Making that Bullet Collator

[nhyrum]

All I used was a spring from a pen that I had around the house. It worked fine.I too commandeered the spring from a pen

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[gnafin]

cdstang found this motor which looks promising.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10RPM-Metal-Geared-Motor-High-Torque-Gearbox-Geared-Electric-Drive-Motor-DC12V/223709217070?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLI CE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200603055202%26meid%3D61 288979fec348d79781ffa0ed2c2850%26pid%3D101111%26rk %3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D122537976758 %26itm%3D223709217070%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2 563228&_trksid=p2563228.c101111.m2109

I went ahead and added a body that will fit that motor. Depending on how it is oriented it will interfere with the other mount holes by a few mm, so I made it possible to orient in 3 different directions.

It has been posted. I went ahead and changed the link to a folder so the link will remain active now.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

Tyler, did you get that motor yet? and if you did how did it work?

[TylerR]

Tyler, did you get that motor yet? and if you did how did it work?

I have not purchased that motor so I can not speak to it. I believe cdstang was considering it.

[gnafin]

I have not purchased that motor so I can not speak to it. I believe cdstang was considering it.

Well i did order it, when it comes in i will let ya all know how it is.

[HuskJ]

Basically when it came time for the transport pieces I couldn’t figure out what all the different STL files were so I just designed my own. (Note that I’ve used CAD for decades)

I bought an Extension Spring for the MBR. This came with not only the spring but also a coupler for joining to another spring. What your seeing there is a 3d printed piece that the coupler simply slides into. It fits tightly but is also secured by a 6mm set screw (5.2mm hole tapped at 6mm).

In this case I used OpenSCAD to design these parts. It’s very simple software if you know basic programming (and a bit of math). I’d be glad to share the OpenSCAD files but realize I only spent a few hours on my coding to whip out these parts. Again in my situation it was just faster for me to design from scratch rather than trying to analyze a bunch of STL files.

Can I get your STL files?

[n10sivern]

Who has made their own output springs. I know the 1/2” OD stainless brake line protector is supposed to be a replacement for the large output spring, but what about the small? Will 3/8” work? Anybody got pics of their homemade output springs?

[nhyrum]

Who has made their own output springs. I know the 1/2” OD stainless brake line protector is supposed to be a replacement for the large output spring, but what about the small? Will 3/8” work? Anybody got pics of their homemade output springs?While I didn't make my own, I got a screen door hinge basically from Lowe's for 5 bucks. 18 inches long with a 9/16 od I think it was, which, stretched just a tad, fit perfect. It was only a 2lb spring.

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[erwos]

Glorious victory: https://youtu.be/UI1u2Rlxl6I

[n10sivern]

Glorious victory: https://youtu.be/UI1u2Rlxl6I

Congrats! I’m jealous. I’m still printing and waiting on parts to arrive.

[erwos]

Congrats! I’m jealous. I’m still printing and waiting on parts to arrive.
It was a pretty complex project, especially using the light barrier. I've done a quick post about how it went down for me:
https://thehebrewhammer.net/2020/09/01/my-openbulletfeeder-build/

[AR-Bossman]

I've watched this video like 5 times and I can't tell what is making the bullets flip. Normally the nose down ones "fall" off the ledge and are maneuvered into the upright position.

[Rage 01]

Who has made their own output springs. I know the 1/2” OD stainless brake line protector is supposed to be a replacement for the large output spring, but what about the small? Will 3/8” work? Anybody got pics of their homemade output springs?

I got some of this stuff. But remember you need the id of the tube not the od like I did the first time. Other than that it works great, but don't pick the free shipping you will get it 3 months later. Pay a little bit on the shipping its worth it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7c604c4dmmo Juq

[erwos]

I've watched this video like 5 times and I can't tell what is making the bullets flip. Normally the nose down ones "fall" off the ledge and are maneuvered into the upright position.
My theory is that the flipper arm is destabilizing them and causing them to fall over. I have since adjusted the ramp slightly so that the "line" was oriented a bit closer to the bullet nose. Oddly enough, it didn't work at all with the turning plate pushed all the way in. Physics is weird. I assume the tilt/attitude of the bullet feeder itself is probably also interacting with all of this.

[pastera]

The flipper arm is there to push out poorly oriented bullets (not fully in the slot) and get the bullets fully against the back of the slot.
The turning plate works (along with gravity) by the upper flat supporting the base of a bullet but allowing the nose of a bullet to slide down to the lower surface and be pulled outward and horizontal.
Once the bullet is horizontal the nose strikes the turning ramp forcing the bullet back to vertica but now correctly oriented.

The nose down plate works in a similar manner except it drops any nose down bullets with the first ramp and flips everything that gets past.

The included flipper plate has a straight ramp, i made my own with a spline curve that allows a few more degrees of rotation for the nose to fall before ramping outward. It also has a hole for a screw to positively set the position making setup changes easier.

[n10sivern]

Getting there
267232

[dagamore]

How long does it normally take for the base to print, I am showing around 43 hours and 440 grams of pla, that sounds really long to me.
printer settings from Creality Slicer for Ender5
Layer Height .2mm
shell thickness .8mm
fill bottom/top 1.2mm
fill density % 45
Print Speed 75 mm/s
Filament 1.75mm
flow rate 100%
nozzle size .4mm

[AR-Bossman]

How long does it normally take for the base to print, I am showing around 43 hours and 440 grams of pla, that sounds really long to me.
printer settings from Creality Slicer for Ender5
Layer Height .2mm
shell thickness .8mm
fill bottom/top 1.2mm
fill density % 45
Print Speed 75 mm/s
Filament 1.75mm
flow rate 100%
nozzle size .4mm

Exchange walls for infill. 45% is crazy too much. 25% max. I think mine was down in the 20 range..maybe 18? Go with like 5 walls and 5 top and bottom and you will have a pretty tough unit.

[dagamore]

Thanks I knew I was doing something wrong.

[nhyrum]

Mine printed in just under 2 days. 6-8 layers and I think 10% infill.

I believe it was cnc kitchen on YouTube that showed that wall/"shell" thickness had more an effect on strength than infill.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[ggenovez]

Anyone know where I can get the scad files? I need to make changes for my motor and accept a bolt for the shell plate

[Jakenheimer]

Exchange walls for infill. 45% is crazy too much. 25% max. I think mine was down in the 20 range..maybe 18? Go with like 5 walls and 5 top and bottom and you will have a pretty tough unit.

Can I get some clarification on this? I made some creative changes when printing mine and got the time down, but I still use quite a bit of infill for strength as a rule. The idea of using a thicker shell is intriguing as my print times are pretty long and use a liberal amount of filament.
Are you saying to make the "shell thickness" and the "fill top/bottom" 5mm and reduce the "fill density %" to something around 20?
Would you recommend this for the collator plates as well?
I am just finishing a .223 plate that will be 20 hours and about 220 grams of material when done.
Thanks for the knowledge people! =]

[TylerR]

Can I get some clarification on this? I made some creative changes when printing mine and got the time down, but I still use quite a bit of infill for strength as a rule. The idea of using a thicker shell is intriguing as my print times are pretty long and use a liberal amount of filament.
Are you saying to make the "shell thickness" and the "fill top/bottom" 5mm and reduce the "fill density %" to something around 20?
Would you recommend this for the collator plates as well?
I am just finishing a .223 plate that will be 20 hours and about 220 grams of material when done.
Thanks for the knowledge people! =]

He is saying 5 walls, not 5mm thick. Wall thickness is generally .8mm by default. I think I was doing 6 walls and 30% on the main body, and they are very strong.

