Making that Bullet Collator

[SoggyCashew]

Tyler, I was having trouble keeping the mount stationary without cranking down on the bolt and when I bumped it, it sometimes slid down. I remixed your mount to remedy this and now you only have to finger tighten the nut OR just use a wing nut. I remixed in Tinkercad but would love a better copy in DesignSpark Or 360 but my knowledge is limited to creating boxes like in tinkercad. Love the what your doing and thank you so much!


281839281840281841

[TylerR]

Tyler, I was having trouble keeping the mount stationary without cranking down on the bolt and when I bumped it, it sometimes slid down. I remixed your mount to remedy this and now you only have to finger tighten the nut OR just use a wing nut. I remixed in Tinkercad but would love a better copy in DesignSpark Or 360 but my knowledge is limited to creating boxes like in tinkercad. Love the what your doing and thank you so much!


Thanks man. I like your remix. I actually recently implemented my own solution to the issue you mentioned. Its just a thumb screw to adjust the angle.
Personally I like just keeping it friction fit, because I can adjust the angle so quickly.

[TylerR]

New version has been posted. v1.4.6

- New manual v3.0 to account for recent changes.
- New parts generator.
- All feed die threads have been reduced just slightly.
- #11 plate have been moved inwards to reduce amount of ridge to work better on flat nose boolits.
- Some changes here and there to the collator plates.
- Inclusion of all Mongo collator parts.

[Anuccite]

New version has been posted. v1.4.6

- New manual v3.0 to account for recent changes.
- New parts generator.
- All feed die threads have been reduced just slightly.
- #11 plate have been moved inwards to reduce amount of ridge to work better on flat nose boolits.
- Some changes here and there to the collator plates.
- Inclusion of all Mongo collator parts.

Printing new #11 now! keep you posted

[TylerR]

Printing new #11 now! keep you posted

Excellent. I didn't move it a ton, but it should make a difference. Also make sure there is no crows foot on the bottom back of the plate so it slides in all the way.

[LAreloader]

282011I need some help connecting my bullet/case collator plates to my ETZGMP38 motor shaft. Does anyone have an STL or advice on how to do that? I have printed out the feeder and plates from bf_v1 and there isn't much room in the hole on the collator plates to put a connector. What is the solution?

Thanks in advance!

LAreloader

[TylerR]

I need some help connecting my bullet/case collator plates to my ETZGMP38 motor shaft. Does anyone have an STL or advice on how to do that? I have printed out the feeder and plates from bf_v1 and there isn't much room in the hole on the collator plates to put a connector. What is the solution?

Thanks in advance!

LAreloader

Those plates are for a pinned motor shaft, and are pre-clutch. You can either pin your motor shaft. Or reprint the plates with the new clutch system and go with the hex adapter.

Edited to add: You probably want to download the latest files. A lot has changed since v1.

[r4ndy]

282011I need some help connecting my bullet/case collator plates to my ETZGMP38 motor shaft. Does anyone have an STL or advice on how to do that? I have printed out the feeder and plates from bf_v1 and there isn't much room in the hole on the collator plates to put a connector. What is the solution?

Thanks in advance!

LAreloader

I couldn’t get a hole drilled through my motor for the original AmmoMike feeder, so I drilled out the holes on my plates to fit a round brass coupler and put a roll pin in the top of the coupler. Not my idea, it is much earlier on in the thread. If you need the coupler info PM me and I will check my purchases. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210428/8102f5351503a5ff52244f3b8d34a675.jpg

[TylerR]

I couldn’t get a hole drilled through my motor for the original AmmoMike feeder, so I drilled out the holes on my plates to fit a round brass coupler and put a roll pin in the top of the coupler. Not my idea, it is much earlier on in the thread. If you need the coupler info PM me and I will check my purchases.

The motor shaft is in theory heat treated. Assuming its a decent quality motor. I have had issues drilling the hole myself. I got around it by heating it up and letting it cool slowly to remove some of the metal hardness. Of course in order to do that, I took the motor apart and removed the shaft so the heat didn't transfer to the motor parts. But if you apply just the right amount of heat to make it a little softer disassembly is probably not necessary.

[noacess]

I finally got my Prusa printer fixed (motherboard died) and now I'm off to printing new collator plates with clutches. Thanks TylerR as always for the hard work and also a huge shoutout to o416 for making such an awesome manual with all the latest changes!

[o416]

I finally got my Prusa printer fixed (motherboard died) and now I'm off to printing new collator plates with clutches. Thanks TylerR as always for the hard work and also a huge shoutout to o416 for making such an awesome manual with all the latest changes!

My pleasure brother!

[TylerR]

I finally got my Prusa printer fixed (motherboard died) and now I'm off to printing new collator plates with clutches. Thanks TylerR as always for the hard work and also a huge shoutout to o416 for making such an awesome manual with all the latest changes!

Good to hear you are back up and running. Be sure to download the latest, as I made a few minor tweaks just tonight.

[CS223]

I started the project by printing the bullet drop die as a debug for the printer & slicer settings. They came out fine with the exception of the ball bearing pockets which are just a tiny bit misshapen, what is the best way to clean them up? I have a BNEM that size and I’ve also thought about using a ball and soldering iron to heat it & ‘iron’ out the hole.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I started the project by printing the bullet drop die as a debug for the printer & slicer settings. They came out fine with the exception of the ball bearing pockets which are just a tiny bit misshapen, what is the best way to clean them up? I have a BNEM that size and I’ve also thought about using a ball and soldering iron to heat it & ‘iron’ out the hole.


Do the bearings not fit in the hole then? They are pretty exact tolerances on those holes so the bearing fits in, but does not slide all the way through.

[CS223]

Do the bearings not fit in the hole then? They are pretty exact tolerances on those holes so the bearing fits in, but does not slide all the way through.

I understand how it works & that the holes are hemispherical, the printed holes have a little bit of error where the filament bridges the top of the hemisphere even at a .12 layer hgt spec’d in the instructions. It’s probably my fault for checking fit with 5/32 balls that I had on hand instead the of 3.5mm specified.

[CS223]

A couple of pics might help.282382282384

[TylerR]

A couple of pics might help.282382282384

Those look a little rough. What nozzle size are you using.

[CS223]

Those look a little rough. What nozzle size are you using.

0.4mm E3D nozzle, 0.12 layer height, 0.44 extrusion width, 15% infill, 3 perimeters maybe I should slow the print speed down and give it more time to cool. Overall it looks pretty good and the parts fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210503/b800353d4ad3ac2e531a221e3af0df27.jpg

[McCrower]

Which bullet nose down slide plate for this .44 Lee bullet?282478

[TylerR]

Which bullet nose down slide plate for this .44 Lee bullet?282478

Can't say for sure, but #7 might me a good place to start.

[ulav8r]

Be sure to download the latest, as I made a few minor tweaks just tonight.


I have been following this thread since the first post, even though I don't have a 3D printer. It still seems like it might be risky to spend much time and money to start a build if I can't expect to have a fully usable product before the design is finalized. :sad:













:kidding:

[McCrower]

Can't say for sure, but #7 might me a good place to start.

Thank you sir. Worked perfectly.

https://youtu.be/KXtoczsrqzk

[TylerR]

Thank you sir. Worked perfectly.

Very nice. Good when a plan comes together.

[TylerR]

I have been following this thread since the first post, even though I don't have a 3D printer. It still seems like it might be risky to spend much time and money to start a build if I can't expect to have a fully usable product before the design is finalized. :sad:
:kidding:

I see the chain yanking emoji, so I assume you are joking around. :)

I will say this though. As far as I am concerned this project is about at a close, except for very minor tweaks. Or if someone asks me for a new feed die or something.

[greekman]

in the time i have been here i have 5 working models (yea i know overkill) but if you do a complete build just do it from the latest version and only work from that version and you will have success

no worries :popcorn::drinks:

[TylerR]

in the time i have been here i have 5 working models (yea i know overkill) but if you do a complete build just do it from the latest version and only work from that version and you will have success

no worries :popcorn::drinks:

Oh man I can relate to this. I also have a complete unit sitting here with no motor because I stole it to put it on my Mongo feeder. So should I buy another motor? do I really need 4 feeders? Probably not. lol

[Portland230]

Good day!! First of all thank you for putting this all together!!! This is amazing work!!! I'm taking a stab at printing a bullet feeder for my hornady press and I'm running the parts generator. Does it take a while to do? I selected all the parts I want and did a new folder location and the bar at the bottom just keeps going and I'm waiting for the beep like the directions say but haven't heard anything yet and its still going. Does it take a while? Thank you!!!



EDIT: Never Mind I figured it out!!!

[SoggyCashew]

TylerR, I have brass and bullet collators for my press and I'm using the recommended motors ETZGMP38 on both. My question is I'm wanting to build another collator for my new LEE ACP Press but didn't want to drop the cash for another ETZGMP38 motor. Out of the 4 motors what is your recommended 2nd, 3rd then 4th motors?

Also the ETZGMP38 (https://www.zoro.com/dayton-dc-gearmotor-nameplate-rpm-12-130a-52je51/i/G6617829/) is cheaper at ZORO with free shipping....

[TylerR]

TylerR, I have brass and bullet collators for my press and I'm using the recommended motors ETZGMP38 on both. My question is I'm wanting to build another collator for my new LEE ACP Press but didn't want to drop the cash for another ETZGMP38 motor. Out of the 4 motors what is your recommended 2nd, 3rd then 4th motors?

Also the ETZGMP38 (https://www.zoro.com/dayton-dc-gearmotor-nameplate-rpm-12-130a-52je51/i/G6617829/) is cheaper at ZORO with free shipping....

I would give the 634JS motor a try. It is linked in the manual.

[gubrin]

TylerR, I have brass and bullet collators for my press and I'm using the recommended motors ETZGMP38 on both. My question is I'm wanting to build another collator for my new LEE ACP Press but didn't want to drop the cash for another ETZGMP38 motor. Out of the 4 motors what is your recommended 2nd, 3rd then 4th motors?

Also the ETZGMP38 (https://www.zoro.com/dayton-dc-gearmotor-nameplate-rpm-12-130a-52je51/i/G6617829/) is cheaper at ZORO with free shipping....

I'm using cheap JGY371 (from AliExpress) in both bullet and case feeder with no issues so far.

[Portland230]

So getting ready to order the electronics for my feeder and wanted another set of eyes on my shopping list. Here are the links to what I'm ordering. Your opinion is welcome. I am how ever sticking with the JGY motor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GGM9XC9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A19TVI3M6WFVG7&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XQ22F47/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AMFXXBA3KGILA&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B888WVC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GD4ZQRS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2DYIB4IPW7T3M&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JHVJYL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1SVSKKUI8ZCJ7&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XDRSK4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A2VILSBUHD1UD8&psc=1

If you think I should go with something else a link would be appreciated.

[RedlegEd]

Hi Portland,
I would suggest using a Normally Closed proximity switch because you want the circuit closed until the switch is made, which opens the circuit and thereby stops the motor. The one you show is Normally Open.
Ed

[Portland230]

oh yea good call sir thank you!!

[Portland230]

Hi Portland,
I would suggest using a Normally Closed proximity switch because you want the circuit closed until the switch is made, which opens the circuit and thereby stops the motor. The one you show is Normally Open.
Ed

Do you have a link to one?

[RedlegEd]

Do you have a link to one?
Try this. It's in the manual (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xczanojq6ly3jqa/AAA5yU7iMbX_N46aC9SVfdjza?dl=0), which you really should read thoroughly front to back to get a full understanding of the project, settings, and parts.
Ed

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

So getting ready to order the electronics for my feeder and wanted another set of eyes on my shopping list. Here are the links to what I'm ordering. Your opinion is welcome. I am how ever sticking with the JGY motor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GGM9XC9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A19TVI3M6WFVG7&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XQ22F47/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AMFXXBA3KGILA&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B888WVC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GD4ZQRS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2DYIB4IPW7T3M&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JHVJYL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1SVSKKUI8ZCJ7&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XDRSK4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A2VILSBUHD1UD8&psc=1

If you think I should go with something else a link would be appreciated.

Only thing I would add is if you want a switch that fits the standard electronics box these are the ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R5DMLXL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

Try this. It's in the manual (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xczanojq6ly3jqa/AAA5yU7iMbX_N46aC9SVfdjza?dl=0), which you really should read thoroughly front to back to get a full understanding of the project, settings, and parts.
Ed

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I see this is out of stock on amazon. If you search PRD18-14DN2 there are other places to get it from. Here are a couple.

https://www.galco.com/buy/Autonics/PRD18-14DN2?source=AdWords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhr_-_YvZ8AIVHPLjBx39bgrwEAAYASAAEgI_z_D_BwE
https://www.wolfautomation.com/sensor-long-distance-prox-o18mm-14mm-range-24661/

[Portland230]

I see this is out of stock on amazon. If you search PRD18-14DN2 there are other places to get it from. Here are a couple.

https://www.galco.com/buy/Autonics/PRD18-14DN2?source=AdWords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhr_-_YvZ8AIVHPLjBx39bgrwEAAYASAAEgI_z_D_BwE
https://www.wolfautomation.com/sensor-long-distance-prox-o18mm-14mm-range-24661/

Tyler I greatly appreciate it!!!! Thank you!!!

[r4ndy]

Hi - Can someone please provide input on support settings and orientation of the APP Base Slide? Is it printed standing up like in the manual with support on the bottom or some other way? Been reading the manual and going through multiple searches for the last 45 mins and stumped :(

[ranger391xt]

I printed it standing up. had to turn on supports in the slicer. I got a better print on my AnyCubic i3 Mega S using PrusaSlicer vs Cura.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[r4ndy]

I printed it standing up. had to turn on supports in the slicer. I got a better print on my AnyCubic i3 Mega S using PrusaSlicer vs Cura.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Thanks!

[bigeric]

So I had an amazon gift card as a "bonus" from work. Decided to go for another printer. E5+. Here it is next to its smaller cousin.

280966

283468

22 hours into printing the large base on my E5+.

[TylerR]

283468

22 hours into printing the large base on my E5+.

Nice! You are about to enter the elite Mongo collator club. We are a select few.

[bigeric]

This thread was a great excuse to get a 3d printer. Doing both bullet and case collators for me and my brother saves big money over buying them, and essentially makes the printer free! (At least that's my rationalization, haha.)

All of you have done great work on this project!!!

[TylerR]

This thread was a great excuse to get a 3d printer. Doing both bullet and case collators for me and my brother saves big money over buying them, and essentially makes the printer free! (At least that's my rationalization, haha.)

All of you have done great work on this project!!!

Music to my ears. That's what I call a success story. :)

[GWS]

Nice! You are about to enter the elite Mongo collator club. We are a select few.

You are indeed. You have to have more room and more patience than me. My little brother just moved into a new house I designed for him......it has a dedicated reloading room.....yes I'm a little ...envious, but he's makimg more money than me. ;) (I don't envy his job....ER MD) Anyway we just set up his Dillon 650 in there.....with its Gigant Dillon case feeder. I have to say he is envious of me too.....having a 3d printer and having made 4 collators for less money than he spent on his one. I know he would like to have a bullet feeder. He's approaching the age where juggling the steps of reloading and remembering to do them every time, is not as easy as it used to be. But is balking at the price of a "Mr." commercial version. I have offered my printer and time.....think he's about to cave.....

