Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

Hatch,

The only thing to watch out for is the grooves in that section that the plates slide in to. The tolerances there are fairly tight, so the plate slides in but doesn't flop around.

[Fil131]

For 223 I tried using the main body adaptor with the smallest hole and the section cut in the middle but the bullets kept getting caught up on the top flat area along the outer edge so I sawed off one side and shaped the round with an exacto and it falls a lot better.
269481
269482

[GWS]

This is my ruined base about a 1/16" thick.
https://i.postimg.cc/RVGtX4pM/IMG-3603.jpg
This is the warped corner I'm going to dip in the water....
https://i.postimg.cc/MpTQLNg1/IMG-3604.jpg

filled a pot with water....boiling.....dipped the corner in and it immediately softened and drooped, but didn't melt. Placed it on the counter, immediately pressed a heavy flat surface to it. Result below:

https://i.postimg.cc/MKzR7vDP/IMG-3607.jpg

Works, but to a point.....it appears that the stuff has a memory, so it flattened well, but it's only 1/16" thick. I don't know how a tall piece would work.....probably ruin it. Putting something on top to hold it down would just as easily deform stuff that is above the warp. On your complicated piece ...... I wouldn't, but on the other hand, if you were to be able to control the dip, and only dip only the bottom, maybe the top wouldn't be affected by weight on it. I'd probably try that, but I didn't wait 5 days for a print, either.

[Fil131]

How do you guys use set screws to adjust the flipper plates?

[TylerR]

For 223 I tried using the main body adaptor with the smallest hole and the section cut in the middle but the bullets kept getting caught up on the top flat area along the outer edge so I sawed off one side and shaped the round with an exacto and it falls a lot better.


I appreciate that feedback. I have not done any testing with smaller bullets like .223 yet. That part is actually a carry over from the mods version of Mike's original feeder. I have not modified it in any way. I was never really sure why he designed it the way he did with the notch. Once I get done with base up case feeding I will do some testing with .223 and .308 caliber bullets, and will most likely make changes to that part.

[TylerR]

How do you guys use set screws to adjust the flipper plates?

There is a hole in the back of the plate. You can adjust the position of the plate by putting a screw in and experimenting where the plate should be to get the bullets turning reliably. So for .223 you would start with the small pistol turning plate, insert the screw and adjust it to where it needs to be to get it working. Once you have it set for that bullet you shouldn't have to ever adjust it again.

Once I get to it, I will create a small and large rifle plate that hopefully will handle the more common calibers.

Edited to add more detail:

When adjusting the plate, you are setting the distance between the collator plate and the ridge on the turning/slide plate. You want just enough ridge exposed to allow base down bullets to ride the ridge, and nose down to fall off the ridge. The smaller the caliber the further out the ridge needs to be. Here is a screen shot from my CAD to show the ridge distance marked by the blue line:

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[Fil131]

There is a hole in the back of the plate. You can adjust the position of the plate by putting a screw in and experimenting where the plate should be to get the bullets turning reliably. So for .223 you would start with the small pistol turning plate, insert the screw and adjust it to where it needs to be to get it working. Once you have it set for that bullet you shouldn't have to ever adjust it again.

Once I get to it, I will create a small and large rifle plate that hopefully will handle the more common calibers.

Edited to add more detail:

When adjusting the plate, you are setting the distance between the collator plate and the ridge on the turning/slide plate. You want just enough ridge exposed to allow base down bullets to ride the ridge, and nose down to fall off the ridge. The smaller the caliber the further out the ridge needs to be. Here is a screen shot from my CAD to show the ridge distance marked by the blue line:

269483

Guess I need to print more turning/slide plates. I was attempting to use the two and have a way to move them for different calibers but that's more tedious than making more and having a set screw for each one set to the bullet and caliber I'm loading.

[TylerR]

Guess I need to print more turning/slide plates. I was attempting to use the two and have a way to move them for different calibers but that's more tedious than making more and having a set screw for each one set to the bullet and caliber I'm loading.

Yes. What I am attempting to do is cover most common pistol and rifle calibers with a "Small" and a "Large" for each. So basically 4 setups. That is what Dillon does for their brass collator. Two pistol plates and two rifle plates.

[JSATX]

Amazon special arrived. Appears to be a solid unit. Time will tell I suppose.

269490

[TylerR]

Amazon special arrived. Appears to be a solid unit. Time will tell I suppose.

269490

I did design a base around the schematic for that motor. Couple of issue I ran in to. The motor is long enough where it will interfere with the mounts I have for the feeder. That was also true for the FC555 motor, but I was able to create holes to allow you to mount it in 3 different directions. With the motor you have, I can not do that because the mounting holes align in a way where they partially overlap if you change the orientation 90 degrees. So not sure where to go with that. Currently I have it where the mount would interfere with a rear mount, which would allow a mount to the side.

[JSATX]

I did design a base around the schematic for that motor. Couple of issue I ran in to. The motor is long enough where it will interfere with the mounts I have for the feeder. That was also true for the FC555 motor, but I was able to create holes to allow you to mount it in 3 different directions. With the motor you have, I can not do that because the mounting holes align in a way where they partially overlap if you change the orientation 90 degrees. So not sure where to go with that. Currently I have it where the mount would interfere with a rear mount, which would allow a mount to the side.

I’m happy to try whatever you have. I wanted to hang it on my Dillon case feeder anyway, in fact that’s what’s on the printer now. That would work on the side right?

[Rcmaveric]

Wow this thread has grown since I lasted logged in 1500 odd post. I got some reading to do. On the bright side I finnal got my case and bullet feeder working reliably on my load master.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I’m happy to try whatever you have. I wanted to hang it on my Dillon case feeder anyway, in fact that’s what’s on the printer now. That would work on the side right?

Cool, yes it would. I just posted a stl "motortest.stl" that you can print to confirm the hole spacing, before you try and print the whole base. Let me know how it goes.

[GWS]

TylerR: This is an xray of the .223 downtube I designed today.....it goes through the tee and into the upper part creating a funnel before it gets to the sensor, and offsets the center toward the sensor as it passes. Have not tried it yet but I may have to transition more at the angle.....probably depends how long your bullet is..........concept anyway.

Sending you the STL to examine.

https://i.postimg.cc/bvnKyLsd/223-downtube.png

[TylerR]

TylerR: This is an xray of the .223 downtube I designed today.....it goes through the tee and into the upper part creating a funnel before it gets to the sensor, and offsets the center toward the sensor as it passes. Have tried it yet but I may have to transition more at the angle.....probably depends how long your bullet is..........concept anyway.

Sending you the STL to examine.

I like it. I bet creating that offset tube inside was fun in 3d cad. That one would take me a bit to get right. :)

[GWS]

If it gives trouble at the angles, I can create a slightly curved polyline and sweep the circle down it......I was just lazy today and thought it might just be fine the way it is.

I didn't add threads at the bottom, because I don't have any springs that small....just tubing. But we can add that if I have some spring thread specs. What I did add at the bottom was a 15mm high inlet to stuff a 1/4" O.D. clear tube up there.

May print one tonight and see if it works, ok. I'll be printing the jumbo size base soon for rifle cases for my PC7 press.

[JSATX]

Cool, yes it would. I just posted a stl "motortest.stl" that you can print to confirm the hole spacing, before you try and print the whole base. Let me know how it goes.

Tyler, the four mounting screw holes line up perfectly, but the center motor shaft hole is too small. Since the motor has a fairly short shaft that hole needs to be opened to .75

269498
269497

[TylerR]

Tyler, the four mounting screw holes line up perfectly, but the center motor shaft hole is too small. Since the motor has a fairly short shaft that hole needs to be opened to .75


I wasn't aware that area was raised. Looking back at the schematic it is 19mm diameter. I will open it up to 20mm. It has been posted.

[JSATX]

I wasn't aware that area was raised. Looking back at the schematic it is 19mm diameter. I will open it up to 20mm. It has been posted.

You are a gentleman and a scholar. I shall report back in 48 (!!) hours.

[TylerR]

You are a gentleman and a scholar. I shall report back in 48 (!!) hours.

Cheers! And good luck with the print! :)

[Fil131]

You are a gentleman and a scholar. I shall report back in 48 (!!) hours.

I'm so glad my prints never take that long, not sure if I'd like 3D printing at all if they did.

[GWS]

TylerR: The print of the .223 downtube was all I could ask for. Pretty close to Perfect.....

I made a short video to show you...but I should explain what you're looking at:

First, as I told you I didn't make it with threads for a spring....I don't have one that size. What I do have is RCBS's new tube bullet feeder with it's black graphite tube. I printed the tube inset for that! I like to see the stack, but though the tube is super strong, it's opaque, so I set up a Dremel in a jig and cut a slot lengthwise so I could see the bullet stack. So before I tested this new downtube for the proximity sensor, I filled up said tube, so I wouldn't have to drop so many bullets to fill the stack to the switch point and bore you all with repetition.

The down tube has a directional nub I painted white that has to face the sensor since the .223 bullet path inside had to be angled off center to the sensor side, and back to the center to drop out below. The bullets are so small, they have to be closer than large bullets to be picked up.


https://youtu.be/INL8o7uZUUA
At the end of the video, I let a bullet from the bottom fall so it would start up again....dropped one more bullet....it stopped again. Yes!

Now I need to print a wheel and plate to feed them.....cart before the horse....I know.....but that's okay.

I'll show the Autocad 3d drawing once more, so people can see the design, who didn't notice it in a previous post, that it's designed so that only the downtube has to be changed when caliber is changed.....I leave the sensor setup alone.

https://i.postimg.cc/bvnKyLsd/223-downtube.png

[TylerR]

GWS, don't you just love it when a plan comes together? :)

I had a major breakthrough in my base up case feeding last night. It is just about ready for primetime.

[lablover]

GWS, don't you just love it when a plan comes together? :)

I had a major breakthrough in my case up base feeding last night. It is just about ready for primetime.

Wooohoooo. Look forward to seeing it

[GWS]

All ears! This is for .40 bulge busting on an APP? right?

[lablover]

All ears! This is for .40 bulge busting on an APP? right?

I think .45 acp. Knowing Tyler every pistol caliber. Lol

[TylerR]

Yes, this is for all four pistol calibers I have been working on. .45, .40, 9mm, .380

[TylerR]

OK so here is a little preview. I have been working on this project for about 6 weeks now, and can honestly say it was testing my patience. Certain parts I have printed in excess of 30 times getting it right. There were a lot of challenges that needed to be solved. I had most everything worked out pretty well, but would still get occasional cases jamming in the drop hole. After trying out about 10 different "fixes", I finally found one that actually works. Its funny because it is such a minor change to the part but is absolutely necessary for reliability.

First off, here is a photo to show the angle needed for reliable feeding. It is definitely steeper then for bullets. I would call it around 50-60%. Running it too shallow causes the most issues, but it can't be too steep either.

269542

And some video of .45 brass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6rTYyUGJFY

[Fil131]

The hex plates are sometimes jamming up on the hex adapter on the motor, must be from a little slack. I haven't had any detrimental issues yet(except previously when a allen screw backed out locking the plate in and forcing the collator plate off, broke the bottom portion of plate which is why I used loctite and highly recommend it to anyone going this route) but it makes removing the plate difficult sometimes. Either minor adjustments will need to be made to the sizing of the hex opening or bigger hex adaptors so there is more sidewall or just go with the tried and true drill and roll pin.

Anyone else using hex plates have any of these issues?

[TylerR]

The hex plates are sometimes jamming up on the hex adapter on the motor, must be from a little slack. I haven't had any detrimental issues yet(except previously when a allen screw backed out locking the plate in and forcing the collator plate off, broke the bottom portion of plate which is why I used loctite and highly recommend it to anyone going this route) but it makes removing the plate difficult sometimes. Either minor adjustments will need to be made to the sizing of the hex opening or bigger hex adaptors so there is more sidewall or just go with the tried and true drill and roll pin.

Anyone else using hex plates have any of these issues?

How much play is there? When I asked about the fit last time someone said it was a little tight on two of the plates they printed, and just right on another.

The size is a configurable setting in the collator plate generator.

[Fil131]

OK so here is a little preview. I have been working on this project for about 6 weeks now, and can honestly say it was testing my patience. Certain parts I have printed in excess of 30 times getting it right. There were a lot of challenges that needed to be solved. I had most everything worked out pretty well, but would still get occasional cases jamming in the drop hole. After trying out about 10 different "fixes", I finally found one that actually works. Its funny because it is such a minor change to the part but is absolutely necessary for reliability.

First off, here is a photo to show the angle needed for reliable feeding. It is definitely steeper then for bullets. I would call it around 50-60%. Running it too shallow causes the most issues, but it can't be too steep either.

269542

And some video of .45 brass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6rTYyUGJFY

Awesome Tyler, can't wait till you work on rifle bullet feeding(base down) as well as printed feed dies. If its going to be a while I will buy them from DAA as i suck at fusion and OpenSCAD. I don't know why I can't get things to model the way I want them to.

Can you share editable turning/slide plates? I'd like to try and play with those to attempt to make it work with FNFB projectiles. I have no issues with RN projectiles currently, as well as 223REM but haven't tried all of my projectiles yet as i don't have any of this mounted to anything to do real tests at a set angle.

Oh also I tried some light 90gn, 380Auto projectiles on the 9mm plate and they were fitting sideways in the plate with the base or nose rubbing along the wall of the housing, did not seem to happen with 100 grainers though, is there a way to adjust the depth of the openings for these smaller bullets?

[Fil131]

How much play is there? When I asked about the fit last time someone said it was a little tight on two of the plates they printed, and just right on another.

The size is a configurable setting in the collator plate generator.


Both comments may have been mine, one was measuring with calipers and it seemed they wouldn't fit, then when I had the hex connectors on hand I placed them in and they seemed to be perfect. After doing some small runs though unfortunately they do seem to rotate partially around the connector with the stop/go of the flipper putting stress on the rotation.


https://youtu.be/7Gxkek7zhls

[lablover]

OK so here is a little preview. I have been working on this project for about 6 weeks now, and can honestly say it was testing my patience. Certain parts I have printed in excess of 30 times getting it right. There were a lot of challenges that needed to be solved. I had most everything worked out pretty well, but would still get occasional cases jamming in the drop hole. After trying out about 10 different "fixes", I finally found one that actually works. Its funny because it is such a minor change to the part but is absolutely necessary for reliability.

First off, here is a photo to show the angle needed for reliable feeding. It is definitely steeper then for bullets. I would call it around 50-60%. Running it too shallow causes the most issues, but it can't be too steep either.

269542

And some video of .45 brass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6rTYyUGJFY

Wow, this is so cool. Is there updated files? Man that looks like it’s working perfect! Well done sir

[lablover]

The hex plates are sometimes jamming up on the hex adapter on the motor, must be from a little slack. I haven't had any detrimental issues yet(except previously when a allen screw backed out locking the plate in and forcing the collator plate off, broke the bottom portion of plate which is why I used loctite and highly recommend it to anyone going this route) but it makes removing the plate difficult sometimes. Either minor adjustments will need to be made to the sizing of the hex opening or bigger hex adaptors so there is more sidewall or just go with the tried and true drill and roll pin.

Anyone else using hex plates have any of these issues?

I’m using the hex plate and have deprimed over 1k pieces of brass and not a single issue yet. The stock settings Tyler provides in the openscad file fits my adapter perfect. Not loose at all, fits like a nice snug glove.

[Fil131]

I’m using the hex plate and have deprimed over 1k pieces of brass and not a single issue yet. The stock settings Tyler provides in the openscad file fits my adapter perfect. Not loose at all, fits like a nice snug glove.

You've never had your collator plate get hung up on the hex adaptor? I added a video to my previous post of the play in the opening.

[HATCH]

printed the slide plates today,
looks like my opening is 1/16 inch too narrow. Looks like just under 3 inches.
This isn't measuring the groove but that flats of the opening.
Looks like its time to file

[Fil131]

printed the slide plates today,
looks like my opening is 1/16 inch too narrow. Looks like just under 3 inches.
This isn't measuring the groove but that flats of the opening.
Looks like its time to file

I feel for you, I know you'll get it solved, but if you lived closer I'd print a main body and slide plates for you. Hate to see print struggles especially after such a long print like yours. I wonder why they came out soo much different?

[TylerR]

Awesome Tyler, can't wait till you work on rifle bullet feeding(base down) as well as printed feed dies. If its going to be a while I will buy them from DAA as i suck at fusion and OpenSCAD. I don't know why I can't get things to model the way I want them to.

Can you share editable turning/slide plates? I'd like to try and play with those to attempt to make it work with FNFB projectiles. I have no issues with RN projectiles currently, as well as 223REM but haven't tried all of my projectiles yet as i don't have any of this mounted to anything to do real tests at a set angle.

Oh also I tried some light 90gn, 380Auto projectiles on the 9mm plate and they were fitting sideways in the plate with the base or nose rubbing along the wall of the housing, did not seem to happen with 100 grainers though, is there a way to adjust the depth of the openings for these smaller bullets?

I have no plans right now to replicate the actual dropper die that screws in to the press. Just taking a brief look at it, that is a pretty big project. Rifle bullets are next on my list.

I am willing to share the plates, but in what format? My options for exporting are limited.

You absolutely can adjust the diameter of the hole in the collator plates. That is what the generator is for. You can also adjust the size of the hex hole while you are in there. There are enough options to do pretty much anything you could want at this point.

[lablover]

You've never had your collator plate get hung up on the hex adaptor? I added a video to my previous post of the play in the opening.

Just watched it. No way I have that much play. Is that just in the plate? I couldn’t tell if the brass hex is moving too. For brass I remove the flipper arm completely. I made 2 complete kits one for brass and one for bullets so I don’t have to mess around with them.

[TylerR]

printed the slide plates today,
looks like my opening is 1/16 inch too narrow. Looks like just under 3 inches.
This isn't measuring the groove but that flats of the opening.
Looks like its time to file

I feared that may happen with that area lifting off the build plate. I have a strict policy to cancel any print where the first layers lift up. It just leads to issues down the road.

[TylerR]

I’m using the hex plate and have deprimed over 1k pieces of brass and not a single issue yet. The stock settings Tyler provides in the openscad file fits my adapter perfect. Not loose at all, fits like a nice snug glove.

Can you confirm for me that in your version of the generator it has 12.4 for the hex width?

hxw=12.4; // Hex Width


Also, aren't you guys using hex adapters from different sources on amazon? I seem to remember a few versions being posted. May be slight differences in the two.

[TylerR]

Just watched it. No way I have that much play. Is that just in the plate? I couldn’t tell if the brass hex is moving too. For brass I remove the flipper arm completely. I made 2 complete kits one for brass and one for bullets so I don’t have to mess around with them.

It is best to disable the flipper when running brass normally. It is a must when running brass base up. I have a simple part that is in the base up package that disables the flipper, which can be seen in the video I posted.

[lablover]

Can you confirm for me that in your version of the generator it has 12.4 for the hex width?

hxw=12.4; // Hex Width


Also, aren't you guys using hex adapters from different sources on amazon? I seem to remember a few versions being posted. May be slight differences in the two.

I think we are using different versions of the hex adapter.

I just confirmed, yes it says 12.4. However in the newest version in your last upload it shows 12.5. I printed my plate before that. Yes, I’ve saved every one of your uploads as different versions in case something was missed..yes,min have OCD! Lol

[TylerR]

I think we are using different versions of the hex adapter.

I just confirmed, yes it says 12.4. However in the newest version in your last upload it shows 12.5. I printed my plate before that. Yes, I’ve saved every one of your uploads as different versions in case something was missed..yes,min have OCD! Lol

I did change it to 12.5, based on the initial feedback. I am now changing it back to 12.4. LOL

[lablover]

I did change it to 12.5, based on the initial feedback. I am now changing it back to 12.4. LOL

Understand. However it is user adjustable but I understand your point. Got my filament dryer today. Plan to dry a roll and see if quality goes up. Tyler, where do we find files for the base up 45 acp stuff. Unless nothing has changed since your last upload.

[TylerR]

Understand. However it is user adjustable but I understand your point. Got my filament dryer today. Plan to dry a roll and see if quality goes up. Tyler, where do we find files for the base up 45 acp stuff. Unless nothing has changed since your last upload.

Have not posted them yet. Doing some final work with 9mm and 380 first. Should have an update posted tomorrow.

[lablover]

Have not posted them yet. Doing some final work with 9mm and 380 first. Should have an update posted tomorrow.

Look forward to it. Thank you

[gnafin]

Hey TylerR, if you can give it out... what is the hold pattern for the Drop_Hole_Adapter? i was going to remake it so i can use the DAA drop spring.

thanks.

[TylerR]

Hey TylerR, if you can give it out... what is the hold pattern for the Drop_Hole_Adapter? i was going to remake it so i can use the DAA drop spring.

thanks.

I may not be understanding. I have adapters for all three DAA springs.

[TylerR]

tried some light 90gn, 380Auto projectiles on the 9mm plate and they were fitting sideways in the plate with the base or nose rubbing along the wall of the housing, did not seem to happen with 100 grainers though, is there a way to adjust the depth of the openings for these smaller bullets?

I am curious, what is the height of those 90gn bullets in mm?

[HATCH]

I feared that may happen with that area lifting off the build plate. I have a strict policy to cancel any print where the first layers lift up. It just leads to issues down the road.

They didn’t lift up until I was a few hours in. Remember .06 layer height.
I was asleep when it happened and didn’t check it until the next day when I got off work.
It was a easy fix. I was able to use a soldering fun to reshape the slot and make a new groove.
Need to file the corners but the plate slides in and functions


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

They didn’t lift up until I was a few hours in. Remember .06 layer height.
I was asleep when it happened and didn’t check it until the next day when I got off work.
It was a easy fix. I was able to use a soldering fun to reshape the slot and make a new groove.
Need to file the corners but the plate slides in and functions


I am very glad to hear that. Would hate for it to be a bust after all that time.

[gnafin]

I may not be understanding. I have adapters for all three DAA springs.
i have the complete spring assembly. just thought i would give it a try.
269552

[TylerR]

i have the complete sprint assembly. just thought i would give it a try.

Which hole spacing are you looking for? The 4 holes used to screw the drop hole adapter to the body? If so they are equally spaced 34mm across from each other.

[Fil131]

I am curious, what is the height of those 90gn bullets in mm?

11.5mm was the shortest I found by doing a spot check

[lablover]

11.5mm was the shortest I found by doing a spot check


Man, I’m not looking forward to trying to run .32 acp bullets at all. Those are some small bullets. .314 dia and probably not much taller. I did a plate up in openscad but haven’t printed it yet. I’m curious on the height I should make the collater plate.

[Fil131]

Man, I’m not looking forward to trying to run .32 acp bullets at all. Those are some small bullets. .314 dia and probably not much taller. I did a plate up in openscad but haven’t printed it yet. I’m curious on the height I should make the collater plate.

I forget that we have the generator to play with thanks to Tyler. I'll have to try to make a dedicated 380 plate rather than a 9mm/380Auto plate.

[TylerR]

11.5mm was the shortest I found by doing a spot check

I measured the distance from the 9mm plate inside hole to the edge of the body and it is literally 11.579 mm. So I would make a 380 plate and set the caliber at 8.5 mm and it should probably work without even adjusting the slide plate. This is where all the fun is. Experimenting. :)

[Fil131]

I measured the distance from the 9mm plate inside hole to the edge of the body and it is literally 11.579 mm. So I would make a 380 plate and set the caliber at 8.5 mm and it should probably work without even adjusting the slide plate. This is where all the fun is. Experimenting. :)

Sweet, I'll give it a go.

[HATCH]

I am gonna try to use the collator for nose down sizing.

I have a entirely crimson collator that I need to assembly. Bought it for $100 a few years ago from someone.
I have two more but they are somewhere at my buddies shop in storage and got lost in the move


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Sweet, I'll give it a go.

These bullets that are basically as wide as they are long, or close to it definitely add to the challenge. There is a setting in the generator that adds a certain clearance to whatever is put in the caliber param. The default it 1.2 mm. So the 9mm plate is technically 10.2 mm. So at 8.5mm caliber you will actually be at 9.7mm. My point being there is some room to play with. You could probably set the caliber all the way down to 8mm and you will still have .2mm of clearance on that 380 bullet. Of course then the slide plate might potentially need to move out a tiny bit to compensate. Please don't take my word as gospel on what will actually work the best, because unless it is printed and tested its any ones guess.

bullet_caliber=caliber+1.2; //caliber in (mm) + 1.0 to 1.5 mm

[gnafin]

Which hole spacing are you looking for? The 4 holes used to screw the drop hole adapter to the body? If so they are equally spaced 34mm across from each other.

thats it. thank you.

[GWS]

Does anyone have the OD and ID of each of the DAA springtubes and what bullet calibers they work without feeding issues for?

And a question for TylerR: Do you use springtubes below your pistol case collator you are developing, or rigid tube?

[Fil131]

I’m using the hex plate and have deprimed over 1k pieces of brass and not a single issue yet. The stock settings Tyler provides in the openscad file fits my adapter perfect. Not loose at all, fits like a nice snug glove.


You've never had your collator plate get hung up on the hex adaptor? I added a video to my previous post of the play in the opening.


Just watched it. No way I have that much play. Is that just in the plate? I couldn’t tell if the brass hex is moving too. For brass I remove the flipper arm completely. I made 2 complete kits one for brass and one for bullets so I don’t have to mess around with them.


Can you confirm for me that in your version of the generator it has 12.4 for the hex width?

hxw=12.4; // Hex Width


Also, aren't you guys using hex adapters from different sources on amazon? I seem to remember a few versions being posted. May be slight differences in the two.


I think we are using different versions of the hex adapter.

I just confirmed, yes it says 12.4. However in the newest version in your last upload it shows 12.5. I printed my plate before that. Yes, I’ve saved every one of your uploads as different versions in case something was missed..yes,min have OCD! Lol


I did change it to 12.5, based on the initial feedback. I am now changing it back to 12.4. LOL

I made the 380Auto plate but haven't tested it running yet so I'll report my results tomorrow, but wanted to say that I took the hex down to 12.3 and it fits very nicely(not sure but I suspect 12.2 would need convincing or shaving), my other prints were 12.4 I verified them.

I'm not sure if that change is necessary for everyone but that's what I'll be using for mine from now on. I may if I print another plate try the 12.2 to see how it fits, maybe just print the base section to save filament with a few layers only to test it.

[TylerR]

Does anyone have the OD and ID of each of the DAA springtubes and what bullet calibers they work without feeding issues for?

And a question for TylerR: Do you use springtubes below your pistol case collator you are developing, or rigid tube?

