Making that Bullet Collator

[lablover]

270622

[TylerR]

270622

Nice setup. That would definitely alleviate the issue I mentioned. I need to work out something similar. I am actually using a spring for my case feeding too so I can't anchor off of that plastic tube.

Rendition #8 just went on the printer. Talk about wasted plastic. lol

[lablover]

Nice setup. That would definitely alleviate the issue I mentioned. I need to work out something similar. I am actually using a spring for my case feeding too so I can't anchor off of that plastic tube.

Rendition #8 just went on the printer. Talk about wasted plastic. lol

Idea, maybe make an arm that comes off the powder hopper. Use a piece of double sided tape to attach it to the powder measure. Just a thought. Maybe a ring type thing

[Andar]

Most of the way done making the spring adapter. Just need to plan a way to actually insert the spring into it which will take some thinking. Current progress here. (https://puu.sh/GJrr2/c625c7b00b.png) It's actually been faster than I thought. Thank you for making the design with nice mostly round numbers TylerR.

[TylerR]

Most of the way done making the spring adapter. Just need to plan a way to actually insert the spring into it which will take some thinking. Current progress here. (https://puu.sh/GJrr2/c625c7b00b.png) It's actually been faster than I thought. Thank you for making the design with nice mostly round numbers TylerR.

Good to hear Andar. Are you not threading the adapter for the spring to insert in to?

[Andar]

Good to hear Andar. Are you not threading the adapter for the spring to insert in to?

That was one of the routes I was going to take. The original part was just smooth, having gravity hold it in place and take advantage of the conical shape. It might even be able to be threaded in on its own like you would put a key on a key ring. I'll test that out tonight.

[AR-Bossman]

Are you guys not using rubber bands or springs to pull the two halves together?

[GWS]

Don't order something from Amazon late at night when your tired and stupid. I ordered some brake line spring protector Saturday nite and early Sunday morning I realized that tho the OD was perfect, the ID was too small for .22 bullets.....yeah....dumb! Tried to cancel, and even tho they hadn't shipped yet they wouldn't.....A holes.

So today I went to Ace Hardware and bought two short 6" springs that were perfect for my drop tube......so what do you do with two? They each screwed into the top of the feeder die and the bottom of the proximity switch, perfectly. Then I just made a "view port" in between. ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/cCjvMVRf/IMG-3633.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Rhq3tMHM/IMG-3630.jpg

Above: View port just required 3 short pieces of thinline rigid tubing, two 3/8 OD, and one 5/16 OD. Just applied a single drop of slow set super glue about a 1/4" from each end of the 5/16, and pushed/rotated the 3/8 tubes half way on the smaller center tube. It set in about 30 seconds, and I was ready to roll.

https://i.postimg.cc/B6mLt8tY/IMG-3631.jpg

Springs cost me $2 each. Anybody need some brake line protector......I don't think I will ever reload 17 caliber. [smilie=b:

[GWS]

Andar, what I've ended up doing with all my springs is just make the hole a tad smaller than the spring, with threads, but I don't worry about special thread design anymore. I found that if you screw on the tubing the same direction as the spring turns.....making the spring tighter in diameter it just slips on.....and I can push it in a long ways that way. Then when you let it go it unwinds, tightening against the threads, which just act as friction as opposed to being against slick smooth insides.

The .223 ones in my last post, I didn't even have threads, but at that size I just ran a 5/16 X24 die in each end carefully to make them rough inside....then just pushed my Ace Hardware springs in as described above. They won't come out unless I turn them tight and pull hard. Works for me....

[TylerR]

Are you guys not using rubber bands or springs to pull the two halves together?

After testing without I decided they were useful, so now I am. Using rubber o-rings.

[Andar]

GWS, I'd try that but the springs I bought are conical on one end as they're meant to go over or inside pipes to help bend them without kinking as seen here (https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/5-pc-spring-tube-bender-set/A-p8609638e). Like a spring door stopper. Gravity holds the spring in place perfectly and it won't come out if you tug on it unless you do it hard enough to deform the shape.

Turns out I won't have to make threads, as I can just spin it into place. I'll print out the part tomorrow to see how it works.

[j_dude77]

Does anybody know which slide plate can be used to flip bullets nose down on the original AmmoMike design? I tried to scaled down Tyler's and it doesn't work so well :/

Also, which motor did folks settle on for Tyler's larger design?

I have all the ammomike files. The last set he had on thingiverse. Hit me up and I can get you the nose down files.

[djinnpb]

After testing without I decided they were useful, so now I am. Using rubber o-rings.

I've got rubber bands on one and an oring on another. I even use a rubber band on my DAA 30 cal one seems way more reliable that way.

Will be welding up a mount (still figuring the best way) and using the mount you designed TylerR. Question though, any issue with not having the tilting ability side to side? My AM one I use the spines on the X and Y so I can adjust either way. Of course it may be overkill and not needed, especially with the wider slide area.

Also, I have printed all the slides, quite the collection of those and great job with the side labels. Very cool. Can't wait to spin this one up.

[TylerR]

I've got rubber bands on one and an oring on another. I even use a rubber band on my DAA 30 cal one seems way more reliable that way.

Will be welding up a mount (still figuring the best way) and using the mount you designed TylerR. Question though, any issue with not having the tilting ability side to side? My AM one I use the spines on the X and Y so I can adjust either way. Of course it may be overkill and not needed, especially with the wider slide area.

Also, I have printed all the slides, quite the collection of those and great job with the side labels. Very cool. Can't wait to spin this one up.

My mount allows you to rotate side to side. I am not sure why you need to tilt the feeder sideways. Can you explain that?

[TylerR]

Just posted v1.0.9

- Collator generator v2.0.7 with changes to ridges with new parameters.
- All stock bullet collator plates have been generated with ridges and no slides.
- Minor changes to drop tubes for better reliability.
- Added 45acp feed die. Uses one 4mm ball bearing. 4 different bullet heights spaced 1mm apart. Feedback welcome.
- Added bullet compatibility chart. I am looking for feedback on this one so we can make it more comprehensive.

[lablover]

Just posted v1.0.9

- Collator generator v2.0.7 with changes to ridges with new parameters.
- All stock bullet collator plates have been generated with ridges and no slides.
- Minor changes to drop tubes for better reliability.
- Added 45acp feed die. Uses one 4mm ball bearing. 4 different bullet heights spaced 1mm apart. Feedback welcome.
- Added bullet compatibility chart. I am looking for feedback on this one so we can make it more comprehensive.

Thanks Tyler, appreciate all your hard work. Compatibility charts is a brilliant idea! do we provide you with the info to populate it for all to see? I love it!

I see both my printers being very busy the next few days.

Joe

[GWS]

GWS, I'd try that but the springs I bought are conical on one end as they're meant to go over or inside pipes to help bend them without kinking as seen here (https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/5-pc-spring-tube-bender-set/A-p8609638e). Like a spring door stopper. Gravity holds the spring in place perfectly and it won't come out if you tug on it unless you do it hard enough to deform the shape.

Turns out I won't have to make threads, as I can just spin it into place. I'll print out the part tomorrow to see how it works.

I've seen those benders.....I was going to get around to checking them out at an autosupply store but haven't. The only thing that bothered me is... if they are strong enough to bend brake lines and such, are they too stiff, too big wirewise for down tubes......but I wouldn't know never having seen them. And I suppose some are cheaper and lighter than others......maybe the lighter the better?

As for the coned end, if I had one I was just planning to grind it off......;) But what do I know?:)


Just posted v1.0.9
...
- All stock bullet collator plates have been generated with ridges and no slides.
...

I hope that turns out to be the best move for the project.......my test with .223 isn't a big enough sample to be sure if that's the best way for everything......assuming you and others have data or experience too with the bigger calibers? I don't want to get lynched....;)

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler, appreciate all your hard work. Compatibility charts is a brilliant idea! do we provide you with the info to populate it for all to see? I love it!

I see both my printers being very busy the next few days.

Joe

Yes, if people report back that they had success with a particular bullet and slide plate, including specific casting molds, I will add it to the chart. There are some things that I could assume, for instance I am fairly sure the #4 plate will probably work with most all 9mm bullets, I would prefer to only add ones that have been positively tested. Where it would really shine is some of these more challenging bullet designs, hollow points, bevel bases, boat tails, etc.....

[TylerR]

I hope that turns out to be the best move for the project.......my test with .223 isn't a big enough sample to be sure if that's the best way for everything......assuming you and others have data or experience too with the bigger calibers? I don't want to get lynched....;)

Haha. I hear ya man! I am going to be printing the plates over the next couple of days and will do my testing. I will definitely be testing 9mm, 45acp, 40sw and 44mag. Lablover can maybe provide some feedback as well.
That being said, I think the logic behind the change is very solid, and of course people have the option to generate their own plates if they are more comfortable with the slides.

[GWS]

With my first printed bullet feeder now excelling at doing .223 for my Pro Chucker 7, it's finally time to print out the big base and see if it will collate .223 and .308 cases for the same Press. That means joining the genuine TylerR big base club. Now I need to go to back pages and see what's the best way to do those calibers. Any tips on the most important posts and prints?

I also need to make a bullet plate for the .30 caliber rifle, but that will be project #3. So much to do so little time.

It's helps that I'm already good in the pistol bullet collating department with my modified pre-3d-printed flippered Hornady. I want to see you guys match that beginner's luck rendition and print .45,.357,.40, 9mm with one plate! Its easier than you think if you drop bullets to the bottom of the base before you drop them through the down tube hole.......that's the trick.

I never showed you guys that mod in Ammo Mike's base for the .223/.45 nose down collator either .... I can take it apart tomorrow and take some more pictures, if anyone's interested......or I can just keep it a secret I guess...;)

This is going to be a busiest winter I've had in years............sounds great to me.......even if I don't make a dime doing it.......

BTW......Everybody VOTE tomorrow if you haven't already! That's an order! We're out of time.....

[TylerR]

With my first printed bullet feeder now excelling at doing .223 for my Pro Chucker 7, it's finally time to print out the big base and see if it will collate .223 and .308 cases for the same Press. That means joining the genuine TylerR big base club. Now I need to go to back pages and see what's the best way to do those calibers. Any tips on the most important posts and prints?

This will be a new test for the collator. .223 cases I am sure will be no problem. It will be interesting to see how it handles the large .308 cases.


It's helps that I'm already good in the pistol bullet collating department with my modified pre-3d-printed flippered Hornady. I want to see you guys match that beginner's luck rendition and print .45,.357,.40, 9mm with one plate! Its easier than you think if you drop bullets to the bottom of the base before you drop them through the down tube hole.......that's the trick.

If I am understanding you correctly, this is where there is basically a ramp down leading up to the drop hole. Is that right? I had put some thought in to that one. I just don't know what un-intended consequences it could have on everything else.


I never showed you guys that mod in Ammo Mike's base for the .223/.45 nose down collator either .... I can take it apart tomorrow and take some more pictures, if anyone's interested......or I can just keep it a secret I guess...;)

You know me, I am always interested in new concepts...


This is going to be a busiest winter I've had in years............sounds great to me.......even if I don't make a dime doing it.......

BTW......Everybody VOTE tomorrow if you haven't already! That's an order! We're out of time.....

Absolutely!!!!

[Rage 01]

I have been doing some testing with the design, and there are some issues that come in to play in the "real world". I found that when its just the dropper die with the drop tube, everything functions perfectly. Once you connect the spring however it imparts some sideways loading on the dies, which can cause it to bind up and not return to the down position. So o-rings / springs / more weight do seem necessary to help prevent that.

I also realize that on the 45 die using two 4mm bearings is not an option. There is just not enough clearance. One bearing does work, but I may redesign it around 3.5mm bearings. As far as the steel ball bearings breaking down the plastic, I can only see that maybe becoming an issue after many thousands of rounds, if ever.

That is why I used the 3.15 mm or 3.00mm bearing on the 40 S&W. I found the side wall was too thin for my liking.
I don't think you are going to get much out of a 3.5mm in stead of a 4.00. I would go a little smaller.

[TylerR]

I just tested the new ridge only large pistol plate on 230gn RN .45acp boolits and it worked flawlessly. Just started the print on the small pistol plate to test 9mm.

[TylerR]

That is why I used the 3.15 mm or 3.00mm bearing on the 40 S&W. I found the side wall was too thin for my liking.
I don't think you are going to get much out of a 3.5mm in stead of a 4.00. I would go a little smaller.

I might still just stick with the single 4mm in the .45 die. It is working very well for me so far.

[lablover]

I might still just stick with the single 4mm in the .45 die. It is working very well for me so far.

That’s great news. Mine will be printing shortly. I have some very finicky .45 cast bullets I want to try. 160gr swc button nose Hitek coated. Honestly I don’t expect to have much luck. At least I never did with AM version and a DAA die. These bullets are probably as short as they are round. Lol

[TylerR]

That’s great news. Mine will be printing shortly. I have some very finicky .45 cast bullets I want to try. 160gr swc button nose Hitek coated. Honestly I don’t expect to have much luck. At least I never did with AM version and a DAA die. These bullets are probably as short as they are round. Lol

After putting some more thought in to it, I believe I have figured out where to position the ball bearing. In my design there are 4 holes. Pick a hole that is just slightly lower then the height of your bullet.
Also, I used some acetone to smooth out the portion of the insert that slides in the the threaded body, just to help reduce the friction a little bit. And don't forget to use a 4mm nozzle and higher quality print settings. I used a 1.2 layer height and it comes out very nice.

Lablover, how tall are the bullets exactly? I can always add another lower bearing hole. The lowest hole right now is 11mm. So as long as the bullet is longer then that it should work.

[GWS]

I just tested the new ridge only large pistol plate on 230gn RN .45acp boolits and it worked flawlessly. Just started the print on the small pistol plate to test 9mm.

Just for fun, try putting 9mm in using the new .45 plate and see what happens.....I'm curious. You may or may not have to adjust the slider more......I'm guessing not, since the thing is tilted and the bullets are still going to ride on the lower side of the hole.

Little square bullets may not do well in the bigger hole, but then I never use such things.

[TylerR]

Just for fun, try putting 9mm in using the new .45 plate and see what happens.....I'm curious. You may or may not have to adjust the slider more......I'm guessing not, since the thing is tilted and the bullets are still going to ride on the lower side of the hole.

I just tried it and it worked fine. lol. I didn't change the slide plate or anything. It's a little sloppy when hitting the ramp to flip because there is so much play, but it works. This was tested using my 147gn bevel based 9mm boolits.

[GWS]

See what I mean?

Look at my pre-3Dprinter version (pre-powered in testing).......see those big holes?....see those little 9mm bullets?

https://vimeo.com/323636254

That is a very mediocre Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder.......ressurrected....;)

This one has troughs, because I used a scroll saw on the original plate....but they don't go to the center.....so there's yet another possibility....

