Making that Bullet Collator

[rogerandre]

Dear Team
I can see that there is no bullet feed die for 357 Mag. Everyone just using the 38 feed die ?
Best regards
Roger

[ranger391xt]

Yes, the 38 feed die also works for 357.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[doublemike]

Roger, I made an adapter to mount to an X-10. I'll get a picture of it for you

I'd be interested as well :)

[TylerR]

I don't need it for the APP.....got TylerR's quick change system......for the moving feeder on the 6000 it's pretty useful, but I have mine fixed up also with the Quick Change and it works just as good.....I bought the Norwegian product out of curiosity.....and it is a good option too, but there's nothing wrong with the quick change, and I think it still is faster to change calibers....and it works for APP too.


https://youtu.be/aOZ65zvXbJg

GWS would you be so kind as to send me your Lee 6000 mods? I will post them to the contributors folder if that is ok with you. Have some people asking about it.

[GWS]

The easiest way to get everything, parts files, and how to use them information, is to go to the "HowTo" thread I did in TheHighRoad.org

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/coupling-a-3d-case-feeder-to-a-lee-pro-6000.921742/

It has a zip file you can download in Post #5 that has the two .stl's in it. You can add the zip, the link to THR, or whatever you want to your folder. I'll find the source for you and email that too if you want it. Basically, besides your wonderful quickchange inserts, it uses a modified (different spacing requirement) insert holder, and then a support/spacer that drops into the hole in the front of the 6000 press...and holds the downtubes firm and sturdy.

The modified insert holder below:
https://i.postimg.cc/h4YmLM39/6000-insert-holder.png
The offset spacer below: This offset spacer requires a short clear thinwall tubing (size talked about in the thread) slipped over it because PLA, unsleeved, is just too rough & flimsy. The tubing over it makes it tight, yet is smooth and easy to remove from the press. Shown upside down...the top slides into the front hole on the die deck of the press casting.
https://i.postimg.cc/d3gTJtTW/6000-downtube-offset-spacer.png

The clear tubing pressed into your inserts is the important part that's covered in the thread, because it moves up and down with the stroke of the press. It's a smaller size clear thinwall tubing that slides inside the other larger one coming from the prox sensor and makes it all possible.....and remember to use a case bevel tool to bevel the top inside edge of the small tube so cases don't stick as they fall.

I do How-To's on THR for 4 reasons....First it's easy to add attachments, videos and pictures.....it becomes a separate thread not a just a post, it's archived, doesn't go away, is easy to find, I can refer interested people to it for a long time with a simple URL address, and finally, I don't "take over" somebody else's thread off topic.....like yours. ;) I know this didn't start out being your thread, but it is now, I love it, and I'm not going to mess it up if I can help it.

[GWS]

This I posted in THR.org a few months ago, but it can't help but be of use to all the 3Dprinted case/bullet collator builders here....for sure those who buy Lee Precision presses that come with their standard 9/16" thin-wall clear tube in four-ways and five-ways, and want to print 3D for them..

Rigid Clear Tubing Update!

A couple of years ago all the thinline clear tubing came in 1/16" increments and the walls were 1/32" So they telescoped into each other perfectly. They were made by (or for) another company called Lee Aquarium Supplies....and they were cheap. Then covid hit and we all know what happened to the supply line. The Lee aquarium supply company (LAS) obviously had to change suppliers....most likely having to go Chinese, and the new tubing no longer had the same quality control because they stuck metric tube in some sizes and the walls thicker, 1mm, instead of 1/32". No longer would work....So I had to punt!​

LAS Thinline 1/2"OD no longer goes inside common 9/16"OD tubes that comes with Lee's Precision's (LP's) feeder.....and 5/8"OD no longer slides over LP standard 9/16"OD. So......

I found Uxcell Metric sold by amazon and found sizes that work with said LP standard 9/16"OD.

Since 5/8" = 15.875mm and I was able to find 16mm tubing that says it measures 15mm inside. Well, 9/16" measures 14.288mm. So I figured that 15mm I.S. should work like the old 5/8" did. So here's the Amazon link. Perfect!

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Clear-Rigid-1-3ft-Tubing/dp/B0923QTYGG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1RKO6Y67O35B2&keywords=clear+rigid+pvc+tubing+16mm&qid=1693178091&sprefix=clear+rigid+pvc+tubing+16mm,aps,143&sr=8-3&th=1

So at Amazon's Uxcell page, I ordered two 15mm/16mm tubes and two 12mm/13mm tubes and they arrived in a couple of days....and BINGO! The metric tubing from Amazon/Uxcell is like it was made for Lee Precision 9/16"OD tube! For that matter is also fits LAS 9/16" OD just the same. So......

The 15mm/16mm size slides over the normal 9/16" OD L.P. tubing.
The 12mm/13mm size slides inside of the normal 9/16" OD L.P. tubing.
Pictures below:

(The Lee Precision 9/16" OD standard tube is in the middle).....notice the new thicker walled 1mm stuff has a blue tint looking on edge.
https://i.postimg.cc/NjwVwDJR/IMG-4260.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/7ZMRPzdd/IMG-4261.jpg


BTW, sharing my trial & error experience using clear tube ..... I find the fastest way to deal with cutting it and smoothing ends, is just place it over an open vise...open a little smaller than the tubing so it rests part way in the grove, hold it by hand, and use a hacksaw to cut just a little long. Then use the side surface of a bench grinder (side of wheel) to quickly smooth it. See result in the picture above.

Hope this helps those needing to use thinwall clear tubing......

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !

What adapter (STL file) should be used on top of the feed dies when connecting directly towards Spring_Adapter_11_DT.stl ?
This when running Drop_Tube_Alt_10mm.stl directly under the collator.

Best Regards
///Roger

[GWS]

Spring_Drop_Tube_Large or
Spring_Drop_Tube_Med or
Spring_Drop_Tube_Small

I printed one of each because I need them depending on the caliber....I just use the one that best fits, diameter-wise to the spring adapter above and the feed die below without creating a shelf for bullets to hang on somewhere.