I am measuring the 3 springs I have from DAA at 10.4mm, 13mm, and 13.5mm.

I use a spring to a drop tube, and then an adapter from the drop tube to the rigid tube Lee provides with the APP for both bullet sizing and case feeding.

269571

[GWS]

inside diameter or outside?

[TylerR]

inside diameter or outside?

Sorry that was ID. I missed the OD part. One second.....

OD (Roughly) 12.1mm, 15.1mm and 15.75mm

[TylerR]

I made the 380Auto plate but haven't tested it running yet so I'll report my results tomorrow, but wanted to say that I took the hex down to 12.3 and it fits very nicely(not sure but I suspect 12.2 would need convincing or shaving), my other prints were 12.4 I verified them.

I'm not sure if that change is necessary for everyone but that's what I'll be using for mine from now on. I may if I print another plate try the 12.2 to see how it fits, maybe just print the base section to save filament with a few layers only to test it.

Looking forward to your test results.

[Fil131]

Very cool. We will assume that has not changed, and Fil131 will be able to confirm that eventually. I am going to start with 6mm width and run a test.

My casefeeder finally came in. Mine is measuring around 5mm+/- but definitely not much over 5mm.

[TylerR]

My casefeeder finally came in. Mine is measuring around 5mm+/- but definitely not much over 5mm.

Nice. I wonder if anyone has printed that mount yet.

[Fil131]

Nice. I wonder if anyone has printed that mount yet.

I'll start it now, report after I guess my press assembled. Off to the hardware store for me.

You still have the files? I couldn't find them on your Google drive.

[TylerR]

I'll start it now, report after I guess my press assembled. Off to the hardware store for me.

You still have the files? I couldn't find them on your Google drive.

I took them down temporarily because I am about to release v1.0.5. I will throw the two mount stls up for you in the meantime.

[Fil131]

I took them down temporarily because I am about to release v1.0.5. I will throw the two mount stls up for you in the meantime.

It's no big deal really. I can wait for the newer versions of everything.

[lablover]

Nice. I wonder if anyone has printed that mount yet.

I did and it works awesome.. for the life of me can’t figure why pics always go sideways. Sorry

269586

[TylerR]

I did and it works awesome.. for the life of me can’t figure why pics always go sideways. Sorry

269586

Oh sweet! I really like hearing that, since I just designed it without ever printing or testing it. So no issues with the 3/8" bolt or assembly or anything? And the angle adjustment works good?

[TylerR]

Well, version 1.0.5 has been officially posted. Main change is the addition of Base Up case feeding. The large has been tested and works with 45acp and 40SW. The small works with 9mm and 380acp. I don't know if anyone has a need to bulge bust 380 but who knows?

Some other additions include a few of my adapters for feeding to the APP press. New Dillon side mount mentioned above, new motor body recently requested and the wall extender are in there as well.
All hex collator plates have been generated with 12.4mm hex hole. If you need something different you can generate it.

Any and all feedback is welcome, and happy printing.

[lablover]

Well, version 1.0.5 has been officially posted. Main change is the addition of Base Up case feeding. The large has been tested and works with 45acp and 40SW. The small works with 9mm and 380acp. I don't know if anyone has a need to bulge bust 380 but who knows?

Some other additions include a few of my adapters for feeding to the APP press. New Dillon side mount mentioned above, new motor body recently requested and the wall extender are in there as well.
All hex collator plates have been generated with 12.4mm hex hole. If you need something different you can generate it.

Any and all feedback is welcome, and happy printing.

Thank you sir

As far as your side mount. No issues at all! I wouldn't load up the bin with a ton of bullets but thats just me. Super strong as well. The adjustment is pretty straight forward. The way I used the 3/8" bolt I would have to remove the side feeder to adjust the angle but its pretty simple. I like it!

[lablover]

Could you snap a pic of your brass base up set up. I'm sure its pretty simple but images help. Thanks Boss Man

[TylerR]

Thank you sir

As far as your side mount. No issues at all! I wouldn't load up the bin with a ton of bullets but thats just me. Super strong as well. The adjustment is pretty straight forward. The way I used the 3/8" bolt I would have to remove the side feeder to adjust the angle but its pretty simple. I like it!

What I had in mind was to tension the bolt enough for it to be snug, but still adjustable. Maybe even using a large fender washer between the two parts. Is that not possible?

[TylerR]

Could you snap a pic of your brass base up set up. I'm sure its pretty simple but images help. Thanks Boss Man

I posted video a few pages back which shows everything in place and running, and then just posted a pic for GWS of the spring and tube setup.

[lablover]

I posted video a few pages back which shows everything in place and running, and then just posted a pic for GWS of the spring and tube setup.

I remember now..Off to look.

I'll give the fender washer thing a try. Good idea. I got the angle just right and just tightened it down permanent as I've printed another complete set up for my APP so wont have to move stuff around.

[lablover]

Kind of off topic but not.

Clear PLA or natural. Hmmmmmm I could see a bowl done in clear.

Btw, used the filament dryer today. Works fabulous! I had that clear that would not print worth a hoot because I left it out too long. Dried it for 4 hours then left it in the dryer while printing...perfect print.

269611

[JSATX]

Tyler,

The special base you made for me and the amazon motor is done. The motor is amazing! The base holes lined up perfectly and I'm in the final stages of assembly. I just did a 50 bullet test run while literally holding the feeder in my hand and had a 100% base down success rate.

Much more detailed post with pictures to follow. But I did want to let you know the four mounting holes for the feeder spring/tube adapter were left off this base design. I'm so psyched right now with the initial success it's not even a big deal, but if you intend to share it with others I would add those back.

[GWS]

I am measuring the 3 springs I have from DAA at 10.4mm, 13mm, and 13.5mm.

I use a spring to a drop tube, and then an adapter from the drop tube to the rigid tube Lee provides with the APP for both bullet sizing and case feeding.

269571

The reason I asked is I was wondering if the case bases might be more apt to hang up in a spring. Guess not.

The other reason I asked is whether .223 rifle bullets would work with those sizes......

I don't have any DAA springs, but I do have Hornady springs that came with their pistol bullet feeder.

Interesting Comparison below:

Hornady small 9.6 compared to DAA 10.4 (I.S.)
Hornady medium 10.4 compared to DAA 13 (I.S.)
Hornady large 13.5 compared to DAA 13.5 (I.S.)


Sorry that was ID. I missed the OD part. One second.....

OD (Roughly) 12.1mm, 15.1mm and 15.75mm

The reason I asked for O.S. too is that such is nice to have to design 3d printed threads for each.

With clear rigid tubing for feeding .223, 1/4" tubing (6.35mm) works best as bigger ones can bind the bullets as they try to slide points beside the next bullet bases, but I see less of that with springs. I wonder how a screen door spring would work for .223?

[TylerR]

The reason I asked is I was wondering if the case bases might be more apt to hang up in a spring. Guess not.
Not from my experience.

The other reason I asked is whether .223 rifle bullets would work with those sizes......
I believe the small spring is recommended by DAA for that caliber.

With clear rigid tubing for feeding .223, 1/4" tubing (6.35mm) works best as bigger ones can bind the bullets as they try to slide points beside the next bullet bases, but I see less of that with springs.
I think this has more to do with the bullet just passing through or stopping in the tube/spring. If it is stopping then the tolerance has to much tighter. In the original design the spring is just for passing through.

.....

[TylerR]

Tyler,

The special base you made for me and the amazon motor is done. The motor is amazing! The base holes lined up perfectly and I'm in the final stages of assembly. I just did a 50 bullet test run while literally holding the feeder in my hand and had a 100% base down success rate.

Much more detailed post with pictures to follow. But I did want to let you know the four mounting holes for the feeder spring/tube adapter were left off this base design. I'm so psyched right now with the initial success it's not even a big deal, but if you intend to share it with others I would add those back.

I am very glad to hear it worked well for you. I look forward to future pics/video.
I went ahead and added the holes to that base. Since they are missing on yours you can use the Drop_Hole_Plug as an alignment tool when attaching the adapter. That's how I used to do it.

[TylerR]

Hold off on printing the base up slide plates for now, if you had any intentions to do so. Making another change. lol

[lablover]

Hold off on printing the base up slide plates for now, if you had any intentions to do so. Making another change. lol


Drats, one was on the printer now..oh well. Other items printing

[TylerR]

Drats, one was on the printer now..oh well. Other items printing

Large slide or small? The large plate will probably function 100% for you.

[Fil131]

Well, version 1.0.5 has been officially posted. Main change is the addition of Base Up case feeding. The large has been tested and works with 45acp and 40SW. The small works with 9mm and 380acp. I don't know if anyone has a need to bulge bust 380 but who knows?

Some other additions include a few of my adapters for feeding to the APP press. New Dillon side mount mentioned above, new motor body recently requested and the wall extender are in there as well.
All hex collator plates have been generated with 12.4mm hex hole. If you need something different you can generate it.

Any and all feedback is welcome, and happy printing.

Which pieces do I need for the dillon casefeed mount? Only one says dillon in the description. Too many to choose from which is a good problem.

[TylerR]

Which pieces do I need for the dillon casefeed mount? Only one says dillon in the description. Too many to choose from which is a good problem.

Mount_Dillon_Hang
Mount_Dillon_Hang_Base

[Fil131]

Mount_Dillon_Hang
Mount_Dillon_Hang_Base

Unless I'm losing my mind only one of them says dillon and it's for rod? And now your google drive says no files.

[lablover]

Large slide or small? The large plate will probably function 100% for you.

Large

[TylerR]

Unless I'm losing my mind only one of them says dillon and it's for rod? And now your google drive says no files.

I have no mount with rod in the name, so I am not sure what files you are looking at. I did remove the download because I am making a change. I just posted the two mount files you are looking for though.

[TylerR]

Large

It will be fine then. I am posting a small change though. Trying to squeeze out every bit of reliability I can.

[Fil131]

I have no mount with rod in the name, so I am not sure what files you are looking at. I did remove the download because I am making a change. I just posted the two mount files you are looking for though.

Sweet got em, these print ok without supports?

[TylerR]

Sweet got em, these print ok without supports?

Absolutely. Just lay them on the their side on the build plate. The round part is flush with the side, so it will build that right up from the bottom no issue. 3d printers love to make circles without supports. :)

269621

[Fil131]

Absolutely. Just lay them on the their side on the build plate. The round part is flush with the side, so it will build that right up from the bottom no issue. 3d printers love to make circles without supports. :)

269621

Gotcha makes sense, I couldn't tell that the circular pieces were all the way to the edge at first glance

[TylerR]

Files are back up.

[o416]

Hi Tyler,

Thanks for putting the APP files up :)

Can you please explain how they work? I know it might sound dumb but a picture goes a long way for me.

Thanks again!

[lablover]

Files are back up.

Base up safe again? I’d be curious as what you changed. And if I need to reprint the large base up plate. Amazing work. I printed the large base before you said not to and it’s amazing the little details in that thing.

[TylerR]

Base up safe again? I’d be curious as what you changed. And if I need to reprint the large base up plate. Amazing work. I printed the large base before you said not to and it’s amazing the little details in that thing.

Very minor changes to the ramp. The one you printed should work fine. Mostly I changed the small base up collator plate from 18mm to 19mm height.

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,

Thanks for putting the APP files up :)

Can you please explain how they work? I know it might sound dumb but a picture goes a long way for me.

Thanks again!

It's pretty straight forward. Use a spring from the collator to the drop tube just like normal. For 9mm and 40sw brass, or sizing pistol bullets (9mm-45acp), the DAA large spring and my large adapters will work. For 45acp brass you would need the DAA output chute spring, which is 13.5mm ID, and my extra large adapters.

Print out the "APP_Drop_Tube_#3_#4_Tube_Adapter". This will connect the drop tube to either the #3 or #4 (two largest) plastic tubes that come with the APP. From here you are just setting up the APP the way you would normally. You can cut the tube down to be shorter if you want, which is what I did.

There is a pic of my setup on page 79. In the pic you will see I also have a "APP_Offset_Connector" on the APP press. I came up with this and use it primarily for sizing 45acp bullets, because it gives me more clearance between the tube and my modified handle. It will not work with .45 brass (they will get hung up), but I assume it would with everything else.

Edited to add:
Here is the DAA output chute spring. It is larger then the DAA large spring by .5mm, and is 4 feet long, so you can cut it up in to whatever length pieces you need. I mentioned this before, but if I were to buy springs again I would just get the small DAA spring and this output spring, and skip the large one. This one will do everything the large one does and more. Who knows maybe you can find a use for the chute too. lol

https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring?gclid=CjwKCAjwz6_8BRBkEiwA3p02VUhtnBWZltZhk WHGJvnoG4pV8fnCU5uh6AViYXTKTw0NdqFTT-DCCBoCXCkQAvD_BwE

[lablover]

Very minor changes to the ramp. The one you printed should work fine. Mostly I changed the small base up collator plate from 18mm to 19mm height.
Thanks buddy. Going to start collator plate now

[TylerR]

Thanks buddy. Going to start collator plate now

Just for the record, I print all my collator plates at 2 walls and 10% infill these days, and they are plenty strong. I have printed these things so many times I was burning through filament like crazy.

Oh and I can't stress this enough. Make sure you have enough angle on the feeder when you are feeding brass. 45-60 degrees.