Honestly with the collator plates, I wouldn't bother with more then 4 walls and 15-20% infill.

[Jakenheimer]

He is saying 5 walls, not 5mm thick. Wall thickness is generally .8mm by default. I think I was doing 6 walls and 30% on the main body, and they are very strong.

Honestly with the collator plates, I wouldn't bother with more then 4 walls and 15-20% infill.

Thanks Tyler.
I would like to check my understanding of what you posted. Please correct me as necessary as I am still learning all this fun stuff and I appreciate the knowledge. Also, I am using an old version of Cura as I find it easier to manipulate the objects. I should probably update it but I am putting it off. Anyway, this version has a mm setting for the top/bottom and the sides.
If I were using the default of .8mm and planned to do 4 walls, the wall and top/bottom thickness should be set to 3.2mm.
I don't see a setting for number of walls or what not, just shell thickness measured in mm.
Again, please forgive my ignorance and thank you all for your patience!

[AR-Bossman]

Thanks Tyler.
I would like to check my understanding of what you posted. Please correct me as necessary as I am still learning all this fun stuff and I appreciate the knowledge. Also, I am using an old version of Cura as I find it easier to manipulate the objects. I should probably update it but I am putting it off. Anyway, this version has a mm setting for the top/bottom and the sides.
If I were using the default of .8mm and planned to do 4 walls, the wall and top/bottom thickness should be set to 3.2mm.
I don't see a setting for number of walls or what not, just shell thickness measured in mm.
Again, please forgive my ignorance and thank you all for your patience!

Yeah all my stuff is wall numbers not thickness. So 5 walls is 2mm... but 5 floors is 1mm I've printed off alot of these and lots of other stuff as well as youtube videos show that infill is not where the strength is at, but in wall counts. The infill does add strength, but it's not proportional to anything like added walls. The body sees a low amount of stress.

[Jakenheimer]

Yeah all my stuff is wall numbers not thickness. So 5 walls is 2mm... but 5 floors is 1mm I've printed off alot of these and lots of other stuff as well as youtube videos show that infill is not where the strength is at, but in wall counts. The infill does add strength, but it's not proportional to anything like added walls. The body sees a low amount of stress.

Interesting! Thank you for the reply.
So it seems like when we are talking about walls (and floors/ceilings?) we have 2 different factors. The walls seem to be a multiplier of the nozzle size (e.g. 1 wall =.4, 2 wall =.8 etc.) and the top/bottom is a multiplier of the layer height which in my case is .2.
It looks like I have likely been overbuilding and wasting a lot of time, energy, and material.
Thanks a bunch for sharing. With this new info I will be able to cut my time and material usage by almost half!

[n10sivern]

Anyone know where I can get the scad files? I need to make changes for my motor and accept a bolt for the shell plate

I have it. I played with it and can’t figure it out. I don’t know what values to put in.

[Lloyd Smale]

so without having to read 52 pages of posts is there anyone on here thats selling bullet feeders complete that will work with a lee processing press?

[Jakenheimer]

so without having to read 52 pages of posts is there anyone on here thats selling bullet feeders complete that will work with a lee processing press?

The only place I know of is Karl Bibb's reloading stuff on Facebook. He seems to have permission from Ammomike to sell the design. If memory serves, he had to make a modification to the design to avoid the latest lawsuit from DAA.

[n10sivern]

Can somebody please post a picture of how you are securing the LED and photosensor to the bullet drop tube?

[Michael303]

I found 2 walls, 2 bottom layers, and 3 top layers with 10-15% in-fill to be sufficient. I only go to 3 on top because it looks better. I printed the base in around 16 hours.

[TylerR]

Can somebody please post a picture of how you are securing the LED and photosensor to the bullet drop tube?

267478

[n10sivern]

Is anybody incorporating fuses? What size?
Getting there. Still waiting on items to arrive and still printing. 5 bullet feeders!
267540

[TylerR]

Is anybody incorporating fuses? What size?


I did yes. I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZZGW2F3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[n10sivern]

I did yes. I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZZGW2F3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I saw where others were running something like 250-300 mA slow blow fuses to prevent motor burn up if it gets stuck.

[gnafin]

Well i did order it, when it comes in i will let ya all know how it is.

Well the motor came in. it looks good but now i have to try to drill that hard shaft to put a roll pin in it.
i will send pictures soon.

[n10sivern]

Well the motor came in. it looks good but now i have to try to drill that hard shaft to put a roll pin in it.
i will send pictures soon.

Or use hex couplers and design your plates to accept them. That’s what I’m doing.

[gnafin]

Or use hex couplers and design your plates to accept them. That’s what I’m doing.

that is what i did with the smaller one. i just made the big one with the FC-555 motor. might just go with a straight coupler with cut off screws on either side.

[TylerR]

that is what i did with the smaller one. i just made the big one with the FC-555 motor. might just go with a straight coupler with cut off screws on either side.

How well does the motor fit to the body hole spacing? Any adjustments I need to make?

[gnafin]

How well does the motor fit to the body hole spacing? Any adjustments I need to make?

Nope, all was good.
i will send picture.

[gnafin]

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[GWS]

Thanks to this thread, I bought a new 3d printer, and printed my first one. I decided to go the hex route. The hex heads came in a sack of 4, so I used two. One I epoxied upside down into the plate....the second is mounted to the motor as usual. The heads meet in the middle of the plate pretty much.

That allowed me to both have a handle, and also allowed me to screw the plate down to the motor to keep the plate from tilting. I used a big thick washer between the base and the plate, to allow boolets to drop all the way in......since my plate wasn't quite deep enough. Less friction that way anyway.

I'm experimenting with a special plate for nose down 45 ACP so no ramp or bullet flipping is needed or used. The design required a ring mounted above to prevent boolits from dropping base side down.......IOW's, with the ring just high enough to let boolits slide under sideways, boolits can't tilt base down enough to fall where point down can and do, because of the shape of the plate's holes. The base down unfallen are knocked back to the bottom where they often just fall in nose down or again come up to get knocked back down until they do fall right.

The hole shape also required a modification to the bullet knocker, and a notch in the base, otherwise it would bind up and stop because of the sharp angle of the holes.

It's not finished yet, but here's a little video to show you the concept. Works quite well even in preliminaries.....not perfect, but close, just needs mounted and the top ring adjusted just a little.....


https://youtu.be/vy4MCSlk9gQ

The following picture shows the bullet drop hole shape.....taken during the infill part of the print.....

https://i.postimg.cc/prJ6yxzz/IMG-3525.jpg

Thanks, AmmoMike and TylerR for all your generous time and expertise that you have shared. Same with RedlegEd and AR-Bossman.....could not have done this without you.....Just awesome people. When I get it mounted permanently, I will post a working video.....if.....it works as good as I think it will. ;)

Of course I'm posting this not as an expert, but as one hoping the experts will see and pass on any flaws in the plan or suggestions for improvement.

Already looking ahead to the next one........the upsized one thanks to TylerR, for collating .223 and .308. Unfortunately, it will have to use a ramp to flip bullets....so far....