There is an extra large one too that I've never printed or needed.

Maybe TylerR with his photo memory can tell you which one, instantaneously.....I'll have to research the parts drawer...;)

OK, Update: Here's a couple of old pictures: First, of the 9mm version, separated parts, second below that, picture of 3 setups, 9mm, .45, and .40. Looking...I used Medium on the 9mm and .40 and Large on the .45. Too bad I didn't have the .40 turned the same direction....not paying attention, obviously. Small_Spring_Drop_Tube? I use that for .22, .243, .270...... .270 is max.

https://i.postimg.cc/3J95xfb0/IMG_3948.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/vZ7713vd/IMG-4101.jpg

The left one using the spring adaptor 14 goes to a custom case feeder on my RCBS Pro 2000....for .45 cases...different animal, but maybe this picture is useful to copy for a quick reference.....think I'll print it and put in in my notebook for just that.....save me some time later.

[rogerandre]

Spring_Drop_Tube_Large or
Spring_Drop_Tube_Med or
Spring_Drop_Tube_Small

I printed one of each because I need them depending on the caliber....I just use the one that best fits, diameter-wise to the spring adapter above and the feed die below without creating a shelf for bullets to hang on somewhere.

There is an extra large one too that I've never printed or needed.

Maybe TylerR with his photo memory can tell you which one, instantaneously.....I'll have to research the parts drawer...;)

OK, Update: Here's a couple of old pictures: First, of the 9mm version, separated parts, second below that, picture of 3 setups, 9mm, .45, and .40. Looking...I used Medium on the 9mm and .40 and Large on the .45. Too bad I didn't have the .40 turned the same direction....not paying attention, obviously. Small_Spring_Drop_Tube? I use that for .22, .243, .270...... .270 is max.

https://i.postimg.cc/3J95xfb0/IMG_3948.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/vZ7713vd/IMG-4101.jpg

The left one using the spring adaptor 14 goes to a custom case feeder on my RCBS Pro 2000....for .45 cases...different animal, but maybe this picture is useful to copy for a quick reference.....think I'll print it and put in in my notebook for just that.....save me some time later.

Huge thanks GWS !
Works like a charm !

Was it you that created a cool "hanger" for storing the spring tubes ?

[GWS]

Nope not me....haven't even seen them yet......real observant .....not.

[rogerandre]

Well I am the one that forgot where I saw the “hanger” – actually think it was on Youtube.

How do you extend the springs so they get so beautifully even ?

[GWS]

I did what TylerR told me....Anchor one end to a vice and stretch just past where it won't spring clear back. Trial and error.....but you better have a good anchor or it'll come loose and hurt you.;)

What I did is I found a bolt that would just screw inside the spring tube then clamped them both in the bench champ...bolt head beyond. can't stretch the end in the vice so well, but I didn't need all of it....the just cut what I wanted with a dremel.

Again Trial and error, but be careful. And easy does it.....no bull in a china closet stuff.

[TylerR]

I did what TylerR told me....Anchor one end to a vice and stretch just past where it won't spring clear back. Trial and error.....but you better have a good anchor or it'll come loose and hurt you.;)

What I did is I found a bolt that would just screw inside the spring tube then clamped them both in the bench champ...bolt head beyond. can't stretch the end in the vice so well, but I didn't need all of it....the just cut what I wanted with a dremel.

Again Trial and error, but be careful. And easy does it.....no bull in a china closet stuff.

It's a bit of an art form honestly. Just go slow and don't over stretch. I haven't had one come loose and thwap me yet.

[rogerandre]

It's a bit of an art form honestly. Just go slow and don't over stretch. I haven't had one come loose and thwap me yet.

Noted gentlemen !
Do you recall how long you approximately pulled out a 1 meter spring (finished length) ?

[GWS]

Noted gentlemen !
Do you recall how long you approximately pulled out a 1 meter spring (finished length) ?

There's lots of spring diameters, wire diameters......what you ask is a moving target. But I got out two springs I use, one for 9mm and the other with .45acp and tested them to see what they measure both coil tight and stretched with spaces just a tad more than wire diameter in between. Starting with both stretched about the same (a tiny bit more than wire gauge spaces between), I marked with a red marker a single coil 2" apart, then compressed them tight and both Surprisingly measure pretty darn close to an inch.

So that's double the length after the stretch.....maybe that's a good starter idea.....so maybe you stretch 1/2 the length of the length you need? I never stretched a whole meter at a time! So no experience with that. Too unwieldy and scary for me. ;) Guess I'd be afraid of ruining the whole thing.......but you realize that you will have to stretch it longer than 2x to get it to stay at 2x. Trial and careful.

[rogerandre]

There's lots of spring diameters, wire diameters......what you ask is a moving target. But I got out two springs I use, one for 9mm and the other with .45acp and tested them to see what they measure both coil tight and stretched with spaces just a tad more than wire diameter in between. Starting with both stretched about the same (a tiny bit more than wire gauge spaces between), I marked with a red marker a single coil 2" apart, then compressed them tight and both Surprisingly measure pretty darn close to an inch.

So that's double the length after the stretch.....maybe that's a good starter idea.....so maybe you stretch 1/2 the length of the length you need? I never stretched a whole meter at a time! So no experience with that. Too unwieldy and scary for me. ;) Guess I'd be afraid of ruining the whole thing.......but you realize that you will have to stretch it longer than 2x to get it to stay at 2x. Trial and careful.

Tested and worked like a charm - Thanks !

[rogerandre]

Anyone that have created a clever setup for running 2 collators (1 for bullets and 1 for brass) using the Dillon XL750 pole mount ?
Perhaps using an offside mount ? Pictures please.

[whitepointer]

327292

Why does the slide plate have a scre hole in it ?

