Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

Tyler,

I need a favor. Can you remove the ridge from the APP_Bullet_Slide_223, whenever the boolits fall base down instead of base up they always get stuck on the ridge and I have to use a flathead screwdriver to lift them up a little. This actually applies to all of the plates but I just need the 223 right now.

298256

Appreciate it.

TylerR may be tied up somewhere, maybe I can help, tho. Look at the picture below.....not sure what you mean, but either one of those right for you? or even a rounded edge? I've never used those, so not sure how the bullets act. I doubt you can keep a base-down from falling, but a tipping problem that causes a hang most likely needs zero divot, zero chamfer to stop it. It won't likely tip if the point drops into mid air, rather than down a ramp. But I could be wrong......that's happened more than once or twice. ;)

Making either change takes only two commands, selecting and deleting. Then converting to .stl and either TylerR putting it in the database or you could pm me your email and I could send it to you. Simple as that. Then you might let TylerR know if and why it works....

https://i.postimg.cc/t4rpNb4X/223-slides.png

Another thought.....what about a deep chamfer.

https://i.postimg.cc/dQ9XyB1F/app-slide-section.png

[TylerR]

Tyler,

I need a favor. Can you remove the ridge from the APP_Bullet_Slide_223, whenever the boolits fall base down instead of base up they always get stuck on the ridge and I have to use a flathead screwdriver to lift them up a little. This actually applies to all of the plates but I just need the 223 right now.

298256

Appreciate it.

Sure. I always sand that part down to be nice and smooth, which prevents boolits from sticking. Just curious if you did that, and also what resolution you printed at. Can you post a video of the issue in action?

[TylerR]

TylerR may be tied up somewhere, maybe I can help, tho. Look at the picture below.....not sure what you mean, but either one of those right for you? or even a rounded edge? I've never used those, so not sure how the bullets act. I doubt you can keep a base-down from falling, but a tipping problem that causes a hang most likely needs zero divot, zero chamfer to stop it. It won't likely tip if the point drops into mid air, rather than down a ramp. But I could be wrong......that's happened more than once or twice. ;)

Making either change takes only two commands, selecting and deleting. Then converting to .stl and either TylerR putting it in the database or you could pm me your email and I could send it to you. Simple as that. Then you might let TylerR know if and why it works....

https://i.postimg.cc/t4rpNb4X/223-slides.png

Another thought.....what about a deep chamfer.

https://i.postimg.cc/dQ9XyB1F/app-slide-section.png

These guys are going to have to start paying you consulting fees. :)

[TylerR]

Thanks!
Next stupid question.... How did you fasten down the boards(Optic control, motor control) in the electronics box or do you just let them hang in there?
Thanks

Just stuff them in there!

[stanford]

Another thought.....what about a deep chamfer.



Appreciate the feedback GWS, I was going to just make my own but I decided to look on thingiverse and saw that someone had already solved the issues that I was having so I went with those bullet sliders instead.

The first issue I had was the bullets sticking if it went base down, with this ramp it never sticks. Base down sitting on base up as it falls through the tube makes it stick in that groove, sanding or not it still gets stuck.

Second is if a bullet falls base down into the sizing die that I am using the tip of the bullet sticks up a good amount, (sometimes) and the slider gets stuck because you cannot pull it back from the bullet that's sticking up.

298341


Appreciate the help but its working pretty good now base up or down.

[GWS]

These guys are going to have to start paying you consulting fees. :)

Right............like we do you......and your consulting is worth a gold piece at least. :)

As for Sanfords problem, I think I'm going to print me the one with the deep chamfer......he got me curious.......personally I don't like anything that can encourage tipping.....which the one he found and printed looks to be doing.....I don't personally like short bevel chamfers for that reason either....and is why I did vastly better by sanding Lee's bevels off. So I'd like to see a video of that one working....

I'm on a out of town trip tonight, so it'll have to wait til I get home and til I get my stupid printer back working....haven't had time to test my "fix" on it yet......consisting of drilling 4 pinholes and sticking a long straight pin though it, to stop the micro switch from sliding over the filament line and opening when it shouldn't....(to fix sloppy Creality design of the filament sensor box.)

As for Sanford's comment, "the tip of the bullet sticks up a good amount, (sometimes) and the slider gets stuck because you cannot pull it back from the bullet that's sticking up"....geeze.... that sounds like the slider is too short for the bullet he's using. Seems to me that the slider needs to be at least as tall as any bullet you might use.

So Tyler, where have you been hiding? Hope you've been doing quality time with your wife and kids.....that beats wasting it with old geezers like me.

I can't believe I'm lying in a motel room in Albuquerque tonight, expecting to wake up tomorrow with snowy roads to drive home on......end of March no less. Global warming? What a crock of you know what....

[TylerR]

Right............like we do you......and you consulting is worth a gold piece at least. :)

As for Sanfords problem, I think I'm going to print me the one with the deep chamfer......he got me curious.......personally I don't like anything that can encourage tipping.....which the one he found and printed looks to be doing.....I don't personally like short bevel chamfers for that reason either....and is why I did vastly better by sanding Lee's bevels off. So I'd like to see a video of that one working....

I'm on a out of town trip tonight, so it'll have to wait til I get home and til I get my stupid printer back working....haven't had time to test my "fix" on it yet......consisting of drilling 4 pinholes and sticking a long straight pin though it, to stop the micro switch from sliding over the filament line and opening when it shouldn't....(to fix sloppy Creality design of the filament sensor box.)

As for Sanford's comment, "the tip of the bullet sticks up a good amount, (sometimes) and the slider gets stuck because you cannot pull it back from the bullet that's sticking up"....geeze.... that sounds like the slider is too short for the bullet he's using. Seems to me that the slider needs to be at least as tall as any bullet you might use.

So Tyler, where have you been hiding? Hope you've been doing quality time with your wife and kids.....that beats wasting it with old geezers like me.

I can't believe I'm lying in a motel room in Albuquerque tonight, expecting to wake up tomorrow with snowy roads to drive home on......end of March no less. Global warming? What a crock of you know what....

I have been in work hell. And when I am not there it is endless kid sports obligations. Being baseball commissioner for the town is a ton of work this time of year, and for a volunteer position people seem to expect professional service. That said I have some emails of yours that need responding to. :)

As far as the bullet slide design, I do see one useful change that I just made. Made a cutout in the front of the slide so that when boolits go in base down the slide can still retract backwards and not get stuck. I am still at a loss on why the little ramp is an issue. especially when the alternative that was posted also has a ramp. As you said, the ramp can easily be removed, but I would need to see a demo of the problem in action.

[GWS]

I have been in work hell. And when I am not there it is endless kid sports obligations. Being baseball commissioner for the town is a ton of work this time of year, and for a volunteer position people seem to expect professional service. That said I have some emails of yours that need responding to. :)

As far as the bullet slide design, I do see one useful change that I just made. Made a cutout in the front of the slide so that when boolits go in base down the slide can still retract backwards and not get stuck. I am still at a loss on why the little ramp is an issue. especially when the alternative that was posted also has a ramp. As you said, the ramp can easily be removed, but I would need to see a demo of the problem in action.

I can relate to both the work hell, and the sports obligations.....sent you an email with a picture or two on the subject since it would be slightly off topic here.....:) I coached for 16 years I think. Yes, coached my two boys from 8 to 15 years old and all the years between. Do it as long as you can. Makes lots of good memories for when you get my age.

[thump_rrr]

Has anyone collated 357 Mag. brass successfully?
If so, which plate was used?
My factory Hornady case feeder absolutely sucks at it.
I have no issue with 9mm, .40, .45ACP, .223, 308, 30-06

[TylerR]

Has anyone collated 357 Mag. brass successfully?
If so, which plate was used?
My factory Hornady case feeder absolutely sucks at it.
I have no issue with 9mm, .40, .45ACP, .223, 308, 30-06

GWS posted video of that a few pages back. at hyper speed even.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5369971&viewfull=1#post5369971

[GWS]

GWS posted video of that a few pages back. at hyper speed even.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5369971&viewfull=1#post5369971

Just a couple of observations I noticed by the experience:

1. Angle angle angle. The base angle needs to be experimented with....it's fairly steep, but obviously with the long .357 case and the thin plate, the .357's might topple.....but they didn't, even at that test speed.

2. The thin plates were actually the best part. Thicker plates could and would, for sure at that speed, catch cases. In fact as you had to notice, the measely short 9mm, during its demo run, did in fact catch a single case at that speed. Why the 9mm and not the .357? I decided to play it in Youtube in slow motion to see.....and was surprised again. In fact, the 9mm dropped several times base up! But none of them arrived below base up. Therefore their base weight had to have turned them in the funnel!! Amazing. Did not expect that. Yet the reason for that hang was still not obvious, but I doubt it would have happened at a slower speed.

If you use the adjustable slide at the front, just be sure to make it as wide as it allows......or print the non-adjustable fully open one, if TylerR has added it.

[thump_rrr]

GWS posted video of that a few pages back. at hyper speed even.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5369971&viewfull=1#post5369971
Thanks.

I’ve been away for a while and now I’m thoroughly confused.
Is the 300mm the Mongo or is there now another size of collator?

[azlester]

There are 3 versions... the original, 300mm and the Mongo. The 300 is between the original and the Mongo. The mongo is the largest.

[thump_rrr]

There are 3 versions... the original, 300mm and the Mongo. The 300 is between the original and the Mongo. The mongo is the largest.
This is incorrect, the original had a 147.5mm plate size which seems to have been removed.
What you are calling the "Original " has a 179.5mm plate size.

So in reality there are 4 different sizes which is why I am confused.

The question remains what build plate size is required for each of the new sizes?

[GWS]

Ammo Mike's is the smallest, and TylerR was inspired by it to produce three bigger sizes, along with the many enhancements for them including the clutch feature.

So now, the original in the downloads is TylerR's original. The Mongo came next inspired by TylerR's new big Creality machine with it's 350mm square bed.

The original (TylerR's) was barely able to be printed on the normal Creality Enders. The 300mm size was created for us who print on 300x300mm beds, like my CR-10 v2. Affectionately called the "just right" by some like me, since I can't print the Mongo on my printer.

The parts are listed by size in the downloads. If there are no "size" descriptions like, "Mongo" or "300" then they go with TylerR's original size not AmmoMike's smaller original. (in

One thing TylerR did for the lazy to learn, like me ;), was to generate plates for just about everything on every size. But the plate generator is still included for those who need or want to vary from the ones already created. AmmoMike's smaller plates can still be generated using the generator, originally created by AmmoMike, if you can find his original generator, but the ones already generated on TylerR's downloads are for his 3 models.

I must add, that TylerR has added many options to the generator that AmmoMike did not provide in his.....obviously needed for the bigger collators, plus the wonderful clutch feature. That said, TylerR would be the first to say that we all owe a lot to AmmoMike for his efforts and vision.

Update: In the plate generator, the first parameter listed is plate size.....there are three, small, medium, and large......tyler's original, the 300 and Mongo.

[thump_rrr]

Ammo Mike's is the smallest, and TylerR was inspired by it to produce three bigger sizes, along with the many enhancements for them including the clutch feature.

So now, the original in the downloads is TylerR's original. The Mongo came next inspired by TylerR's new big Creality machine with it's 350mm square bed.

The original (TylerR's) was barely able to be printed on the normal Creality Enders. The 300mm size was created for us who print on 300x300mm beds, like my CR-10 v2. Affectionately called the "just right" by some like me, since I can't print the Mongo on my printer.

The parts are listed by size in the downloads. If there are no "size" descriptions like, "Mongo" or "300" then they go with TylerR's original size not AmmoMike's smaller original.

One thing TylerR did for the lazy to learn, like me ;), was to generate plates for just about everything on every size. But the plate generator is still included for those who need or want to vary from the ones already created. AmmoMike's smaller plates can still be generated using that generator, originally created by AmmoMike, but the ones already generated on TylerR's downloads are for his 3 models.

I must add, that TylerR has added many options to the generator that AmmoMike did not provide.....obviously needed for the bigger collators, plus the wonderful clutch feature. That said, TylerR would be the first to say that we all owe a lot to AmmoMike for his efforts and vision.
I’m aware of the enhancements such as the clutch which I had suggested.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5096122&viewfull=1#post5096122

I’ve simply been away too long and things seem to change very rapidly.
Off to find a printer with a 350mm x 350mm bed.

[GWS]

One thing I left out......AmmoMike's plate diameter is not one of the three options listed in TylerR's version of the generator...small (T_origin), medium (300), large (Mongo). To print AmmoMike's size, specify 147.5mm for plate diameter, instead of the listed options.

I probably won't ever have at 350mm capable printer to print Mongo, but the 300 is ample for rifle cases I collate....the biggest for me is .308. Here is the 300 size compared to the T_original:

https://i.postimg.cc/RVsb7SNh/IMG_3997.jpg

[RedBarachetta]

If you want to see what I had for the tube setup, the video in the manual shows it pretty well. Here is a picture of what I am doing now.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j26wb1kcvclil5k/IMG_1570.JPG?raw=1

I see you mounted your APP collator on a pipe. Roughly how high off of the bench are you mounting that? Does anyone have a good picture showing it mounted?

[45acp]

This is my setup.
Works pretty well :)
https://i.postimg.cc/13tj16h3/IMG-20220403-235507.jpg (https://postimg.cc/N5341Kj3)

[azlester]

Just to confrim... the 2 screws needed for the hex clutch are #6-32x 1/2 inch? Looks like it is set up for flat head screws... correct?

[MSUICEMAN]

Just to confrim... the 2 screws needed for the hex clutch are #6-32x 1/2 inch? Looks like it is set up for flat head screws... correct?Yes, correct

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[azlester]

MSUICEMAN
Thank you!

[45acp]

I have a question.
Would it be possible to make this adapter with a slight steeper angle?
I size .452 SWC and sometimes bullets jams where the spring begins.
I have tried keeping the main body less angled but that causes the bullets not fall back on the collator plate when not dropped, and the amount of bullets adds up to the point that they fall out (they just stands there on their fat base :))
And if i move the collator backward the angle is on the other end of the spring at the case feeder.
https://i.ibb.co/TwCjtfZ/IMG-20220404-075343.jpg (https://ibb.co/sgBxqfh)

[TylerR]

I have a question.
Would it be possible to make this adapter with a slight steeper angle?
I size .452 SWC and sometimes bullets jams where the spring begins.
I have tried keeping the main body less angled but that causes the bullets not fall back on the collator plate when not dropped, and the amount of bullets adds up to the point that they fall out (they just stands there on their fat base :))
And if i move the collator backward the angle is on the other end of the spring at the case feeder.


Something like this?
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Drop_Hole_Adapter_Angled.stl

I have not printed or tested it.

[45acp]

Something like this?
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Drop_Hole_Adapter_Angled.stl

I have not printed or tested it.

Will print and test it.
Will let you know ;)

[GWS]

Something like this?
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Drop_Hole_Adapter_Angled.stl

I have not printed or tested it.

Ha Ha! Took you all of 5 minutes to come up with that? I was thinking about how to mod the part below it.....that's why TylerR gets the big bucks. ;) Also, with my DesignSpark skills it would have taken me all day.

[TylerR]

Will print and test it.
Will let you know ;)

Make sure you align the bottom to build plate. looks like it is slightly off.

[TylerR]

Ha Ha! Took you all of 5 minutes to come up with that? I was thinking about how to mod the part below it.....that's why TylerR gets the big bucks. ;) Also, with my DesignSpark skills it would have taken me all day.

:) I think that was also the intent of 45acp. Would be a more difficult part to mod, would be very awkward twisting it in, and there are 10+versions of it, instead of one.

Just threw one on the printer.

[TylerR]

I’m aware of the enhancements such as the clutch which I had suggested.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5096122&viewfull=1#post5096122

I’ve simply been away too long and things seem to change very rapidly.
Off to find a printer with a 350mm x 350mm bed.

my opinion is that Mongo is a bit overkill. 300mm is perfect for cases or bullets, which is why I named it Just Right. And yes, AM's used 147.5mm plates. You can still create those with the generator, but they are not part of my project. The "original" collator I designed uses 179.5 plates.

[GWS]

:) I think that was also the intent of 45acp. Would be a more difficult part to mod, would be very awkward twisting it in, and there are 10+versions of it, instead of one.

Just threw one on the printer.

I agree that part is the best one to modify, but you still might end up with 2 or at most 3 different angle versions, which is better than 10.;) Good job.

[TylerR]

I agree that part is the best one to modify, but you still might end up with 2 or at most 3 different angle versions, which is better than 10.;) Good job.

One size fits all!

[45acp]

Make sure you align the bottom to build plate. looks like it is slightly off.

Printed and tested.
No jams yet after testing 200 bullets.
Got it align now. I use some thicker screws causing plastic pushed out underneath on the previuos one.
Thanks! Great work!
More "natural" travel for the bullets now.
https://i.ibb.co/G9F4sHv/IMG-20220405-072743.jpg (https://ibb.co/xY3tmFS)

[GWS]

Looks like a winner......no problems on the bottom end of the spring either?

[45acp]

Nope, no problemo.
Bullets drops sooo smooth now :)
A winner for shure

[TylerR]

Printed and tested.
No jams yet after testing 200 bullets.
Got it align now. I use some thicker screws causing plastic pushed out underneath on the previuos one.
Thanks! Great work!
More "natural" travel for the bullets now.


Excellent! I did print one myself. Have not had a chance to try it. Although I am not having the same issue.

[thump_rrr]

my opinion is that Mongo is a bit overkill. 300mm is perfect for cases or bullets, which is why I named it Just Right. And yes, AM's used 147.5mm plates. You can still create those with the generator, but they are not part of my project. The "original" collator I designed uses 179.5 plates.
Thanks,

I ended up finding a barely used CR10V3, which has a direct drive extruder, for $350 Canadian ($300USD) and he threw in 2 spools of brand new filament.

