Making that Bullet Collator

[bigmike111]

I also have the same Dayton motors and drilled and dropped a pin in. I used the values on the plates for the shaft. Also noticed they were much looser as you did without adjusting them:

// my dayton shaft
shaft_hole=8.2;
shaft_slot_length=26;
shaft_slot_width=4.5;

I used a 1/8 1" long pin.

Tried the plate this morning, 8.1 for the shaft hole was just a bit too small so I ended up running a 21/64 bit through and it fits perfectly.

Also used some regular 55gr FMJ bullets and had way less issues with them feeding/jamming etc.

[thump_rrr]

I thought about it but don’t know how to go about it or if it would even solve the problem. I have them on my Dillon casefeed plates but I’m not aware of how they function.

It is simply a top and bottom washer bolted together with 2 cap screws. There are lock washers between the cap screws and the top washer.
It is basically a friction fit.
Too loose, the washers slip and the plate doesn't turn.
Too tight and it acts as if it isn't even there.

[thump_rrr]

Might as well post mine .
Completed the main body a couple of days ago.
I went a little crazy with 0.12mm layers wall thickness of 6 in PETG.
Total print time of 71 hours.

Here it is next to the AmmoMike83 collator that I abandoned.
I had a loose X-axis belt and it slipped as I was watching it.
Once I saw the difference in size between them
I was glad that it happened.
As of today it’s 15 days that I’ve first touched a 3D printer.
Printed in MG Chemicals PTEG17RE1
https://i.postimg.cc/pLGKFNbn/90-E4-CF26-B1-C0-44-EA-8-DC7-530-CD3-B44-C4-E.jpg (https://postimg.cc/3kGkscwK)

[tanders]

This is why I have arduino uno with a motor shield. It is limiting the torque by constantly measuring the power consumption. With the motor shield and the sensor shield stacked on top of the uno it is almost plug and play. If anyone is interested I will do my best to get a parts breakdown and wiring diagram completed.

[djinnpb]

This is why I have arduino uno with a motor shield. It is limiting the torque by constantly measuring the power consumption. With the motor shield and the sensor shield stacked on top of the uno it is almost plug and play. If anyone is interested I will do my best to get a parts breakdown and wiring diagram completed.

I definitely would. That sounds like a great method to accomplish this. Do you have it set to just stop or reverse then go again unless jammed again then stop?

[lablover]

This is why I have arduino uno with a motor shield. It is limiting the torque by constantly measuring the power consumption. With the motor shield and the sensor shield stacked on top of the uno it is almost plug and play. If anyone is interested I will do my best to get a parts breakdown and wiring diagram completed.

I’d be interested as well

So awesome to see you guys having success with Tyler’s awesome design! It’s been great for me

[GWS]

Might as well post mine .
Completed the main body a couple of days ago.
I went a little crazy with 0.12mm layers wall thickness of 6 in PETG.
Total print time of 71 hours.

Here it is next to the AmmoMike83 collator that I abandoned.
I had a loose X-axis belt and it slipped as I was watching it.
Once I saw the difference in size between them
I was glad that it happened.
As of today it’s 15 days that I’ve first touched a 3D printer.
Printed in MG Chemicals PTEG17RE1


Looks really good thump rr! I only started in August.....still a beginner, but I'm getting better all the time. The best part is I haven't wasted a lot of plastic.;) You caught your fail early too. But I have only used PLA, and I'm very curious what hoops you have to jump to be successful with PTEG. Could you share some of the other parameters you used? Nozzle temperature, Bed temperature? Direct Drive? Did you have to cover the printer? Which printer? Type and size of Nozzle. Trying to learn all I can. ;) And about the PTEG? What's the pluses?

My last base posted a page or two ago (post 3218), took 64 hours using variable layer height from .10 to .14. It lifted just a little in two corners (easily fixed) and I finally found out why I've been having that trouble.....too high bed temperature. Now I'm using first layer at 70C and the rest at 60C. and the PLA temperature 1st layer at 215, and the rest at 210. Working much better. I've only used a .4 nozzle and not direct drive.

BTW, yeah, I've thought of using a clutch....even on my Hornady Pistol Collator mods....(which didn't have one on that machine), just have seen one like you have. Having a hard time seeing how it works.....is it just squeezing the plate between to little washers?

[thump_rrr]

Looks really good thump rr! I only started in August.....still a beginner, but I'm getting better all the time. The best part is I haven't wasted a lot of plastic.;) You caught your fail early too. But I have only used PLA, and I'm very curious what hoops you have to jump to be successful with PTEG. Could you share some of the other parameters you used? Nozzle temperature, Bed temperature? Direct Drive? Did you have to cover the printer? Which printer? Type and size of Nozzle. Trying to learn all I can. ;) And about the PTEG? What's the pluses?

My last base posted a page or two ago (post 3218), took 64 hours using variable layer height from .10 to .14. It lifted just a little in two corners (easily fixed) and I finally found out why I've been having that trouble.....too high bed temperature. Now I'm using first layer at 70C and the rest at 60C. and the PLA temperature 1st layer at 215, and the rest at 210. Working much better. I've only used a .4 nozzle and not direct drive.

BTW, yeah, I've thought of using a clutch....even on my Hornady Pistol Collator mods....(which didn't have one on that machine), just have seen one like you have. Having a hard time seeing how it works.....is it just squeezing the base between to little plates?
My printer is a Creality CR-6 SE. It has a bowden tube setup and has a Carborundum coated glass bed
With PETG for the most part there is no issues with it sticking as long as your bed is squeaky clean.
It actually sticks too well.
I only use Dawn dish soap and hot water to clean the bed. If you let the bed cool down the parts come off by themselves.

As for printer settings I settled on 235C nozzle temp and 80C bed temp.

I don't know if you have heard anything about the CR-6 SE printers but they were initially launched on Kickstarter.
it was a disaster with hardware and software issues. on/off switches failing, main boards smoking, leak voltages frying computers, etc.
Having read up about them before purchasing I felt confident that all those issues could be worked out and I could get a decent printer with auto bed leveling and a touch screen GUI for $529 Canadian for a unit that was in stock locally and I could walk out of the store with it.

I brought it home and within 1 hour I was printing.
I bought a replacement on/off switch at the same time for $3.99. The original lasted 10 days.
I printed a Benchy with the 200gr of PLA that was supplied.
I then switched to the red PETG so I could start printing the collator.
I got to around hour 25 when I noticed the X-axis belt began to slip.
I never checked the belt tension assuming that since it was new everything would have been adjusted from the factory.
I tried to adjust the belt tension on the fly and that's where the print shifted enough that I stopped the print.

I then found this video and site and spent almost 2 days testing and tuning to get it where it is today.

https://youtu.be/rp3r921DBGI
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
There were many bolts in the frame of the printer that simply weren't tight enough or not tightened at all.
I can say that now my first layer is like a wafer perfect without being a bunch of strings you could see through

I also tested and repaired the leaky voltage issue on my unit.

https://youtu.be/pW9YBMmDKzs

I then installed a Raspberry Pi so that I could remotely monitor and control my printer.
I was going to flash the printer with the community developed firmware that everyone was raving about but I'll wait till my collator parts are all printed first.

[djinnpb]

So testing the proximity sensor out. I reprinted all the drop tubes at 2 wall and 10% infill hoping it would make a difference. They seem to work better on bullets. However if brass moves ever so bit it goes on and off even if brass is in the position. Has anyone else had issues with the detection on brass? Was testing with 300blk brass in 10mm drop tube.

I could use the photosensor setup on brass and proximity on brass but really digging the simplicity of the proximity.. just seems a bit finicky or am I doing something wrong? :P

[TylerR]

So testing the proximity sensor out. I reprinted all the drop tubes at 2 wall and 10% infill hoping it would make a difference. They seem to work better on bullets. However if brass moves ever so bit it goes on and off even if brass is in the position. Has anyone else had issues with the detection on brass? Was testing with 300blk brass in 10mm drop tube.

I could use the photosensor setup on brass and proximity on brass but really digging the simplicity of the proximity.. just seems a bit finicky or am I doing something wrong? :P

Which sensor are you using again? And are you sure you are pushing it all the way in flush to the flat part of the drop tube?

[djinnpb]

Which sensor are you using again? And are you sure you are pushing it all the way in flush to the flat part of the drop tube?

Still waiting for the blue one in the manual (AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2), so for now using this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081DGFYN8 (PR18-8DN2) and indeed pushing it in all the way flush. Though starting to wonder if it's really 8mm sensing. on my bench if seems to only sense reliably at about half that distance. does the AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 sense on the bench an accurate 8mm? Being the first time I've tried proximity sensors, not sure if I ended up with a bad one or not .. lessening the experience.

[TylerR]

Still waiting for the blue one in the manual (AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2), so for now using this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081DGFYN8 (PR18-8DN2) and indeed pushing it in all the way flush. Though starting to wonder if it's really 8mm sensing. on my bench if seems to only sense reliably at about half that distance. does the AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 sense on the bench an accurate 8mm? Being the first time I've tried proximity sensors, not sure if I ended up with a bad one or not .. lessening the experience.

Looks like it should work. The sensing distance is much shorter on these then what's advertised, for our purpose. I designed the drop tubes to have only 3mm or less between the flat portion and the inside of the tube. So even at 4mm it should still be sensing. Maybe that one is a bit of a lemon.

[djinnpb]

Looks like it should work. The sensing distance is much shorter on these then what's advertised, for our purpose. I designed the drop tubes to have only 3mm or less between the flat portion and the inside of the tube. So even at 4mm it should still be sensing. Maybe that one is a bit of a lemon.

Thinking it could be. I didn't see a screw to turn anywhere to help adjust it. I grabbed these too so will see if they work any better or worse https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XDVSNX

[GWS]

Still waiting for the blue one in the manual (AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2), so for now using this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081DGFYN8 (PR18-8DN2) and indeed pushing it in all the way flush. Though starting to wonder if it's really 8mm sensing. on my bench if seems to only sense reliably at about half that distance. does the AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 sense on the bench an accurate 8mm? Being the first time I've tried proximity sensors, not sure if I ended up with a bad one or not .. lessening the experience.

When you say pushing it in all the way flush......what's flush? My part is open into the drop tube and my sensor is flush with the inside drop tube wall.....and I have no problem detecting anything so far. Of course I bought the original (to me) again....and it's long....but it works every time. Makes me wonder what was lost shortening the tube....sensitivity?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWTQ3SF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

[TylerR]

When you say pushing it in all the way flush......what's flush? My part is open to the drop and my sensor is flush with the drop tube wall.....and I have no problem detecting anything so far. Of course I bought the original (to me) again....and it's long....but it works everytime.

https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_pop?_encoding=UTF8&asin=B07CWTQ3SF&gen=canonical&lineItemId=lnsjnxjsnmrquny&orderId=113-9541407-3252233&packageId=1&returnSummaryId=&returnUnitIndices=&returnUnitMappingId=&shipmentId=D7tYjwY1m

I believe he is using it with my drop tube, that has a flat face the sensor should sit flush against.

[GWS]

But the tube is round inside isn't it? If your part is closed off with a flat is it flat inside the drop too? Or is it round inside where the cases are? Distance to the sensor would then vary.....mine varies too, but it's open to the inside...in there it's flush on the rim, but the center is recessed a tad......add plastic in-between and that increases. So the question is how thick is the plastic between .... is the sweet spot where it is close big enough?

[TylerR]

But the tube is round inside isn't it? If your part is closed off with a flat is it flat inside the drop too? Or is it round inside where the cases are? Distance to the sensor would then vary.....mine varies too, but it's open to the inside...in there it's flush on the rim, but the center is recessed a tad......add plastic in-between and that increases. So the question is how thick is the plastic between .... is the sweet spot where it is close big enough?

Yes, it is round on the inside of the tube. With my testing I get reliable detection as far out as 5mm. The 6mm tube as an example has 2mm of wall space, so there is plenty of tolerance built in there. With inductive sensors the sensing distance is not supposed to be greatly impacted by non metallic material (plastic) in between. I have had no issues in testing all the sized drop tubes with brass and bullets, with the two sensors I have tested. (One of them being the one you posted)

[thump_rrr]

Still waiting for the blue one in the manual (AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2), so for now using this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081DGFYN8 (PR18-8DN2) and indeed pushing it in all the way flush. Though starting to wonder if it's really 8mm sensing. on my bench if seems to only sense reliably at about half that distance. does the AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 sense on the bench an accurate 8mm? Being the first time I've tried proximity sensors, not sure if I ended up with a bad one or not .. lessening the experience.
That sensor has only an 8mm detection distance at best.
If you look at one of the images from the link you provided copper gives you about 1/4 of that sensing distance or 2mm.
Don’t forget that bullets are only jacketed in copper.
That may also play a part.

I may be out in left field and someone please correct me if I’m wrong.
https://i.postimg.cc/Zqt6sGbr/05462-C53-D9-AD-495-B-83-D2-03928-ECC9-FE5.jpg (https://postimg.cc/gxswnB6J)

[djinnpb]

That sensor has only an 8mm detection distance at best.
If you look at one of the images from the link you provided copper gives you about 1/4 of that sensing distance or 2mm.
Don’t forget that bullets are only jacketed in copper.
That may also play a part.


I tried another sensor as well. Both seem to work unless there is any wiggle room (aka drop tube movement) it will go off and on. wonder if that bevel being about where the prox flat spot is lets the top move away ever so slightly causing that? Did you have issues with it moving with brass? that or would maybe undersizing the hole help (without binding the brass obviously).