[GWS]

So you can adjust it out if you need to. That way you push in all the way in and it goes to your set point instead of all the way in. different applications (bullets) need different locations for them to drop correctly for to be flipped successfully.....for example the base on a boattail and a flat based bullet is a different diameter, so adjustment has to be a little different. There clear as mud? :)

[RedlegEd]

Anyone that have created a clever setup for running 2 collators (1 for bullets and 1 for brass) using the Dillon XL750 pole mount ?
Perhaps using an offside mount ? Pictures please.
Hi,
This is what I use on my XL650, which should work fine on your 750.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5702860&viewfull=1#post5702860

I can provide more pics if needed. Hope this helps,
Ed

[hermans]

I am also very interested in this type of mount. Got my collator for the boolits hanging on the side of the case feeder.......it works fine there, but it is too high up for me, would love to move it down lower.

[whitepointer]

So you can adjust it out if you need to. That way you push in all the way in and it goes to your set point instead of all the way in. different applications (bullets) need different locations for them to drop correctly for to be flipped successfully.....for example the base on a boattail and a flat based bullet is a different diameter, so adjustment has to be a little different. There clear as mud? :)

Yes thanks for confirming that. ;-)

[r4ndy]

If you mean two 3d printed collators I am using the KC10 mount from the contributors folder on git. Apologies for the sideways photo, not sure why the iPad does that.

327501

[Jaak]

Hey y'all.

I'm almost at the finish line with my HomeFree Universal Reloading System by BF556 on GitHub but I'm hoping to get some clarification on what I need to attach the Spring Tube to the Lee Six Pack Pro case feed mechanism. I've printed the 12mm spring-tube adapter that connects the spring-tube to the collator and that works fine, but now the other end is just a loose spring-tube.

[TylerR]

Hey y'all.

I'm almost at the finish line with my HomeFree Universal Reloading System by BF556 on GitHub but I'm hoping to get some clarification on what I need to attach the Spring Tube to the Lee Six Pack Pro case feed mechanism. I've printed the 12mm spring-tube adapter that connects the spring-tube to the collator and that works fine, but now the other end is just a loose spring-tube.

Check out GWS's post on the previous page.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5730110&viewfull=1#post5730110

You would need his modified APP main bracket. GWS uses clear tubing and also designed a support bracket to hold it. I am not sure if you can just connect a spring or not instead of the clear tube. Watching his video it looks like the clearances are very tight. He might be able to answer that one.

Looking again he uses a pretty ingenious method to handle the press plate/bracket moving up and down using the clear tube. Obviously a spring would be bouncing around a bit as you raise and lower it. If you check out his post he explains it in great detail.

I added GWS's parts for the mod to contributors.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/9.%20Contributors/GWS_Lee_6000_APP_Adapters.zip

[GWS]

Below: TylerR's Proximity sensor housing which I now use and prefer....my old "tee" shaped ones were not as versatile, and I broke too many.....tylerR's don't break. I would like for him to remove the two Prox housing parts in my section in "contributors"
https://i.postimg.cc/Wbbmd5sQ/IMG-4161.jpg
Below: I use them inserted directly underneath the case collators. The black spacer just above the green parts is needed only for long cases.
The bottom part under the sensor housing is only used to feed cases to my RCBS presses using a direct shot of clear tube to the case feeder mounted to the press.
https://i.postimg.cc/LXMNpCGY/Screenshot-2024-02-04-131006.png
For the Lee 6000 I use the spring parts below....then clear thinwall (not the exact ones pictured, but similar.)
https://i.postimg.cc/g2bqkf8D/IMG-4104.jpg
Below: These two on either end of the spring....then a conversion adapter to the clear tube below....see my videos in the THR how-to.
https://i.postimg.cc/6p25K0hs/10.png
Finally using adapters, I connect to the TylerR APP case drop tubes and modded (for the 6000) holder to the Lee 6000 as described in the THR thread.
https://i.postimg.cc/PqNpnnxB/IMG-4069.jpg
Below: The two parts needed to connect to the 6000.
https://i.postimg.cc/d3gTJtTW/6000-downtube-offset-spacer.pnghttps://i.postimg.cc/h4YmLM39/6000-insert-holder.png
Below is a picture of TylerR's drop tubes and holder, but for the Lee 6000 you need the holder modified to different specs, the red one pictured above. Hope this helps a little. The THR thread has additional explanation and TylerR has the stl files for the two red parts pictured above......and see the clear tubing notes I posted in a few posts above....Important.
https://i.postimg.cc/pXqPB9Gy/Tyler-R-APP-Quick-Change-parts.png

[Jaak]

This helps a lot. Time to start printing.

Thank you!

[GWS]

You are welcome. I went through the post above and the previous ones at the top of the page to try to word things better and fix typos that could confuse, so if you copied anything you might want to do that one more time....don't want to confuse anyone.;)

[whitepointer]

Dear all, What am i missing here. i cant figure what screws should be going into the clutch so that the nut is properly retained while the correct size screw passes through the body of the clutch. See picture. 327656

[TylerR]

Dear all, What am i missing here. i cant figure what screws should be going into the clutch so that the nut is properly retained while the correct size screw passes through the body of the clutch. See picture. 327656

Check out the user manual, page 10.

[sierra1911]

Dear all, What am i missing here. i cant figure what screws should be going into the clutch so that the nut is properly retained while the correct size screw passes through the body of the clutch. See picture. 327656

I used 6-32x3/4” flathead screws inserted from the bottom of the clutch and 4-40x1/4” to secure the handle.

[Jaak]

So I printed the two parts but the bolt that the original Lee brass feeder comes with does not fit into the hole of the Main Bracket. The head of the bolt fits perfectly into the cutout, but not the length of the bolt. Do I need a different bolt, or do I need to check for problems with my printer?

[whitepointer]

I used 6-32x3/4” flathead screws inserted from the bottom of the clutch and 4-40x1/4” to secure the handle.

Thank you for the measurements

[whitepointer]

Check out the user manual, page 10.

Thank you TylerR

[GWS]

So I printed the two parts but the bolt that the original Lee brass feeder comes with does not fit into the hole of the Main Bracket. The head of the bolt fits perfectly into the cutout, but not the length of the bolt. Do I need a different bolt, or do I need to check for problems with my printer?