[lablover]

After putting some more thought in to it, I believe I have figured out where to position the ball bearing. In my design there are 4 holes. Pick a hole that is just slightly lower then the height of your bullet.
Also, I used some acetone to smooth out the portion of the insert that slides in the the threaded body, just to help reduce the friction a little bit. And don't forget to use a 4mm nozzle and higher quality print settings. I used a 1.2 layer height and it comes out very nice.

Lablover, how tall are the bullets exactly? I can always add another lower bearing hole. The lowest hole right now is 11mm. So as long as the bullet is longer then that it should work.

12.89mm
I dont think the die is going to be the problem, I have to figure a way with the collator plates to stop the bullets from wedging sideways and then getting jammed into the wall of the bowl. Just happened and locked the collator up but good. The pin in the shaft ended up just tearing thru the plate. Time for a new plate. I'll get a picture up in a bit of the jam. Feeder die is printing now at fine setting. I have to do a new collator plate and I'm going to try it on fine setting or try the variable layer height in Prusa.

270655

[GWS]

Gee lablover.......maybe I don't want to use the powerful Dayton Motor on my next one. I don't like to print quite THAT much!
Where does it hang exactly.....picture show it? Is it when the flipper catches the over turned one?

My little motor just stops and waits for me to run over an turn it off, when things jamb.

[TylerR]

12.89mm
I dont think the die is going to be the problem, I have to figure a way with the collator plates to stop the bullets from wedging sideways and then getting jammed into the wall of the bowl. Just happened and locked the collator up but good. The pin in the shaft ended up just tearing thru the plate. Time for a new plate. I'll get a picture up in a bit of the jam. Feeder die is printing now at fine setting. I have to do a new collator plate and I'm going to try it on fine setting or try the variable layer height in Prusa.

270655

Couple thoughts. You could gain .5mm by setting the plate diameter to 180mm instead of 179.5. Also, what are you using for your caliber setting? I would run it as close as possible to the actual bullet diameter. 10.5mm would give you 11.7 mm with the added 1.2mm. That is a pretty tight tolerance for 11.46mm bullet.

[TylerR]

Gee lablover.......maybe I don't want to use the powerful Dayton Motor on my next one. I don't like to print quite THAT much!
Where does it hang exactly.....picture show it? Is it when the flipper catches the over turned one?

My little motor just stops and waits for me to run over an turn it off, when things jamb.

That is what happens for me to with the MBF motor. I have had dozens of jams and never had a serious issue.

[GWS]

What about just wrapping electrical tape around the base where the wheel goes to close it up first.....just to see if sucking up the diameter works. Then if it does do what TylerR suggests. Maybe the plate holes need to be smaller a little....those are the little square things I was just talking about, aren't they?

Tyler, I'm still wondering if there's a amperage turn off on some of these motors.....or they'd hum and burn out.

I think I will test my Dayton before I commit to use it.....is or is there not an amperage turn off.....

[lablover]

I guess thats the good thing about the motor..Id rather have it ruin a plate than mess up the motor. I'm going to try all suggestions above. Honestly as well I'm not completly sold on that bullet and may just stick with the H&G 68 200 gr SWC. Now those seem to feed just dandy thru the feeder.

[lablover]

Gee lablover.......maybe I don't want to use the powerful Dayton Motor on my next one. I don't like to print quite THAT much!
Where does it hang exactly.....picture show it? Is it when the flipper catches the over turned one?

My little motor just stops and waits for me to run over an turn it off, when things jamb.

It is in the picture, the one that is laying sideways. Never made it to the top and got sideways as I was dumping the bullets in.

[lablover]

Couple thoughts. You could gain .5mm by setting the plate diameter to 180mm instead of 179.5. Also, what are you using for your caliber setting? I would run it as close as possible to the actual bullet diameter. 10.5mm would give you 11.7 mm with the added 1.2mm. That is a pretty tight tolerance for 11.46mm bullet.

The 45 plate is the original size you made. Not sure what size it was. I'll revisit the sizes when i go to print another one. I wish I could figure out how to answer each post with quotes in one response...LMAO

[GWS]

I guess thats the good thing about the motor..Id rather have it ruin a plate than mess up the motor. I'm going to try all suggestions above. Honestly as well I'm not completly sold on that bullet and may just stick with the H&G 68 200 gr SWC. Now those seem to feed just dandy thru the feeder.

That's just it......I've had plenty of booboos that bind the motor.....that's what testing is.... You'd think that little motor would burn ...... but it never does.....and I've never heard it hum either.....or is that my dim almost 71 year-old ears? ;)

Tyler? Humming noticed on your big motor?

[lablover]

Another issue might be that plate was done before I figured the shaft diameter issue so that may add to the Boo Boos. I don't mind printing plates they just take forever

[GWS]

Ha! You must be a lot younger than me......I mind, I don't have forever left.....:)


The 45 plate is the original size you made. Not sure what size it was. I'll revisit the sizes when i go to print another one. I wish I could figure out how to answer each post with quotes in one response...LMAO

1. click "reply with Quote"
2. Highlight the quote in the reply box and click [control]X, which will erase it and put it in Paste...
3. Go to your last post, and click "edit"
4. Paste what was in the reply box.

Try it.

[TylerR]

The 45 plate is the original size you made. Not sure what size it was. I'll revisit the sizes when i go to print another one. I wish I could figure out how to answer each post with quotes in one response...LMAO

Ok. If thats the case I would leave it at the stock 179.5mm dia but change the caliber to 10.5-10.6. The default setting for the large pistol plate is 11.5mm. So at 10.5mm you are gaining a full 1mm of tolerance. Just have to make sure its not so tight the bullets don't go in the hole at all.

[TylerR]

That's just it......I've had plenty of booboos that bind the motor.....that's what testing is.... You'd think that little motor would burn ...... but it never does.....and I've never heard it hum either.....or is that my dim almost 71 year-old ears? ;)

Tyler? Humming noticed on your big motor?

No noticeable humming with my motor.

[GWS]

Then there may be a high amperage shut off in the motor electronics, that Labover's doesn't have. If I was DAA I'd definately want that to prevent every other customer from burning out their motors or destroying their bullet feeder plates.

I'm thinking one can buy such a circuit separately.....maybe I'll research that....

[lablover]

Then there may be a high amperage shut off in the motor electronics, that Labover's doesn't have. If I was DAA I'd definately want that to prevent every other customer from burning out their motors or destroying their bullet feeder plates.

I'm thinking one can buy such a circuit separately.....maybe I'll research that....

Could be..I know that bad boy just rips right thru the plate! Also printing at 2 walls helps in the destruction...hahaha. I think if I get a plate that’s dialed in perfect I may update to more walls etc..not sure.

I’m 57 and rode hard and put up wet ! The Marine Corps took its toll for sure. Ya don’t realize it until you get older. I’ll have to try that posting with quotes thing when I can actually sit in front of a real keyboard for more than 5 minutes

[lablover]

Ok. If thats the case I would leave it at the stock 179.5mm dia but change the caliber to 10.5-10.6. The default setting for the large pistol plate is 11.5mm. So at 10.5mm you are gaining a full 1mm of tolerance. Just have to make sure its not so tight the bullets don't go in the hole at all.

I’ll give that a try. Another thing that frustrates me is my printers must need a tune up. If I say print a hole at say 5mm it always comes out a little bit off. Say 5.2 mm etc. I know how to tune it but for some mental reason I don’t do it. Printer is never idle enough to do it. Hahahaha

[TylerR]

I’ll give that a try. Another thing that frustrates me is my printers must need a tune up. If I say print a hole at say 5mm it always comes out a little bit off. Say 5.2 mm etc. I know how to tune it but for some mental reason I don’t do it. Printer is never idle enough to do it. Hahahaha

It's kind of a pain, but what you could do is start the print and let it print a layer or two and then measure it with you calipers, or just put a bullet in there to see if its going to work.

[lablover]

It's kind of a pain, but what you could do is start the print and let it print a layer or two and then measure it with you calipers, or just put a bullet in there to see if its going to work.

I'm all over that this time around

[lablover]

For anyone interested, here is a screen shot of what prusa slicer does when you use the variable layer height. Pretty slick for sure. I’ve used it for smaller items to test and it works pretty well. On this collator plate you can see the layer height changes towards the top of the print. I had it change layers towards the top where the bevels for the bullets are to make it cleaner. Most of the print is done at .2 layer height then it goes into super fine mode for where I choose. Cuts print times down quite a bit. This one says 9 hours as opposed to 11 in cura.

I can see this as a benefit for some of the things we print. I could see the collater bowl staring at fine then go to .2 for the walls. Anywho, just thinking out loud

I’ll report back when it’s done tonight or tomorrow morning.

270678

[TylerR]

Going on the printer next....

270679

[lablover]

Going on the printer next....

270679

woooohooooo

are you going to do one in 223?

[TylerR]

woooohooooo

are you going to do one in 223?

Yes, plan for right now is .45, 9mm, .223, .308. The more I do the easier it should get.

[lablover]

Yes, plan for right now is .45, 9mm, .223, .308. The more I do the easier it should get.

Most excellent

[GWS]

Question TylerR......

What settings (layer height, overlap, etc. ) are you using in Cura when you are printing threads like that....and is there a lot of cleanup?

[TylerR]

Question TylerR......

What settings (layer height, overlap, etc. ) are you using in Cura when you are printing threads like that....and is there a lot of cleanup?

Basically the default "Super Quality" setting, with the plate adhesion turned off. Absolutely no cleanup at all.

[GWS]

So IOW's secret settings? I couldn't even figure out how to print anything in Cura so I downloaded IdeaMaker. Sorta like Apple computer doesn't speak my language either.....and I sure as hell can't think like Apple OS engineers....are they even from this planet?:cry:

I tried to "add a printer" and all it allows is their brand......how do you get past that?

[TylerR]

So IOW's secret settings?

You lost me on this one :) Hope this helps:

270680

[TylerR]

I tried to "add a printer" and all it allows is their brand......how do you get past that?

On my version you go to Preferences - Configure Cura - Printers. Hit the Add button, and in the drop down box you can select pretty much any printer out there.

[lablover]

The more I use Prusa slicer the more I like it. And no you don’t need a Prusa printer

[GWS]

I have version 4.6 and I couldn't get to any of that. So I downloaded the latest just now, and there it was.....except that I couldn't find a CR-10 V2, so I picked CR-10 pro?

Finally! I see how to do a few things.....

Heck, I'm so new at this that I didn't even know you could print less than .2 layer height! No wonder my threads and the funnel are so stupid rough.

And Prusa....I'll look at that too. Bet I can set mine that fine too.....just didn't know to do that. That ought to double printing time.....:groner:

So is Prusa the only one with variable layer heights for different parts of the print?

[Andar]

270687
Looking better. Printed it and it fits in the adapter perfectly. Will test the spring later tonight.

[TylerR]

Looking better. Printed it and it fits in the adapter perfectly. Will test the spring later tonight.

Looks great to me.

[TylerR]

9mm plate worked flawlessly as well. No hangers on bullets when approaching the top like i get with the troughs / slides. I think I am liking the #5 plate with the bevel bases on this boolit over the #4.

[GWS]

For anyone interested, here is a screen shot of what prusa slicer does when you use the variable layer height. Pretty slick for sure. I’ve used it for smaller items to test and it works pretty well. On this collator plate you can see the layer height changes towards the top of the print. I had it change layers towards the top where the bevels for the bullets are to make it cleaner. Most of the print is done at .2 layer height then it goes into super fine mode for where I choose. Cuts print times down quite a bit. This one says 9 hours as opposed to 11 in cura.

I can see this as a benefit for some of the things we print. I could see the collater bowl staring at fine then go to .2 for the walls. Anywho, just thinking out loud

I’ll report back when it’s done tonight or tomorrow morning.

270678


That's a pretty cool feature. I could have used that more than once. How do you command it's exact location? So many layers up for so many layers?

I tried Cura tonight and it screwed up my printer settings so bad it started printing a hairball and I had to redo the z-offset and start over.....no clue what I did. I told you Cura and I speak different languages.:veryconfu I'm currently printing another .223 downtube insert with IdeaMaker to test the resetup....and am doing it at .12 instead of .2 layer height.....REAL curious to see what the difference may be.

I'll have to look at Prusa closer.....I like that feature you told us about. If the real print is as smooth as the rendition it'll be awesome!


9mm plate worked flawlessly as well. No hangers on bullets when approaching the top like i get with the troughs / slides. I think I am liking the #5 plate with the bevel bases on this boolit over the #4.

Tyler! What's the difference between the #5 vs the #4? Just no troughs?

https://i.postimg.cc/05wZCdDv/IMG-3635.jpg
Above is a picture of the drop area of my only printed (small) AM base. I just dremeled out top and fill layers and even into the green outlet......Tyler assumed a ramp down....only the green outlet is ramped toward the hole. Remember this was first used for .45 caliber. As you saw in the .223 video, those little bullets didn't seem to mind....they just flew out of there no problem. BUT........my funneled downtube insert for .223 was too rough in the funnel and cause a backup. That's why I had to sand and polish that area to handle the speed.

What I'm wondering right now is how much difference the .12 layer setting will make in the funnel area.....THAT's why I'm printing one at the .12 layer height.....we shall soon see. ;)

[TylerR]

What's the difference between the #5 vs the #4? Just no troughs?

I am talking about the slide plate. Not the collator plate.

[GWS]

So now you know......I'm a crappy mind reader.

Same question though.

270691

[TylerR]

So now you know......I'm a crappy mind reader.

Same question though.

270691

This is what I posted a number of pages back when I made these plates.

OK here we go. I just posted bullet nose up slides #1-#10. These basically run from .22 cal to .50 cal, with 1mm increments. Here are the match ups I have already done.

.223 - #2
.308 - #4
9mm - #5
45acp - #7


So using .45acp as an example, the #7 plate is right in the middle (2.25mm ridge). #8 would give you 1mm less ridge, #6 1mm more ridge. On my large pistol plate I measure about 1.25mm of ridge with the #8. So those 45 semi wad cutters would probably be better with the #8. Running bevel bases? Might want to go with the #6. If your running a bevel based semi wad cutter your SOL.

Its posted. Please play around with them and see what you think.

[lablover]

That's a pretty cool feature. I could have used that more than once. How do you command it's exact location? So many layers up for so many layers?

I tried Cura tonight and it screwed up my printer settings so bad it started printing a hairball and I had to redo the z-offset and start over.....no clue what I did. I told you Cura and I speak different languages.:veryconfu I'm currently printing another .223 downtube insert with IdeaMaker to test the resetup....and am doing it at .12 instead of .2 layer height.....REAL curious to see what the difference may be.

