Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

I use TylerR's #11 long rifle bullet plate for long bullets and many other ones as well.....yes unchanged for skinnier calibers as well. Didn't seem to care.....wondering what you did exactly to change it? Or maybe you just need to increase the angle?

https://i.postimg.cc/Qx5W8BMt/IMG-3820.jpg

[Mbeavers1]

I didnt change it. The collator plate itself worked ok, but 2ea 6mm bullets will fit in the slots (problem 1).

The bigger issue is more with the long bullet slide plate. The angled ramp tends to drag the bullets down into the 'tray' (problem 2). I have it tilted at more that 45deg. The bullets also sometime tip over into the gap between the collator plate and the ramp in the slide plate. Were you using the #11 long bullet slide plate? Below is a video of what happens.


https://youtu.be/ZnIgtSnJYd8

[GWS]

I have not tried 243 that long.....but in the video it sure 'looks' like they are falling forward away from the "back" wall of the slot....and the ramp is finishing it off rather than flipping it. Maybe TylerR has an answer for you.

I did have to use the second ramp during my first attempt at 30 caliber for some bullets....which tilting still more fixed. This whole thing is seat of the pants, trial and error for sure. The video below illustrates my first attempt and the sometimes double flip:


https://youtu.be/45UuAHejov8

[Mbeavers1]

Yea these bullets are long! �� I have a modified collator printing now with the slot width shrunk. The slides wont go all the way thru but there wont be much material there so I plan to either dremel it or use a box cutter. I think if I can get only one bullet on the slot, then I can make the ramp work. Will advise.

[GWS]

Super Mario asked me by private message to explain the parts needed for a proximity sensor when mounted high under the collator rather than the method of using the long drop tube just above the bullet feeder die. I thought others might want info about that option, too, especially from those using Dillon's 1100 which can get crowded fast above the moving die plate. So here's what to do if you need it....First screw in the Drop Hole Adapter into the underside of the collator:
https://i.postimg.cc/rwfjzxxy/Drop-Hole-Adapter.jpg
make sure you mount this part with the locator hole facing the front of the collator so the prox will twist-lock rotated to the back when it's mounted. And the following prox housing and threads are then angled back so the bullets fall and ride against the sensor.

Next print the Prox. housing and thread insert:

https://i.postimg.cc/x8VyBRD5/Proximity-Housing.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/tJdtbx9j/Prox-thread-insert.jpg

Sip the housing and thread assembly over the downtube. The housing's tee, where the threads go in, should end up pointing to the back when the housing is slipped over the Down Tube and twist locked....make sure the two slots are down, toward the downtube, so that they slip over the downtube's knobs....
It actually is easier to thread the thread insert into the Prox switch before you push the threads into the housing...Prox switch end should end up against the "flat" of the downtube....and the downtube will be angled so that bullets will ride down closest to the Prox.

https://i.postimg.cc/gJZHM75r/Drop-Tube-11-ALT.jpg

make sure you print the shorter "Alt" version of the Drop-Tube if it's going to be mounted above the spring....and print the one sized for your caliber. (for 9mm I use #11) The long version Drop-Tubes are so you can have a stack of bullets to feed near the bullet feeder die and the spring is therefore empty. IOW's the Prox switch fills the downtube then turns off. With it mounted high and above the spring...it turns off with the spring and shorter downtube full.....different totally.

So once the prox in it's housing is dropped over the downtube, you can twist attach the downtube under the collator.
Next mount the springtubing to the two tubing ends....the top one is pictured next....then the springtube....then the bottom one
https://i.postimg.cc/1z4HFXrG/Spring-Adapter-11.jpg -Spring- https://i.postimg.cc/pVKBzgz6/Spring-Adapter-11-Bottom.jpg

These parts are numbered too....I found the #11's in those parts also worked best for the Spring I use for 9mm.

Finally twist-lock the Spring-Drop-Tube-Medium to the drop tube bottom and the 9mm bullet feed die under that.

https://i.postimg.cc/yN5TyKLw/Spring-Drop-Tube-Medium-Adapter.jpg

The top opening in the 9mm bullet feeder die is just a little smaller than the Medium Spring drop tube adapter....so use a file, knife, or something to open the edge with a small bevel to prevent bullets from hanging there sometimes. Below...the finished interface to the press, showing the spring, the bottom spring adapter, the Spring-Drop-Tube-Medium-Adapter, and finally the bullet feeder die.

https://i.postimg.cc/rFsD9JvT/IMG-4113.jpg

And YES, the springtube will fill with bullets, but I've, so far, never seen a problem with that, if you use a good spring. This is the one I used for 9mm.....(you can stretch it so to see bullets inside or not....but don't stretch too much or the spring will catch bullet edges)

What I used and like for 9mm: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/springs/spring-type~extension/corrosion-resistant-extension-spring-stock/

https://i.postimg.cc/PrpKNPK1/spring.jpg

[MSUICEMAN]

That's exactly what I do, too. I have it up top, definitely for brass, but oftentimes for sizing bullets too.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Thought I'd share one more picture....and it might create a question or too since it isn't precisely what I preached already....notice the 9mm and the #10 spring end adapter. I said #11 in the last post. Well the one pictured here is another spring.....I recommend you print more than one size adapter and use the one that fits the spring you end up using best.......there's no absolutes.

https://i.postimg.cc/vZ7713vd/IMG_4101.jpg

springs are different and each spring end adapter is different.....the #10's hole will be just a tad smaller than the #11. Then you have to deal with the part below it....and it comes in small medium and large. Well Medium as you see in the picture is used for both 9mm and .40, but .45 uses the Large......then the bullet feed die also has difference inside hole sizes from the other two parts. So pay attention, and if you have hanging bullets, try another spring end size, or chamfer the feed die's top hole so there's no ridges. (the little devil that ran my brain, the day I took this picture, put the .40S&W bullet feed die upside down just to confuse you and me. Sorry)

And always, if you use a file, grinding stone or exacto knife to chamfer.....smooth the area with ACETONE. The goal is smooth sailing all the way for the bullets.....these are no final out of the box tools...you have just a little work to do, to finish things.;)

Keep in mind, that there is not a lot of difference size wise between .40 and 9mm. So #10 or #11...#11 works fine for both, but #10 is too small for the .40.....I tend to go the least resistance with fewer parts.....

Oh and what's that stuff using the #14 on the left? That's used for my RCBS Pro 2000 homemade case feeder.....45ACP version. Yeah, I use TylerR's collator for that too.

Cast Boolits will be glad for me to retire from all this......look at all the bandwidth I hog.....

[Mbeavers1]

I seem to have mostly fixed it. I did modify the collator plate. The changes were to change caliber to 6.2mm (vs the 7.82mm of the #11) in OpenSCAD. This did create a little artifact at the end of the slide 1 layer thick that I had to remove with a razor knife. The definitely solved the multiple bullet feeding issue. There were still some flipping issues.

1.) The shallower slots for the bullets pushed the bullets past the lip of the slide tray so the base down (correctly oriented) bullets fell into the tray. I added a small screw in the back of the slide plate and adjusted until there was enough lip to keep them from falling.

2) Bullets were still getting pulled into the tray. I found this is related to speed. If I slow the collator down, this seems to correct itself. I dont see this being an issue becaue I will be manually dumping powder on these rounds so the speed wont hurt.

Once I get the rest of the kinks worked out, ill send another video.

[Mbeavers1]

Here is my revised Long Rifle Collator plate running .223" 88gr ELD-Ms (very long 22 cal bullets). It runs my 6mm (243 cal) Berger 109 LRHTs great too. As mentioned, I did have to adjust the slide plate position.


https://youtu.be/8t6kkzodJD0

[GWS]

Success is fun! ;) Congratulations! So what width did you end up with in the holes? And how did the slide position change....pulled it out how much?

[Sgt Beer Belly]

Hey guys I'm not great with FreeCad or any of the 3d software out there, does anyone know what the easiest way to remove 40mm from the center of the droptubes, and also make the bottom solid with a hole that's 13.5mm, I would like to attach the droptubes to the lee bullet feeder dies.

Thanks

315803

[Gillie Dog]

I have adapted them to the Lee bullet feed dies in TinkerCad. The part below the window is a little shorter, the Lee dies differ in how much it sticking above the spring nut, and put a slit in them to allow adding a clamp if necessary. Also filled in the photo eye holes since I do not use them

I have only tested three of them so far.

If you wish I can send you one in .stl to test.

315804

Well since I had cut the #9 up to make a 12" tall one to test with more weight pushing the bullet into the case here is short ones.

315805

GD

[Sgt Beer Belly]

I have adapted them to the Lee bullet feed dies in TinkerCad. The part below the window is a little shorter, the Lee dies differ in how much it sticking above the spring nut, and put a slit in them to allow adding a clamp if necessary. Also filled in the photo eye holes since I do not use them

I have only tested three of them so far.

If you wish I can send you one in .stl to test.



GD

Thanks that would be awesome !

[Gillie Dog]

Thanks that would be awesome !

Sgt,

Attached 11mm Drop Tube for you to test.

Cannot for the life of me figure out how to send stuff in private messages, probably can not.

GD

PS: Have not tested that one. Looks good in Cura slicer.

315835

[Sgt Beer Belly]

Sgt,

Attached 11mm Drop Tube for you to test.

Cannot for the life of me figure out how to send stuff in private messages, probably can not.

GD

PS: Have not tested that one. Looks good in Cura slicer.

315835

Gillie I farted around a bit was also able to make one on Tinkercad, I added tabs for screws incase anyone wants to try it

[Gillie Dog]

You are off and running now, have fun............

GD

[r4ndy]

Sorry for short notice Amazon has overture PLA pro for $16-18/roll for next few min. I got some Dillon blue for $31 for two pack.

[Super_Mario]

Is anyone able to share the spring adapter thread specs for a size 11 adapter. I am braving into the world of playing with modifying stls and would like to play with modifying a drop Tube and want to attempt adding threads.

[GWS]

Is anyone able to share the spring adapter thread specs for a size 11 adapter. I am braving into the world of playing with modifying stls and would like to play with modifying a drop Tube and want to attempt adding threads.

TylerR is the best at making threads....you may have to be patient as he is hooked up to his eyebrows with youth league baseball coaching right now. ;) But that's probably going to end fairly soon. That said, modifying .stls to add threads is something I would not take on....don't even know if it can be done. Source code before they are made into .stls, is another thing....very possible.

But the first bit of info we need is which software you are using to make the cad file......I've been using his spring-end adapters that have worked for everything I have needed....what are you needing different? One more thing I will say is that he has told me that it took a lot of trial and error.....until he found the right mix of specs. Software-wise I think he has used Design Spark Mechanical to make them and such isn't too convertible to other software......I had to learn DSM so to be able to modify.....cut and paste....and so on......there are lots of how-to's on the web on making threads....I've probably tried them all. Some work better than others....can of worms to be sure. I'm sorry to say, I did not document anything too well....Press tool head threads there is some, but you'll have to ask TylerR on the springs-ends he made.

[Super_Mario]

That’s extremely helpful. To be quite honest, I hadn’t really settled on a software which is probably the first issue. I had been playing with tinkercad and then started playing with fusion 360 free version and I’m still lost in the sauce.

As for what I’d like to do? Primarily tinker, when I got into 3d printing I never thought I’d want to do any design work but with this project, I’d like to create my own drop tube, play with diff proximity sensors, which is resulting in me looking at how I create a thread or design the spring adapter design so I could then have all these parts mate up to my own drop tube.

I guess to answer the question, mostly I just want to tinker and everything else seems a little straight forward. Threads and designing these mounts however seems a little over my head, but I’d like to learn.

[GWS]

Which slicer are you using.....

I guess I must be an odd ball, as it seems most use different slicers than I do (IdeaMaker)....yeah not the usual people pick....I just like the menus system better, and I get great prints 98% of the time. And there ARE a few things you can do with it to modify .STL files on the fly........not like a cad program to be sure, but it's convenient for some things.

For example, I was able to take this .stl in TylerR's collection (#11 spring top adapter), and cut off the twist connect just leaving the "handle" with the threads inside....using the "free cut" command....and moving the cutter plane just right. When I did this, it leaves two models instead of one....both with errors since doing such a cut leaves raw edges and holes. But IdeaMaker has an "autorepair" feature that repairs the cut edges.

https://i.postimg.cc/yYQzjd3Q/Spring-Adapter-11-Bottom.jpg

So I erased the half of the model I didn't want.....should have exported it...to maybe use that twist connect for something else....but I didn't. Then I "auto-repaired" the handle/threads, and exported it to it's own .stl file. Now it looks like this:

https://i.postimg.cc/ZRWMyBc4/11-THREAD.jpg

To this, the slicer can import another model and combine that model with these threads.....a slightly dirty process, but it can be done. Pay attention to the x,y,z locations to center and connect them.

Can other slicers to the same thing.....most likely.....but I have never used them so you'll have to experiment with yours, or others reading this, using other slicers will surely chime in soon....;)

That said, a better way is to make new source code....cad drawing....that you then convert to a .stl to print. Then you have a source code to change spring size and/or add new drawing files for each spring size or thread application.......there....clear as mud....here's just the thread and handle in .stl, you can join with something else if you want to try that.....

315966

[Gillie Dog]

This is GWS's #11 threaded part stuffed on top of a #11 drop tube removing twist lock in TinkerCad. TylerR's Spring Adapters are to large to import into TinkerCad but GWS's modified part worked fine. I am just learning TinkerCad and might not stick with it, we will see.

Really do not know what you are looking to do but this is an example.

315982


GD

[GWS]

So you used the little half part I just posted?....and got rid of the finger grip around it? Didn't know you could do that with a stl file in Tinkercad.

[Gillie Dog]

So you used the little half part I just posted?....and got rid of the finger grip around it? Didn't know you could do that with a stl file in Tinkercad.

Sort of, real simple but took several steps. Yes the half little part would import into TinkerCad. Probably because however you saved it to stl made it small enough to import. I tried making TylerR's smaller in Cura slicer and was still to big to import into TinkerCad.

Took yours, made a male thread from your part by making your part a "hole" and grouping it with the correct size solid to match the drop tube. Then made a new female threaded part the correct size by making the new male thread a "hole" and grouping it with another 22mm solid. Then set it on top of TylerR's drop tube, moved it down to fill in the twist lock to just touch the cone and grouped those together and that made the part shown. It is a smidge taller than TylerR's drop tube to keep the threads the same length/height (probably not needed but was size started with)

Once I had done it could be done again in probably less than 5 minutes, first time probably took 15 minutes figuring out how to do it with the limitations of TinkerCad. Changing solids to a "hole"/negative of the part is a function of TinkerCad. Any selected part can be changed to a "negative" and then added ("grouped") to a "solid" to make a new female part/object. It is nice slicing a part open to look at it by grouping it to a hole, inspecting the part, ungrouping the part, deleting the hole and you have the original part again. TinkerCad saves all the pieces until exported as stl it looks like, you can ungroup a part several times and end up with all the original parts needed to make the new part/object.

Long winded answer but that is how it was done.

Edited to add: Writing this made me think of a better/faster way to make the threaded part to set on top of the drop tube. Took one minute and just two steps to remove the outside/finger grip of your little part................................. Whole thing could be done in a couple minutes now.

Fun and games for an old guy, keeps mind active you know.

GD

[TylerR]

Sort of, real simple but took several steps. Yes the half little part would import into TinkerCad. Probably because however you saved it to stl made it small enough to import. I tried making TylerR's smaller in Cura slicer and was still to big to import into TinkerCad.

Took yours, made a male thread from your part by making your part a "hole" and grouping it with the correct size solid to match the drop tube. Then made a new female threaded part the correct size by making the new male thread a "hole" and grouping it with another 22mm solid. Then set it on top of TylerR's drop tube, moved it down to fill in the twist lock to just touch the cone and grouped those together and that made the part shown. It is a smidge taller than TylerR's drop tube to keep the threads the same length/height (probably not needed but was size started with)

Once I had done it could be done again in probably less than 5 minutes, first time probably took 15 minutes figuring out how to do it with the limitations of TinkerCad. Changing solids to a "hole"/negative of the part is a function of TinkerCad. Any selected part can be changed to a "negative" and then added ("grouped") to a "solid" to make a new female part/object. It is nice slicing a part open to look at it by grouping it to a hole, inspecting the part, ungrouping the part, deleting the hole and you have the original part again. TinkerCad saves all the pieces until exported as stl it looks like, you can ungroup a part several times and end up with all the original parts needed to make the new part/object.

Long winded answer but that is how it was done.

Edited to add: Writing this made me think of a better/faster way to make the threaded part to set on top of the drop tube. Took one minute and just two steps to remove the outside/finger grip of your little part................................. Whole thing could be done in a couple minutes now.

Fun and games for an old guy, keeps mind active you know.

GD

That is very cool Gillie. I have not taken the time to learn Tinkercad to do any of that. I did not realize it was that capable. Unfortunately Design Spark has forced everyone to upgrade to a new version, and from what GWS has told me, and I have read, the new version kinda sucks. So I have not upgraded or done any design work in months.

[GWS]

That is very cool Gillie. I have not taken the time to learn Tinkercad to do any of that. I did not realize it was that capable. Unfortunately Design Spark has forced everyone to upgrade to a new version, and from what GWS has told me, and I have read, the new version kinda sucks. So I have not upgraded or done any design work in months.

Tyler....I've gotten used to the new version.....not quite as bad as I first thought. It still works, but once you upgrade, the old files save to a new format that the old version won't load and there is no going back. So keep a copy.....and they no longer support the old version. I get the feeling they are going the direction of other companies, trying to weed out those using the free version. :roll: Do pay attention to the setup.....some things have changed.....some even for the better. They still have file size issues. Something's wrong with those guys....they actually think they need to make money! :)

Gillie.....so TinkerCad works with the .stl? directly?......as in "editable"? If so I may have to look at it......cloud software?....or do you download it?

[Gillie Dog]

Gillie.....so TinkerCad works with the .stl? directly?......as in "editable"? If so I may have to look at it......cloud software?....or do you download it?

Sort of. You do not actually "edit" the stl. Not like AutoCad I used to run. You can "manipulate" it.

You can remove/delete sections/pieces, punch holes of any shape in it, add solid pieces shaped to what you want, is what I have learned so far. You build what you want and group/add it to existing part. Like you can make a negative of TylerR's twist lock and put it in any part you want. I am sure there is a lot more you can get it to do also.

Free cloud based software.

Below on left is TylerR's Small Spring Drop Tube, next one is adapted to 30 cal Lee bullet feeder, the others go through 45 cal. The cone was changed on each to match Lee bullet feeder size and changing cone size took seconds for each size. Made a solid to fit into drop tube, put a truncated cone in it as a "hole" and changed top and bottom radius of cone to make each size. Hard part was putting the number/lettering on the front replacing the letters there (not shown) Like said, just learning...

315994


GD

[GWS]

I've used Autocad for 50 years now....so that's what I turn to most naturally. But I also gave Fusion 360 a shot and found it to be powerful, but not any easier than Autocad. Then I joined TylerR's forum when AmmoMike quit the project.....and in the interest of helping out here, I started to learn the free version of DesignSpark so I could collaborate better with Tyler's effort. Apples and Oranges different in every way.....so for this old salt, it's hard to learn and remember, being programmed to design the Autocad way. Never tried TinkerCad....thinking it was too limited. I'll most likely download it to see what I'm missing......sometimes simpler is the right tool.

https://i.postimg.cc/7PcFXgsv/9mm-feed-die-cross-section.jpg

As you can see, I also played with Spring Drop Tube inside beveling trying to make my 9mm's drop 100% into the 3D printed bullet feeder. I was having small bullets lean where the bevel is wide and causing some hanging.

So looking at the illustration above, since you're having to make so many Spring Drop Tubes for different calibers anyway, I can see merit in combining the spring adapter and the Spring Drop tube into one part. But then you'd have to take apart the spring tube for every caliber.....always a "but then". I'm always looking for ways to use multi-use parts in various calibers. I use the same springtube, certainly, for more than one caliber.....

[Gillie Dog]

As you can see, I also played with Spring Drop Tube inside beveling trying to make my 9mm's drop 100% into the 3D printed bullet feeder. I was having small bullets lean where the bevel is wide and causing some hanging.


"I was having small bullets lean where the bevel is wide and causing some hanging."

You are exactly correct, that is why I made one spring drop tube for each caliber Lee bullet feeder. I was having 9mm bullet hanging in the medium spring drop tube cone. I made top of cone in the spring drop tubes match spring adapter hole size and bottom match bullet feeder ID hole size. Just like your picture shows. I made the rest because it took a minute or so to do each successive one after doing the first.

Made the #9 spring adapter work with the spring drop tube for the 30 cal (I think a#10 will work also), the #10 spring adapter work with the spring drop tube for 35 and 40 cal Lee bullet feeders and made the #12 spring adapter with the spring drop tubes for the 44 and 45 cal Lee bullet feeders by matching the cones in the spring drop tubes just like your picture shows starting with the spring adapter, through the spring drop tube to the bullet feeder.

I did exact same thing you did but for the Lee bullet feeders caliber sizes I have. No more hanging of bullets in the spring drop tube cones or snagging on top of bullet feeder because of cone angle. The Lee bullet feeders have a "small" OD, 13.4mm. We both did same thing for different bullet feeders, you printed, me Lee. Think I will leave the twist lock top for now.


GD

[GWS]

And all with the TinkerCad Software. Very Good! I haven't got a Lee bullet feeder to try, but it is so similar to the printed one, that I'm convinced they came up with the internal spring idea to make it their own. ;) Fine by TylerR I'm sure, since he's never has had any intention to patent or to commercialize any of this.

I'm going to have to try the Tinkercad.....it's really got me more curious than anything. Like you said, we got to stay busy.........or become worthless and die. :)

[Gillie Dog]

And all with the TinkerCad Software.

So your nice picture made me do one with Lee bullet feeder. This is current thought of desired end point. Printing spring drop tube now with dreaded supports to make mating surface with bullet feeder flat, will see how it turns out.

Lee bullet feeder has bevel at top but should be no issue.

316030

GD

[GWS]

What? You didn't get TylerR's wonderful Polypropylene bed that can do this with NO supports? :)

https://i.postimg.cc/nzPTYPZS/IMG_4134.jpg

In one day 3D printing became a pleasure....No glue needed either:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JC9LQTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Gillie Dog]

What? You didn't get TylerR's wonderful Polypropylene bed that can do this with NO supports? :)


Of course I did. Didn't fall of the turnip truck yesterday, you know. Some guy named GWS told me about it. Here is a 270 mm tall #9 drop tube.

316070


I added supports for the large flat circle where the Lee bullet feeder inserts into spring drop tube, worked out fine. Support stayed on bed when part was removed also. I might try without support but have some idea it will be a spaghetti factory in there if I do.

GD

PS: They do not appear to be making the 320 X 310 mm bed we need any more though.

[GWS]

I'm getting really old....can't remember who I told what anymore........but from that last picture.....you may have the record tall skinny success. :) I don't know what I was thinking.....well yes I do....raft, not supports. Just read your post wrong in my head.....see....senility is after me.

Yeah now I understand. For that Lee part, I might even be tempted to print a third little dome piece rather than that really tall support. Done that and it's just a pain to clean up. (of course that was a starwars helmit for my grand son...life size!) The third piece would be a little cone top to allow the 3D adapter to be printable without support, with its inside beveled dome....then the print could be faster printing. Maybe.....so how much longer did it take to print with the inside support?

Here's the third part I'm thinking about....just something to rest on the Lee flat top and make it like TylerR's printed ones.....I'd probably just glue it inside the adapter.......
https://i.postimg.cc/QC2jNvLg/dome.jpg

If the support works okay, and doesn't add too much time......you probably have the better, simpler idea.;)

[Gillie Dog]

Yeah now I understand. For that Lee part, I might even be tempted to print a third little dome piece rather than that really tall support. Done that and it's just a pain to clean up. (of course that was a starwars helmit for my grand son...life size!) The third piece would be a little cone top to allow the 3D adapter to be printable without support, with its inside beveled dome....then the print could be faster printing. Maybe.....so how much longer did it take to print with the inside support?

Here's the third part I'm thinking about....just something to rest on the Lee flat top and make it like TylerR's printed ones.....I'd probably just glue it inside the adapter.......
https://i.postimg.cc/QC2jNvLg/dome.jpg

If the support works okay, and doesn't add too much time......you probably have the better, simpler idea.;)

Yes, the little cone part would/will work well just super glued in. I have remade the spring drop tube completely accept for the twist lock in the top which is from TylerR's part and sticking a 45 degree bevel inside and adding a little flat bottom cone will be simple to do. Might have to do one just to see.

The support is about 14mm tall and takes an extra 14 minutes to print on a 30 cal one, 15% longer, and 4 minutes on the 45 cal one, 4% longer, because of hole size in drop tube being different. Only need to print one each to make a set and at this point do not know which I might use as have only tested/played with the 35 cal/9mm one.

Have made all of them because of the miniscule amount of time needed to produce each. Probably two or three minutes. First one might have taken 20 to 30 minutes once I stopped modifying TylerR's and made one from scratch (except the twist lock). All good learning exercises.

GD

PS: Printing a 300 mm collator now dedicated to/for pistol brass as suggested................

[GWS]

PS: Printing a 300 mm collator now dedicated to/for pistol brass as suggested................

I think it's the perfect size for brass period. One can get by with pistol brass in the smaller one just fine.....but the 300 is big enough to handle about anything. Mongo? Even bigger, but my printer won't print one that big. Good thing the 300 is ample.....and thanks to TylerR for having mercy on us with smaller printers than his 350x350mm bed version.

[Shooter74]

Tyler,

I know this is ancient history for you but new for 67 year old me, just got a Lee App and I’m only looking for the 4 hole case feeder and upgraded case slider, I don’t shoot enough to justify building a complete electronic feeder. I haven’t bought a 3d printer, but considering an Elegoo Neptune 3 just don’t know if I would use it for anything other than reloading.

Thanks
Mike

[Mbeavers1]

Solved: Drilled out to nearly 6.5mm. It took a lot of material out. Works now but not so sure why ID was so small. Should have been 6.3mm.

Anyone have issues with #6 drop tube not
accepting 6mm bullets? My print looks really good and has no defects that i can see, but my Berger 109 LRHT bullets will not pass - either from the top or the bottom. I tried a #7 but because of the very long pointy tip and long boa tail, the bullets have just enough room to wedge in there. Next plan is reaming them w a drill bit but that may not be easy either.

[Gillie Dog]

Solved: Works now but not so sure why ID was so small.

Have you calibrated your printer?

Calibrated my printer per link in the collator manual and it makes the holes in drop tubes a tiny amount larger than nominal from the manual, close to 0.1 mm larger which is a really small number, 0.003937".

Just a thought.

GD

[Gillie Dog]

I’m only looking for the 4 hole case feeder and upgraded case slider

Page 16 of the collator manual has an explanation of the available APP parts to print from the download and connection(s) on the APP.

GD

[Gillie Dog]

Is there a rule of thumb on how much wider(longer) and how much deeper the rifle brass collator plates holes should be than the case itself?

Like 2mm wider than total length of the case and 2mm deeper than the largest diameter of the case itself? Plate thickness around the diameter of the case or a little less seems appropriate.

I am making a custom 30 M1 Carbine plate to try. Using a pistol brass collator plate with that tall skinny case is counter intuitive, having it laying on its side for collation seems more appropriate.

Thanks

GD

[GWS]

Is there a rule of thumb on how much wider(longer) and how much deeper the rifle brass collator plates holes should be than the case itself?

Like 2mm wider than total length of the case and 2mm deeper than the largest diameter of the case itself? Plate thickness around the diameter of the case or a little less seems appropriate.

I am making a custom 30 M1 Carbine plate to try. Using a pistol brass collator plate with that tall skinny case is counter intuitive, having it laying on its side for collation seems more appropriate.

Thanks, GD

I never asked what anyone else does.....but my own rule of thumb is generally to use a plate for as many calibers as I can get away with. Trial and Error.

That said, I have learned a couple of things during my own Trial and Error on doing CASE plates:

1. don't try to use one that two cases can drop into together side by side......into one hole. I have gotten away with it (see first vid), but I don't recommend it.
2. plate height for cases need to be shallow enough so one case cannot drop into a hole on top of another case, IOW's shallower or equal to case height.
3. Plate height for cases need to be deep enough so once cases fill a hole, they don't fall over or get knocked over by other cases. And it's surprising what you can get away with. Video below is not the best height or design for that application, but I was curious to find out if I could collate rifle, .223, in my favorite (TylerR's) Large Pistol plate. It worked, but the second video shows a normal better design using a lay-down rifle case plate just for .223 rifle cases, showed a bit slow motion in the first test of it. Yet for 30 carbine, I'd rather use a drop in as I did for .357..... Last video....


https://youtu.be/7EBQFuuwaBQ


https://youtu.be/-hDs9eLVxzw

I prefer using the lay-down style for .223 unless I'm just set up for large pistol and feeling in a hurry. Another video of just the plate running:


https://youtu.be/M6bRF4ZyqL8

One thing about lay-down rifle case collators, is you do need to match plate thickness with case thickness, so there's no piggybacking.

Yet .357 and most likely 30 carbine sure works great this way......(below, just using TylerR's large pistol case plate)


https://youtu.be/FsWdsDeQ68s

[Gillie Dog]

1. don't try to use one that two cases can drop into together side by side......into one hole. I have gotten away with it (see first vid), but I don't recommend it.
2. plate height for cases need to be shallow enough so one case cannot drop into a hole on top of another case, IOW's shallower or equal to case height. One thing about lay-down rifle case collators, is you do need to match plate thickness with case thickness, so there's no piggybacking.

Yet .357 and most likely 30 carbine sure works great this way......(below, just using TylerR's large pistol case plate)

Since I have all my pistol calibers covered with pistol plate(s), I tested the 30 M1 in a pistol plate and it functioned like your 223 did with leaners with 8mm thick, with 12mm thick (not standard thickness as both large and small pistol are 8mm thick) very little leaners but a lot of empty holes on both thus use a rifle brass plate idea. Case is about 35mm long so thicker with larger diameter holes for stand-up collation would be needed I would guess.

With very limited "rifle" calibers to do, one, I thought a plate sized just for it would be appropriate. All pistol calibers do quite well in the plates stand-up. I modified the slide plate for stand-up to be smooth and moved hole a little forward for more clearance (small collator plate does more calibers now) and it still functions for large pistol collator plate. I do everything in small plate except 44 mag (which works fine in 8mm thick plate) and 45 ACP. Have not tried the standard slide plate with lay-down cases yet as have not produced a rifle collator plate yet, but getting there.

One thing I have not figured out is what the slide plate adjuster "alternate" is for, read about the slide plate adjuster here but did not find anything on the "alternate".

Thanks very much

GD

[GWS]

One thing I have not figured out is what the slide plate adjuster "alternate" is for, read about the slide plate adjuster here but did not find anything on the "alternate".
GD

First I noticed it......TylerR will have to tell you.......

I ended up making a slide without an adjuster.....just solid and wide open. I have one with the adjuster, but it was always adjusted wide open anyway so I just made the solid one................keeping the adjusting one too, for when I find something that needs it.;) The 357 video.....using the solid wide open one.316518

[TylerR]

First I noticed it......TylerR will have to tell you.......

I ended up making a slide without an adjuster.....just solid and wide open. I have one with the adjuster, but it was always adjusted wide open anyway so I just made the solid one................keeping the adjusting one too, for when I find something that needs it.;) The 357 video.....using the solid wide open one.316518

The alternate slider is just the original without a ramp. I have found that sometimes that is more reliable.

[Gillie Dog]

First I noticed it......TylerR will have to tell you.......

I ended up making a slide without an adjuster.....just solid and wide open. I have one with the adjuster, but it was always adjusted wide open anyway so I just made the solid one................keeping the adjusting one too, for when I find something that needs it.;) The 357 video.....using the solid wide open one.

I also made solid slide for "pistol brass" stand-up. Definitely need adjuster for 30 Carbine lay-down, moved closed some. Printing sweeper now (one baby step at a time), going to try "large" one first as looks appropriate for how 30 Carbine react in collator.


The alternate slider is just the original without a ramp. I have found that sometimes that is more reliable.

Will test it with my one and only lay-down case. Ramp is functioning in minimal testing.


Thanks, both of you.

GD

[Mbeavers1]

I am struggling with my proximity switch recognizing bullets in the drop tube then stopping the motor. I think the issue is again my long bullets. The very pointy part of my bullet is across the sensor so I think there is too much standoff so the sensor cant detect the bullet. Is there any way to reduce the length of Drop Tube 6 by 1" (20%). I tried just scaling the z axis in Cura but then the spring adapter profile in the top also shrinks and I cant connect the spring.

[M500]

Have you tried TylerR's drop tube spacer?

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/6.%20Drop%20Tubes/Drop_Tube_Spacer_Small.stl

[Mbeavers1]

Nope, but I will! I did try changing the ball bearing position but that lead to unreliable feeding. Thanks!

[GWS]

The "alt" drop tubes are way shorter......made for if you want to use them just under the collator. And the drop tube spacer is sometimes used between to give more space between drop hole out of the collator and the prox., so long bullets don't get stopped half way out of the collator and cause jams.

That said, it doesn't mean there aren't more uses and possibilities for both the spacer and the Alt drop tubes. .... pictures, as usual, do help us help. ;)

I think the main purpose for the long in the long drop tubes is to provide a bullet stack above the feed die. But that stack can also be achieved with spacers.....what do you think, TylerR? and actually, I've been perfectly successful with the stack in the lower end of my spring tube, since that's all I have, besides the lower spring adapter, above my feed dies. (yes, my spring tubes are full when the prox under the collator turns off.)

As you all know.....this fun game is lots of trial and error with so many options and scenarios to deal with, but perfection is at the end of the fun journey. :)

[TylerR]

I am struggling with my proximity switch recognizing bullets in the drop tube then stopping the motor. I think the issue is again my long bullets. The very pointy part of my bullet is across the sensor so I think there is too much standoff so the sensor cant detect the bullet. Is there any way to reduce the length of Drop Tube 6 by 1" (20%). I tried just scaling the z axis in Cura but then the spring adapter profile in the top also shrinks and I cant connect the spring.

Give this a try.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/6.%20Drop%20Tubes/Drop_Tube_Prox_6mm.stl

[GWS]

Give this a try.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/6.%20Drop%20Tubes/Drop_Tube_New_6mm.stl

I see baseball is over.........and you've been busy today.....;) They look good......but Drop_Tube_Prox_6mm.stl can't be the name because they work for what else? What's the little circle/cylinder on one side at the bottom? The rest is obvious to even me. I like how clean it is! Well done.

[TylerR]

I see baseball is over.........and you've been busy today.....;) They look good......but Drop_Tube_Prox_6mm.stl can't be the name because they work for what else? What's the little circle/cylinder on one side at the bottom? The rest is obvious to even me. I like how clean it is! Well done.

Yes. finally!!! Now basketball fires up. lol

Now that you mention it that should be the name. I will rename them. :)
The little cylinder is to interface with the prox sensor housing.

[GWS]

I've slept a while since I put one together.....I see. Cool. I'm replacing my own original design on all my setups. I have broken too many. They work great, they just have a weak spot you have to be too careful with. Thought I was just being too old and clumsy....and maybe that's still true. But your two piece design resists old and clumsy better. Just the way it is.....glad you converted to prox so you could convert me to the two piece design.

On sports, I'm glad my kids have all left the nest....too old to coach any more. NOT Unhappy about that. ;) ConnieMack world series is over too....a Dallas team beat Cinn. Ohio in the final due to a passed ball with bases loaded in overtime. Great teams....felt sorry for that pitcher/catcher.....that's the trouble with sports....someone has to lose....sometimes even the best team.

[calgarysparky]

Gday gday!! So I printed the 300mm unit and plate. Which bowl mount and which ramp AM I to use with the 300mm bowl?

[Gillie Dog]

Gday gday!! So I printed the 300mm unit and plate. Which bowl mount and which ramp AM I to use with the 300mm bowl?

I just did one also.

Same mounts, "Mongo" ramp and "Mongo" brass slide plate is what I did. Forget where I found/read that at the time.....

GD

[GWS]

I just did one also.

Same mounts, "Mongo" ramp and "Mongo" brass slide plate is what I did. Forget where I found/read that at the time.....

GD

Mongo ramp, but regular sized cut-out for slide plates. Half right. ;)

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5476096&viewfull=1#post5476096

[TylerR]

Mongo ramp, but regular sized cut-out for slide plates. Half right. ;)

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5476096&viewfull=1#post5476096

I think he means he used the Mongo brass slide, which is correct.

[GWS]

I think he means he used the Mongo brass slide, which is correct.

I went home and checked it out.....you are right.....the picture is deceiving......but bullet slides are regular sized, not Mongo.

Complicated....:)

[TylerR]

Well I guess the picture in my last post is incorrect then, because I used the regular sized one. ;)

For incorrect, it sure works good. Maybe I'm dreaming....I'll have to go home and look closer.


Since it is "in between" I think either one works. now you have me questioning it.

[calgarysparky]

Since it is "in between" I think either one works. now you have me questioning it.

I printed the normal plate and it looks like its going to work. I'll post a vid once I get it together. And thanks for the replies folks! Oh BTW, print time with a .6 nozzle at .25mm layer height was just under 18 hours. Pics to come.

[GWS]

I printed the normal plate and it looks like its going to work. I'll post a vid once I get it together. And thanks for the replies folks! Oh BTW, print time with a .6 nozzle at .25mm layer height was just under 18 hours. Pics to come.

Bullet slide or case slide? Now I'm confused too.....

sparky, that's how much I know......didn't know you could print quality with a .6 nozzle at .25mm. That would speed things up over printing .4, at .2 high. for sure. Small parts I print .4 at .12mm layer height, longer, but I love the quality and fit.

[Gillie Dog]

Mongo ramp, but regular sized cut-out for slide plates. Half right. ;)

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5476096&viewfull=1#post5476096


I think he means he used the Mongo brass slide, which is correct.

So yes, Mongo brass slide was intended to say.

And that said, I took the Mongo brass slide and moved the hole out 2mm for more clearance with small pistol brass collator plate and the back of the hole is still behind the large pistol brass collator plate. Then took the brass slide and moved its hole 4mm out to try to get lay-down 30 Carbine to work better closer to center of hole, helped but not perfect. Printing another stand-up collator plate for 30 Carbine right now. This case has been difficult for me. Lay-down I get it to be pretty good with custom collator plate I did but its head is so light it takes a good length to tip down the slide hole when head is in back, head first is OK but speed has to be watched or you get stove piping with the adjuster set at 24mm hole opening to make it work. About 1 every 200 is not happy and jams, can be either direction. Stand-up has been better and just need to "perfect" the collator plate, to my satisfaction, of course, which with my OCD means perfect collating and efficient.

The journey is an enjoyable endeavor though and the filament makers really like me.

Many thanks guys.

GD

[TylerR]

The journey is an enjoyable endeavor though and the filament makers really like me.


You and me both my friend. Glad to hear it is working with some trial and error. As GWS has said, part of the fun is the journey to success. The number of failed plates I printed is impressive. At one point I estimated about 20 rolls of filament. All in the name of progress. haha

[calgarysparky]

Bullet slide or case slide? Now I'm confused too.....

sparky, that's how much I know......didn't know you could print quality with a .6 nozzle at .25mm. That would speed things up over printing .4, at .2 high. for sure. Small parts I print .4 at .12mm layer height, longer, but I love the quality and fit.

The only part I print at .12 with a .4 is the bullet feeding die for clearances. certain parts get .4 at .2, but the bowls and plates get .6 at .25. I have 6 printers set up with different nozzles and such so I put together a system in under 24 hours. This is my 6th unit now so I've had the chance to play around with stuff. If you're wonder why six, I had a hornady LNL AP that I built 2 for and a buddy wanted it so those went with that press. I have a 550 and a buddy wanted a bullet feeder for his 750 so he got one. The I switched to a Lee SPP and built 2 more for it, LOL. The 300 is for my APP and soon to come case collator. Plus I et bored easily so I just build stuff, ROFL.

[TylerR]

The only part I print at .12 with a .4 is the bullet feeding die for clearances. certain parts get .4 at .2, but the bowls and plates get .6 at .25. I have 6 printers set up with different nozzles and such so I put together a system in under 24 hours. This is my 6th unit now so I've had the chance to play around with stuff. If you're wonder why six, I had a hornady LNL AP that I built 2 for and a buddy wanted it so those went with that press. I have a 550 and a buddy wanted a bullet feeder for his 750 so he got one. The I switched to a Lee SPP and built 2 more for it, LOL. The 300 is for my APP and soon to come case collator. Plus I et bored easily so I just build stuff, ROFL.

Bro, six printers with different nozzles? :drinks:

You sound like me. I print mostly just for something to do these days, not because I have a pressing need. Needless to say I have a few collators. Glad to hear you are setting your friends up. Exactly why I published this project.

[GWS]

Bro, six printers with different nozzles? :drinks:

You sound like me. I print mostly just for something to do these days, not because I have a pressing need. Needless to say I have a few collators. Glad to hear you are setting your friends up. Exactly why I published this project.

I also get a kick out of using cad to design more goodies. You obviously do too, or you wouldn't have been so busy the last few days!:)

Glad for that......now I have more to print and try. I like improvements.....and there seems to always be room for that.

[Silverbullit]

Awesome thread!

Some help and guidence would be utmost appreciated mates!
I am an epic level greenhorn-noob so I write in hopes of some advice on what boxes to check and parts to get?
(I got myself one of them 3D printers with 250mm cubed sized build plate, a 1kg roll filament, superglue and I downloaded the github .zip and fired up the "parts generator.jar".)

First aim is to make a 9mm brass collator headstamp up.
1/ What motor is the strongest/best choice? There are 4 different motor choices in the .jar generator?!!? (Links would be appreciated, Swede so Amazon.se I presume?!?)
2/ What boxes would you advice I check in the "parts generator.jar" software for the above adventure?
3/ What is the biggest version I can do with cubed 250mm build plate?

What is the "Spring" choices, what is correct for 9mm brass?
Also what is "APP parts" selection?

Thanks for any help or advice, look forward for your expertize!

May the force be with you mates,
/Silverbullit

[Silverbullit]

Awesome thread!

Some help and guidence would be utmost appreciated mates!
I am an epic level greenhorn-noob so I write in hopes of some advice on what boxes to check and parts to get?
(I got myself one of them 3D printers with 250mm cubed sized build plate, a 1kg roll filament, superglue and I downloaded the github .zip and fired up the "parts generator.jar".)

First aim is to make a 9mm brass collator headstamp up.
1/ What motor is the strongest/best choice? There are 4 different motor choices in the .jar generator?!!? (Links would be appreciated, Swede so Amazon.se I presume?!?)
2/ What boxes would you advice I check in the "parts generator.jar" software for the above adventure?
3/ What is the biggest version I can do with cubed 250mm build plate?

What is the "Spring" choices, what is correct for 9mm brass?
Also what is "APP parts" selection?

Thanks for any help or advice, look forward for your expertize!

May the force be with you mates,
/Silverbullit

[TylerR]

Awesome thread!

Some help and guidence would be utmost appreciated mates!
I am an epic level greenhorn-noob so I write in hopes of some advice on what boxes to check and parts to get?
(I got myself one of them 3D printers with 250mm cubed sized build plate, a 1kg roll filament, superglue and I downloaded the github .zip and fired up the "parts generator.jar".)

First aim is to make a 9mm brass collator headstamp up.
1/ What motor is the strongest/best choice? There are 4 different motor choices in the .jar generator?!!? (Links would be appreciated, Swede so Amazon.se I presume?!?)
2/ What boxes would you advice I check in the "parts generator.jar" software for the above adventure?
3/ What is the biggest version I can do with cubed 250mm build plate?

What is the "Spring" choices, what is correct for 9mm brass?
Also what is "APP parts" selection?

Thanks for any help or advice, look forward for your expertize!

May the force be with you mates,
/Silverbullit

Have you read the user manual in the downloaded files? It will address a lot of the "noob" questions.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/User%20Manual.pdf

[Silverbullit]

Hi TyleR,
U the MAN!!! :)

In short Yes, however my english is not quite all that as it comes to technical terminology.
The User Manual is actually awesome beyond belief, probably the most thorough on the point, no unneccessery stuffing User Manual I've seen to date.
The conundrum is my lack of english skills and the humbling reality that the online translators or translation lexikons is an absolute unusable disaster when you try to translate through those misleadingly abundant sources but in reality pseudo guessing drivel at the technical perifieries.

Thus a lot of boxes are muddy in my usually tar-pit rubbery rails carrying my train of thought.
Stuff like the box with Hex Coupler, is that for the 634 motor?
And options, should I go for latch mode or skip that one? (is it compatible with not using latch if its not necessary)
The APP parts... not quite able to guesstimate what this is

Some parts from the great purchase links are not availible, some googling steer me towards building it with the microswitch option first.
Should I get the Relay and the speed controller for this initial build based on the Microswitch option?

As soon as I have this sorted out I will place the order and start printing out stuff,
oh and try to wrestle the "Collator Plate Generator" Tab :)

[TylerR]

[QUOTE=Silverbullit;5612748]
First aim is to make a 9mm brass collator headstamp up.
1/ What motor is the strongest/best choice? There are 4 different motor choices in the .jar generator?!!? 634JS. link is in the manual
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

2/ What boxes would you advice I check in the "parts generator.jar" software for the above adventure? See attachment
3/ What is the biggest version I can do with cubed 250mm build plate? Standard size

What is the "Spring" choices, what is correct for 9mm brass? Feed springs. 10mm (ID) spring would work.
Also what is "APP parts" selection? For a Lee APP press

317061

[TylerR]

Stuff like the box with Hex Coupler, is that for the 634 motor? It is used to interface the motor with the collator plate. Hex or pinned motor shaft.
And options, should I go for latch mode or skip that one? (is it compatible with not using latch if its not necessary) I don't know what you are asking

Some parts from the great purchase links are not availible, some googling steer me towards building it with the microswitch option first. I looked at all the links in the latest version on github and they all seemed to work.
Should I get the Relay and the speed controller for this build? Yes.

As soon as I have this sorted out I will place the order and start printing out stuff,
oh and try to wrestle the "Collator Plate Generator" Tab :) All of the collator plates you should need are in the collator plates folder in the download.

[Silverbullit]

Thanks TyleR,
That is some Golden answers!!!

I will place the order immediately, I'm adding the "SpeedController" & "Relay" to the order list while replying. :)

I will add updates and build pictures as we put our TyleR builds together!

One last question, is there an alternative Relay that works with this build?
(Asking since maybe I can get one here if theres an alternative and start building sooner, got itchy build fingers. hehe)

For some enigmatic reason the connection to Castboolits is horrible today, first time it did not work supernice. (Crashes out when I try to add pics)

[TylerR]

Thanks TyleR,
That is some Golden answers!!!

I will place the order immediately, I'm adding the "SpeedController" & "Relay" to the order list while replying. :)

I will add updates and build pictures as we put our TyleR builds together!

One last question, is there an alternative Relay that works with this build?
(Asking since maybe I can get one here if theres an alternative and start building sooner, got itchy build fingers. hehe)

For some enigmatic reason the connection to Castboolits is horrible today, first time it did not work supernice. (Crashes out when I try to add pics)

You are welcome! I do not know about alternate relays, but any 12v 2amp SPST relay should work.
Yes, CB was unresponsive yesterday. Seems better now.

[Silverbullit]

It is much appreciated mate!!!

Cannot find something looking identical at the swedish amazon site, could these be same despite having cube shape?
https://www.amazon.se/GUUZI-Effektrel%C3%A4-Spole-Stift-JQC-3F/dp/B09BMQVMKH/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_4_3/260-4071964-8473666?pd_rd_w=yaZ7U&content-id=amzn1.sym.10d361f3-8389-44f8-8ad5-c0f2bbe9a2ee&pf_rd_p=10d361f3-8389-44f8-8ad5-c0f2bbe9a2ee&pf_rd_r=GWTTCJ793J50DENYTVS7&pd_rd_wg=T23Bb&pd_rd_r=56432218-7048-4e1e-b8d0-df0eaea303c9&pd_rd_i=B09BMQVMKH&psc=1

Printing out the brass headstamp up latched microswitch version right now! hehe (Oh boy it feels good!!!)

When that is done I will check the .jar boxes and print out bullet nose down/up latched microswitch version.

Cant stop once you get going with this!!!

Thanks again mate, will update on the adventures [smilie=w:

[TylerR]

It is much appreciated mate!!!

Cannot find something looking identical at the swedish amazon site, could these be same despite having cube shape?
https://www.amazon.se/GUUZI-Effektrel%C3%A4-Spole-Stift-JQC-3F/dp/B09BMQVMKH/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_4_3/260-4071964-8473666?pd_rd_w=yaZ7U&content-id=amzn1.sym.10d361f3-8389-44f8-8ad5-c0f2bbe9a2ee&pf_rd_p=10d361f3-8389-44f8-8ad5-c0f2bbe9a2ee&pf_rd_r=GWTTCJ793J50DENYTVS7&pd_rd_wg=T23Bb&pd_rd_r=56432218-7048-4e1e-b8d0-df0eaea303c9&pd_rd_i=B09BMQVMKH&psc=1

Printing out the brass headstamp up latched microswitch version right now! hehe (Oh boy it feels good!!!)

When that is done I will check the .jar boxes and print out bullet nose down/up latched microswitch version.

Cant stop once you get going with this!!!

Thanks again mate, will update on the adventures [smilie=w:

Just a word of advice. the microswitch can be very finicky. without question proximity switch is better.
Also, you only need the relay if using the prox switch. Microswitch does not need it.

[Silverbullit]

Well yes, I wanted that but the proximity sensor linked/recommended seems nowhere to be found.
I really wanted that proximity sensor version but I ordered the microthingies since my googling the Amazon.se served me a migraine (due to low comprehension/knowledge *blush*)

Is there another proximity thing that would work?

And thanks some more, really appreciate your awesome feedback, it is helping me out A LOT!
Golden mate!!!

/Swedish fumbler.. .I mean Silverbullit [smilie=s:

[TylerR]

Well yes, I wanted that but the proximity sensor linked/recommended seems nowhere to be found.
I really wanted that proximity sensor version but I ordered the microthingies since my googling the Amazon.se served me a migraine (due to low comprehension/knowledge *blush*)

Is there another proximity thing that would work?

And thanks some more, really appreciate your awesome feedback, it is helping me out A LOT!
Golden mate!!!

/Swedish fumbler.. .I mean Silverbullit [smilie=s:

Search ebay for Autonics PRD18-14DN2.

[Silverbullit]

Supernice mate,
I found it immediately! (I think)


I will order 2 @ once before my boss comes home (g/f)

Purchasing like a shoppaholic right now!!! :))

[djinnpb]

TylerR

Re springs:
I had mixed results with the regular Double small and large ones. Ended up getting the long Double extension spring and chute and that spring is tightly wound and doesn't sag and way better than the lighter ones they have. I'm making another collator for another press and out of spring material. Soo I was going to just order another from Double but saw that ali one you used (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832626574002.html)
Since you've had and used both.. are the ali ones tight and sturdy like that Double one or more like the regular ones? Double's is spendy shipped but worked great. I don't have a ton of height so I can't use springs as vertical as I'd like to mitigate the hanging/sagging.

If so did you get 15, 12, and 10mm ones to cover bases?

Thanks!

[TylerR]

Supernice mate,
I found it immediately! (I think)

I will order 2 @ once before my boss comes home (g/f) and spanks me!... hmm maybe I should wait so she sees it... this is why I should never think out loud, haha

Theyre all the same right? The prices varies like mad so I'll just hit the above sellers purchase button!

you are going to want to delete that link. they are not allowed.
Yes, that is the correct one.

[TylerR]

TylerR

Re springs:
I had mixed results with the regular DAA small and large ones. Ended up getting the long DAA extension spring and chute (https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring) and that spring is tightly wound and doesn't sag and way better than the lighter ones they have. I'm making another collator for another press and out of spring material. Soo I was going to just order another from DAA but saw that ali one you used (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832626574002.html)
Since you've had and used both.. are the ali ones tight and sturdy like that DAA one or more like the regular ones? DAA is spendy shipped but worked great. I don't have a ton of height so I can't use springs as vertical as I'd like to mitigate the hanging/sagging.

If so did you get 15, 12, and 10mm ones to cover bases?

Thanks!

ali express and mcmaster carr are the highest quality springs. tightly wound.
yes, I have springs for basically every size. those would be 13,10,8mm ID, which cover pretty much anything.

[djinnpb]

you are going to want to delete that link. they are not allowed.
Yes, that is the correct one.

good save! removed.


ali express and mcmaster carr are the highest quality springs. tightly wound.
yes, I have springs for basically every size. those would be 13,10,8mm ID, which cover pretty much anything.

I might just get some from mcmaster carr but the ali ones being all in mm seemed easier. But that slow boat.. .ekk

[TylerR]

good save! removed.



I might just get some from mcmaster carr but the ali ones being all in mm seemed easier. But that slow boat.. .ekk

metric or imperial makes no difference. They will both work fine in the adapters.

[djinnpb]

metric or imperial makes no difference. They will both work fine in the adapters.

Thanks Tyler!
Quick check on McMaster and thinking these. They look to be what you ordered?
https://www.mcmaster.com/9664K55/
(1/2 OD 0.063 wire)
(9.5mm ID)

https://www.mcmaster.com/9664K26/
.563 OD 0.0.63 wire
(11mm ID)

https://www.mcmaster.com/9664K27/
0.625" OD 0.063 wire)
(12.67mm ID)

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler!
Quick check on McMaster and thinking these. They look to be what you ordered?
https://www.mcmaster.com/9664K55/
(1/2 OD 0.063 wire)
(9.5mm ID)

https://www.mcmaster.com/9664K26/
.563 OD 0.0.63 wire
(11mm ID)

https://www.mcmaster.com/9664K27/
0.625" OD 0.063 wire)
(12.67mm ID)


this is what I went with. smallest one is for small rifle rounds. skip it if you don't do that.

Extension Spring Stock, 36" Long, 0.625" Od, 0.047" Wire Diameter - 9664K59
Extension Spring Stock, 36" Long, 0.5" Od, 0.047" Wire Diameter - 9664K44
Extension Spring Stock, 36" Long, 0.375" Od, 0.035" Wire Diameter - 9664K19

[djinnpb]

this is what I went with. smallest one is for small rifle rounds. skip it if you don't do that.

Extension Spring Stock, 36" Long, 0.625" Od, 0.047" Wire Diameter - 9664K59
Extension Spring Stock, 36" Long, 0.5" Od, 0.047" Wire Diameter - 9664K44
Extension Spring Stock, 36" Long, 0.375" Od, 0.035" Wire Diameter - 9664K19

Thanks ! I was gonna order the thicker wire. But those look perfect. I'll give them a go. the heavy 247gr 300blk keeps getting hung on the regular Double spring and it's driving me crazy.

[TylerR]

Thanks ! I was gonna order the thicker wire. But those look perfect. I'll give them a go. the heavy 247gr 300blk keeps getting hung on the regular Double spring and it's driving me crazy.

The ali express springs wire is 1mm thick, which is perfect. Mcmaster .047inch would be 1.1938mm thick, which is already pretty heavy. I would not go any thicker than that. I always pre-stretch the springs. If you choose to keep it stock and not stretched it will support tons of weight.

[Silverbullit]

It is very interesting to watch your discussion about springs mates...
looking at that AliExpress style spring availible in inner diameters 10/11/12/13/14mm
Maybe I can take this opportunity to ask for your expertize?

What inner diameter do you find works best for bullets in calibers 9mm/38sp and .45acp?

Exactly the same question regarding inner spring diameter for brass in above mentioned 9mm/38sp and .45acp?

[TylerR]

It is very interesting to watch your discussion about springs mates...
looking at that AliExpress style spring availible in inner diameters 10/11/12/13/14mm
Maybe I can take this opportunity to ask for your expertize?

What inner diameter do you find works best for bullets in calibers 9mm/38sp and .45acp?

Exactly the same question regarding inner spring diameter for brass in above mentioned 9mm/38sp and .45acp?

Just to make sure we are on the same page, the size listed on ali is OD, not ID. So for those calibers I would order 12mm (10mm ID) and 15mm (13mm ID).
10mm ID will work for 9mm bullets and brass. 13mm ID will work for 45acp bullets and brass, as well as 38sp brass.

[Silverbullit]

I'm looking at the speedcontroller, out of curiousity - do you think one of them cheap Amazon speedcontroller with digital display work as a replacement for the analog turnbutton speed controller?
I'm no allowed to link an example, right? [smilie=w:

Also I saw somewhere someone running 38sp brass, it is not choosable in the .jar, do you happen to know what needs to be printed to run .38sp brass?

Thanks mates for being here!!! :guntootsmiley:

[GWS]

I'm looking at the speedcontroller, out of curiousity - do you think one of them cheap Amazon speedcontroller with digital display work as a replacement for the analog turnbutton speed controller?
I'm no allowed to link an example, right?

Also I saw somewhere someone running 38sp brass, it is not choosable in the .jar, do you happen to know what needs to be printed to run .38sp brass?

Thanks mates for being here!!!


I think links to amazon are OK, but not ebay. I've never used the speed cont. you specified.

.38sp brass.....by running brass you mean feeding brass from a collator, or from an APP?

From a collator, I use the large pistol brass collator plate on .357 ok. Tyler can tell you whether the small one has big enough in diameter holes to work with that protruding rim on the .357/.38 brass family. Case length is only 5mm shorter than .357.

As for an APP case inserts, I modified the .357 one already, and just raised the notch 5mm for .38. Both .357 and 38 Special .STLs are below:

317300

Both modified inserts prevent occasional sideways displacement of the brass that does happen once in a while with the original half cut design.

https://i.postimg.cc/yY9Bs9Mr/APP-357-38sp.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/m2BG6M0Y/357-stock-insert.jpg

........38 ..........357......original 357 with half cut (just holds it straight longer and prevents angled presentation to the shell holder.)

[Gillie Dog]

I'm looking at the speedcontroller, out of curiousity - do you think one of them cheap Amazon speedcontroller with digital display work as a replacement for the analog turnbutton speed controller?
I'm no allowed to link an example, right? [smilie=w:

Also I saw somewhere someone running 38sp brass, it is not choosable in the .jar, do you happen to know what needs to be printed to run .38sp brass?

Thanks mates for being here!!! :guntootsmiley:


I have been quite successful with the large pistol brass plate and 38 Spl. Small pistol brass plate worked but some slid by hole in slide plate and jammed because of rim diameter. The manual says 0.430 max diameter with small plate. Nominal of 38 Spl rim is 0.440.

Remember the electronics boxes are designed for parts listed, changes would mean you will need to redesign the box or make your own.

GD

[GWS]

I thought the rim was a problem.....but my brain cells aren't holding on to what they used to. Gillie Dog's are doing better obviously ;) .....and it's been a while since I read what's in the manual. Thanks for the save.....

[Silverbullit]

Thanks mates, your expertize feedback is really really appreciated!

I think this entire project is marvelous!!! :popcorn:

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
With regards to the AliExpress springs what OD do you recommend for 223 bullets and 223 brass ?

[GWS]

Tyler,

I know this is ancient history for you but new for 67 year old me, just got a Lee App and I’m only looking for the 4 hole case feeder and upgraded case slider, I don’t shoot enough to justify building a complete electronic feeder. I haven’t bought a 3d printer, but considering an Elegoo Neptune 3 just don’t know if I would use it for anything other than reloading.

Thanks
Mike

Mike, sorry Tyler and I missed this post. Not ignoring on purpose, sometimes we just get into conversations and miss a short post stuck in between by someone.... A flaw in the system......and geeze this is almost a month old.

Anyway, as for 4 hole case feeding, what are you wanting to feed....pistol or rifle or both? Lee's four hole collator works fine for most pistol except maybe 9mm, but I fixed that just adding clear thinline tubing that dropfits inside the existing holes of Lees collator. For rifle I 3D printed a new design that works great, for .308 and .223 both. That's the limit of my experience with the 4-ways, using Lee's 4-way downtube setup.

The upgraded slider is in TylerR's downloads under the APP section and comes in two sizes....size being how far the bottom protrudes towards the case.....try em both and keep the one that works best for what you load.

Your 3D printer choice was a new one for me, but looks real similar to the Creality Enders....with the same size bed. That should work for everything Tyler created except the 300 and Mongo size collator bodies and plates. Most reloading won't require them, except maybe rifle bigger than .223 or maybe even .308. Sorry we're late on this. Hopefully it won't happen again!:)

BTW here's what I did to make Lee's collator excel at rifle....... https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-deluxe-app.919504/#post-12638674

And a belated, Welcome to our 3D printed Collator Thread!


Dear Team !
With regards to the AliExpress springs what OD do you recommend for 223 bullets and 223 brass ?

Another new poster, rogerandre! Also welcome to our 3D printed Collator Thread! I bought one spring from them several years ago, but is was for .45, so I'm not able to answer directly. But I will say that ID is the important measurement.....and Tyler's adapters are close enough to fit most springs.

So for 223 Bullets I actually bought a spring that meaures 1/4" ID and even it fit the adapter that was closest...in MM it measures 6.5mm ID and about 8mm OD. So if I were picking one from AliExpress, if all they supply is OD then subtract from that, wire diameter X 2, giving you ID. Then pick a spring that is at least 6.5mm ID.

One thing I noticed about the Ali spring was the small wire size...so be careful, you don't want it so floppy that it sags enough to slow or stop flow. A good stateside source is McMaster-Carr. Even their smallest diameter wire size is not floppy.

Springs for 223 Cases need to be even less "floppy" or they will get stuck. I prefer to use rigid thinline tubing for cases, but I think TylerR has done some springs with some...don't know just what. Maybe he will see this post and add. I would think springs with at least 12mm ID would be necessary....
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/spring-stock/spring-type~extension/

[rogerandre]

Huge thanks for the fast reply ! Really appreciate it !

So for 223 bullets the 9 mm OD/7 mm ID ought to work.
And for 223 brass the 15 mm OD/13 mm ID ought to work.

Waiting for TylerR feedback before I order.

Once again thanks and have a great day !

[TylerR]

Mike, sorry Tyler and I missed this post. Not ignoring on purpose, sometimes we just get into conversations and miss a short post stuck in between by someone.... A flaw in the system......and geeze this is almost a month old.

Anyway, as for 4 hole case feeding, what are you wanting to feed....pistol or rifle or both? Lee's four hole collator works fine for most pistol except maybe 9mm, but I fixed that just adding clear thinline tubing that dropfits inside the existing holes of Lees collator. For rifle I 3D printed a new design that works great, for .308 and .223 both. That's the limit of my experience with the 4-ways, using Lee's 4-way downtube setup.

The upgraded slider is in TylerR's downloads under the APP section and comes in two sizes....size being how far the bottom protrudes towards the case.....try em both and keep the one that works best for what you load.

Your 3D printer choice was a new one for me, but looks real similar to the Creality Enders....with the same size bed. That should work for everything Tyler created except the 300 and Mongo size collator bodies and plates. Most reloading won't require them, except maybe rifle bigger than .223 or maybe even .308. Sorry we're late on this. Hopefully it won't happen again!:)

BTW here's what I did to make Lee's collator excel at rifle....... https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-deluxe-app.919504/#post-12638674

And a belated, Welcome to our 3D printed Collator Thread!



Another new poster, rogerandre! Also welcome to our 3D printed Collator Thread! I bought one spring from them several years ago, but is was for .45, so I'm not able to answer directly. But I will say that ID is the important measurement.....and Tyler's adapters are close enough to fit most springs.

So for 223 Bullets I actually bought a spring that meaures 1/4" ID and even it fit the adapter that was closest...in MM it measures 6.5mm ID and about 8mm OD. So if I were picking one from AliExpress, if all they supply is OD then subtract from that, wire diameter X 2, giving you ID. Then pick a spring that is at least 6.5mm ID.

One thing I noticed about the Ali spring was the small wire size...so be careful, you don't want it so floppy that it sags enough to slow or stop flow. A good stateside source is McMaster-Carr. Even their smallest diameter wire size is not floppy.

Springs for 223 Cases need to be even less "floppy" or they will get stuck. I prefer to use rigid thinline tubing for cases, but I think TylerR has done some springs with some...don't know just what. Maybe he will see this post and add. I would think springs with at least 12mm ID would be necessary....
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/spring-stock/spring-type~extension/

GWS covered it all very well as usual. For .223 I would go with the ali 9mm OD(7mm ID) spring. Brass go with the 13mm OD (11mm ID). That will give you plenty of clearance for both. The ali springs come tightly wound, and are plenty rigid enough. I usually stretch them but if you leave them as is they will offer tons of strength for heavier stuff.

[rogerandre]

Huge thanks TylerR
Do you think that the 15mm OD (13mm ID) will be to big for the 223 brass ? I will order the 15mm OD (13mm ID) for 45 ACP anyways - If I can streamline that is great, but if to big I will just order the 13mm OD (11mm ID) as well.

[TylerR]

Huge thanks TylerR
Do you think that the 15mm OD (13mm ID) will be to big for the 223 brass ? I will order the 15mm OD (13mm ID) for 45 ACP anyways - If I can streamline that is great, but if to big I will just order the 13mm OD (11mm ID) as well.

I just checked and it should work fine. That said if you are going to take the time to order from ali, which is 3-4 weeks, I would order the 12mm spring as well. It's only a few extra bucks. That way you have all 3 sizes for anything that comes up.

[rogerandre]

Hi TylerR
Thanks. Does the below look in order ?

223 bullets => 9 mm OD/7 mm ID,
223 cases => 13 mm OD/11 mm ID
9 mm bullets => 12 mm OD/10 mm ID
9 mm cases => 12 mm OD/10 mm ID
45 ACP bullets => 15 mm OD/13 mm ID.
45 ACP cases => 15 mm OD/13 mm ID.

Then I can use the 12 mm OD/10 mm ID for 223 brass as well.

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

[TylerR]

Hi TylerR
Thanks. Does the below look in order ?

223 bullets => 9 mm OD/7 mm ID,
223 cases => 13 mm OD/11 mm ID
9 mm bullets => 12 mm OD/10 mm ID
9 mm cases => 12 mm OD/10 mm ID
45 ACP bullets => 15 mm OD/13 mm ID.
45 ACP cases => 15 mm OD/13 mm ID.

Then I can use the 12 mm OD/10 mm ID for 223 brass as well.

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

Yes, that's the ticket.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
If the proximity thread insert does not fit in the proximity housing should I just give the parts some sandpaper “love” ?
Correctly understood that the idea with the insert is to have a quick change capability ?

[TylerR]

Dear Team !
If the proximity thread insert does not fit in the proximity housing should I just give the parts some sandpaper “love” ?
Correctly understood that the idea with the insert is to have a quick change capability ?

You can use sandpaper. They should fit together without modification. What layer height did you print at, and is your printer well calibrated?
The insert is for quick change, as well as printing ease. If you don't mind screwing the sensor in and out when making caliber changes, you can always glue the insert in to the main housing.

[GWS]

Yes, layer height is so important. Also besides sandpaper, I sometimes had to remove imperfections inside from stringing and blobs....but those mostly went away with some new media retraction settings... Acetone to smooth the minor things inside where the threads slide can be important.

My first try was a disaster!

https://i.postimg.cc/HLsb8gRP/IMG-3900.jpg

Then I learned to tweak the printer settings, make the layer height .12mm, and put a new nozzle on. Much better!;)

https://i.postimg.cc/Wbbmd5sQ/IMG-4161.jpg

[TylerR]

I forgot to mention that I have posted quite a few updates recently. One of them is the new captured nut retention screw on the sensor housing. Now you can have the quick change feature without worrying about it backing out by mistake.
Another one is the new set screw on all of the drop tubes.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/6.%20Drop%20Tubes/Drop_Tube_Proximity_Housing.stl


I see CB is struggling a bit again today.....

[rogerandre]

You can use sandpaper. They should fit together without modification. What layer height did you print at, and is your printer well calibrated?
The insert is for quick change, as well as printing ease. If you don't mind screwing the sensor in and out when making caliber changes, you can always glue the insert in to the main housing.

Running 0.12 and printer well calibrated.
Had to do quite some work to get it to fit, took help from my Friend Mr Dremel.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team
Anyone experimenting with 2 wire proximity sensors (like this https://www.amazon.se/gp/product/B081DHS8VM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) ?
In the wiring schema not connecting the positive at all, and just connecting from Negative to Relay Negative In.

[TylerR]

Running 0.12 and printer well calibrated.
Had to do quite some work to get it to fit, took help from my Friend Mr Dremel.

That is definitely not normal. The parts are designed to fit without modification. There is a .15mm radial (.3mm diameter) difference between the two parts in CAD. So if it is tight then something is going on in the printing process.

[TylerR]

Dear Team
Anyone experimenting with 2 wire proximity sensors (like this https://www.amazon.se/gp/product/B081DHS8VM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) ?
In the wiring schema not connecting the positive at all, and just connecting from Negative to Relay Negative In.

I have no experience with these. It seems like the brown would go to positive as usual, and the blue would connect to the relay pin 1 (- in)?

found this:
https://www.cgco.com/news/14-panasonic/88-two-wire-inductive-proximity-sensors-the-universal-donor

[GWS]

I forgot to mention that I have posted quite a few updates recently. One of them is the new captured nut retention screw on the sensor housing. Now you can have the quick change feature without worrying about it backing out by mistake.
Another one is the new set screw on all of the drop tubes.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/6.%20Drop%20Tubes/Drop_Tube_Proximity_Housing.stl


I see CB is struggling a bit again today.....

Yesterday it was terrible.....I sent them a message.....10 minutes later it was moving like lightning. Then this morning early it was fast.....then around 8 MT it started slowing down again......now 10:30 it's fast again? Band width problems and traffic surges? Who knows.

Have not tried your new stuff yet.....sorta a "if it's not broke" thing so far. ;) May yet come in handy!

[rogerandre]

That is definitely not normal. The parts are designed to fit without modification. There is a .15mm radial difference between the two parts in CAD. So if it is tight then something is going on in the printing process.

Thanks for making me aware. I will keep an eye on this.

[TylerR]

Yesterday it was terrible.....I sent them a message.....10 minutes later it was moving like lightning. Then this morning early it was fast.....then around 8 MT it started slowing down again......now 10:30 it's fast again? Band width problems and traffic surges? Who knows.

Have not tried your new stuff yet.....sorta a "if it's not broke" thing so far. ;) May yet come in handy!

Oh I am all about if it aint broke don't fix it. Just want everyone to be aware and if you are starting the project fresh you may want to re-download.

[Gillie Dog]

That is definitely not normal. The parts are designed to fit without modification. There is a .15mm radial difference between the two parts in CAD. So if it is tight then something is going on in the printing process.


Thanks for making me aware. I will keep an eye on this.

Just FYI (for your information) I have found all TylerRs parts fit extremely well/properly with calibrated printer. Found I had to check extrusion a couple times as feed amount (steps) of extruder was off for (different) filament in use.

I have had issues with others parts mostly it appears circles/holes have more flat sides than TylerRs.

GD

[rogerandre]

Just me that is getting this issue (on both skirt and raft) for Brass_Base_Up_Drop_Hole_Adapter.stl ?
Same in Cura and Creality Slicer.

317307

[GWS]

Pretty sure that means the "model" is not laying flat on the bed and is cocked at an angle.

If I remember right you need to rotate the axis 30 degrees, but your model doesn't look quite right angle wise.

This is how mine downloaded....
https://i.postimg.cc/d3NgG9dd/Brass_Drop.png

I rotated it 30 degrees and printed it this way. (after adding a skirt)
https://i.postimg.cc/9Q7fPmXz/Rotated.png

But the shape of your raft may indicate you skewed something in addition since it doesn't look symmetric front to back.

[GWS]

Just FYI (for your information) I have found all TylerRs parts fit extremely well/properly with calibrated printer. Found I had to check extrusion a couple times as feed amount (steps) of extruder was off for (different) filament in use.

I have had issues with others parts mostly it appears circles/holes have more flat sides than TylerRs.

GD

Does Tinker Cad have a resolution setting? If so make it way higher. The triangles and flats get way closer to reality curves, and holes appear round instead of faceted. The downside is longer print time, but quality has its perks too....things fit better. That may be rogerandre's problem too.....except no....he's using TylerR's .stls not his.....unless his slicer doesn't keep the .stl resolution.....I wouldn't know having only used IdeaMaker.

[Gillie Dog]

Does Tinker Cad have a resolution setting? If so make it way higher. The triangles and flats get way closer to reality curves, and holes appear round instead of faceted. The downside is longer print time, but quality has its perks too....things fit better. That may be rogerandre's problem too.....except no....he's using TylerR's .stls not his.....unless his slicer doesn't keep the .stl resolution.....I wouldn't know having only used IdeaMaker.

What it has is "sides" and it maxes out at 64 (default is 20). What I do is make a "hole" with 64 sides that is nominal size of hole in part I get as a .stl put it in the part and see if it is cleaning up the hole or not, if not increase diameter by 0.1 mm and see what it does. It displays contrasting colors where the "hole" is taking away material to make the .stl hole more round.

TylerRs are in the 64 side range and round. I have found a couple holes which are 0.01mm out of round but that is so small it is ignored. Could be TinkerCad just measuring across flats of sides or some such. I figured out how to "measure" holes in parts which is a few steps and takes a couple minutes. Just did APP brass adapters to see what inside hole(s) sizes were.

Using the 64 sides setting things are pretty round for new or modified parts.

GD

[JStuhlmiller]

I just checked and it should work fine. That said if you are going to take the time to order from ali, which is 3-4 weeks, I would order the 12mm spring as well. It's only a few extra bucks. That way you have all 3 sizes for anything that comes up.

Plus having spare parts is never a bad thing.

[JStuhlmiller]

I have decided to buy a Mark 7 Apex 10 press to upgrade the bench. I will outfit it with a 3d printed bullet feeder. I will run it manual for a few thousand rounds to ensure it is dialed in and working flawless and the put an auto-drive on it. Does anyone have an Apex10?

I see it ships with a mount for a MBF and wondering if anyone has crafted a mount for the 3dBF for it?

[rogerandre]

Pretty sure that means the "model" is not laying flat on the bed and is cocked at an angle.

If I remember right you need to rotate the axis 30 degrees, but your model doesn't look quite right angle wise.

This is how mine downloaded....
https://i.postimg.cc/d3NgG9dd/Brass_Drop.png

I rotated it 30 degrees and printed it this way. (after adding a skirt)
https://i.postimg.cc/9Q7fPmXz/Rotated.png

But the shape of your raft may indicate you skewed something in addition since it doesn't look symmetric front to back.

The model appeared to be flat to the naked eye, but I took the lay flat option and Voila we are good again. Thanks !

[GWS]

I have decided to buy a Mark 7 Apex 10 press to upgrade the bench. I will outfit it with a 3d printed bullet feeder. I will run it manual for a few thousand rounds to ensure it is dialed in and working flawless and the put an auto-drive on it. Does anyone have an Apex10?

I see it ships with a mount for a MBF and wondering if anyone has crafted a mount for the 3dBF for it?

I only know one who has bought that press.....and he doesn't come by the forum anymore.....I'll email him and see what he did.;) Maybe he'll come by and post something tomorrow......He's the talented guy who created the "Manual" for TylerR.....

Shoot, I joined the forum years ago to make collators I couldn't afford otherwise.....or at least justify the expense. A Mark 7 is way above my needs....on the same order of thinking.....IOW's I need to stay in the cheap seats.;)

That was quick.....he just emailed me back with this: "I am using an official Mr. Bullet Feeder on my press as I wanted to minimize "hiccups" during full automation. I am not sure if the 3D project has a comparable mount, but please have a look at the picture I have sent. It might help approximate/locate a comparable mount from the project files.

TylerR.....any ideas? Anything you have in the downloads work with that? Below is the picture he sent:
https://i.postimg.cc/13MyjFVn/20230823-223836.jpg

When you get the press take pictures of the mount and measure the diameter of the hole the pivoting bolt goes through and we could probably design a plate connected to it to fasten to the bottom left holes in 3D printed collator base.

Update: the bolt size is M8 so the Dillon mount hole size of 10mm is perfect......but my original idea was too spread out and encroached on the drop hole and motor mount holes.....so I had to make it a lot smaller. First picture below shows where the new size fits. Second picture is the part in the orientation you would print it.

https://i.postimg.cc/zvjvnMkc/test-1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/kMF236dv/test-2.jpg

[Silverbullit]

I think links to amazon are OK, but not ebay. I've never used the speed cont. you specified.

.38sp brass.....by running brass you mean feeding brass from a collator, or from an APP?

From a collator, I use the large pistol brass collator plate on .357 ok. Tyler can tell you whether the small one has big enough in diameter holes to work with that protruding rim on the .357/.38 brass family. Case length is only 5mm shorter than .357.

As for an APP case inserts, I modified the .357 one already, and just raised the notch 5mm for .38. Both .357 and 38 Special .STLs are below:

317300

Both modified inserts prevent occasional sideways displacement of the brass that does happen once in a while with the original half cut design.

https://i.postimg.cc/yY9Bs9Mr/APP-357-38sp.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/m2BG6M0Y/357-stock-insert.jpg

........38 ..........357......original 357 with half cut (just holds it straight longer and prevents angled presentation to the shell holder.)

Thank you so very much mate!
Here is the speedcontroller I am looking at, do you think something like this could/would work as replacement and give a nice display/button alternative?

Thanks for the tip GillieDog, and yes, I think I can tweak the current box a touch to fit some funky stuff :)

[TylerR]

I only know one who has bought that press.....and he doesn't come by the forum anymore.....I'll email him and see what he did.;) Maybe he'll come by and post something tomorrow......He's the talented guy who created the "Manual" for TylerR.....

Shoot, I joined the forum years ago to make collators I couldn't afford otherwise.....or at least justify the expense. A Mark 7 is way above my needs....on the same order of thinking.....IOW's I need to stay in the cheap seats.;)

That was quick.....he just emailed me back with this: "I am using an official Mr. Bullet Feeder on my press as I wanted to minimize "hiccups" during full automation. I am not sure if the 3D project has a comparable mount, but please have a look at the picture I have sent. It might help approximate/locate a comparable mount from the project files.

TylerR.....any ideas? Anything you have in the downloads work with that? Below is the picture he sent:
https://i.postimg.cc/13MyjFVn/20230823-223836.jpg

When you get the press take pictures of the mount and measure the diameter of the hole the pivoting bolt goes through and we could probably design a plate connected to it to fasten to the bottom left holes in 3D printed collator base.
Like this example (just a concept test drawn in DSM.....bolt goes the length of the support and may need to reinforce the mount around the cylinder under the mounting plate second picture.)

https://i.postimg.cc/tTcTmxft/test.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/dtywm1Yd/TEST2.jpg

There is nothing like that in the project currently. Looks like what you designed could work.

[Gillie Dog]

Both modified inserts prevent occasional sideways displacement of the brass that does happen once in a while with the original half cut design.

https://i.postimg.cc/yY9Bs9Mr/APP-357-38sp.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/m2BG6M0Y/357-stock-insert.jpg

........38 ..........357......original 357 with half cut (just holds it straight longer and prevents angled presentation to the shell holder.)

Well now I have to redo mine to slot from half cut, sheeeesshhhh. :twisted:

GD

[GWS]

Well now I have to redo mine to slot from half cut, sheeeesshhhh. :twisted:

GD

Good for us.....keeps us on our toes. ;) Besides, if I don't print something often....I get rusty.....

[TylerR]

Well now I have to redo mine to slot from half cut, sheeeesshhhh. :twisted:

GD

You can always count on GWS to keep you on your toes.

[TylerR]

I only know one who has bought that press.....and he doesn't come by the forum anymore.....I'll email him and see what he did.;) Maybe he'll come by and post something tomorrow......He's the talented guy who created the "Manual" for TylerR.....

Shoot, I joined the forum years ago to make collators I couldn't afford otherwise.....or at least justify the expense. A Mark 7 is way above my needs....on the same order of thinking.....IOW's I need to stay in the cheap seats.;)

That was quick.....he just emailed me back with this: "I am using an official Mr. Bullet Feeder on my press as I wanted to minimize "hiccups" during full automation. I am not sure if the 3D project has a comparable mount, but please have a look at the picture I have sent. It might help approximate/locate a comparable mount from the project files.

TylerR.....any ideas? Anything you have in the downloads work with that? Below is the picture he sent:

When you get the press take pictures of the mount and measure the diameter of the hole the pivoting bolt goes through and we could probably design a plate connected to it to fasten to the bottom left holes in 3D printed collator base.
Like this example (just a concept test drawn in DSM.....bolt goes the length of the support and may need to reinforce the mount around the cylinder under the mounting plate second picture.)


Looking at it more it seems like this half of the dillon mount could be used by adding a spacer with little modification.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Dillon_Hang.stl

[GWS]

Looking at it more it seems like this half of the dillon mount could be used by adding a spacer with little modification.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Dillon_Hang.stl

You are right......I pulled the cylinder out is all and it looks like this:

https://i.postimg.cc/02gZKx1W/Test-3.jpg

Maybe move the cylinder down the side closer to the bottom to get it closer to their DAA mount position (raising the collator). The only other change I'd make is use the holes on top to resist better the weight of the bullet collator full of bullets. What do you bet that since this Mark 7 press started out emulating a Dillon that the Dillon Bolt might just be the same diameter.....but still safer to know what Lyman is using for sure.....waiting on our friend to let me know the dia. ;)

Update: a shorter version closer to DAA mount position: .....great idea TylerR!

Upper holes I would drill into the base to make it handle the weight.

https://i.postimg.cc/mrLs9DnB/Mk7_TylerR_Mount_Base.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/6QMNfKsR/Mk7-Tyler-R-Mount.jpg

Better....no supports!

[Gillie Dog]

Good for us.....keeps us on our toes. ;) Besides, if I don't print something often....I get rusty.....

I know, I know...................


You can always count on GWS to keep you on your toes.

I had to make a cheat sheet just to keep a list of the improvements you guys are doing so I can remember to update to them.

Give my old brain cells a headache.

However, keep it up guys, I am with you.

GD

[JStuhlmiller]

I only know one who has bought that press.....and he doesn't come by the forum anymore.....I'll email him and see what he did.;) Maybe he'll come by and post something tomorrow......He's the talented guy who created the "Manual" for TylerR.....

Shoot, I joined the forum years ago to make collators I couldn't afford otherwise.....or at least justify the expense. A Mark 7 is way above my needs....on the same order of thinking.....IOW's I need to stay in the cheap seats.;)

That was quick.....he just emailed me back with this: "I am using an official Mr. Bullet Feeder on my press as I wanted to minimize "hiccups" during full automation. I am not sure if the 3D project has a comparable mount, but please have a look at the picture I have sent. It might help approximate/locate a comparable mount from the project files.

TylerR.....any ideas? Anything you have in the downloads work with that? Below is the picture he sent:
https://i.postimg.cc/13MyjFVn/20230823-223836.jpg

When you get the press take pictures of the mount and measure the diameter of the hole the pivoting bolt goes through and we could probably design a plate connected to it to fasten to the bottom left holes in 3D printed collator base.
Like this example (just a concept test drawn in DSM.....bolt goes the length of the support and may need to reinforce the mount around the cylinder under the mounting plate second picture.)

https://i.postimg.cc/tTcTmxft/test.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/dtywm1Yd/TEST2.jpg

GWS thank you for the insight. As you can tell I do have a bit of money. I do the printed stuff because I am an engineer and I like to be able to fix my own stuff and hate relying on customer service to get back up and running WHEN stuff goes sideways.

I shoot ALOT and this and hunting is all I do so ..

[GWS]

GWS thank you for the insight. As you can tell I do have a bit of money. I do the printed stuff because I am an engineer and I like to be able to fix my own stuff and hate relying on customer service to get back up and running WHEN stuff goes sideways.

I shoot ALOT and this and hunting is all I do so ..

All you do.....then you must be on the retired side....good deal. Me? Similar but architectural, and the 3D printer is a good hobby in a hobby. Keeps me sharper.

These two designs are way different and both could work with a little tweaking.....the first one needs to be shortened a little, because I was guessing. Then TylerR added an idea so I tried that....but that one will be a pain to print the way it is currently....more development needed.

I was thinking the first one could be printed vertically with the tube on top....but again since I don't have your press to test with, guesses.....and TylerR's design, based on his collator so the bottom holes are right, shows it needs to be shortened a bit.

Assuming you have used cad being an engineer.....so ideas (insight) is probably all you need as you learn making .stl files and convert them to .gcode files you print with.

I have used Autocad for 50 years, but TylerR made this whole project mostly with DesignSpark Mechanical, with a little help from Openscad, a programmers cad, on the collator plates. In the interest to be more compatible with his work, I downloaded those two "free" versions and learned them....and that's where we are. ;) Good luck with your coming new press.

[TylerR]

All you do.....then you must be on the retired side....good deal. Me? Similar but architectural, and the 3D printer is a good hobby in a hobby. Keeps me sharper.

These two designs are way different and both could work with a little tweaking.....the first one needs to be shortened a little, because I was guessing. Then TylerR added an idea so I tried that....but that one will be a pain to print the way it is currently....more development needed.

I was thinking the first one could be printed vertically with the tube on top....but again since I don't have your press to test with, guesses.....and TylerR's design shows it needs to be shortened a bit.

Assuming you have used cad being an engineer.....so ideas (insight) is probably all you need as you learn making .stl files and convert them to .gcode files you print with.

I have used Autocad for 50 years, but TylerR made this whole project mostly with DesignSpark Mechanical, with a little help from Openscad, a programmers cad, on the collator plates. In the interest to be more compatible with his work, I downloaded those two "free" versions and learned them....and that's where we are. ;) Good luck with your coming new press.

Did you happen to get the bolt size from our friend O?

[GWS]

Update: He answered the following:


I believe it uses a 5/16" bolt as the Mr. Bullet Feeder manual says that it uses an M8 screw which I verified. M8 converts closest to 5/16" as far as I know.

So i'm thinking 10mm diameter hole as used in the Dillon mount is perfect for it.

I've had to redo my flat version as I was forgetting there's the main drop tube it encroaches on and a motor ;).....so your version is the only option for now. will erase the "wishful thinking" pictures.....doh. ;)

Anybody else having trouble with CastBoolits becoming a slug? What's going on.....only site I use that does that. Tonight its fast again, in the daytime....takes several minutes to load or save or do anything.....

[TylerR]

That mount can be printed without supports, like this.

317391

Just need to know how long the cylinder should be to fit the Mark 7 best.

[GWS]

That mount can be printed without supports, like this.

317391

Just need to know how long the cylinder should be to fit the Mark 7 best.

I think about 2" would do fine. But bracket is too long.....why I shortened it....and dropped the cylinder to the top inside of the "L".

But I'm withdrawing what I've done....since the point was ideas not products.....and I don't have the press. So that's done, Carry on.:)

I'm about done with CastBoolits.....can't abide by this up and down performance. I'll check back in a week or so to see it they found a cure.......none of the other forums are having this problem, but I'm not going to wait 10 minutes to save something only to have it "time-out" half the time before its done.

[TylerR]

But bracket is too long.....why I shortened it.... What is the issue with it extending to the top of the collator like usual?

and dropped the cylinder to the top inside of the "L". I did lower the cylinder close to the bottom.

But I'm withdrawing what I've done....since the point was ideas not products.....and I don't have the press. So that's done, Carry on.:) I am done fiddling with it unless we get more feedback from a Mark 7 owner

I'm about done with CastBoolits.....can't abide by this up and down performance. I'll check back in a week or so to see it they found a cure.......none of the other forums are having this problem, but I'm not going to wait 10 minutes to save something only to have it "time-out" half the time before its done. Agreed! It's painful.



Feel free to email me any thoughts you have instead of posting my friend.

[GWS]

I checked back to see if you needed anything else.....and saw this comment:

"What is the issue with it extending to the top of the collator like usual?" and CB is fast for a moment so I'll send you a picture that demonstrates:

https://i.postimg.cc/02gZKx1W/Test_3.jpg

Ignoring the height of the cylinder that you lowered, notice the top is above the base so you can't use one of the top holes for support. So I lowered....

https://i.postimg.cc/15Zc5HDb/Test_5.jpg

[TylerR]

Ignoring the height of the cylinder that you lowered, notice the top is above the base so you can't use one of the top holes for support. So I lowered....


Yes, you can only get one of the upper screws in on that side, but I think you are going to want it secured to some extent. I have mounted them this way in the past.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team,
Anyone facing the same challenge as I do, and have a cool resolution ? APP_Bullet_Slide_9mm.stl
Sunlu PLA+, calibrated printer317556, follow settings in the manual.


Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

[Gillie Dog]

Dear Team,
Anyone facing the same challenge as I do, and have a cool resolution ? APP_Bullet_Slide_9mm.stl
Sunlu PLA+, calibrated printer317556, follow settings in the manual.


Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

It appears you are printing on a raft.

My guess is that could be the problem with the little point of the hook adhesion even though the manual says to use raft. I use "skirt" as bed adhesion is good with polypropylene bed I use. If you need better adhesion possibly try "brim" and see how it goes.

Maybe the hook will break off when removing from standard bed after printing?

GD

[rogerandre]

It appears you are printing on a raft.

My guess is that could be the problem with the little point of the hook even though the manual says to use raft. I use "skirt" as bed adhesion is good with polypropylene bed I use. If you need better adhesion possibly try "brim" and see how it goes.

GD

Thanks GD,
Yes printing on raft. Will try skirt/brim once my current print is completed. Will revert.
///Roger

[Tom Myers]

Dear Team,
Anyone facing the same challenge as I do, and have a cool resolution ? APP_Bullet_Slide_9mm.stl
Sunlu PLA+, calibrated printer317556, follow settings in the manual.


Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

Orient the model with the top on the build plate.
Set your resolution to the highest setting available on your slicer.
Enable Brim.
Enable supports, (everywhere).

Hope this helps.

317589

[JStuhlmiller]

I am a network engineer so my cad skills are lacking. I'm better with electrical systems. I am waiting on my mounting plate still.

[rogerandre]

Orient the model with the top on the build plate.
Set your resolution to the highest setting available on your slicer.
Enable Brim.
Enable supports, (everywhere).

Hope this helps.

317589

Hi Tom !

Will the support not leave plastic residue that will cause friction ? I will give your suggestion a shot. Brim on standing up didnt fly .....
///Roger317664

[Tom Myers]

Hi Tom !

Will the support not leave plastic residue that will cause friction ? I will give your suggestion a shot. Brim on standing up didnt fly .....
///Roger317664

Yes. it probably will leave residue. You can take a small flat bit screwdriver and run along inside the grooves to scrape most of it off then use a small flat file to smooth the grooves to fit your slider rail.

Support residue is, in my opinion, the greatest bugaboo in 3D printing.

[Gillie Dog]

Thanks GD,
Yes printing on raft. Will try skirt/brim once my current print is completed. Will revert.
///Roger

From looking at your last attempts my curiosity got the best of me and so printed a sample.

There must be something else wrong like maybe the slicer, I do not know. I agree with Tom about supports as do many others, and avoid when possible.

This was printed .12 layer, Z hop enabled.

317667317668

GD

[Tom Myers]

Roger which slicer and printer are you using?

I took a closer look at the model and I believe that, if the slider were to be oriented to stand on it's end then use a raft, 0.12 resolution, and use supports with the overhead angle set to 65 degrees, that should give you a good clean print with little support residue to clean up.

I need one of these any way so, as soon as my printer completes the present project, I will load it up with the 9mm slider and can then give a definite recommendation.
My Slicer is Cura Ver 5.4.0 amd my printer is an Ender 3V2 with Auto Bed Leveling. If I pay attention and get everything set just right, I does a really wonderful job on the models.

"317669Tree"

[TylerR]

Roger which slicer and printer are you using?

I took a closer look at the model and I believe that, if the slider were to be oriented to stand on it's end then use a raft, 0.12 resolution, and use supports with the overhead angle set to 65 degrees, that should give you a good clean print with little support residue to clean up.



This is the way right here. I use 60 degree overhang which is specified in the manual, and standard supports. I do not use supports for round holes printed horizontally. This is one of the more difficult parts in the whole project, and the only one that requires support for the little tab. I print on a poly bed and when it is leveled and cleaned properly I have no issues.

[Tom Myers]

Tyler,
My old brain is getting more and more feeble. I am running a new computer and cannot remember what is needed to open and how to run your partsgenerator.
It sure is frustrating to be unable to do what used to be so easy to comprehend.

[TylerR]

Tyler,
My old brain is getting more and more feeble. I am running a new computer and cannot remember what is needed to open and how to run your partsgenerator.
It sure is frustrating to be unable to do what used to be so easy to comprehend.

I am starting to understand the feeling my friend. You need to install Java.
https://www.java.com/download/ie_manual.jsp

[Tom Myers]

I am starting to understand the feeling my friend. You need to install Java.
https://www.java.com/download/ie_manual.jsp

Tyler,
Thanks for your response.
I just discovered that I had some off-brand Java installed. Deleted that and installed the real thing. All is well now
Thanks again.

[Tom Myers]

Printed with Tree supports and a raft. It turned out OK but took a lot of time and filament .
Next, to compare appearance and functionality, I'll print one with the same orientation but with no supports and no Bed adhesion.

[rogerandre]

This is the way right here. I use 60 degree overhang which is specified in the manual, and standard supports. I do not use supports for round holes printed horizontally. This is one of the more difficult parts in the whole project, and the only one that requires support for the little tab. I print on a poly bed and when it is leveled and cleaned properly I have no issues.

I am using Creality Slicer, but will make a test with Cura as well.
Printer is Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro. Calibrated. Will revert after Cura test.

[rogerandre]

I am using Creality Slicer, but will make a test with Cura as well.
Printer is Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro. Calibrated. Will revert after Cura test.

Tested with Cura => No luck (same issue)
Tested with Skirt => No luck (same issue)
Tested with Raft and Support => No luck (same issue). See picture. Very strange.....
317687

[GWS]

Tested with Cura => No luck (same issue)
Tested with Skirt => No luck (same issue)
Tested with Raft and Support => No luck (same issue). See picture. Very strange.....
317687

It looks like the hook is falling over on it's support. If the support under it is only a thread or two wide, it could happen. I Never use rafts, for me they are more a pain than they are worth. On this model with it oriented vertically...probably the best way....I would look at your support options and use larger columns and make sure "support to the bed" only is checked.

The picture above shows a really rough bed and glossy.....what kind of bed is it? Could you sandpaper it smoother with some 220 grit wet/dry....which would smooth it up some yet, make the bed surface less glossy and get more adhesion. That said support under the hook is not wide enough to keep it from toppling over.

Another thing is the printer head has to be clean...no blobs that could touch the model. If it touches that hook in any way it will cause a fail.

I use the polypropylene bed TylerR turned me on to......tried others.....refuse to deal with glue or tape. No need with polyp. Most of my printing problems went away.....but with any bed it has to be clean......I use 99% isopropyl alcohol to wipe my bed down before every print......no exceptions....worth it.

[rogerandre]

It looks like the hook is falling over on it's support. If the support under it is only a thread or two wide, it could happen. I Never use rafts, for me they are more a pain than they are worth. On this model with it oriented vertically...probably the best way....I would look at your support options and use larger columns and make sure "support to the bed" only is checked.

The picture above shows a really rough bed and glossy.....what kind of bed is it? Could you sandpaper it smoother with some 220 grit wet/dry....which would smooth it up some yet, make the bed surface less glossy and get more adhesion. That said support under the hook is not wide enough to keep it from toppling over.

Another thing is the printer head has to be clean...no blobs that could touch the model. If it touches that hook in any way it will cause a fail.

I use the polypropylene bed TylerR turned me on to......tried others.....refuse to deal with glue or tape. No need with polyp. Most of my printing problems went away.....but with any bed it has to be clean......I use 99% isopropyl alcohol to wipe my bed down before every print......no exceptions....worth it.

Printer bed is spring steel PEI magnetic build plate that comes standard with the printer. Not had any issues before.
Will test other orientation and live with the residue. Thanks for the help !

[GWS]

Printer bed is spring steel PEI magnetic build plate that comes standard with the printer. Not had any issues before.
Will test other orientation and live with the residue. Thanks for the help !

I've been where you are, and it's very frustrating. Try a good alcohol wipe on your PEI plate. I've never printed this part because I don't process bullets, so I decided to get some first hand experience. Printing as I post (and found out I assumed wrong about hook support....there is no support for the hook since it sits on the plate).....but I have got past the hook already and no problems at all using no supports no raft and no brim, just a skirt to help me set initial Z height.....which I do every time looking for the perfect slight flat on top of the first layer.

Here's a video to show you how it worked on my Creality CR10v2 machine, using Overture PLA Professional black, using a .12 layer height zero support on my polyp bed....temp. 215C , 65C on the bed. No Z hop.....doesn't work well with either my slicer or printer. Fill is set to 18 percent. I stopped the video to show you, but the print is still going for another 2 hours.;)

I don't expect you to sit and watch the video....boring....but you can use your cursor and slide through the video quickly to see how it worked, with no raft or support.


https://youtu.be/fhEl6ogv15c

The more I think about this, the more I think bed leveling may be your problem. So that the nozzle hits the print....it don't take much at .12mm layer height to give you a bad day.

I bought TH3D's EZabl 2 system that uses a prox sensor to level and it has been simple & wonderful.

Print is done......not bad....

https://i.postimg.cc/XY8L7Y2G/IMG-4263.jpg
Minimal cleanup to do..... notice above how one can "baby step" the Z while printing the skirt, until it's a little flat on top?
Because I have TH3D's software that came with the leveler...I just click Creality's control button twice quick and it automatically goes into "babystepping Z" mode and I can turn the knob and the nozzle goes up and down ever so slightly until you get the flat top you want. Then click once and you are back to the main screen.
https://i.postimg.cc/xd1RkV7s/IMG-4264.jpg

Somebody is bound to ask where TylerR, I and others purchased the Polyp beds:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Mamorubot&ref=bl_dp_s_web_0

I should explain why babystepping.....my first layer height is set as is yours by the slicer software. But the problem is, that media differs.....Overture Professional lays down different from Zyltec PLA, for example, even Zyltec PLA and Zyltec PLA composite, like their "Satin" colors differ. Not much different, but enough that causes the first layer to vary. Then there is imperfections in the printers....where EXACT height can vary a little.....I mean how thick is .012mm!? can a printer vary a hundredth or two from print to print? In my experience, yes it can.....so to start from an even playing field, (printing field), I babystep Z height at the beginning of each print....to make sure the setting for the first layer is where I want it. Perfect first layer often means a perfect print, unless the nozzle is worn, or the media tubing is gunked up.

[rogerandre]

I've been where you are, and it's very frustrating. Try a good alcohol wipe on your PEI plate. I've never printed this part because I don't process bullets, so I decided to get some first hand experience. Printing as I post (and found out I assumed wrong about hook support....there is no support for the hook since it sits on the plate).....but I have got past the hook already and no problems at all using no supports no raft and no brim, just a skirt to help me set initial Z height.....which I do every time looking for the perfect slight flat on top of the first layer.

Here's a video to show you how it worked on my Creality CR10v2 machine, using Overture PLA Professional black, using a .12 layer height zero support on my polyp bed....temp. 215C , 65C on the bed. No Z hop.....doesn't work well with either my slicer or printer. Fill is set to 18 percent. I stopped the video to show you, but the print is still going for another 2 hours.;)

I don't expect you to sit and watch the video....boring....but you can use your cursor and slide through the video quickly to see how it worked, with no raft or support.


https://youtu.be/fhEl6ogv15c

The more I think about this, the more I think bed leveling may be your problem. So that the nozzle hits the print....it don't take much at .12mm layer height to give you a bad day.

I bought TH3D's EZabl 2 system that uses a prox sensor to level and it has been simple & wonderful.

Print is done......not bad....

https://i.postimg.cc/XY8L7Y2G/IMG-4263.jpg
Minimal cleanup to do..... notice above how one can "baby step" the Z while printing the skirt, until it's a little flat on top?
Because I have TH3D's software that came with the leveler...I just click Creality's control button twice quick and it automatically goes into "babystepping Z" mode and I can turn the knob and the nozzle goes up and down ever so slightly until you get the flat top you want. Then click once and you are back to the main screen.
https://i.postimg.cc/xd1RkV7s/IMG-4264.jpg

Somebody is bound to ask where TylerR, I and others purchased the Polyp beds:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Mamorubot&ref=bl_dp_s_web_0

I should explain why babystepping.....my first layer height is set as is yours by the slicer software. But the problem is, that media differs.....Overture Professional lays down different from Zyltec PLA, for example, even Zyltec PLA and Zyltec PLA composite, like their "Satin" colors differ. Not much different, but enough that causes the first layer to vary. Then there is imperfections in the printers....where EXACT height can vary a little.....I mean how thick is .012mm!? can a printer vary a hundredth or two from print to print? In my experience, yes it can.....so to start from an even playing field, (printing field), I babystep Z height at the beginning of each print....to make sure the setting for the first layer is where I want it. Perfect first layer often means a perfect print, unless the nozzle is worn, or the media tubing is gunked up.

Huge thanks for fantastic feedback.
My bet is also on that the nozzle (and/or gunk) hits the print). Thing is that I have never seen this before. There is a first for everything. Will continue to experiment.
Once again thanks !

[GWS]

You are welcome, and triple check bed leveling. These printers are addicting and highly worthwhile........when they are working right.;)

If you don't already, always keep a new feed tube and nozzle handy. I'm reminded of the time I got in a hurry and clipped "dry" media from the bottom of the nozzle with the mini diagonal cutter. I got the nozzle tip just a tad, did not notice and ruined it......what a mess....it fed media in blobs! We are often our worst enemy. Live and learn. I've done about every thing wrong more than once.

[Gillie Dog]

The more I think about this, the more I think bed leveling may be your problem. So that the nozzle hits the print....it don't take much at .12mm layer height to give you a bad day.

My thought also, nozzle hitting print, so suggested ZHop, I use it all the time with no issue doing large flat prints, eliminates lines on surface of large flat surfaces like collator plates and slide plates.

This is a weird one. The bottom of the cone extending out to the hook on his is not printing well as it comes off the body also like photo in post #6647. And that photo shows brim pulled up when print was hit by nozzle, it looks like. There is something going on I do not understand.

I assume .12mm layer height, .4 mm nozzle, 210C or better with PLA, 60C bed with PLA. And yes, the poly bed is an advantage over the glass my printer came with also. I found adjusting z offset baby steps is required each print even if pre-heating the bed 30 minutes each print before homing and auto bed level.

GD

[GWS]

Yeah, I love the idea of ZHop, mine just doesn't do it well.....haven't figured out whether it's the printer software, or the slicer.....or the user.....probably the latter.

[Gillie Dog]

My bet is also on that the nozzle (and/or gunk) hits the print). Thing is that I have never seen this before. There is a first for everything.

So just guessing here, what about the gantry not level with the bed/frame?

Bed level should take care of it if it is consistent throughout travel, but ?????????

My OCD made me tie both Z lead screws together with a belt which made gantry dead level at all times in the complete travel. (My machines Z motors are not electronically synced)

GD

[GWS]

Someone was wondering what the above part I just printed was for.....For quick changing cast boolit sizing on a Lee APP....best described by TylerR's own video. The part I printed above was the .40 s&w size......the video shows him sizing two calibers so two slides were used. Which two calibers I don't know. Works pretty slick!

https://vimeo.com/517852456


https://vimeo.com/517852456

TylerR if you'd prefer me to erase this video, message me. Not wanting to step on toes. Pretty quiet on here this weekend. If it keeps up I may retire....;) Funny thing is.....I AM trying to retire from business....getting bored.....thought I'd be celebrating.....

[TylerR]

Someone was wondering what the above part I just printed was for.....For quick changing cast boolit sizing on a Lee APP....best described by TylerR's own video. The part I printed above was the .40 s&w size......the video shows him sizing two calibers so two slides were used. Which two calibers I don't know. Works pretty slick!

TylerR if you'd prefer me to erase this video, message me. Not wanting to step on toes. Pretty quiet on here this weekend. If it keeps up I may retire....;) Funny thing is.....I AM trying to retire from business....getting bored.....thought I'd be celebrating.....

No need to remove GWS. Now go celebrate retirement!

[Silverbullit]

Oh my friends..... my printer is spitting out these;
317908
317909
317908

:dung_hits_fan:

[GWS]

Need more info. What media, what temperatures on the bed and the nozzle, what bed, what leveling system. I finally stopped getting that sort of thing with PLA, when I bought a polypropylene bed, set temperatures to 65C/215C, babystepped every first layer, and bought TH3D's bed leveling system for my CR10 V2.

Are those AmmoMike collator bases? They look that small....

[MSUICEMAN]

Oh my friends..... my printer is spitting out these;
317908
317909
317908

:dung_hits_fan:For times sake... I'd probably fill that with JB weld, sand flush, prime and paint. Just be done with it.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Silverbullit]

It is PetG and it is the files that collects in a .zip when you use the "Parts Generator.jar".
So it should not be AmmoMikes bases but the ones from the Parts Generator.jar?
Weird is that I first printed it out before I noticed the infill/wall count advice, and this turned out good.
Now I added the recommended wall and infill and voila... I have them buttcracks in the main bodies. Hmmm

Theres a lot of updates and stuff that comes with the ghost of the infernal bugs, and I dont know if this played a role in this enigma?

I simply changed the filament type from generic petg to brand petg with the exact same settings all the way through both subsettings/advanced settings and the settings of the filament brands literally cloned with the slight difference of the naming... and I got another o.k. print right now?!?

Is that split pherhaps something that lies dormant in the .stl files?
Rather curious at what might be going on here? *scratching my bald head*

Oh and Sweden here, I dunno what JB weld is, it is some kind of epoxy maybe?

[TylerR]

It is PetG and it is the files that collects in a .zip when you use the "Parts Generator.jar".
So it should not be AmmoMikes bases but the ones from the Parts Generator.jar?
Weird is that I first printed it out before I noticed the infill/wall count advice, and this turned out good.
Now I added the recommended wall and infill and voila... I have them buttcracks in the main bodies. Hmmm

Theres a lot of updates and stuff that comes with the ghost of the infernal bugs, and I dont know if this played a role in this enigma?

I simply changed the filament type from generic petg to brand petg with the exact same settings all the way through both subsettings/advanced settings and the settings of the filament brands literally cloned with the slight difference of the naming... and I got another o.k. print right now?!?

Is that split pherhaps something that lies dormant in the .stl files?
Rather curious at what might be going on here? *scratching my bald head*

Oh and Sweden here, I dunno what JB weld is, it is some kind of epoxy maybe?

Definitely not that.

PETG is finicky. Could have to do with the change of filament brands. For this project I go with PLA+ exclusively.

ETA: Yes JB weld is an epoxy. Original formula was for gluing metal, but it works very well on just about anything.
https://www.amazon.com/KwikWeld-Minute-Epoxy-Reinforced-Strength/dp/B0B5VJFK64/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=jb%2Bweld&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

[TylerR]

Need more info. What media, what temperatures on the bed and the nozzle, what bed, what leveling system. I finally stopped getting that sort of thing with PLA, when I bought a polypropylene bed, set temperatures to 65C/215C, babystepped every first layer, and bought TH3D's bed leveling system for my CR10 V2.

Are those AmmoMike collator bases? They look that small....

They are definitely mine. Can tell just from the holes.

[GWS]

Then he's a big Swede with big hands, maybe! :)

JB Weld is good stuff but it's dark grey/black. My choice would be a white epoxy putty so I can mix just a little yellow water-based paint in it to match closer. I have never used Petg. And won't unless I need to make something that gets sun and/or has to handle more heat. PLA is so much easier to print with, say those who have used both, and it is the stuff the specs of this project was made for.

[Silverbullit]

Haha, well not really mate.
My boss tells me (boss as in g/f) that I have the strength of 10 hamsters..... and that I'm also hung like one! [smilie=p:
*women*

I started off with PetG and mostly it has printed usable prints.
Came as an recommendations since, like you put it, it is supposed to have better strength, chemical & uv resistance?

I amazoned the english website and found a dual syringe set with JB Weld for further adventures! :drinks:

[GWS]

Just looking at those pictures again, I can't understand why or how that even happens.......no matter what type of media.

When did you notice the cracks.....after it printed or during?......and if during, how far up was the current printing layer above it, when it warped and split?

It's one thing to patch it.....fine and good....but would be nice to know how to prevent it. Anyone have any ideas on the why?

[Silverbullit]

Everything else printed pretty amazing in PetG,
well until I tried printing the Bullet Feed Dies...

317999

Heres samples, ALL are different settings (starting from the recommended from UserManual.pdf) and different brands of PetG manufacturers (StrongHold, eSun, 3D-Fils, R3D, AzureFilm, asf all transparent red are StrongHold's PetG since that is the one that printed flawlessly until right now.) oh, and there are a lot more where these came from but they all look the same.
I tried rolling back the softwares and firmwares to 3 other versions that also worked previously, no differences so I am updating the whole she-bang after I finished reloading .38's for tomorrows cup match in PPC... *sigh so much I wanna do, so little time... of course doesn't help I'm a lazy fatarse either...* :confused:

The 9mm feeder die prints good if the spaghetti monster does not devour it, the trouble is with the 45acp bullet feeder die of whom all failed prints are.

Any thoughts from you gurus and masters of the mind that I greatly look up to would be utmost appreciated!


Do you all print the dies with PLA?
I have ordered one of those suspicious looking PLA+ rolls while waiting your feedback on this one... hmm just strikes me that I might have one or two small samples of PLA with the printer... like 2 x times 0,10kg or something'ish like that?!?
(Orange and hmm I have some vague memory pictures of Orange and one more color... also got another sample with something saying xxxx-cf after but the roll was smashed by the postal "service's" and the wrapper looked like a porcupine gangbang rubber, our swedish post officials can sure wreckabagged goods... As my understanding is "cf" is highly hygroscopic and wont print due to water damage if wrapper cracked in the open so I cant use it after postofficials went postal on the delivery right?)

Anyhows I followed all recommendations and I tried different extrusions ranging from 0,20 0,16, 0,12 0,08 and different infills/walls/speeds but they all come out with that same failure...
I'm really curious how you managed to make yours mint print mates?!?

Oh and yes, should take the opportunity to ask while on the Bullet Feeding Dies. What is the .stl called for the "nut" to the BulletFeederDie's? (It does not show up in the directories put together using the wonderful .jar)

Have a wonderful weekend mates and may the force be with you,
/Silverbullit epic level nooob

[TylerR]

Everything else printed pretty amazing in PetG,
well until I tried printing the Bullet Feed Dies...

317999

Heres samples, ALL are different settings (starting from the recommended from UserManual.pdf) and different brands of PetG manufacturers (StrongHold, eSun, 3D-Fils, R3D, AzureFilm, asf all transparent red are StrongHold's PetG since that is the one that printed flawlessly until right now.) oh, and there are a lot more where these came from but they all look the same.
I tried rolling back the softwares and firmwares to 3 other versions that also worked previously, no differences so I am updating the whole she-bang after I finished reloading .38's for tomorrows cup match in PPC... *sigh so much I wanna do, so little time... of course doesn't help I'm a lazy fatarse either...* :confused:

The 9mm feeder die prints good if the spaghetti monster does not devour it, the trouble is with the 45acp bullet feeder die of whom all failed prints are.

Any thoughts from you gurus and masters of the mind that I greatly look up to would be utmost appreciated!


Do you all print the dies with PLA?
I have ordered one of those suspicious looking PLA+ rolls while waiting your feedback on this one... hmm just strikes me that I might have one or two small samples of PLA with the printer... like 2 x times 0,10kg or something'ish like that?!?
(Orange and hmm I have some vague memory pictures of Orange and one more color... also got another sample with something saying xxxx-cf after but the roll was smashed by the postal "service's" and the wrapper looked like a porcupine gangbang rubber, our swedish post officials can sure wreckabagged goods... As my understanding is "cf" is highly hygroscopic and wont print due to water damage if wrapper cracked in the open so I cant use it after postofficials went postal on the delivery right?)

Anyhows I followed all recommendations and I tried different extrusions ranging from 0,20 0,16, 0,12 0,08 and different infills/walls/speeds but they all come out with that same failure...
I'm really curious how you managed to make yours mint print mates?!?

Oh and yes, should take the opportunity to ask while on the Bullet Feeding Dies. What is the .stl called for the "nut" to the BulletFeederDie's? (It does not show up in the directories put together using the wonderful .jar)

Have a wonderful weekend mates and may the force be with you,
/Silverbullit epic level nooob

If you are having trouble especially with the .45 die, it tells me that your slicer is eliminating thin walls. We have seen this issue before. I can't tell you for sure which setting in your slicer that needs to be changed, but that is one of the issues.

The lock ring is in the bullet feed dies folder in the download.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/7.%20Bullet%20Feed%20Dies/Lock_Ring.stl

[GWS]

That's probably it......heck I did not even know what the thin wall settings were for! Good thing TylerR did. Hang in there, it gets better......took me a while to get past the worst frustrations.....always seemed to find another every time I got past the last one for a time.

BTW Silverbullit, what printer and slicer do you use?

[Silverbullit]

Yo mate,
I have one of them X1's that BambuLab makes and I use their software a.i. their default slicer software.

I am trying to find settings related to thin wall settings,
I tried unchecking both the below pair,
"Detect Narrow Solid Infill"
"Assure Vertical Wall Thickness"

And the print turned out even worse *sigh* literally fell apart in two pieces when I carefully lifted out the build plate.

I checked the "advanced" box to get up all choices in each tab, also went in to the tabs of the particular filament choice/nozzle override settings but I find nothing there neither :/
Thanks for trying mates

[GWS]

May be time to try what I use, IdeaMaker, or what TylerR uses, Cura. Hopefully you can find a printing template that'll work for your printer. I started out with Creality's slicer, and found it just barely usable, so I found IdeaMaker to try and ran with it. Both Cura and IdeaMaker are free....and there are others as well.

[GWS]

Well I think you want to detect thin walls so checking not unchecking makes the most sense.

I looked around for you and found this on a Bambulab forum:

https://i.postimg.cc/XNGrrX7G/Screenshot-2023-09-16-160208.jpg

Maybe that will help.....I'll keep my eye out there if it doesn't.

[Silverbullit]

Yo mates,
just got home from todays Cup matches.

I will try everything from start, tho thin line not making any difference yesterday it got me thinking of redoing yesterdays highlights.
However I will do some proper reboots and reset everything and then save and restart the whole shebang again and try it again starting with the thin line checked.
(Got this thought during the rainy windy competition today that all them firmware and software rollbacks and forth pherhaps got it not properly registering stuff so... maybe smart to try from start?!?)

Sending print right now and I'll get back later (at least a stiff 50 mins and some secs printtime)

Thanks for hangin in there and

[TylerR]

Yo mates,
just got home from todays Cup matches.

I will try everything from start, tho thin line not making any difference yesterday it got me thinking of redoing yesterdays highlights.
However I will do some proper reboots and reset everything and then save and restart the whole shebang again and try it again starting with the thin line checked.
(Got this thought during the rainy windy competition today that all them firmware and software rollbacks and forth pherhaps got it not properly registering stuff so... maybe smart to try from start?!?)

Sending print right now and I'll get back later (at least a stiff 50 mins and some secs printtime)

Thanks for hangin in there and

Did you make the change GWS posted?

[Silverbullit]

Well I think you want to detect thin walls so checking not unchecking makes the most sense.

I looked around for you and found this on a Bambulab forum:

https://i.postimg.cc/XNGrrX7G/Screenshot-2023-09-16-160208.jpg

Maybe that will help.....I'll keep my eye out there if it doesn't.
Yo mate, after saved settings & reboots it suddenly works! I now have wonderfully perfect printed 45acp bullet feeder dies!!!
You the man GWS & of course TyleR too!!! ������

Thin line seems to indeed have been the culprit, my confusion is why it did not work @ first prior to saves and reboots?!?

Oh and sorry for not replying yesterdat, Im slow lazy and my g/f thought it was a priority to drive MIL to the emergency over printing bullet/shooter related stuff. Butt that was the wrong topic to object upon as both suddenly started taking deep breaths and puff clouds of napalm fire @ me... *scared*

Anyway I bravely escaped from the dragon lai... emergency and finished printing the bfdies (bulletfeeder dies, not boyfrienddies) and they are perfect!!!

Hey mates, anyone got a fridge full of budlights and room for an escapee, an fire extinguisher and an x1 printer who needs to lay low a couple of breaths?

[Shooter74]

Greg,
Any idea where I can purchase a 3d slider from, I have opted not to buy a printer just yet, cannot find anyone to print for me.

Thanks
Mike

[TylerR]

Greg,
Any idea where I can purchase a 3d slider from, I have opted not to buy a printer just yet, cannot find anyone to print for me.

Thanks
Mike

which slider are you looking for. I can send you one for cost of shipping.

[GWS]

Tyler, Shooter74 posted a request to buy this on THR. So I sent him this .STL hoping he'd find a friend or library who could print it for him. Good of you to offer....I can't match that right now. But here's the .STL done vertically the way I think we print this.....if my memory is right.....with supports to the bed.

I just noticed you answered my email......I was remembering 60% overhang not 85%, so glad I asked. I was going to print another one for me so had just recently made the vertical .stl, which was timely, because a new APP owner was experiencing what we did with the stock part, 3 years ago. And I told them about your improvement over my paperclip fix. ;)

link to that thread if you're curious: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-app-not-properly-positioning-cases.923396/

[TylerR]

Tyler, Shooter74 posted a request to buy this on THR. So I sent him this .STL hoping he'd find a friend or library who could print it for him. Good of you to offer....I can't match that right now. But here's the .STL done vertically the way I think we print this.....if my memory is right.....with supports to the bed.

I just noticed you answered my email......I was remembering 60% overhang not 85%, so glad I asked. I was going to print another one for me so had just recently made the vertical .stl, which was timely, because a new APP owner was experiencing what we did with the stock part, 3 years a go. And I told them about your improvement over my paperclip fix. ;)

link to that thread if you're curious: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-app-not-properly-positioning-cases.923396/

Your memory serves you correct. 60 degrees is in the manual I believe. I simplify it to slightly less than 90 degrees these days. You just want to support the right angles off the build plate, so 60-89 degrees is fine.

Thanks for the link. I will take a peak.

[GWS]

It took more effort than I had in mind to print that slider. Can you say spaghetti?;) My slicer never has performed well depending on supports to keep a small skinny part upright and last night was no exception......sooooo......I modified the design slightly.....no supports and still got it to fit and work. Anyway here's some pictures of the result:

https://i.postimg.cc/bwZ8pS3J/IMG-4267.jpg
No spaghetti! No supports!

https://i.postimg.cc/9MYHJdFx/IMG-4271.jpg
Temperature was 215C.....210C would've probably produced a cleaner print with less stringing....oh well...

https://i.postimg.cc/7L7kT8vr/IMG-4272.jpg
The mod was just to extend the end of the slide to the same length as the center hook-keeper and bevel things to reduce midair flats, so as to provide more base for the part on the bed yet not have to use support.

Notice the angled area that hangs out there upside down did not print pretty, but that wasn't important to how it works. Other slicers and printers may do that better.....

https://i.postimg.cc/XYtWJNzg/IMG-4273.jpg
Went together after cleanup just fine.

https://i.postimg.cc/85SVRKDJ/IMG-4274.jpg

In the event anyone wants the modded .stl

318425

[Gillie Dog]

I think we print this.....if my memory is right.....with supports to the bed.

Yes, printed horizontal, supports to bed, works perfectly with Cura 5.2.2 slicer with default support settings. Almost no clean up.

GD

[GWS]

Tyler said he prefers to print it vertically. Horizontally may work, but that lots of supports ..... how much time did it take to print? I'd have had no clean up if I'd paid attention to the temperature.....that was a factor of not paying attention...always a bad factor. ;)

But what I prefer is zero supports.....I hate the extra printing time supports require. Happy with how it came out. Think I'll print a couple more, since I have two sets of Lee slider parts, I think I'm going to order one more.....then I can have them set up for all three heights of case slider uppers.

Update: Printed another at the lower temp. No difference. Needed the Xacto knife again.:) No biggie....a minute or two with it...still happy enough with the parts......no more spaghetti, no supports.

I printed at .12 layer height....so it takes longer than printing at .2, but the part is real smooth....took 1 hour 50 minutes.

[Gillie Dog]

Horizontally may work, but that lots of supports ..... how much time did it take to print?

I printed at .12 layer height....so it takes longer than printing at .2, but the part is real smooth....took 1 hour 50 minutes.

So horizontal with supports, 1 hour 30 minutes, vertical with support, 1 hour 46 minutes at .12 layer and 50 mm print speed.

I was concerned about tipping over vertical even with the support but it worked fine. Vertical was a nicer print in the areas where horizontal print was held up by the supports.

So both printed fine/usable.

318573318574318575318576

GD

[GWS]

Interesting....now we know....I have no idea what my print speed was set at....now you got me curious. Haven't changed that from the original template. On my first vertical using the unmodded design that fell over, I admit to trying a different support design from what I've used before.....will cross that one off....;) But I haven't had a good experience building on supports....ever .... on a standing up model.

[GWS]

A question about cura.....anyone use TH3D Ezabl bed leveler with Cura? If so, care to share the starting GCode commands that work? Never been able to get Cura to work with my printer using Ezabl......and for me, the Ezabl bed leveler is way more important than Cura, since IdeaMaker works awesome with it.

[MSUICEMAN]

I would think the same commands as a CRTouch would work. I can't think of why one probe wouldn't have the same startup (though you may have different preferences regarding meshes, and depending on firmware there may be some implications if you aren't on UBL yet).



Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Gillie Dog]

A question about cura.....anyone use TH3D Ezabl bed leveler with Cura? If so, care to share the starting GCode commands that work? Never been able to get Cura to work with my printer using Ezabl......and Ezabl is way more important than Cura, since IdeaMaker works awesome with it.

Sent you PM on other board with files attached.

I ran TH3D downloaded start and end code at beginning, worked just fine, then not being able to leave well enough alone I added some little extras which in the end only one of them is needed/wanted.

This is in CURA 5.2.2, I have yet to download and test new version(s) of CURA. But should work fine with all versions. I changed to 5 point (25points) sensing in autobed level in firmware but changed back to 3 point (9points) because made no difference.

I have gone to solid bed mounts, used .1, .2 and .3mm shims to get it "dead" level. Using autobed level it returns .048mm maximum difference between the 9 points. I have no clue if it helps or makes difference or not, just my OCD again.

GD

PS: I have watched the Z motors adjust as the print head moves around, like doing a 300mm collator plate outside circle. So autobed level is doing something. Have not watched it since adding shims to solid mounts.

[MSUICEMAN]

I have an ezabl pro sitting around that I need to try again. Was getting repeatability issues, but I like the concept.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[GWS]

I have an ezabl pro sitting around that I need to try again. Was getting repeatability issues, but I like the concept.
.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Repeatability issues I've never seen......but then I did use a level first on my printer to get it close.....and I had to raise one side of the Z which made the horizontal Z bar out of square with the Creality Frame then relevel.....the first day I put it together....

I wouldn't be without my Ezabl Pro...IMO auto-bedleveling is a must.

[MSUICEMAN]

Yeah, I was new to ABL systems and somewhat new to 3d printing at the time I tried it. It may have been something I did. If I get another printer, I will try it. Though my next printer will likely have another ABL system stock.

One thing I didn't care for that I remember is the adjustment screw, when installing per instruction offset, was fairly inaccessible as to where it located in the mount. I grew impatient and just went back to manually leveling at the time.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !

I have been playing with the APP_Base_Slide but face a challenge with too much friction when the slide is assembled.
Just running the APP_Base_Slide solo is smooth. When assembling the keel shaped part (red arrow) seems to be pushing the green marked plastic too hard against the mount. Anyone else experiencing the same challenge ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger
318926

[M500]

Roger, where did you find the APP parts in black? I am used to seeing them in red. Thanks

[MSUICEMAN]

These are the aftermarket APP slides you print yourself. In whatever color filament you have.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[M500]

These are the aftermarket APP slides you print yourself

I am referring to the portion with the jaws and hook. Where do I find stl's for those? I am familiar with TylerR's base. Thanks

[GWS]

Dear Team !

I have been playing with the APP_Base_Slide but face a challenge with too much friction when the slide is assembled.
Just running the APP_Base_Slide solo is smooth. When assembling the keel shaped part (red arrow) seems to be pushing the green marked plastic too hard against the mount. Anyone else experiencing the same challenge ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger
318926

I've not had that issue. Only things that come to mind is printer calibration, print head size, or layer height.

I print small parts at .12 mm layer height to make sure small parts fit each other.....so far that works for me, only print heads I use are .4mm. Hopefully master TylerR has more to add that might help.

[MSUICEMAN]

I am referring to the portion with the jaws and hook. Where do I find stl's for those? I am familiar with TylerR's base. ThanksI've seen some black slides and jaws in the wild on youtube. Assuming it's a mixed bag from Lee.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Dear Team !

I have been playing with the APP_Base_Slide but face a challenge with too much friction when the slide is assembled.
Just running the APP_Base_Slide solo is smooth. When assembling the keel shaped part (red arrow) seems to be pushing the green marked plastic too hard against the mount. Anyone else experiencing the same challenge ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger
318926

I can shed some light. I added that tab because the rails on the APP are not a consistent width. The tab allows you to dial in the amount of resistance. If it is too tight simply take a small flat file and remove a little material until you get the ideal resistance on the rail. Hope that helps.

[rogerandre]

Spot on TylerR. Just my thought as well but wanted to ask before I went wild with a file.
Huge thanks and keep up the fantastic work !

[eatapeach]

Howdy all. I'm new to this project, as in first post, but have lurked, read, and printed parts of it (feed dies) in the past to use until I had time, health, and resources to get started on the whole project. Tonight I was reading through the manual and looking over parts for planning to get started on the main bodies over the next couple days. I have a question regarding the motors that I couldn't find answers to while searching. I'm sure I must have just missed it though.

1- of the 2 motors linked in the manual, other than the price difference, is there one that is regarded as being the better option function wise?
2- are the other 2 motor/body options shown in the parts generator discontinued, or were the 2 currently linked motors just found to be better options?

TIA for any help. I'm excited to finally get started on this and join in on the fun!

[GWS]

Motors..... ETZGMP38 vs. JGY370 vs. FC550 vs. M634JS......

Probably as good a time as any to expound on this subject and ask users what they've tried, what works, what doesn't and maybe add the info to the downloads, for eatapeach's and everyone else's benefit who comes along in the future.

My experience: I've only used two, both work fine for what they were used on....

1. My first of 4 collators was AmmoMikes teeny tiny one back in the beginning....and I used the also teeny tiny motor JGY370. Works fine, and in that early non-clutch collator model, it wasn't so powerful that it broke things when something hung up.....it just stopped and hummed, and I quick as possible, turned off the power to keep it from burning out.

2-4. I printed 2 of TylerR's normal sized collators and one 300 size for larger rifle cases, and for each used the most expensive from Grainger motor ETZGMP38. It is powerful enough to break plates when things hang up, and that's why the clutched plates were developed. If you use them you no longer have to worry about too powerful.....just not powerful enough. I love the big motors, personally....and never had a reason to try the other two models.

The other two models are what people have been able to find in their own geographic areas....across the pond in Europe, for example.....or maybe what they found locally. Have no experience with those. Hopefully some of those users and TylerR will chime in.....

One thing I learned using Proximity Switches to auto turn the motors on and off, was from TylerR......and it does make a big difference.
That would be the electronic relay, used in the electrical boxes, to make the motors and the Prox switches work better together.

I revamped the electronics in all my e. boxes to includes one....and not sorry I did....trouble free.

[Gillie Dog]

Probably as good a time as any to expound on this subject and ask users what they've tried, what works, what doesn't and maybe add the info to the downloads, for eatapeach's and everyone else's benefit who comes along in the future.

My experience, though limited to the last year, with pistol bullets 110 grain to 240 grain in a standard collator is that the M634JS 10 rpm motors work just fine. I have clutches in all collator plates and never have had a problem, do not remember needing for a clutch to slip, though.

I use the same motor, 634JS, in a 300mm collator for pistol brass and it is also working just fine.

To date have not needed a higher rpm motor.

Purchasing from Amazon was inexpensive (cheap) and easy. Still available today.

GD

[eatapeach]

Motors..... ETZGMP38 vs. JGY370 vs. FC550 vs. M634JS......

Probably as good a time as any to expound on this subject and ask users what they've tried, what works, what doesn't and maybe add the info to the downloads, for eatapeach's and everyone else's benefit who comes along in the future.

My experience: I've only used two, both work fine for what they were used on....

1. My first of 4 collators was AmmoMikes teeny tiny one back in the beginning....and I used the also teeny tiny motor JGY370. Works fine, and in that early non-clutch collator model, it wasn't so powerful that it broke things when something hung up.....it just stopped and hummed, and I quick as possible, turned off the power to keep it from burning out.

2-4. I printed 2 of TylerR's normal sized collators and one 300 size for larger rifle cases, and for each used the most expensive from Grainger motor ETZGMP38. It is powerful enough to break plates when things hang up, and that's why the clutched plates were developed. If you use them you no longer have to worry about too powerful.....just not powerful enough. I love the big motors, personally....and never had a reason to try the other two models.

The other two models are what people have been able to find in their own geographic areas....across the pond in Europe, for example.....or maybe what they found locally. Have no experience with those. Hopefully some of those users and TylerR will chime in.....

One thing I learned using Proximity Switches to auto turn the motors on and off, was from TylerR......and it does make a big difference.
That would be the electronic relay, used in the electrical boxes, to make the motors and the Prox switches work better together.

I revamped the electronics in all my e. boxes to includes one....and not sorry I did....trouble free.

Thank you for the thorough response, GWS.
Yeah, relays are always a good add when switching is used with electronics. I have a deep background in building amps, switches, and processors in high end custom home automation systems, and updating classic car wiring for modern times and parts. So I'm well versed in the importance of relays.

As far as power (or torque) is concerned with each motor, if I'm planning to build the normal size collators for mostly .380, 9 and 10mm, plus .223/5.56. Is there a need for the little added power of the bigger motor for the case collator, or would the cheaper Amazon one work for cases? I can definitely see the bigger one being needed for the bullet collator.

[eatapeach]

My experience, though limited to the last year, with pistol bullets 110 grain to 240 grain in a standard collator is that the M634JS 10 rpm motors work just fine. I have clutches in all collator plates and never have had a problem, do not remember needing for a clutch to slip, though.

I use the same motor, 634JS, in a 300mm collator for pistol brass and it is also working just fine.

To date have not needed a higher rpm motor.

Purchasing from Amazon was inexpensive (cheap) and easy. Still available today.

GD

Thank you, GD. That's good to know. I'll mostly use them for .380, 9 and 10mm, plus .223/5.56 since I load and shot those the most. My other calibers are precision loads, which I don't need to load large quantities of. I was thinking about using the M634JS for the case collator, and the more powerful one from Grainger for the bullet collator because I could see it potentially needing the extra torque.

[GWS]

Thank you for the thorough response, GWS.
Yeah, relays are always a good add when switching is used with electronics. I have a deep background in building amps, switches, and processors in high end custom home automation systems, and updating classic car wiring for modern times and parts. So I'm well versed in the importance of relays.

As far as power (or torque) is concerned with each motor, if I'm planning to build the normal size collators for mostly .380, 9 and 10mm, plus .223/5.56. Is there a need for the little added power of the bigger motor for the case collator, or would the cheaper Amazon one work for cases? I can definitely see the bigger one being needed for the bullet collator.

Really TylerR and others are more suited to answer, because they have tried the other motors. I'd think if the motor is powerful enough to turn a heavily loaded plate full of bullets.....and has a clutch that turns instead, when a bullet gets jambed preventing normal turning, then it should work fine. I'd be tempted to try the one Gillie Dog uses if I decide to print a 5th collator. It is cheap enough to make it vvvery tempting.

Bigger collators turning rifle case plates fully loaded are lighter....again....tempted. With say .45 ACP bullets, the other option is to not collate a full load at a time. Pour a cupful, fill up the tubes, load 30, add another cupful.....you don't have to fill the thing with 50 lbs of bullets......nor would I even with the big motor. You're not out a whole lot printing a base for the cheaper motor.....and even if you don't prefer it for heavy bullets, there's always pistol case plates you can print or lighter bullets....so you're not out anything.....IOW's, worst case, print two bases......I have 4 and use and love every one even the tiny first one.;)

The video below shows how the clutch and the "anti-soldier" part works with tall rifle: You see the clutch removes any worries about the motor...


https://youtu.be/-hDs9eLVxzw

[TylerR]

Thank you for the thorough response, GWS.
Yeah, relays are always a good add when switching is used with electronics. I have a deep background in building amps, switches, and processors in high end custom home automation systems, and updating classic car wiring for modern times and parts. So I'm well versed in the importance of relays.

As far as power (or torque) is concerned with each motor, if I'm planning to build the normal size collators for mostly .380, 9 and 10mm, plus .223/5.56. Is there a need for the little added power of the bigger motor for the case collator, or would the cheaper Amazon one work for cases? I can definitely see the bigger one being needed for the bullet collator.

634JS motor is the answer you seek. Plenty of torque. I have used it to turn 1000 9mm bullets in the 300mm feeder. No issues.

[GWS]

634JS motor is the answer you seek. Plenty of torque. I have used it to turn 1000 9mm bullets in the 300mm feeder. No issues.

There you go. That's good enough for me. We shoulda made a base that could use the bigger three interchangeablly....;)

I know....that's a lot of holes.....

[eatapeach]

Really TylerR and others are more suited to answer, because they have tried the other motors. I'd think if the motor is powerful enough to turn a heavily loaded plate full of bullets.....and has a clutch that turns instead, when a bullet gets jambed preventing normal turning, then it should work fine. I'd be tempted to try the one Gillie Dog uses if I decide to print a 5th collator. It is cheap enough to make it vvvery tempting.

Bigger collators turning rifle case plates fully loaded are lighter....again....tempted. With say .45 ACP bullets, the other option is to not collate a full load at a time. Pour a cupful, fill up the tubes, load 30, add another cupful.....you don't have to fill the thing with 50 lbs of bullets......nor would I even with the big motor. You're not out a whole lot printing a base for the cheaper motor.....and even if you don't prefer it for heavy bullets, there's always pistol case plates you can print or lighter bullets....so you're not out anything.....IOW's, worst case, print two bases......I have 4 and use and love every one even the tiny first one.;)

The video below shows how the clutch and the "anti-soldier" part works with tall rifle: You see the clutch removes any worries about the motor...


https://youtu.be/-hDs9eLVxzw

Dang, now that's pretty slick!

[eatapeach]

634JS motor is the answer you seek. Plenty of torque. I have used it to turn 1000 9mm bullets in the 300mm feeder. No issues.

Yeah, that's definitely enough for me. I won't say never, but at the moment I don't envision ever running that many at once. Thank you for response, Tyler, and all the work/time you all have put into this.

[eatapeach]

Wow, talk about depressing. Everything was going great, printing beautifully, until....
Print was 30hrs in and it was go so well it was boring. I had to go to a Dr appt and didn't bother putting the enclosure on because it has been going so well. When I returned home I was hit with a very cold breeze when I opened the door. House was 59°! It was 74° when I left. Apparently the thermostat glitched while I was away and kept the A/C running non-stop! I rushed in to check the print and my heart sank. It caused 2 big delamination areas, a whole bunch of smaller ones, and some shifted layers in last 1.5". Ugh! Not sure if it's salvageable or not yet. Too depressed to look at it right now.

[GWS]

We've all wasted prints, time, & PLA. Spaghetti isn't so fun either...... But, I'm afraid it's all part of the learning process. Lesson learned....stable room temps are important, bed temp and nozzle temp is extremely important.....but we all live in different locations....some of use print in cold basements....hot garages, etc etc. And the bed material is extremely important.

In my printing room I use 65C bed, and 215C nozzle.....after less than stellar trials and errors. Tyler prints in a kool basement and his temps are different from mine. Be patient....you'll get there. 74 to 59 room delta is a learning experience for sure. So you got another thermostat, I assume? and you fixed that problem? Room temp in my printing room fluctuates between 65 to 72 in 24 hours and it does okay. I think my problems ceased completely only when I replaced the Creality Glass bed with a Polypropylene bed TylerR suggested.

[MSUICEMAN]

Polypropylene? Interesting. I print on PEI coated spring steel or glass. The glass carborundum bed was ok for a while but seemed to wear out as eventually I'd have a lot of adhesion issues.

I print in my basement which is about 65 in the summer and 60 in the winter. For PLA I print at 60C bed, 209 Nozzle. But all that depends on machine, speed, hot end type, etc. I find a lot of issues come with drafts, as it leads to uneven cooling. If need be, you can use a wind block if it's from a known source or a cheap to free enclosure.

PEI impresses me, but I'm always willing to try the next best thing if it's affordable. I may try those garolite boards. I like the idea of a lightweight solution, as I'm going to go klipper on one of my printers, so anything to reduce vibrations at high speeds would be a good thing.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[eatapeach]

We've all wasted prints, time, & PLA. Spaghetti isn't so fun either...... But, I'm afraid it's all part of the learning process. Lesson learned....stable room temps are important, bed temp and nozzle temp is extremely important.....but we all live in different locations....some of use print in cold basements....hot garages, etc etc. And the bed material is extremely important.

In my printing room I use 65C bed, and 215C nozzle.....after less than stellar trials and errors. Tyler prints in a kool basement and his temps are different from mine. Be patient....you'll get there. 74 to 59 room delta is a learning experience for sure. So you got another thermostat, I assume? and you fixed that problem? Room temp in my printing room fluctuates between 65 to 72 in 24 hours and it does okay. I think my problems ceased completely only when I replaced the Creality Glass bed with a Polypropylene bed TylerR suggested.

Oh I know. Not my first ruined print, and won't be my last, but the ruined long prints suck! Especially when they're in last couple hours of print time.

I switched to polypropylene last year and it's been great. It's stiff enough to counter any small low or warped areas and makes leveling easier. Plus, the prints just stick very well and come off easily once the bed is cooled. I typically use 65° bed and 215° nozzle temps will pla+ as well, but this red color likes a 220° nozzle temp best. Just that one color. Everything else I've tried printed great at 215°.

And yes, definitely replaced the thermostat immediately! But I'll also not be lazy again about putting the enclosure on for longer prints just to be safe.

[GWS]

Oh I know. Not my first ruined print, and won't be my last, but the ruined long prints suck! Especially when they're in last couple hours of print time.

I switched to polypropylene last year and it's been great. It's stiff enough to counter any small low or warped areas and makes leveling easier. Plus, the prints just stick very well and come off easily once the bed is cooled. I typically use 65° bed and 215° nozzle temps will pla+ as well, but this red color likes a 220° nozzle temp best. Just that one color. Everything else I've tried printed great at 215°.

And yes, definitely replaced the thermostat immediately! But I'll also not be lazy again about putting the enclosure on for longer prints just to be safe.

Then my last post wasting all the bandwidth with pictures....was a waste....I probably should delete that....you're way a head of me, and Msuiceman is probably through looking at it.......sometimes I post too much....

Funny......I don't even have an enclosure.....just two doors in the wife's sewing room to keep closed. ;)....and I've run 4 bases for days without even doing that......guess I've been lucky so far.....just spaghetti when the problem described below crops up once in a while.

Yes big fails are hell so I try to be home when I print all but the big bases that take days. I do still have problems with Creality's hot end sometimes, when melted plastic blobs between the tubing and the hot end cause PLA feed problems....even in spite of my doing my best to prevent voids. Last night I ordered TH3D's bi-metal heat-break to replace the stock one, and thus move the tubing above the hot end.... They say that totally stops that intermittent problem once and for all. So looking forward to the end of a not constant but still a reoccurring and stupid, annoying problem.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
What is the optimal height on the axle/hex coupler ? Seems like mine is a little to high ?! And Yes I will grind the set screw :-)
319512319513

[Sig]

Dear Team !
What is the optimal height on the axle/hex coupler ? Seems like mine is a little to high ?! And Yes I will grind the set screw :-)

I believe mine are bottomed out on the shaft. My plates ride on on the hopper, they don't float suspended on the motor shaft. I'd say as long as your hex portion of the coupler is fully engaged in the plate, you're GTG.

[TylerR]

I believe mine are bottomed out on the shaft. My plates ride on on the hopper, they don't float suspended on the motor shaft. I'd say as long as your hex portion of the coupler is fully engaged in the plate, you're GTG.

Yes, the hex should be fully seated on the motor shaft.

[rogerandre]

Yes, the hex should be fully seated on the motor shaft.

Thanks. Any recommendations/experiences from cutting the motor shaft ? Angle grinder overkill ?

[TylerR]

Thanks. Any recommendations/experiences from cutting the motor shaft ? Angle grinder overkill ?

Why do you want to cut the motor shaft?

[rogerandre]

Why do you want to cut the motor shaft?

Motor shaft is too long. 1". So the hex nut comes up over the clutch. Any idea about the optimal length of the motor shaft ?319520319521

[TylerR]

Motor shaft is too long. 1". So the hex nut comes up over the clutch. Any idea about the optimal length of the motor shaft ?319520319521

Which motor is that? The linked 634JS motor shaft is 15mm or roughly 5/8" so that would be the correct length. If I was cutting one down I would use a hacksaw to minimize heat.

[rogerandre]

Which motor is that? The linked 634JS motor shaft is 15mm or roughly 5/8" so that would be the correct length. If I was cutting one down I would use a hacksaw to minimize heat.

This one in the link. I need to be more diligent on motor shaft length as I proceed. Thanks for the advice on the hack saw.

https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0C5WVB1FH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Once again thanks !

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
What is the recommended optimal combination of collator plate and slide plate for 9 mm brass (bottom down) ?
Collator Plate: Small Pistol Brass and Slide Plate: Brass ?

[TylerR]

Dear Team !
What is the recommended optimal combination of collator plate and slide plate for 9 mm brass (bottom down) ?
Collator Plate: Small Pistol Brass and Slide Plate: Brass ?

There is only one slide plate for brass.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/4.%20Slide%20Plates/Brass_Slide_Plate.stl

[rogerandre]

There is only one slide plate for brass.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/4.%20Slide%20Plates/Brass_Slide_Plate.stl

Thanks !

[GWS]

IMO, cutting the shaft would be my last resort. Why not print the clutch part taller so it covers the top of the hex at the existing height?
As you can see, I chose to make the parts that cover the hex deep, so that it works for both thin and thick plates. Having it stick up higher in the center sure doesn't effect anything detrimentally. TylerR's handle parts would work just as well.....love his twist lock mechanism.

https://i.postimg.cc/Hn12w0QX/IMG-4005.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/W4k9ShzF/IMG-3961.jpg

The tall hex center clutch in the back is 20mm high instead of the usual 17mm. TylerR has the 20mm high one too, just not in the latest download.....I also thickened the ring to match. I noticed TylerR also has a thicker (hollow inside) handle available too....but not sure where it's intended to be used. My ring and handle obviously doesn't have the nifty twist lock, but I might like to steal that feature but only if he's not against it, otherwise I won't tread there.... ;)

If that motor shaft is hardened, you won't be cutting it with a hack saw....you can hope it's not...;)

[rogerandre]

IMO, cutting the shaft would be my last resort. Why not print the clutch part taller so it covers the top of the hex at the existing height?
As you can see, I chose to make the parts that cover the hex deep, so that it works for both thin and thick plates. Having it stick up higher in the center sure doesn't effect anything detrimentally. TylerR's handle parts would work just as well.....love his twist lock mechanism.

https://i.postimg.cc/Hn12w0QX/IMG-4005.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/W4k9ShzF/IMG-3961.jpg

The tall hex center clutch in the back is 20mm high instead of the usual 17mm. TylerR has the 20mm high one too, just not in the latest download.....I also thickened the ring to match. I noticed TylerR also has a thicker (hollow inside) handle available too....but not sure where it's intended to be used. My ring and handle obviously doesn't have the nifty twist lock, but I might like to steal that feature but only if he's not against it, otherwise I won't tread there.... ;)

If that motor shaft is hardened, you won't be cutting it with a hack saw....you can hope it's not...;)

Huge thanks for the feedback. You got some very sexy prints there ! What brand/material are you using ? The metallic blue is stunning !

This is what I did: Took my Dremel, used a super thin cutting disk, took 5-6 min - took it easy so not to develop heat. No problem.
Looks like this now.
319556

[GWS]

Several companies make "Satin" colors. That blue is from Zyltec out of Texas.as is the green. Klutz me stepped on my .223 feed die so I had to print another set of parts Wednesday.....that's what I get for letting my mess get out of hand during my projects in the loading room.....building a short bench for "processing" being out of room on the main bench....so I found a two drawer horizontal file cabinet and just finish a wood top for it....to which I will mount my APP and Summit press to. That's when the part fell on the floor unnoticed and I stepped on it......not as stout as steel parts to be sure....

Anyway being partial to "Satins" I tried Overture's red Satin for the Wednesday print.....picture below:

https://i.postimg.cc/CLDgb0mS/IMG-4282.jpg

The older your eyes get the more you need color and brass bling.....? ;)

[rogerandre]

Several companies make "Satin" colors. That blue is from Zyltec out of Texas.as is the green. Klutz me stepped on my .223 feed die so I had to print another set of parts Wednesday.....that's what I get for letting my mess get out of hand during my projects in the loading room.....building a short bench for "processing" being out of room on the main bench....so I found a two drawer horizontal file cabinet and just finish a wood top for it....to which I will mount my APP and Summit press to. That's when the part fell on the floor unnoticed and I stepped on it......not as stout as steel parts to be sure....

Anyway being partial to "Satins" I tried Overture's red Satin for the Wednesday print.....picture below:

https://i.postimg.cc/CLDgb0mS/IMG-4282.jpg

The older your eyes get the more you need color and brass bling.....? ;)

Extraordinary cool. And +1 on the older eyes and bling :-D

[TylerR]

Huge thanks for the feedback. You got some very sexy prints there ! What brand/material are you using ? The metallic blue is stunning !



GWS has always had the prettiest prints. I still have yet to buy a satin filament but everytime he posts a pic I feel like I need to.

[GWS]

GWS has always had the prettiest prints. I still have yet to buy a satin filament but everytime he posts a pic I feel like I need to.

Don't bother....for you younger guys, it'd just hurt your good eyes..... However.......this last one is your favorite brand.....Overture.......;)

[TylerR]

Don't bother....for you younger guys, it'd just hurt your good eyes..... However.......this last one is your favorite brand.....Overture.......;)

I have switched to Polymaker for everything except the digital (dillon) blue. Overture had a spell where all the rolls were wound tangled. They may have that fixed now.

[GWS]

I have switched to Polymaker for everything except the digital (dillon) blue. Overture had a spell where all the rolls were wound tangled. They may have that fixed now.

Hmmm, I did have one roll of black PLA pro come that way......I unrolled about 50 feet and carefully rolled it back....not really a pleasant experience, mostly because the feed jammed and I had to start over. At least it was caught on a small print. I do like the tuffness of the Pro, Plus, or whatever Overture wants to call it this year.

Have not had a bad wind from Zyltec yet.....but I've only used Silks, Lipstick red (Lee match) and gunmetal grey from them. I've never tried to match RCBS green, tho RedlegEd did, and sent me a yard of it......but it's closer to the old green not the current....

My latest silk roll is from MatterHackers.com called MH BUILD "Red Silky". Finally a true red like Zyltec's lipstick red comes in Silk. The Overture silk red I just printed is a little bluer....sorta more on the rose side....think you can see that in the picture above. I haven't printed a bullet feeder die with the MH stuff yet.

[GWS]

There is only one slide plate for brass.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/4.%20Slide%20Plates/Brass_Slide_Plate.stl

That's true, but I did modify it into a one piece slide with a fully open drop hole for me....which I found works perfect for the pistol brass I reload....9mm, .40, .357, and .45. So....I don't have to worry about adjusting the drop hole....it stays fully open only.

319576

https://i.postimg.cc/tT720hTy/Pistol-Case-Slider-Open.jpg

[GWS]

My brain is about done I guess.....all these posts about "satin" filaments! ......SILK! not satin......don't know where my memory has gone.....anyone seen it hanging around looking lost? Eyes aren't the only thing that gets old.....

And this month I have been given a knew challenge......neuropathy in my feet....and I haven't heard about any good outcomes with that....so if numb feet that won't get better is all I get for my 74th birthday.....means I'm not especially looking forward to more. ;) You young guys enjoy it while you can. Youth is not something you ought to take for granted.....even 40 or 50 year-old youngsters. :)

[Gillie Dog]

That's true, but I did modify it into a one piece slide with a fully open drop hole for me....which I found works perfect for the pistol brass I reload....9mm, .40, .357, and .45. So....I don't have to worry about adjusting the drop hole....it stays fully open only.

I agree and I filled in the bump before the drop hole as not needed for pistol brass also.

GD

[MSUICEMAN]

My brain is about done I guess.....all these posts about "satin" filaments! ......SILK! not satin......don't know where my memory has gone.....anyone seen it hanging around looking lost? Eyes aren't the only thing that gets old.....

And this month I have been given a knew challenge......neuropathy in my feet....and I haven't heard about any good outcomes with that....so if numb feet that won't get better is all I get for my 74th birthday.....means I'm not especially looking forward to more. ;) You young guys enjoy it while you can. Youth is not something you ought to take for granted.....even 40 or 50 year-old youngsters. :)I knew what ya meant. I haven't messed with silk much, though I do have some. I hear the prints aren't as strong as normal PLA but who knows. Been looking for printing motivation lately. Probably will print the feeding does for the cartridges that I seat and crimp in the same station. Would be sweet to move that to station 4 with a feed die in 3 on my 550b.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[GWS]

I knew what ya meant. I haven't messed with silk much, though I do have some. I hear the prints aren't as strong as normal PLA but who knows. Been looking for printing motivation lately. Probably will print the feeding does for the cartridges that I seat and crimp in the same station. Would be sweet to move that to station 4 with a feed die in 3 on my 550b.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

So have you printed bullet feed dies yet? If not I have some suggestions if they come out like mine. I mean they print beautitful, but my Creality CR10 V2 still makes more stringing than I like for some things....one being small vertical ball bearing holes like you print for bullet feed dies. I found that an exacto knife is needed on mine to start the hole cleanup, then I use numbered drill bits 26 and 30 to finish the holes. The #30 to go horizontally clear through the die insert, then a #26 to just open the larger outside round, angle reamed just a tad toward but not through the smaller diameter inner wall. That allows the ball bearing to go in the holes only to flush with the outside....and hold the bullets inside until they reach the designed recess that allows the bearings to release and drop the bullets.

Then the final insurance ...... run a drill bit at or just under the caliber diameter up and down through the center of the die a few times, to clean anything that might slow down the bullets dropping.

Notice I never mentioned a drill......use your hands to twist them, or you will over do and ruin it.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !

Correctly understood that for optimal brass feeding the collator main body should be angled so that the brass hole adapter have a zero vertical angle ?

Best Regards
///Roger

[Gillie Dog]

Dear Team !

Correctly understood that for optimal brass feeding the collator main body should be angled so that the brass hole adapter have a zero vertical angle ?

Best Regards
///Roger

For pistol, I have found it depends on the case, some need more tilt, positive from vertical of brass hole adapter, and some will run with less tilt than vertical. Once determined how much tilt of the collator is needed I just add it to my set up list.

That said, I do not run any cases with brass hole adapter less than vertical but some with more tilt. I have seen some other collators tilted very steeply.

Easy cases like 9mm can run well with brass hole adapter vertical tilt. 30 Carbine I run with about 10 degrees more tilt to get cases to slide down the collator plate and not bunch up around the cases in the hole ready to drop. More tilt does not hurt anything from what I have found running six different pistol cases. I do not run rifle cases in collator.

It is trial and error, what works is optimal. I ran about 1,000 cases of each size just dropping into a bucket to get best angle of tilt and speed of collator plate set to give best results.

GD

[JStuhlmiller]

That's true, but I did modify it into a one piece slide with a fully open drop hole for me....which I found works perfect for the pistol brass I reload....9mm, .40, .357, and .45. So....I don't have to worry about adjusting the drop hole....it stays fully open only.

319576

https://i.postimg.cc/tT720hTy/Pistol-Case-Slider-Open.jpg

Agreed GWS. Youth is wasted on the young. When I was young I had no money and now im old and cant do the things I have the money to do.