As stated in Tyler's manual, Layer Height for the Electrical box, and collator base can be .20mm all other parts that have to fit tight tolerances should be printed at .12mm layer height. So if you printed at .20 that might be your fit problem.

I've slept a few months since I did that project, so I don't remember if Lees bolt was long enough......if it wasn't then obviously I went to Ace hardware and bought a bolt a little longer. Sorry just don't remember. Just touching all bases ..... I think you meant the hole for the bolt was tight. If so, then you probably printed at .20 not .12. If not then maybe your machine does need tuned. Another base I should touch on.......The bolt goes through the Main bracket (insert holder), and a nut under to secure it.........then you drop the Main bracket (insert holder) into the hole in the press and add another nut underneath the press mounting hole. So there is a nut on both top and bottom of the 6000 mounting hole.....otherwise the holder will be too short for the inserts to have clearance.

And BTW, if it was me, and my bolt wouldn't go through the hole the length of the insert holder, I would drill it out with a drill bit before I printed another......unless the insert won't go in either. ;)

[TylerR]

Thank you TylerR

Your welcome! a lot of the answers are covered in that manual. It is still DIY so some of it you just have to figure out, or review this thread. Pretty sure every question known to man has come up at a time or two here.

[GWS]

Your welcome! a lot of the answers are covered in that manual. It is still DIY so some of it you just have to figure out, or review this thread. Pretty sure every question known to man has come up at a time or two here.

The manual was a God Send......yes, you can review this thread....and everything has come up......but finding it in 7287 posts and 183 pages is daunting!:) I tried to make an index once.......after a few days trying, I gave it up......not dedicated enough I guess. :roll:

Maybe AI could help?????;)

[Jaak]

As stated in Tyler's manual, Layer Height for the Electrical box, and collator base can be .20mm all other parts that have to fit tight tolerances should be printed at .12mm layer height. So if you printed at .20 that might be your fit problem.

I've slept a few months since I did that project, so I don't remember if Lees bolt was long enough......if it wasn't then obviously I went to Ace hardware and bought a bolt a little longer. Sorry just don't remember. Just touching all bases ..... I think you meant the hole for the bolt was tight. If so, then you probably printed at .20 not .12. If not then maybe your machine does need tuned. Another base I should touch on.......The bolt goes through the Main bracket (insert holder), and a nut under to secure it.........then you drop the Main bracket (insert holder) into the hole in the press and add another nut underneath the press mounting hole. So there is a nut on both top and bottom of the 6000 mounting hole.....otherwise the holder will be too short for the inserts to have clearance.

And BTW, if it was me, and my bolt wouldn't go through the hole the length of the insert holder, I would drill it out with a drill bit before I printed another......unless the insert won't go in either. ;)

That's exactly what I did, drilled it out. Now it fits.

[JStuhlmiller]

Thank you for the measurements

6-32 and #6 6-32 hex nuts. i buy the 6-32 face plate screws for switch plates

[GWS]

I made a new part that couples small and large twistlock parts together to make case feeding on Lee's 6000 easy!.....using TylerR's Prox parts below the collator, fed to a spring, then to clear tubing, moving inside stationary tubing and finally to TylerR's quick change insert tubes, works super!

The need was discovered when I attempted to convert my Pro 6000 case feeder to work with TylerR's Prox switch system under the collator, which I prefer over the one I came up with. (no breakage, the fancy Tee on mine I've broken twice not being careful enough)

Videos Explain this setup:


https://youtu.be/gq-59MUuGRs


https://youtu.be/rREY8Q5UIbY

The Spring Adapter parts come with 2 separate twist lock sizes top and bottom, so the need for a coupler.....the red part in the middle between the spring adapter DT which is the small connector, and the clear tube adapter, which is the large one. Have designed 3 of them large, medium, and small as is supplied with the adapters normally used above the quick change caliber case inserts to go into the DT.

Below is a picture of the parts used......L to R:
1. RCBS_Drop_Hole_Tube_Adapter_Large which connects with the large twistlock, into one end of the New Lg.-to-Sm. twistlock coupler I printed.
(I glued into the bottom of that adapter, a short piece of 15mm/16mm size ID/OD clear tube...
2. The Lg.-to-Sm. Twistlock Coupler....the red part.
3. TylerR's #11 Spring Fittings for my 11mm I.D spring (Spring_Adapter_11_DT and Spring_Adapter_11......the green parts.) Notice the top adapter is the large twistlock and the bottom one the small twist lock.
4. TylerR's Proximity switch assembly with the #10 tube.

https://i.postimg.cc/RVgC7wpv/9mm-feed-for-Pro-6000.jpg

[GWS]

Here's the Zip with the three sizes used depending on case diameter....

328109

On my 9mm test the Medium works great.

One caveat....I never can remember how to insert labels.....the arrow is there, TylerR's logo is there, but the size was on the part of his
tube adaptor that I cut off.......where I added the big twistlok instead......So either use Magic Marker or maybe TylerR will adopt & add these and add the "S", "M", "L" to the new fat end of the part. ;)

[kostianych]

hello
After visiting my friend and watching his Dillon 750 with a working bullet and case feeders, I finally decided to hit that slippery road and print myself the feeders using Tyler's plans :)))) what a joy!!!! Everything turns out great.... well, if I don't screw up, but that is a different story :)))
Finally the final assembling moment came and I have a quick question: what is the correct way to install the slide adjuster? Ramped or Flat side up? This is for the small brass, like 9x19 :))))
Is this correct? Thanks a lot
K
328591

[TylerR]

hello
After visiting my friend and watching his Dillon 750 with a working bullet and case feeders, I finally decided to hit that slippery road and print myself the feeders using Tyler's plans :)))) what a joy!!!! Everything turns out great.... well, if I don't screw up, but that is a different story :)))
Finally the final assembling moment came and I have a quick question: what is the correct way to install the slide adjuster? Ramped or Flat side up? This is for the small brass, like 9x19 :))))
Is this correct? Thanks a lot
K
328591

Ramp side up just like you have it. The ramp is not used when feeding pistol brass, so just slide it all the way open.

