Making that Bullet Collator

[JStuhlmiller]

Yes, the hex should be fully seated on the motor shaft.

Tyler, any thoughts on a brass sorter? something that can sort .380, 9, 40, .45 would be ideal.

[MTRedeye]

Gents, first time poster, but began this journey over the summer...I got into 3d printing because of AM's feeder and had built one way back when...worked ok but mostly shot cast so I just kinda let it sit off to the side...then I ran across this feed over the summer and all I can say is WOW! I decided to start "over" with this project but was luckly to be able to reuse a lot of the parts from my first build. It got me so excited it "made" me purchase another 3d printer! Had an original ender 3 and now have the ender5s1...wow cut my print times in half and made me learn Klipper which is amazing! Anyway...

My main goals were bullet sizing and bulge busting on the APP and bullet feeding on the 650...I am so pleased with the improvements and have been going gang busters since I got it finished. It was a little time-consuming reading through every post and taking notes on the important stuff but it was a time passer during boring Zoom meetings!

My question is on the APP parts...first is if I recall Tyler that is your design but there are no editable files available correct like the collator? I have successfully ran 100's each of 9mm, .38, 45acp, 45 colt and 30-06 rounds both sizing through the APP and loading with the Dillon, and now that this has made that process so much faster and easier I want to expand to my rifle bullets to 45-70 for nose down sizing...issue I have and fully admit may have missed it in the git...is nothing for a slider or insert for the 45-70.
the APP_DROP_TUBE
The second question is using the lee tubes from the universal kit, using the medium tubes for 9mm, 38, and 30-06, I was able to make something work using APP_DROP_TUBE_#2 adaptor on the top to Drop Tube and using the APP_Drop_Tube_APP_Insert_Medium to connect to the Bullet insert...not sure if that was the plan or if I am missing something there as well...it works just doesnt look right since the tube is going inside of the APP_Insert_Medium. Not sure if that's clear as mud!

But great job with this overall and have seen a lot of new people to 3d Printing which is great and know it has been said many times but the most important advice is spend the time doing TT's calibration if using Marlin, or follow the Klipper guide if using klipper...it makes a world of difference when your parts go together without having to sand and fit!

[TylerR]

Gents, first time poster, but began this journey over the summer...I got into 3d printing because of AM's feeder and had built one way back when...worked ok but mostly shot cast so I just kinda let it sit off to the side...then I ran across this feed over the summer and all I can say is WOW! I decided to start "over" with this project but was luckly to be able to reuse a lot of the parts from my first build. It got me so excited it "made" me purchase another 3d printer! Had an original ender 3 and now have the ender5s1...wow cut my print times in half and made me learn Klipper which is amazing! Anyway...

My main goals were bullet sizing and bulge busting on the APP and bullet feeding on the 650...I am so pleased with the improvements and have been going gang busters since I got it finished. It was a little time-consuming reading through every post and taking notes on the important stuff but it was a time passer during boring Zoom meetings!

My question is on the APP parts...first is if I recall Tyler that is your design but there are no editable files available correct like the collator? I have successfully ran 100's each of 9mm, .38, 45acp, 45 colt and 30-06 rounds both sizing through the APP and loading with the Dillon, and now that this has made that process so much faster and easier I want to expand to my rifle bullets to 45-70 for nose down sizing...issue I have and fully admit may have missed it in the git...is nothing for a slider or insert for the 45-70.
the APP_DROP_TUBE
The second question is using the lee tubes from the universal kit, using the medium tubes for 9mm, 38, and 30-06, I was able to make something work using APP_DROP_TUBE_#2 adaptor on the top to Drop Tube and using the APP_Drop_Tube_APP_Insert_Medium to connect to the Bullet insert...not sure if that was the plan or if I am missing something there as well...it works just doesnt look right since the tube is going inside of the APP_Insert_Medium. Not sure if that's clear as mud!

But great job with this overall and have seen a lot of new people to 3d Printing which is great and know it has been said many times but the most important advice is spend the time doing TT's calibration if using Marlin, or follow the Klipper guide if using klipper...it makes a world of difference when your parts go together without having to sand and fit!

I can create a 45/70 bullet slide for you. I would modify the 45 slide. What height do you want it at?

Yes, what you described sounds correct to me.

[DekM]

Thanks Tyler...I don't know what I am doing wrong but when I open the Parts Generator under the tab Project Location, I get the message "The project folder was not found. Place the .jar file in the project folder or press the Change button to select the project location"

Do you or anyone else know what I am doing wrong?

Cheers
DekM

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler...I don't know what I am doing wrong but when I open the Parts Generator under the tab Project Location, I get the message "The project folder was not found. Place the .jar file in the project folder or press the Change button to select the project location"

Do you or anyone else know what I am doing wrong?

Cheers
DekM

Is the jar sitting in the same folder as all the other project files, or was it moved? Also, did you extract all the files from the zip file, or are you opening up the zip file directly in windows explorer?

[DekM]

Thanks for the reply,TylerR.

I'll check and have another go on the weekend, busy week this one.

Cheers,
DekM

[MTRedeye]

I can create a 45/70 bullet slide for you. I would modify the 45 slide. What height do you want it at?

Yes, what you described sounds correct to me.

Tyler, I appreciate it, I ended up creating one similar to yours, I load a couple of different length bullets depending on the type of shoot, same thing with the 30-06 which the 308 slide ended up being too short for those bullets. I also decided to eliminate the hook and just use a M3 nut and bolt with a through hole...the only way I can successfully print those hooks is on my slower Ender 3, the Ender5S1 is so fast it ends up breaking it off half way through the print. I also size 7 different calibers so they are getting changed a lot and was concerned the ones I did print will end up breaking off when I am in rush for a match (murphy's law!)...happy to share, don't want to take away from anything you have done.

[Caster3845]

Is there a BND slide plate that will work with a H&G 130 cast bullet with out having to do a lot of modifying to another plate? I have been trying to make this work for 3 or 4 days to get the bullets to feed into my Star Sizer. I think that the problem is that the bullet is so short. I'm getting really frustrated. The feeder itself will feed nose up perfectly.

[TylerR]

Is there a BND slide plate that will work with a H&G 130 cast bullet with out having to do a lot of modifying to another plate? I have been trying to make this work for 3 or 4 days to get the bullets to feed into my Star Sizer. I think that the problem is that the bullet is so short. I'm getting really frustrated. The feeder itself will feed nose up perfectly.

If you post a video of the problem I will try to help you.

[Caster3845]

If you post a video of the problem I will try to help you.

The length of the H&G130 bullet is 13.4mm and standard .452.320143

[Caster3845]

Tyler,
I am not sure how to upload a video. The above pic is what I have modified so far. That is the #8 BND slide plate. As you can see I had to make the upright post thhicker to keep the bullet from falling forward into the hole and jamming the feeder. I also had to cut a groove into the plate in an attempt to catch the edge of the base so the bullet would flip nose down. If that groove is not there the bullet just drops down and catches on the high part of the plate and gets pulled out of the collator plate. Then after 5 or six, they just fall on the floor.
I started reading this thread from the beginning about a week ago. I can't believe how much information is posted here and how much work you and AmmoMike and everybody else has put into this. It is really appreciated not only by myself but by everybody else that is making use of you guys's genius.
I tried to get the hang of Fusion 360 but quickly got lost. To many things to remember at the advanced age of 73. My head doesn't work like it used to.
I went down the rabbit hole several months ago and purchased an AnkerMake 5. Sweet printer! It took just a little under 9 hours to print the main base, while I'm hearing that some of the printers are taking 30 to 40 hours to print the same thing. My standard speed is 250. When I measured the 20mm calibration cube that I printed, the only axis that was off was the Z axis and it was only off by .01 mm, so I called it good to go.

[TylerR]

Tyler,
I am not sure how to upload a video. The above pic is what I have modified so far. That is the #8 BND slide plate. As you can see I had to make the upright post thhicker to keep the bullet from falling forward into the hole and jamming the feeder. I also had to cut a groove into the plate in an attempt to catch the edge of the base so the bullet would flip nose down. If that groove is not there the bullet just drops down and catches on the high part of the plate and gets pulled out of the collator plate. Then after 5 or six, they just fall on the floor.
I started reading this thread from the beginning about a week ago. I can't believe how much information is posted here and how much work you and AmmoMike and everybody else has put into this. It is really appreciated not only by myself but by everybody else that is making use of you guys's genius.
I tried to get the hang of Fusion 360 but quickly got lost. To many things to remember at the advanced age of 73. My head doesn't work like it used to.
I went down the rabbit hole several months ago and purchased an AnkerMake 5. Sweet printer! It took just a little under 9 hours to print the main base, while I'm hearing that some of the printers are taking 30 to 40 hours to print the same thing. My standard speed is 250. When I measured the 20mm calibration cube that I printed, the only axis that was off was the Z axis and it was only off by .01 mm, so I called it good to go.

pm sent

[TylerR]

I got your videos and the issue is clear to me. not nearly enough angle on the feeder. you have to tip it back a lot more.

Also, you should start with a fresh print of the slide plate. The material that was removed is not going to allow the bullet to flip. Also, you might want to try going down a number slide plate to get more ridge for them to ride on.

Here are links to the two videos:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/w2sqitp1dh1wslvoz47ta/20231119_103745.mp4?rlkey=y14m5y1h6ilmrvgunodu7ia3 p&dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1lzl44kcxngbcypejmo0c/20231028_184843.mp4?rlkey=93660vg87bx0v4ckvtlsfd0r s&dl=0

[JStuhlmiller]

I am in need of a brass collater for a rollsizer I just ordered. I was thinking about making a Mongo collater but what would the recommendation be for motor?

[Gillie Dog]

TylerR,

I am trying to determine the difference between the Drop Hole Adapter; Angled, Angled Slide and Angled Body.

Looks like angled and angled slide are same with mounting holes such that they "point" 45 degrees to slope of collator and the angled body with its mounting holes "points" inline with slope of collator.

What is the difference between them?

Thanks

GD

[TylerR]

I am in need of a brass collater for a rollsizer I just ordered. I was thinking about making a Mongo collater but what would the recommendation be for motor?

Either 634JS or the ETZGMP38 will work.

[TylerR]

TylerR,

I am trying to determine the difference between the Drop Hole Adapter; Angled, Angled Slide and Angled Body.

Looks like angled and angled slide are same with mounting holes such that they "point" 45 degrees to slope of collator and the angled body with its mounting holes "points" inline with slope of collator.

What is the difference between them?

Thanks

GD

The hole patterns are different on the main body and on the bullet nose down slide plates, so there is one for each.

[Gillie Dog]

The hole patterns are different on the main body and on the bullet nose down slide plates, so there is one for each.

Thank you,

I have never looked at a nose down bullet slide plate to catch that.

GD

[TylerR]

Thank you,

I have never looked at a nose down bullet slide plate to catch that.

GD

The angled drop hole is nice if you are running the collator at very steep angles and you want to limit the bend on the spring. otherwise not necessary.

[Gillie Dog]

The angled drop hole is nice if you are running the collator at very steep angles and you want to limit the bend on the spring. otherwise not necessary.

Understood, printing one now even though I run not that steep on bullet collator, it will come close to making spring vertical.

Many thanks, I very much appreciate and am amazed at all you have done here.

GD

[GWS]

......I very much appreciate and am amazed at all you have done here.

GD

You and all the rest of us.......:) I wouldn't even have a 3D printer if not for TylerR's efforts here. If an old fart like me can follow his pioneering vision and direction anybody can.

[Caster3845]

I spent most of the day trying everything from shallow to steep angles and moving the plate in and out to get that H&G 130 bullet to feed nose down for the Star Sizer and it's just not going to feed. I tried a fresh print of the #8 BND slide plate and the #8BND slide plate that I modified came closest to working like it should if I kept the angle shallow(15 degrees or so). If I raised the angle much past 30 degrees , the bullets would do nothing except go around and around. I had to keep the shim on the upright post or the bullet would just fall forward into the hole and jam things up. I also tried different slide plates from #5 BND to #10 BND.
I feel like I'm missing something or doing something wrong.

[JStuhlmiller]

before I go off the rails is anyone using the mongo collater for brass?

[TylerR]

before I go off the rails is anyone using the mongo collater for brass?

Yes, I am.

[HuskJ]

Did you ever get this to work Lablover?

[GWS]

Did you ever get this to work Lablover?

Haven't heard from Lablover here since August last year........miss his posts.....hope he's well......

[TylerR]

Haven't heard from Lablover here since August last year........miss his posts.....hope he's well......

Yes, it's been a long time. Always enjoyed his posts.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
Just me that is getting an hole inner diameter of +27 mm of the Mount_Post_Base.stl, and thus getting a rather loose fit on a 25 mm pole ?

[Gillie Dog]

Dear Team !
Just me that is getting an hole inner diameter of +27 mm of the Mount_Post_Base.stl, and thus getting a rather loose fit on a 25 mm pole ?

It measures 28mm in the stl file so what you are getting looks about right. The pole I use is about 26.8MM (3/4" pipe) and seems to work fine with clamp screw just finger tight.

GD

[rogerandre]

It measures 28mm in the stl file so what you are getting looks about right. The pole I use is about 26.8MM (3/4" pipe) and seems to work fine with clamp screw just finger tight.

GD

Thanks alot. I thought that a 1" pipe (25.4 mm) was to be used. I will go figure to remove the wobble.

[TylerR]

Thanks alot. I thought that a 1" pipe (25.4 mm) was to be used. I will go figure to remove the wobble.

I am not sure why I made it 28mm, other than people were using pipes that were slightly over 1". The extra slop is removed with the set screw. I will make a new one at 26mm for the 1", and relabel the other one 28mm.
Here is the new 1"(26mm)
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Bench_Post_1inch_Round.stl

[rogerandre]

I am not sure why I made it 28mm, other than people were using pipes that were slightly over 1". The extra slop is removed with the set screw. I will make a new one at 26mm for the 1", and relabel the other one 28mm.
Here is the new 1"(26mm)
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Bench_Post_1inch_Round.stl

TylerR U R The MAN !!!!

[Gillie Dog]

Thanks alot. I thought that a 1" pipe (25.4 mm) was to be used. I will go figure to remove the wobble.

Yea, in our system pipe size refers to inside diameter so 1" pipe has a ~1.3" outside diameter (~33mm) and 3/4" pipe is ~1.05" outside diameter (~26.7mm).

We strive to make things difficult you know........

