Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

Guess we will know when I print one....;)

[Master Sergeant]

The amount of work y'all have done is impressive. Wow. Been reading and skimming till I've worn callouses on my eye balls. How does the clutch attach to the motor shaft?

[TylerR]

Guess we will know when I print one....;)

Sweet! Then you can add your results to the bullet compatibility chart.

[GWS]

The amount of work y'all have done is impressive. Wow. Been reading and skimming till I've worn callouses on my eye balls. How does the clutch attach to the motor shaft?

Either by drilling a hole in the shaft and inserting a pin, or adding a hex adapter and securing it with a set screw.

TylerR and others prefer the pin. They can tell you more. As for the hex the link ... below is where I got mine for the 8mm shaft.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K7FKWJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They can also be bought for motors with smaller shafts.

[Master Sergeant]

Thanks, GWS.

[TylerR]

Either by drilling a hole in the shaft and inserting a pin, or adding a hex adapter and securing it with a set screw.

TylerR and others prefer the pin. They can tell you more. As for the hex the link ... below is where I got mine for the 8mm shaft.


Now that we have cool slip clutches that can be easily swapped into any collator plate, and the hex won't get rounded out on a jam, I am all for hex.

[TylerR]

Printing out a new small pistol bullet plate now. It has a few hours left, but then I will get my final confirmation on the new no support design. I have already run a bunch of partial tests but it's good to do a whole plate to be sure.

[kc10kevin]

Printing out a new small pistol bullet plate now. It has a few hours left, but then I will get my final confirmation on the new no support design. I have already run a bunch of partial tests but it's good to do a whole plate to be sure.

Sweet!! If this design is any indication of the other one, it should be awesome. Using the "old" clutch plate design and it works wonderfully!

You're right about the hex now. Definitely no chance of stripping out the hole with the clutch plate.

[TylerR]

Sweet!! If this design is any indication of the other one, it should be awesome. Using the "old" clutch plate design and it works wonderfully!

You're right about the hex now. Definitely no chance of stripping out the hole with the clutch plate.

It's basically the same exact thing, just with a beveled edge. I still think it's funny I preached about no supports when designing to GWS early on, and then it was his idea to re-design it without supports. That's why I love this place. Friends who keep me on my toes.

[TylerR]

So my friend GWS posted the question about longevity on this slip clutch design, with heat buildup and breaking down over time. I actually just ran a second test with the new design where I turned the motor on high and left it running for 10 minutes in a "jammed" state. I am happy to report there was absolutely no heat issues. I would say that's a pretty good torture test, and shows there should be no issues over many hundreds of jams, if not thousands. And if you are having that many jams you have other issues to work out.

I should have the new version posted in a couple hours.

[GWS]

So if I have the latest files: #11 bullet plate and the clutch, this is what I'm going to start printing tonight! (screen shot playing with my Idea Maker slicer.)

https://i.postimg.cc/1zFkyC5g/Screenshot-2021-02-01-182938-PNG.jpg

Now I see why the cap is needed......the clutch is going to be recessed a lot with that thick plate!! We need something to grasp the plate from the center.......thinking...what about bolting from the bottom and use splice nuts on top and a bar screwed on between them????

This is TylerR>:groner: At least you don't have to print another version......:)

[TylerR]

Now I see why the cap is needed......the clutch is going to be recessed a lot with that thick plate!! We need something to grasp the plate from the center.......thinking...what about bolting from the bottom and use splice nuts on top and a bar screwed on between them????

This is TylerR>:groner:

Yes, one major difference between my slip clutch and Dillon's is all their plates are the same height, and it only handles brass. We have plates anywhere from 8-24mm.

I am not sure I understand your suggestion, but any solution will not be a change to the actual slip clutch itself. :) it would most likely have to be a separate part. Or you can just remove the slide plate and work the collator plate off like I do now. After time they loosen up and its not that big of a deal.

[GWS]

Just think inserting the 2 bolts from the bottom....thru the top piece and tightening them with your lock nut on top.....but the bolt is longer so you can add a coupler nut, a handle between them then short bolts into the top of the coupler nuts to tie nuts and handle together.... Clear as swamp mud....right? ;)

And no you don't have to change anything.....people can make their own handles.....or do without.....but they'll be jealous of mine.:)

[TylerR]

Just think inserting the 2 bolts from the bottom....thru the top piece and tightening them with your lock nut on top.....but the bolt is longer so you can add a coupler nut, a handle between them then short bolts into the top of the coupler nuts to tie nuts and handle together.... Clear as swamp mud....right? ;)

And no you don't have to change anything.....people can make their own handles.....or do without.....but they'll be jealous of mine.:)

Haha, I love it!

So latest version is officially published, along with a new manual to match (thanks o416). As always I am open to any feedback.
I also am posting a video of the "torture test". It's 10 minutes long and boring but you will get the gist.


https://youtu.be/jEjI4JVZrZo

[Anuccite]

Haha, I love it!

So latest version is officially published, along with a new manual to match (thanks o416). As always I am open to any feedback.
I also am posting a video of the "torture test". It's 10 minutes long and boring but you will get the gist.



TylerR..... I must say.... Of all the modifications you have made to this project... The Clutch setup, is by far "the game changer" over the last 2 years, I have printed out at least 3 9mm plates because of jams and on my original setup I had the MBF motor.... the last plate I created at 100% infill (before I knew about the Partial trick)

I think a while back someone suggested "clutch plate" and you rolled with it!

Bravo!

[stanford]

I am just amazed at how Tyler is able to work these things out so fast especially when having a family. This also brings back to mind when I first moved from the big apple down to Texas back in 91, my good friend encouraged me to go back to school and finish up my EE degree. Hesitantly I agreed, but there was this one professor that I will never forget. This guy was so hard core into electronics I just couldn't believe it. One day he was telling us about his ham radio endeavor's, he said its his hobby and he mostly stays up and night to communicate with people around the world.

I asked him what did his wife think about this? He said what else is there left to do at night when you've been married for 40 years.

Is this you Tyler?

[witz]

Do you have a link to where the partial trick is? I printed a number of the old style and want to try it when I print try the clutch - although its probably not needed anymore.

[TylerR]

TylerR..... I must say.... Of all the modifications you have made to this project... The Clutch setup, is by far "the game changer" over the last 2 years, I have printed out at least 3 9mm plates because of jams and on my original setup I had the MBF motor.... the last plate I created at 100% infill (before I knew about the Partial trick)

I think a while back someone suggested "clutch plate" and you rolled with it!

Bravo!

Thank you. I hope you guys like it. I would agree it is a leap forward.

[TylerR]

I am just amazed at how Tyler is able to work these things out so fast especially when having a family. This also brings back to mind when I first moved from the big apple down to Texas back in 91, my good friend encouraged me to go back to school and finish up my EE degree. Hesitantly I agreed, but there was this one professor that I will never forget. This guy was so hard core into electronics I just couldn't believe it. One day he was telling us about his ham radio endeavor's, he said its his hobby and he mostly stays up and night to communicate with people around the world.

I asked him what did his wife think about this? He said what else is there left to do at night when you've been married for 40 years.

Is this you Tyler?

Haha, good story.

And yes, that is kind of me, but I have only been married 20 years. But I do still have 5 kids under my roof. :)

[Anuccite]

Do you have a link to where the partial trick is? I printed a number of the old style and want to try it when I print try the clutch - although its probably not needed anymore.

Page 171

[o416]

Haha, I love it!

So latest version is officially published, along with a new manual to match (thanks o416). As always I am open to any feedback.
I also am posting a video of the "torture test". It's 10 minutes long and boring but you will get the gist.


https://youtu.be/jEjI4JVZrZo

Amazing work brother! Gonna upgrade my plates :)

[witz]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post5087528


Page 171

Thank you. Now i need to figure out how to make it round vs square like on the video.

[impala68]

so 3 things ...

#1 the clutch setup is good with the thin brass plates right? that was the gist i got

#2 was the size of the mount for the dillon case feeder reduced in a version update that i didn't catch?

#3 i dont rememmber who but, on the frankford arsenal FX-10 someone said the cost was gonna be 3k ... that is not the case its actually $700
https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/reloading-tools/presses-and-tools/reloading-presses/fx-10-progressive-reloading-press/1135898.html#start=1

not sure i could give up my blue coolaid it but i am looking for a 3rd press for random stuff ...

it's been a week since i checked the thread and i had to go through 20 pages and 3 version changes lol ... but the clutch looks awesome i can't wait to print them

like someone else said this clutch is a game changer

thanks for all your effort guys

[TylerR]

so 3 things ...

#1 the clutch setup is good with the thin brass plates right? that was the gist i got

#2 was the size of the mount for the dillon case feeder reduced in a version update that i didn't catch?


1. Yes, it is designed to work with any thickness plate
2. I have not made any changes to the Dillon mount since I first created it.

[Anuccite]

Tyler, What did you use for the infill on the clutch parts.... I went with 50%

Edit: I was just looking at the preview of my print.... I see you made the important section solid anyway.... Probably could have gotten away with 10%

[TylerR]

Tyler, What did you use for the infill on the clutch parts.... I went with 50%

For all my testing I was honestly just using 2 walls and 10% infill. But printing it for real I would go 4 walls and 50% probably. Should be plenty strong.

[Anuccite]

For all my testing I was honestly just using 2 walls and 10% infill. But printing it for real I would go 4 walls and 50% probably. Should be plenty strong.

I'm 2 Walls, 50% Will see how it comes out

[GWS]

Haha, I love it!

So latest version is officially published, along with a new manual to match (thanks o416). As always I am open to any feedback.
I also am posting a video of the "torture test". It's 10 minutes long and boring but you will get the gist.

Late last night I started playing the video.......I didn't make the 10 minutes.....my wife had to wake me up to go to bed......that's what I get trying to watch a video on my laptop in my recliner!;) Mine is about half way printed now.....like waiting for Santa!! :)

I don't know what's more exciting, trying out the clutch, or finally being able to collate .308!!!!!!

[TylerR]

Late last night I started playing the video.......I didn't make the 10 minutes.....my wife had to wake me up to go to bed......that's what I get trying to watch a video on my laptop in my recliner!;) Mine is about half way printed now.....like waiting for Santa!! :)

I don't know what's more exciting, trying out the clutch, or finally being able to collate .308!!!!!!

Yeah its really about the beginning and the end of the video. the 9 minutes in the middle are like watching paint dry.

You might like this video a little better. I think I have decided I like using the flipper instead of the small sweeper for the #11 plate. Still trying to decide.

https://youtu.be/j57Awcu695A

[djinnpb]

Sorry man but I can't tell you for sure. The #11 plate works great on the longer ones. My testing was done with 34.5mm 300bo. Will it work on a 28.3mm bullet? I think so. I just don't know.
The #11 plate works very well with short bullets too. I ran a bunch of nosler 125gr that are 27.52mm. I have a ton of 150 and 160gr too that I can try as well but so far anything thrown at #11 has worked great.


Guess we will know when I print one....;)

Can't go wrong with more plates! Just more filament :P Secretly TylerR owns filament stock :P

[TylerR]

The #11 plate works very well with short bullets too. I ran a bunch of nosler 125gr that are 27.52mm. I have a ton of 150 and 160gr too that I can try as well but so far anything thrown at #11 has worked great.
Can't go wrong with more plates! Just more filament :P Secretly TylerR owns filament stock :P

Would you do me a favor and test what you can and add them to the compatibility chart? The more we can get on there the better.

I should own stock in filament just with all that I have burned through.

[djinnpb]

Would you do me a favor and test what you can and add them to the compatibility chart? The more we can get on there the better.

I should own stock in filament just with all that I have burned through.

Sure! I did test the first version you made of the clutch #11 plate (with supports). works flawless and I'm not opposed to supports. I used my finger to catch it.. boy that was not the greatest idea (tightened the screws a bit tight)

I had previously added the 247gr noe and the Nosler 125gr. Will test all the 30 cal I have. also have 168 and 175 sierra matchkings.. I'll check those to and update.

[Anuccite]

Yeah its really about the beginning and the end of the video. the 9 minutes in the middle are like watching paint dry.

You might like this video a little better. I think I have decided I like using the flipper instead of the small sweeper for the #11 plate. Still trying to decide.


Are those the 34.5mm 300bo bullets? I just ordered some not sure their length... I will get one of those plates printed too

[noacess]

TylerR - Just a heads up your Contributors folder has two sets of files named similarly. One is just a "Copy of". Not sure if you meant to overwrite or not. I just wanted to make you aware to save some folks confusion.

Thanks!

[GWS]

Woke up this morning....and it was Christmas......again.;)

https://i.postimg.cc/Qx5W8BMt/IMG-3820.jpg

Almost my turn to test.....I didn't even think about printing that new slider ramp. The regular ramp and slide don't work? Don't remember why the new one...

Happy to be able to say, no more layer lifting at the lower temps. That's still confusing why higher temps work best for you.....is your basement near freezing?

[TylerR]

Are those the 34.5mm 300bo bullets? I just ordered some not sure their length... I will get one of those plates printed too

Yes they are. 230gr lee mold.

[TylerR]

TylerR - Just a heads up your Contributors folder has two sets of files named similarly. One is just a "Copy of". Not sure if you meant to overwrite or not. I just wanted to make you aware to save some folks confusion.

Thanks!

I just got rid of them, thanks.

[TylerR]

Woke up this morning....and it was Christmas......again.;)

Almost my turn to test.....I didn't even think about printing that new slider ramp. The regular ramp and slide don't work? Don't remember why the new one...

Happy to be able to say, no more layer lifting at the lower temps. That's still confusing why higher temps work best for you.....is your basement near freezing?

Christmas red even. I like it.

If you try using a regular rifle plate with a really long bullet, like my 34.4mm ones, they just never drop in the holes. The will just ride around on top indefinitely. The whole point of the #11 plate is that they slide in and down from the side of the hole. Try putting the longest bullet you have in a regular plate and you will see what I mean.

[GWS]

Christmas red even. I like it.

If you try using a regular rifle plate with a really long bullet, like my 34.4mm ones, they just never drop in the holes. The will just ride around on top indefinitely. The whole point of the #11 plate is that they slide in and down from the side of the hole. Try putting the longest bullet you have in a regular plate and you will see what I mean.

