Making that Bullet Collator

[azlester]

Something like an APP press perhaps????????

[GWS]

Almost.....a start at least.....using my big ole 2" ram hefty RCBS Summit press. My favorite part of the APP idea is a case and bullet feeder/collator on a single station press.....maybe on a frame that would last two life times. That was actually why I bought an APP in the first place....to see if the Summit could be something much more than just an odd single station press, that does a few things very well.

We will see. Summit/APP Frankenstein? :)

https://i.postimg.cc/wvwVT9Cx/fc5a-Summit.jpg
Notice the big nut die adapter on top of the Summit? Lee already makes a quick change adapter for that.

https://i.postimg.cc/kXrpYPrV/Summit-Base-Model.png

Above is only the first proof of concept trial drawings....still perfecting....

If I want to go all the way, and have dies underneath as well....much more work would be ahead. (drilling and tapping below) In a perfect world Lee and RCBS could get together and make a joint Ultimate APP ..... an APP Summit? ;) (never happen of course)

[TylerR]

Almost.....a start at least.....using my big ole 2" ram hefty RCBS Summit press. My favorite part of the APP idea is a case and bullet feeder/collator on a single station press.....maybe on a frame that would last two life times. That was actually why I bought an APP in the first place....to see if the Summit could be something much more than just an odd single station press, that does a few things very well.

We will see. Summit/APP Frankenstein? :)

https://i.postimg.cc/wvwVT9Cx/fc5a-Summit.jpg
Notice the big nut die adapter on top of the Summit? Lee already makes a quick change adapter for that.

https://i.postimg.cc/kXrpYPrV/Summit-Base-Model.png

Above is only the first proof of concept trial drawings....still perfecting....

If I want to go all the way, and have dies underneath as well....much more work would be ahead. (drilling and tapping below) In a perfect world Lee and RCBS could get together and make a joint Ultimate APP ..... an APP Summit? ;) (never happen of course)

Love what you got going on here. great concept.

[r4ndy]

Don't know, that's a TylerR question....he must be tired of this thread or still doing championship baseball with his kids! ;)

My current project is a little different..... anybody guess what? The green tool base is the hint.... Just having some fun..... Ordered a new quick change bench plate for it....


Automation for case prep for a Rock Chucker?

Edit...I should have scrolled down :veryconfu

[Sig]

I completed my first bullet collator a few months back & couldn't be happier with how it functions. Now I want to make a brass collator for my LNL that currently uses a Lee style collator with the funnel and 4 tubes. It will be used primarily for 9mm. Ideally I'd make the 300mm version but my printer can't accommodate the size (Ender 3 Pro). I'm thinking the standard main body will do for 9mm. I know I can also add the wall extender. I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts.
Thanks.

[GWS]

I completed my first bullet collator a few months back & couldn't be happier with how it functions. Now I want to make a brass collator for my LNL that currently uses a Lee style collator with the funnel and 4 tubes. It will be used primarily for 9mm. Ideally I'd make the 300mm version but my printer can't accommodate the size (Ender 3 Pro). I'm thinking the standard main body will do for 9mm. I know I can also add the wall extender. I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts.
Thanks.

The standard main body is more than fine for most.....even .223, as I demonstrated in a video a page or 3 back. The additional problem of feeding cases to your LnL shell plate, this site has no answers for, but many Hornady owners have been successful with the downtube interface files on Thingiverse here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2488944 Or maybe you already found and use that on your Lee four-way tube feeder.

But here's a video of TylerR's standard body collator with a large pistol bullet plate that does fine for me for .9mm, .40, ,.45, .357, and even .223 rifle cases:

In this case 9mm (too fast, however, so I turned down the speed just a little and did away with the occasional slow case):


https://youtu.be/U-a7gFfGDOw

Use this plus the Thingiverse files to drop into your Hornady.

[azlester]

Well the first video is almost done downloading on YouTube... my internet is so slow it has taken more then 4 hours to upload a 9 min video....
Anyways here is the link
https://youtu.be/t6O1aGRbbzo

[GWS]

Finally found a longer spring, so my RCBS Summit/Lee APP hybrid is good to go using TylerR's Quick Change for speed. Works on .270, and .223 really well, but I need to modify the .308 insert a little to keep them from escaping premature....just didn't design that one quite as tight. I'll work on it Thursday...out of town til then.

Below.....a video feeding .223. Notice I surrounded the spring with a thinwall clear rigid tube.....it seems that the Lee tool doesn't need it, but its spring is 4" long. The Summit required 5", and at that length it tended to fold....the clear tube cured that fast. You can see that in the opening picture below:


https://youtu.be/t_eyE792EnY

[cheese1566]

Success (I hope!!)
46 hour print
302579

[cheese1566]

I've done searches and read a lot of the posts,

Is there a general list of screws to use for assembly?
(Rather than, a generic assortment box.)
I work at an agriculture department store and have a vast selection of screws at my finger tips.

Some say they use #2 x 1/4",,,is that #2 sheet metal / wood or a machine screw thread <which is pretty darn tiny!>

[wbbh]

I've done searches and read a lot of the posts,

Is there a general list of screws to use for assembly?
(Rather than, a generic assortment box.)
I work at an agriculture department store and have a vast selection of screws at my finger tips.

Some say they use #2 x 1/4",,,is that #2 sheet metal / wood or a machine screw thread <which is pretty darn tiny!>

I posted a chart in post 5803, there are few additions/changes in the next few posts.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5386312&viewfull=1#post5386312

[GWS]

.....Works on .270, and .223 really well, but I need to modify the .308 insert a little to keep them from escaping premature....just didn't design that one quite as tight. I'll work on it Thursday...out of town til then.

Okay, I got the .308 working. Picture below shows the first two less fitting caliber insert designs to the right, ideal shape on the left for inserts that work more sure:

https://i.postimg.cc/CxcB2xFG/IMG_4068.jpg

Just make sure the drop tube isn't pivoted back too far...... tighten the bolt so it doesn't move, or it might do as happened testing .270 when they came two at a time, due to the first one falling on the edge of the fingers. :)

The difference a tight fit makes was more than worth reprinting......308 now works without anything falling or flying across the room. ;)


https://youtu.be/awMYQXX-Kzo

[azlester]

Okay, I got the .308 working. Picture below shows the first two less fitting caliber insert designs to the right, ideal shape on the left for inserts that work more sure:

https://i.postimg.cc/CxcB2xFG/IMG_4068.jpg

Just make sure the drop tube isn't pivoted back too far...... tighten the bolt so it doesn't move, or it might do as the following video where .270 came two at a time, due to the first one falling on the edge of the fingers. :)


https://youtu.be/RXtHA1el0AU


The difference a tight fit makes was more than worth reprinting......308 now works without anything falling or flying across the room. ;)


https://youtu.be/awMYQXX-Kzo

Looks Great!!!!!!!!!!

[Sig]

I have an issue with my LNL if I place the bullet feeder in station 3 next to the powder measure. The proximity sensor housing & spring connector interfere with the movement of the linkage. I'm curious whether the offset for the Lee APP would fit between the bullet feeder die & the proximity sensor housing? This is only an issue when I'm loading cast or PC bullets as I want to seat & crimp in separate stations. Any help would be much appreciated.

Edit: I believe I found the answer in post #5392 in this thread. It should work.

302697

[Arcrunner]

I have an issue with my LNL if I place the bullet feeder in station 3 next to the powder measure. The proximity sensor housing & spring connector interfere with the movement of the linkage. I'm curious whether the offset for the Lee APP would fit between the bullet feeder die & the proximity sensor housing? This is only an issue when I'm loading cast or PC bullets as I want to seat & crimp in separate stations. Any help would be much appreciated.

Edit: I believe I found the answer in post #5392 in this thread. It should work.

302697



I also run the bullet feeder in station 3, but I just turned the powder measure so that the linkage is towards the primer tube shield. I initially did this because the DAA magnetic powder die would stick to the linkage.

[Arcrunner]

Hi all, just wanted to share my manual drive mod until my motors get here. Probably going to make the mating surface more 45 degree ish so I can print the shaft without supports. Currently it looks like a cylinder on one side, hex on the plate side, and a 3mm thick wider cylinder in between. I made this for the JG motor setup. Works great, printed everything in PETG. Using BNU plate 5 for 9mm and works great, but need to try one of the others for flat point 147's. I made a few bullet feeders out of PVC and a bucket with my CNC while I was learning the mechanics of how to design one, but wanted to tackle making this one as well since I can make them in prettier colors than hard to paint HDPE buckets :razz:

https://i.imgur.com/Pp6ORsv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n9E13y6.png

[cheese1566]

Anyone have a remnant spring about 12" long for 9mm boolits in the scrap box?

I just need a short piece from the collator to the Star sizer.

[Arcrunner]

Anyone have a remnant spring about 12" long for 9mm boolits in the scrap box?

I just need a short piece from the collator to the Star sizer.

If you really need one in a pinch, that 9/16" OD extension spring from HD works great, and fits spring adapter 12

[rsp111]

Wondering if anyone has a case insert file for 284 winchester or 6.5 prc?

Or a scad file to customize

[cheese1566]

If you really need one in a pinch, that 9/16" OD extension spring from HD works great, and fits spring adapter 12

Thanks!
Found one down the street at Tractor Supply for $6 that is 16". More than enough. The adapters had to be mirrored for the threads , but no problem and I learned something new in Cura.

[GWS]

Last 2 videos of my Summit/Lee APP Hybrid project........this one to show you how fast caliber changes can be with TylerR's quick change case feed parts. Same caliber change speed on a normal Lee APP of course if you print TylerR's parts that is.


https://youtu.be/qfCKRaScrA0

As is my style....a How to put it together video. Free .stl files can be had for the asking, for the rare souls who have a Summit. ;) I think single station presses without case feeders will someday soon be the rarities.


https://youtu.be/gyegqlNLMM8

This may be real close to my last project and posts to this wild long thread. Enjoy your reloading and printing! For me, it's been a fun ride! Thanks be to AmmoMike, Redleg Red, and especially TylerR for all the inspiration here at CastBoolits.

Oh! One more to thank....Inline Fabrication's flush mount quickchange press mounts.....Love 'em.....and I only put one extra threaded hole in it.

[paflyfisher]

Anyone want a free photo sensor setup for the collator? Just wire up the motor and add a power supply and you're done.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/748652796513091659/986814011251253368/unknown.png

Any chance you still have this?

[TylerR]

Wondering if anyone has a case insert file for 284 winchester or 6.5 prc?

Or a scad file to customize

Those do not currently exist. It was not designed in scad. I can take a look at it at some point.

[TylerR]

Last 2 videos of my Summit/Lee APP Hybrid project........this one to show you how fast caliber changes can be with TylerR's quick change case feed parts. Same caliber change speed on a normal Lee APP of course if you print TylerR's parts that is.

As is my style....a How to put it together video. Free .stl files can be had for the asking, for the rare souls who have a Summit. ;) I think single station presses without case feeders will someday soon be the rarities.

This may be real close to my last project and posts to this wild long thread. Enjoy your reloading and printing! For me, it's been a fun ride! Thanks be to AmmoMike, Redleg Red, and especially TylerR for all the inspiration here at CastBoolits.

Oh! One more to thank....Inline Fabrication's flush mount quickchange press mounts.....Love 'em.....and I only put one extra threaded hole in it.

Very nice design work as usual GWS. and nice instructional video for anyone who wants to use it.

This has been a fun ride, hasn't it? I am not here often because life keeps me so busy, but I do try to keep up when I can.

[Tom Myers]

GWS,

This query diverges from the present topic trend but, some time ago, I beleive you commented on your method of coloring your embossed 3D text. Could you please comment again on the method used or post a link to the previous posting.

Thank you for your atttention.

[GWS]

GWS,

This query diverges from the present topic trend but, some time ago, I beleive you commented on your method of coloring your embossed 3D text. Could you please comment again on the method used or post a link to the previous posting.

Thank you for your atttention.


https://i.postimg.cc/cCFXDZGQ/IMG_3947.jpg

That's just pressing a "Meanstreak" paint stick into the recesses, then using mineral spirits to wipe the excess off. I started doing that on RCBS's black dies because I couldn't see the sizes/calibers any more with my old eyes.

The following video shows a metal powder die extention getting the treatment....


https://youtu.be/NfxckRpYyi0

[Huntinherrington]

Where can I find files for the AmmoMike style bullet feeders? All the links I find have been taken down.

[GWS]

Where can I find files for the AmmoMike based bullet feeders? All the links I find have been taken down.

That's because AmmoMike took them down. Is there a reason you want his files rather than the larger later files put out by TylerR? Tyler's files are a bit more versatile being a larger collator, and yet still small enough to print on an Ender 3.

[Huntinherrington]

That's because AmmoMike took them down. Is there a reason you want his files rather than the larger later files put out by TylerR? Tyler's files are a bit more versatile being a larger collator, and yet still small enough to print on an Ender 3.

What I meant was basically any files, I just mentioned AmmoMike for a reference of what I was wanting.

Printing on Prusa i3 MK3S+

[Mbeavers1]

Hi guys, completely new to this thread and looking for some help. I bought one of Karl Bibbs's last case feeders that are based on Ammomikes design. I stumbled on this thread looking for upgraded parts. His feeder works great except the plates jam and simply strip out the center hex nut. Your clutched design should solve this but Im not sure if they will fit his feeder. His plates are roughly 6.75" OD. Has anyone done this retrofit?

[GWS]

I'll try to answer you both at once.

First go to a TylerR post. At the bottom is a link that says, "downloads". All the files for collators, APP ect. are there. There is a green button that says "code". Pushing that will download the whole thing on your computer. Or you can download a file at a time.


There is a "Manual" near the bottom of the file list. Go through the manual with a fine tooth comb. Then once satisfied you can move on. Under plates, there is a plate generator file where you can customize your own plate. Including the clutch, diameter, hole size and number.....etc.

I'll be out of pocket until tonight, but TylerR may add to what I've given you as busy as he is, he still checks in often.

[Mbeavers1]

Thanks! Nice that the plates can be customized! Will give it a shot!

[Huntinherrington]

I'll try to answer you both at once.

First go to a TylerR post. At the bottom is a link that says, "downloads". All the files for collators, APP ect. are there. There is a green button that says "code". Pushing that will download the whole thing on your computer. Or you can download a file at a time.


There is a "Manual" near the bottom of the file list. Go through the manual with a fine tooth comb. Then once satisfied you can move on. Under plates, there is a plate generator file where you can customize your own plate. Including the clutch, diameter, hole size and number.....etc.

I'll be out of pocket until tonight, but TylerR may add to what I've given you as busy as he is, he still checks in often.

Thank you! I actually read his post on page 99 saying it was in his sig! I kept trying to open all the ones he posted before then but they weren’t there! It was actually Tyler’s feeder not ammomikes that I was trying to access.

I haven’t printed anything yet. First timer here. I’m going to go back to page 200 and keep reading so I don’t ask repeat questions.

With the contributions made in this thread to develop these awesome feeders, I’ll offer whatever support I can to help. Even if it’s just printing new files to test so you guys don't have to go through so much filament, even though I kinda late to the party and most of the development has been completed.I really appreciate all they willingness to help someone else and the countless hours it all took.

@TylerR what filament do you like and what is your PayPal? I’ll sent you some funds. I really appreciate all the dedication that it took to help us all be able to come on here and just print your designs!

PM me who else helped you with the design if you can. I’ll reach out to them also to offer a donation

[TylerR]

Thank you! I actually read his post on page 99 saying it was in his sig! I kept trying to open all the ones he posted before then but they weren’t there! It was actually Tyler’s feeder not ammomikes that I was trying to access.

I haven’t printed anything yet. First timer here. I’m going to go back to page 200 and keep reading so I don’t ask repeat questions.