[erwos]

Anyone have an Amazon recommendation for:
1. Small switch for bullet dropper assembly?
2. On/off switch for the bullet dropper as a whole?

I'm building out the 223 case feeder version. Early progress is promising (looks like it drops correctly no matter what the case orientation is!), but trying to optimize my costs a bit this time around.

[TylerR]

Thanks to this thread, I bought a new 3d printer, and printed my first one. I decided to go the hex route. The hex heads came in a sack of 4, so I used two. One I epoxied upside down into the plate....the second is mounted to the motor as usual. The heads meet in the middle of the plate pretty much.

That allowed me to both have a handle, and also allowed me to screw the plate down to the motor to keep the plate from tilting. I used a big thick washer between the base and the plate, to allow boolets to drop all the way in......since my plate wasn't quite deep enough. Less friction that way anyway.

I'm experimenting with a special plate for nose down 45 ACP so no ramp or bullet flipping is needed or used. The design required a ring mounted above to prevent boolits from dropping base side down.......IOW's, with the ring just high enough to let boolits slide under sideways, boolits can't tilt base down enough to fall where point down can and do, because of the shape of the plate's holes. The base down unfallen are knocked back to the bottom where they often just fall in nose down or again come up to get knocked back down until they do fall right.

The hole shape also required a modification to the bullet knocker, and a notch in the base, otherwise it would bind up and stop because of the sharp angle of the holes.

It's not finished yet, but here's a little video to show you the concept. Works quite well even in preliminaries.....not perfect, but close, just needs mounted and the top ring adjusted just a little.....

The following picture shows the bullet drop hole shape.....taken during the infill part of the print.....

Thanks, AmmoMike and TylerR for all your generous time and expertise that you have shared. Same with RedlegEd and AR-Bossman.....could not have done this without you.....Just awesome people. When I get it mounted permanently, I will post a working video.....if.....it works as good as I think it will. ;)

Of course I'm posting this not as an expert, but as one hoping the experts will see and pass on any flaws in the plan or suggestions for improvement.;)

Already looking ahead to the next one........the upsized one thanks to TylerR, for collating .223 and .308. Unfortunately, it will have to use a ramp to flip bullets.

Looks great GWS. I love seeing people try new concepts. Definitely interested in seeing the final version.

[Michael303]

Never being satisfied with good enough I've spent the last couple weeks remodeling and tweaking the original design. Initially I started making some small changes with the goal of eliminating some of the hardware but I eventually got around to making it more modular and bigger to make better use of my 200x200 mm build plate.

I separated the side walls from the base mostly so I didn't have to reprint everything if I wanted to make some changes to the base. The side walls are plenty strong at 3 perimiters (1.2 mm) thick.

I designed printable spring flipper to eliminate the spring and screw. It works well on initial testing but I need to tweak the shape of the tip a bit because it's been knocking out upside down bullets.

The drop tube spring adapter is hardware free on the top end. The connector just snaps into the base and the spring threads into the connector. The bottom end used a long lever limit switch like the one that comes on the MBF but a straight arm that just snaps in. I don't have any bullets smaller than 124gn but I tried a 1/4" driver bit that weighed 73gn that went through easily. I need to find something around 50gn to test.

The flipping plate adjusts in and out with a screw rather than using a set screw so it's easier to tune.

The flipping ramp is a separate piece so you can adjust it out or replace it with a taller one if necessary.

This takes 6 cap head screws, 2 set screws, 4 nuts, plus the electronics to assemble.

https://i.imgur.com/30K0q0G.png
https://i.imgur.com/D9xFU1F.png
https://i.imgur.com/BemdA6i.png

Movie ---> https://imgur.com/bW6tkZj
Movie with flipper ---> https://imgur.com/zuouuAZ

Any feedback is appreciated.

[MavenBlack]

OK, new here. She's up and running. The grey parts are from the original design. The yellow are all redesigned parts.

267753

Here it shows the whole thing. It's a variable speed with the a light sensor. Dillon 650 and a Hornady 9mm bullet drop die.

267754

The first change I made was to get rid of the spring. Aside from the numerous questions on sources of a spring, it just seemed more in keeping with the whole concept to print something. The tube is 5/8" thin wall plastic tubing that I originally had to load "sleeves" of bullets for the drop die. The connection to the feeder is a swivel quick disconnect. I greatly cut down on the adapter for the Hornady die as well. The added bonus is the structure is rigid so it provides a second point of support for the feeder. It's disconnected here in this photo.

267756

Next change was the mount. I saw people attaching to the case feeder post, which I liked. The bracket for the case tub wasn't angled properly and had a lot of slop. So, 3/8 all thread to a pipe clamp on one end (with a bushing). On the other end, I made the pivot toothed with a hand knob so that the tip angle can be changed easily as well as removing the bin without removing the arm if desired. You can see the teeth here.

267757

The last item was the control box. I probably spent the most time here. Design of the box itself so it was form fitting. The motor, LED, and photosensor are all connected via JST connectors which meant a PC Board for the male side of things. The box contains that PCB, the photosensor relay, and a MOSFET motor control I made so the motor speed can be varied with the potentiometer. Using the MOSFET allows the speed to go all the way down to nothing and doesn't get hot.

[erwos]

The drop tube spring adapter is hardware free on the top end. The connector just snaps into the base and the spring threads into the connector. The bottom end used a long lever limit switch like the one that comes on the MBF but a straight arm that just snaps in. I don't have any bullets smaller than 124gn but I tried a 1/4" driver bit that weighed 73gn that went through easily. I need to find something around 50gn to test.
I like your mods! What switch did you use for this?

[Michael303]

I like your mods! What switch did you use for this?

Thanks. It's the same style as the on on the MBF dropper. This is the switch I used: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/V7-2B17D8-162/480-5266-ND/1825046

I think it might work down to at least 50gn projectiles but I don't have any to test. Maybe I'll print some dummy rounds at different weights to test. There are a few options on Digikey that take less force to actuate that would work with little to no modification to the drop tube.


Michael! Good design.....separating the base with the sides makes good sense to me, and it works perfect base down without the bullet knocker......so why use it at all? Neat idea for the knocker tho. You going to keep the files close or share them.....;)

I think the bullet knocker is still needed. A few bullets got through in my testing that dropped in nose down. I might post STLs to Thingiverse when I'm done.

[Michael303]

What diameter is your base and bullet plate?

The bullet plate is currently 186 mm and the base is about 198 mm from front to back.

[erwos]

Thanks. It's the same style as the on on the MBF dropper. This is the switch I used: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/V7-2B17D8-162/480-5266-ND/1825046
Very good. I looked around for a long time, and I'm going to give these a try for my case feeder:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Switch-SNAP-Action-Miniature-SPDT-3A-125V-with-lever-Cherry-E22-55HX-2pcs/153939598655

These are the E22-55HX switches, which are 4g of operating force instead of the 2g of the recommended 85HX switches. That's not optimal, but it was the only thing I could really find that was comparable. I'm using it for the 223 case feeder, and 223 cases are about 95 grains (6 grams), so I THINK it should be heavy enough to push the switch down. Guess I'll find out!

I do like the idea some people had of using an inductive sensor; this seems like it would have the benefits of the light barrier approach without the drawbacks (complex wiring and tweaking sensitivity). Maybe if I build a third feeder...