I'll have to look at Prusa closer.....I like that feature you told us about. If the real print is as smooth as the rendition it'll be awesome!



Tyler! What's the difference between the #5 vs the #4? Just no troughs?

https://i.postimg.cc/05wZCdDv/IMG-3635.jpg
Above is a picture of the drop area of my only printed (small) AM base. I just dremeled out top and fill layers and even into the green outlet......Tyler assumed a ramp down....only the green outlet is ramped toward the hole. Remember this was first used for .45 caliber. As you saw in the .223 video, those little bullets didn't seem to mind....they just flew out of there no problem. BUT........my funneled downtube insert for .223 was too rough in the funnel and cause a backup. That's why I had to sand and polish that area to handle the speed.

What I'm wondering right now is how much difference the .12 layer setting will make in the funnel area.....THAT's why I'm printing one at the .12 layer height.....we shall soon see. ;)


Print should be done in about 30 min. I’ll report in the morning with pics. The feature is pretty easy to use. Use your mouse and just highlight the areas where you want a finer print on a horizontal level. YouTube has a few real good videos on how to use it. I’m still pretty new to using the slicer and am learning more every time I use it.

I will say the finer layer height.12 makes a huge difference on my prints. I plan on doing another collater bowl and make the lower layers .12 and once it get past the funnel area go back to .2 or even coarser. Actually, I’ll go .12 do the point the highest collator plate will sit then go more coarse. Any little bit where things spin and might touch each other in my mind needs to be the finest print setting...prusa can do that

[GWS]

This is what I posted a number of pages back when I made these plates.

OK here we go. I just posted bullet nose up slides #1-#10. These basically run from .22 cal to .50 cal, with 1mm increments. Here are the match ups I have already done.

.223 - #2
.308 - #4
9mm - #5
45acp - #7

So using .45acp as an example, the #7 plate is right in the middle (2.25mm ridge). #8 would give you 1mm less ridge, #6 1mm more ridge. On my large pistol plate I measure about 1.25mm of ridge with the #8. So those 45 semi wad cutters would probably be better with the #8. Running bevel bases? Might want to go with the #6. If your running a bevel based semi wad cutter your SOL.

Its posted. Please play around with them and see what you think.

So the profile is the same, just the in/out position changes 1mm at a time?.....I think I see. Is this so you don't have to pull the slider out like A.M.'s in my picture last post? In the picture it's adjusted right for .223...and it's out more than a 1/4". Also it's a straight line. Obviously you put in a lot of thought on the shape of yours. I noticed with A.M.'s, there is only a very tiny sweet spot that works well....that's why I marked the exact position with a Dremel cut.


Looking forward to printing out your large model. Whether it will work for .308 brass or not. I don't have a feel for that yet....maybe it won't. If not I'll have to print out a Dillon style copy......if I live that long to figure it all out.;) Your big base has plenty of jobs to do besides that.

"Its posted. Please play around with them and see what you think." That message will even apply to me in a week or so.....just got to get the base printed first. Can't wait.....:)

[lablover]

I see a big difference. I started the layer change right at the bevels on top. I like the feature and see a use for our print types. But then again.....too early to call...bwahahahahahahaa. I had to say it

270702

[TylerR]

So the profile is the same, just the in/out position changes 1mm at a time?.....I think I see. Is this so you don't have to pull the slider out like A.M.'s in my picture last post? In the picture it's adjusted right for .223...and it's out more than a 1/4". Also it's a straight line. Obviously you put in a lot of thought on the shape of yours. I noticed with A.M.'s, there is only a very tiny sweet spot that works well....that's why I marked the exact position with a Dremel cut.

Yes, that is all correct. Pick the correct slide plate and insert it in all the way and lock it in place. No guess work.

[lablover]

Tyler, I have a question. Did you modify the drop tubes to fit the bullet feeder die? I finished my .45 die and the drop tube will not fit on the die. Unless I messed something up? My drop tube is your original from several weeks back. thanks buddy

Joe

[TylerR]

Tyler, I have a question. Did you modify the drop tubes to fit the bullet feeder die? I finished my .45 die and the drop tube will not fit on the die. Unless I messed something up? My drop tube is your original from several weeks back. thanks buddy

Joe

No changes there. Do you own any DAA feed dies? The drop tube should fit on that, and my 45 feed die is the same. How far off are we talking here? Not that it matters but I assume you are using the 12mm drop tube?

also, make sure there is no lip on the top edge of the .45 die or on the inside bottom edge of the drop tube.

[lablover]

No changes there. Do you own any DAA feed dies? The drop tube should fit on that, and my 45 feed die is the same. How far off are we talking here? Not that it matters but I assume you are using the 12mm drop tube?

also, make sure there is no lip on the top edge of the .45 die or on the inside bottom edge of the drop tube.

I'm using the 13mm drop tube. A little sanding will fix it in a hurry. Time for printer maintenance. ha

[TylerR]

I'm using the 13mm drop tube. A little sanding will fix it in a hurry. Time for printer maintenance. ha

You really should be using the 12mm drop tube. The 13mm tube is going to be slightly larger compared to the feed die, so there will be a slight lip where the two interface. Bullets can get caught on that lip. I really created the 13mm for 45 brass and bullet sizing of my powder coated boolits, which can get hung up in the 12mm at times.

I am getting close on my 9mm feed die, and should have it posted today or tomorrow.

[lablover]

You really should be using the 12mm drop tube. The 13mm tube is going to be slightly larger compared to the feed die, so there will be a slight lip where the two interface. Bullets can get caught on that lip.

Will do, I may have to do some adjustments as my 200 gr swc don’t want to drop out of the die. I’ll get it figured out. Might even be the lube grove catching on the bearing on the way out. These are coated bullets so lube groove is empty. Late night last night so I gave up. Will revisit later. Both pieces slide pretty good but once the bearing is in place not so much.

[TylerR]

Will do, I may have to do some adjustments as my 200 gr swc don’t want to drop out of the die. I’ll get it figured out. Might even be the lube grove catching on the bearing on the way out. These are coated bullets so lube groove is empty. Late night last night so I gave up. Will revisit later. Both pieces slide pretty good but once the bearing is in place not so much.

Have these been sized? What diameter are they? My testing was done with a 230gn RN powder coated with a lube groove sized to .452

[lablover]

Have these been sized? What diameter are they? My testing was done with a 230gn RN powder coated with a lube groove sized to .452

Yup sized .452
Also the inside of my inside piece seems a little rough inside. I may have set up the printer wrong. And maybe the bearing hole is a little rough. I’ll give it a good look in a bit

[TylerR]

Yup sized .452
Also the inside of my inside piece seems a little rough inside. I may have set up the printer wrong. And maybe the bearing hole is a little rough. I’ll give it a good look in a bit

You can try cleaning up with sandpaper and acetone to smooth it out. Especially the groove inside the die body that allows the bearing to retract. And you are using one 4mm bearing right?

[lablover]

You can try cleaning up with sandpaper and acetone to smooth it out. Especially the groove inside the die body that allows the bearing to retract. And you are using one 4mm bearing right?

Yes sir. Did a little clean up and it’s working pretty good now. I took some dry neck lube and coated the inner tube and that slicked things up in a hurry.
I’m curious as how you use the acetone. I used a tiny bit on a rag and things got gummy fast. I rinsed it off and used some fine grit to get it back to normal. I also have it working without springs or rubber washers. Pretty slick

I need to learn more about prusa before doing fine prints. Something is not set right or I missed something on this print. Printing a 12mm drop tube now off cura

[TylerR]

Yes sir. Did a little clean up and it’s working pretty good now. I took some dry neck lube and coated the inner tube and that slicked things up in a hurry.
I’m curious as how you use the acetone. I used a tiny bit on a rag and things got gummy fast. I rinsed it off and used some fine grit to get it back to normal. I also have it working without springs or rubber washers. Pretty slick

I need to learn more about prusa before doing fine prints. Something is not set right or I missed something on this print. Printing a 12mm drop tube now off cura

I just put a little on paper towel or a cotton ball, and rub down the part. It gets rid of the printer lines and creates a smooth surface. It will get gummy as the plastic melts slightly but then hardens right back up in a minute or two. Learned that from my ABS days, but works just as well on PLA.

[lablover]

I just put a little on paper towel or a cotton ball, and rub down the part. It gets rid of the printer lines and creates a smooth surface. It will get gummy as the plastic melts slightly but then hardens right back up in a minute or two. Learned that from my ABS days, but works just as well on PLA.

Well alright then! Learned something new. Thanks a bunch

I think I need a new nozzle, my prints are looking sad today

[GWS]

I just put a little on paper towel or a cotton ball, and rub down the part. It gets rid of the printer lines and creates a smooth surface. It will get gummy as the plastic melts slightly but then hardens right back up in a minute or two. Learned that from my ABS days, but works just as well on PLA.

Acetone, huh!......I woulda thought it would ruin the surface......really good to know!! On my way to buy some for my printed funnels and tubes!

BTW, I tried the .12 layer height. The down tube took an hour longer tho.....Smoother, better looking, but still a bit rough for the little .223 bullets.....acetone may be the magic cure? Cool!

https://i.postimg.cc/TwcNFzfb/IMG-3636.jpg

[lablover]

Acetone, huh!......I woulda thought it would ruin the surface......really good to know!! On my way to buy some for my printed funnels and tubes!

BTW, I tried the .12 layer height. The down tube took an hour longer tho.....Smoother, better looking, but still a bit rough for the little .223 bullets.....acetone may be the magic cure? Cool!

I think sometimes I forget we are printing with plastic in layers and layer lines happen. I swear I’m eyeballing a resin printer for drop tubes etc. however that’s a rabbit hole I really don’t want to go down.
New microswiss nozzles ordered. Wooohoooo

[GWS]

I think sometimes I forget we are printing with plastic in layers and layer lines happen. I swear I’m eyeballing a resin printer for drop tubes etc. however that’s a rabbit hole I really don’t want to go down.
New microswiss nozzles ordered. Wooohoooo

I don't ever forget that.....I put up with that!;) So glad to hear of a possible help.

I used to build model airplanes. I learned to use gap filling super glue to fill voids, improve canopies make perfectly shaped wing lights, and the secret with working with super glue is the time window. Once it sets up you have 30 minutes to an hour to shape it, sand it, and polish it.....then it's too hard to do any of those things....but within the time you can polish it just as clear as an eyeglass lens. Such might be a complimentary process for certain 3d printed products, but I thought of it when Tyler gave us this trick of his......lots of tricks out there if you know them......:)

I was thinking of S.glue on the inside of my funnels, but the weakness is the shape inside there. hard to shape that shape when you have a hard time getting to it....not to mention so little time...

[TylerR]

After this next print finishes, which is the 9mm die insert, I will snap a before and after pick with the acetone treatment.

[GWS]

On pins and needles.....

This is the shape inside my down tube funnels.....right out of the bottom of the collator.
https://i.postimg.cc/6qmcNwS8/deburring-tool.png
So I'm thinking an acetone soaked cotton rag wrapped around that tool and rotated inside......might just smooth it pretty....

[lablover]

Something I’ve never considered and am starting to notice is I throw a p ring in the slicer and print away. Most of my parts come out a tiny bit too small so I just sand away. Something I need to do is adjust the scale size to add whatever percentage I have of the filament shrinking after the print is done. Never ever did that and am gonna try. Just watched a few YouTube videos exposing it’s a known issue. I feel dense for sure. We will see if it helps more on my needed dimensionally accuracy.

[TylerR]

Something I’ve never considered and am starting to notice is I throw a p ring in the slicer and print away. Most of my parts come out a tiny bit too small so I just sand away. Something I need to do is adjust the scale size to add whatever percentage I have of the filament shrinking after the print is done. Never ever did that and am gonna try. Just watched a few YouTube videos exposing it’s a known issue. I feel dense for sure. We will see if it helps more on my needed dimensionally accuracy.

As a designer I try very hard to create parts to fit with just the right amount of tension, but every printer is different so its hard to make it perfect for all situations. In the cases where a close fit doesn't matter, I always create plenty of buffer.

I can tell you that the dimensional accuracy on my old Flashforge Creator Pro is pretty terrible. It's much better on my Ender 5.

[lablover]

As a designer I try very hard to create parts to fit with just the right amount of tension, but every printer is different so its hard to make it perfect for all situations. In the cases where a close fit doesn't matter, I always create plenty of buffer.

I can tell you that the dimensional accuracy on my old Flashforge Creator Pro is pretty terrible. It's much better on my Ender 5.

I never really noticed until I printed the dropper die. The outside threads were a little bit too tight, inside holes were a little small etc. horizontal expansion. I look forward to testing it. I’m convinced it’s my issue. Amazing you can also correct for it. Now I need to find the shrinkage percentage for overture filament. Lol

[GWS]

When I was designing the insert to go into my Proximity Sensor Downtube for a .223 conversion, I was concerned about what clearance was necessary between the downtube and the insert, so it could "telescope" in tight, but not be restrictive.

So I did some research to see what manufacturers of telescoping steel tubing did, and I discovered the question was asked and answered from manufacturer to customer....and I copied what he said: He suggested the radius range be between .008" to .016"! Converting to MM that's between .2032mm to .4064mm. Look at your mm scale....that's not very much. I decided to reduce the outside radius by .3mm (the middle ground) and it worked very well....was pleased with the result on my CR-10v2...hardly any discernible give, yet it slid in fine.

The horizontal red lines show where the part ends up in the all green middle tee and top piece that twists into the base.....includes 2 diameters.
https://i.postimg.cc/bvnKyLsd/223-downtube.png

I was thinking about threading the top piece to the middle Tee but I chickened out and just superglued them together since I wasn't successful printing them as one part. ;) I got away with that because only the bottom piece changes by caliber......and it's a pretty easy change except for .223, since the tiny .223 bullets were too far away from the sensor going down the middle and had to be angled twards the sensor, then angled back to the top funnel.

[TylerR]

Here is a pic of the die insert before and after using acetone.

270773

[lablover]

Here is a pic of the die insert before and after using acetone.

270773


Yea, that’s a huge difference. I’ll give it another go today

[TylerR]

Yea, that’s a huge difference. I’ll give it another go today

As a heads up I have decided to go with the 3.5mm ball bearings instead of the 4mm. They work great with the .45 version using two, so I am going to design everything else around them, instead of using two different versions. Here is a link for the ones I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081SQZR62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[lablover]

As a heads up I have decided to go with the 3.5mm ball bearings instead of the 4mm. They work great with the .45 version using two, so I am going to design everything else around them, instead of using two different versions. Here is a link for the ones I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081SQZR62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just ordered. You’ve clearly already tried it I assume. Wooohoooo more die printing.

[TylerR]

Just ordered. You’ve clearly already tried it I assume. Wooohoooo more die printing.