BTW, I didn't misspell Gigant.....that's German for Giant. Here's Hitler's Gigant transport of WW2 fame.

https://i.postimg.cc/X7XrM5P6/Gigant.jpg

That's what I would have called the biggest collator base.....but it ain't mine. ;)

BTW.....that success story will be if that long print finishes without a power outage. :)

[TylerR]

You are indeed. You have to have more room and more patience than me. My little brother just moved into a new house I designed for him......it has a dedicated reloading room.....yes I'm a little ...envious, but he's makes more money than me. ;) (I don't envy his job....ER MD) Anyway we just set up his Dillon 650 in there.....with its Gigant Dillon case feeder. I have to say he is envious of me too.....having a 3d printer and having made 4 collators for less money than he spent on his one. I know he would like to have a bullet feeder. He's approaching the age where juggling the steps of reloading and remembering to do them every time, is not as easy as it used to be. But is balking at the price of a "Mr." commercial version. I have offered my printer and time.....think he's about to cave.....

BTW, I didn't misspell Gigant.....that's German for Giant. Here's Hitler's Gigant transport of WW2 fame.

That's what I would have called the biggest collator base.....but it ain't mine. ;)

I should have taken votes on the name :)

Not really sure where Mongo came from. It just popped in to my head. But then I get to use funny gif's like this all the time......

https://media.giphy.com/media/l0K4pbsfZgDgxmTNC/source.gif

https://media1.tenor.com/images/23cff8d70307cc99df693116310a2223/tenor.gif?itemid=12812888

[Walnut]

Long time lurker, first I would like to thank everyone for the hard work on making this collator a reality.

I have an Entirely Crimson feeder that I have been using for several years that worked great for my needs on my Dillon's. I just got serious about casting, after hand feeding bullets into my Lee APP, I quickly figured out that I needed something better and faster. I really needed a nose down bullet feeder. So I went looking for AM bullet collator and fell into this thread, and decided to print off the bullet feeder designed by Tyler and Gang. All I can say is "Bravo!" I have read all 228 pages of this thread and tried to glean as much wisdom and knowledge as possible. The thought and effort that has gone into this is remarkable, I can't thank everyone enough, y'all's dedication in the R/D, the plate generator software and the manual is commendable. Everyone's hard work has resulted in a professional product that a benefit to the shooters community. I have sized 1000's of 9mm/38 bullets so far with the collator and it has been an honor to use something so well designed for the cost of the print time and a spool of filament. Y'all's product is far more sophisticated that my current bullet feeder and has taught me a great deal on how to really dial in and calibrate my Ender 3 and how to wire up proximity sensors, relays and the rest of the electrical system.

Thank you again,

Walnut from Texas

[TylerR]

Long time lurker, first I would like to thank everyone for the hard work on making this collator a reality.

I have an Entirely Crimson feeder that I have been using for several years that worked great for my needs on my Dillon's. I just got serious about casting, after hand feeding bullets into my Lee APP, I quickly figured out that I needed something better and faster. I really needed a nose down bullet feeder. So I went looking for AM bullet collator and fell into this thread, and decided to print off the bullet feeder designed by Tyler and Gang. All I can say is "Bravo!" I have read all 228 pages of this thread and tried to glean as much wisdom and knowledge as possible. The thought and effort that has gone into this is remarkable, I can't thank everyone enough, y'all's dedication in the R/D, the plate generator software and the manual is commendable. Everyone's hard work has resulted in a professional product that a benefit to the shooters community. I have sized 1000's of 9mm/38 bullets so far with the collator and it has been an honor to use something so well designed for the cost of the print time and a spool of filament. Y'all's product is far more sophisticated that my current bullet feeder and has taught me a great deal on how to really dial in and calibrate my Ender 3 and how to wire up proximity sensors, relays and the rest of the electrical system.

Thank you again,

Walnut from Texas

Another success story! Thank you for that positive feedback. It really makes all the work worth it. What you just described was my goal in sharing this with the community. And as we all know this was a collaborative effort. A lot of smart minds made this project happen.

Cheers Walnut from Texas. :drinks:

[TylerR]

BTW.....that success story will be if that long print finishes without a power outage. :)

This is why my printer is on a battery backup with a generator that eventually kicks in. I have already been bitten by the power outage long print bug. Never again.

[Phlier]

So glad to see this project got picked up since the last time I was here. You guys are amazing.

I really hate to just mooch off of you guys, so I'm going to try and contribute *something*... I'm in the middle of making a Cliff Notes version of this thread, starting from where TylerR picked up the project at around page 44 or so. I'm up to page 105, so still have 123 pages left.

The Cliff Notes version will try and pick out what I think a lot of guys are going to want to know about from this thread. It's not going to be all inclusive for everyone, as everyone will have a different idea on what should and should not be included. I'm going to post it in a new thread so that guys can add their own posts with what they think are important points from this megathread, too. That way if I didn't cover it in my Cliff Notes, guys can add their own. Hopefully, it'll hit the important highlights of this thread without a guy having to read all 228 pages.

I know it's not much of a contribution, but at this point it's all I can do. It's going to take me another couple of days to get through the remaining 125 pages, though.

Hey GWS! Waaaaay back around page 60 (or there abouts.. that's just a guess), you showed a video of an amazing boolit nose down plate (etc) that you designed. I'm sorry if this question got covered later in the thread; as I said I'm only up to 105 as of now. But is there any chance that you released the stl's for that nose down system?

Wow, there's an amazing group of incredibly talented and intelligent guys on this forum. Wish to heck I was one of them.

[TylerR]

So glad to see this project got picked up since the last time I was here. You guys are amazing.

I really hate to just mooch off of you guys, so I'm going to try and contribute *something*... I'm in the middle of making a Cliff Notes version of this thread, starting from where TylerR picked up the project at around page 44 or so. I'm up to page 105, so still have 123 pages left.

The Cliff Notes version will try and pick out what I think a lot of guys are going to want to know about from this thread. It's not going to be all inclusive for everyone, as everyone will have a different idea on what should and should not be included. I'm going to post it in a new thread so that guys can add their own posts with what they think are important points from this megathread, too. That way if I didn't cover it in my Cliff Notes, guys can add their own. Hopefully, it'll hit the important highlights of this thread without a guy having to read all 228 pages.

I know it's not much of a contribution, but at this point it's all I can do. It's going to take me another couple of days to get through the remaining 125 pages, though.

Hey GWS! Waaaaay back around page 60 (or there abouts.. that's just a guess), you showed a video of an amazing boolit nose down plate (etc) that you designed. I'm sorry if this question got covered later in the thread; as I said I'm only up to 105 as of now. But is there any chance that you released the stl's for that nose down system?

Wow, there's an amazing group of incredibly talented and intelligent guys on this forum. Wish to heck I was one of them.

This is awesome to hear! A vert worthy project for sure. Good luck with it. Can' wait to see the result!

[GWS]

Hey GWS! Waaaaay back around page 60 (or there abouts.. that's just a guess), you showed a video of an amazing boolit nose down plate (etc) that you designed. I'm sorry if this question got covered later in the thread; as I said I'm only up to 105 as of now. But is there any chance that you released the stl's for that nose down system?

That nose down plate (and baffle) was an attempt to feed them nose down without the ramp, some worry has a patent issue. So I just wanted to see if it could be done........and it worked pretty darned good. However I did not do anything with other calibers beyond the .45 I started with. There was not a lot of interest, and besides I don't as yet need nose down, since I only load jacketed bullets.

However that may change if the current market conditions of limited or no supply continues. I did not post the .stl's because nobody asked. Nor did I up-size the plates to the bigger collators that TylerR designed. But here's the latest .stl's for Ammo Mike's original base.

There are two .stls. One is the plate and one is the baffle that makes a bullet flipping ramp unnecessary. The baffle has to be screwed into your base walls just barely above bullet diameter.....for .45 caliber that's 13mm above the plate surface (not counting the 4 verticals). The verticals are 10mm, so place your plate (hex center design) then add temporary 3mm thick shims to space the baffle height, so you then drill the base walls to bolt to secure the baffle.


https://youtu.be/hYQbHhBwRGI

I removed the slots on top of the plate and replaced them with 4 tall short verticals around the outside edge to reduce bullet trips.

If there had been more interest, we might have figured out a more elegant way to set the baffle to different heights for other caliber plates.;)

BTW the bullet drop in front is just the flat no-holer, that Ammo Mike furnished as an option.

[Phlier]

This is awesome to hear! A vert worthy project for sure. Good luck with it. Can' wait to see the result!
It sure won't be anything like what you guys have contributed to the project, but unfortunately it's about all I'm qualified to contribute.


That nose down plate (and baffle) was an attempt to feed them nose down without the ramp, some worry has a patent issue. So I just wanted to see if it could be done........and it worked pretty darned good. However I did not do anything with other calibers beyond the .45 I started with. There was not a lot of interest, and besides I don't as yet need nose down, since I only load jacketed bullets.

However that may change if the current market conditions of limited or no supply continues. I did not post the .stl's because nobody asked. Nor did I up-size the plates to the bigger collators that TylerR designed. But here's the latest .stl's for Ammo Mike's original base.

There are two .stls. One is the plate and one is the baffle that makes a bullet flipping ramp unnecessary. The baffle has to be screwed into your base walls just barely above bullet diameter.....for .45 caliber that's 13mm above the plate surface (not counting the 4 verticals). The verticals are 10mm, so place your plate (hex center design) then add temporary 3mm thick shims to space the baffle height, so you then drill the base walls to bolt to secure the baffle.


https://youtu.be/hYQbHhBwRGI

I removed the slots on top of the plate and replaced them with 4 tall short verticals around the outside edge to reduce bullet trips.

If there had been more interest, we might have figured out a more elegant way to set the baffle to different heights for other caliber plates.;)

BTW the bullet drop in front is just the flat no-holer, that Ammo Mike furnished as an option.

I've watched that video about twenty times now. I think it is a very well done piece of engineering! Unfortunately, I don't shoot .45 ACP... yet, but for those who do... wow, what a great time saver for boolit sizing! When I saw your first video about it, I was a-mazed. Still am, really. I've really gotten a kick out of how you're such a humble, aww-shucks kind of guy here on the forums, but you're capable of kicking up the brain cells and engineering a very cool system. 70+ years old? Pfffft. You're engineering like the most talented of the young bucks! I'm not just blowing sunshine here, GWS, you really done good on that system.

I have an old Ammo Mike version collator, and I've never had much luck with adjusting the nose-down boolit feeder plate to be reliable. That's why I was wondering about your system, but I'd need it for 9mm. I think I'll print it up and have my 19 year old son see if he can have a go of using your design to make one for 9mm. That is, if that's OK with you? It would be very cool to have a template similar to the one that produces custom collator plates according to the user's inputs, only for nose-first boolit dropping based on your system. I saw a YouTube video a while back where a guy showed a nose-first collator that is very similar to your system. The difference being that he takes the stuff you put *above* the collator plate, and puts it *under* the collator plate. The plate underneath the main collator plate grabs the nose of upside down boolits and guides them to a hole. Any boolits that aren't nose down are kept from dropping down the hole by a little plate that sits over the hole... similar to yours, but it only sits right at the hole itself; it doesn't go all the way around the collator. I think his system is still reliant on using the ramp, though, to turn them nose down. I might be wrong on that, it's been a while since I watched the video. If you're interested, I'll see if I can find that video again and post a link to it.

You engineering types are so damn smart, I'm just in awe. I just wish I could contribute something actually useful to the project... I hate just mooching off of the generosity and intelligence of others.

[GWS]

You engineering types are so damn smart, I'm just in awe. I just wish I could contribute something actually useful to the project... I hate just mooching off of the generosity and intelligence of others.

You need to set your sights a little higher, I'm just a building designer who dabbles in this 3D printing stuff because the commercial bullet feeders are priced 3 times what they are worth to me. Smart?....more like cheap and desperate. ;).........and fading to retirement on my own terms. I wouldn't worry about mooching......change that attitude to learning....we are all doing that! That's why AmmoMike and TylerR started this craziness....that and it's fun to see if we can....

You want to contribute? Just print stuff here and input your experiences.....just like the rest of us.....and I'll mooch off your appreciated abbreviated cliffnotes! I just designed a 9mm version today.....It will evolve so keep watching the thread. Files will be downloadable....

[Phlier]

Thanks for that, GWS!

I'll see if I can borrow the printer long enough from my son to print it out! He keeps the darn thing printing non-stop 24/7. I think his current print is due to finish printing in two more days. I'm hoping he'll let me print your files after his finishes up.

[GWS]

The plate should print in 5 1/2 hours.....the baffle 6 1/2 hours. Hope the plate works for you.....you do have a hex spindle?

This is what the upgraded baffle looks like.....tall in the back to allow more bullets....

https://i.postimg.cc/tJS5J4CD/IMG-3600.jpg

Someday, I'll make a clutched version........I use my AmmoMike little base for the Lee APP. I use Tyler's bigger (not biggest ;)) base for rifle cases and bullets on the Pro Chucker 7.

Dang-it, I may have to start buying into the casting hobby, now......Obama/Bin Biden has me nervous. Will component supply and decent prices come back at all? We all may be doing Boolits soon.....if even that survives...... (the boolits in the picture were purchased years ago not made by me....wish they were)

[Steveo2882]

I’m confused about how to open the parts generator. I click the jar file and it asks what to open it with. I tried opening it with openscad but nothing opens up. I have installed JRE. Any help would be appreciated.

[Phlier]

The plate should print in 5 1/2 hours.....the baffle 6 1/2 hours. Hope the plate works for you.....you do have a hex spindle?

This is what the upgraded baffle looks like.....tall in the back to allow more bullets....

https://i.postimg.cc/tJS5J4CD/IMG-3600.jpg

Someday, I'll make a clutched version........I use my AmmoMike little base for the Lee APP. I use Tyler's bigger (not biggest ;)) base for rifle cases and bullets on the Pro Chucker 7.

Dang-it, I may have to start buying into the casting hobby, now......Obama/Bin Biden has me nervous. Will component supply and decent prices come back at all? We all may be doing Boolits soon.....if even that survives...... (the boolits in the picture were purchased years ago not made by me....wish they were)

Casting is such a fun hobby, GWS! My Dad got me started casting boolits in the summer of 1977 when I was 10 years old. Been casting ever since. Until around six years ago, I only cast for .38 Special, .357 Mag and .44 Mag, but now I'm casting for 9mm (and the popular 9mm variants... .380 Auto and 9mm Makarov) since I have three guys depending on me for copious amounts of 9mm ammo. I have a pile of 5,000 9mm boolits I need to size today. Man, I wish I was setup to do .45 ACP... I'd cast you a big heap of boolits for your contributions here. Need any 9mm, 380 Auto, 9mm Makarov, .38 Special/.357 Mag or .44 Mag boolits? Say the word, and you'll get however many you need.

The shortage has hit casters, too. Nearly all molds are sold out everywhere.