[kostianych]

Thanks Tyler, a lot :) now it makes sense :))))

[MSUICEMAN]

I see a Dillon round dual mount in the contributor section.... Any way to have a dual mount version that mounts to the 1050 square tube (maybe there is one and I just don't know about it)? refurbing a 1050 and may go dual of these feeders rather than the big collator (that I am fixing) which came with the 1050 (long/short it looked like someone threw the 1050 into a muddy field and ran it over with a tractor, so its been a project).

[TylerR]

I see a Dillon round dual mount in the contributor section.... Any way to have a dual mount version that mounts to the 1050 square tube (maybe there is one and I just don't know about it)? refurbing a 1050 and may go dual of these feeders rather than the big collator (that I am fixing) which came with the 1050 (long/short it looked like someone threw the 1050 into a muddy field and ran it over with a tractor, so its been a project).

There are currently several square tube mounts. Kc10Kevin in contributors, as well as a vertical and horizontal square tube mount in the mounts folder.

[MSUICEMAN]

yeah, the square tube mounts are either singles for a vertical tube, or for a horizontal tube (supported by a square tube mounted to the vertical round tube).

I have taken a double mount (believe it was tander's) and edited it to mount to a single square vertical tube that the 1050 has. going to print it in the next day or two. we shall see.

[tdogg]

Well I finally got my Sovol SV08. It is really nice and a pretty big step up from the Ender 3 V2. I really didn't need to do anything to get it running (aside from the Z-Offset issues everyone seems to have) and I retensioned the x & y belts. I'm still waiting for the enclosure and other spare parts I ordered. Sovol really screwed up with this release. They didn't have nearly enough inventory built up. I was supposed to get this in May and just got it last week (end of July). They are supposed to be giving me a free spool of filament for waiting but I think they need to do more. Regardless it is here and it has been printing non stop for 5 days or so.

It prints comfortably twice as fast as my ender and with tuning I bet I can get it faster. I'm printing right now at 150mm/s and I think it can run up to 200mm/s with some temperature tuning. It is crazy fast and legit was able to print a Benchy in 15 mins that looked great.

Regardless, I have put together my first Mongo brass collator and setup my Rollsizer decapper to be fed by it. You were correct the M634JS motor is plenty strong and fast enough. I'm running it at about 50% power and it keeps up with the autodecapper at full speed. It is way faster than the old Dillon two speed case feeder.

I wish the bowl capacity was greater. It seems to choke with too much brass loaded and it starts to feed cases upside down. It may benefit from a steeper angle but I haven't spent any time tuning it.

I'm using the Dillon Drop Hole Clear Tube Adapter with the clear vinyl tubing that the decapper came with. It works but the vinyl tubing is thicker than the dillon clear plastic tube and the brass hangs up on it. Can I get CAD file of the drop hole adapter so I can modify it for the vinyl tubing? I plan on making the through hole smaller (so the brass can't hang up on it) and lengthening the tube holding portion so it has more retention.

329207

329208

Many thanks again for sharing this with the masses! I plan on putting together another Mongo brass feeder for my rollsizer as well. That will make brass processing really streamlined!

Cheers,
Toby

[rogerandre]

Well I finally got my Sovol SV08. It is really nice and a pretty big step up from the Ender 3 V2. I really didn't need to do anything to get it running (aside from the Z-Offset issues everyone seems to have) and I retensioned the x & y belts. I'm still waiting for the enclosure and other spare parts I ordered. Sovol really screwed up with this release. They didn't have nearly enough inventory built up. I was supposed to get this in May and just got it last week (end of July). They are supposed to be giving me a free spool of filament for waiting but I think they need to do more. Regardless it is here and it has been printing non stop for 5 days or so.

It prints comfortably twice as fast as my ender and with tuning I bet I can get it faster. I'm printing right now at 150mm/s and I think it can run up to 200mm/s with some temperature tuning. It is crazy fast and legit was able to print a Benchy in 15 mins that looked great.

Regardless, I have put together my first Mongo brass collator and setup my Rollsizer decapper to be fed by it. You were correct the M634JS motor is plenty strong and fast enough. I'm running it at about 50% power and it keeps up with the autodecapper at full speed. It is way faster than the old Dillon two speed case feeder.

I wish the bowl capacity was greater. It seems to choke with too much brass loaded and it starts to feed cases upside down. It may benefit from a steeper angle but I haven't spent any time tuning it.

I'm using the Dillon Drop Hole Clear Tube Adapter with the clear vinyl tubing that the decapper came with. It works but the vinyl tubing is thicker than the dillon clear plastic tube and the brass hangs up on it. Can I get CAD file of the drop hole adapter so I can modify it for the vinyl tubing? I plan on making the through hole smaller (so the brass can't hang up on it) and lengthening the tube holding portion so it has more retention.

329207

329208

Many thanks again for sharing this with the masses! I plan on putting together another Mongo brass feeder for my rollsizer as well. That will make brass processing really streamlined!

Cheers,
Toby

Looks cool. What autodecapper are you using ?

[tdogg]

I have the Rollsizer auto decapper. I picked it up off the staff prize table at the IPSC nationals at Rio Salado. It took a little tweaking to get it sorted (and a number of broken decapping pins) but it seems to be running well now. It run's at 3600 cases per hour and can handle dirty brass and hence was the reason for wanting a dedicated Mongo brass collator to feed it. I don't have to worry about dirty brass contaminating my Dillon collator on the S1050.

I reverse engineered the drop tube adapter and made the adjustments so brass doesn't hang up on the vinyl drop tubing any more. I processed a ~5 gallon bucket of 9mm last night without issue. The Mongo feeder seems to have about 1 out of every 750 cases fed upside down (case head up). The decapper just stops but you have to be there to shut it off and clear the jam. The FW Arms decapper will pierce the primer if the case feeds upside down, it's beefy. The Mongo feeder definitely runs plenty fast to feed the decapper. It can run faster than the drop funnel can feed them down the tube!