[TylerR]

I totally forgot, I was going to include some other APP stuff I have designed. I have a dedicated APP bullet slide for 45acp and 9mm. I find them to be more reliable then the stock APP slide. I also designed a replacement base for the APP slide for brass. It has additional support at the base of the case to improve reliability (some assembly required :))

I have added the parts to the download and incremented to v1.0.6.

[lablover]

I totally forgot, I was going to include some other APP stuff I have designed. I have a dedicated APP bullet slide for 45acp and 9mm. I find them to be more reliable then the stock APP slide. I also designed a replacement base for the APP slide for brass. It has additional support at the base of the case to improve reliability (some assembly required :))

I have added the parts to the download and incremented to v1.0.6.


Great info on printing the collater plates. I got side tracked and didn’t start a print, so I will with your settings. Bet it cuts on time as well.

Looking forward to your APP mods. I really dislike the App slide..it’s pretty flimsy.

[lablover]

I just noticed you put a small notch in the hex plate for the set screw on the brass hex adapter, Very nice touch. And time cut big time by your suggested settings. 4 hour time cut! Epic.

[TylerR]

I just noticed you put a small notch in the hex plate for the set screw on the brass hex adapter, Very nice touch. And time cut big time by your suggested settings. 4 hour time cut! Epic.

Nice! Please let me know if the sizing on the notch seems appropriate. It could be adjusted if needed.

[lablover]

Nice! Please let me know if the sizing on the notch seems appropriate. It could be adjusted if needed.
I’ll let you know in about 9 hours

[TylerR]

In case any one is wondering how to orient the APP slides.

On the brass slide, the little tab gets glued in to the rear slot. If you look at the original design you will see what I mean. Or there is a one piece version you can print with supports. Just disassemble the original APP slide and replace the bottom part with my part, using the original claws and top piece.

269670

[TylerR]

Gotcha makes sense, I couldn't tell that the circular pieces were all the way to the edge at first glance

If you look at the latest version, I modified it to have a slight flat edge there to make it more obvious.

[o416]

Tyler, you are a legend :)

[TylerR]

Tyler, you are a legend :)

Haha, thank you. I have really enjoyed contributing to this project.

Now I need to do some casting / sizing / reloading with my new 9mm mold. :)
Eventually I will get to rifle, starting with .223

[TylerR]

So my good friend Ed was kind enough to point out a detail about my APP case slider part I forgot. As designed it requires permanent alteration to the original part. I won't go in to details now but I am deciding whether to keep it as is or change it to not require that alteration.

[GWS]

So my good friend Ed was kind enough to point out a detail about my APP case slider part I forgot. As designed it requires permanent alteration to the original part. I won't go in to details now but I am deciding whether to keep it as is or change it to not require that alteration.

Ed can be a pain that way.......happens when you take up with really smart people. I just need to run everything by him BEFORE I print instead of after......where then I have to do it twice. ;) Handy man to have around, that's for sure.

I need to look close at your APP stuff......can't keep up with you as it is.....slow down for the slow people....:)

Have you posted anything before today on the APP parts? Did I miss them? I modified mine for .40 cases to make it feed right, and .308, and .223. and I've been thinking I need to print the fixes because the mods sort of disfigured it. Didn't have the luxury of a printer then.....

https://i.postimg.cc/KjwGXCG0/IMG-3285.jpg
Above, I got rid of the chamfers on top of the slide for .223 and .308. All the chamfers did it make the cases tilt and fall crooked.

https://i.postimg.cc/5trYqmHV/IMG-3266.jpg
for .40 I really could have used a printer.....I couldn't keep the bases from falling into the caseholder plowed area....the wires helped but your print design would be better. NOW, I can make all the bases I want.

[TylerR]

Ed can be a pain that way.......happens when you take up with really smart people. I just need to run everything by him BEFORE I print instead of after......where then I have to do it twice. ;) Handy man to have around, that's for sure.

I need to look close at your APP stuff......can't keep up with you as it is.....slow down for the slow people....:)

Haha, I love it. Ed is my second pair of eyes for sure. He catches details most normal people would never see in a million years.

[RedlegEd]

Haha, I love it. Ed is my second pair of eyes for sure. He catches details most normal people would never see in a million years.
Will you guys quit!? You'll make my head swell. I'm just OCD is all, and like Rain Man, I just happen to see the toothpicks you guys drop. :)
Ed

[TylerR]

Have you posted anything before today on the APP parts? Did I miss them? I modified mine for .40 cases to make it feed right, and .308, and .223. and I've been thinking I need to print the fixes because the mods sort of disfigured it. Didn't have the luxury of a printer then.....


I have not, and I have really only dabbled on overcoming the short comings of the slide mechanism. Dedicated slides for bullet feeding are straight forward. Solving all the little reliability issues with case feeding is a whole nother animal.

I have a feeling between you, Ed and me we could probably come up with some good stuff.

[TylerR]

Will you guys quit!? You'll make my head swell. I'm just OCD is all, and like Rain Man, I just happen to see the toothpicks you guys drop. :)
Ed

That's the funny part Ed, I am pretty OCD myself. Your OCD just maybe trumps mine. :)

[TylerR]

OK so I got a modified version headed to the printer. I am going to be crazy and actually use supports. Did I happen to mention I hate using supports?

[lablover]

OK so I got a modified version headed to the printer. I am going to be crazy and actually use supports. Did I happen to mention I hate using supports?


I used to be that way, if your printer is dialed in they come off pretty easy.

[TylerR]

https://i.postimg.cc/5trYqmHV/IMG-3266.jpg
for .40 I really could have used a printer.....I couldn't keep the bases from falling into the caseholder grooves....the wires helped but your print design would be better. NOW, I can make all the bases I want.

Its pretty funny because this picture of what you did with that wire illustrates exactly what this part is trying to accomplish. Provide support to the base of the case. Too bad Lee didn't anticipate this issue because clearly a lot of people are looking for work arounds.

[GWS]

Yup, that why I posted it......I like that print part you have....I didn't have that option.

But the beveled tops really bug me.....they should have figured out that beveling edges just prevents a straight drop......especially with no support around the cases. Which is why I made these:

https://i.postimg.cc/sXGBbVcQ/IMG-3292.jpg

One is for .308 and one is for .223. You could make nice ones with the printer! What they do is guide the cases straight down to the slider using the SAME height setting for both calibers.....and that helps fix one of my biggest pet peeves with the APP. How hard it is to change calibers. That was my first goal.....make caliber changes easier.

[TylerR]

.....and that helps fix one of my biggest pet peeves with the APP. How hard it is to change calibers. That was my first goal.....make caliber changes easier.
Amen to that! Fiddling with that damn bolt to change height is very annoying.

[GWS]

The following short video shows how I use the ugly little tubes to help me quick change from one rifle to another. Maybe you can come up with a 3d printer-made solution that does the same thing. Now THAT would be cool!!!

As for finding the bolt I use a bigger nut! ;)


https://youtu.be/ths0rbsUArQ

[TylerR]

The following short video shows how I use the ugly little tubes to help me quick change from one rifle to another. Maybe you can come up with a 3d printer-made solution that does the same thing. Now THAT would be cool!!!

As for finding the bolt I use a bigger nut! ;)

https://youtu.be/ths0rbsUArQ


Very creative solution GWS. No doubt I am sure it could be built off of and made more elegant with 3d printing. So many projects, so little time....

[RedlegEd]

Hi guys. How about something like this? You have a central (inner) tube that has a slot to allow both .223 and .308 to slide out. Then you have an outer tube that you can rotate to allow a "window" for either the .233 or .308. This is just a rough concept drawing, but I think you get the idea. One tube with a "dial" indicator of which case to use.
Ed

269692

[TylerR]

Hi guys. How about something like this? You have a central (inner) tube that has a slot to allow both .223 and .308 to slide out. Then you have an outer tube that you can rotate to allow a "window" for either the .233 or .308. This is just a rough concept drawing, but I think you get the idea. One tube with a "dial" indicator of which case to use.
Ed


I am very intrigued. Would it be possible to replace the whole tube interface to where height adjustments were not required based on the caliber. Just insert the correct inner tube? Now that would be slick.

To clarify what I mean, building off Ed's idea. You have a universal tube that mounts to the press at a fixed height. Then just insert and twist an inner tube in to it and it sets the correct depth and everything else for that caliber.

Perhaps one inner tube could serve multiple calibers, like .223/.308 or 9mm/45acp, which if I am understanding you Ed that would be part of the concept. But ideally never having to reset the height of the base platform, which is the biggest pain.

[GWS]

Why else would I show those pictures!......I knows there gots to be a cleaner, better way......just have to get people thinking about it.;) I have faith......already stuff to mull over and investigate....thankyou, gentlemen!


.............. But ideally never having to reset the height of the base platform, which is the biggest pain.

That's the goal and while were at it, make it easy to change the incoming down tubes......since one tube doesn't fit all. that's why in the video I had to unscrew it and screw in the other bolt on the other side. Would prefer not to have to do that.

Back to the drawing board......and maybe even time to start thinking about a rifle case feeder to feed it.

[lablover]

Nice! Please let me know if the sizing on the notch seems appropriate. It could be adjusted if needed.

The notch works perfect! Thanks for the attention to detail.

[lablover]

Woooohoooooo

Need a little more angle and I’m golden



https://youtu.be/l5CA-eS6c00

[TylerR]

Woooohoooooo

Need a little more angle and I’m golden



Yes, if some are falling base first then give it more angle.

[lablover]

Yes, if some are falling base first then give it more angle.

The flipper plate is genius. Didn’t have any fall base down. Pretty happy right now

[TylerR]

The flipper plate is genius. Didn’t have any fall base down. Pretty happy right now

It only took six weeks and about 50 prints to get it right. lol

[TylerR]

Just posted a new version of the APP brass slide base that does not require modification to the original part. The best way to print is to orient with the tab side on the build plate like shown in the picture. Use supports from the build plate up only and change "support overhang angle" to 60.

Here is a short video showing how quickly it can be swapped.

https://youtu.be/ulJ6Ywcvq2c

[GWS]

This is too funny. I just downloaded your stash one more time last night to get your APP goodies. So what's one more time? ;) Looks perfect to me.

I had to pull my little wire goodies to use the base for some other things. Does the same go for yours? Look forward to printing one out. Way nicer than mine! Thanks!

[TylerR]

Does the same go for yours?

Not sure what you are asking here? I believe it should work for any caliber brass. Keep in mind that for bullets I am using a dedicated slide, not the slide with claws.

[GWS]

Mixed signals here.....in the video you just showed, you connected your piece to the part with the pinchers did you not? You trying to confuse my simple mind? ;) Is the "claws" something else?

The base should work for most, but it may have problems with revolver brass with rims that stick out.

I printed one and it works great for .40S&W!, what I shoot most of. The biggest PIA was with the pincher adjustment....nothing to do with your print.

There is some cleanup, but that's to be expected with a print requiring supports. Good Job!


https://youtu.be/U9WNQrgcL8E

[Lakehouse2012]

Finally, getting back to printing... CR10-V2 with ABS using the cheapest heat-sock I could make... I'm an hour into the print, should be 15 hours total using a 1MMS nozzle. Expect an update tomorrow afternoon...

Thanks Tyler for the files, I've got a motor on hand and hopefully having a working loader by the weekend.

Lakehouse2012https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201021/4dc53d563f116470cd9794fbf4733a96.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201021/fe7dfc73ad717986ec3cb76ec871987e.jpg

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Welcome to the CR-10 V2 club! I love mine! But then I have never seen anything else!;)

What I haven't tried yet is ABS nor any nozzle except what comes with the printer......on pins and needles waiting to learn something New!

I was wondering what the options were for covering such a machine for ABS! Interesting....and cheap.....both good.

I noticed you have one of those fancy blue tubes.....the only add I've done is the EZABL bed leveler which I absolutely love! Here's my first base print a couple of months back. (the small one). It took 18 hours with a .4 nozzle.

https://i.postimg.cc/J4Rb7j7D/IMG-3485.jpg

[JSATX]

Not much left to do but wire the motor and light switch up.

1/2 Pex pipe is working great for 9mm. Designed a super simple adapter for the Hornady die and the bullet feeder so far I really like it. Shoulda used blue! But had red on hand.

269817

[lablover]

Good luck with the ABS lighthouse. Good idea for the heat tent.

Jsatx I like the Pex idea. Too bad it won’t work for .45. Drats.

GWS,I love my abl system for bed leveling..best investment ever. I even went with solid bed mounts.

[Lakehouse2012]

Thanks GWS, the Creality machines are some of the best. I took a break from printing boolit stuff 6 months ago and with a group of buddies over 5 months we printed over 10,000 face shields, donating to health care. I've got this V2 and 2 other CR10S's. Other than maintenance, they just keep printing.... I'd guess that I have 3000 hours in each of the machines, they really do rock! Hatch got me started on an Anet A8 a few years back, and other than being noisy, that machine still works also. I printed at least 500 shields on that one before it went down for an overhaul.

Regarding the Capricorn tubing, its nice to have some on hand when your stock tubing gets worn. The fitting at the hot-end will eventually gnaw at the tube and cause a slight bit of movement, which will eventually cause a clog. The Capricorn will last a bit longer, but its not a "must-have" upgrade.

I've always said the auto bed-leveling would be a great feature, but so far leveling has been such I minor event for me on setup, that I haven't upgraded.