[Michael303]

Very good. I looked around for a long time, and I'm going to give these a try for my case feeder:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Switch-SNAP-Action-Miniature-SPDT-3A-125V-with-lever-Cherry-E22-55HX-2pcs/153939598655

These are the E22-55HX switches, which are 4g of operating force instead of the 2g of the recommended 85HX switches. That's not optimal, but it was the only thing I could really find that was comparable. I'm using it for the 223 case feeder, and 223 cases are about 95 grains (6 grams), so I THINK it should be heavy enough to push the switch down. Guess I'll find out!

I do like the idea some people had of using an inductive sensor; this seems like it would have the benefits of the light barrier approach without the drawbacks (complex wiring and tweaking sensitivity). Maybe if I build a third feeder...

It looks like the E22-55HX switch has an operating force of 4 gram-force. My switch is 10 gram-force. Gram-force is different from grams. My switch handled a dummy round that weighed 60 grains without slowing down whatsoever. At 4 gf that switch should easily actuate for 95 gr and much smaller.

The proximity and light sensors are neat but my preference was for the lever switch since it seemed like the most simple option.

[Michael303]

The whole reason I showed my pre 3D printer project here was to demonstrate just how simple the proximity sensor is.

That makes sense. I've never messed with prox sensors so I just went with what I know. The long lever on the switch I used should work with a wide variety of projectile sizes but I only load 9mm for now.

[n10sivern]

I'm having issues with my photo sensor module. I can't figure out how to get power out that works. The module is getting power and I can hear it click when I cover the sensor and the green light turns on.
This is the module I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M67V8AQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the wiring diagram on Amazon
268054
268055

These are pictures from another Amazon item that looks like the one I ordered.
https://us.amazon.com/GEREE-Control-Photoresistor-Module-Detection/dp/B00PC1TKD0
268056
268057

[TylerR]

I'm having issues with my photo sensor module. I can't figure out how to get power out that works. The module is getting power and I can hear it click when I cover the sensor and the green light turns on.


Not sure if you have seen this but here is a wiring schematic put together by AmmoMike. Hopefully this helps.

268062

Try this:
268065

[n10sivern]

Not sure if you have seen this but here is a wiring schematic put together by AmmoMike. Hopefully this helps.

268062

Try this:
268065

Yeah. I tried to follow his schematics

[n10sivern]

I got it working. I had to wire it like this. Don't ask me why this works but it does. Now I just have to figure out how to make collator plates for the hex.
268088

[n10sivern]

is this correct for 9mm plate?
268090

[Fil131]

Hello everyone, I swore I was registered on this forum but found out I'd never registered so this is officially my first post. I read through everything and have ordered parts and a Prusa MK3S and a bunch of filament. Can't wait to make bullet feeder/collators for my press(Also on order) finally getting a Dillon press!!!

I want to take the time to thank everyone for their contributions especially @AmmoMike83, @TylerR, I know I'm missing some of the huge contributors but it was a lot of reading.

Can you guys look over my parts and let me know if I messed up on any of it? I also will be buying the hex attachments. Will the Prusa be able to print the bigger stuff? I've never owned or played with a 3D printer before.

Here's what I have currently;
Lighted on/off switch
https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Rocker-Control-Multi-color-optional/dp/B07V5CTJWY

Momentary reverse button
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a16121500ux0188-Shaped-Momentary-Button/dp/B06XSBYNM7

Motor
https://www.amazon.com/Bringsmart-JGY-370-Turbine-Electric-Self-locking/dp/B078JHVJYL

1/2" brake line protector
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01MTV5UW4

3/8" brake line protector
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01N59WJ96

LEDs
https://www.amazon.com/LAOMAO-Bulbs-White-Pre-Wired-Parties/dp/B00H98OS2W

Motor speed controller
https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-1803BKW-Controller-Adjustable-Driver/dp/B00RYKR83Q

Light sensor switch
https://www.amazon.com/Solu-Photosensitive-Resistance-Headlight-Photoelectric/dp/B00ZWPKKJE

[TylerR]

Hello everyone, I swore I was registered on this forum but found out I'd never registered so this is officially my first post. I read through everything and have ordered parts and a Prusa MK3S and a bunch of filament. Can't wait to make bullet feeder/collators for my press(Also on order) finally getting a Dillon press!!!

I want to take the time to thank everyone for their contributions especially @AmmoMike83, @TylerR, I know I'm missing some of the huge contributors but it was a lot of reading.

Can you guys look over my parts and let me know if I messed up on any of it? I also will be buying the hex attachments. Will the Prusa be able to print the bigger stuff? I've never owned or played with a 3D printer before.

Here's what I have currently;
Lighted on/off switch


Looks good to me. Not sure what the momentary reverse button is for. Also keep in mind that the JGY-370 is not really strong enough to power my larger feeder.

[Fil131]

Looks good to me. Not sure what the momentary reverse button is for. Also keep in mind that the JGY-370 is not really strong enough to power my larger feeder.

Thanks @TylerR, I thought I was getting the correct motor. Is there a better option I need to purchase? I thought I'd add the momentary reverse for any jams. Is that not at all necessary? I saw it on another post or YT video and thought it was a possibly useful add-on. If it's not going to benefit the build I'll leave it out and have them for other possible projects. What guage wire is recommended for the wiring?

[TylerR]

Thanks @TylerR, I thought I was getting the correct motor. Is there a better option I need to purchase? I thought I'd add the momentary reverse for any jams. Is that not at all necessary? I saw it on another post or YT video and thought it was a possibly useful add-on. If it's not going to benefit the build I'll leave it out and have them for other possible projects. What guage wire is recommended for the wiring?

If you check out the bottom of page 52 gnafin is testing out this new motor I designed a main body around. He has some pictures of it mounted up. Maybe he will chime in if he has any new info on it. I myself have not used it but it should have plenty of power for the larger feeder.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10RPM-Metal-Geared-Motor-High-Torque-Gearbox-Geared-Electric-Drive-Motor-DC12V/223709217070?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLI CE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200603055202%26meid%3D61 288979fec348d79781ffa0ed2c2850%26pid%3D101111%26rk %3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D122537976758 %26itm%3D223709217070%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2 563228&_trksid=p2563228.c101111.m2109

I am not sure on the usefulness of the reverse switch. If I get a jam I just turn the feeder off and clear it. most of the jams I get would not clear by reversing the motor.

[Fil131]

Ok awesome, thanks for the quick responses. I'll wait to see if @gnafin responds or anyone else who may have tried it. I don't have my press or printer yet anyhow so I have time.

Are you guys using 12ga wiring for the electrical? Any recommended fuses as well?

[TylerR]

Ok awesome, thanks for the quick responses. I'll wait to see if @gnafin responds or anyone else who may have tried it. I don't have my press or printer yet anyhow so I have time.

Are you guys using 12ga wiring for the electrical? Any recommended fuses as well?

12ga wire is a bit of overkill with the amps involved. Shouldn't be pulling more than 5-6 amps at 12volts. So 18 gauge wire should suffice.

I added a simple 12v 5 amp auto fuse but probably not necessary.

268261

[Fil131]

Haha ok, I was looking at another chart at some point and may have just overestimated the amps a little or a ton.

[GWS]

I am not sure on the usefulness of the reverse switch. If I get a jam I just turn the feeder off and clear it. most of the jams I get would not clear by reversing the motor.