This #11 is the only .30 cal rifle plate I've printed.....hoping it'll work for more normal lengths too.:)

My question was about the sliders...."The regular ramp and slide don't work? Don't remember why the new one?"...the #11 slider is the only one that has it's own ramp. I don't remember why the second ramp. In your video it certainly works great with the long bullets, but I don't have any bullets of extraordinary lengths. So here I am.... my next learning experience......sliders. You have a million and I know that's to make it so you don't have to adjust them ad-nausium. But figuring out which one to use... for what ... is the mud clogging this old head.

So for these, I will need to print 2 different slides, most likely, or will the one with the ramp work for all of these? Experimentation, I know, but thinking you'd know better than me where to start?

https://i.postimg.cc/Dzp5Wy9N/IMG_3819.jpg

[TylerR]

This #11 is the only .30 cal rifle plate I've printed.....hoping it'll work for more normal lengths too.:)

My question was about the sliders...."The regular ramp and slide don't work? Don't remember why the new one?"...the #11 slider is the only one that has it's own ramp. I don't remember why the second ramp. In your video it certainly works great with the long bullets, but I don't have any bullets of extraordinary lengths. So here I am.... my next learning experience......sliders. You have a million and I know that's to make it so you don't have to adjust them ad-nausium. But figuring out which one to use... for what ... is the mud clogging this old head.

So for these, I will need to print 2 different slides, most likely, or will the one with the ramp work for all of these? Experimentation, I know, but thinking you'd know better than me where to start?


I have to admit, now you have me confused. You use the #11 collator plate with the #11 slide plate (either nose up or nose down). Both are very unique and look nothing like their "normal" counterparts. It's as simple as that.

[GWS]

Okay......got it. So depending on bullet length, slide it in or move it out.....right?

[TylerR]

Okay......got it. So depending on bullet length, slide it in or move it out.....right?

No. You would only slide it out if you needed a little more ridge exposed, say for a boat tail. The length of the bullet has nothing to do with it.

[thump_rrr]

Is there any way to get a bullet feed die set for 6.5 Creemoor?
I tried opening up the .308 bullet feeder die file in Fusion 360 and it’s giving me a size of 88mm not 8.8mm.
The software side of things makes me want to bang my head against the wall.

[TylerR]

Is there any way to get a bullet feed die set for 6.5 Creemoor?
I tried opening up the .308 bullet feeder die file in Fusion 360 and it’s giving me a size of 88mm not 8.8mm.
The software side of things makes me want to bang my head against the wall.

Yes, I could probably do that for you. I have to make a few tweaks anyway to them so I will see about creating one. You need to do some legwork for me though. Over the different weights for that caliber, what are the max and min length of the bullet. I will need that info to space the holes properly.

[stanford]

Woke up this morning....and it was Christmas......again.;)

Happy to be able to say, no more layer lifting at the lower temps. That's still confusing why higher temps work best for you.....is your basement near freezing?

Layer shifting also comes from printing too fast and the filament is not cooling down fast enough. My Ender3 Pro I print at 80mm/sec, on my cr-10s I can only go as fast as 50 or I will get much layer shifting and the table the printer is sitting on moves around like an earthquake. The smaller printers in my opinion seems to handle the faster speed easy because of size, the bigger print bed (forget it).

Running print jobs in Cura seems to take a lot longer than in simplify3d, its just a matter of getting used to the software differences.

[TylerR]

Yes, I could probably do that for you. I have to make a few tweaks anyway to them so I will see about creating one. You need to do some legwork for me though. Over the different weights for that caliber, what are the max and min length of the bullet. I will need that info to space the holes properly.

For the record I am going to try and create one die that will handle 6.5 and 7mm.

[djinnpb]

For the record I am going to try and create one die that will handle 6.5 and 7mm.

Overachiever :P Not all heroes wear capes!

[TylerR]

Overachiever :P Not all heroes wear capes!

I never said it would actually work. :bigsmyl2:

[RedlegEd]

Hi all,
My good friend TylerR was fussing at me for not posting more, so here's my latest build for my new (to me) XL650. I finished the plate last night using TylerR's updated OpenSCAD plate builder with the hex clutch drive option. You'll notice that my collator is the smaller AmmoMike83 version, yet I had absolutely no problem with setting up the plate and printing it. I used #6-32 x 3/4" screws and Nylock nuts to set the clutch. I'm still waiting on my prox switch to come in, then it's just a matter of putting it all together and using it.
Ed
276876 276877 276878

[TylerR]

Hi all,
My good friend TylerR was fussing at me for not posting more, so here's my latest build for my new (to me) XL650. I finished the plate last night using TylerR's updated OpenSCAD plate builder with the hex clutch drive option. You'll notice that my collator is the smaller AmmoMike83 version, yet I had absolutely no problem with setting up the plate and printing it. I used #6-32 x 3/4" screws and Nylock nuts to set the clutch. I'm still waiting on my prox switch to come in, then it's just a matter of putting it all together and using it.
Ed


Now isn't that puuuurdy?!!! I can't wait to see that bad boy in action.

[RedlegEd]

Now isn't that puuuurdy?!!! I can't wait to see that bad boy in action.

That makes two of us! :)
Ed

[Anuccite]

Hi all,
My good friend TylerR was fussing at me for not posting more, so here's my latest build for my new (to me) XL650. I finished the plate last night using TylerR's updated OpenSCAD plate builder with the hex clutch drive option. You'll notice that my collator is the smaller AmmoMike83 version, yet I had absolutely no problem with setting up the plate and printing it. I used #6-32 x 3/4" screws and Nylock nuts to set the clutch. I'm still waiting on my prox switch to come in, then it's just a matter of putting it all together and using it.
Ed

Very Nice.... I guess I could build a new plate for my original Ammo mike version.... But, what a little more filament!

[GWS]

That makes two of us! :)
Ed

Me three! Looks pretty darn good for a "BLUE" one! ;)

[RedlegEd]

Me three! Looks pretty darn good for a "BLUE" one! ;)

Fear not other good friend, a "GREEN" one (or two) is waiting in the wings!
Ed

[GWS]

TylerR: what diameter does your cap print at?.........hate to even go there, but being the divergent I am, I've decided to print me a cap a leeetle different. What's one more part.......this one will do double duty for me. I'll share it for your perusal advice tonight.....think you might like it.....we will see. I'm thinking to print it at 38.60mm O.D. where is slides in...? about right?.........and I need the center to center distance of the screws in the clutch. Yes I can measure but calipers don't guarantee the exact measurement you used.


Fear not other good friend, a "GREEN" one (or two) is waiting in the wings!
Ed

Oh, I'm sure....but I'm coming to the conclusion that the more colors the better......something in this dark world of ours this year needs to get brighter.....I think my next plate is going to be satin blue. My Gun Metal Silver or Black bases go with anything!

[GWS]

Very Nice.... I guess I could build a new plate for my original Ammo mike version.... But, what a little more filament!

No such thing as too many bases or sizes. Here that, Ed? Time to expand out and add to your collection.....the big base! I'm not sorry....will use all three.

Anuccite...do it! It's still a great collator.

[RedlegEd]

TylerR: what diameter does your cap print at?.........hate to even go there, but being the divergent I am, I've decided to print me a cap a leeetle different. What's one more part.......this one will do double duty for me. I'll share it for your perusal advice tonight.....think you might like it.....we will see. I'm thinking to print it at 38.60mm O.D. where is slides in...? about right?.........and I need the center to center distance of the screws in the clutch. Yes I can measure but calipers don't guarantee the exact measurement you used.



Oh, I'm sure....but I'm coming to the conclusion that the more colors the better......something in this dark world of ours this year needs to get brighter.....I think my next plate is going to be satin blue. My Gun Metal Silver or Black bases go with anything!

I'm not averse to colors, have a look....dark blue bowl, bronze and gun metal prox body, and green silk control box!
Ed
276898

[TylerR]

TylerR: what diameter does your cap print at?.........hate to even go there, but being the divergent I am, I've decided to print me a cap a leeetle different. What's one more part.......this one will do double duty for me. I'll share it for your perusal advice tonight.....think you might like it.....we will see. I'm thinking to print it at 38.60mm O.D. where is slides in...? about right?.........and I need the center to center distance of the screws in the clutch. Yes I can measure but calipers don't guarantee the exact measurement you used.


3D cad says cover is 38.9mm. Screw hole center to center is exactly 25mm.

I am guessing it will have a handle? Which I considered but then the cap would need to be better secured. And the cap is really only for the thicker plates.

So I am very interested to see what you come up with. Then I can steal it!!!

[wrinkles]

Just to make sure plates from this build fit the AmmoMike body without modifications?

[RedlegEd]

Just to make sure plates from this build fit the AmmoMike body without modifications?
Hi. No. The current build as enumerated in the excellent manual has been modified to a much larger bowl. The only thing that you can build for Ammo Mike's version is the collator plate using the OpenSCAD plate building tool found with the download. You must specifically set the parameters to fit the smaller collator.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi. No. The current build as enumerated in the excellent manual has been modified to a much larger bowl. The only thing that you can build for Ammo Mike's version is the collator plate using the OpenSCAD plate building tool found with the download. You must specifically set the parameters to fit the smaller collator.
Ed

Bingo. Main param you need to be aware of is plate diameter:

collator_plate_d=180.0; // DIAMETER (For original plate (AM) size use “147.5”)

I just posted up the latest plate generator so you don't have to download the whole package. I will do that from now on.

[wrinkles]

Thanks

[TylerR]

So who on here loads 6.5 / 7mm / .270? I don't load any, but I think I can make one die to fit all. I need someone (or multiple people) to do some testing. You will need two 3.5mm ball bearings as well. Assuming I can, the next question is what to label it. I'm thinking .270, cause this is America. Haha. Seriously though, I could go any way on the labeling. Hard to say what's more popular. I know 6.5 is all the rage these days but.....

[SuperMoose]

Started to print the main body and it looks like somewhere along the way there was an issue which screwed it up. It still is printing (has like two hours left) so I'll let it run.

Any ideas what may have caused this? Is it fixable (I can definitely reprint...just a little annoyed and want to avoid a screw up in the future. Still waiting on the press to ship so...I don't need it tomorrow or anything.).

ETA: It looked fine in Cura when I sliced it.

https://i.imgur.com/HpLi1nX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Qfdlzw2.jpg

[TylerR]

Started to print the main body and it looks like somewhere along the way there was an issue which screwed it up. It still is printing (has like two hours left) so I'll let it run.

Any ideas what may have caused this? Is it fixable (I can definitely reprint...just a little annoyed and want to avoid a screw up in the future. Still waiting on the press to ship so...I don't need it tomorrow or anything.).

ETA: It looked fine in Cura when I sliced it.



Wow that is some serious layer shift. It almost looks like the build plate itself moved mid print or something. I am not the 3d printer expert so I will let some of the pro's chime in. What printer are you using btw?

[GWS]

3D cad says cover is 38.9mm. Screw hole center to center is exactly 25mm.

I am guessing it will have a handle? Which I considered but then the cap would need to be better secured. And the cap is really only for the thicker plates.

So I am very interested to see what you come up with. Then I can steal it!!!

Okay, fine by me.....I'm easy.;)

So think Ed's hex print where the clutch is proud above the plate.....then think my hex print where the clutch is below the plate.


1. Buy a couple of square nuts. (since you have the square recess, that means they won't turn when you tighten the bolt on the bottom)

2. Buy flat head machine screws (since your bottom hole is chamfered) and get them long enough to go past the clutch....you'll see why in a minute.

3. So now tighten the bolts and square nuts until the plate is tight enough to resist light turning pressure. No wrench needed now.

4. Then mount the "Handle"

5. Then use your nyloc nuts on top....holds the handle on keeps the bolt from loosening. Done.

Oh, here's the handle: (just overhangs the hole, doesn't go into it because some plates like Ed's is lower, and others like the #11 is higher.)

https://i.postimg.cc/gcLYRk0R/Handle.png

Here's a picture showing why square nuts.....

https://i.postimg.cc/XYL33r2M/IMG-3822.jpg

Now you can keep the plate and the clutch as one easy piece to drop in and use. So you have to print a clutch for every plate.....big deal. Ok if it is a big deal then don't store them together.....still works the same....just less handy. (As my screws are too short...got to get to Ace tomorrow to remedy that.)

[thump_rrr]

Yes, I could probably do that for you. I have to make a few tweaks anyway to them so I will see about creating one. You need to do some legwork for me though. Over the different weights for that caliber, what are the max and min length of the bullet. I will need that info to space the holes properly.
I only have one weight that I shoot since I just recently purchased my first 6.5 and there isn’t much bullet selection available right now.
I’ve put some requests out there for others to add their bullet data.
If anyone else here has any data feel free to add it.
So far I have:
Berger 120 gr BT Target 1.219
Berger 130 gr VLD Hunting 1.324”
Berger 135 gr Classic Hunter 1.325
Berger 140 gr VLD Hunting 1.390”
Berger 140 gr Elite Hunter 1.403”
Berger 140g Hybrid Target 1.405"
Berger 156 gr EOL Elite Hunter 1.512”

Hornady 129g Interlock: 1.175"
Hornady 140g SST: 1.392"
Hornady 140gr ELD Match 1.380”
Hornady 143g ELD-X 1.433"
Hornady 147gr ELD Match 1.435"

https://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/lengths/lengths.shtml

[thump_rrr]

Wow that is some serious layer shift. It almost looks like the build plate itself moved mid print or something. I am not the 3d printer expert so I will let some of the pro's chime in. What printer are you using btw?
Most likely the print head got caught on the print while the bed was moving.
Just had that happen with the mount last night.
I’m having a slight Z axis stepper motor issue.

[SuperMoose]

Wow that is some serious layer shift. It almost looks like the build plate itself moved mid print or something. I am not the 3d printer expert so I will let some of the pro's chime in. What printer are you using btw?

Ender 3.


Most likely the print head got caught on the print while the bed was moving.
Just had that happen with the mount last night.
I’m having a slight Z axis stepper motor issue.

Hmm...ok.

Solution being reprint?