I bought an Ammo Mike collator from a forum member here a couple years back, so it doesn't have a hex drive. I also ordered another AM style collator from a guy last Friday. Won't be getting that one for a few more days. I'll also be printing up at least two TylerR, et al. collators, too. And yes, all of them will be put to work... hate having to constantly move the one collator I have from press to press, as well as switching calibers, or switching from boolit to case collating. So each will have a permanent home with one specific duty.

I'm hoping to start printing my first one this week, if my son will let me have some time on his printer. I can't wait to try out your nose down 9mm plate! Thank you so much for that!


I’m confused about how to open the parts generator. I click the jar file and it asks what to open it with. I tried opening it with openscad but nothing opens up. I have installed JRE. Any help would be appreciated.

A JAR file is similar to a ZIP file. It stands for Java ARchive, and is a way to bundle a bunch of java files into one archive. So you'll need to "unzip" the JAR file like you do a Zip file in order to access the files in it. You'll need a program like "7-Zip" or the like to unpack the JAR.

After you unpack the JAR, read the Manual for instructions on using the Parts Generator.

Hmmm... Think this subject might make it into my Cliff Notes.

[GWS]

Pflier, will add files for slot centers.

[Phlier]

Thank you, GWS!!

[GWS]

Thank you, GWS!!

"Thanks" I'm afraid is premature. The print file says test.....and most tests, unless you are flat lucky, require more tests before even considering prime time. This is no exception. I went ahead and printed out the 9mm file.....just finished an hour ago....set it up on the small collator and guess what? No joy. I think the holes are too wide and maybe too long. Would have worked I think if the walls of the base were tighter to the plate, so I've got to make the holes a little narrower and maybe a little shorter. So don't waste any PLA quite yet. ;) It's pretty.....does that count? :) Back to the drawing board. Hope to print another try tomorrow.....think I'm going to have some time to tweak the shape tonight on Autocad.

BTW the closest thing I have to 9mm boolits is some Berry's plated...not boolits but..... I should ask around and see if any of my friends have some to test with.

[greekman]

hey bud have been using the case #10 for 9mm but have a friend wants me to load some 45apc anychance you have a model for the bigger case?

thanks in advance

[greekman]

I do have one for the Light and Switch.... I started out with the light and went to a switch. Attached is the .stl #10 tubes

FYI that on the shoot is a bullet counter that actually counts each "Finished" cartridge as it goes through the counter and not the motion of the handle. I made a short video of it working...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z7sgvrZ78o

hey bud have been using the case #10 for 9mm but have a friend wants me to load some 45apc anychance you have a model for the bigger case?

thanks in advance

[Phlier]

"Thanks" I'm afraid is premature. The print file says test.....and most tests, unless you are flat lucky, require more tests before even considering prime time. This is no exception. I went ahead and printed out the 9mm file.....just finished an hour ago....set it up on the small collator and guess what? No joy. I think the holes are too wide and maybe too long. Would have worked I think if the walls of the base were tighter to the plate, so I've got to make the holes a little narrower and maybe a little shorter. So don't waste any PLA quite yet. ;) It's pretty.....does that count? :) Back to the drawing board. Hope to print another try tomorrow.....think I'm going to have some time to tweak the shape tonight on Autocad.

BTW the closest thing I have to 9mm boolits is some Berry's plated...not boolits but..... I should ask around and see if any of my friends have some to test with.
I'd be more than happy to send ya as many 9mm's as you'd like! Just holler!

[greekman]

just tried to download the latest manual from Tyler's post is there something up just takes me to no access page?

[TylerR]

just tried to download the latest manual from Tyler's post is there something up just takes me to no access page?

Files are down right now because people can't seem to control their comments in open forums.

[GWS]

Phlier, 3rd try with the 9 mm design was the charm. Holes were too long. Berry's plated works.....most likely the cast boolits will too. The only negative is the last bullet seems to have a hard time going in by itself (bullet's heavy base too often wants to go first....but that's minor....

I added a clear styrene piece at the front to keep the kicker from knocking them over. One could add a ridge to the slider too, but the clear piece worked great.
I use wing nuts to tighten the baffle too, but for this video I'd just bore you with screwing on 3 more wing nuts.....

Yes the ramp is more efficient....but except for that last bullet not by much. The baffle keeps base down from ever happening when wing nuts are used to secure it against the plate verticals.


https://youtu.be/V5eUsfQhSvU

[Phlier]

Files are down right now because people can't seem to control their comments in open forums.

Oh no.... did I do/say something wrong???


Phlier, 3rd try with the 9 mm design was the charm. Holes were too long. Berry's plated works.....most likely the cast boolits will too. The only negative is the last bullet seems to have a hard time going in by itself (bullet's heavy base too often wants to go first....but that's minor....

I added a clear styrene piece at the front to keep the kicker from knocking them over. One could add a ridge to the slider too, but the clear piece worked great.
I use wing nuts to tighten the baffle too, but for this video I'd just bore you with screwing on 3 more wing nuts.....

Yes the ramp is more efficient....but except for that last bullet not by much. The baffle keeps base down from ever happening when wing nuts are used to secure it against the plate verticals.


https://youtu.be/V5eUsfQhSvU
Thank you, again!

I just got a Voxelab Aquila printer yesterday, which I'm working on getting setup today, so I should be able to get printing without having to depend on my son's printer soon!

I really appreciate your help with this, GWS!

[TylerR]

Oh no.... did I do/say something wrong???


No not on here.

[j_dude77]

Tyler,

Long time no talk. Been away for a bit, work has been crazy. Just wanted to thank you for all the work you have done on this project. I now building my second collator. I did notice that the drop tubes and adapters have a small problem. Seems to be a gap on the 6mm and 7mm tubes and on the 14mm adapter.284364284363

[GWS]

I just got a Voxelab Aquila printer yesterday, which I'm working on getting setup today, so I should be able to get printing without having to depend on my son's printer soon!

I really appreciate your help with this, GWS!

Wait! While it worked I just realized I reversed the holes from what I did on the .45's! Nuts! I was wondering why they were all unstable rotating! In a minute I will reverse the holes and I'm positive it will improve it a lot! Sorry.....egg drying on my face.... Posted the new files below!!! will correct the other previous posts.

May not even need the clear plastic now.....:roll:

Better ME printing it four times than you.....

[TylerR]

Tyler,

Long time no talk. Been away for a bit, work has been crazy. Just wanted to thank you for all the work you have done on this project. I now building my second collator. I did notice that the drop tubes and adapters have a small problem. Seems to be a gap on the 6mm and 7mm tubes and on the 14mm adapter.284364284363


Hey jdude. I went back and looked at the 3 parts. The minimum distance on the two drop tubes is above .4mm, so your slicer should not show a gap there unless you are using a larger nozzle. You were right about the #14 adapter though. The recessed "4" was less then .4mm. I fixed that and reposted.

[GWS]

Hey jdude. I went back and looked at the 3 parts. The minimum distance on the two drop tubes is above .4mm, so your slicer should not show a gap there unless you are using a larger nozzle. You were right about the #14 adapter though. The recessed "4" was less then .4mm. I fixed that and reposted.

Never ends does it? ;)

[Phlier]

Wait! While it worked I just realized I reversed the holes from what I did on the .45's! Nuts! I was wondering why they were all unstable rotating! In a minute I will reverse the holes and I'm positive it will improve it a lot! Sorry.....egg drying on my face.... Posted the new files below!!! will correct the other previous posts.

May not even need the clear plastic now.....:roll:

Better ME printing it four times than you.....

Excellent, GWS!

I'm still upgrading my Voxelab Aquila (Ender 3 clone), so I haven't had a chance to print the plate yet.

So the second AmmoMike BF that I bought arrived two days ago. It has the hex drive. So I have one BF with the old drive setup, and one BF with the hex drive.

Your plates are for the AM version BF, and not the TylerR, right?

I'm adding a BLTouch probe and a few other odds and ends to the printer today.

[GWS]

Yes the plates are for the Ammo Mike base. I have two of Tyler's collators, one of Mike's. Tyler's Mondo giants are a little too big for my space. His others do great for me. If I ever start casting, I may redo this ramp-less nose down design for the bigger base.

I'm going to test the latest this evening.....REDOWNLOAD FILES TONIGHT...to save you from having to print again..... I had to repost them again because I'm printing the plate without the upright deflectors!.....[smilie=b:forgot to combine the drawings when I reversed hole direction. Fixed as of 4pm today (6/12).

I'm okay with the waste..... I have a lot of that green roll left. It's not the same formula as their usual and requires 230 degrees vs 215 for the other formula. They ran out last January and made this green up to fill orders while the usual formula was backordered. It looks great, but everything had to be set up different from all my other PLA. So I don't mind using this up. It's a $20 PIA! Spelling intentional.

[Phlier]

Yes the plates are for the Ammo Mike base. I have two of Tyler's collators, one of Mike's. Tyler's Mondo giants are a little too big for my space. His others do great for me. If I ever start casting, I may redo this ramp-less nose down design for the bigger base.

I'm going to test the latest this evening.....REDOWNLOAD FILES TONIGHT...to save you from having to print again..... I had to repost them again because I'm printing the plate without the upright deflectors!.....[smilie=b:forgot to combine the drawings when I reversed hole direction. Fixed as of 4pm today (6/12).

I'm okay with the waste..... I have a lot of that green roll left. It's not the same formula as their usual and requires 230 degrees vs 215 for the other formula. They ran out last January and made this green up to fill orders while the usual formula was backordered. It looks great, but everything had to be set up different from all my other PLA. So I don't mind using this up. It's a $20 PIA! Spelling intentional.

Got 'em, thanks!

I peered into the rabbit hole that is tuning your new 3D printer, and before I knew it, found myself 100ft down.

Managing to crank out the parts for my first TylerR et al. BF, though! Printed the post mount last night. It came out decent, but showed me that I still have some more print settings to tweak; I'm getting stringing and other signs of poor retraction.

I'm waiting to print out your files, GWS, until I get my print settings dialed in to give me the best possible outcome. And as it turns out, the other non-critical parts of the project are an excellent way to make progress on getting the needed parts together, while also working on tuning the print settings.

Luckily, I have my 3D printing guru son to help me out.

BTW, I don't know if you guys are interested or not, but Amazon has a special right now on a PLA+ that my boy recommended to me. It prints like a dream, and is as close to an exact match for Dillon blue as I think you can get. The special is two, one kilo rolls for 34 bucks. Here's a non-affiliate link to it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0883FS7PH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been printing it at 210C nozzle, 60C bed and it's just really good stuff. Had no idea a cheap printer like my Ender 3 clone could produce such great results.

As a side note.... the first AM BF that I bought nearly two years ago came with a 3/4" ID iron pipe post mount for the bottom of the post that I have been unable to find an stl for anywhere. It's a fantastic mount, in that it can be both clamped or bolted to your reloading bench. It has a round, wide base (plenty of room for clamps for temporary mounting), with a flat side so you can mount it flush to the front of your bench without it sticking over it. I'll post a pic of it later.

I've been nagging my son to recreate it in CAD for me, so I can at least contribute *something* to this project... even if it is my son's work! ;)

[GWS]

I apologize.....you'll have to copy the files one more time.....when I added the verticals back in I didn't notice it snapped to the wrong place and they aren't centered between holes....sigh....fixed it. If it's any consolation I added a new slider for Ammo Mike's base for use with these nose-down plates....insurance. Not tested yet (tonight again....hope my printer doesn't wear out!;) ) But if there's any problem with the slider I will fix it....or you can just use the flat one A.M. supplied.

https://i.postimg.cc/bvZJNjWy/nose-down-slider.png

[Phlier]

I apologize.....you'll have to copy the files one more time.....when I added the verticals back in I didn't notice it snapped to the wrong place and they aren't centered between holes....sigh....fixed it. If it's any consolation I added a new slider for Ammo Mike's base for use with these nose-down plates....insurance. Not tested yet (tonight again....hope my printer doesn't wear out!;) ) But if there's any problem with the slider I will fix it....or you can just use the flat one A.M. supplied.

https://i.postimg.cc/bvZJNjWy/nose-down-slider.png

Excellent, GWS, I'm hoping to get them on the printer tonight!

[GWS]

The 9mm shape is giving me more trouble than the .45 did. I'm still getting a few base down....the skinnier diameter and slick surface of the Berry's bullets makes it easier to tuck in base down in spite of the minimum height of the "cover" over the plate. I need more time unless you want to print this project more than once.......and the slider vertical is not compatible with the spring loaded bullet knocker....I'm attempting to do without that noisy thing with a new part screwed to the side of the base, since by the time around that merry-go-round, a correctly oriented bullet/boolit has dropped below any protruding part that might knock it back to the bottom. Designing the "protruder" today. Sigh, and may have to change the three verticals (again) in the plate to make that work.

This has become much more complicated than the other one was......but may go back and copy the feature to the .45 version if it works, because it will not have that loud constant grating knocking sound I dislike.

So only print tonight if you and/or your son want to do your own experimenting........too bad you don't do .45.......it sure was easier. ;) (lead boolits might not have the same problem either.)

Update. The direction it's going is more positive....seeing the end of the tunnel. Give me another day. Prelim. quiet version test went well.

[j_dude77]

Hey jdude. I went back and looked at the 3 parts. The minimum distance on the two drop tubes is above .4mm, so your slicer should not show a gap there unless you are using a larger nozzle. You were right about the #14 adapter though. The recessed "4" was less then .4mm. I fixed that and reposted.

I am using a .4mm nozzle, not sure why it is doing it. 8mm+ drop tubes don't do it. Weird.

[GWS]

I had to go back to the spring bullet knocker....just too many things to go wrong with a silent one.

Here's a video of the finished design. It's similar to the .45 acp one....did away with plastic risers on the plate. I wanted to make them tall enough to make the baffle placement easy (just lay on top). But they broke under stress with a whole load of bullets, so I went back to steel posts the same height.....just two were required....near the edge, and 180 degrees away from another.

Ran out of time tonight....I need to make the final changes to the parts. So final files will have to be tomorrow.....yeah always tomorrow....but this time it's done and it works. I also changed the spring knocker....with a dremel......so will make a pretty version of that tomorrow. Notice the slider custom made for this....requiring the knocker change.


https://youtu.be/p_cuz5VTd-c

Adding a picture or two showing the flat plate minus PLA verticals, the slider, and and the modified knocker.

https://i.postimg.cc/0jHmY8sX/IMG-3896.jpg

The stainless 1/8" diameter wire, I got a Lowes or Home Depot in a 2' length....Dremel to 24mm lengths. I will add the holes clear through the plate in the design tomorrow. Should be a friction fit...pound them in flush to the bottom.

Notice the two holes in the walls? The top one is for the .45 plate. I just rotated the baffle that much. The idea is to place the baffle over a plate....put a couple of spacers under it first, then drill with an angle drill or hand drill from the inside, through the three 3dprinted holes in the baffle. I used #3 hex head metric bolts.