Any jamming I've gotten so far is from an elephant foot in the first layer or two in a plate print and/or running the motor too fast. It is annoying when I turn it off and the motor is immovable, binding a bullet tight against the hole. Reversing would just bind it on the other end unless you could have a push button momentary switch and just bump it to release....I may try that if I can find a small enough one. I made the minimum size box for my speed control except depth....so maybe there's room under it....;)

Obviously, beveling the first layer or three would prevent the elephant foot.....will try that too....but for the plates I already printed, I used a sharp scalpel to deal with it.

I have a new proximity switch....and the picture below shows how simple it is to wire using the tiny motor speed control I have.......works perfect without a big box or additional pc board. The proximity switch detects any bullet within 8 mm from the yellow end and turns it off.

https://i.postimg.cc/zBXn2pDg/IMG-3539.jpg

Above: The IC board terminals from the left are -motor (blue sensor lead); +motor (red sensor lead and brown motor lead); then +12v powersupply; and right end, -12v powersupply. The left over leads, -motor and - black sensor leads are soldered together and insulated. Any lead or copper within 8mm (a quarter inch) is detected.

The box for the little speed switch is printing below: It's about the same size as a slider and will mount under the bullet knocker unobtrusively.

https://i.postimg.cc/G27vWY9S/IMG-3542.jpg

I will mount the box bottoms up under the base....the vented lid is faces the bottom, so the red LED on the board shines through making it easy to tell if it's on since the feeder will be mounted pretty high.

https://i.postimg.cc/pTbdpL4X/IMG-3545.jpg
Lid is recessed and slides in from one end under the tabs. I did not push it all the way in just to demonstrate how it slides in.
https://i.postimg.cc/KzP8Lyh7/IMG-3546.jpg

The print has three holes in the back for the cords, and one hole in the front for the speed control shaft.

[RedlegEd]

Hey GWS,
Very nice!
Ed

[TylerR]

GWS,

Nice job. I had the same issue with the collator plates and that slight lip on the bottom edge. My solution was the same as yours. A quick pass with an exacto knife.
Do you have a pic of the proximity switch mounted on the drop tube. Just want to see what you have going on there.

[TylerR]

Great video. Thanks for sharing that. Your logic on making it less caliber specific makes sense. Although the light sensor works very well, I do like the idea of the proximity sensor. Would love to see the finished system in action once you get it worked out.

[Fil131]

Same here as always awesome stuff from everyone.

[wrinkles]

Never being satisfied with good enough I've spent the last couple weeks remodeling and tweaking the original design. Initially I started making some small changes with the goal of eliminating some of the hardware but I eventually got around to making it more modular and bigger to make better use of my 200x200 mm build plate.

I separated the side walls from the base mostly so I didn't have to reprint everything if I wanted to make some changes to the base. The side walls are plenty strong at 3 perimiters (1.2 mm) thick.

I designed printable spring flipper to eliminate the spring and screw. It works well on initial testing but I need to tweak the shape of the tip a bit because it's been knocking out upside down bullets.

The drop tube spring adapter is hardware free on the top end. The connector just snaps into the base and the spring threads into the connector. The bottom end used a long lever limit switch like the one that comes on the MBF but a straight arm that just snaps in. I don't have any bullets smaller than 124gn but I tried a 1/4" driver bit that weighed 73gn that went through easily. I need to find something around 50gn to test.

The flipping plate adjusts in and out with a screw rather than using a set screw so it's easier to tune.

The flipping ramp is a separate piece so you can adjust it out or replace it with a taller one if necessary.

This takes 6 cap head screws, 2 set screws, 4 nuts, plus the electronics to assemble.

https://i.imgur.com/30K0q0G.png
https://i.imgur.com/D9xFU1F.png
https://i.imgur.com/BemdA6i.png

Movie ---> https://imgur.com/bW6tkZj
Movie with flipper ---> https://imgur.com/zuouuAZ

Any feedback is appreciated.

Nice modular setup. I like the idea of not having to print the entire main unit. Less is more approach is nice. Looking forward to seeing it as a remix on thingiverse.
I just got a Anet et4+ and currently looking into tinkercad to do some 3d models.

[rototerrier]

Since all of you guys are so intimately familiar with these bullet feeders, I have a question about motors. I'm a little unhappy with the speed at which my mr bulletfeeder turns. I believe it's a 5 or 5.5rpm gear motor.

I was considering going up to the 52JE50 (8.8 RPM) or the 52JE50 (12 RPM). I went ahead and ordered the 12 RPM model thinking I can just run it slower. Figure having the ability to go faster if I want is a benefit.

Anyone running the 52JE50 and if so, any issues running it slower? I probably should have asked this question before I ordered it. I originally was going to go with the 8.8, but didn't want to risk being disappointed that it wasn't fast enough.

To me, when bullet sizing with the Lee APP, I find that the 5.5 stock motor just doesn't keep up. I can see by watching the bullets fall down the shoot that it could stand to go a little faster. Probably not 12 RPM faster...but definitely something faster than 5.5.

Any thoughts?

[rototerrier]

I definitely get that there's only so much tolerance. I guess my question, more specifically, is there any disadvantage to going to a 12 RPM motor over an 8 if I'm just going to use the speed controller to slow it down? I would imagine a 12rpm motor can still be slowed down to a crawl? There are still time where I want it to go slow and, for bullet feeding, I really only need it to be a little faster.

I probably should have just gone with the 8, but they were the same price. So, as long as I can slow the 12 down enough, it probably won't matter.

[rototerrier]

It's for nose down bullet sizing. Right now I can cycle the app faster than the mbf can keep up. For reloading it's more than sufficient.

[TylerR]

I definitely get that there's only so much tolerance. I guess my question, more specifically, is there any disadvantage to going to a 12 RPM motor over an 8 if I'm just going to use the speed controller to slow it down? I would imagine a 12rpm motor can still be slowed down to a crawl? There are still time where I want it to go slow and, for bullet feeding, I really only need it to be a little faster.

I probably should have just gone with the 8, but they were the same price. So, as long as I can slow the 12 down enough, it probably won't matter.

The 12rpm makes more sense. With the speed controller you can dial it from 0-12, so more options for you. I use one of my feeders for bullet sizing in the app and once you get it dialed in its lightning quick.

[TylerR]

I have posted a new copy of download files. Here are are a few of the changes:
- Removed body for JGY motor, as the motor is just not powerful enough for the larger body so no sense in having it.
- Modified all of the drop tubes to have a more gradual slant in the top where the bullet feeds for more reliable feeding
- Added a drop tube --> DAA feeder die spacer to add height to drop tube which I found was helpful in adjusting where the bullets sit in relation to the light sensor, depending on the caliber.
- Added an extra large spring adapter that works with the spring from the DAA Output Chute. I used this larger diameter spring to reliably feed 45 cases. https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring
- Also added some length to the extra large spring adapter so the feed to the spring was more gradual to reduce issues where bullet/cases would catch on spring. I may make this modification to the other spring adapters as well.
- 45 ACP nose down brass collator plate now has the built in pivots.

Now that I have 45acp bullets and brass feeding flawlessly, I am going to move my attention to 9mm. Once I complete that process I will post additional files. My plan is to have dedicated flipper plates for each caliber to match the collator plate, so I don't have to mess with set screws to get the spacing correct.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

[Michael303]

Anyone running the 52JE50 and if so, any issues running it slower? I probably should have asked this question before I ordered it. I originally was going to go with the 8.8, but didn't want to risk being disappointed that it wasn't fast enough.