I will say- the carburized glass plate they sell with the V2, worked great for 6 months of hard (24 hrs/day) printing, but eventually it started peeling up with the prints. I flipped the glass over and an using Aquanet spray on the smooth side glass, rather than paying Creality's $85 for factory replacements.

Any questions about wear, tweaks or maintenance on these machines, let me know, I love to help and am honored to be among you enterprising minds! :)

[QUOTE=GWS;5012842]Welcome to the CR-10 V2 club! I love mine! But then I have never seen anything else!;)

What I haven't tried yet is ABS nor any nozzle except what comes with the printer......on pins and needles waiting to learn something New!

I was wondering what the options were for covering such a machine for ABS! Interesting....and cheap.....both good.

I noticed you have one of those fancy blue tubes.....the only add I've done is the EZABL bed leveler which I absolutely love! Here's my first base print a couple of months back. (the small one). It took 18 hours with a .4 nozzle.

[lablover]

Guess I tried the wrong size pex. The solid bed mounts is so it never goes out of adjustment. Works perfect so far. I need to go find some of the thin wall clear tube. I ordered some from Lee and seems I ordered the wrong size or they sent the wrong size. Should work fine for 45 bullets but a bit snug for 45 brass

[GWS]

Guess I tried the wrong size pex. The solid bed mounts is so it never goes out of adjustment. Works perfect so far. I need to go find some of the thin wall clear tube. I ordered some from Lee and seems I ordered the wrong size or they sent the wrong size. Should work fine for 45 bullets but a bit snug for 45 brass

Maybe the curves were too tight? And for that reason the Pex has to be bigger? No experience with that. With rigid thinwall there are no curves.

I get mine from Pet Mountain: https://www.petmountain.com/product/lees-thinwall-rigid-tubing-clear or Pet Warehouse: https://www.petswarehouse.com/tubing/

The product used to be sized perfect for telescoping but I think their sources must have changed because it doesn't always do that well. I wonder it they may be getting the tube from China now and metric wall thickness causes a problem.

You can still order one tube at a time.....walls are 1/32"-ish. See the above gripe. Anyway, you can get O.D. 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 3/4, and 1". I have use up to 5/8. Probably my most common size I buy is 9/16 for pistols which is also the size Lee Precision buys for their 4-way feeder, only all these are 36" long. 9/16 means they are 1/16 less Inside Diameter. (1/32 walls) Except for the wall width isn't always controlled. (don't get mixed up with the Lee name, because this tubing manufacturer is also named Lee). Lee precision also has a 1/4 " tube. There! I've done my best to totally mix you up.;)

One more thing....if you are lucky and your tubes telescope like they used to, you can just drop a smaller 1/2" tube inside the 9/16 and a 7/16 inside that and keep using the four-way............but now with power collators you probably won't.........still it can come in handy at times. I bevel incoming edges with a case mouth beveling tool to keep bullet and cases flowing smooth. I super glue printed transition pieces to the tube so I have one piece to change out rather than three, when it's caliber change time.

If you do use some thinwall, I've found a hack saw is best for cutting to length (for the cut, just lay it on a partly open vise), then the side of a grinding wheel on my bench grinder polishes the cut edge, and the case deburr/bevel tool de-edges incoming edges so bullets fly through.

[TylerR]

I will say- the carburized glass plate they sell with the V2, worked great for 6 months of hard (24 hrs/day) printing, but eventually it started peeling up with the prints. I flipped the glass over and an using Aquanet spray on the smooth side glass, rather than paying Creality's $85 for factory replacements..

I printed ABS on tempered glass for years, using glue stick to get good adhesion. It worked, but was kind of a pain, and eventually pieces of glass would come up with a print and ultimately replacement was needed. When I got my new Ender 5 I decided I wanted to try something else.

I bought one of these polypropylene glass fiber build plates just to test, and I have never been happier. I used 220 grit sandpaper and roughed up the surface and the first layer adhesion is unreal, without having to use anything else like painters tape, glue stick or hair spray. I actually run it on top of a piece of glass, but that probably isn't necessary. I just wipe it down with some windex every once in awhile.

https://www.amazon.com/235-235mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JFY2LPN/ref=psdc_8481419011_t1_B07YFJTZCB

[Lakehouse2012]

I printed ABS on tempered glass for years, using glue stick to get good adhesion. It worked, but was kind of a pain, and eventually pieces of glass would come up with a print and ultimately replacement was needed. When I got my new Ender 5 I decided I wanted to try something else.

I bought one of these polypropylene glass fiber build plates just to test, and I have never been happier. I used 220 grit sandpaper and roughed up the surface and the first layer adhesion is unreal, without having to use anything else like painters tape, glue stick or hair spray. I actually run it on top of a piece of glass, but that probably isn't necessary. I just wipe it down with some windex every once in awhile.

https://www.amazon.com/235-235mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JFY2LPN/ref=psdc_8481419011_t1_B07YFJTZCBI agree Tyler, that will be a next purchase.

Print came out pretty good for ABS. I'll do a small bit of heating to tie a single layer that came apart on the left edge.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201021/fc9acdb78b3560f6824abf68a35e0577.jpg

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Looks good. ABS is pretty glossy.....does that mean slick? as in less friction between base and wheel?

Has anyone used the plastic weld kit from Harbor Freight for fixing things? I have not, but my brother bought one to to repair something plastic......I think it worked......but I don't know what kind of plastic "rod" comes with it. I haven't heard of such a thing being used in this hobby.....yet.

https://www.harborfreight.com/80-watt-iron-plastic-welding-kit-60662.html

[Lakehouse2012]

I use my hot melt glue gun to fix delamination, if I'm not interested in how pretty it will look. After heating the gun up, I will stick the nozzle into the part and slowly fill and weld as I go. Structure is great when its done, just not very pretty...

Yes, the ABS will have less friction and is stronger, though I dont know if its really necessary with these kinds of parts... I'm just having fun getting back into the printing again. :)


Looks good. APS is pretty glossy.....does that mean slick? as in less friction between base and wheel?

Has anyone used the plastic weld kit from Harbor Freight for fixing things? I have not, but my brother bought one to to repair something plastic......I think it worked......but I don't know what kind of plastic "rod" comes with it. I haven't heard of such a thing being used in this hobby.....yet.

https://www.harborfreight.com/80-watt-iron-plastic-welding-kit-60662.html

[Rcmaveric]

I use a non tempered scrap glass i salvage from dumpsters. Lol the Elmer's glue sticks sometimes work too well causing me to break more than one pane. I like the super cheap Jot sticks from the dollar store. I have to print with the glass at 60c for best hold. But as soon as it cools the prints pop right off no issues. I havent broken a glass bed in a year since using cheap glue sticks.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

I use my hot melt glue gun to fix delamination, if I'm not interested in how pretty it will look. After heating the gun up, I will stick the nozzle into the part and slowly fill and weld as I go. Structure is great when its done, just not very pretty...

Yes, the ABS will have less friction and is stronger, though I dont know if its really necessary with these kinds of parts... I'm just having fun getting back into the printing again. :)

What a great idea! I wonder if a person could "print" glue sticks out of the PLA or ABS or whatever you are printing, and feed them through the glue gun instead of commerial glue sticks....That way you got your color too. Prettier that way?

Maybe I'm dreaming.....;)

[Rcmaveric]

Actually the make 3D printer pens.

Also for dual head printers. I remember reading some where they have a type of filament similar to glue stick polymer to use for supports because it is so cheap. They also have a water soluble filament for supports.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

I've heard of the water soluble filament......wondered why you would want that.....interesting.

The Creality glass that came with mine works so well without glue or hairspray, I was disappointed to hear that it may wear out. Guess I'll have to deal with that when it comes.....but I'm glad I bought an extra. The alternatives you guys use is sure more effort. But it is what it is.

[Rcmaveric]

Lot of people use the Capton tape over the glass. Probably what's on it. So if that coating wears out just reapply it.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[lablover]

I’ve been using this stuff on a mirror bed. Works fantastic! Bed cool and print just comes right off with zero effort. While the bed is warm you would need to chisel it off.

https://www.amazon.com/Magigoo-Pen-All-One-Adhesive/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-drs1_0?crid=34ZRP1RW666M&cv_ct_cx=magigoo&dchild=1&keywords=magigoo&pd_rd_i=B01N2JGTWJ&pd_rd_r=4339c94a-583d-4fee-9c64-48b070b95cec&pd_rd_w=lJuOu&pd_rd_wg=vnNDp&pf_rd_p=ecbfa24d-f48c-4d5c-83aa-9549f4e7c925&pf_rd_r=EHPPKVBRNAR68A4NVH6D&psc=1&qid=1603371964&sprefix=Magig%2Caps%2C179&sr=1-1-f6b8d51f-2c55-4dc3-89ad-0c3639671b2d

[Fil131]

Waiting on my bullet feeder dies and powder funnels from DAA, until I get those I can’t do anything with this and my press... The waiting is the hardest part.

[Fil131]

And to add to the 3D printing comments, all I’ve been using is PETG and my Prusa MK3S with the textured bed, cleaning with off brand window cleaner, no upgrades to my printer. Never so far have I had a print lift. I also let prints cool on their own and they basically remove themselves with little to no force whatsoever.

[GWS]

You said waiting is the hardest part? I have a hard time waiting for the stupid bed to cool!:) Maybe that's the reason the reason they wear out? Mine hasn't yet, and it does release just fine if I leave the print alone.

I only had the first one release and that was from not cleaning the bed first. Since then I use alcohol and no more lifting, period. I get that there's more than one solution to bed problems....

My biggest problem is there are too many projects I want to do....so little time....;)

Am loving my Creality CR-10 V2, and it's 300x300x400 print footprint. No complaints except my own slow learning curve, and 3D printing's slow print speed. Quality prints, no problem. TylerR's and Mike's great ideas and STL's ....pure awesomeness.

[Fil131]

You said waiting is the hardest part? I have a hard time waiting for the stupid bed to cool!:) Maybe that's the reason the reason they wear out? Mine hasn't yet, and it does release just fine if I leave the print alone.

I only had the first one release and that was from not cleaning it. Since then I use alcohol and no more lifting, period. I get that there's more than one solution to bed problems....

My biggest problem is there are too many projects I want to do....so little time....;)

Haha, I'm always tempted to try removing as soon as the extruder moves away from the print. I haven't tried alcohol yet since I haven't had lift problems, I read that alcohol might cause me to have removal issues with PETG.

[Michael303]

Since you guys have been talking about build plates, I got one of these PEI magnetic flex plates a while a go and it's been easily the best printer upgrade I've made.

https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezflex2-flexible-print-system/

I can only comment on how it works with PLA but the first layer typically adheres fantastically. Only occasionally does a print need a small brim to prevent minor lifting of thin pieces. Removing is as simple as lifting and flexing the plate.

[lablover]

Tyler, or anyone

If you see a fuse, what size did you use and where did you place it? Had a bullet jam up today the shaft with the pin tore right thru my colater plate. Ruined it for sure. I’m wondering if a fuse would trip before that happens?

I’m making another plate with 4 walls this time but I’d like to have a fuse trip before it happens again. What happened is a bullet didn’t go down the hole all the way and got hung up, this jamming the plate. Might sand a little bevel on the hole going thru the bowl.

[TylerR]

Tyler, or anyone

If you see a fuse, what size did you use and where did you place it? Had a bullet jam up today the shaft with the pin tore right thru my colater plate. Ruined it for sure. I’m wondering if a fuse would trip before that happens?

I’m making another plate with 4 walls this time but I’d like to have a fuse trip before it happens again. What happened is a bullet didn’t go down the hole all the way and got hung up, this jamming the plate. Might sand a little bevel on the hole going thru the bowl.

Just curious what caliber and bullet this was? Nose up or down? How fast was the collator running?

I have a 5 amp fuse right after the power source, but it has never tripped on a jam. Perhaps a smaller fuse would. I played around with bevels on the drop hole way back when, and decided that it created more issues then it solved with hangups.

[JSATX]

A quick update to anyone considering a new build with the Amazon motor. First of all it is WAY bigger than the old standard JGY370. I do not think torque will ever be an issue.

The 10RPM motor option is just way too fast. I was having the bullets hang up in my PEX drop tube because they weren't falling fast enough, the collator plate then pinched them and jammed up. I am using 3d printed motor shaft to collator plate adapters, they work well and break whenever there is a jam which is good. But it was jamming fairly frequently.

The 6RPM version arrived tonight. I just installed it and it is SO MUCH BETTER! No jams at all and PEX is still working really well.

https://www.amazon.com/Aobbmok-Torque-Little-Geared-Reducer/dp/B07DYMSX9B/ref=sr_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=12v%2B6%2Brpm%2Bdc%2Bmotor&qid=1603413754&s=hi&sr=1-24&th=1

Note that there are many brands and options for the same motor, but I think it's a very safe bet they're all interchangeable.

[lablover]

Just curious what caliber and bullet this was? Nose up or down? How fast was the collator running?

I have a 5 amp fuse right after the power source, but it has never tripped on a jam. Perhaps a smaller fuse would. I played around with bevels on the drop hole way back when, and decided that it created more issues then it solved with hangups.

.45 acp nose up. Pretty sure I used the right flipper plate too. It.s a 185gr JHP. Kind of like the hornady xtp. What might of happened is it got caught up and I cleared the jam, not noticing the plate already got screwed up at the shaft...did it again several times after that but the plate was already hosed up and I didn’t notice it. Like I said, I might of used the wrong flipper plate too hard to tell which is which. I need to label them after I print them out. Almost sure I had the correct one.