What is needed to get parts I created for this effort in the contributors folder? I have the vinyl drop tube adapter, electronics box variants, and other stuff I could share if desired.

Cheers,
Toby

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
Anyone that have been working with enhanced feed pawls for the Lee APP ? Feed pawls that gives the case additional support to minimize the cases tipping over.

[TylerR]

Dear Team !
Anyone that have been working with enhanced feed pawls for the Lee APP ? Feed pawls that gives the case additional support to minimize the cases tipping over.

In the project and manual page 16, part B.

[TylerR]

Well I finally got my Sovol SV08. It is really nice and a pretty big step up from the Ender 3 V2. I really didn't need to do anything to get it running (aside from the Z-Offset issues everyone seems to have) and I retensioned the x & y belts. I'm still waiting for the enclosure and other spare parts I ordered. Sovol really screwed up with this release. They didn't have nearly enough inventory built up. I was supposed to get this in May and just got it last week (end of July). They are supposed to be giving me a free spool of filament for waiting but I think they need to do more. Regardless it is here and it has been printing non stop for 5 days or so.

It prints comfortably twice as fast as my ender and with tuning I bet I can get it faster. I'm printing right now at 150mm/s and I think it can run up to 200mm/s with some temperature tuning. It is crazy fast and legit was able to print a Benchy in 15 mins that looked great.

Regardless, I have put together my first Mongo brass collator and setup my Rollsizer decapper to be fed by it. You were correct the M634JS motor is plenty strong and fast enough. I'm running it at about 50% power and it keeps up with the autodecapper at full speed. It is way faster than the old Dillon two speed case feeder.

I wish the bowl capacity was greater. It seems to choke with too much brass loaded and it starts to feed cases upside down. It may benefit from a steeper angle but I haven't spent any time tuning it.

I'm using the Dillon Drop Hole Clear Tube Adapter with the clear vinyl tubing that the decapper came with. It works but the vinyl tubing is thicker than the dillon clear plastic tube and the brass hangs up on it. Can I get CAD file of the drop hole adapter so I can modify it for the vinyl tubing? I plan on making the through hole smaller (so the brass can't hang up on it) and lengthening the tube holding portion so it has more retention.

329207

329208

Many thanks again for sharing this with the masses! I plan on putting together another Mongo brass feeder for my rollsizer as well. That will make brass processing really streamlined!

Cheers,
Toby

Steeper angle is the answer, and the wall extender. Also make sure no crows feet from printing, which can cause cases to hang up. There are vinyl tubing adapters, and I can provide the original design but it is in DSM.

[rogerandre]

In the project and manual page 16, part B.

Thanks TylerR
I am using the enhanced slide - works like a charm. Was thinking about an enhanced version of these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4257106

[TylerR]

Thanks TylerR
I am using the enhanced slide - works like a charm. Was thinking about an enhanced version of these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4257106

I tried those but did not have good luck with them. That is why I designed the slide to provide more support at the bottom of the case.

[rogerandre]

I tried those but did not have good luck with them. That is why I designed the slide to provide more support at the bottom of the case.

Thanks. Then I will just run as is.

[Falconpunch]

Needing a little help. I printed off a few adapters but haven't been able to find one. Looking for the adapter that goes from Dillon tube to bullet feeder die top. Drop_Hole_Drop_Tube_Adapter.stl almost works only if there were double sided of the smaller notches.

Also when I use the 12mm offset, something keeps catching in bullets at the bullet feeder die top, I'm not sure why it keeps happening.

[RHohman]

Been laid up from a back injury,however I kept reading the posts here. I made the new .223 collator plate and the tapered spring adapters. Once I got the slide plate set right on the bucket not a single nose down bullet. I filled every hole with an upside down bullet and it flipped them all. Want to thank you TyleR that plate is bad ass and works so good! I would get the occasional jam at the bullet hole drop with 45acp and with the new spring adapter that issue went away. So Thanks for the 50 hours of doing and redoing those parts!

[Raahon]

Hi,
please forgive any ignorance. I seem to have trouble getting my proximity sensor to work while attached the drop tube. I tested my sensor by itself and when metal is detected it correctly shuts off the motor. However when using it as designed it only intermittently seems to work. I am attaching some pictures of how I have it setup; hoping it is something as simple as I connected it to the drop tube incorrectly. In the picture I have it attached to the collator I use for brass and am using DAA large spring attached to a 12 mm drop tube while processing 9mm brass. I am using the sensor recommend in the user manual; autonics PRD18-14DN2.

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329560
329561

[TylerR]

Hi,
please forgive any ignorance. I seem to have trouble getting my proximity sensor to work while attached the drop tube. I tested my sensor by itself and when metal is detected it correctly shuts off the motor. However when using it as designed it only intermittently seems to work. I am attaching some pictures of how I have it setup; hoping it is something as simple as I connected it to the drop tube incorrectly. In the picture I have it attached to the collator I use for brass and am using DAA large spring attached to a 12 mm drop tube while processing 9mm brass. I am using the sensor recommend in the user manual; autonics PRD18-14DN2.


The sensor has to be pushed all the way in to the housing so it touches the flat part of the drop tube firmly. Your's can not go all the way in because of where you have the lock nut on the sensor.

[MSUICEMAN]

Also make sure that the sensor housing that mounts to the drop tube is the correct way up, one side has cutouts so it sits a bit lower, over the light sensor opening, the other side does not and if you put that side down it will cause a misalignment between the elsensor and the flat it is meant to sit against.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Raahon]

Thanks all for the advice, previously I had tried without the lock nut and didn’t get it to work so I tried with the lock nut to tighten it again the flat part but maybe it wasn’t close enough. I then tried again without the lock nut as suggested and seem to have better luck as I must have had the orientation wrong. It seems to work most of the time which is much better than before. Thank you TylerR and MSUICEMAN for your assistance.

[Derrin]

Hi guys,

I printed this up a few months back and it has been quite impressive. Just recently I was trying to drop a 200 grain cast lead BBSWC for .45 APC ( an H&G #68 or SAECO 64068 clone) but it's jamming the collator and not running well. Seems to be 2 issues, they are 'clogging' the plate where they won't drop clear and they are having a difficult time being flipped to the base down position. I'm using the .STL generated by the Java configurator. I tried printing it again with a slightly larger hole size but that didn't work either. I'll try to get some pictures and video as soon as I can but is anyone else running this bullet and if so, what's your config?

Cheers,
Derrin

[Falconpunch]

Back from Vaca with pictures now.

1st pic. Is there an adapter that attaches the Dillon tube to the bullet drop tube? I have printed out several adapters and can't get one to fit.

https://i.imgur.com/byRyS9nl.png

2nd pic. My 9mm bullets get stuck in the little curve part of this adapter. Am I using the wrong one or should I be using something that just increases the height so it's not hitting the powder drop bar (I am using DAA's bar)?

https://i.imgur.com/5Wt5EmZl.png

[TylerR]

Back from Vaca with pictures now.

1st pic. Is there an adapter that attaches the Dillon tube to the bullet drop tube? I have printed out several adapters and can't get one to fit.

2nd pic. My 9mm bullets get stuck in the little curve part of this adapter. Am I using the wrong one or should I be using something that just increases the height so it's not hitting the powder drop bar (I am using DAA's bar)?


We do not have anything that goes direct from dillon clear tube to drop tube, but I would ask why? Are you feeding brass? you don't need a drop tube if feeding from a dillon collator. you would go straight from the clear tube to the dillon brass insert supplied with the press.

For the offset adapter, you are going to want to do some post processing on the inside. Round file, sand paper, acetone to smooth it out.

[Falconpunch]

We do not have anything that goes direct from dillon clear tube to drop tube, but I would ask why? Are you feeding brass? you don't need a drop tube if feeding from a dillon collator. you would go straight from the clear tube to the dillon brass insert supplied with the press.

For the offset adapter, you are going to want to do some post processing on the inside. Round file, sand paper, acetone to smooth it out.

I was manually feeding bullets into the drop tube until I get the offset adapter working. Thought about using the Dillon tube so I could put even more bullets in.

[r4ndy]

For 9mm I got the short DAA powder bar, a little more money, but no interference.

[TylerR]

I was manually feeding bullets into the drop tube until I get the offset adapter working. Thought about using the Dillon tube so I could put even more bullets in.

Took another look at your pic and realized you are using a 11mm dt and 12mm offset for 9mm. Those are a bit large. I usually go with 9mm drop tube and 10mm offset. The 12mm offset could be contributing to the jamming because it allows bullets to be more sideways.

[sasquatch19]

I've been enjoying, but not following closely this huge thread. I downloaded the project and manual and tried to follow along. I did contribute some things to the manual but looks like it wasn't incorporated.

But- I will try to participate in a different way. I've been doing some coding on a raspberry pi and set up a motor controller and sensor reader to control it through a touchscreen.

I posted it up here (and need to do some edits): http://racing.rougetide.com/2024/07/reloading-raspberry-pi-controller.html

Feel free to contact me with feedback or questions!

[TylerR]

I've been enjoying, but not following closely this huge thread. I downloaded the project and manual and tried to follow along. I did contribute some things to the manual but looks like it wasn't incorporated.

But- I will try to participate in a different way. I've been doing some coding on a raspberry pi and set up a motor controller and sensor reader to control it through a touchscreen.

I posted it up here (and need to do some edits): http://racing.rougetide.com/2024/07/reloading-raspberry-pi-controller.html

Feel free to contact me with feedback or questions!

That is very creative. Over kill for me, but definitely cool.
Not sure what you were looking to add to the manual, but let me know here and I will consider it.

[MSUICEMAN]

That is very creative. Over kill for me, but definitely cool.
Not sure what you were looking to add to the manual, but let me know here and I will consider it.I could see some utility if you can split screen it with an endoscope/camera that is used for QA when loading. And I have a few pis sitting around.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I could see some utility if you can split screen it with an endoscope/camera that is used for AA when loading. And I have a few pis sitting around.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

definitely. I love that people are looking to contribute, and that took some effort.

[sasquatch19]

Yes, for just turning on the motors, overkill. But more plans coming- I'm going to make a bullet and brass case sorter that I'll also run from it. Plus web cams, remote control, etc.

[torpedo2k]

Been away for a while. I have run > 10K of 9mm through this collator. It works great! Thanks again to all the contributors.

Switching to 30-06 now. I have always done them individually and slowly. Just got a bulk load of brass and want to run it through the collator to feed my decapper and then head stamp sorter.

I search this thread for 30-06 and came up with nothing. Any suggestions on which plate to use? Rifle_Brass_Collator_Plate_Large.stl?

[sasquatch19]

I could see some utility if you can split screen it with an endoscope/camera that is used for QA when loading.

Something like this? :)
330149

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !

Anyone that have experimented with the optimal collator bowl angles for 9 mm and 223 brass ?

[lewis1914]

I made a circuit board for the inductive circuit. It is not the fanciest board out there but it works. It is made so that you can use 5mm screw terminals or you could solder the wires straight to the board.

The screw terminals I used are: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088LVP6ML?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

This is the proof image.
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This is a completed board.
330248

It fits in the small box.



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There is only printing on one side of the board, so I assembled it upside down so I could read the writing. It works either way. Some industrious soul is welcome to add larger printing to the bottom of the board.

The attached zip file (gerber) is what you need to send to the PCB board manufacturer.

I used a place called https://jlcpcb.com/
They made me 5 boards and it took a couple of weeks for them to arrive. The total cost including shipping was $3.69. That was 2 bucks for the boards, a buck and a half shipping, and 19 cents in tax.

Link to video of the assembled board.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/vIY4-RjDdyE

[MSUICEMAN]

That is awesome. I'm definitely not a wiring expert, but made leaps in technique and knowledge from collator one to two. I may try this on three.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[jamg]

I've had the chance to print two of the projects. One for 9mm coated bullets, and one for 9mm brass. I've been able to get the bullet feeder to near 100% at this point, but I struggle with getting the other one to feed 9mm brass reliably. I have two common, main jams.

The first, a piece of brass drops into the brass drop hole adapter, but not straight, and ends up blocking the opening and piling brass up until it jams the collator.

The second jam is when the brass turn sideways in the collator after the drop tube and lodges itself against the main body.

I think tilting the body more might prevent the second jam, but I am at a loss on how to prevent the first.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[MSUICEMAN]

I have a few of these. I don't think brass should ever get hung up in the chute for brass collating. Maybe your print needs to be cleaned up? I've dropped 10s of thousands of pieces between 223/9x19/45. maybe there is an assembly issue causing the backup like brass getting hung up on an edge that needs to be cleaned up or something?

Have a picture of your setup anday e up.close of the drop adapter/chute?

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[jamg]

Sure let me grab some

330389330390

[MSUICEMAN]

I'm wondering if there is a edge at the chute to spring adapter interface that is sometimes catching the brass as it drops. Which then causes the pile up. Maybe ream those pieces and make sure there isn't any possible obstruction.

Steve

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I'm wondering if there is a edge at the chute to spring adapter interface that is sometimes catching the brass as it drops. Which then causes the pile up. Maybe ream those pieces and make sure there isn't any possible obstruction.

Steve

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Bingo. As GWS has said many times, make sure there are no edges / ridges or other obstructions. That applies to from the drop hole all the way down. Can also happen if using a spring that does not fit the spring adapter well.

[jamg]

I'm wondering if there is a edge at the chute to spring adapter interface that is sometimes catching the brass as it drops. Which then causes the pile up. Maybe ream those pieces and make sure there isn't any possible obstruction.

Steve

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


Bingo. As GWS has said many times, make sure there are no edges / ridges or other obstructions. That applies to from the drop hole all the way down. Can also happen if using a spring that does not fit the spring adapter well.

Thank you both, I'll take a look at that. The brass is getting turned at the green funnel directly off the main body. Or maybe reprint at a better resolution.

[TylerR]

Thank you both, I'll take a look at that. The brass is getting turned at the green funnel directly off the main body. Or maybe reprint at a better resolution.

sandpaper will take care of any resolution issues. if you can shoot a video of the jam occurring and post it, I could diagnose it rather quickly.

[jamg]

sandpaper will take care of any resolution issues. if you can shoot a video of the jam occurring and post it, I could diagnose it rather quickly.

I opened up the opening at the bottom of the funnel with a file and smoothed out some of the ridges towards the bottom. It's difficult to get a video of the jam occurring as while it occurs relatively frequently to be annoying, but at the same time it's not consistent. On the next batch of brass I'll try to get a video if I can recreate it.

[r4ndy]

JAMG - have you tried slowing down and/or putting less brass in the collator? I typically put no more than a 200-250 9mm in the brass collator at a time. When I put more in I will get the occasional jam.

[jamg]

JAMG - have you tried slowing down and/or putting less brass in the collator? I typically put no more than a 200-250 9mm in the brass collator at a time. When I put more in I will get the occasional jam.

Thank you, yes I've run it at the slowest I can and also faster, can't seem to find a sweet spot in terms of speed. In terms of how much, I don't think even that much in the collator at a time. We'll have to see on the next batch of brass.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team,

Anyone else that is experiencing jams in the unused holes when feeding 223 brass ?
Anyone that have a cool STL for a plug for the holes ? Right now I am using a hex M3 but still get jams.
330579

[jamg]

I've run through a quite a few and it looks like cleaning up the funnel and smooth the area out a bit with the file has increased the reliability of feeding quite a bit.

Are there any tips in speeding the actual feeding? I notice that a lot of the slots on the small pistol plate ends up being empty. I notice that using the large pistol plate seems to work a little faster than the small pistol plate, but introduces some other jams. I was thinking perhaps opening the small pistol plate slots a bit or maybe creating a bit of a taper on the plate. Curious if anyone has some experience or modifications that have worked?

EDIT: in doing some searching it looks like a lot of people use the large pistol plate for 9mm. I got a weird jam where the brass is facing forward and catching on the main body. I'll try to get a photo of this the next time it happens, or I'll check if there is a bur there.

EDIT 2: the jamming of of the brass towards the top of the plate and the main body appears to be slightly alleviated by tilting the main body more. I still do get an occasional jam, but it seems like it's reduced.

[rogerandre]

I've run through a quite a few and it looks like cleaning up the funnel and smooth the area out a bit with the file has increased the reliability of feeding quite a bit.

Are there any tips in speeding the actual feeding? I notice that a lot of the slots on the small pistol plate ends up being empty. I notice that using the large pistol plate seems to work a little faster than the small pistol plate, but introduces some other jams. I was thinking perhaps opening the small pistol plate slots a bit or maybe creating a bit of a taper on the plate. Curious if anyone has some experience or modifications that have worked?

EDIT: in doing some searching it looks like a lot of people use the large pistol plate for 9mm. I got a weird jam where the brass is facing forward and catching on the main body. I'll try to get a photo of this the next time it happens, or I'll check if there is a bur there.

EDIT 2: the jamming of of the brass towards the top of the plate and the main body appears to be slightly alleviated by tilting the main body more. I still do get an occasional jam, but it seems like it's reduced.

I have tested various tilts but with a higher tilt I get standing jams. 9 mm work MUCH better. 223 is where I get most jams. The 223 neck fits close to perfect in the holes in the main body.
330635
330636

[TylerR]

Dear Team,

Anyone else that is experiencing jams in the unused holes when feeding 223 brass ?
Anyone that have a cool STL for a plug for the holes ? Right now I am using a hex M3 but still get jams.
330579

Those holes were moved in the latest versions. I have used heavy duty packing tap, duct tape to cover the hole if that is happening.