[thump_rrr]

So who on here loads 6.5 / 7mm / .270? I don't load any, but I think I can make one die to fit all. I need someone (or multiple people) to do some testing. You will need two 3.5mm ball bearings as well. Assuming I can, the next question is what to label it. I'm thinking .270, cause this is America. Haha. Seriously though, I could go any way on the labeling. Hard to say what's more popular. I know 6.5 is all the rage these days but.....
I posted my preliminary research up above.
If you need base to ogive let me know.
I have reached out to a couple of other forums for some help in compiling data.
I have also let them know about the existence of this thread without hotlinking so I don't break forum rules.
I will try to source some 3.5mm ball bearings locally if not I have an Amazon order I need to place by tonight if I want to get my filament hot box project built this weekend.

[thump_rrr]

Ender 3.

Hmm...ok.

Solution being reprint?

If you're using Cura you can preview your slice layer by layer.
I'm sure the other slicers do the same.
Maybe just preview it to ensure that the error isn't in the slice.

My Z-axis motor issues were self inflicted.
I tried to mechanically level the z-axis but I put the 2 stepper motors out of time with each other.
I corrected that this morning.

Another thing to note is if you have made any other changes to your setup.
When I replaced my fan duct I had to increase nozzle temp 5 degrees to compensate for the added cooling.

EDIT: CHECK YOUR X-AXIS BELT TENSION. Check the Y-axis while you are at it too.
I just remembered that was the cause of my layer shift.
The nozzle hit the print and the belt skipped.
I was sitting there when it happened and I managed to spot it right away.

If you're new to 3D printing checkout this site and start with a frame check.
I've been at this for less than 4 weeks and it has helped me immensely.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

[Anuccite]

Okay, fine by me.....I'm easy.;)

So think Ed's hex print where the clutch is proud above the plate.....then think my hex print where the clutch is below the plate.


1. Buy a couple of square nuts. (since you have the square recess, that means they won't turn when you tighten the bolt on the bottom)

2. Buy flat head machine screws (since your bottom hole is chamfered) and get them long enough to go past the clutch....you'll see why in a minute.

3. So now tighten the bolts and square nuts until the plate is tight enough to resist light turning pressure.

4. Then mount the "Handle"

5. Then use your nyloc nuts on top....holds the handle on keeps the bolt from loosening. Done.

Oh, here's the handle: (just overhangs the hole, doesn't go into it because some plates like Ed's is lower, and others like the #11 is higher.)

https://i.postimg.cc/gcLYRk0R/Handle.png

Here's a picture showing why square nuts.....


Now you can keep the plate and the clutch as one easy piece to drop in and use. So you have to print a clutch for every plate.....big deal. Ok if it is a big deal then don't store them together.....still works the same....just less handy. (no my screws are too short...got to get to Ace tomorrow to remedy that.)

Yes please.... My Hex nut is very snug, and changing plates is a struggle....

[GWS]

https://i.postimg.cc/9f2wMgH4/IMG-3823.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/BvCL15Jm/IMG-3824.jpg

I don't have any nylocs either and only one screw....will today.....barely fits the regular M4. I will need to open the holes just at tad with a #'d drill since mine have to be screwed in.....but at least they screw in.;) Maybe Ed's 6-32's fit better than M4's through the clutch holes, haven't checked. (btw, in the picture, being there's only one screw, I managed not to center things....that's why the hole on the left side.:oops:)

Another option might be to make a diamond shape instead of the circle, but mine bridged the top okay, but on the next one will add a layer on top of the bridge. Left a tiny pin hole on top.

[Andar]

Is there any way to get a bullet feed die set for 6.5 Creemoor?
I tried opening up the .308 bullet feeder die file in Fusion 360 and it’s giving me a size of 88mm not 8.8mm.
The software side of things makes me want to bang my head against the wall.

When you manually import the file, it gives you the option of what scale everything should be in. You can manually adjust it down to make it match.
If you just open the file with fusion it does not give you that option. Its "Import mesh", then a dialog box will open after you select the file asking for your scale and position.

[RedlegEd]

So who on here loads 6.5 / 7mm / .270? I don't load any, but I think I can make one die to fit all. I need someone (or multiple people) to do some testing. You will need two 3.5mm ball bearings as well. Assuming I can, the next question is what to label it. I'm thinking .270, cause this is America. Haha. Seriously though, I could go any way on the labeling. Hard to say what's more popular. I know 6.5 is all the rage these days but.....
Hi TylerR,
I shoot a .260 Remington, which is 6.5mm, and my favorite jacketed bullet is the 140gr Barnes Match Burner. Basically your average 6.5mm cruise missile. The other is the NOE 266-140.
Ed
276927 276929

[TylerR]

I just posted a 7mm feed die. I would really like to see if it works on 6.5. If it does it should cover the 3 calibers I mentioned. Anyone who cares to test it out please do and let me know.

[TylerR]

I don't have any nylocs either and only one screw....will today.....barely fits the regular M4. I will need to open the holes just at tad with a #'d drill since mine have to be screwed in.....but at least they screw in.;) Maybe Ed's 6-32's fit better than M4's through the clutch holes, haven't checked. (btw, in the picture, being there's only one screw, I managed not to center things....that's why the hole on the left side.:oops:)

Another option might be to make a diamond shape instead of the circle, but mine bridged the top okay, but on the next one will add a layer on top of the bridge. Left a tiny pin hole on top.

I like what you got going on here, but my question is, what about the thinner plates where the clutch protrudes from the top of the plate?

[GWS]

It just rests on the clutch....shorter screws. Of course that's not good for RedlegEd. Don't think he liked the overhang and the visible screw shaft. He's printing one smaller diameter, and added these to keep nylocs (instead of the square nuts he didn't have in stock)from turning and filled up the exposed screw shaft? ;):

https://i.postimg.cc/FHrM0qJt/image001.jpg

Me? I may print smaller diameter ones too, but sure not necessary for me. Yet the main thing is to keep the nuts from turning so you can tighten the clutch with just a driver from the bottom.....and preferably not have to take everything apart to do it. I really like the idea of being able to put away the clutched plate intact, ready for another go......and make clutches for each plate.

[wrinkles]

Thanks for all the tips on resizing plate for AmmoMike. I started printing, see how it goes.

276943

[TylerR]

It just rests on the clutch....shorter screws. Of course that's not good for RedlegEd. Don't think he liked the overhang and the visible screw shaft. He's printing one smaller diameter, and added these to keep nylocs (instead of the square nuts he didn't have in stock)from turning and filled up the exposed screw shaft? ;):


I'm going to need to see a pic of this. Maybe Ed can post one when its done.

[SuperMoose]

If you're using Cura you can preview your slice layer by layer.
I'm sure the other slicers do the same.
Maybe just preview it to ensure that the error isn't in the slice.

My Z-axis motor issues were self inflicted.
I tried to mechanically level the z-axis but I put the 2 stepper motors out of time with each other.
I corrected that this morning.

Another thing to note is if you have made any other changes to your setup.
When I replaced my fan duct I had to increase nozzle temp 5 degrees to compensate for the added cooling.

EDIT: CHECK YOUR X-AXIS BELT TENSION. Check the Y-axis while you are at it too.
I just remembered that was the cause of my layer shift.
The nozzle hit the print and the belt skipped.
I was sitting there when it happened and I managed to spot it right away.

If you're new to 3D printing checkout this site and start with a frame check.
I've been at this for less than 4 weeks and it has helped me immensely.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Thanks for the information. I checked it in the slicer and it looks fine. I'll try reprint it at some point. I may try super gluing it first...for now...

[RedlegEd]

I like what you got going on here, but my question is, what about the thinner plates where the clutch protrudes from the top of the plate?
Hi,
I think I have a solution for that (with thanks and credit to GWS for the idea.) Here's a concept drawing of the replacement clutch plate (top piece) that has an integrated handle. I'm printing up a sample now to make sure it works as envisioned. I'll post results. I think this would lend itself easily to being user modified as far as height goes.
Ed

276944

ETA: After looking at the design above, I decided to go with the one in post #3847 below. The cross bar at the top would require supports.

[Master Sergeant]

I’m on page 18 in the manual. Downloaded bf_v1.3.9.zip, updated JRE, then clicking PartsGenerator.jar and no interface pops up. Just further expands the file tree. Can few those files but PartsGenerator doesn’t execute. Any ideas?

I can open the other folders, individually select an .stl and then slice it. PartsGenerator looks so cool that I’d like to give it a try.

Amazing job, folks.


Thanks.

[RedlegEd]

I’m on page 18 in the manual. Downloaded bf_v1.3.9.zip, updated JRE, then clicking PartsGenerator.jar and no interface pops up. Just further expands the file tree. Can few those files but PartsGenerator doesn’t execute. Any ideas?

I can open the other folders, individually select an .stl and then slice it. PartsGenerator looks so cool that I’d like to give it a try.

Amazing job, folks.
Thanks.
Hi MSG,
Did you unzip all the files and subfolders into the same directory? I found for the PartsGenerator to work, it has to be in the same folder/directory as all of the other files.
Ed

[Master Sergeant]

Yes.

Thanks

[RedlegEd]

I'm going to need to see a pic of this. Maybe Ed can post one when its done.
Hi all,
Ok, I got a new clutch plate printed. The intent was to have an integrated handle, as well as not having to hold the Nylock nut while tightening. this one is set up for a hex drive and #6-32x3/4" screw/nut, but could easily be modified to accommodate an M4 screw and nut. I changed up my original concept a little due to the overwhelming distaste for supports.
Ed
276958 276959

[stanford]

Thanks for the information. I checked it in the slicer and it looks fine. I'll try reprint it at some point. I may try super gluing it first...for now...

Don't let it get to you it happens. The one on the left was printed on Tuesday, the one on the right on Wednesday. Not sure where the problem is yet but I think its my direct gear bearing.

276960

[GWS]

Got my #11 with the clutch finished! Video below demos the clutch and then dropping Sierra 168g hollowpoints. Not quite 100% with those so far. For some reason every once in a while a bullet slides down and falls out of the hole. I added a second batch of bullets and the fourth bullet did just that.....for your pleasure.;) Maybe my maximum tilt is going to have to be ......more....as the bullet flip needs both ramps on a few.

The clutch with it's handle works perfect on the #11 at least. I may want to make the final design the same diameter as the clutch tho....since in effect with the lid/handle there's two clutches......rolling eyes....but it works great, and with the handle I can just pull the whole thing out and put it away.


https://youtu.be/45UuAHejov8

I used M4 flat head machine screws.....all I had to do with the holes is hand twist a #23 drill bit in each hole, and hand twist a chamfer tool where the flat head goes in a half dozen turns. 5 minutes worth. I had the M4 square nuts shown in a previous post of mine, so I used them and they work great. Allows tightening the clutch with only a screwdriver from the bottom.

Probably not going to make it more complicated than that since I've got a lot of other projects I want to do before I die.:)

[wrinkles]

9mm plate done. Next up .223.

276967

[thump_rrr]

Is there any way to separate the 7mm die set?
I need to reprint the interior again.
My ball bearings will be arriving on Sunday so I can start testing.

[TylerR]

Is there any way to separate the 7mm die set?
I need to reprint the interior again.
My ball bearings will be arriving on Sunday so I can start testing.

I posted them up as separate files.

[TylerR]

Got my #11 with the clutch finished! Video below demos the clutch and then dropping Sierra 168g hollowpoints. Not quite 100% with those so far. For some reason every once in a while a bullet slides down and falls out of the hole. I added a second batch of bullets and the fourth bullet did just that.....for your pleasure.;) Maybe my maximum tilt is going to have to be ......more....as the bullet flip needs both ramps on a few.

I think you need to run at more angle for two reasons. First, your bullets should flip all the way on that first ramp, and not fall back down to then hit the second ramp.
Second, the issue with the bullet falling in the hole is because there was a second one riding along side it like I described a few pages back. More angle will help those double riders to fall down sooner and not interfere when they hit the slide plate.

[GWS]

More angle. Yes, I came to that conclusion too.....it's running for now in my case feeder at just less than 45 degrees, waiting for my new motor for the silver grey collator. It works perfect for the cases so I'm not going to rock that boat, but will have to come up with a way for more angle on the new one.

I do like the clean look of the handle and most important the clutch works perfectly. The only improvement I want to make is not overlapping the clutch. Same diameter as the clutch is better so it won't care how thick the plate......and that's easy enough.

Ed's method ought to work ok too.

One thing I noticed with this plate is that there is room for bullets to lie sideways between bullets in holes and the base rim....and that's why they ride up so high to cause problems. So it takes a lot of angle to counter that. If life was perfect, we wouldn't learn anything.;)

[TylerR]

More angle. Yes, I came to that conclusion too.....it's running for now in my case feeder at just less than 45 degrees, waiting for my new motor for the silver grey collator. It works perfect for the cases so I'm not going to rock that boat, but will have to come up with a way for more angle on the new one.

I do like the clean look of the handle and most important the clutch works perfectly. The only improvement I want to make is not overlapping the clutch. Same diameter as the clutch is better so it won't care how thick the plate......and that's easy enough.

Ed's method ought to work ok too.

One thing I noticed with this plate is that there is room for bullets to lie sideways between bullets in holes and the base rim....and that's why they ride up so high to cause problems. So it takes a lot of angle to counter that. If life was perfect, we wouldn't learn anything.;)

Yup, and there is a very specific reason for that. The bullets need to sit in that groove in the plate when being fed nose up. Otherwise they will lean forward on the ramp as they approach the drop hole and jam as they fall. This does create a little more space between the bullet nose and the collator wall which can catch things. That is why the slot was put in to assist them in falling out, and the correct amount of angle is needed on the feeder so gravity can take over. There is nothing that was done on that plate that didn't have a specific purpose.

[stanford]

Are you guys using the #11 plate for the .308 bullets also? I noticed that its for the .300 blackout but the videos seems like they are running .308.

[TylerR]

Are you guys using the #11 plate for the .308 bullets also? I noticed that its for the .300 blackout but the videos seems like they are running .308.

It is really designed for 6.5-.308 bullets that are long.

[thump_rrr]

I posted them up as separate files.

I need to thank you and the other contributors for the work that has been and continues to be put into this project.
It's incredible what a bunch of people who barely know each other can accomplish.

[thump_rrr]

Are you guys using the #11 plate for the .308 bullets also? I noticed that its for the .300 blackout but the videos seems like they are running .308.
Most guys running 300 Blackout subsonic use the Hornady 208gr A-Max.
It is indeed a long bullet.

[TylerR]

I need to thank you and the other contributors for the work that has been and continues to be put into this project.
It's incredible what a bunch of people who barely know each other can accomplish.