My motor is 12rpm and I've never come close to turning it all the way up. The 8.8 should be plenty fast but if it's on a speed controller the 12 will be fine too. If I had to do it over I'd probably try the 8.

Here's a video of mine.

https://i.imgur.com/hurdnJJ.mp4

[Michael303]

Nice modular setup. I like the idea of not having to print the entire main unit. Less is more approach is nice. Looking forward to seeing it as a remix on thingiverse.
I just got a Anet et4+ and currently looking into tinkercad to do some 3d models.

Thanks. I'm printing one for a buddy now and if he finds it to work as well as I have I'll probably post it up.

I've never used Tinkercad but I can highly recommend Fusion 360. The learning curve is tough but it's incredibly powerful.

[TylerR]

My motor is 12rpm and I've never come close to turning it all the way up. The 8.8 should be plenty fast but if it's on a speed controller the 12 will be fine too. If I had to do it over I'd probably try the 8.

Here's a video of mine.

https://i.imgur.com/hurdnJJ.mp4

Very nice! That is crazy fast for sure. I suspect the drop hole is larger then the original 16mm? In order to get my case nose down feeding to work I found that the drop hole had to be much larger, even when run at slower speeds.

[lablover]

Thanks. I'm printing one for a buddy now and if he finds it to work as well as I have I'll probably post it up.

I've never used Tinkercad but I can highly recommend Fusion 360. The learning curve is tough but it's incredibly powerful.

Wow, that thing moves! What motor again was that?

Also, will the hex sleeve fit on a McMaster motor? Or the original DAA motor? I have a spare motor and want to use it for Tyler new design.

[TylerR]

Here's the result of yesterday's hair pulling, and what I'm going to try to print for my proximity sensor outlet......going to turn it upright, then support the 90 where the sensor screws in....as well as interior support for the sensor threads? Any suggestions? Will it work? Learning every day with this printer.

https://i.postimg.cc/W3HZM0kV/Screenshot-proximity-sensor-outlet.png

Top threads are fitted to the Sensor, end threads for screwing in the Spring Tube.
Threads look nice......we will see if they work nice. ;)

In my experience you should not need supports for the interior threads. Just support from the build plate up. Supports in the threaded area would require a fair amount of clean up work too.

[TylerR]

Yeah, and I don't have a tap that big! What about the finger grip.....is that hanging out enough to require build plate support? This is fun....in spite of the hair pulling.;)

Yes, something would be needed there. Another option to supports is to bevel the bottom edge to 45 degrees. That allows the printer to build it up without any supports.


Exactly my experience! Which is why I asked for some sharing of his secrets!!! Never seen one that fast.....at first I though he sped up the video....had to play it again! :) You saw from my ugly picture that a bigger hole didn't work for me.....I think my plate was a lot thicker tho. On my new point down contraption, I remodeled the base and chopped out plastic down to the first solid layers to copy what I did with the Hornady.....that worked too, but I'm not running that fast.....bigger hole too would be needed!

Just curious, what calibers are you mostly feeding? I know part of my issue is .45 caliber bullets and brass are about as large as this feeder design will accommodate. So I would imagine smaller diameter bullets can be fed faster without any jamming. A longer bullet definitely contributes to more jams as well. Just takes more time to fall through the hole.

[GWS]

Yes, something would be needed there. Another option to supports is to bevel the bottom edge to 45 degrees. That allows the printer to build it up without any supports.

Just curious, what calibers are you mostly feeding? I know part of my issue is .45 caliber bullets and brass are about as large as this feeder design will accommodate. So I would imagine smaller diameter bullets can be fed faster without any jamming. A longer bullet definitely contributes to more jams as well. Just takes more time to fall through the hole.

I reload .45, 40, 357, and 9mm. and the modified Hornady collator does it all with the one plate......but no boolets.....not set up with a lead factory yet. For rifle I do .223 and .308 on my other progressive, and a little .243 on my Rock Chucker and even less .22-243 wildcat and 30-30.

So eventually I want a rifle bullet feeder. A case feeder for the Pro Chucker 7 down the road. So obviously, my little nose down design attempt is just for others, since I have no boolits to size......if it works. I just don't care for the bullies Rick sold his design to. Everybody would be buying Rick's Ramp machines if they weren't so over-priced and undersized. Now they finally make bigger ones but they are even pricier....products for the rich and most of us......aren't.....and most of the rich buy bodyguards not reloading equipment, so where does that leave them?

Bottom line, we all need to put our heads together and come up with an equal or better way to turn bullets. That patent will long survive me.

Beveling the bottom was my next thing to learn how to do in Autocad......thanks for the suggestions and experienced info! Appreciate it.

[impala68]

I'm looking for a printed Dropper die that actually functions .. I read 75% of this thread starting on pg 55 and went backwards to 18 and didn't see anything on the dropper die so I apologize if I missed it

I have 2 collators printed and running on my dillon 650s that i'm running the DAA droppers on ... those 2 machines are dedicated to 9 and 40 so it was worth spending the cash on those droppers

but my 3rd 650 is kind of an all around press that I do anything from 38 super comp, .10mm to .45, on so I don't really want to buy a DAA die for every caliber that I load once in a blue moon

I did purchase a 9mm die from karl bib but it broke before I ever installed it ... and the files I have found on thingiverse.com are either only 9mm or just don't actually work

anyone know of good stl's that actually work, before I go and reinvent the wheel and design it myself

[Fil131]

I have posted a new copy of download files. Here are are a few of the changes:
- Removed body for JGY motor, as the motor is just not powerful enough for the larger body so no sense in having it.
- Modified all of the drop tubes to have a more gradual slant in the top where the bullet feeds for more reliable feeding
- Added a drop tube --> DAA feeder die spacer to add height to drop tube which I found was helpful in adjusting where the bullets sit in relation to the light sensor, depending on the caliber.
- Added an extra large spring adapter that works with the spring from the DAA Output Chute. I used this larger diameter spring to reliably feed 45 cases. https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring
- Also added some length to the extra large spring adapter so the feed to the spring was more gradual to reduce issues where bullet/cases would catch on spring. I may make this modification to the other spring adapters as well.
- 45 ACP nose down brass collator plate now has the built in pivots.

Now that I have 45acp bullets and brass feeding flawlessly, I am going to move my attention to 9mm. Once I complete that process I will post additional files. My plan is to have dedicated flipper plates for each caliber to match the collator plate, so I don't have to mess with set screws to get the spacing correct.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

I cannot stop the JGY by hand is it definitely not powerful enough to run the bigger design?

Guess I'll have to spend a bit more bucks to get the bigger motor you have linked.

[TylerR]

I'm looking for a printed Dropper die that actually functions .. I read 75% of this thread starting on pg 55 and went backwards to 18 and didn't see anything on the dropper die so I apologize if I missed it

I have 2 collators printed and running on my dillon 650s that i'm running the DAA droppers on ... those 2 machines are dedicated to 9 and 40 so it was worth spending the cash on those droppers

but my 3rd 650 is kind of an all around press that I do anything from 38 super comp, .10mm to .45, on so I don't really want to buy a DAA die for every caliber that I load once in a blue moon

I did purchase a 9mm die from karl bib but it broke before I ever installed it ... and the files I have found on thingiverse.com are either only 9mm or just don't actually work

anyone know of good stl's that actually work, before I go and reinvent the wheel and design it myself

I haven't seen or heard of anyone running an actual printed dropper die. Sure would be nice to eliminate the cost of buying one from DAA. I have not even considered how to go about designing a reliable printed version. Do you have any links to ones you have seen on thingiverse?