Almost sure......lol

[JSATX]

Tyler, or anyone

If you see a fuse, what size did you use and where did you place it? Had a bullet jam up today the shaft with the pin tore right thru my colater plate. Ruined it for sure. I’m wondering if a fuse would trip before that happens?

I’m making another plate with 4 walls this time but I’d like to have a fuse trip before it happens again. What happened is a bullet didn’t go down the hole all the way and got hung up, this jamming the plate. Might sand a little bevel on the hole going thru the bowl.

This has saved me from jam problems. Very simple shaft adapter which shears at the top under much torque.

[lablover]

A quick update to anyone considering a new build with the Amazon motor. First of all it is WAY bigger than the old standard JGY370. I do not think torque will ever be an issue.

The 10RPM motor option is just way too fast. I was having the bullets hang up in my PEX drop tube because they weren't falling fast enough, the collator plate then pinched them and jammed up. I am using 3d printed motor shaft to collator plate adapters, they work well and break whenever there is a jam which is good. But it was jamming fairly frequently.

The 6RPM version arrived tonight. I just installed it and it is SO MUCH BETTER! No jams at all and PEX is still working really well.

https://www.amazon.com/Aobbmok-Torque-Little-Geared-Reducer/dp/B07DYMSX9B/ref=sr_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=12v%2B6%2Brpm%2Bdc%2Bmotor&qid=1603413754&s=hi&sr=1-24&th=1

Note that there are many brands and options for the same motor, but I think it's a very safe bet they're all interchangeable.


Hmmm, might be a inexpensive option with that motor. I’d be curious to see your motor shaft adapter that you printed. With jams that might be a quicker faster print option than reprinting the whole plate.....ask me how I know. Lol

[lablover]

This has saved me from jam problems. Very simple shaft adapter which shears at the top under much torque.

Wow, read my mind! Can you post a .stl? That’s pretty slick

[TylerR]

.45 acp nose up. Pretty sure I used the right flipper plate too. It.s a 185gr JHP. Kind of like the hornady xtp. What might of happened is it got caught up and I cleared the jam, not noticing the plate already got screwed up at the shaft...did it again several times after that but the plate was already hosed up and I didn’t notice it. Like I said, I might of used the wrong flipper plate too hard to tell which is which. I need to label them after I print them out. Almost sure I had the correct one.

Almost sure......lol

Having the wrong flipper plate shouldn't affect whether a bullet hangs up or not at the drop hole. It would just fail to flip the bullet and it would drop nose first.
The main reasons for hangup is collator running too fast, having a slight ridge on the collator plate (which should be addressed with the bevel I added), or the bullet catching on something below the drop hole causing several to build up and eventually jam.

[lablover]

Having the wrong flipper plate shouldn't affect whether a bullet hangs up or not at the drop hole. It would just fail to flip the bullet and it would drop nose first.
The main reasons for hangup is collator running too fast, having a slight ridge on the collator plate (which should be addressed with the bevel I added), or the bullet catching on something below the drop hole causing several to build up and eventually jam.

After the new plate prints out I’ll take a look again. I also didn’t have a spring in the flipper part to knock out skewed bullets.

My other Tyler set up for brass has been flawless. Just got my springs in today from DAA so was excited to try the new printed feeder with bullets. Tomorrow is a new day.

Edit:
I also noticed I could get a jam when a bullet wouldn’t flip, it was sideways in the plate hole and hit the ramp and didn’t flip..then it would jam against the wall before the hole. These are kind of short bullets with a odd shape. I might have to look into a different ramp? I know with the old Ammo Mike set up I glued a sliver of credit card on the ramp so it stuck out more. I’ll try to get some video of it tomorrow.

Btw, motor is pretty slow. It’s a original mr BF motor, snail slow like 8 rpm

[TylerR]

I also noticed I could get a jam when a bullet wouldn’t flip, it was sideways in the plate hole and hit the ramp and didn’t flip..then it would jam against the wall before the hole. These are kind of short bullets with a odd shape.

I might have to look into a different ramp? I know with the old Ammo Mike set up I glued a sliver of credit card on the ramp so it stuck out more. I’ll try to get some video of it tomorrow.

Btw, motor is pretty slow. It’s a original mr BF motor, snail slow like 8 rpm

Can you give more detail on the short and oddly shaped bullet? You may want to print a collator plate that has less play, similar to the discussion about the 90gn .380 bullets we had a few pages back.

If you need the slide to stick out further, take a #6 sheet metal screw and insert it in the back of the plate to whatever depth you need. No credit card necessary. :)

I have the 10rpm version of the MBF motor and at full speed it is pretty damn fast.

[TylerR]

lablover the other possible issue based on what you described is that you are not running the feeder at a steep enough angle.

[lablover]

Can you give more detail on the short and oddly shaped bullet? You may want to print a collator plate that has less play, similar to the discussion about the 90gn .380 bullets we had a few pages back.

If you need the slide to stick out further, take a #6 sheet metal screw and insert it in the back of the plate to whatever depth you need. No credit card necessary. :)

I have the 10rpm version of the MBF motor and at full speed it is pretty damn fast.

I meant the credit card sliver is on the ramp. The one that you have that is replaceable between brass and bullets. Not the slider plate. Kind of looks like a ski ramp. I’ll get a picture tomorrow as well as the bullets and what they are doing. Thanks Tyler

[lablover]

lablover the other possible issue based on what you described is that you are not running the feeder at a steep enough angle.

Seemed the more angle I gave it the worse it got. But I will revisit it all in the morning. Again, most of it might be happening after the colater plate got dicked up and I didn’t notice.

[TylerR]

I meant the credit card sliver is on the ramp. The one that you have that is replaceable between brass and bullets. Not the slider plate. Kind of looks like a ski ramp. I’ll get a picture tomorrow as well as the bullets and what they are doing. Thanks Tyler

Oh I understand now. Were you using the brass ramp for bullets? That could possibly contribute because of the ridge.

[Lakehouse2012]

Tyler, I'm confused... I printed the 9MMS drop tube tonight and in Cura I'm certain there was an outer wall around the top at the locking mechanism. But the print I am posting shows open?

Maybe my 1mm nozzle couldn't figure it out, or the file changed?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201023/7c71ad1af28e57a19bd9d867dca024a1.jpg

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Tyler, I'm confused... I printed the 9MMS drop tube tonight and in Cura I'm certain there was an outer wall around the top at the locking mechanism. But the print I am posting shows open?

Maybe my 1mm nozzle couldn't figure it out, or the file changed?

That wall is .85mm thick and has not changed.

[Rcmaveric]

Those T shafts shear easily. What cause me problems in the beginning. I chased motors and spring in the beginning and couldn't get anything to work. Come to find out I sheared the T shift. LOL live and learn. Wasted 4 months.

I print those T shafts at 100% infill. If I can turn the plate by hand then I sheared it.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[lablover]

Oh I understand now. Were you using the brass ramp for bullets? That could possibly contribute because of the ridge.

I’m using the correct ramp. When I get moving I’ll get some pics. I had the same issue with the AM feeder as well. I’m convinced it’s the short bullets causing it

[GWS]

In my experience, a lot of factors can cause hangs in the bullet drop area. Speed, size and shape of the drop hole, friction between bullet and base surface, and of course base angle.

You might have noticed that I was feeding my nose down design pretty darn fast.....it didn't happen without a lot of trial and error (plenty of error).

I finally got out my Dremel tool and black epoxy putty and started grinding in front of the drop hole. I didn't really increase the size of the hole itself, but it cut out the base 1/2" the direction of the coming bullets, down to the first layers of the base, and smoothed it out with epoxy putty. And really smoothed out the putty after it was past the sticky stage, with a wet finger. (to make it really smooth with no bumps, ridges. My next base printout will have that built-in.)

Why do all that? Because the bullet just couldn't drop fast enough to get out of the way of the next wall to wall bind. This allows the bullet to pre-drop half way....slide a half inch at the lower level, then drop quickly at speed.

The important part of the modification is it has to be glossy smooth or the bullet might fall sideways (being point down and unstable) and jam. I would expect less of that tendency base down. Just food for thought, and it sure worked for me. Base angle for my application was only 20 degrees, more in this case cause more problems. Base down is another matter.

I'll get out my camera today and take a picture of the modified drop.


https://youtu.be/hYQbHhBwRGI

[lablover]

Think I found my issue. New Collater plate is done and its hanging up again...Grrrr...What I found might be the issue. I have been using the large pistol bullet plate and also created one in openscad. I've been using the default shaft size and width for roll pin. Come to find out that my shaft diameter is 7.5 and the roll pin is 21.96 in width. So, that leaves a lot of play in the plate moving around the pin. I knew I should have went hex on this motor but it was already drilled and had a roll pin installed. Having that extra play allows the plate to move further away from the bowl walls and allows bullets to sneak in sideways........I think. I will tighten up those specs and print yet another plate and see what happens.

269981

[TylerR]

Think I found my issue. New Collater plate is done and its hanging up again...Grrrr...What I found might be the issue. I have been using the large pistol bullet plate and also created one in openscad. I've been using the default shaft size and width for roll pin. Come to find out that my shaft diameter is 7.5 and the roll pin is 21.96 in width. So, that leaves a lot of play in the plate moving around the pin. I knew I should have went hex on this motor but it was already drilled and had a roll pin installed. Having that extra play allows the plate to move further away from the bowl walls and allows bullets to sneak in sideways........I think. I will tighten up those specs and print yet another plate and see what happens.

269981

That makes sense. If there is a lot of play between the motor shaft and hole the plate will definitely move around. Looking at your picture, I would also reduce the diameter of the holes in the collator plate to something like 10.5-11mm. That will reduce the chance of those short bullets ending up sideways.

You would laugh if you saw my pile of old collator plates that are no good. Probably around 15 or so.

[lablover]

That makes sense. If there is a lot of play between the motor shaft and hole the plate will definitely move around. Looking at your picture, I would also reduce the diameter of the holes in the collator plate to something like 10.5-11mm. That will reduce the chance of those short bullets ending up sideways.

Good call. I was almost ready to hit print...LOL

EDIT:
I cant believe I didn't catch that the first time. I could hear the plate going boink boink boink and was wondering why. Caught it this time. One size does not fit all for sure. I dropped the hole size to 11mm and will see what happens. Might have to have a different plate for every bullet I shoot...LOL

[lablover]

Tyler, I'm confused... I printed the 9MMS drop tube tonight and in Cura I'm certain there was an outer wall around the top at the locking mechanism. But the print I am posting shows open?

Maybe my 1mm nozzle couldn't figure it out, or the file changed?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201023/7c71ad1af28e57a19bd9d867dca024a1.jpg

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk

I just printed the same tube and it printed fine. Thats with the latest Tyler upload. Just FYI

[TylerR]

Might have to have a different plate for every bullet I shoot...LOL

I sure hope not! But it is nice to know the option is always there to customize to your exact need. And I appreciate all the feedback on these issues, because maybe the stock settings could be tweaked to be more reliable with a wider range of bullet designs. For instance, right now that generator adds 1.2mm to the base caliber diameter. Perhaps that should be reduced to .8-1.0mm. The result would be less play for the bullet in the hole. Only downside is bullets may not fall in the holes as easily or quickly as they do with the larger setting.

[lablover]

In my experience, a lot of factors can cause hangs in the bullet drop area. Speed, size and shape of the drop hole, friction between bullet and base surface, and of course base angle.

You might have noticed that I was feeding my nose down design pretty darn fast.....it didn't happen without a lot of trial and error (plenty of error).

I finally got out my Dremel tool and black epoxy putty and started grinding in front of the drop hole. I didn't really increase the size of the hole itself, but it cut out the base 1/2" the direction of the coming bullets, down to the first layers of the base, and smoothed it out with epoxy putty. And really smoothed out the putty after it was past the sticky stage, with a wet finger. (to make it really smooth with no bumps, ridges. My next base printout will have that built-in.)

Why do all that? Because the bullet just couldn't drop fast enough to get out of the way of the next wall to wall bind. This allows the bullet to pre-drop half way....slide a half inch at the lower level, then drop quickly at speed.

The important part of the modification is it has to be glossy smooth or the bullet might fall sideways (being point down and unstable) and jam. I would expect less of that tendency base down. Just food for thought, and it sure worked for me. Base angle for my application was only 20 degrees, more in this case cause more problems. Base down is another matter.

I'll get out my camera today and take a picture of the modified drop.


https://youtu.be/hYQbHhBwRGI

Wow, you have that thing cruising!
I’ve never had much luck with lubed cast bullets. May have to revisit that as I favor my own cast over most anything else.

[o416]

Hi Tyler!

Did anybody try the JGY motor with your design? You mentioned that it was too weak to drive it, but I was wondering if that was based on actual testing.

Thx!

[GWS]

I haven't printed Tylers big base model yet, but based on my experience with the original size, it might slow down with a big load a little. I say that based on watching it slow down a little when lots of bullets are loaded and interaction between them cause extra friction.

On the other hand, when I was having issues with binds at speed at the drop hole like lablover was, (which encouraged me to modify the drop hole area) my little JGY motor just stopped.....I rushed over and cut the power, not being willing to burn motor out. Such happened several times until I made the fix in the base, but neither was the motor was hurt, nor did it wreck anything like the more powerful motor did with lablover. that's got to be a plus. My project uses the hex motor connection, not the pin.