If you make the wires 24mm long for the 9mm plate you can just lay the baffle on top, but put a half a mm between to raise it just enough not to scrape. (thick paper ...a file folder?)

https://i.postimg.cc/gj08Lxf6/IMG-3898.jpg

Slider will be included in the files....it has a little trough in front of the wall. See the picture in my last posts.
Below: Knocker is notched on top for the baffle piece on top. And notched on the bottom for the slider wall.....bullets didn't mind.;)

https://i.postimg.cc/4dPp36Fg/IMG-3897.jpg

Should get the files wrapped up tomorrow......geeze....I may have to learn how to cast boolits now........any tips to get started minus the mistakes and wasted purchases?

[TylerR]

I had to go back to the spring bullet knocker....just too many things to go wrong with a silent one.

Here's a video of the finished design. It's similar to the .45 acp one....did away with plastic risers on the plate. I wanted to make them tall enough to make the baffle placement easy (just lay on top). But they broke under stress with a whole load of bullets, so I went back to steel posts the same height.....just two were required....one near the edge, and 180 degrees away another, but 10mm in from the edge.

Ran out of time tonight....I need to make the final changes to the parts. So final files will have to be tomorrow.....yeah always tomorrow....but this time it's done and it works. I also changed the spring knocker....with a dremel......so will make a pretty version of that tomorrow. Notice the slider custom made for this....requiring the knocker change.

Adding a picture or two showing the flat plate minus PLA verticals, the slider, and and the modified knocker.


The stainless 1/8" diameter wire, I got a Lowes or Home Depot in a 2' length....Dremel to 24mm lengths. I will add the holes clear through the plate in the design tomorrow. Should be a friction fit...pound them in flush to the bottom.

Notice the two holes in the walls? The top one is for the .45 plate. I just rotated the baffle that much. The idea is to place the baffle over a plate....put a couple of spacers under it first, then drill with an angle drill or hand drill from the inside, through the three 3dprinted holes in the baffle. I used #3 hex head metric bolts.

If you make the wires 24mm long for the 9mm plate you can just lay the baffle on top, but put a half a mm between to raise it just enough not to scrape. (thick paper ...a file folder?)

Slider will be included in the files....it has a little trough in front of the wall. See the picture in my last posts.
Below: Knocker is notched on top for the baffle piece on top. And notched on the bottom for the slider wall.....bullets didn't mind.;)

Should get the files wrapped up tomorrow......geeze....I may have to learn how to cast boolits now........any tips to get started minus the mistakes and wasted purchases?

GWS, I love your ingenuity and creativeness with this design.

[Phlier]

I had to go back to the spring bullet knocker....just too many things to go wrong with a silent one.

Here's a video of the finished design. It's similar to the .45 acp one....did away with plastic risers on the plate. I wanted to make them tall enough to make the baffle placement easy (just lay on top). But they broke under stress with a whole load of bullets, so I went back to steel posts the same height.....just two were required....one near the edge, and 180 degrees away another, but 10mm in from the edge.

Ran out of time tonight....I need to make the final changes to the parts. So final files will have to be tomorrow.....yeah always tomorrow....but this time it's done and it works. I also changed the spring knocker....with a dremel......so will make a pretty version of that tomorrow. Notice the slider custom made for this....requiring the knocker change.


https://youtu.be/p_cuz5VTd-c

Adding a picture or two showing the flat plate minus PLA verticals, the slider, and and the modified knocker.

https://i.postimg.cc/0jHmY8sX/IMG-3896.jpg

The stainless 1/8" diameter wire, I got a Lowes or Home Depot in a 2' length....Dremel to 24mm lengths. I will add the holes clear through the plate in the design tomorrow. Should be a friction fit...pound them in flush to the bottom.

Notice the two holes in the walls? The top one is for the .45 plate. I just rotated the baffle that much. The idea is to place the baffle over a plate....put a couple of spacers under it first, then drill with an angle drill or hand drill from the inside, through the three 3dprinted holes in the baffle. I used #3 hex head metric bolts.

If you make the wires 24mm long for the 9mm plate you can just lay the baffle on top, but put a half a mm between to raise it just enough not to scrape. (thick paper ...a file folder?)

https://i.postimg.cc/gj08Lxf6/IMG-3898.jpg

Slider will be included in the files....it has a little trough in front of the wall. See the picture in my last posts.
Below: Knocker is notched on top for the baffle piece on top. And notched on the bottom for the slider wall.....bullets didn't mind.;)

https://i.postimg.cc/4dPp36Fg/IMG-3897.jpg

Should get the files wrapped up tomorrow......geeze....I may have to learn how to cast boolits now........any tips to get started minus the mistakes and wasted purchases?

No worries, GWS, I really appreciate all the work you're putting into this!

My printer is currently having some Z-axis issues, which is pretty common on Ender 3 clones. I'm getting some parts in today to have a stab at getting them solved... it's losing Z-axis steps. That being the case, it's going to be a few more days before I can even start printing more BF parts/plates. So take your time. :)

Cheap printers are capable of putting out some pretty nice prints, but they certainly aren't an out-of-the-box experience... they take some time, effort, etc. to get them up to scratch.

[GWS]

Below: Picture of the modified flipper/knocker that works for my nose down AmmoMike size collator....noisy, annoying but the best way so far.

Of course this is added to the files you can download.

BTW, you might want to delete all the duplicated pictures of my posts so they don't use up so much band width....besides I think people might be getting sick of the color green! ;)....they may ban me....

[Steveo2882]

A JAR file is similar to a ZIP file. It stands for Java ARchive, and is a way to bundle a bunch of java files into one archive. So you'll need to "unzip" the JAR file like you do a Zip file in order to access the files in it. You'll need a program like "7-Zip" or the like to unpack the JAR.

After you unpack the JAR, read the Manual for instructions on using the Parts Generator.

Hmmm... Think this subject might make it into my Cliff Notes.

After extracting the jar file, I click the generator and it opens a file in openscad that is the large pistol plate. The generator never actually opens. I’m sure it’s probably something small I’m not doing, but I can’t figure out. A buddy I gave the files to is having the same problem I am.

[GWS]

GWS, I love your ingenuity and creativeness with this design.

Okay Tyler back to you. (You all should know that I took advantage of TylerR's distracting busy Youth Baseball summer to post this back to the past little collator application.

Interestingly my brother (a doctor with more money than me) just bought a Mr. Bullet feeder, and asked me to coach him on it. Yes I had offered to print him the cheap stuff. Anyway, it appears to be the same diameter as Ammo Mikes. The plastic they use is tough stuff and really heavy.....wondering if he drops it on the concrete floor whether it will shatter.....yup that hard. I see zero advantages to it over what we are doing on this site.....and it doesn't use clutches!!! Tyler, maybe you could sue them if they ever start.....;)

I really ought to make a clutch for the ammo mike plates.....or did RedlegEd already do that?

BTW, Tyler, I STILL love this polypropylene base plate you talked me into. It's just flawless! Sticks every time as long as I clean it with 99% alcohol before every print........and if I adulterate it with anything a quick light sanding with 220grit restores it in about 30 seconds.....it's THAT good.....saves SO much headache printing. It's been nearly ten months with no end in sight....the Creality one that came with my CR10 v2 lasted ONE MONTH! No hairspsray, no glue, no nothing!

[TylerR]

Okay Tyler back to you. (You all should know that I took advantage of TylerR's distracting busy Youth Baseball summer to post this back to the past little collator application.

Interestingly my brother (a doctor with more money than me) just bought a Mr. Bullet feeder, and asked me to coach him on it. Yes I had offered to print him the cheap stuff. Anyway, it appears to be the same diameter as Ammo Mikes. The plastic they use is tough stuff and really heavy.....wondering if he drops it on the concrete floor whether it will shatter.....yup that hard. I see zero advantages to it over what we are doing on this site.....and it doesn't use clutches!!! Tyler, maybe you could sue them if they ever start.....;)

I really ought to make a clutch for the ammo mike plates.....or did RedlegEd already do that?

BTW, Tyler, I STILL love this polypropylene base plate you talked me into. It's just flawless! Sticks every time as long as I clean it with 99% alcohol before every print........and if I adulterate it with anything a quick light sanding with 220grit restores it in about 30 seconds.....it's THAT good.....saves SO much headache printing. It's been nearly ten months with no end in sight....the Creality one that came with my CR10 v2 lasted ONE MONTH! No hairspsray, no glue, no nothing!

You can use the plate generator to create AM sized plates that work with the clutch for the bigger plates.

I am really glad it is working as well for you as it does for me. Easiest, most reliable printing surface I have ever tried. And I do the exact same thing as you. If I get any major scratch or scuff on it, I just hit it with the sand paper again. Good as new.

[TylerR]

After extracting the jar file, I click the generator and it opens a file in openscad that is the large pistol plate. The generator never actually opens. I’m sure it’s probably something small I’m not doing, but I can’t figure out. A buddy I gave the files to is having the same problem I am.

You don't actually want to extract the jar. If you have java runtime installed, just double clicking the jar should launch the app. If it does not work you may want to try and re-install java.

https://www.java.com/download/ie_manual.jsp

[GWS]

You can use the plate generator to create AM sized plates that work with the clutch for the bigger plates.

I am really glad it is working as well for you as it does for me. Easiest, most reliable printing surface I have ever tried. And I do the exact same thing as you. If I get any major scratch or scuff on it, I just hit it with the sand paper again. Good as new.;

Great! That will save me some time......should be able to get the measurements I need to add the feature to my plates.....that will fit your clutch parts (and mine);) Hard to beat Ammo Mike's plate generator.....too bad I'll never be up to speed with that software, but I can steal measurements.

With the little time I probably have left on this planet, I think it's better for me to design with what I know.......rather that spend all my time learning two new totally foreign programs. That would leave me with way less time to design. I know enough to just get me in trouble.......

[GWS]

That was too easy, thanks TylerR.

So here's the "really" final files....with the clutch center additional choice.:)

https://i.postimg.cc/SNC4nTNh/Clutched-GWS-Nose-Down-9mm-Plate.png

TylerR will have to give you the clutch parts....that's his product. More than worth it. I probably would have so many broken plates had he thought of that clutch design in the beginning. Without one motors are hard on plates.

These plates are not for the bigger post Ammo Mike collator bases designed by TylerR. These are too small.

We may eventually make them for the bigger bases if there is demand. So far no such demand.

[TylerR]

That was too easy, thanks TylerR.

So here's the "really" final files....with the clutch center additional choice.:)


TylerR will have to give you the clutch parts....that's his product. More than worth it. I probably would have so many broken plates had he thought of that clutch design in the beginning. Without one motors are hard on plates.

Don't bother to print these plates if you only printed the bigger post Ammo Mike collator bases. They are too small.

GWS how did you get those funky offset holes in that plate?

[GWS]

GWS how did you get those funky offset holes in that plate?

https://i.postimg.cc/1z8XjxZq/Screenshot-2021-06-17-223327.png
push polyline hole through solid plate....now I have 2 solids distinct and separate
then below, hole shape is arrayed around the center of the plate 18 holes
https://i.postimg.cc/YST0cXpy/Screenshot-2021-06-17-223406.png
then below autocad has a separation command .... choose the solid....then choose solid to separate....leaves the holes....
https://i.postimg.cc/0yWrnkhv/Screenshot-2021-06-17-223444.png

I'll try to resize the first picture so you can read it.....

https://i.postimg.cc/KY4jH1Mf/Nose-down-9mm-rampless-plate-Model.png
https://i.postimg.cc/TPS1MTj6/Nose-down-45-rampless-plate-Model.png

There clear as mud, right? ;)
The way it works is....if a bullet starts going in, nose first, the enlongated shape allows it to fall with minimum upwards tilt. IOW's the baffle on top doesn't affect it's drop even tho the baffle is only 10 mm above the plate.

However if it tries to go in base down it will have to tilt upwards more than the baffle allows (fatter base) before it can drop...therefore it will not drop....it just rides around at a tilt, above the surface, until the knocker knocks it back to the bottom.

[Phlier]

Wow, gents, thank you for all the work on this project!

I think I'll be able to get started printing the GWS nose down plates tonight. :)

[GWS]

I printed out and tested the latest clutched version and found out the 2 much smaller upright slots I added, still caused jams....or in the case of the clutched version slippage.(that's the point...slippage not breakage:)) The problem was the uprights were 3.33mm too close to the outside edge of the plate and caused "soldiers" (for which the uprights were added in the first place) to jam between the upright slots and the baffle protrusions.

The cure was to shorten the upright slots by 3.33mm. Now as the slots rotate by, the soldiers (vertical bullets against the baffle) tip underneath the baffle perfectly, and the problem went away.

So, Phlier, the files are corrected. So throw away what you downloaded and download once more from the last post with the files.....we will perfect this. ;)

(I'm not updating the old posts anymore, so go to the last posted zip. Post 4598)

[TylerR]

push polyline hole through solid plate....now I have 2 solids distinct and separate
then below, hole shape is arrayed around the center of the plate 18 holes
then below autocad has a separation command .... choose the solid....then choose solid to separate....leaves the holes....

I'll try to resize the first picture so you can read it.....

There clear as mud, right? ;)
The way it works is....if a bullet starts going in, nose first, the enlongated shape allows it to fall with minimum upwards tilt. IOW's the baffle on top doesn't affect it's drop even tho the baffle is only 10 mm above the plate.

However if it tries to go in base down it will have to tilt upwards more than the baffle allows (fatter base) before it can drop...therefore it will not drop....it just rides around at a tilt, above the surface, until the knocker knocks it back to the bottom.

For a guy who supposedly doesn't design, you sure do so damn good work man. That **** went right over my head. What did you do for a day job again?

[GWS]

For a guy who supposedly doesn't design, you sure do so damn good work man. That **** went right over my head. What did you do for a day job again?

I design and build homes and commercial buildings.....slightly different....all 2D. But Autocad which I've used for 50 years, does do 3D....I just had to buy a 3d printer to have the desire to learn that side!:veryconfu That emoji is what my brain feels like trying to do that.

Trying to do this for Phlier gives me new respect for what you've accomplished. I've printed out 6 of these stupid 9mm plates now, and maybe it'll finally work 100%.....maybe....... It's just one stupid plate! You built a whole system.....

[Phlier]

I printed out and tested the latest clutched version and found out the 2 much smaller upright slots I added, still caused jams....or in the case of the clutched version slippage.(that's the point...slippage not breakage:)) The problem was the uprights were 3.33mm too close to the outside edge of the plate and caused "soldiers" (for which the uprights were added in the first place) to jam between the upright slots and the baffle protrusions.

The cure was to shorten the upright slots by 3.33mm. Now as the slots rotate by, the soldiers (vertical bullets against the baffle) tip underneath the baffle perfectly, and the problem went away.

So, Phlier, the files are corrected. So throw away what you downloaded and download once more from the last post with the files.....we will perfect this. ;)

(I'm not updating the old posts anymore, so go to the last posted zip. Post 4598)

GWS, you're my hero.

Putting in all this work to help strangers out over the internet... You guys are top notch.

I think your design for nose down boolit (and bullet) feeding is just brilliant.

I'm still working on my Cliff Notes version of this thread, but I have to admit that the new printer has taken a lot of time away from that project; I have a very large number of pages left to go through still. I'm tempted to post what I have so far, and just add to it over time. I'm not going to contaminate this thread with it, though.. it'll be it's own thread.

[robpiat]

When I open the mongo main in cura it’s too big for the printer. I’ve got my printer dimensions at 300x300x340. Is it bigger than that?