[TylerR]

I cannot stop the JGY by hand is it definitely not powerful enough to run the bigger design?

Guess I'll have to spend a bit more bucks to get the bigger motor you have linked.

My experience when I tried it was it could only handle a small number of bullets in the hopper before it slowed way down. If you still want to try it and don't already have the stl for the main body I can repost it for you. In general I just felt its not the right way to go and that's why I removed it.

[Fil131]

Honestly it's no big deal, my budget isn't unlimited by any means but with all of the savings by making this I'd rather follow tried and true suggestions you guys are making. Big purchases have been made lately(MK3S, lots of filament and spare parts, Dillon RL1100 with all accessories and changeover parts for 8 calibers, and the parts to make the bullet feeder) also prefer to buy all at once on Amazon to get free shipping.

Are there any of those motors sold and shipped from US sellers? Shipping from China is crazy right now.

[TylerR]

Honestly it's no big deal, my budget isn't unlimited by any means but with all of the savings by making this I'd rather follow tried and true suggestions you guys are making. Big purchases have been made lately(MK3S, lots of filament and spare parts, Dillon RL1100 with all accessories and changeover parts for 8 calibers, and the parts to make the bullet feeder) also prefer to buy all at once on Amazon to get free shipping.

Are there any of those motors sold and shipped from US sellers? Shipping from China is crazy right now.

Original motor used by MBF. Tested and proven. Fast shipping from US. Price is the tradeoff.

https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

[Michael303]

Very nice! That is crazy fast for sure. I suspect the drop hole is larger then the original 16mm? In order to get my case nose down feeding to work I found that the drop hole had to be much larger, even when run at slower speeds.

I just double checked and the hole is 16mm. I started just making minor changes to the AM design before I ended up here and I just never had an issue with bullets hanging up in the drop tube so I never considered changing it.


Wow, that thing moves! What motor again was that?

Also, will the hex sleeve fit on a McMaster motor? Or the original DAA motor? I have a spare motor and want to use it for Tyler new design.

This is the motor I have. https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/ If I had to do it over again I might go with the 8rpm but the 12rpm is fine if it's on a speed controller. I can't speak to the hex sleeve. I just made my plate fit the McMaster shaft.


Michael303: Looks like perfection for that bullet down and caliber implementation! Good job! The spring works great too! Wondering how fast the high speed part of the video was. Bullet drop was perfect too. No hangs. Any additional info on how you handled getting those bullets to drop that fast?

Noticed your switch knob was similar to mine.....except yours was green adorned, mine red. Figures.....my machine being half green ....

Here's the result of yesterday's hair pulling, and what I'm going to try to print for my proximity sensor outlet......going to turn it upright, then support the 90 where the sensor screws in....as well as interior support for the sensor threads? Any suggestions? Will it work? Learning every day with this printer.


I couldn't say how fast it's going but it's not topped out there. The only think I can think of that might be helping them drop is that I'm running the collator between a 35 and 40 degree angle. I don't know what angle everyone else it at but it might make a difference at 45 degrees.

If you can, you should try to model stuff with about a 30 degree angle or chamfer on the bottom side of any over hang. It can be tricky to do in every situation but I rarely if ever have to use supports. If your slicer settings are half way decent your printer should easily handle 30 degree overhangs and it should work fine on both the areas you're looking at printing with supports.


Original motor used by MBF. Tested and proven. Fast shipping from US. Price is the tradeoff.

https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

That's why I went with it.

[Michael303]

So I just tried mine at full speed and it did jam a bullet in the drop but it was moving a lot faster than it was in the video I posted which is way faster than I ever run it in real life.

On another note I thought some of my fellow 3D printing nerds would appreciate a few other things I've modeled and printed for my press.

Mount for an endoscope for easy viewing of the powder and bullet drop.
https://i.imgur.com/IUA7pdd.jpg

Drop tube limit switch housing.
https://i.imgur.com/HQVcdts.jpg

Powder quick disconnect.
https://i.imgur.com/FIqWzAp.jpg

Case feed stopper.
https://i.imgur.com/he25Mbi.jpg

Primer follower hanger.
https://i.imgur.com/HEKdPgs.jpg

Hundo case gauge riser and filpper tray.
https://i.imgur.com/sdQ1stt.jpg

Anti wobble locator pins.
https://i.imgur.com/NKKerHl.jpg

[rototerrier]

Folks, I purchased a 12rpm motor from Grainger to work with my MBF and my speed controller is apparently not infinitely variable. Only slows down the motor so much, which is still faster than the stock motor's fastest speed. Works fine for most bullets but was right on the edge for longer. For my application, I think the 8.8 will work better.

For anyone interested in the 12 RPM, I have posted it for sale in S&S.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?409534-DAYTON-52JE51-Gearmotor-for-bullet-or-case-collators

Already has the roll pin installed and might work for you guys. I've knocked a few bucks off the price to make it worth it for anyone who might be interested.

[GWS]

I've not printed the bigger collator so the little motor works. But I have one of the American Daytons identical to rototerrier's, but a faster rpm model. I bought it a few years ago for another project that didn't happen. It looks nearly like the unit Michael bought at M.C., but runs really fast at 28 rpm. The little speed control I bought for mine came two in the package so I just connected one to the speedy Dayton and it slowed it down smoothly to a stop. Will use it for my next base.

My speed control...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FLJ6ZHQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How much bigger is the big base? I didn't think it was THAT much bigger than the other......certainly not nearly as big as my modified Hornady posted on this thread.

My drop tube worked great except for the sideways printed threads.....back to the drawing board...uh...computer! I found the CR-10 v2's limit. Plus I found that PLA and thin walls isn't an option for the relatively heavy proximity switch. On the upside, I did connect it all up, turned on the collator, dropped bullets, filled the tube, and it stopped.....works perfectly......will print another heavier model, in two parts.....both vertical. Lesson learned......it's pretty tho, except for the failed sideways threads & thinwall that ruined an otherwise perfect print. Oh, and I did figure out the bevels on my software, and that's awesome. Just wish I could learn a little faster. Thanks Tyler for the heads up. Certainly my mistake on the thin walls....will fix that. The vertical print on the left was an awesome perfect test thread....the right one was the important one printed sideways on the downtube....and that sucked.

https://i.postimg.cc/qq0g2fVH/IMG-3551.jpg

Michael!....show off your endoscope mount....looks like it works great for pistol. I made one, but use a station on my PC7.....the camera goes through an old .45acp seating die body. Seems to me to be another possibility for a 3D print. Others have made plastic die bodies for bullet feeders....and as mentioned some don't work, but I'd think plastic would work great for a borescope.

https://i.postimg.cc/NF47pqfD/IMG-2865.jpg
Below is a picture of a .308 case full of powder to the shoulder......reflected selfie was an unintentional surprise. :(
https://i.postimg.cc/d0bB0jx2/IMG-2870.jpg

[TylerR]

How much bigger is the big base? I didn't think it was THAT much bigger than the other......certainly not nearly as big as my modified Hornady posted on this thread.