Yes, the 45 and 9mm have been tested. You should not have to reprint your .45 version. Just keep it using the single 4mm for now.

I will post some video later on today of my .45 die in action.

[TylerR]

The case I used was not expanded with my m-die, so some of them sit crooked, but this shows the feeder working flawlessly.


https://youtu.be/u8-2JlhaZv8

[lablover]

The case I used was not expanded with my m-die, so some of them sit crooked, but this shows the feeder working flawlessly.


https://youtu.be/u8-2JlhaZv8


That’s some good timing for sure. Got mine running like a well oiled clock as well. Added the rubber o rings and that fixed lots of issues for sure. So excited!

[TylerR]

That’s some good timing for sure. Got mine running like a well oiled clock as well. Added the rubber o rings and that fixed lots of issues for sure. So excited!

This is with your 200gn SWC? Which height hole are you using?

[GWS]

The case I used was not expanded with my m-die, so some of them sit crooked, but this shows the feeder working flawlessly.


https://youtu.be/u8-2JlhaZv8

It appears that it works as good as its metallic cousins.....GOOD JOB! Of course the next question is how long before you have to print another? Maybe its worthwhile for you young guys to print several....have them in the wings! For me, most likely not so important. ;) Next you're going to tell me that you are printing out plastic "M" expanders! :)

I've been searching the net for someway to share .scad files with my Autocad......but seems it's a lost cause. I'm getting tired and I'm not as excited as I once was to learn still another cad program......but, I haven't given up yet. Dxf's don't work, period. I kind of wanted to print your big base, but with the ability to change the outlet hole if I want or need to for big rifle cases! Guess I'll just suck it up and print one.....and if I want to take it further, use old fashioned measurements to make a .dwg file from the print.

[lablover]

This is with your 200gn SWC? Which height hole are you using?

So far the 3rd from the bottom height wise seems to be working best

[TylerR]

It appears that it works as good as its metallic cousins.....GOOD JOB! Of course the next question is how long before you have to print another? Maybe its worthwhile for you young guys to print several....have them in the wings! For me, most likely not so important. ;) Next you're going to tell me that you are printing out plastic "M" expanders! :)

Honestly,I think these plastic feed dies should last for a long long time. There just isn't that much stress on anything to the point that it should fail.

Plastic m-dies? Who knows, maybe its worth a try!

[TylerR]

So far the 3rd from the bottom height wise seems to be working best

Cool, that one is 13mm from the end of the die insert. On the new one the holes are spaced at 15mm, 13mm, and 11mm. I think that should accommodate just about any bullet side.

[TylerR]

This is actually kind of fun creating these new dies, and taking my mind off of the extremely messed up situation this country now finds itself in.
9mm will be completed by tonight, then I am going to do .223 and 300BO. I could do a .40SW one fairly easily too if anyone wants it. The sky is the limit.

[TylerR]

I kind of wanted to print your big base, but with the ability to change the outlet hole if I want or need to for big rifle cases! Guess I'll just suck it up and print one.....and if I want to take it further, use old fashioned measurements to make a .dwg file from the print.

We are talking about feeding rifle cases base down correct? Because that does not use the regular drop hole that is part of the base. It uses a much larger drop hole that is part of the slide plate. If you haven't already checked out the base down case feeding video and files take a look.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xwO8ADc0JE&feature=youtu.be

[lablover]

The 3d printing is affecting my reloading time...that is not acceptable.......haha

Did some printer calibration today, yea one printer was wayyyyyy off. Should be good to go now

[djinnpb]

Gah I wish the acetone smoothing worked on petg. Pretty much all I print now. But I might have to pla+ it up for some of these. I printed the 45 feeder die (with hole compensation and thin walls) the design on these are great! I'll be tossing my existing 9mm and 45 to backups and using these. I do need to find some really small rubber bands since the orings I have are too large and kinda fall off. Definitely looking forward to the other ones too. My hat is off to kind sir..


This is actually kind of fun creating these new dies, and taking my mind off of the extremely messed up situation this country now finds itself in.
9mm will be completed by tonight, then I am going to do .223 and 300BO. I could do a .40SW one fairly easily too if anyone wants it. The sky is the limit.

You're so right. It's almost surreal.

[TylerR]

Gah I wish the acetone smoothing worked on petg. Pretty much all I print now. But I might have to pla+ it up for some of these. I printed the 45 feeder die (with hole compensation and thin walls) the design on these are great! I'll be tossing my existing 9mm and 45 to backups and using these. I do need to find some really small rubber bands since the orings I have are too large and kinda fall off. Definitely looking forward to the other ones too. My hat is off to kind sir..

Thank you sir. I appreciate that feedback. So funny enough I am using the little rubber bands that my kids use for their braces, and they work great. Haha. Decent rubber o-rings would work well too.

[lablover]

Gah I wish the acetone smoothing worked on petg. Pretty much all I print now. But I might have to pla+ it up for some of these. I printed the 45 feeder die (with hole compensation and thin walls) the design on these are great! I'll be tossing my existing 9mm and 45 to backups and using these. I do need to find some really small rubber bands since the orings I have are too large and kinda fall off. Definitely looking forward to the other ones too. My hat is off to kind sir..



You're so right. It's almost surreal.


Ok, now you have to explain hole compensation and thin walls. Curious.

I took the die to the hardware store and hit on some good o rings. So far so good. Bought a few different sizes

[GWS]

We are talking about feeding rifle cases base down correct? Because that does not use the regular drop hole that is part of the base. It uses a much larger drop hole that is part of the slide plate. If you haven't already checked out the base down case feeding video and files take a look.


I knew you did some base-down rifle, but I'm going to have to search for the posts that describe it. Wasn't bad until I came here and we got you jumped started all over again :).....106 pages worth now!. I notice with base down pistols, you don't have or need a "ramp" problem, but I'm not sure, with that deep pile of cases how you keep some of them from going in neck down, muscled in by the pile. Even with Lee's shakers and my mods of them for rifle, deep stacks cause headaches, so you got me curious.

Bottle neck rifle case electric collators usually have slots that cases lay down in, and tilt heavy end down at the top of the barrel, so you're absolutely right, I won't be using the "bullet hole";)

Just for fun, I going to show you my "shaker" mod to collate rifle......which I'll be happy to retire.....even if it is pretty darn simple to keep cases coming loading 12' of cases at a time. The "el" shaped holes don't care whether it's .308, or .223.......one size fits both........but I'm not at all thinking I could make a rotary plate do that.

https://vimeo.com/365180828
https://vimeo.com/365180897

[djinnpb]

Thank you sir. I appreciate that feedback. So funny enough I am using the little rubber bands that my kids use for their braces, and they work great. Haha. Decent rubber o-rings would work well too.

That is awesome! I was just going to ask where they were sourced since my wife looked at me funny when I asked "know where to get little rubber bands?" I do have some smaller orings I suppose I will try. The tolerances are great on these. Not having to ream or sand the hole to get the bearing to work well is great. I also ordered some 3.5mm for the future ones.


Ok, now you have to explain hole compensation and thin walls. Curious.

I actually found out about it when I was originally printing dies and needed more clearance (experimental under shell) since hole sizes are never right and I would have to tweak hole sizes in cad to compensate. Nice to be able to do in the slicer. Also seems like it depends on the hole too... and definitely the printer. My CR10v2 does fine with less but my ender3 will undersize holes way worse.

I just remembered I have some smaller o-rings I ordered to fix a leak on my lathe! Now I need to find where in my shop they are.

I still have to make a metal mounting bracket for the larger base. I've printed all the BNU and BND plates. By the way.. Greatness having the text on the front. going to be even more drop adapters to print now :)

[GWS]

I used to use those on my RCBS pistol bullet feeder dies too...

https://www.walmart.com/ip/100x-Dental-Orthodontics-Elastic-Teeth-Rubber-Bands-for-Braces-3-5oz-Force-1-4/314655648?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=15715&&adid=22222222227340683694&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=423460482470&wl4=pla-938923183087&wl5=9030489&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=118924286&wl11=online&wl12=314655648&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiA4o79BRBvEiwAjteoYDoo0q4NC6309ZdwvvQG 2L8i--hKZt3PyxyF55C_RbOMSompJGqFsRoCdAUQAvD_BwE

[TylerR]

I have just uploaded v1.1.0

Changes include:

- 9mm drop tube resized from 9.2 to 9.5 to give more clearance for 9mm / .355 bullets .
- 10mm drop tube resized from 10.2 to 10.5 to give more clearance for 10mm / .40 bullets.
- New bullet feeder dies added (9mm, .40, .45)
- Collator generator 2.0.8. New parameters to create large rifle brass plates.

Here is a real world example (thanks RedLegEd)

description=".45-70 Cases";
caliber=56;
collator_plate_h=8
isRifleBrassPlate = true;
rifleHoleWidth = 12;

[lablover]

I have just uploaded v1.1.0

Changes include:

- 9mm drop tube resized from 9.2 to 9.5 to give more clearance for 9mm / .355 bullets .
- 10mm drop tube resized from 10.2 to 10.5 to give more clearance for 10mm / .40 bullets.
- New bullet feeder dies added (9mm, .40, .45)
- Collator generator 2.0.8. New parameters to create large rifle brass plates.

Here is a real world example (thanks RedLegEd)

description=".45-70 Cases";
caliber=56;
collator_plate_h=8
isRifleBrassPlate = true;
rifleHoleWidth = 25;

Someone’s been busy. Thanks for the work buddy

[Rage 01]

Honestly,I think these plastic feed dies should last for a long long time. There just isn't that much stress on anything to the point that it should fail.

Plastic m-dies? Who knows, maybe its worth a try!

On my 9mm I have well over 5000 rounds through it. How ever I printed mine in PetG. Mostly because I can and had the PetG on hand.

[GWS]

You know what I really hate? Tyler just put me on to some free design software, DesignSpark, and sent me an .rsdoc file to play with on it, and I admit that it's neater than hell.......and then he adds all this new stuff! What do I really hate? I can't even begin to keep up.

When I was younger that'd be no problem.....I'd just do a few all nighters, learning, and be fine. No more of that.....I fall asleep.....what a curse.;) I think I've watched 10 tutorials today......went to sleep in the last one.....and I wasn't even bored. I really like this DesignSpark....but then do you have to convert it to something else to make a .STL file? Right?

So far, I'm thinking it's as powerful as 3d Autocad and some things are even easier.....just wish my Autocad could read their DXF files but they wont.....and that's a mystery I haven't gotten to the bottom of.

Thanks for all all the effort!

How many of you have a large base printer (300,300,400)? For my 308 rifle cases I'm entertaining another size upgrade to make a bigger plate still.....obviously that wouldn't be for Enders' and such. But I'm going to print Tyler's base this weekend first and see if there's really a need for extra large. I need to retire and do this full time.....rolling eyes......

[Rage 01]

Gah I wish the acetone smoothing worked on petg. Pretty much all I print now. But I might have to pla+ it up for some of these. I printed the 45 feeder die (with hole compensation and thin walls) the design on these are great! I'll be tossing my existing 9mm and 45 to backups and using these. I do need to find some really small rubber bands since the orings I have are too large and kinda fall off. Definitely looking forward to the other ones too. My hat is off to kind sir..



You're so right. It's almost surreal.

I tried the rubber bands and found that that wore out faster like in 800 or so rounds. Mind you the rubber bands I used were just cheap one what are made of TPU not rubber. I find the o-rings work the best. I would try and souce some out. Maybe TylerR can post which size he used.

[TylerR]

I really like this DesignSpark....but then do you have to convert it to something else to make a .STL file? Right?

No sir. Just do file - save as - choose .stl in the drop down.

[Rage 01]

You know what I really hate? Tyler just put me on to some free design software, DesignSpark, and sent me a ds file to play with on it, and I admit that it's neater than hell.......and then he adds all this new stuff! What do I really hate? I can't even begin to keep up.

When I was younger that'd be no problem.....I'd just do a few all nighters, learning, and be fine. No more of that.....I fall asleep.....what a curse.;) I think I've watched 10 tutorials today......went to sleep in the last one.....and I wasn't even bored. I really like this DesignSpark....but then do you have to convert it to something else to make a .STL file? Right?

Yes you have to save the file as a .stl. I am not sure how designspark does it. But Fusion you can send the file right to your slicer or save it. When I am designing/ Proto typing I send it to the slicer and when I am done I then save it as a .STL.

[TylerR]

Just used the collator generator to make this plate for .223 brass. I will print it out and see how it does with the "Pistol_Brass_Slide_Feed_Base_Down" adapter plate.

270857

[TylerR]

I tried the rubber bands and found that that wore out faster like in 800 or so rounds. Mind you the rubber bands I used were just cheap one what are made of TPU not rubber. I find the o-rings work the best. I would try and souce some out. Maybe TylerR can post which size he used.

I am using the rubber bands from my kids braces. lol. I put two bands on each side. GWS posted a link to them above. I did have some o-rings that I tried but they were old and kept breaking on me.

[GWS]

No sir. Just do file - save as - choose .stl in the drop down.

Good!......I got that notion from one of the tutorials......must have misunderstood. Autocad saves as an STL too, the one way Autocad is better is.....I already know it. A lot is really similar to Autocad except that autocad uses key board shortcuts that is faster than looking for a button to push. Like L for line, C or circle, PL for polyline, O for offset, I for insert, T for trim, etc. When you know the commands, that's faster. At least DesignSpark has anticipating menus that appear next to your cursor to speed it up a little more. and some commands are improved Autocad commands. Fun Fun! But I want Flash's super power.


Just used the collator generator to make this plate for .223 brass. I will print it out and see how it does with the "Pistol_Brass_Slide_Feed_Base_Down" adapter plate.

270857

7 holes.....that's probably enough......will be an interesting test! Waiting on pins and needles.....while I slave over 10 more D.S. tutorials......

[Rage 01]

I am having a hard time keeping up with the reading of all this great information. Let a lone keeping up with printing parts. I have 5 machines and they are all printing right now. I got a client that wants 125 different piece to a 3d table top game. I had to highjack my wifes machine to work on my bullet feeder parts. This thread is a wealth of information. If anyone one needs help or information 3d printing let me know. I have lots of experience and also work at a 3d printer company. I am sure I can answer most questions.

Raymond.

[GWS]

Thanks Raymond! And welcome to the "overwhelmed" club! What 3d printer company and what printers are you using?

[lablover]

GWS
I have a large bed printer. 300x300x400

What do you need to know. You could for sure do a bigger bowl and plates.

Now, off to see this design spark thing. Another rabbit hole

[Rage 01]

Thanks Raymond! And welcome to the "overwhelmed" club! What 3d printer company and what printers are you using?