With the contributions made in this thread to develop these awesome feeders, I’ll offer whatever support I can to help. Even if it’s just printing new files to test so you guys don't have to go through so much filament, even though I kinda late to the party and most of the development has been completed.I really appreciate all they willingness to help someone else and the countless hours it all took.

@TylerR what filament do you like and what is your PayPal? I’ll sent you some funds. I really appreciate all the dedication that it took to help us all be able to come on here and just print your designs!

PM me who else helped you with the design if you can. I’ll reach out to them also to offer a donation

Definitely a good idea to read the thread. There is a wealth of ideas and information you won't be able to get any other way.
I use overture pla+ almost exclusively. Never had an issue with it. writeus2day@yahoo.com

[M500]

Hey, TylerR, I was reading the following couple of posts about plates for 357mag and 45Colt.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5270030&viewfull=1#post5270030

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5332959&viewfull=1#post5332959

Are you still liking to feed rimmed pistol brass lying down? No hurry on this. I know you're busy. Sending files by PM. Thanks

[TylerR]

Hey, TylerR, I was reading the following couple of posts about plates for 357mag and 45Colt.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5270030&viewfull=1#post5270030

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5332959&viewfull=1#post5332959

Are you still liking to feed rimmed pistol brass lying down? No hurry on this. I know you're busy. Sending files by PM. Thanks

Honestly it works pretty well both ways unless something like 45/70 that is very long.
For .357/44mag I would probably just use a standard collator plate and maybe make it slightly taller. GWS has posted videos of those in action.

[GWS]

Yes, but they are going hyper speed (just testing before I had a speed control for that collator.) But if they work that fast they work even better at a normal speed....

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5369971&viewfull=1#post5369971

I'm a lazy soul......whenever I can, I consolidate and use a plate for more than one size. So far it works fine for 9mm, .40, .45acp, .357mag. and I even tried it with .223 rem. just to see if it would work in a pinch. But I probably prefer my lay down plate made especially for .223.....a little more efficient for that tall.

I made another plate for the APP to use with my tiny AmmoMike collator....using the same size holes and plate height....for .357. As you can see it works well. (holes look bigger because the plate is smaller)

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5412883&viewfull=1#post5412883

TylerR suggested making one taller for .357. Certainly can't hurt to stabilize them more, but I wouldn't continue to use it for short cases, or you may have two trying to drop at once. 9mm almost does that as it is.....

[Huntinherrington]

Just read the entire thread. Last week I tried to get a Karl Bibb feeder but he has shutdown his printing so I bought 6 of his bullet droppers that he had in stock.. After finding one on Ebay made overseas, I was going to buy it but some of the bullet plates aren’t efficient and I can hand place them faster. Then I discovered this thread.

I didn’t realize that capable 3d printers were this cheap in price. I ordered a Prusa i3 MK3S+ this week so I will be using it non stop for awhile. I will be doing 4 bullet feeders and 3 case feeders as soon as I get some prints under my belt.

Just put a deposit on a Prusa XL.
I want a couple Mongo feeders!

[GWS]

Just read the entire thread. Last week I tried to get a Karl Bibb feeder but he has shutdown his printing so I bought 6 of his bullet droppers that he had in stock.. After finding one on Ebay made overseas, I was going to buy it but some of the bullet plates aren’t efficient and I can hand place them faster. Then I discovered this thread.

I didn’t realize that capable 3d printers were this cheap in price. I ordered a Prusa i3 MK3S+ this week so I will be using it non stop for awhile. I will be doing 4 bullet feeders and 3 case feeders as soon as I get some prints under my belt.

Just put a deposit on a Prusa XL.
I want a couple Mongo feeders!

Wow! That XL is way too rich for me! Four times what my Creality CR10v2 cost me ($500 new) Yes mine only prints 300x300, so no Mongo for me, but the 300 printed just fine, which is just right for me. Tyler bought the Ender model that prints 350x350mm....a bit more expensive, but not $2000. The Prusa must be way advanced to make it worth that. Happy you can afford it. Should be fun.

Picture below shows the 300 on the left, and the standard sized one on the right. I use the standard size for all bullets and pistol cases, the 300 for rifle cases.
https://i.postimg.cc/Hn12w0QX/IMG-4005.jpg

[Huntinherrington]

So that’s the 300 on the left and the 30% larger than AM version on the right?

Maybe I should have gotten the Ender 5+…

[M500]

Honestly it works pretty well both ways unless something like 45/70 that is very long.
For .357/44mag I would probably just use a standard collator plate and maybe make it slightly taller. GWS has posted videos of those in action.

Thank you TylerR. That is definitely the simpler solution. On another note, has anybody developed a schematic for 2 proximity sensors on a single collator? Been thinking about it some, might have a solution.

[M500]

Yes, but they are going hyper speed (just testing before I had a speed control for that collator.) But if they work that fast they work even better at a normal speed....

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5369971&viewfull=1#post5369971

I'm a lazy soul......whenever I can, I consolidate and use a plate for more than one size. So far it works fine for 9mm, .40, .45acp, .357mag. and I even tried it with .223 rem. just to see if it would work in a pinch. But I probably prefer my lay down plate made especially for .223.....a little more efficient for that tall.

I made another plate for the APP to use with my tiny AmmoMike collator....using the same size holes and plate height....for .357. As you can see it works well. (holes look bigger because the plate is smaller)

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5412883&viewfull=1#post5412883

TylerR suggested making one taller for .357. Certainly can't hurt to stabilize them more, but I wouldn't continue to use it for short cases, or you may have two trying to drop at once. 9mm almost does that as it is.....

Thank you GWS. I remember seeing that video and looked for it, but didn't find it. So much to look through. Do you remember the thickness of that plate? I don't mind printing a new plate if I think I need to. I've already printed 2 plates for hornet brass and will probably print 1 more final variation. A mongo may not be the best platform for plate development.

[GWS]

No.....300 on the left alright, but Tyler's 'standard' sized one on the right....considerably larger than the AM version.

These are all TylerR plates...big is the 300....two small ones are his first size he calls "standard".

https://i.postimg.cc/RVsb7SNh/IMG-3997.jpg9
Of Tyler's originals the red is .223 and the green is .308. You can see why I reprinted them the bigger size.

I think TylerR has a picture of AM's compared to his, but I don't.

Okay, I just took another picture:

https://i.postimg.cc/3NSmZFPy/IMG-4087.jpg
300 is at far left....TylerR's standard in the middle...and AmmoMike's model on the right.

M500: thickness of the plate is 8mm. But it's not a special plate on Tyler's original "Standard" size....it is his "Large Pistol Brass" plate...period. Slider in front is wide open. That pictured A.M. plate is a special plate on A.M.'s base. I don't think he made one like Tyler's that I know about....his was just bullet plates, I think?

I never saw a need for two proximity switches, so not me.....you may be the first, unless TylerR has played with it.

BTW, the green "standard diameter" rifle bullet plate above has a lot of risers....twice the need....but that was my first one. Live and learn. It works fine but it prints way longer than I would prefer. That's an example of a custom one though, and an example of over doing it. TylerR's "small rifle bullet plate" is what I would print now.

The front slider and funnel under the AM plate (red), is what I created to drop all pistol cases, similar hole to a wide open TylerR pistol case slider.

[TylerR]

I think TylerR has a picture of AM's compared to his, but I don't.


I did post a pic a long time ago. no idea how to find it.

This is a size comparison:

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/1012933311032725555/unknown.png

[Huntinherrington]

No.....300 on the left alright, but Tyler's 'standard' sized one on the right....considerably larger than the AM version.

That’s what I ways saying. 300 on the left and then the 30% larger than then the original AM (which is Tyler’s standard).

I somehow missed the 300 until the last couple of pages.

I might buy an Ender 5+ now.

[Huntinherrington]

I did post a pic a long time ago. no idea how to find it.

This is a size comparison:

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/1012933311032725555/unknown.png

Thank you for the comparison. The 300 is what I need but I bought a Prusa MK3s+ Before I realized you had a “300” model!

[GWS]

That’s what I ways saying. 300 on the left and then the 30% larger than then the original AM (which is Tyler’s standard).

I somehow missed the 300 until the last couple of pages.

I might buy an Ender 5+ now.

If you do buy an Ender 5+ (Tyler's latest one too) get him to give you pointers on set up and bed leveling. Especially get the polypropylene bed he has and recommends, and escape all the hassle of prints lifting. All my bed problems disappeared when I got one. It's got to be the worlds best material for 3D printer beds.....sooooo easy to use and trouble-free. I use TH3D's automatic bed leveling system.....don't know what he uses.....maybe that model comes with one already. Probably does. Pretty sure Prusa's expensive one does.

[M500]

Thanks guys. Couple of thank you pictures.

303577

303578

[GWS]

........ A mongo may not be the best platform for plate development.

Based on the amount of media used and the printing time expended.....I see your point.;)

Commenting on your picture........do those motors use the same mounting holes as the Dayton's? What's your source and $ expended? The prints look great! Which printer? I forget.

[M500]

Based on the amount of media used and the printing time expended.....I see your point.;)

Commenting on your picture........do those motors use the same mounting holes as the Dayton's? What's your source and $ expended? The prints look great! Which printer? I forget.

Don't remember where I found it, but when I was looking for motors I found a cross reference to these numbers. Bought them of ebay for around $50 each or thereabouts. Printer is Tronxy X5SA-400. I reflashed it to Marlin for the additional thermal protection. Got a polypropylene bed which required an upgrade from the blue sensor to the black sensor.

[GWS]

Well I just now found a more reasonable source for your Molon brand motor, than the typical $70. And they do seem to have the same mounts at the Daytons.

At Zoro:

https://www.zoro.com/molon-dc-gearmotor-12-rpm-12v-vented-chm-1212-1m/i/G100461364/

Maybe that's where you found them.

Then I went to Ebay and found one for $35.00! https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=chm-1212-1m&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=+Mfr+%23%3A+CHM-1212-1M&_osacat=0

Somebody ought to jump on that one.:)

[M500]

Shows what kind of markup Dayton has on their products. Probably all made in the same Chinese facility anyway.

[M500]

Well I just now found a more reasonable source for your Molon brand motor, than the typical $70. And they do seem to have the same mounts at the Daytons.

I question whether the best buy in motors may be the 60ga775 like 45acp is running.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5379929&viewfull=1#post5379929

$35 on the Aliexpess slow boat or $45 from ebay with speedpak. If I print a 300mm I would probably try that one.

[TylerR]

I question whether the best buy in motors may be the 60ga775 like 45acp is running.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5379929&viewfull=1#post5379929

$35 on the Aliexpess slow boat or $45 from ebay with speedpak. If I print a 300mm I would probably try that one.

Why not this one, which is supported?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YBXMTWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[M500]

Why not this one, which is supported?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YBXMTWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am aware of that motor. Seen it in the manual and seen where you have recommended it. No justifiable reason to dislike it. Just not a fan of worm gears.

[GWS]

So is there something wrong with worm gears? Not something I know anything about.....please enlighten us....

[M500]

Worm gears have more friction and galling than a regular gear on gear configuration. Shorter service life. Tendency to fling the grease away from the companion gear rather than on it. As it pertains to a case collator, it probably won't matter. I just try to avoid them when I can.

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[GWS]

Interesting. I will say this on the matter: Compared to commercial bullet and case feeders.....these printed ones are so cheap to make, cheaper still to add calibers to, that paying $70 for a good motor is well.....miniscule......and the quality of the finished product just as good or better, especially clutched ones.

I have four feeders, many caliber changes, a 3D printer, to make more, all for the price of one commercial feeder, with 2 caliber kits. No need to quibble over $30. And yet, I would doubt the light use of these motors would see worm drive ones fail very often if ever......cheap speed controls....yes. So don't cheap out on those. (done that)

[M500]

I definitely agree. My interest in the 775 motor is more of an itch to try one more so than anything. I don't have a need for another collator at the moment, but if I get a summit press, that would change.

I'm a little surprised TylerR didn't include both 634 and dayton mounting holes on the same body. Looks like it would fit fine.

[GWS]

I definitely agree. My interest in the 775 motor is more of an itch to try one more so than anything. I don't have a need for another collator at the moment, but if I get a summit press, that would change.

I'm a little surprised TylerR didn't include both 634 and dayton mounting holes on the same body. Looks like it would fit fine.

Summit press? If you do that you may want this zip file.....;)

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/single-station-presses-with-case-feeders-lee-app-was-first-but-wont-be-the-last.909232/#post-12380782

[M500]

Summit press? If you do that you may want this zip file.....;)

Thank you. That in fact is the only reason I'm interested in a summit. Otherwise it's just another single stage press.

[GWS]

Thank you. That in fact is the only reason I'm interested in a summit. Otherwise it's just another single stage press.

For me is was a curiousity at first. I did like the open face, yet the beef in the frame and shaft promised no flex as in other open faced presses and even most turrets. It doesn't quite measure up to the R.Chucker for leverage, but close....and the concentricity in sizing and seating was super. Then I saw the APP videos and knew what I had to eventually do. It doesn't do the down-under tricks of the Lee APP, but the top side, is mostly what I use on the APP anyway. (If I ever need to use the down-under stuff.....I have the APP)

https://inlinefabrication.com/collections/quick-change-press-mounting-system/products/flush-mount-quick-change-system-base-plate with the #26 top plate is essential.....one hole has to be drilled in the top plate.

[Huntinherrington]

My Prusa came in yesterday evening. She’s on her 5th print now! My collator motor came in yesterday too!

[TylerR]

My Prusa came in yesterday evening. She’s on her 5th print now! My collator motor came in yesterday too!

Sounds like you are well on your way!

[Huntinherrington]

Well I just now found a more reasonable source for your Molon brand motor, than the typical $70. And they do seem to have the same mounts at the Daytons.

At Zoro:

https://www.zoro.com/molon-dc-gearmotor-12-rpm-12v-vented-chm-1212-1m/i/G100461364/

Maybe that's where you found them.

Then I went to Ebay and found one for $35.00! https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=chm-1212-1m&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=+Mfr+%23%3A+CHM-1212-1M&_osacat=0

Somebody ought to jump on that one.:)


Which collator body does this mount to?
As soon as I can find the charger to this laptop I’m gunna try to slice and print it!!

[M500]

Which collator body does this mount to?
As soon as I can find the charger to this laptop I’m gunna try to slice and print it!!

It is the ETZGMP38 body.

[Huntinherrington]

It is the ETZGMP38 body.

Thank You! Guess I have to head to town to get a new charging cord!!

Then I’m gunna start on the bullet feeder!

[M500]

Which size are you printing?

[Huntinherrington]

I can only do the standard. Printer is not big enough to do the others. I want to do the 300 though

[M500]

The standard body has a proven record of working great for many members. Will do anything you need. I also think the 300 would be great. Will likely print one as well someday.

[Huntinherrington]

I may pick up an Ender 5+ soon but I have a deposit on the Prusa XL

[Huntinherrington]

Here we go!!

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[Arcrunner]

Wowsers, what part is that? The longest part for me was the body at like 14 hours at 0.3mm layer height

[Huntinherrington]

Wowsers, what part is that? The longest part for me was the body at like 14 hours at 0.3mm layer height

Main body

What was your infill?

[Arcrunner]

Main body

What was your infill?

20% and 4 walls in PETG.

even if I crank it to 50% infill, it's still around 19 hours. I'm still using cubic infill though, gyroid is cool but takes way longer. I'm just stuck in my ways from when I got my mk2s.

[Huntinherrington]

Current progress.

I’m going to research the different infills today. I’d love to cut the time down as long as it’s still quality and strong.

What infill patterns are you guys using and what is the print time for the body? How do you like it? Any concerns of its strength or how it will hold up?

I’m printing 4 feeders so saving time would be awesome!

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[Huntinherrington]

20% and 4 walls in PETG.

even if I crank it to 50% infill, it's still around 19 hours. I'm still using cubic infill though, gyroid is cool but takes way longer. I'm just stuck in my ways from when I got my mk2s.


Even when i do .3 layers and cubic infill its still 31 hrs.
I'm using 30% infill and 4 walls.

Maybe my speed is to slow??

[M500]

When you print your plates use minimum infill if you are using Cura. First 2 layers above infill will be solid. Then it will start building the ridges on top. No annoying holes on the ends of the ridges.

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[Huntinherrington]

I'm using Prusa Slicer. This is my first time ever printing anything. Still learning what everything means/does in the slicer.

[M500]

Not familiar with Prusa's slicer. Does it allow you to preview? If so, explore the options and see what changes it makes.

[Huntinherrington]

Here are my speed settings.
Perimeters 25
Infill 50

[Huntinherrington]

Current progress

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[M500]

The option I was referring to should be in the infill settings, not the speed settings. At least that's how Cura is anyway. Your speed settings look normal I think. Your top solid infill is probably the same as Cura's top skin setting. Don't think mine is quite that fast.

Main bodies do take some time to print. My mongo body took 92 hours. Made sure the weather forecast was clear before starting that one.

[Huntinherrington]

Yeah, I just wanted to post my speeds incase they were off.

Here is my infill page.
Not sure why its sideways?

[Huntinherrington]

Main bodies do take some time to print. My mongo body took 92 hours. Made sure the weather forecast was clear before starting that one.

Based on what I have seen from others, My time is somewhat normal but when I was asked why it was such a long time because theirs was 14 hrs....

[Arcrunner]

A mk3 can handle much higher speeds. Those aren't the stock settings because the undo button is showing that they've been changed.

Perimeters and external perimeters can be set to at least 60, the volumetric settings will limit the speed. Infill can go 200mm/s. Even on the . 20 SPEED settings, I always go and adjust the slower perimeter settings to 70.

[Huntinherrington]

A mk3 can handle much higher speeds. Those aren't the stock settings because the undo button is showing that they've been changed.

Perimeters and external perimeters can be set to at least 60, the volumetric settings will limit the speed. Infill can go 200mm/s. Even on the . 20 SPEED settings, I always go and adjust the slower perimeter settings to 70.

I changed them to what the user manual for this collator stated.
I will speed everything up on the next one. Maybe even change to .3 layer height.

I noticed that the user manual settings were a bit slower than the factory .20 quality default setting but didn't want to mess anything up.

This is my first print other than the test prints and I did print the ramp just to test the settings.

[Arcrunner]

I changed them to what the user manual for this collator stated.
I will speed everything up on the next one. Maybe even change to .3 layer height.

I noticed that the user manual settings were a bit slower than the factory .20 quality default setting but didn't want to mess anything up.

This is my first print other than the test prints and I did print the ramp just to test the settings.

That's fair. The stock settings in prusa slicer are dialed in exactly for that printer though, so in that regard, it's easy to trust them.

[Huntinherrington]

That's fair. The stock settings in prusa slicer are dialed in exactly for that printer though, so in that regard, it's easy to trust them.


Thank you for your input!! I really do appreciate it!! I would be pulling it off the printer now if I would have known that lol

[Arcrunner]

You might find it easier when you print your second body! If you do go to .3 layer height, then I recommend printing the slide plate at the same layer height or smaller, and it will fit no issues into the body.

[Huntinherrington]

AM Progress Report!!

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[Huntinherrington]

On the home stretch!!

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[GWS]

Yeah, I just wanted to post my speeds incase they were off.

Here is my infill page.
Not sure why its sideways?

I see that a lot on this forum, but it never happens to me. Interesting.

I downloaded your picture, turned it right side up, added it to my Postimage account, then tried reposting....using the following line:
https://i.postimg.cc/pXLxGJzq/Screenshot-2022-09-05-213810.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Gp7vDQFV/xxx.jpg

I don't even know what they mean by "infill anchor"????

As for infill percentage though, I always use 18 percent infill, and I've been plenty happy with mine.

https://i.postimg.cc/VvKD4KVm/IMG-3665.jpg

I've never trying printing layers more than .2. I do print .12 layers for small parts, especially bullet feed dies.....they seem to work better than .2 with those ball bearings.

Your base print looks great from here! It took how many hours?

[Huntinherrington]

I see that a lot on this forum, but it never happens to me. Interesting.

I downloaded your picture, turned it right side up, then tried reposting....

https://i.postimg.cc/Gp7vDQFV/xxx.jpg

I don't even know what they mean by "infill anchor"????

As for infill percentage, I always use 18 percent infill, and I've been plenty happy with mine.

https://i.postimg.cc/VvKD4KVm/IMG-3665.jpg

I've never trying printing layers more than .2. I do print .12 layers for small parts, especially bullet feed dies.....they seem to work better than .2 with those ball bearings.

Your base print looks great from here! It took how many hours?

It turned out amazing!

I’m going to lower the infill to 20% and use the factory default .2mm speed settings.

I have the small pistol plate on right now with that setting to see how it does. Using 10% infill on the collator plate

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[Huntinherrington]

Small pistol plate is complete. Quality is lacking on bottom layers. Its like it is to high but my first layer calibration looks perfect.

I started a rifle plate.
Now it is alternating the remaining time and some other timer on the screen.
What is the other timer?
It has a C instead of an R after the time.

EDIT: Lowered Nozzle down another -.100 and its perfect so far. Still on the first layer though.

Still trying to google what this timer is with a C. I hope it doesn't shut my print down mid print!

[GWS]

Small pistol plate is complete. Quality is lacking on bottom layers. Its like it is to high but my first layer calibration looks perfect.

I started a rifle plate.
Now it is alternating the remaining time and some other timer on the screen.
What is the other timer?
It has a C instead of an R after the time.

EDIT: Lowered Nozzle down another -.100 and its perfect so far. Still on the first layer though.

Still trying to google what this timer is with a C. I hope it doesn't shut my print down mid print!

The timer thing may be a Prusa thing....never seen two. The only timer I see in "IdeaMaker"on Creality is elapsed time....and percentage complete. Maybe that's another form of the same thing?

Maybe the 10 percent infill is a bit low, and caused quality problems. The lower infill may cause spaces too large that the filament has to bridge, causing the problems.....but you are saying bottom layers???? The bottom layers are usually 0% infill!....solid! So why quality problems there?

You lowered the nozzle down another -.100? If you mean baby stepping during the first layer, down .100, that's a normal for me....I lower and while looking with good light and magnifier drop the nozzle until the layer is a bit flat on top, more or less as required. That squeeze is what allows the layer to fill-in smooth between.

I try to "babystep" during the brim lay down, but on small prints you can't see under the nozzle well enough so I repeat the last babystep on the previous print.....if it's .1 down so be it. Usually works fine that way.......but keep in mind that filament brands are different. Some require more and some less.

But a too high nozzle off the bed, can ruin the whole print...won't be smooth, may not adhere. Too low....ditto, the filament has no room to lay down a good layer....and the nozzle can clog. (done it all :)) Perfect is a little flat on top.

[Huntinherrington]

The main body printed wonderfully but I was printing at alot slower speed. Once I sped it up I started having the bottom layer issue. The nozzle was to high. I slowly stepped it down during the print until it looked good.

Just a lesson for a new user that things change with different speeds. What looks perfect with slow speeds can show errors when bumping the speed up!

It was a good learning experience.

As far as the timer is concerned, both timers are counting down.
It has a separate percentage completed on the display as well.
I cancelled the previous print after I adjust the nozzle height to start a new print with it dialed in.

Maybe it's some sort of timer for the remaining time that that print had? I have no idea.

[Huntinherrington]

Well, It's for color change.... I unknowingly added several different colors in the slicer!!

[GWS]

Glad you figured that mystery out. I don't feel the need for more than one color for what I print thank goodness! Now my "IdeaMaker" software does "textures".....I'm totally ignoring that, too.

However RedlegEd sent me a copy of his two-color clutch cap with cannons!......neater than hell!.....but still not enough to influence this old dog to learn how to do that. Here's a picture of it......so you may be inspired since yours does that.

https://i.postimg.cc/xCTxqCyt/IMG_3855.jpg

(the files are probably in TylerR's downloads under "contributions", RedlegEd.)

Don't print that small rifle plate tho....it was custom using the plate maker and I put WAY too many risers. Tyler's rendition probably feeds faster even with fewer holes. (pictured below)

https://i.postimg.cc/xC4rcyrj/Tyler-R-Small-Rifle-Bullets.jpg

[Huntinherrington]

I printed the body, small pistol & Large Rifle plates.

304177

I also printed all the bullet nose up plates, flipper, sweepers, & angled adapter.

I just have the wall extension, the rest of the collator plates, and Dillon hang mounts left.

Unfortunately I am out of town for 2 weeks.

[GWS]

See folks? A beginner does just fine with a 3d printer......it's only a little scary at first, quickly becoming easy peasy. Looks great Huntinherrington! The hardest part is making the leap and buying one.

[Huntinherrington]

See folks? A beginner does just fine with a 3d printer......it's only a little scary at first, quickly becoming easy peasy. Looks great Huntinherrington! The hardest part is making the leap and buying one.

When he says beginner, He means beginner. I had never even seen a 3d printer in my life and never even researched them until 2 weeks ago and ordered one a week later…

I literally knew NOTHING about a 3d printer 3 weeks ago!!

[Arcrunner]

it being a prusa helps a lot in this case. Ive had mk2s and the mk3+, even launch day enders (I have 4) and other printers, but the assembled prusas and their slicer (which has creality defaults too), really make it an easy experience for new printers.

[GWS]

it being a prusa helps a lot in this case. Ive had mk2s and the mk3+, even launch day enders (I have 4) and other printers, but the assembled prusas and their slicer (which has creality defaults too), really make it an easy experience for new printers.

I don't doubt that. But when I bought my Creality CR10v2, I was just as raw as him. The first print was some little thing, and I quickly learned I did NOT like bed leveling.....think it was Redleg Ed who told me about automatic bed leveling and steered me to TH3D. https://www.th3dstudio.com/product-category/general-upgrades/auto-bed-leveling/ His expensive Prusa most likely already has one. The first day after installing that I printed This: (grandson's birthday present) TH3D autoleveler is the blue and black thing hanging on the right of the nozzle assembly.....no moving parts....just a specialized proximty sensor run by software provided. No probe to worry about breaking, by a errant unintentional nozzle lowering command.

https://i.postimg.cc/V6RwPWrY/IMG-3505.jpg

And never looked back. Was there bad days.....yeah.....different brands of filament have different settings, and then you have lifting problems, babystepping problems.....it's called learning a new hobby. But the best thing I did was get TylerR's recommended bed, Polypropylene. No more lifting problems as long as I keep bed temp at 65 and nozzle temp at 215 for the PLA I like to use.

[Arcrunner]

I think when I got my mk2s, it was the only printer under $1000 that had mesh bed levelling. The kit was $599, but I will never do that again, the MK2s used threaded rods instead of aluminum extrusion, I think the first kit took 6 or 7 hours to assemble, because it's in every sense of the word a kit. I think 3 months in the wiring on the heat bed wore out and they express DHL sent a new one. Support for the first year is really reassuring for a beginner too.

the downside is that when you pick up a second printer like an ender 3, then you have to learn the nuances of bed levelling. The ender 3's were much easier to install hemeras though, love that hot end. Lots of cool stuff in the first years like the SKR boards coming out, that was a big deal at the time for the price.


At work we just got an intamsys Funmat to print PEEK, the chamber is hot enough that they give you welding gloves to take out the build plates!

[Huntinherrington]

Anyone used Overture PETG?
How did you like it?

[wbbh]

Anyone used Overture PETG?
How did you like it?

I have a spool of their clear, I never got it to run well at all. I have used Sunlu PLA & PLA+ with my Ender 5

[sierra1911]

Anyone used Overture PETG?
How did you like it?

I've had excellent results with Overture PETG on my MK3S+ running it at the default settings in the Prusa slicer for their Prusament PETG. I've only used Overture's Digital Blue and Space Gray.

I did purchase the kit and it took 8 hours to assemble, but in doing so, I hopefully learned enough to make maintenance/repair tasks easier.

[Huntinherrington]

Thanks you the feedback!
I’m ordering the black, digital blue and orange to try.

[cheese1566]

Is there a "fence" or rail I can add to the slide plate to keep the occasional bullet from falling over and jamming the drop hole?

I am running nose down with MP 358-125's, and they have a pretty wide flat nose.
I have settled on slideplate #6, after trying various configurations with #4 + #5. I get an occasional upwards bullet tipping over and jamming square in the drop hole.

My 124gr round nose FMJ ran great when I initially tested my unit.

[GWS]

Tyler's going to suggest you post a video......otherwise it's really hard to tell what you have going on. Assuming you are sizing boolits? Not something I ever do, but I think he does.

[cheese1566]

Tyler's going to suggest you post a video......otherwise it's really hard to tell what you have going on. Assuming you are sizing boolits? Not something I ever do, but I think he does.
Will do. It's going to be dedicated to one of my Star sizers for 9mm.

I've tried three slide plates, with in/out-and various tilting of the body, and speed rotation combinations. Just doesn't like that profile and wide meplate.
I have an idea to make one from flat spring from an old windshield wiper blade. Pretty sure one here could whip up a cad drawing and print it.

[Arcrunner]

have you tried installing the optional screw in the back of the slide plate to push out the plate further? sounds like you might be in between plate 6 and 5?

[cheese1566]

have you tried installing the optional screw in the back of the slide plate to push out the plate further? sounds like you might be in between plate 6 and 5?

Yep.

[cheese1566]

I added a piece of spring steel to act as a rail for the tipping bullets. Bent the flat steel to shape, drilled an undersized hole. Heated the steel with a lighter and slid into the hole and let it cool.
Tilting the body back to prevent tipping caused other issues like the bullets not want to slide downward.

I’m sure someone with mad design skills could whip up a functioning piece to print to slip over the slide plate nub where I mounted the spring. 304373304375304374

[ranger391xt]

I have a spool of their clear, I never got it to run well at all. I have used Sunlu PLA & PLA+ with my Ender 5I've used the Overture clear and once I figured out some of nuances related to trying to print something clear it worked pretty well.

I just spent days fighting witha roll of Sunlu PETG (black). Printing at recommended temps I had lots of strings and wisps and the surface looked rough. To get a nice looking print I had to drop the temp down to 205 (which is the same temp I use for PLA), but then fought with adhesion issues and nozzle clogging. I finally got the thing I was trying to print (cooling fan duct) to complete, but also bought a roll of Overture PETG in black to tryout. I almost wonder if this roll of Sunlu stuff was mis-labeled. Their PLA has worked well for me, which is why I tried their PETG.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[wbbh]

I've used the Overture clear and once I figured out some of nuances related to trying to print something clear it worked pretty well.

I just spent days fighting witha roll of Sunlu PETG (black). Printing at recommended temps I had lots of strings and wisps and the surface looked rough. To get a nice looking print I had to drop the temp down to 205 (which is the same temp I use for PLA), but then fought with adhesion issues and nozzle clogging. I finally got the thing I was trying to print (cooling fan duct) to complete, but also bought a roll of Overture PETG in black to tryout. I almost wonder if this roll of Sunlu stuff was mis-labeled. Their PLA has worked well for me, which is why I tried their PETG.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'll give it one more try with lower temperatures.

[r4ndy]

I had awful results with TecBears PETG lifting and stringing and switched to Overture PETG and it worked much better, still never got it dialed in and just went with Overture PLA+. Was making AR speedloaders and found the PLA+ worked fine in the summer heat and didn’t warp sitting in a gun bag in the trunk or on the range in 90+ heat, so no reason to jack around with PETG when the PLA+ prints like a dream.

[Huntinherrington]

I jumped in head first and bought like 12 rolls of Overture PETG. Hopefully it works good!! I use their PLA+ Now with great results but wanted the extra heat withstanding of PETG.

[bigmike111]

Hey Guys, I wanted to see if you guys could help me out. Maybe it's too late or something but I am looking to connect a spring from my Dillon case feeder to the Lee APP and one from the case feeder to the case feed adapter on the 650. I see Tanders Case feed adapters but I wanted to see if there was something else that also works with the factory adapters that I already have.

Also, thanks to everyone who has put in work on this project. I haven't been reloading or on here for a while but this project has advanced exponentially since I started following it in 2019/2020.

[GWS]

The only Dillon product I own is a bottle of brass polish for a tumbler.....so I can't help. Maybe Tyler can help if he understands what you are asking. I didn't think Dillon even used a spring tube on the case feeder....or are you talking about some other spring?

You might do some measuring and give some information.....I.S. diameter, O.S. diameter of the spring tube.....then Tyler can tell you what adapters he has that might fit. More information the better....what calibers are you trying to feed.....

[TylerR]

Hey Guys, I wanted to see if you guys could help me out. Maybe it's too late or something but I am looking to connect a spring from my Dillon case feeder to the Lee APP and one from the case feeder to the case feed adapter on the 650. I see Tanders Case feed adapters but I wanted to see if there was something else that also works with the factory adapters that I already have.

Also, thanks to everyone who has put in work on this project. I haven't been reloading or on here for a while but this project has advanced exponentially since I started following it in 2019/2020.

For the Dillon try these:
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Dillon_Drop_Hole_Spring_Adapter.stl
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Dillon_Spring_Adapter.stl
Then just select the correct spring adapters

For the APP I would need a bit more info on what you are trying to do. Are you using my APP quick change system?

[bigmike111]

For the Dillon try these:
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Dillon_Drop_Hole_Spring_Adapter.stl
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Dillon_Spring_Adapter.stl
Then just select the correct spring adapters

For the APP I would need a bit more info on what you are trying to do. Are you using my APP quick change system?

Thanks, Im assuming one tube is for the casefeeder and the other is for the case adapter on the press and it just uses the regular spring connectors?

For the APP I am trying to run a spring, like the one on the bullet feeder, to collate cases and feed into the APP for processing brass. I saw a picture in the images folder that looks like it is what I am looking for except it appears to be for boolits, at this time just trying to feed cases from the Dillon case feeder.

Thanks again for your help.

[TylerR]

Thanks, Im assuming one tube is for the casefeeder and the other is for the case adapter on the press and it just uses the regular spring connectors?

For the APP I am trying to run a spring, like the one on the bullet feeder, to collate cases and feed into the APP for processing brass. I saw a picture in the images folder that looks like it is what I am looking for except it appears to be for boolits, at this time just trying to feed cases from the Dillon case feeder.

Thanks again for your help.

It is simple if you use my app quick change system. And this adapter to connect to it. (note there are three sizes)

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/8.%20APP/APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Large.stl

[bigmike111]

It is simple if you use my app quick change system. And this adapter to connect to it. (note there are three sizes)

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/8.%20APP/APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Large.stl

Right now I am just planning on using the APP for processing 223 brass using the Dillon casefeeder and a spring. I saw your quick change setup video and will have to look more into that later since I couldn't find a lot of info on it or everything that is needed for it.

Right now it appears that I need the following:

A -> G -> to spring -> H -> "APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium"
304877
304878

After the "APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium" does that go onto a tube or onto the press directly or is another adapter needed?

Or is the quick change easier on all accounts?

[Sgt Beer Belly]

Tyler

Is there anyway someone could build a 5 degree curve to the drop tubes,
I am using the bullet feeder on a Lee Loadmaster with the drop tubes that have the led sensors, but hit the powder fill.

304901

[TylerR]

Tyler

Is there anyway someone could build a 5 degree curve to the drop tubes,
I am using the bullet feeder on a Lee Loadmaster with the drop tubes that have the led sensors, but hit the powder fill.

304901

Try one of the APP offsets. That is what I use on the 750.

[Sgt Beer Belly]

Try one of the APP offsets. That is what I use on the 750.

Perfect

I Went through the whole zip folder not sure why I didn't see the offsets

Thanks

[TylerR]

Perfect

I Went through the whole zip folder not sure why I didn't see the offsets

Thanks

You will also need this part to interface with the bullet feeder.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter.stl

[TylerR]

Right now I am just planning on using the APP for processing 223 brass using the Dillon casefeeder and a spring. I saw your quick change setup video and will have to look more into that later since I couldn't find a lot of info on it or everything that is needed for it.

Right now it appears that I need the following:

A -> G -> to spring -> H -> "APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium"
304877
304878

After the "APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium" does that go onto a tube or onto the press directly or is another adapter needed?

Or is the quick change easier on all accounts?

APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium mounts directly to the APP quick change inserts. It is the cleanest setup you can do

Or is the quick change easier on all accounts? Yes

[GWS]

APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium mounts directly to the APP quick change inserts. It is the cleanest setup you can do

Or is the quick change easier on all accounts? Yes

I can certainly vouch for that.....I would not have been so successful with my Summit Press APP'izing experiment without the quick change.......in fact I probably wouldn't have made the attempt had I not been so happy with the Lee APP quickchanged. You'll save yourself a lot of time and make caliber changes a pleasant breeze if you use it. Look at the Summit video showing caliber change.....works exactly the same on the APP also, caliber doesn't matter. With the correct down tube they all work the same.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5442483&viewfull=1#post5442483

The APP doesn't require the separate down tube support the Summit did.....it's all built-in to Lee's tool and included in TylerR's parts. So worth it!

[bigmike111]

APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium mounts directly to the APP quick change inserts. It is the cleanest setup you can do

Or is the quick change easier on all accounts? Yes

Is the "APP_Bracket_Main" the quick change and the spring/tube insert what connects to it to quick change?

[GWS]

bigmike11's question indicates that maybe someone needs to explain the quick change system a little clearer.....so I made a video that hopefully will answer some questions.

But first....... the parts you'll see in the video, required to feed using the two methods, (1--using a spring tube....or 2--using Lee's 9/16" diameter thin-wall clear tubing).

For both you need to mount the "APP_Bracket_Main"......the common link. In the video I pointed to the nut required above the Lee casting (see thumbnail in the post above).....below the Lee casting, you normally secure it with another nut below. but rather than just tighten it with a nut below, I added a coupling nut combined with a wing nut, to tighten the Bracket to the casting. The reason for all that was ease in putting it together and keeping it tight....without having to kneel on the floor under the bench, and use a wrench on it. For me that was a pain, so I made it easier for me.

The video shows both feeding methods: The springtube method requires 3 parts: the brass (or bullet) insert, the APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium (or large or small depending on what you are feeding) and finally the Spring_adapter_xx, (the part screwed onto the springtube....."xx" is the size).

The other method just uses Lee's 9/16" clear thin-wall tubing dropped into the caliber insert down tube.

How you connect either feeding method to a collator is another subject. Obviously if you are just using lee's shaker collator, you just add it above the clear tubing. Electric collator's to spring tubes are a little more complicated but does allow more leeway on where the collator can be mounted.


https://youtu.be/T8c6ORTPeZ8

Note: in the video I did not shove the insert all the way into the middle part....just so you can see the caliber I was demonstrating with.

Also, on the .223 and .308 inserts shown, I highlighted the recessed caliber ID numbers with a white "Meanstreak" gelled paint stick cleaned it up with mineral spirits just so my tired eyes can see them easier. But such is not important to function, so ignoring such is more than okay.

[bigmike111]

bigmike11's question indicates that maybe someone needs to explain the quick change system a little clearer.....so I made a video that hopefully will answer some questions.

But first....... the parts you'll see in the video, required to feed using the two methods, (1--using a spring tube....or 2--using Lee's 9/16" diameter thin-wall clear tubing).

For both you need to mount the "APP_Bracket_Main"......the common link. In the video I pointed to the nut required above the Lee casting (see thumbnail in the post above).....below the Lee casting, you normally secure it with another nut below. but rather than just tighten it with a nut below, I added a coupling nut combined with a wing nut, to tighten the Bracket to the casting. The reason for all that was ease in putting it together and keeping it tight....without having to kneel on the floor under the bench, and use a wrench on it. For me that was a pain, so I made it easier for me.

The video shows both feeding methods: The springtube method requires 3 parts: the brass (or bullet) insert, the APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium (or large or small depending on what you are feeding) and finally the Spring_adapter_xx, (the part screwed onto the springtube....."xx" is the size).

The other method just uses Lee's 9/16" clear thin-wall tubing dropped into the caliber insert down tube.

How you connect either feeding method to a collator is another subject. Obviously if you are just using lee's shaker collator, you just add it above the clear tubing. Electric collator's to spring tubes are a little more complicated but does allow more leeway on where the collator can be mounted.


https://youtu.be/T8c6ORTPeZ8

Note: in the video I did not shove the insert all the way into the middle part....just so you can see the caliber I was demonstrating with.

Also, on the .223 and .308 inserts shown, I highlighted the recessed caliber ID numbers with a white "Meanstreak" gelled paint stick cleaned it up with mineral spirits just so my tired eyes can see them easier. But such is not important to function, so ignoring such is more than okay.

Thank you. It makes a little bit more sense to me now. When I get a chance to fire up the printer and print some things I will report back. Thanks for making the video!

[azlester]

Any hints on preventing 55gr FMJ Hornady bullets from jamming up in the size 6 drop tubes to the bullet feeder die?

[r4ndy]

Any hints on preventing 55gr FMJ Hornady bullets from jamming up in the size 6 drop tubes to the bullet feeder die? I have some electrical tape going from the case feeder hole plug to the middle of the bullet feeder spring so the spring has about 3-4” of spring straight up and down for the bullet to go directly into the drop tube. When the spring is coming into the tube at an angle the bullets can bunch up at the top of the drop tube.

[azlester]

I have some electrical tape going from the case feeder hole plug to the middle of the bullet feeder spring so the spring has about 3-4” of spring straight up and down for the bullet to go directly into the drop tube. When the spring is coming into the tube at an angle the bullets can bunch up at the top of the drop tube.

Mine are sticking from the drop tube to the APP offset I am using because of my powder measure.

[TylerR]

Mine are sticking from the drop tube to the APP offset I am using because of my powder measure.

Best advice I can give is to smooth out the inside of the offset as best as you can. A little light sandpaper and run a patch with acetone through it a few times. Any rough surface from printing can cause things to bind up. Which size offset are you using?

[azlester]

Best advice I can give is to smooth out the inside of the offset as best as you can. A little light sandpaper and run a patch with acetone through it a few times. Any rough surface from printing can cause things to bind up. Which size offset are you using?

both the offset and the drop tube are 6

[TylerR]

both the offset and the drop tube are 6

Try moving to the #7 offset.

[azlester]

Tyler
What is the likelihood of getting you to do the brass slider spring adapter with more of a straight drop instead of the angle?

[GWS]

Tyler
What is the likelihood of getting you to do the brass slider spring adapter with more of a straight drop instead of the angle?

You got me stumped.......if you are talking about the Brass_Drop_Hole_Adapter, if it is a straight drop it would be aimed at your head and have to navigate another turn down to aim it below.....since the collator is normally tilted back. Otherwise I don't know what part you are talking about??? You got me stumped....but admittedly, TylerR is smarter.;)

[M500]

Are you referring to the Brass_Base_Up_Drop_Hole_Adapter or the Brass_Drop_Hole_Adapter?

GWS beat me to this, but could you explain in more detail?

[TylerR]

You got me stumped.......if you are talking about the Brass_Drop_Hole_Adapter, if it is a straight drop it would be aimed at your head and have to navigate another turn down to aim it below.....since the collator is normally tilted back. Otherwise I don't know what part you are talking about??? You got me stumped....but admittedly, TylerR is smarter.;)

Nope, I am stumped as well. :)

[azlester]

Are you referring to the Brass_Base_Up_Drop_Hole_Adapter or the Brass_Drop_Hole_Adapter?

GWS beat me to this, but could you explain in more detail?

Sometimes I am so dumb.... I had to move the case collator on my very small bench and when I did the spring got a bend in that 223/300blk cases were getting clogged up. When I saw your comments I went to take a picture of the set up and when I looked at the picture a giant light went off in my head!I had put the case slide in back wards and because it was back wards I had to lower the angle to get the cases to drop... the set screw was sticking out and holding the plate out too far and the cases wouldn't drop correctly. after I turned the plate around and I adjust to get more angle on the collator everything runs like a champ!
I have spent 4 + days trying to figure out what the problem was it dove me crazy! I couldn't see the trees for the forest!305554

[GWS]

It really IS aimed at your head! That's funny and an example of being so close to your work that you can't see the forest through the trees. Glad you got it figured out!.....talk about an easy fix......the best kind. Now have some fun.

[azlester]

I am.... I got 200 rounds of 223 loaded up and may do a couple hundred more after dinner.
it really is sooooo much easier and faster with both the bullet feeder as well as the case feeder running. It is great no to have to handle those small bullets anymore... my old hands are dancing in the street! LOL

[GWS]

I'm just about out of things 3D printing-wise to share here, but I thought somebody might find these little bin closures useful. There are aluminum ones for sale around...some reasonable priced some not so. These PLA ones are cheap yet they work fine.....and they're a little different in design, simpler, quick to print.

https://i.postimg.cc/WbwKQvBr/IMG_4102.jpg

Download the .stl below or you can ignore. ;)

305801

Also for those Lee fans still using Lee's shaker case collators for pistol, you might like this printed add-on to make it collate rifle too. Does .223 and .308 fast and perfect. (faster than anything short of one of TylerR's electric collators in this thread that is....)

Again, download is strictly optional for those who might need it. Video demo below the download.

305802


https://youtu.be/y1R2xrQFSbc

For the big center bolt to work you must drill the center hole, existing in Lees Shaker bowl, on through with a #7 wire drill bit....then use a 1/4"X20 tap and tap threads into the same hole. The smaller bolts will just screw in, no tapping necessary.

BTW, the center printed part is tapered on the bottom to fit Lee's funnel taper to their 4 holes. So you print it flat side down. The large part is dead flat. It does not need to be tapered....so the center screws to it flat side to the bottom flat.

[SWillier]

Hey Tyler, I've been through about 80% of this monster thread (not quite all of it!) looking and learning but not finding an answer.

I'm trying to make plates for the 300mm body, but the parts generator will only go as high as 200 for "collator_plate_d". I assume thats where I would change it to something like 248? I see in the Collator_Plate_generator_2,1,4.SCAD file, it lists 247.5mm(medium) plate diameter. I'm also looking at taking the preset values from the parts generator and putting them in the SCAD file to generate a plate, but not sure I'm getting that 100% correct.

Maybe the effort isn't worth while? I was going to print out caliber specific (brass base down) plates for 9mm, 40SW, and 223 instead of using the generic small pistol and small rifle ones.

Also, the development you have done is spectacular! I'm back at making collators for my press after dabbling in it years ago when it was the Ammo Mike collator. I made a 9mm bullet collator in that generation that worked fine, but never put it in full use. Looking forward to the 2 I am currently printing. One regular size for bullets and one 300mm for brass.

Thanks!

[TylerR]

Hey Tyler, I've been through about 80% of this monster thread (not quite all of it!) looking and learning but not finding an answer.

I'm trying to make plates for the 300mm body, but the parts generator will only go as high as 200 for "collator_plate_d". I assume thats where I would change it to something like 248? I see in the Collator_Plate_generator_2,1,4.SCAD file, it lists 247.5mm(medium) plate diameter. I'm also looking at taking the preset values from the parts generator and putting them in the SCAD file to generate a plate, but not sure I'm getting that 100% correct.

Maybe the effort isn't worth while? I was going to print out caliber specific (brass base down) plates for 9mm, 40SW, and 223 instead of using the generic small pistol and small rifle ones.

Also, the development you have done is spectacular! I'm back at making collators for my press after dabbling in it years ago when it was the Ammo Mike collator. I made a 9mm bullet collator in that generation that worked fine, but never put it in full use. Looking forward to the 2 I am currently printing. One regular size for bullets and one 300mm for brass.

Thanks!

Their are plates for the calibers you mentioned already in the project. The large pistol plate should work fine for 9mm and 40. The small rifle will work for .223. If you want to customize the plates I would suggest opening the file directly in openscad and just changing the parameters directly in the code. it is very well documented.

Edited to add: first off kudos for reading the thread. there is a ton of great info and not everyone takes the time. And thank you for the compliment!

[GWS]

Yep, but I can save you some time, or at least help you recognize the numbers. There are 4 plate diameters:

A.M.'s--147mm
Tyler's normal size--179.5mm
300 size--247.5mm
Mongo--297mm

But I've found TylerR's already designed plates are about as good as they get.

I use the large pistol brass plate for everything....9mm,.40, .45ACP and heck I even tried .223 rifle with it and it worked plenty fine for that too. I really like the idea of not having to print a new plate for every caliber. I've found that that's a waste of my time.

I use the 300 size collator for rifle brass mostly and the small ones for pistol.....but I don't think it matters a whit.

SWillier: Go back a few pages, where TylerR and I had a similar conversation.....I was making little ones for the one AmmoMike collator I have for use with my Lee APP. That's when I discovered how many calibers that large hole would do.....even a .223 video is there.....and that one was surprising. Go see starting about here: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5411101&viewfull=1#post5411101

Tyler had asked my what diameter the holes were (had to customize only because it was Ammo Mike's size. Turned out the holes were the same diameter as TylerR's large pistol brass plate. ;) They just looked huger because the plate was so small.

If I were you, I'd start by just printing the one TylerR suggested and see where you are! :) May save you a lot of time.

[SWillier]

I will use the standard small and pistol and small rifle plates for the 300. I initially thought I wanted to print calliber specific ones, but no need if the generic ones will work well. I will use the 300 for brass, and the "normal" for bullets. I always thought the AmmoMike one was a bit small, so the normal Tyler size will be perfect for bullets.

The Bullet one is all printed minus spring adapters and electronics box. Still trying to make a decision on what springs to use. I have the generic bender springs from back when I built the AM colator. Thinking about getting the DAA springs??

The 300 is hopefully on track now after a few aborted spaghetti factory starts. I think this is the largest thing I've printed on my Ender 3 Max, and you can tell PLA wasn't reall happy about sticking to the outside unused portions of the build sheet (Wham Bam PEX). A little acetone/ steel wool treatment seems to have fixed that.

Only last decision is 2 independant electronics boxes or one combined?

300 body printing on the Max (with a LONG way to go), ramp and hole plug on the pro. Nice to have 2 printers!

305892

[GWS]

Haven't tried it but I wonder if this stuff would work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTV5UW4/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=94c6970e3d4e5b08398f3aead8589c6e&content-id=amzn1.sym.53aae2ac-0129-49a5-9c09-6530a9e11786%3Aamzn1.sym.53aae2ac-0129-49a5-9c09-6530a9e11786&hsa_cr_id=9785155910501&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=fca86751-9bcd-4f36-a81f-c53b218c5869&pd_rd_w=h6tMJ&pd_rd_wg=trPbj&qid=1666298609&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_title&sr=1-2-a094db1c-5033-42c6-82a2-587d01f975e8&th=1

It's stainless steel and made to insert 1/2" tubing inside.....

[r4ndy]

301257
301258

Besides these files, print TylerR's Brass_Feed_Base_Down_Adapter.stl, only pivot it 30 degrees to set the base flat on the bed. This is the outlet that screws to the underside of the slide plate. And of course the clutch parts that you prefer.

It took me four months to get around to this but I printed out the parts and can confirm it works fine with the Geartisan $15 motor on the Ammo Mike bin. Was planning to use this for depriming 223 on the APP but decided to clean them first so using try Tyler case feeder, but it is good to have a backup. Thanks for sharing!

Motor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KNG6NT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[GWS]

You're welcome........glad it worked out!

[bigmike111]

Their are plates for the calibers you mentioned already in the project. The large pistol plate should work fine for 9mm and 40. The small rifle will work for .223. If you want to customize the plates I would suggest opening the file directly in openscad and just changing the parameters directly in the code. it is very well documented.

Edited to add: first off kudos for reading the thread. there is a ton of great info and not everyone takes the time. And thank you for the compliment!

I have read through the whole thread, about 2 years ago I went through most of it and follow along as I can.

The hardest part about reading the thread is remembering where you saw something! :lol:

[GWS]

I have read through the whole thread, about 2 years ago I went through most of it and follow along as I can.

The hardest part about reading the thread is remembering where you saw something! :lol:

Boy that's an understatement!! A smart person would list subject headers on paper, then list post #'s of posts that you want to remember, under each. I haven't been that smart. Least ways not up to today. ;)

Page #'s don't work.....there's more than one way to view the thread....posts per page can change.

[SWillier]

Wanting to make sure I'm not missing a part ot two.

For the 300mm body, is there a ramp or wall extender file? I have "Feeder 1.4.6.4" files. I don't see either. I thought maybe the normal ramp worked, but no. I see Normal and Mongo versions, but not 300??

[GWS]

Link below is the beginning of the 300mm body.......ramp is Mongo. Don't think extenders were made for it.....that's one part I've never used.....extenders.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5291651&viewfull=1#post5291651

The only special parts I made for it was one to knock over soldiers when collating rifle brass, and a new electrical box. Box below: (stl files that one are in the "contributions" folder....under GWS. I think the knocker is in Tyler's stuff. Forgot what he calls it.

https://i.postimg.cc/qvk36z4y/IMG-3975.jpg

Can't remember if sliders are Mongo or not. But from the link above I'll bet you can find it fast. I think they are. Wrong...they are normal sized for TylerR's original.

A note to TylerR: ....I took a little time this afternoon to find the spot where the 300 base was "introduced." Having found it and posted it above, I started reading from there for a few pages......and danged if that wasn't where everything started getting more exciting (IOW's where more people got interested since after the last charge, when your original size started! Might be a good place to point new people to read from.....except that it's a little far forward missing the Mongo intro. Maybe find that and have another entry point. And maybe a third where the Lee quick change starts, and a fourth where the bullet feeder dies start.

Four isn't too many to have handy. I'll work on the other three.......we also ought to add where the "Normal" size base starts......maybe even most important.

[bigmike111]

Boy that's an understatement!! A smart person would list subject headers on paper, then list post #'s of posts that you want to remember, under each. I haven't been that smart. Least ways not up to today. ;)

Page #'s don't work.....there's more than one way to view the thread....posts per page can change.

You can get post numbers. Not sure if the number stays the same even if someone deletes a post but it’s a good start.

Even after this whole time thinking about it I won’t be smart enough to sit down and take notes. Even if I did I’d still have an unanticipated problem that wasn’t in the notes. 😂

[SWillier]

Link below is the beginning of the 300mm body.......ramp is Mongo. Don't think extenders were made for it.....that's one part I've never used.....extenders.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5291651&viewfull=1#post5291651

The only special parts I made for it was one to knock over soldiers when collating rifle brass, and a new electrical box. Box below: (stl files that one are in the "contributions" folder....under GWS. I think the knocker is in Tyler's stuff. Forgot what he calls it.

https://i.postimg.cc/qvk36z4y/IMG-3975.jpg

Can't remember if sliders are Mongo or not. But from the link above I'll bet you can find it fast. I think they are.

A note to TylerR: ....I took a little time this afternoon to find the spot where the 300 base was "introduced." Having found it and posted it above, I started reading from there for a few pages......and danged if that wasn't where everything started getting more exciting (IOW's where more people got interested since after the last charge, when your original size started! Might be a good place to point new people to read from.....except that it's a little far forward missing the Mongo intro. Maybe find that and have another entry point. And maybe a third where the Lee quick change starts, and a fourth where the bullet feeder dies start.

Four isn't too many to have handy. I'll work on the other three.......we also ought to add where the "Normal" size base starts......maybe even most important.

Thanks. I missed that one for the ramp.

The slider / case drop piece from the standard size fits in the 300. I just checked that out now than my 50+ hour 300mm body print is done!

[TylerR]

Wanting to make sure I'm not missing a part ot two.

For the 300mm body, is there a ramp or wall extender file? I have "Feeder 1.4.6.4" files. I don't see either. I thought maybe the normal ramp worked, but no. I see Normal and Mongo versions, but not 300??

The 300mm body uses the Mongo ramp.
Sorry I see GWS already answered. I do not have a wall extender currently for the 300. The extender is really for when you have to run at an extreme angle for certain bullets, and brass base up. If just running regular brass you should be good.

[TylerR]

A note to TylerR: ....I took a little time this afternoon to find the spot where the 300 base was "introduced." Having found it and posted it above, I started reading from there for a few pages......and danged if that wasn't where everything started getting more exciting (IOW's where more people got interested since after the last charge, when your original size started! Might be a good place to point new people to read from.....except that it's a little far forward missing the Mongo intro. Maybe find that and have another entry point. And maybe a third where the Lee quick change starts, and a fourth where the bullet feeder dies start.

Four isn't too many to have handy. I'll work on the other three.......we also ought to add where the "Normal" size base starts......maybe even most important.

It's funny because sometimes I go back through the thread to help answer new questions, and I am always amazed at the thought process and collaboration that went in to where it is today. Pretty amazing really.

[tt365]

I just wanted to thank all those involved in contributing to this project. As a new reloader and avid modder, this is right up my alley. I made one from thingiverse, and it works well for bullets, but all the options here are great. The feed dies got me to upgrade my press, and I'm printing a 300 for brass, as the largest I want to run right now is .308 and the 300 just feels like a good choice for it. It will seem really huge for my .380 ACP, so maybe I'll end up with a regular as well. I have PTS (printer too small) for the mongo, so that's out for now.

I was just filling the tubes for my Lee bullet feeder with the other collator, but I'm going to set it up with the proximity sensor and do this nicer feed setup. I'm sure I'll have questions later, right now I'm printing like mad and waiting for orders to come in. The 300 body is the largest single object I've ever tried to print, so it will be interesting to see completed. I have about 1.5 days to go just for that. :)

I'm kind of a noob at design, but I'll try to contribute if I see a spot that I can help in.

[M500]

I just wanted to thank all those involved in contributing to this project. As a new reloader and avid modder, this is right up my alley. I made one from thingiverse, and it works well for bullets, but all the options here are great. The feed dies got me to upgrade my press, and I'm printing a 300 for brass, as the largest I want to run right now is .308 and the 300 just feels like a good choice for it. It will seem really huge for my .380 ACP, so maybe I'll end up with a regular as well. I have PTS (printer too small) for the mongo, so that's out for now.

I was just filling the tubes for my Lee bullet feeder with the other collator, but I'm going to set it up with the proximity sensor and do this nicer feed setup. I'm sure I'll have questions later, right now I'm printing like mad and waiting for orders to come in. The 300 body is the largest single object I've ever tried to print, so it will be interesting to see completed. I have about 1.5 days to go just for that. :)

I'm kind of a noob at design, but I'll try to contribute if I see a spot that I can help in.

Welcome to the forum. Good to have another member. The depth of this project can be a little overwhelming at first, but isn't bad if you take it one piece at a time. The manual does a good job of covering most problems, but ask if you still have issues.

I too look forward to contributing, and will soon, but want to get things sorted out a little better before I send it to TylerR. Seems most of the time I need something electrical, it comes from china, and adds another 2-3 weeks. But I think the last piece I need is on the way.

[tt365]

Well, damn. The body looked good initially, but warped a little on the back and now I can't center the wheels. When I pull them up in the slicer together, it looks right, so I have a local problem.

My setup just isn't getting as good a first layer as I thought when I go over the whole bed. It "should" as it has a bed sensor and I'm running the calibration, but it's just not cutting it.

[GWS]

Well, damn. The body looked good initially, but warped a little on the back and now I can't center the wheels. When I pull them up in the slicer together, it looks right, so I have a local problem.

My setup just isn't getting as good a first layer as I thought when I go over the whole bed. It "should" as it has a bed sensor and I'm running the calibration, but it's just not cutting it.

Questions:
0. What software are you slicing with?
1. Which printer do you have?
2. What kind of bed are you using? Is your print releasing from the bed prematurely?
3. Are you using an automatic bed leveler?
4. What brand, kind, and size filament are you trying to use?
5. What bed temperature are you using?
6. What filament temperature?
7. What distance from the bed are you trying to set your Printhead to for the first layer.
8. Is the top of the first layer round or flattened some? Do you know what baby stepping is?
9. layer height setting, first layer, 2nd layer and on.
10. Using a skirt, brim or raft?

I had trouble with my Creality glass bed until I took TylerR's advice and ordered a Polypropylene bed to clamp over it. Problems very rare after that, and when something does happen, I have to change nozzles and sometimes filament tubing. Mostly just getting the temperatures and first layer to nozzle distance right.....babystepping is a must every time for me. Got to get that first layer squeezed just right. But I only have used PLA and PLA plus. For me, temperature is best at 215C and 65C on the polypropylene bed, and works for every PLA I've used so far....Overture and Zyltec's normal and composite silks.

That will at least give us enough info to get started with help ideas, or who even has the experience with the machine and material you have.

[tt365]

Wow GWS, thanks for the detailed list. :)

Software: Superslicer (modified PrusaSlicer)
Printer: Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus (Klipper firmware)
Bed: Spring steel (stock) with a 0.5mm PEI sheet instead of the stock sticker
Filament: Polyterra PLA, 1.75mm, 1kg, matte black
Temp: 60C bed, 225C extruder
First Layer Height: 0.3mm, 0.2mm for the rest
No brim or raft

First layer varied more than I would like, but it was about as good as I could get out of it. Some too close, some too far. I'm not sure what baby stepping is, adjusting the Z offset a little on the fly maybe?

The PEI is what I'm used to from my Lulzbot mini, though I replaced the one it came with. I think that one is 1mm. Both work well and are far more durable that the stock thin stuff the manufacturers use. I might try a similar polypropylene at some point if I find one. It seems like PEI has gotten popular lately. While the thin ones sucked, the thicker versions are very tough. Though the tall skinny parts from the bullet feed dies needed a brim to stay put on both printers. So the PP might be better there.

These printers apparently have a known problem with the auto level. I guess something is a little off on the Y axis, and it throws things off enough that the auto level doesn't work well. Some users replaced the mount for the sensor with one designed to place it on the same Y as the nozzle, this helped a LOT. After doing that, re-leveling and resetting Z-offset, then doing a mesh level with the auto level sensor, the first layer is now very consistent. I think this run is a little close, so I should move Z-offset up a little, but it was decent so I let it keep printing a new body.

I think this one will get it done, it's very flat and the ridges from the first layer disappeared after about 2 normal layers. It also seems to be sticking well, now that I know where to keep looking for warping. It's gotten to the top layers for the ramp and text, and so far so good. I did put a brim on this one, figured it can't hurt and they are pretty easy to clean up after. I didn't notice that area wasn't leveling well before as I never printed on it. Large prints certainly help detect issues.

If someone else is running an S1 with similar problems, try this thing out. I printed it on my Lulzbot, but it should print on just about anything. I used PETG for temp resistance, but other people have used PLA without issues.

https://www.printables.com/model/257460-ender-3-s1-zero-offset-cr-touch-mount

[GWS]

The list in my last post was to just let everyone see where you are. There are so many variables with equipment and media, that knowing what you're using prevents us from giving you info that works for what we use, but not so much for you. That way people who DO have experience with what you have can chime in and help.

I've never used PEI, that was going to be next if PP didn't work.....but I don't ever have to use sprays, tape, or anything....with PP raised 5 degrees to 65C. In fact, for big prints like bases I have to wait until it's back to room temperature to release a print.....zero warping. I do clean the surface with 99% alcohol after every print, but that takes a few seconds. With smaller tall prints, that are top heavy I can release it earlier by popping it pretty smartly along the base with the spatula or even better, a upside down chisel. Absolutely love the Mamorubot Polypropylene. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mamorubot+3d+printer+platform+polypropylene+bu ild+plates&crid=JN4WUJMOZXPT&sprefix=Mamorubot%2Caps%2C182&ref=nb_sb_ss_pltr-ranker-1hour_2_9

Yes babystepping is Z-offset control on the fly. I try to get it right before the skirt (all I ever use) is done....squeezed down just enough that the 1st layer joins nicely with each pass of the nozzle....IOW's no holes or deep grooves between passes, and the finished print turned upside down looks like one smooth layer.....too low and the media can skip and cause hell.

I don't care for Creality's self leveling with the probe. No moving parts using the EZABL proximity sensor leveler from TH3D Studio...and their firmware. It levels perfectly for me, but you'd have to call them to see if that firmware can work with Klipper....I have no idea. When first starting out I gave a z command that would have broken a probe....so I dodged that bullet. ;)

[tt365]

Well, I'm about 15 hours in, about half way. The flat bottom of the body is done and the walls are being built up. It looks great so far. Hopefully it finishes up nicely so I can put it together over the weekend. I have the other parts called out, other than some of the nuts/bolts I need to hit Ace for. I finally got the last electronic part, the sensors, so I can get the bullet feeder set up to work with the feed die. My press is going to look like a mad scientist experiment, but that's half the fun!

Got the electronics set up. It's working with the old bullet collator, feeding .38 Special into the feed die and refilling when I dump them into my hand. Very cool to see working. Wired up both sides and they seem good, but can't really test till the brass collator is ready.

Got the 300 size case feeder set up and connected to the press. Works great! I ran out of brass for .38 special, so I guess I need to switch over to something else. Thanks for the helpful thread! I need to explore the rest of the forum and get more loading done.

[GWS]

Congratulations! Not as hard to get there as most people think. 3D printing is way more worthwhile than just making toys and trinkets, and brackets. Making reloading tools is a perfect fit.

I learned all I needed to know, here and on 3D printing videos on You Tube....even as old as I was. Learning a free 3D cad is next if you want to create your own designs. Lots of videos on that too.

[AR-Bossman]

Congratulations! Not as hard to get there as most people think. 3D printing is way more worthwhile than making toys and trinkets, and brackets. Making reloading tools is a perfect fit.

I learned all I needed to know, here and on 3D printing videos on You Tube....even as old as I was. Learning a free 3D cad is next if you want to create your own designs. Lots of videos on that too.

You took to it like a duck to water. Pretty impressive.

[GWS]

Hi Bossman! Good to rub posts with you again! I guarantee you there were a few missteps, but you guys were always there to help me figure it out.

AR-Bossman was the guy who encouraged me to dive in head first. It's been really fun and worthwhile....thank you!

[tt365]

Kind of a dumb little thing, but I already had a 3/4" square tube mount set up, so I made a little adapter to fit the 1" square tube mount. I don't think I'd try to hold the Mongo up with it, but it works for the little one just fine. If it's useful, feel free to include it in the repo.

I have some issues with my older collator with particular bullets, which might just not work well with these things, but the scad file for the plates made me want to try anyway. :) These are some little 380 ACP 95 grain flat nose. They tend to double stack on the thicker plates and other little issues. I have no idea if I'll be able to come up with a working setup for them, but it's interesting to try, and significantly easier with this design. If I do, I'll be sure to update with the settings.

[j_dude77]

Wow. It has been a while since I have followed the progress of Tyler's design. It is amazing to see the progress. I noticed that there is now a 300mm and Mongo version. Has anyone tried collating bullets with the Mongo? Or is it too much weight to hold? Looking for something to run on a star sizer nose down.

[GWS]

The Mongo he created first. But only the 350X350 bedded printers could print it. So TylerR had mercy on me and others who only had 300x300mm beds. Thus the 300mm was born.

I wouldn't dream of using the Mongo or 300mm for bullets.....the first basic size was the perfect for bullets, IMO. Pretty sure Tyler made parts to drop them nose down too, I just don't have a need for that.....even though I did make parts for AmmoMike's size collator to do that for a friend....even without the ramp.....but interest died before I got past the original .45 size plate.

That was 2 years ago last October in 2020. Here's the link.....in case you're curious. Most likely you already saw it.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5006697&viewfull=1#post5006697

[tt365]

I managed to adjust the scad code to make it work for these little bullets. .380 ACP flat nose 95 gr. I had to add the ability to move the ring of holes and slots offset a little from the default location, otherwise the slots were long enough to have the bullet lay down in the slot and eventually hang up the collator. I'll attach a ZIP with the STL and the modified scad code in case it's useful to anyone. Combined with the #5 flip plate it's flipping everything and running well now.

The only problem I have now is getting them to feed into the rest of the system. They are so short they can hang up in the spring adapter sideways. Once one does, they stack up and block off the drop hole. If I leave the adapter out or use the plug, I can get them to run fine. I tried the offset adapter, but that hangs up worse, I suspect my change to the hole location in the plate might make that one less likely to work.

And typing this gave me a facepalm moment. I think I can get Fusion 360 to modify an STL, and I have the plug, so if I can get it to start there I can probably get something going with it. I think if I make one like the standard adapter and neck the funnel section down faster it might help.

[GWS]

I'm glad I don't shoot .380's! ;) We've had discussions on this thread about square bullets that don't have a heavy end, and I can't remember what the answer was, or even if there WAS a good answer. TylerR will most likely remember. Maybe he will post soon on the subject.

On another subject......I went and bought one of Lee's new Pro 6000/6 Pack Pro presses to play with for a winter project. At my age I'm always looking for a project to keep my brain busy. Will be using it to load.......(don't faint TylerR).....9mm. Still don't own one....yet.:)

Thought I'd use the Ammo Mike bullet feeder with the feed-all red plate I posted a couple of months ago. And share a case feeder already on line. Should be an interesting press.....for a 6 station progressive it is tiny! Lee finally has a new primer feed that just might work. Sorry no .380's in my future.....9mm is pushing it, but I'm thinking maybe my wife would like it for carry. Have NO idea what yet.

[tt365]

That's funny, I ended up grabbing a Pro 6000 as well. So far, I like it. I haven't done any primers on it, my 38 special I primed on a single stage and the 380s are pre-primed as well. Maybe I'll toss some 308s in there, Lee claims it should work. :) Anyone have thoughts on case lubrication in a progressive? I've only done lube/size on single stage so far. Seems like one might end up with a sticky/slippery press. Guess I could just leave the sizing die out of the progressive and do case prep separately like before.

I did run about 150 38 special without issues other than maybe 4 that the case didn't hook into the shell plate properly. Just jostling the handle got them in place and it worked great. Coming from single stage and the pro 1000, it's been a nice upgrade. The 1000 I got as a kit cheaply from them, so I didn't lose much upgrading. I wanted to see if progressive would work for me, and other than primer issues I liked it. Even the priming wasn't too horrible, just irritating enough that it was worth pre-priming them to me.

Some quality time with a file got them feeding better, just needed to remove a little material on the offset adapter on the thin side of the adapter. Then I realized I printed it with the threads going the wrong way, so I get to run another one. No big deal, but hopefully I can call it good and do more loading. It is fun to mess with though.

The Z-mirrored parts work great after adjusting with a file the same way as before. Down side, flipping the parts also flips the orientation of the offset so you have to unscrew the main adapter from the collator body and rotate it 90 degrees to keep the hole lined up properly. No big deal, but if you end up swapping them often, it could be annoying. I doubt I'll do it much, unless I go to something that won't fit in my spring. Larger bullets are unlikely to need the offset though, so it might not matter.

[SWillier]

That's funny, I ended up grabbing a Pro 6000 as well. So far, I like it.

Me, too. I'm hoping it ends up being a decent press. I'm switching from a Pro 1000 press. With 6 stations, I got to ditch the Lee bullet feeder contraption, use a factory crimp die, and get to add a powder checker.

I just finally got it all mounted up, but still need to hook my electronics up and mount the switch box. I'm thiniking I'll make a new back plate to the electronics box that will mount to the pole (3/4" gas pipe) for the bullet collator. I ended up trying the APP press case feeder parts, and they work out perfect on the 6000. I hope the case feeder location will work out when I put the APP press on the pedestal mount, too (with a longer spring tube for sure).

Thanks to everyone who contributed to the project!!! :drinks: These look like they will work out great.


306863

[azlester]

What's new on the User Manual??? I see that it was updated/changed yesterday.

[TylerR]

What's new on the User Manual??? I see that it was updated/changed yesterday.

I simply fixed a link to an image that was no longer working.

[azlester]

I simply fixed a link to an image that was no longer working.

I check the files every couple of weeks to see if there is anything new... Mine is working GREAT!

[printedboolits]

This project is awesome! Was thinking I might have to make my own, then found this. Thanks everybody who has contributed!


I'm currently printing out a set of parts, and If things function well, might print out a mongo sized one next.

I do have a question I didn't find an answer for while browsing through the thread, though I'll admit to not reading all 300+ pages.

I mainly want to use this help load plinking/practice 9mm rounds in a lee progressive (bullet tip facing up). Need to order a ton of hard cast bullets, and am wondering how the different types may feed. Looking at 115grain round nose, or 125 grain conical. The larger conical rounds are a fraction more expensive, but I care more about reliability in loading.

Any known problems with either of the two listed types? Should I be looking at a completely different option?

If nobody knows about relative reliability of 9mm bullets, guess I can just start a bit slower and order smaller amounts of each for testing.

Thanks!

[r4ndy]

I used to use a Lee Pro 1000 with their bullet feeder and the collator/drop tubes. 124 round nose coated bullets (Bayou Bullets) fed well. I had issues with Berry’s copper plated 124 round nose slipping through the fingers on occasion. No experience with other profiles/weights.

[GWS]

Lee's bullet feeder isn't too reliable.....the 3d printed ones are way better.....

The only bullets that have given people trouble in TylerR's bullet feeder are the short square ones that don't have a heavier end. TylerR will have to tell you how they fared with experimentation.....I never use such bullets.....so zero experience here.

[TylerR]

Lee's bullet feeder isn't too reliable.....the 3d printed ones are way better.....

The only bullets that have given people trouble in TylerR's bullet feeder are the short square ones that don't have a heavier end. TylerR will have to tell you how they fared with experimentation.....I never use such bullets.....so zero experience here.

Yes. The solution was basically the offset adapters which have a much more profiled funnel and decreasing the hole size for the bullet slots.

[printedboolits]

I used to use a Lee Pro 1000 with their bullet feeder and the collator/drop tubes. 124 round nose coated bullets (Bayou Bullets) fed well. I had issues with Berry’s copper plated 124 round nose slipping through the fingers on occasion. No experience with other profiles/weights.


Lee's bullet feeder isn't too reliable.....the 3d printed ones are way better.....

The only bullets that have given people trouble in TylerR's bullet feeder are the short square ones that don't have a heavier end. TylerR will have to tell you how they fared with experimentation.....I never use such bullets.....so zero experience here.

Excellent, thanks for the answers everybody! Sounds like I'll be fine with either choice as far as the collator goes. Thought the Lee bullet feeder looked finicky, but figured I could tweak it or print a different arm for it.

GWS, got a link to a 3d printed feeder that works well? I still haven't bought the Lee version yet, so I suppose that's good. Can try out something printed first.

[GWS]

This thread, came into being as a help center for the benefit of those who have been brave enough to buy 3D printers, who have a desire to learn how to print their own reloading equipment. TylerR was the one who developed it into a source of wonderful print files you can print at home to build this stuff.....and it all works well.

The print files are available if you download, the "downloads" link at the bottom of each of TylerR's posts (as in the post just above yours). This reservoir of 3D printing magic is not for sale, but created for private personal, not commercial use. People here can also help those who have trouble with their printers as well. Welcome to this part of the hobby! I only joined the 3D printer group here two years ago....turned into the funnest, most useful hobby within a hobby, that I do.

[printedboolits]

This thread, came into being as a help center for the benefit of those who have been brave enough to buy 3D printers, who have a desire to learn how to print their own reloading equipment. TylerR was the one who developed it into a source of wonderful print files you can print at home to build this stuff.....and it all works well.

The print files are available if you download, the "downloads" link at the bottom of each of TylerR's posts (as in the post just above yours). This reservoir of 3D printing magic is not for sale, but created for private personal, not commercial use. People here can also help those who have trouble with their printers as well. Welcome to this part of the hobby! I only joined the 3D printer group here two years ago....turned into the funnest, most useful hobby within a hobby, that I do.

Ah, I overlooked the die section in the downloads, as I thought it was just for adapting to other press systems. Was looking for a bullet feeder that functioned like the Lee, that crimped in the same station.

I'll have to evaluate if the printed version will work for me or not. Should have probably waited for the 6 stage lee presses to come out. Would have liked to be able to squeeze in a powder checker. Maybe I'll try and figure out something automated with a scale for a finished round quality control check.

Got most of the collator parts printed though, and it sorts 9mm brass perfectly when spinning by hand. Hope to have a motor figured out soon.

[ranger391xt]

I have a question regarding the 300mm feeder. I know it uses the "standard" size slide plates. I assumed, apparently incorrectly, that it also takes the standard ramp. Does the Mongo ramp fit or is there a 300 mm ramp lurking somewhere that I can't find?

While typing this it occurred to me I may not even need the ramp since I plan to use the 300 I am making as a case feeder only. I guess I'd still like to know which ramp should be used since I don't want it to look incomplete...

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Probably ought to be renamed, "Mongo_300 ramp". ;)

[printedboolits]

I have a question regarding the 300mm feeder. I know it uses the "standard" size slide plates. I assumed, apparently incorrectly, that it also takes the standard ramp. Does the Mongo ramp fit or is there a 300 mm ramp lurking somewhere that I can't find?

While typing this it occurred to me I may not even need the ramp since I plan to use the 300 I am making as a case feeder only. I guess I'd still like to know which ramp should be used since I don't want it to look incomplete...

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

I don't know what slicer program you're using, but the majority of them will let you import multiple .stl files. This will let you move them around inside the program, and you can see if/how parts fit together.

Most programs will also let you move parts up away from the bed, or sink them below it. That's what I did here with Prusa Slicer. Sunk the 300 size main body below the bed height, and then lined up the mongo ramp to see if it fits. Seems to fit perfectly to my eye.

307108

[heliskyr]

Forgive me if this has been covered before, but I didn't find mention from my thread searches.

When I use this to feed .224 bullets into the bullet feed dies to load on my Dillon, I am having a problem with bullets getting flipped over by the collator, regardless of the initial orientation of the bullet in the collator slot. So when the bullet is correctly base down, it gets flipped to nose down, and vice versa.

I am using 55gr Hornady FMJ boat tail rounds. For the collator, I am using the Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Small_#2 (about 1 year old version though, not the newest which appears to have different depressions at the mouth of the bullet slots). I am also using the Bullet_Nose_Up_Slide_Plate_#2.

This bullet feeder worked flawlessly when using it for 9mm (different collator and slide plates of course) for what it's worth.

Is it possible the boat tail of the bullets I'm loading are getting caught on the slide plate ridge and getting flipped because of that?

[tt365]

Feeding 308 boattail with the #11 flip plate. I found that putting a screw in the hole on the back of the plate allowed adjusting the ridge to the point where the flat side would ride along the top like it should, while the point would fall down for rotation. I don't have any 223 bullets here or I'd test it out for you, but I bet something like that will help.

I also found that adjusting speed and the tilt of the body makes more difference than I initially anticipated.

I had the most trouble with nearly cylindrical bullets. The pointy rifle bullets were pretty easy compared to that. It seems like you have to tune it in for the particular bullets that you have. It's faster the more you do it.

[heliskyr]

Thanks- your advice helped! I played with how deeply the slide plate sits into the feeder bowl to adjust where the ridge of the slide engages with the bullets. I found that if I align the ridge with the outer edge of the collator plate, it prevents the tapered boattail of my base-down bullets from tilting the bullet (which starts the flipping process). Also tweaked the angle of the bowl a little.

So far so good!

[GWS]

Yup......see how easy this is to learn and tweak? You can fix a lot of problems with collator angle adjustment, and a change in width of the shelf/ridge on the slide plate.......and neither of you had to post a 1000 times like me to figure it out. :)

Probably harder for me to learn was how to to use my 3d printer well......and most of those problems went away with TylerR's printer bed recommendation! Polypropylene....no more masking tape, or spray on sticky stuff. Just a 10 second wipe with 99% rubbing alcohol before every new print.

[r4ndy]

Hi - I am planning to print the main body wall extender in the orientation shown in the manual. Even if I set supports to 70 degrees there is a bit showing as needing supports. Looking for confirmation this prints okay without supports before jumping in to a 9.5 hour print. I am using an Ender 5 with Overture PLA Plus. Thanks

[GWS]

r4ndy, I've personally never printed one, so TylerR this is a question I can't help ease the burden on you!;)

[xormac]

Hi guys,

@TyLeRr and @GWS and everyone who contributed, thanks for an awesome and exciting project to form part of.

2 Questions I have however:

1. Am I correct in thinking that PeTG will be a good material choice for this project, granted one has your print profile dialed in for PeTG?
2. Would a motor like this suffice, and is there any existing file that caters for mounting it? https://www.robotics.org.za/GB37-008

Thanks in advance.

[tt365]

1. Am I correct in thinking that PeTG will be a good material choice for this project, granted one has your print profile dialed in for PeTG?
2. Would a motor like this suffice, and is there any existing file that caters for mounting it? https://www.robotics.org.za/GB37-008


PETG would work fine, but so will just about anything. There isn't much stress on the various parts, so you don't need anything special. PLA works fine, and is super easy to print and dial in. If you already have a good tuned setup for PETG and plenty of filament, go for it. I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work.

That motor is probably good enough, but I doubt it will fit up to the existing files. Can you find one like one of the listed versions? The amazon link has drawings showing the mounting hole dimensions so you can compare to another source if needed. The JGY370 type seem very common, I have some from another vendor here that have the same dimensions. Though having used both, I think I'd go with the 634JS if you can. It's a little more powerful and seems built better. The user manual has a couple other options as well.

[tt365]

Hi - I am planning to print the main body wall extender in the orientation shown in the manual. Even if I set supports to 70 degrees there is a bit showing as needing supports. Looking for confirmation this prints okay without supports before jumping in to a 9.5 hour print. I am using an Ender 5 with Overture PLA Plus. Thanks

I haven't printed it, so I can't say for sure. Looking at it, I would guess it would print fine that way. I'm frequently surprised how well some things print without support. It might sag a little at the top of the arch, but that wouldn't hurt anything. And it might not even happen if your printer profile is tuned well for bridging. I think I'd recommend to try without the extension first. You might decide you don't need it. I have a standard size I use for bullets and it hasn't had a capacity issue. I generally have to stop to refill primers first, so I just top everything else off at the same time.

[tt365]

Thanks- your advice helped! I played with how deeply the slide plate sits into the feeder bowl to adjust where the ridge of the slide engages with the bullets. I found that if I align the ridge with the outer edge of the collator plate, it prevents the tapered boattail of my base-down bullets from tilting the bullet (which starts the flipping process). Also tweaked the angle of the bowl a little.

So far so good!


Glad to hear it! These things are so nice once you get the feel for them. I let them drop into a little bin to start with to make adjustments to get them flipping the way I want. Then I can adjust and just dump the bin back in once I get it set up. And this thread has TONS of info in it for that. It can be a little tricky to find, but between the manual, the search and just reading around, I found most of what I needed to get going. I made life more difficult with the tiny 380s I was loading, but with a little help I was able to get them feeding with the plate I posted before.

[r4ndy]

Thanks tt365. I have the collator and never understood why I would need a bigger one until I started mass 223 case prep on the APP. As I started to add more handfuls of 223 it started spitting an occasional case over the back wall. I have more than enough Dillon blue so I figure why not try the extender :)

[r4ndy]

I gave up on PETG on my Ender 5 trying to make AR15 mag loaders; lots of stringing. The Overture PLA pro/plus has been really consistent for me and easy to print. If PETG works for you go for it, but it gave me nothing but headaches.

[xormac]

PETG would work fine, but so will just about anything. There isn't much stress on the various parts, so you don't need anything special. PLA works fine, and is super easy to print and dial in. If you already have a good tuned setup for PETG and plenty of filament, go for it. I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work.

That motor is probably good enough, but I doubt it will fit up to the existing files. Can you find one like one of the listed versions? The amazon link has drawings showing the mounting hole dimensions so you can compare to another source if needed. The JGY370 type seem very common, I have some from another vendor here that have the same dimensions. Though having used both, I think I'd go with the 634JS if you can. It's a little more powerful and seems built better. The user manual has a couple other options as well.

Thanks @tt365

Closest I could find locally was a JGY370, but in 12.8kg/cm and 6RPM… would that suffice?

I could probably edit the mesh files to handle the other if needed

Edit:

I actually found a 10rpm JGY-370 with 5.6kg/cm… surely that’ll do?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hporter]

Christmas is around the corner, and the wife is wanting to know what I want for x-mas.

I read this thread all the time, as it is fascinating to me what you guys build with your printers. I just watched one of GWS's videos this morning on making a case feeder for his RCBS Summit Press. How cool is that. I've also watched the bullet feeders and caliber specific accessories being made for the Lee APP - which interests me very much. As so far, the only mod I have made to my APP is to connect my Dillon case feeder to it.

So my question is, what printer would you guys recommend for this Christmas season? When I browse Amazon, I get dizzy comparing everything that is available. I know printers get discussed a lot, but they also evolve and new models come out all the time.

I don't need to make a large collator, but I will definitely build a bullet feeder of some sort for my Dillon. I don't have room for a big machine anyway.

Any recommendations? I need to give the wife a make and model number soon so she can scratch me off her list.

[GWS]

You've most likely figured out where to put it, so it depends.....on how much room you are giving it. The Ender 3 's are still a good choice, bang for buck, IMO, but you will have a limited bed size to do TylerR's Standard size collator, but no bigger. Which is plenty good for bullet feeders.

I went a little bigger because I didn't want to be limited..... Mine's a Creality CR-10v2 which will print 300x300 and obviously will print the 300 size collator. I use that 300 size for Rifle case feeders.....but it won't print Tyler's Mongo....for that you need a 350x350 bed.

I have zero experience with any of the other brands.....so no help there. Once you settle on a size then look at the features. An automatic bed leveler is a must IMO. My printer does not come with one and TH3d with their awesome proximity sensor, no moving parts leveler has been a blessing....love it. But it takes effort and good direction following skills to go that route. But hey I was over 70, and if I can do it......

But many of the new printers have some sort of Autoleveler built in. I'd probably go that route....just less effort. And get one with "silent" motors. They aren't but they are quieter than the old designs by a long shot.

Next you have to decide on software (slicer) to run it. I use IdeaMaker, TylerR uses Cura. There are more Cura users by a long shot. But its a personal thing. They are free so try both and see which one fits your personality and intellect. Cura for my brain was just hard for me to learn....I tried it first....for like two days.;)

Here's a couple of pictures of my 300x300 to give you and idea of the room it takes. I couldn't fit a bigger one in my chosen spot.

https://i.postimg.cc/ZqVzLWZ4/IMG-3449.jpg

And here's the 300 and the standard size collators on my drafting chair.....for size comparison:

https://i.postimg.cc/Hn12w0QX/IMG_4005.jpg

[tt365]

Thanks @tt365

Closest I could find locally was a JGY370, but in 12.8kg/cm and 6RPM… would that suffice?

I could probably edit the mesh files to handle the other if needed

Edit:

I actually found a 10rpm JGY-370 with 5.6kg/cm… surely that’ll do?



Either will work. I highly recommend a speed control, and often run mine on the lower end. And there are body files for it already in the project, so no need to modify the mesh, which is nice.

[tt365]

Any recommendations? I need to give the wife a make and model number soon so she can scratch me off her list.


I have a couple of them now... Lulzbot Mini is the first one I got. It's very nice, but too small for the collator body and plates. The other parts print great on it. The newer one I picked up is an Ender 3 S1 Plus. I think it's a good choice for new people as it is easy to set up, and comes with a bed leveling setup. It's not perfect, but none of them are. In my previous posts on this thread I linked to a modified bracket for the leveling probe that helps a lot. It's not required, but it does make the auto level more accurate, and the first layer is critical. It's able to print the 300 size without issues, so it should do most things you might want to run. Whatever you get, make sure to take the time to level the bed as close as you can, and carefully set the Z-offset (the distance between the probe trigger and the nozzle). It takes some experimentation to get it dialed in.

There are a huge number of options out there now. Most of them are clones of each other and "steal" the best ideas from each other. I would suggest sticking to known and popular brands. Not so much because they are better, they are about the same most of the time, but because people will be more likely to be able to help you out if you get stuck.

[GWS]

tt365 gave you good ideas to think about.....I'll give you one more. Probably the worst problem with my experience learning to 3dprint, was prints lifting. So then you search the internet for ways to make it stick better, and you get the masking tape fix, the glue stick fix, the proprietary sticky spray can fix......what a royal pain in the ass. The factory beds work for a very little while...then things start lifting.

TylerR found the magic bullet for the problem and shared it here. And I tried it, and all the lifting problems were history. And that's a polypropylene bed cover. Buy one and wipe it before every print with alcohol. That's it. The following link is for my size bed, but click on the company and you'll find any size you need. https://www.amazon.com/3103103mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JC9LQTY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mamorubot&qid=1635802575&sr=8-1

Scuff it when you take delivery with a sheet of 220 grit sand paper then just put it over your existing factory glass bed, and clamp it with paper clamps. Then enjoy trouble free printing.....my best heat settings for such trouble-free prints, using PLA, PLA+, and PLA silks, with my Creality is 215C at the nozzle, and 65C bed temperature.

The next picture shows the 300 base on my polypropylene bed and you can see the paper clamps used to hold it down:

https://i.postimg.cc/G3WQKSY4/IMG_3951.jpg

And you can also see TH3d's zero moving parts bed leveler hanging to the right of the nozzle box.

[TylerR]

Hi - I am planning to print the main body wall extender in the orientation shown in the manual. Even if I set supports to 70 degrees there is a bit showing as needing supports. Looking for confirmation this prints okay without supports before jumping in to a 9.5 hour print. I am using an Ender 5 with Overture PLA Plus. Thanks

I go with this when I print them.

307172

[hporter]

GWS and tt365, thank you for taking the time with your detailed responses to my question.

I almost bought one last Christmas, as this thread has interested me for a long time. I originally wanted a printer to make film back parts for my large format cameras. But then I saw all the neat stuff you guys are making on this forum.

I just need to jump in and get started. Hesitating only prolongs the wait to satisfying my curiosity. I will look at the Ender machine and probably pull the trigger. There is a lot to learn with the modeling software, the slicer software, and the different materials available to print with. If I end up needing a bigger machine, I can always buy a bigger one down the road. At least by getting my feet wet, I will better understand what I need in the future.

And thank you for the tips on the bed cover and the auto-leveling.

[r4ndy]

I go with this when I print them.

307172

Thanks Tyler, I started printing it oriented like in the manual before seeing your post, go figure… Print came out okay without supports; needs a little sanding at the apex, but considering what it is used for I am happy enough with the results.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221124/fcd1c00e81b8136ac97c9321d62f3fa5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221124/59dfa8b290fe288199b134ec0141ee84.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221124/959242afcf2a09054de09be200f613ee.jpg

[sierra1911]

GWS and tt365, thank you for taking the time with your detailed responses to my question.

I almost bought one last Christmas, as this thread has interested me for a long time. I originally wanted a printer to make film back parts for my large format cameras. But then I saw all the neat stuff you guys are making on this forum.

I just need to jump in and get started. Hesitating only prolongs the wait to satisfying my curiosity. I will look at the Ender machine and probably pull the trigger. There is a lot to learn with the modeling software, the slicer software, and the different materials available to print with. If I end up needing a bigger machine, I can always buy a bigger one down the road. At least by getting my feet wet, I will better understand what I need in the future.

And thank you for the tips on the bed cover and the auto-leveling.

If you haven't ordered a printer yet, you might also want to consider the Prusa i3 MK3S+. I purchased one a year ago and have been very happy. It's more expensive than the Enders and most others but comes with features such as mesh bed leveling included. I purchased it in kit form because it was cheaper ($750 instead of $1,050) and so I could learn about it during the assembly (which took 8 hours). The quality of the parts is excellent and the manual thorough and easy to understand; it's written in good American English, not some foreign language mix. It came with coated steel print bed sheets and no aftermarket ones have been necessary.

I chose the Prusa bacause I wanted the items which I printed to be my projects; I did not want the printer itself to be a project. My goal was to purchase a printer which worked without days or weeks of fiddling or installing add-ons or tweaking programming code to recognize addons. I did have one issue with warping early on but resolved that by undoing a modification to a slicer setting I had modified and by slightly reducing the temps for PLA (which I initially bought as I had read that it was easier to use and also because it was being used by TylerR and GWS for the bullet/case feeders).

I use PETG almost exclusively now as the Prusa slicer is dialed in for it. Prusa 3D prints many of the parts for their printers with their Prusament brand PETG filament. Their print farm consists of over 600 printers. While their Prusament filament is expensive (partially due to shipping), I've found the Overture PETG to work as well as the Prusament brand with no changes to the slicer settings. The Overture PETG is available on Amazon for just over $20 a spool.

The Prusa will be more expensive than others, but in my experience, has been hassle-free from day one. They are having a Black Friday sale thru Monday with free shipping and some extras such as filament and an additional, different texture, steel print sheet. I bought mine during last year's Black Friday sale.

sierra1911

[hporter]

Sierra 1911, I appreciate the additional advice/feedback.

I looked at the Ender 3 in it's various versions on Amazon - the Plus -the Pro and then they both can come with various "upgrades" that to someone walking into 3D printing for the first time can be quite confusing as to their actual value.

My wife was asking me what do you feed these things. She was thinking since they were a printer - it must be some kind of ink. So I tried explaining to her - with my limited knowledge - about the different materials available and I showed her what a filament spool looked like and showed her a video of how they work.

I understand your point of buying more than the basic unit that you will have to fiddle with to get it going. But fiddling with it does interest me. I am the guy who bought Lee progressives, fiddled with them until they ran - and then bought Dillons to replace them. I like the learning experience, which admittedly can be very frustrating at times. The buy once, cry once philosophy does make a lot of sense. But there is a reason my father always referred to me as a knucklehead.

I plan to watch a few more Youtube videos. They help sort some of the questions in my head for me. I found a few channels that I have been watching off and on for a few years that seem to give out sensible advice on current models available. Just re-reading this thread from time to time provides a lot of good information. The guys actually hitting the print button and making things like I hope to make, have the best feedback in my opinion. So I am thankful for you taking the time to explain your path and how and why you decided to proceed with your setup.

One other question I forgot to ask is how temperature sensitive are these things when printing? Here in Houston we have to cool the house most of the year. In my reloading room (which is our son's old bedroom - so it's in the house and air conditioned) I have space in front of a window that it could permanently reside. But I see a lot of videos where people have them sitting in an enclosure. I just figured they had them out in the garage in a cold climate? I know getting and keeping them level seems to be important, so my alternate locations for putting it may require me to move it out of the way from time to time - or move it into location when I want to print. GWS showed a nice cabinet that he has his sitting on. Has anyone bought a small table for their printer to permanently reside on? I am assuming it would have to be rock stable and have no tendency to move or shake at all.

[r4ndy]

Cold air/drafts can affect printing. I had occasional issues with bigger prints lifting due to drafts in the basement. I bought the Ender enclosure and have not had an issue since. Many people use an IKEA lack table or similar for a stand for their printer. For smaller printer like the Ender 3 you can stack a second one and make an enclosure.

As far as printers go, I started on an Anet A8, IMO it is the Lee Pro of printers, it required constant fiddling and lots of mods to make safe and somewhat consistent. I got tired of fiddling with it and bought an Ender 5 which did require a few printed parts to get dialed in and stable, but has been a workhorse ever since.

[SuperMoose]

Edited (I'm an idiot, feeder works fine).

[tt365]

Even the cheap printers like the older Enders work decently out of the box. There's nearly always some tinkering required, usually not as much with the hardware, but the slicing settings for particular filament often need small adjustments. The biggest thing on the printer you need to adjust and keep set right is bed leveling and Z offset. They usually come close, but every setup needs little adjustments. Even my Lulzbot needed some tweaks to Z offset to get it set the best for my setup. There are calibration guides and videos that can help understand those things. Before printing something as big as the collator body, you should get your printer dialed in.

One thing to note, bed level doesn't refer to gravity. It's what everyone calls it, but it's really more about making sure the bed is perpendicular to the Z axis and in line with the X/Y plane. The idea is that you want any X/Y nozzle location to be the exact same distance from the bed. In reality, that doesn't happen of course, but you want it as close as you can. 0.1mm is a big difference here. It's easier than it sounds, but it's something to be aware of. Just don't break out a machinist level or something, you'll drive yourself nuts for no reason. :)

The table moving or vibrating does matter, but less than you might think. The biggest problem is that you are likely to get artifacts in the print, it's usually called ghosting or ringing. I wouldn't try anything too rickety, but some movement is acceptable with some quality loss in the looks of the print.

For large prints and some kinds of filaments, enclosures are helpful. I also have one of the Creality ender enclosures and it works great. It's basically a tent, but keeps drafts off the print well. The temperature of the room matters, but it's more about changes and drafts than anything else. The enclosures also tend to trap heat from the printer, so it will have a nice warm area pretty quickly. My enclosure is just on the floor in a finished basement with the Ender and a filament dry box in it. The Lulzbot has no enclosure, but print volume is small enough that unless I'm using something that really wants to warp, it's not a problem.

[calgarysparky]

OK, tried a search and ya.... So I am using a lee bullet feeder(don't judge, lol) and i want to attach the switch tube(A1) to the top of it. Is one of the adapter tubes already set for this? So far this project is going great.

[tt365]

OK, tried a search and ya.... So I am using a lee bullet feeder(don't judge, lol) and i want to attach the switch tube(A1) to the top of it. Is one of the adapter tubes already set for this? So far this project is going great.


I suspect the switch drop tube is the same as the proximity version on the bottom. I use the APP tube adapter (APP_Drop_Tube_X_Adapter) 3/4 fits the large clear tubes that come with the Lee feeders. The other side fits the bottom of the drop tubes. I imagine the small tubes will fit one of the other sizes, but I haven't tried it. So I just cut about 2" off the end of one and used it as an adapter between the drop tube and the APP case feeder tubes. I'm using it on the case side, but looking at the bullet feeder parts, I think it would work the same way.

[rsltid13]

I haven't had any issues printing any of the parts but I can't for the life of me get the 223 insert to complete a print, closest I've come is half way, but it always ends up falling over usually within the first inch. I've tried all of the adhesion options and had better success with a raft but never been able to make it through after 6 or so prints, even tried flipping it upside down to see if that printed better but no luck. Any tips. Printing on an Ender 3 S1 Pro, with Hatchbox Pla.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[tt365]

I haven't had any issues printing any of the parts but I can't for the life of me get the 223 insert to complete a print, closest I've come is half way, but it always ends up falling over usually within the first inch. I've tried all of the adhesion options and had better success with a raft but never been able to make it through after 6 or so prints, even tried flipping it upside down to see if that printed better but no luck. Any tips. Printing on an Ender 3 S1 Pro, with Hatchbox Pla.


If you haven't done it yet, calibrate the printer. One good place to start is here: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Within an inch would be pretty fast. How does the first layer look when you look at the bottom of the part? There isn't a lot of material touching the bed, so it can be tricky.

If you can see the lines on the bottom layer, try lowering your Z-offset a little. It looks like the Pro might come with the textured PEI plate, which hides the lines but can be tricky to set the offset on as a result. Drop it down by 0.1mm max at a time, and watch the first layer carefully to ensure the nozzle doesn't drag. One trick is to print a skirt and cancel. Then measure the thickness of the skirt with calipers or a micrometer. It should be the first layer height. If not, adjust until it is.

Try increasing the first layer height. I find 0.3mm works well for me on an S1 plus.

Add a large brim, 10mm or so. First layer only should do fine.

I haven't tried hatchbox, but don't be afraid to tinker with temperature. Perhaps increase bed temp a little. I usually run PLA at about 60C.

The fact that you had a problem even with a raft makes me suspect Z-offset.

[rsltid13]

Thanks for the advice, I'll play around with it some more and see if I can figure it out. I went through all the calibrations and haven't had any other issues, but I'll try your suggestions and see if I have better luck

[kc10kevin]

Did my due diligence and searched the thread for the answer. Really didn't find it. Before I go and spend a bunch of time printing bullet and slide plate, hoping someone can save me some time. I see that #11 bullet plate is recommended for 300BO bullets, but reading up, it appears its more for long bullets. I'm going to be loading mostly 110, 125 and 150 grain supers which are much shorter. Will the #11 work or is there a better plate/slide plate that works better for them. Starting with 150gn Hornady BT (See pic).

Thanks in advance for your time.

307492

307493

307494

[GWS]

I tried these four for .308 and they all worked great in the #11. I really like that plate.

307499

[kc10kevin]

I tried these four for .308 and they all worked great in the #11. I really like that plate.

Awesome! Thanks for the info. I'll print up the plate and give it a whirl.

[ranger391xt]

I haven't had any issues printing any of the parts but I can't for the life of me get the 223 insert to complete a print, closest I've come is half way, but it always ends up falling over usually within the first inch. I've tried all of the adhesion options and had better success with a raft but never been able to make it through after 6 or so prints, even tried flipping it upside down to see if that printed better but no luck. Any tips. Printing on an Ender 3 S1 Pro, with Hatchbox Pla.

Sent from my SM-G996U using TapatalkI mistakenly got roll of hatchbox PPLA, thinking it was PLA, and fought with adhesion issues. I thought was like most other PLA+ or ProPLA from other manufacturers, but it was vastly different. Turns out you have to print that stuff on painters tape with no bed heat at all.

So just to double check you are using the Hatchbox PLA that comes in the white box with the green bar bar across the lid?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

I just printed a 223 insert today to see if I'd have any trouble.....nope.

I printed with a polypropylene bed set at 65 C with green satin Zyltec PLA at 215 C. using .120mm layer height and only a skirt on the bed.

https://i.postimg.cc/nzPTYPZS/IMG-4134.jpg

Polypropylene is wonderful for a 3D printer bed....no brims no rafts no glue no tape.....just good prints. When it cools the parts come loose just fine and not before unless you want to knock it hard at the bottom with a chisel.

[tt365]

Hmm... I missed that #11 collator plate. I used the large rifle #4 with with the #11 slider plate and it worked well for 308, but it looks like that long #11 might be an improvement, guess I need to print one up and try it.

That feed insert with no brim is making me want to try that bed. Because I haven't messed with my setup enough yet. :)

[GWS]

I got the rest of it printed today.....I no longer try to print the shell and insert together....I get MUCH better prints when the printhead isn't dragging filament from one to the other.
https://i.postimg.cc/nr3z9wWd/IMG-4140.jpg

A final touch-up with white paint marker and paint thinner, add the ball bearings and springs and Lee die nut.....

https://i.postimg.cc/ncLMfpsN/IMG-4142.jpg

[kc10kevin]

Hmm... I missed that #11 collator plate. I used the large rifle #4 with with the #11 slider plate and it worked well for 308, but it looks like that long #11 might be an improvement, guess I need to print one up and try it.

That feed insert with no brim is making me want to try that bed. Because I haven't messed with my setup enough yet. :)

Yep. Printed up the #11 plate and it works perfectly for the 150gn. Couldn't be happier.

[M500]

TylerR, I see that the speed controller link in the manual now links to a different style controller. Is this the controller you want to continue to recommend? Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XQ22F47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[GWS]

TylerR hasn't answered yet....I don't know what he gravitated to, but I can tell you what I have gravitated to. I've used 2 of those little ones and one quit.....so 50% for me. So I went looking for a little more quality without too much cost increase.

Best way for you to have a look-see is to download a zip of mine in Tyler's download under "Contributors" And find my "contribution". ;) (GWS)

Then unzip it on your computer and download the last 4 files including the Word file at the bottom which contains links to my Amazon sources of electronics. The other files are .stls of the box I like, including its mount that mounts to the pairs of holes on the bottom of TylerR's collator bases. Also listed is the relay we like to use....TylerR's find.

Looks like this in Tyler's downloads (this is just a screen shot...not linkable):

https://i.postimg.cc/wTGQ6kX9/Screenshot-2022-12-04-192021.jpg

below are 2 pictures of the box mounted to a 3000 collator base. For me it works extremely well.

https://i.postimg.cc/qvk36z4y/IMG_3975.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/021mxV4t/IMG_3978.jpg

TylerR might just post his own preferences tomorrow.....Then you will have two systems to choose from...;)

Might as well give you the direct link to the speed control spec'd in the above:

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-12V-40V-Controller-Switch-Module/dp/B00QVONO20/ref=rvi_sccl_2/141-8288027-2205025?pd_rd_w=DoYaB&content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=GHVWP0YXY2A0W3AQYNB8&pd_rd_wg=jT3Nm&pd_rd_r=2619c066-46d0-4aa4-a39f-588c40ca6236&pd_rd_i=B00QVONO20&psc=1

[M500]

[QUOTE=GWS;5496544]
TylerR might just post his own preferences tomorrow.....Then you will have two systems to choose from...;)


Thank you GWS for your reply. That looks like a good unit. I'm not looking to buy any at the moment. I'm working on a project and was asking more so to be consistent with the manual.

[GWS]

I'm not sure the manual is up to date with motors....would be surprised. But TylerR will tell us. The speed control that quit me didn't have a relay....that was before he brought up the relay thing.....so maybe that was why. Hopefully he'll come and see us tomorrow....he tends to stay away from here on weekends.;)

[tt365]

I'm using the little speed controller. I bought a pack before discovering this forum. I have 2 in use, both with the relays, and they have been running fine, even with jams. Though I do use the clutch system, si it shouldn't lock up the motor.

[M500]

These are the ones I have. The older manuals link to it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QIFA79K/


Edit: I see these ship from china. The one you posted and the one in the current manual ship from amazon. Might be why it was changed.

[calgarysparky]

Hi Again.

So is the drop tube with the switch supposed to sit directly on top of the bullet seating die? Reason I ask is that either the drop tube is too small or the bullet die top is to big. They won't slide together. Sanding? Or am I missing an adapter tube that I am unaware of. This is for 9mm. Thanks!

[M500]

Drop tube parts A-1 or B-1 should fit directly on top of feed die part A.

[M500]

GWS, thanks for the reference to your controller. That one and the old ones have the same connections, so all is well.



OK, how do I pm TylerR a zip file?

[GWS]

Never could do that, but you can pin it into a regular post:

1. Put any files you want him to get in a folder.
2. Open the folder.....click "share" then highlight the files you want in the zip.
3. Click the menu item "Zip", while in that folder with the files highlighted.....name it.....it will add the zip file in that same folder.
4. go to your post, click "Advanced", scroll down to "Attachments" and click on "manage attachments".
5. Add files
6. Browse (find the folder and zip file on your computer)....Open.
7. Highlight the zip file newly displayed on the menu of attachments.....select it by checkmark
8. Insert Inline.....click "Done"

Keep in mind, there is a size limit....may take more than one. If you figure out how to do it in a P.M. share.....Tyler figured out how to share his whole life in the special program he uses.....I know NOTHING about that one. ;)

[M500]

I see now. Thanks. Will need to do this in steps. 3MB max file size.

[M500]

TylerR, Here are some files for you. See accompanying PM. Thanks

[TylerR]

Sorry for the delayed reply guys. Life has been coming hard and fast these day, with little free time.

To answer the original question about speed controllers, I do have three feeders with the smaller one listed in the manual and have not had any issues with them at all so far. GWS was the one who first posted a link to them, and it sounds like his experience is not 100%. I have also used the speed controller M500 posted. That was the original one I found when building my first collator. It's possible it is higher quality, but it is a much larger form factor. Not an issue if using one of the larger control boxes. The one GWS is using now also seems like a solid option.

M500, Thank you for the PM, especially the personal note. I appreciate that very much. It sounds like you did some solid work there. I downloaded the files and will take a look at them as soon as I can.

calgarysparky, it sounds like a printer calibration issue to me. As M500 said, the parts are designed to fit snugly. If they require excessive sanding to fit then something else is going on.

I would like to personally thank GWS for all of his contributions to this project and this thread. He goes way out of his way to answer questions with very detailed and knowledgeable responses, way better than I do to be honest. I hope everyone appreciates what a valuable resource he is here.

[M500]

A big thank you to both TylerR and GWS. Well done guys. :drinks:

[rsp111]

308001

May need tweaking, my first attempt at this, not printed or tested yet

[TylerR]

308001

May need tweaking, my first attempt at this, not printed or tested yet

I like this. I added "$fn=100;" to smooth it out a little. Can you clarify exactly how these two params should be used?
ShoulderHeight = 39.62;
ShoulderWidth = 11.53;

[GWS]

Hmmm......so this might be a way to make quick custom case inserts for the APP.....like Ammo Mike created to make custom collator plates? Interesting!

[rsp111]

I like this. I added "$fn=100;" to smooth it out a little. Can you clarify exactly how these two params should be used?
ShoulderHeight = 39.62;
ShoulderWidth = 11.53;

Well, It was meant to use the sammi drawing dimensions. ShoulderHeight would be from base to the start of the taper, and shoulderwidth would be the diameter at that point. I used mm as a reference. I based the defaults on the 308 case. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Cartridge_308.PNG

Like I said, it may not be perfect and require tweaks. This is my first attempt at OpenSCAD. I used the original 308 brass insert as a reference. I wanted a insert for 284 winchester and one for 6.5 prc. The 284 will work with the original feed tube size, but the 6.5 prc will need a larger tube.