I use mostly cast lead and those oddly seem to do well. The brass is the hit and miss so the detection rate that would see on part given the rate of induction

quick example on how it would work but if the tube has any vibration moving the brass it toggles on/off

https://youtu.be/P_Hyzx5t4O8

[noacess]

Just to add a little more to this proximity sensor discussion. I've had 0 issues with 300BLK cases using the PRD18-14DN2 sensor and the #10 tube. However, last night I tried out the uxcell 8mm sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) with 220gr berrys plated in a #8 tube and it seems like this sensor just barely does not detect them. If I push the bullet a hair towards the sensor it works. I have a second PRD18-14DN2 I'm going to wire up and see if it helps. I'll report back with the results.

[Rcmaveric]

Yes. Restats or variable resistors will slow the motor but at a loss to torque. So you wouldn't be able to turn as much weight. Also isnt good for the motor and may decrease its life.

PWM is better. The wave visual works for guys like us who study sine waves. A more rudimentary way is to imagine hard wiring power and ground to the motor. Then install a switch on the ground leg of that and rapidly flicking that switch 1000 times a second. The voltage remains the same. All its doing adding and removing the ground at set intervals.

A note on the sensor. You are going to need a decent quality capacitive sensor. Lead is non ferrous (magnetic). So looking for sensor rated to detect it will help. They work by using a magnetic feild to induce a voltage and then detecting that. Materials that are non magnetic will respond with a a weak signal. For more information see link
https://www.se.com/uk/en/faqs/FA22749/

NPN or PNP doesn't matter. Thats just how the transistor in side the sensor works. NPN mean Neutral-Power-Neutral and it will send out a ground (this is the most common as controlling ground is safest). PNP stands for Power-Neutral-Power it will send out a power signal when tripped.

Search for an NPN sensor rated for nonferrous metals will enhance your success.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

A note on the sensor. You are going to need a decent quality capacitive sensor. Lead is non ferrous (magnetic). So looking for sensor rated to detect it will help. They work by using a magnetic feild to induce a voltage and then detecting that. Materials that are non magnetic will respond with a a weak signal. For more information see link
https://www.se.com/uk/en/faqs/FA22749/

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

My understanding was that a capacitive sensor would sense non metallic objects, like plastic. Is that not the case?

[TylerR]

I tried another sensor as well. Both seem to work unless there is any wiggle room (aka drop tube movement) it will go off and on. wonder if that bevel being about where the prox flat spot is lets the top move away ever so slightly causing that? Did you have issues with it moving with brass? that or would maybe undersizing the hole help (without binding the brass obviously).


I just recreated this exact setup here and I did not have any issues with the AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 sensor and it worked like a champ.

If anyone has a line on a more reliable sensor I am all ears. We can even update the manual to reflect the new one. All I am saying is that with my setup the furthest it really has to detect is 2.5mm, which really isnt't that far. The (AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2) claims to have 14mm detection under ideal conditions.

[TylerR]

One more idea, just spitballing. If the plastic does in some way reduce the detection range with an inductive sensor, I could look to add a circular cutout where the sensor meets the drop tube.

[djinnpb]

I just recreated this exact setup here and I did not have any issues with the AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 sensor and it worked like a champ.

If anyone has a line on a more reliable sensor I am all ears. We can even update the manual to reflect the new one. All I am saying is that with my setup the furthest it really has to detect is 2.5mm, which really isnt't that far. The (AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2) claims to have 14mm detection under ideal conditions.

Tyler you have any issues with other sensors at all? I wish the AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 was as easily sourced. I'll have to wait a fair bit to get one.

To rule out hole size. What is the inner hole size on the 10mm as printed for you? I'm going to print another and undersize the hole a touch and see if if that helps. So much potential with these but I would be amazed if that AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 really can reliably detect 14mm. If so perhaps well worth the wait to get some. Though I really thought the PR18-14DN2 (no D) would be the same China product with a diff end cap.

[djinnpb]

One more idea, just spitballing. If the plastic does in some way reduce the detection range with an inductive sensor, I could look to add a circular cutout where the sensor meets the drop tube.

Hrm that might help but with that curved ramp it leaves a bit of a distance. Just a thought but what about moving the flat a little lower than the ramp (closer to the photocell holes). It would likely help a stable piece and maybe have more meat that the flat could go in a touch more to get closer?

[GWS]

Tyler, that might not be enough for little cases,

I always suggested leaning the tubes so the bullets fall on the sensor side, and I do that and the sensor is 100% on bullets....except the .223's.....so I designed a warped tube insert to force the little bullets closer to the sensor, and that worked for me perfectly. (but my sensor tube is angled for bullets)

So then I try the TylerR base for case collating and I'm back to a vertical drop. For .308's that's no problems period, but again .223's going down the same housing work best only if they can be made to fall close to the sensor.

I tested it with .223's a few minutes ago, by just plugging the outlet with a hand. I found that it forces the little .223's at angles inside the housing....and forces at lease one case to lean the sensor direction as the video below shows:


https://youtu.be/wa6IxjXv9Xc

So then another test video below: I first stuck a .308 up from the bottom.....I could find one spot where the switch wouldn't sense it....but I had to work at it, and it's never happened just dropping .308 normally.

.223 is another matter....there were plenty of spots where it wasn't sensed....meaning maybe it could use an insert like I did with bullets that warps the tube into the sensor. So all's not perfect with .223.....and yet as the first video above shows the .223 cases tend to bunch up at an angle, so I'm not sure in use whether it will be a problem. Food for thought....and more experimentation. Keep in mind that my housing doen't have any plastic separation. ;)


https://youtu.be/bROfKurhxOc

[TylerR]

Tyler you have any issues with other sensors at all? I wish the AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 was as easily sourced. I'll have to wait a fair bit to get one.

To rule out hole size. What is the inner hole size on the 10mm as printed for you? I'm going to print another and undersize the hole a touch and see if if that helps. So much potential with these but I would be amazed if that AUTONICS PRD18-14DN2 really can reliably detect 14mm. If so perhaps well worth the wait to get some. Though I really thought the PR18-14DN2 (no D) would be the same China product with a diff end cap.

Yeah I am not happy that it's not easily sourced, because it is compact, light weight and reliable. I have to admit I was very dissapointed with the rated detection range and what it actually is. Out of the supposed 14mm range I am getting around 5mm. I know that has to do with iron vs lead vs brass but even so....

So o416's amazing manual lists the drop tube number with its actual ID on page 14. the #10 drop tube is actually 10.5mm ID. This was done to handle 10mm and .40 bullets.

[TylerR]

Hrm that might help but with that curved ramp it leaves a bit of a distance. Just a thought but what about moving the flat a little lower than the ramp (closer to the photocell holes). It would likely help a stable piece and maybe have more meat that the flat could go in a touch more to get closer?

I can look at that but the tolerances are super close already.

[TylerR]

Any professional opinions of removing some the the plastic between the sensor and the metal? Will that make any difference?

[noacess]

Just to add a little more to this proximity sensor discussion. I've had 0 issues with 300BLK cases using the PRD18-14DN2 sensor and the #10 tube. However, last night I tried out the uxcell 8mm sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) with 220gr berrys plated in a #8 tube and it seems like this sensor just barely does not detect them. If I push the bullet a hair towards the sensor it works. I have a second PRD18-14DN2 I'm going to wire up and see if it helps. I'll report back with the results.

So I just tested the PRD18-14DN2 sensor and had the exact same issue as the uxcell 8mm. When the bullets are lining up in the tube, the part of the bullet that starts to taper ends up being right in front of where the proximity sensor is detecting and its just barely too far away to detect it. All I have to do is give the slightest touch towards the sensor and detection occurs.

[djinnpb]

... plastic between the sensor and the metal? Will that make any difference?

Oddly I tested with the large box slider lid (2.75mm) and with some thick cardboard (2.8mm) and it's the further it will read.. I think if the Autonics PRD18-14DN2 really will do 4mm it would probably be great. Though I can't believe there isn't another sensing distance equivalent easily sourced. Both with and without plastic in the way didn't seem to make much difference.
Also took one of the cheap sensor apart to see if the sensor was really at the tip or not (if they could be pushed forward at all.. apparently not a great idea.

[TylerR]

So I just tested the PRD18-14DN2 sensor and had the exact same issue as the uxcell 8mm. When the bullets are lining up in the tube, the part of the bullet that starts to taper ends up being right in front of where the proximity sensor is detecting and its just barely too far away to detect it. All I have to do is give the slightest touch towards the sensor and detection occurs.

I could certainly reduce the taper some at the top of the drop tube. I just want to make the bullets are still feeding properly.

[TylerR]

Oddly I tested with the large box slider lid (2.75mm) and with some thick cardboard (2.8mm) and it's the further it will read.. I think if the Autonics PRD18-14DN2 really will do 4mm it would probably be great. Though I can't believe there isn't another sensing distance equivalent easily sourced. Both with and without plastic in the way didn't seem to make much difference.
Also took one of the cheap sensor apart to see if the sensor was really at the tip or not (if they could be pushed forward at all.. apparently not a great idea.

If you can find one as good and easily sourced we are all ears :)

[noacess]

I could certainly reduce the taper some at the top of the drop tube. I just want to make the bullets are still feeding properly.

I'm happy to test any solution you think might provide an improvement. If you have a modified #8 tube let me know and I'll give it a whirl.

Thanks!

[thump_rrr]

There goes 18 hours down the drain:(
Power failure while I wasn’t home.
Build plate cooled down enough for the plate to come unstuck.
https://i.postimg.cc/Jny9FPs2/6-E088-E6-C-B396-4389-9-CF2-D5-F05-FAB7-B5-B.jpg (https://postimg.cc/CBgPBCHG)

[thump_rrr]

Tyler, Speaking of jams destroying the motor here are a few of my experiences:

I am using the Dayton Motor, at first I had drilled and put a 3/8 roll pin in the shaft and used your stock #2 plate. The diameter of the motor shaft on my motor is 8MM on the dot and the #2 plate is 10.1 (making an assumption based off of the number listed in the manual), because there is a 2mm difference there was some play in the plate when it was positioned on the shaft. I has come occasional issues with jams and I'm not sure if it was due to the plate being loose or what. At one point the plate had jammed and was STUCK, ultimately the roll pin had dug into the side of the plate. I have since abandoned that plate.

I created a new plate with a hex adapter and printed a new plate. When I created the plate I screwed up and did not put the right height for rifle bullets but started testing it anyway while I waited for the new plate to print out. It seemed that with the plate being properly centered and not having the extra play like the pinned shaft did everything worked a little better. Since the plate was very short and the hex adapter was only 1/2-3/5 of the way inside of the plate the first jam stripped out the hole.

Que the 3rd plate - This one I made the proper height so the hex adapter was seated all the way inside the plate. This one worked really well and only had a few bullets go in upside down but did have a few hangups. I did end up having it get stuck pretty good a couple times and at one point the hex adapter started slipping on the shaft. I pulled everything off and found that the set screw may have backed out a bit and ripped itself out of the adapter and galled up the motor shaft pretty good.

It seems these motors are pretty powerful. lol

So, currently I have another plate on the printer, going back to the pinned shaft. This one I made with a 8.1mm hole diameter instead of the 10.1 to make sure the plate is centered with less slop and I can open the hole up bigger with a drill bit if needed. I also included 4 walls to try to help with the roll pin not digging in like the first plate.
Have you tried printing a proper hex adapter with a flat in it?
I didn’t get the depth right on this one so I was printing another when I lost power.

Sorry for the crappy images but I’m working with a headlight on.
https://i.postimg.cc/HLR6T7vD/8-E70356-C-B9-BC-4-F54-A5-B2-D68-C25146-D26.jpg (https://postimg.cc/3yjXBWHn)
https://i.postimg.cc/85vtcPxF/2-E15-ECE4-BA15-4-EA6-8-DE7-AD25-FC474776.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HcpQPHYH)

[HuskJ]

There goes 18 hours down the drain:(
Power failure while I wasn’t home.
Build plate cooled down enough for the plate to come unstuck.
https://i.postimg.cc/Jny9FPs2/6-E088-E6-C-B396-4389-9-CF2-D5-F05-FAB7-B5-B.jpg (https://postimg.cc/CBgPBCHG)

Been there my man, I have a few "coasters" on my desk from the power outtage.

[TylerR]

Been there my man, I have a few "coasters" on my desk from the power outtage.


There is a reason i have my printer on a battery backup.

[thump_rrr]

There is a reason i have my printer on a battery backup.
How big a UPS do you have?
So far it went out for 2 hours this afternoon and it’s been out again since 7:00pm and the estimated restoration time is 10:30pm.

I can understand a few hours worth but anything longer than that you probably need a generator.

[g1500]

Have you tried printing a proper hex adapter with a flat in it?
I didn’t get the depth right on this one so I was printing another when I lost power.

Sorry for the crappy images but I’m working with a headlight on.
https://i.postimg.cc/HLR6T7vD/8-E70356-C-B9-BC-4-F54-A5-B2-D68-C25146-D26.jpg (https://postimg.cc/3yjXBWHn)
https://i.postimg.cc/85vtcPxF/2-E15-ECE4-BA15-4-EA6-8-DE7-AD25-FC474776.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HcpQPHYH)

Negative, I looked into some adapters previously and heard a lot of people say that they tend to break easily. Plus, making that is way outside of my skill set, all I have made so far was an adapter for an endoscope and a foot for a swing; both were very rudimentary things yet took me a LONG time to make not having any knowledge of CAD. lol

The plates I re-printed with the new dimensions worked perfectly.