I work for Spool 3d Canada
I have a Cr10s, 2 Enders, Mamarubot mars 2, and a flashforge creator pro 2.
Right now I am home from for for about a month because of a infected toe that had to be cut off. Diabetes can be a bugger sometimes..

I have been following this thread for a long time since it was on page 30. But recently every time I log on it seems to be up a page or 2 lol.

[TylerR]

So here is what's interesting. In my basic testing using a large pistol bullet collating plate, I am able to collate both .223 and .300BO brass pretty well. I am going to create a small pistol brass plate with 14mm height, and do more testing. I don't think the plate style I posted above is really even required except maybe for the larger rifle calibers.

[GWS]

I've already discovered that I don't need a different plate for each and every pistol bullet caliber....with the typical bucket angle, every bullet leans on the bottom surface of the plate holes. Now you are saying that maybe that could be true even crossing the bullet, case, pistol or rifle barriers too? Heresy! Burn him at the stake! :)

Boy that could save some serious printing time and rolls of plastic.....;)

BTW, this new software is beating me up......I watch the vids, and try it and it don't work for me.....I think my brain has died except for the stupid part......why is this so hard for me. Like changing my language from English to Greek. Maybe tomorrow will have less distractions....gotta get that base print started in the morning, then maybe I can focus better.

[TylerR]

I've already discovered that I don't need a different plate for each and every pistol bullet caliber....with the typical bucket angle, every bullet leans on the bottom surface of the plate holes. Now you are saying that maybe that could be true even crossing the bullet, case, pistol or rifle barriers too? Heresy! Burn him at the stake! :)

Boy that could save some serious printing time and rolls of plastic.....;)


Yeah this is starting to get weird. haha.

I am about to start a print that I believe will work for large pistol bullets and small rifle brass. Not even sure how to label it.

[GWS]

How about...Do you Believe in Magic.....is that too long? :)

[TylerR]

.223 and .308 feeder dies are now designed and waiting to go on the printer for testing. Also modified the brass base down slide plate to accommodate both pistol and large rifle caliber brass.

[Falconpunch]

Hello!

I printed Mikes feeder for the MBF motor and I don't have that motor, I saw Tylers post back some threads about getting that motor from MCM. I can't find the Turning plates nose up/down for other calibers from the 3 different files I've found for Mike's feeder. I found this thread today and read a ton through it. Would it be better to print Tyler's design as he has everything possible? Thanks Tyler for all you do already and the bullet feeder dies!

[Andar]

TylerR, I just finished the 9mm spring adapter. How do you want the file? I can send both the STL and the design files tomorrow. I'll also whip up a few more different sizes to match the spring kit once I get more time. Should be a lot faster now that I have a design that works. Let me know if you want me to add text to the part as well.

[TylerR]

TylerR, I just finished the 9mm spring adapter. How do you want the file? I can send both the STL and the design files tomorrow. I'll also whip up a few more different sizes to match the spring kit once I get more time. Should be a lot faster now that I have a design that works. Let me know if you want me to add text to the part as well.

STL files will be perfect.

These particular parts are kind of small for putting actual labels on them. What we do need is a spreadsheet that matches a filename with a full description, but that's kind of low on my list of things to do.

[TylerR]

Here is my latest addition. I added a slider to the brass feeding plate to account for rifle brass. This allows you to adjust the width of the drop hole, which is needed for different rifle calibers.

270996

[TylerR]

Hello!

I printed Mikes feeder for the MBF motor and I don't have that motor, I saw Tylers post back some threads about getting that motor from MCM. I can't find the Turning plates nose up/down for other calibers from the 3 different files I've found for Mike's feeder. I found this thread today and read a ton through it. Would it be better to print Tyler's design as he has everything possible? Thanks Tyler for all you do already and the bullet feeder dies!

Since no one responded to you I decided I should, and my answer is of course you should print my larger version! :)
In all seriousness, at this point I have a majority of what anyone would ever want to do with these things covered, including base up case feeding if you need it. I am putting some finishing touches on rifle brass feeding, which was really the last piece to the puzzle. I plan on getting a new release out today or tomorrow with these recent changes.

And with some folks like RedLegEd, GWS, and Andar contributing it can only get better.

[djinnpb]

so found something odd when printing the drop tubes. Anyone else have this issue when sliced with cura?
271019

[TylerR]

so found something odd when printing the drop tubes. Anyone else have this issue when sliced with cura?


Going to need more details on your nozzle and other settings. I am not exactly sure what I am looking at in the screen shot.
I have not had any issues using .4mm nozzle and Cura's built in Standard Quality settings.

[djinnpb]

Going to need more details on your nozzle and other settings. I am not exactly sure what I am looking at in the screen shot.
I have not had any issues using .4mm nozzle and Cura's built in Standard Quality settings.

To rule out any in my profiles I installed Cura fresh on a different system and used the standard quality with 0.4 nozzle and the same gaps are present still.. around where the sensor knobs go. Might be a bug in cura (on 4.8 beta) will try a few different versions but very odd. Of course S3d slices it fine (but I hate S3D!)

[TylerR]

To rule out any in my profiles I installed Cura fresh on a different system and used the standard quality with 0.4 nozzle and the same gaps are present still.. around where the sensor knobs go. Might be a bug in cura (on 4.8 beta) will try a few different versions but very odd. Of course S3d slices it fine (but I hate S3D!)

I stand corrected. Just ran a test in Cura 4.7 and same thing happened. I am going to increase the wall thickness there slightly and the problem should go away. I also found an issue with the 6, 7, and 8mm that I am fixing.

[GWS]

To rule out any in my profiles I installed Cura fresh on a different system and used the standard quality with 0.4 nozzle and the same gaps are present still.. around where the sensor knobs go. Might be a bug in cura (on 4.8 beta) will try a few different versions but very odd. Of course S3d slices it fine (but I hate S3D!)

Interesting! That's exactly why I downloaded the free Ideamaker slicer.....someone told me it was similar but better than S3d and free to boot, and less buggy than Cura. (don't know if that's true, but I find it easier to organize my mind around than Cura) The only complaint I had about it was the dark background....my old eyes don't do well with that. But they just released a beta I downloaded and there's Light! They have an option to change the dark to a light format....and my eyes love it!

A page or two back, lablover showed how Prusaslicer could vary layer heights in a print. So I was curious as to whether Ideamaker could do that. I searched for a video on the subject and lo and behold there was one.....its a different spin but it just may be the coolest feature.

Posting a screen shot of the big base I'm heading downstairs to print when I get through with this reply. We will see how it prints.

Notice on the right the color code for layer height.....automatically figured out by the slicer....for good or bad we will see. Time? about 20 minutes longer than printing at all green .2mm.

Notice, how it automatically put thinner layers top and bottom of the holes in the bucket sides.....think I might like.
https://i.postimg.cc/vB66Tx3t/Adaptive-layers-turned-on.png

[GWS]

Here is my latest addition. I added a slider to the brass feeding plate to account for rifle brass. This allows you to adjust the width of the drop hole, which is needed for different rifle calibers.

270996


And speaking of "liking"? Tyler.........really liking this!

[lablover]

Interesting! That's exactly why I downloaded the free Ideamaker slicer.....someone told me it was similar but better than S3d and free to boot, and less buggy than Cura. (don't know if that's true, but I find it easier to organize my mind around than Cura) The only complaint I had about it was the dark background....my old eyes don't do well with that. But they just released a beta I downloaded and there's Light! They have an option to change the dark to a light format....and my eyes love it!

A page or two back, lablover showed how Cura could vary layer heights in a print. So I was curious as to whether Ideamaker could do that. I searched for a video on the subject and lo and behold there was one.....its a different spin but it just may be the coolest feature.

Posting a screen shot of the big base I'm heading downstairs to print when I get through with this reply. We will see how it prints.

Notice on the right the color code for layer height.....automatically figured out by the slicer....for good or bad we will see. Time? about 20 minutes longer than printing at all green .2mm.

Notice, how it automatically put thinner layers top and bottom of the holes in the bucket sides.....think I might like.
https://i.postimg.cc/vB66Tx3t/Adaptive-layers-turned-on.png


Not cura......prusa slicer. Still not sure I’m a fan yet either. I’m too familiar with cura. Now I want to try this ideamaker.
I notice it likes a finer layer around holes etc...brilliant. Now where’s my new MacBook
Great updates Tyler!

[lablover]

so found something odd when printing the drop tubes. Anyone else have this issue when sliced with cura?
271019

I’ve gotten the same, didn’t seem like a big issue

[GWS]

Not cura......prusa slicer. Still not sure I’m a fan yet either. I’m too familiar with cura. Now I want to try this ideamaker.
I notice it likes a finer layer around holes etc...brilliant. Now where’s my new MacBook
Great updates Tyler!

Fixed it....that's right Prusa Slicer! Then I think Tyler may have mentioned that Cura does it too, but both Ideamaker and Cura do it automatically so you have to like when and where they do it. On the other hand, at least with IdeaMaker it is simple....almost no effort.

Here's a link to the video on Ideamaker's version, called "Adaptive layers", where you can also see the DARK interface. So glad they give a choice now!


https://youtu.be/Z6uMx1FtfDU

IdeaMaker also has another "adaptive" feature I really like (and maybe the other slicers do it too) but this is really cool....Called Adaptive Infill.


https://youtu.be/uCRlT952FVk

[noacess]

Does anyone know if these motors are the same (and will fit the ETZGMP38 base)? I'm trying to decide which motor to go with for TylerR's base. Thanks!

https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DC-Gearmotor-12VDC-52JE51
https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

[o416]

Does anyone know if these motors are the same (and will fit the ETZGMP38 base)? I'm trying to decide which motor to go with for TylerR's base. Thanks!

https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DC-Gearmotor-12VDC-52JE51
https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

I am going with Tyler's design too lol I would love to know if either will work as well. The Grainger one would be nice for me as it's easier to get in Canada.

They seem the same to me but has anybody use the Grainger?

[TylerR]

I am going with Tyler's design too lol I would love to know if either will work as well. The Grainger one would be nice for me as it's easier to get in Canada.

They seem the same to me but has anybody use the Grainger?

Both motors show dimensional drawings. You have to take a peek at them and compare the two. From what I see they appear to be the same, but I have no experience with the Grainger one.

[GWS]

The Grainger one is a Dayton Motor.....same size as my motor but slower rpms, so I hope it's close enough too.;)

One measurement c/c on the mounting bolts is 2.38 on the McMaster. You designed the base for the DAA one no longer sold, I assume?.....the Dayton's measurement is 2.375. I hope McMaster was just rounding...;) The motor shaft is another matter......close but not exact. I wonder if the difference was the draftsmen as its extremely close.

[TylerR]

The Grainger one is a Dayton Motor.....same size as my motor but slower rpms, so I hope it's close enough too.;)

One measurement c/c on the mounting bolts is 2.38 on the McMaster. You designed the base for the DAA one no longer sold, I assume?.....the Dayton's measurement is 2.375. I hope McMaster was just rounding...;) The motor shaft is another matter......close but not exact. I wonder if the difference was the draftsmen as its extremely close.

I designed mine around the specs for the original, which is the same as the McMaster. The two motors I have I actually ordered direct from China. From looking at the drawings I suspect they are just rounding to the nearest 100th.

[TylerR]

Just uploaded v1.1.1

- Re-organized files in folders for more clarity.
- Added the feeder dies for .223 and .308
- Fixed a few issues with drop tubes.
- Changed the way bullet slots are created on the plate generator. They are not quite so pronounced.
- Re-generated bullet plates again. They now have new slots and alternating ridges.
- Added collator plates for small and large rifle brass.
- Modified base down brass slide plate to be adjustable width for rifle brass (tolerances are tight for a reason. I suggest a tiny bit of grease on the adjusting slides ridges).

[o416]

I designed mine around the specs for the original, which is the same as the McMaster. The two motors I have I actually ordered direct from China. From looking at the drawings I suspect they are just rounding to the nearest 100th.

Hey Tyler!

Do you know the model number of that motor?I can't seem to find it on AliExpress. Is that where you ordered it?

Thx!

[TylerR]

Hey Tyler!

Do you know the model number of that motor?I can't seem to find it on AliExpress. Is that where you ordered it?

Thx!

I went through a month long process with the manufacturer to order two samples. It's not worth it.

[TylerR]

.223 brass.... And its upside down. Working to fix...
So I shot two videos and the one I want to use youtube insists on rotating, and they removed all controls to change that. w*f??
The other video had the collator running much faster.


https://youtu.be/H9dFv4TZLQ8

[Falconpunch]

Does anyone know if these motors are the same (and will fit the ETZGMP38 base)? I'm trying to decide which motor to go with for TylerR's base. Thanks!

https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DC-Gearmotor-12VDC-52JE51
https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

I was about to ask that, I have a Grainger 2 mins down the road from work and saw those.

If using the MBF motor, does the roll pin need to be in a certain spot on the shaft to use Tyler's and Mikes plates? I went ahead and printed everything for mikes design then will print Tyler's next. Could it be possible to 3d print a key so the roll pin is not needed? I don't remember if they call it half moon or D shaft.

[GWS]

I didn't mess with a roll pin....lazy? This is what I did: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K7FKWJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (8mm shaft)

https://i.postimg.cc/DZpdYpgf/Hex-for-8mm-shaft.jpg

Tyler's "Hex" plates should fit.....I think...;)

For my A.M. "little" collator with the little motor and 6mm shaft I used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z4HCX8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (6mm shaft)

Fit the "Hex" plates for that, perfectly.


.223 brass.... And its upside down. Working to fix...
So I shot two videos and the one I want to use youtube insists on rotating, and they removed all controls to change that. w*f??
The other video had the collator running much faster.


https://youtu.be/H9dFv4TZLQ8

Perfect! Love it! The vid is right side up for me. I'm betting that at that speed we won't have any problem keeping up....even though the .308 version probably just has 4 holes.
How did you get those stove pipes to fall just in time? Cool! Actually, even if they don't topple, they'd fall base down......

[TylerR]

....even though the .308 version probably just has 4 holes.

5 holes for the .308

[GWS]

Even better....

[lablover]

.223 brass.... And its upside down. Working to fix...
So I shot two videos and the one I want to use youtube insists on rotating, and they removed all controls to change that. w*f??
The other video had the collator running much faster.


https://youtu.be/H9dFv4TZLQ8


Amazing! I’m looking to get another Dillon and this will save me from buying the brass collater! Brilliant

[djinnpb]

Tyler, that brass plate is awesome! Will try that on the new base once I get it mounted.

Also thanks for the drop die wall change. I printed the 12 last night and it looks great! I also printed the 9mm feed die and the insert doesn't fit my .357 sized cast. they seem to stop/hit right above the ball bearing detent holes and unable to drop one in from the bottom drop tube end. I'll try it on one of my other printers tonight.. slicing it, I don't see any inside dimensional changes? Also they current 1.1.0 feed dies are all designed for 3.5mm ball bearings?