Agreed! And I do it for two reasons. I love to design, and I love to see other people use those designs successfully and build off of them. Let's just say I have been a part of the "open source" community for a long time now. :)

[GWS]

Are you guys using the #11 plate for the .308 bullets also? I noticed that its for the .300 blackout but the videos seems like they are running .308.


I only reload .223 and .308 rifle bullets and so I've been testing the #11 for .308's. 165 grain and 168 grain seem to work fine if you have enough angle. On those maybe a little more than 45 degrees. I'm about to even test shorter 150 grain .308's....slightly pushing TylerR's envelope.....may or may not work....let you know.....waiting on a motor to really give it a test on the intended platform.

We are definitely not into make money here are we? More the opposite. But we're having fun. ;)

[TylerR]

So I save all of the stick on build plates Overture provides with their filament. I just went and counted how many I have since I started this project and it is 19 total. lol
That's a lot of filament. And it doesn't count the few rolls of crappy filament I used at first.

[thump_rrr]

So I save all of the stick on build plates Overture provides with their filament. I just went and counted how many I have since I started this project and it is 19 total. lol
That's a lot of filament. And it doesn't count the few rolls of crappy filament I used at first.

Today is 4 weeks since I bought my printer. I just bought rolls #3 and 4 today because I would have been out before the night is through.

[lostpilotz]

It seems that the new collator plates require support for the overhang in the middle. Not sure if you all are having success without supports but mine printed terribly.

[TylerR]

It seems that the new collator plates require support for the overhang in the middle. Not sure if you all are having success without supports but mine printed terribly.

Are you using the absolute latest version? The original version of the clutch required supports.

[TylerR]

So I printed out a 7mm die even though I have nothing to load with it, and tested it with 55grain .223 and they actually were captured and ran thru it fine. So I am confident they will run 6.5mm-7mm.

[wrinkles]

It seems that the new collator plates require support for the overhang in the middle. Not sure if you all are having success without supports but mine printed terribly.

I printed out two yesterday and they came out just fine without supports. How are you orienting them on the build plate?

[lostpilotz]

Are you using the absolute latest version? The original version of the clutch required supports.

I was using the collator plate generator from version 1.3.8. Would that be the problem?

[lostpilotz]

I printed out two yesterday and they came out just fine without supports. How are you orienting them on the build plate?

It looks like I am using the plate generator from v1.3.8. I will download 1.3.9 and see if it works.

[lostpilotz]

Also fyi to everyone amazon has sent me the wrong power supply twice now. Not sure what the problem is. I contacted customer support and all they did was issue a refund.

Pics of the one they keep sending me - https://imgur.com/a/nRerv1s

[TylerR]

It looks like I am using the plate generator from v1.3.8. I will download 1.3.9 and see if it works.

I know this thread moves fast and its tough to keep up, but yes v1.3.8 required supports. It was discussed to quite some extent.

[thump_rrr]

So I printed out a 7mm die even though I have nothing to load with it, and tested it with 55grain .223 and they actually were captured and ran thru it fine. So I am confident they will run 6.5mm-7mm.

I will have my ball bearings tomorrow to confirm that it works with 6.5mm.
Forgive me if I'm a little slow but I guess I need to print the 7MM drop tube to put on top of the 7MM bullet feeder die right?
I've been running in and out all day on emergency calls (no heat) since 6.30am.

[TylerR]

I will have my ball bearings tomorrow to confirm that it works with 6.5mm.
Forgive me if I'm a little slow but I guess I need to print the 7MM drop tube to put on top of the 7MM bullet feeder die right?
I've been running in and out all day on emergency calls (no heat) since 6.30am.

That should work best yes.

[lostpilotz]

I know this thread moves fast and its tough to keep up, but yes v1.3.8 required supports. It was discussed to quite some extent.

Yea I see that now a few pages back. It does move quickly. Sorry for my ignorance. Unfortunately this is not the primary forum I use for all my reloading affairs. However, this forum does have a big following (and lurkers) on other platforms and a lot of people are printing this stuff out. It is pretty cool to see.

[TylerR]

Yea I see that now a few pages back. It does move quickly. Sorry for my ignorance. Unfortunately this is not the primary forum I use for all my reloading affairs. However, this forum does have a big following (and lurkers) on other platforms and a lot of people are printing this stuff out. It is pretty cool to see.

Understood. :)

I happen to lurk on a few other boards myself, one which starts with an "a" and ends with "5" in particular. I did post some links to that board a few times but that was a long time ago. I am glad to hear people are discovering the project, while at the same time keeping it low key.

[TylerR]

Just to keep everyone up to date, o416 has been working on adding a GUI to the parts generator for collator plate generation. It is pretty cool, and is actually out there in the latest release. It is still in a bit of a beta phase so its not fully documented yet, but its pretty cool.

[GWS]

Nice to have your very own database guru! ;) Worth his weight in gold....

[TylerR]

Nice to have your very own database guru! ;) Worth his weight in gold....

I've said it before, but I will say it again. He has really done so much for the project. My hats off.

[31QjVP]

Was there a size problem with plates in 1.3.8? The two I printed with the slip clutch seem just slightly increased in overall diameter and now bind up in 2 places in my collator body (printed using 1.3.3 files)

Also, finally got around to starting to wire everything up and was wondering if anyone could share pics of the wiring for the prox sensor and/or how to determine appropriate wiring using the info sheet included with the sensor. Wiring diagram shows +/-/S but I'm not clear on how that maps to the wire colors for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Funny how that link on amazon shows it commonly purchased with power supply + relay)

[TylerR]

Was there a size problem with plates in 1.3.8? The two I printed with the slip clutch seem just slightly increased in overall diameter and now bind up in 2 places in my collator body (printed using 1.3.3 files)

Also, finally got around to starting to wire everything up and was wondering if anyone could share pics of the wiring for the prox sensor and/or how to determine appropriate wiring using the info sheet included with the sensor. Wiring diagram shows +/-/S but I'm not clear on how that maps to the wire colors for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Funny how that link on amazon shows it commonly purchased with power supply + relay)

Yes, I went from 179.5 to 180mm Should still leave plenty of clearance, and if not it may be that you need to tighten up the shaft hole. You can generate your own plates back at 179.5mm if you need to.

Please check out the manual. It has several wiring diagrams in there.

I also suggest as above to move to 1.3.9

[31QjVP]

Thanks TylerR. I ended up sanding down the edges of my printed plate to unbind it and I'll use generator for next plate I do. Or, since its only two places on the body, I may just sand down those places in the body itself. Once my Prusa arrives I'll be printing a new body for my 2nd collator anyways so will likely just use that in the end.

On the wiring diagram the issue I had is just my ignorance on proximity sensor wiring. I was going to post that I don't see how the brown + blue + black wires on the sensor map to the manual's wiring diagram +/-/S- notations. But now that I look at the wiring diagram in color instead of B&W printout, I see that + is brown, S- is black, and - is blue. sorry for dumb question. Hopefully this post can help someone else.

[TylerR]

Thanks TylerR. I ended up sanding down the edges of my printed plate to unbind it and I'll use generator for next plate I do. Or, since its only two places on the body, I may just sand down those places in the body itself. Once my Prusa arrives I'll be printing a new body for my 2nd collator anyways so will likely just use that in the end.

On the wiring diagram the issue I had is just my ignorance on proximity sensor wiring. I was going to post that I don't see how the brown + blue + black wires on the sensor map to the manual's wiring diagram +/-/S- notations. But now that I look at the wiring diagram in color instead of B&W printout, I see that + is brown, S- is black, and - is blue. sorry for dumb question. Hopefully this post can help someone else.

Awesome! Yes basically with an NPN sensor, you feed it low current + and -, and the signal (black) wire puts out - .

[TylerR]

I want to make something very clear here. Recently I have been PM'd by a number of people who are not part of this board about getting all the source files or monetizing this project. I am posting a recent PM as well as my response. I want everything to be above board with the purpose of this project and what it represents.

Hi,
I found this project through the reloading discord. There has been quite a bit of interest in the designs here, and someone suggested making collators to sell to the other discord members. Are the designs and files here free to use for that purpose or are there license fees/royalties? Most likely I would be making <10 unless there is more interest.

The license is posted and clear in the project as well as the manual.

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

This project at this point represents over a thousand hours of work, largely from me, and I will not allow it to be monetized. If anyone were to attempt to monetize this project it would be me, but I am very much against exactly that. I will also let you know that monetizing this project will potentially open you to lawsuits. You can direct anyone who is looking to purchase this as a turn key solution to this thread which has directed and built it, or just buy one from DAA.

That is this thread and this board. And I will fight tooth and nail against anyone who looks to monetize this. This is staying true to AmmoMike83's original wish for this project, and it needs to be respected.

[HuskJ]

Question, I know I can make the collator plate for the original ammo mike design size but can I also do the same for the slide plates?

[TylerR]

Question, I know I can make the collator plate for the original ammo mike design size but can I also do the same for the slide plates?

You would have to use the original AM slide plates. They are not compatible with the larger design.

[HuskJ]

Thank you! I can do that.

[o416]

Tyler should be posting version 2.0 of the manual soon which documents the new Collator Plate Generator application.

You can still manually modify the .scad via OpenSCAD, but my app just makes the process much more user friendly.

Hope you guys enjoy it :)

[o416]

I've said it before, but I will say it again. He has really done so much for the project. My hats off.

Just glad to give back :)

[kc10kevin]

I want to make something very clear here. Recently I have been PM'd by a number of people who are not part of this community or board about getting all the source files or monetizing this project. I am posting a recent PM as well as my response. I want everything to be above board with the purpose of this project and what it represents.

Hi,
I found this project through the reloading discord. There has been quite a bit of interest in the designs here, and someone suggested making collators to sell to the other discord members. Are the designs and files here free to use for that purpose or are there license fees/royalties? Most likely I would be making <10 unless there is more interest.

The license is posted and clear in the project as well as the manual.

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

This project at this point represents over a thousand hours of work, largely from me, and I will not allow it to be monetized. If anyone were to attempt to monetize this project it would be me, but I am very much against exactly that. I will also let you know that monetizing this project will potentially open you to lawsuits. You can direct anyone who is looking to purchase this as a turn key solution to this thread which has directed and built it.

That is this thread and this board. And I will fight tooth and nail against anyone who looks to monetize this. This is staying true to AmmoMike83's original wish for this project, and it needs to be respected.

Bravo Tyler! I’m sure everyone would agree that we all appreciate your hard work, along with many others who have contributed to the project. I design racing drone boards and contribute to the open source firmware. Same licensing. Time consuming and rewarding as well. Keep up the great work and let me know if I can help out with anything!

[Rcmaveric]

I want to make something very clear here. Recently I have been PM'd by a number of people who are not part of this community or board about getting all the source files or monetizing this project. I am posting a recent PM as well as my response. I want everything to be above board with the purpose of this project and what it represents.

Hi,
I found this project through the reloading discord. There has been quite a bit of interest in the designs here, and someone suggested making collators to sell to the other discord members. Are the designs and files here free to use for that purpose or are there license fees/royalties? Most likely I would be making <10 unless there is more interest.

The license is posted and clear in the project as well as the manual.

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

This project at this point represents over a thousand hours of work, largely from me, and I will not allow it to be monetized. If anyone were to attempt to monetize this project it would be me, but I am very much against exactly that. I will also let you know that monetizing this project will potentially open you to lawsuits. You can direct anyone who is looking to purchase this as a turn key solution to this thread which has directed and built it.

That is this thread and this board. And I will fight tooth and nail against anyone who looks to monetize this. This is staying true to AmmoMike83's original wish for this project, and it needs to be respected.Hell yeah. Couldnt agree more. I am huge fan of open source.

The only person I know who has permission to sell is Karl Bibbs. He has permission from ammo mike to sell the original design. But they agreed on design and quality and printing specs.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Hell yeah. Couldnt agree more. I am huge fan of open source.

The only person I know who has permission to sell is Karl Bibbs. He has permission from ammo mike to sell the original design. But they agreed on design and quality and printing specs.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

I actually cross posted to the discord 3d printing chat. Hopefully my message gets across in a positive way.

I just want this to stay true to the open source community philosophy and spirt. I don't mind people helping others out, like having a friend print something for cost. But that is much different than trying to start a business off of my designs, as well as the people that came before me, such as AM. For a truly turn key solution there are already companies that people can go to and pay money. This project is about the spirit of open source sharing for non commercial reasons, and it needs to stay that way.

[impala68]

I actually cross posted to the discord 3d printing chat. Hopefully my message gets across in a positive way.

I just want this to stay true to the open source community philosophy and spirt. I don't mind people helping others out, like having a friend print something for cost. But that is much different than trying to start a business off of my designs, as well as the people that came before me, such as AM. For a truly turn key solution there are already companies that people can go to and pay money. This project is about the spirit of open source sharing for non commercial reasons, and it needs to stay that way.


Tyler i fully agree that no one should be monetizing this (except you, maybe post the files to cults if you ever get to a final version lol) ... and i've never been particularly happy about the karl bib situation ... partially due to him not releasing his dropper dies, then having to actually pay him for one that broke before it ever dropped a bullet.

i will admit i have made 2 of these for friends (who don't have printers) but the only money that exchanged hands was for physical parts like the motor speed control and stuff like that (one even supplied me with a roll of filament) i don't charge for printing time, assembly or wiring.

i believe i'm ok under the license doing that. (please correct me if i'm wrong)

personally i believe this unit is better than the daa unit, which is why i never purchased a daa unit ... i had to get a couple running right for other friends and knew it could be better (and already owned a printer so ...)

i started by modifying the RVB opensource feeder to suite my needs then found the ammomikes one and now yours ... (which basically had all the modifications and more that i did to my RVB variants)

[TylerR]

Tyler i fully agree that no one should be monetizing this ... and i've never been particularly happy about the karl bib situation ... partially due to him not releasing his dropper dies, then having to actually pay him for one that broke before it ever dropped a bullet.

i will admit i have made 2 of these for friends (who don't have printers) but the only money that exchanged hands was for physical parts like the motor speed control and stuff like that (one even supplied me with a roll of filament) i don't charge for printing time, assembly or wiring.

i believe i'm ok under the license doing that. (please correct me if i'm wrong)

personally i believe this unit is better than the daa unit, which is why i never purchased a daa unit ... i had to get a couple running right for other friends and knew it could be better (and already owned a printer so ...)

i started by modifying the RVB opensource feeder to suite my needs then found the ammomikes one and now yours ... (which basically had all the modifications and more that i did to my RVB variants)

Absolutely! Helping a friend out for the cost of your supplies is all part of open source sharing. It just becomes a problem when people start trying to turn a profit.