[TylerR]

How big a UPS do you have?
So far it went out for 2 hours this afternoon and it’s been out again since 7:00pm and the estimated restoration time is 10:30pm.

I can understand a few hours worth but anything longer than that you probably need a generator.

Yeah i am on house genertor too so that helps

[g1500]

Any professional opinions of removing some the the plastic between the sensor and the metal? Will that make any difference?

I think you will just get the sensor closer to the brass/bullets, the closer to the object the better. We use the big 30mm proximity sensors on trucks at work to cut out the PTO when things are open or in use, they are generally 3-5mm away from the ladders etc. so they like to be very close.

One could always run a spade or forstner bit through an old drop tube for testing instead of designing a new assembly.

[Macscotts56]

Doesn't the copper jacket impede the detection of the sensor? I believe the reduction in sensitivity can be as much as 75% when detecting copper. So if the range is normally 12mm when detecting copper it could be as low as 3mm. Additionally the shape of the object matters as well, the IEC spec for these sensors is determined by using a square flat piece of 1mm thick carbon steel that is equal to the surface area of the sensor. In other words you could completely remove the plastic of the drop tube and the limiting factor would remain the copper jacket and the shape of the bullet. I don't think there is much that could be done other than getting a bigger sensor.

[Macscotts56]

I'm trying to attach the bullet feeder to my dillon case feeder using the dillon hang brackets. Do I need to drill a hole through the dillon case feeder in order the attach the bracket? I'm struggling to understand how the two brackets work together.

[thump_rrr]

I'm trying to attach the bullet feeder to my dillon case feeder using the dillon hang brackets. Do I need to drill a hole through the dillon case feeder in order the attach the bracket? I'm struggling to understand how the two brackets work together.

Going by memory the way I see it is that it hooks onto the Dillon and bolts to the collator.
Look at the very first picture in the manual.
You can see it hooked onto the Dillon case feeder.

I have a Hornady myself.

[thump_rrr]

Negative, I looked into some adapters previously and heard a lot of people say that they tend to break easily. Plus, making that is way outside of my skill set, all I have made so far was an adapter for an endoscope and a foot for a swing; both were very rudimentary things yet took me a LONG time to make not having any knowledge of CAD. lol

The plates I re-printed with the new dimensions worked perfectly.
Barring another power failure I should have one printed in the next 45 minutes.
I’ll post pics and if someone wants a copy of the STL file I’ll find a way to send it.

[Macscotts56]

Going by memory the way I see it is that it hooks onto the Dillon and bolts to the collator.
Look at the very first picture in the manual.
You can see it hooked onto the Dillon case feeder.

I have a Hornady myself.

Yeah, I saw that but I was hopeful that I was just missing something, I really didn't was to drill a hole through my casefeeder.

[TylerR]

Yeah, I saw that but I was hopeful that I was just missing something, I really didn't was to drill a hole through my casefeeder.


Drilling the hole is optional. It should just hang off the side.

[TylerR]

All drop tubes have been modified to have 2mm clearance between the sensor and the hole itself. If you have a sensor that cannot reliably detect 2mm I would suggest using another sensor. As I have said I have no issues using the suggested Autonics PRD18-14DN2, or the one originally posted by GWS.

[GWS]

Me neither.......I was a little concerned about .223 cases, but I finished the build except for putting the electronics into my bigger box. (with the relay, and am using the little 5v power on the 12v motor, and it runs cool, slow, and perfect....no speed control.) So, I was surprised that I am having zero problems. Now, I did add another sweeper to the base.....two is better than one.....no more soldiers trying to get fed at once, no more jams and the collator shuts off every time.....and this is .223 even.;)

Video below to prove it..........thanks TylerR! your base and my proximity switch mates together for .223 cases just fine!

What's more if I replace the rotating plate and the lower tube with the .308 counterparts, it works exactly the same for that too. I love simple.


https://youtu.be/OEnDlvP7HeM

[Rcmaveric]

Looking at the link I posted. Copper is harder to detect than lead. Lead is half the impedence iron. Copper is more that 75% less than lead. Oddly brass is about the same as lead probably due to the zinc in it.

Capacitive proximity sensors can be used to detect a range of materials. They make adjustable ones. Problem is has either be designed for the material or have the sensitivity be adjustable. Getting one with the largest range will help.

https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Increase-Sensitivity-of-Inductive-Proximity/

Can't vouche for the validity, but makes sense. The magnets will amplify inductive signal theoretically increasing range and sensitivity.

Maybe look for one designed for 3D printers. They would be calibrated to detect aluminum

Looking at the picture I posted refer to material influence. Multiple the material influence on your sensors rated distance will give you a more accurate sensing distance. From what I just researched most sensors are calibrated for FE 360 steel and thats what their rated distance is for. You will need one double or triple extended.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210126/2fa6182573e5f5c109e4d88c5c4dd83a.jpg

[djinnpb]

TylerR: Thanks for the tweak on the drop tubes. I printed a 1/2 top of the 10mm to test with 300blk brass and the less than ideal sensor and it works well now. I've also ordered the one you've had better success with.. just taking forever to get it in hand. I also never though about this but moving to the proximity sensor I can now print all clear petg tubes :P was a horrible idea when I did for the photo sensor

[TylerR]

TylerR: Thanks for the tweak on the drop tubes. I printed a 1/2 top of the 10mm to test with 300blk brass and the less than ideal sensor and it works well now. I've also ordered the one you've had better success with.. just taking forever to get it in hand. I also never though about this but moving to the proximity sensor I can now print all clear petg tubes :P was a horrible idea when I did for the photo sensor

Awesome. I am glad to hear it made the difference.

[TylerR]

I also have some hitech coated 160s if you want some for testing. I’d be happy to send you some on my dime. I can’t wait to see the results because these are tough little suckers

I got your package lablover. Let the games begin!

Just curious are you using hex interface, or pin thru shaft? Which motor again?

[GWS]

TylerR: Thanks for the tweak on the drop tubes. I printed a 1/2 top of the 10mm to test with 300blk brass and the less than ideal sensor and it works well now. I've also ordered the one you've had better success with.. just taking forever to get it in hand. I also never though about this but moving to the proximity sensor I can now print all clear petg tubes :P was a horrible idea when I did for the photo sensor

Waiting for the pictures.....especially on the clear tube! Never seen clear see-thru 3d prints..... ;)

[TylerR]

Lablover, I have already done some initial tests with some existing collator plates, and it's fairly clear what the issues are. I am right now printing a new plate where I basically "tightened the screws" a bit. I have reduced the diameter of the shaft hole, reduced the size of the bullet holes, and I changed the plate diameter to 181mm, which technically leaves .5 mm of clearance to the side of the collator. I can see one of the main issues is the nose of the bullet not making contact with the ramp to begin the flipping process. Depending on how my new plate works I will consider more changes from there, possibly with the ramp itself.

[TylerR]

Me neither.......I was a little concerned about .223 cases, but I finished the build except for putting the electronics into my bigger box. (with the relay, and am using the little 5v power on the 12v motor, and it runs cool, slow, and perfect....no speed control.) So, I was surprised that I am having zero problems. Now, I did add another sweeper to the base.....two is better than one.....no more soldiers trying to get fed at once, no more jams and the collator shuts off every time.....and this is .223 even.;)

Video below to prove it..........thanks TylerR! your base and my proximity switch mates together for .223 cases just fine!

What's more if I replace the rotating plate and the lower tube with the .308 counterparts, it works exactly the same for that too. I love simple.


Love to hear the success story my friend. And the videos are always nice.

[GWS]

Love to hear the success story my friend. And the videos are always nice.

Yup! Now I'm the first ever to run an RCBS Pro Chucker 7 loading rifle right.........with auto collated case and bullet feeders!...since RCBS sure never made them. So what do you do with 7 stations loading rifle using military LC cases already prepped? (sized, deprimed, swaged, wet tumbled, and trimmed)

1. Case Auto fed
2. M-Die neck expanded for bullet feeder, Primed on the down stoke.
3. Powder Charged
4. Video Powder Cop
5. Bullets collated and fed into M-die case shelf
6. Bullets seated
7. Case necks snugged.

Now I really am going to clean the reloading room! Thanks again.....been a fun project!

[TylerR]

Yup! Now I'm the first ever to run an RCBS Pro Chucker 7 loading rifle right.........with auto collated case and bullet feeders!...since RCBS sure never made them. So what do you do with 7 stations loading rifle using military LC cases already prepped? (sized, deprimed, swaged, wet tumbled, and trimmed)

1. Case Auto fed
2. M-Die neck expanded for bullet feeder, Primed on the down stoke.
3. Powder Charged
4. Video Powder Cop
5. Bullets collated and fed into M-die case shelf
6. Bullets seated
7. Case necks snugged.

Now I really am going to clean the reloading room! Thanks again.....been a fun project!

All this talk makes me want to go out and buy a RCBS Pro Chucker 7

[Rcmaveric]

I am trying to justify a new Ender 5 and a Dillion 1050 to my wife... looks like this is turning into a one sided loosing argument for me.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I am trying to justify a new Ender 5 and a Dillion 1050 to my wife... looks like this is turning into a one sided loosing argument for me.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Ha! I had never looked at the RCBS Pro 7 but it looks like it is their answer to the 1050?

[noacess]

All drop tubes have been modified to have 2mm clearance between the sensor and the hole itself. If you have a sensor that cannot reliably detect 2mm I would suggest using another sensor. As I have said I have no issues using the suggested Autonics PRD18-14DN2, or the one originally posted by GWS.


Happy to report back that the new drop tubes fixed the issue for both sensors!

[GWS]

Happy to report back that the new drop tubes fixed the issue for both sensors!

Looks like TylerR is still on a roll!


Ha! I had never looked at the RCBS Pro 7 but it looks like it is their answer to the 1050?

Maybe it was supposed to be.....but it's aluminum unlike the Pro 2000 or the Dillon 1050 which are both cast iron....more like a 650 with two more stations.....but they fumbled out of the gate over the priming system. When Dillon came out with their 650 it was way above anything else out there and the flaws were held as minor annoyances for the most part ignored until they were fixed. RCBS on the other hand came out with their 7 station press with the 650 and 1050 deeply entrenched, debugged, and with many happy customers. Not an easy market to enter with a new design yet to be debugged. I saw the possibilities....the general market hasn't yet, if they ever will. I love mine. Priming system now works fine, but I still prefer the Pro 2000's APS priming system, but I don't see a way to mod it in.

Now Frankford Arsenal is bravely trying to break in with their FX-10.....hope they succeed....Dillon really does need some competition. Can you say 10 stations? Supposed to come out end of 2021......and you only have to build a 3d printed bullet feeder.;) RCBS should have started with a case feeder/collator developed and offered. They just didn't risk quite enough. When you are owned by a conglomerate, decision making at that level is in the less dedicated overlord hands.


https://youtu.be/d6Dpi7-hEmk

[lablover]

I got your package lablover. Let the games begin!

Just curious are you using hex interface, or pin thru shaft? Which motor again?

I’m using both. Hex for APP pin for the Dillon. That showed up quick!

[lablover]

Lablover, I have already done some initial tests with some existing collator plates, and it's fairly clear what the issues are. I am right now printing a new plate where I basically "tightened the screws" a bit. I have reduced the diameter of the shaft hole, reduced the size of the bullet holes, and I changed the plate diameter to 181mm, which technically leaves .5 mm of clearance to the side of the collator. I can see one of the main issues is the nose of the bullet not making contact with the ramp to begin the flipping process. Depending on how my new plate works I will consider more changes from there, possibly with the ramp itself.

I figured the ramp was going to be the culprit! What Bullets are you testing? I assume the 160 gr. Those 190s are short as well. Look forward to what you come up with

[lablover]

Looks like TylerR is still on a roll!



Maybe it was supposed to be.....but it's aluminum unlike the Pro 2000 or the Dillon 1050 which are both cast iron....more like a 650 with two more stations.....but they fumbled out of the gate over the priming system. When Dillon came out with their 650 it was way above anything else out there and the flaws were held as minor annoyances for the most part ignored until they were fixed. RCBS on the other hand came out with their 7 station press with the 650 and 1050 deeply entrenched, debugged, and with many happy customers. Not an easy market to enter with a new design yet to be debugged. I saw the possibilities....the general market hasn't yet, if they ever will. I love mine.

Now Frankford Arsenal is bravely trying to break in.....hope they succeed....Dillon really does need some competition. Can you say 10 stations? Supposed to come out end of 2021......and you only have to build a 3d printed bullet feeder.;)


https://youtu.be/d6Dpi7-hEmk


Oh I wish I didn’t watch that! Wow, that’s the cats ***. I can see that being a hit if it’s built strong

[TylerR]

Oh I wish I didn’t watch that! Wow, that’s the cats ***. I can see that being a hit if it’s built strong and Priced Right

That think does look sweet.

[TylerR]

I went right to the 160's to make it hard right off the rip :) Nice looking boolits btw.

[lablover]

I went right to the 160's to make it hard right off the rip :) Nice looking boolits btw.

How you like those tiny lead .32s. And me with big meat hook hands....lol

[TylerR]

How you like those tiny lead .32s. And me with big meat hook hands....lol

Yes they are very very small. Saving those for last.