All this printing I had to order more PETG!

[TylerR]

Tyler, that brass plate is awesome! Will try that on the new base once I get it mounted.

Also thanks for the drop die wall change. I printed the 12 last night and it looks great! I also printed the 9mm feed die and the insert doesn't fit my .357 sized cast. they seem to stop/hit right above the ball bearing detent holes and unable to drop one in from the bottom drop tube end. I'll try it on one of my other printers tonight.. slicing it, I don't see any inside dimensional changes? Also they current 1.1.0 feed dies are all designed for 3.5mm ball bearings?

All this printing I had to order more PETG!

The inner diameter of the feed die insert is 9.5mm. Almost a full .5 mm larger then .357. Have they been sized? I would suggest printing it with high quality settings, and if it still snug use a round file and possibly some acetone to clean up the rough surface on the inside of the die.

Also, download the v1.1.1 version to get the latest. And yes they all use 3.5 mm bearings.

[djinnpb]

The inner diameter of the feed die insert is 9.5mm. Almost a full .5 mm larger then .357. Have they been sized? I would suggest printing it with high quality settings, and if it still snug use a round file and possibly some acetone to clean up the rough surface on the inside of the die.

Ah. I'll definitely print another at high quality. Oddly the top is 9.5 as printed but the bottom is 70 thou smaller. Yup they were sized.



Also, download the v1.1.1 version to get the latest. And yes they all use 3.5 mm bearings.

Awesome! will do! Also new releases. This is exciting!

[lablover]

Lol, my 3.5 bearings came in the other day and I was busy. I asked my Wife to set them aside.........yup, gone forever

[GWS]

Lol, my 3.5 bearings came in the other day and I was busy. I asked my Wife to set them aside.........yup, gone forever

Look in the freezer........

My wife lost her small purse and keys once.......that's where we found them a month later. ;) Also all your trash cans.....that time it was me.

BTW......What's the typical time it takes to print the big base for you guys?????

I started my print yesterday and it failed (edges each side of the slides rose like Dracula from the coffin). Said it was going to take 45 hours! So today I looked at ways to speed it up.....infill stayed at 18%, but I changed it from lines to gyroid and it cut 6 hours off?!?!

I restarted the print, using RedlegEd's advice to use Acetone to clean the Creality treated glass bed.....seems to be working...3 hours in, and no lifting.

Below....gyroid version printing....the fail, with lines fill, on the right....same 18% fill. Hard to believe the gyroid waves is faster by 6 hours on IdeaMaker.

https://i.postimg.cc/8CxZbBRr/IMG-3637.jpg

Gyroid wins the cool-looking contest....

Also ordered TylerR's favorite bed made of polypropylene, but it won't arrive for a week. I appreciate their sage advice. This will be my first large Tyler base.....it's going to be a case collator for rifle (.223/.308) to be used on my Pro Chucker 7. Going to be a busy winter if I can keep my health.

[lablover]

Look in the freezer........

My wife lost her small purse and keys once.......that's where we found them a month later. ;) Also all your trash cans.....that time it was me.


Hahahaha. I already ordered more. The lost ones will show up then

I’ve been going nuts looking for these damn things...wife says I know I gave them to you. Yea, looked in the amazon box in the trash, never guess what I found. Gotta love em

[o416]

This is not directly related to the Tyler/AM design so please don't shut me down right away lol

I print with a 0.8mm nozzle and what I gain speed, I lose in precision especially for precision fitting parts like this project.

When I had a 0.4mm nozzle, I still had tolerance issues.

What are you all doing to resolve this?

Tyler, I would love to hear your thoughts since you are the 3D printing guru here :P

[TylerR]

Also ordered TylerR's favorite bed made of polypropylene, but it won't arrive for a week. I appreciate their sage advice. This will be my first large Tyler base.....it's going to be a case collator for rifle (.223/.308) to be used on my Pro Chucker 7. Going to be a busy winter if I can keep my health.

Really glad to hear you got a successful start to the print!

[TylerR]

This is not directly related to the Tyler/AM design so please don't shut me down right away lol

I print with a 0.8mm nozzle and what I gain speed, I lose in precision especially for precision fitting parts like this project.

When I had a 0.4mm nozzle, I still had tolerance issues.

What are you all doing to resolve this?

Tyler, I would love to hear your thoughts since you are the 3D printing guru here :P

I don't know about being a guru, but I can say I have struggled with dimensional accuracy before myself, especially with my first machine (Flashforge Creator Pro). I am getting far better prints with my Ender 5 using cura.

Using a .4mm nozzle is a must for certain parts of this project through. Especially things like the feeder dies.

[TylerR]

OK, so I forget who it was, but someone posted a while back about a very unique slide plate they created for 6.5 Creedmoor bullets. I took a stab at creating it tonight, and think I have something workable. Only thing is I don't load 6.5 creedmoor, so if anyone wants to test it and report back please do. I have labeled it Slide_Feed_Nose_Up_#11. It is designed to match up with the large rifle bullet plate.

Here are pics of mine in green and the original in gray.

271094

[o416]

I don't know about being a guru, but I can say I have struggled with dimensional accuracy before myself, especially with my first machine (Flashforge Creator Pro). I am getting far better prints with my Ender 5 using cura.

Using a .4mm nozzle is a much for certain parts of this project through. Especially things like the feeder dies.

Do you use adaptive layers? Is there a screenshot of the settings you use that you posted here? I have seen many and don't know which you have had the best luck with; I have and Ender 3 Pro.

Thx!

[TylerR]

Do you use adaptive layers? Is there a screenshot of the settings you use that you posted here? I have seen many and don't know which you have had the best luck with; I have and Ender 3 Pro.

Thx!

I do not. Not sure what slicer you are using, but in Cura I just select the stock setting of "Super Quality - 0.12mm" for anything I want accuracy on.

[GWS]

I do not. Not sure what slicer you are using, but in Cura I just select the stock setting of "Super Quality - 0.12mm" for anything I want accuracy on.

Do you use that SQ -.12mm mode for printing your bases? If so how long does the base print take in that mode?

[TylerR]

Do you use that SQ -.12mm mode for printing your bases? If so how long does the base print take in that mode?

No I used the standard quality .2mm for that. Last one I did took about 34 hours to print. Super quality would probably take 5 days or something crazy.

Edited to clarify I used standard quality but changed it to 4 walls instead of 2. 25% infill.

[GWS]

Really glad to hear you got a successful start to the print!

Yes, I was worried that the bed was toast. RedlegEd's acetone treatment worked better than my 99% isopropyl alcohol. What I'm printing is 4 walls variable layer height, 18% fill. 39 hours, but I'm wondering if I forgot to check for excess nozzle travel.....or maybe the variable layer height adds five hours...don't know.

[Rage 01]

Yes, I was worried that the bed was toast. RedlegEd's acetone treatment worked better than my 99% isopropyl alcohol. What I'm printing is 4 walls variable layer height, 18% fill. 39 hours, but I'm wondering if I forgot to check for excess nozzle travel.....or maybe the variable layer height adds five hours...don't know.

The variable layer height will add time. How much is anyone's guess.

[o416]

No I used the standard quality .2mm for that. Last one I did took about 34 hours to print. Super quality would probably take 5 days or something crazy.

Edited to clarify I used standard quality but changed it to 4 walls instead of 2. 25% infill.

How about the case/bullet plates? Do you use Super Quality for them? Or just Standard Quality?

[lablover]

How about the case/bullet plates? Do you use Super Quality for them? Or just Standard Quality?

I tend to use standard on those items. I have played with the variable layer height in prusa but it does add time. I have a plate like GWS that looks terrible and works perfect

[GWS]

I tend to use standard on those items. I have played with the variable layer height in prusa but it does add time. I have a plate like GWS that looks terrible and works perfect

Yeah, my "ironed" plate didn't look so hot, but it works like a dream.

So this morning at 16 hours here's some pictures to illustrate what this variable layer stuff is like....not yet printed up to the areas of most layer change, but the lower "blue" areas at <.20 looks pretty good except for the artifact at the ramp you can see in the close up. Of course that's in the trough too....with a ramp in....so what.

https://i.postimg.cc/HLVF99NQ/IMG-3638.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/Pq9938G0/IMG-3640.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/3RG6PJYN/IMG-3642.jpg

In this close up you can see the textured finish on the treated Creality Glass Bed. It is definitely sticking after the acetone wipe down, and the higher bed temp? I copied TylerR's temps......1st layer, 220C/80C. Then the rest of the print, 210C/70C. Filament BTW, is that black Overture PLA+.

[noacess]

OK, so I forget who it was, but someone posted a while back about a very unique slide plate they created for 6.5 Creedmoor bullets. I took a stab at creating it tonight, and think I have something workable. Only thing is I don't load 6.5 creedmoor, so if anyone wants to test it and report back please do. I have labeled it Slide_Feed_Nose_Up_#11. It is designed to match up with the large rifle bullet plate.

Here are pics of mine in green and the original in gray.

271094


Would this be the right slide plate to use for the big 200+ gr 308 bullets used for 300 Blackout (along with the large rifle plate)? I was never able to get these long bullets to work quite right in my AM feeder even after trying the plate linked below.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547193271119

Thanks!

[TylerR]

Yeah, my "ironed" plate didn't look so hot, but it works like a dream.

So this morning at 16 hours here's some pictures to illustrate what this variable layer stuff is like....not yet printed up to the areas of most layer change, but the lower "blue" areas at <.20 looks pretty good except for the artifact at the ramp you can see in the close up. Of course that's in the trough too....with a ramp in....so what.

In this close up you can see the textured finish on the treated Creality Glass Bed. It is definitely sticking after the acetone wipe down, and the higher bed temp? I copied TylerR's temps......1st layer, 220C/80C. Then the rest of the print, 210C/70C.

That's looking good so far GWS!

[TylerR]

Would this be the right slide plate to use for the big 200+ gr 308 bullets used for 300 Blackout (along with the large rifle plate)? I was never able to get these long bullets to work quite right in my AM feeder even after trying the plate linked below.

Thanks!


Yes! As a matter of fact, once I get it printed out I am going to test with my 230gn 300BO cast boolits.

[djinnpb]

OK, so I forget who it was, but someone posted a while back about a very unique slide plate they created for 6.5 Creedmoor bullets. I took a stab at creating it tonight, and think I have something workable. Only thing is I don't load 6.5 creedmoor, so if anyone wants to test it and report back please do. I have labeled it Slide_Feed_Nose_Up_#11. It is designed to match up with the large rifle bullet plate.

Here are pics of mine in green and the original in gray.

271094

That me was :P But really for any long bullet. I use that on the original am base with that for the 300blk subs (247gr cast). I'm anxious to try that out. I also have some 6.5 creed so I'll test that out and give feedback. Thanks for this!



Yes! As a matter of fact, once I get it printed out I am going to test with my 230gn 300BO cast boolits.

That will work a treat. I tried all the Tom adjustable ones and could never get them to feed without that deep dip like that slide. Also now that I think about it that might be where my side tilting of the base came from in attempts to get them to drop correctly.

[noacess]

Yes! As a matter of fact, once I get it printed out I am going to test with my 230gn 300BO cast boolits.

Awesome, I'd love to see a video of that when its done!

[Falconpunch]

Shop didn't have metric bearings >< so I'll have to order. Is it the same size of bearing for all the feed inserts, 9,45,223,308? I thought I saw 2.5mm but just want to make sure.

[TylerR]

Shop didn't have metric bearings >< so I'll have to order. Is it the same size of bearing for all the feed inserts, 9,45,223,308? I thought I saw 2.5mm but just want to make sure.

3.5mm. Same for all yes.

[noacess]

Anyone using either of these motors with TylerR's feeder with success? I think they'd fit the 634JS base. I'd like to avoid gambling if I can and not have to reprint the base to use the more expensive motors :D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FGWRDD2/?coliid=I36GON9RJFKGI6&colid=32SO71E5B8Y4X&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBXMTWC/?coliid=I21G223BNA4QAN&colid=32SO71E5B8Y4X&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

[TylerR]

Anyone using either of these motors with TylerR's feeder with success? I think they'd fit the 634JS base. I'd like to avoid gambling if I can and not have to reprint the base to use the more expensive motors :D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FGWRDD2/?coliid=I36GON9RJFKGI6&colid=32SO71E5B8Y4X&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBXMTWC/?coliid=I21G223BNA4QAN&colid=32SO71E5B8Y4X&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The second link shows the motor spec and it is the 634JS.

[lablover]

GWS

That print sure is off to a good start. Very good finish

[GWS]

GWS

That print sure is off to a good start. Very good finish

Not bad at all, except for the occasional string scar. I've tried everything to stop that....it's gotten better, but it still happens. Clueless.....I've tried lowering temp, raising temp, increasing speed between, messing with every retraction setting....nothing stops it totally. But it's strictly cosmetic......but I'm a bling all my brass with lemishine and pins in a wet tumbler kind of guy.......IOWs anal.;)

The quality of the walls is way smoother than my A.M. small base, which was all done at .20 high layers. I'll post another picture at the 24 hour mark. You can't hardly tell which layers are .25 or .12 or somewhere between. This variable layer height is interesting.

[Andar]

This is not directly related to the Tyler/AM design so please don't shut me down right away lol

I print with a 0.8mm nozzle and what I gain speed, I lose in precision especially for precision fitting parts like this project.

When I had a 0.4mm nozzle, I still had tolerance issues.

What are you all doing to resolve this?

Tyler, I would love to hear your thoughts since you are the 3D printing guru here :P

Check to make sure your printer is calibrated. Print off some calibration tests like the cube and measure it to make sure everything is correct. Your extruder steps could be slightly off causing over or under extrusion which will throw off the size. Make sure your belts are also tensioned properly and aren't rubbing. Check your bearings and wheels to make sure everything is moving freely and aren't forming grooves, lastly make sure the machine is square.
Lots of guides online on how to do this with specific machines. Lastly try another slicer if that doesn't solve the issues.

[lablover]

Not bad at all, except for the occasional string scar. I've tried everything to stop that....it's gotten better, but it still happens. Clueless.....I've tried lowering temp, raising temp, increasing speed between, messing with every retraction setting....nothing stops it totally. But it's strictly cosmetic......but I'm a bling all my brass with lemishine and pins in a wet tumbler kind of guy.......IOWs anal.;)

The quality of the walls is way smoother than my A.M. small base, which was all done at .20 high layers. I'll post another picture at the 24 hour mark. You can't hardly tell which layers are .25 or .12 or somewhere between. This variable layer height is interesting.