I’m in the process of adding Auto Bed Levelling and fixing a couple of minor extruder issues.
Hopefully by tonight or tomorrow it will be ready to start my first 300mm base.

[shibbykins]

Thanks,

I ended up finding a barely used CR10V3, which has a direct drive extruder, for $350 Canadian ($300USD) and he threw in 2 spools of brand new filament.

I’m in the process of adding Auto Bed Levelling and fixing a couple of minor extruder issues.
Hopefully by tonight or tomorrow it will be ready to start my first 300mm base.


Nic's firmware is a excellent choice for that machine if it still has the stock board and a BLT. It can be found on the faceballs its like nics creality firmware. Enjoy the v3 its a nice machine.

[thump_rrr]

Nic's firmware is a excellent choice for that machine if it still has the stock board and a BLT. It can be found on the faceballs its like nics creality firmware. Enjoy the v3 its a nice machine.
Thanks,
Mine has the 8 bit 2.5.2 board
I downloaded it this morning
I’m assuming that it will work the same with either the BL Touch or CR Touch.

[ranger391xt]

I've been working on designing a PCB (circuit board) that the relay could be soldered onto along with terminal blocks for the connection to the switch, Power supply, motor control, sensor and motor. My thinking is this would make connecting everything simpler and eliminate some of the need to solder wires together and reduce the rats nest in the box. It would also allow things like the sensor to be swapped out easily in the event of a component failure.

I had layed it out based on the old schematic. Trying to determine if it is necessary to change it based on the new wiring diagram.

looks like I could get 20 PCB printed in China pretty cheap. Not sure how long they would take to get here though. I may get a batch of them printed when I finalize things and offer a few of the extras here if there is interest.

Here is what it might look like. Demension are approx 61mm X 47mm


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/1738385b638b2dc383049b26aedb77b9.jpg

It has been awhile (2+ months...sheesh!), but I finally have something I can show. In mid-February the boards I ordered were printed and delivered. I then ordered the terminal blocks and relay from Amazon. First terminal blocks I ordered had pins that were bigger than the holes in the board and the pitch (pin spacing) was 5.08mm/0.2" instead of the 5mm spacing like the component I selected when designing the board. So those blocks went back and I found ones that would work and got them ordered. All this of course was at the same time the local PO was struggling with deliveries in my area due to carriers being out with Covid. Apparently they have to take a month off if they have it. Deliveries finally got back to normal near the end of February.

After getting the boards, I decided to model a new box with built in standoffs/mounting posts for the relay board and speed controller I use. I also use different connectors for the prox switch, motor and power, so I added cutouts to work with those, and made it so the power came in the bottom of the box and the connectors for the prox switch and motor were on top. I also wanted to be able to mount it to the 3/4" black pipe I that my feeder mounts to, so included the mounts on the box.

298708

Now I have everything soldered to the board, the relay board and speed controller mounted in the box and connected and here is what it all looks like.

298709

These are the connectors I use. I really don't care for those XT connectors for the motor, and trying to solder wire to JST sockets wasn't working for me.

298710

This is the post mount/clamps I put on the box.

298711

I connected it to my feeder and it worked as expected - plate spun when powered and when bullets were detected by the proximity switch it stopped. Need to load test it now just to make sure it doesn't overheat or anything like that.

And for you guys that were talking about the demands of baseball, I can identify. Coached girls basketball and soccer for a number of years. Don't coach any more, but the past weeks we have logged a lot of miles for soccer, which now seems to be a year round sport. The girls I coached from 3rd grade through Jr. High are all graduating this year and its been fantastic to see how much success they have had but it is hard to believe how quickly the time has passed....

[GWS]

It all looks great! You've gone to a lot of effort.....should give you years and years of good service. The best part of 3D printing, is being able to make dang near anything custom to suit us just right. I'm finally done with 5 of them.....happy as can be.:smile: Time to clean up my wife says and get serious about reloading again.

My coaching days are long over......all those kids are grown up and married and have their own kids to coach. I'm happy to let them.....but lots of good memories.

[TylerR]

These are the connectors I use. I really don't care for those XT connectors for the motor, and trying to solder wire to JST sockets wasn't working for me.

298710


That looks very nice! Can you provide a link to the connectors you are using?

[wwiley]

New to the site and found this bullet feeder on GitHub. Used the parts generator and have all of the parts printed just need to figure out how it all goes together. Can someone direct me to assembly instructions? Thanks in advance.

[TylerR]

New to the site and found this bullet feeder on GitHub. Used the parts generator and have all of the parts printed just need to figure out how it all goes together. Can someone direct me to assembly instructions? Thanks in advance.

There are no assembly instructions. There are pictures and videos in the project that show it assembled and operating, and it is a very straight forward process to complete.

[wbbh]

I'm working on a fastener application list, but I need some input for motors, other than the ETGZMP38 from Dayton. If there are other fasteners I missed, please let me know and I'll add them.

This is what I have so far:

298733

Text Version:

Fastener Application Chart
Brass Chute M2x8 N/A M2 4
Brass Chute Adjuster M3-20 M3 N/A 1
Clutch Hub 6x32x1" Pan Head 6-32 6-32 2 & 4 Nuts
Dillon Mount 3/8"x1" 3/8" Nylock N/A 1
Drop Hole Adapter M2-8 N/A M8 4
Flipper M3-16 N/A M3 1
Flipper Spring Retainer M3-8 N/A N/A 1
Item Fastener Nut Washer Count
Latch Mount M3-8 N/A M3 1
Motor, 634JS
Motor, ETGZMP38 N/A 10-32, Flanged 4
Motor, FC555
Motor, JGY370
Post Mount 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" Nut 3/8" 1
Post Mount Angle Adjuster Screw 1/4"-20 1/4"-20 N/A 1
Ramp M3-16 N/A M3 1
Square Post Angle Clamp 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" 3/8" 1
Square Post Angle Clamp Adjuster 1/4"-20x21/2" 1/4"-20 1/4" 1
Switch Board M3-20 M3 M3 4

[ranger391xt]

That looks very nice! Can you provide a link to the connectors you are using?Sure thing. Here are the various items I used, for anyone that may be interested.

2 pin

https://www.amazon.com/XLX-100PCS-Connection-Terminal-Connector/dp/B07HN4HXZW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1P1H0Q841MJNQ&keywords=jst+sm+2+pin+24awg&qid=1649357192&sprefix=jst+sm+2pin+24awg%2Caps%2C76&sr=8-3


3 pin

https://www.amazon.com/RGBZONE-20Pairs-Connector-Adapter-WS2812B/dp/B075K4HLTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3EM1F34HAMCRF&keywords=rgbzone+jst+sm+3+pin&qid=1649357308&sprefix=rgbzone+jst+sm+3pin%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-3

Power Connectors

https://www.amazon.com/Tegg-Connector-Dustproof-Water-Proof-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B07MJ4YWQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2KB7532RYNHE5&keywords=dc+female+panel+mount+jack&qid=1649357488&sprefix=tegg+dc+female+panel+%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-3

Motor Controller

https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-1803BKW-Controller-Adjustable-Driver/dp/B00RYKR83Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=10JQ5HKD4CP6L&keywords=Uniquegoods+motor+controller&qid=1649357048&sprefix=uniquegoods+motor+controller%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-9


Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[azlester]

has anyone updated the plate spreadsheet on drop list lately???

[TylerR]

I'm working on a fastener application list, but I need some input for motors, other than the ETGZMP38 from Dayton. If there are other fasteners I missed, please let me know and I'll add them.

This is what I have so far:

298733

Text Version:

Fastener Application Chart
Brass Chute M2x8 N/A M2 4
Brass Chute Adjuster M3-20 M3 N/A 1
Clutch Hub 6x32x1" Pan Head 6-32 6-32 2 & 4 Nuts
Dillon Mount 3/8"x1" 3/8" Nylock N/A 1
Drop Hole Adapter M2-8 N/A M8 4
Flipper M3-16 N/A M3 1
Flipper Spring Retainer M3-8 N/A N/A 1
Item Fastener Nut Washer Count
Latch Mount M3-8 N/A M3 1
Motor, 634JS
Motor, ETGZMP38 N/A 10-32, Flanged 4
Motor, FC555
Motor, JGY370
Post Mount 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" Nut 3/8" 1
Post Mount Angle Adjuster Screw 1/4"-20 1/4"-20 N/A 1
Ramp M3-16 N/A M3 1
Square Post Angle Clamp 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" 3/8" 1
Square Post Angle Clamp Adjuster 1/4"-20x21/2" 1/4"-20 1/4" 1
Switch Board M3-20 M3 M3 4

That is very cool. Honestly I would not even bother listing the jgy370 or the FC555 motors. I removed them as recommended motors from the manual. The 634JS motor is the way to go. I used m4x10mm for that motor.

[azlester]

I'm working on a fastener application list, but I need some input for motors, other than the ETGZMP38 from Dayton. If there are other fasteners I missed, please let me know and I'll add them.

This is what I have so far:

298733

Text Version:

Fastener Application Chart
Brass Chute M2x8 N/A M2 4
Brass Chute Adjuster M3-20 M3 N/A 1
Clutch Hub 6x32x1" Pan Head 6-32 6-32 2 & 4 Nuts
Dillon Mount 3/8"x1" 3/8" Nylock N/A 1
Drop Hole Adapter M2-8 N/A M8 4
Flipper M3-16 N/A M3 1
Flipper Spring Retainer M3-8 N/A N/A 1
Item Fastener Nut Washer Count
Latch Mount M3-8 N/A M3 1
Motor, 634JS
Motor, ETGZMP38 N/A 10-32, Flanged 4
Motor, FC555
Motor, JGY370
Post Mount 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" Nut 3/8" 1
Post Mount Angle Adjuster Screw 1/4"-20 1/4"-20 N/A 1
Ramp M3-16 N/A M3 1
Square Post Angle Clamp 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" 3/8" 1
Square Post Angle Clamp Adjuster 1/4"-20x21/2" 1/4"-20 1/4" 1
Switch Board M3-20 M3 M3 4

The JGY motor uses M3x8 pan head screws... qty 4

I was told that the hex clutch uses #6-32 x 1/2 inch screws and nylock nuts
When i tried to use an M3-20 for the adjustable slide plate to hold the slide in place it is way too short... i think it need at least a 25mm length screw.

[TylerR]

has anyone updated the plate spreadsheet on drop list lately???

That has not been updated in a long time.

[RedBarachetta]

This is my setup.
Works pretty well :)
https://i.postimg.cc/13tj16h3/IMG-20220403-235507.jpg (https://postimg.cc/N5341Kj3)

That's what I am after. I have a 12" length of 1" square aluminum tube that looks like yours. I don't recall seeing that square base for the tube anywhere. Is that your own? Also, will 12" length be enough?

[azlester]

That has not been updated in a long time.

Any additional information available from anyone on these?

[TylerR]

Any additional information available from anyone on these?

No. I put it out there to be updated. No one else contributed.

[wbbh]

Fastener Chart updated, V2:

298754

Text:

Fastener Application Chart
Brass Chute M2x8 N/A M2 4
Brass Chute Adjuster M3-25 M3 N/A 1
Clutch Hub 6x32x1/2" Pan Head 6-32 6-32 2
Clutch Hub, Alternate 6x32x1" Pan Head 6-32 6-32 2 & 4 Nuts
Clutch Hubs configurtion can be done is several ways with different handles/covers/hubs change fastener lengths as required.
Dillon Mount 3/8"x1" 3/8" Nylock N/A 1
Drop Hole Adapter M2-8 N/A M8 4
Flipper M3-16 N/A M3 1
Flipper Spring Retainer M3-8 N/A N/A 1
Item Fastener Nut Washer Count
Latch Mount M3-8 N/A M3 1
Motor, 634JS M4-10 N/A N/A 4
Motor, ETGZMP38 N/A 10-32, Flanged 4
Motor, FC555 M4-10 N/A N/A 4
Motor, JGY370 6-32 x1/2" Pan Head N/A N/A 4
Post Mount 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" Nut 3/8" 1
Post Mount Angle Adjuster Screw 1/4"-20 1/4"-20 N/A 1
Ramp M3-16 N/A M3 1
Square Post Angle Clamp 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" 3/8" 1
Square Post Angle Clamp Adjuster 1/4"-20x21/2" 1/4"-20 1/4" 1
Switch Board M3-20 M3 M3 4

[azlester]

Fastener Chart updated, V2:

298754

Text:

Fastener Application Chart
Brass Chute M2x8 N/A M2 4
Brass Chute Adjuster M3-25 M3 N/A 1
Clutch Hub 6x32x1/2" Pan Head 6-32 6-32 2
Clutch Hub, Alternate 6x32x1" Pan Head 6-32 6-32 2 & 4 Nuts
Clutch Hubs configurtion can be done is several ways with different handles/covers/hubs change fastener lengths as required.
Dillon Mount 3/8"x1" 3/8" Nylock N/A 1
Drop Hole Adapter M2-8 N/A M8 4
Flipper M3-16 N/A M3 1
Flipper Spring Retainer M3-8 N/A N/A 1
Item Fastener Nut Washer Count
Latch Mount M3-8 N/A M3 1
Motor, 634JS M4-10 N/A N/A 4
Motor, ETGZMP38 N/A 10-32, Flanged 4
Motor, FC555 M4-10 N/A N/A 4
Motor, JGY370 6-32 x1/2" Pan Head N/A N/A 4
Post Mount 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" Nut 3/8" 1
Post Mount Angle Adjuster Screw 1/4"-20 1/4"-20 N/A 1
Ramp M3-16 N/A M3 1
Square Post Angle Clamp 3/8"x2" Bolt 3/8" 3/8" 1
Square Post Angle Clamp Adjuster 1/4"-20x21/2" 1/4"-20 1/4" 1
Switch Board M3-20 M3 M3 4

My JGY370 motor uses M3-8 bolt not 6-32

[thump_rrr]

That is very cool. Honestly I would not even bother listing the jgy370 or the FC555 motors. I removed them as recommended motors from the manual. The 634JS motor is the way to go. I used m4x10mm for that motor.
What is it that you like about the 634js over the Dayton?
I’ve been running the 12v 12RPM Dayton for about 16 months now.
Absolutely no complaints.
I am about to order 2 more for my 2 just right I’m about to start printing.

[azlester]

That is very cool. Honestly I would not even bother listing the jgy370 or the FC555 motors. I removed them as recommended motors from the manual. The 634JS motor is the way to go. I used m4x10mm for that motor.

Where can you get a 634JS motor...searched came up with nothing...

[thump_rrr]

Where can you get a 634JS motor...searched came up with nothing...
Aliexpress has them as 634JSX
They are 1/2 the price of the Dayton

[thump_rrr]

That's what I am after. I have a 12" length of 1" square aluminum tube that looks like yours. I don't recall seeing that square base for the tube anywhere. Is that your own? Also, will 12" length be enough?
I have to dig through my files but I printed up a square 1x1 last year.
I’ll check when I get home.

[45acp]

That's what I am after. I have a 12" length of 1" square aluminum tube that looks like yours. I don't recall seeing that square base for the tube anywhere. Is that your own? Also, will 12" length be enough?

I use a 30mm square tube. Hight is about 400mm.
Bench mount is my own. Can share it if someone find it useful, no problemo.

[TylerR]

Where can you get a 634JS motor...searched came up with nothing...

There is a link to it in the manual.

[azlester]

I just thought that the 24kg/cm torque on the 6rpm JGY370 motor was more then good enough for the original size set up. It's not like I am going to throw in 400 45acp bullets to collate... and it may not be fast but I feel that for my needs it is going to be great! Not to mention saving a few bucks on buying one. Living on social Security has a limiting effect on how much mad money I have access to. lol

[GWS]

I used the JGY370 motor on my first print of AmmoMike's base back when TylerR was just getting going with his bigger, regular model. Still works fine and I use it for my APP feeder to feed pistol bullets. I will say that when bullets hung up, the motor just stopped, not being powerful enough to rip out plates. ;) People who pioneered the more powerful motors suffered some breakage due to their power, which prompted TylorR to develop his awesome clutch system...

I would say for TylerR's normal sized collator it will work, and the clutch system will surely make it last longer than it would without it. I know I raced to turn the power off when the motor stopped due to a blockage.....not for fear of ripping plastic, but for fear of a burned out motor. :) With the clutch, probably not much to worry about even on that.

[azlester]

I used the JGY370 motor on my first print of AmmoMike's base back when TylerR was just getting going with his bigger, regular model. Still works fine and I use it for my APP feeder to feed pistol bullets. I will say that when bullets hung up, the motor just stopped, not being powerful enough to rip out plates. ;) People who pioneered the more powerful motors suffered some breakage due to their power, which prompted TylorR to develop his awesome clutch system...

I would say for TylerR's normal sized collator it will work, and the clutch system will surely make it last longer than it would without it. I know I raced to turn the power off when the motor stopped due to a blockage.....not for fear of ripping plastic, but for fear of a burned out motor. :) With the clutch, probably not much to worry about even on that.

Yep, using the clutch! Could not think of a single reason not to use it.

[azlester]

For the APP bracket main what size bolt is needed?? 1/4-20x3.5???
The stock lee bolt is too short and it is 2.75 inches long
thanks

[GWS]

For the APP bracket main what size bolt is needed?? 1/4-20x3.5???
The stock lee bolt is too short and it is 2.75 inches long
thanks

I use a 3-3/4" long bolt.....a nut to tighten it to the bracket main, then a coupling nut "specialized" to tighten it to the APP frame. Although in the video I turn the coupling nut on a lot.....the Lee frame takes way more thickness.....don't think 3.5" is quite enough.

Specialized just means a cheap wing nut and a short bolt on the "other" end of the coupling nut.......this way I can remove the bracket easy peasy, without having to get on my knees and get a wrench up under there.

Here's a little video to demo the concept:


https://youtu.be/J7L1YTR1AI8

And here's the easy peasy part.....even with the camera in the way:


https://youtu.be/_psLJyfpXA4

[azlester]

Great idea!!!!!!!!!!
How long is that coupling nut?

[GWS]

That one was probably 1.5 inches. But 2 inch ones work fine too.

[45acp]

No. I put it out there to be updated. No one else contributed.

I have tried to add some info, but it seems like i don´t have the rights to edit the sheet.

[TylerR]

For the APP bracket main what size bolt is needed?? 1/4-20x3.5???
The stock lee bolt is too short and it is 2.75 inches long
thanks

It is designed to use the stock bolt. I just set one up a few weeks ago with it.

[TylerR]

I have tried to add some info, but it seems like i don´t have the rights to edit the sheet.

Try this link:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/751mucr14v8xs4yy3ikpy/bullet-compatibility-chart.xlsx?dl=0&rlkey=trccx3025q4j5ped0qz550c4h

[azlester]

It is designed to use the stock bolt. I just set one up a few weeks ago with it.

I have 3 of the Lee case feeder set ups and just tried the bolts from all 3 of them... each one measures 2.75 inches of thread. All 3 of the setups are at least 8+ years old so maybe Lee made a change somewhere along the line.
I printed 2 of the App Bracket Main because I thought something was off... but the both measure 2.577 inches deep for the threaded portion of the bolt.
No biggie because a new bolt is only like $.35....

[azlester]

I have tried to add some info, but it seems like i don´t have the rights to edit the sheet.

I saw you were loading some 45 truncated cone bullets... what slide plate are you using on them?If your doing 9mm truncated cones the same question.
Thanks

[GWS]

I have 3 of the Lee case feeder set ups and just tried the bolts from all 3 of them... each one measures 2.75 inches of thread. All 3 of the setups are at least 8+ years old so maybe Lee made a change somewhere along the line.
I printed 2 of the App Bracket Main because I thought something was off... but the both measure 2.577 inches deep for the threaded portion of the bolt.
No biggie because a new bolt is only like $.35....

Maybe TylerR doesn't use the nut between his bracket and the APP mounting hole? I did to get the thing high enough to use with the shuttle/slider I wanted to use. There are a couple of factors: shuttle/slider height, insert height to start with, or maybe it's my pea brain. Whatever....it works fantastic.:)

[thump_rrr]

It took me nearly a week, a CR Touch and a few small parts to get the new to me CR10v3 running to my liking but my 300mm main body is now at hour #14.
I used a 0.6mm nozzle and some PLA this time because I liked the matte look of it.
We’ll see how well it turns out but so far so good.
Only 30 hours to go.
https://i.postimg.cc/RhNyZwNw/D221762-F-6065-4-DAC-A409-684-C26-AE06-EE.jpg (https://postimg.cc/JHCPTD3h)
https://i.postimg.cc/Zn2gB0d2/FBB3256-E-5-BF7-496-F-8-DA4-E79-BFA69-DB2-C.jpg (https://postimg.cc/n9KTNFTG)

[GWS]

So far, looking really good! Fun stuff! Tape on the bed works......but I sure love the Polypropylene bed TylerR reccommended......no more applying removing and reapplying tape....so much less bother.

[Gork]

I used the JGY370 motor on my first print of AmmoMike's base back when TylerR was just getting going with his bigger, regular model. Still works fine and I use it for my APP feeder to feed pistol bullets. I will say that when bullets hung up, the motor just stopped, not being powerful enough to rip out plates. ;) People who pioneered the more powerful motors suffered some breakage due to their power, which prompted TylorR to develop his awesome clutch system...

I would say for TylerR's normal sized collator it will work, and the clutch system will surely make it last longer than it would without it. I know I raced to turn the power off when the motor stopped due to a blockage.....not for fear of ripping plastic, but for fear of a burned out motor. :) With the clutch, probably not much to worry about even on that.

As I am from an industrial electrical background, I grabbed a couple of 24v jgy370 motors back when AmmoMike's original was the go so I could "test" some inductive proxy sensors I "found" at work. I have never had a problem with lack of motor power, with AmmoMike's or TylerR's standard size, and 24v makes the range of available sensors huge. One power supply is much like another, and at a pinch (unpowered shed), I have used a 18v dewalt battery to run my setup for around 2 thousand rounds brass and projectiles without recharging. I would try out some of these other motors as they seem great, but pricing to get them in Australia has been prohibitive.

[TylerR]

It took me nearly a week, a CR Touch and a few small parts to get the new to me CR10v3 running to my liking but my 300mm main body is now at hour #14.
I used a 0.6mm nozzle and some PLA this time because I liked the matte look of it.
We’ll see how well it turns out but so far so good.
Only 30 hours to go.


Looks great. keep us posted.

[TylerR]

As I am from an industrial electrical background, I grabbed a couple of 24v jgy370 motors back when AmmoMike's original was the go so I could "test" some inductive proxy sensors I "found" at work. I have never had a problem with lack of motor power, with AmmoMike's or TylerR's standard size, and 24v makes the range of available sensors huge. One power supply is much like another, and at a pinch (unpowered shed), I have used a 18v dewalt battery to run my setup for around 2 thousand rounds brass and projectiles without recharging. I would try out some of these other motors as they seem great, but pricing to get them in Australia has been prohibitive.

I love hearing from guys building these things all over the world. What open source is all about. Wouldn't mind seeing what you have wired up to run the battery.
If the jgy370 is working for you then no need changing it. I have decided the ETZGMP38 motor is definitely overkill, except maybe on Mongo. I do really like the 634JS though. Its the happy medium.

[TylerR]

Maybe TylerR doesn't use the nut between his bracket and the APP mounting hole? I did to get the thing high enough to use with the shuttle/slider I wanted to use. There are a couple of factors: shuttle/slider height, insert height to start with, or maybe it's my pea brain. Whatever....it works fantastic.:)

You have to use a nut between the bracket and the APP. If you don't none of the inserts will be at the correct height. That said, I believe the stock bolts I have were 3.75", not 2.75", which would be a huge difference.

[azlester]

You have to use a nut between the bracket and the APP. If you don't none of the inserts will be at the correct height. That said, I believe the stock bolts I have were 3.75", not 2.75", which would be a huge difference.

Yep. the shorter bolts barely poke thru the bracket... going to town tomorrow to get a couple of longer ones along with the bolt for the main body angle adjustment.

[TylerR]

Yep. the shorter bolts barely poke thru the bracket... going to town tomorrow to get a couple of longer ones along with the bolt for the main body angle adjustment.

I am bit confused where you said you have APP presses from 8+ years ago. I thought these came out in late 2019/2020. Are you talking about the APP press or something else?

[GWS]

I have 3 of the Lee case feeder set ups and just tried the bolts from all 3 of them... each one measures 2.75 inches of thread. All 3 of the setups are at least 8+ years old so maybe Lee made a change somewhere along the line.
I printed 2 of the App Bracket Main because I thought something was off... but the both measure 2.577 inches deep for the threaded portion of the bolt.
No biggie because a new bolt is only like $.35....

Probably talking about the 4-way which you can alternately use with an APP. So maybe the bolt in that kit is short. ;) I was happy to replace that kit and the contraption I made to quick change, for the 3D printed quick change you created.......much rather have a case feeder than a 4-way.

[TylerR]

Probably talking about the 4-way which you can alternately use with an APP. So maybe the bolt in that kit is short. ;) I was happy to replace that kit and the contraption I made to quick change, for the 3D printed quick change you created.......much rather have a case feeder than a 4-way.

OK that makes more sense. The APP has always shipped with the same size bolt, and that is what my bracket is designed around.

[azlester]

I am bit confused where you said you have APP presses from 8+ years ago. I thought these came out in late 2019/2020. Are you talking about the APP press or something else?

Yes, I was talking bout the 4 way tube magazine set up.... I had them for my Lee LoadMaster. Up until now they worked with the APP and the ACP presses...

[azlester]

How well does the 9mm bullet feeding die work with .358 diameter bullets?
Thanks

[djgas]

Can someone post pic of connection between case feeder and Dillon 650/750 press -specially on press side -can’t find combination of parts…https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220412/5aba3a0e5cbe624063b84706eccdd5ee.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220412/7d86f625b97c65e14e0ed6344adce680.jpg

[TylerR]

Can someone post pic of connection between case feeder and Dillon 650/750 press -specially on press side -can’t find combination of parts…

If you are mounting the sensor / drop tube to the feeder, then you would simply run your spring to the "Dillon_Spring_Adapter.stl", which will interface with the dillon case adapters on the press.

Or you can also look in the contributors folder for Tanders' case feed adapters, which replace the dillon ones and accept a spring adapter directly.

[GWS]

How well does the 9mm bullet feeding die work with .358 diameter bullets?
Thanks

Really? I know there's browning 9mm longs, but I don't have such a gun. .355 round nose works great.....the only .358 bullet I have are .357mag hollow points......tried them and they don't feed right. They go through if I manually lift the insert really high.....so don't know why..... TylerR designed the die though, he may have a better understanding why not. Those same bullets work perfect in the .38 die. as they should.

[GWS]

Question about the APP project: there are two shuttle bases, one is longer.....what's the longer one for? I missed that somehow.

[azlester]

Really? I know there's browning 9mm longs, but I don't have such a gun. .355 round nose works great.....the only .358 bullet I have are .357mag hollow points......tried them and they don't feed right. They go through if I manually lift the insert really high.....so don't know why..... TylerR designed the die though, he may have a better understanding why not. Those same bullets work perfect in the .38 die. as they should.

I totally missed the 38 die set.... now I gotta scrounge up another set of springs... LOL

[azlester]

Question about the APP project: there are two shuttle bases, one is longer.....what's the longer one for? I missed that somehow.

I printed up both... I couldn't see any difference between them.

[Tom Myers]

Really? I know there's browning 9mm longs, but I don't have such a gun. .355 round nose works great.....the only .358 bullet I have are .357mag hollow points......tried them and they don't feed right. They go through if I manually lift the insert really high.....so don't know why..... TylerR designed the die though, he may have a better understanding why not. Those same bullets work perfect in the .38 die. as they should.
The paired 9mm ball holes in the insert stem are spaced, vertically, closer togethet that the holes in the 38 set. This difference will accomodate the longer bullet lengths used in 38 calibers.

[Tom Myers]

I printed up both... I couldn't see any difference between them.

The small pusher tab beneath the jaws is slightly longer to accomodate rims that are slightly less in diameter thatn the case body, thereby reducing the tendency of the case to tip forward due to friction between the ramp and the case rim.

[GWS]

The paired 9mm ball holes in the insert stem are spaced, vertically, closer together than the holes in the 38 set. This difference will accommodate the longer bullet lengths used in 38 calibers.

I figured it was something like that, but I didn't examine them....just shared how the .358's didn't work so well.


The small pusher tab beneath the jaws is slightly longer to accomodate rims that are slightly less in diameter thatn the case body, thereby reducing the tendency of the case to tip forward due to friction between the ramp and the case rim.

That makes sense. I do remember the original tongue was a little long for what I loaded so TylerR reduced it a little.....I had just carved mine and made it work. What I didn't know was that he kept both versions. Thanks for the added info.....and TylerR didn't even have to exercise his fingers.....:)

[TylerR]

The small pusher tab beneath the jaws is slightly longer to accomodate rims that are slightly less in diameter thatn the case body, thereby reducing the tendency of the case to tip forward due to friction between the ramp and the case rim.

Damn! I never explained why I created both, but you nailed it. That is the answer, short and sweet,

[TylerR]

The paired 9mm ball holes in the insert stem are spaced, vertically, closer togethet that the holes in the 38 set. This difference will accomodate the longer bullet lengths used in 38 calibers.

Exactly. The 38 die also has a longer body.

[azlester]

Ok, call me an idiot....
What terminals do i use with this photo resistor(on the right hand side of the board)?? I tried googling the symbols but no help at all.
298935
Thank you for all your help!

[GWS]

Never used such a thing.....its a Car Light Automatic Control Switch....but TylerR may have. He'll have to explain...me know nothing.:) But here's a circuit picture of it....may possibly help.

https://i.postimg.cc/5NyVKM80/Screenshot-2022-04-13-150330.png

[azlester]

Ok next dumb question....
The owners manual says that I need a Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole_X .... I cant find it in any section... it goes from the top of the bullet feeder die to the spring adapter at the end of the spring coming down from the collator... I think.
I know that the x is the size.
Thanks

[GWS]

Ok next dumb question....
The owners manual says that I need a Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole_X .... I cant find it in any section... it goes from the top of the bullet feeder die to the spring adapter at the end of the spring coming down from the collator... I think.
I know that the x is the size.
Thanks

They are in the "Adapters" section and come in 3 sizes. Large, Medium, and Small. Print all three and keep them handy. Use the one that works for your application.

https://i.postimg.cc/vZYy1YF8/Screenshot-2022-04-14-171558.png

[TylerR]

Ok next dumb question....
The owners manual says that I need a Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole_X .... I cant find it in any section... it goes from the top of the bullet feeder die to the spring adapter at the end of the spring coming down from the collator... I think.
I know that the x is the size.
Thanks

If you are using the drop tube that mounts to the collator you don't need that part.

[azlester]

If you are using the drop tube that mounts to the collator you don't need that part.
298997
So there is an error in the owners manual???

[GWS]

Well TylerR......I like my RCBS Tube Rifle bullet feeder dies, except for the fact that I sometimes forget there's ball bearings in there, and all it takes is tipping the tool head on it's side to lose them. And the in-tubes are just sitting there....can be bumped out too easy, and then I'm picking up bullets off the floor.

I like your 3D printed ones even better since they have springs to hold them together. ;) No bearings or bullets on the floor to search for and pick up.

So I borrowed the spring idea from you.

From this:

https://i.postimg.cc/XJHbnV5p/Rifle-Tube-Bullet-Feeder.png

To this:

https://i.postimg.cc/8CtWMP01/IMG-4027.jpg

just using this:

https://i.postimg.cc/sXDzFBvk/Tube-Feeder-Add-ons.png I tried different shapes on each one.....the window on the .223 looks better.....the top on the .308 looks better.....worth reprinting? No....not that vain I guess.....they work! No more bearings and bullets on the floor from this forgetful klutz. Now they are just as efficient as yours. No sense wasting perfectly good tools.

[TylerR]

298997
So there is an error in the owners manual???

Are you feeding brass or bullets to the press?

[azlester]

Are you feeding brass or bullets to the press?

Yea it's me again....
I am trying to take all the pieces I printed and assemble them to make sure I have everything needed.
Here is where I am having problems...
For bullet feeding
I have the everything from the app and bullet feeding die up to the LED drop tube. Where i am having a problem is that none of the spring adapters seem to fit the bayonet fitting on top of the drop tube. I have the parts for from the collator to the spring.
For case feeding
I am using the Alt LED drop tube that attaches at the collator. I have everything to attach the spring down towards the APP. Where I am having a problem is from the bottom of the spring to the offset connector. What part do I use??

[TylerR]

Yea it's me again....
I am trying to take all the pieces I printed and assemble them to make sure I have everything needed.
Here is where I am having problems...
For bullet feeding
I have the everything from the app and bullet feeding die up to the LED drop tube. Where i am having a problem is that none of the spring adapters seem to fit the bayonet fitting on top of the drop tube. I have the parts for from the collator to the spring.
For case feeding
I am using the Alt LED drop tube that attaches at the collator. I have everything to attach the spring down towards the APP. Where I am having a problem is from the bottom of the spring to the offset connector. What part do I use??

Post a couple of pics of both setups and I will help figure out what you are missing.

[TylerR]

Well TylerR......I like my RCBS Tube Rifle bullet feeder dies, except for the fact that I sometimes forget there's ball bearings in there, and all it takes is tipping the tool head on it's side to lose them. And the in-tubes are just sitting there....can be bumped out too easy, and then I'm picking up bullets off the floor.

I like your 3D printed ones even better since they have springs to hold them together. ;) No bearings or bullets on the floor to search for and pick up.

So I borrowed the spring idea from you.

From this:

https://i.postimg.cc/XJHbnV5p/Rifle-Tube-Bullet-Feeder.png

To this:

https://i.postimg.cc/8CtWMP01/IMG-4027.jpg

just using this:

https://i.postimg.cc/sXDzFBvk/Tube-Feeder-Add-ons.png I tried different shapes on each one.....the window on the .223 looks better.....the top on the .308 looks better.....worth reprinting? No....not that vain I guess.....they work! No more bearings and bullets on the floor from this forgetful klutz. Now they are just as efficient as yours. No sense wasting perfectly good tools.

Looks great to me!

[GWS]

Looks great to me!

Notice the next station counter clockwise in the picture of my last post? That's the video powder cop I made from an old .45acp seater body and a 12V cheap bore scope. I think I will make a simpler version just using a 3D print that just drops in the die holder hole and forget threading a die body....where you can just stuff an unmodified bore scope in it...then stuff both in the die holder. That way you can just move it tool head to tool head easily.This is how it works:


https://youtu.be/rhqqmyymXWo

[wbbh]

Notice the next station counter clockwise in the picture of my last post? That's the video powder cop I made from an old .45acp seater body and a 12V cheap bore scope. I think I will make a simpler version just using a 3D print that just drops in the die holder hole and forget threading a die body....where you can just stuff an unmodified bore scope in it...then stuff both in the die holder. That way you can just move it tool head to tool head easily.This is how it works:




Nice! I've made a similar busing for another reloader's Dillon 750 and on my 750 the die heads have this odd spare hole that works great to mount a similar camera head to check powder charging.

[GWS]

Nice! I've made a similar busing for another reloader's Dillon 750 and on my 750 the die heads have this odd spare hole that works great to mount a similar camera head to check powder charging.

Yeah the hole for the Dillon beeper powder check system. That must have been designed by Toyota. I have a 4Runner a year old....and I found that I don't do well with the incessant beeping to save me from myself! ;) Actually I found that out long before I traded my faithful lovable Avalanche for it. I tried a piezo buzzer on a case trimmer I made....removed it just before I went crazy. IMO you made a better use of the hole.

I just figured on my 7 station press, that a camera would be a better use than a regular powder cop, that you have to listen to, or watch the little pole go up and down. The video screen can be more in your face so you don't space it off, and with 7 stations, I don't miss the station, and you can't beat the direct head on shot of the case.

[wbbh]

Yeah the hole for the Dillon beeper powder check system. That must have been designed by Toyota. I have a 4Runner a year old....and I found that I don't do well with the incessant beeping to save me from myself! ;) Actually I found that out long before I traded my faithful lovable Avalanche for it. I tried a piezo buzzer on a case trimmer I made....removed it just before I went crazy. IMO you made a better use of the hole.

I just figured on my 7 station press, that a camera would be a better use than a regular powder cop, that you have to listen to, or watch the little pole go up and down. The video screen can be more in your face so you don't space it off, and with 7 stations, I don't miss the station, and you can't beat the direct head on shot of the case.

The camera works great, now if I could just get the meat bag to look at the camera every time and not second guess myself... it would be great. :veryconfu

[azlester]

Post a couple of pics of both setups and I will help figure out what you are missing.

yea
299027299028

only took me 2+ hours to get the stupid pics to upload.....

[GWS]

Ok next dumb question....
The owners manual says that I need a Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole_X .... I cant find it in any section... it goes from the top of the bullet feeder die to the spring adapter at the end of the spring coming down from the collator... I think.
I know that the x is the size.
Thanks

Okay lets see if we can make sense of this frustration. First of all the two pictures you sent are of two things I don't get from this post.

Here you said, "it goes from the top of the bullet feeder die to the spring adapter at the end of the spring coming down from the collator... "
Now look at the following picture where you will see the "Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole X" along with the bullet feeder die, and the spring/spring adaptor:

https://i.postimg.cc/3J95xfb0/IMG_3948.jpg

Next picture shows two of these put together ( 2 different calibers different sized springs):

https://i.postimg.cc/5y7rg0fx/IMG_1112.jpg
Different spring adaptors are necessary for different sized springs. (don't look at or even consider the two black things on the other end of the springs....those mate with my Hornady Pistol feeder and has nothing to do with your setup.)

Okay.....the small/medium/large versions of that "Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole X" is what you will always need on top of any of the bullet feed dies (arrows pointing up to the spring adaptor). But this the bottom of the springs, not on the collator end of things, which depends entirely what switch and down tube you use up there.

You have one extra part not in my pictures....the offset adaptor. That's just an extension of the feed die. The top of that should match the top of the feed die.....so the "Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole_X" goes into it just like it does the feed die.

So add either the small, medium, or large "Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole X" to your feed die and you should be able to connect everything.......I hope you can cut the length of that long long spring! ;)

Your pictures seem to mix up two systems. Left picture shows Lee APP parts, Right picture shows a feeder die or something else (don't see the little die spring hooks)? with tubing inside the top and not sure what else you got there, but neither is right, unless it's custom.....and I do that all the time.:)

Bet TylerR has more help for you.....

[azlester]

Okay lets see if we can make sense of this frustration. First of all the two pictures you sent are of two things I don't get from this post.

Here you said, "it goes from the top of the bullet feeder die to the spring adapter at the end of the spring coming down from the collator... "
Now look at the following picture where you will see the "Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole X" along with the bullet feeder die, and the spring/spring adaptor:

https://i.postimg.cc/3J95xfb0/IMG_3948.jpg

Next picture shows two of these put together ( 2 different calibers different sized springs):

https://i.postimg.cc/5y7rg0fx/IMG_1112.jpg
Different spring adaptors are necessary for different sized springs. (don't look at or even consider the two black things on the other end of the springs....those mate with my Hornady Pistol feeder and has nothing to do with your setup.)

Okay.....the small/medium/large versions of that "Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole X" is what you will always need on top of any of the bullet feed dies (arrows pointing up to the spring adaptor). But this the bottom of the springs, not on the collator end of things, which depends entirely what switch and down tube you use up there.

You have one extra part not in my pictures....the offset adaptor. That's just an extension of the feed die. The top of that should match the top of the feed die.....so the "Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole_X" goes into it just like it does the feed die.

So add either the small, medium, or large "Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole X" to your feed die and you should be able to connect everything.......I hope you can cut the length of that long long spring! ;)

Your pictures seem to mix up two systems. Left picture shows Lee APP parts, Right picture shows a feeder die or something else (don't see the little die spring hooks)? with tubing inside the top and not sure what else you got there, but neither is right, unless it's custom.....and I do that all the time.:)

Bet Tyler has more help for you.....

yes I did that ... my brain is fried trying to figure this out.... ignore the pictures as I have no idea what I was thinking. Sorry
I think I have it figured out now....just need to take a break and let my mind clear up a tad...LOL
Thank you

[GWS]

The camera works great, now if I could just get the meat bag to look at the camera every time and not second guess myself... it would be great. :veryconfu

LOL! If you were just a meat bag, you would not be into reloading or be on this forum, trying to glean some information. You'd be on the streets of some city, with a dumb sign. Just move the video screen closer so you have to see it.........like I said, "in your face." :)

[wbbh]

LOL! If you were just a meat bag, you would not be into reloading or be on this forum, trying to glean some information. You'd be on the streets of some city, with a dumb sign. Just move the video screen closer so you have to see it.........like I said, "in your face." :)

LOL :goodpost:

[azlester]

WOOOHOOO!!!!!
I am done with the printing and have it all wired up and everything actually works lol
Now to build the mount for it on my bench.
How tall do you guys have the main body mounted? I am going to be using it with both my APP and a Loadmaster.
Thank you all for all the help you have given me... it is very much appreciated!

[GWS]

Tall enough, but short enough to see inside if you're that lucky.....

I'm too short so I have mirrors to see in. But really it's arbitrary, and personal. Obviously the shorter the spring the better, but you do what you have to do, and there's probably not two out there the same.

Congrats on the prints and electrics though.....almost there. ;)

BTW, on my first one I temporarily suspended it by rope and moved it up and down til I was happy....but I don't have the same equipment you have.

[azlester]

Tall enough, but short enough to see inside if you're that lucky.....

I'm too short so I have mirrors to see in. But really it's arbitrary, and personal. Obviously the shorter the spring the better, but you do what you have to do, and there's probably not two out there the same.

Congrats on the prints and electrics though.....almost there. ;)

BTW, on my first one I temporarily suspended it by rope and moved it up and down til I was happy....but I don't have the same equipment you have.

maybe I should rephrase the question... how tall above the press do you have it mounted?
I was hoping to find a starting point and adjust it from there. I am really wanting to make sure I have enough 1 inch square tubing.

I am probably going to have to do some mirror thing...my bench was built so i could stand and work...it is tall.

[RedBarachetta]

This is my setup.
Works pretty well :)
https://i.postimg.cc/13tj16h3/IMG-20220403-235507.jpg (https://postimg.cc/N5341Kj3)

Were you able to find this table mount for the square post? I searched on thingiverse a few times and haven't found it.

[GWS]

Same answer. But I'll add that you want the spring not to be bent enough to slow down the bullet/case travel. I have three presses, each one turned out different, I just can't tell you a number that will work for you. One of your pictures showed a die mounted switch, one a collator mounted switch, then there's what adapters you use......everything is different from mine. So how can I intelligently give you a height? What works for my setup and equipment I can almost guarantee won't be best for yours.

Look at RedBarachetta's look how different the Heights are on just his two collators.

[azlester]

Were you able to find this table mount for the square post? I searched on thingiverse a few times and haven't found it.

I am using the square post mount on the Github files... I am making a stand with what I have around... a steel plate with the steel square tube welded to it.

[azlester]

Hey Tyler
Could you please try and make "Mount_Bench_Post_1inch.stl" for 1 inch square tube?
And maybe a sliding adapter for 1 inch square tube so you could slide the main piece up and down to different heights?
Thanks!

[GWS]

Powder Level Scope

Disaster yesterday....I broke my 12 Volt scope! Have to order another on the slow boat from China. Stupid, thinking I could move the old one to the new 3D prints.

I do have a USB version that has to be played on a computer.....I like the monitor better, but the USB one will have to do for now.....I can at least demonstrate the new 3D print version.

So here's the prints:

https://i.postimg.cc/fL1vxHgW/Video-Powder-Level.png

And here's the demo video: I used powder in the case from my throw away pile.....so you will see kernels of different types. So if you should actually see such a thing while you're loading.....stop! ;)


https://youtu.be/Oe68MAsvtWo

[azlester]

Looks great and simple!

[45acp]

Were you able to find this table mount for the square post? I searched on thingiverse a few times and haven't found it.

Just uploaded it.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5359105

[RedBarachetta]

Hey Tyler
Could you please try and make "Mount_Bench_Post_1inch.stl" for 1 inch square tube?
And maybe a sliding adapter for 1 inch square tube so you could slide the main piece up and down to different heights?
Thanks!

That would be awesome.

[RedBarachetta]

Just uploaded it.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5359105

I don't suppose you have one in 1" size?

[TylerR]

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Bench_Post_1inch_Square.stl

[RedBarachetta]

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Bench_Post_1inch_Square.stl

You guys are awesome. Hopefully I will be able to contribute something soon.

[RedBarachetta]

This is what I am hoping to finish soon.
https://youtu.be/JjxOeUYAmsk

[azlester]

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Bench_Post_1inch_Square.stl

WOOOHOOOO Perfect!
Thank you so very much

[GWS]

This is what I am hoping to finish soon.

Very neat! Way beyond my knowledgebase though. I tried to understand and play with electronics when I was a kid.....was only successful at the basics....nothing like what you know and do. Good job!

[RedBarachetta]

What program are you guys using to create the 3d parts?

[azlester]

I believe he used SCAD.

[azlester]

Does anyone have a wall hanging bullet/case feeder plate storage solution?
And how do you all store all the bits and pieces(adapters, drop tubes ect)? My wife wants her dinning room table back...LOL

[GWS]

What program are you guys using to create the 3d parts?

As an old Cad designer with 48 years experience with Autocad, I obviously find that easiest for me to use, because I know it. But it's extremely expensive for hobbyists. TylerR uses the free software DesignSpark Mechanical. The Plate Generator however was first created by AmmoMike and improved by TylerR using a "programmer's cad", OpenScad, also free.

In the interest of staying compatible with what TylerR creates, I've been learning DesignSpark too, but I've also used Fusion 360 (web based, but very powerful and free), and even MeshMixer to modify existing .stl files.

One advantage Fusion 360 has being "web-based" is you don't need an expensive computer to use it.

What you need to understand, is that most of these "cad" programs make drawing files, not .stl (print) files compatible with 3Dprinters. The drawing file has to be converted to a .stl file (by the cad software, after you create a 3d cad drawing file....usually a built-in conversion) THEN it has to be "sliced".....made into a .gcode file....by slicer software like Cura, Prusa, or IdeaMaker (most slicers are free software)


Does anyone have a wall hanging bullet/case feeder plate storage solution?
And how do you all store all the bits and pieces(adapters, drop tubes ect)? My wife wants her dinning room table back...LOL

Plate storage? I don't.....least not yet. Plates are often different thicknesses, so that makes it harder....not to mention I have 3 different diameters of plates for small, medium, and large 300mm collator bases. My mind is open to ideas though.

For the other adaptors, drop tubes, ect. I so far am using this sort of thing: (by caliber)

https://i.postimg.cc/439QV4mF/IMG-1606.jpg

[RedBarachetta]

Thanks GWS. I have been playing with OpenSCAD. Blender, and FreeCAD. Blender seems to have lots of extra stuff meant for scene creation and 3d animation. FreeCAD is a bit buggy but works. I am going to give DesignSpark a go. BTW, I don't believe Fusion 360 is free anymore so I am going to avoid it for now. I am nowhere near the skill set that you guys have, but I want to get closer to it.

[RedBarachetta]

Ok, call me an idiot....
What terminals do i use with this photo resistor(on the right hand side of the board)?? I tried googling the symbols but no help at all.
298935
Thank you for all your help!

Did you figure this out? I have one now. I can help out.

[jamg]

I wanted to stop by as a newbie and thank everyone for this resource.

I'm wondering if you use the stock APP clear tube to feed from the collator, or do you utilize the spring as well to the APP. I haven't found an adapter in the instruction manual that appears to interface with the clear tube.

Edit: well just as I posted that. I found the answer on post 4303. So it looks like I'll have everything printed and waiting on springs then.

[GWS]

You can do that way with springs alright.....but you can use the Lee tubes too. For example:

Starting with TylerR's Bracket main over his slider......

https://i.postimg.cc/9FJd08Mr/Bracket-Main.png

Then say you want to process .223 rifle brass...... print the part below and stuff it into the Bracket Main....

https://i.postimg.cc/028G8R9T/APP-Brass-Insert-223.png

Then drop the the proper Lee clear tube adapter into that......either #1,#2, or #3. (which ever one will drop .223 brass nicely into the .223 Brass-insert-223.)

https://i.postimg.cc/QCDQ9v1W/APP-Drop-Tube-1-Adapter.png
APP-Drop-Tube-1-Adapter or.....
https://i.postimg.cc/wMkhhFQ4/APP-Drop-Tube-2-Adapter.png
APP-Drop-Tube-2-Adapter or.....
https://i.postimg.cc/qBcXVMHc/APP-Drop-Tube-3-4-Adapter.png
APP-Drop-Tube-3-4-Adapter or.....

[Hube&Spoke]

I am printing a Collator size 300 and the Mount_Post.stl does not align with the main body holes on the bottom correctly. The MONGO post size is too large. Am I missing another Mount_Post?

[GWS]

TylerR has made a million parts for this project, but he hasn't made every possible way to mount them.....especially not his last and latest base which happens to be your 300mm size. But you don't have to wait for him to do all the work.

What I did is go to Home depot, buy an aluminum angle, and bolt it to the 300 base. Wasn't that hard, just required placing the angle where I wanted it and used a pencil to mark circles through the base holes onto the angle. Then drill a couple of holes. (and I didn't have to wait 8 hours for 2 or 3 parts to print, because once you get that far, it's not hard to drill a larger hole through the other face of the angle and into a vertical post, made of conduit, square tubing, heck even a stained 2x4. Bolt it with a single bolt with washers and a nut, and you have a pivot you can adjust to any angle and tighten.

https://i.postimg.cc/qvk36z4y/IMG-3975.jpg

My support is a little more elaborate, having a hortizontal bar and welded sliding square tube angled "T" extensions, where I mounted a collator on each side, but you don't have to go that far to make something that works just as well and way, way simpler.

Picture below shows a 300mm on the left of the "T" and a normal smaller collator on the right side of the "T"extension.

https://i.postimg.cc/B6KpP71J/IMG-4006.jpg

TylerR's version of the collator-mounted proximity switch is in this picture....works great. But using his shorter prox switch in it is a little more streamlined.

[Hube&Spoke]

OK, thank you for the quick reply. Was planning to go to Home Depot this week anyway so will get some parts for this project.

[jamg]

You can do that way with springs alright.....but you can use the Lee tubes too. For example:

Starting with TylerR's Bracket main over his slider......

https://i.postimg.cc/9FJd08Mr/Bracket-Main.png

Then say you want to process .223 rifle brass...... print the part below and stuff it into the Bracket Main....

https://i.postimg.cc/028G8R9T/APP-Brass-Insert-223.png

Then drop the the proper Lee clear tube adapter into that......either #1,#2, or #3. (which ever one will drop .223 brass nicely into the .223 Brass-insert-223.)

https://i.postimg.cc/QCDQ9v1W/APP-Drop-Tube-1-Adapter.png
APP-Drop-Tube-1-Adapter or.....
https://i.postimg.cc/wMkhhFQ4/APP-Drop-Tube-2-Adapter.png
APP-Drop-Tube-2-Adapter or.....
https://i.postimg.cc/qBcXVMHc/APP-Drop-Tube-3-4-Adapter.png
APP-Drop-Tube-3-4-Adapter or.....

Thank you. I'm not totally following for the APP press as I waiting on it's arrival. I've been looking at the adapters and I'm trying to figure out which ones to print.

For the bullet feeder project is there an adapter that goes from the drop_tube to the spring? and from the spring to the hornady_drop_tube_adapter?

The APP should be here shortly, and having it in hand should hopefully make it easier to figure out. I think I'm looking for the adapter that goes from the drop_tube to the clear lee tube?

[TylerR]

I am printing a Collator size 300 and the Mount_Post.stl does not align with the main body holes on the bottom correctly. The MONGO post size is too large. Am I missing another Mount_Post?

I think you may have something else going on. The holes on the mount post stl do line up. I have printed and tested it myself, and just confirmed it in CAD as well.

[TylerR]

Thank you. I'm not totally following for the APP press as I waiting on it's arrival. I've been looking at the adapters and I'm trying to figure out which ones to print.

For the bullet feeder project is there an adapter that goes from the drop_tube to the spring? and from the spring to the hornady_drop_tube_adapter?

The APP should be here shortly, and having it in hand should hopefully make it easier to figure out. I think I'm looking for the adapter that goes from the drop_tube to the clear lee tube?

If you want to use clear tube between the APP insert (or offset) then yes, there is an adapter that goes from the clear tube to the bottom of the drop tube. These is a picture of that in the project. Or you can just skip the clear tube completely.

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BF556/Feeder/main/Images/IMG_1064.JPG

[GWS]

I think you may have something else going on. The holes on the mount post stl do line up. I have printed and tested it myself, and just confirmed it in CAD as well.

I wondered about that, but I have no way to confirm since I don't use the 3D printed mounts. I figured you probably did have that handled already. That said, I wanted to show that people can mount these collators many ways, some faster than waiting for 3D parts to print and just as effective.


If you want to use clear tube between the APP insert (or offset) then yes, there is an adapter that goes from the clear tube to the bottom of the drop tube. These is a picture of that in the project. Or you can just skip the clear tube completely.


It's a personal thing....I prefer to see the stack behind the clear tube, when I can, but it sure isn't necessary, and you can stretch the tube until you can see somewhat. I usually use both.....the spring tube is less demanding for exactness in location and orientation, so I often use it to transition. Sometimes weirdly.....;) This is how I did it where I didn't have room to get my .223 bullet drop very close to the die location.

https://i.postimg.cc/Rhq3tMHM/IMG-3630.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/cCjvMVRf/IMG-3633.jpg

Those tiny springs came from the local Ace Hardware. and they work just fine. Did not have to wait for the printer or for the slow boat from China. ;) Being open and willing to improvise can sometimes pay dividends.....specially if you have a crowded bench like mine. (that was an old picture.....I have several more collators mounted to that horizontal square tubing rail now....and the small one pictured isn't even used there now..... being my first tiny one it's been replaced by Tyler R's bigger original. (but the tube above is still used there.)

[TylerR]

I wondered about that, but I have no way to confirm since I don't use the 3D printed mounts. I figured you probably did have that handled already. That said, I wanted to show that people can mount these collators many ways, some faster than waiting for 3D parts to print and just as effective.

Absolutely! if there's a will there's a way.

[Hube&Spoke]

I think you may have something else going on. The holes on the mount post stl do line up. I have printed and tested it myself, and just confirmed it in CAD as well.

Thank you @TylerR. The problem is the difference between the curvature radius of the Mount_Post.stl with the 300 sized body curvature radius. The curvature of the post has a smaller radius than the 300 sized body. So the the bottom holes do not match up since the post does not touch the curvature completely and is pushed back (given the curvature differences). I printed the parts twice to make sure that the parts did not had any print failures and it still does not match. I was able to fix it yesterday night by sanding the Mount_Post curvature to have a larger radius. With the curvature fixed the parts fits nicely on the bottom holes (the top sidewall holes always match since the bottom parts are flat).

[jamg]

If you want to use clear tube between the APP insert (or offset) then yes, there is an adapter that goes from the clear tube to the bottom of the drop tube. These is a picture of that in the project. Or you can just skip the clear tube completely.

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BF556/Feeder/main/Images/IMG_1064.JPG

Let me see if I got this right.

If I want to put the drop tube directly on top of the horandy drop tube adapter then I don't need an adapter below it. I'd just need to print the adapter to have the spring go directly to the drop tube. I had previously thought I wanted the drop tube as high as possible to have as much in the tube/spring before shutting off the motor. But I'm not sure that's going to be much of an issue as the collator will likely be faster than I can load or deprime, and it doesn't appear to really give me a ton of advantage.

[jamg]

Actually it looks like drop_tube_alt would get the drop tube directly off the collator for bullet feeding, and directly off the brass_x_drop_hole_adapter for brass feeding.

A thought just crossed my mind. I'm putting together a collator for brass depriming on the Lee app. I will mainly be doing 9mm, but will likely end up doing .38, .40 .44 and .45 acp eventually. Do I actually need drop tubes for each? or could you get away with just printing the biggest diameter drop tube and be able to run all of the calibers?

[GWS]

Actually it looks like drop_tube_alt would get the drop tube directly off the collator for bullet feeding, and directly off the brass_x_drop_hole_adapter for brass feeding.

A thought just crossed my mind. I'm putting together a collator for brass depriming on the Lee app. I will mainly be doing 9mm, but will likely end up doing .38, .40 .44 and .45 acp eventually. Do I actually need drop tubes for each? or could you get away with just printing the biggest diameter drop tube and be able to run all of the calibers?

Your first question I'll defer to TylerR.....I haven't used that combination. But drop tubes on the APP?.....I recommend printing each size drop tube you want to process. Notice the video below: (make it big so you can see) See the cutout in the drop tube for the .357 ones? That cutout is critical for really trouble-free feeding of that caliber.....and the diameter of the drop tube is equally important to feeding them smooth and fast with no hangs.

On drop tubes it is important to use the right shuttle (slide) under it, that is just lower (shorter) than the case. Higher ones will allow the next case to drop also and jam half in and out. Just lower allows the slide to move the dropped case out of the drop spot and allows the next case to drop onto the slide back for the ride to the die and back where it in turn drops, and repeats the process. So you can see why you need the notch for the tall .357. Since each caliber's case is different in height, its the slide/caliber specific downtube combo that makes it work so well.


https://youtu.be/F5tMwynbUUI

Notice in the video that the clear tube is directly placed in the downtube.......that was because I modified the original a little, before I realized TylerR had an adapter to drop into these drop tubes....that's why I had to drill mine a little for direct clear tubing. I'm sure one of the three should drop in TylerR's though...... I think I'll re-examine mine since that .357 one in the video is one I designed.....and I don't know if the top of that .stl is made for TylerR's adaptors. His .40S&W ones are a little different from mine too.:)

[jamg]

Ok I think I'm messing up the terminology, or I'm looking at the wrong drop tubes entirely. I was looking at the drop tubes in the manual at step 6 for both the case feeder for the APP and the bullet feeder for the 1050. It looks like the tube with the notch specifically for the APP press is in step 8 in the manual as app_x_insert_x.

I had thought the drop tubes in the manual at step 6 were needed to house the proximity sensor to stop the feeder from running when the switch is triggered in both bullet feeder and case feeder applications.

[GWS]

Yeah, now I see. You were confusing me too. Step six is the drop tubes for case/bullet detection....the alt version is for sensors near the collator.....the other versions are for sensors mounted at the feed die end.....I much prefer the proximity sensors over switches and light sensors.....they work every time.....very little fiddling and adjustment.

Step eight is the APP stuff....very caliber specific.....less so for bullets .....more so for cases.

At first, when I started this 3d project, I didn't realize I'd want 5 collators ever in my dreams.....so I wanted the sensors mounted next to the collator where I could move the collator and sensor together from one press to another...........then I had so much fun printing collators, and had a specific use for each that I quit worrying about moving them and the sensors.

So now what I have is one progressive for pistol where I have a modified Hornady (not 3d printed)pistol bullet collator but using TylerR's wonderful bullet feeder dies, and a TylerR Original size collator to feed pistol cases.

Then I have another 7station progressive for rifle.....TylerR Original size bullet collator.....and a larger 300mm collator for cases.

And finally I have an original AmmoMike tiny collator for to feed my APP (for now.....will probably print one more TylerR original to replace it......since I use it mainly to deprime and swage both rifle and pistol brass.....I will most likely never size boolits.....I don't even own a lead furnace or molds.) ;)

[jamg]

My apologies GWS. While I've had my 3d printer for a while I've never undertook a project to this scale, and two at the same time at that.

[GWS]

Happy to help where I can.....part of the fun. Warning though.....the addiction only grows. :)

BTW, since you want to deprime pistol cases, print one of TylerR's APP slider (shuttle) bases! It has a support at the bottom that Lee's shuttle base doesn't. It makes life much sweeter not to have case bases tilt and either fall or worse get jammed in the Lee shell holder. It's the most important part IMO. Originally I made a wire protrusion out of a paperclip that did the job, but TylerR perfected and simplified it......waaay better. Two are offered....print the one with the shorter support first as it will do most calibers. The other is for recessed base brass that maybe might give you trouble. So far the shorter one works for me.

[Sgt Beer Belly]

SOLD Not sure if I can post this here.

In case someone needs one.
I bought this Dayton 52JE51 Motor gearbox about a month ago, I barely used it.
$50 shipped to your door

Admin please move/delete if this post is not allowed.
SOLD
299619

[TylerR]

Thank you @TylerR. The problem is the difference between the curvature radius of the Mount_Post.stl with the 300 sized body curvature radius. The curvature of the post has a smaller radius than the 300 sized body. So the the bottom holes do not match up since the post does not touch the curvature completely and is pushed back (given the curvature differences). I printed the parts twice to make sure that the parts did not had any print failures and it still does not match. I was able to fix it yesterday night by sanding the Mount_Post curvature to have a larger radius. With the curvature fixed the parts fits nicely on the bottom holes (the top sidewall holes always match since the bottom parts are flat).

Looking at it now, I realized I printed a newer version of that part that is not as wide. At some point I realized the extra width was just a waste. I have posted the newer version of Mount_Post to downloads. Glad you found a work around.

[jamg]

Happy to help where I can.....part of the fun. Warning though.....the addiction only grows. :)

BTW, since you want to deprime pistol cases, print one of TylerR's APP slider (shuttle) bases! It has a support at the bottom that Lee's shuttle base doesn't. It makes life much sweeter not to have case bases tilt and either fall or worse get jammed in the Lee shell holder. It's the most important part IMO. Originally I made a wire protrusion out of a paperclip that did the job, but TylerR perfected ans simplified it......waaay better. Two are offered....print the one with the shorter support first as it will do most calibers. The other is for recessed base brass that maybe might give you trouble. So far the shorter one works for me.

Ok got the Lee APP installed. That sounds like something I definitely need to print out. I find that every so often I'm launching shells out of the shellholder. Some of that is the cases falling after tilting, the other part is the universal lee decapping die doesn't appear to always knock out the primer fully.

So I'm looking at the brass feedering project on the Lee APP right now. And I have the main body left to print. I have the assembly with the brass slide plate to the brass drop hole adapter to the drop tube with proximity sensor. I'm trying to find the adapter I'd need to go from the drop tube now to the clear tube on the APP. Part I Drop_hole_drop_tube_adapter sounds like what I need, but looking at the picture it doesn't quite look like what I'd expect.

[TylerR]

Ok got the Lee APP installed. That sounds like something I definitely need to print out. I find that every so often I'm launching shells out of the shellholder. Some of that is the cases falling after tilting, the other part is the universal lee decapping die doesn't appear to always knock out the primer fully.

So I'm looking at the brass feedering project on the Lee APP right now. And I have the main body left to print. I have the assembly with the brass slide plate to the brass drop hole adapter to the drop tube with proximity sensor. I'm trying to find the adapter I'd need to go from the drop tube now to the clear tube on the APP. Part I Drop_hole_drop_tube_adapter sounds like what I need, but looking at the picture it doesn't quite look like what I'd expect.

APP_Drop_Tube_#X_Adapter. it goes from the bottom of the drop tube to one of the 4 sizes of APP clear tubes.

[Hube&Spoke]

Looking at it now, I realized I printed a newer version of that part that is not as wide. At some point I realized the extra width was just a waste. I have posted the newer version of Mount_Post to downloads. Glad you found a work around.

Thank you TylerR. I already built a Standard sized, a 300 sized, and now I am in the process of building a Mongo sized Collator. You did a great job building all of these parts along with the members of this forum.

I do have a question on how to connect the Sweeper_Long part to the Collator? It says to clamps onto the flipper housing but I am little dense and cannot figure out the correct way to do it? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you again.

[jamg]

APP_Drop_Tube_#X_Adapter. it goes from the bottom of the drop tube to one of the 4 sizes of APP clear tubes.

I'm messing up the terms again, I apologize. I printed the drop_tube_alt to put the drop tube just off the brass side plate and brass drop hole adapter. The drop_tube_alt looks to have a twist connection on the bottom that I need to find a way to adapt to the clear tube.

[GWS]

Thank you TylerR. I already built a Standard sized, a 300 sized, and now I am in the process of building a Mongo sized Collator. You did a great job building all of these parts along with the members of this forum.

I do have a question on how to connect the Sweeper_Long part to the Collator? It says to clamps onto the flipper housing but I am little dense and cannot figure out the correct way to do it? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you again.


https://youtu.be/KQ1N28gYvw8

That's the short one, but the long one goes on the same way. (was not that easy to hold the camera and demonstrate at the same time....especially since I've lost 50% of my dexterity in last 5 years. ;) (Tyler.....if that question keeps coming up, you are welcome to that video...just threw it together tonight, not fancy, but at least it answers the question.)


I'm messing up the terms again, I apologize. I printed the drop_tube_alt to put the drop tube just off the brass side plate and brass drop hole adapter. The drop_tube_alt looks to have a twist connection on the bottom that I need to find a way to adapt to the clear tube.

Its in the adapters section, but there's more than one....and I don't have them memorized. :) Too many tubes sizes for one thing. Doesn't the manual have a little chart that specifies clear tube sizes for them? I'm sure TylerR will be along, but he has a family and a wife that comes first. ;)

[Hube&Spoke]

https://youtu.be/KQ1N28gYvw8

That's the short one, but the long one goes on the same way. (was not that easy to hold the camera and demonstrate at the same time....especially since I've lost 50% of my dexterity in last 5 years. ;) (Tyler.....if that question keeps coming up, you are welcome to that video...just threw it together tonight, not fancy, but at least it answers the question.)



Its in the adapters section, but there's more than one....and I don't have them memorized. :) Too many tubes sizes for one thing. Doesn't the manual have a little chart that specifies clear tube sizes for them? I'm sure TylerR will be along, but he has a family and a wife that comes first. ;)


Thank You GWS. The video really helped and resolved my question.

[jamg]

https://youtu.be/KQ1N28gYvw8

That's the short one, but the long one goes on the same way. (was not that easy to hold the camera and demonstrate at the same time....especially since I've lost 50% of my dexterity in last 5 years. ;) (Tyler.....if that question keeps coming up, you are welcome to that video...just threw it together tonight, not fancy, but at least it answers the question.)



Its in the adapters section, but there's more than one....and I don't have them memorized. :) Too many tubes sizes for one thing. Doesn't the manual have a little chart that specifies clear tube sizes for them? I'm sure TylerR will be along, but he has a family and a wife that comes first. ;)

Family first. I'm doing most if not all of my tinkering after everyone else is asleep =)

I'm going to go ahead and print the APP replacement parts, as I'll need those. From there I just need to figure out which adapter it is. I'll eventually find it.

The sweeper is ingenious, honestly this entire design is very very very impressive. I found myself having some trouble visualizing somethings, but after printing it and spending the time to put it together this entire project has been very well thought out.

[GWS]

Family first. I'm doing most if not all of my tinkering after everyone else is asleep =)

I'm going to go ahead and print the APP replacement parts, as I'll need those. From there I just need to figure out which adapter it is. I'll eventually find it.

The sweeper is ingenious, honestly this entire design is very very very impressive. I found myself having some trouble visualizing somethings, but after printing it and spending the time to put it together this entire project has been very well thought out.

Yes, TylerR is ingenius, pure and simple.

For .308 and taller cases, I felt I needed another "sweeper" for the bigger 300mm collator....more towards the back so cases wouldn't bunch up too close to the outlet. So I donated still another part to the cause: TylerR called it the "Large Sweeper" and it mounts to existing holes on the right side of the 300mm collator base. The vertical adjustment slots was TylerR's idea...I had multiple holes...slots be better. ;) Picture and a quick video of that below:

https://i.postimg.cc/SKc6ppnz/case_deflector_large.png


https://youtu.be/-hDs9eLVxzw

I am most amazed with Cast Boolits, who allows this thread to continue this long.....without their contribution it wouldn't be available to us at all.

[azlester]

Yep, I got it figured out and it works well....now if I can just figure out why my bullets are getting jammed up between the drop tube and the bullet loading die. When they first drop down they go right into the die easy peasy....after whats in the die is used I have to tap it firmly to get them to drop down...when they do drop down there are some jammed up in the drop tube and have to do the same thing to get them to drop and start the motor back up. 9mm 124gr powder coated sized to .356. using the medium adapter and 11mm I.D. spring.

[jamg]

5 hours left on the main body and at 6am I ran out of filament. Thankfully I added a filament runout sensor.

The main body will be 3/4 green and 1/4 purple lol.

I finished the wiring on the bullet feeder one. Just waiting on the springs now. I picked up some springs at home depot, but I think they're going to be too short.

[GWS]

Yep, I got it figured out and it works well....now if I can just figure out why my bullets are getting jammed up between the drop tube and the bullet loading die. When they first drop down they go right into the die easy peasy....after whats in the die is used I have to tap it firmly to get them to drop down...when they do drop down there are some jammed up in the drop tube and have to do the same thing to get them to drop and start the motor back up. 9mm 124gr powder coated sized to .356. using the medium adapter and 11mm I.D. spring.


If I were to guess, is would be......9mm in a 11mm spring may be enough extra room to tilt the bullets and allow them to jam up..........or......the transitions between spring and tube may have a shelf or lip to hang a bullet. Gotta be smooth in those transitions......

Third possibility is the drop tubes are not smooth inside. Find a drill bit close to the i.s. diameter and run it back and forth manually in there to eliminate any strings, blobs, or roughness inside. You might even have to run a round file inside or some acetone soaked rag wrapped bit through it.

Slicer settings to stop stringing and blobs will prevent 95% of that grief, but such settings are slicer specific. I use IdeaMaker, and you probably use another.....so my setting may not be any help.


5 hours left on the main body and at 6am I ran out of filament. Thankfully I added a filament runout sensor.

The main body will be 3/4 green and 1/4 purple lol.

I finished the wiring on the bullet feeder one. Just waiting on the springs now. I picked up some springs at home depot, but I think they're going to be too short.

Depending on how short, you may be able to stretch the springs .....besides making them longer, it will provide some see through.....but not too much or bullets will hang.

[azlester]

If I were to guess, is would be......9mm in a 11mm spring may be enough extra room to tilt the bullets and allow them to jam up..........or......the transitions between spring and tube may have a shelf or lip to hang a bullet. Gotta be smooth in those transitions......

Third possibility is the drop tubes are not smooth inside. Find a drill bit close to the i.s. diameter and run it back and forth manually in there to eliminate any strings, blobs, or roughness inside. You might even have to run a round file inside or some acetone soaked rag wrapped bit through it.

Slicer settings to stop stringing and blobs will prevent 95% of that grief, but such settings are slicer specific. I use IdeaMaker, and you probably use another.....so my setting may not be any help.

There aren't any blobs or strings on any of the parts... I am thinking that the size of the spring and adapters are allowing the bullets to get cockeyed and blocking up the works. It is the flat base of the bullets that's causing the problem.. if the went in nose down they don't get hung up. Have to wait a month for the next size smaller spring... and cost me an extra $12... I may see if I can print something up that will act like a funnel of sorts for the joints of the adapter connectors in the mean time.

[jamg]

If you want to use clear tube between the APP insert (or offset) then yes, there is an adapter that goes from the clear tube to the bottom of the drop tube. These is a picture of that in the project. Or you can just skip the clear tube completely.

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BF556/Feeder/main/Images/IMG_1064.JPG

What adapter is off the drop tube to the clear tube in this picture?

Any hints on printing the base slide? I've printed several and I haven't been able to get them to slide smoothly on the APP press, even after filing and trying to clean up the print.

[GWS]

There aren't any blobs or strings on any of the parts... I am thinking that the size of the spring and adapters are allowing the bullets to get cockeyed and blocking up the works. It is the flat base of the bullets that's causing the problem.. if the went in nose down they don't get hung up. Have to wait a month for the next size smaller spring... and cost me an extra $12... I may see if I can print something up that will act like a funnel of sorts for the joints of the adapter connectors in the mean time.

One of the important basics here is making sure the I.S. diameter of the spring is not smaller in diameter than the I.S. diameter of the top spring adapter.
And likewise, making sure the I.S. diameter of the LOWER spring adapter is not smaller than the spring's I.S. diameter. Otherwise, in both cases, a shelf is protruding at those junctions to catch the base of your bullets.

The third thing that can catch bullet bases, is if the spring is stretched too far and bent too far around curves which would allow the bases to be trapped between coils. And you are right in the observation that the more room a bullet has to tilt, the easier it can get so trapped. I think I've covered most possibilities....if not TylerR will surely think of it, and share.;)

You say there's no blobs or strings, but be safe and run a drill bit just under the diameter, using a hand in and out, through the inside a few times....it only takes one spot to give you grief.

[GWS]

What adapter is off the drop tube to the clear tube in this picture?


Not my stuff, but if it's Lee's 9/16 clear tubing, it's probably "APP_Drop_Tube_#3_#4_Adapter.stl" Don't know where TylerR is....I hope on vacation!:) Vacation for me is getting to stay home.....

Any hints on printing the base slide? I've printed several and I haven't been able to get them to slide smoothly on the APP press, even after filing and trying to clean up the print.

I don't remember having much trouble with the base slide. It may be a calibration problem on your printer, or print settings like retraction that's causing blobs and strings. I would try burnishing with graphite first. I ALWAYS burnish with graphite, both on lees shuttle ramp and on every shuttle slide. Makes them a lot slicker.

If I had a pretty bad fit, I'd probably start with needle files, an X-acto knife, very fine sandpaper.....say 400 to 2400 grit, to start, then plastic polish, then graphite powder bought at an automotive parts store.

[azlester]

One of the important basics here is making sure the I.S. diameter of the spring is not smaller in diameter than the I.S. diameter of the top spring adapter.
And likewise, making sure the I.S. diameter of the LOWER spring adapter is not smaller than the spring's I.S. diameter. Otherwise, in both cases, a shelf is protruding at those junctions to catch the base of your bullets.

The third thing that can catch bullet bases, is if the spring is stretched too far and bent too far around curves which would allow the bases to be trapped between coils. And you are right in the observation that the more room a bullet has to tilt, the easier it can get so trapped. I think I've covered most possibilities....if not TylerR will surely think of it, and share.;)

You say there's no blobs or strings, but be safe and run a drill bit just under the diameter, using a hand in and out, through the inside a few times....it only takes one spot to give you grief.

After I learned a few tricks in Tinkercad I was able to design these... they are what I call splices to reduce the opening at the spring and adapter joints above the bullet feeder... made one for 9mm/38 and one for 7.62 bullets. I have been waiting for my replacement CR Touch to get here so I can try and print them out and see if they will work or not.299751

[Tom Myers]

What adapter is off the drop tube to the clear tube in this picture?

Any hints on printing the base slide? I've printed several and I haven't been able to get them to slide smoothly on the APP press, even after filing and trying to clean up the print.

Try turning the slide with the flat side down on the printing bed, and then enable Supports everywhere.

[GWS]

After I learned a few tricks in Tinkercad I was able to design these... they are what I call splices to reduce the opening at the spring and adapter joints above the bullet feeder... made one for 9mm/38 and one for 7.62 bullets. I have been waiting for my replacement CR Touch to get here so I can try and print them out and see if they will work or not.299751

Clicking your attachment didn't work for me for some reason.....says, "Invalid Attachment specified."

[jamg]

I don't remember having much trouble with the base slide. It may be a calibration problem on your printer, or print settings like retraction that's causing blobs and strings. I would try burnishing with graphite first. I ALWAYS burnish with graphite, both on lees shuttle ramp and on every shuttle slide. Makes them a lot slicker.

If I had a pretty bad fit, I'd probably start with needle files, an X-acto knife, very fine sandpaper.....say 400 to 2400 grit, to start, then plastic polish, then graphite powder bought at an automotive parts store.


Try turning the slide with the flat side down on the printing bed, and then enable Supports everywhere.

Thank you both, I'll give that a shot.

[azlester]

Clicking your attachment didn't work for me for some reason.....says, "Invalid Attachment specified."

Let's try this again.... It is an 11mm tube with the top funnel shaped to make the bullets slide in without getting tilted and locked up. One is for 9mm the other is for 308 bullets.
299850

[GWS]

Let's try this again.... It is an 11mm tube with the top funnel shaped to make the bullets slide in without getting tilted and locked up. One is for 9mm the other is for 308 bullets.
299850

Where and how is this "splice" used? For Spring tubing or Clear Tubing? 11mm is I.S. diameter?

The following is what I had to make to go from clear tubing UP to my Proximity sensor Tee using the RCBS small tube inside the large clear tube for 223 just the larger tube for 308. (the clear tubes that came with my RCBS Pro Chucker 7 case feeder).

https://i.postimg.cc/ydYCHnTx/RCBS-Clear-Tube-Connection.png

I used transparent mode to show how the insides look....the clear parts are the RCBS tubes. On my press, when you collate smaller cases you just drop the small tubing inside the large one. Unusual, but it works.

[jamg]

Have been waiting on the springs coming over on the boat, but I found a spring at home depot that appears to work fine with 9mm at home depot. Oddly it does not appear to be available at all home depots, but you can utilize brickseek to see if a specific store has it. Home depot internet number 202045460. Spring adapter 12 appears to work fine with this spring.

EDIT: LOL just got an email saying the springs coming over on the boat are at the local delivery point.

[azlester]

Where and how is this "splice" used? For Spring tubing or Clear Tubing? 11mm is I.S. diameter?

The following is what I had to make to go from clear tubing UP to my Proximity sensor Tee using the RCBS small tube inside the large clear tube for 223 just the larger tube for 308. (the clear tubes that came with my RCBS Pro Chucker 7 case feeder).

https://i.postimg.cc/ydYCHnTx/RCBS-Clear-Tube-Connection.png

I used transparent mode to show how the insides look....the clear parts are the RCBS tubes. On my press, when you collate smaller cases you just drop the small tubing inside the large one. Unusual, but it works.

Well it appears that my first attempt at designing something kind of works...it resolved 95% of the problem feeding 9mm bullets to the bullet feeding die. It will work until my new smaller springs arrive.
GWS I sure wish I had your design skills! those look fantastic!!

[GWS]

Autocad has to have something to set it apart.....not that it's that important to have that "look-in-side" mode (and most cad systems have similar attempts at it they call X-ray), but since it does it well I thought you'd be interested in seeing the "funnel" inside that makes the parts work well......and you can probably duplicate that on your software. I was just giving you food for thought.

I've been on Autocad for nearly 50 years.....but.....on the 3D side of it only 2 years!;) Had to buy a 3d printer to even be interested in learning it. Architecture is not feasible to do it 3D except for just renderings....and even they cost more money and time than most people are willing to pay for.

[kmitchl]

In reading this thread it appears that a number of people have made significant contributions to the open source bullet feeder. I printed most of the parts I needed for a 9mm setup back when Ammomike83 was involved and the files were still on Thingiverse. I just had the time to complete this project and find I need the parts for 40 cal, 223 and 45 cal. Can someone point me to the Ammomike83 files or something close.

[djinnpb]

So for those that ebay up the Autonics sensor, any recently got from a quality seller? I have a genuine one but ordered another as a spare from ashleytrade1984* (26900) and it's about as fake as it could be. label is a sticker, not laser printed, etc. Straight from China. So make sure if you snag one from the slow boat you actually get a real one. Pic of the fake (on bottom) and a genuine one on top:
300084

[GWS]

So for those that ebay up the Autonics sensor, any recently got from a quality seller? I have a genuine one but ordered another as a spare from ashleytrade1984* (26900) and it's about as fake as it could be. label is a sticker, not laser printed, etc. Straight from China. So make sure if you snag one from the slow boat you actually get a real one. Pic of the fake (on bottom) and a genuine one on top:


What if the label is just cost-cutting at Autonics? How sure are you that it's fake? Probably both were made in China.....like my laptop, and my Apple phone. ;)

I have an Autonics.....different model with a green sensor.....but it has the sticker, Model # PRD18-14DN2, but it also has an LED that goes on when the sensor is activated instead of the accordion cord end. There's a lot of info on the sticker....circuit-wise. You suppose the old label might be under the new one? Or if not, that the old way of labeling made it harder to add the circuit info?.....just thoughts, no definitive knowledge. Curious tho.

Mine seems to work fine.

[TylerR]

What if the label is just cost-cutting at Autonics? How sure are you that it's fake? Probably both were made in China.....like my laptop, and my Apple phone. ;)

I have an Autonics.....different model with a green sensor.....but it has the sticker, Model # PRD18-14DN2, but it also has an LED that goes on when the sensor is activated instead of the accordion cord end. There's a lot of info on the sticker....circuit-wise. You suppose the old label might be under the new one? Or if not, that the old way of labeling made it harder to add the circuit info?.....just thoughts, no definitive knowledge. Curious tho.

Mine seems to work fine.

I think you are probably correct GWS. I also have some that I ordered from China. They actually have the green tip, and a sticker for the label. Looking at the packaging I believe it is a genuine Autonics product not a knockoff. I am sure they all are produced in China. I have not ordered one stateside recently so it is possible they just changed how they were doing the label.

[djinnpb]

What if the label is just cost-cutting at Autonics? How sure are you that it's fake? Probably both were made in China.....like my laptop, and my Apple phone. ;)



I think you are probably correct GWS. I also have some that I ordered from China. They actually have the green tip, and a sticker for the label. Looking at the packaging I believe it is a genuine Autonics product not a knockoff. I am sure they all are produced in China. I have not ordered one stateside recently so it is possible they just changed how they were doing the label.

So I sent pictures and called Autonics and apparently it's a big thing to copy and make it look like it. I mean they're all made in China, so specs and function are all the same. And for the cost difference, I'm not upset. Ah according to Autonics, none should be a sticker on it, it's laser printed and the 14DN2 should be lasered on the flat part of the blue. Guy said "don't recommend buying off ebay happens a lot" :P Though just like you guys it works fine and 16-17 versus 32 is fine by me. Tested it against the genuine and seems to work just as well. Oh and the bag should have a barcode not a QR code sticker. Actually just bought for a spare anyways or an excuse for an extra feeder just for the APP.

Oh and forgot it was amazingly fast delivery. Took 18 days from order to delivery, transit was 12. Was quick. Of course when you really need something, it takes 4 months (last time I ordered a skr board for one of my printers)

[GWS]

Mine came from Amazon not Ebay.....and as I said it came with an LED base not a rubber flex base.....and it wasn't cheap...$32.

https://www.amazon.com/AUTONICS-PRD18-14DN2-Inductive-Shielded-Sensing/dp/B00TXXH4OA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=16FMM9QOFRH87&keywords=autonics+prd18-14DN2&qid=1652498757&sprefix=au%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-1

Also strange, the Ad as you will notice has a Yellow sensor, not a blue. Yet came olive green. Talk about a confusing mess.

Here's a picture of what I got and it's packaging:

https://i.postimg.cc/tT5VH25Z/IMG-3980.jpg

What is Laser printed on the end of the plastic sensor is "R115CR"

https://i.postimg.cc/J0c29mqP/IMG-4036.jpg

If the Chinese have this bad a problem with patents, not much we can do to prevent it.....they've got to stop it from China. Makes me wonder if Autonics buys them from a common manufacturer, who also sells nameless versions to others to which they can apply their own markings and packaging or copy Autonics. Maybe we will never know.;) Reminds me of Berrys Bullets who makes RCBS's green media separater and their own blue one and two others that I know of....and they are identical except for color.

BTW the LED base is lit when powered up and turns off when metal is sensed, both the light and power.......which means I have no reason to buy a lit switch.

[TylerR]

So I sent pictures and called Autonics and apparently it's a big thing to copy and make it look like it. I mean they're all made in China, so specs and function are all the same. And for the cost difference, I'm not upset. Ah according to Autonics, none should be a sticker on it, it's laser printed and the 14DN2 should be lasered on the flat part of the blue. Guy said "don't recommend buying off ebay happens a lot" :P Though just like you guys it works fine and 16-17 versus 32 is fine by me. Tested it against the genuine and seems to work just as well. Oh and the bag should have a barcode not a QR code sticker. Actually just bought for a spare anyways or an excuse for an extra feeder just for the APP.

Oh and forgot it was amazingly fast delivery. Took 18 days from order to delivery, transit was 12. Was quick. Of course when you really need something, it takes 4 months (last time I ordered a skr board for one of my printers)

That is great info, thank you. You are right, performance may be exactly the same but it is nice to know the difference.

[azlester]

Just curious if anyone has ever tried using the APP case feeder main body on a Lee Loadmaster for case feeding instead of the Lee Universal set up...

[GWS]

Just curious if anyone has ever tried using the APP case feeder main body on a Lee Loadmaster for case feeding instead of the Lee Universal set up...

I don't have a Loadmaster to try, but looking at Lee's walk-around video of it, it appears the case loading is very similar to the APP......and the fact that you can use the Universal 4-way on the APP (an option on the instruction sheet) leads one to believe it would be possible.

I'm assuming you want to, so you can use the collator you just built on the Loadmaster? If so, maybe TylerR's quick change could work too. Let us know!:)

If you need parts, here's a handy list to help:

# PA2118 Case feed spring = https://leeprecision.com/case-feed-spring.html

# PA4342App case inserter assembly = https://leeprecision.com/app-case-inserter-assembly.html

# PA4360 Molded tube supports = https://leeprecision.com/molded-tube-supports.html
(https://leeprecision.com/molded-tube-supports.html)
# FT2457 Bolt = https://leeprecision.com/1-4-20-x-2-3-4-tap.html

# FT1994 Nuts (3 required) = https://leeprecision.com/1-4-20x7-16-7-32thic.html

# PA4384 Molded parts risers = https://leeprecision.com/molded-parts-risers.html

Tubes (1 of each) =
BF3489 https://leeprecision.com/lg-feed-tube.html
BF3490 https://leeprecision.com/sm-feed-tube-cut-17.html
PA4340 https://leeprecision.com/1-4x15-hvy-wall-tube.html
TR2458 https://leeprecision.com/oe-tubing-9-16-x15.html

X-Press shell holders = https://leeprecision.com/X-PRESS-Shell-Holders-Category/

[kmitchl]

Any tricks to printing the 45 cal bullet feeder die? I have tried twice. Both times the wall thickness at the recess that lets the balls retract to allow bullets to pass is so thin it fails in the body threads. Second try I went from 20% fill to 95% fill. Maybe change the layer height to .12? Redesign for 3mm balls?

[azlester]

I don't have a Loadmaster to try, but looking at Lee's walk-around video of it, it appears the case loading is very similar to the APP......and the fact that you can use the Universal 4-way on the APP (an option on the instruction sheet) leads one to believe it would be possible.

I'm assuming you want to, so you can use the collator you just built on the Loadmaster? If so, maybe TylerR's quick change could work too. Let us know!:)

If you need parts, here's a handy list to help:

# PA2118 Case feed spring = https://leeprecision.com/case-feed-spring.html

# PA4342App case inserter assembly = https://leeprecision.com/app-case-inserter-assembly.html

# PA4360 Molded tube supports = https://leeprecision.com/molded-tube-supports.html
(https://leeprecision.com/molded-tube-supports.html)
# FT2457 Bolt = https://leeprecision.com/1-4-20-x-2-3-4-tap.html

# FT1994 Nuts (3 required) = https://leeprecision.com/1-4-20x7-16-7-32thic.html

# PA4384 Molded parts risers = https://leeprecision.com/molded-parts-risers.html

Tubes (1 of each) =
BF3489 https://leeprecision.com/lg-feed-tube.html
BF3490 https://leeprecision.com/sm-feed-tube-cut-17.html
PA4340 https://leeprecision.com/1-4x15-hvy-wall-tube.html
TR2458 https://leeprecision.com/oe-tubing-9-16-x15.html

X-Press shell holders = https://leeprecision.com/X-PRESS-Shell-Holders-Category/

I have 3 of the Lee 4 tube set ups... Yes, I want to use the case collator to feed it. I printed up an extra APP Bracket main and already had the various case tubes printed. I tried the 45acp and the 9mm case inserts. They both kind of worked.. so I tried the bullet inserts and they seemed to work a bit better but still not 100%. I was using the short factory Lee case slider(latest version). There was still too much room from top of the slider to the case insert and the cases were getting tilted causing them to sometime drop fine and other times falling down on their sides. i am going to try some other ways and see what I can get to work.

[GWS]

I have 3 of the Lee 4 tube set ups... Yes, I want to use the case collator to feed it. I printed up an extra APP Bracket main and already had the various case tubes printed. I tried the 45acp and the 9mm case inserts. They both kind of worked.. so I tried the bullet inserts and they seemed to work a bit better but still not 100%. I was using the short factory Lee case slider(latest version). There was still too much room from top of the slider to the case insert and the cases were getting tilted causing them to sometime drop fine and other times falling down on their sides. i am going to try some other ways and see what I can get to work.

The case slider has to be as tall as possible, but not taller than a dropped case.....

Not this:
https://i.postimg.cc/52wb2jVp/IMG-4038.jpg

This:
https://i.postimg.cc/mrBRzRZ4/IMG-4039.jpg

Too low and it is more likely to drop crooked.

Also print TylerR's lower slide part with the tongue at the bottom to push cases from the base.

This part:

https://i.postimg.cc/VsFLS3RY/APP-slider.png

Bullets? Ask TylerR, I don't size boolits on the APP....

[GWS]

Any tricks to printing the 45 cal bullet feeder die? I have tried twice. Both times the wall thickness at the recess that lets the balls retract to allow bullets to pass is so thin it fails in the body threads. Second try I went from 20% fill to 95% fill. Maybe change the layer height to .12? Redesign for 3mm balls?

For sure change the layer height to .12. My fill is usually about 18% and they work great. TylerR may have more insights.....

[TylerR]

Any tricks to printing the 45 cal bullet feeder die? I have tried twice. Both times the wall thickness at the recess that lets the balls retract to allow bullets to pass is so thin it fails in the body threads. Second try I went from 20% fill to 95% fill. Maybe change the layer height to .12? Redesign for 3mm balls?

This is an issue caused by your slicer. I have never run in to this issue with Cura default settings. With some of the other slicers you have to look in to the "thin wall" settings.

[azlester]

well so far the pistol set up on the Loadmaster seems to be working well... the rifle not so much. I added 15mm in Cura to the length of the brass insert on the 300 blk insert and everything worked great up until the last 2 pieces... then they both came out. Not perfect but if that's the only problem I have then I am considering it a win! Printing up the 223 insert and we will see how well that works in a couple of hours.
I am using the factory slider with Tyler's quick change set up and the APP offset with the factory tube.

I tried uploading a picture 10 time and it failed every one of them...

[GWS]

......................I added 15mm in Cura to the length of the brass insert on the 300 blk insert and everything worked great up until the last 2 pieces... then they both came out.

That also happened to me with rifle .....last two or two at a time somewhere....

I fixed it with a shaped profile.....instead of a plain cutout. Such is better at keeping the next one up.....in the tube where it belongs.

https://i.postimg.cc/CLF73htS/IMG-3921.jpg


Printing up the 223 insert and we will see how well that works in a couple of hours.
I am using the factory slider with Tyler's quick change set up and the APP offset with the factory tube.

I tried uploading a picture 10 time and it failed every one of them...

The factory slider base only works well for a few calibers...the rest tip over. Print TylerR's which pushes from the bottom where it should.

The picture above shows the two .223's we've tried.....the right one prevents the two at a time.....the other one allows sideways ejections sometimes.

As for pictures on this forum, brackets surrounding IMG before the host url and brackets surrounding /IMG after the host url is how I do it. My picture host is postimage.com. (no spaces allowed)

[GWS]

Below, my experience with the cutout.

https://youtu.be/_7FquLSJVq4

Below, my experience with the shaped one.

https://youtu.be/xQfchCIpMqE

[azlester]

The current 223 insert has a shaped opening and it is still doing it for me... like I said no real biggie. The 300 blackout doesn't have much of a shaped neck to begin with.

[GWS]

Let see a video......are you using a tall enough slide?

[TylerR]

That also happened to me with rifle .....last two or two at a time somewhere....

I fixed it with a shaped profile.....instead of a plain cutout. Such is better at keeping the next one up.....in the tube where it belongs.

The factory slider base only works well for a few calibers...the rest tip over. Print TylerR's which pushes from the bottom where it should.

The picture above shows the two .223's we've tried.....the right one prevents the two at a time.....the other one allows sideways ejections sometimes.

As for pictures on this forum, brackets surrounding IMG before the host url and brackets surrounding /IMG after the host url is how I do it. My picture host is postimage.com. (no spaces allowed)

Your idea to shape the cutout was a huge improvement to the design.

[GWS]

Your idea to shape the cutout was a huge improvement to the design.

Additionally that type of profile carries even a square shape, as on straight-wall pistol farther out to push only forward.....but just as critical, the height of the down tube has to be very close to the slide pusher, so there's no out of control dropping. I'll try to take a vertical picture of the profile difference as that's where it made the biggest difference.

Your quick-change drop system made it possible. Beats the heck out of Lee's original ideas. What I did was limited to what I shoot....300 blackout wasn't one of them.....so if it's shaped you must of done that. Should we do more of the profiles, or is what we did enough?

[TylerR]

Additionally that type of profile carries even a square shape, as on straight-wall pistol farther out to push only forward.....but just as critical, the height of the down tube has to be very close to the slide pusher, so there's no out of control dropping. I'll try to take a vertical picture of the profile difference as that's where it made the biggest difference.

Your quick-change drop system made it possible. Beats the heck out of Lee's original ideas. What I did was limited to what I shoot....300 blackout wasn't one of them.....so if it's shaped you must of done that. Should we do more of the profiles, or is what we did enough?

I used your concept and shaped the rest of them. With the 300BO there really is not much of a cutout to begin with. It is only 2mm long, so nothing to really shape. I can take a second look at it though when I get a chance.

[GWS]

I used your concept and shaped the rest of them. With the 300BO there really is not much of a cutout to begin with. It is only 2mm long, so nothing to really shape. I can take a second look at it though when I get a chance.

Great! Don't know what azlester has then. But here's the picture promised that shows the end profiles, and one to show how close I have the .223 to the top of the slide. Maybe he can see if his is different to that one that works.

https://i.postimg.cc/4y3J52Pm/IMG-4040.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/5ykfk5Kp/IMG-3967.jpg

The gnawed surface on the downtube was a flaw in printing.... or maybe I have rats. :)

[azlester]

I shot a video for you this morning... i apologize up front because it is almost the worst video I ever shot! lol
I have a few of those flaws myself... but I guess I am lucky as they aren't anyplace the matters except for appearance. I am a lot more concerned with function and a lot less about how it looks. LOL
My internet connection out here in the middle of no where Mississippi really sucks... takes a long time to upload videos. As soon as it is done I will post a link to it.

[azlester]

Well here it is....https://youtu.be/fFJIObhYpCs

[TylerR]

Well here it is....https://youtu.be/fFJIObhYpCs

I can answer the question about the red tab that makes contact with the rail and causes friction. You actually need some friction so that the slide does not move completely freely. If it has no resistance, the spring that pushes it back will not properly open up the jaws fully. That is why Lee has that red tab there to make contact with the rail and slow the slide down slightly. Here is the problem. I have recently purchased another app press, as well as some spare rails, and the width of the rail on these new ones is thinner then the original. So the red tab makes no contact on the rail and it slides too freely. To address that I added the little nub that pushes on the tab forcing it to make more contact. That nub can now be customized to get the perfect amount of tension. If it is too much tension then you can file down 1/2mm or so at a time until you get just the right amount.

So the short answer is grab a small file and take off just a tiny bit of the nub, reassemble it and test again. rinse and repeat until you have what you need. If Lee had more consistency in the manufacturing of that rail none of this would be necessary.

[azlester]

I can answer the question about the red tab that makes contact with the rail and causes friction. You actually need some friction so that the slide does not move completely freely. If it has no resistance, the spring that pushes it back will not properly open up the jaws fully. That is why Lee has that red tab there to make contact with the rail and slow the slide down slightly. Here is the problem. I have recently purchased another app press, as well as some spare rails, and the width of the rail on these new ones is thinner then the original. So the red tab makes no contact on the rail and it slides too freely. To address that I added the little nub that pushes on the tab forcing it to make more contact. That nub can now be customized to get the perfect amount of tension. If it is too much tension then you can file down 1/2mm or so at a time until you get just the right amount.

So the short answer is grab a small file and take off just a tiny bit of the nub, reassemble it and test again. rinse and repeat until you have what you need. If Lee had more consistency in the manufacturing of that rail none of this would be necessary.

Thanks. I filed a little and it works great now. I have both an APP and an ACP each one is just tad different. But both have your slider on it.
Any suggestions on the Loadmaster set up?
Thank you again

[TylerR]

Thanks. I filed a little and it works great now. I have both an APP and an ACP each one is just tad different. But both have your slider on it.
Any suggestions on the Loadmaster set up?
Thank you again

I could not make out enough in the video to give much of a suggestion on the loadmaster. Not sure if you can reshoot it from a better angle so we can see more of what is going on.

[kmitchl]

I use Cura exclusively. I was able to get a complete print by setting the layer height to .1 and the fill to 95%. When the print finished I could see through the section of the body where the recess is for the balls to retract. The root diameter of the threads is smaller than the diameter of the recess.

[TylerR]

I use Cura exclusively. I was able to get a complete print by setting the layer height to .1 and the fill to 95%. When the print finished I could see through the section of the body where the recess is for the balls to retract. The root diameter of the threads is smaller than the diameter of the recess.

This question has come up a bunch. It is a slicer or nozzle size issue, not design. Take a look at this post and the ones after it.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5262338&viewfull=1#post5262338

The wall thickness is just over .4mm in that section. The diameter of the threads is definitely not smaller then the recess. This is the design in 3d cad.

300248

[azlester]

I can't believe that it's been over 2 weeks and not a single new post....
I am trying to muddle thru getting all the parts and springs set up. I ended up printing another set up strictly for cases for my Loadmaster. A friend sent me a roll of green PLA that worked great!
In hind sight I might have been better off doing one thing at a time instead of printing everything all at once... it is kind of over whelming with the pile of parts and trying to remember what is what. I have started a bag of parts that I printed and it appears that I don't need them. LOL

[GWS]

Yeah it's been quiet here for a while....just as well, I've been swamped at home and work. You have a bag of parts you printed that you don't need? Glad you can laugh about it. Of course any practice you get on the printer isn't wasted.....you get better right? ;)

Green PLA for a red press? I've done some of that....mostly the other way around.....very Christmasy! What brand is the green? Being that my reloading room is full of green presses, I'm always interested in the green PLA's from different sources.

Right now I'm going backwards in time. I'm at this moment printing a large pistol brass plate for my first little collator....the AmmoMike special. I plan to use it to feed my Lee APP to deprime pistol cases and swage any military ones I collect. What color? A new Satin Red from Overture.....been wanting to see what that stuff looks like on a collator plate.

Picture is a few minutes ago:

https://i.postimg.cc/q7XqzPRK/IMG-4039.jpg

I wonder if I'm the only one who will have printed a pistol brass feeding plate for Ammo Mike's little collator designed to use TylerR's clutch?

Speaking of green PLA, I got a message from Zyltec this morning adertising their new Military green PLA..........I'm wondering how popular that can be. Can we print and send military weapons for the Ukraine? :) out of PLA plastic? Riiight.....

[azlester]

It is Creasee green PLA. More like an applegreen... very bright.300826

[GWS]

That's a powerful green all right. I've been looking for a deeper neutral green....haven't found what I want yet.

I printed the clutch for the new plate today......I decided I'd risk it and print with no supports under the handle hole. By danged if it turned out better than the ones I've printed with supports......didn't think the Creality was up to that.....I was happy to be wrong. See the speeded up video at the bottom of the post. :)

https://i.postimg.cc/43w3dNQ0/IMG-4045.jpg
That's a close up on the print bed, just after the print finished......not much to clean up.

On the right is the part that goes under the plate...the 45% angle is repeated on the bottom plate surface to give more frictional area. 6-32 flat head bolts go through it from the bottom, head is recessed.

On the left is the sleeve that goes on top of the plate, inside the hex columns goes 6-32 nuts. just screw the bolts in and they self tighten.

In front is the handle to make it easy to lift the plates. I use nylon nuts on the same two screws. You can tighten the screws from the bottom for more friction. The nylocks don't need to change after the first snug hand tightening. Pretty simple....all credit goes to TylerR.

Some will not like the tall clutch on a thin plate, but I'm not interested in printing a different height clutch for every plate. This size fits them all. Even the Ammo Mike little guys.

https://i.postimg.cc/zLsr9MZs/IMG-4040.jpg (https://postimg.cc/zLsr9MZs)

The new Satin Red from Overture?......little disappointed.....very similar to the Zyltec one. I want RED, not pinkish watered down red, nor orange-red either.

For now I'm going to stick with Zyltec's Lipstick Red.....not satin shiny but at least it's red.

Thought you guys might curious to see a (really fast) video of how my Creality SR10v2 handled the handle's circle closure. Way better than I thought it could without supports. :)


https://youtu.be/Boqb52g5drQ

[GWS]

Here's the result of the last few days of printing for AmmoMikes little collator and the APP......


https://youtu.be/z6QzSJpHHIg

Feeding .357 was the hardest.....but doable. .45acp, .40 s&w, 9mm works equally well by just changing the downtube parts. I demonstrate how easy that is at the end of the video. TylerR's APP quick change system is flat awesome. Thanks Tyler!

[TylerR]

Here's the result of the last few days of printing for AmmoMikes little collator and the APP......


https://youtu.be/z6QzSJpHHIg

Feeding .357 was the hardest.....but doable. .45acp, .40 s&w, 9mm works equally well by just changing the downtube parts. I demonstrate how easy that is at the end of the video. TylerR's APP quick change system is flat awesome. Thanks Tyler!

Looks great as always GWS. That is a really interesting collator plate you generated. what diameter are the holes on it? Seems to work extremely well.

[GWS]

Looks great as always GWS. That is a really interesting collator plate you generated. what diameter are the holes on it? Seems to work extremely well.

I said 14.....it was late.....16mm........What does your large pistol brass plate meaure?

The first try I piled the cases in the back with no thought to orientation. out of about 50, one dropped top down. I discovered that its best to spread them out a bit, so the crowd doesn't hold one upright the wrong way. Second try...I just poured them in a half moon at the bottom, and there was zero upside down cases. Then I repeated that for the video.....again no bad drops.

Oh, I should mention.....Ammo Mike's stuff did not include a slider with a rectangle cut out to go with your case droptube, so I modified again the one I modified of yours where I removed the adjustable width and just made it simple wide open. Obviously that one was too big for Mike's little collator, so I had to cobble your design to his plain slider. Harder for me than for you, for sure.

The .stl's files I can supply you, but probably only would benefit those with AmmoMike collators (not part of your system)......I just wanted to make mine useful......where as you gave your first one away....:) Obviously, anyone wanting to make a plate that does the same thing for your bigger collator, can do so as I did earlier in the year... I should send you the permanently wide open slider file, I made for that, if for some reason you want it, so you would never have to make one.....no biggie....but a one less pain....if you ever want.

[TylerR]

I said 14.....it was late.....16mm........What does your large pistol brass plate meaure?

The first try I piled the cases in the back with no thought to orientation. out of about 50, one dropped top down. I discovered that its best to spread them out a bit, so the crowd doesn't hold one upright the wrong way. Second try...I just poured them in a half moon at the bottom, and there was zero upside down cases. Then I repeated that for the video.....again no bad drops.

Oh, I should mention.....Ammo Mike's stuff did not include a slider with a rectangle cut out to go with your case droptube, so I modified again the one I modified of yours where I removed the adjustable width and just made it simple wide open. Obviously that one was too big for Mike's little collator, so I had to cobble your design to his plain slider. Harder for me than for you, for sure.

The .stl's files I can supply you, but probably only would benefit those with AmmoMike collators (not part of your system)......I just wanted to make mine useful......where as you gave your first one away....:) Obviously, anyone wanting to make a plate that does the same thing for your bigger collator, can do so as I did earlier in the year... I should send you the permanently wide open slider file, I made for that, if for some reason you want it, so you would never have to make one.....no biggie....but a one less pain....if you ever want.

you are correct as usual GWS (mostly). The large pistol brass plate has 15mm slots. I think it just looks weird to me on the very small AM collator. Love the way you have it handling the 357 brass.

[GWS]

you are correct as usual GWS (mostly). The large pistol brass plate has 15mm slots. I think it just looks weird to me on the very small AM collator. Love the way you have it handling the 357 brass.

Yeah when it was printing I thought I made a mistake they looked so big.....I even got the blue one down from my Pro 2000 and brought it into the printer room to compare. They were the same. A millimeter off (15 versus 16) is only 1/2 millimeter off on each side....chock that up to printer resolution and layer height. My plates are usually done at .2 mm high. That little one for the APP was done at .12. Probably won't do that on future ones.