[stlmacgeek]

Tyler,

Thanks for all that you and the rest of the team do. If I see anyone trying to monetize this project I will let you know directly, I hope everyone else is on the lookout as well.

I am finally ready to print a Case feeder large version and the "Downloads" link is giving me a 404 error. Is there a new version coming or is something else wrong? Latest version I have downloaded is 1.2, I would like to grab the latest before I start printing. Thank you.

[Rage 01]

To be completely honest with you. Over a year and a half ago I thought about selling bullet feeders. As matter as fact I have enough hardware to built 30 of them. I have redesigned most of Ammo Mikes original bullet feeder parts to suit my needs. I also have permission from Ammo Mike to sell his design but decided not to. To me it is not worth selling these things. I have made a couple for friends and charged them for parts. Even at that I didn't want to. I just like to tinker with stuff. I have not even printed Tylers system yet just bits and parts for testing. Usually by the time I get to print something and test it. Tyler has all ready either fixed the problem if any or made a new version. I don't know how he does it. I do commend all the hard work that everyone has put into this project. It's a great little project and in my opinion should stay non-comerical. That is part of the reason why I decided not to sell mine. You can buy a Creality Ender printer and everything to build this and still pay less than what DDA is selling theirs for.

[TylerR]

Tyler,

Thanks for all that you and the rest of the team do. If I see anyone trying to monetize this project I will let you know directly, I hope everyone else is on the lookout as well.

I am finally ready to print a Case feeder large version and the "Downloads" link is giving me a 404 error. Is there a new version coming or is something else wrong? Latest version I have downloaded is 1.2, I would like to grab the latest before I start printing. Thank you.

Thank you, I am hoping the community can help a bit in that manner.

The files are down temporarily. They will be back up with the latest version 1.4.0 in a day or so. Just keep an eye out on this thread.

[TylerR]

To be completely honest with you. Over a year and a half ago I thought about selling bullet feeders. As matter as fact I have enough hardware to built 30 of them. I have redesigned most of Ammo Mikes original bullet feeder parts to suit my needs. I also have permission from Ammo Mike to sell his design but decided not to. To me it is not worth selling these things. I have made a couple for friends and charged them for parts. Even at that I didn't want to. I just like to tinker with stuff. I have not even printed Tylers system yet just bits and parts for testing. Usually by the time I get to print something and test it. Tyler has all ready either fixed the problem if any or made a new version. I don't know how he does it. I do commend all the hard work that everyone has put into this project. It's a great little project and in my opinion should stay non-comerical. That is part of the reason why I decided not to sell mine. You can buy a Creality Ender printer and everything to build this and still pay less than what DDA is selling theirs for.

Great feedback. The best part is, what if you want a second or third feeder? Now you just saved even more. Not to mention all of the other cool things that are out there that can be printed. The thing is, learning to operate a 3d printer is not the big mystery it used to be. Just about anyone can do it with a little time spent. It's not like the old days.

[TylerR]

Bravo Tyler! I’m sure everyone would agree that we all appreciate your hard work, along with many others who have contributed to the project. I design racing drone boards and contribute to the open source firmware. Same licensing. Time consuming and rewarding as well. Keep up the great work and let me know if I can help out with anything!

You have my interest, since RC is my other major hobby. Which firmware are you talking about? I have been out of the loop for sometime but did use CleanFlight and OpenPilot quite a bit, as well as APM for fixed wing.

[djinnpb]

@TylerR I added to the bullet compatibility xlsx for 30 cal using the new clutched collator and the #11 plate.
These are added:
300BO NOE 247-FN
Nosler BT 125gr
Nosler BT 150gr
hornady .308 150 SP #3031
Sierra 308 165 HPBT
Sierra 308 175 HPBT

I tried the Speer 30 cal 125 TNT and they wouldn't work will try with other plates for grins, the lip on the plate's ramp was too far away (they're rather small).

[tanders]

speer 30 cal 125 tnt should use the large rifle plates. They work great.

[djinnpb]

speer 30 cal 125 tnt should use the large rifle plates. They work great.

Ah cool. I don't really load those but tried some random 30 cal for the large rifle plate #11. Was on a roll testing them.. That plate changed my life for my cast 300blk subs.

[silahtar]

I finally finished the feeder, works like a charm for 9mm... While working on this, I came up with few ideas that I thought I share;

- Needed a square post for the mount base (legacy 3/4" square post from AM design). Designed one on Fusion 360 and printed, use the same Mount currently available for the round post. Happy to share the design.
- I was thinking why not separate the wall from the base, just like the feed ramp? Screw them together when putting it together. I think it would help reduce some frustration when something fails 10 hours into it; sorry if it was discussed earlier...

[TylerR]

@TylerR I added to the bullet compatibility xlsx for 30 cal using the new clutched collator and the #11 plate.
These are added:
300BO NOE 247-FN
Nosler BT 125gr
Nosler BT 150gr
hornady .308 150 SP #3031
Sierra 308 165 HPBT
Sierra 308 175 HPBT

I tried the Speer 30 cal 125 TNT and they wouldn't work will try with other plates for grins, the lip on the plate's ramp was too far away (they're rather small).

This is great. Thank you.
Yes the #11 plate is really for "long" bullets. Regular rifle plate should work better for the shorter ones.

[kc10kevin]

You have my interest, since RC is my other major hobby. Which firmware are you talking about? I have been out of the loop for sometime but did use CleanFlight and OpenPilot quite a bit, as well as APM for fixed wing.

Betaflight is the major firmware right now I play around with. Contributed more in the earlier days of it. More on the hardware side now. Worked with Cleanflight, OpenPilot, iNav. I've been into RC since I was a kid (over 40 years) pretty much every platform...fixed, wings, Heli, drones. I've played with probably every platform out there too...OP, ArduPilot/APM, DJI, BF, CF, now big into the FPV/racing drone scene. Designed/built the Fury and Mamba racing drone line of flight controllers currently released by Diatone.

Again...happy to help out if you need anything.

EDIT: BTW...built 2 full setups. 1 Case and 1 bullet feeder for the 750. Work awesome!! .380, 9mm and .223 work great. 300BO testing to come. Still 2 more to go for the 550 and the LEE APP.

[TylerR]

Betaflight is the major firmware right now I play around with. Contributed more in the earlier days of it. More on the hardware side now. Worked with Cleanflight, OpenPilot, iNav. I've been into RC since I was a kid (over 40 years) pretty much every platform...fixed, wings, Heli, drones. I've played with probably every platform out there too...OP, ArduPilot/APM, DJI, BF, CF, now big into the FPV/racing drone scene. Designed/built the Fury and Mamba racing drone line of flight controllers currently released by Diatone.

Again...happy to help out if you need anything.

EDIT: BTW...built 2 full setups. 1 Case and 1 bullet feeder for the 750. Work awesome!! .380, 9mm and .223 work great. 300BO testing to come. Still 2 more to go for the 550 and the LEE APP.

That is really cool man. I have a lot of respect for the flight controller firmware/hardware and software open source developers. A lot of really smart people working on those projects, and to me represents what its all about. It's kind of crazy, but I know through personal experience that our own government has learned a lot from that community.

[kc10kevin]

That is really cool man. I have a lot of respect for the flight controller firmware/hardware and software open source developers. A lot of really smart people working on those projects, and to me represents what its all about. It's kind of crazy, but I know through personal experience that our own government has learned a lot from that community.

Appreciate that! Personal experience? Government? You work for them now? Just wondering cuz I'm retired AF and a DoD civilian now. Work out of Scott AFB flight managing the AF mobility mission.

[TylerR]

Appreciate that! Personal experience? Government? You work for them now? Just wondering cuz I'm retired AF and a DoD civilian now. Work out of Scott AFB flight managing the AF mobility mission.

I do not work for the government no. I work for a private software company.

[yoterunner]

Could someone clue me in to where the information for this project is kept. Just getting up to speed on what you all have been working on in here. Started with cobbled together case and bullet feeders way back before 3D printing them became available. Now getting involved with 3D print AM version and have some questions/information needed for sensors, wiring, plates etc. Thanks in advance. Wish I had run across this project months ago to look over all of it before jumping into the thingiverse projects.

[kc10kevin]

I do not work for the government no. I work for a private software company.

Got it. Hopefully the pay is better!! lol

[Falconpunch]

Could someone clue me in to where the information for this project is kept. Just getting up to speed on what you all have been working on in here. Started with cobbled together case and bullet feeders way back before 3D printing them became available. Now getting involved with 3D print AM version and have some questions/information needed for sensors, wiring, plates etc. Thanks in advance. Wish I had run across this project months ago to look over all of it before jumping into the thingiverse projects.

Looks like Tyler might be updating the manual and files. Keep checking his Downloads link on his signature. All the information you need is in that great manual he has.

Is anyone using the Double Dillon 750 mount to hold 2 feeders? Just wondering if I should print that or if someone found another way to install 2 printers using the 750 casefeeder pole.

[yoterunner]

Thanks Falcon, I had seen those but when I went to them had not much access/info I’m able to see. I’ll check again later. Appreciate the reply.

[kc10kevin]

Looks like Tyler might be updating the manual and files. Keep checking his Downloads link on his signature. All the information you need is in that great manual he has.

Is anyone using the Double Dillon 750 mount to hold 2 feeders? Just wondering if I should print that or if someone found another way to install 2 printers using the 750 casefeeder pole.

Give me a little bit. I'll take a pic of my setup and see if you like it. Easier to print. Uses 1 inch square aluminum tube from big box stores.

EDIT: Here you go. Unfortunately, no way to get around support for the middle part where the tube goes through. Simple 1 inch square aluminum from HD or Lowes. Tapped with 1/4-20. Sorry for the mess...still temp setup.

277211
277212
277213
277214
277215
277216
277217
277218

[TylerR]

v1.4.0 has been posted.

[yoterunner]

Guys, I finally figured out access to the information and have done some looking over it. I must say, this is by far the best resource I have seen with regards to something out in public domain and free to access. You all have put in a ton of work and I wish I had just a little bit of the talent it took to do this. Awesome stuff!!!!

[impala68]

277233 just figured i would post a pic of my latest build ... and i have a friend that i did one for his Lee app who does a youtube channel called sketers buzz who will be posting a video of it soon

[shinne]

Weird question, but I have a MRB conversion kit, would it be possible to print out the bullet feeder and still be able to reuse the parts from the conversion kit?

[TylerR]

just figured i would post a pic of my latest build ... and i have a friend that i did one for his Lee app who does a youtube channel called sketers buzz who will be posting a video of it soon

Cool. Please have him mention the licensing and attribution in his video.

[Falconpunch]

Give me a little bit. I'll take a pic of my setup and see if you like it. Easier to print. Uses 1 inch square aluminum tube from big box stores.

EDIT: Here you go. Unfortunately, no way to get around support for the middle part where the tube goes through. Simple 1 inch square aluminum from HD or Lowes. Tapped with 1/4-20. Sorry for the mess...still temp setup.

277211
277212
277213
277214
277215
277216
277217
277218

That looks amazing!! I would definitely be interested in giving that a try. I see no mess there compared to my bench lol.

[kc10kevin]

That looks amazing!! I would definitely be interested in giving that a try. I see no mess there compared to my bench lol.

Thanks. Lol. You didn’t see what’s below all over the bench! I PMd you.

[Anuccite]

Give me a little bit. I'll take a pic of my setup and see if you like it. Easier to print. Uses 1 inch square aluminum tube from big box stores.

EDIT: Here you go. Unfortunately, no way to get around support for the middle part where the tube goes through. Simple 1 inch square aluminum from HD or Lowes. Tapped with 1/4-20. Sorry for the mess...still temp setup.

You have the STL's avaliable for this.... I just pulled the trigger on a XL750 and didn't order the case feeder, figure I will use 2 of these guys...

FYI Dillon estimates 12 weeks wait on order!

[thump_rrr]

A little update.
Printed the 6.5 Creedmoor rifle plate ans started testing with Hornady 140gr ELD-M bullets.
Bullets kept jamming in the right hand bolt holes for the Dillon mount.
Plugged holes and continued testing.
As soon as I had more than 12 bullets in the collator they would fly out as seen in the video below.
I tried installing the sweeper but all it does is jam things up
I am currently printing a rudimentary tall flipper and will get back to testing tomorrow.
https://i.postimg.cc/XN8VDXdQ/655-F1-B7-B-21-EB-4032-8-C63-B28-BF0-D3043-C.jpg (https://postimg.cc/7b585HB2)screenshot studio (https://postimages.org/app)

https://youtu.be/tWk0EAhsBxg

[cdstang]

You have the STL's avaliable for this.... I just pulled the trigger on a XL750 and didn't order the case feeder, figure I will use 2 of these guys...

FYI Dillon estimates 12 weeks wait on order!

When I ordered my 750 last month it only took a week for the press to ship.. But its been 4 weeks now for a 223 conversion kit.

[RedlegEd]

Give me a little bit. I'll take a pic of my setup and see if you like it. Easier to print. Uses 1 inch square aluminum tube from big box stores.

EDIT: Here you go. Unfortunately, no way to get around support for the middle part where the tube goes through. Simple 1 inch square aluminum from HD or Lowes. Tapped with 1/4-20. Sorry for the mess...still temp setup.

277211


Hi Kevin,
First, thank you for your service! Really a nice job on the mount, very much like the square tube mount that GWS came up with. What was design CAD? I think I'll borrow some of your design but as a clamp-on as my XL650 has the Dillon Case Feeder. That way I can mount my bullet feeder to the post instead of onto the bowl of the case feeder. Did you post the STLs on Thingiverse?
Ed

[TylerR]

A little update.
Printed the 6.5 Creednoor rifle plate ans started testing with Hornady 140gr ELD-M bullets.
Bullets kept jamming in the right hand bolt holes for the Dillon mount.
Plugged holes and continued testing.
As soon as I had more than 12 bullets in the collator they would fly out as seen in the video below.
I tried installing the sweeper but all it does is jam things up
I am currently printing a rudimentary tall flipper and will get back to testing tomorrow.


You need to be using the #11 slide plate with the #11 collator plate. Never going to work with a regular slide.

[RedlegEd]

A little update.
Printed the 6.5 Creednoor rifle plate ans started testing with Hornady 140gr ELD-M bullets.
Bullets kept jamming in the right hand bolt holes for the Dillon mount.
Plugged holes and continued testing.
As soon as I had more than 12 bullets in the collator they would fly out as seen in the video below.
I tried installing the sweeper but all it does is jam things up
I am currently printing a rudimentary tall flipper and will get back to testing tomorrow.
https://i.postimg.cc/XN8VDXdQ/655-F1-B7-B-21-EB-4032-8-C63-B28-BF0-D3043-C.jpg (https://postimg.cc/7b585HB2)screenshot studio (https://postimages.org/app)


Hi thump_rrr,
Just a suggestion, but why not print a simple plug for the bolt/screw hole(s) to prevent the tips from digging in? If you still have that red filament, it'll even match!
Ed

[Anuccite]

When I ordered my 750 last month it only took a week for the press to ship.. But its been 4 weeks now for a 223 conversion kit.

That's Promising! I ordered 9, 223, and .45acp

[thump_rrr]

Hi thump_rrr,
Just a suggestion, but why not print a simple plug for the bolt/screw hole(s) to prevent the tips from digging in? If you still have that red filament, it'll even match!
EdAlready done.

[thump_rrr]

You need to be using the #11 slide plate with the #11 collator plate. Never going to work with a regular slide.
That is the #11 Collator plate with 2 changes H=20 and W=6.72 as per the notes in OpenScad.
I tried the #11 slide plate and all the bullets fall out. I will post a video of that tonight.

[TylerR]

That is the #11 Collator plate with 2 changes H=20 and W=6.72 as per the notes in OpenScad.
I tried the #11 slide plate and all the bullets fall out. I will post a video of that tonight.

Yes please do. Would like to help you work through the issue.

[GWS]

That is a problem I had with my #11 plate even using the #11 slider too.....bullets get stuck between bullets in hole and the base wall and they don't play nice from that position. It was only tilted at 35 degrees tho so wondering what 45 degrees will do. Waiting for a motor for the new base I just mounted with a proper rotating mount to test. Hoping it comes in today....

[TylerR]

That is a problem I had with my #11 plate even using the #11 slider too.....bullets get stuck between bullets in hole and the base wall and they don't play nice from that position. It was only tilted at 35 degrees tho so wondering what 45 degrees will do. Waiting for a motor for the new base I just mounted with a proper rotating mount to test. Hoping it comes in today....

I recommend 45 degrees at a minimum for anything. That is about what the Dillon case feeder is. But some things benefit from a steeper angle. Feeding brass base up is one of them. Using the #11 plate and slide is another. Go big my man!

[kc10kevin]

You have the STL's avaliable for this.... I just pulled the trigger on a XL750 and didn't order the case feeder, figure I will use 2 of these guys...

FYI Dillon estimates 12 weeks wait on order!


Hi Kevin,
First, thank you for your service! Really a nice job on the mount, very much like the square tube mount that GWS came up with. What was design CAD? I think I'll borrow some of your design but as a clamp-on as my XL650 has the Dillon Case Feeder. That way I can mount my bullet feeder to the post instead of onto the bowl of the case feeder. Did you post the STLs on Thingiverse?
Ed

Thanks Ed. Much appreciated. Thanks for your service as well! I try not to recreate the wheel, so took the existing design and modified as you mentioned. Really just cut off the bottom and put the cutout in for the 1 inch square tube. The pole mount was more my design and it shows! Crappy! lol. But it works! As mentioned above, supports will have to be used for the tube cutout. Not too hard to get out with an exacto knife. I used TinkerCAD to modify the designs. Simple, but it works.

All holes are designed for 1/4-20 bolts. Simply drill/tap the pole and tube when it's set where you want it. I actually have not drilled the BF mounts at all yet. They fit nice and tight.

Here are the files. First time sharing in Google Drive, so let me know if there is an issue:

Dillon Mount Files (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1e9dJymdU12ILaVFkLFW-86Y8ZvpbEWLZ?usp=sharing)

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Kevin

[mcrabb23]

I just started looking through the documentation and wanted to say how amazing it all is. Big thank you to everyone that's put everything together. I have noticed that a couple items on the Non-3D Printed Parts shopping list have dead links/links to things that are no longer stocked. Speed Controller and Female adapter plug, specifically. I think this (https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Controller-Adjustable-Reversible/dp/B07BKX4MT3/ref=sr_1_17?crid=1929K5XAYYSZZ&dchild=1&keywords=12v+5a+speed+controller&qid=1612887972&sprefix=12v+5a+speed+con%2Ctools%2C516&sr=8-17) would work for the speed controller (and maybe remove the need for the other power switch??), can someone verify that? The female adapter plugs should be pretty easy to replace since there's nothing special about them compared to other similar items.

[thump_rrr]

Thanks Ed. Much appreciated. Thanks for your service as well! I try not to recreate the wheel, so took the existing design and modified as you mentioned. Really just cut off the bottom and put the cutout in for the 1 inch square tube. The pole mount was more my design and it shows! Crappy! lol. But it works! As mentioned above, supports will have to be used for the tube cutout. Not too hard to get out with an exacto knife. I used TinkerCAD to modify the designs. Simple, but it works.

All holes are designed for 1/4-20 bolts. Simply drill/tap the pole and tube when it's set where you want it. I actually have not drilled the BF mounts at all yet. They fit nice and tight.

Here are the files. First time sharing in Google Drive, so let me know if there is an issue:

Dillon Mount Files (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1e9dJymdU12ILaVFkLFW-86Y8ZvpbEWLZ?usp=sharing)

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Kevin
Just last night I took the post base with the round hole and converted it to square on Tinkercad.
I will be printing it off tonight and it should be ready tomorrow to test.
I will be installing it on my OEM Hornady bullet feeder post.
Once it’s done I can post the STL file.
I’ll have to figure out where I can post it.

[GWS]

I recommend 45 degrees at a minimum for anything. That is about what the Dillon case feeder is. But some things benefit from a steeper angle. Feeding brass base up is one of them. Using the #11 plate and slide is another. Go big my man!

The 35 degrees is perfect for the case feeder dropping straight down into my RCBS case feeder tube.....which is why I don't want to move that one.;)

My email says my motor (Dayton from Zoro) is "out for delivery"! Goodie! Zoro was the cheapest I found for that size motor....McMaster-Carr was more pricy. And my swivel-mount is almost done. Will hopefully finish everything tonight after work. Time now to get back to it....

[TylerR]

I just started looking through the documentation and wanted to say how amazing it all is. Big thank you to everyone that's put everything together. I have noticed that a couple items on the Non-3D Printed Parts shopping list have dead links/links to things that are no longer stocked. Speed Controller and Female adapter plug, specifically. I think this (https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Controller-Adjustable-Reversible/dp/B07BKX4MT3/ref=sr_1_17?crid=1929K5XAYYSZZ&dchild=1&keywords=12v+5a+speed+controller&qid=1612887972&sprefix=12v+5a+speed+con%2Ctools%2C516&sr=8-17) would work for the speed controller (and maybe remove the need for the other power switch??), can someone verify that? The female adapter plugs should be pretty easy to replace since there's nothing special about them compared to other similar items.

I believe that controller should work. This is what makes designing an electronics box so hard. It just changes so frequently.

[Anuccite]

I just started looking through the documentation and wanted to say how amazing it all is. Big thank you to everyone that's put everything together. I have noticed that a couple items on the Non-3D Printed Parts shopping list have dead links/links to things that are no longer stocked. Speed Controller and Female adapter plug, specifically. I think this (https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Controller-Adjustable-Reversible/dp/B07BKX4MT3/ref=sr_1_17?crid=1929K5XAYYSZZ&dchild=1&keywords=12v+5a+speed+controller&qid=1612887972&sprefix=12v+5a+speed+con%2Ctools%2C516&sr=8-17) would work for the speed controller (and maybe remove the need for the other power switch??), can someone verify that? The female adapter plugs should be pretty easy to replace since there's nothing special about them compared to other similar items.

It's really overkill...... This is an on / off speed controller in one.

I personally add another switch, just because I don't want the LED (I use the photosensor drop tube) on all the time...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BJ4WQCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

It's really overkill...... This is an on / off speed controller in one.

I personally add another switch, just because I don't want the LED (I use the photosensor drop tube) on all the time...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BJ4WQCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a very good point, and one I didn't want to confuse anyone on, but I may alter the wiring diagram to include another switch. When the switch is also on the speed controller, and using a relay as in my diagram, the sensor is always going to be powered. Is it a big deal? Probably not. But it bugs me.

[thump_rrr]

The added bonus of a separate on/off switch is that you can set the motor speed and leave it.

[TylerR]

The added bonus of a separate on/off switch is that you can set the motor speed and leave it.

Agreed. I believe GWS also pointed that out, and it makes total sense.

[thump_rrr]

As promised BNU11 failure videos.
Collator angles between 30 degrees and 60 degrees in 5 degree increments no change.
Any suggestions welcome.


https://youtu.be/Q7X9KeCo-OA

https://youtu.be/GMe1vFhMK1U

https://youtu.be/OI5qhf06gxY

[TylerR]

[QUOTE=thump_rrr;5113364]As promised BNU11 failure videos.
Collator angles between 30 degrees and 60 degrees in 5 degree increments no change.
Any suggestions welcome.

Are these supposed to feed point up or down?

[thump_rrr]

[QUOTE=thump_rrr;5113364]As promised BNU11 failure videos.
Collator angles between 30 degrees and 60 degrees in 5 degree increments no change.
Any suggestions welcome.

Are these supposed to feed point up or down?
Nose up.
My understanding is that BNU means Bullet Nose Up.
Maybe a 7.62 bullet pointing nose up doesn't fall down and rides the ridge around.
I would have to print up a 308 collator plate to find that out.

[TylerR]

[QUOTE=TylerR;5113382]
Nose up

OK, so the first problem is that nose up are falling off the ledge. They should not. Which means the plate needs to be pulled out some.

[thump_rrr]

[QUOTE=thump_rrr;5113383]

OK, so the first problem is that nose up are falling off the ledge. They should not. Which means the plate needs to be pulled out some.

Yes sorry I edited my post above yours.
If I pull out the plate 3/16" (4.76mm) everything works perfectly.
I'll go back and see if 1/8" works.
I'm using drill bits to space the plate out.

[TylerR]

[QUOTE=TylerR;5113385]

Yes sorry I edited my post above yours.
If I pull out the plate 3/16" (4.76mm) everything works perfectly.
I'll go back and see if 1/8" works.
I'm using drill bits to space the plate out.

Put a small screw in the back of the plate and see if that works, there is a hole for it. That way your adjustment is repeatable.

[thump_rrr]

[QUOTE=thump_rrr;5113387]

Put a small screw in the back of the plate and see if that works, there is a hole for it. That way your adjustment is repeatable.
I reprinted BNU11 after moving the ledge forward 3mm in Tinkercad.
https://i.postimg.cc/k4hqpyyd/1-A0-E4-CC7-9-D08-4-DFA-8-FB0-C5-E48-F073413.jpg (https://postimg.cc/sQSkB78n)

You may also notice my super flipper which is just 2 flippers superimposed on top of one another.

https://youtu.be/r6lv3wKqGL8

[Anuccite]

[QUOTE=TylerR;5113402]
I reprinted BNU11 after moving the ledge forward 3mm in Tinkercad.
https://i.postimg.cc/k4hqpyyd/1-A0-E4-CC7-9-D08-4-DFA-8-FB0-C5-E48-F073413.jpg (https://postimg.cc/sQSkB78n)

You may also notice my super flipper which is just 2 flippers superimposed on top of one another.


Awesome!

[TylerR]

[QUOTE=TylerR;5113402]
I reprinted BNU11 after moving the ledge forward 3mm in Tinkercad.

You may also notice my super flipper which is just 2 flippers superimposed on top of one another.


Glad to see it working. Just curious, any reason you didn't just opt to use a screw for the spacing?
I like the idea of a larger flipper. Makes me think perhaps the stock one should be taller. Maybe not quite double though.

[TylerR]

That is the #11 Collator plate with 2 changes H=20 and W=6.72 as per the notes in OpenScad.
I tried the #11 slide plate and all the bullets fall out. I will post a video of that tonight.

I just realized the changes you made here, and now it makes sense the #11 slide needed to be moved out. I would make a suggestion to anyone else attempting 6.5 to just print the stock #11 collator plate and slide that are already generated and I think it would work perfectly.

[GWS]

The flipper was used exactly one time at 17 seconds in.....could not tell if the doubled one made the difference, but what I did notice is that there were way less bullets between the base wall and the already holed bullets than in my experience....like zero?....what angle was it set? Looks good.

What I'm most interested in is the TinkerCad connection. Did you just take measurements and make a new model, or somehow get TylerR's STL to work on Tinkercad? That would be a game changer if you could do that......

I got my new motor in, but I also screwed up my wiring.....or at least I thought I did. Turns out it was a bad connector to the wall wart and I took it all back apart for nothing.......maybe today.... I did come up with a better way to rotate angles on my system.....more later when I get it finished.

[TylerR]

The flipper was used exactly one time at 17 seconds in.....could not tell if the doubled one made the difference, but what I did notice is that there were way less bullets between the base wall and the already holed bullets than in my experience....like zero?....what angle was it set? Looks good.

What I'm most interested in is the TinkerCad connection. Did you just take measurements and make a new model, or somehow get TylerR's STL to work on Tinkercad? That would be a game changer if you could do that......

I got my new motor in, but I also screwed up my wiring.....or at least I thought I did. Turns out it was a bad connector to the wall wart and I took it all back apart for nothing.......maybe today.... I did come up with a better way to rotate angles on my system.....more later when I get it finished.

Yeah I am definitely going to make the flipper a bit taller. I think it just makes sense.

"Did you just take measurements and make a new model?"
If he did that he is a master. That plate would not be easy to replicate from scratch. :)

[thump_rrr]

[QUOTE=thump_rrr;5113825]

Glad to see it working. Just curious, any reason you didn't just opt to use a screw for the spacing?
I like the idea of a larger flipper. Makes me think perhaps the stock one should be taller. Maybe not quite double though.
My OCD is the only reason LOL.
I didn’t like the fact that the front of the plate stuck out.

[thump_rrr]

The flipper was used exactly one time at 17 seconds in.....could not tell if the doubled one made the difference, but what I did notice is that there were way less bullets between the base wall and the already holed bullets than in my experience....like zero?....what angle was it set? Looks good.

What I'm most interested in is the TinkerCad connection. Did you just take measurements and make a new model, or somehow get TylerR's STL to work on Tinkercad? That would be a game changer if you could do that......

I got my new motor in, but I also screwed up my wiring.....or at least I thought I did. Turns out it was a bad connector to the wall wart and I took it all back apart for nothing.......maybe today.... I did come up with a better way to rotate angles on my system.....more later when I get it finished.
You can import STL files into tinkercad then you add and subtract bits and pieces of different shapes to either add or subtract material.

I bet you that most 5 year olds could probably do it faster than I can.
I downloaded probably every CAD program available yet I can’t figure out how to modify a single line.

The funny part is that I’m a mechanical contractor.
I still do duct design by pen and paper.

Edit: The angle was exactly 45 degrees.
I think that the flipper also came into play at around the 13-14 second mark.
In testing sessions with more bullets it came into play even more.

[thump_rrr]

I just realized the changes you made here, and now it makes sense the #11 slide needed to be moved out. I would make a suggestion to anyone else attempting 6.5 to just print the stock #11 collator plate and slide that are already generated and I think it would work perfectly.
If you print the #11 collator in its stock form the holes will be sized for 308.
I believe that the bullets would flop around a lot more and may not be centred with the drop tube.
I will eventually print a #11 plate for 308 so I can test it out to see if it will work.

[TylerR]

If you print the #11 collator in its stock form the holes will be sized for 308.
I believe that the bullets would flop around a lot more and may not be centred with the drop tube.
I will eventually print a #11 plate for 308 so I can test it out to see if it will work.

Yes there would be some extra room but I don't believe it would hurt anything. If you do get a chance to try it let us know please.

[GWS]

You can import STL files into tinkercad then you add and subtract bits and pieces of different shapes to either add or subtract material.

I bet you that most 5 year olds could probably do it faster than I can.
I downloaded probably every CAD program available yet I can’t figure out how to modify a single line.

The funny part is that I’m a mechanical contractor.
I still do duct design by pen and paper.

Edit: The angle was exactly 45 degrees.
I think that the flipper also came into play at around the 13-14 second mark.
In testing sessions with more bullets it came into play even more.



I'll have to try it out.......I've designed buildings in Autocad (be 50 years in 22) and just started playing with the 3d side this year!.......for 3d printing reloading tools of course. My experience in the trade is that 3d buildings are just for the owners who can't see in 3d using 2d drawings......and I won't do that for just anyone......costs too much time.....and the subcontractors won't use them anyway.....they just confuse everything.

But Autocad can only export .STLs........and that's been frustrating.

BTW, my mechanical contractor of choice gives me his designs (one liner's on paper) and I make nice 2D drawings from them for the project documents. ;) But haven't done that for a while....think the last one was a grocery store.

[SuperMoose]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp. eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm filament.

https://i.imgur.com/uPevhpq.jpg

[Anuccite]

What Filament? I see Esun pla...

What are the rest of your settings.... and have you calibrated esteps and all that as per the manual?

[TylerR]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp.


I have been 3d printing for a long time now, and I have to be honest I am not even sure where to start with that. Hopefully someone better at troubleshooting will chime in on this one.

[SuperMoose]

What Filament?

eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm

[thump_rrr]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp. eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm filament.

https://i.imgur.com/uPevhpq.jpg

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
I always start by doing a frame check.
Check to ensure you have good belt tension.
Next is testing and calibrating the extruder.
I then do a first layer test.
If I don’t get a uniform first layer I replace the nozzle and try again.

I also never go below 20% fill.

[Anuccite]

This was printing so nice! While I was admiring it, I realized I sliced the wrong Base!
277316

[Anuccite]

I also never go below 20% fill.

I have become a huge fan of Gryoid infill and 10%.... See my misprinted base above

[stanford]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp. eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm filament.

https://i.imgur.com/uPevhpq.jpg

1. Do a test print with a brim, use about 5-6 outlines on the brim and 0 mm from the part so basically it sticks to the edges of the part.. This will hold the print down on the plate while its printing.
2. Are you printing on a glass bed?
3. If the brim doesn't work then you will have to print on a raft.

Explain your setup or take a picture so I can see what's going on. Most of us here have been printing for a while so we can help you end the frustration.

[stanford]

This was printing so nice! While I was admiring it, I realized I sliced the wrong Base!
277316

That is so funny. When I started printing out this project I think around christmas while my son was visiting. I printed out the base twice and I was asking my son if he could see anything wrong with the print because it doesn't look right. After he told me that it look reversed I didn't understand what he meant.

Well upon closer inspection come to find out I had calibrated my printer backwards so the printed spring side of the base was now printed on the right side of the base. The print came out perfect (twice), but it was inverted. I had just upgraded to a newer version of Marlin so you see the confusion. If I still have that base I will post a pic, its the smaller AM base.

[stanford]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp. eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm filament.

https://i.imgur.com/uPevhpq.jpg

POST 3963 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5114192&viewfull=1#post5114192 you can see the brim around the print. That will prevent prints from lifting off the bed or getting knocked off while printing.

Here is a video of my CR-10S that I am reassembling. If your printer is doing this stuff then you are in trouble. I am still tuning it up so its crazy right now. Pay attention to the earthquake at the end of the video.

https://youtu.be/eu8_DVl1baI

[SuperMoose]

1. Do a test print with a brim, use about 5-6 outlines on the brim and 0 mm from the part so basically it sticks to the edges of the part.. This will hold the print down on the plate while its printing.
2. Are you printing on a glass bed?
3. If the brim doesn't work then you will have to print on a raft.

Explain your setup or take a picture so I can see what's going on. Most of us here have been printing for a while so we can help you end the frustration.

I am printing on a glass bed. I put these on a raft because the piece on the left (when I did the 9mm version) must have gotten loose and was a mess with filament everywhere. The raft fixed the issue for those.

https://i.imgur.com/m6ob4ov.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IaGCLbw.jpg

[TylerR]

I am printing on a glass bed. I put these on a raft because the piece on the left (when I did the 9mm version) must have gotten loose and was a mess with filament everywhere. The raft fixed the issue for those.


Printing on glass is tough. I did it for years with ABS using glue stick. Since I got my ender 5 I print all in PLA now, and am a big fan of the poly plates like this one. I used some 220 sandpaper to rough the surface up and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/235-235mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JFY2LPN/ref=psdc_8481419011_t3_B07YFCVR6G

[thump_rrr]

I’ve been having a hell of a time printing the bullet feeder die for 6.5-7mm.
The inner part always gets knocked over for some reason.
I tried a raft, brim, glue stick, combinations there of.

[wrinkles]

Printing on glass is tough. I did it for years with ABS using glue stick. Since I got my ender 5 I print all in PLA now, and am a big fan of the poly plates like this one. I used some 220 sandpaper to rough the surface up and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/235-235mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JFY2LPN/ref=psdc_8481419011_t3_B07YFCVR6G

When I have trouble getting pla to stick on glass I just spray some hair spray on the glass. I good thick layer or two of hair spray will make it stick.

[SuperMoose]

Printing on glass is tough. I did it for years with ABS using glue stick. Since I got my ender 5 I print all in PLA now, and am a big fan of the poly plates like this one. I used some 220 sandpaper to rough the surface up and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/235-235mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JFY2LPN/ref=psdc_8481419011_t3_B07YFCVR6G

I really like the glass since it releases when it cools. I destroyed the bottom plate that came with it trying to remove prints. I'll try printing with a brim to see if that solves the problem.

[yoterunner]

I had the same problem on first run trying to print the bullet feed dies in .223. I added an brim and it worked great. First run got just to the top of the first set of holes for ball bearings and came loose.

[TylerR]

I’ve been having a hell of a time printing the bullet feeder die for 6.5-7mm.
The inner part always gets knocked over for some reason.
I tried a raft, brim, glue stick, combinations there of.

Speaking of, I have still not received any feedback on that die. Are you printing on glass as well, or some other build surface? Even under the worst conditions, raft always gives me a successful print. But I use it very rarely.

[thump_rrr]

Speaking of, I have still not received any feedback on that die. Are you printing on glass as well, or some other build surface? Even under the worst conditions, raft always gives me a successful print. But I use it very rarely.
I got one successful print but it seems like the internal surface where the ball bearings ride seems rough so bullets are jamming.
I had to pass a drill bit through the inside to get the bullets to fall freely even without ball bearings.

Once my Mount post base print completes tomorrow morning I will try printing the bullet feeder die in PLA. I will print it one piece at a time and I may try enabling Z Hop in case the nozzle is hitting the edge and knocking it over.

The bed surface is the factory Creality Carborundum glass.
Typically things stick like glue to it.

Edit: what are you guys using for elastics?
It’s almost like I need a second printer.

[TylerR]

I got one successful print but it seems like the internal surface where the ball bearings ride seems rough so bullets are jamming.
I had to pass a drill bit through the inside to get the bullets to fall freely even without ball bearings.

Once my Mount post base print completes tomorrow morning I will try printing the bullet feeder die in PLA. I will print it one piece at a time and I may try enabling Z Hop in case the nozzle is hitting the edge and knocking it over.

The bed surface is the factory Creality Carborundum glass.
Typically things stick like glue to it.

Edit: what are you guys using for elastics?
It’s almost like I need a second printer.

Which bullets are you trying to feed? I assume the 6.5 you are collating? It should not be tight at all for those, as the opening is actually 7.1mm.
Are you printing at .12 layer height? If it is still tight try using some acetone with a cleaning jag and smooth out the opening.

Check the manual for the link to the mcmaster carr springs. They work 1000 times better then elastics or orings.

[Anuccite]

I really like the glass since it releases when it cools. I destroyed the bottom plate that came with it trying to remove prints. I'll try printing with a brim to see if that solves the problem.

Given how nice the other items came out..... Maybe something went crazy when it sliced..... Try and re-slice it

[thump_rrr]

Which bullets are you trying to feed? Are you printing at .12 layer height?

Check the manual for the link to the mcmaster carr springs. They work 1000 times better then elastics or orings.

Yes 0.12 layer height.

Unfortunately McMaster-Carr isn’t taking any new Canadian clientele.
They will only do corporate accounts for their American clients who have operations in Canada.

[RedlegEd]

Edit: what are you guys using for elastics?
It’s almost like I need a second printer.
Hi,
Can't help with the second printer, but I'm using these Orthodontic Elastics I got on Ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dental-Orthodontic-Intraoral-Elastic-Latex-Rubber-Bands-Light-Medium-Heavy/133565811663?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=433024800517&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649). In hindsight, I guess the 1/4" or 5/16" would have been plenty, but the 3/8" work well too. I use two or three per side to give me enough tension. Hope this helps.
Ed

277338

[TylerR]

Hi,
Can't help with the second printer, but I'm using these Orthodontic Elastics I got on Ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dental-Orthodontic-Intraoral-Elastic-Latex-Rubber-Bands-Light-Medium-Heavy/133565811663?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=433024800517&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649). In hindsight, I guess the 1/4" or 5/16" would have been plenty, but the 3/8" work well too. I use two or three per side to give me enough tension. Hope this helps.
Ed


You know Ed, I don't think I got any feedback on the die from you, or if I did I forgot because I am old. I know you had the initial issue with the ball bearing hole size, which I tweaked. How is it working?

[TylerR]

Yes 0.12 layer height.

Unfortunately McMaster-Carr isn’t taking any new Canadian clientele.
They will only do corporate accounts for their American clients who have operations in Canada.

Well that is annoying. I could always buy some and ship them up to my Canadian brothers :)

I edited my post from when you responded. Please see my other questions.

[RedlegEd]

You know Ed, I don't think I got any feedback on the die from you, or if I did I forgot because I am old. I know you had the initial issue with the ball bearing hole size, which I tweaked. How is it working?
Hi TylerR,
My sincere apologies! Once you got me the updated file and I reprinted, everything came out perfect (and it also works with my bowler hat BB as well!) I wish I could show you a video, but my XL650 isn't completely set up yet. I promise, as soon as it is, I'll post a video. I can tell you when I manually run the die with a stack of bullets, it performs flawlessly.
Ed

[thump_rrr]

Which bullets are you trying to feed? I assume the 6.5 you are collating? It should not be tight at all for those, as the opening is actually 7.1mm.
Are you printing at .12 layer height? If it is still tight try using some acetone with a cleaning jag and smooth out the opening.

Check the manual for the link to the mcmaster carr springs. They work 1000 times better then elastics or orings.
Edit: Page 200 WooHoo.
Yes I’m using the same 140gr Hornady ELD-M.
I’m using PETG. From what I’ve read it isn’t affected by acetone which is why I will be trying PLA next.
You do realize that a 6.5mm bullet is actually 0.2644” or 6.72mm.
A 7mm bullet is 0.284” or 7.2mm

This is the closest thing I have to 7.1mm.
https://i.postimg.cc/4yPvtCWb/33645674-64-AA-43-D6-AB00-B4-DCFC7-F46-F5.jpg (https://postimg.cc/CnZfT2Tz)

It’s not even close to fitting even if I try to force it.

https://i.postimg.cc/C5SHzMsx/4-BAA7-F14-B28-B-41-E2-8182-E252481-D583-A.jpg (https://postimg.cc/VrZbh8hx)

This drill bit is 6.7mm and will not drop through.
I can shake it as hard as I can and it won’t drop through.
https://i.postimg.cc/Z58bLT8S/0-DE04-EB8-16-B7-4-B45-80-BD-64-D5-C909-B497.jpg (https://postimg.cc/5XtW4WK7)

[TylerR]

Hi TylerR,
My sincere apologies! Once you got me the updated file and I reprinted, everything came out perfect (and it also works with my bowler hat BB as well!) I wish I could show you a video, but my XL650 isn't completely set up yet. I promise, as soon as it is, I'll post a video. I can tell you when I manually run the die with a stack of bullets, it performs flawlessly.
Ed

Thank you Ed. Looking forward to that video.

[TylerR]

Edit: Page 200 WooHoo.
Yes I’m using the same 140gr Hornady ELD-M.
I’m using PETG. From what I’ve read it isn’t affected by acetone which is why I will be trying PLA next.
You do realize that a 6.5mm bullet is actually 0.2644” or 6.72mm.
A 7mm bullet is 0.284” or 7.2mm

This is the closest thing I have to 7.1mm.

It’s not even close to fitting even if I try to force it.

This drill bit is 6.7mm and will not drop through.
I can shake it as hard as I can and it won’t drop through.


Yes I do realize that. I went back and looked at the cad file and it is currently set to 7.2, which you are right, probably wont work for 7mm now that you say. But it should definitely work for 6.5 (6.72). Maybe 7mm would have to be another die. That's kind of what I am trying to figure out. I can certainly open it up further.

[thump_rrr]

Yes I do realize that. I went back and looked at the cad file and it is currently set to 7.2, which you are right, probably wont work for 7mm now that you say. But it should definitely work for 6.5 (6.72). Maybe 7mm would have to be another die. That's kind of what I am trying to figure out. I can certainly open it up further.
As you can see 1 corner of the support isn’t playing nice. Hopefully it holds up because this is a 20hr print that is only 69% complete. Walls 6 50% fill.

Once this finishes I’ll switch over to PLA and try to get a completed die by tomorrow night.
At worst this weekend I should have one to test.
https://i.postimg.cc/gk9qwD4T/9-E0153-ED-75-A6-4946-8066-A920-FA6-EDCBF.jpg (https://postimg.cc/6T0GgCkr)

I have 101 projects started around the house and they’re all partially completed.
The video surveillance system only has 5/6 cameras up and running.
The new modules for the security system have arrived but I would need to replace all 16 end of line resistors which means removing mouldings from every door and window in the house.
My parts to extend the range of my wifi also came in today.

My engine build for the Mustang has stalled me cause my machinist nearly cut off 2 fingers last month

[SuperMoose]

Given how nice the other items came out..... Maybe something went crazy when it sliced..... Try and re-slice it

It's printing now with a brim. About 5 hours in and going strong. It should be close to done when I wake up...so hopefully it'll be all good.

[o416]

Yes 0.12 layer height.

Unfortunately McMaster-Carr isn’t taking any new Canadian clientele.
They will only do corporate accounts for their American clients who have operations in Canada.

You can buy a similar motor (Dayton) from Grainger Canada. That is what I did :)

[thump_rrr]

You can buy a similar motor (Dayton) from Grainger Canada. That is what I did :)

That's where I purchased mine.

[thump_rrr]

Bullet feeder die insert update.
I got up at 3:00am when my post base finished and switched over to PLA.
I printed the 7MM Die insert in PLA .12 20% as usual.
Besides the back looking a bit ugly where the joint is it is once again under dimensioned in the interior portions.
I am using a vernier caliper because I don't have a set of pin gauges.
My internal dimension are 6.8mm interior at the top, 7.6mm at the bottom
My external dimensions are 12.1mm below the neck and 16.35mm at the top.

I designed and printed a small washer in Tinkercad with the following dimensions.
14mm OD. 7.2MM ID. 2mm thickness

Actual print dimensions are 14mm OD. 6.8mm ID. 2.0mm Thickness.

I just found the following article and was wondering if it has any bearing on the print issues I am seeing?
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2042

I need to leave for work soon but what I did was open the die insert in Tinkercad. I opened the interior dimension to 7.4mm.
If my theory is correct I should come home to a print with an internal dimension of 7.0mm.
I also switched back to PETG since my settings are more dialed in.

Edit#2 Tonight when I get home I may print up a .45ACP bullet die to see if I get the same undersized results.


https://youtu.be/OQ6jiYK09rc

[stanford]

I know this has been mentioned before but its like 5k pages back somewhere. Tyler, what drawing program are you using again? I am trying to download it at work and just cant remember the name.

[RedlegEd]

Bullet feeder die insert update.
I got up at 3:00am when my post base finished and switched over to PLA.
I printed the 7MM Die insert in PLA .12 20% as usual.
Besides the back looking a bit ugly where the joint is it is once again under dimensioned in the interior portions.
I am using a vernier caliper because I don't have a set of pin gauges.
My internal dimension are 6.8mm interior at the top, 7.6mm at the bottom
My external dimensions are 12.1mm below the neck and 16.35mm at the top.

I designed and printed a small washer in Tinkercad with the following dimensions.
14mm OD. 7.2MM ID. 2mm thickness

Actual print dimensions are 14mm OD. 6.8mm ID. 2.0mm Thickness.

I just found the following article and was wondering if it has any bearing on the print issues I am seeing?
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2042

I need to leave for work soon but what I did was open the die insert in Tinkercad. I opened the interior dimension to 7.4mm.
If my theory is correct I should come home to a print with an internal dimension of 7.0mm.
I also switched back to PETG since my settings are more dialed in.

Edit#2 Tonight when I get home I may print up a .45ACP bullet die to see if I get the same undersized results.

Hi thump_rrr,
One thing you may want to check is your printer's calibration. Here's an excellent video that guides you through the process (it's also in the manual.) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGI) I bring it up as I was having issues with the Ball Bearing holes on the .45 bullet dropper and worked with TylerR the get that dialed in, but first I calibrated my printer and found it was out by enough to cause some of the issues. Also, I slice with Cura, and it has the same horizontal expansion feature as well as one for just holes. Here's video from Chep that explains how it's used. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jsBI3OeUJQ) Hope it helps.
Ed

[thump_rrr]

Hi thump_rrr,
One thing you may want to check is your printer's calibration. Here's an excellent video that guides you through the process (it's also in the manual.) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGI) I bring it up as I was having issues with the Ball Bearing holes on the .45 bullet dropper and worked with TylerR the get that dialed in, but first I calibrated my printer and found it was out by enough to cause some of the issues. Also, I slice with Cura, and it has the same horizontal expansion feature as well as one for just holes. Here's video from Chep that explains how it's used. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jsBI3OeUJQ) Hope it helps.
Ed

That's exactly the page I referenced a page or 2 back.
Everything has been gone through and all test prints come out accurately.
I'll check out the second video a little later when I have a minute.

[GWS]

Which bullets are you trying to feed? I assume the 6.5 you are collating? It should not be tight at all for those, as the opening is actually 7.1mm.
Are you printing at .12 layer height? If it is still tight try using some acetone with a cleaning jag and smooth out the opening.

Check the manual for the link to the mcmaster carr springs. They work 1000 times better then elastics or orings.

Can you provide a link to the springs you like? I didn't remember you moving to springs?

Also for our Canadian brother, I'm just wondering if you have access to Zoro. I think they have springs too, and everything else McMaster Carr has....usually cheaper.........I chose them for my Dayton Motor for that reason. The Dayon Motor is an exact fit for the McMaster-Carr, and you can get them at different RPM speeds......

[RedlegEd]

Can you provide a link to the springs you like? I didn't remember you moving to springs?

Also for our Canadian brother, I'm just wondering if you have access to Zoro. I think they have springs too, and everything else McMaster Carr has....usually cheaper.........I chose them for my Dayton Motor for that reason. The Dayon Motor is an exact fit for the McMaster-Carr, and you can get them at different RPM speeds......
Hi GWS,
Here is the link: https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K947/. It's also in the new manual on page 5.
Ed

[thump_rrr]

Can you provide a link to the springs you like? I didn't remember you moving to springs?

Also for our Canadian brother, I'm just wondering if you have access to Zoro. I think they have springs too, and everything else McMaster Carr has....usually cheaper.........I chose them for my Dayton Motor for that reason. The Dayon Motor is an exact fit for the McMaster-Carr, and you can get them at different RPM speeds......
Its in the manual.
This is the link.
https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K947/

I chose the 12rpm motor myself.

[SuperMoose]

Well it looks like I was able to get it to adhere and then...not finish the print because the darn nozzle got clogged towards the end...

https://i.imgur.com/feKw3a8.jpg

[o416]

Well it looks like I was able to get it to adhere and then...not finish the print because the darn nozzle got clogged towards the end...

https://i.imgur.com/feKw3a8.jpg

Lol! That happened to me yesterday for the first time.

[impala68]

speaking of dropper dies ... i just made a adaptor to go from the drop tube to the DAA dropper die.

once i confirm its good i'll upload it

[thump_rrr]

I failed to realize yesterday that not only did we hit page 200 but yesterday was the 3rd anniversary of this thread.

[djinnpb]

speaking of dropper dies ... i just made a adaptor to go from the drop tube to the DAA dropper die.

once i confirm its good i'll upload it

MY D*A*A dropper die fits fine with TylerR's existing drop tubes. No adapters required.

[Falconpunch]

That Maths god were with me for once. Both set screws came loose on the cog wheel that feeds the filament. I somehow got it almost exactly right when I cut the top in half.

Is the JGY motor better for cases? I can switch this one to cases since I have tougher motor on my current one.

https://i.imgur.com/1eA0iD4m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HDfS24Um.jpg

[thump_rrr]

Success and a partial failure.
The success is in printing it with a hole size of 7.4mm and getting 7.1mm when I was expecting 7.0mm.

Now the failure part is in the way the springs are to be attached.
According to the recommended McMaster-Carr springs https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K947/
They have a static length of 0.625” and a maximum extended length of 1.121”.

As per my own calculations I would need the spring to stretch to 2.225” which is double the maximum recommended length and almost 4 times the original length.

https://i.postimg.cc/sfPwHJFh/36074513-46-C7-43-AC-AE65-08720-F7918-FB.jpg (https://postimg.cc/XXJfpdYj)

https://i.postimg.cc/T1c0yTj9/A234-F2-F1-FB0-E-4-E68-A4-CC-3-DF19-E48-E9-B1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/tnYWwQMZ)

Maybe a longer die body is needed for these long bullets.
A good inch longer would be a good starting point.
My other thought was to fasten the lower end of the spring to the lock ring and use a longer spring which would reduce the stretch ratio.

https://i.postimg.cc/zB8RyKxs/B2-B947-F9-F31-C-4568-8-C7-C-3-AB6-BF4-D4-C3-E.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HJvLKcDz)

https://i.postimg.cc/j2jwXK0v/F92-C379-D-7-EB7-4-E52-8942-42-E7214-C82-B4.jpg (https://postimg.cc/PpB5Xgq8)

I will print up another lock ring with ears attached.

[GWS]

I finally finished my swivel mount for my hollow steel tube system....so now have a case feeder on the right side of the Tee and the Bullet feeder on the left side.....and got the second box mounted for the separate speed control. Now all I have to do is slide it in and out.
https://i.postimg.cc/k4b4CnSK/IMG-3826.jpg
Picture above shows a print I did to fit a hex coupler inside (and epoxied inside)
https://i.postimg.cc/XqjZ3Rk8/IMG_3827.jpg
Then I JB-Welded a 2" fender washer to one end and marked it for 30,45, and 60 degrees, then, below, the print just slides in the steel square tubing: (video demos the slide-in feature as well as the first attempt at hpbt's.)
https://i.postimg.cc/fLZyjGpN/IMG_3829.jpg

I tested a challenging bullet, Sierra's 165 grain HPBT......a double whammy. the hollow point is definitely harder to make play nice, especially with the big boat tail on the bottom. First attempt below with slide flush....did not work so well even at 45 degrees:


https://youtu.be/hioD9TUbojc

So I added a whole 1mm washer as a spacer (for those boattails) and tilted another 7.5 degrees:


https://youtu.be/JEJkY9nzMMQ

That's more like it! ;) Sure is sensitive.....has to be just so.....

postpost: I used the hole TylerR designed in the back of the slider, chamfered it to allow for a flat heat bolt, and screwed it in proud 1mm. Works great!

I plan to test 150's and other 168/165 designs so there maybe some more alterations ..... if not I will super glue the screw to keep it still. Actually, eventually will still do that....I'd rather print bullet specific plates for the bullets I use most often. Just makes sense. Amazing what owning a 3d printer can do for attitudes of more is better. We can afford convenience.....maybe the best idea is printing glue-on standoffs using the hole as a keeper. __[]__ shaped like that. What I don't want to do is have to keep a bunch of slider designs...and have to keep them straight.....I'm keeping less straight as I age in the head.

[thump_rrr]

Proof of concept to attach lower spring mount to the die lock nut.

https://youtu.be/ifnKQxmOzDo

[DKarstens]

Hello everyone,

First off this forum and manual are amazing. I have been following for a while after my dad got me a 3D printer partially to print a bullet collator for him. I started with the original Ammomike base but after finding this forum I am printing the larger base and parts.

My dad bought 2 used dayton 2L008 gearmotors off ebay, one 12v motor is inoperable and the other works intermittently. Does anyone know of a correct replacement 12v brushed motor? Looking for just the motor part as the gearbox works fine. If anyone has a lead on a replacement it would be greatly appreciated.

Also a huge thanks to everyone that has put in work towards this project, it is very well designed and thought out.

[kc10kevin]

Proof of concept to attach lower spring mount to the die lock nut.

https://youtu.be/ifnKQxmOzDo

Nice! I did something very similar. Testing now. Works great!! Small springs on each side.

277441
277442

[impala68]

MY D*A*A dropper die fits fine with TylerR's existing drop tubes. No adapters required.

hmm i only checked my 40S&W die and it didn't fit ... very possible the 9mm one does ... i'll check tomorrow

[TylerR]

Success and a partial failure.
The success is in printing it with a hole size of 7.4mm and getting 7.1mm when I was expecting 7.0mm.

Now the failure part is in the way the springs are to be attached.
According to the recommended McMaster-Carr springs https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K947/
They have a static length of 0.625” and a maximum extended length of 1.121”.

As per my own calculations I would need the spring to stretch to 2.225” which is double the maximum recommended length and almost 4 times the original length.

I will print up another lock ring with ears attached.

The die only needs to be inserted in to the press far enough to get the bullet to drop, but I understand with longer cases it still has to complete the cycle upwards. Curious, on your setup is the bottom of the die body flush with the press? Or does it extend down below? Also, which set of holes are you using for the ball bearings?

[TylerR]

Proof of concept to attach lower spring mount to the die lock nut.

I like it.

[kc10kevin]

hmm i only checked my 40S&W die and it didn't fit ... very possible the 9mm one does ... i'll check tomorrow

I use DAA BF dies. They fit right on top of them. May have to sand a bit but no adapter needed.