I want to play with that more. My .2 layer height for some reason looks terrible! Even replaced the nozzle etc. I’ve got something set wrong someplace. .12 layer height looks great. Printers almost took a shotgun blast today I swear...hahaha

I always find fresh rolls of pla always print better for me. I may have toasted the pla I had in the filament heater. Left it on for like 3 days cooking. Lol

[djinnpb]

Here is my latest addition. I added a slider to the brass feeding plate to account for rifle brass. This allows you to adjust the width of the drop hole, which is needed for different rifle calibers.

270996

printed and a little grease as you recommend and it's perfect. All the pieces are starting to come together. Printing the 300bo plate currently.

[TylerR]

printed and a little grease as you recommend and it's perfect. All the pieces are starting to come together. Printing the 300bo plate currently.

Awesome! I did redesign the small rifle brass plates to be 6mm high instead of 8mm, but that shouldn't make a big difference. I also noticed some issue with crows feet, so I once again modified the generator to add a bottom bevel. On yours you may want to take an xacto knife to the bottom ridge if you notice any issues.

[TylerR]

I was looking at the 6.5 creedmoor/.308 stuff some more, and did a little testing with a bogus rifle plate I had. One of the issues is getting the really long bullets to fall in the vertical hole. I saw that the one on thingiverse had a custom collator plate, and I wondered if I could reproduce something similar in the generator. The concept is to spread the holes out further, and have a ridge that stops the bullet right at the far edge of the hold so it will drop in. This is what I came up with. Original in gray, mine in yellow. Adding the sliding slots is optional as always.

Looking for feedback.....

271159

[GWS]

I want to play with that more. My .2 layer height for some reason looks terrible! Even replaced the nozzle etc. I’ve got something set wrong someplace. .12 layer height looks great. Printers almost took a shotgun blast today I swear...hahaha

I always find fresh rolls of pla always print better for me. I may have toasted the pla I had in the filament heater. Left it on for like 3 days cooking. Lol

One of the few perks for living in dry as hades New Mexico, is that I haven't had a problem with water wicking.....;) Thought I would a couple of months ago when I had my evaporative cooler going (cools, but puts moisture in the indoor air), but it wasn't a problem.

My print is now past the 24 hour mark (at which I took more pictures, below).

I am documenting this print closer than any other, because of the variable layer height feature I implemented. It may be a useful learning experience for you folks as well as me....to help with decisions about whether that feature is useful or not....in spite of the 6 hour? increase in print time. 39 hours is the projected length of this base print.

Here's the overall picture of the ongoing as I post, print....will it ever get done!;):

https://i.postimg.cc/3xvrw0M1/IMG-3645.jpg
I also measured the speed of wall building.....a whopping 1/8" per hour! At my age this is a trial....my patience waiting (except for death and taxes) is getting thin as get within 30 years of the century mark!;)
https://i.postimg.cc/FR9hGPYC/IMG-3652.jpg

Once again look at the screen shot of how IdeaMaker handles layer height on this print, then pay attention to the visible bands in the following pictures that denote changes in layer density. (in the IdeaMaker projection, green is .20, blue is .1 or .12) :

271166

https://i.postimg.cc/hPJcCQGn/IMG-3656.jpg
None of the layers look that rough do they?
https://i.postimg.cc/rFbFcCHz/IMG-3646.jpg
Notice the marks to the right of the hole....layer stops and starts? The setting is random....but it isn't that random if that's what it is.

I'm curious about the vertical lines......not those that denote flats on the .stl circles, but the ones only 1/32" apart? Just curious why?

[GWS]

I was looking at the 6.5 creedmoor/.308 stuff some more, and did a little testing with a bogus rifle plate I had. One of the issues is getting the really long bullets to fall in the vertical hole. I saw that the one on thingiverse had a custom collator plate, and I wondered if I could reproduce something similar in the generator. The concept is to spread the holes out further, and have a ridge that stops the bullet right at the far edge of the hold so it will drop in. This is what I came up with. Original in gray, mine in yellow. Adding the sliding slots is optional as always.

Looking for feedback.....

271159

Tyler, what if you add another slide at each hole, from each hole's centerline, at a 45 degree angle from the existing slides, for which to slide bullet toward the holes and their stops from two directions. One stop being the base wall, the other stop being the raised edges you added?

[lablover]

One of the few perks for living in dry as hades New Mexico, is that I haven't had a problem with water wicking.....;) Thought I would a couple of months ago when I had my evaporative cooler going (cools, but puts moisture in the indoor air), but it wasn't a problem.

My print is now past the 24 hour mark (at which I took more pictures, below).

I am documenting this print closer than any other, because of the variable layer height feature I implemented. It may be a useful learning experience for you folks as well as me....to help with decisions about whether that feature is useful or not....inspite of the 6 hour? increase in print time. 39 hours is the projected length of this base print.

Heres the overall picture of the ongoing print:

https://i.postimg.cc/3xvrw0M1/IMG-3645.jpg
I also measured the speed of wall building.....a whopping 1/8" per hour! At my age this is a trial....my patience waiting (except for death and taxes) is getting thin as get within 30 years of the century mark!;)
https://i.postimg.cc/FR9hGPYC/IMG-3652.jpg

Once again look at the screen shot of how IdeaMaker handles layer height on this print, then pay attention to the visible bands in the following pictures that denote changes in layer density. (in the IdeaMaker projection, green is .20, blue is .1 or .12) :

271166

https://i.postimg.cc/hPJcCQGn/IMG-3656.jpg
None of the layers look that rough do they?
https://i.postimg.cc/rFbFcCHz/IMG-3646.jpg
Notice the marks to the right of the hole....I think layer stop and starts? The setting is random....but it isn't that random.

Yea that print is looking real good. I want to like ideamaker but it’s crashed on me a few times. Then again I’m using a Mac sooooooo. I keep going back to cura but still liking the print quality in Prusa slicer. Just curious, what are you all printing drop tubes at? Layer height I mean. I did one at 2 and it sucked but good.
I think tomorrow I’ll crack ope a new spool of overture and give this one a break...lol
Also going to try the acetone on the creality bed. Just got a new plate for the ender 3 and it’s the same as yours

[Ban]

Neat stuff there guys.

[TylerR]

Tyler, what if you add another slide at each hole, from each hole's centerline, at a 45 degree angle from the existing slides, for which to slide bullet toward the holes and their stops from two directions. One stop being the base wall, the other stop being the raised edges you added?

Check this out. I think this is the ticket right here.

271175

[GWS]

Yea that print is looking real good. I want to like ideamaker but it’s crashed on me a few times. Then again I’m using a Mac sooooooo. I keep going back to cura but still liking the print quality in Prusa slicer. Just curious, what are you all printing drop tubes at? Layer height I mean. I did one at 2 and it sucked but good.
I think tomorrow I’ll crack ope a new spool of overture and give this one a break...lol
Also going to try the acetone on the creality bed. Just got a new plate for the ender 3 and it’s the same as yours

Can't even comment on Apple (allergic to them).....but,I'd email Raise3D and ask them about it.......they responded to my email, complaining about the dark interface, and now I get to use it with a light interface.:)

The new Creality plate has a lot of brownish gunk on it which the acetone will take off (alcohol did too but slower). But don't worry, it worked better with it gone, IME.

My drop tubes were printed at .2. But the next one is going to be .12 all the way.....I'll just have to find a diversion while it's printing.


Check this out. I think this is the ticket right here.

271175

Maybe, maybe.....;) The worst part is waiting for the plastic to print. Personally I'd be tempted to make one from wood using a drill press and a Dremel tool, and pound nails vertically behind the uprights, and glue the uprights (also wood) in front of them. ;).....then throw it away if it didn't work! I know wood shops, but this plastic factory is neat, slower than frozen grease...but I don't have to work....just watch impatiently or get the heck away from it.

But it's worth a try.......if too slow add the other slider trough.

[lablover]

Check this out. I think this is the ticket right here.

271175


Dude, you are out of control! Epic work my friend

[noacess]

Check this out. I think this is the ticket right here.

271175

The biggest issue I had with the thingiverse one was since the bullets were so long they'd ride up on the ridge of the plate and just rotate in the back of the bowl. Your design seems to fix that issue. I'll be curious to see how well the bullet flipping part works since that was the other part that was giving me fits no matter what speed/angle I went at.

271177

[GWS]

Had a thought.....yes it even happens to me.....

On my shakers you have a slight funnel that runs the bullets towards the hole. Why not make a funnel around each hole....doesn't have to be deep, just wide. Since you have the verticals the funnel could be as big around as say 1" diameter centered on the holes but going around from plate edge to the upright.

[noacess]

In other news, my print is on its way. Only 23.5 hours left!

271180

[lablover]

In other news, my print is on its way. Only 23.5 hours left!

271180


Great, another prusa photo. I’ve had one in the cart for a week...just can’t “pull the trigger”

[djinnpb]

Check this out. I think this is the ticket right here.

271175

That does indeed look like the ticket! The original in gray fixed all the issues I had. You sir are definitely on a roll! What parameters did you use to get those bullet spike troughs?
Whenever you update the generator or file I'll also print one to test and the deep ramp piece. I have spent more time on 247gr cast boolits with the other one (original in gray), probably more grumbling and fidgeting until I found that one. This will likely make me print another big base :O and maybe just use the original AM one for just sizing. Epic and coincidentally I just ordered more filament. It's a sign!

[TylerR]

That does indeed look like the ticket! The original in gray fixed all the issues I had. You sir are definitely on a roll! What parameters did you use to get those bullet spike troughs?
Whenever you update the generator or file I'll also print one to test and the deep ramp piece. I have spent more time on 247gr cast boolits with the other one (original in gray), probably more grumbling and fidgeting until I found that one. This will likely make me print another big base :O and maybe just use the original AM one for just sizing. Epic and coincidentally I just ordered more filament. It's a sign!

I just started printing mine. I will post it in just a little bit. These are the settings I used to produce this, using the new parameters. centerRidges = false and rotateSlides = true;

description="Long Rifle Bullet (#4)"; //description
caliber=7.82; //ENTER YOUR CALIBER HERE
collator_plate_h=18; //plate height - pistol 13, rifle 18

// RIFLE BRASS PLATE OPTIONS
// Use caliber setting for hole length
isRifleBrassPlate = false;
rifleHoleWidth = 9;

// PLATE OPTIONS
addPivots = false; // Add pivots for base down brass feeding
addSlides = true; // Add sliding slots for bullets
addRidges = true; // Add top ridges for brass plates
centerRidges = false; // if false ridges align with far side of hole
rotateSlides = true; // Rotate slides 90 degrees in front of hole
ridgeAlternate = false; // Skip every other hole
ridgeHeight = 3.0; // Ridge height in mm
ridgeLength = 15; // Ridge length in mm
hole_multiplier=3.5; // Modify the number of holes

addBevel = true; // Add top bevel to holes
bevelSize = 1.5; // Change depth of bevel (1.3 - 1.6)

[TylerR]

v1.1.3 uploading now.

[noacess]

v1.1.3 uploading now.

Awesome. Is the new collator generator the only change?

[TylerR]

Awesome. Is the new collator generator the only change?

I also regenerated the rifle brass plates, and added the new "deep dish" rifle bullet slide.
I am in a stage of tweaking things on a daily basis, so in general my suggestion is if you haven't printed a part and are thinking about it, always download the latest.

[TylerR]

So I'm not going to lie, this new design has me rethinking these collator plates in general. At a minimum I am going to also change the large rifle bullet plate. With the small plate I am not sure it matters.

I really can't wait to get you guys trying all these different possible combinations. To be honest, I have printed out so many plates I am going to need a second job to pay for the plastic. lol

[lablover]

So I'm not going to lie, this new design has me rethinking these collator plates in general. At a minimum I am going to also change the large rifle bullet plate. With the small plate I am not sure it matters.

How are you able to sleep? Does that mind ever turn off?

[TylerR]

How are you able to sleep? Does that mind ever turn off?

Haha, sometimes it aint easy. That's why they invented beer. :)
I can't lie, 3d cad in general is a bit of a passion, and as a programmer for 20 years messing with OpenScad is a whole nother world. The programming part is easy for me, its all the damn math I struggle with. lol

[TylerR]

So I kept the original large rifle bullet plate, but added two other long bullet plates. Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Long_1_#4 and Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Long_2_#4.

[djinnpb]

Haha, sometimes it aint easy. That's why they invented beer.

Oh man! Isn't that the truth! Mmmm beer!


So I kept the original large rifle bullet plate, but added two other long bullet plates. Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Long_1_#4 and Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Long_2_#4.

I can't wait to try that out! Got the long plate #4 going. So funny bit apparently I added a new new CR10v2 to the mix and it slightly over on the x and y so the 300bo brass plate is a bit snug so will need to clean it up and calibrate.

[GWS]

I use a CR-10v2.....love it, but the bed and frame did not come square and Z was not level. It wasn't hard to remedy that, but it has to be done. A level and a square is your friend. Just a word to the wise

[noacess]

Of course my print failed 9 hours in with a print bed temp failure. Time to check out the thermistor.

[TylerR]

Of course my print failed 9 hours in with a print bed temp failure. Time to check out the thermistor.

Man I really hate when stuff like that happens. I had a base fail after like 15 hours and its just such a waste. I also put my printer on a ups backup to handle any power outages during these long prints.

[TylerR]

No having great success with my long bullet slide. I am redesigning it right now to see if I can get it working.

[GWS]

TylerR: That's the only weakness in 3d printing for prototyping....harder to tinker with. I'd be grinding off what didn't work and forming 5 minute epoxy putty in another shape to try...for the prototype only. Prototypes don't have to be pretty.

Speaking of pretty, my base finished ...... 39 hours was a bad guess on IdeaMaker's part. 44 hours. Probably due to the "adaptive" thicknesses maybe? They've been pretty close for normal prints. Best looking print I've done. Pictures later today.

Was it perfect.....it is BEAUTIFUL! So mostly yes, except for the two sharp corners either side of the slider.....they both raised off the base again, but I desided the fix was easy since layers above the groove were perfect, and the rise was maybe 1/8". Don't know why, the rest of the base was a bit hard to break loose, even. I don't get it. Time to get out a file and shape that groove the last 1/2" inch.

Speaking of "adaptive"? IdeaMaker also has "adaptive infill". That's interesting. With it turned on the software decides on infill density, and towards the top of a print density gets denser so that the top solid layers are smoother.

I can relate to that. This latest print's only negative is that the surface the collator wheel rides on isn't as smooth as I'd prefer due to the 18% infill. I thought 4 layers over it would smooth it out more than 2 layers, but I didn't see any difference.

Oh! BTW! the Dayton motors fit absolutely perfect! So add them to the list for the EZ-ZGMP38 base.

[Jekyll]

Printed last week
Hopefully get it put together later this month
Thanks for the work fellas!