[o416]

Oh I wish I didn’t watch that! Wow, that’s the cats ***. I can see that being a hit if it’s built strong

Wow! If that press is as reliable as a Dillon, sign me up :D

I love what Dillon makes, but they are way too pricey in my opinion; let's not even talk about Mark 7, yikes!

I run an XL750 and was thinking of getting a RL1100, but what am I really getting for the extra $$$?

True, it has a better mechanical system, swaging capabilities and a casefeeder, but how is that worth an extra $1500???

The worst part of the RL1100 is the "7 station" crap. You can't even run a powder check and bullet feeder unless you seat/crimp in the last station.

Seriously Dillon, how about 10 stations for that kind of money.

[thump_rrr]

Looks like TylerR is still on a roll!



Maybe it was supposed to be.....but it's aluminum unlike the Pro 2000 or the Dillon 1050 which are both cast iron....more like a 650 with two more stations.....but they fumbled out of the gate over the priming system. When Dillon came out with their 650 it was way above anything else out there and the flaws were held as minor annoyances for the most part ignored until they were fixed. RCBS on the other hand came out with their 7 station press with the 650 and 1050 deeply entrenched, debugged, and with many happy customers. Not an easy market to enter with a new design yet to be debugged. I saw the possibilities....the general market hasn't yet, if they ever will. I love mine. Priming system now works fine, but I still prefer the Pro 2000's APS priming system, but I don't see a way to mod it in.

Now Frankford Arsenal is bravely trying to break in with their FX-10.....hope they succeed....Dillon really does need some competition. Can you say 10 stations? Supposed to come out end of 2021......and you only have to build a 3d printed bullet feeder.;) RCBS should have started with a case feeder/collator developed and offered. They just didn't risk quite enough. When you are owned by a conglomerate, decision making at that level is in the less dedicated overlord hands.


https://youtu.be/d6Dpi7-hEmk
Check out the Mark 7 Evolution if you want to see something that can give Dillon a run for their money.

[o416]

Check out the Mark 7 Evolution if you want to see something that can give Dillon a run for their money.

They are way too expensive and use a Hornady casefeeder which is absolutely garbage. Unless you like being showered with brass while you reload :)

[TylerR]

They are way too expensive and use a Hornady casefeeder which is absolutely garbage. Unless you like being showered with brass while you reload :)

What’s the base cost? Could our feeders be used with the press ?

[djinnpb]

Oh I wish I didn’t watch that! Wow, that’s the cats ***. I can see that being a hit if it’s built strong and Priced Right


That think does look sweet.

Oh man!! That really is impressive. I might have drooled on my keyboard. I never got a Dillon as much as I want just never pulled the trigger and been living with the Hornady LNL and my co-ax. But getting just the base unit and adding feeders could make that a winner. Now if they can hurry and release that!

[Macscotts56]

Drilling the hole is optional. It should just hang off the side.

I understand now. You connect the two pieces with the bolt making the angle adjustment while the bullet feeder is on the bench. Then you just hang the bullet feeder on the case feeder. I need to either purchase a bigger washer or a shorter bolt because my current washer slips into the Mount_Dillon_Base and the bolt then is too long to tighten against the Mount_Dillon_Hang_Base part. I'll add a change suggestion to the manual to call out a larger washer or shorter bolt.

*Edit: Nevermind I just saw anuccite added the bolt length change to the manual suggestions already.

[o416]

What’s the base cost? Could our feeders be used with the press ?

$3000 (USD) + shipping and tax.

I am sure this project could work with it. However, for the price you would pay, it is embarrassing that they would ship it with a crappy Hornady casefeeder.

I think they are going to replace that casefeeder with their "premium" version now that Lyman bought them.

[TylerR]

$3000 (USD) + shipping and tax.

I am sure this project could work with it. However, for the price you would pay, it is embarrassing that they would ship it with a crappy Hornady casefeeder.

I think they are going to replace that casefeeder with their "premium" version now that Lyman bought them.

Oiy that's not the price point I was hoping for. That's getting close to commercial. I was thinking under 2k.

[o416]

Oiy that's not the price point I was hoping for. That's getting close to commercial. I was thinking under 2k.

Yup! Let's hope this Frankford Arsenal unit shakes things up. I imagine it will be full of bugs though lol

[GWS]

Yup! Let's hope this Frankford Arsenal unit shakes things up. I imagine it will be full of bugs though lol

Gentlemen.....full of bug machines can be de-bugged.....if the company is committed to it. Dillon's machines were not bug free at first and at their high prices they could afford to fix em. The big thing is if the basic frame is strong enough.... I'm not willing to be the FX-10's beta driver.....unless it's free or broken returnable. At least I knew that RCBS made strong frames with a lifetime guarantee. Commitment was lacking at the above RCBS corporate level, but the basic quality is there....RCBS is a good company....not as enamored with their parent company....

[memsu]

Long time lurker of the forum, but now that I have a 3D printer I'm definitely going to try printing the bullet feeder.

I have a Hornady LNL AP press and made a bullet tray. Well my design led to something I think could be used to support the bullet feeder when mounted to the press.

I can change out the dovetail for my bullet tray for something that would support a 1" tube or square tube.

I could make the bottom support solid so the rod has something to sit on and then the upper support could be some type of clamp design. This way the tube would be supported in 2 locations on the frame of the press.

What do you think?

So, will a 1" piece of emt conduit work for the bullet feeder support?

276168

276169

276171

[TylerR]

OK, so I have something of interest to report. Remember how I said above that my motors don't ruin collator plates, they just stop when they jam up? Well I started doing testing on lablovers boolits with my newest feeder which uses the mcmaster motor, the proximity sensor and simple on/off rheostat and on the first jam all I got was "crrruuunnncchh". So now I am not sure if it is the mcmaster motor having more torque, or the different electronics. It wasn't pleasant and I can see how people are destroying plates. So Impala68 please feel free to comment and shed whatever light you can for me.

[TylerR]

This is why I have arduino uno with a motor shield. It is limiting the torque by constantly measuring the power consumption. With the motor shield and the sensor shield stacked on top of the uno it is almost plug and play. If anyone is interested I will do my best to get a parts breakdown and wiring diagram completed.

tanders, please give us some details on the parts needed and any wiring diagrams you can come up with. I am very interested.

[Anuccite]

OK, so I have something of interest to report. Remember how I said above that my motors don't ruin collator plates, they just stop when they jam up? Well I started doing testing on lablovers boolits with my newest feeder which uses the mcmaster motor, the proximity sensor and simple on/off rheostat and on the first jam all I got was "crrruuunnncchh". So now I am not sure if it is the mcmaster motor having more torque, or the different electronics. It wasn't pleasant and I can see how people are destroying plates. So Impala68 please feel free to comment and shed whatever light you can for me.

It's back a few pages, But I talked about building the center of the plate at 100% to help eliminate this....

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5087528&viewfull=1#post5087528

[TylerR]

It's back a few pages, But I talked about building the center of the plate at 100% to help eliminate this....

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5087528&viewfull=1#post5087528

I am totally going to take advantage of this, but I still don't like the idea of the motor over torquing.

[Anuccite]

I am totally going to take advantage of this, but I still don't like the idea of the motor over torquing.

Agreed if we can negate that with some electronics.... I'm in

276207

[noacess]

All of my jams thus far have only forced the set screw in my hex coupler out (and ripped a few threads out in the process). I think ruining hex couplers is preferable to ruining plates. That being said, I've printed my last few plates with 100% infill around the hex hole. Either way, I'm looking forward to giving tander's solution a shot.

[GWS]

The other obvious option is what I did by using a power supply of less voltage. Granted it makes less torque, and speed. But in my case the motor was a 24RPM with high torque....5 volts made it way better in every way. It even runs cooler, so I'm really not concerned with somehow damaging the motor. But for a slower geared motor like yours, you might, just for fun, try a 9Volt wall wart ... May be just the ticket to tame that beast! ;)

Sorry you're having a bad motor day.....

Jams now are just silent stops just like the little bitty motor on Ammo Mikes base. I still flip the switch as soon as I can on a jamb, but I don't have to hurry to save the plate from wallering out the hex....glad it wasn't the tee pin.

Finding an amp sensing shutoff is worth a try tho. I wouldn't ignore such either.

[djinnpb]

So excited about the new 2mm wall drop tubes. And I did the one in clear and took some pics and a video. kinda cool to see the infill in there. Might try to light them or something fancy to see the goods in there.


https://youtu.be/413dfvvWMiI

Thanks again on those. Made all the difference. I've also got the preferred sensor still on the way.. looking like Friday delivery. But now I see why it's absolutely preferred over the photocell. For me it was dreading the time to make another cable where as these are ready to go.

[lablover]

OK, so I have something of interest to report. Remember how I said above that my motors don't ruin collator plates, they just stop when they jam up? Well I started doing testing on lablovers boolits with my newest feeder which uses the mcmaster motor, the proximity sensor and simple on/off rheostat and on the first jam all I got was "crrruuunnncchh". So now I am not sure if it is the mcmaster motor having more torque, or the different electronics. It wasn't pleasant and I can see how people are destroying plates. So Impala68 please feel free to comment and shed whatever light you can for me.

Please don’t ruin a motor over this. But trust me I know the feeling! Did it several times with the same motor.

[lablover]

So excited about the new 2mm wall drop tubes. And I did the one in clear and took some pics and a video. kinda cool to see the infill in there. Might try to light them or something fancy to see the goods in there.


https://youtu.be/413dfvvWMiI

Thanks again on those. Made all the difference. I've also got the preferred sensor still on the way.. looking like Friday delivery. But now I see why it's absolutely preferred over the photocell. For me it was dreading the time to make another cable where as these are ready to go.

I printer an entire collator with the clear! Got the motor mounted and that’s as far as I got. Too much time at work has put a real crimp (pun intended) in my loading and shooting. It’s pretty slick to see all the infill etc

[onelight]

OK, so I have something of interest to report. Remember how I said above that my motors don't ruin collator plates, they just stop when they jam up? Well I started doing testing on lablovers boolits with my newest feeder which uses the mcmaster motor, the proximity sensor and simple on/off rheostat and on the first jam all I got was "crrruuunnncchh". So now I am not sure if it is the mcmaster motor having more torque, or the different electronics. It wasn't pleasant and I can see how people are destroying plates. So Impala68 please feel free to comment and shed whatever light you can for me.
Sounds like it needs a slip clutch off a tiny brush hog :)

[bigmike111]

Agreed if we can negate that with some electronics.... I'm in

276207

Are you doing that in Cura? I'm currently using Prusa and thinking about learning cura just for the plates.

I jumped on cura with a plate the other day and the print time was nearly twice as long for .2 detail on the stock settings.:shock::shock:

[bigmike111]

On another note, I think this may be Tyler's photo but I wanted to see if anyone had the STL for the adapter pictured below for the dillon casefeeder.

276239

[TylerR]

Sounds like it needs a slip clutch off a tiny brush hog :)

I think that is my next project. I am going to create a slip clutch for these plates. Always something new to do :)

[TylerR]

On another note, I think this may be Tyler's photo but I wanted to see if anyone had the STL for the adapter pictured below for the dillon casefeeder.

276239

It is my pic. I have it somewhere. Give me a bit to find it and I will post it up.

[GWS]

No just a single throw on/off, since with the 5volt p.s. it's slow enough to not need a speed control for the rife brass I'm using it for at the moment. ;)

That said, I just ordered another speed control, but this one is just speed control not a switched speed control. Covering my bases. ;_

What I didn't like about the other speed control is that you had to set it just so every time you turn it on. Separating the on/off makes it so I can leave the speed control alone, and just turn the collator power on. But the setup without the s.c. will work fine and maybe I'll use the new one coming or not....depends on if I need it for other uses.......

This is what I just ordered.....

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QVONO20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

More expensive than the old one, but I don't want the power switch.....I think it was too weak.

I like eggs, but hate egg on my face..... That new PWM speed control showed up......it was delivered today....I just assumed it was about the size of the other one.....should read the fine print.....geeze....if I use it I will have to find a spot for another box......nuts! Nearly for times bigger....

https://i.postimg.cc/C1HFGJkZ/IMG-3814.jpg

Maybe I could just make a box for close to where the power supply is and splice the cord from the power supply to the switch.....then again, should it be before the relay or after....? I am not an electronics wiz. What do the electronic wizards think?

[tanders]

Tyler,

I am sorry if I cannot get this all explained tonight. I will try my best.

Electronics
1 x Power switch
1 x Arduino Uno (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GRTSV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Cheaper alternative (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWOE0UU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
1 x Uno Motor Shield v3 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084ZQF3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- I believe this is a cheaper alternative I have purchased it but have yet to be able to test it. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y1J34P3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Uno Sensor shield (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXRXCAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Connectors for sensor shield (https://www.amazon.com/ZYAMY-Female-Connector-Multicolor-Breadboard/dp/B07777HDBT/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=dupont+3p&qid=1611804953&sr=8-5)
4 x 10k potentiometers (previous purchase no details other than 10k)
2 x leds (previous purchase - I had 3mm leds)
1 x push button (momentary - Normally Open -previous purchase)
Resistors - 2 x 220 ohm, 1 x 10k ohm, and if you are using a proximity sensor you will need to calculate your step down resistor required.


This project can be done without a sensor shield but wiring is going to be a lot more complicated.

276243

I do not have a wiring diagram other than this currently but shows how each of the potentiometers, leds and buttons will hook up to the uno. I will try to come up with something to display the wiring shield and how it greatly assists in this.

The arduino sketch and libraries required can be found at the following link https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qvxeSESv05_flYPvvEzxbVYxAPkNOdeS?usp=sharing

The following is my todo list with this project:
Sensor Shield Wiring diagram
Create a reverse function to try to unjam without assistance before returning to forward direction.
Possible screen to eliminate the need for potentiometer or led wiring.

I know I missed quite a few items let me know of your questions.

[GWS]

I redesigned my Elect. box for the toggle switch and relay, and gave it lots more air. Printed it last night......and I'm happy to say my warping problems printing PLA is history....finally. I had to lower the nozzle and bed temperatures and I got perfect prints. See how the transition piece fits nicely now? You can barely tell it's a separate part. Dropped first layer nozzle and bed temps from 220/80 first layer, 215/70 second and beyond to 115/70 first layer, 110/60 beyond and all warping became history. Still using and loving the polypropylene bed....it sticks much better now.

https://i.postimg.cc/wjygf9DY/IMG_3810.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/y8MB22Tg/IMG_3808.jpg
Also printed one for my new gun metal base....this version has a sleeve for the relay. In effect, this version is deeper for the relay, and is lots more "holy" for ventilation.;)
https://i.postimg.cc/LsjRSvyy/IMG_3811.jpg

[thump_rrr]

I think that is my next project. I am going to create a slip clutch for these plates. Always something new to do :)

I posted pics of the slip clutch on the Hornady plates a couple of pages back.
I can disassemble for better pics if you like.

[Anuccite]

Are you doing that in Cura? I'm currently using Prusa and thinking about learning cura just for the plates.

I jumped on cura with a plate the other day and the print time was nearly twice as long for .2 detail on the stock settings.:shock::shock:

Interesting... Yes I am using Cura.... I've read it can be done in prusa with "Modifier" box or cylinder, then change it to 0% infill in the modifier.

Printing another 9mm plate, and I was about to run out of filament..... so I cut off the black flush, and with a little panicking and forcing new filament in... This was the end result.... I kinda like how it came out!

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[Rcmaveric]

Depending the printer and most can. You could of just paused the print. Then replaced the filament. Looks cool though.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[Anuccite]

Depending the printer and most can. You could of just paused the print. Then replaced the filament. Looks cool though.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

I saw videos on two methods.... I choose the risky one! :mrgreen::mrgreen::twisted::twisted:

[GWS]

Good to know you can do that......I was wondering what you do with all the "short" spools of filament.....Thanks for the education....;)

[Rcmaveric]

Good to know you can do that......I was wondering what you do with all the "short" spools of filament.....Thanks for the education....;)https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-join-or-fuse-filament-together

Fuse them together.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[Anuccite]

Good to know you can do that......I was wondering what you do with all the "short" spools of filament.....Thanks for the education....;)

Something else to note... I tried the "pause" method this am.... using the onboard control panel.... But Octi-pi crashed when i did that... I'm doing a smaller print today, and I'm going to try and do the pause from within Octi-pi and see what happens....

[TylerR]

Something else to note... I tried the "pause" method this am.... using the onboard control panel.... But Octi-pi crashed when i did that... I'm doing a smaller print today, and I'm going to try and do the pause from within Octi-pi and see what happens....

On my Ender 5 I just use the change filament option that is part of the stock firmware. I use octoprint as well but have never tried it that way.

[TylerR]

My slip clutch is coming along nicely. Think you guys will like the final product.

Only issue is, and I hate to admit this, but it may require some support when printing the collator plate. Just no good way to add bevel to the bottom side of the "rotor disk".

[TylerR]

On another note, I think this may be Tyler's photo but I wanted to see if anyone had the STL for the adapter pictured below for the dillon casefeeder.


I only ever designed the large version, but it should work with a 13mm spring and their large tube. Posted.

[Anuccite]

My slip clutch is coming along nicely. Think you guys will like the final product.

Only issue is, and I hate to admit this, but it may require some support when printing the collator plate. Just no good way to add bevel to the bottom side of the "rotor disk".

I will volunteer to test

[stanford]

Good to know you can do that......I was wondering what you do with all the "short" spools of filament.....Thanks for the education....;)

Personally I think this is the best filament runout sensor you can get. If your filament jams the extruder will move to the side and wait for you to fix it, it you run out of filament the same will happen. I got tired of failed prints or the electricity going out in the middle of long prints so I use that sensor now. Just today (no clue what happened) my nozzle said it was warming up when I got home, I thought my print completed this morning when I was at work but it didn't. When I got home and saw the extruder parked on the size waiting I wondered what happened. The bed was still hot so the print didn't dislodge. My filament was stuck inside the nozzle, once I fixed that problem the print completed within 1-1/2 hrs. That was a 14 hour print.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjFqvrFi8DuAhUM28AKHVUsDpEYABAEGgJpbQ&sig=AOD64_1C4Nyie6sAPAa5LXdslTWtgUXh6w&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjwsOvFi8DuAhXbQs0KHWsMD_MQ9aACegQIBxBB&adurl=

[stanford]

On my Ender 5 I just use the change filament option that is part of the stock firmware. I use octoprint as well but have never tried it that way.

Tyler, is that the pro or plus? I have been seriously considering getting an ender 5 but the only think that stops me is I already have 4 printers. Plus, if I get another printer I have a bad habit of tearing everything apart then replacing the system board, extruder, pretty much everything on the printer with better parts. And this is even before I use it for the first time.

[TylerR]

Tyler, is that the pro or plus? I have been seriously considering getting an ender 5 but the only think that stops me is I already have 4 printers. Plus, if I get another printer I have a bad habit of tearing everything apart then replacing the system board, extruder, pretty much everything on the printer with better parts. And this is even before I use it for the first time.

It just a stock Ender 5 that I upgraded the power supply on.

[TylerR]

I will volunteer to test

Are you using pin thru shaft or hex mount?

[TylerR]

So excited about the new 2mm wall drop tubes. And I did the one in clear and took some pics and a video. kinda cool to see the infill in there. Might try to light them or something fancy to see the goods in there.

Thanks again on those. Made all the difference. I've also got the preferred sensor still on the way.. looking like Friday delivery. But now I see why it's absolutely preferred over the photocell. For me it was dreading the time to make another cable where as these are ready to go.


I want to see some kind of multi color reloading session. Now that would be cool!

[Rcmaveric]

I want to see some kind of multi color reloading session. Now that would be cool!Couple of different ways to do that. You can buy multicolor filament. You can splice the colors you want together your self with the link I posted earlier. Or use the manual pause and then swap out. There is a way to program the slicer to pause at various heights for color swaps. You program it the same way you do a temp tower.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Couple of different ways to do that. You can buy multicolor filament. You can splice the colors you want together your self with the link I posted earlier. Or use the manual pause and then swap out. There is a way to program the slicer to pause at various heights for color swaps. You program it the same way you do a temp tower.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Very interesting and informative link, Rcmaveric.....had no idea you could do any of that. Thanks!

[Gussers]

Hey, I have a question. I searched through the many pages here and didn't see it asked yet. I built the AmmoMike bulletfeeder using the 370 motor. So far, so good. I am planning to print the larger case feeder and was thinking of using the larger version of the 370 I found. It has about double the torque. One thing I see now (and in the documentation) is the motor orientation is such that it will block one set of mounting holes. I see there are three choices (90, 180 and 270 degrees).

My question is why only orient the motor over the holes. Has anyone tried orienting the motor at 135 or 225 degrees? I did a (poor) tinkercad example of what I'm thinking. If the motor was oriented this way, it appears it should't interfere with the various mounting options. At least the holes are all exposed. This would be the same principle for the larger case feeder. Mainly, it would allow some of us to use the cheaper motor like THIS (https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Greartisan&qid=1611943700&sr=8-4&th=1). The linked motor seems to have similar torque specs to the recommended one (40kg/cm) at half the cost.

Forgive my poor tinkercad attempt at illustrating my suggestion. It's not properly scaled, but you should get the idea.
276325

[Rcmaveric]

Probably the perfectionist in us likes things straight.

With Tinker CAD it's pretty easy to fill in the holes with a block and create your own mount holes.

TinkerCAD has some pretty powerfull abilities that are hidden. Once you learn them it makes doing things like mount holes quick and easy.

I keep trying to learn FreeCAD. But those programs aren't easy or intuitive. Tinkercad is easy and I can do some pretty nifty functional pieces and designs.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[djinnpb]

Got my PRD18-14DN2 in and tested with the original thicker wall drop tuber that gave me issues with the other sensors for brass.. Works like a champ even with jiggling. So indeed not all sensors are created equal and the PRD18-14DN2 is truly the better one out there. One handy bit with the induction sensors is being able to quickly power them from a bench supply and quickly test them out. I am a convert now!

[Gussers]

Unfortunately, Tinkercad can't load the base, it's too big a file. Also, the hole placement seems optimal to me. The rearmost holes are best for being able to mount the body and tilt it rearward. The bracket is also placed under the weight of the bullets or cases as opposed to the side where there is more leverage. I also noticed printing the AM bullet feeder there are 3 different files. What I'm suggesting is the offset of the motor would mean all those versions aren't necessary as the 45 degree mounting would allow access to all the existing holes. There could be one body for the smaller 370 motor and one body for the larger version of that motor. It's also the difference between buying a $28 motor and a $75 motor. If the less expensive one has the same specs and the only downside is it interferes with mounting, they why not change the mounting slightly so it doesn't interfere? It simplifies the number of versions that need to be maintained and lowers the overall cost considerably.

[TylerR]

Well the good news is my slip clutch works beautifully. The bad news for lablover is that even though I have the 160's dropping thru the collator hole reliably, they tend to get caught up somewhere else on the way down. 190's are working nicely.

[TylerR]

Unfortunately, Tinkercad can't load the base, it's too big a file. Also, the hole placement seems optimal to me. The rearmost holes are best for being able to mount the body and tilt it rearward. The bracket is also placed under the weight of the bullets or cases as opposed to the side where there is more leverage. I also noticed printing the AM bullet feeder there are 3 different files. What I'm suggesting is the offset of the motor would mean all those versions aren't necessary as the 45 degree mounting would allow access to all the existing holes. There could be one body for the smaller 370 motor and one body for the larger version of that motor. It's also the difference between buying a $28 motor and a $75 motor. If the less expensive one has the same specs and the only downside is it interferes with mounting, they why not change the mounting slightly so it doesn't interfere? It simplifies the number of versions that need to be maintained and lowers the overall cost considerably.

Which motor are you considering?

[Gussers]

Which motor are you considering?

Something like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Greartisan&qid=1611943700&sr=8-4&th=1). I'm using the smaller 370 type motor now on the bullet feeder. I can see the bigger motor would probably be better on the larger case collator. The torque specs appear to be similar to the 12v gear motor (https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/) from McMaster.

[noacess]

Something like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Greartisan&qid=1611943700&sr=8-4&th=1). I'm using the smaller 370 type motor now on the bullet feeder. I can see the bigger motor would probably be better on the larger case collator. The torque specs appear to be similar to the 12v gear motor (https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/) from McMaster.

The motor you linked works with the Main_Body_M634JS body. Thats the motor I use.

[bigmike111]

The motor you linked works with the Main_Body_M634JS body. Thats the motor I use.

How is that motor working out for you? I am considering trying that motor because the Mcmaster/Grainger motors are a little excessive for this application.

[lablover]

Well the good news is my slip clutch works beautifully. The bad news for lablover is that even though I have the 160's dropping thru the collator hole reliably, they tend to get caught up somewhere else on the way down. 190's are working nicely.

Looking forward to what you did. I’m going to abandon the 160s as I now don’t thing they control recoil that much compared to the 190s. Btw, the 190s are my favorite bullet. As a matter of fact the 190s result is fabulous news! And the clutch! Can’t wait to see that.

[RedlegEd]

Hi all,
Does anyone here use a 3mm printer? In my old age and lack of attention to detail, I inadvertently ordered some 2.85mm Black Polymaker Polymax instead of the normal 1.75mm. If so, and you'd be interested in a trade or purchasing my oversize filament, please shoot me a PM. Unfortunately, I already opened the sealed bag when I realized what I did, so I can't return it to Amazon.
Thanks,
Ed

[TylerR]

Looking forward to what you did. I’m going to abandon the 160s as I now don’t thing they control recoil that much compared to the 190s. Btw, the 190s are my favorite bullet. As a matter of fact the 190s result is fabulous news! And the clutch! Can’t wait to see that.

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.

https://youtu.be/MozukFK32LY

276357

276361

[RedlegEd]

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.

https://youtu.be/MozukFK32LY

276357

Excellent! Does exactly what it should do. great job.
Ed

[djinnpb]

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.

https://youtu.be/MozukFK32LY

276357

276361

That slip clutch looks like it works really well! How cool is that!!

[TylerR]

Thanks guys. I just posted the files. There are two versions, one with a 10mm shaft diameter and one with an 8.5mm shaft.
I also posted a new version of the generator to create the plate. It has a new parameter:

// SHAFT SLIP CLUTCH
useClutch = true; // Allows use of a slip clutch

Also, the collator plate needs to be printed with supports to handle the bottom side of the clutch rotor.

You can use two #6 x 1/2" or 3mm screws, and a couple of lock nuts. If you are using it on a really thick plate (anything over 15 mm or so), there is also a cover to cover the center hole. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Oh and sorry hex guys but there is no hex version yet.

[31QjVP]

I wouldn't want to share my Gcode file, as it may not be right for your printer....

If you followed the instructions on creating a Collator plate in the Documentation, and then used your slicer, with the video.... You should be all set.

I think you may have mis-understood. I'm not looking for the GCode, I'm looking for a good STL. The problem I have is with the collator plate that OpenSCAD is generating. It only has 3 brass slots when there is room around the edges for more. I was looking for anyone possibly having a good STL file from OpenSCAD. Or, if anyone has guidance on how to get more slots in the generated plate I'd be open to that as well.

And to be sure I'm clear, here is what I see in OpenSCAD using the sample config provided for large rifle. Seeing as the STL file that is included in the download has a large brass plate with more slots, I was hoping the generator could be able to do same.
276365

[TylerR]

I think you may have mis-understood. I'm not looking for the GCode, I'm looking for a good STL. The problem I have is with the collator plate that OpenSCAD is generating. It only has 3 brass slots when there is room around the edges for more. I was looking for anyone possibly having a good STL file from OpenSCAD. Or, if anyone has guidance on how to get more slots in the generated plate I'd be open to that as well.

And to be sure I'm clear, here is what I see in OpenSCAD using the sample config provided for large rifle. Seeing as the STL file that is included in the download has a large brass plate with more slots, I was hoping the generator could be able to do same.


You need to play around with the hole_multiplier param. The lower the number the more bullets hole/slots it will create.

hole_multiplier=1.5; // Modify the number of holes

[31QjVP]

You need to play around with the hole_multiplier param. The lower the number the more bullets hole/slots it will create.

hole_multiplier=1.5; // Modify the number of holes

Thank you! I figured I had to be missing something. Much better now, set it down to 1 and have what I was trying to get.

[TylerR]

Thank you! I figured I had to be missing something. Much better now, set it down to 1 and have what I was trying to get.

You bet! That generator will pretty much do anything but make your morning coffee at this point :)

[kc10kevin]

Thanks guys. I just posted the files. There are two versions, one with a 10mm shaft diameter and one with an 8.5mm shaft.
I also posted a new version of the generator to create the plate. It has a new parameter:

// SHAFT SLIP CLUTCH
useClutch = true; // Allows use of a slip clutch

Also, the collator plate needs to be printed with supports to handle the bottom side of the clutch rotor.

You can use two #6 x 1/2" or 3mm screws, and a couple of lock nuts. If you are using it on a really thick plate (anything over 15 mm or so), there is also a cover to cover the center hole. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Oh and sorry hex guys but there is no hex version yet.

Awesome!!! Love the clutch. I see your comment...no Hex version. "Yet." I assume you are planning on making one for us Hex guys? I don't have any shafts drilled/pinned. Something like this?

276366
276367

[thump_rrr]

Thanks guys. I just posted the files. There are two versions, one with a 10mm shaft diameter and one with an 8.5mm shaft.
I also posted a new version of the generator to create the plate. It has a new parameter:

// SHAFT SLIP CLUTCH
useClutch = true; // Allows use of a slip clutch

Also, the collator plate needs to be printed with supports to handle the bottom side of the clutch rotor.

You can use two #6 x 1/2" or 3mm screws, and a couple of lock nuts. If you are using it on a really thick plate (anything over 15 mm or so), there is also a cover to cover the center hole. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Oh and sorry hex guys but there is no hex version yet.

Amazing work Tyler.
I've been scouring the forum tying to determine pin dimensions and placement.
So far the only mention I've found was on page 59 mentioning a 5/32" diameter pin.

[bigmike111]

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.

https://youtu.be/MozukFK32LY

276357

276361

Great work as usual.

You know what else is awesome about this is the fact that now there is a center piece that can be printed at a greater infill percentage and/or additional walls for a stronger part that doesn't effect the rest of the plate which can be printed at a lower wall/infill percentage using less filament and taking less time. It likely won't matter at this point because with the clutch action the possibility of damaging the plates is almost non existent.

[bigmike111]

Amazing work Tyler.
I've been scouring the forum tying to determine pin dimensions and placement.
So far the only mention I've found was on page 55 mentioning a 5/32" diameter pin.

I drilled a 1/8" hole and used a 1/8"x1" roll pin, it seems to work well.

[thump_rrr]

I drilled a 1/8" hole and used a 1/8"x1" roll pin, it seems to work well.

How far from the end of the shaft?

[thump_rrr]

Awesome!!! Love the clutch. I see your comment...no Hex version. "Yet." I assume you are planning on making one for us Hex guys? I don't have any shafts drilled/pinned. Something like this?

276366

What dimension is that hex?
This is evolving faster than I can print LOL

[kc10kevin]

What dimension is that hex?
This is evolving faster than I can print LOL

12.4mm. I just threw it together as a possible example. Nothing even printed or tested. It's for this hex adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V55PGQZ/

[kc10kevin]

I drilled a 1/8" hole and used a 1/8"x1" roll pin, it seems to work well.

Sorry for the ignorance. I've read every single post in this thread plus searched Google. Apologize for the stupid question, but if I decide to drill out my shafts, where do you get the roll pins from? Thanks in advance!

[thump_rrr]

Sorry for the ignorance. I've read every single post in this thread plus searched Google. Apologize for the stupid question, but if I decide to drill out my shafts, where do you get the roll pins from? Thanks in advance!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-8-in-x-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Tension-Pins-2-Piece-809318/204225883

[thump_rrr]

12.4mm. I just threw it together as a possible example. Nothing even printed or tested. It's for this hex adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V55PGQZ/

Would you mind posting up the STL file?
If it can save me the trouble of pinning my shaft I don't mind being the guinea pig.

[kc10kevin]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-8-in-x-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Tension-Pins-2-Piece-809318/204225883

Thanks so much!

[o416]

Thanks guys. I just posted the files. There are two versions, one with a 10mm shaft diameter and one with an 8.5mm shaft.
I also posted a new version of the generator to create the plate. It has a new parameter:

// SHAFT SLIP CLUTCH
useClutch = true; // Allows use of a slip clutch

Also, the collator plate needs to be printed with supports to handle the bottom side of the clutch rotor.

You can use two #6 x 1/2" or 3mm screws, and a couple of lock nuts. If you are using it on a really thick plate (anything over 15 mm or so), there is also a cover to cover the center hole. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Oh and sorry hex guys but there is no hex version yet.

Looks amazing man! I will update the manual. Also, I would appreciate a hex version for the clutch lol I am too scared to drill the shaft on my motor :/

[bigmike111]

How far from the end of the shaft?

I can look tomorrow but I think it’s roughly 3/16” - 1/4” from the end.

[bigmike111]

Looks amazing man! I will update the manual. Also, I would appreciate a hex version for the clutch lol I am too scared to drill the shaft on my motor :/

If you have access to a lunch and a drill press it’s not bad. I used a pair of vice grips to hold it to the platform and it took 5 seconds to go through.

[djinnpb]

I can look tomorrow but I think it’s roughly 3/16” - 1/4” from the end.

I'm using Dayton motors. I did both of mine 4mm from the end and 4mm centered. I cheated though and put it in a mill to drill then same as bigmike111 1/8" x 1" pin.

[Anuccite]

Are you using pin thru shaft or hex mount?

I'm Using the Hex.... with the Gearestain motor

[Anuccite]

How is that motor working out for you? I am considering trying that motor because the Mcmaster/Grainger motors are a little excessive for this application.

I like that motor.... The Price was right, And even though the documentation says it might cause mounting issues, I've not had any

[Anuccite]

Thanks guys. I just posted the files. There are two versions, one with a 10mm shaft diameter and one with an 8.5mm shaft.
I also posted a new version of the generator to create the plate. It has a new parameter:

// SHAFT SLIP CLUTCH
useClutch = true; // Allows use of a slip clutch

Also, the collator plate needs to be printed with supports to handle the bottom side of the clutch rotor.

You can use two #6 x 1/2" or 3mm screws, and a couple of lock nuts. If you are using it on a really thick plate (anything over 15 mm or so), there is also a cover to cover the center hole. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Oh and sorry hex guys but there is no hex version yet.

Patiently awating the hex version! In the mean time I will print another Base! With My New Dillon Blue

[Anuccite]

This is almost an exact match to the dillon blue, prints well and is very strong. And it's actually in stock at the moment.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0883FS7PH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What temp are you running that at? I am printing a temp tower now... and It HATES 200 so far!

[thump_rrr]

How does this look for placement?
It’s 3/16” from the top of the Dayton motor.
That will leave 1/8” from the top of the pin.
https://i.postimg.cc/4dfHCvp9/391-EC5-C8-E890-46-DB-8-A24-37-F2-E7275-D4-E.jpg (https://postimg.cc/WDy1gkWN)

[bigmike111]

I like that motor.... The Price was right, And even though the documentation says it might cause mounting issues, I've not had any

I think the only issue I’d have is with pinning the shaft, it appears it’s much shorter than the Dayton I’m using.

[Anuccite]

I think the only issue I’d have is with pinning the shaft, it appears it’s much shorter than the Dayton I’m using.

It is, I went the hex coupler method.... and and now with the clutch plates... This should work out nicely

[TylerR]

Printing up a hex version now of the clutch and assuming it looks good I will post it.

[TylerR]

I assume the general consensus is I should regenerate the stock collator plates to use the new slip clutch?

[RedlegEd]

What temp are you running that at? I am printing a temp tower now... and It HATES 200 so far!

Hi,
I'm using the same filament with a 0.4mm nozzle, and I'm printing the initial layer at 220°/55°, then dropping to 210°/55° for the rest on an Ender 3 or CR-6SE and I'm having good success with that.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi,
I'm using the same filament with a 0.4mm nozzle, and I'm printing the initial layer at 220°/55°, then dropping to 210°/55° for the rest on an Ender 3 or CR-6SE and I'm having good success with that.
Ed

I use 220/80 and then 210/70. I am also running my printer in a cold basement, so I have to go a little hotter then probably most people.

[Macscotts56]

I assume the general consensus is I should regenerate the stock collator plates to use the new slip clutch?

Yes, that would be appreciated and people can also use the plate generator as well. I just downloaded the most recent folder from the shared downloads link and the Collator Plate Generator does not have the clutch option. I did a text search and didn't find the option. Has anyone else downloaded the updated version yet?

[TylerR]

Yes, that would be appreciated and people can also use the plate generator as well. I just downloaded the most recent folder from the shared downloads link and the Collator Plate Generator does not have the clutch option. I did a text search and didn't find the option. Has anyone else downloaded the updated version yet?

I posted the files temporarily but took them back down in preparation of posting the entire complete package. My hex clutch works great so just need to re-gen all the plates, then I will post it.

[lablover]

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.

https://youtu.be/MozukFK32LY

276357

276361

I haven’t had the time to look at the files but the plate is the only change you made to make those 190s to work? The current ramp is the same? Looks outstanding!

[TylerR]

I haven’t had the time to look at the files but the plate is the only change you made to make those 190s to work? The current ramp is the same? Looks outstanding!

Yes, everything is the same except the collator plate. I tightened everything up. Dropped the shaft hole from 10mm to 8.5mm. Increased the plate diameter to 180.5mm. Changed the caliber from 11.5 to 11.2mm. Played around with different slide plates to see which one they liked. #9 works good or #10 pulled out slightly. I also used #12 spring adapters and sanded and used acetone on them to make them as smooth as possible.

Like I said, I have the 160's getting to the drop hole fine, they just tend to get jammed somewhere else on the way down.

[GWS]

okay......guess I'm the only dumb guy.....what's the physics involved? What do the plates look like without the center clutch installed? I know it's friction....but between what? The two bolts screw into nuts underneath?

So this means all plates the same.....only the clutch changes between hex and pin? That'd be a good thing for sure.

[Anuccite]

okay......guess I'm the only dumb guy.....what's the physics involved? What do the plates look like without the center clutch installed? I know it's friction....but between what? The two bolts screw into nuts underneath?

So this means all plates the same.....only the clutch changes between hex and pin? That'd be a good thing for sure.

Here ya go... I was messing with the generator eariler... looks like same for Hex and Pin

276399

[TylerR]

okay......guess I'm the only dumb guy.....what's the physics involved? What do the plates look like without the center clutch installed? I know it's friction....but between what? The two bolts screw into nuts underneath?

So this means all plates the same.....only the clutch changes between hex and pin? That'd be a good thing for sure.


Here ya go... I was messing with the generator eariler... looks like same for Hex and Pin


Correct and correct :)

[lablover]

Yes, everything is the same except the collator plate. I tightened everything up. Dropped the shaft hole from 10mm to 8.5mm. Increased the plate diameter to 180.5mm. Changed the caliber from 11.5 to 11.2mm. Played around with different slide plates to see which one they liked. #9 works good or #10 pulled out slightly. I also used #12 spring adapters and sanded and used acetone on them to make them as smooth as possible.

Like I said, I have the 160's getting to the drop hole fine, they just tend to get jammed somewhere else on the way down.

Those 160s are just evil! Lol. Can’t thank you enough for the detailed work. Look forward to trying it all.

[TylerR]

Those 160s are just evil! Lol. Can’t thank you enough for the detailed work. Look forward to trying it all.

You're welcome my friend. Even with the 190's I suggest you smooth out any part that they pass thru. I used some 220 grit and then went to 320, then used some acetone. The edges of the boolit tend to want to stick on any ridge left by the printer.

[lablover]

You're welcome my friend. Even with the 190's I suggest you smooth out any part that they pass thru. I used some 220 grit and then went to 320, then used some acetone. The edges of the boolit tend to want to stick on any ridge left by the printer.

Outstanding tip. I hope to have some time to get some prints done. I did a print screen of your print settings

[TylerR]

Outstanding tip. I hope to have some time to get some prints done. I did a print screen of your print settings

New version is posted. All the slip clutch files are in the Collator Plates folder. Let me know how it goes.

[HuskJ]

Yes, everything is the same except the collator plate. I tightened everything up. Dropped the shaft hole from 10mm to 8.5mm. Increased the plate diameter to 180.5mm. Changed the caliber from 11.5 to 11.2mm. Played around with different slide plates to see which one they liked. #9 works good or #10 pulled out slightly. I also used #12 spring adapters and sanded and used acetone on them to make them as smooth as possible.

Like I said, I have the 160's getting to the drop hole fine, they just tend to get jammed somewhere else on the way down.

I mailed the 160 flat base no nube groove ones today

[o416]

New version is posted. All the slip clutch files are in the Collator Plates folder. Let me know how it goes.

Proceed with manual update? Or wait for feedback?

[TylerR]

Proceed with manual update? Or wait for feedback?

Based my testing I would say it's pretty damn solid. Print a new plate and slip clutch and let me know if you have any questions. You just need a couple #6 x 1/2" screws and lock nuts.

I am back to messing with the ramp now and other things because I have not given up on lablover's 160's just yet.

Oh and don't forget to use supports for the collator plates. Other wise you are going to get a big spaghetti mess on the bottom side of the rotor.

[TylerR]

I mailed the 160 flat base no nube groove ones today

I will keep an eye out for them. These are .45's as well? I wonder how much different they are from lablovers.

[TylerR]

I have put some thought in to the hex version of the new slip clutch regarding the set pin sticking out. With all the variations out there and the fact that it takes away from the limited surface area, I am not going to make any attempt to add a slot. If you are using hex the best thing to do is grind the pin down so when it is screwed in it sits flush.

[GWS]

I'm assuming the clutch is printed with PLA. And the bolts are tightened just so, so the thing turns the plate normally but allowed to slip when there is a bind. So then it continues turning, during the bind, at the friction-held joint.

So, since we know that PLA melts with heat applied as happens under friction, how long will this last before a new plate and clutch have to be printed........or what's to keep the molten joint from fusing as does every layer as we print with PLA? So am I over thinking this?

[TylerR]

I'm assuming the clutch is printed with PLA. And the bolts are tightened just so, so the thing turns the plate normally but allowed to slip when there is a bind. So then it continues turning, during the bind, at the friction-held joint.

So, since we know that PLA melts with heat applied as happens under friction, how long will this last before a new plate and clutch have to be printed........or what's to keep the molten joint from fusing as does every layer as we print with PLA? So am I over thinking this?

You are definitely over thinking this. You would have to be running your motor at top speed and leave it there for 5 minutes to generate any type of heat. Print one out and give it a try. This design will last you as long anything else does on this collator. The most you might have to ever do is tighten the screws a little more after a few hundred jams if you let it turn and turn. Trust me on this one.

[GWS]

And this from a guy who despises "supports" :) Must be worth it. Supports only to bed, right? I'm going to miss my tall handles and double hexes.....;)

[TylerR]

And this from a guy who despises "supports" :) Must be worth it. Supports only to bed, right? I'm going to miss my tall handles and double hexes.....;)

You know I do! haha :)
In this case it is worth the sacrifice I think. And the generator is still there, so anyone can create whatever they want. But I believe this is the way to go moving forward.

[TylerR]

Who wants to be the test pilot for my latest Long Rifle Bullet plate? I am trying to solve an issue where one bullet will get caught point down next to another that is point up. I believe putting the new slot where it is will allow them to fall out as they reach the top of the collator. I have not printed or tested it yet.

276513

[TylerR]

I also changed the ramp geometry slightly to assist in flipping the really short bullets, like lablover .45 160's. I have not attempted anything with his .32's yet.

[djinnpb]

Who wants to be the test pilot for my latest Long Rifle Bullet plate? I am trying to solve an issue where one bullet will get caught point down next to another that is point up. I believe putting the new slot where it is will allow them to fall out as they reach the top of the collator. I have not printed or tested it yet.

276513

I'm definitely down to try that. I use this plate more than anything since I do a lot of blkout. Also gives me a reason to try out the new slip clutch setup.

[TylerR]

I'm definitely down to try that. I use this plate more than anything since I do a lot of blkout. Also gives me a reason to try out the new slip clutch setup.

Sweet! Have you had any issues with the particular problem I described? Usually the short sweeper will clear them but not always.

I just posted it. This one is a perfect example of why I created the hole cover so print that as well.

[Anuccite]

I am currently in the middle of printing another base... 2 days 5 hours.....

After watching how this has been printing the walls The infill portion of the walls is taking all the time...... I started messing with varying levels of walls and infill..... I think I got it down to 1 day 7 hours... and it will be stronger... But only having one printer, I want to do a clutch plate next.

Basically What I did was Print(Slice) the Bottom at 2 Walls, 18% infill Gyroid
Which will look like this, Which I think will be plenty strong
276516
Then When It started Rising up the walls, I changed to 3 walls, 10% infill Gyroid, Which looks like this (It's almost solid now, and WAY faster than 2 walls 30%)
276517
276518

[Anuccite]

Infill printing in walls
Here is a close up
276519

https://youtu.be/eZWuN_kBfgg

[lablover]

I will keep an eye out for them. These are .45's as well? I wonder how much different they are from lablovers.

I’m curious as well. That lube groove will cause issues in the feeder die. Sometimes.

[TylerR]

I’m curious as well. That lube groove will cause issues in the feeder die. Sometimes.

You print any slip clutch collators yet my friend? :)

[djinnpb]

Sweet! Have you had any issues with the particular problem I described? Usually the short sweeper will clear them but not always.

I just posted it. This one is a perfect example of why I created the hole cover so print that as well.

I haven't had that issue. I didn't use the plate as generated though. What bullet did that happen with?

[TylerR]

I haven't had that issue. I didn't use the plate as generated though. What bullet did that happen with?

300BO Lee TL309-230-5R. When you say you didn't use it as generated what do you mean? And what bullet are you using it for?

[TylerR]

Just for the record, I would really love to see more videos, good or bad. So post some damn video! I want to see this thing in action. :)

[djinnpb]

300BO Lee TL309-230-5R. When you say you didn't use it as generated what do you mean? And what bullet are you using it for?

Generated to tighten the shaft parameters. I don't think I changed anything else.
I use NOE HTC310-247-FN-BO3 and 311-247 FN. I actually have a bit of Lee TL309-230-5R still I can test with them as well. I just don't load them too much these days. I also tried nosler 125gr BTs

[TylerR]

Generated to tighten the shaft parameters. I don't think I changed anything else.
I use NOE HTC310-247-FN-BO3 and 311-247 FN. I actually have a bit of Lee TL309-230-5R still I can test with them as well. I just don't load them too much these days. I also tried nosler 125gr BTs

Hex shaft or pin?

I am going to post up a couple new versions of that plate. I will let you decide which you like better and let me know. I don't see how they can have any adverse affect from the original but who knows?

[TylerR]

Just for the record I have tweaked a ton of parts today, but have not incremented the version. I will do that once o416 finishes the updated manual and parts generator. No pressure 0416. :)

[djinnpb]

Hex shaft or pin?

I am going to post up a couple new versions of that plate. I will let you decide which you like better and let me know. I don't see how they can have any adverse affect from the original but who knows?

both are pin. printing the slip parts now and should I wait on the plate or the one that's up there now worth starting a print with?

[TylerR]

both are pin. printing the slip parts now and should I wait on the plate or the one that's up there now worth starting a print with?

I did just make another minor tweak but I feel like the one up there is solid.

The new pin slip clutch is 8.5mm dia shaft. The old ones were 10mm which was too much slop.

[TylerR]

Heck with it. I am going to throw one on the printer myself. I need to take stock in a filament company.

[bigmike111]

Anyone have any issues with the new drop tubes? I saw this in the slicer before I printed, it is just two walls. I need to check my Esteps and make sure I’m extruding correctly.

276522

276523

[TylerR]

I am currently in the middle of printing another base... 2 days 5 hours.....

I don't understand why these take so long for some people. I am printing mine at .20 layer height, 4 walls and 20% infill and the last one took 34 hours.

[TylerR]

Anyone have any issues with the new drop tubes? I saw this in the slicer before I printed, it is just two walls. I need to check my Esteps and make sure I’m extruding correctly.


The top twist mount of the drop tube has always been thin. .8mm or something I think without looking. I have not made any changes with that

Edited: l stand corrected. They are exactly .41mm wide there. Which is why a .4mm nozzle and printing at .12 layer height is required.

[djinnpb]

I did just make another minor tweak but I feel like the one up there is solid.

The new pin slip clutch is 8.5mm dia shaft. The old ones were 10mm which was too much slop.

I grabbed the 8.5 one. I had printed all my plates with 8.2 so I am curious how these do.


Heck with it. I am going to throw one on the printer myself. I need to take stock in a filament company.

Hah! I bet your filament graveyard is pretty huge!


I don't understand why these take so long for some people. I am printing mine at .20 layer height, 4 walls and 20% infill and the last one took 34 hours.

So they always take me forever to print too. But partly because I use PETG and slow is the life and multiple printers I never am in a rush on something. But 34 hours isn't bad at all. Takes me 51 hours.

[TylerR]

Anyone have any issues with the new drop tubes? I saw this in the slicer before I printed, it is just two walls. I need to check my Esteps and make sure I’m extruding correctly.


Is that the 6mm tube btw?

Just checked and it looks like the 6mm version has a very small area that was less then .4mm (like .3961mm), which is a big no no.
Just fixed and will add it to new release.

[TylerR]

Hah! I bet your filament graveyard is pretty huge!

Its ridiculous. I have gone thru easily ten rolls just on test prints. That doesn't count all the filament for the "successful" prints. lol

[TylerR]

well here it goes. This plate takes a long time as well. Cura says 11 hours. And I will need to change filament sometime along the way. .2 layers, 2 walls, 10% infill. Yes the left side looks a little thin and close to the bed. Just made a minor level adjustment.

276524

[TylerR]

for anyone who wants a closeup of where the magic happens:
276525

[TylerR]

Generated to tighten the shaft parameters. I don't think I changed anything else.
I use NOE HTC310-247-FN-BO3 and 311-247 FN. I actually have a bit of Lee TL309-230-5R still I can test with them as well. I just don't load them too much these days. I also tried nosler 125gr BTs

Just curios djinnpb. Do you have any issues with the lee design? Are the NOE's just more accurate or better in other ways? I do powder coat these days, no more lube sizing for me.

[Anuccite]

That is exactly where the problem was on my current print..... I must have went to 2 walls for something..... and when I sliced before printing again, That's where the time was...

My fault.... Should be 30-34 hours.... 4 walls eliminates all fill in the walls

[djinnpb]

Just curios djinnpb. Do you have any issues with the lee design? Are the NOE's just more accurate or better in other ways? I do powder coat these days, no more lube sizing for me.

The Lee never would shoot well for me in my 9" barrels (what I used mostly) And powder coat too (man I skipped over the lube size and gas check life) but I used to stand them up to spray and the base on the lee always gave me fits there too. I've since seen the light and joined the shake and bake club. So much faster than making jigs and spraying. Granted spraying looks great but takes forever. You have luck with the lees design? If you want to try some of the NOE 247s let me know.


Its ridiculous. I have gone thru easily ten rolls just on test prints. That doesn't count all the filament for the "successful" prints. lol

Oh man I can only imagine.

[lablover]

You print any slip clutch collators yet my friend? :)

Not yet, wife’s uncle passed today so it’s been a crazy day with her elderly dad. Hope to get some knocked out in a day or so

[TylerR]

Not yet, wife’s uncle passed today so it’s been a crazy day with her elderly dad. Hope to get some knocked out in a day or so

Sorry for your loss my friend. My wife's Grandmother just passed 4 days ago so I have some idea. It's kind of tertiary but still affects you in a lot of ways.

[GWS]

I don't understand why these take so long for some people. I am printing mine at .20 layer height, 4 walls and 20% infill and the last one took 34 hours.

My last one was 60 hours and some small change.....variable layers from .20 to .12, 4 walls, 4 solid layers on the bottom 4 on top, with 18% infill. Maybe the variable wasn't worth it. How many solid bottom and top layers do you do?

Don't know if I will ever need to print another.....except if my brother talks me into making one for him. I'm just glad I finally found the reason for the warping.....guess my basement is not cold enough to use the heat you use. It quit warping when I lowered temps back to 215/70 first layer, and 210/60 the rest of the way..........and btw I'm really glad you haven't found a good reason to add a clutch to the bases.........;)

[GWS]

Its ridiculous. I have gone thru easily ten rolls just on test prints. That doesn't count all the filament for the "successful" prints. lol

That's easy to fix......just quit improving/changing things! Your wife probably agrees! :) But quit AFTER you try 45 degree angles on your clutch.

OK, if you won't just send me the cad file and I'll do it and waste my PLA......and who knows, cause you to print even more plates. Heh Heh! I just hate supports.....you taught me to.......

[lablover]

Sorry for your loss my friend. My wife's Grandmother just passed 4 days ago so I have some idea. It's kind of tertiary but still affects you in a lot of ways.

Thanks Buddy.

[TylerR]

That's easy to fix......just quit improving/changing things! Your wife probably agrees! :) But quit AFTER you try 45 degree angles on your clutch.

OK, if you won't just send me the cad file and I'll do it and waste my PLA......and who knows, cause you to print even more plates. Heh Heh! I just hate supports.....you taught me to.......

All I get here is I created another support hater. mission accomplished :)

But as my friend Ed taught me (APP_Base_Slide) sometimes supports can't be avoided. I could probably add a 45 degree bevel but it would only make the other problem you mentioned worse. The wear on that beveled edge will break down much quicker then a flat edge just like a car break rotor, and you would probably have to tighten the screws a lot sooner.

[GWS]

All I get here is I created another support hater. mission accomplished :)

But as my friend Ed taught me (APP_Base_Slide) sometimes supports can't be avoided. I could probably add a 45 degree bevel but it would only make the other problem you mentioned worse. The wear on that beveled edge will break down much quicker then a flat edge just like a car break rotor, and you would probably have to tighten the screws a lot sooner.

No it's still flat on flat and an even bigger surface area means slower wear since a diagonal is wider than the horizontal. Email me something with dimensions and I'll show you what I mean. // rather than = the top is still the same. Just the overhang of the plate and the lower horizontal of the bottom clutch piece would be angled. I'll make an un-dimensioned model to show you.

https://i.postimg.cc/Kc5gCQPQ/angled-clutch.png

See, no supports necessary, and more surface. That's what you get when you ask for my input, a PIA divergent. ;)
Car disc brakes are even worse....they are vertical.....

[kc10kevin]

I have put some thought in to the hex version of the new slip clutch regarding the set pin sticking out. With all the variations out there and the fact that it takes away from the limited surface area, I am not going to make any attempt to add a slot. If you are using hex the best thing to do is grind the pin down so when it is screwed in it sits flush.

Definitely a good idea. Here is what I did to get around the slot and grinding down the screw. Drilled out the hex adapter to lower it down some. Puts the screw below the plate. Added benefit of lowering the hex nut down now to engage the "meatier" part of the hex clutch plate.

276554
276555

[kc10kevin]

TylerR...Clutch plate working brilliantly!!! Already had a jam with the 9mm bullets at the drop tube/spring connection. Clutch spun and worked as advertised.

[TylerR]

No it's still flat on flat and an even bigger surface area means slower wear since a diagonal is wider than the horizontal. Email me something with dimensions and I'll show you what I mean. // rather than = the top is still the same. Just the overhang of the plate and the lower horizontal of the bottom clutch piece would be angled. I'll make an un-dimensioned model to show you.

See, no supports necessary, and more surface. That's what you get when you ask for my input, a PIA divergent. ;)
Car disc brakes are even worse....they are vertical.....

Yes, this is a great idea, and would work. Now do me a favor and go code it in openSCAD. :)

Seriously though I will make this change, but a two second change in DSM will take me at least an hour or so to match the bevel angle in openScad and probably a bunch of prints. But I like the way you think.

This:
translate([0,0,-collator_plate_h/2-1]) cylinder(d=39,h=10, center=true);

would have to be something more like this:
translate([0,0,-collator_plate_h/2+5]) cylinder(d1=40, d2=20,h=15, center=true);

But I would have to play with it like I said because everything I do with OpenScad is like poking with a sharp stick.

[TylerR]

TylerR...Clutch plate working brilliantly!!! Already had a jam with the 9mm bullets at the drop tube/spring connection. Clutch spun and worked as advertised.

Great to hear!

[TylerR]

OK so GWS twisted my arm and I am working to remove the need for supports on the collator plate :)

[GWS]

Yes, this is a great idea, and would work. Now do me a favor and go code it in openSCAD. :)

Seriously though I will make this change, but a two second change in DSM will take me at least an hour or so to match the bevel angle in openScad and probably a bunch of prints. But I like the way you think.

This:
translate([0,0,-collator_plate_h/2-1]) cylinder(d=39,h=10, center=true);

would have to be something more like this:
translate([0,0,-collator_plate_h/2+5]) cylinder(d1=40, d2=20,h=15, center=true);

But I would have to play with it like I said because everything I do with OpenScad is like poking with a sharp stick.

I know EXACTLY what you mean with OpenScad.....I love the ability to change on the fly though.....Oh Ed? Ed? Where's Ed when you need him!:) At least a 45 is easier than a 35.....since X is equal to Y. IOW's since d1 is 20 more than d2, then radius must be 10 more.....so h must be 10.....right? Is that diameter difference really 20mm?

In a perfect world Autocad would translate directly to OpenScad code.....So much easier to design in what I've used for 40 years, but impossible to make it editable like Mike's famous plate maker in OpenScad. Wish I was younger, I'd learn it, but it's like learning Chinese....all the grammer might as well be from another planet for my brain.

[kc10kevin]

OK so GWS twisted my arm and I am working to remove the need for supports on the collator plate :)

LOL...OK...guess I should stop printing plates then until you come up a final design. :-P

[TylerR]

I know EXACTLY what you mean with OpenScad.....I love the ability to change on the fly though.....Oh Ed? Ed? Where's Ed when you need him!:) At least a 45 is easier than a 35.....since X is equal to Y.

In a perfect world Autocad would translate directly to OpenScad code.....So much easier to design in what I've used for 40 years, but impossible to make it editable like Mike's famous plate maker in OpenScad. Wish I was younger, I'd learn it, but it's like learning Chinese....all the grammer might as well be from another planet for my brain.

Absolutely, and if you compare Mike's original version and what I have going on at this point they are very very different. A lot more stuff going on now.

[TylerR]

LOL...OK...guess I should stop printing plates then until you come up a final design. :-P

Well the original design works great, they just require supports which I taught GWS to hate, so now he is using it against me. haha

I think he just wants me to have to re-gen all the plates again :)

[bigmike111]

Is that the 6mm tube btw?

Just checked and it looks like the 6mm version has a very small area that was less then .4mm (like .3961mm), which is a big no no.
Just fixed and will add it to new release.

Yes. That was the 6mm tube.

I printed two others, a switch and light barrier style, with no issues. Still looks like my printer wasn’t extruding enough on those top layers.

[bigmike111]

My last one was 60 hours and some small change.....variable layers from .20 to .12, 4 walls, 4 solid layers on the bottom 4 on top, with 18% infill. Maybe the variable wasn't worth it. How many solid bottom and top layers do you do?

Don't know if I will ever need to print another.....except if my brother talks me into making one for him. I'm just glad I finally found the reason for the warping.....guess my basement is not cold enough to use the heat you use. It quit warping when I lowered temps back to 215/70 first layer, and 210/60 the rest of the way..........and btw I'm really glad you haven't found a good reason to add a clutch to the bases.........;)

I don’t think that variable layers are worth it for the most part.

The only thing I thought about is doing a variable layer on the base and plates for the top layers so it’s smoothed out. It would be strictly aesthetic and wouldn’t effect the operation.

[kc10kevin]

Well the original design works great, they just require supports which I taught GWS to hate, so now he is using it against me. haha

I think he just wants me to have to re-gen all the plates again :)

Definitely works great and I'm with you both....I hate supports as well. Any chance I can, I get rig of them!! Good luck.

[o416]

Well the original design works great, they just require supports which I taught GWS to hate, so now he is using it against me. haha

I think he just wants me to have to re-gen all the plates again :)

So am I putting supports or no supports in the manual? lol

[GWS]

Definitely a good idea. Here is what I did to get around the slot and grinding down the screw. Drilled out the hex adapter to lower it down some. Puts the screw below the plate. Added benefit of lowering the hex nut down now to engage the "meatier" part of the hex clutch plate.

276554
276555

I almost did that, then I decided I liked the idea of mating two together to double the hex area. Now TylerR has changed all the rules.....again, and with the clutch I guess the little single hex surface may be enough after all. I still wish somebody made a hex that was all hex and not mostly round.....but I think they were made for RC car axles or something. TylerR's right about the slot cut in one face....don't need it ....only makes the hex center easiler to waller out.


Well the original design works great, they just require supports which I taught GWS to hate, so now he is using it against me. haha

I think he just wants me to have to re-gen all the plates again :)

TylerR, you know you will like it better without stupid supports to clean up! I have to reprint all mine too, because somebody wanted a clutch.;) and yes, I admit, I like it!

[TylerR]

So am I putting supports or no supports in the manual? lol

Haha. looks like no supports. Sorry man!

[TylerR]

I almost did that, then I decided I liked the idea of mating two together to double the hex area. Now TylerR has changed all the rules.....again, and with the clutch I guess the little single hex surface may be enough after all. I still wish somebody made a hex that was all hex and not mostly round.....but I think they were made for RC car axles or something.

TylerR, you know you will like it better without stupid supports to clean up! I have to reprint all mine too, because somebody wanted a clutch.;)

You got me there my friend. :)

It's not my fault everyone keeps pointing out all the issues and I have to go back to the drawing board!!! :)

[GWS]

You got me there my friend. :)

It's not my fault everyone keeps pointing out all the issues and I have to go back to the drawing board!!! :)

Perfection takes time and patience.....we are experiencing both.

I have to order another motor for my new base....it's already printed so is has to be the big one......that means looking for a better speed control or use that giant one I got most recently. The little ones I got first have both died.....not going that route again. Cheap bites you in the butt nearly every time. o416......sorry. What you bit into wasn't a steak, it was rawhide. ;)

[o416]

Haha. looks like no supports. Sorry man!

Less work for me :) How tight should the screws/nuts on the slip clutch be?

[GWS]

Speaking of the nuts, are the recesses for the nuts hexed so they won't turn?

[TylerR]

Less work for me :) How tight should the screws/nuts on the slip clutch be?

Tight enough? I have no idea what the torque spec is :)

[o416]

Speaking of the nuts, are the recesses for the nuts hexed so they won't turn?

They don't look hexed, but that may be by design? Might be annoying trying to find nuts that fit exactly with cut out.

[TylerR]

Speaking of the nuts, are the recesses for the nuts hexed so they won't turn?

No because I didn't want to limit people to a certain nut. there is room to use a socket on them.

[GWS]

No because I didn't want to limit people to a certain nut. there is room to use a socket on them.

Makes sense.....if there's room fine. I will probably just put steel reinforced epoxy around mine....as I can't imagine them needing to tighten up that much, or they'd never slip as designed. To o416, how tight? What he said, tight enough is about right;)

[TylerR]

Makes sense.....if there's room fine. I will probably just put steel reinforced epoxy around mine....as I can't imagine them needing to tighten up that much, or they'd never slip as designed. To o416, how tight? What he said, tight enough is about right;)

Throwing the new supportless design on the printer now. Then I think its time to call it a night. I will have it all worked out sometime tomorrow.

[Anuccite]

Only 11 more hours to go ... Seems like it's been a week! Then I'll wait for the new Support-less Plate!

[stanford]

LOL...OK...guess I should stop printing plates then until you come up a final design. :-P

I feel the same way you do. I printed about 6 plates already and now I have to print them again with the new design. I will wait a while longer before even trying again.

[TylerR]

I feel the same way you do. I printed about 6 plates already and now I have to print them again with the new design. I will wait a while longer before even trying again.

Do the plates you printed work for you or no?

I have printed 50 plates easily in R&D for this project.

[stanford]

Do the plates you printed work for you or no?

I have printed 50 plates easily in R&D for this project.

I actually have not even assembled the machine yet. I like to print out everything I need then start building. Plus, I had been printing for my mpcnc also which takes a lot of time.

Even if the plates that I printed will work, I like the idea that there is some protection with the new design so I will eventually print those.

[GWS]

Even if the plates that I printed will work, I like the idea that there is some protection with the new design so I will eventually print those.

That's the spirit.....we don't want the PLA manufacturers to go out of business!;)..........Me too.

I need to print something to collate .308 165/168 grain bullets.....regular or long bullet plate is best for that TylerR?

Also need another McMaster-Carr........what speed is best? in the Manual?

[TylerR]

That's the spirit.....we don't want the PLA manufacturers to go out of business!;)..........Me too.

I need to print something to collate .308 165/168 grain bullets.....regular or long bullet plate is best for that TylerR?

Also need another McMaster-Carr........what speed is best? in the Manual?

Exactly. And let's not forget who is responsible for this last round of changes..... :)
But I can always stop making improvements if you guys want. :kidding:

I would guess the #11 plate, but can't say for sure. What are the length's of those bullets?

[GWS]

Exactly. And let's not forget who is responsible for this last round of changes..... :)
But I can always stop making improvements if you guys want. :kidding:

I would guess the #11 plate, but can't say for sure. What are the length's of those bullets?

.30 cal 28.3, 29.8, 32. mm long preferably one plate for all four. 1&3 are Hornady, 2 is Sierra, 4 is Noseler. Actually the short Hornady is 150 grains.

https://i.postimg.cc/Dzp5Wy9N/IMG-3819.jpg

[TylerR]

.30 cal 28.3, 29.8, 32. mm long preferably one plate for all four. 1&3 are Hornady, 2 is Sierra, 4 is Noseler. Actually the short Hornady is 150 grains.


Sorry man but I can't tell you for sure. The #11 plate works great on the longer ones. My testing was done with 34.5mm 300bo. Will it work on a 28.3mm bullet? I think so. I just don't know.