I'm happy with it.....you know I have a lazy streak....the more I can get out of major work doing caliber changes the better I like it.

BTW, you noticed I just have some clear tube coming up out of your downtube, so that the long tube just slides over. It's important if anyone does that, to chamfer the top inside edge of said tube, or cases will hang. I just use the case chamfer tool on my Trim Mate to do that...takes a few seconds with it motorized.

I did print out all your little inserts and adapters, but couldn't find the right combination.....may be my printer resolution, or maybe I printed the wrong ones. (I did modify the 357 pistol downtube months ago to stop the twoforone performance I kept getting. We talked about that once but you still have the one where the notch is just sliced down the middle and can allow a sideways throw once in a great while)

Lee ought to pay you for the great favor you did them improving their little magic tool.;)

[TylerR]

Yeah when it was printing I thought I made a mistake they looked so big.....I even got the blue one down from my Pro 2000 and brought it into the printer room to compare. They were the same. A millimeter off (15 versus 16) is only 1/2 millimeter off on each side....chock that up to printer resolution and layer height. My plates are usually done at .2 mm high. That little one for the APP was done at .12. Probably won't do that on future ones.

I'm happy with it.....you know I have a lazy streak....the more I can get out of major work doing caliber changes the better I like it.

BTW, you noticed I just have some clear tube coming up out of your downtube, so that the long tube just slides over. It's important if anyone does that, to chamfer the top inside edge of said tube, or cases will hang. I just use the case chamfer tool on my Trim Mate to do that...takes a few seconds with it motorized.

I did print out all your little inserts and adapters, but couldn't find the right combination.....may be my printer resolution, or maybe I printed the wrong ones. (I did modify the 357 pistol downtube months ago to stop the twoforone performance I kept getting. We talked about that once but you still have the one where the notch is just sliced down the middle and can allow a sideways throw once in a great while)

Lee ought to pay you for the great favor you did them improving their little magic tool.;)

If you wouldn't mind sending me the .357 tube I will post it.

[azlester]

Well I just spent 2 days trying to get 124gr 9mm bullets to fall nose up reliably... was getting 4 or 5 that were going nose down out of 25 or so. It was driving me crazy...playing with the angle (not a good idea because if you have that angle too small the bullets slide out of the plate and start falling out all over the place! Last night I dreamed about it and BAM!!!! I forgot all about the adjustment screw on the back of the slider plate! A few turns of the screw and I am 100% nose up on both 124gr round nose cast/powdercoated and the 124 gr truncated cone cast/powder coated into the bullet feeding die on the Loadmaster!! WOOOHOOOOO LOL
Sometimes getting old you forget the easiest little things that make a huge difference!

[ranger391xt]

Here's the result of the last few days of printing for AmmoMikes little collator and the APP......


https://youtu.be/z6QzSJpHHIg

Feeding .357 was the hardest.....but doable. .45acp, .40 s&w, 9mm works equally well by just changing the downtube parts. I demonstrate how easy that is at the end of the video. TylerR's APP quick change system is flat awesome. Thanks Tyler!That thing is screaming. When I tried feeding 357 cases I had to run in "granny gear" or else cases would not have dropped completely and I would have jams. Any suggestions what I should do to be able to run faster?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

That thing is screaming. When I tried feeding 357 cases I had to run in "granny gear" or else cases would not have dropped completely and I would have jams. Any suggestions what I should do to be able to run faster?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Big holes mean they have more time to drop even at a decent speed. So, assuming you are collating with TylerR's regular sized collator, first, use the Large pistol case plate, then also assuming you're using the brass feeding slider/adjuster and the adapter screwed into it from the bottom.....using the parts below.... either adjust that adjuster part fully open to allow the biggest hole, or make a non-adjustable fully open one like I did. In the picture, starting with the little square part and going clockwise is the the hole size adjuster, the adjustable slide, the angled adapter that screws to the bottom of the slide.....or just use the simplified wide open non-adjustable slide, modified from the original+ the angled adapter.

https://i.postimg.cc/ryP7Bt2Z/Brass-feeding-outlet-parts.png

The reason I modded/added a permanently wide open one, was because I have a dedicated press to load pistol only, and they all do better fully open.......I use adjustable ones for rifle brass collating on another press. I'll send the source for the non-adjustable one to TylerR, in case any of you want it for simplicity for a dedicated pistol case feeding collator. And again, same need for the APP pistol case feed.

[azlester]

All I did was use the adjustable and left the opening wide open. Just for the very same reason on pistol brass...I even super glued it in place. I printed another one with the adjustable cover for the rifle brass

[GWS]

All I did was use the adjustable and left the opening wide open. Just for the very same reason on pistol brass...I even super glued it in place. I printed another one with the adjustable cover for the rifle brass

That's why I show both in the illustration. That works, just not as simple and clean. Even so, on both the collators I use for pistol cases, the Pro 2000, used for loading, or the APP used for depriming, I used 9 volt wall warts for power on both mine, to slow them down some and that gives the cheaper speed control I originally used on that little JGY370 powered A.M. unit a slower and smoother range. That collator was put together before Tyler discovered that relays were helpful.

We've tried several motors and speed controls on this project.....if what you are using is too fast, the simplest fix is a lower voltage power supply. Easier than buying more motors ans speed controls. (remember my last video of pistol brass feeding using TylerR's collator.....bigger motor at hyperspeed. :))

[azlester]

I used the JGY370 motor with 6 rpm.... plenty of torque and is more then fast enough for me. I was more concerned about being able to throw in a bunch of bullets and have it work then I was about about how fast it was. The friend that told me about Tyler's set up used a 10 rpm motor and said he rarely went faster then 6 rpm.

[ranger391xt]

Big holes mean they have more time to drop even at a decent speed. So, assuming you are collating with TylerR's regular sized collator, first, use the Large pistol case plate, then also assuming you're using the brass feeding slider/adjuster and the adapter screwed into it from the bottom.....using the parts below.... either adjust that adjuster part fully open to allow the biggest hole, or make a non-adjustable fully open one like I did. In the picture, starting with the little square part and going clockwise is the the hole size adjuster, the adjustable slide, the angled adapter that screws to the bottom of the slide.....or just use the simplified wide open non-adjustable slide, modified from the original+ the angled adapter.

https://i.postimg.cc/ryP7Bt2Z/Brass-feeding-outlet-parts.png

The reason I modded/added a permanently wide open one, was because I have a dedicated press to load pistol only, and they all do better fully open.......I use adjustable ones for rifle brass collating on another press. I'll send the source for the non-adjustable one to TylerR, in case any of you want it for simplicity for a dedicated pistol case feeding collator. And again, same need for the APP pistol case feed.Thanks for that.

I had made a custom 38/357 plate awhile back. Holes are just under 14 mm. I had also made the plate thicker (@ 14mm as well).

Before I saw your reply, I spent some time last night watching your video again. I got to thinking I might have the angle set too steep, so I reduced that and opened the slider all the way. I fed a couple hundred cases (both 38 Spl and 357 Mag) without a single jam while running at near full speed on the Greartisan 10 RPM motor.

Now to try and figure out how to feed bullets (nose down) without jamming. Steeper angle seems to be necessary there to keep the base down bullets on the ledge, but then sometimes they don't drop fast enough. Finding what I would call the sweet spot, where nose down drop without issue and base down ride on past, has been a challenge. SWC bullets seem to be the worst, possibly because of the difference in diameter where the nose of the bullet and the body of the bullet meet.


Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[azlester]

Don't forget the adjustment screw on the back of the slider plates that move the plate out a tad. Made a huge difference for me when I was having problems with my semi wadcutters. just d a bit at a time when you make changes either in or out. My round nose bullets were doing great a bit further out... the semi wadcutters i needed to move the plate in.
And yes. give the feeder all the angle you can get!

[GWS]

azlester and ranger: I admit I do like to test at speed, see older video below....if it works without binding then, then at a normal speed (I mean you can't load that fast), it should work even more reliably.....that's when I added the lower voltage power. And cheaper Speed Controls get a lower more reasonable & useful range.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5369971&viewfull=1#post5369971

[azlester]

Well I got both my Collators up and running on the LoadMaster finally. Took me a while to figure out what works and what doesn't as far as parts and adjustments. I found that having the sensors down on the press level worked better for me because the springs I got are a tad flimsy and the weight of a full spring at the angles I had would sag a bunch.
a video I did of them... https://youtu.be/OVgAO12H08U
I will say that Tyler's bullet dies are amazing!!!!!!!
I want to thank everyone for all the help you gave me in this journey! I couldn't have done it without your assistance.

[TylerR]

Well I got both my Collators up and running on the LoadMaster finally. Took me a while to figure out what works and what doesn't as far as parts and adjustments. I found that having the sensors down on the press level worked better for me because the springs I got are a tad flimsy and the weight of a full spring at the angles I had would sag a bunch.
a video I did of them... https://youtu.be/OVgAO12H08U
I will say that Tyler's bullet dies are amazing!!!!!!!
I want to thank everyone for all the help you gave me in this journey! I couldn't have done it without your assistance.

Looks very good. No shout out to GWS in the video? :)

[azlester]

The shout out to GWS and you is coming in the next video on it. I have received several requests to do a video on how I did it and where I got the files from. I hope it ok to refer them to Github and to this thread.

[TylerR]

The shout out to GWS and you is coming in the next video on it. I have received several requests to do a video on how I did it and where I got the files from. I hope it ok to refer them to Github and to this thread.
Very nice. Definitely fine by me. I love seeing people have success with this project.

[GWS]

The shout out to GWS and you is coming in the next video on it. I have received several requests to do a video on how I did it and where I got the files from. I hope it ok to refer them to Github and to this thread.

This is TylerR's project, I just help to have something to do.....best to keep busy at my age. No "shout out" needed or wanted. I prefer low key. I like to be helpful where and when I can, but the brains and parts proven to work here is TylerR's. I'm happy with them, both.:)

Actually, I had to ask him for help just this A.M. and discovered an APP part I didn't know existed, that would have made my last video a little simpler if I'd understood it earlier. Printing it as I post..... That would be "APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium.stl" that part comes in small medium and large.

I had thought that part was the very similar part made for the bullet feed dies also in 3 sizes. Not observant enough to catch that....so had tried to figure out how the parts for the dies could possibly work for the APP........they couldn't.....dumbbb.

The APP part fits over the top of all the APP inserts, where the one for the dies could not.

Here's the APP part:

https://i.postimg.cc/wMkjmWg2/Screenshot-2022-06-10-124926.png https://i.postimg.cc/66V3gQnZ/Screenshot-2022-06-10-125039.png

See the bottom has a BIG cutout to go over the inserts!

Below is the similar part used with bullet feed dies that looks nearly the same, but won't work here at all.

https://i.postimg.cc/3J95xfb0/IMG_3948.jpg

Maybe this post will help other dummies....;)

[GWS]

Okay, got "APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium.stl" printed.....how'd it work? Well it's a little tight.....sanding down the insert a just a little.....but if you don't want loosey parts, expect a certain amount of that. I printed at .12 layer height, but the older insert most likely was printed at .2, which would affect that pretty sure, but no big deal.

Now being that TylerR made 3 generic sizes I picked medium for .357, and that would be great for that size brass, except for .357 has these pesky rims that stick out. But I'd rather use that size than large....closer. But, I had to drill the center with a 7/16" drill to allow the case rims to drop cleanly through the part.

This is the part as it is cross sectioned: (as you can see it's not a very long ream-out, less than an 1/8" long in the center. You won't have to do that for 9mm with its flush rim, but also there's another plus for reaming to 7/16".....makes the medium size to work for .40S&W cases too and won't hurt 9mm....so reamed it would work fine for all three.)

https://i.postimg.cc/wx0bTXdQ/APP-Spring-APP-insert.png

Now I need to print a bottom twist end for my clear tube to drop and twist into this part.....since I do like my clear tube. But I did this exercise to show people who need or want to use spring tubes.

[r4ndy]

Cool retrofit to the Ammomike collator GWS! I was contemplating this with my original AM feeder to use for 223 case prep on the APP. Do you think the bowl is big enough to do 223 cases?

I have an AM collator with the Greartisan motor and was considering either trying something like this for 223 cases or asking Tyler if he would do a collator with the hole pattern for the greartisan to see if it had enough power to run with 223 cases as I have a couple of these motors laying around and hate to waste them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KNG6NT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[GWS]

Cool retrofit to the Ammomike collator GWS! I was contemplating this with my original AM feeder to use for 223 case prep on the APP. Do you think the bowl is big enough to do 223 cases?

I have an AM collator with the Greartisan motor and was considering either trying something like this for 223 cases or asking Tyler if he would do a collator with the hole pattern for the greartisan to see if it had enough power to run with 223 cases as I have a couple of these motors laying around and hate to waste them.

[URL]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KNG6NT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You got me thinking.....dangerous. ;) The .223 isn't that much bigger than the .357 Magnum....a "little" longer....but not much longer. So I got a wild hare and went to the loading room and just dumped some .223 into the A.M .357 setup....still sitting there ready to load.....I changed the APP insert to .223 which also required changing the APP shuttle to the next taller one.....and then just turned it on. Check it out....


https://youtu.be/7EBQFuuwaBQ

Observations: 1. Same setup worked fine with the right insert and shuttle.
2. Feed .223 perfect if a little slower than laying them down....but plenty fast enough.
3. First one dropped in the shuttle did the Lee APP shooting case trick. (those were LC cases with some case heads pretty roughly embossed....and some can hang and others can tilt and not feed into the deprimer perfectly.)
4. The famous TylerR clutch was needed at tube fill up because it needs a smaller downtube or a spacer, but no biggie, I just turned the switch off.

I was surprised how well it worked.

Picture below shows the two parts changed from .357. the .223 insert, and the tall shuttle.

https://i.postimg.cc/8PvdCztw/IMG-4050.jpg

r4ndy: I don't know if that motor will work, but if it works on the AmmoMike collator, just use that. Works fine IME.

I filled it back up and ran it two more times......no more case fly off. Still had one or two not go into the die perfect, but I betcha commercial brass with smooth case embossing won't do that. LC is pretty rough, and can tilt the worst of those cases and cause that.

[r4ndy]

Very interesting GWS - can you please share the parts you created to fit the AM for brass collating?

[Hube&Spoke]

@ TylerR and @GWS, From previous posts I noticed the problem I am currently having was already faced by you, I am just not sure how it was resolved. I built 3 different collators (standard, 300, Mongo) and all went very well in the build including the electrical part. Great job on getting this project accomplished. The problem I am having is on the standard size collator that I am using for bullet (nose up). The bullet that is giving me trouble is "Sierra Match King Bullets 308 168 Grain Hollow Point Boat Tail". I use the generator to select all parts. It gave me the "Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Large_#4" which did not work (the bullet rarely, if ever, got to the collator bullet space - it stayed side ways on the top of the collator no matter the collator incline angle). I then used the "Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Long_#11" which worked well. The current problem is the slide plate - I am using the "Bullet_Nose_Up_Slide_Plate_#11" but if the bullet is nose down then the bullet falls in the plate no matter the collator incline angle to I point that it is so incline that other problems start occurring.

What other slide plate should I use or is there another trick to solve this problem. Thank you for your help.

[TylerR]

@ TylerR and @GWS, From previous posts I noticed the problem I am currently having was already faced by you, I am just not sure how it was resolved. I built 3 different collators (standard, 300, Mongo) and all went very well in the build including the electrical part. Great job on getting this project accomplished. The problem I am having is on the standard size collator that I am using for bullet (nose up). The bullet that is giving me trouble is "Sierra Match King Bullets 308 168 Grain Hollow Point Boat Tail". I use the generator to select all parts. It gave me the "Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Large_#4" which did not work (the bullet rarely, if ever, got to the collator bullet space - it stayed side ways on the top of the collator no matter the collator incline angle). I then used the "Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Long_#11" which worked well. The current problem is the slide plate - I am using the "Bullet_Nose_Up_Slide_Plate_#11" but if the bullet is nose down then the bullet falls in the plate no matter the collator incline angle to I point that it is so incline that other problems start occurring.

What other slide plate should I use or is there another trick to solve this problem. Thank you for your help.

The #11 plates are definitely what you want for that bullet. I could do a lot of guessing, but if you could post a video of the problem I could most likely troubleshoot it very quickly.

[Hube&Spoke]

The #11 plates are definitely what you want for that bullet. I could do a lot of guessing, but if you could post a video of the problem I could most likely troubleshoot it very quickly.

Thanks @TylerR, I was able to resolve it. I had to play with three variables - rotation speed, incline collator angle, and how much to pull the slide plate out (so the bullet would not fall when nose is up due to the boat tail or when tip down it would be close to the edge). After many trials and errors I found the sweet spot for the three variables and it works fine now. Thanks again for the quick response.

[GWS]

Very interesting GWS - can you please share the parts you created to fit the AM for brass collating?301257
301258

Besides these files, print TylerR's Brass_Feed_Base_Down_Adapter.stl, only pivot it 30 degrees to set the base flat on the bed. This is the outlet that screws to the underside of the slide plate. And of course the clutch parts that you prefer.

[r4ndy]

Thank you GWS!

[TylerR]

Anyone want a free photo sensor setup for the collator? Just wire up the motor and add a power supply and you're done.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/748652796513091659/986814011251253368/unknown.png

[azlester]

Email and PM sent

[noacess]

Not sure if anyone has reported it already, but the "modified" link on page 16 under Step 8 (Part D) is broken in the manual.

[GWS]

Don't know, that's a TylerR question....he must be tired of this thread or still doing championship baseball with his kids! ;)

My current project is a little different..... anybody guess what? The green tool base is the hint.... Just having some fun..... Ordered a new quick change bench plate for it....

https://i.postimg.cc/kXrpYPrV/Summit-Base-Model.png