I'm wondering, if my ears are so bad I couldn't hear the motor humming, or could that motor have it's own disconnect when the load goes too high? Sorry I couldn't tell, as wasn't willing to wait for the motor to burn out. ;)

I too am curious as to whether the little motor was actually tested on the big plate, and found wanting.

[lablover]

New plate worked great. No jams but still get a few bullets that don’t want to flip. Not a huge deal as nothing is 100% with these things. I think a slight modification to the ski ramp would help. I’ll try to get a video later today or tomorrow

[j_dude77]

TylerR,

I know you said you were going to work on rifle calibers eventually. I just wanted to let you know I printed the feeder and got it up and running. I used openscad to make a 556 plate. I used that plate and the Pistol_Bullet_Slide_Feed_Nose_Up plate and it worked fine. I just had to back the slide away from the base about 2mm. I am using 55gr fmjbt bullets, so with a flat base might not need the adjustment. Just thought you should know. Now I just need to figure out how to get the plate to stay in that spot. I know ammomike used a set screw.

**UPDATE** So using the normal hole multiplier of 1.5 proved to be too much. It would drop 2 to 3 bullets before the motor shut off completely. This would cause a jam at the top of the drop tube. I am in the process of printing a plate with a hole multiplier of 2.5. I will let you guys know how it turns out.

[lablover]

Tyler

I ran this slower than usual so I could record my issue. Not sure if you can do anything with the flipper plate or the ski ramp To eliminate the bullets not always turning. I hope this video captures my issue. I have the BF on my workbench at a pretty good angle as well. Does the same thing mounted to the press.



https://youtu.be/jKc9GMw5aDE

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler!

Did anybody try the JGY motor with your design? You mentioned that it was too weak to drive it, but I was wondering if that was based on actual testing.

Thx!

I did not actually print one and test it. I would say GWS pretty much hit the nail on the head. It would work for the most part, but I can say with confidence there will be a large speed difference between a full hopper and one mostly empty. If you are willing to test it out, its probably worth a try.

[TylerR]

TylerR,

I know you said you were going to work on rifle calibers eventually. I just wanted to let you know I printed the feeder and got it up and running. I used openscad to make a 556 plate. I used that plate and the Pistol_Bullet_Slide_Feed_Nose_Up plate and it worked fine. I just had to back the slide away from the base about 2mm. I am using 55gr fmjbt bullets, so with a flat base might not need the adjustment. Just thought you should know. Now I just need to figure out how to get the plate to stay in that spot. I know ammomike used a set screw.

**UPDATE** So using the normal hole multiplier of 1.5 proved to be too much. It would drop 2 to 3 bullets before the motor shut off completely. This would cause a jam at the top of the drop tube. I am in the process of printing a plate with a hole multiplier of 2.5. I will let you guys know how it turns out.

This is excellent feedback, thank you!

Question on the slide plate position. Did you set the distance of the slide by putting a screw in the back like I suggest, and its moving around on its own from that spot?

[TylerR]

Tyler

I ran this slower than usual so I could record my issue. Not sure if you can do anything with the flipper plate or the ski ramp To eliminate the bullets not always turning. I hope this video captures my issue. I have the BF on my workbench at a pretty good angle as well. Does the same thing mounted to the press.

I love video, makes it so much easier to understand the issue. Two things come to mind right away. First of all, the issue you are having would definitely be made worse the more angle you have on the feeder. So have you tried going to the other extreme with as little angle as possible? Second, what happens if you pull the slide plate out just slightly, so that the bullet is hitting the ramp higher up? If you pull it out too far the nose down bullets won't fall off the ridge, but there may be some room there to play around. Also, if that works for you, I can maybe post a new plate stl file that hits the ramp higher up and you can try it out.

[lablover]

I love video, makes it so much easier to understand the issue. Two things come to mind right away. First of all, the issue you are having would definitely be made worse the more angle you have on the feeder. So have you tried going to the other extreme with as little angle as possible? Second, what happens if you pull the slide plate out just slightly, so that the bullet is hitting the ramp higher up? If you pull it out too far the nose down bullets won't fall off the ridge, but there may be some room there to play around. Also, if that works for you, I can maybe post a new plate stl file that hits the ramp higher up and you can try it out.

Great minds think alike. I did pull the plate out just a bit and it helped a little but still has the issue. If I come out just a bit too far then the bullets won’t flip at all. I also tried different angle but no luck. I have no issues printing and testing anything you come up with.

I figured the video would explain it perfectly...hahaha

[TylerR]

Great minds think alike. I did pull the plate out just a bit and it helped a little but still has the issue. If I come out just a bit too far then the bullets won’t flip at all. I also tried different angle but no luck. I have no issues printing and testing anything you come up with.

I figured the video would explain it perfectly...hahaha

I just posted a different version of the large pistol slide. I moved the edge out 2mm, so it hits right at the middle of the ramp. If there is consensus this makes it more reliable for these short hollow points, I will make it a permanent change. Please try it out and let us know.

270088

[j_dude77]

This is excellent feedback, thank you!

Question on the slide plate position. Did you set the distance of the slide by putting a screw in the back like I suggest, and its moving around on its own from that spot?

I saw the spot for the screw after my original post. I used a #4 screw, it seems to be working good. I occasionally will have one bullet fall base down off the ledge, however it just rides up the ramp and falls back down into the others to be picked up again.

[lablover]

I just posted a different version of the large pistol slide. I moved the edge out 2mm, so it hits right at the middle of the ramp. If there is consensus this makes it more reliable for these short hollow points, I will make it a permanent change. Please try it out and let us know.

270088

will give it a shot..will report back tomorrow
thanks Tyler

[TylerR]

I saw the spot for the screw after my original post. I used a #4 screw, it seems to be working good. I occasionally will have one bullet fall base down off the ledge, however it just rides up the ramp and falls back down into the others to be picked up again.

Excellent! Boat tail will definitely be pickier then flat base. The cure I think would be to move the plate out another half mm or so. Should clear up those occasional mis-drops.
Once I get back at it I will hopefully get a 556 plate/slide combo that will be plug and play.

[TylerR]

will give it a shot..will report back tomorrow
thanks Tyler

:drinks:

[j_dude77]

Excellent! Boat tail will definitely be pickier then flat base. The cure I think would be to move the plate out another half mm or so. Should clear up those occasional mis-drops.
Once I get back at it I will hopefully get a 556 plate/slide combo that will be plug and play.

Here is a video. I think I am right on the edge with it. If I move it out further then the nose doesn't catch and flip. Will play with it more when I get the new plate printed up. Should be done by about 0600 tomorrow.


https://youtu.be/VtIvu9-5iCc

[lablover]

Here is a video. I think I am right on the edge with it. If I move it out further then the nose doesn't catch and flip. Will play with it more when I get the new plate printed up. Should be done by about 0600 tomorrow.


https://youtu.be/VtIvu9-5iCc

This is pretty awesome for sure! I have about 3K 62gr fmjBT heading my way in the mail and will be looking at this for sure to help load. BTW, my Wife loved the color!....LOL pretty nice. I see yet another plate on the printer real soon. My print head has developed a vibration sound and its making me crazy. I want to nail it down before I start anymore prints

Excellent Job!

[TylerR]

Here is a video. I think I am right on the edge with it. If I move it out further then the nose doesn't catch and flip. Will play with it more when I get the new plate printed up. Should be done by about 0600 tomorrow.


Cool video, looks great.
I agree, looks like the plate position is right on the line. Increasing the angle of the feeder in this scenario may prevent those base down ones from dropping.

[j_dude77]

I will play around with the angle. If the plate with the 2.5 hole spacing works out good, next will be a .308 plate. I was thinking if bullets keep hanging up in the bottom might try ribs or something to knock em around.

[j_dude77]

This is pretty awesome for sure! I have about 3K 62gr fmjBT heading my way in the mail and will be looking at this for sure to help load. BTW, my Wife loved the color!....LOL pretty nice. I see yet another plate on the printer real soon. My print head has developed a vibration sound and its making me crazy. I want to nail it down before I start anymore prints

Excellent Job!

That is that Overture Digital Blue that Tyler mentioned. Stuff prints beautifully. The gray is eSUN PLA Pro, it prints very well also. If I get it working good, I can send you the stl for the plate.

[lablover]

That is that Overture Digital Blue that Tyler mentioned. Stuff prints beautifully. The gray is eSUN PLA Pro, it prints very well also. If I get it working good, I can send you the stl for the plate.

Outstanding! Thank you

[Fil131]

Whomever used the casefeed mount and light sensor, did you have to lengthen the led and photosensor wires? Mine are too short, so chop and resolder is in order.

[lablover]

Whomever used the casefeed mount and light sensor, did you have to lengthen the led and photosensor wires? Mine are too short, so chop and resolder is in order.

Yes and yes. Then I used wire loom to wrap it all nice and neat. See the photos Tyler did. I went crazy like he did and used jst connection and xt connectors for the motor. Very clean

[j_dude77]

Whomever used the casefeed mount and light sensor, did you have to lengthen the led and photosensor wires? Mine are too short, so chop and resolder is in order.

I created a separate electronics box to house the photosensor switch which I mounted to the case feeder mount. Made it easier on the wiring.

[TylerR]

I will play around with the angle. If the plate with the 2.5 hole spacing works out good, next will be a .308 plate. I was thinking if bullets keep hanging up in the bottom might try ribs or something to knock em around.

There is absolutely no reason you couldn't add ridges to the bullet plates. They work well with the brass plates.
As soon as I read this I remembered, there is was a bug with the ridge code and changing the hole multiplier. So I just fixed the bug and posted it (v2.0.6). You will need the new version if you want to use ridges and a hole multiplier other then 1.5

Also to add, the bullets hanging out at the bottom only really happens when there is just a few left.

[GWS]

J_dude77: Very Nice!!!! Getting close to copying this. One thing I noticed is that towards the end bullets line up at the bottom of the plate and have a hard time leaving the bottom. I had the same thing happen on my "no ramp" collating of .45 boolits.

I cured it by drilling a single hole for a pin/wire/or nail between two of the bullet drop holes. I stuffed it with epoxy, and then dropped a pin in and let it dry. Then they can only line up for a minute....the pin knocks them away from the bottom and the collator empties.

Posting a frame from the video below....blurred because its moving fast but you can see how it would work.
270124

[TylerR]

J_dude77: Very Nice!!!! Getting close to copying this. One thing I noticed is that towards the end bullets line up at the bottom of the plate and have a hard time leaving the bottom. I had the same thing happen on my "no ramp" collating of .45 boolits.

I cured it by drilling a single hole for a pin/wire/or nail between two of the bullet drop holes. I stuffed it with epoxy, and then dropped a pin in and let it dry. Then they can only line up for a minute....the pin knocks them away from the bottom and the collator empties.

Posting a frame from the video below....blurred because its moving fast but you can see how it would work.


Cool solution, as always GWS.

[Fil131]

I created a separate electronics box to house the photosensor switch which I mounted to the case feeder mount. Made it easier on the wiring.

Any pictures j_dude? Or videos of everything running?

[lablover]

I just posted a different version of the large pistol slide. I moved the edge out 2mm, so it hits right at the middle of the ramp. If there is consensus this makes it more reliable for these short hollow points, I will make it a permanent change. Please try it out and let us know.

270088


Couldn’t resist, printed the new plate and gave it a try..........VICTORY! 100% better. I’ll sleep well tonight!

Now to tackle .32 acp and 5.56.
Well done Tyler well done.
I wouldn’t replace the original one you have, maybe just add this one as a short fat bullet option. Lol

[TylerR]

Couldn’t resist, printed the new plate and gave it a try..........VICTORY! 100% better. I’ll sleep well tonight!

Now to tackle .32 acp and 5.56.
Well done Tyler well done.
I wouldn’t replace the original one you have, maybe just add this one as a short fat bullet option. Lol

Sweet! I think I will just make the adjustment. That is how the brass plates are set up.

[j_dude77]

Any pictures j_dude? Or videos of everything running?

When I build the one for my Star Sizer I will take pictures, do a full assembly and include part numbers. The control board I got included the rheostat and on/off/reverse switch. I modified Tyler's electronics box for that switch setup, you can kinda see it in the video. I also added standoffs so you can secure the board to the lid. I had to add two more standoffs for the +/- wiring. When I plug it in, it powers the two boards. The switch and rheostat just work the motor. Before I had everything on the power switch and rheostat. Problem with that was, if you turned it down too much, the switch would not work. I had to wire it a little different to get everything to work right.

[Fil131]

Here is a video. I think I am right on the edge with it. If I move it out further then the nose doesn't catch and flip. Will play with it more when I get the new plate printed up. Should be done by about 0600 tomorrow.


https://youtu.be/VtIvu9-5iCc


This is pretty awesome for sure! I have about 3K 62gr fmjBT heading my way in the mail and will be looking at this for sure to help load. BTW, my Wife loved the color!....LOL pretty nice. I see yet another plate on the printer real soon. My print head has developed a vibration sound and its making me crazy. I want to nail it down before I start anymore prints

Excellent Job!


I will play around with the angle. If the plate with the 2.5 hole spacing works out good, next will be a .308 plate. I was thinking if bullets keep hanging up in the bottom might try ribs or something to knock em around.

I started running 223 tests with HPFB varmint bullets, I can run it pretty fast but if they fall too fast into the LED sensor tube they jam at the top, I started running the motor at just a bit higher than barely on to slow the feed. A little work on the top of the LED feed tube would most likely help otherwise it's running great.