I am using a 3/4" pipe and even loose in mount see no wobble or movement issues with set screw finger tight.

Opps, saw TylerRs reply late. Will print one to test of course.

GD

[TylerR]

Yea, in our system pipe size refers to inside diameter so 1" pipe has a ~1.3" outside diameter (~33mm) and 3/4" pipe is ~1.05" outside diameter (~26.7mm).

We strive to make things difficult you know........

I am using a 3/4" pipe and even loose in mount see no wobble or movement issues with set screw finger tight.

Opps, saw TylerRs reply late. Will print one to test of course.

GD

It's funny because I have had a lot of people tell me they purchased a 1" steel pipe and it doesn't fit. But they are trying to use a 1" ID steel pipe.

[rogerandre]

It's funny because I have had a lot of people tell me they purchased a 1" steel pipe and it doesn't fit. But they are trying to use a 1" ID steel pipe.

There are many ways to skin cat ;-).

If/when time permits a Mount_Bench_Post_28mm_Round.stl for 1" (OD :-D) would be great. And Yes I need to get my act together and learn Fusion360

[TylerR]

There are many ways to skin cat ;-).

If/when time permits a Mount_Bench_Post_28mm_Round.stl for 1" (OD :-D) would be great. And Yes I need to get my act together and learn Fusion360

it's in the downloads on githhub
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Post_Base_28mm.stl

[lewis1914]

I've read this thread up to message 2041, I still have 4000+ messages to get through. Is there an assembly post that I can fast forward to?

I've printed most of the parts to make one of these and I have started assembly. I am having trouble determining what fasteners to use in which holes. I've made the determination that I use metric machine screws for most of the assembly. Where I'm having trouble is determining the size and length of the fasteners. Some of the parts, like the ramp, are threaded directly into the plastic. I think that other parts, like the mounts use through fasteners and nuts. Is this correct? Is there is fastener/part breakdown document?

Also, is the drop tube coupler that is used on the bullet nose down slide plate the same as the nose up coupler used on the base? There are special brass drop couplers...

[Gillie Dog]

Hello Group,

Can anyone make a spring recommendation for use with the #14 spring adapter and spring adapter DT? This is the last part I need to complete case feeding the six pistol calibers I do, need to do 44 mag cases and all other needed parts are made and work well.

I am currenting looking at the 5/8 OD, .047 wire one from McMaster Carr, should work but dimensionally is a tad small.

Thanks

GD

[ranger391xt]

Hello Group,

Can anyone make a spring recommendation for use with the #14 spring adapter and spring adapter DT? This is the last part I need to complete case feeding the six pistol calibers I do, need to do 44 mag cases and all other needed parts are made and work well.

I am currenting looking at the 5/8 OD, .047 wire one from McMaster Carr, should work but dimensionally is a tad small.

Thanks

GD

I used brakeline protector I purchased from Amazon, which handles 45 ACP cases just fine. Might not work on 44 mag tho, since the rim diameter is 0.514".

The Stop Shop Stainless Brake Line Protector (Gravel Guard Spring) for 1/2" Tube - 16 Ft. https://a.co/d/5EyZgTc

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[rogerandre]

it's in the downloads on githhub
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Post_Base_28mm.stl

Hi TylerR
Thanks ! So https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Bench_Post_1inch_Round.stl is with DI ~26 mm for pipe DO 25mm and not pipe with DO ~28 mm ?

[lewis1914]

Hello Group,

Can anyone make a spring recommendation for use with the #14 spring adapter and spring adapter DT? This is the last part I need to complete case feeding the six pistol calibers I do, need to do 44 mag cases and all other needed parts are made and work well.

I am currenting looking at the 5/8 OD, .047 wire one from McMaster Carr, should work but dimensionally is a tad small.

Thanks

GD

I assembled the #14 adapters with mcmaster carr spring 9664K59. I was able to get this same spring to fil into the long #13 adapter, but not the short #13. I suspect that the top and bottom models for #13 have slightly different internal profiles.

[Gillie Dog]

I used brakeline protector I purchased from Amazon, which handles 45 ACP cases just fine. Might not work on 44 mag tho, since the rim diameter is 0.514".

The Stop Shop Stainless Brake Line Protector (Gravel Guard Spring) for 1/2" Tube - 16 Ft. https://a.co/d/5EyZgTc

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Thank you,

I will check the size with them but I assume it must be in the 5/8 range. I am using smaller spring for 45 ACP with smaller adapters but will not fit the 44 mag.

Thanks

GD

[Gillie Dog]

I assembled the #14 adapters with mcmaster carr spring 9664K59. I was able to get this same spring to fil into the long #13 adapter, but not the short #13. I suspect that the top and bottom models for #13 have slightly different internal profiles.

Yes that is the one I am looking at.

Spring I have works fine with #13 but 44 will not go through it so looking at larger.

Thanks

GD

[jkimball20]

Hey all. I first want to say that this is one of the coolest things I’ve printed and built. Tyler the time and effort you’ve put into this is incredible.
I have the Hornady ap. I was using the jasond/bart (version 3 of barts) type case feeder with the lee collator and hate it. So I went down this epic rabbit hole of a powered collator and found the BF556 feeder.
I was able to integrate the drop tube with an app adapter to feed into the already installed case feeder on my press.
I have everything printed and saved the best for last, wiring.
My question is how do I integrate the jst connectors? Does anyone have any photos or diagrams that have the connectors integrated? I am using a proximity sensor.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

[TylerR]

Hello Group,

Can anyone make a spring recommendation for use with the #14 spring adapter and spring adapter DT? This is the last part I need to complete case feeding the six pistol calibers I do, need to do 44 mag cases and all other needed parts are made and work well.

I am currenting looking at the 5/8 OD, .047 wire one from McMaster Carr, should work but dimensionally is a tad small.

Thanks

GD

This is the one I use
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832617621629.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_l ist_main.20.48541802ZGpwYS&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

[Gillie Dog]

This is the one I use
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832617621629.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_l ist_main.20.48541802ZGpwYS&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

Thank you,

With that memory nudge, I now remember reading about those/that supplier somewhere in this thread.

Thanks

GD

[TylerR]

Thank you,

With that memory nudge, I now remember reading about those/that supplier somewhere in this thread.

Thanks

GD

It looks like the link does not default to the 18mm one but that is what you want.

This is the link to the other springs, which is in the manual.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832626574002.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_l ist_main.15.48541802ZGpwYS&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

[Gillie Dog]

It looks like the link does not default to the 18mm one but that is what you want.

This is the link to the other springs, which is in the manual.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832626574002.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_l ist_main.15.48541802ZGpwYS&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Thanks,

18mm OD spring for #14 spring adapters?

Thanks

GD

[GWS]

Hey all. I first want to say that this is one of the coolest things I’ve printed and built. Tyler the time and effort you’ve put into this is incredible.
I have the Hornady ap. I was using the jasond/bart (version 3 of barts) type case feeder with the lee collator and hate it. So I went down this epic rabbit hole of a powered collator and found the BF556 feeder.
I was able to integrate the drop tube with an app adapter to feed into the already installed case feeder on my press.
I have everything printed and saved the best for last, wiring.
My question is how do I integrate the jst connectors? Does anyone have any photos or diagrams that have the connectors integrated? I am using a proximity sensor.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Welcome to the forum! I was assuming someone smarter than me knew about jst connectors and what you mean by integrating them. I use a proximity sensor on all my collators, but I don't use jst connectors....never even seen one. I use a switch circuit board with a speed control, a relay, and a 12volt wall wart power supply on all my stuff, and connect them together with wire nuts inside the switch box.....and found connectors TO the box to connect to whatever mates with what's on the plug-in power supply.....

Others who know the use of jst connectors......should chime in here..:)

I use 12V female connector pig tails rated to 5amps to connect my wall warts. Most 12v wall wart power supplies I've seen with enough wattage to run collator motors use this size in my experience:

https://www.amazon.com/Pigtail-Security-Connectors-Surveillance-MILAPEAK/dp/B071VTBQNG/ref=sr_1_21?crid=2KFIQBNJFW8DR&keywords=12v+female+socket+DC+barrel+connector&qid=1701659613&sprefix=12v+female+socket+dc+barrel+connector%2Cap s%2C136&sr=8-21

[TylerR]

Thanks,

18mm OD spring for #14 spring adapters?

Thanks

GD

Oh wait no. The 18mm would be for the 16mm adapters. If memory serves me correctly the 14mm springs match up with the DAA output chute spring.
https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring

[Gillie Dog]

Oh wait no. The 18mm would be for the 16mm adapters. If memory serves me correctly the 14mm springs match up with the DAA output chute spring.
https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring

With a little massaging of the first coil the DAA output chute springs works quite well with #12 and #13 adapters but is to small OD for the #14 adapters. Also the 44 mag case does not like the DAA output chute spring very much. DAA output chute spring runs about 13mm ID and almost 15mm OD. But the 44 mag case is 13.06 nominal with a -.25mm tolerance.

Anyway I will order up something to try. Have received three good suggestions here, Aliexpress, McMaster Carr and The Stop Shop as sources, and will check dimensions and pick one.

Many thanks

GD

[Gillie Dog]

My question is how do I integrate the jst connectors? Does anyone have any photos or diagrams that have the connectors integrated? I am using a proximity sensor.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

I use the JST 3 wire connector for the prox sensor but I customized my electrical box without all the holes, just one with a grommet and strain relief.

I solder and shrink tube the wires to the prox and the wires coming out of the box.

I went to different connector for the motor and power but I am sure they would work fine. This is what I did, soldered and shrink tubed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8M44ZX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Not much, but maybe a little help, but what I do.

GD

[GWS]

I use the JST 3 wire connector for the prox sensor but I customized my electrical box without all the holes, just one with a grommet and strain relief.

I solder and shrink tube the wires to the prox and the wires coming out of the box.

I went to different connector for the motor and power but I am sure they would work fine. This is what I did, soldered and shrink tubed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8M44ZX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Not much, but maybe a little help, but what I do.

GD



That worked.;) I answered him and got your attention. Never used such fancy connections.....solder? Yes when the need arises. Inside the box wire nuts work just as well, and are fast. Yes they make wire nuts even for 18 gauge wire.

[Gillie Dog]

That worked.;) I answered him and got your attention. Never used such fancy connections.....solder? Yes when the need arises. Inside the box wire nuts work just as well, and are fast. Yes they make wire nuts even for 18 gauge wire.

Yea, you know how it goes. Solder/shrink tube connections, ferrules on stranded wires in terminals, cable ties, wire routing to prevent rats nests, etc......... My OCD won't let me use wire nuts on controls, but 120 volt residential yes............ The older I get, the worse it gets.

GD

[calgarysparky]

So after a year with my machines I've decided to do a few quality of life upgrades to make the machines just that bit better. Here is the first of them, a new designed clutch. The OG design was nice but if you needed to adjust the clutch it was a pain to remove everything from the bowl, pull the plate, and then tighten the screws. The handle tended to be a touch weak also due to the way it was printed. Now you can adjust the clutch tension from the top without having to remove anything and the handle is more robust. The other bonus is that everything prints flat and there is no need for supports. More tiny things to come but I thought this would be a good start!! You will need 2x 3mmx25mm screws ans 2x 3mm locknuts. Enjoy!!https://github.com/calgarysparky/3dprinterprojects

[GWS]

:) Ah, another divergent like me.....I knew I couldn't be the only one. My alternate state was this:

https://i.postimg.cc/W4k9ShzF/IMG-3961.jpg

More than one way to skin a cat (or print flat without supports);)

I do build one for each plate.....so I only have to adjust the clutch on the first run. I don't care to share them....only more work with every plate change. Also I only print one size that I use thick or thin.....so yes, they stick up on rifle shell plates....and I don't care a whit.

TylerR likes to be efficient in storing them. I'd rather always have them ready to drop in. Not kidding when I say "sticking up on rifle shell plates". Below:

https://i.postimg.cc/dtYPFx8C/IMG_3952.jpg

[GWS]

I downloaded your STL's so I could study what you did. Reversing the nut keeper to the bottom does have merit, for the reason you mentioned. Just have to be sure the bolt can never protrude out the bottom when tight. I like it. Can it work without variation for thick or thin plates? The #11 rifle bullet plate is 25mm high, 22mm at the clutch area.....think it's the tallest one. Rifle plates are only 8mm thick.....big difference.

[calgarysparky]

They are the exact same dimensions as the OG ones so they should work fine. At 25mm length on the bolt you souldn't be touching anywhere. The captured nuts are what make this a little easier to adjust when needed. I don't like locking up the clutch that much and actually have some grease in there to keep them from sticking. Hope you like them.

[Walnut]

First of all, thank you Tyler, I have built several collators for my Lee APP, and Dillon presses. I use the bullet down and bullet up feature, it is a great design!
I use the the "search thread" function before I posted this, so hopefully I won't waste your time. I recently got a Lee 38 cal 105gr SWC mold and been using your collators for sizing and feeding. The bullet works great in 380 auto and 9mm, but doesn't like the spring adaptor drop tube. The bullets get wedged in sideways and mucks up the works. I have found the 12mm spring adaptor drop tube has the right spring size, but the funnel is to wide. I have it tried 35 degrees to 55 degrees of tilt, but haven't been able to find the sweet spot for the bullets feed 100%
320793
I took some double stick tape and reduced the diameter from approx. 16mm to 14mm and it seems to work much better, but not 100%. 320794
Here are the bullet specs if that helps. .357" Diameter, total bullet length is 13.35mm and the bearing surface is 7.80mm
Any help or advice would be great Thanks again for everything you have done for the 3D printing community.

[Gillie Dog]

Here are the bullet specs if that helps. .357" Diameter, total bullet length is 13.35mm and the bearing surface is 7.80mm
Any help or advice would be great Thanks again for everything you have done for the 3D printing community.

I hope I am understanding correctly, and you are using #12 spring adapters and 12mm ID spring for a 38/9mm bullet, I believe you are using too large of spring adapters and spring. For that diameter bullet, nose up is all I do, I use #10 drop tube, #10 spring adapters with Double Alpha Academy output spring small (~10mm ID). I intended to test #9 spring adapters but since this is working property, have not done so.

Edited to add: just tested #9 and are to small for 38/9mm bullets

GD

[RightAngle]

Need to modify a couple APP brass inserts. Is there a quick and dirty way to make the top of the inserts accept 9/16 or 14mm tubing on 223 and 300blk?

Also any way to make 380, 44spl, and 10mm brass inserts?

Thanks for all the hard work in this thread. This project has been a fun challenge and glad to have feeders up and running!

[rogerandre]

Dear Team
Most of us are using the collator to feed our progressive presses (Dillon 650 and up), but sometimes it would be nice to be able to use the collator with singe stage presses, or like Dillon 550 by utilizing a ”manual hand pickup station/die”. So a station where bullets/brass is dropped and then picked up by hand. Anyone that have been tinkering with something like that ?

[GWS]

That's what a Lee APP is......and I agree that a collator is great used on a single stage, so I created hybrid setup to do the same on my RCBS Summit Press, back a few pages (and months) using Lee APP shuttle and of course a TylerR quick-change!;)

https://youtu.be/gyegqlNLMM8

[Walnut]

Thanks for the feedback, I went back and I tried the recommend spring adaptor. This is what I found - #10 offset and spring is too small/tight to drop reliably with the flat base bullet unless I ran the feeder pretty slow. I would get hang ups in the transition from drawtube to spring or in the first turn towards my XL750. If it had a beveled base, I bet it would work pretty good, but this Lee mold leaves a sharp 90 edge on the bullets that hangs on every tiny crack or obstruction. When I used the standard wide #10 spring adaptor, had the same problem of the bullet dropping sideways as the picture above.

The #11 has the same wide mouth as the #12 so I will get the bullets going sideways as my picture shows. I do not have an offset #11 file in my downloads, so I can't try it. The #11 spring is slightly larger than the #10, it might work, but I do not have enough to do proper testing, hence using the #12 spring adaptor and spring. I can run the bullet feeder at nearly top speed and its reliable. Spring is small enough in diameter to keep the bullet from flipping/tilting, but large enough to prevent the flat base grabbing at the spring coils. When I get several bullet stacked up in the spring, they don't lock together in my experience.

Thanks for the input, I hope someone in this thread has walked this road and has a answer. There is a tremendous amount of knowledge and experience.
JW

[rogerandre]

That's what a Lee APP is......and I agree that a collator is great used on a single stage, so I created hybrid setup to do the same on my RCBS Summit Press, back a few pages (and months) using Lee APP shuttle and of course a TylerR quick-change!;)

https://youtu.be/gyegqlNLMM8

VERY creative - Supercool !
Will take inspiration with TylerR quick-change as base

Huge thanks !

[GWS]

Need to modify a couple APP brass inserts. Is there a quick and dirty way to make the top of the inserts accept 9/16 or 14mm tubing on 223 and 300blk?

Also any way to make 380, 44spl, and 10mm brass inserts?

Thanks for all the hard work in this thread. This project has been a fun challenge and glad to have feeders up and running!

Look at the video I just posted in my last post on my RCBS APP hybrid...... You will notice that the rifle inserts I use have 9/16 tubing running directly into the top of the inserts on both. I can't remember if that's how TylerR's are done stock, or if I used a drill and drilled a 1/2 " down thru the top to make them fit. But he can tell you. Pretty simple. You can drill out any size you want, but make sure the transition at the end of the hole is smooth and tapered with no place to catch and stop a case.

[TylerR]

That's what a Lee APP is......and I agree that a collator is great used on a single stage, so I created hybrid setup to do the same on my RCBS Summit Press, back a few pages (and months) using Lee APP shuttle and of course a TylerR quick-change!;)

https://youtu.be/gyegqlNLMM8

I know I saw that video when you first posted it, but dang that is a cool design.

Are the clear tubes the same as what you get with the APP or something else? My inserts were designed around the APP clear tubes.

[GWS]

I know I saw that video when you first posted it, but dang that is a cool design.

Are the clear tubes the same as what you get with the APP or something else? My inserts were designed around the APP clear tubes.

Those in the video are 9/16" D, same as the Lee tubes that go in their universal four tube setup. So yours are probably 9/16 too. Where I've gotten confused is when I printed some .357and 9mm inserts modified for smaller tubing....but I'm wondering if that was necessary...I've slept, but am wondering if I had experienced tilting cases hanging on edges somewhere. Maybe yours for the small pistol was made for the "other" Lee tubing that's smaller so less tilting in the tubes. I just don't remember.

To RogerAndrea: For the Summit Press, I had to modify two things from normal Lee APP. First the Caliber insert Support had to be lengthened a little, and still had to add a coupler nut. Two, the spring is 1" longer, for the longer stroke, and so I had to surround it with clear tubing to prevent bending during the "push" stage.

[rogerandre]

Those in the video are 9/16" D, same as the Lee tubes that go in their universal four tube setup. So yours are probably 9/16 too. Where I've gotten confused is when I printed some .357and 9mm inserts modified for smaller tubing....but I'm wondering if that was necessary...I've slept, but am wondering if I had experienced tilting cases hanging on edges somewhere. Maybe yours for the small pistol was made for the "other" Lee tubing that's smaller so less tilting in the tubes. I just don't remember.

To RogerAndrea: For the Summit Press, I had to modify two things from normal Lee APP. First the Caliber insert Support had to be lengthened a little, and still had to add a coupler nut. Two, the spring is 1" longer, for the longer stroke, and so I had to surround it with clear tubing to prevent bending during the "push" stage.

Way cool. Where did you order the longer spring ?

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
Sometimes I feel that the JGY370 motors I have purchased (not identical to the one TylerR have linked to due to limited availability) are a little to weak.
Anyone that have fiddled with 5840-31ZY motors ? similar design (but larger footprint) with alot more torque.

[RightAngle]

I'll print a 223 adapter and give drilling it out a shot.

38 spl feeds fine from the 357 insert, so possibly 44spl will do fine with the 44mag insert (maybe 380 with 9mm too). I'll try 10mm thru a 40 adapter, but being taller may not work as well. We'll see.

My printer has started extruding poorly when printing infill now, so once I get that cleared up I'll print more adapters.

[JStuhlmiller]

what motor would you suggest for high speed pistol brass collation to a rollsizer?

[TylerR]

I'll print a 223 adapter and give drilling it out a shot.

38 spl feeds fine from the 357 insert, so possibly 44spl will do fine with the 44mag insert (maybe 380 with 9mm too). I'll try 10mm thru a 40 adapter, but being taller may not work as well. We'll see.

My printer has started extruding poorly when printing infill now, so once I get that cleared up I'll print more adapters.

I can definitely add more inserts. You said 9/16" for the .223. Are you using some kind of flexible vinyl tubing?

[GWS]

Way cool. Where did you order the longer spring ? Just went to the local ACE hardware.....back in the nut.bolts, screws dept. In stock no less.

[TylerR]

what motor would you suggest for high speed pistol brass collation to a rollsizer?

My answer is always the same for motors these days. 634JS.

[rogerandre]

My answer is always the same for motors these days. 634JS.

The 634JS for sure looks really nice - but really expensive outside of US. I need to get my skills on Fusion 360 in order so I can make a setup for 5840-31ZY motor.

[Walnut]

I don't know if it helps, I bought "Greartisan DC 12V 10RPM" off Amazon and it is currently listed in the US. If you look for "634JS" on Amazon it doesn't show up. If you look at the pictures, it shows it is a 634JS motor family. I bought it a year ago and it worked.

[RightAngle]

I can definitely add more inserts. You said 9/16" for the .223. Are you using some kind of flexible vinyl tubing?

Just using the tubing that comes with the Lee shake style collator. I believe its 9/16 or 14mm OD. The same size as the 9mm and 45 inserts.Can measure for you if needed.

44spl, 10mm, and 380 inserts would be awesome if it's not too much trouble. Thanks!!!!

[GWS]

And these are replacement tubes of the same size.....9/16"

https://leeprecision.com/case-feeder-tubes

You can search Feed Tubes on the Lee Site and find a few other sizes smaller for bullets, but these are the standard Lee case feeder tubes. I found tubes from aquarium supply sites that can telescope inside them when needed.....but its iffy with Chinese metric sizes being sold too.

Just a year or two ago clear rigid tubes were constants....sized OD in 1/16 increments 3/8 to 3/4" with 1/32 walls........which meant they nicely telescoped into each other. The all you had to do is use a brass case chamfer tool .... chamfer the inside edge of the smaller tube and bullets and cases just slid nice from one size to the smaller with no slowing down or hanging. Now it's trial and error finding what you want.

[RightAngle]

And these are replacement tubes of the same size.....9/16"

https://leeprecision.com/case-feeder-tubes

You can search Feed Tubes on the Lee Site and find a few other sizes smaller for bullets, but these are the standard Lee case feeder tubes. I found tubes from aquarium supply sites that can telescope inside them when needed.....but its iffy with Chinese metric sizes being sold too.

Just a year or two ago clear rigid tubes were constants....sized OD in 1/16 increments 3/8 to 3/4" with 1/32 walls........which meant they nicely telescoped into each other. The all you had to do is use a brass case chamfer tool .... chamfer the inside edge of the smaller tube and bullets and cases just slid nice from one size to the smaller with no slowing down or hanging. Now it's trial and error finding what you want.

No doubt, I ordered a metric tube that you suggested off amazon, and it works great. The lee 9/16 telescopes perfectly inside of it.


Got my bullet feeder all setup. I'm having quite a time getting Lee 158gr RNFP to collate 100%. Gonna take a stab at it again this evening.

[ranger391xt]

Got my bullet feeder all setup. I'm having quite a time getting Lee 158gr RNFP to collate 100%. Gonna take a stab at it again this evening.

I have had pretty good luck with the #5 slide plate for the Lee 358-158-RNFP.



Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[RightAngle]

I have had pretty good luck with the #5 slide plate for the Lee 358-158-RNFP.



Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'll give it a shot!

[Silverbullit]

In addition to RogerAndre's, Walnuts and the rest of our mates above on the 634j's...

Yeah I ordered these 634j's, after the collected cost of the item (634J 10rpm), shipping, custom, toll fees and exchange fees 1 piece of 634j is more than double the price at arrival. Not kidding (What happened with 25% VAT?)
16 motors came to 1066,66usd/10.919,68sek (I did not dare to order all of them at once, thus I ordered 8, 3 and 5 total 16 motors. Also mind the exchange rate has wobbled around a tad between orders so thats also a factor. Mightve forgot one of the shippingcosts but...)
Each motor was 682Sek/each when here, or in US currency 66,66usd/each

So 29.99usd in Amazon shop is 66,66usd @ arrival here in Sweden

Actually theres another component thats a killer on the piggybank, thats the recommended Amazon relays
I got hmm 8 or 10 of them and the Debit card withdrawal was like 230 usd so hmm thats prolly around the same markup after the mafia robbed us.. I mean customs got hold of our debit cards *lol*


But it is worth it many times around, not only is this a great project that collected my small circle of practice/competition shooting mates at a time of the year when we need some project time!
This is an awesome project and we thank you all here from TylerR/GWS/Walnut/GillieDog - to well, everyone here,
this is an amazing project that me and my clubmates (Leffe, Markus, Andreas, Håkan and yours truly) put our souls in to during the cold desolate winter of the northern swedish wilderness!
Man I cant tell you guys how much it means to have something awesome like this to fiddle with saving our sanitys snowed in here under the darkness of winter!!!
Were all building the small one (printerbed not large nouf for the next level 300,eds nor the Mongo, we have to be mongo ourselfs until we get our paws on a larger printerbed printer!)
and were doing all three iterations, I done the microswitch version and oh man it is hard to find a microswitch that has a soft nouf boner to bend under the weight of brass...
I'm on the second build, the one with the proximity sensor - this is just awesome right from last tightened screw!
Next will the led switch version lurk around the corners here

These things are so darn great I gonna put one or two on each reloading press and if I run out of presses I'll puttem on my coffemaker and sodastreamer! haha


These contraptions works a lot better than our "Ms. Bulletfeedrandomways" does so theyre getting stored in drawers as we speak.
Also these grimartefacts 634j are a lot stronger motors that works better than the ones that comes with our LNL and Dillons so were kinda oogling them wondering if it might be a grand idea to replace the original motors with these that has the power to circulate a handful of brass without sounding like a flatulent aunt jacking up a car...
These motors will come in handy in so many projects with the circuitry all layed out and all for total noobs, greenhorns and the wannabee nobs such as us :))
Also we all thinking strongly aboot the above replacing the LNL and Dillon case feeder motors with these that has some ooomph to them and not hang if you load more than 2 cases at once...


A big question, has anyone made an .stl of the Main_Body_M634JS and the wall extender as one unit? (Tweaking away the unneccessary clamps and just smoothed it over)
If so, is that .stl availible?

May the force be with you mates!!!
/Silverbullit the Swedish bullitspreader

[GWS]

Well that wasn't easy......geometry on Design Spark is really hard to get exact.....but it's as close as I can get it.....and maybe saved TylerR the grief......321094

I feel for you Swedes dealing with the damned exchange rates, international shipping from the US and the world in general is going to hell. Maybe things will get better, but I think we are heading for the same thing here. You Danites hang on (as in the tribe of Dan). We Ephraimites over here are family.....and the Jews (Judah) too. ;) Wish you all well.

[Gillie Dog]

Here is TylerRs on the collator. I never printed it because I have 300mm for cases.
It is probably 3 or 4mm shorter than attaching with the "clamps"


321096

[Gillie Dog]

Well that wasn't easy......geometry on Design Spark is really hard to get exact.....but it's as close as I can get it.....and maybe saved TylerR the grief......

TinkerCad has same problem. No snap to dimension or line or extension, no align to other object, etc., like we had in AutoCad.

GD

[Silverbullit]

GWS & Gillie Dog,

Thank you a bazillion mates!!!
If you ever get lost in the forrest at hunting and stumble out of the woods in Piteå, Sweden, I'll get some sixpacks & spicy sausages and we can sit and watch these bullet/case feeders "run like forest"!!! :drinks:

I tried trimming the wall extender and sticking it to the main body in TinkerCad, with my mindboggling skills even my optometrist asked what the hell where you doing?
The local bartender looked at my efforts and said no more beers for you mate!

So I really appreciate your skilled help mates! [smilie=p:

[TylerR]

In addition to RogerAndre's, Walnuts and the rest of our mates above on the 634j's...

Yeah I ordered these 634j's, after the collected cost of the item (634J 10rpm), shipping, custom, toll fees and exchange fees 1 piece of 634j is more than double the price at arrival. Not kidding (What happened with 25% VAT?)
16 motors came to 1066,66usd/10.919,68sek (I did not dare to order all of them at once, thus I ordered 8, 3 and 5 total 16 motors. Also mind the exchange rate has wobbled around a tad between orders so thats also a factor. Mightve forgot one of the shippingcosts but...)
Each motor was 682Sek/each when here, or in US currency 66,66usd/each

So 29.99usd in Amazon shop is 66,66usd @ arrival here in Sweden

Actually theres another component thats a killer on the piggybank, thats the recommended Amazon relays
I got hmm 8 or 10 of them and the Debit card withdrawal was like 230 usd so hmm thats prolly around the same markup after the mafia robbed us.. I mean customs got hold of our debit cards *lol*


But it is worth it many times around, not only is this a great project that collected my small circle of practice/competition shooting mates at a time of the year when we need some project time!
This is an awesome project and we thank you all here from TylerR/GWS/Walnut/GillieDog - to well, everyone here,
this is an amazing project that me and my clubmates (Leffe, Markus, Andreas, Håkan and yours truly) put our souls in to during the cold desolate winter of the northern swedish wilderness!
Man I cant tell you guys how much it means to have something awesome like this to fiddle with saving our sanitys snowed in here under the darkness of winter!!!
Were all building the small one (printerbed not large nouf for the next level 300,eds nor the Mongo, we have to be mongo ourselfs until we get our paws on a larger printerbed printer!)
and were doing all three iterations, I done the microswitch version and oh man it is hard to find a microswitch that has a soft nouf boner to bend under the weight of brass...
I'm on the second build, the one with the proximity sensor - this is just awesome right from last tightened screw!
Next will the led switch version lurk around the corners here

These things are so darn great I gonna put one or two on each reloading press and if I run out of presses I'll puttem on my coffemaker and sodastreamer! haha


These contraptions works a lot better than our "Ms. Bulletfeedrandomways" does so theyre getting stored in drawers as we speak.
Also these grimartefacts 634j are a lot stronger motors that works better than the ones that comes with our LNL and Dillons so were kinda oogling them wondering if it might be a grand idea to replace the original motors with these that has the power to circulate a handful of brass without sounding like a flatulent aunt jacking up a car...
These motors will come in handy in so many projects with the circuitry all layed out and all for total noobs, greenhorns and the wannabee nobs such as us :))
Also we all thinking strongly aboot the above replacing the LNL and Dillon case feeder motors with these that has some ooomph to them and not hang if you load more than 2 cases at once...


A big question, has anyone made an .stl of the Main_Body_M634JS and the wall extender as one unit? (Tweaking away the unneccessary clamps and just smoothed it over)
If so, is that .stl availible?

May the force be with you mates!!!
/Silverbullit the Swedish bullitspreader

Really appreciate you sharing that. put a smile on my face. I will tell you this is exactly why I enjoy sharing my work. Reading your story and how much you and your shooting/reloading buddies are getting out of it makes all the time worth it. Cheers to you brother!

[Lakehouse2012]

Popping in again, hi guys!

Have any of the collaters been used for 9mm brass? If yes can someone point me the the files please?

Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Popping in again, hi guys!

Have any of the collaters been used for 9mm brass? If yes can someone point me the the files please?

Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk

I use it for 9mm brass all the time. Files are in the "Downloads" in my signature.

[Lakehouse2012]

I use it for 9mm brass all the time. Files are in the "Downloads" in my signature.Thanks Tyler!

Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk

[Gillie Dog]

GWS & Gillie Dog,

Thank you a bazillion mates!!!
If you ever get lost in the forrest at hunting and stumble out of the woods in Piteå, Sweden, I'll get some sixpacks & spicy sausages and we can sit and watch these bullet/case feeders "run like forest"!!! :drinks:

No problem at all, I printed a 300mm before getting to that one. Let us know how it prints if you do one.

GD

[JStuhlmiller]

Really appreciate you sharing that. put a smile on my face. I will tell you this is exactly why I enjoy sharing my work. Reading your story and how much you and your shooting/reloading buddies are getting out of it makes all the time worth it. Cheers to you brother!


Tyler,

I got around to moving my Dillon 750 back to the bench to run some 40 S&W. It took me less than 5 minutes to mount the bullet feeder and get it running perfect.

My $8k automated Apex 10 with Mr. BF doesnt work as good. I am likely to rip off the Mr. Bullet feeder and replace with your design. Merry Christmas mate!

[Lakehouse2012]

Tyler,

I got around to moving my Dillon 750 back to the bench to run some 40 S&W. It took me less than 5 minutes to mount the bullet feeder and get it running perfect.

My $8k automated Apex 10 with Mr. BF doesnt work as good. I am likely to rip off the Mr. Bullet feeder and replace with your design. Merry Christmas mate! Holy smokes, that's a he'll of an admission... I've got a apex with autodrive sitting on my bench from a good buddy and I've been wondering if it could even live up to the hype...

Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk

[Lakehouse2012]

Tyler, I've been getting onto your GH site the last few days and I'm absolutely astonished with all the work you have done!

I printed several of the versions from 4+ years back and was finally getting around to putting them onto a machine when I determined that it needed a few alterations... Well I gave up on that idea and am printing all new parts for the project, fit and function appear to be MUCH improved.

Thanks so much!!!

Merry Christmas!

Chris

[TylerR]

Tyler, I've been getting onto your GH site the last few days and I'm absolutely astonished with all the work you have done!

I printed several of the versions from 4+ years back and was finally getting around to putting them onto a machine when I determined that it needed a few alterations... Well I gave up on that idea and am printing all new parts for the project, fit and function appear to be MUCH improved.

Thanks so much!!!

Merry Christmas!

Chris

Glad you are liking it! Hope everyone had a great Christmas.

[TylerR]

Glad you are liking it! Hope everyone had a great Christmas.

Does anyone here reload 6mm .243? I created a new die that needs to be tested.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/7.%20Bullet%20Feed%20Dies/Feed_Die_6mm_Set.stl

I don't reload that caliber so hard for me to test.

[GWS]

Does anyone here reload 6mm .243? I created a new die that needs to be tested.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/7.%20Bullet%20Feed%20Dies/Feed_Die_6mm_Set.stl

I don't reload that caliber so hard for me to test.

I have a rifle, and dies, powder and primers.........and maybe even bullets......but I don't shoot it enough so haven't ever reloaded for it....

I did download your file.......so I'll see this morning if I really do have bullets and I'll give it try if I do.....let you know soon.

[TylerR]

I have a rifle, and dies, powder and primers.........and maybe even bullets......but I don't shoot it enough so haven't ever reloaded for it....

I did download your file.......so I'll see this morning if I really do have bullets and I'll give it try if I do.....let you know soon.

Excellent thank you GWS. I am mostly concerned with it being able to drop bullets correctly.

[GWS]

I got a box of Sierra 85gn and a part box of 105gn Speers, but I didn't get the prints started today.....honey do's preparing for company took my attention and time.....but early in the morning I'll start 'em printing. (6 hours).

I went and bought a new Creality Ender 5 S1. Company said it prints 5 times faster......I really doubt it. Already I'm replacing Creality's firm ware leveling prob, firmware and display for TH3d versions because they have features I prefer not on the factory stuff. But its a day or two away from print jobs.....maybe I'll print two sets to compare....small bed tho...not like your plus. Poly P bed came for it yesterday.....I'll try Creality's metal magnetic bed a few times.....but I don't like the rough texture.

Update: A little egg on my face....the Sierras weren't 100gn but 85. Memory isn't as good as looking at the stupid box. So I had to update this and later posts.

[GWS]

Tyler: I printed the set and tried to test it, but it needed some work or my printer does.

The I.S. diameter of the inside part needs to be over 6mm. My Hornady and Sierra bullets would not drop in the too narrow tube. I drilled it with a 1/4" drill (6.4mm is close) and they drop fine.

The I.S. diameter of the bottom of the outside part won't allow sized .243 cases to go inside. That tube needs to be 12mm in diameter.

I drilled both out and the bullets drop correctly. Will print another set when you open them up a bit. Without the source code I can't do that for you. :)

[TylerR]

Tyler: I printed the set and tried to test it, but it needed some work or my printer does.

The I.S. diameter of the inside part needs to be over 6mm. My Hornady and Sierra bullets would not drop in the too narrow tube. I drilled it with a 1/4" drill (6.4mm is close) and they drop fine.

The I.S. diameter of the bottom of the outside part won't allow sized .243 cases to go inside. That tube needs to be 12mm in diameter.

I drilled both out and the bullets drop correctly. Will print another set when you open them up a bit. Without the source code I can't do that for you. :)

Thank you very much for helping me work thru it.

The insert ID was set to be 6.3, so that should work.
The body ID was too small. I opened it up to 12.3mm
I sent you an email.

[GWS]

Tonight, I cleaned up the successful print, cooled to shrink size, and used my chainsaw round file and a quarter inch all-thread again, running them through the bullet drop, until the bullets dropped freely and cleanly. Works fine with both 85 grain and 105 grain bullets. I'll buy some 75 grain tomorrow to test, being that I'd like to start loading those for varmints.

One has to work on it a while until the I.D. is opened enough, but I wouldn't really want a larger dia. hole to work with.....better not to have too big a hole.

The bearing holes work way better at the new locations for all except the 85's which I have yet to try out. Good Job! I'll try to post a video when I can demo all three sizes.

[JStuhlmiller]

Holy smokes, that's a he'll of an admission... I've got a apex with autodrive sitting on my bench from a good buddy and I've been wondering if it could even live up to the hype...

Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk

the Apex 10 is good when it is running. I've finally gotten mine tuned for 9mm. it was a struggle.

[JStuhlmiller]

I got a box of Sierra 100gn and a part box of 105gn Speers, but I didn't get the prints started today.....honey do's preparing for company took my attention and time.....but early in the morning I'll start 'em printing. (6 hours).

I went and bought a new Creality Ender 5 S1. Company said it prints 5 times faster......I really doubt it. Already I'm replacing Creality's firm ware leveling prob, firmware and display for TH3d versions because they have features I prefer not on the factory stuff. But its a day or two away from print jobs.....maybe I'll print two sets to compare....small bed tho...not like your plus. Poly P bed came for it yesterday.....I'll try Creality's metal magnetic bed a few times.....but I don't like the rough texture.

Flip the pei sheet over its smooth on the other side.

[JStuhlmiller]

So I purchased a few

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800829776513.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_l ist_main.5.51f21802KpSA2h&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

and used a relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078T8CMF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

and the relay makes a terrible noise when I turn it on. works fine when I connect a jgy370 but I need the bigger motor for the case feeder

any ideas?

[TylerR]

So I purchased a few

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800829776513.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_l ist_main.5.51f21802KpSA2h&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

and used a relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078T8CMF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

and the relay makes a terrible noise when I turn it on. works fine when I connect a jgy370 but I need the bigger motor for the case feeder

any ideas?

Are you asking about the relay noise? Those are mechanical relay's so some noise is expected. Rated for 40A so will handle any motor you throw at it.

[GWS]

These are the ones TylerR got me to buy......three times 3 collatoers.....cheap and silent....and they work for any motor I have.

https://www.amazon.com/Kyoto-Electric-KF0602D-Solid-State/dp/B00B888WVC?pd_rd_w=mjfwC&content-id=amzn1.sym.80b2efcb-1985-4e3a-b8e5-050c8b58b7cf&pf_rd_p=80b2efcb-1985-4e3a-b8e5-050c8b58b7cf&pf_rd_r=FC2HHFV5YJQ7Z3F3W29P&pd_rd_wg=U5sDU&pd_rd_r=d72ef9f4-4a1a-4ddb-884d-b0aa204fadb0&pd_rd_i=B00B888WVC&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_ppx_yo_dt_b_search_bi a_t


Flip the pei sheet over its smooth on the other side.

and they don't do well with these......

https://i.postimg.cc/nzPTYPZS/IMG_4134.jpg

After 3 years of perfect printing of Tyler's tall skinnies (feed dies), I had the first fallover experience on my P.P. bed.....I knew after 3 years of printing, the bed was due for a resanding, since pores fill up with plastic and tooth is lost....which the quick 30 second sanding with 220 grit sand paper instantly fixed....now good for 3 more years of printing with no bed glue.

I printed two more sets of this .243 bullet feeder die that TylerR's trying to test, after the sanding operation and no more fallovers. TylerR's new die is almost ready for prime time. ;)

[GWS]

So on this new 6mm bullet feed die.....After a couple of minor hiccups, I got perfection dropping 85 grain Sierras and 105 grain Speer .243 bullets, both boattails!

I use the Alternate Down tubes because I mount them and my proximity sensors below the collator. So exchange the alternate for the regular D.T if you mount your prox just on top of the bullet feed die. For my setup the following worked 100% and smooth bullet after bullet.

Top to bottom:
• Collator Body
• Drop_Hole_Adapter
• Drop_Tube_Alt_7mm with Drop_Tube_Proximity_Housing around it, and Drop_Tube_Proximity_Thread_Insert inside the housing.
• Spring_Adapter_7
• Spring
• Spring_Adapter_7_DT
• Spring_Drop_Tube_Small
• Feed_Die_6mm_Insert
• Feed_Die_7mm_Body

TylerR had to move the bearing holes just a little, then it was perfection. Not surprised are you?;)

Update: I went to Sportsman's warehouse to buy some more 6mm bullets, but could only find 75gr Speer Varmints....bought them, and a little while ago I tested and compared them to my Sierra 85gr boattails. They work too. Best in the middle holes for all three.

Thought is was interesting that the 75 grainers were the same length as the 85 grainers.....minus the boattails.

[TylerR]

So on this new 6mm bullet feed die.....After a couple of minor hiccups, I got perfection dropping 85 grain Sierras and 105 grain Speer .243 bullets, both boattails!

I use the Alternate Down tubes because I mount them and my proximity sensors below the collator. So exchange the alternate for the regular D.T if you mount your prox just on top of the bullet feed die. For my setup the following worked 100% and smooth bullet after bullet.

Top to bottom:
• Collator Body
• Drop_Hole_Adapter
• Drop_Tube_Alt_7mm with Drop_Tube_Proximity_Housing around it, and Drop_Tube_Proximity_Thread_Insert inside the housing.
• Spring_Adapter_7
• Spring
• Spring_Adapter_7_DT
• Spring_Drop_Tube_Small
• Feed_Die_6mm_Insert
• Feed_Die_7mm_Body

TylerR had to move the bearing holes just a little, then it was perfection. Not surprised are you?;)

Update: I went to Sportsman's warehouse to buy some more 6mm bullets, but could only find 75gr Speer Varmints....bought them, and a little while ago I tested and compared them to my Sierra 85gr boattails. They work too. Best in the middle holes for all three.

Thought is was interesting that the 75 grainers were the same length as the 85 grainers.....minus the boattails.

Thank you again for all your testing. I do not use the caliber and cannot test, so the community owes you for all your hard work!

[GWS]

Thank you again for all your testing. I do not use the caliber and cannot test, so the community owes you for all your hard work!

Not hard work, puttering. ;) You have done all the hard work. The least we mere mortals can and should help where we can.

Here in NW New Mexico it snowed 4 inches last night. So looks like I'll be getting my survival exercise in today, shoveling snow. Just thankful it's not 2 feet like it used to be before the coal fired power plant went in. That "global warming" was a Godsend to us. Made an inversion surrounding us, that protects us from the heavy snows.

[JStuhlmiller]

Maybe I will post a video later because much to my surprise when I connect the big motor it isn't a bit of noise its constant and sounds terrible. The motor doesn't run either. Maybe I have a bad motor. I will try that.


Are you asking about the relay noise? Those are mechanical relay's so some noise is expected. Rated for 40A so will handle any motor you throw at it.

[GWS]

Below, the 4 bullets that work so far in Tyler's 6mm rifle feeder die:
https://i.postimg.cc/yxjgw13x/IMG-4297.jpg

Speer 105, Hornady 100, Sierra 85, Speer 75 left to right

The proof.....each bullet dropped, all with ball bearings in the center holes. Bullet stack makes a difference....as I explain below the video.


https://youtu.be/0U6OvfOuR0E

Important: In the video you will notice that the last bullet, the smallest and a flat base didn't stick in the chamfered-only case neck. The fact is, the last bullet in the tube has no weight above it to push on it.....and it was the lightest bullet to boot. This is a good argument for Lyman "M" style neck expanders, which if I had gone to the trouble to neck expand with such a die for this testing (which I use exclusively now days), the last bullet would have stuck perpendicular and not tipped over. Noe might be the only source of such a die in this caliber.....will be ordering one.

I was wrong...Lyman makes one for $34 for .243. But is backorder only.

[Kausit]

Harbor freight has the same spring kit for a low price.
https://www.harborfreight.com/200-piece-assorted-spring-set-67562.html

[r4ndy]

Hi - Any suggestions on what to clean carbon off the feeder bowl and the plates? I am using Overture PLA Pro. Was thinking of using some diluted isopropyl alcohol which seems safe from what I have read. I use One Shot for case lube for trimming and it is starting to get sticky in the bowl and I am getting occasional stuck cases in the sizer/trim die. Figure cleaning everything may help a bit.

[GWS]

Harbor freight has the same spring kit for a low price.
https://www.harborfreight.com/200-piece-assorted-spring-set-67562.html

I hate going to Harbor Freight.....usually a huge waste of time.....but I'll have to go check that one out. Thanks! ;) I did buy an aluminum tool case there once and liked that a lot!....turned it into a great organizer for my CED M2 Range Chronograph!

https://i.postimg.cc/jdrhGn4d/IMG-2574.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/nVmkRG7P/IMG-2572.jpg


Hi - Any suggestions on what to clean carbon off the feeder bowl and the plates? I am using Overture PLA Pro. Was thinking of using some diluted isopropyl alcohol which seems safe from what I have read. I use One Shot for case lube for trimming and it is starting to get sticky in the bowl and I am getting occasional stuck cases in the sizer/trim die. Figure cleaning everything may help a bit.

I've not had the need yet, but I'd probably first try what I use on my 3D printer plate....99% isopropyl, or mineral spirits....or even might try Dawn Dishwashing liquid, or even Goo Gone.

[Pineapple90]

Hi everyone,
I got a question about 9mm brass base down feeding.
According to the manual there is no ramp for brass base down, only Ramp and Ramp_Brass_Base_Up.

Is there no ramp needed? Seems like all the brass is dropping before making it to the ramp, but it feels weird to just leave the ramp slot empty. It seems like an occasional misaligned case could jam on the edges without any ramp?

[calgarysparky]

Query, is there a bowl extender for the 300? If not what scale up of the standard one? I've built a headstamp case sorter system and using the 300 bowl on it. Would be great to have the extender so I could dump 1k of 9mm into it and let er rip. TIA!!

[MSUICEMAN]

Hi everyone,
I got a question about 9mm brass base down feeding.
According to the manual there is no ramp for brass base down, only Ramp and Ramp_Brass_Base_Up.

Is there no ramp needed? Seems like all the brass is dropping before making it to the ramp, but it feels weird to just leave the ramp slot empty. It seems like an occasional misaligned case could jam on the edges without any ramp?There is a plug to go into the one hole when collating brass.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Pineapple90]

Thanks I got the plug for the bullet drop hole, but what about the slot where the ramp goes for bullet collating?

[MSUICEMAN]

Thanks I got the plug for the bullet drop hole, but what about the slot where the ramp goes for bullet collating?Print it, install it, and leave it there. Doesn't harm anything in my experience.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Pineapple90]

Print it, install it, and leave it there. Doesn't harm anything in my experience.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Will do. Thanks for the quick support.

[M500]

Query, is there a bowl extender for the 300? TIA!!

There is one in TylerR's files.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Main_Body_Wall_Extender_300mm.stl

[BHiggins]

So I have just finished putting together a feeder, and have read the entire thread over the last few months, and wanted to thank everyone who has made contributions to this thread, it is nothing short of amazing!I have a few pieces left to get together, and have been dealing with amazon sending me the wrong proximity sensor the last two times.

I had ordered a 3d printed case feeder from an online store, and realized that I could supplement it by 3d printing, and decided to take the plunge, and to print Tylers design, which is a much better design, I can't tell you how many pages and posts I have bookmarked to come back to that helped me with going through the process!

[00DAR]

Just printed Tylers 6mm bullet feeder set. like most of the feed dies I print, a little sanding to smooth things out and it works like a charm. everything from 87 to 105 grain tried and work fine. 6MM WOA cartridge and ball in the top hole.
I too, would like to thank everyone that has worked on the whole project. everything I've printed has worked great if I do my part. I have struggled to get PETG to print anything, be it gun room things, house things, or toys for the grandkids. So I've given up on it, and just use PLA or PLA+ Just ordered some red satin filament. Can't wait to print something with it.
Again, Thanks all who contribute!!

[GWS]

Welcome to the forum.....and yes TylerR stuff just works. Pictures yet?

[BHiggins]

I am new to posting, nevermind pictures or videos, so hopefully this works below!


https://drive.google.com/file/d/13JGvxEOKv4m5eXxrSGtnkMFM3loXY6hR/view?usp=sharing

[GWS]

Looks great! Reminds me of my first one........there may be more :).....I'm up to four....maybe one more will be enough.

[TylerR]

Just printed Tylers 6mm bullet feeder set. like most of the feed dies I print, a little sanding to smooth things out and it works like a charm. everything from 87 to 105 grain tried and work fine. 6MM WOA cartridge and ball in the top hole.
I too, would like to thank everyone that has worked on the whole project. everything I've printed has worked great if I do my part. I have struggled to get PETG to print anything, be it gun room things, house things, or toys for the grandkids. So I've given up on it, and just use PLA or PLA+ Just ordered some red satin filament. Can't wait to print something with it.
Again, Thanks all who contribute!!

Great feedback, thank you. Glad we have another feed die confirmed to work by both you and GWS.

[TylerR]

I am new to posting, nevermind pictures or videos, so hopefully this works below!


https://drive.google.com/file/d/13JGvxEOKv4m5eXxrSGtnkMFM3loXY6hR/view?usp=sharing

Looks great! Next step is to print the 300mm version :)

[00DAR]

Tyler, yes. haven't got to posting pictures yet, but it works well.

[00DAR]

GWS, you are also a great contributor. no, haven't got pictures posted yet. I'll figure it out. I do have some pictures posted to the lee sixpack face book page. under hiwayman. for whatever reason, cast boolits wouldn't recognize my sign in and I had to create a new account. but I'm still just the ol hiwayman.

[BHiggins]

I wish! Unfortunately, I would need to get a bigger printer, which doesn't sound like the worst idea!

Thanks again to everyone that made this project into what it is, it is truly impressive!

[shoff14]

Has anyone used an M18 prox switch with 10mm sensing distance instead of the 14mm?

[TylerR]

Has anyone used an M18 prox switch with 10mm sensing distance instead of the 14mm?

I don't use them, but I am fairly certain they will work with the newly designed drop tubes.

[Lakehouse2012]

Has anyone printed Mike's primer tube filler device? I just found on TV and I'm working through the latest version, but its 2019 and wondering if they are old, or still useful...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3412779

[MSUICEMAN]

Has anyone printed Mike's primer tube filler device? I just found on TV and I'm working through the latest version, but its 2019 and wondering if they are old, or still useful...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3412779I sorta wondered the same, though I have a vibraprime that works well (and one that doesn't, probably need to tweak the tray some).

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Lakehouse2012]

Thanks for responding MSUICE! I reset one of my printers with a 0.3mm nozzle, and Painfully waiting through a 7.5hr print to see if the fine resolution can be met... If nothing else I will report back in the morning on what I find.


I sorta wondered the same, though I have a vibraprime that works well (and one that doesn't, probably need to tweak the tray some).

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[MSUICEMAN]

Thanks for responding MSUICE! I reset one of my printers with a 0.3mm nozzle, and Painfully waiting through a 7.5hr print to see if the fine resolution can be met... If nothing else I will report back in the morning on what I find.I'm going to break down and print another base. I have enough stuff to make another minus motor and relay, so why the heck not I suppose. May even try out ASA. Have a decent profile worked up for it and have had good luck. Let us know how it comes out, I'd be interested in making one as the vibraprime can be ornery, like me.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Lakehouse2012]

I'm going to break down and print another base. I have enough stuff to make another minus motor and relay, so why the heck not I suppose. May even try out ASA. Have a decent profile worked up for it and have had good luck. Let us know how it comes out, I'd be interested in making one as the vibraprime can be ornery, like me.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using TapatalkSo far it seems to fit together well. I printed the lower on 1mm nozzle with left over spools and the upper (green) at 0.3mm nozzle. I'm waiting for motor and controller parts to come in tomorrow. But threw primers in and manually seem to right themselves well.

Only thing that might be an issue is the ribs used for flipping the primers might be too small and close together, if I redesign I'll spread them out like the Lee shakers do it. But I'll wait until I finish it to mod it...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240128/a6b8c83cd00f58a5e213795c9fec67a8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240128/6c64062cd53b37383493cf61ac937320.jpg

[shoff14]

I don't use them, but I am fairly certain they will work with the newly designed drop tubes.

Looks like you updated the downtubes 5 months ago? Printed my downtubes a year ago. So I will roll with it and see if the shorter ones work ok, if not will reprint the downtubes.


Thanks for your work on this! I created a 1" tube table mount if you want to add it to your file database. Works with #8 screws or t channel clamps.

322722

[calgarysparky]

Morning Folks. Another small QOL adder for the project, a mirror mount. This will fit both the standard and 300 versions, no clue on the mongo. It uses 2x M3x10mm screws to attach to the bowl and a cheapy Amazon clip on mirror that you pull the clip off of. 322865 322866https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/1000062

[GWS]

Morning Folks. Another small QOL adder for the project, a mirror mount. This will fit both the standard and 300 versions, no clue on the mongo. It uses 2x M3x10mm screws to attach to the bowl and a cheapy Amazon clip on mirror that you pull the clip off of. 322865 322866https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/1000062 Looks like a good solution!

[Falconpunch]

Is there an offset that fits the bullet feeder die? I printed the size 11 from the AP files but it's a little big. I can use some tape to make it fit but thought I would ask.

[TylerR]

Is there an offset that fits the bullet feeder die? I printed the size 11 from the AP files but it's a little big. I can use some tape to make it fit but thought I would ask.

offset adapters are designed to fit the lee APP inserts. you need the adapter between the two.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter.stl

[VTX-]

I have been following this for a long time, Have most of my parts ready to assemble this weekend, Cant seem to find what the best spring size would be for 125 grn coated 9mm bullets. I have a double AA large spring, that I had purchased Back when I was acquiring parts for the Ammo Mikes feeder a couple years back, Is there a better option?

[r4ndy]

I don’t have any input on a better spring but the one you have is what I use for coated Bayou 9MM.

[Gillie Dog]

I have been following this for a long time, Have most of my parts ready to assemble this weekend, Cant seem to find what the best spring size would be for 125 grn coated 9mm bullets. I have a double AA large spring, that I had purchased Back when I was acquiring parts for the Ammo Mikes feeder a couple years back, Is there a better option?

This is what I use for all 9mm from my set up sheet. I did polish the insides of the #9 spring adapters and drop tube with fine sandpaper though for use with 38 SPL also.

GD

Collator Plate, 9mm bullet, Printed-custom
Plate Speed, 70%
Flipper, not necessary
Slide Plate, #5-no screw adj., Printed
Spring Tube Adapters, #9, Printed
Spring tube, Output Spring small, DAA
Drop Tube, 9, Printed-custom
Prox Holder, Printed
Prox Sleeve, Printed
Bullet Feeder Die, 35 Cal-upper holes, Lee Precision

[torpedo2k]

Howdy all. I have been admiring this project for a while now. Thanks to everyone that has contributed.

Need some quick advice. I cant quite figure out what options to check in the parts generator. I have an Ender 3 V3. Love the auto bed leveling vs my old upgraded Ender 3 Pro. So I am limited to 220x220. Which is OK because my volume will be fairly low. Shooting IDPA a couple times a week.
So I assume it will be this body: Main_Body_M634JS.stl
Question: Does the parts generator modify the Main_body based on selections?
Appreciate any feedback.

This is what I think I need at this point. Not sure about collator plates and their differences.
322953

I need to feed this thing. Just finished it. Need to hide the wires and train it now that it up and running.
322952

[Gillie Dog]

So I assume it will be this body: Main_Body_M634JS.stl
Question: Does the parts generator modify the Main_body based on selections?
Appreciate any feedback.

No it does not make any changes in the main body (or anything else) based on selections, it just puts it in the parts needed for the project. Project generator just makes parts list and assembles files for you to print.

That body is for the 634J motor of course.

Now you just need to get printing............... Have at it.

GD

[torpedo2k]

Thank you

[Gillie Dog]

Thank you

I forgot to add that I would recommend the hex coupler box be checked also for using the clutch in collator plates. With those selections and hex coupler about all I see missing is prox sensor housing and thread insert when the zip file is generated. Also spring adapters are missing because a spring size was not selected.

But all parts are in the download folders from TylerRs download link in his posts, if you have not got it downloaded already. Also the manual was a huge help to me getting going, had to read it several times to catch it all.

I like TylerRs collator plates better than those made with the parts generator/collator plate generator. They are in his collator plate folder.

GD

PS: The Parts Generator does get you TylerRs collator plate(s). The Plate Generator plates are different from what I can see.

[torpedo2k]

Yes, I downloaded the entire github repo. I ran the builder and matched it against what is in the folder. They are the same.

323009


Appreciate the feedback.

I'm 10.75 hours into the base plate print.
323010


I forgot to add that I would recommend the hex coupler box be checked also for using the clutch in collator plates. With those selections and hex coupler about all I see missing is prox sensor housing and thread insert when the zip file is generated. Also spring adapters are missing because a spring size was not selected.

But all parts are in the download folders from TylerRs download link in his posts, if you have not got it downloaded already. Also the manual was a huge help to me getting going, had to read it several times to catch it all.

I like TylerRs collator plates better than those made with the parts generator/collator plate generator. They are in his collator plate folder.

GD

PS: The Parts Generator does get you TylerRs collator plate(s). The Plate Generator plates are different from what I can see.

[Gillie Dog]

I'm 10.75 hours into the base plate print.
323010

Excellent you are on your way.

GD

[torpedo2k]

All done 24:55
Leftover filament from a project years ago.

323033
323029
323034
323031
323032

[calgarysparky]

Aight, setting up a 750. From right to left, attach to bowl, spring, adapter, adapter to alt drop tube, drop tube to pipe. Now what I can't seem to find is the part to couple the adapter to the alt drop tube. I'm pretty sure I have the rest of the parts sorted out. Some guidance please? Thanks.323039

[psychodad]

All done 24:55
Leftover filament from a project years ago.

I'm jealous. Started my print this am and it said 32 hrs on a Prusa MK3S+. Motor and electronics should be arriving today.

[torpedo2k]

I am pretty happy with the new Ender 3 v3. For years I have been manually bed leveling. This makes it so easy and first layers are nice. Maybe your estimate is a little high. Time will tell.

[GWS]

Aight, setting up a 750. From right to left, attach to bowl, spring, adapter, adapter to alt drop tube, drop tube to pipe. Now what I can't seem to find is the part to couple the adapter to the alt drop tube. I'm pretty sure I have the rest of the parts sorted out. Some guidance please? Thanks.323039

You had me going there for a while.....what you show doesn't work because the Alt version of the drop tube is opposite the regular drop tubes. The alt is made to mount directly to the drop hole screwed to the underside of the collator bowl, then the spring tube mounts under the drop tube. If you want spring to go on top you need to use the regular, not the alt drop tubes.

For a bullet drop, starting under the bowl, mount the Alt drop tube......the long spring adapter mounts directly under the Alt drop tube ..... then the spring tube .....then the short spring adapter. Then you can mount a large or medium or small "J" which slides over the bullet feeder die.

"J" is the "Spring_Drop_Tube_X" bottom part in the picture below....in this case X is "medium."

https://i.postimg.cc/3J95xfb0/IMG_3948.jpg

[GWS]

All done 24:55
Leftover filament from a project years ago.

323033
323029
323034
323031
323032

Looks gorgeous to me.....nice! Glossy too.....everybody knows I like glossy plates. ;)

[GWS]

@calgarysparky: If you really need such a thing for the Alt version......I can probably make one. Maybe cut and paste from two other parts....been done before in this project.....TylerR mostly, but I've done some too. :)

[calgarysparky]

Thanks, printing the larger drop tube now. What would be kickers is that although tube being 40mm shorter due to the angle the case chute is at.

[GWS]

Thanks, printing the larger drop tube now. What would be kickers is that although tube being 40mm shorter due to the angle the case chute is at.

So you mean you'd like to have the regular drop tube, only 40mm shorter? Am I reading your need accurately? That shouldn't be too hard. Need more detail.....which # Drop Tube are you needing? Is this for 9mm? Bullets? Cases? I'm blind here......

[calgarysparky]

So you mean you'd like to have the regular drop tube, only 40mm shorter? Am I reading your need accurately? That shouldn't be too hard. Need more detail.....which # Drop Tube are you needing? Is this for 9mm? Bullets? Cases? I'm blind here......

Hate it when I talk like my wife, LOL. Here are a couple of pics. I use the alt for case feeding and it would be good if it could be shorter. The white tape is what I would like to shorten it by. I gotta tweak my cad skills some to modify thes by myself. Would be looking at the 11 and 13 tubes to mod up.323076323077

[calgarysparky]

Here is my new 750 getting set up. My corexy machines print a bowl in about 6 hours.323078

[psychodad]

Getting ready to print the wall extender this afternoon. Instructions say no support req'd but that looks like an awfully long unsupported area at the bottom?? I'm thinking it may need some minimal support. What say you experts?

[calgarysparky]

print it upside down so the forks are to the top, no supports required.

[psychodad]

duh, thanks. I must be all giddy & excited with this new project....lol

[GWS]

TylerR had now redone the light sensor version shorter on all of them. I would rather have the height in the part, myself, and change the angle and presentation of the collator the I needed to, like I did in the picture below:

https://i.postimg.cc/jjGrCJMf/IMG-3747.jpg

But moot point now. Pretty rare to get this kind of service anywhere.....

[TylerR]

Hate it when I talk like my wife, LOL. Here are a couple of pics. I use the alt for case feeding and it would be good if it could be shorter. The white tape is what I would like to shorten it by. I gotta tweak my cad skills some to modify thes by myself. Would be looking at the 11 and 13 tubes to mod up.323076323077

You are looking for the alt drop tube without the prox sensor, correct?

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/6.%20Drop%20Tubes/Drop_Tube_Alt_11mm.stl
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/6.%20Drop%20Tubes/Drop_Tube_Alt_13mm.stl

[GWS]

He wants it short as it can be, in fact. I cut the #10 down......which is posted, but he wants several.....what calibers I don't know....little short on information. But you would have to place the trademark and part # in the part maybe 90d from the light sensor holes.....I learned that once....once wasn't enough! Anyway. I tried to send you a copy of the files as I've done before....but my new Windows 11 (old one croaked) laptop. And it won't allow the file size of all of them even zipped. Will try again another way. Was trying to save you the time......

https://i.postimg.cc/k59CCWtv/Drop-Tube-custom.png

[TylerR]

He wants it short as it can be, in fact. I cut the #10 down......which is posted, but he wants several.....what calibers I don't know....little short on information. But you would have to place the trademark and part # in the part maybe 90d from the light sensor holes.....I learned that once....once wasn't enough! Anyway. I tried to send you a copy of the files as I've done before....but my new Windows 11 (old one croaked) laptop. And it won't allow the file size of all of them even zipped. Will try again another way. Was trying to save you the time......


Thanks GWS. I posted the two he was looking for. Maybe I will just cut them all down. Now that I have dedicated prox vs light sensor versions they don't need to be as long.

[TylerR]

All of the Alt drop tubes are now dedicated to light/prox sensor and much shorter.

[GWS]

All of the Alt drop tubes are now dedicated to light/prox sensor and much shorter.

That's why you get the big bucks......erasing my nontrademarked one. :) It was the wrong part # anyway. Weird that I missed the two he was looking for.....and fixed the wrong one.....see.....getting old.

[flybyjohn]

Good morning. I started building a nose down bullet collator back when this thread just got started. I wanted something to be able to size bullets without having my hands cramp up from fiddling with the bullet loading. I didn’t have a printer at the time but was able to follow some examples and get something together with pvc pipe and thick plastic cutting board material store displays they were throwing out. I used a jig to cut the bullet plates. They work ok but since then I purchased a 3D printer. I was thinking I could draw up some bullet plates on the computer and print them now that I have a printer. I have been printing lately with PETG and ABS. I have a very nice cabinet for the printer and still get warping on larger items. I also hate how it takes a billion hours to print something only to see it warp at the last 1/4 of the print.

That’s when the light bulb went off in my head. I think I can get away with printing the outside 1.5 to 2” of the bullet plates with the printer and just take the cutting board plates I have now and turn them down to fit inside the 3D printed ring with a step. I could even make some what of a clutch on the joint in stead of attaching it solidly.

This comes to my question. When I was looking at GitHub for bullet plates I kept getting a message that it was”UNABLE TO RENDER CODE BLOCK” on all the plates and some of the other items. There were plenty of things that let me view them but all the bullet plates came up with this message. Any clue to what my problem is. I just wanted to get an idea of the shape and design of the plates so I would have fewer iterations until I got a plate to work good.

What do you all think? Sound like a decent idea or are there some pitfalls I’m not seeing here.

[calgarysparky]

All of the Alt drop tubes are now dedicated to light/prox sensor and much shorter.

Thank you sir!!! The pic that GWS posted was exactly what I was getting at. I use the light instead of prox as I find it takes up less room on the press. Had a heck of a time trying to get it to fit on a hornady so I just went light with everything.

[TylerR]

Good morning. I started building a nose down bullet collator back when this thread just got started. I wanted something to be able to size bullets without having my hands cramp up from fiddling with the bullet loading. I didn’t have a printer at the time but was able to follow some examples and get something together with pvc pipe and thick plastic cutting board material store displays they were throwing out. I used a jig to cut the bullet plates. They work ok but since then I purchased a 3D printer. I was thinking I could draw up some bullet plates on the computer and print them now that I have a printer. I have been printing lately with PETG and ABS. I have a very nice cabinet for the printer and still get warping on larger items. I also hate how it takes a billion hours to print something only to see it warp at the last 1/4 of the print.

That’s when the light bulb went off in my head. I think I can get away with printing the outside 1.5 to 2” of the bullet plates with the printer and just take the cutting board plates I have now and turn them down to fit inside the 3D printed ring with a step. I could even make some what of a clutch on the joint in stead of attaching it solidly.

This comes to my question. When I was looking at GitHub for bullet plates I kept getting a message that it was”UNABLE TO RENDER CODE BLOCK” on all the plates and some of the other items. There were plenty of things that let me view them but all the bullet plates came up with this message. Any clue to what my problem is. I just wanted to get an idea of the shape and design of the plates so I would have fewer iterations until I got a plate to work good.

What do you all think? Sound like a decent idea or are there some pitfalls I’m not seeing here.

That is a github issue. Best to download the entire zip file, unzip it to a folder, and then access the files from the folder.

[flybyjohn]

Thanks TylerR. I’ll do just that.

[dverna]

I follow this thread every few weeks. What you guys do is amazing!!!

[GWS]

I follow this thread every few weeks. What you guys do is amazing!!!

The more the merrier! Join the fun! By now you know as much as we do.....everybody adds valuable insights and talents to it. Always room for improvements.

[calgarysparky]

Tyler, you have a koffi or something where we can send some thanks for your work?

[AR-Bossman]

Dang GWS, still inventing new parts. You're a 3d printing savage! Always need to check this thread now and then. I can't believe how far it has gone.

[GWS]

Dang GWS, still inventing new parts. You're a 3d printing savage! Always need to check this thread now and then. I can't believe how far it has gone.

You started it!.....I would have had a happy boring rocking recliner getting old experience.....then you came along and dumped a carton of apples at me. :) Okay, maybe TylerR and Ed, and jmorris helped......it was a dang big carton! I still can't approach TylerR's talents and 3D design abilities....Yes I can help a little to keep his head above water. He bit off a lot. And am glad to help as a sidekick. I modify one part and he modifies the other 15 in a quarter of the time I spent doing one.

Check over at THR......it's starting there now.....TylerR, sorry, you may want to move to some hidden paradise away from anything or anyone reloading-related (me too). After the TylerR Lee APP quick change, which brought even more Lurkers to this thread, Lee came out with their 6 station progressive and a Norwegian lurker here, designed a great case feeder improvement that might even best my adaption of TylerR's QC for it......well maybe.....we will see. But even He is pushing TylerR's bullet/case collator system......for it! He's selling his case feed dropper print file for about $6 and I bought/downloaded and printed it to see if it's a good tool....think it is. And he's selling manufactured kits, shipped clear from Norway for less than $50. But at least he hasn't been dumb enough to rob TylerR's collators.....and feed dies....and try to sell them. Anyway, take a look......people are buying 3D printers right and left over there to join the fun.....


https://youtu.be/uPrYEO-wMSo

In the directions that came with the print files He mentions and recommends this forum thread and TylerR's Collators. He sells his products through Etsy.

[TylerR]

Check over at THR......

Do you have a link?

[TylerR]

Tyler, you have a koffi or something where we can send some thanks for your work?

check the readme on github.....

[dverna]

GWS, got the kit from that guy on Etsy and it looks good. Will report after I get it installed.

If I was still shooting 20k rounds a year, I might join you characters, but I have significantly downsized. If I get the Lee 6000 sorted out, might buy a 3D printed feeder and sell the Dillon 1050. I have not used it for a while.

[GWS]

Do you have a link?
The Etzy link is on this post:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-six-pack-pro-at-4k-rounds.925330/page-3#post-12807059

[TylerR]

The Etzy link is on this post:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-six-pack-pro-at-4k-rounds.925330/page-3#post-12807059

Very cool design, and love the video.

[calgarysparky]

Just completed getting my new 750 set up. Put a bunch of tweaks and items onto it for my particular use. 323210

[GWS]

Just completed getting my new 750 set up. Put a bunch of tweaks and items onto it for my particular use. 323210

Good idea on the cylinders around your spring tube.....easy to keep shape under a load.

Now all you need is some red.....Lee Six Pack. ;)

I thought I'd show a picture of the multipart print job for that Norwegian bullet dropper..... I was impatient and printed all but one part at once....and only because I missed seeing that one part when I combined .stls.

https://i.postimg.cc/GpHTRZyq/IMG-4318.jpg

[calgarysparky]

You mean press #2, LOL323213

[GWS]

That's funny! Almost identical twins even the pink mat! Pink goes with red even worse than with the blue.....:kidding:

What is super cool about the Norwegian's bullet dropper is it's stationary and the moving slide comes up to meet it.....so you don't have to have that long moving spring tube. I think I'm going to like it, even though my clear tube sliding inside another clear tube works quite well.

[calgarysparky]

That's funny! Almost identical twins even the pink mat! Pink goes with red even worse than with the blue.....:kidding:

What is super cool about the Norwegian's bullet dropper is it's stationary and the moving slide comes up to meet it.....so you don't have to have that long moving spring tube. I think I'm going to like it, even though my clear tube sliding inside another clear tube works quite well.

I'l llet ya test it out for a while. I got the 750 due to the SPP having the ram separate from the plate carrier. Lee was absolutely awesome and sent me a new one plus a couple of other part. Just waiting on my inline fab stuff to show up so I can swap presses when I want or need to. The SPP did a solid 10k rounds before the split with no issues. I'm going to build a round counter for it and track it's lifespan also.

[00DAR]

Tyler, bought the file and printed this out. so far worked on 5.56 and 9mm. it's very quick to adjust for case length. Now, if someone built a mounting bracket to use it on The APP/ACP.

[calgarysparky]

Tyler, bought the file and printed this out. so far worked on 5.56 and 9mm. it's very quick to adjust for case length. Now, if someone built a mounting bracket to use it on The APP/ACP.

Don't think it would work on an app because the slider doesn't move up and down to trigger it.

[GWS]

Tyler, bought the file and printed this out. so far worked on 5.56 and 9mm. it's very quick to adjust for case length. Now, if someone built a mounting bracket to use it on The APP/ACP.

I don't need it for the APP.....got TylerR's quick change system......for the moving feeder on the 6000 it's pretty useful, but I have mine fixed up also with the Quick Change and it works just as good.....I bought the Norwegian product out of curiosity.....and it is a good option too, but there's nothing wrong with the quick change, and I think it still is faster to change calibers....and it works for APP too.


https://youtu.be/aOZ65zvXbJg

[TylerR]

The whole concept behind the quick change is you swap one part and your done. I love the design behind the "Universal case dropper for Lee Six Pack Pro", it is very well thought out, but it still has the same flaw of having to make adjustments for every caliber change. I want to just swap and go.

[GWS]

The whole concept behind the quick change is you swap one part and your done. I love the design behind the "Universal case dropper for Lee Six Pack Pro", it is very well thought out, but it still has the same flaw of having to make adjustments for every caliber change. I want to just swap and go.

Exactly! On the 6000, using thin wall 15mm ID/16mm OD tubing from the prox sensor to the support part, plugging into the frame's front hole, I can insert Lee's 9/16" tubing that comes on their 4 ways and 5 ways inside the caliber supports below and the prox outlet above. Just need to inside-bevel at the top edge of that Lee tubing, with a case deburr/beveling tool, so cases don't hang.....then I can drop most any case into the quick change without adjusting for case length. So far I feed 9mm to .308 that way, just by lifting out 3 parts, changing only the caliber insert to another caliber, then dropping them back in....per caliber change: (takes as long as this video)


https://youtu.be/Lzb892Ocx8Y
I actually used 1/2" tubing in that .223 version with a 3/4" long 9/16" tube glued to the top (both beveled tops), but most calibers will just use the 9/16" Lee tube alone.



https://youtu.be/aOZ65zvXbJg?si=ZyTnPM1TW421TGWH

Using the same APP inserts, but the insert holder has to be a little longer than the APP one.

Uxcell link below provides the clear tube that slides over the standard Lee 9/16" OD tube and works to couple this to a collator.

Videos were tests, using Ammo Mikes little collator, and my old prox housing.....but I will redo this to use Tyler's parts....its just what I had handy that day. Time to upgrade to TylerR's standard parts.....

TylerR, you ought to think about that 6000 press to add to your bench.....You can't have too many progressives and a 6 holer really comes in handy! ;) (says the tempter....)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TV1PV11/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[flybyjohn]

I read the manual and was a little confused about what part to use to attach to the nose down slide plates. On the slide plate page there is part B brass x drop hole for up down brass slide plates. On the collator main body page there is part F drop hole adapter to screw to the body. It says nothing about the slide plate.

I am using the collator for nose down bullet feeding into a flex spring and then into a clear feed tube to feed the lee app for bullet sizing. I have purchased a 6.50 dollar proximity sensor that is squarish in shape but works well in testing. I plan to make a print that will hold it right at the top of the clear tubing.

I just didn’t know what part screwed to the NDB slide plate that I could put a spring into. I would assume the part F from the collator main body page might work and then a fitting that goes into that which would attactch to the spring.

[flybyjohn]

I printed the drop hole adapter and it looks like the holes line up so that’s what I will use.
Oh by the way, I was able to modify the #5 bullet plate to take advantage of some of the botched together collator I made before I had a 3d printer. I printed a bullet plate ring and turned down my ppe plates to fit in the middle. It saved me a lot of time on the printer. I call them my hybrid plates. I know I don’t get a clutch with them but I haven’t had one up to now so I don’t know what I’m missing yet.

323314323315

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
What are the benefits of the APP_Base_Slide_Long.stl compared to APP_Base_Slide.stl ?
Best Regards
///Roger

[TylerR]

I read the manual and was a little confused about what part to use to attach to the nose down slide plates. On the slide plate page there is part B brass x drop hole for up down brass slide plates. On the collator main body page there is part F drop hole adapter to screw to the body. It says nothing about the slide plate.

I am using the collator for nose down bullet feeding into a flex spring and then into a clear feed tube to feed the lee app for bullet sizing. I have purchased a 6.50 dollar proximity sensor that is squarish in shape but works well in testing. I plan to make a print that will hold it right at the top of the clear tubing.

I just didn’t know what part screwed to the NDB slide plate that I could put a spring into. I would assume the part F from the collator main body page might work and then a fitting that goes into that which would attactch to the spring.

Either of these:
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Drop_Hole_Adapter.stl

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Drop_Hole_Adapter_Angled_Slide.stl

[TylerR]

Dear Team !
What are the benefits of the APP_Base_Slide_Long.stl compared to APP_Base_Slide.stl ?
Best Regards
///Roger

The tab that pushes the case is longer. Best used for small rifle caliber's like .223.

[rogerandre]

The tab that pushes the case is longer. Best used for small rifle caliber's like .223.

Makes sense. Long or short for 9 mm ?

[TylerR]

Makes sense. Long or short for 9 mm ?

Go with the short for pistol rounds.

[00DAR]

Yes, I have the Tyler R setup printed in every caliber I load for. one base stays on the APP one used to stay on the 6000. BUT I still have that odd time when it drops two or more rifle cases. Never happens in pistol brass but does for me on rifle brass.

[GWS]

Pay attention on which calibers are guilty and post a picture of that caliber's insert that you are using. I had that happen when rifle inserts allowed sideways movement of the cases when they hit the shuttle slide.....that's why I changed the side cutouts on some of them to keep the necks in place as long as possible. These two videos demonstrate the difference....first one with cutout to the center line ....second video cutout only in the forward direction.


https://youtu.be/_7FquLSJVq4


https://youtu.be/xQfchCIpMqE

The picture below illustrates the difference .....stock one is cut from the bottom center line....modified one on the right, forces the case to go out the front only.

https://i.postimg.cc/rm0FwwdW/IMG-3924.jpg

[TylerR]

The picture below illustrates the difference .....stock one is cut from the bottom center line....modified one on the right, forces the case to go out the front only.

https://i.postimg.cc/rm0FwwdW/IMG-3924.jpg

All of the rifle inserts on github at this point are your contoured ones GWS. Except the 6.5mm.

[rogerandre]

All of the rifle inserts on github at this point are your contoured ones GWS. Except the 6.5mm.

Huge thanks for the excellent feedback !
Only thing is that I of course shoot 6.5x55 Swedish, that we all know is the Queen of all calibers :-).

[TylerR]

Huge thanks for the excellent feedback !
Only thing is that I of course shoot 6.5x55 Swedish, that we all know is the Queen of all calibers :-).

Haha, well shoot. I may need to recruit GWS to do his excellent work on that insert. Also noticed the 7.62x39 brass insert is not contoured as well.

[r4ndy]

GWS - Can you please share what spring you are using? In the video it looks like a smaller dimension than the DAA MRBF ones. I am having issues with 55gr 223 occasionally bunching up at the top of the drop tube so I am looking for a thinner spring. Thanks

[TylerR]

GWS - Can you please share what spring you are using? In the video it looks like a smaller dimension than the DAA MRBF ones. I am having issues with 55gr 223 occasionally bunching up at the top of the drop tube so I am looking for a thinner spring. Thanks

Your best options for other springs are in the links in the manual. You can go with springs from Aliexpress or Mcmaster carr. For .223 you could use the 9mm OD spring from ali, or the 1/4"(.035") from mcmaster. The 10-11mm or 3/8" springs would also work.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832626574002.html
https://www.mcmaster.com/coil-springs/extension-spring-stock-6/

[torpedo2k]

From the "For whats its worth department". This Hillman spring worked great for me with 9mm cases and they are in stock at most Lowes in the U.S.
#12 fits like a glove. :D

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-16-in-Zinc-Gate-Extension-Spring/3115901

323363

[GWS]

GWS - Can you please share what spring you are using? In the video it looks like a smaller dimension than the DAA MRBF ones. I am having issues with 55gr 223 occasionally bunching up at the top of the drop tube so I am looking for a thinner spring. Thanks

If they bunch up at the top of the drop tube....or IOW's at the bottom end of the spring, wouldn't a spring of thinner material make it worse? Sometimes, depending on the spring or the printed drop tube, or some other adapter or insert, I have to the opening just a hair to remove any "shelf or protrusion in the line. It's got to be a smooth transition everywhere. Often I can remedy such things with a chamfer/deburring tool that most reloaders have handy to deburr/chamfer brass necks.

What I use is not what most use.....I just bought two short lengths of 1/4" from Ace Hardware and made a clear tubing section between them.....because I didn't have a long spring then, having ordered the wrong even smaller size by mistake! ;) That one might do .17 caliber.....but I'm not reloading that....ever.:)

What's funny is I like that clear tubing because not only did it make a visible section, it made it stiffer, less unwieldy.....so I kept it just the way it was.....but I had to smooth out even more places for possible trouble than you got!

https://i.postimg.cc/cCjvMVRf/IMG-3633.jpg

[GWS]

From the "For whats its worth department". This Hillman spring worked great for me with 9mm cases and they are in stock at most Lowes in the U.S.
#12 fits like a glove. :D

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-16-in-Zinc-Gate-Extension-Spring/3115901

I will have to check out the gate springs at Lowes....a local supply for long springs is interesting indeed.

[GWS]

Haha, well shoot. I may need to recruit GWS to do his excellent work on that insert. Also noticed the 7.62x39 brass insert is not contoured as well.

I have an untested one for 7.62x39, untested because I have no brass or rifle in that caliber. The swede one ..... I can make one, but again can't test it. Got to out of town again tomorrow, but I can work on the swede mauser one in the motel tomorrow night.

[r4ndy]

The bunching up is due to a bullet resting above the drop tube in the spring at a sharp angle then another bullet coming and wedging against it. I have minimized it by getting the spring to be closer to vertical as it gets to the drop tube, but it still happens occasionally. Once they get wedged like that they don’t go into the tube. A smaller diameter tube will keep the bullet more parallel to the spring and flow into the tube better. I’ll get a photo to better show what is happening but I am going to grab some that tube you mentioned from Ace. Thanks!

[TylerR]

The bunching up is due to a bullet resting above the drop tube in the spring at a sharp angle then another bullet coming and wedging against it. I have minimized it by getting the spring to be closer to vertical as it gets to the drop tube, but it still happens occasionally. Once they get wedged like that they don’t go into the tube. A smaller diameter tube will keep the bullet more parallel to the spring and flow into the tube better. I’ll get a photo to better show what is happening but I am going to grab some that tube you mentioned from Ace. Thanks!

Post processing of the drop tube with sandpaper/round file/acetone should eliminate that. Also, I am not sure how long ago you printed the drop tube, but a few months back all of the smaller tubes were changed to have a more gradual feed cone at the top. Which drop tube are you using?

[GWS]

I think we're all thinking the same, spoken out thoughts, without enough detail to know it. ;)

I've had similar stoppages with small bullets catching even in the spaces between spring helixs stretched too far. Which is why I chose not to stretch those two short ones yet wanted to "see".....bullet have a smoother ride with nothing to catch a base edge on. Even bullet design makes a difference....boat tails don't catch as often...and on and on....

Then there's the too large diameter problem like the picture shows below (even in totally smooth surfaces like clear tube):

https://i.postimg.cc/d0DTZpGh/IMG-4149.jpg

A little better below:

https://i.postimg.cc/8C3fR4bt/IMG-4150.jpg

But much more reliable below:

https://i.postimg.cc/L50jWSkF/IMG-4151.jpg

But TylerR is also right, improving his parts is a constant mission at his house, and it's a good idea to download the project every few months with the newer always improved files. TylerR, I think even Lee has caught on to your methods......they now are constantly improving their products too......and I betcha there are more corporate spys checking on this project and even secretly downloading and building it....lurking always lurking! LOL! TylerR obviously has nothing to hide so that's just good for everybody in the hobby no matter what the color of their equipment.

But just be vigilant everywhere there is a transition between parts watch for "shelves" between them where bullets can hang and fix em, and find the smallest clear tube and/or springs that just allow bullets to fall loose and smooth, but not angled.

[TylerR]

I have an untested one for 7.62x39, untested because I have no brass or rifle in that caliber. The swede one ..... I can make one, but again can't test it. Got to out of town again tomorrow, but I can work on the swede mauser one in the motel tomorrow night.

I have the same issue. trying to support lots of calibers I do not personally have. I did post your modified 7.62 insert.

[GWS]

I have the samIe issue. trying to support lots of calibers I do not personally have. I did post your modified 7.62 insert.

I'll print it and beg someone to loan me some brass to test it with.....but can't til Thursday at the soonest.....and that's also when I can make the other one for the Mauser.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team,
What STL do you recommend for 38 brass and 357 brass collator plate (standard collator main body) ?
Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

[TylerR]

Dear Team,
What STL do you recommend for 38 brass and 357 brass collator plate (standard collator main body) ?
Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

I would recommend the 300mm sized collator if you have the ability to print it.

[GWS]

TylerR, must be too early in the morning....he specified standard body.;)

I think the main consideration for plates is that the holes work better bigger than smaller, because smaller holes tend to be less efficient at catching cases. .357's are on the long side....but too short for plates that lay down brass. So I tested them with bigger holes.....the following video was "large pistol" if I remember right. The test was more to see if they fell backwards some of the time in the big holes....and I saw no evidence of that. .....But they sure dropped fast and efficient! No, I don't normally feed that fast....it was a test looking for "fail".....and it fed perfect and fast.


https://youtu.be/FsWdsDeQ68s

[TylerR]

TylerR, must be too early in the morning....he specified standard body.;)

I think the main consideration for plates is that the holes work better bigger than smaller, because smaller holes tend to be less efficient at catching cases. .357's are on the long side....but too short for plates that lay down brass. So I tested them with bigger holes.....the following video was "large pistol" if I remember right. The test was more to see if they fell backwards some of the time in the big holes....and I saw no evidence of that. .....But they sure dropped fast and efficient! No, I don't normally feed that fast....it was a test looking for "fail".....and it feed perfect and fast.



Must be! I thought the question was which collator body to print. :)
I still don't understand how you feed those that fast.

[GWS]

Must be! I thought the question was which collator body to print. :)
I still don't understand how you feed those that fast.

Easy! I started off with a TylerR large pistol plate!......and I have a Dayton motor that's starts out too fast in the first place, requiring a good speed control, and I didn't turn it down enough.....;) I figure testing too fast ensures perfection at normal speed. Of course ample angle is important, as you often preach, so the cases lie back against the hole wall when they come front where the drop is. I think problems with plates way too often is not enough angle.

One thing I'm not a fan of is feeding a huge bucket full at a time, and is why I never have printed a base extension.....it's just not that hard to pour some more in, and IME, when things feed upside down it's most often because there's so many layers of cases....and they are forced upside down by a hundred neighbors preventing gravity from doing it's job.

[flybyjohn]

Just been looking for a few hours on the bullet nose down slider plate development and can’t find out where it started and why there is a little wall in front of the drop hole. Is it a handle? I have never had a bullet fall forward and hit it and it is too far away to even catch a falling forward bullet anyway. So I just gots to know……what is it there for?

[rogerandre]

Easy! I started off with a TylerR large pistol plate!......and I have a Dayton motor that's starts out too fast in the first place, requiring a good speed control, and I didn't turn it down enough.....;) I figure testing too fast ensures perfection at normal speed. Of course ample angle is important, as you often preach, so the cases lie back against the hole wall when they come front where the drop is. I think problems with plates way too often is not enough angle.

One thing I'm not a fan of is feeding a huge bucket full at a time, and is why I never have printed a base extension.....it's just not that hard to pour some more in, and IME, when things feed upside down it's most often because there's so many layers of cases....and they are forced upside down by a hundred neighbors preventing gravity from doing it's job.

I think TylerR is just checking me :-)

So for 38 and 357 brass I should go for this one ? https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/3.%20Collator%20Plates/Pistol_Brass_Collator_Plate_Large.stl

[TylerR]

Just been looking for a few hours on the bullet nose down slider plate development and can’t find out where it started and why there is a little wall in front of the drop hole. Is it a handle? I have never had a bullet fall forward and hit it and it is too far away to even catch a falling forward bullet anyway. So I just gots to know……what is it there for?

It keeps the nose up bullets from falling forward when traveling over the drop hole in the slide plate. It is possible that in your setup they do not fall forward. It depends on a lot of things, including bullet design and the amount of angle you are running the feeder at. The original design included a adjustable slider to serve the purpose, but I decided fixed was simpler. You can see it in action in this video.


https://vimeo.com/517852389?share=copy

[flybyjohn]

That’s what I figured but I guess with all my bullets they are about 16 mm high or shorter so by the time they would even touch the wall they would be already stuck in the hole. I did see where someone used a little piece of spring steel and stuck it into that wall with an arm that bent towards the collator plate to do that purpose.

[GWS]

I think TylerR is just checking me :-)

So for 38 and 357 brass I should go for this one ? https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/3.%20Collator%20Plates/Pistol_Brass_Collator_Plate_Large.stl

The reason for my test was that I have a thing about having more to juggle than I have to. I printed the large one first, because I load a lot of .45ACP. So then before I went to the trouble to print the small one, I wanted to see if one size would be fine for all pistol. That's why the test.....and I tested 9mm too! and with 9mm I had one or two go in the tube upside down. Small would be better for that, surely.....

My curiousity got me to even try rifle .223 on that same large pistol. It works too.....but I think the laydown small rifle version makes more sense for that. But see for yourself in the video below....it does work....and honestly if my collator is set up with the large pistol already and I wanted to feed a few .223....being the lazy soul I am, I wouldn't go to the trouble to change it out, just for a few. (this video is using the large pistol holes on Ammo Mike's tiny bullet collator, a collator even smaller than TylerR's normal, so the holes look even bigger!;))


https://youtu.be/7EBQFuuwaBQ

had to use the plate generator for that one....since I had to specify Ammo Mike's smaller plate diameter and the hole diameter, too.

I'm not much of a multi-tasker at my age, so sorry I couldn't stroke the press and keep the camera still at the same time.:)

UPDATE:
I should explain about Ammo Mike's little collator......back in the earliest days of this thread (when TylerR first started posting) we didn't have Tyler's "normal" size, we only had Mike's little base and plates.....but at least we had the plate generator....we had no clutch either, but TylerR eventually added that capability to the generator.....

TylerR gave away his original A.M. collator base, but I kept mine and still use it over my Lee APP. And I printed clutches even for those tiny plates.

My 3 progressives use Tyler R normals for bullets, except that I'm still using a modified bullet flipping Hornady Pistol bullet collator over my old RCBS Pro 2000, with a "normal" TylerR case collator above a self-made custom case feeder.

My newer ProChucker 7 and Lee Six Pack use "normal" bullet feeders and a "300" case feeder arranged to be shared (for now).

[GWS]

I have the same issue. trying to support lots of calibers I do not personally have. I did post your modified 7.62 insert.

TylerR and friends: I finished the 6.5 insert and had to fix the 7.62 insert. So you may want to erase the last one you just uploaded and replace it. Sorry but perfection eludes me by a lot. ;) I have not tested these either, but I'm pretty sure I got it right this time. As for the 6.5 I can only assume the 6.5 cutout depth is correct on the existing one for height (I repeated that cutout depth, but shaped it to prevent side movement. Let me know if I need to tweak them further.

[Kausit]

Sorry but Generator will not run on my computer so I had to print everything out by the manual and a lot of guessing, For 223/556 I printed the #2 rifle bullet collator plate. What side plate works best with avg bullets? Thanks

[GWS]

Sorry but Generator will not run on my computer so I had to print everything out by the manual and a lot of guessing, For 223/556 I printed the #2 rifle bullet collator plate. What side plate works best with avg bullets? Thanks

TylerR's been busy changing things again, I see! The #2 plate looks like a saw blade! That's a new one on me. I feel like I just woke up from a 2 year nap!:) I'll have to print one too....curious to say the least....that one snuck up on me.

He will have to tell you what you need for that, but it used to be....#2 plate used a #2 slide, unless that was a dream too....

[Kausit]

I will look at the #2 slide and take some measurements and I maybe able tell if that one will work.
The #2 with saw tooth really does pick up the 223 well and works great from what I have tested.
Thanks GWS.

[TylerR]

TylerR's been busy changing things again, I see! The #2 plate looks like a saw blade! That's a new one on me. I feel like I just woke up from a 2 year nap!:) I'll have to print one too....curious to say the least....that one sneaked up on me.

He will have to tell you what you need for that, but it used to be....#2 plate used a #2 slide, unless that was a dream too....

Those new rifle plates represent around 50 hours of R&D from me. That #2 was designed to handle .223 bullets across all bullet length/weights. Most of the testing was done with 55gr.

You can pair it up with any of the regular slide plates, or the Bullet_Nose_Up_Slide_Plate_#2_Long, which will handle longer bullets better.

Here is a video of that combo. Notice how many of the bullet slots get filled. Almost every one.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/2wfqy0v1uqwy7qwp5hj3s/IMG_2144.MOV?rlkey=jtqhy7iyi93i2rfk1us7d08rn&dl=0

[GWS]

50 hours and who knows how much PLA..... I like the result! Efficiency is good. Will be printing some, and throwing away the old......again!;)

[Kausit]

Thanks so much Tyler. My first test I could tell it worked great.

[Kausit]

Not sure that this exact unit has been shown here. This timer will take the place of the SSR and will run the motor for a preset time so that your not starting and stopping the motor every cycle of the press. I set it to feed about 4 or 5 bullets at a time. You have to use a normally closed proximity switch.
323496323497323498
I put the control box, front panel and buttons on thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6491582

Timer normal mode:
buttons left to right- 1. STOP 2. SET 3.UP 4.DOWN
button 1 in normal mode will stop the unit, press once for OFF and again for ON. NOTE if unit will not run press the
button because the unit maybe in the off mode. nothing tells you its in the off state.
button 2 short press will display current settings. button 3 & 4 do nothing in normal mode.
Timer how to Program:
press button 2 for two seconds
press button 3 till display reads P-4
press button 2 display will show OP and blink 3 times, then will display digits 000
press button 3 to adjust seconds. exp: 035
press button 1 will cycle the decimal 0.3.5./03.5/035. 03.5 seconds is what I set.
press button 2 for 2 seconds to save settings. DONE.

[TylerR]

Not sure that this exact unit has been shown here. This timer will take the place of the SSR and will run the motor for a preset time so that your not starting and stopping the motor every cycle of the press. I set it to feed about 4 or 5 bullets at a time. You have to use a normally closed proximity switch.


So it feeds 5 and waits a time, then feeds 5 more? Do you still use the proximity sensor, or is it just feeding either way?

[Kausit]

Tyler, that not how it operates, let me try to explane it better.
When bullets get lower then prox it will feed till prox stays on for the preset amount of time.
How many it actually feed depends on the amount of time vs speed of the motor. So I have mine set to feed about 4-5 bullets at a time vs without it. A lot less starting and stopping.

Example 1. if the system is empty it will feed till prox is made and continues feeding for the preset amount of time (time delay).
Example2.
A. Cycle press and bullet falls below prox.
B. Motor runs
C. Bullets fill up and make prox.
D. Timer start (preset time 3.5 sec)
E. After 3.5 sec motor stops and waits till bullets fall below prox.
F. If While the timer is counting up the bullets fall below the prox, time will clear and start counting again when the bullets make the prox.

With all this said its just a stop delay timer. Simple wiring setup and easy to have control.
Let me know if this helps. If not I may figure out how to post video.
Thanks for all you have done Tyler.

[M500]

Should function the same as the delay relay I posted last April.

Here (https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5567671&viewfull=1#post5567671)

Yours is easier to wire and has a nicer box for the buttons and display. The delay relays work well at first, but are frustrating when the hopper gets low and bullets bounce around without feeding. At that point they end up cycling more than a standard relay. Not sure which is better. Depends how well your collator plate feeds.

[Kausit]

Very similar setup. one I posted uses electronic switching and not a relay.
M500 if the bullets are low it will run till prox is made and for another 3.5 seconds (preset time). so you are right that if there are no bullets it will run for 3.5 and may not feed anymore. so, at worst case with my setup it would run one for one bullet. sounds like the one you're talking about is a little different.

filling from empty.
https://youtube.com/shorts/sqffrusAKfo?feature=share
feed after cycling press.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7l5nch4Zux8?feature=share

[M500]

I can see the difference now from your videos. The one I posted doesn't have that configuration in its firmware. As you obviously know, getting the right firmware is the key to making it work right. Reading the Chinese to English translation of the instructions definitely doesn't clarify things much.

[TylerR]

Very similar setup. one I posted uses electronic switching and not a relay.
M500 if the bullets are low it will run till prox is made and for another 3.5 seconds (preset time). so you are right that if there are no bullets it will run for 3.5 and may not feed anymore. so, at worst case with my setup it would run one for one bullet. sounds like the one you're talking about is a little different.

filling from empty.
https://youtube.com/shorts/sqffrusAKfo?feature=share
feed after cycling press.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7l5nch4Zux8?feature=share

I like the concept. Basically if it drops below the sensor feed 5 instead of 1. And for what you describe you could feed 10. I always liked the idea of two sensors but it adds a fair amount of complexity to the wiring/setup and you need to run two sensors.

[Kausit]

Tyler, you are correct. I have 3 filled. Box, buttons and faceplate. If you find it of value for others you can post them with your files. I could also post how to program it. Only takes a few seconds to do it.

[GWS]

Recognizing that I'm old and maybe denser than most, explain to me why it matters to be starting and stopping the motor every cycle of the press? So far, I'm not phased by that.....since it works so well in spite of it. Maybe it would matter if the motor wears out faster.....but at my age, I'll most likely be history before these motors quit, unless the Chinese have a built-in on/off cycle counter that craters the motor at 200 cycles or something, so they can sell you another. :) What do these things cost?

[flybyjohn]

Looks like about 6.18 on Amazon for the one shown.


I think the positive thing about it is that it makes noise less often. With my app sizer I pretty much keep up with the drops so it constantly runs anyway. I think it would be a positive addition to a loading setup though.

[Kausit]

Well for me it a little annoying and I guess i am anal about it starting and stopping so often. Its more wear and tear but is it enough to really matter for our situation? maybe not, so why do it? well, this was cheaper than just buying the SSR and give me more control. Would you want to change yours? I say not but if build one why not go this route. Most of us building this stuff like something technical anyways. Lol.
To each there own. I was just trying to give something back to the community. If it helps other fine. If it does not well... I like it.
I got mine on TEMU, 1pc DC 12V 24V Dual MOS LED Digital Time Delay Relay Trigger Cycle Timer Delay Switch Circuit Board Timing Control Module DIY $2.24
There not in stock on temu today so you would have keep checking back. took about 14 days to arrive.
also HW-0516 appears to be the same item.

[GWS]

Okay....annoyance works! I can relate to that.... :) Right now the most annoying thing in my life is fighting traffic every morning going to work. Either there are 20,000 more annoying drivers in my city than last year, or I'm losing the battle handling old age.......and then there's handling change.....that gets worse every year too......somebody please find a cure for aging.......okay I'll settle for a cure for neuropathy.

May have to buy one just to see what I'm missing......at least curiosity isn't getting weaker.

Flybyjohn: $6.18 won't break anyone either.....what remains to be seen is if it really is less annoying.....if it is, then the change is worth it.

My next and final collator base will be another normal sized one......will look into this seriously when I'm printing it....and need another E. box.

Did I miss seeing a link?