bausatz-Light-barrier-kit/252601849373?hash=item3ad03e561d:g:y4sAAOSwZW5aBCo k

I just located on ebay for this price

[J. DIEGO]

Amazon
https://www.amazon.es/Interruptor-fotoel%C3%A9ctrico-escuela-dimmer-conmutador/dp/B000YIWLOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522341568&sr=8-1&keywords=Kemo+B045

[AmmoMike83]

https://www.ebay.es/itm/KEMO-B045-Lichtschranke-12-V-Bausatz-Light-barrier-kit/252601849373?hash=item3ad03e561d:g:y4sAAOSwZW5aBCo k

I just located on ebay for this price

That's a good price. Read the instructions carefully! You can build it in two ways, normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC). If there is light, the relais must be closed, not otherwise round!

[J. DIEGO]

Well if you tell me that it is a good price and I can extend the distance with cable --- then I will order two, one for my star lube and another one for my loadmaster !!

[AmmoMike83]

Well if you tell me that it is a good price and I can extend the distance with cable --- then I will order two, one for my star lube and another one for my loadmaster !!

I have the same up and running, watch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH80AcEvQGM

[J. DIEGO]

Well if you tell me that it is a good price and I can extend the distance with cable --- then I will order two, one for my star lube and another one for my loadmaster !!

[J. DIEGO]

By the way recently finished!217251

[AmmoMike83]

By the way recently finished!217251

Nice print, ugly color :D What kind of bullets are this?

[J. DIEGO]

That won't work. Tell me if you have found a switch with an operating force of 0.01 N and send me the article number and vendor.

Dillon has this accessory and it should work, if he does it with the pods
With lead bullets there should be no problems.

http://www.topgun-a.com/maquinas-de-recarga/sistema-de-parada-vainas-tolva

[J. DIEGO]

Nice print, ugly color :D What kind of bullets are this?

The bullets that appear in the photos are 32wc for my Pardini hp

[AmmoMike83]

Dillon has this accessory and it should work, if he does it with the pods
With lead bullets there should be no problems.

http://www.topgun-a.com/maquinas-de-recarga/sistema-de-parada-vainas-tolva

Hard to say without a datasheet.

[AmmoMike83]

The bullets that appear in the photos are 32wc for my Pardini hp

You know that you can't sort WC bullets in a bullet feeder?

[J. DIEGO]

You know that you can't sort WC bullets in a bullet feeder?


If I know, this feeder is for 9mm and for 38
Although maybe you could create a feeder based on this;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xXDZ0E4DU4&t=13s

[J. DIEGO]

And also this other piece would be needed !!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw0VdRcZrpA

[AmmoMike83]

If I know, this feeder is for 9mm and for 38
Although maybe you could create a feeder based on this;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xXDZ0E4DU4&t=13s
Casefeeder. hm... There are easier designes based on weight difference between base and case mouth. Maybe a future option. Have enough to do with answering question atm with the bullet feeder :D :D


And also this other piece would be needed !!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw0VdRcZrpA

there is a better design from jmorris. Not rotating parts. I adapted it you can download it on thingiverse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqjjiKPX5iQ

[J. DIEGO]

And now to fill the glass!217252
217253
217254

[J. DIEGO]

Casefeeder. hm... There are easier designes based on weight difference between base and case mouth. Maybe a future option. Have enough to do with answering question atm with the bullet feeder :D :D



there is a better design from jmorris. Not rotating parts. I adapted it you can download it on thingiverse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqjjiKPX5iQ

This system does not work for my 32wc

[J. DIEGO]

In this video all working!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLLdlNGysfk

[AmmoMike83]

In this video all working!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLLdlNGysfk

Ahhh. now I understand :D

[J. DIEGO]

Hard to say without a datasheet.

Mike, if you create a file drop_tube of width 16mm to adapt it to my star lube
I can use the end of career of dillon and say if it works or not!
I have one of these original career ends on hand.

[J. DIEGO]

Ahhh. now I understand :D
: muyconfu : razz:

[AmmoMike83]

Mike, if you create a file drop_tube of width 16mm to adapt it to my star lube
I can use the end of career of dillon and say if it works or not!
I have one of these original career ends on hand.

With the big switch? Will do it tomorrow. Have to take care for my kids now.

[J. DIEGO]

With the big switch? Will do it tomorrow. Have to take care for my kids now.

No hurry, mate
The family is first!!

[AmmoMike83]

Mike, if you create a file drop_tube of width 16mm to adapt it to my star lube
I can use the end of career of dillon and say if it works or not!
I have one of these original career ends on hand.

uploaded.

[J. DIEGO]

Thanks friend
I'm going to look for it, I'll comment that it's gone

[J. DIEGO]

It’s not infrared. It’s visible light.


https://www.ebay.es/itm/KEMO-B045-Bausatz-12V-Lichtschranke-Sensor/131773404722?hash=item1eae4e9632:g:ZwoAAOSw3wVafYl X

[AmmoMike83]

https://www.ebay.es/itm/KEMO-B045-Bausatz-12V-Lichtschranke-Sensor/131773404722?hash=item1eae4e9632:g:ZwoAAOSw3wVafYl X

217283

[J. DIEGO]

Well I've already done the test and it does not work with this dillon switch either!
I'm going to put an infrared in its place, I already have one mounted that way.

[J. DIEGO]

I have located this end of the race, it looks good!
https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=480-2395-nd

Technical data;
The V7 switch is available as a pin plunger style or with optional integral or auxiliary levers to actuate the switch and
offer versatility in the application. The switch requires as little as 0,15 Newtons [approximately ½ ounce] to operate
for extremely sensitive applications or an operating force of almost 4 Newtons [14 ounces] where higher forces are
required. The V7 switch can reliably control logic level electrical loads from less than 0.1 A to power duty switching up
to 25 A. Agency certifications for the MICRO SWITCH™ V7 switches are provided through CSA, ENEC, and UL for
global use around the world.

[Mark2215]

Got home from work this morning and my new tall collator was done!! :drinks: Got it installed and running in no time. I didn't have to drill out any of the holes this time. One slight problem, the plug for the drop hole is not the right size. I put some tape around it and it's good enough.

Thanks again Mike!

217328 217329

[Mark2215]

I have located this end of the race, it looks good!
https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=480-2395-nd

Technical data;
The V7 switch is available as a pin plunger style or with optional integral or auxiliary levers to actuate the switch and
offer versatility in the application. The switch requires as little as 0,15 Newtons [approximately ½ ounce] to operate
for extremely sensitive applications or an operating force of almost 4 Newtons [14 ounces] where higher forces are
required. The V7 switch can reliably control logic level electrical loads from less than 0.1 A to power duty switching up
to 25 A. Agency certifications for the MICRO SWITCH™ V7 switches are provided through CSA, ENEC, and UL for
global use around the world.

I used these switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NSRHK3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did drill out the rivet, open up the switch and tweak the spring to make it lighter.

[jmorris]

Mike here is a video of it working with HB 100 gn RN.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2uG26YifGU&feature=youtu.be

Thanks for all the hard work.

[AmmoMike83]

Got home from work this morning and my new tall collator was done!! :drinks: Got it installed and running in no time. I didn't have to drill out any of the holes this time. One slight problem, the plug for the drop hole is not the right size. I put some tape around it and it's good enough.

Thanks again Mike!

217328 217329

My pleasure, Mark! Great work!

[AmmoMike83]

Mike here is a video of it working with HB 100 gn RN.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2uG26YifGU&feature=youtu.be

Thanks for all the hard work.

I thank you, for supporting the project! I added your video to the thing instructions.

[J. DIEGO]

I used these switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NSRHK3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did drill out the rivet, open up the switch and tweak the spring to make it lighter.

Try doing it with some that you buy from aliexpress without too much success
I will not try hard either, I will try again, thanks

[jmorris]

I thought That Mark’s spring housing would do the trick but it didn’t, then I even made a smaller one but bullets dropped out of the housing base down, were still getting flipped before getting to the spring. Only thing it could be is the larger area in the housing itself. So I went back to the short one I modified so the spring housing reduced that diameter and that worked. I did have these short bullets get sideways in the plate and jam against the side, so I taped a plastic “shim” between the housing walls and the plate, to take up the room.

Went through a 1000 of the little ******** after that without issue. Only 9000 more of them and I’ll go back to bullets that are not as problematic.

https://ibb.co/eWiyQS
https://ibb.co/nNA1en
https://ibb.co/kpYbC7

[rmantoo]

Guys, you are all amazing. Ammomike, 6bg6ga, Hatch, and many others... I've followed Jmorris (like a freaking mechanically inclined, stalking reloader, lol) on several forums for years...but y'all have motivated me to step WAY out of my comfort zone of drill presses, lathes, and welding.

Just ordered the Anet 3d Printer, several spools of PLA, extra extruders, auto level sensors, and a few more doodads for it.

I have 2 Dillon 1050s, a 650 and a 550 (and too many other single stage presses to count)... but only 1 Mr. Bulletfeeder. I'm SUPER excited to start this journey...and potentially, eventually, be able to make my own verson.

[Handloader109]

It is WAY fun RMANTOO! I haven't started on the collator, but it WAS my final impetus to buy a machine. BTW, get a cheap pane of glass the size of your bed and a can of the hair spray. A few spritz and I can run my bed at 30 degrees and have it stick so hard I have to almost beat parts off.

[J. DIEGO]

Hello
I'm stubborn in a slightly wider design of this great project.
I'm playing with the Ideamaker program to redemension is fun
the only bad thing is that values that are not interesting are altered.
The holes of the plate and all the others are enlarged.
I thought maybe the whole thing could be made bigger, I think that
It's much better than making the wall taller. It's just an idea.
I hope I have not bothered your author with this message.
How can I upload the files here?
regards

[MaryB]

When working in CAD type programs you can usually select just the one thing to change, like select just the outside diameter circle and not the entire part... if that makes any sense... I often have a hard time translating what I can do on a PC into verbal instructions!

[Tazza]

I know what you mean, you can spend 20 minutes explaining something that takes seconds to do in person :)

[AmmoMike83]

Hello
I'm stubborn in a slightly wider design of this great project.
I'm playing with the Ideamaker program to redemension is fun
the only bad thing is that values that are not interesting are altered.
The holes of the plate and all the others are enlarged.
I thought maybe the whole thing could be made bigger, I think that
It's much better than making the wall taller. It's just an idea.
I hope I have not bothered your author with this message.
How can I upload the files here?
regards

openBulletFeeder - complete and fully customizable Bullet feeder by AmmoMike83 is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives license.

It's designed in openSCAD. I can change base width and wall height dynamically with one click.

[J. DIEGO]

openBulletFeeder - complete and fully customizable Bullet feeder by AmmoMike83 is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives license.

It's designed in openSCAD. I can change base width and wall height dynamically with one click.

I have no doubt that you can change those parameters in a few seconds
What I pretend is that it is bigger base and I do not say that it is not perfect
just like this one, only that I would like it to be bigger in my view.
I do not `pretend to bother you Mike with my ideas, they're just personal!
regards
Diego

[jmorris]

I know what you mean, you can spend 20 minutes explaining something that takes seconds to do in person

Agree, a photo is worth 1000 words a video around 10,000.

[AmmoMike83]

I have no doubt that you can change those parameters in a few seconds
What I pretend is that it is bigger base and I do not say that it is not perfect
just like this one, only that I would like it to be bigger in my view.
I do not `pretend to bother you Mike with my ideas, they're just personal!
regards
Diego

Send me an PM with motor type, base width, wall height, and email address.

[J. DIEGO]

Many thanks Mike Pm for you

[shibbykins]

This thread sent me over the edge and I bought a printer and some of the upgrade stuff from the other thread. I cant wait to get the ball rolling and join yall on the shenanigans.

[HATCH]

what printer did you buy?

[shibbykins]

what printer did you buy?

I went with a Anet A8 type unit. Figured its cheap enough to get my feet wet and see if its really something I want to mess around with long term.

[AmmoMike83]

This thread sent me over the edge and I bought a printer and some of the upgrade stuff from the other thread. I cant wait to get the ball rolling and join yall on the shenanigans.

Great idea!! ;) welcome to the DIY world!

[Nietzsche]

Hi, I would like to warm thanks especially AmmoMike83 for the great project and the invaluable support and all of you for the kindly helpfulness.

Might be interesting to share what kind of DC motors we're using and what dies?

RM: XL650
DC: MBF
DIES: Bronze Homebuilt (not by me)

Thanks
Alessandro

[jmorris]

I used this one.

https://www.doublealpha.biz/mr-bulletfeeder-motor

It is dimensionally the same as the Dayton 2L007 and the other 2L00x series motors, just about half price and already pinned on the shaft.

Depends on what main body you print though, he has created several for different motors.

[AmmoMike83]

RM: Hornady LNL AP
DC: MBF (ET-ZGMP38)
DIES: RCBS

New bases and spring housings online.

Have fun, guys!

[InfringedNSocal]

Hello Gents ...

First off - Thanks - many of them - to AmmoMike for graciously uploading all this work to thingi !!! And to all those gents here doing their utmost to help out everyone. Im new here - but been around. Running a Zaribo modded Prusa i3 Mk3 style 3D printer with a Duet Wifi controller. Just learning Fusion360. Have a Dillon 650 - sporadically loading for a couple of years [ .223 / 5.56 / .45ACP / .300BLK ] Got the load because the clownshow that is CA and ammo is at times - dire.

Scrolled thru and read almost 100% of these 22+ pages of posts. Still didnt find it. Is there some form of a build guide to advise how to best combine all the different .stl options for the motors etc ? Id like to run a Nema17 stepper and control it with a PWM knob or similar.

Been reading thru all the printing suggestions and 80% infil ? For real ? Strength mainly comes from Perimeter walls and top and bottom layers - and a wise choice of infill % ... above 35% infill on the flat caliber base plates, Im not sure youre getting any needed added strength. Run a little warmer nozzle temps increase the overlap % a tad and increase your perimeters and top and bottom layers in your slicer. Im not sure about the print accuracy of the Anet 8 - but a well calibrated machine should print anything in this large pool of possible stl's with fine accuracy at .20 and .25 layer height. AND cut down on print times dramatically.

If youre not getting decent accuracy out of .25 or .20 layer heights for these parts - Id suggest perhaps spending some time with some in depth extruder calibration - and some tests to make sure your motors and controllers are stepping properly. My $.02 [ USD ;-) ] fwiw.


If anyone can help a brother out on the correlation of all this maze of updated stls and which motor options and then assembly - Id be greatful. I would gladly trade some printer help / expertise - and or print you some parts if youre in a bind or just need some print capacity.

P.S. - who knows the best matching filament colors / brands to the Dillon Blue? I picked up some Hatchbox Blue PLA nd it prints rather dreamy - i love it - but the color is OFF from the Dillon Blue.

P.S.S. - Who is this Tony I read about and Id like to apparently avoid his input on making these feeders and his printing recommendations :-)

[AmmoMike83]

Hello Gents ...

First off - Thanks - many of them - to AmmoMike for graciously uploading all this work to thingi !!! And to all those gents here doing their utmost to help out everyone. Im new here - but been around. Running a Zaribo modded Prusa i3 Mk3 style 3D printer with a Duet Wifi controller. Just learning Fusion360. Have a Dillon 650 - sporadically loading for a couple of years [ .223 / 5.56 / .45ACP / .300BLK ] Got the load because the clownshow that is CA and ammo is at times - dire.

Scrolled thru and read almost 100% of these 22+ pages of posts. Still didnt find it. Is there some form of a build guide to advise how to best combine all the different .stl options for the motors etc ? Id like to run a Nema17 stepper and control it with a PWM knob or similar.

Been reading thru all the printing suggestions and 80% infil ? For real ? Strength mainly comes from Perimeter walls and top and bottom layers - and a wise choice of infill % ... above 35% infill on the flat caliber base plates, Im not sure youre getting any needed added strength. Run a little warmer nozzle temps increase the overlap % a tad and increase your perimeters and top and bottom layers in your slicer. Im not sure about the print accuracy of the Anet 8 - but a well calibrated machine should print anything in this large pool of possible stl's with fine accuracy at .20 and .25 layer height. AND cut down on print times dramatically.

If youre not getting decent accuracy out of .25 or .20 layer heights for these parts - Id suggest perhaps spending some time with some in depth extruder calibration - and some tests to make sure your motors and controllers are stepping properly. My $.02 [ USD ;-) ] fwiw.


If anyone can help a brother out on the correlation of all this maze of updated stls and which motor options and then assembly - Id be greatful. I would gladly trade some printer help / expertise - and or print you some parts if youre in a bind or just need some print capacity.

P.S. - who knows the best matching filament colors / brands to the Dillon Blue? I picked up some Hatchbox Blue PLA nd it prints rather dreamy - i love it - but the color is OFF from the Dillon Blue.

P.S.S. - Who is this Tony I read about and Id like to apparently avoid his input on making these feeders and his printing recommendations :-)

The higher infill is for cutting threads and for reason that all holes have to be redrilled. Could be difficult on lower infills, but you are right concerning stability.

WHO is tony??? [emoji3]

[InfringedNSocal]

The higher infill is for cutting threads. Could be difficult on lower infills, but you are right concerning stability.

WHO is tony??? :D

Hey there ... Thanks bud. Ok well yeah that makes perfect sense ... I havent gotten to that part yet :-)

Are there other implementations with Other Than MBF/DubbleAlpha motors with the pin thru the shaft ?

Is there a specific reason for the MBF motors - or jsut because - theyre already there .... ? Id like to avoid them 100% as well :-)

[HATCH]

Tony can’t give you advise on this forum.

[AmmoMike83]

Hey there ... Thanks bud. Ok well yeah that makes perfect sense ... I havent gotten to that part yet :-)

Are there other implementations with Other Than MBF/DubbleAlpha motors with the pin thru the shaft ?

Is there a specific reason for the MBF motors - or jsut because - theyre already there .... ? Id like to avoid them 100% as well :-)

That’s a good question. The MBF Motor (ET-ZGMP38) comes with a pinned shaft, 12V and has the right gear ratio. But it’s available outside of double alpha. There are different bases available for other motors, but you have to mill your own shaft, I think.

[InfringedNSocal]

Tony can’t give you advise on this forum.

Good to know ;-) TY

[InfringedNSocal]

That’s a good question. The MBF Motor (ET-ZGMP38) comes with a pinned shaft, 12V and has the right gear ratio. But it’s available outside of double alpha. There are different bases available for other motors, but you have to mill your own shaft, I think.

Looking at the JGY-370 12V - see some specs on Amazon and im converting Kg/cm torque to m familiar oz/in specs and ummm - wow - do these little bullet collators really need 1.5kg/cm or 135 oz/in of torque to rotate bullets around? Also what type of rpms do we need to be looking at?

[J. DIEGO]

Looking at the JGY-370 12V - see some specs on Amazon and im converting Kg/cm torque to m familiar oz/in specs and ummm - wow - do these little bullet collators really need 1.5kg/cm or 135 oz/in of torque to rotate bullets around? Also what type of rpms do we need to be looking at?


I have three of these jgy370 engines and they work perfect
I have 2 with 5 rpm and one with 3rpm.
I have welded a 3mm sheet to fit the dishes.

[InfringedNSocal]

I have three of these jgy370 engines and they work perfect
I have 2 with 5 rpm and one with 3rpm.
I have welded a 3mm sheet to fit the dishes.

Thx J Diego ... I will look into those motors further - been trying to think of an alternative solution to the drilling of the motor shaft and adding a PIN.

Anyone put a gear on it - like a pinion gear and used the gear to mesh with the plate to make it rotate ?

[HATCH]

Entirely Crimson sold a DIY collator kit that used CNC machined plastic.
You had to assemble it yourself.
It used the 370 motors. The RPM was 8 I am pretty sure.
You can use a PWM speed controller to slow it down.

[InfringedNSocal]

How are you guys not using the MBF motor - adapting the shaft to work with the plates ?

Besids welding stainless to the shaft [ i dont weld ]

[InfringedNSocal]

Just read on thingiverse comments where MBF guy listed patents and essentially launched not so veiled threats at AmmoMike... frankly Id rather not send the SOB a **** penny for anything, I feel like thats trying to enforce a patent on "automating ammo loading and reloading". So looking for alternatives to design of a "pinned shaft" Which is not a huge dal really - its just a pain to redraw the shell plates for the gear.

Not wanting to reinvent the wheel ...

[Handloader109]

I haven't found a Dillon blue yet either, century Blue isn't it.... Nice dark blue though. I've got to start collecting pieces, motor is one of those. I've no issue drilling shaft. Just one more thing to do. I'm guessing way easier than creating a gear and either adding match on plate or programming it into the bottom... That actually might work pretty good.

Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

[InfringedNSocal]

I haven't found a Dillon blue yet either, century Blue isn't it.... Nice dark blue though. I've got to start collecting pieces, motor is one of those. I've no issue drilling shaft. Just one more thing to do. I'm guessing way easier than creating a gear and either adding match on plate or programming it into the bottom... That actually might work pretty good.

Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

Thanks bud ... Im toying around with some stl - might come up with something. Just concerned about torque atm ... Let me know if you need parts - not sure if by your post you meant you needed help with the printed stuff or ... ?

anyhow - all the best- thx!

[Handloader109]

Thanks bud ... Im toying around with some stl - might come up with something. Just concerned about torque atm ... Let me know if you need parts - not sure if by your post you meant you needed help with the printed stuff or ... ?

anyhow - all the best- thx!No, just obtuse sometimes.... I've got my printer working pretty well, it's giving me straight sides, the right height and dimensions are correct. After putting h on a good layer fan I can even make round holes without distortion and span decent gaps.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[InfringedNSocal]

No, just obtuse sometimes.... I've got my printer working pretty well, it's giving me straight sides, the right height and dimensions are correct. After putting h on a good layer fan I can even make round holes without distortion and span decent gaps.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Ha ... all good sir ... Im just over here in CA makin some Porn - 1st layer porn that is ;-) PEI sheet and bed are bit long in the tooth - buildtac update and removeable flx steel plates go on real soon ... 10 hrs ta go - fingers crossed.

218329

218326

218328

[InfringedNSocal]

First one is in the bag ... or off the bed - whatever ... 9hrs ...

218365

218366

[InfringedNSocal]

Ok - so that didnt quite go as planned ... What say ye ...

218422

.25 layer height
120 mm/s print speed [ too fast i know ]
215 C - Nozz [ might be a bit too hot for this PLA ] [[ I might try some eSun PLA Pro + also ]]
65 C bed
.5 Nozzle
.55 Line width
8 perimiters
8 top layers
8 bottom layers

Anyone else had an issue at this part of the part ? Looks like a bit of added geometry to the exterior around a few key places might help.

The plastic seems as if it really wants to warp "out" right there.

Part was fine till I gave it a little tug

[AmmoMike83]

Ok - so that didnt quite go as planned ... What say ye ...

218422

.25 layer height
120 mm/s print speed [ too fast i know ]
215 C - Nozz [ might be a bit too hot for this PLA ] [[ I might try some eSun PLA Pro + also ]]
65 C bed
.5 Nozzle
.55 Line width
8 perimiters
8 top layers
8 bottom layers

Anyone else had an issue at this part of the part ? Looks like a bit of added geometry to the exterior around a few key places might help.

The plastic seems as if it really wants to warp "out" right there.

Part was fine till I gave it a little tug

Underextrusion? It’s an old design btw. Upgrade your STL file.

[InfringedNSocal]

Underextrusion? It’s an old design btw. Upgrade your STL file.

Thought maybe that as well - but the rest of the print is pretty epic. Like the new design btw - I think my DL off thingi was about 30 days or so ago ...

You feel like that cut away of material creates less tendency for the material to want to pull out / warp a it cools down ?

[J. DIEGO]

Looking at the JGY-370 12V - see some specs on Amazon and im converting Kg/cm torque to m familiar oz/in specs and ummm - wow - do these little bullet collators really need 1.5kg/cm or 135 oz/in of torque to rotate bullets around? Also what type of rpms do we need to be looking at?


Thx J Diego ... I will look into those motors further - been trying to think of an alternative solution to the drilling of the motor shaft and adding a PIN.

Anyone put a gear on it - like a pinion gear and used the gear to mesh with the plate to make it rotate ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=funKxaBpk7o&t=6s

[InfringedNSocal]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=funKxaBpk7o&t=6s

Nice link mate - thx ... I just found in the linked additional parts and remixes off thingiverse - a guy made a template to drill the hole in the motor shafts - I may elect that option. Still investigating.

**** now I want to reprint - the new stl that AmmoMike advised - but now Im not sure I have enough of that blue and I dont want to re order it as its not the right Dillon blue. Meh - off to Amazon prime or MicroCenter ...

[J. DIEGO]

No companion I'll stick with the companion of Mike It is more versatile!
Best regards

[InfringedNSocal]

Took a trip to Microcenter ... Had been hearing good things about their Inland PLA's ... prints nice and good prices - so I decided to give it a go. Their blue is MUCH closer to Dillon Blue fyi 0 than I have come across in person. Im printing extrusion calibration cubes and such atm for this filament. Will report back if the color post printing is better match and how she goes ...

Anyone using their stuff for any of this ?

[shibbykins]

Spent yesterday printing calibration cubes and other random stuff to get a feel for the printer as it sits now. The collator bottom plate/main body whatever its called is 12% completed. Gonna take about 40 hrs according to Cura. I slowed the print and movement speed down a tad.

218534

[shibbykins]

well scratch that. Had tape lift and a jammed nozzle. Time to make some changes.

[Handloader109]

OK, which die are you guys using for this? Sounds like most are trying to keep from buying Mr. Bs, so what else will work?

[InfringedNSocal]

well scratch that. Had tape lift and a jammed nozzle. Time to make some changes.

Boooohhhh ... Sorry man thats a bummer! Ive never printed on tape before.

What material are you printing ?

Have you tried PEI sheets to print on - im loving them. Looking forward to trying out the BuildTac FlexPlate System - just need to yank this PEI sheet off and glue the magnetic surface plate down to the heatbed. I have a few of the BuildTac flex sheets ... buildtac on one side - PEI on the other and I will have one that will have PrintBite and PEI on opposing sides.

[InfringedNSocal]

Gave up on the Inland PLA for now - blue wasnt close enough match to Dillon Blue make it worth the headache... I couldnt get it to stick first layer across the whole bed - it was just too fussy ... Tried a lot of calibrations - and they seemed to work good - but I couldnt get it to work across the entire bed for 1st layer smackdown. Hatchbox just worked 1st go ...


218616


Back to the Hatchbox PLA - printing real nice just hope I have enough.

This is the new design .stl

218615

218617

[Handloader109]

I'm posting here, couldn't decide which thread, but as this isn't machine specific, I thought it would be best here. Caviot, I've limited experience, and might be missing a setup point, but I'm using Repetier-host to connect USB to my printer. Inside it can use various slicers. Cura was the default and works pretty well. SLIC3R is another option. I've tried several prints with SLIC3R and have never gotten a really nice print. Even with fine settings, there are all sorts of strings bleeds and poor handling of bridging. Yep, I've got a layer fan and Cura bridges just fine as long as I don't speed too fast. I did two back to back and using 0.3 and 10% fill, the Cura was decent, the SLIC3R even taking twice as long, looked like garbage. So if you are having issues and using SLIC3R, try a different slicer.

Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

[InfringedNSocal]

I'm posting here, couldn't decide which thread, but as this isn't machine specific, I thought it would be best here. Caviot, I've limited experience, and might be missing a setup point, but I'm using Repetier-host to connect USB to my printer. Inside it can use various slicers. Cura was the default and works pretty well. SLIC3R is another option. I've tried several prints with SLIC3R and have never gotten a really nice print. Even with fine settings, there are all sorts of strings bleeds and poor handling of bridging. Yep, I've got a layer fan and Cura bridges just fine as long as I don't speed too fast. I did two back to back and using 0.3 and 10% fill, the Cura was decent, the SLIC3R even taking twice as long, looked like garbage. So if you are having issues and using SLIC3R, try a different slicer.

Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

r u using Inland PLA filament ? Thx for the heads up - Ive used Cura. Its pretty nice but it doesnt play well with my PC ... either of them - it smashes my video drivers and crashes on layer by layer preview - which I like ot use alot.

This issues is not Slic3r - as i merely just dropped the hatchbox spool on the hook and and re sliced - with the working profile I have for Hatchbox PLA and it worked first go.

I struggled with Slic3r ... the main fork - but the Prusa Edition has been rockin for me across a handfull of filaments Slic3r PE [ prusa edition ] works great for prusa i3 clones too which mine essentially is.

.3 layer height ? Good to know - may give that a whirl - contrary to some of the early posts I read in this thread ... smaller / higher resolution layer heights do not always equate to better strength ... typical rule of thumb - taller layer height like .3 would have better layer bonding and strength - just not as much resolution and details as .1 or .15

Im getting 8.5 hrs print time at .25 layer heights with Slic3r PE

[Handloader109]

r u using Inland PLA filament ? Thx for the heads up - Ive used Cura. Its pretty nice but it doesnt play well with my PC ... either of them - it smashes my video drivers and crashes on layer by layer preview - which I like ot use alot.

This issues is not Slic3r - as i merely just dropped the hatchbox spool on the hook and and re sliced - with the working profile I have for Hatchbox PLA and it worked first go.

I struggled with Slic3r ... the main fork - but the Prusa Edition has been rockin for me across a handfull of filaments Slic3r PE [ prusa edition ] works great for prusa i3 clones too which mine essentially is.

.3 layer height ? Good to know - may give that a whirl - contrary to some of the early posts I read in this thread ... smaller / higher resolution layer heights do not always equate to better strength ... typical rule of thumb - taller layer height like .3 would have better layer bonding and strength - just not as much resolution and details as .1 or .15

Im getting 8.5 hrs print time at .25 layer heights with Slic3r PEI've used several brands but not inland. Material that came with machine was pretty bad, no clogging but not great prints. Using cheap century off ebay works OK, solutech off Amazon has been really good. I've got a couple of rolls coming from maker geek, supposedly good, but customer service and shipping is terrible. Stock is not real time. This is pretty bad in this day...

Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

[jmorris]

Gave up on the Inland PLA for now - blue wasnt close enough match to Dillon Blue make it worth the headache... I couldnt get it to stick first layer across the whole bed - it was just too fussy ... Tried a lot of calibrations - and they seemed to work good - but I couldnt get it to work across the entire bed for 1st layer smackdown. Hatchbox just worked 1st go ...

I would be interested in how that one works. What is that, 20% infill?

[InfringedNSocal]

I would be interested in how that one works. What is that, 20% infill?

.25 layer height
5 Perimeters
5 Bottom Layers - rectilinear
6 Top Layers - rectilinear
25% Infill - Grid pattern
215 C / 65 Bed
80 mm/s w/ exterior perims @ 50%
Top Layer @ 40 mm/s
infil @ 80 mm/s

[InfringedNSocal]

AmmoMike ...

Thanks man ... this new model is printing really nice - I really like the modified design. That chamfer on the bottom perimeter is sweet too.

218641

Cant seem to get that lettering tho' ... You guys getting that nice and clean ?

Might be cool to make it easier to get good clean lettering - perhaps change font / size ?

[InfringedNSocal]

Finished - 9 hrs 31 minutes ... Plenty of filament left for a few other key parts too - woot woot

[AmmoMike83]

AmmoMike ...

Thanks man ... this new model is printing really nice - I really like the modified design. That chamfer on the bottom perimeter is sweet too.

218641

Cant seem to get that lettering tho' ... You guys getting that nice and clean ?

Might be cool to make it easier to get good clean lettering - perhaps change font / size ?

These letters? :)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180418/5fece3478c1a24d3133f3d39d429f491.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180418/260cc0dcb970817252797b8838075467.jpg

[InfringedNSocal]

These letters? :)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180418/5fece3478c1a24d3133f3d39d429f491.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180418/260cc0dcb970817252797b8838075467.jpg

Ummm ... yeah them - LOL :razz: ... Showoff - LOL

What are your settings and materials ? Thats a gorgeous lookin print sir ...

[AmmoMike83]

Ummm ... yeah them - LOL :razz: ... Showoff - LOL

What are your settings and materials ? Thats a gorgeous lookin print sir ...

218681

Material is "Ultimaker Black PLA"

[Handloader109]

Boooohhhh ... Sorry man thats a bummer! Ive never printed on tape before.

What material are you printing ?

Have you tried PEI sheets to print on - im loving them. Looking forward to trying out the BuildTac FlexPlate System - just need to yank this PEI sheet off and glue the magnetic surface plate down to the heatbed. I have a few of the BuildTac flex sheets ... buildtac on one side - PEI on the other and I will have one that will have PrintBite and PEI on opposing sides.Well, after printing a pile of stuff successfully, I started the 9mm plate. Two tries and two lifts after 3 layers....just before getting to infill. Ok, added 10mm brimmmmm. And trying again.

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[AmmoMike83]

Well, after printing a pile of stuff successfully, I started the 9mm plate. Two tries and two lifts after 3 layers....just before getting to infill. Ok, added 10mm brimmmmm. And trying again.

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Material? Bed type? bed temp?

[Handloader109]

Material? Bed type? bed temp?Glass just cleaned, heated, and hair spray. Light coat, little more second time, more for third. Solutech pla. 205 nozzle, bed 45 degrees. Yep, I have had zero lift running as low as 30. And two and 6 inch high parts. Finishing second layer now. Brim filled in center hole dang it, but nothing is moving yet. I've used half a spool of their black and about half of this spool so far. No problems..... I'm watching for a while, had glob on nozzle after first incident. I stopped 2nd.

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[AmmoMike83]

Glass just cleaned, heated, and hair spray. Light coat, little more second time, more for third. Solutech pla. 205 nozzle, bed 45 degrees. Yep, I have had zero lift running as low as 30. And two and 6 inch high parts. Finishing second layer now. Brim filled in center hole dang it, but nothing is moving yet. I've used half a spool of their black and about half of this spool so far. No problems..... I'm watching for a while, had glob on nozzle after first incident. I stopped 2nd.

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Bed is too cold. Try 60 C

[Handloader109]

Bumped up and is about a 16% done, 3mm and no issue. One thing I noticed was the two fails were NOT smooth on bottom. So I think I might have been a tad high on my bed level. I've had really smooth bottom layers and these weren't. At any rate, so far so good. I don't expect issue now. Just fun removing the brim. And got my motor (cheapened out and bought a $14 370 as I won't be using that often anyway. Not like Hatch running thru sizer. Got to decide which die to buy. RCBS, Hornady or MRB as Lee looks like it won't easily work on my 650xl. None have great reviews, but I guess that is to be expected.

[Handloader109]

Bumped up and is about a 16% done, 3mm and no issue. One thing I noticed was the two fails were NOT smooth on bottom. So I think I might have been a tad high on my bed level. I've had really smooth bottom layers and these weren't. At any rate, so far so good. I don't expect issue now. Just fun removing the brim. And got my motor (cheapened out and bought a $14 370 as I won't be using that often anyway. Not like Hatch running thru sizer. Got to decide which die to buy. RCBS, Hornady or MRB as Lee looks like it won't easily work on my 650xl. None have great reviews, but I guess that is to be expected.Amazing how 75% looks like almost 100%... 30% and three hours into it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180418/36042e5fa538ca0401a7d29f920b8caf.jpg

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[InfringedNSocal]

218681

Material is "Ultimaker Black PLA"

awesome - thanks !

[InfringedNSocal]

Bumped up and is about a 16% done, 3mm and no issue. One thing I noticed was the two fails were NOT smooth on bottom. So I think I might have been a tad high on my bed level. I've had really smooth bottom layers and these weren't. At any rate, so far so good. I don't expect issue now. Just fun removing the brim. And got my motor (cheapened out and bought a $14 370 as I won't be using that often anyway. Not like Hatch running thru sizer. Got to decide which die to buy. RCBS, Hornady or MRB as Lee looks like it won't easily work on my 650xl. None have great reviews, but I guess that is to be expected.

I might have to try a brim for the first time ever ... every one of these parts ive printed so far ... has had some edge somewhere - some small edges and one colator plate [ alot ] [ trashed ] ... So youre not alone - maybe run it a little hotter ...

[InfringedNSocal]

Please read the instructions on thingiverse ;)

Where are these instructions on thingiverse AmmoMike - Ive managed to completely miss this/them ...

[Handloader109]

7 hours 20 min. Perfect so far as I can tell. Btw, Brim pulled off so easy it was not funny. Hadn't lifted at all. Got to let cool a bit but looks good. Waiting on a pla clear to do bucket. Wanted to see how clear it is. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180419/f79212a3a7f10a3b136172a577883dbc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180419/74f0db81ea680a75ad4e75fe92b50654.jpg

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[InfringedNSocal]

Well Done Handloader ... Tip o' the ol Hat Brim .. to ya ...

[shibbykins]

Ditched the blue tape and now using glass with good ol Aqua net xtra strong hold. Running some test pieces before I go all in on the main body again. Got another spool of PLA to have on hand too.

[AmmoMike83]

Ditched the blue tape and now using glass with good ol Aqua net xtra strong hold. Running some test pieces before I go all in on the main body again. Got another spool of PLA to have on hand too.

Make sure you downloaded the last version from yesterday!

[InfringedNSocal]

Make sure you downloaded the last version from yesterday!

Ohhh man ... what changed now LOL ...

I just read about some dooodz on dillon fb group discussing their MBF motor is driving the Pin / small rod - thru the 100% infill collator plates centers if the boooolitts get a jam. Talk to me Goose.

[InfringedNSocal]

Also - been meaning to ask ... sorry to be thick. But If I just setup for .45 ACP ... will the same spring and end stop switch / trigger for the motor etc still work for 5.56 [ and other smaller diam calibers ... ] or do i need to be changing out Spring and mount under the base for the different calibers ?

[Handloader109]

Ditched the blue tape and now using glass with good ol Aqua net xtra strong hold. Running some test pieces before I go all in on the main body again. Got another spool of PLA to have on hand too.

With most of my prints, I had REALLY good hold using the above glass and spray. The collator that I just printed wouldn't come off at room temp after printing. Why I had trouble initially I still think was a slightly larger gap at level. The bottom of the collator isn't smooth as early prints and Printing today gave me smooth surface after adjusting just slightly. Go figure.
Oh, I put the plate and collator in freezer and went to bed. Pulled out this morning and they had separated in freezer. Easy trick. I've two panes, so I can swap.... Now if my rolls of material will ever show up I'll make some more of this thing.

[shibbykins]

well the base is now 23% in. I am a bit concerned about some of the screw holes, a few look like the initial layers had some issue grabbing onto the glass and thus are not as defined or reinforced as they should be... aaand my extruder fan funnel decided to pop off the **** unit at some point over the night. 218767

Instead of cancelling it, I think im gonna let it continue to print. I have a feeling I could put some sort of insert into the questionable holes. What do yall think?

[AmmoMike83]

well the base is now 23% in. I am a bit concerned about some of the screw holes, a few look like the initial layers had some issue grabbing onto the glass and thus are not as defined or reinforced as they should be... aaand my extruder fan funnel decided to pop off the **** unit at some point over the night. 218767

Instead of cancelling it, I think im gonna let it continue to print. I have a feeling I could put some sort of insert into the questionable holes. What do yall think?

Don't worry about the holes. You have to drill them anyway.

[shibbykins]

Don't worry about the holes. You have to drill them anyway.

10-4. I copied the print settings you shared yesterday or the day before and I will say the print is looking loads better than the last few I pumped out.

[InfringedNSocal]

Don't worry about the holes. You have to drill them anyway.

Yeah ... about that ...


https://youtu.be/MoAji1iq_nk


Much more tweeking needed but its a start - be nice to have the .step of the base unit to remake the 4 holes for brass inserts / M3 threads. Reducing the stl file down to a workable set of facets kinda grinds away on the lil machines here. Also havent gotten to the point of understanding the design of the current nose cones that connect to the bullet drop springs - but just a matter of time. Noodling a method to make the different caliber spring connector nosecones - SNAP into the part that is stationary on the bottom of the baseplate [ bowl ] ....

218813

218814

218815

218816

[6bg6ga]

Yeah ... about that ...


https://youtu.be/MoAji1iq_nk


Much more tweeking needed but its a start - be nice to have the .step of the base unit to remake the 4 holes for brass inserts / M3 threads. Reducing the stl file down to a workable set of facets kinda grinds away on the lil machines here. Also havent gotten to the point of understanding the design of the current nose cones that connect to the bullet drop springs - but just a matter of time. Noodling a method to make the different caliber spring connector nosecones - SNAP into the part that is stationary on the bottom of the baseplate [ bowl ] ....

218813

218814

218815

218816

You won't need any brass inserts.

[shibbykins]

Main body fresh off the printer. This sucker was locked on the glass something fierce. 20 minutes in the freezer and it popped right off. Thanks for that tip Handloader109! I see we have several options for the spring housing, which one would be the correct housing for using the MBF springs?

218840 218841

[Handloader109]

Yep, I printed the double sided turning plate last night and put in fridge as I went to bed. Was stuck solid. Slid of this morning. BTW, you'd think a pane of glass would be fairly consistent right? wrong. I cut two pieces for my printer out of a very large broken piece we hadn't discarded and they are different enough I have to level bed when I swap. Don't forget to do that when you take off anyway.

And I think I should give you guys a heads up. Don't know who you are buying filament from. But AVOID Maker Geeks like the plague! I was wanting to try them as they are only a couple of hours from me in Springfield, MO and all US made. A very large variety of PLA and PETG. Several different qualities/grades and bunches of color. But ZERO stock I guess. The internet stock is NOT actual. Ordered a couple of rolls on April 1st and still haven't seen the first roll, or tracking number. This is after three different Customer service discussions and guarantees that yes, this is in stock and will ship tomorrow. Buyer beware.....

Oh, and they charged me for order up front......