[TylerR]

I started running 223 tests with HPFB varmint bullets, I can run it pretty fast but if they fall too fast into the LED sensor tube they jam at the top, I started running the motor at just a bit higher than barely on to slow the feed. A little work on the top of the LED feed tube would most likely help otherwise it's running great.

I just took another look at the drop tubes, and I see the 6mm and 8mm were both setup to allow use of the larger spring. I am sure this was contributing to this issue. I just posted a new version with modifications to those drop tubes. Please let us know if it resolves this issue.

[TylerR]

v1.0.7 is up. It has the changes mentioned in the last two pages, including the collator generator, slide plates, and drop tubes.

[TylerR]

Curious what did you guys plug in for the caliber when you created you .223/5.56 plates? I am thinking I will generate plates for .223 / .308 and create the slides for them so you can try them out.

[lablover]

Curious what did you guys plug in for the caliber when you created you .223/5.56 plates?

Here we go...round two! Lol, I’ll be watching this. Also looking forward to j dude pics and videos. That electronic box has me interested

[lablover]

v1.0.7 is up. It has the changes mentioned in the last two pages, including the collator generator, slide plates, and drop tubes.

Tyler, have you run the new flipper plate thru cura yet? I printed it yesterday and noticed in cura it add a odd seam along the top. I printed it anyway and it worked excellent but was curious why cura adds that seam. Could be my settings?

[r4ndy]

Wow, lot's of activity the last few months! I have built 3 AmmoMike feeders using the Greartisan motors. Link to Motor (https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Electric-Reduction-Eccentric-Diameter/dp/B072KNG6NT/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=Greartisan+DC+12V+15RPM&dchild=1&keywords=Greartisan+DC+12V+15RPM&pd_rd_i=B072KNG6NT&pd_rd_r=37b9cab0-1735-4d2e-8478-cf8b49fe7668&pd_rd_w=68dT2&pd_rd_wg=uwGwm&pf_rd_p=d8781cb2-590e-4599-9299-188f35162ede&pf_rd_r=ACDCGGD9GSDZ6NAB71WM&psc=1&qid=1603635255&sr=1-1-791c2399-d602-4248-afbb-8a79de2d236f).

I am looking to make a case collator for 9, 45 and 223 and another feeder. The motor I listed is $14 on Amazon, I am wondering why folks are using the McMaster motor which is 4X the price. I have read all the new posts since May and searched and from what I can tell for Tyler's design it is the McMaster motor or one from Aliexpress which is just as pricey after shipping. Any motor options below the $60 range?

[Michael303]

Wow, lot's of activity the last few months! I have built 3 AmmoMike feeders using the Greartisan motors. Link to Motor (https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Electric-Reduction-Eccentric-Diameter/dp/B072KNG6NT/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=Greartisan+DC+12V+15RPM&dchild=1&keywords=Greartisan+DC+12V+15RPM&pd_rd_i=B072KNG6NT&pd_rd_r=37b9cab0-1735-4d2e-8478-cf8b49fe7668&pd_rd_w=68dT2&pd_rd_wg=uwGwm&pf_rd_p=d8781cb2-590e-4599-9299-188f35162ede&pf_rd_r=ACDCGGD9GSDZ6NAB71WM&psc=1&qid=1603635255&sr=1-1-791c2399-d602-4248-afbb-8a79de2d236f).

I am looking to make a case collator for 9, 45 and 223 and another feeder. The motor I listed is $14 on Amazon, I am wondering why folks are using the McMaster motor which is 4X the price. I have read all the new posts since May and searched and from what I can tell for Tyler's design it is the McMaster motor or one from Aliexpress which is just as pricey after shipping. Any motor options below the $60 range?

Probably the biggest reason is that it's a known quantity and readily available. For people modeling for new motors, it takes a lot of time and effort to design a new base for a new motor.

The torque listed on the motor you linked to is 15 kg-cm which converts to about 13 in-lbs whereas the McMaster motor is 40 in-lbs. I've loaded 200 147g 9mm bullets in my feeder and it didn't bat an eye.

I also went with the McMaster motor so I could use it with the DAA all metal hanger.

[TylerR]

Tyler, have you run the new flipper plate thru cura yet? I printed it yesterday and noticed in cura it add a odd seam along the top. I printed it anyway and it worked excellent but was curious why cura adds that seam. Could be my settings?

Which part specifically are we talking about? If its the brass base up plate then yes there is a level change on the top.

[TylerR]

Wow, lot's of activity the last few months! I have built 3 AmmoMike feeders using the Greartisan motors.
I am looking to make a case collator for 9, 45 and 223 and another feeder. The motor I listed is $14 on Amazon, I am wondering why folks are using the McMaster motor which is 4X the price. I have read all the new posts since May and searched and from what I can tell for Tyler's design it is the McMaster motor or one from Aliexpress which is just as pricey after shipping. Any motor options below the $60 range?


Probably the biggest reason is that it's a known quantity and readily available. For people modeling for new motors, it takes a lot of time and effort to design a new base for a new motor.

The torque listed on the motor you linked to is 15 kg-cm which converts to about 13 in-lbs whereas the McMaster motor is 40 in-lbs. I've loaded 200 147g 9mm bullets in my feeder and it didn't bat an eye.

I also went with the McMaster motor so I could use it with the DAA all metal hanger.

Bingo. I just created a new base to match this motor here:
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

[lablover]

Which part specifically are we talking about? If its the brass base up plate then yes there is a level change on the top.
The special plate you made last night for the short hollow point bullets.

Mouse cursor points to seam

270149

[TylerR]

The special plate you made last night for the short hollow point bullets.

Mouse cursor points to seam


I have not actually printed it yet, but the only thing different is the small change I made. Looking at it again, the original part, the stl, and loaded in Cura I don't see any seem. Can you snap a pic?

That is very odd. This is what it looks like in Cura for me.

270150

[lablover]

I have not actually printed it yet, but the only thing different is the small change I made. Looking at it again, the original part, the stl, and loaded in Cura I don't see any seem. Can you snap a pic?

The original plate is fine, the new one you moved the ledge 2mm I believe and now that seam shows up. Not a big deal as it still works fine but makes the top level not as smooth. Heading in to take a pic of printed plate. Looks just like the pic I took in cura

If you drop it in cura then click preview you will see it

Edit
Pic
270151

[lablover]

I have not actually printed it yet, but the only thing different is the small change I made. Looking at it again, the original part, the stl, and loaded in Cura I don't see any seem. Can you snap a pic?

That is very odd. This is what it looks like in Cura for me.

270150

Yea, that’s odd for sure. I’m using cura 4.6.1

[TylerR]

The original plate is fine, the new one you moved the ledge 2mm I believe and now that seam shows up. Not a big deal as it still works fine but makes the top level not as smooth. Heading in to take a pic of printed plate. Looks just like the pic I took in cura

If you drop it in cura then click preview you will see it


I have no clue why that is showing up for you. I am not seeing it. I just re-exported the stl and uploaded it. Can you see if it looks any different in Cura?

Just checked, I am on 4.6.0

[lablover]

I have no clue why that is showing up for you. I am not seeing it. I just re-exported the stl and uploaded it. Can you see if it looks any different in Cura?

Just checked, I am on 4.6.0

Thanks for checking, it’s clearly a issue on my end in cura. I’m not gonna loose sleep over it for sure.

I will re check the newest upload and see

[TylerR]

Thanks for checking, it’s clearly a issue on my end in cura. I’m not gonna loose sleep over it for sure.

I will re check the newest upload and see

I am downloading the latest Cura (4.7.1) and will test.

[lablover]

I am downloading the latest Cura (4.7.1) and will test.

Good luck, I tried 4.7 and it prints pretty bad. 4.8 beta is out already

EDIT:

Tried the new one...still does it. HOWEVER, when I run it thru Cura for the Ender 3 printer it does not show up. Must be a setting in my CR10S setting and not the ender 3. Guess I'll print it on the Ender 3.

Edit Again:
Just figured it out. I set the profile to Fine Resolution 1.6 and the line shows up. At 2.0 resolution its gone.....things that make ya go hmmmmmm

[TylerR]

Good luck, I tried 4.7 and it prints pretty bad. 4.8 beta is out already

EDIT:

Tried the new one...still does it. HOWEVER, when I run it thru Cura for the Ender 3 printer it does not show up. Must be a setting in my CR10S setting and not the ender 3. Guess I'll print it on the Ender 3.

Sh$t now you tell me. Too late. Haha. Hopefully 4.7.1 is better then 4.7.0?

I installed 4.7.1 and loaded it up in preview and still not there.
So it shows up on one printer and not the other? I am stumped. I wonder if anyone else will see it.

[lablover]

Sh$t now you tell me. Too late. Haha. Hopefully 4.7.1 is better then 4.7.0?

I installed 4.7.1 and loaded it up in preview and still not there.
So it shows up on one printer and not the other? I am stumped. I wonder if anyone else will see it.

Re read my post, I added some more info. I'm a idiot!

BTW, you might get it to print fine in 4.7 who knows

[TylerR]

Re read my post, I added some more info. I'm a idiot!

BTW, you might get it to print fine in 4.7 who knows

Not at all! It's not really anything you are doing. I will play around with settings in Cura, but even if I can reproduce it I have no idea why it would happen, because there is nothing there in the original design.

[Fil131]

Curious what did you guys plug in for the caliber when you created you .223/5.56 plates? I am thinking I will generate plates for .223 / .308 and create the slides for them so you can try them out.

I used 5.56 which is what you had listed on the generator I believe.

[lablover]

Not at all! It's not really anything you are doing. I will play around with settings in Cura, but even if I can reproduce it I have no idea why it would happen, because there is nothing there in the original design.

I think it has something to do with the setting being divisible by .4 nozzle

[TylerR]

I used 5.56 which is what you had listed on the generator I believe.

That was partly why I was asking. The samples in there (which are carry over from what AM originally had) are:

description=".223";
caliber=5.66; //caliber

description=".308";
caliber=7.82; //caliber

I am thinking I will set those to 5.56mm and 7.62mm and generate the plates, since it's going to add another 1.2mm anyway. Then I will create the slide plates to match.

[Fil131]

That was partly why I was asking. The samples in there (which are carry over from what AM originally had) are:

description=".223";
caliber=5.66; //caliber

description=".308";
caliber=7.82; //caliber

I am thinking I will set those to 5.56mm and 7.62mm and generate the plates, since it's going to add another 1.2mm anyway. Then I will create the slide plates to match.

Yup, sorry not in front of my computer to verify but I used what was in the generator so it was 5.66. I also made a 30Cal plate but haven't ran it yet.

[TylerR]

OK, another question for the group. Who thinks I should add ridges to these stock rifle bullet plates? I have not actually tested it myself yet. In theory it should just help keep them moving around in the hopper better. Anyone see any downside? Would look like this:

270154

[j_dude77]

Curious what did you guys plug in for the caliber when you created you .223/5.56 plates? I am thinking I will generate plates for .223 / .308 and create the slides for them so you can try them out.

5.66 for the 223. I will try the 7.82 for .308 and see how it works out.

TylerR,

I put the scad file for the collator plate I made here.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pE09TMLsKSUMmPPmYWadcRQ3rQKHHUJL/view?usp=sharing

[j_dude77]

I am downloading the latest Cura (4.7.1) and will test.

I moved away from Cura a long time ago. The newer versions were too buggy. i use Prusa Slicer now. The stock profiles for the Ender3 are pretty good. I have an Ender 5 Plus and only had to tweak the profile a bit to get it going.

[j_dude77]

I just took another look at the drop tubes, and I see the 6mm and 8mm were both setup to allow use of the larger spring. I am sure this was contributing to this issue. I just posted a new version with modifications to those drop tubes. Please let us know if it resolves this issue.

Thanks. Will give it a try.

[j_dude77]

OK, another question for the group. Who thinks I should add ridges to these stock rifle bullet plates? I have not actually tested it myself yet. In theory it should just help keep them moving around in the hopper better. Anyone see any downside? Would look like this:

270154

TylerR,

I was looking at the same thing last night. Let me throw up a video of the one I did with the 2.5 hole spacing. Works much better.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IC5BjagSCvc


https://youtu.be/jdyJvXrG_GE

[lablover]

I moved away from Cura a long time ago. The newer versions were too buggy. i use Prusa Slicer now. The stock profiles for the Ender3 are pretty good. I have an Ender 5 Plus and only had to tweak the profile a bit to get it going.

Good call on Prusa slicer. Been playing with it myself. Cura is getting bloated for sure

[j_dude77]

Good call on Prusa slicer. Been playing with it myself. Cura is getting bloated for sure

Let me know if you go down that road. I have about 8 filament profiles and 3 for the printer itself. One thing to make sure of in Prusa Slicer is uncheck detect bridging perimeters in the printer settings. That caused me all kinds of hell when printing the threads in the drop tube adapters.

[r4ndy]

Bingo. I just created a new base to match this motor here:
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

Thanks - I'll give this one a try.

[lablover]

Let me know if you go down that road. I have about 8 filament profiles and 3 for the printer itself. One thing to make sure of in Prusa Slicer is uncheck detect bridging perimeters in the printer settings. That caused me all kinds of hell when printing the threads in the drop tube adapters.

Excellent, I also have raw creality cr10s but only been messing with the ender 3 in Prusa slicer. Thanks for the bridging tip