271231

[noacess]

No having great success with my long bullet slide. I am redesigning it right now to see if I can get it working.

Inspiration is the mother of invention:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQUcjVnAGfs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2p-tJ66wjTI

[lablover]

Just finished the .223 die....absolutely perfect, zero sanding, trimming...nothing. Oh yea,I’m gonna like this!

[lablover]

TylerR: That's the only weakness in 3d printing for prototyping....harder to tinker with. I'd be grinding off what didn't work and forming 5 minute epoxy putty in another shape to try...for the prototype only. Prototypes don't have to be pretty.

Speaking of pretty, my base finished ...... 39 hours was a bad guess on IdeaMaker's part. 44 hours. Probably due to the "adaptive" thicknesses maybe? They've been pretty close for normal prints. Best looking print I've done. Pictures later today.

Was it perfect.....it is BEAUTIFUL! So mostly yes, except for the two sharp corners either side of the slider.....they both raised off the base again, but I desided the fix was easy since layers above the groove were perfect, and the rise was maybe 1/8". Don't know why, the rest of the base was a bit hard to break loose, even. I don't get it. Time to get out a file and shape that groove the last 1/2" inch.

Speaking of "adaptive"? IdeaMaker also has "adaptive infill". That's interesting. With it turned on the software decides on infill density, and towards the top of a print density gets denser so that the top solid layers are smoother.

I can relate to that. This latest print's only negative is that the surface the collator wheel rides on isn't as smooth as I'd prefer due to the 18% infill. I thought 4 layers over it would smooth is out more than 2 layers, but I didn't see any difference.

Oh! BTW! the Dayton motors fit absolutely perfect! So add them to the list for the EZ-ZGMP38 base.


Hey GWS
I’m surprised your prints are lifting. I can tell you what I do with the exact same bed. I took it to the sink and cleaned it well with soap and water. Then I use this stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Magigoo-Pen-All-One-Adhesive/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=E981W75XYI4V&dchild=1&keywords=magigoo&qid=1605133644&sprefix=Maggig%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVUxVMENKV1RENllLJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjg0NDg0MVlMT1BaV1VMNjRTNyZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDA5Mzk0MUFLVDFMRkJXVThMNyZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05 vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Last forever and when it gets funky I wash the plate off and do it over again. I put a lite coat where the print is going before every print. When the bed cools the print comes right off. I know creality does not recommend it but it works. They also don’t recommend using acetone as well sooooo. Ever since I started using it I have never ever had a print lift. Again, this is with the same bed you have. Also bed temp is 50 deg c

[GWS]

Hey GWS
I’m surprised your prints are lifting. I can tell you what I do with the exact same bed. I took it to the sink and cleaned it well with soap and water. Then I use this stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Magigoo-Pen-All-One-Adhesive/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=E981W75XYI4V&dchild=1&keywords=magigoo&qid=1605133644&sprefix=Maggig%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVUxVMENKV1RENllLJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjg0NDg0MVlMT1BaV1VMNjRTNyZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDA5Mzk0MUFLVDFMRkJXVThMNyZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05 vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Last forever and when it gets funky I wash the plate off and do it over again. I put a lite coat where the print is going before every print. When the bed cools the print comes right off. I know creality does not recommend it but it works. They also don’t recommend using acetone as well sooooo. Ever since I started using it I have never ever had a print lift. Again, this is with the same bed you have. Also bed temp is 50 deg c

The acetone worked for all of the print except the two sharp corners.....heck the rest of it I had to use an inverted chisel to start the lift after the bed was cold! And there's just about as many methods as users! I'll probably buy some of your goo too.:) But I'm happy with the print.....all it took was a utility knife to carve the slide slots in the corners a little and they work perfect.

Here's the finished pictures! Notice the flat bands around the bucket and the glossy ones. .2mm and .12mm bands....the latter were glossier. But it looks great to me!

https://i.postimg.cc/XNLHVv7m/IMG-3663.jpg
Above: If you look close you can see the two lifted corners....but that was a minor fix. Knowing that the Nozzle doesn't lift even if there is a minor corner lift, means some layers are even thinner until the level equals out, so the error didn't continue very high. The whitish areas in each corner is where I trimmed the grooves so the slides slide in......wasn't a big deal, obviously. I'm thankful, as I've seen (and experienced) way worse.
https://i.postimg.cc/KjG0n6Q0/IMG-3664.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/VvKD4KVm/IMG-3665.jpg

And for noaccess who was asking about Motors....as I posted to TylerR, I'm happy to report that the motor I have fits absolutely perfect and it's a Dayton, not a EZ-ZGMP38. Bet most of these similar motors are based on the same specs. I just have to find two more nuts! Why is it that the parts drawers are always just one or two short of what I need?....always....

[lablover]

Yea that’s a pretty awesome print for sure

[GWS]

Yea that’s a pretty awesome print for sure

After enduring another 5 hours past the projected finish....44 hours....it better be!;)

TylerR, Creality, and IdeaMaker (and RedlegEd behind the scenes coaching, plus his Acetone save) get the credit. This 3DP beginner is appreciative!!

[lablover]

I have a question and a request. Question first. I need to make a collator plate for .32 acp. These bullets are tiny to say the least. .312 diameter and 9.32mm tall for the 60 gr and 12.45mm tall for the 85 gr. Should I just use the standard pistol bullet height for the collator plate? Or try to adjust the height. I can see those little 60 gr bullets wanting to go sideways and getting jammed between the collator plate and bowl wall.

Request for Tyler . And, this is by no means pressing as I already have one but your design seems to be working so much better for me. How hard would it be to make a die for .32 acp. You can see the specs above and also to add to that my lead is .314 diameter. Again, not a huge deal if you can’t .

Joe

[o416]

Hi Tyler,

Your base has two holes for the ramp whereas the ramp itself has only one hole. Did I miss something? Loving your design btw :)

Thx!

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,

Your base has two holes for the ramp whereas the ramp itself has only one hole. Did I miss something? Loving your design btw :)

Thx!

Yes, I removed the second hole because it was pointless since the ramp sits in a channel now. Just use the center hole and you'll be good. :)

[TylerR]

I have a question and a request. Question first. I need to make a collator plate for .32 acp. These bullets are tiny to say the least. .312 diameter and 9.32mm tall for the 60 gr and 12.45mm tall for the 85 gr. Should I just use the standard pistol bullet height for the collator plate? Or try to adjust the height. I can see those little 60 gr bullets wanting to go sideways and getting jammed between the collator plate and bowl wall.

Request for Tyler . And, this is by no means pressing as I already have one but your design seems to be working so much better for me. How hard would it be to make a die for .32 acp. You can see the specs above and also to add to that my lead is .314 diameter. Again, not a huge deal if you can’t .

Joe

With the collator plate, the diameter of the caliber has more to do with sideways bullets then the height of the plate. If you are concerned about sideways bullets you need to set the caliber to be just slightly over the actual diameter of the bullet, keeping in mind it adds 1.2mm by default.

I can look to make a .32 version of the dropper, but you will have to give me a bit as I am struggling with these long rifle bullet plates at the moment.

[o416]

So I printed the base at Standard Quality (0.2mm) and the ramp at Super Quality (0.16mm) and the damn hole won't align lol

3D printing is so frustrating when it comes to accuracy :(

I printed the ramp vertically as opposed to horizontally but I doubt it matters.

[wrinkles]

TylerR, I downloaded your files and printed out the 9mm bullet feeder dies. The feed die body will not screw into my Dillon 650 or Lee Pro 1000. They go in about 1/3 of inch and stick. I've printed out two of them with the same results. Printer is an Anet et4+ 40 fill, pla no supports. I printed out another feeder die I found on thingyverse and that one screw on. Is there some sizing I need to do on your's? Don't like the other version because I can't fit a drop tube on it.

271312

[Falconpunch]

I hope this helps someone, wiring is not my thing and took me a bit to figure it out. This works and can explain more if need.

https://i.imgur.com/fD1SGizl.png

[Falconpunch]

TylerR, I downloaded your files and printed out the 9mm bullet feeder dies. The feed die body will not screw into my Dillon 650 or Lee Pro 1000. They go in about 1/3 of inch and stick. I've printed out two of them with the same results. Printer is an Anet et4+ 40 fill, pla no supports. I printed out another feeder die I found on thingyverse and that one screw on. Is there some sizing I need to do on your's? Don't like the other version because I can't fit a drop tube on it.

271312

Mine fit in my 550/Hornady ap. I used PLA .2 LH.

[TylerR]

TylerR, I downloaded your files and printed out the 9mm bullet feeder dies. The feed die body will not screw into my Dillon 650 or Lee Pro 1000. They go in about 1/3 of inch and stick. I've printed out two of them with the same results. Printer is an Anet et4+ 40 fill, pla no supports. I printed out another feeder die I found on thingyverse and that one screw on. Is there some sizing I need to do on your's? Don't like the other version because I can't fit a drop tube on it.


I print mine with .4 nozzle and .12 layer height and they screw in perfect. So far other users have said they have not had problems, so I would try printing them using fine settings.

[TylerR]

So I printed the base at Standard Quality (0.2mm) and the ramp at Super Quality (0.16mm) and the damn hole won't align lol

3D printing is so frustrating when it comes to accuracy :(

I printed the ramp vertically as opposed to horizontally but I doubt it matters.

I print the ramp with the long flat side (the one with the hole) on the build plate.

[GWS]

TylerR, I downloaded your files and printed out the 9mm bullet feeder dies. The feed die body will not screw into my Dillon 650 or Lee Pro 1000. They go in about 1/3 of inch and stick. I've printed out two of them with the same results. Printer is an Anet et4+ 40 fill, pla no supports. I printed out another feeder die I found on thingyverse and that one screw on. Is there some sizing I need to do on your's? Don't like the other version because I can't fit a drop tube on it.

If you know somebody who has a 7/8" x 14 thread die, you could screw that on carefully and maybe save you a reprint. Lots of learning curve on threads, and the fine setting make a HUGE difference there and most likely where the ball bearings seat as well. What slicer be ye using....?;)

[lablover]

With the collator plate, the diameter of the caliber has more to do with sideways bullets then the height of the plate. If you are concerned about sideways bullets you need to set the caliber to be just slightly over the actual diameter of the bullet, keeping in mind it adds 1.2mm by default.

I can look to make a .32 version of the dropper, but you will have to give me a bit as I am struggling with these long rifle bullet plates at the moment.

No worries at all. I have one but it’s nowhere near as good as your design. Thanks Tyler

[lablover]

I print mine with .4 nozzle and .12 layer height and they screw in perfect. So far other users have said they have not had problems, so I would try printing them using fine settings.

I’ve also been printing the dies at .12 and the fit is exceptional!

I’m finding myself printing at .12 and .16 most of the time now. Less hassle for parts that need to fit together.

[wrinkles]

I was using .2 layer height. I'll try .12 I did a lot of sanding on the threads and was able to get it to screw in. Also had to sand the inside wall and the outer tube on the inner tube to get the two parts to fit. I then sanded the ID on the inner tube so that the bullet would drop. Got it working. Thanks all.

[Rage 01]

I was using .2 layer height. I'll try .12 I did a lot of sanding on the threads and was able to get it to screw in. Also had to sand the inside wall and the outer tube on the inner tube to get the two parts to fit. I then sanded the ID on the inner tube so that the bullet would drop. Got it working. Thanks all.

What this means is that your machine is not calibrated the same as TylerR.
The simple way to fix it is to reduce the size by 1% in your slicer. But remember to reduce both pieces not just the out side one.
I hope this helps.

[TylerR]

What this means is that your machine is not calibrated the same as TylerR.
The simple way to fix it is to reduce the size by 1% in your slicer. But remember to reduce both pieces not just the out side one.
I hope this helps.

Setting everything else aside, The inner diameter of that 9mm die is exactly 9.5mm, according to the 3D cad and the STL file. that is .5mm of clearance to allow for variations in the printer as well as the actual bullet diameter (for instance sizing to .357 which would be 9.0678mm) Programming any more tolerance in to the actual design just causes issues the other way for printers that have more accuracy, because then every part would have too much play.

[wrinkles]

Just realized while going to the settings. I was messing with layers other settings while printing some stuff for my son and forgot to set everything back to normal once done. I'll have to try body again now that I have my default settings. I had doubled the thickness of the outer wall.

[o416]

Tyler, just to confirm, the DAA spacer is used with the drop tube if you are using DAA feeder dies right?

What are the drop tube bases designed to fit on without the coupler?

Thx man!

[Rage 01]

Setting everything else aside, The inner diameter of that 9mm die is exactly 9.5mm, according to the 3D cad and the STL file. that is .5mm of clearance to allow for variations in the printer as well as the actual bullet diameter (for instance sizing to .357 which would be 9.0678mm) Programming any more tolerance in to the actual design just causes issues the other way for printers that have more accuracy, because then every part would have too much play.

I agree, but reducing it by 1% will reduce 9.5mm to 9.405 which should give him just enough room to screw it in and not change much of the other features. If that does not work, I would suggest that he re-caliberates his printer to get a better printed ratio to fit. Start by printing a 30x30 cube and measure all 3 sides to see how close they are to being actually 30mm square.

Here is a great video on calibrating you 3D printer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGI

[lablover]

I went thru the same as wrinkles and went back and re calibrated the machine. I also created profiles specific for my bullet feeder parts. I just use those profiles now for everything bullet feeder. Works like a charm. I’m sure everyone knows this but we fiddle a lot with settings etc. once you find one that works well save the profile and use that profile every time you make parts for the bullet feeder.

[TylerR]

I agree, but reducing it by 1% will reduce 9.5mm to 9.405 which should give him just enough room to screw it in and not change much of the other features. If that does not work, I would suggest that he re-caliberates his printer to get a better printed ratio to fit. Start by printing a 30x30 cube and measure all 3 sides to see how close they are to being actually 30mm square.

Here is a great video on calibrating you 3D printer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGI

Apologies, I quoted you by accident. i don't disagree with anything you said :)

[TylerR]

Tyler, just to confirm, the DAA spacer is used with the drop tube if you are using DAA feeder dies right?

What are the drop tube bases designed to fit on without the coupler?

Thx man!

The drop tubes are designed to interface directly with DAA dies. The spacer was just something I created that changes where bullets drop in relation to the light sensor, in case they happen to fall exactly where light is still allowed to shine through.

[o416]

The drop tubes are designed to interface directly with DAA dies. The spacer was just something I created that changes where bullets drop in relation to the light sensor, in case they happen to fall exactly where light is still allowed to shine through.

Thanks man!

[o416]

Is this the extra large spring?
https://www.doublealpha.biz/ca/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring

How much larger is it than the large here?
https://www.doublealpha.biz/ca/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor