Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

So just because nothing is ever quite perfect, I am in the process of coding a bevel on the bottom of the collator plate holes. This is needed to avoid the issue of a slight ridge being created by the printer. This ridge tends to hang things up sometimes. Generally I just take an exacto knife and remove the ridge, but its an extra step. Once I get it coded I will re-generate all the plates and re-post. The new version will also include the added .1mm tolerance to the slide plates.

[lablover]

So just because nothing is ever quite perfect, I am in the process of coding a bevel on the bottom of the collator plate holes. This is needed to avoid the issue of a slight ridge being created by the printer. This ridge tends to hang things up sometimes. Generally I just take an exacto knife and remove the ridge, but its an extra step. Once I get it coded I will re-generate all the plates and re-post. The new version will also include the added .1mm tolerance to the slide plates.

Dude! The work you do is AWESOME...I like the idea of the bevel on the bottom. Ive noticed that at times as well. I'm gonna hold off printing any colaiter plates until youre done. Kudos Brother

Let us know when the new files are ready

[TylerR]

Dude! The work you do is AWESOME...I like the idea of the bevel on the bottom. Ive noticed that at times as well. I'm gonna hold off printing any colaiter plates until youre done. Kudos Brother


Thank you! Appreciate that. Like I said. Can't wait to see you guys get them up and running.

[lablover]

Thank you! Appreciate that. Like I said. Can't wait to see you guys get them up and running.

Parts are printing! Mcmaster motor just showed up! Electronics will be here tomorrow. I think by this weekend I should have it running.

[Fil131]

Dude! The work you do is AWESOME...I like the idea of the bevel on the bottom. Ive noticed that at times as well. I'm gonna hold off printing any colaiter plates until youre done. Kudos Brother

Let us know when the new files are ready

I agree, amazing and I'm more than grateful for all of the assistance. I'll have the McMaster motor in my hands tomorrow so as soon as I print the remaining parts I'll be ready to get it running.

[lablover]

I wonder if we could bribe Tyler for a pic inside his electronics box. Hahahahaha. Wiring ain’t my strong suit. Btw, what’s a good gauge wire for all this stuff?

[TylerR]

I wonder if we could bribe Tyler for a pic inside his electronics box. Hahahahaha. Wiring ain’t my strong suit. Btw, what’s a good gauge wire for all this stuff?

I would if I thought it would help, but it would just look like a mess of wires. lol

18-24 gauge depending on what you are doing. I used old usb wire to the drop tube sensor/led.

[lablover]

I would if I thought it would help, but it would just look like a mess of wires. lol

18-24 gauge depending on what you are doing. I used old usb wire to the drop tube sensor/led.

Thanks boss man. Just ordered some 18 ga and a bunch of connectors. Any word on the file update? I’m ready to print the updated stuff.

Btw, is there a wiring diagram on how you wired your set up? Looks super clean compared to some I’ve seen

[TylerR]

Thanks boss man. Just ordered some 18 ga and a bunch of connectors. Any word on the file update? I’m ready to print the updated stuff.

Btw, is there a wiring diagram on how you wired your set up? Looks super clean compared to some I’ve seen

Still working on it. Should have it up in an hour or so.

I just worked off the ammo mike diagram. It has the basics of what you need to do. I used some jst connectors for the usb wire to the drop tube and xt30 connectors to connect motor. My other hobby is building rc planes and stuff so I just used stuff I was familiar with. If you search back through my posts I listed out all of the parts I used.

Here it is:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=4912466&highlight=amazon#post4912466

[lablover]

Still working on it. Should have it up in an hour or so.

I just worked off the ammo mike diagram. It has the basics of what you need to do. I used some jst connectors for the usb wire to the drop tube and xt30 connectors to connect motor. My other hobby is building rc planes and stuff so I just used stuff I was familiar with. If you search back through my posts I listed out all of the parts I used.

You are the MAN! Thanks Buddy.

EDIT:
WOW, thats a serious power supply! I have been using like a 2 Amp wall wart type thing. Will 18Ga wire be enough for that size power supply you have? Just stuck it in my amazon basket

[TylerR]

Files are up. I even generated the hex plates. I have never printed a hex plate so use at your own risk. It should fit the adapters that were posted.

[lablover]

Thanks Tyler!

Crazy question for anybody. With Tylers new design, is there a way to mount it to the side of a Dillon Case feeder? I have a few Dillon presses and a bullet feeder mounted to one would be a plus. I'm also gonna browse this thread again and see if someone has an option. Might be super simple and I missed it.

Thanks Gents

[lablover]

Files are up. I even generated the hex plates. I have never printed a hex plate so use at your own risk. It should fit the adapters that were posted.

WOW, thats a micro bevel on the bottom of those plates. Thanks a million

[o416]

Files are up. I even generated the hex plates. I have never printed a hex plate so use at your own risk. It should fit the adapters that were posted.

Hi Tyler, thanks for everything you have done for us. Where exactly are the files? I know you posted a Google Drive link before but I don't remember which page it is on in this thread.

[lablover]

Files are up. I even generated the hex plates. I have never printed a hex plate so use at your own risk. It should fit the adapters that were posted.


FYI
The new sized flipper plates fit like a glove. Perfect

[lablover]

Hi Tyler, thanks for everything you have done for us. Where exactly are the files? I know you posted a Google Drive link before but I don't remember which page it is on in this thread.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler!

Crazy question for anybody. With Tylers new design, is there a way to mount it to the side of a Dillon Case feeder? I have a few Dillon presses and a bullet feeder mounted to one would be a plus. I'm also gonna browse this thread again and see if someone has an option. Might be super simple and I missed it.

Thanks Gents

The original AM files had a mount for that. I didn't recreate it because it wasn't what I needed, but I could modify my mount easily to hang off the side of the dillon feeder. Give me a day or two and I'll get something going.

[gnafin]

The original AM files had a mount for that. I didn't recreate it because it wasn't what I needed, but I could modify my mount easily to hang off the side of the dillon feeder. Give me a day or two and I'll get something going.

i will like that as well.

[TylerR]

i will like that as well.

In thinking about it the hard part is creating a mount that will allow you to hang off the side but also easily adjust the angle. I have some ideas.

[lablover]

In thinking about it the hard part is creating a mount that will allow you to hang off the side but also easily adjust the angle. I have some ideas.


Love it! The mad scientist at work! Thanks buddy

[GWS]

In thinking about it the hard part is creating a mount that will allow you to hang off the side but also easily adjust the angle. I have some ideas.

jmorris and I were talking about mounts a while back, and he wasn't real thrilled with 3D printed ones. Least not made of PLA. I even had some trouble with my down tube holding up (maybe I'm too rough with things). Anyway, that's why I mounted aluminum under my base plate. Add a 100 bullets and that's a lot of weight. I only want to set it all up once. Maybe some of the other plastics make better stronger mounts......?

[lablover]

jmorris and I were talking about mounts a while back, and he wasn't real thrilled with 3D printed ones. Least not made of PLA. I even had some trouble with my down tube holding up (maybe I'm too rough with things). Anyway, that's why I mounted aluminum under my base plate. Add a 100 bullets and that's a lot of weight. I only want to set it all up once. Maybe some of the other plastics make better stronger mounts......?


I think I may also go this route in the future. I want to give the side mount a try first.

GWS. Have you perfected that proximity sensor mount yet? I have a sensor arriving today and would love to give it a try if it’s available

[TylerR]

jmorris and I were talking about mounts a while back, and he wasn't real thrilled with 3D printed ones. Least not made of PLA. I even had some trouble with my down tube holding up (maybe I'm too rough with things). Anyway, that's why I mounted aluminum under my base plate. Add a 100 bullets and that's a lot of weight. I only want to set it all up once. Maybe some of the other plastics make better stronger mounts......?

I designed mine to be very beefy, printed it with pla+ 6 walls and 50% infill and it has held up very well. I agree though the mount is a potential week point if not done right.

[GWS]

I think I may also go this route in the future. I want to give the side mount a try first.

GWS. Have you perfected that proximity sensor mount yet? I have a sensor arriving today and would love to give it a try if it’s available

Yes....I was going to mount the feeder first, but that's going to take some time since I'm doing all metal and on a rail. Planning to get my materials today, but guess I ought to just do a quick video with a temporary so you all can see the thing working. Will do that today too.

Just one problem......I don't have a way to publish the STL files except email or thingiverse. I can email you and Tyler with them if you want them (pm me if you want that). Tyler's also welcome to add them to his stash if he thinks they are worth adding, but would have to email him too. The cad files are Autocad's .dwg file format. I doubt he can convert them be able to play with them on OpenScad. I just haven't made time to learn Openscad yet. Another option is to email them to RedlegEd.....since I have his email.....and he has Tylers' ;) I'll do that anyway...he's been following silently this latest surge of thread activity.

[TylerR]

So who wants to be the one to test this dillon mount? I have not printed or tested it.
It is designed to hang off the side of the dillon case feed and allow rotation to get the correct angle. Uses a 3/8" x 1" bolt, washer, and lock nut to connect the two parts.

269025

[Fil131]

So who wants to be the one to test this dillon mount? I have not printed or tested it.
It is designed to hang off the side of the dillon case feed and allow rotation to get the correct angle. Uses a 3/8" x 1" bolt, washer, and lock nut to connect the two parts.

269025

I wouldn't mind trying it but do not have my press yet, it'll be arriving next week or the week after hopefully. I am of course using PETG instead of PLA so may not be apples to apples with everyone else.

[TylerR]

I wouldn't mind trying it but do not have my press yet, it'll be arriving next week or the week after hopefully. I am of course using PETG instead of PLA so may not be apples to apples with everyone else.

I am going to print a small piece of the part that actually fits over the press case feeder to make sure it is close. I want it to fit but not be too loose.

[Fil131]

I am going to print a small piece of the part that actually fits over the press case feeder to make sure it is close. I want it to fit but not be too loose.

Sounds good, I don't mind printing and trying it out, just can't give it a real test until my press has arrived and I at least have my case feeder body to attach it to.

[lablover]

So who wants to be the one to test this dillon mount? I have not printed or tested it.
It is designed to hang off the side of the dillon case feed and allow rotation to get the correct angle. Uses a 3/8" x 1" bolt, washer, and lock nut to connect the two parts.

269025


I’d be happy to test it! Might be a few days before I get to it however as both printers are being used. Tell me how to get to the files. Looks awesome

[Fil131]

Just let me know where to download it from and as soon as my 6hr print is done I'll print it.

[TylerR]

I am going to run a basic fit test and then I will post files. lablover, do you have the ability to measure the wall thickness on your dillon casefeeder? And also roughly how old is it. I only ask because mine is very old, and measures in about 5.5mm. Just want to see if anything changed there with a newer feeder.

[lablover]

I am going to run a basic fit test and then I will post files. lablover, do you have the ability to measure the wall thickness on your dillon casefeeder? And also roughly how old is it. I only ask because mine is very old, and measures in about 5.5mm. Just want to see if anything changed there with a newer feeder.

I’ll go measure it now. It’s also old as dirt. Be back shortly

I’m back. 5.5mm

[TylerR]

I’ll go measure it now. It’s also old as dirt. Be back shortly

I’m back. 5.5mm

Very cool. We will assume that has not changed, and Fil131 will be able to confirm that eventually. I am going to start with 6mm width and run a test.

[Fil131]

I’ll go measure it now. It’s also old as dirt. Be back shortly

I’m back. 5.5mm

Mine would be brand new so when it arrives I'll post thickness measurement. Can't come soon enough... I'm soo damn anxious, at least I am having fun 3D printing in the meantime! Your all a bunch of damn enablers haha! I mean that as a compliment in the highest regard.

[Fil131]

Got the first collator for 9mm/380 printed overnight. Got stringing down to the finest of what I'd call peach fuzz. No issues at all and took 4hrs and 18mins or so.
269028

[lablover]

Got the first collator for 9mm/380 printed overnight. Got stringing down to the finest of what I'd call peach fuzz. No issues at all and took 4hrs and 18mins or so.
269028

I’ll be curious if the small plate will work with my tiny 32 acp stuff. I might have to use the openscad to customize to work

Also, I was about to pull the trigger on a Prusa Mk3. Wife looks at me and says...” didn’t you want to get a new AR15”. Prusa is on hold...new AR on the way instead.... wait till your Dillon shows up! Let the crazy begin. Hope you have a stock of primers. Almost impossible to get right now. I’m set for all calibers for the next several years

[TylerR]

Got the first collator for 9mm/380 printed overnight. Got stringing down to the finest of what I'd call peach fuzz. No issues at all and took 4hrs and 18mins or so.
269028

Can you confirm the hex hole fit on the adapter?

[Fil131]

I’ll be curious if the small plate will work with my tiny 32 acp stuff. I might have to use the openscad to customize to work

Also, I was about to pull the trigger on a Prusa Mk3. Wife looks at me and says...” didn’t you want to get a new AR15”. Prusa is on hold...new AR on the way instead.... wait till your Dillon shows up! Let the crazy begin. Hope you have a stock of primers. Almost impossible to get right now. I’m set for all calibers for the next several years

Lol just print the AR? Jk, well mostly kidding... This printer is awesome, of course it's my first so I don't have anything to compare it to. If the plate doesn't already work the generator will definitely be able to adjust to it.