[GWS]

The new Mongo version of TylerR's collator is for much bigger printers....my Creality CR10v2 @ 300x300x400 isn't big enough.

However the regular sized base that fits your printer and mine....and even the smaller Ender 3's ;), works great for any bullet caliber, and I use a second one for brass. (.308 rifle brass works great using that size.)

[robpiat]

The new Mongo version of TylerR's collator is for much bigger printers....my Creality CR10v2 @ 300x300x400 isn't big enough.

However the regular sized base that fits your printer and mine....and even the smaller Ender 3's ;), works great for any bullet caliber, and I use a second one for brass. (.308 rifle brass works great using that size.)


Was there ever a version in the middle? I'm new to this and certainly a little hesitant on just scaling stuff and hoping it works.

[GWS]

First there was Ammo Mike's base and the plates that went with it. It was the size of the first Mr. Bullet Feeders.

Then TylerR came along and made his larger base and plates. That's mostly whats on TylerR's files....stuff for that.

Then just a couple of months ago TylerR made Mongo.......a big one the size of Dillon's giant case feeder.....that one requires a large bed printer.

Doesn't the manual explain that?

[wbbh]

I've been reading through this thread with an interest to get started with 3D printing, in particular, a bullet feeder for myself and one for the two other family reloaders.. There is quite an evolution of machines, designs, and materials that is difficult to follow. Is there a post with the current recommendations for a printer, materials, and a design, in particular, where the files might be located as the links in the early posts here are dead?

Thanks!

[GWS]

Ammo Mike's files were removed by him. That was the smaller base and plate system.

TylerR's files (last rendition in post 4603 at the bottom of his last post...signature spot...). Downloads are hot today. Most people are most served by his bigger (than Ammo Mike's) improved model. The Mondo model....TylerR's latest huge model will only be useful if you have a big bed printer.....bigger than my CR-10 version 2 and it's 300x300x400 bed....and a lot more PLA. ;) I think you need a 350x350 bed minimum. I'm sure he added it to collate large rifle brass as it's similar in size to Dillons case feeder, but I'm doing fine collating .308 and .223 brass from the regular sized TylerR base and plates.....if I were reloading 30-06 or bigger I might find it necessary to buy another bigger printer!;)

If you have an Ender 3, you can print any of Tyler's files that doesn't say Mongo.

The Parts Generator.jar application, and the Manual has everything in it to help you choose what to print. To print plates you need to download Openscad application....a free programming cad application.....to use the .jar file you need to download another free app from Java.....explained in the downloads. You will have to do some homework.....this is not a five minute shake and bake endeavor, but it's more than worth it.

[robpiat]

I tried searching the thread but no luck. For 9mm, is there any advantage to using a hornady or other feed die over the 3dp die?

[GWS]

You don't have to search the whole thread.......just download the TylerR's zip file, download the OpenScad app, read the manual, download the free Java App referred to in the manual, and use the Parts Generator to get you the files you need to print. AmmoMike's files were the small base unit, TylerR's is the medium sized base collator, and Mondo is the Giant one, which you can't make with your small printer anyway.

As for a feed die, the only advantage to the commercial ones is you don't have to print them......or learn how to print them and tweak them successfully.

Read my last post replying to wbbh. Then download the zip file from the bottom of Tyler's last post.....and unzip them.....then you have the printfiles and all the instructions most people need.

Maybe TylerR will come along, and perhaps he can make it more clear?

[TylerR]

I've been reading through this thread with an interest to get started with 3D printing, in particular, a bullet feeder for myself and one for the two other family reloaders.. There is quite an evolution of machines, designs, and materials that is difficult to follow. Is there a post with the current recommendations for a printer, materials, and a design, in particular, where the files might be located as the links in the early posts here are dead?

Thanks!

Take a look down here.

| | | |
| | | |
V V V

[wbbh]

You don't have to search the whole thread.......just download the TylerR's zip file, download the OpenScad app, read the manual, download the free Java App referred to in the manual, and use the Parts Generator to get you the files you need to print. AmmoMike's files were the small base unit, TylerR's is the medium sized base collator, and Mondo is the Giant one, which you can't make with your small printer anyway.

As for a feed die, the only advantage to the commercial ones is you don't have to print them......or learn how to print them and tweak them successfully.

Read my last post replying to wbbh. Then download the zip file from the bottom of Tyler's last post.....and unzip them.....then you have the printfiles and all the instructions most people need.

Maybe TylerR will come along, and perhaps he can make it more clear?


Take a look down here.

| | | |
| | | |
V V V

Thank you both very much! I downloaded the files and started down the rabbit hole.

Apologies for not replying sooner, I thought I had subscribed to this thread but I was mistaken.

Again, thank you very much.

[GWS]

You are welcome, but my part is minuscule see the Kudos below......this thread exists for people like you and me for personal use only, created by some really smart and generous people....and speaking of "only".......I only started last Fall.....and I'm old and approaching senile.....if I can do it so can you.

Kudos to Ammo Mike and TylerR, RedlegEd, and of course o146 who created the manual and the project generator.

[TylerR]

You are welcome, but my part is minuscule see the Kudos below......this thread exists for people like you and me for personal use only, created by some really smart and generous people....and speaking of "only".......I only started last Fall.....and I'm old and approaching senile.....if I can do it so can you.

Kudos to Ammo Mike and TylerR, RedlegEd, and of course o146 who created the manual and the project generator.

GWS does not include himself in that list, but he knows everything I did to put the sensor right below the collator (Drop_Tube_Alt) was based on his design. And he was the inspiration behind using the proximity sensor, and a bunch of other things :wink:

[robpiat]

Got everything printed and ordering the electronics....Some of this stuff is very similar to the annealer I built. On that the proximity sensor was wired in the circuit for the motor and acted as the relay. Is there any reason why the prox sensor couldn't be wired in after the speed control and not have a relay? ETA - Looking at teh annealer the Prox sensor goes to the motor controller.

[TylerR]

Got everything printed and ordering the electronics....Some of this stuff is very similar to the annealer I built. On that the proximity sensor was wired in the circuit for the motor and acted as the relay. Is there any reason why the prox sensor couldn't be wired in after the speed control and not have a relay? ETA - Looking at teh annealer the Prox sensor goes to the motor controller.

It is not a good idea because most of the prox sensors can not handle the amperage to run the motor at full load.

[CS223]

NVM I found it

[TylerR]

I ordered the DAA large & small springs, which Spring tube sizes do I select in the parts generator?

I believe it is the 10mm and 13mm that you want.

[Dsltech1]

Is it possible to mount two collators together using the Dillon mount? Or will that mount only work on a Dillon case feeder?

[TylerR]

Is it possible to mount two collators together using the Dillon mount? Or will that mount only work on a Dillon case feeder?

If you look in the Contributors folder there is a dual mount setup from Kc10kevin. It uses a vertical post and a horizontal square tube.

285834

[TylerR]

Figured I would post this here for anyone interested. There is a crazy deal right now for a $169.00 Ender 5 printer. That is half what I paid for mine, and less then most Ender 3's. Ships from USA too.

https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ender-5-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220+300mm-Printing-Size-With-Resume-Print-Dual-Y-Axis-Motor-Soft-Magnetic-Sticker-Support-Off-line-Print-p-1437021.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=USA

[wbbh]

Figured I would post this here for anyone interested. There is a crazy deal right now for a $169.00 Ender 5 printer. That is half what I paid for mine, and less then most Ender 3's. Ships from USA too.

https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ender-5-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220+300mm-Printing-Size-With-Resume-Print-Dual-Y-Axis-Motor-Soft-Magnetic-Sticker-Support-Off-line-Print-p-1437021.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=USA

Wow, that makes choosing a printer much easier. Since it ships from China, are there any suggestions for additional items/upgrades?

[Dsltech1]

If you look in the Contributors folder there is a dual mount setup from Kc10kevin. It uses a vertical post and a horizontal square tube.

285834

Awesome! I thought that mount was something else. Thanks

[TylerR]

Wow, that makes choosing a printer much easier. Since it ships from China, are there any suggestions for additional items/upgrades?

It says it ships from USA, not China.

[r4ndy]

For the ender 5 the bltouch is a nice addition for auto bed leveling. Aside from that I upgraded my board to the latest silent version to run Marlin 2, newer machines might already have this. I also printed bed supports and a cover for the motor on the cross bar the print head is on as the Bowden tube would catch on the motor on occasion.

If you don’t have a nice stable room temperature (e.g. basement) I recommend the Creality enclosure or a diy one to help with stabilizing ambient temp and avoid prints lifting. For PLA I didn’t have too many issues, but with PETG I had a lot of problems until I got an enclosure.

Also, I prefer a glass bed, others will recommend some other types, but glass and a purple glue stick has worked great for me.

[wbbh]

It says it ships from USA, not China.

Doh! Thanks.


For the ender 5 the bltouch is a nice addition for auto bed leveling. Aside from that I upgraded my board to the latest silent version to run Marlin 2, newer machines might already have this. I also printed bed supports and a cover for the motor on the cross bar the print head is on as the Bowden tube would catch on the motor on occasion.

If you don’t have a nice stable room temperature (e.g. basement) I recommend the Creality enclosure or a diy one to help with stabilizing ambient temp and avoid prints lifting. For PLA I didn’t have too many issues, but with PETG I had a lot of problems until I got an enclosure.

Also, I prefer a glass bed, others will recommend some other types, but glass and a purple glue stick has worked great for me.

Thanks!

[TylerR]

Just wanted to share there is a new version out there. v1.4.6.2

A few minor changes here and there.
Biggest development is the new quick detach handle. Allows you to print a few handles for all your plates and just attach it when in use. Makes storage of plates much simpler.

285888

[greekman]

Just wanted to share there is a new version out there. v1.4.6.2

A few minor changes here and there.
Biggest development is the new quick detach handle. Allows you to print a few handles for all you plates and just attach it when in use. Makes storage of plates much simpler.

285888

wow nice refinement :drinks:

[TylerR]

wow nice refinement :drinks:

Thanks! for anyone printing it, the handle should be on its side to avoid supports.

285978

[Mr_Sheesh]

You would want an amplifier for the prox sensor, either a microcontroller reading its; output and controlling a transistor or the transistor directly, I'd have to read up on this to make a good suggestion. Sensors aren't usually able to drive high power things directly, though, true.

[GWS]

Figured I would post this here for anyone interested. There is a crazy deal right now for a $169.00 Ender 5 printer. That is half what I paid for mine, and less then most Ender 3's. Ships from USA too.

https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ender-5-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220+300mm-Printing-Size-With-Resume-Print-Dual-Y-Axis-Motor-Soft-Magnetic-Sticker-Support-Off-line-Print-p-1437021.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=USA

Interesting....Creality is still cutting prices on CR10 printers too. I paid $500 for my CR10 version 2 with the 300x300x400 bed, quiet board and Z-triangular supports....regular price now is $420, and on sale today for $380......24% less than what I paid. Works well, especially with a autoleveler and a polypropylene bed added...

Ender 5's and their close cousins are too big a footprint for my space, but if you can fit one in yours great. I like the model that has the 350mm bed...Ender 5+ At that footprint I'd rather pay for the big "mondo" bed size....;) But $580 is a lot of money....maybe that price will come down too.

[wbbh]

Figured I would post this here for anyone interested. There is a crazy deal right now for a $169.00 Ender 5 printer. That is half what I paid for mine, and less then most Ender 3's. Ships from USA too.

https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ender-5-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220+300mm-Printing-Size-With-Resume-Print-Dual-Y-Axis-Motor-Soft-Magnetic-Sticker-Support-Off-line-Print-p-1437021.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=USA

Ordered and received, thank you very much! Right now they have the Ender 5 for $159.00 here:

https://usa.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ender-5-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220+300mm-Printing-Size-With-Resume-Print-Dual-Y-Axis-Motor-Soft-Magnetic-Sticker-Support-Off-line-Print-p-1437021.html?utmid=18875&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=Mail_usa12_1&utm_campaign=newsletteremarsys&utm_content=leander&sc_src=email_4901533&sc_eh=e18082b801c7e5d21&sc_llid=23013&sc_lid=214406624&sc_uid=pJQH6dVeH7&cur_warehouse=USA

[wbbh]

Interesting....Creality is still cutting prices on CR10 printers too. I paid $500 for my CR10 version 2 with the 300x300x400 bed, quiet board and Z-triangular supports....regular price now is $420, and on sale today for $380......24% less than what I paid. Works well, especially with a autoleveler and a polypropylene bed added...

$259 now, 3D printer prices are very fluid for some reason.

https://usa.banggood.com/Creality-3D-CR-10-V2-3D-Printer-DIY-Kit-300+300+400mm-Print-Size-with-TMC2208-Ultra-mute-Driver-p-1557934.html?cur_warehouse=USA&rmmds=search

[Enehmee]

Hey guys, just want to say thank you to everyone involved for all the hard work you all put into this! Reading through this thread, watching the videos, and reading through the manual, convinced me to buy an Ender 3 V2 and get to printing! I got everything printed, and I added all the parts to my Amazon cart, the only question I had was are there other options for the speed controller? The only reason I ask is because everything else on the list would be at my house in a few days but the controller wouldn’t arrive until August 4th to the 14th, with our baby due mid august I’d rather have it quicker than that. Again, thank you everyone for all the work put into this project!!!

[TylerR]

Hey guys, just want to say thank you to everyone involved for all the hard work you all put into this! Reading through this thread, watching the videos, and reading through the manual, convinced me to buy an Ender 3 V2 and get to printing! I got everything printed, and I added all the parts to my Amazon cart, the only question I had was are there other options for the speed controller? The only reason I ask is because everything else on the list would be at my house in a few days but the controller wouldn’t arrive until August 4th to the 14th, with our baby due mid august I’d rather have it quicker than that. Again, thank you everyone for all the work put into this project!!!

Very nice, glad to hear another feeder will soon come to life. :)

I have used these controllers with success, and the small electronics box is actually designed around it.
https://www.amazon.com/Onyehn-Voltage-Controller-1803BK-Adjustable/dp/B08XQ22F47/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=1.8v+3v+5v+6v+7.2v+12v+2A+30W+Low+Voltage +DC+Motor+Speed+Controller+PWM+1803BK+1803B+Adjust able&qid=1626811625&sr=8-3

[Enehmee]

Very nice, glad to hear another feeder will soon come to life. :)

I have used these controllers with success, and the small electronics box is actually designed around it.
https://www.amazon.com/Onyehn-Voltage-Controller-1803BK-Adjustable/dp/B08XQ22F47/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=1.8v+3v+5v+6v+7.2v+12v+2A+30W+Low+Voltage +DC+Motor+Speed+Controller+PWM+1803BK+1803B+Adjust able&qid=1626811625&sr=8-3

Perfect, that’s the box I printed too. Thanks for getting back to me. Got it on order, I’ll post some pics once I get this thing runnin 👍🏼

[wbbh]

Very nice, glad to hear another feeder will soon come to life. :)

I have used these controllers with success, and the small electronics box is actually designed around it.
https://www.amazon.com/Onyehn-Voltage-Controller-1803BK-Adjustable/dp/B08XQ22F47/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=1.8v+3v+5v+6v+7.2v+12v+2A+30W+Low+Voltage +DC+Motor+Speed+Controller+PWM+1803BK+1803B+Adjust able&qid=1626811625&sr=8-3


Perfect, that’s the box I printed too. Thanks for getting back to me. Got it on order, I’ll post some pics once I get this thing runnin ����

Make that two thanks, I chose to print the smaller box too.

[TylerR]

Make that two thanks, I chose to print the smaller box too.

Excellent. I would encourage both of you to post pics/video once you are up and running if you don't mind. It helps other people down the line.

[TylerR]

Just want to let everyone know the project will be maintained on github from here on out.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder

[wbbh]

How important is the "wall" setting? The Creality software doesn't have a setting for that that I can find.

I got the files downloaded, the project file collection created and after a couple of false starts I've got the Ender 5 printing away. I got stopped by Cura when it came to slicing the Main Body, it kept giving me errors about being too large to print. I Googled it, fiddled with he printer settings and then installed the Creality Slicer application, no problems, print file created. The Creality software wants to print a raft(?) under the parts, but it breaks off easily. The only setting I could not fine in the Creality application was the "wall" number from the collator manual.

[TylerR]

How important is the "wall" setting? The Creality software doesn't have a setting for that that I can find.

I got the files downloaded, the project file collection created and after a couple of false starts I've got the Ender 5 printing away. I got stopped by Cura when it came to slicing the Main Body, it kept giving me errors about being too large to print. I Googled it, fiddled with he printer settings and then installed the Creality Slicer application, no problems, print file created. The Creality software wants to print a raft(?) under the parts, but it breaks off easily. The only setting I could not fine in the Creality application was the "wall" number from the collator manual.

Wall setting is very important. Infil percentage is what usually what people think of when trying to make parts strong, but wall thickness is just as, if not more important. Standard print settings for me is 2 walls .8mm thick each. so 1.6mm total. For stronger parts I will usually go up to 4.

Cura was telling you the body would not fit because either raft or brim is turned on by default. If you go down to the "Build Plate Adhesion" section you should see it there, and set it to "None".

[wbbh]

Wall setting is very important. Infil percentage is what usually what people think of when trying to make parts strong, but wall thickness is just, as if not more, important. Standard print settings for me is 2 walls .8mm thick each. so 1.6mm total. For stronger parts I will usually go up to 4.

Cura was telling you the body would not fit because either raft or brim is turned on by default. If you go down to the "Build Plate Adhesion" section you should see it there, and set it to "None".

Bingo! Thank you very much. Looks like I'll have some "spare" printed parts.

[TylerR]

Bingo! Thank you very much. Looks like I'll have some "spare" printed parts.

At least you don't have a part graveyard yet. I think mine would rival most.

[GWS]

So if your walls are .8mm thick...does that mean you are using a .8 nozzle....or are you squeezing .8 out of a .4 nozzle. I get to thinking I've got this all figured out until the next print screws up. I've done quite well up to now, but tonight I was trying to print some APP parts and I had my first spaghetti experience.....must have an adhesion problem again. I changed the reel of PLA back to another brand I've used successfully before (Overture black PLA+) and most likely I forgot the settings I used with it. Feeling extra dumb today. ;)

I don't think I've ever set walls wider than .45.

[wbbh]

At least you don't have a part graveyard yet. I think mine would rival most.

The price of knowledge, which we thank you for sharing. I just hope my collection never weighs as much as my box of reloading screwups, crushed cases, loads, etc. :-(

[TylerR]

So if your walls are .8mm thick...does that mean you are using a .8 nozzle....or are you squeezing .8 out of a .4 nozzle. I get to thinking I've got this all figured out until the next print screws up. I've done quite well up to now, but tonight I was trying to print some APP parts and I had my first spaghetti experience.....must have an adhesion problem again. I changed the reel of PLA back to another brand I've used successfully before (Overture black PLA+) and most likely I forgot the settings I used with it. Feeling extra dumb today. ;)

I don't think I've ever set walls wider than .45.

I was going to specify that but did not want it to make it any more confusing. I am using a .4mm nozzle (have never used anything else), so technically my 2 walls is 4 passes of the extruder. 4 walls is 8, etc.....

[TylerR]

So if your walls are .8mm thick...does that mean you are using a .8 nozzle....or are you squeezing .8 out of a .4 nozzle. I get to thinking I've got this all figured out until the next print screws up. I've done quite well up to now, but tonight I was trying to print some APP parts and I had my first spaghetti experience.....must have an adhesion problem again. I changed the reel of PLA back to another brand I've used successfully before (Overture black PLA+) and most likely I forgot the settings I used with it. Feeling extra dumb today. ;)

I don't think I've ever set walls wider than .45.

Just wanted to say one other thing here my friend. I have been printing for 7+ years now, and one thing I know is that over time the print bed will move away from the nozzle. Don't ask me why. If it has been awhile make sure you re-level that bed.

[GWS]

Just wanted to say one other thing here my friend. I have been printing for 7+ years now, and one thing I know is that over time the print bed will move away from the nozzle. Don't ask me why. If it has been awhile make sure you re-level that bed.

Interesting....even with an autoleveler like EZABL pro? I'm also wondering if my nozzle is shot or clogged.....it doesn't act right.....today is take it all apart day....oh well, every day can't be fun. ;)

[TylerR]

Interesting....even with an autoleveler like EZABL pro? I'm also wondering if my nozzle is shot or clogged.....it doesn't act right.....today is take it all apart day....oh well, every day can't be fun. ;)

I'll be honest, I have BLTouch on my E5+ and I don't even really use it. I just find manual leveling to be so easy I don't bother with it. I adjust my bed about once every 3 months.

[TylerR]

So after saying that, I decided to go down and do some more playing around with BLtouch. Figure I have it I should probably use it. Started by doing another manual level, then ran an auto level mesh from the printer. Also played around with the Bed Visualizer plugin on Octoprint. Eventually got it to where I liked it.

Added the M420 S1 code to the Gcode start scripts in Octoprint and did some test prints. I could confirm the auto leveling was working by holding on to the the z axes screw while it was printing. Definitely was making micro adjustments as the layer was printing. Pretty cool stuff. I will still plan on doing a manual level once in while to account for changes.

[Rcmaveric]

I am horrible at manually leveling a bed. Creality had a sale last week for 50% off an a Ender 5 got a plane ride to my house. Ordered a BLTouch but thats comeing from China. In the mean time the struggle is real. Use a post it note. Tram it all out to a hard scratch and first layer does not adhear... cuss and adjust bed on the fly. Need to check my z off set. Did not put on in but never know.

You can save filament profiles and slicer settings.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

I am horrible at manually leveling a bed. Creality had a sale last week for 50% off an a Ender 5 got a plane ride to my house. Ordered a BLTouch but thats comeing from China. In the mean time the struggle is real. Use a post it note. Tram it all out to a hard scratch and first layer does not adhear... cuss and adjust bed on the fly. Need to check my z off set. Did not put on in but never know.

You can save filament profiles and slicer settings.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

I would have never achieved what I have without babystepping Z offset most prints. Critical when you change filaments. That's the reason I have a skirt around the model. With Tyler's recommended pre-sanded polypropylene bed I never have to use anything else. I babystep the z offset while it prints the skirt. Two buts......1. small round parts where there's not much of a skirt (no time to adjust) and you can't see the skirt anyway with the nozzle apparatus always over it.) and 2. what I'm dealing with this week.....clogged up tube and nozzle, maybe from moisture, too much retraction, or who knows....worn out nozzle?

A lot I still don't know or comprehend.

[Rcmaveric]

I had clogging issues printing PTEG. The extra heat would degrade my cheap Creality PTFE tube. I went with all metal hotends. I have the Bigtreetech and Gulf Coast Robotics ones. Works great. They just run a little when heating up. The beginning gcode wipes the nozzle before printing so it isnt an issue just an annoyance.

If your haveing clogging problems check your PTFE tube inside the hotend. Even if you have the Creality hot end fix.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[CS223]

I’m having a little difficulty with overhang in the bullet drop die where the ball bearings go. Any suggestions on improving the accuracy in the print? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210723/638a87c3cbe30bb46e33cca263ebe4ca.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210723/5282f6f1381cbdda7ebcb50a81324adb.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GWS]

You can save filament profiles and slicer settings.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

I know that part....but if you are as dumb as me you save and realize you didn't save to a new file.....so the last one is gone. doh....

[TylerR]

I’m having a little difficulty with overhang in the bullet drop die where the ball bearings go. Any suggestions on improving the accuracy in the print.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are your print settings? Should be using a .4mm nozzle printing with .12mm layers.

[CS223]

What are your print settings? Should be using a .4mm nozzle printing with .12mm layers.

That’s what I’m using per the pdf from the configurator, 2 walls 20% fill. PLA+ @ 200C the rest of it is beautiful, no interference between the two parts. Bottoms of the holes look fine. I’m wondering if I should reduce the bridge flow rate and or add support to the holes. Ignore the flash from the brim, they just came off the printer. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210724/477fc0a84b59ed8a5c90e6e467e8cae2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

That’s what I’m using per the pdf from the configurator, 2 walls 20% fill. PLA+ @ 200C the rest of it is beautiful, no interference between the two parts. Bottoms of the holes look fine. I’m wondering if I should reduce the bridge flow rate and or add support to the holes. Ignore the flash from the brim, they just came off the printer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only other thing I can think of is the slicer settings. What slicer are you using?

[Rcmaveric]

Part cooling?

Or use tree supports.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[CS223]

The only other thing I can think of is the slicer settings. What slicer are you using?

I’m using PrusaSlicer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CS223]

Part cooling?

Or use tree supports.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

I can generate support for bridges and if I slice doing so, it does add support to the holes. Part cooling is at 100% fan speed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rcmaveric]

I dont have experience with Prusa Slicer. I have tried Slic3r and didn't like it. It probably just needed to he calibrated and tuned. I use Cura and it just plane works from the get go.

Slic3r is nice because it can explode multipart stls. So there is that benefit.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[CS223]

I dont have experience with Prusa Slicer. I have tried Slic3r and didn't like it. It probably just needed to he calibrated and tuned. I use Cura and it just plane works from the get go.

Slic3r is nice because it can explode multipart stls. So there is that benefit.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

PrusaSlicer is just a version of Slic3r. As for Cura, I have to use an old version as for some reason later versions result in poor print quality with my f/w. I’ve wasted countless hours with Cura chasing print quality issues. I’ve sliced the part with both and looked layer by layer and the tool path appears the same around the ball area in both Cura and P/S. I may just create a ball bearing test model to print so I can try different settings without printing the die over & over. It’s printing on an Ender 5 FWIW. I’m thinking it’s a matter of tuning the bridging settings.

It also appears in the bullet slides.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210724/9f1f420e176bb8cfc7b7553850b4533e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vorga]

TylerR... Thank you for all the time you invested into this . You have brought this a long way . I am about 80% done so far . I will post pics/vids once done . I am building the latest ver of this as i pulled the files off the GitHub page .286599286600286598

[TylerR]

TylerR... Thank you for all the time you invested into this . You have brought this a long way . I am about 80% done so far . I will post pics/vids once done . I am building the latest ver of this as i pulled the files off the wiki page .

That looks really good! Nice to see the latest version out there.

[Vorga]

Thank you .. I seem to be having trouble finding the spring tube adapters in the file pack off the GitHub ? The Parts generator also locks up if i select any spring tube ?

[TylerR]

Thank you .. I seem to be having trouble finding the spring tube adapters in the file pack off the GitHub ? The Parts generator also locks up if i select any spring tube ?


So apparently when I went to upload the files I didn’t notice they were too large for Github so they were rejected. I am going to have to re-render them to be smaller and repost. I will do that once I get home.

Thank you for pointing this out!

[TylerR]

Ok all of the spring adapters are up there now.

[Vorga]

Thank you . Printing the spring adapters now. The rest of the parts should be delivered today . Then i can start wiring it all together and the fun will really start from there .

[Falconpunch]

Sorry for this question that probably has been asked many times, I was not able to find it in the search. Is the only way to run the JGY motor is using the 8mm hex coupler? Wondering if something can be printed out so I could use it today, shaft looks to low to pin it. Haven't been on in awhile and like the new clutch plates, my Grainger motor would bend my pins easily on a jam.

[Enehmee]

Created a new wiring diagram for the Prox switch setup, I got a little confused with the one in the manual so I figured I'd make one while I wait for my double mount to finish printing!

286688

[TylerR]

Sorry for this question that probably has been asked many times, I was not able to find it in the search. Is the only way to run the JGY motor is using the 8mm hex coupler? Wondering if something can be printed out so I could use it today, shaft looks to low to pin it. Haven't been on in awhile and like the new clutch plates, my Grainger motor would bend my pins easily on a jam.

There are ways in theory, but what has been shown to be the easiest is the hex coupler. I don't run JGY motors as there are just better options for a few more bucks.

[TylerR]

Created a new wiring diagram for the Prox switch setup, I got a little confused with the one in the manual so I figured I'd make one while I wait for my double mount to finish printing!

286688

Can this be posted in a larger format?

[Enehmee]

http://i.imgur.com/0aBOjkq.png?1 (https://imgur.com/0aBOjkq)

got it figured out I think :D

[Enehmee]

Does anyone know if you can run a prox switch on one collator (bullet feeder) and a micro switch on a second (casefeeder), using only one power supply?

[TylerR]

Does anyone know if you can run a prox switch on one collator (bullet feeder) and a micro switch on a second (casefeeder), using only one power supply?

No issue with splitting the power supply to two collators, but you have to make sure you have the proper amperage if running both at the same time. 5-6 amps would be plenty.

[Vorga]

It lives :) .I only have had a chance to test brass and it does just what it was intended to . Bonus all brass in the right direction .. Great job on the install pack made this so easy The instructions were spot on ..

[TylerR]

It lives :) .I only have had a chance to test brass and it does just what it was intended to . Bonus all brass in the right direction .. Great job on the install pack made this so easy The instructions were spot on ..

Nice clean wiring job, and I love the pvc mounting tube. The only thing I am not seeing is the adjustment thumb screw for the brass slide plate.

286778

[Vorga]

Missed the set screw.. just tapped the hole and ran a screw. tks for catching that . I am having trouble with my lee 309 230gn like you have in your vids . when i try to use the adapter in the spring clapper . the 230s get hung up and the plate stops also the ones that do get past the flapper adapter part do not flip they just fall into the slide tray . This is top facing up slide plate . my 230s might be different mine look like they will accept a gas ck . I am wondering if that is why they are not doing the flip
286792

[TylerR]

Missed the set screw.. just tapped the hole and ran a screw. tks for catching that . I am having trouble with my lee 309 230gn like you have in your vids . when i try to use the adapter in the spring clapper . the 230s get hung up and the plate stops also the ones that do get past the flapper adapter part do not flip they just fall into the slide tray . This is top facing up slide plate . my 230s might be different mine look like they will accept a gas ck . I am wondering if that is why they are not doing the flip


Can you post a quick video of the problem?

[Vorga]

Sorry site is not letting me upload a video . They are tiny way under the 10meg limit . I posted them over at the facebook page .

[TylerR]

Sorry site is not letting me upload a video . They are tiny way under the 10meg limit . I posted them over at the facebook page .

I am sorry I don't facebook. You can email them to me if you like. PM sent.

[TylerR]

OK after watching your videos I see 3 main thing that need to change.

-You are using the Sweeper_Long, which is for rifle brass. You need to be using the regular Sweeper. If you look at my video again you will see the one I am using.

-You have the slide plate pulled out. This may appear to help with base down boolits not accidentally falling down when the feeder angle is too shallow, but it causes a host of other issues. Push the slide plate all the way in and use the slide plate latch to lock it in.

-You have too little angle on the collator. This is why you had to pull the slide plate out. You want the angle to be fairly steep so that gravity pushes the boolits back in the plate preventing them from falling off the ridge unless they are supposed to (nose down). Experiment with angles 50-60% steep.

Try those out, and if issues persist feel free to send me more videos.

[Vorga]

Oh i did not see the 2nd sweeper in the main body pack . But now that you said something i see it now . I was thinking it was a part that was redone after your vids . Thank you TylerR

[TylerR]

Oh i did not see the 2nd sweeper in the main body pack . But now that you said something i see it now . I was thinking it was a part that was redone after your vids . Thank you TylerR

You bet. Let us know how you make out with it.

[Charlie_Sweden]

My collator for 9mm works like a charm, thanks again for all your effort.

I printed another collator for feeding my LEE APP with brass to be deprimed, i run .32S&W Long and printed APP_Brass_Insert_32.stl only to realise that the cases dont fit (i guess it's designed for .32ACP?). Would it be possible to create an insert that works with .32S&W Long?

[TylerR]

My collator for 9mm works like a charm, thanks again for all your effort.

I printed another collator for feeding my LEE APP with brass to be deprimed, i run .32S&W Long and printed APP_Brass_Insert_32.stl only to realise that the cases dont fit (i guess it's designed for .32ACP?). Would it be possible to create an insert that works with .32S&W Long?

Sure it would. give me a bit to look up the specs and I will post something.

[TylerR]

Just to confirm, the diameter is ok for the case, its the length that is the issue?

[Charlie_Sweden]

The base of the case does not fit the diameter. Hold on, i'll get you a picture and some measurements.

[Charlie_Sweden]

The base diameter measures 0.369in and the case length is 0.911in.
286832
286833

[Charlie_Sweden]

I've been working on a plate and some other things to be able to collate hollowbase wadcutters, it's not entirely my idea, i just made 3d designs for the concept. It's working pretty well, there are some things that need tweaking. for example the slideplate (for brass) might need adjusting as the bullets sometimes get stuck and pile up. And the .32 dropper needs to be 2.58mm longer to reliably drop the wadcutterbullet and stop the next.

I'd be happy to share the fusion files with you TylerR if you're interested.


https://youtu.be/LnfH-uZsOPo


https://youtu.be/gqGkG7hcpRQ

286835

286836

286834

[TylerR]

The base diameter measures 0.369in and the case length is 0.911in.


Sorry took me so long. Very busy. Here is the insert. Please let me know if it works or needs adjustment.

286929

[TylerR]

I've been working on a plate and some other things to be able to collate hollowbase wadcutters, it's not entirely my idea, i just made 3d designs for the concept. It's working pretty well, there are some things that need tweaking. for example the slideplate (for brass) might need adjusting as the bullets sometimes get stuck and pile up. And the .32 dropper needs to be 2.58mm longer to reliably drop the wadcutterbullet and stop the next.

I'd be happy to share the fusion files with you TylerR if you're interested.



wait are these boolits made from brass?

[Charlie_Sweden]

wait are these boolits made from brass?

It's these: https://www.hn-sport.de/en/reloading/wc-hb-314-100-gr-hs
(Lead with copper-plating).

[Charlie_Sweden]

Sorry took me so long. Very busy. Here is the insert. Please let me know if it works or needs adjustment.

286929

No need to apologize at all. I'm very thankful for your help. Printing it now and will test in a couple of hours, I'll report back. :)

[Charlie_Sweden]

Sorry took me so long. Very busy. Here is the insert. Please let me know if it works or needs adjustment.

286929

It didn’t quite work, needs to come down a bit. My guess is about 0.435in more. And it seems a bit thick, hard to seat it in the holder. When i measure it against my other inserts it’s 0,011in thicker i diameter. So if you could make it around 0,641in diameter, that would probably work.

Thanks again!

[TylerR]

It didn’t quite work, needs to come down a bit. My guess is about 0.435in more. And it seems a bit thick, hard to seat it in the holder. When i measure it against my other inserts it’s 0,011in thicker i diameter. So if you could make it around 0,641in diameter, that would probably work.

Thanks again!

I am confused. I made it shorter by 5mm to accommodate the .32SW case, which is a bit less then 24mm long. The formula for the length is 70mm-case length (24mm). Which is 46mm. But you are saying lengthen it by .435in, which would be almost 6mm longer then the original .32acp insert. Something is not making sense.

As far as width, all of the inserts are 16.4mm OD. This new one is the same. I did open the ID to 10.4mm.

[Cast_Iron_Pancakes]

Apologies if this has been discussed but I've not found it. How long should the Parts Generator Take? I have made appropriate selections, made sure a Project folder was chosen and pressed play and while it creates a Parts.zip file, it's a 0 byte file and never seems to change. I've waited over an hour more than once, hoping it was a glitch but no joy as of yet. If it's something simple and stupid I should be doing, I'm ok with that, just need to know what "that" is...

[Vorga]

Apologies if this has been discussed but I've not found it. How long should the Parts Generator Take? I have made appropriate selections, made sure a Project folder was chosen and pressed play and while it creates a Parts.zip file, it's a 0 byte file and never seems to change. I've waited over an hour more than once, hoping it was a glitch but no joy as of yet. If it's something simple and stupid I should be doing, I'm ok with that, just need to know what "that" is...

When i was using the generator if i checked any the the 3 things i have checked in the pic the generator froze up i had to leave them unchecked and grab the stl's from the main folders manually. i also needed to install openSCAD


286959

[Cast_Iron_Pancakes]

Trying that right now. About how long should it take to complete?

[TylerR]

When i was using the generator if i checked any the the 3 things i have checked in the pic the generator froze up i had to leave them unchecked and grab the stl's from the main folders manually. i also needed to install openSCAD


286959

There was an issue with some spring adapter files missing. That has been addressed in the latest on github. Also just tested this and its working for me.

[TylerR]

Trying that right now. About how long should it take to complete?

Not more then 10 seconds or so.

[Cast_Iron_Pancakes]

Using the latest from Github, not sure where the disconnect is but I'll try a few more things. Or quit being lazy and just select them manually... :)

Edit: Handled. Blocked file, which would let it start and run enough to create the initial zip but not write to it after that. :killingpc

[dverna]

Your learned opinions please...

I am looking at adding a Mr. Bullet Feeder to a Dillon 1050 and possibly a Star sizer. If you only needed one unit, would you invest in a 3D set up to make it, or buy the commercial unit? I can get the feeder and point down conversion for less than $600.

I am not a tinkerer. Will be using 125 gr RNFP-158 gr SWC gr .38 cal cast bullets and 122 gr 9mm cast bullets.

[Cast_Iron_Pancakes]

Your learned opinions please...

I am looking at adding a Mr. Bullet Feeder to a Dillon 1050 and possibly a Star sizer. If you only needed one unit, would you invest in a 3D set up to make it, or buy the commercial unit? I can get the feeder and point down conversion for less than $600.

I am not a tinkerer. Will be using 125 gr RNFP-158 gr SWC gr .38 cal cast bullets and 122 gr 9mm cast bullets.

Buy. While the 3D printed items I've used all work very well, they generally take a little finessing to get "just right".

[TylerR]

Buy. While the 3D printed items I've used all work very well, they generally take a little finessing to get "just right".

Get the 3d setup and print. It's so easy a caveman can do it. And then you can print all kinds of other cool things.

[Cast_Iron_Pancakes]

I already 3D print, but unlike the person who posed the question, I am a tinkerer. I like making things work right. Some don't.

I suppose there's an argument to be made that if you're reloading you've already shown that you're willing to Build-Check-Test-Fix-Repeat until you get where you need to be, but that wasn't my takeaway from his query. YMMV.

[TylerR]

I already 3D print, but unlike the person who posed the question, I am a tinkerer. I like making things work right. Some don't.

I suppose there's an argument to be made that if you're reloading you've already shown that you're willing to Build-Check-Test-Fix-Repeat until you get where you need to be, but that wasn't my takeaway from his query. YMMV.

Sorry I meant to quote him, not you.
I don't disagree with you. just wanted to give him both sides of the equation. Obviously I am biased towards printing my own project. :-)

[GWS]

I just got through helping my brother set up a Mr. Bullet Feeder for his D. 650. If you think it's a plug-in tool with no tweaking, trial and error, or effort you will be disappointed. I think that goes for any tool you use for progressive presses, and progressive presses themselves.....including the Dillon 1050.

If you don't mind spending that much money, go for it......but don't expect it to be a can opener in simplicity, even preset up for one caliber. Pay attention to details for all of the above....or you have bumps.

The home-build 3D printed stuff is just as good, but the above applies to them too.

It's just that a 3D printer is money spent on a much more versatile tool, that when bought and learned can produce a lot of tools, not just bullet feeders, and other useful things that make you smile, and once I bought and learned, I made 2 bullet feeders and a case feeder, and several other reloading tools, plus stuff for my wife, for my car, and even a wearable Clone Wars helmet for one grandson, a T-Rex skull for another.....For the money I'd have spend on one Mr. Bullet Feeder and caliber conversion kits. Wasn't that hard to learn either....and I just celebrated in July the 1st anniversary of the purchase. The plastic media is cheap too! All that said, keep in mind, 3-D printer isn't for the impatient ..... but for me it's a fun way to keep this 70 plus soon to retire gent, busy.

[dverna]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen.

I am a little more technical than a caveman...lol. Engineer with a half dozen patents....but when I see guys who know what they are doing taking over 200 pages to date...well it seems a bit more involved.

What machine would you folks recommend and what add ons are needed.

I am OK with it taking 24 hours to print stuff. I am not OK with taking three attempts to print out a workable piece, or it being so fragile it needs to be replaced every 30k rounds.

[dverna]

I just got through helping my brother set up a Mr. Bullet Feeder for his D. 650. If you think it's a plug-in tool with no tweaking, trial and error, or effort you will be disappointed. I think that goes for any tool you use for progressive presses, and progressive presses themselves.....including the Dillon 1050.

If you don't mind spending that much money, go for it......but don't expect it to be a can opener in simplicity, even preset up for one caliber. Pay attention to details for all of the above....or you have bumps.

The home-build 3D printed stuff is just as good, but the above applies to them too.

It's just that a 3D printer is money spent on a much more versatile tool, that when bought and learned can produce a lot of tools, not just bullet feeders, and other useful things that make you smile, and once I bought and learned, I made 2 bullet feeders and a case feeder, and several other reloading tools, plus stuff for my wife, for my car, and even a wearable Clone Wars helmet for one grandson, a T-Rex skull for another.....For the money I'd have spend on one Mr. Bullet Feeder and caliber conversion kits. Wasn't that hard to learn either....and I just celebrated in July the 1st anniversary of the purchase. The plastic media is cheap too! All that said, keep in mind, 3-D printer isn't for the impatient ..... but for me it's a fun way to keep this 70 plus soon to retire gent, busy.

I have owned and used all the Dillon machines and find them easy to use with minimal tweaking. Nothing like Lee progressives which I would class as marginal or worse.

Without meaning to be offensive, why would your brother invest in a Mr Bulletfeeder when you can produce a cheaper unit that is just as good? Your post has raised a red flag wrt to homemade vs a commercial product.

[TylerR]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen.

I am a little more technical than a caveman...lol. Engineer with a half dozen patents....but when I see guys who know what they are doing taking over 200 pages to date...well it seems a bit more involved.

What machine would you folks recommend and what add ons are needed.

I am OK with it taking 24 hours to print stuff. I am not OK with taking three attempts to print out a workable piece, or it being so fragile it needs to be replaced every 30k rounds.

There is absolutely no question you would pick up 3d printing easily. As far as which printer to get, you are going to get lots of different answers, but I really enjoy my Ender 5 and 5plus. The only add ons I have for both is a poly build plate.

Edited to add, there is nothing fragile about a 3d printed collator. It is designed to last. If anything is going to go after 30k rounds it would be the motor or electronics, but that is true for a factory feeder as well.

[CS223]

I downloaded the latest file from the Git and the Project Generator is hanging up on Adding: Drop_Tube_10mm.stl

Another side note, I haven’t been able
to get the project generator to work in MacOS. Running the latest Java.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GWS]

I have owned and used all the Dillon machines and find them easy to use with minimal tweaking. Nothing like Lee progressives which I would class as marginal or worse.

Without meaning to be offensive, why would your brother invest in a Mr Bulletfeeder when you can produce a cheaper unit that is just as good? Your post has raised a red flag wrt to homemade vs a commercial product.

Not offended.....smiling a little.....understanding your concern.

I own, with another brother, a design/build contruction company. I'm the design/finish side of it..... except that I spent my fair share the last 50 years getting projects out of the ground too after making 10 to 20 pages of Autocad Drawings for each of them.... My other brother chose medicine for a career (smarter for sure)....becoming an ER Doc and also now owns an Urgent Care business on the side. He bought a Dillon 650 3 years ago, and just last month asked me to help him set it up and teach him how to reload. He bought the bullet feeder because it's in the Dillon catalog and he knows nothing about 3d printers. As a novice, he naturally assumed the M.B.F. was the safer easier choice....and I don't fault that. He's used to putting people back together not tweaking machines or tools, but he'll get there.....

I will add that he wasn't real keen with the price of changing calibers.....so I suggested we could print a plate for his rifle on my printer, for about $8 worth of plastic and collate more than his 9mm.....he jumped on that possibility. (he will probably still buy a feed die) Me and 3D printed feed dies haven't made an acquaintance yet.....but I plan to check them out too. I use the new RCBS rifle feed dies and old Hornady pistol feed dies bought before M.B.F. started selling them separate.

I don't use Lee or Dillon.....except that I bought a Lee APP case processor, and Love it. Otherwise my presses are all green....Rock Chucker, Summit, Pro 2000, and Pro Chucker 7.....and while my progressives are less sage than Dillons, I like them for their fast caliber changes and the ability to use fewer powder measures. I think Dillons are fine presses.....just prefer what I have. After running his 650, I'm not seeing much difference excepting the powder measure. I do like having 7 stations, but still concede that RCBS has had less time to perfect it.... it works fine with minor tweaking....

The M.B.F. plates are strong and heavy....plastic but feel like metal. I didn't see a clutch system, but maybe it's in the motor? If not then that's why the plates are strong and heavy....to keep the motors from ripping them apart when there's a bind. (bullets are prone to that....don't care what design you have. With a clutch the plate stops, but the center keeps moving until you find the offending bind, then it continues. If no clutch you try to turn it off before something bad happens.

I print plates with like 18 percent in fill.....so that makes them light weight, but I never noticed any wearing. A few people have printed them solid. Makes them heavier for sure, but also prints in days not the eight hours mine print, and I find that unnecessary.

The printer I bought was a Creality CR-10 V2., because it had a reasonable price and a larger bed than most. There are even larger beds....TylerR added a new model with an even larger based Creality (thinking Ender 5+), and he designed his larger "Mondo" model of collator around it for to print larger rifle case feeders the size of Dillon's. My case feeder is the size of his original Bullet feeder base, and I find it works fine for anything up to .308. M.B.F. doesn't make case feeders, but then you probably have Dillon's case feeder already, since Dillon's 650 design is a PIA without one, requiring case feeding and press stroking with the same arm. Nothing wrong with Dillon's case feeder if you have one....just not as inexpensive as printed ones.

Not everyone wants to spend a lot of money on Feeders.....and more than a few like to build things themselves, and choosing to spend a $500 bill on a 3D Printer, means I'm not limited to just enjoying 1 bullet feeder with several caliber change kits for the money.

[TylerR]

I downloaded the latest file from the Git and the Project Generator is hanging up on Adding: Drop_Tube_10mm.stl

Another side note, I haven’t been able
to get the project generator to work in MacOS. Running the latest Java.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just downloaded the v1.4.6.2 from github and unzipped it to new directory. Ran parts generator and it found the 10mm drop tube no problem. Can you post a screenshot of everything you selected in the generator?

[Charlie_Sweden]

I am confused. I made it shorter by 5mm to accommodate the .32SW case, which is a bit less then 24mm long. The formula for the length is 70mm-case length (24mm). Which is 46mm. But you are saying lengthen it by .435in, which would be almost 6mm longer then the original .32acp insert. Something is not making sense.

As far as width, all of the inserts are 16.4mm OD. This new one is the same. I did open the ID to 10.4mm.

That seems odd, as that’s not how it printed. I’ll have to doublecheck if I made a mistake printing it.
I’ll get back to you. Thanks!

[CS223]

The lock up problem appears to be caused by the selection of the 9mm Bullet Feed Dies. I figured out that I didn't need the APP parts, and re-ran the generator without the APP stuff selected and it still locks up. ETA: It apparently doesn't follow the 9mm Die selections as the culprit.
286997286998

Here are two more screen shots of it locking up.

287000287001

[TylerR]

The lock up problem appears to be caused by the selection of the 9mm Bullet Feed Dies. I figured out that I didn't need the APP parts, and re-ran the generator without the APP stuff selected and it still locks up. ETA: It apparently doesn't follow the 9mm Die selections as the culprit.

Here are two more screen shots of it locking up.


Bingo, that helped. Github has been updated.

[CS223]

Almost.....
287003

[TylerR]

Almost.....


No issues on my end. As a test, I also selected every part on the page and it ran fine. How are you downloading from github?

287006

[CS223]

I'm subscribed to the Git so I get an email when its updated. I've been following the email link and downloading the source code.zip file here:
287009

I deleted everything and downloaded the zip file from this screen and it works as it should.
287010

[TylerR]

Older links have been removed.

[Cast_Iron_Pancakes]

Mine won't complete if I select "Clutch Cover" but works fine with the rest (Note I have not tried any of the APP selections). I just grabbed those manually.

[r4ndy]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen.

I am a little more technical than a caveman...lol. Engineer with a half dozen patents....but when I see guys who know what they are doing taking over 200 pages to date...well it seems a bit more involved.

What machine would you folks recommend and what add ons are needed.

I am OK with it taking 24 hours to print stuff. I am not OK with taking three attempts to print out a workable piece, or it being so fragile it needs to be replaced every 30k rounds.

For a simple single caliber setup setting up a feeder is straightforward with the awesome instructions and design this crew has put together. Getting good prints is a bit of a time investment if new to 3d printing, but also not really difficult for someone with attention to detail. Also I like a glass bed but others use something different. Once you have the printer humming it should print consistently for all the parts. Also a rudimentary understanding of wiring and ideally soldering is needed for a nice clean build.

If willing to spend a few more bucks I would get the ender 5 pro or plus and an enclosure. There are a few parts to print for bed and wire strain relief for the printer. The enclosure takes the variable of room temp/drafts out of the printing equation. I would also get a raspberry pi, wifi plug and camera to monitor your prints and kill the machine if necessary during the longer prints if you aren’t home.

All the pages are continued improvements and variations. I built a set for a friend with nose/up down bullets in four caliber and four brass down options and a set off app parts for four calibers - it took a while to print that many different options, but I had no fails on an Ender 5 pro.

I will say don’t go cheap on the printer. I first built an AmmoMike collator with an Anet A8. The printer worked, but required more upgrades and tweaking then my old Lee pro and now it sits in the corner, I don’t even want to give it to someone as it is such a hassle to keep running properly.

For what you are looking for I would suggest printing if you have any inkling you will use the printer once this project is complete.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Charlie_Sweden]

I am confused. I made it shorter by 5mm to accommodate the .32SW case, which is a bit less then 24mm long. The formula for the length is 70mm-case length (24mm). Which is 46mm. But you are saying lengthen it by .435in, which would be almost 6mm longer then the original .32acp insert. Something is not making sense.

As far as width, all of the inserts are 16.4mm OD. This new one is the same. I did open the ID to 10.4mm.

I'm also a bit confused, it is 46mm long, but when compared to a 9mm insert and case it doesn't look right. Something is wrong.
See picture.

287092
287093

Sorry for mixing units, I should stick to mm. :-)

[TylerR]

I'm also a bit confused, it is 46mm long, but when compared to a 9mm insert and case it doesn't look right. Something is wrong.
See picture.

Sorry for mixing units, I should stick to mm. :-)

I see what is going on. This is a result of my hard drive crashing a few months back, and me losing some of my source files. I was working off an older version where the bracket was shorter by 10mm.

I think this one should do it.
287103

[Charlie_Sweden]

I see what is going on. This is a result of my hard drive crashing a few months back, and me losing some of my source files. I was working off an older version where the bracket was shorter by 10mm.

I think this one should do it.
287103

This one printed correctly and worked perfectly. Thank you!

[Charlie_Sweden]

TylerR, could I ask you for another favor? The feed_die_32_insert, could you extend the bottompart with 2.58mm as shown by the picture below, then I think it would work with Hollowbase wadcutters in .32S&W Long caliber. (leave the holes where they are, and add some length, so the steelballs fit between the bullets)

Thanks again!

287140
287142

[wbbh]

Excellent. I would encourage both of you to post pics/video once you are up and running if you don't mind. It helps other people down the line.

Success!

Got the parts printed and assembled but the plate kept jamming until I realized I had the side plate in backyard. Doh!


https://youtu.be/Sbx6oDoYCdM

I've since made some better looking parts using Sunllu filaments. My Ender 5 seems to do better with that filament and the settings from y'all. I did try some clear Oveture and it was a disaster, but would probably be fine with adjustments. I went back to the Sunlu, I want to build collators for two presses, a brass decapping station and some fellow handloaders.

I cannot thank y'all enough for getting me started in 3D printing.

[Jackbrush]

I have an ender 3 220x220 x and y build plate and I cannot fit the main body in cura without turning it 90 degrees, in the readme it states you need at least a 210 x 210. If I increase my build plate size in my printer profile to 230x230 it fits. Its not importing at more than 100% BTW. What am I doing wrong?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I have an ender 3 220x220 x and y build plate and I cannot fit the main body in cura without turning it 90 degrees, in the readme it states you need at least a 210 x 210. If I increase my build plate size in my printer profile to 230x230 it fits. Its not importing at more than 100% BTW. What am I doing wrong?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Turn off build plate adhesion.

[Jackbrush]

Damn that would do it

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[dverna]

I looked at a printer machine and it costs about $400. I assume another $50 for filament (not sure???) and $50 for others bits and pieces. So a total of $500. Does this sound about right?

At that cost I am leaning towards just buying:

https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mr-bulletfeeder

For about the same $$$.

If I still had the second 1050 I could save some $$$ but I only have one reloader that needs a bullet feeder.

[TylerR]

I looked at a printer machine and it costs about $400. I assume another $50 for filament (not sure???) and $50 for others bits and pieces. So a total of $500. Does this sound about right?

At that cost I am leaning towards just buying:

https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mr-bulletfeeder

For about the same $$$.

If I still had the second 1050 I could save some $$$ but I only have one reloader that needs a bullet feeder.

Sounds to me like you should go for the DAA.

[Jackbrush]

Printing is a cheap hobby. Ender 3s can be $200 and then $20 for a roll of filament. But it takes alot of work to calibrate the machine and just alot of time in general. Time is much more important than money. If all you want is a collator then forget it, but you're not thinking about the countless other stuff you can make with it.

Cant see the forest for the trees

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

TylerR, could I ask you for another favor? The feed_die_32_insert, could you extend the bottompart with 2.58mm as shown by the picture below, then I think it would work with Hollowbase wadcutters in .32S&W Long caliber. (leave the holes where they are, and add some length, so the steelballs fit between the bullets)

Thanks again!



Instead of adding length to the die, I would add another bearing hole further up.

[TylerR]

Success!

Got the parts printed and assembled but the plate kept jamming until I realized I had the side plate in backyard. Doh!

I've since made some better looking parts using Sunllu filaments. My Ender 5 seems to do better with that filament and the settings from y'all. I did try some clear Oveture and it was a disaster, but would probably be fine with adjustments. I went back to the Sunlu, I want to build collators for two presses, a brass decapping station and some fellow handloaders.

I cannot thank y'all enough for getting me started in 3D printing.

I am very glad to hear you got everything working, and appreciate the video.

[Charlie_Sweden]

Instead of adding length to the die, I would add another bearing hole further up.

That would work fine too. :-) as long as there is 2.58mm more space for the bullet. :-)

[TylerR]

That would work fine too. :-) as long as there is 2.58mm more space for the bullet. :-)

New version posted to github.

[Charlie_Sweden]

New version posted to github.

Works now, both with copperplated and lead wadcutters in .32SW Long. Thanks!


https://youtu.be/G241T7ASU2w

https://youtu.be/9eKR1CApmIA

[TylerR]

Works now, both with copperplated and lead wadcutters in .32SW Long. Thanks!


Woot!
I know this is a somewhat personal question, but are you actually in Sweden?

[Charlie_Sweden]

Woot!
I know this is a somewhat personal question, but are you actually in Sweden?

Yes, I'm Swedish and live in Sweden. :)

[GWS]

Well that accounts for your post at 3:17 AM here in New Mexico! Nice to have a little diversity here! And nice to know your gun rights are alive and well. Hope they are not under attack like they are here......and btw, I love the originality found in Swedish Jet Fighters!

I have a few grams of Swedish blood in my veins.....and Danish too.....back a few generations.....;) (along with English and Swiss) My sir-name came across the English channel with William the Conqueror's Army.

[Vorga]

Started a 2d feeder to match my lee setups .. Also trying the app parts in resin . They look really good

[Jackbrush]

Cool

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Started a 2d feeder to match my lee setups .. Also trying the app parts in resin . They look really good

Those things look like they are made out of jello :)

[Rcmaveric]

Started a 2d feeder to match my lee setups .. Also trying the app parts in resin . They look really goodIm jealous. I love that color. Which Resin Printer do you have?

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[Charlie_Sweden]

Well that accounts for your post at 3:17 AM here in New Mexico! Nice to have a little diversity here! And nice to know your gun rights are alive and well. Hope they are not under attack like they are here......and btw, I love the originality found in Swedish Jet Fighters!

I have a few grams of Swedish blood in my veins.....and Danish too.....back a few generations.....;) (along with English and Swiss) My sir-name came across the English channel with William the Conqueror's Army.

Hehe! Yes, there is quite the time difference. :) our gun rights aren't that liberal, we have quite strict ones. Soo theres no way to carry, just shoot at gun ranges, apply for permit/license each gun with the police (which may take up to a couple of months) and before that you need to have been member at a gun-range for at least a 6 months period, and shoot at least three 46-point precision series one handed at 25meters for the police to accept that you need an own gun for training and competition. But I'm not complaining, i still get to compete and shoot at my club.

I'm happy to have found you guys, the work you've done with the collator is outstanding. At the moment i run one with my Lee APP to collate fired brass for depriming and one for bulletfeeding when loading 9mm on my XL750. And soon when loading .32S&W Long as well.

Speaking of which, could you guys help me design a slide plate for the .32s, where they can slide down and enter the spring? For the moment i'm using the brass slideplate but the opening is too big and the bullets get stuck when falling sideways.

Best Regards
Karl

[RydForLyf]

Quick question. The manual states the build area needs to be 210 x 210. I have access to a Prusa that says it is 210 x 210. That doesn’t leave much wiggle room. I understand I would need to disable all brims, etc., but even with that, is there enough room for the main body?

Thanks!

[Charlie_Sweden]

Quick question. The manual states the build area needs to be 210 x 210. I have access to a Prusa that says it is 210 x 210. That doesn’t leave much wiggle room. I understand I would need to disable all brims, etc., but even with that, is there enough room for the main body?

Thanks!

Standard prusa i3 works fine with main body. Prusa mini not so much. :-)

[RydForLyf]

Standard prusa i3 works fine with main body. Prusa mini not so much. :-)

Perfect!

Thanks

[TylerR]

Hehe! Yes, there is quite the time difference. :) our gun rights aren't that liberal, we have quite strict ones. Soo theres no way to carry, just shoot at gun ranges, apply for permit/license each gun with the police (which may take up to a couple of months) and before that you need to have been member at a gun-range for at least a 6 months period, and shoot at least three 46-point precision series one handed at 25meters for the police to accept that you need an own gun for training and competition. But I'm not complaining, i still get to compete and shoot at my club.

I'm happy to have found you guys, the work you've done with the collator is outstanding. At the moment i run one with my Lee APP to collate fired brass for depriming and one for bulletfeeding when loading 9mm on my XL750. And soon when loading .32S&W Long as well.

Speaking of which, could you guys help me design a slide plate for the .32s, where they can slide down and enter the spring? For the moment i'm using the brass slideplate but the opening is too big and the bullets get stuck when falling sideways.

Best Regards
Karl

Run it a little slower, and more angle. Shoot some video and post if you are still having an issue.

[Jackbrush]

Speaking of which, could you guys help me design a slide plate for the .32s, where they can slide down and enter the spring? For the moment i'm using the brass slideplate but the opening is too big and the bullets get stuck when falling sideways.

Best Regards
Karl

I'm looking to get into 32 by way of 327 so videos and other cooperation would be lit

[Charlie_Sweden]

Run it a little slower, and more angle. Shoot some video and post if you are still having an issue.

This is how is works, i think a slideplate that the bullets can glide down on instead of falling of the 90 degrees edge would help. See the one with lead bullets and how they lock up due to tumbeling when falling down. The bulletfeed-die is working really well though! :)

Collating .32S&W Long HBWC

https://youtu.be/ZalkQAgeuEs

Lead bullets lock-up the collator

https://youtu.be/OvltEhn5utc

Feed die.

https://youtu.be/QtAzib0-yu8