I have 5k of each primer for now so not enough for the current shortage but good enough for a plinker like myself.

[Fil131]

Can you confirm the hex hole fit on the adapter?

Hex adapters will be here Saturday. I didn't anticipate using them until I purchased the McMaster motor. I will confirm on Saturday sir.

[lablover]

Can you confirm the hex hole fit on the adapter?

I’m printing one of your pre made plates with the hex. I will be able to confirm in about 6 ish hours. I decided to stop printing at .6 for detailed items like the hex plate. Worst case if it’s a tad too tight a file will fix that.

[Fil131]

Hex adapters will be here Saturday. I didn't anticipate using them until I purchased the McMaster motor. I will confirm on Saturday sir.

Measuring with my calipers the measurement from flat sides will fit with about +.5mm+/-. The diagonal corner to corner will fit tight on 2 of them, the 3rd is a bit too tight. Nothing wrong with the design must just be the way it printed, a bit of filling should do the trick. Maybe lablover can confirm when his is done.

[gnafin]

So who wants to be the one to test this dillon mount? I have not printed or tested it.
It is designed to hang off the side of the dillon case feed and allow rotation to get the correct angle. Uses a 3/8" x 1" bolt, washer, and lock nut to connect the two parts.

269025

i can try. i am all setup.

[Michael303]

I am interested by these. So they hold the case more firmly in place and reduce powder flinging out? Do they fit an XL650?

Yes, they're kind of spring-loaded. I haven't tested it much in production but it has pretty much eliminated the wobbling when the plate indexes. I can't tell you if they fit the 650 but I wouldn't be surprised. I'll post them to Thingiverse eventually.

[o416]

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV

Thanks!

[GWS]

GWS. Have you perfected that proximity sensor mount yet? I have a sensor arriving today and would love to give it a try if it’s available

As promised....just clamped at bench height for a quick video demo......

https://vimeo.com/466303739

Below: I just superglued the top to the middle part as they work for any bullet size.
https://i.postimg.cc/xCYxQLbV/IMG-3581.jpg
Drilled and tapped the main part for a thumb screw.....the drill went through the lower as well....then I enlarged the hole you see so the thumb screw goes in (no threads here)
https://i.postimg.cc/RhZg69RP/IMG-3582.jpg
Lower in place held in by the thumbscrew....thumbscrew doesn't intrude into the inside space.
https://i.postimg.cc/FRZPH1jd/IMG-3583.jpg

Too bad CastBoolits doesn't allow .STL attachments so I could attach direct......will have to add to Thingiverse I guess.

[lablover]

I can’t wait to try that that’s pretty slick!

[Fil131]

As promised....just clamped at bench height for a quick video demo......

https://vimeo.com/466303739

Below: I just superglued the top to the middle part as they work for any bullet size.
https://i.postimg.cc/xCYxQLbV/IMG-3581.jpg
Drilled and tapped the main part for a thumb screw.....the drill went through the lower as well....the enlarged the hole you see so the thumb screw goes in (no threads here)
https://i.postimg.cc/RhZg69RP/IMG-3582.jpg
Lower in place held in by the thumbscrew....thumbscrew doesn't intrude into the inside space.
https://i.postimg.cc/FRZPH1jd/IMG-3583.jpg

Too bad CastBoolits doesn't allow .STL attachments so I could attach direct......will have to add to Thingiverse I guess.

Will it allow in a compressed zipped folder?

[Michael303]

I am interested by these. So they hold the case more firmly in place and reduce powder flinging out? Do they fit an XL650?

I threw it up on Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4618602

Let me know if you try it and have any feedback. I'd suggest printing at least two at a time to allow the pin to cool better and turn off the elephant's foot compensation.

[lablover]

Tyler

Question. What is the difference in the spring adapter that says DT. as opposed to the ones that do not say DT. With my luck I'll print the wrong ones....HAHAHAHAHAHa

[GWS]

I can’t wait to try that that’s pretty slick!

I sent you the STL files......
One warning......the lower part works for the Chinese spring RedlegEd sold me. It doesn't screw in.....instead it "unscrews" in (which makes the spring shrink in diameter until you push it all the way in........then let go and it's tight. If you use another spring we will have to modify that lower piece file. The critical measurement so that it fits in the piece above it, is the O.D. which is 18.5mm.......I.D. at the top of the lower piece is 13.0mm, the thread design is optional.

[TylerR]

Tyler

Question. What is the difference in the spring adapter that says DT. as opposed to the ones that do not say DT. With my luck I'll print the wrong ones....HAHAHAHAHAHa

DT = drop tube. You need both.

[GWS]

TylerR: Is the one that screws to the base, the same twist screw as all the previous ones, or did you change that? Obviously, a consideration if he wants the proximity switch parts to go in....;) For my project, I used one called Chute Adapter_new_V2. Don't know if that was yours or Ammo Mikes.....hard to keep all these parts straight!

lablover: I included that "V2" part in what I sent you......so then if you use that one....it has to fit Tyler's base you printed!

[Michael303]

Do you mind posting the files for the hundo case gauge riser and flipper tray, the primer follower hanger, drop tube limiter switch, and the powder disconnect? I really like those and would like to print them myself.

I've got a few of these posted now and will try to get more up there shortly.

https://www.thingiverse.com/michael303/designs

[TylerR]

TylerR: Is the one that screws to the base, the same twist screw as all the previous ones, or did you change that? Obviously, a consideration if he wants the proximity switch parts to go in....;) For my project, I used one called Chute Adapter_new_V2. Don't know if that was yours or Ammo Mikes.....hard to keep all these parts straight!


It is the same part. I changed the number of holes to 4 instead of 5.

[o416]

Hi Tyler!

I purchased a few of the JGY motors before your awesome designs came online and I wish I had waited. Honestly, I don't think I need the larger design but was wondering if the original Ammo Mike design could be used for collating brass using your brass plates and slides.

Only problem is that all your plates and slides are oversized for your design. Is there a way to scale them down for the original design? I love your bullet/case up/down slides because they are simple and elegant unlike the originals.

Any ideas?

Thx!

[o416]

I thought about scaling your designs down but I doubt that would work as the tolerances would be affected.

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler!

I purchased a few of the JGY motors before your awesome designs came online and I wish I had waited. Honestly, I don't think I need the larger design but was wondering if the original Ammo Mike design could be used for collating brass using your brass plates and slides.

Only problem is that all your plates and slides are oversized for your design. Is there a way to scale them down for the original design? I love your bullet/case up/down slides because they are simple and elegant unlike the originals.

Any ideas?

Thx!

Yes, you can use the collator generator to make any plate you want. That's the beauty of it.

[o416]

Yes, you can use the collator generator to make any plate you want. That's the beauty of it.

Forgive me if you have answered this already, but this thread is super long now and I don't know how to work with scad files. Which software do you recommend?

Also, how can I make the bullet/case slides smaller?

[lablover]

Tyler...thank you..hex plate will be done in a few. Will update when done

GWS. I’ll keep an eye out for the files. Also, look in your private msgs. Might have some info you want. ;-)
Mike, thanks for the thingiverse uploads. Looking forward to trying them on the 650 as I’m sure as others are.

[GWS]

It is the same part. I changed the number of holes to 4 instead of 5.

Good! Then lablover should not use the part I sent.

[lablover]

Good! Then lablover should not use the part I sent.

GWS..so don’t print it?

Tyler and those asking about the hex plates. Fits perfect! But there is a catch. I printed 2 and one didn’t work. The one I printed at .6 nozzle did not work.......the one printed at .4 fit great!

I’m pretty sure the tolerance level of .6 is great for larger not dimensional accurate prints. If printing things that need to fit into each other .4 is a better bet. I even go as far as printing at a finer say 1.6 layer for better accuracy. Take this info as you see fit. Extra print time will save you with a Dremel or a file when the print is done.

Hope this info helps. Now, what am I forgetting..lol

[TylerR]

GWS..so don’t print it?

Tyler and those asking about the hex plates. Fits perfect! But there is a catch. I printed 2 and one didn’t work. The one I printed at .6 nozzle did not work.......the one printed at .4 fit great!

I’m pretty sure the tolerance level of .6 is great for larger not dimensional accurate prints. If printing things that need to fit into each other .4 is a better bet. I even go as far as printing at a finer say 1.6 layer for better accuracy. Take this info as you see fit. Extra print time will save you with a Dremel or a file when the print is done.

Hope this info helps. Now, what am I forgetting..lol

I kind of suspected as much with the .6 nozzle, so I am not surprised. Thank you for testing it out and letting everyone know the results.

[GWS]

GWS..so don’t print it?

Not the Chute Adapter_new_V2......that part has 5 holes to screw into your "Tyler" base that has 4 holes. Print Tyler's version. The other three parts should fit it.

BTW, I ordered a roll Thanks!!!! Now.....I won't steal your thunder.....tell who you want. ;)

And thanks for the heads up and about the .6 nozzle too......I see said the blind man.....

[GWS]

Will it allow in a compressed zipped folder?

I don't think so....and I don't understand TylerR's use of the sky drive.....skeered...;)

labover and others:

In my Images in the posts illustrating the proximity switch, notice the dull streak down the middle part....?
That's super glue. Word to the wise...

At first I tried that thumb screw to just tighten to the inner piece in a depression.....dumb.....what it did was split layers, when tightened, right down where the streak is.:roll: So I super glued it and drilled the inner piece on through instead of just the depression I had at first. Don't be that dumb.

[lablover]

I kind of suspected as much with the .6 nozzle, so I am not surprised. Thank you for testing it out and letting everyone know the results.

Tyler, no problem.........btw, pm me your address and your favorite place to eat! I see a gift card for dinner for you in the future for doing all this work. It would be my pleasure to treat you to a meal.

Now for a funny story. Amazon order showed up today that also had some of my wife’s stuff in it. My wife like to shoot as much as I do and never questions when I buy a firearm etc. also, I spent 10 years in the Marine Corps. Anyway, she comes up to me and says. “ Honey, what the heck are you building that you need all this electronic stuff..phot sensors and the like”. Being a smart a$$, I say one word.............claymore ...omg I never laughed so hard. I then explained what I was making. First thing out of her mouth was. Cool, you can make my bullets faster! I’m a lucky man

[lablover]

Not the Chute Adapter_new_V2......that part has 5 holes to screw into your "Tyler" base that has 4 holes. Print Tyler's version. The other three parts should fit it.

BTW, I ordered a roll Thanks!!!! Now.....I won't steal your thunder.....tell who you want. ;)

And thanks for the heads up and about the .6 nozzle too......I see said the blind man.....


You bet sir!

So, for everyone else. Amazon has that most awesome overture pla pro filament in black in stock. And it’s going fast. I have the blue that Tyler suggested and it prints incredible! I also ordered the black. Like I said it’s going fast so don’t doddle
Overture black PLA plus
Enjoy

[TylerR]

I posted the new mount. 6mm fit perfect on my dillon press, so that's what I went with. Hopefully I got everything else worked out correctly.

[TylerR]

Tyler, no problem.........btw, pm me your address and your favorite place to eat! I see a gift card for dinner for you in the future for doing all this work. It would be my pleasure to treat you to a meal.

That is very generous of you lablover, but not necessary. I just can't wait to see you guys making use of these. I do really appreciate the offer though!

Oh and she sounds like a keeper. :)

[lablover]

I posted the new mount. 6mm fit perfect on my dillon press, so that's what I went with. Hopefully I got everything else worked out correctly.

Glad I got the two rolls of filament. Hahahaha

Offer stands for dinner if you ever want it. It’s real nice in our current climate to have people like you!
And for the life of me I can’t find your open end down brass feeding video! Aghhhhhhh too much reading. Lol

That’s the next project. I swear every press I own is going to have one of these on it!

[Fil131]

I've got a few of these posted now and will try to get more up there shortly.

https://www.thingiverse.com/michael303/designs

Awesome, I’ll be putting these to use on my RL1100 when it comes in. Thank you sir.

[mynameis940]

Hey Tyler,

For your mount that you use what are the screw sizes? I'm going to mount it on a metal post to my bench I'm thinking. Thank you so much for all that you've done. I have the original one running but going to give yours a shot and probably replace the smaller one with yours.

[mynameis940]

I've got a few of these posted now and will try to get more up there shortly.

https://www.thingiverse.com/michael303/designs


Awesome thank you so much, I'm really interested in your drop tube as well. Looks beautiful compared to what I have.

Thank you.

[TylerR]

Hey Tyler,

For your mount that you use what are the screw sizes? I'm going to mount it on a metal post to my bench I'm thinking. Thank you so much for all that you've done. I have the original one running but going to give yours a shot and probably replace the smaller one with yours.

The post mount uses a 3/8" x 2" bolt with two washers and a lock nut. The new dillon one I just posted was designed for a 3/8" x 1" bolt with one washer and a lock nut.
For connecting the mount to the feeder I believe I used #6 screws.

[TylerR]

Glad I got the two rolls of filament. Hahahaha

I saw you post and went and grabbed two rolls. lol

[lablover]

I saw you post and went and grabbed two rolls. lol

Hahahahaha. I’m gonna grab another

[mynameis940]

Hey Tyler, so I tested the print with 9mm and it’s turning over all bullets. So if they’re in the correct orientation it’s turning them nose down, if they’re nose down it turns them the right way. I printed the small nose up plate. Do you push yours all the way in like in the video you posted for the 45 or do you have it part way out? For my small set up I have it pulled out part way for it to work properly.

[TylerR]

Hey Tyler, so I tested the print with 9mm and it’s turning over all bullets. So if they’re in the correct orientation it’s turning them nose down, if they’re nose down it turns them the right way. I printed the small nose up plate. Do you push yours all the way in like in the video you posted for the 45 or do you have it part way out? For my small set up I have it pulled out part way for it to work properly.

Which collator plate did you print?
Most likely you do not have the feeder at a steep enough angle. If you can post a video that would help as well.

Pulling it out slightly would compensate for too shallow an angle so that's probably what it is. also what bullets are you using?

[mynameis940]

Which collator plate did you print?
Most likely you do not have the feeder at a steep enough angle. If you can post a video that would help as well.

Pulling it out slightly would compensate for too shallow an angle so that's probably what it is. also what bullets are you using?

I'm using kimberlin creek 125 gr TC projectiles. I did a 9mm collator plate, i put the feeder on a 45 degree angle. I just tested it on like a 70 degree angle and it seems to work fine there. What angle do you have yours on?

[TylerR]

I'm using kimberlin creek 125 gr TC projectiles. I did a 9mm collator plate, i put the feeder on a 45 degree angle. I just tested it on like a 70 degree angle and it seems to work fine there. What angle do you have yours on?

70 degree angle would be extreme.
Do those have a beveled base? If so, that would contribute to the issue, and you may need to run it pulled out slightly. The plates all have a hole for a set screw just for that purpose.

[mynameis940]

70 degree angle would be extreme.
Do those have a beveled base? If so, that would contribute to the issue, and you may need to run it pulled out slightly. The plates all have a hole for a set screw just for that purpose.

Yeah they're beveled, that makes sense. Thank you. Do you think the turning plates will work with 223 projectiles at all?

[TylerR]

Yeah they're beveled, that makes sense. Thank you. Do you think the turning plates will work with 223 projectiles at all?

Everything that I have pre-packaged as far as collator plates and slides is for pistol brass and bullets. I have not worked on or tested anything else.
Even just with pistol there are so many variations that no one solution is going to work for every situation. Like beveled bases, or running semi/full wadcutters and such. That being said, I am looking at maybe moving the ridge out slightly to account for a small bevel on the base. If I go too far then semi wadcutters won't work. lol

In theory the slides will work with rifle rounds yes, but you have to use the collator generator to generate a plate that fits the caliber and then place the slide in the correct position. I am trying to take the guess work out of it by creating plates and slides that match up, but the flexibility is there to get most any combination to work if you are willing to fiddle around with it.

[TylerR]

Funny enough, I just got my new lyman #356637 9mm 147 gr flat nose bevel base mold this week. Looks like I need to do some casting and bevel base boolit testing. haha

[TylerR]

I measured the bevel on my new 9mm mold and it is measuring at 8mm. I am going to move the ridge out 1mm. I believe this will allow them to handle most bevels yet still be 100% reliable catching the nose down ones. Printing one now and then going to do some casting to test some out.

[GWS]

Beveled bases in Rifle bullets are useful for a few instances......but why the need for them in slow velocity 9mm pistol boolits? Or is it just a plot against people who want to collate and feed pistol bullets in a progressive press? ;)

[HATCH]

Beveled bases in Rifle bullets is useful for a few instances......but why the need for them in slow velocity 9mm pistol boolits? Or is it just a plot against people who want to collate pistol bullets. ;)

makes them easier to load on progressive presses with bullet feeders.
All my cast boolits have bevel bases

[TylerR]

Beveled bases in Rifle bullets are useful for a few instances......but why the need for them in slow velocity 9mm pistol boolits? Or is it just a plot against people who want to collate and feed pistol bullets in a progressive press? ;)

Haha. Well there are reasons DAA MBF says they do not support cast bullets. Beveled bases is probably one of them.

This mold is the first beveled base I will own. As Hatch said, should make loading them easier, but I just bought it because I wanted a lyman 147 gr 9mm mold and that's what they have :)

Edited: I guess I am wrong about MBF and cast bullets. I thought I had read that they didn't support them, but then looked on their website and it says they do.

https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/support-mrbulletfeeder-general

[TylerR]

makes them easier to load on progressive presses with bullet feeders.
All my cast boolits have bevel bases

Do you mind me asking, what feeder do you use and are there any adjustments you had to make for bevels, or does it just work?

[GWS]

Interesting.....guess that's superior to beveling the heck out of cases on the progressive to load boolits. Glad to see Hatch is watching over this thread again.....awesome, useful thread, that like the energizer bunny, just keeps going!:) (and giving)

It's expensive tho.....I just keep spending......

[TylerR]

Yeah they're beveled, that makes sense. Thank you. Do you think the turning plates will work with 223 projectiles at all?

How far out do you have to pull it to get it to work? I posted a new version with an additional 1mm of ridge that appear to be handling my beveled base 9mm rounds well. If you want to test it out, I posted new versions of the files. So you would need to reprint the small nose up slide.

[TylerR]

Interesting.....guess that's superior to beveling the heck out of cases on the progressive to load boolits. Glad to see Hatch is watching over this thread again.....awesome, useful thread, that like the energizer bunny, just keeps going!:) (and giving)

It's expensive tho.....I just keep spending......

No GWS, you cast and reload to save money remember....... :-D

[lablover]

No GWS, you cast and reload to save money remember....... :-D

Now that’s funny!

[o416]

Funny enough, I just got my new lyman #356637 9mm 147 gr flat nose bevel base mold this week. Looks like I need to do some casting and bevel base boolit testing. haha

Bevel base bullets worked fine for me on the original AmmoMike plate designs for 9mm. I doubt they will be a problem for yours unless they are vastly different from the originals :)

[GWS]

TylerR: Ah.....And maybe I could interest you in some beachfront property I own in Arizona.......for cheap....

[TylerR]

Bevel base bullets worked fine for me on the original AmmoMike plate designs for 9mm. I doubt they will be a problem for yours unless they are vastly different from the originals :)

The design of my slide plates are slightly different, same principle though. It really comes down to the amount of ridge that is exposed in relation to the collator plate. I am trying to get a "default" distance that will work in most situations, without having to pull the slide out to adjust. But that of course is always an option.

[TylerR]

TylerR: Ah.....And maybe I could interest you in some beachfront property I own in Arizona.......for cheap....

Sounds like a sweet deal. Tell me more......

[o416]

Tyler, is there any way to use your bullet nose down slides with the original AmmoMike design? Yours is much larger since the entire feeder system is scaled up. I love how simple your design is.

[mynameis940]

How far out do you have to pull it to get it to work? I posted a new version with an additional 1mm of ridge that appear to be handling my beveled base 9mm rounds well. If you want to test it out, I posted new versions of the files. So you would need to reprint the small nose up slide.

Im going to get it mounted up tomorrow so I’ll print your new nose up plate and see how it works with my bullets. Going to get a 1” post and mount for my bench and do it that way I think

[TylerR]

Tyler, is there any way to use your bullet nose down slides with the original AmmoMike design? Yours is much larger since the entire feeder system is scaled up. I love how simple your design is.

The only way to do that would be to design your own slides. I bumped the size up on the plates to allow more customization and hopefully reliability.

I am hoping to get feedback from everyone and make this feeder simple and super reliable.

[mynameis940]

The only way to do that would be to design your own slides. I bumped the size up on the plates to allow more customization and hopefully reliability.

I am hoping to get feedback from everyone and make this feeder simple and super reliable.

Hey Tyler, I got a big favor to ask. Do you mind making the big switch down tubes with your disconnect? I really prefer the switch system over the photosensor one and would love to be able to use your quick detatch system as it’s awesome and I prefer it over the original design. Specifically for 9mm projectiles as that’s all I really shoot. I have everything ready to go now just going to head to Home Depot in the morning for the post and get it set up properly.

[lablover]

Tyler R I need your help.

I cant seem to find the files for the Brass nose down in your recent .zip file. I'm pretty sure I went thru them all? Being able to Bulge Bust is a big bonus of this project. I could of swore I saw it before in your older .zip files. Aghhhhhh Getting old sucks

Also, if you can please. I'd love to see how you have the spring attached to the Lee APP from the bullet feeder or case feeder. Lee provides those cheap clear plastic tubes. Hope to get mine finalized today as the rest of my electronics should show up today in the mail.
Thanks a Million buddy
Joe

[GWS]

No rest for Tyler today....;) but I'll offer what I did, fwiw....

Since I didn't use the "large_spring_adapter_V3" for coming out of the base piece, I used it at the bottom, between the spring and Lee's "cheap clear plastic tubes" (which I love because I like to be able to see where the top of the stack is).

269116

The fact that the clear tubing is a bit loose going into the APP, was annoying, but easily fixed by wrapping electrical tape around the end until it wasn't loose.

It's all Lees fault! If they hadn't introduced the APP, I would never have gotten into 3D printing......ok, RedlegED, Jmorris, and AR-Bossman also had something to do with it.....and from there Mike and TylerR finished me off. Retirement was supposed to be restful.

[lablover]

No rest for Tyler today....;) but I'll offer what I did, fwiw....

Since I didn't use the "large_spring_adapter_V3" for coming out of the base piece, I used it at the bottom, between the spring and Lee's "cheap clear plastic tubes" (which I love because I like to be able to see where the top of the stack is.

269116

The fact that the clear tubing is a bit loose going into the APP, was annoying, but easily fixed by wrapping electrical tape around the end until it wasn't loose.

Is that one of Tylers Designs? Perfect, I'll give it a go. Hope to have the day to wire all this together......Poof!

[HATCH]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/b957b062223bf73c52136f01cd85c976.jpg


Starting. 4 days 21 hrs
30% infill
Everything else standard


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mynameis940]

so I bought a 3/4" pipe with a floor flange to mount your print Tyler, gotta reprint the nose up, it's just started. The print failed last night for some reason while I was sleeping. So I got that running, I'll give an update once it's done. Thanks so much Tyler I'm really liking this ones size compared to the original and the mount works perfect as that's where all my projectiles are.

Okay, so tested it out about 90% make it with baseside down but 1/10 are flipping to nose down

269126

[Fil131]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/b957b062223bf73c52136f01cd85c976.jpg


Starting. 4 days 21 hrs
30% infill
Everything else standard


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4 days 21hrs? Mine took 12hrs and under 45mins. It came out perfect and that was my first big print ever. What settings are you using?

[Fil131]

@TylerR two things.

I just got my hex couplers and the design is perfect! They fit with almost no convincing and they aren’t loose at all. Awesome job and that’s with my printing the collator with a 0.6 nozzle printing pretty fast.
269131

Second the Spring _Adapter_DT_Large does not print properly on my printer. I swapped from the 0.6 nozzle back to the 0.4 and it will work but has areas where I can see light through the print. May be my print settings but here are some pictures. The horrible one was the 0.6 nozzle, the other is the 0.4
269130

[TylerR]

Tyler R I need your help.

I cant seem to find the files for the Brass nose down in your recent .zip file. I'm pretty sure I went thru them all? Being able to Bulge Bust is a big bonus of this project. I could of swore I saw it before in your older .zip files. Aghhhhhh Getting old sucks

Also, if you can please. I'd love to see how you have the spring attached to the Lee APP from the bullet feeder or case feeder. Lee provides those cheap clear plastic tubes. Hope to get mine finalized today as the rest of my electronics should show up today in the mail.
Thanks a Million buddy
Joe

I pulled the base down files because there were issues with it feeding 100% reliably. Been working on them for the last week and still not completely satisfied. What calibers are you wanting to BB?

[TylerR]

Tyler R I need your help.

I cant seem to find the files for the Brass nose down in your recent .zip file. I'm pretty sure I went thru them all? Being able to Bulge Bust is a big bonus of this project. I could of swore I saw it before in your older .zip files. Aghhhhhh Getting old sucks

Also, if you can please. I'd love to see how you have the spring attached to the Lee APP from the bullet feeder or case feeder. Lee provides those cheap clear plastic tubes. Hope to get mine finalized today as the rest of my electronics should show up today in the mail.
Thanks a Million buddy
Joe


I created an adapter from the spring to their clear tubes. I will look in to adding that to the files.

Feeling a bit under the weather today, so no getting a lot done at the moment.

[TylerR]

@TylerR two things.

I just got my hex couplers and the design is perfect! They fit with almost no convincing and they aren’t loose at all. Awesome job and that’s with my printing the collator with a 0.6 nozzle printing pretty fast.
269131

Second the Spring _Adapter_DT_Large does not print properly on my printer. I swapped from the 0.6 nozzle back to the 0.4 and it will work but has areas where I can see light through the print. May be my print settings but here are some pictures. The horrible one was the 0.6 nozzle, the other is the 0.4
269130

Something definitely going on with your print settings. Those are solid pieces so not sure why the walls are either missing or super thin.

[TylerR]

so I bought a 3/4" pipe with a floor flange to mount your print Tyler, gotta reprint the nose up, it's just started. The print failed last night for some reason while I was sleeping. So I got that running, I'll give an update once it's done. Thanks so much Tyler I'm really liking this ones size compared to the original and the mount works perfect as that's where all my projectiles are.

Okay, so tested it out about 90% make it with baseside down but 1/10 are flipping to nose down

269126

So it's better, but still failing every 10th one? And this is at 45 degree angle?

[mynameis940]

So it's better, but still failing every 10th one? And this is at 45 degree angle?

Yup, i'm going to mess with it some more and see where it works best but it'll be tomorrow. I don't like this hex shaft so I drilled a hole in the motor and ordered a rollpin. It'll be here tomorrow so I'll be messing around with it tomorrow morning

[GWS]

Second the Spring _Adapter_DT_Large does not print properly on my printer. I swapped from the 0.6 nozzle back to the 0.4 and it will work but has areas where I can see light through the print. May be my print settings but here are some pictures. The horrible one was the 0.6 nozzle, the other is the 0.4
269130

I printed my adapters with four walls and 100% fill. They printed great. I was worried about less than that. .4 nozzle of course.....since that's all I have!

[lablover]

45 acp. You mean base up right?

[lablover]

I got it working. I had to wire it like this. Don't ask me why this works but it does. Now I just have to figure out how to make collator plates for the hex.
268088

Been trying for several hours to get this wired to work and zero luck. Ive tried everything. Only way to get it to work is not use the photo relay at all then I get power. Just disconected everything and will try again. I think its that jumper thats screwing me. So so many wires...Elec is not my strong suit

[o416]

Been trying for several hours to get this wired to work and zero luck. Ive tried everything. Only way to get it to work is not use the photo relay at all then I get power. Just disconected everything and will try again. I think its that jumper thats screwing me. So so many wires...Elec is not my strong suit

lablover, try this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS00VdU-N3Y&ab_channel=hillsgun

Should help :)

[TylerR]

45 acp. You mean base up right?

Yes, my bad, base up.

[HATCH]

4 days 21hrs? Mine took 12hrs and under 45mins. It came out perfect and that was my first big print ever. What settings are you using?

Print speed is 50 mm/s

With the exception of turning the brim off, the rest is the standard defaults
8 layers top
8 layers bottom
2 line wall count
Extra fine .06 layer height

I guess you can change the settings to .3mm layer height and that knocks it down to a little over a day.

You could also increase your print speed as well and that will decrease your print time.

I originally worked with Mike directly on the original design as far as how to print it.

Wall count was a big issue and infill.

Wall count is how many solid layers you have before you get to infill.
He initially said 5.
Keep in mind that infill is a bunch of empty space. So anything you screw in is only held by the walls.

I am 7 hrs into my print and my z axis is only on .6
This is because the entire footprint of the base has been printed 10 times already.
I have ten solid layers. No infill yet.


In the beginning I paid a guy to print me one.
It looked great but wasn’t.
The walls separated. Had to heat them up to repair them.
Just wasn’t good quality.
Then I purchased a printer. Not a high end. Just a cheap $150.
This is the fourth one I have printed (the first larger one) and i am willing to wait the five days because I am printing it to last.

I would print this at 100% infill if I could get a big enough spoil of pla and wanted to wait a month for the print to be done. (Guessing a month)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Okay, so tested it out about 90% make it with baseside down but 1/10 are flipping to nose down


Just posted a new version. Ridges on all slide plates have been moved out another .5mm. Also slight change to the small pistol collator plate.

[TylerR]

45 acp. You mean base up right?

I will try to get them posted later this week. I can tell you that base up case feeding is a very tricky animal. The bottom line is the case does not like to be base up. Combine that with the sharp edges of the case mouth wanting to catch on any little thing, things want to jam up. I have the case flipping down to a science, and they go thru the drop hole reliably. The big issue now is getting them to not flip around in the funnel and get stuck. 45 ACP is the one I have done the most testing with, and working the most reliably.

[mynameis940]

Just posted a new version. Ridges on all slide plates have been moved out another .5mm. Also slight change to the small pistol collator plate.

should i use that collator plate too or just the new slide plate? I used the generator for 9mm to create the plate I'm printing now.

[TylerR]

should i use that collator plate too or just the new slide plate? I used the generator for 9mm to create the plate I'm printing now.

Somehow my small pistol plate ended up with 11mm height instead of 13. I regenerated it to be 13mm.

[lablover]

lablover, try this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS00VdU-N3Y&ab_channel=hillsgun

Should help :)

Think I have a bum photo sensor controller. I’m whipped, will try again tomorrow

[lablover]

I will try to get them posted later this week. I can tell you that base up case feeding is a very tricky animal. The bottom line is the case does not like to be base up. Combine that with the sharp edges of the case mouth wanting to catch on any little thing, things want to jam up. I have the case flipping down to a science, and they go thru the drop hole reliably. The big issue now is getting them to not flip around in the funnel and get stuck. 45 ACP is the one I have done the most testing with, and working the most reliably.


No worries, I figured it was a rare beast! I’ve got enough to keep me busy for a few days for sure.

[GWS]

I will try to get them posted later this week. I can tell you that base up case feeding is a very tricky animal. The bottom line is the case does not like to be base up. Combine that with the sharp edges of the case mouth wanting to catch on any little thing, things want to jam up. I have the case flipping down to a science, and they go thru the drop hole reliably. The big issue now is getting them to not flip around in the funnel and get stuck. 45 ACP is the one I have done the most testing with, and working the most reliably.

I think the biggest problem with reliability is the rough PLA surface. You have problems with case edges....I can imagine. I even have problems with nose down bullets.....they don't want to slide on that rough PLA surface, so when they drop part way early like I did successfully on my Hornady conversion....to keep them from hanging at high speed, the PLA grabs and wants to flip the bullets. I'm coating that surface with something hard and slick tomorrow, and I'll bet that will help. Might be of help to your cases too.

My rampless bullet point down is working 95%. Getting close.

[GWS]

I would print this at 100% infill if I could get a big enough spoil of pla and wanted to wait a month for the print to be done. (Guessing a month)

Hatch: My first print worked really well, and it seems to be plenty tough. After I thought about it awhile, I decided to try 4 walls and only 2 solid layers before starting the 18% Gyroid infill. Top finish was another 2 layers solid. I was impressed with that. Pretty darn strong. The print (small base) took 16 hours. I thought it important to have the 4 walls because that means all the motor mount bolt holes have 4 walls around each hole....and the sides of the base have four walls inside and outside both.

Mine's the small base......the next project will be the larger base. Will I change anything for that one? I think I'll try for a smoother base bottom top horizontal surface by using a 4 layer top surface after the gyroid fill. The gyroid was twice as fast as any of my software's fill choices. I'm using IdeaMaker.....way happy with it. Lots easier for me to understand than Cura was, and it's every bit as powerful.

Below is a picture of the IdeaMaker gyroid fill at 18% on my first plate. an experimental bullet nose down plate for .45 boolits, it took 6 hours to print that......nothing is delaminating and is being used a lot as I attempt to develop a rampless feeder design.

https://i.postimg.cc/prJ6yxzz/IMG-3525.jpg

[lablover]

I think the biggest problem with reliability is the rough PLA surface. You have problems with case edges....I can imagine. I even have problems with nose down bullets.....they don't want to slide on that rough PLA surface, so when they drop part way early like I did successfully on my Hornady conversion....to keep them from hanging at high speed, the PLA grabs and wants to flip the bullets. I'm coating that surface with something hard and slick tomorrow, and I'll bet that will help. Might be of help to your cases too.

My rampless bullet point down is working 95%. Getting close.

Check a printer setting called ironing. It will make the final top layer extra smooth

[gnafin]

Sweet, how long is yours estimating?

at this point it was 15 hr.

[gnafin]

I’ll be curious if the small plate will work with my tiny 32 acp stuff. I might have to use the openscad to customize to work

Also, I was about to pull the trigger on a Prusa Mk3. Wife looks at me and says...” didn’t you want to get a new AR15”. Prusa is on hold...new AR on the way instead.... wait till your Dillon shows up! Let the crazy begin. Hope you have a stock of primers. Almost impossible to get right now. I’m set for all calibers for the next several years

that's a good wife...and i just have 1 box of 1000 primers left!!!

[lablover]

that's a good wife...and i just have 1 box of 1000 primers left!!!

I’d be in a panic for sure! Hopefully it comes around soon.

[JSATX]

Howdy all, I've got the printer running away trying to knock this sucker out. I see the JGY370 is no longer recommended, this one looks like it has the same housing and a bigger motor. Has anyone tried it?

Apologies if it has been asked already. I'm on page 54 of the thread haha, only 15 more pages to go but I had to jump ahead and ask.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FC8ZH74/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A15GNHST7KG47K&psc=1

[GWS]

Check a printer setting called ironing. It will make the final top layer extra smooth

Yeah, that setting was an option, but I hadn't heard of anyone trying it. For sure it will add to the time. Has anyone tried it who can report?
ABS is a lot slicker plastic, but I'm not ready to try that quite yet.

I've been playing with the bullet drop and melted some green PLA onto the drop area.....then I did "iron" it with a soldering iron to melt it again, then a steel drill bit shaft pressed into it quickly. Seemed to work. Bullets slid and dropped better......so maybe the ironing feature could work....have to try it on something.


Howdy all, I've got the printer running away trying to knock this sucker out. I see the JGY370 is no longer recommended, this one looks like it has the same housing and a bigger motor. Has anyone tried it?

Apologies if it has been asked already. I'm on page 54 of the thread haha, only 15 more pages to go but I had to jump ahead and ask.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FC8ZH74/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A15GNHST7KG47K&psc=1

Had to go check my JGY370 motor......sure enough, it's bigger. My motor is 24.4x30.93 mm compared to 31x57 mm. The next question is obviously, does the bigger size mean more power?

To compare, my Dayton 2L2009 with the big square gearbox (I haven't used yet) is 27.7 mm x 37 mm. So this one you found is even bigger than that! Might just work! Thanks for the head's up!

Maybe the JGY370 sized base shouldn't be tossed out afterall!

[mynameis940]

Howdy all, I've got the printer running away trying to knock this sucker out. I see the JGY370 is no longer recommended, this one looks like it has the same housing and a bigger motor. Has anyone tried it?

Apologies if it has been asked already. I'm on page 54 of the thread haha, only 15 more pages to go but I had to jump ahead and ask.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FC8ZH74/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A15GNHST7KG47K&psc=1

Just looking at it, looks like the shaft is really short so you may have problems even reaching the collator. Sure there's things you can do to solve this issue but I'd just go with the mcmaster motor, it's a little expensive but it runs really nicely.

[lablover]

Yeah, that setting was an option, but I hadn't heard of anyone trying it. For sure it will add to the time. Has anyone tried it who can report?
ABS is a lot slicker plastic, but I'm not ready to try that quite yet.

I've been playing with the bullet drop and melted some green PLA onto the drop area.....then I did "iron" it with a soldering iron to melt it again, then a steel drill bit shaft pressed into it quickly. Seemed to work. Bullets slid and dropped better......so maybe the ironing feature could work....have to try it on something.



Had to go check my JGY370 motor......sure enough, it's bigger. My motor is 24.4x30.93 mm compared to 31x57 mm. The next question is obviously, does the bigger size mean more power?

To compare, my Dayton 2L2009 with the big square gearbox (I haven't used yet) is 27.7 mm x 37 mm. So this one you found is even bigger than that! Might just work! Thanks for the head's up!

Maybe the JGY370 sized base shouldn't be tossed out afterall!

GWS
The ironing does work pretty good but does add a little bit of time. I’ve used it and like it. Also, wiring your proximity sensor...any advice? Diagram? I’m sure I missed it.

[GWS]

GWS
........wiring your proximity sensor...any advice? Diagram? I’m sure I missed it.

You're as forgetful as I am.....;) I think I PM'd you, but maybe others can use it, since I posted it way back in page 50 or some such.

Picture and description below:

https://i.postimg.cc/zBXn2pDg/IMG-3539.jpg
The speed control IC board terminals from the left:
1. -Motor: connect the blue proximity sensor lead to that;
2. +Motor: connect the positive brown proximity sensor lead and positive lead from your motor to that (white cable with red and black wire is to my motor);
3. Black leads from the proximity senor and the negative lead from your motor wire nutted or soldered together & insulated.
4. The last two terminals on the speed control are for your 12V power supply....obviously positive wire to positive terminal, negative to negative, colors depend on your wire. Even a white double wire cable has some indication which is positive.....if not a color, a mark or texture change denotes positive.

If you can swing it, it's always best in the long run to use couplers of some sort so you can take things apart.

I used these after cutting off the white LED connectors first:
https://www.ledsupply.com/accessories/2.1mm-led-strip-plug

Or if you have a wall wart power supply with a barrel connector already, you could mount one of these to you electrical box:
https://www.ledsupply.com/accessories/barrel-plug-power-connector-center-positive

When you get things all connected, any lead or copper within 8mm (a quarter inch) of the sensor is detected and turns the motor off.

[lablover]

You're as forgetful as I am.....;) I think I PM'd you, but maybe others can use it, since I posted it way back in page 50 or some such.

Picture and description below:

https://i.postimg.cc/zBXn2pDg/IMG-3539.jpg
The speed control IC board terminals from the left:
1. -Motor: connect the blue proximity sensor lead to that;
2. +Motor: connect the positive brown proximity sensor lead and positive lead from your motor to that (white cable with red and black wire is to my motor);
3. Black leads from the proximity senor and the negative lead from your motor wire nutted or soldered together & insulated.
4. The last two terminals on the speed control are for your 12V power supply....obviously positive wire to positive terminal, negative to negative, colors depend on your wire. Even a white double wire cable has some indication which is positive.....if not a color, a mark or texture change denotes positive.

If you can swing it, it's always best in the long run to use couplers of some sort so you can take things apart.

I used these after cutting off the white LED connectors first:
https://www.ledsupply.com/accessories/2.1mm-led-strip-plug

Or if you have a wall wart power supply with a barrel connector already, you could mount one of these to you electrical box:
https://www.ledsupply.com/accessories/barrel-plug-power-connector-center-positive

When you get things all connected, any lead or copper within 8mm (a quarter inch) of the sensor is detected and turns the motor off.


Yup, you are right! Sorry about that. Getting old sucks

Thank you very much

[GWS]

yes it does suck.....now you have to go back and read my post again, because I added something to the bottom you might like......
I can't post it all in one whack.......too old too slow.

[lablover]

Man, I have to remember to unload my filament! After a few days on the printer it starts printing like crap.....moisture! Time to dry it out with a food dehydrator

[GWS]

Just looking at it, looks like the shaft is really short so you may have problems even reaching the collator. Sure there's things you can do to solve this issue but I'd just go with the mcmaster motor, it's a little expensive but it runs really nicely.

That's what the hex couplers are good for. I prefer them anyway.

[TylerR]

Maybe the JGY370 sized base shouldn't be tossed out afterall!

Aww hell, I will just add it back to the download. I don't want to hear any complaining if it don't work though. haha :mrgreen:

[TylerR]

Okay, so tested it out about 90% make it with baseside down but 1/10 are flipping to nose down


Let me know when you get a chance to test the latest version. It has been bumped 1.5mm at this point, so with a decent angle it should work on just about any bevel base.

[TylerR]

Howdy all, I've got the printer running away trying to knock this sucker out. I see the JGY370 is no longer recommended, this one looks like it has the same housing and a bigger motor. Has anyone tried it?

Apologies if it has been asked already. I'm on page 54 of the thread haha, only 15 more pages to go but I had to jump ahead and ask.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FC8ZH74/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A15GNHST7KG47K&psc=1

I commend you for reading the entire thread! It really is worth it to understand how things got to where they are now, and all the options.

[TylerR]

lablover, try this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS00VdU-N3Y&ab_channel=hillsgun

Should help :)

Nice find on the video. That should help folks for sure.

[TylerR]

That's what the hex couplers are good for. I prefer them anyway.

I actually purchased some just to play around. If and when I build a third feeder I might just go hex for the heck of it. Drilling the hole in the hardened steel shaft was no walk in the part.

[GWS]

Aww hell, I will just add it back to the download. I don't want to hear any complaining if it don't work though. haha :mrgreen:

You have a lot more patience than I do.......good thing the 3dprint lovers aren't depending on me.....the options are just staggering. Ammo Mike even got burned out......and I don't blame him...........maybe we could pass a collection plate!;) Thanks for all you've done.....and do.

I remember when you were doing your first print.....wasn't that long ago. I was just a lurker then, trying to decide whether to jump in buy a printer and try one. Ended up with a CR-10 v2. Really glad I did....... gives me something to thing about besides a stupid virus.

[lablover]

Nice find on the video. That should help folks for sure.

Helped me! Btw, I think you will like the coupler.

[lablover]

You have a lot more patience than I do.......good thing the 3dprint lovers aren't depending on me.....the options are just staggering. Ammo Mike even got burned out......and I don't blame him...........maybe we could pass a collection plate!;) Thanks for all you've done.....and do.

I agree!

[HATCH]

Ammomike didn’t get burned out.
MBF got to him.
For him this was fun. He still does upgrades. They aren’t public.

But without him we wouldn’t be where we are now.
I do like the hex coupler idea.

I have to move my printer out of my home office to either the attached garage or my shop.
My son complained about the sound being like his phone on vibrate and it is waking him up but it’s on a 5 day print and it’s just past day 1 so he will have to get over it for now


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[HATCH]

Who is selling the bullet collator on eBay? It’s a different design


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[TylerR]

Who is selling the bullet collator on eBay? It’s a different design

Do you have a link?

[j_dude77]

TylerR,

I decided to give your design a try. I printed the drop hole adapter and drop spring adapter. Weird thing is, the prints are coming out with lines printed inside the holes. Just seeing if anyone else has had this problem.

[HATCH]

Do you have a link?

323983453561

That is the item number


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mynameis940]

Let me know when you get a chance to test the latest version. It has been bumped 1.5mm at this point, so with a decent angle it should work on just about any bevel base.

Works flawlessly, I had one nose down out of the 1000 I loaded this evening. I got to say thank you so much Tyler, I got this thing set up so perfectly for how I want it now. Put it to the right of the case feeder where I have all my projectiles in akromils bins so it’s easy to throw the projectiles in. Also it holds and functions with so many more projectiles than the small one. Thank you so much.


I actually purchased some just to play around. If and when I build a third feeder I might just go hex for the heck of it. Drilling the hole in the hardened steel shaft was no walk in the part.

I didn’t seem to have a problem with drilling it at all, took me about 1 minute and it didn’t get hot or anything. It could be because I went 1/8th like you suggested so it wasn’t too big of a hole.

[Tazza]

323983453561

That is the item number

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I tried looking it up, but being from the backwards land of .au, it won't show me....

I know some of AmmoMike's collators appeared on Facebook marketplace for a few hundred bucks a piece.........

[lablover]

TylerR,

I decided to give your design a try. I printed the drop hole adapter and drop spring adapter. Weird thing is, the prints are coming out with lines printed inside the holes. Just seeing if anyone else has had this problem.

I printed the same items today. Also had a lot of stringing on the inside of the holes. Gonna give it another try tomorrow with some different settings. I may wait for the new overture pro to show up as well. Filament left out for a few days can give you issues real quick

[TylerR]

I printed the same items today. Also had a lot of stringing on the inside of the holes. Gonna give it another try tomorrow with some different settings. I may wait for the new overture pro to show up as well. Filament left out for a few days can give you issues real quick

I get a few stray strings inside where the threads are. A brief pass with an xacto knife and they are taken care of. If you are getting a lot of stringing then something else is up.

[TylerR]

Works flawlessly, I had one nose down out of the 1000 I loaded this evening. I got to say thank you so much Tyler, I got this thing set up so perfectly for how I want it now. Put it to the right of the case feeder where I have all my projectiles in akromils bins so it’s easy to throw the projectiles in. Also it holds and functions with so many more projectiles than the small one. Thank you so much.



I didn’t seem to have a problem with drilling it at all, took me about 1 minute and it didn’t get hot or anything. It could be because I went 1/8th like you suggested so it wasn’t too big of a hole.

I am very glad to hear it is working well now!

[GWS]

Ammomike didn’t get burned out.
MBF got to him.
For him this was fun. He still does upgrades. They aren’t public.

But without him we wouldn’t be where we are now.
I do like the hex coupler idea.

I have to move my printer out of my home office to either the attached garage or my shop.
My son complained about the sound being like his phone on vibrate and it is waking him up but it’s on a 5 day print and it’s just past day 1 so he will have to get over it for now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know his fans didn't burn Mike out....MBF did. The threats were designed to intimidate and would intimidate anybody.

Sorry to hear about your son's stress over the 5 day print. My late entrance into the hobby had one big plus. My new Creality CR-10v2 with the "silent motherboard" is......... except for some fan noise, and it isn't bad. My Master bedroom is above my printer and we don't hear a thing. The bigger 300x300X400mm bed is nice too. The cost.......wasn't so nice.....but I got over it.

[TylerR]

323983453561

That is the item number

Definitely a different design. There is a reason I haven't posted anything on thingiverse (well several really)

[Michael303]

Print speed is 50 mm/s

With the exception of turning the brim off, the rest is the standard defaults
8 layers top
8 layers bottom
2 line wall count
Extra fine .06 layer height

I guess you can change the settings to .3mm layer height and that knocks it down to a little over a day.


In my experience, a .06 layer height won't provide any advantages for printing something like the bullet feeder considering the time it takes. If I need to print something with fine detail, like some M10 threads I just did, I print at 0.15mm layer height. All the BF parts I've made were at 0.3mm height with 2-3 walls, 3 layers top and bottom, and 0.5 extrusion width. The strength comes from the exterior shell and this ends up being thicker than eight layers at 0.06. Infill doesn't contribute a lot to the strength until it gets over 50% so I usually only print at 10-15%, primarily just to hold up the top layers. It's been a while since I printed the original AM design but it was done in under 12 hrs and came out great. Depending on what slicer is being used there are probably a few other settings that can be tweaked to speed things up like combining infill layers in PrusaSlicer. Without knowing what printer you're using I'd say you could probably print a little faster than 50 mm/s. I've printed a lot of stuff at 80 mm/s with great results but a lot of the stuff I print now is only at 60. 4 days is a lot of time for something to go wrong like a power flicker or something else.

[HATCH]

The original AM took 18 hrs.
I totally understand about layer height and time.
I just prefer to have a better looking unit and one that will last longer
I am finished with the bottom part of the base and it is starting on the walls now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[j_dude77]

I get a few stray strings inside where the threads are. A brief pass with an xacto knife and they are taken care of. If you are getting a lot of stringing then something else is up.

I guess I should have been more specific. It is not really stringing, but like it is trying to bridge between the threads in a corner. It prints straight lines. Someone I spoke with said that happens when you try to do large threads. Said it happens to him all the time. I will just clean it up. As long as they thread onto the spring I am good. Was just wondering if anyone else ran into that problem. Oh are all of you printing these with .6 nozzles?

[TylerR]

I guess I should have been more specific. It is not really stringing, but like it is trying to bridge between the threads in a corner. It prints straight lines. Someone I spoke with said that happens when you try to do large threads. Said it happens to him all the time. I will just clean it up. As long as they thread onto the spring I am good. Was just wondering if anyone else ran into that problem. Oh are all of you printing these with .6 nozzles?

Everything I have printed and tested is with a .4 nozzle.

[lablover]

Everything I have printed and tested is with a .4 nozzle.

Same here. I did print some more of the DT spring adapters but used a 1.2 as opposed to 2.0 layer height. World of difference.

Now, does anyone have a substitute for the lee APP clear tubes? I know a little off topic but... Oh, Base down brass feeding is up and running like a champ! Wooooohoooooo!!!

[TylerR]

Same here. I did print some more of the DT spring adapters but used a 1.2 as opposed to 2.0 layer height. World of difference.

Now, does anyone have a substitute for the lee APP clear tubes? I know a little off topic but... Oh, Base down brass feeding is up and running like a champ! Wooooohoooooo!!!

That is great news! I have been doing some more tweaking and testing of base up brass last two days. I am going to post something probably today. I will also include some of the adapters I created to adapt the drop tube to the APP clear tubing. I actually ordered some extra clear tubes direct from Lee and they were free of charge for some reason.

[lablover]

That is great news! I have been doing some more tweaking and testing of base up brass last two days. I am going to post something probably today. I will also include some of the adapters I created to adapt the drop tube to the APP clear tubing. I actually ordered some extra clear tubes direct from Lee and they were free of charge for some reason.

That is great news...Off to lee to order some tubes. Look forward to your design changes for base up feeding of 45 acp brass!

[lablover]

Tyler

Im embarrassed to ask but its making me crazy. I ordered the on off switches you did with the little blue light. For the life of me I cant get the little blue light to come on! The bullet feeder works on and off but thats it. The switch has 3 prongs on the back and I'm pretty sure Ive wired something wrong. Any way to can hand draw where each switch terminal goes? I know one of the tabs on the back of the switch is a little off color. I swallowed my pride. Like I said wiring is not my strong suit....LOL

[TylerR]

Tyler

Im embarrassed to ask but its making me crazy. I ordered the on off switches you did with the little blue light. For the life of me I cant get the little blue light to come on! The bullet feeder works on and off but thats it. The switch has 3 prongs on the back and I'm pretty sure Ive wired something wrong. Any way to can hand draw where each switch terminal goes? I know one of the tabs on the back of the switch is a little off color. I swallowed my pride. Like I said wiring is not my strong suit....LOL

This video explains it well. Negative from power supply goes to the copper colored terminal. if you switch the two positive leads the led will either be on all the time or only when the switch is on.


https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1RLNS_enUS793US793&sxsrf=ALeKk02ZnRT743NefVS_ueXWr2YFDgRodQ%3A1602522 765250&ei=jY6EX9vsDtaFytMPw-OeiAg&q=how+to+wire+12v+3+pin+led+switch&oq=how+to+wire+12v+3+pin+led+switch&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzIFCAAQzQIyBQgAEM0CMgUIABDNAjI FCAAQzQI6BAgAEEc6BwgjELACECc6CAgAEAgQDRAeOgQIIxAnO gYIABAIEB46BAghEApQ30BY5Exgr05oAHACeACAAV6IAeAEkgE BOJgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXrIAQjAAQE&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwib56rBxq_sAhXWgnIEHcOxB4EQ4dUDCA0&uact=5#kpvalbx=_vo6EX9aHBqKIytMP7f-6aA17

[lablover]

This video explains it well. Negative from power supply goes to the copper colored terminal. if you switch the two positive leads the led will either be on all the time or only when the switch is on.


https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1RLNS_enUS793US793&sxsrf=ALeKk02ZnRT743NefVS_ueXWr2YFDgRodQ%3A1602522 765250&ei=jY6EX9vsDtaFytMPw-OeiAg&q=how+to+wire+12v+3+pin+led+switch&oq=how+to+wire+12v+3+pin+led+switch&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzIFCAAQzQIyBQgAEM0CMgUIABDNAjI FCAAQzQI6BAgAEEc6BwgjELACECc6CAgAEAgQDRAeOgQIIxAnO gYIABAIEB46BAghEApQ30BY5Exgr05oAHACeACAAV6IAeAEkgE BOJgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXrIAQjAAQE&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwib56rBxq_sAhXWgnIEHcOxB4EQ4dUDCA0&uact=5#kpvalbx=_vo6EX9aHBqKIytMP7f-6aA17

Jackpot..Thanks bunch

[TylerR]

Jackpot..Thanks bunch

At some point you need to get us some video of the brass base down feeding.

[lablover]

At some point you need to get us some video of the brass base down feeding.

Will Do.

Hope this works


https://youtu.be/6x_5MMGSdU4

[TylerR]

Looks good. I would increase the angle of the feeder. There will be less tendency for brass to ride up to the top near the drop hole that shouldn't be there. You really want the brass that is not in a slot to fall back to the bottom before it makes it up that far.

[lablover]

I need to add a observation with case feeding.

Using it for depriming brass before cleaning, the crud on the brass gets under the plate and you can hear the motor start to strain just a tiny tiny bit. You may be able to hear it in the video. So as the crud builds up on the bottom of the bowl, the plate will rub on the crud. I solved the issue by placing a thin washer between the plate and the bowl. Really no way to add it in the print. Heck, you could even print a thin washer.

I deprimed about 500 pieces of dirty brass and it started building up fast. I’ll try and post a pic of the bottom of the plate to show.

269289

[lablover]

Looks good. I would increase the angle of the feeder. There will be less tendency for brass to ride up to the top near the drop hole that shouldn't be there. You really want the brass that is not in a slot to fall back to the bottom before it makes it up that far.


Good call, thank you

[HATCH]

Currently at 34%. I think I am 2 days 6 hrs into the print.
It should go faster as I am on the walls
About a inch of wall done

Just noticed that this section lifted off the build plate.
Guess I will have to heat it up and bend it back into shape and smooth the top surface
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/3a8cc16ed3907845f0cc821fe4be5ab3.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lablover]

I’d like to find a way to eliminate the spring for brass feeding. Got some more Lee tubes on the way

[GWS]

Currently at 34%. I think I am 2 days 6 hrs into the print.
It should go faster as I am on the walls
About a inch of wall done

Just noticed that this section lifted off the build plate.
Guess I will have to heat it up and bend it back into shape and smooth the top surface

Wow....sorry to hear that! I had my first base attempt do that after only 3 layers......Brand new at it, I stopped the print and went searching the net for answers. But you've got lots of time invested already, so I see why you'd not want to stop. Cause, on mine, was that I didn't wash the plate after the last print with strong Isopropyl alcohol. Never made that mistake again, and it's never reoccurred. Thank goodness, because I wouldn't have a clue what else to do.

You're using the tried and true blue tape system, and I know nothing about that. Creality's treated glass was on mine, so it's apples and oranges. Mine was ruined I had no choice but to start over.....will be interested to see how you fix it....most likely I will yet need that skill.

[Lakehouse2012]

makes them easier to load on progressive presses with bullet feeders.
All my cast boolits have bevel bases

Late to dinner on this one, but +1 for Hatch's comments. I demand BB on all my straight-wall cases. Huge time-save on the presses and no diminished performance.

[TylerR]

Wow....sorry to hear that! I had my first base attempt do that after only 3 layers......Brand new at it, I stopped the print and went searching the net for answers. But you've got lots of time invested already, so I see why you'd not want to stop. Cause, on mine, was that I didn't wash the plate after the last print with strong Isopropyl alcohol. Never made that mistake again, and it's never reoccurred. Thank goodness, because I wouldn't have a clue what else to do.

You're using the tried and true blue tape system, and I know nothing about that. Creality's treated glass was on mine, so it's apples and oranges. Mine was ruined I had no choice but to start over.....will be interested to see how you fix it....most likely I will yet need that skill.

I use this on my Ender 5. Took some 150 grit sandpaper and roughed up the surface. First layer adhesion is amazing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YFJTZCB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Lakehouse2012]

Will Do.

Hope this works


https://youtu.be/6x_5MMGSdU4

Holysmokes! I just noticed that you are in Macomb.... I'm North Oakland, I've printed 10K faceshields during the last 5 months for the medical industry, and Hatch was the one that got me into this "hobby" I'm really glad to see others participating. I will PM you next, I've got 3 CR-10's and looking for new projects. Lately I've been fine-tuning ABS printing... I think many of these parts could be stepped up with ABS.

[GWS]

Okay, Almost done. Will print a new version of the Baffle above the plate to prevent bullets from "resting" on top. But heck it works!

Boolits Point Down, and NO Ramp. Not that slow either.....

https://youtu.be/hYQbHhBwRGI

Screen shot of the Gcode of the new baffle I will print out tomorrow.....6 hours worth if you want to know. The baffle and shaped holes in the plate are how I get around the boolit flip ramp.

269301

What's the baffle for? With the baffle placed a tenth of a mm or two above the bullet diameter, bullet can only go in part way base down in the shaped holes......while point down falls right in. So the "part ways" are knocked back to the bottom for another try at going in point down.

None of this would have been possible without AmmoMike, Cast Boolits, TyerR, and my friends, RedlegEd, AR-bossman, and jmorris! Now look what you've done.....I'm totally hooked.

[Fil131]

Quote Originally Posted by mynameis940
Works flawlessly, I had one nose down out of the 1000 I loaded this evening. I got to say thank you so much Tyler, I got this thing set up so perfectly for how I want it now. Put it to the right of the case feeder where I have all my projectiles in akromils bins so it’s easy to throw the projectiles in. Also it holds and functions with so many more projectiles than the small one. Thank you so much.



I didn’t seem to have a problem with drilling it at all, took me about 1 minute and it didn’t get hot or anything. It could be because I went 1/8th like you suggested so it wasn’t too big of a hole.


I am very glad to hear it is working well now!

What was it that had to be printed again? I missed something...

[Fil131]

I need to add a observation with case feeding.

Using it for depriming brass before cleaning, the crud on the brass gets under the plate and you can hear the motor start to strain just a tiny tiny bit. You may be able to hear it in the video. So as the crud builds up on the bottom of the bowl, the plate will rub on the crud. I solved the issue by placing a thin washer between the plate and the bowl. Really no way to add it in the print. Heck, you could even print a thin washer.

I deprimed about 500 pieces of dirty brass and it started building up fast. I’ll try and post a pic of the bottom of the plate to show.

269289

I wet tumble any brass thats not brand spanking new before it goes through any of my machines. Just my preference and OCD

[o416]

Hey GWS, which turning plate are you using to get nose down bullets? I am using the original Ammo Mike design too but don't recall seeing a nose down slider plate as one piece.

Thx!


Okay, Almost done. Will print a new version of the Baffle above the plate to prevent bullets from "resting" on top. But heck it works!

Boolits Point Down, and NO Ramp. Not that slow either.....

https://youtu.be/hYQbHhBwRGI

Screen shot of the Gcode of the new baffle I will print out tomorrow.....6 hours worth if you want to know. The baffle and shaped holes in the plate are how I get around the boolit flip ramp.

269301

What's the baffle for? With the baffle placed a tenth of a mm or two above the bullet diameter, bullet can only go in part way base down in the shaped holes......while point down falls right in. So the "part ways" are knocked back to the bottom for another try at going in point down.

None of this would have been possible without AmmoMike, Cast Boolits, TyerR, and my friends, RedlegEd, AR-bossman, and jmorris! Now look what you've done.....I'm totally hooked.

[o416]

Everything I have printed and tested is with a .4 nozzle.

Not that size matters ;) But I am using a 0.8 nozzle and printing at 0.6mm layer height with good results; I print at 25 mm/s

It's definitely not as fine a print as 0.15mm but works perfectly fine for this project :)

Bonus is, super fast printes :D

[GWS]

Hey GWS, which turning plate are you using to get nose down bullets? I am using the original Ammo Mike design too but don't recall seeing a nose down slider plate as one piece.

Thx!

That's because I don't use a bullet turning slider plate for that.....the plate is just the flat plate to fill the hole. I made a special wheel with shaped bullet drops, and a baffle that is screwed to the base, a bullet width on top of drop wheel, that forces bullets to only drop point down......there is no bullet flipping going on .....just knocking wrong way bullets to the bottom since the baffle won't let wrong way bullets drop on in.

This is my way to totally bypass MBF patented bullet ramp and slide plates that flip bullets.....and I guarantee I won't be patenting this one. The ramp is there, but look closer.....it's not being used.

[JSATX]

Just a follow up on my previous post. I’m going to order one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC

The specs look absolutely perfect for what we’re trying to do, it’s widely available, and compared to the McMaster motor it’s way cheaper.

But I don’t have a way to modify the bullet feeder base. Would anyone be willing to make a version for this? The motor dimensions are below. I only use fusion360 for cad and unfortunately I find it very difficult to modify STL files with that program.

269302

[o416]

Hey Tyler!

Can you specify what constitutes large and small? In the case of the slides for nose down, there is large and small. Which calibers are we talking?

Thx!

[lablover]

Well, 2nd Tyler bullet feeder printing now. Should be done tomorrow morning.

[TylerR]

Hey Tyler!

Can you specify what constitutes large and small? In the case of the slides for nose down, there is large and small. Which calibers are we talking?

Thx!

I have tested these:

Small - 9mm and 380acp
Large - 45acp and 40sw

That being said I am pretty sure between the two, most pistol calibers can be handled. Worst case, create a caliber specific collator plate and use a set screw to adjust the location of the slide.

[TylerR]

Okay, Almost done. Will print a new version of the Baffle above the plate to prevent bullets from "resting" on top. But heck it works!

Boolits Point Down, and NO Ramp. Not that slow either.....

Screen shot of the Gcode of the new baffle I will print out tomorrow.....6 hours worth if you want to know. The baffle and shaped holes in the plate are how I get around the boolit flip ramp.

What's the baffle for? With the baffle placed a tenth of a mm or two above the bullet diameter, bullet can only go in part way base down in the shaped holes......while point down falls right in. So the "part ways" are knocked back to the bottom for another try at going in point down.

None of this would have been possible without AmmoMike, Cast Boolits, TyerR, and my friends, RedlegEd, AR-bossman, and jmorris! Now look what you've done.....I'm totally hooked.

Looking good GWS. Designing is very addictive isn't it?

[lablover]

Looking good GWS. Designing is very addictive isn't it?

Question on this. If one wants to modify a design, is it possible to make the design change on the .stl? If so, what software can be used? I was under the impression the .stl cant be modified. I try to use fusion 360 for any designing but am open to change

[TylerR]

Just a follow up on my previous post. I’m going to order one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC

The specs look absolutely perfect for what we’re trying to do, it’s widely available, and compared to the McMaster motor it’s way cheaper.

But I don’t have a way to modify the bullet feeder base. Would anyone be willing to make a version for this? The motor dimensions are below. I only use fusion360 for cad and unfortunately I find it very difficult to modify STL files with that program.

269302

I am not against creating and maintaining a base for another motor. Before doing that it would be nice to get some consensus on what really is the best motor out there that will work and is cheap and available.

[TylerR]

Question on this. If one wants to modify a design, is it possible to make the design change on the .stl? If so, what software can be used? I was under the impression the .stl cant be modified. I try to use fusion 360 for any designing but am open to change

Design spark can import an stl file and convert it to a "solid". Once this is done it can be manipulated. Flat surfaces are easy to make changes to. Any surface that is curved is not easily modified and must be recreated from scratch. So the stl is more of a template you can use to generate a working part.

[GWS]

Anyone try AutoDesks free MeshMixer? Directly edits STLs, but how well, I don't know....just now investigating more seriously:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCgP8VLFaz4&list=PLu8TYSQ5jCFhz0OkJCjECa-HXBQEAv546

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMaih-vPNr4

[TylerR]

Anyone try AutoDesks free MeshMixer? Directly edits STLs, but how well, I don't know....just now investigating:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCgP8VLFaz4&list=PLu8TYSQ5jCFhz0OkJCjECa-HXBQEAv546

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMaih-vPNr4

Yes, I tried playing around with it. It did not seem to work for what I was trying to do, but I can't say I put a ton of time in to it.

[AR-Bossman]

Same as TylerR.. I could not get a good feel for Meshmixer. Nothing I was doing needed that kind of editing.

[GWS]

Well I downloaded Meshmixer a while back and came to the same conclusion......but then I didn't think I needed Autocad's 3d either. Maybe I'll try a little harder.....have a closer looksee.

Printing the baffle update:

https://i.postimg.cc/hPpKpWfn/IMG-3588.jpg

The old one works, but it allows an occasional bullet to ride on top and not come down....and that'd be worse with a whole box of bullets. So I added a back wall to prevent that.

I think I'm getting addicted to candy green.....maybe I'll buy a similar roll of blue and red.....

[lablover]

Well I downloaded Meshmixer a while back and came to the same conclusion......but then I didn't think I needed Autocad's 3d either. Maybe I'll try a little harder.....have a closer looksee.

Printing the baffle update:

https://i.postimg.cc/hPpKpWfn/IMG-3588.jpg

The old one works, but it allows an occasional bullet to ride on top and not come down....and that'd be worse with a whole box of bullets. So I added a back wall to prevent that.

I think I'm getting addicted to candy green.....maybe I'll buy a similar roll of blue and red.....

I need to get a roll of that!

[AR-Bossman]

I need to get a roll of that!

Yeah that green is pretty cool looking. I have some green from another company and I had to do all kinds of changes to get it to print acceptable.

GWS.. what green is that?

[GWS]

It's called Green Silk Composite from Zyltec in Houston Texas. http://www.zyltech.com/pla/ I think the Blue Silk would be cool too! Plan to order some....

It's been a dream to print with....and I'm a beginner. Layers are .2. It's still got an hour to print, but here's so far:

https://i.postimg.cc/HW5PzQv9/IMG-3594.jpg

The following is the original part, but lots of bullets climbed onto the ledge which was tapered but not enough when the whole feeder is tilted back, so, I punted. ;) (btw, the feeder in this mode works 100% tilted only 20 degrees)
https://i.postimg.cc/zGt4nJMk/IMG-3511.jpg

[GWS]

It's finished....

Last three pictures. First, before replacing the baffle with the new one.
https://i.postimg.cc/qMqwYyjF/IMG-3599.jpg
Then after:
https://i.postimg.cc/tJS5J4CD/IMG-3600.jpg
The "logs" sticking out combined with the small ribs on the plate wheel knock over any boolits standing upright.
https://i.postimg.cc/66YzYYLR/IMG-3601.jpg

I know....a lot of Green.;)

[RedlegEd]

Hi GWS,
Your pictures aren't coming through.
Ed

ETA: Never mind. It appears this is my browser's issue.

[GWS]

Really? Which post #'s don't work.......they do from my end so I would never know. Wonder if the site is doing something different?

I type, then the image address with no spaces before or after then like I always have, and they show normal from my computer......

[RedlegEd]

Really? Which post #'s don't work.......they do from my end so I would never know. Wonder if the site is doing something different?

I type, then the image address with no spaces before or after then like I always have, and they show normal from my computer......

Guess what?!?! They show up just fine with Chrome, but not Firefox. Mmmmm. Might need to relook at which browser I'm using.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi GWS,
Your pictures aren't coming through.
Ed

ETA: Never mind. It appears this is my browser's issue.

I'm not sure. I am in chrome but I still don't see any pictures in his last couple of posts. They were showing up fine before that.

[RedlegEd]

I'm not sure. I am in chrome but I still don't see any pictures in his last couple of posts. They were showing up fine before that.

Just checked again in Chrome and it's not working now. When I did see them, they were pretty neat.
Ed

[GWS]

This is too weird!

Do you see this?

https://i.postimg.cc/tJS5J4CD/IMG-3600.jpg

How about as an attachment......

269363

I sure see them and I'm using Firefox. Double weird. Wonder if Cast Boolits is doing something.....band width wise?

[RedlegEd]

This is too weird!

Do you see this?

https://i.postimg.cc/tJS5J4CD/IMG-3600.jpg

How about as an attachment......

269363

I sure see them and I'm using Firefox. Double weird. Wonder if Cast Boolits is doing something.....band width wise?

Yep, I can see them now.
Ed

[GWS]

What about the old ones....are they back.....is it getting too green around here?! ;-)

On the other forum I explained why the plate and baffle system......just going to quote that here so people understand how this works.


The bullet drop wheel/plate has shaped holes with 2 diameter holes, one smaller than the other tangents connected.

That way, as long as the baffle above the wheel is no higher (minimum clearance) than a sideways bullet then bullets can only fall point down. Bullets that try to fall in base down are stuck part in and part out until they reach the knocker which knocks them back to the bottom. Watch the video again and you'll see what I mean.....

So no flipping ramp or drop plate is needed. (and no patent infringement either)

[Fil131]

Anyone need a 223 plate and 308 plate with shaft?

I accidentally printed one of each without the hex. These are the bigger ones for Tyler’s bigger design. They are printed on Prusament PETG.

Just pay shipping plus 3 bucks and I’ll mail them to you.

If no one wants them I’ll just keep them just in case I have issues with the hex as I had to drill the motor shaft and shorten the Allen screws that came with the hex connectors as well as locktight them. I had them back out after just running the collator for less than 45 minutes just to test function.

269375

[lablover]

Anyone need a 223 plate and 308 plate with shaft?

I accidentally printed one of each without the hex. These are the bigger ones for Tyler’s bigger design. They are printed on Prusament PETG.

Just pay shipping plus 3 bucks and I’ll mail them to you.

If no one wants them I’ll just keep them just in case I have issues with the hex as I had to drill the motor shaft and shorten the Allen screws that came with the hex connectors as well as locktight them. I had them back out after just running the collator for less than 45 minutes just to test function.

269375


Great tip on the loctite! I also had to shorted the little lock screw as it was too long. Keep the plates, you never know. I also need to print some 223 hex plates.

[Fil131]

Great tip on the loctite! I also had to shorted the little lock screw as it was too long. Keep the plates, you never know. I also need to print some 223 hex plates.

Might be a good idea to source the connectors in steel or anything stronger than brass, we'll see how it goes and shortening the allen screws was easy but a PITA definitely use loctite I can't stress that enough... My press should be arriving Thursday so hopefully I'll be setup to reload by the end of the weekend. I know the RL1100 is pretty quick and easy to put together but I'll have to ready my bench and make it sturdier than it is currently. I also have to decide what to do about the overhead shelving that will be in the way of my bullet feeder and case feeder. I'm using a harbor freight wood bench for now, all of this while installing my own solar on my house... No rest for the wicked.

[TylerR]

If no one wants them I’ll just keep them just in case I have issues with the hex as I had to drill the motor shaft and shorten the Allen screws that came with the hex connectors as well as locktight them. I had them back out after just running the collator for less than 45 minutes just to test function.


Which motor are you using again?

[Fil131]

Which motor are you using again?

I ended up buying the McMaster because it seems to be the best. I had bought a JGY-370 but kept it in the box unused since you stated it would be underpowered for your bigger build.

[TylerR]

I ended up buying the McMaster because it seems to be the best. I had bought a JGY-370 but kept it in the box unused since you stated it would be underpowered for your bigger build.

Why did you have to drill the motor shaft when using the hex coupler?

[Fil131]

Why did you have to drill the motor shaft when using the hex coupler?

The allen screws were too long and rather than find an assortment of different lengths and being that the hex adapter is brass I felt it necessary to drill at least a dimple where each screw attached to the shaft, the rest of the length I shaved down with my angle grinder so it would fit within the plate.

[lablover]

The allen screws were too long and rather than find an assortment of different lengths and being that the hex adapter is brass I felt it necessary to drill at least a dimple where each screw attached to the shaft, the rest of the length I shaved down with my angle grinder so it would fit within the plate.

Maybe Tyler could incorporate a small notch in the hex plate to miss the set screw? I just ground mine down till it was flush with the brass hex coupler.

Second Tyler feeder is printed and ready to go. Gonna try the proximity sensor this time

God I love these things. Complete roll of pla gone!

[TylerR]

The allen screws were too long and rather than find an assortment of different lengths and being that the hex adapter is brass I felt it necessary to drill at least a dimple where each screw attached to the shaft, the rest of the length I shaved down with my angle grinder so it would fit within the plate.

Without drilling the dimple, how far our does the set screw stick out in mm?

[Fil131]

Without drilling the dimple, how far our does the set screw stick out in mm?

On the round side it's more than the flat side, but I'd rather buy shorter allen screws or shave them down myself. I'm sure they(Hex adaptors) are not all created equal so I would hate to ask for the design to be modified.

[lablover]

TylerR

I have a request. Ive printed GWS excellent proximity sensor rig and after I was done and went to install I realized something. It's set up at the top of the feeder so it leaves a very long column of bullets in the spring etc. Would it be too much to create the same thing as GWS did but have it set on top of the DAA die like the light sensor tube does? The way it is now it wont fit on the die correctly. I really like the Proximity sensor idea and its clean. Just a thought. I know you mentioned you were also interested in his idea.

[TylerR]

On the round side it's more than the flat side, but I'd rather buy shorter allen screws or shave them down myself. I'm sure they(Hex adaptors) are not all created equal so I would hate to ask for the design to be modified.

I added the option to create a slot for the screw to the plate generator.

[TylerR]

TylerR

I have a request. Ive printed GWS excellent proximity sensor rig and after I was done and went to install I realized something. It's set up at the top of the feeder so it leaves a very long column of bullets in the spring etc. Would it be too much to create the same thing as GWS did but have it set on top of the DAA die like the light sensor tube does? The way it is now it wont fit on the die correctly. I really like the Proximity sensor idea and its clean. Just a thought. I know you mentioned you were also interested in his idea.

I would have to take a look at it. The one issue is its not a one size fits all. Any tube the bullet travels thru (or more importantly stops in) has to be caliber specific for the most part. It is basically a replacement for the drop tube. Or the drop tube modified to mount the proximity sensor housing. Can you post a link to the stl files?

[lablover]

I would have to take a look at it. The one issue is its not a one size fits all. Any tube the bullet travels thru has to be caliber specific for the most part. It is basically a replacement for the drop tube. Or the drop tube modified to mount the proximity sensor housing. Can you post a link to the stl files?

Hmmm, never thought of that. GWS, sent me the .stl files. Not sure how I can get them to you. Again, may not work at all now that you mention it.

Might be easier to stick with the light sensor

[j_dude77]

What size screws is everyone using for the drop hole adapter and the ramp?

[Fil131]

What size screws is everyone using for the drop hole adapter and the ramp?

Bought one of these. Decent assortment.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1001-piece-nut-and-bolt-storehouse-67628.html

[GWS]

I would have to take a look at it. The one issue is its not a one size fits all. Any tube the bullet travels thru (or more importantly stops in) has to be caliber specific for the most part. It is basically a replacement for the drop tube. Or the drop tube modified to mount the proximity sensor housing. Can you post a link to the stl files?

Not really a replacement for the drop tube, because you don't have to make one for each caliber. The reason I prefer to mount the sensor near the feeder is for that very reason. Look at all the drop tubes you have to print for different calibers for the light sensor. I don't have to touch the proximity sensor no matter what caliber I want to feed....just the bullet collator parts....maybe....and of course the feeder die on the press and the tubing that fits it. You just reduce to that. That's the easy part.

What I do, I've been doing long before I bought the 3d printer. The stl's I sent you will work for any caliber until you get past the sensor. Then you have to step it down with reduced tubing to mate with the feed die on your press.

I did this, for example, for .40 s&W:

https://i.postimg.cc/XN9wVKqh/28.jpg
My .40 kit.....the die and reduction tubing.

Before I marked them with labels:

https://i.postimg.cc/XJC9Bd8r/29.jpg

another view another caliber this time .45ACP:

https://i.postimg.cc/J03JP8Sm/45-from-switch-to-the-die.jpg

If these 3 pictures don't show up please let me know and I'll attach them.

Like I said this was before I found 3d printing....now instead of gluing telescoping tubes I can print those parts....but I don't have to move the poximity sensor.....it doesn't care what caliber, the way it's mounted.

TylerR, if you want any stls, dwgs or whatever, just email me and I'll send them.....or I can email RedlegEd and he can pass them on.

If you don't want them, that's okay too. Not trying to change anybody! :)

[HATCH]

For those wondering, I am at 95% on my long 5 day extra fine print.
If it dies tonight I will still be fine as it’s pretty much done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Yeah, Hatch! On pins and needles waiting for the finish line! Really interested to see it. Wish you and the print well. Expecting to learn something.

BTW, do you know why my pictures posted with "[IMG][\IMG]" sometimes don't show up? Should we "attach" them instead for a reason?....again, learning.

[lablover]

Not really a replacement for the drop tube, because you don't have to make one for each caliber. The reason I prefer to mount the sensor near the feeder is for that very reason. Look at all the drop tubes you have to print for different calibers for the light sensor. I don't have to touch the proximity sensor no matter what caliber I want to feed....just the bullet collator parts....maybe....and of course the feeder die on the press and the tubing that fits it. You just reduce to that. That's the easy part.

What I do, I've been doing long before I bought the 3d printer. The stl's I sent you will work for any caliber until you get past the sensor. Then you have to step it down with reduced tubing to mate with the feed die on your press.

I did this, for example, for .40 s&W:

https://i.postimg.cc/XN9wVKqh/28.jpg
My .40 kit.....the die and reduction tubing.

Before I marked them with labels:

https://i.postimg.cc/XJC9Bd8r/29.jpg

another view another caliber this time .45ACP:

https://i.postimg.cc/J03JP8Sm/45-from-switch-to-the-die.jpg

If these 3 pictures don't show up please let me know and I'll attach them.

Like I said this was before I found 3d printing....now instead of gluing telescoping tubes I can print those parts....but I don't have to move the poximity sensor.....it doesn't care what caliber, the way it's mounted.

TylerR, if you want any stls, dwgs or whatever, just email me and I'll send them.....or I can email RedlegEd and he can pass them on.

If you don't want them, that's okay too. Not trying to change anybody! :)


Totally get it. I like it. Time to hit fusion and make some adapters. Thanks a million sir

[TylerR]

Not really a replacement for the drop tube, because you don't have to make one for each caliber. The reason I prefer to mount the sensor near the feeder is for that very reason. Look at all the drop tubes you have to print for different calibers for the light sensor. I don't have to touch the proximity sensor no matter what caliber I want to feed....just the bullet collator parts....maybe....and of course the feeder die on the press and the tubing that fits it. You just reduce to that. That's the easy part.

another view another caliber this time .45ACP:

https://i.postimg.cc/J03JP8Sm/45-from-switch-to-the-die.jpg
:)

I love the idea of the fewest parts possible. That is definitely the goal. And I love seeing new ideas and people designing new stuff!

I am not sure I completely agree the sensor set up you have working for all calibers. Looking at the picture, if you were try to feed .223 rifle bullets in to that wide tube at the sensor would they not stack side by side and block feeding to whatever eventually is reducing it down to .22? Bullets just passing through a tube that is too wide is not such an issue, but if they are stopping in that tube things get clogged up. That is ultimately why there is a smaller feed spring and a drop tube that reduces down to the correct caliber (or close enough), whether is .45 or .22.

Unless I am missing something, which happens more and more the older I get. lol

[HATCH]

Yeah, Hatch! On pins and needles waiting for the finish line! Really interested to see it. Wish you and the print well. Expecting to learn something.

BTW, do you know why my pictures posted with "[IMG][\IMG]" sometimes don't show up? Should we "attach" them instead for a reason?....again, learning.

I do 99% of my posting from my phone using Tapatalk
Size is always a issue with pictures. Think it’s like a 3 meg limit or something
Like I said pretty much all my posting is done with my phone


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GWS]

You're welcome....I wish your project well. Be sure, whether you are telescoping the cheap clear tube or printing adapters, make sure you have bevels at each transition smaller or bullets will hang. You don't want ANY ledges, period. Or anywhere where a bullet can clog by wedging sideways.

The sensor doesn't care whether you have tubing between it and the bullet as long as it isn't more than 1/4" away. For really small bullets you might even want to stick a piece of clear tubing or a plastic beveled tube even as high as the top of the sensor, to keep them from laying sideways. The fact that you make stuff with 3d printers, tells me you can figure out what you need for what you reload.

[GWS]

I do 99% of my posting from my phone using Tapatalk
Size is always a issue with pictures. Think it’s like a 3 meg limit or something
Like I said pretty much all my posting is done with my phone


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I know the size limit....it won't even let you post them if they are too big, but what in the world would cause them to be seen, then later disappear, then later reappear like mine did yesterday.....I was beginning to think I was bad luck.....well maybe that's true.....

[theundeadelvis]

I've been a lurker for a while but wanted to pop in and say thank you to TylerR for his work. I just did a mockup and test run of the case feeder and it is amazing! I've got a little stutter that I think is that spring loaded piece catching on the collater plate, so I'll file it down a bit. But I am super excited to get this mounted!

Imgur gif of it in action: https://imgur.com/a/uaKQZef

Thanks TylerR and everyone else who contributed!

[JSATX]

I am not against creating and maintaining a base for another motor. Before doing that it would be nice to get some consensus on what really is the best motor out there that will work and is cheap and available.

I havn't had any of them in my hands yet so my reason for wanting one is it's large/powerful, cheap, and amazon Prime availability.

The McMaster is nice, but at $80 it's spendy. Not that I have any problem paying $80, but on something that I have never used it and don't yet know how well it will work it's a little hard to justify.

The other motor you just created last on ebay looks nice, but currently only available from China with a multi-week lead time and may or may not arrive with the latest trendy disease.

The Amazon one seems to fall right in the center of everything.

I am nearly done with the AM original/JGY370/smaller version. Everything is printed, I am only waiting on electronics to show up. I'm starting your larger version on the printer now.

[TylerR]

I've been a lurker for a while but wanted to pop in and say thank you to TylerR for his work. I just did a mockup and test run of the case feeder and it is amazing! I've got a little stutter that I think is that spring loaded piece catching on the collater plate, so I'll file it down a bit. But I am super excited to get this mounted!

Imgur gif: https://imgur.com/a/uaKQZef

Thanks TylerR and everyone else who contributed!

Thank you very much. Looks great! Which motor did you used?

In watching your video and the stutter, it makes me realize that the spring loaded "flipper" as it has been called (should probably call it the knocker or something), is probably not even necessary for base down brass feeding. If you run the feeder at the correct angle, any brass that is not fully in a slot should just fall back to the bottom on its own, and not even get to the flipper. It is really more for knocking out bullets that end up partially in the slot.

I have a part that is made for the brass base up feeding that disables the flipper. I can include it in my next update, hopefully coming soon.

Your spring tension on that part might be a little strong as well. You could try maybe cutting a few coils off. I have just been stealing springs from ball point pens for that.

[TylerR]

I havn't had any of them in my hands yet so my reason for wanting one is it's large/powerful, cheap, and amazon Prime availability.

The McMaster is nice, but at $80 it's spendy. Not that I have any problem paying $80, but on something that I have never used it and don't yet know how well it will work it's a little hard to justify.

The other motor you just created last on ebay looks nice, but currently only available from China with a multi-week lead time and may or may not arrive with the latest trendy disease.

The Amazon one seems to fall right in the center of everything.

I am nearly done with the AM original/JGY370/smaller version. Everything is printed, I am only waiting on electronics to show up. I'm starting your larger version on the printer now.

I will put together a new base with the hole spacing for that motor and you can try it out.

do you have the motor in hand already? I am looking at the hole spacing diagram and it leaves a few things to be assumed, which I hate to do. If you have one I wouldn't mind confirming some measurements.

[theundeadelvis]

Thank you very much. Looks great! Which motor did you used?

In watching your video and the stutter, it makes me realize that the spring loaded "flipper" as it has been called (should probably call it the knocker or something), is probably not even necessary for base down brass feeding. If you run the feeder at the correct angle, any brass that is not fully in a slot should just fall back to the bottom on its own, and not even get to the flipper. It is really more for knocking out bullets that end up partially in the slot.

I have a part that is made for the brass base up feeding that disables the flipper. I can include it in my next update, hopefully coming soon.

Your spring tension on that part might be a little strong as well. You could try maybe cutting a few coils off. I have just been stealing springs from ball point pens for that.

Thanks for the feedback! I'll give your suggestions a try.

I'm using the McMaster-Carr motor. I just drilled a hole in the shaft and ran a roll pin through it. Works great!

[Lakehouse2012]

ETZGMP38 - https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

Im working on a buddy in China who might be able to to get then, much cheaper...

[JSATX]

I will put together a new base with the hole spacing for that motor and you can try it out.

do you have the motor in hand already? I am looking at the hole spacing diagram and it leaves a few things to be assumed, which I hate to do. If you have one I wouldn't mind confirming some measurements.

It will arrive tomorrow. What dimension are you looking for?

[JSATX]

Side note. I noticed a lot of people print the flipper plate horizontally. I wasn’t having good luck with that. Tried it vertically and it’s so much better! WAY smoother. 269448

[GWS]

I love the idea of the fewest parts possible. That is definitely the goal. And I love seeing new ideas and people designing new stuff!

I am not sure I completely agree the sensor set up you have working for all calibers. Looking at the picture, if you were try to feed .223 rifle bullets in to that wide tube at the sensor would they not stack side by side and block feeding to whatever eventually is reducing it down to .22? Bullets just passing through a tube that is too wide is not such an issue, but if they are stopping in that tube things get clogged up. That is ultimately why there is a smaller feed spring and a drop tube that reduces down to the correct caliber (or close enough), whether is .45 or .22.

Unless I am missing something, which happens more and more the older I get. lol

Well I'm probably older than you and yes it happens a lot. The main reason I hang out around you guys is you guys are smarter. I prefer to keep company with people who can keep me on my toes, and that happens here.

I made a short video to illustrate why this works. I know it does because I make it work on my existing Hornady mod. 3d prints can make it work even better because you can do things you can't do any other way without a machine shop.

My first "down tube" is for .45, the second one is for .40 and .38. You upped the bar quite a bit expecting it to do .223! It can, but first look at the video.....you'll notice at the end I move the green tube higher in front of and even above the sensor. Because for .22 you will have to. Most of the funneling will have to be done before it gets to the sensor.


https://youtu.be/QpJS2matxYc

Now.....I said that I'd have to make a longer tube that rises in front of the sensor.....I also said in another post that the proximity sensor could detect metal 1/4" away.............well that's true for big dense stuff like .45 and even 308 bullets, but I knew sensitivity goes down for low density things.......like .22 bullets. So tonight I measured it. It detects .22's a maximum of 3/32" away.

That means the tube for small caliber bullet will have to be offset from the center closer to the sensor. Guess what! I can bore a hole through the cylinder anywhere I want, in fact I can even curve it so it goes back to center at each end.....and be within specs. So yes, I think it can work for any caliber. The parts to replicate are the simple down tubes in the video to mate one end with the collator and the other with the spring or clear tube that goes to the feeder die.

So yes I have to make down tubes for each caliber.....but they are just tubes....even if some will have to be longer and bored offset.

I'll get busy and design a .223 version and we will see. Dang! 3D printing is fun! Finally something I'm not sick and tired of! ;)

Still haven't got my mount made for this tool! In the real world other people don't just drop what they are doing and jump at my command. :) Especially not my welder nephew!

[TylerR]

Looks great GWS. I love the setup and solutions you are working on. I myself have not even started to play around with .223/5.56 but that will be my next project, and I know whatever I am modifying from the original design has to account for that.

[HATCH]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201015/d133cd432082cfe6258ea22bcd857fb1.jpg


The area near the ramp lifted up off the build plate.
I will have to smooth that out some and might need to heat it and reshape it. And depending on how far off it is might need to fill it in (add additional plastic.

The cool part with working with plastics is that you can add some heat to fuse stuff back together or to change shapes.

I purchased a unit from a guy.
I hadn’t even got it assembled 100% and the walls had separated.
I used a butane fired torch the heat it up and fuse them back together.


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[GWS]

Looks great from here! Wonder if you could dip that corner in a pan of boiling water to soften it, then press it on the kitchen counter and hold it down with gloves? Wonder what temperature it actually melts and deforms?

Or I wonder if that corner will really affect anything? Wouldn't the higher layers eventually even out? Surely the nozzle isn't going to rise just for that corner?

I just got a new roll of black from Overture. Maybe it's time to print out that up-sized base myself. Time to try one to collate rifle bullets.......case feeding is just a future dream at this point.

Oh! One question.....you didn't iron the top layers did you? I haven't tried that myself. Has anyone? Pictures of the resulting surface?

[HATCH]

It will melt if placed in boiling water.
Think what temp the extruder is when it is making the part.

You could use a hot hair dryer most likely.

Fine sandpaper or a fine file will smooth out some imperfections as well.

[GWS]

See that's what I don't know......I print at 210 degrees centigrade and water boiling is only 100C. The base is 60C and that doesn't melt.....

I'll test that today on my few layers of first fail. You may be right.

[HATCH]

I thought it was 200f?


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[HATCH]

My mistake


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[pastera]

PLA is workable over 60 C - it isn't melted but is soft enough to deform and hold shape once cooled.

That's why we run the bed at around 60 - to keep the base layer near glass transition so it can relieve stress that would normally pull the part off the build plate.