The body on my feeder is roughly 210mm x 200mm. I designed it to print on a 220x220 build plate with a little room to spare.


....show off your endoscope mount....looks like it works great for pistol. I made one, but use a station on my PC7.....the camera goes through an old .45acp seating die body. Seems to me to be another possibility for a 3D print. Others have made plastic die bodies for bullet feeders....and as mentioned some don't work, but I'd think plastic would work great for a borescope.

Nice camera setup. someday I will get around to that project.

[gnafin]

what endoscope you using?

[Michael303]

Here's the endoscope I bought. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZH9P8QH

I think I paid a little less than what it's at now. I justified the purchase by telling myself that I'd probably use it for other DIY projects around the house, which is probably true. You can get endoscopes that connect to your phone for less but I didn't want to have to connect it to my phone every time I used it.

All the stations on my Dillon are occupied by dies so putting the camera through a dummy die was a nonstarter. I like that I can see the seating station too in case the bullet topples over. I feel like viewing the powder at a slight angle makes it easier to see if the volume was a little off too.

[GWS]

I have two....one on a five station press, and it doesn't use a station.....the other....7 stations allows some latitude ;) Still it beats a powder cop that uses a station and is either annoying with a loud piezo beep, or a thingie you have to watch for.....or the mechanical stop....which works for pistol only. I like both....using the same video monitor swiveled......I like that it's "in my face" so I'm not likely to ignore it.

Mines..........:roll:cheaper......and was on a long boat from China. But it finally came and it works. I wasn't in a hurry, if you are, better try another source. You get to choose how long the cord is and some are extremely long.....I got the 1 meter length. Monitor came from another source....just a 5" screen made for an aftermarket backup camera. The screen cost me $15. These Chinese sources and products change monthly.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33028191677.html?spm=2114.search0302.3.85.680228ae UEIkPM&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0,searchwe b201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=30d8e4a7-2366-45d7-966f-1c46a60c0bfc&algo_expid=30d8e4a7-2366-45d7-966f-1c46a60c0bfc-12

Read the ad carefully.....there is no video screen in spite of what the Chinese advertising picture leads you to believe. And most are made for usbs.....mine's 12V for auto use.

Neither product or company exists any more that I ordered, but one goes away and another appears.

Aliexpress seems to be the come Chinese order point now days....

A similar camera is still available.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000155690162.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.24462 ed2mjP1Ix&algo_pvid=3b021009-761c-4f9e-8e63-805c29ac5212&algo_expid=3b021009-761c-4f9e-8e63-805c29ac5212-16&btsid=0bb0624016015129975452683e1754&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb 201603_

[Michael303]

I always forget to check Aliexpress. Amazon is just so fast and easy. Looks like you could get something similar to what I got on Ali and save a few bucks though.

[impala68]

@TylerR I was hoping to find this one https://ablpkits.com/product/bullet-dropper-401t/ I'm thinking that's Karl Bibs storefront as its identical to what I got from him ... this design has 3 sets of holes for the ball bearings and has channels in the threaded part for the balls to ride in so it doesn't spin

and these are the others on thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3346109

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4257070

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4317058

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508115

[GWS]

I always forget to check Aliexpress. Amazon is just so fast and easy. Looks like you could get something similar to what I got on Ali and save a few bucks though.

Only if you have the time to wait....and wait. I actually forgot I ordered mine.....then it came and it was like cool....Christmas....surprise surprise. ;)

impala68: interesting....might have to try one sometime....if I ever get this built and working right! I do have two of RCBS's new rifle bullet feeder dies....they have a little different ball bearing design, and they work great.....they are expensiver, but they come with an "M" style neck expander that made it worth it for me....and graphite tubes... $125. Does help when you have extra stations, obviously.

Tested it for function on a single station press below.....the "M" die makes it stable for the roughest progressive merry-go-round (IOW's won't fall over before is gets to the seater):

https://vimeo.com/268105982

[TylerR]

@TylerR I was hoping to find this one https://ablpkits.com/product/bullet-dropper-401t/ I'm thinking that's Karl Bibs storefront as its identical to what I got from him ... this design has 3 sets of holes for the ball bearings and has channels in the threaded part for the balls to ride in so it doesn't spin

and these are the others on thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3346109

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4257070

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4317058

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508115

Very interesting. Now I am curious to try myself. I am in the process of making a bunch of changes to my feeder so have to finish that up before I take on any more projects.

[TylerR]

GWS,

Are you saying you like the RCBS dies better then DAA? I have the DAA dropper and expander die for 45, and while it works well, I don't feel like the expander die works as well as it should to seat the bullet firmly.

[lablover]

Very interesting. Now I am curious to try myself. I am in the process of making a bunch of changes to my feeder so have to finish that up before I take on any more projects.

I got lazy and ordered one from Karl for my .32 acp loading. Works like a charm! Wish I had the brains to design one up in fusion 360. I can do simple stuff but not trying this die...LOL

BTW, I'm using cura and was wondering what profile everyone is using? I'm gonna start Tylers feeder and using 2.0 standard quality its gonna take almost 45 hours to finish the holder bin...WOW, 2.8 quality takes a day and a few hours. Just got some new filament and doing a temp tower..not sure my Microswiss direct drive and hot end likes this filament. I'm picky yes...hahahahahaha

[TylerR]

I got lazy and ordered one from Karl for my .32 acp loading. Works like a charm! Wish I had the brains to design one up in fusion 360. I can do simple stuff but not trying this die...LOL

BTW, I'm using cura and was wondering what profile everyone is using? I'm gonna start Tylers feeder and using 2.0 standard quality its gonna take almost 45 hours to finish the holder bin...WOW, 2.8 quality takes a day and a few hours. Just got some new filament and doing a temp tower..not sure my Microswiss direct drive and hot end likes this filament. I'm picky yes...hahahahahaha

Hold off before you print the main body. I have made a couple of improvements and should be posting it in a day or so. I am going to print a new one myself. I can give you more details on print settings once I do. I am going to go 4-5 walls and only 20% infill this time I think.

[Fil131]

Here's a link of a 3D printed bullet feeder die with springs. If this indeed needs springs it'd be nice to use pen springs like the flipper.

https://youtu.be/Sf4wwsLgiqY

[lablover]

Hold off before you print the main body. I have made a couple of improvements and should be posting it in a day or so. I am going to print a new one myself. I can give you more details on print settings once I do. I am going to go 4-5 walls and only 20% infill this time I think.

Sounds good buddy I will wait. Should I be good printing any of the other parts..electronic case and plates? Ohhh it’s like Christmas

[TylerR]

Sounds good buddy I will wait. Should I be good printing any of the other parts..electronic case and plates? Ohhh it’s like Christmas

electronics box is good to go. Drop tubes should be good as well. I am making some changes to the flip plates mostly, but I am tweaking a few other things as well. I should have it posted hopefully tommorrow or saturday.

[gnafin]

Making any plates for 9mm and 40sw?

[TylerR]

Making any plates for 9mm and 40sw?

Actually, that's exactly what I am doing. lol.
I am working out bullet and brass feeding for 45acp, 40sw and 9mm. Flipping both bullets and brass either nose up or nose down. I got a request for running it as a regular case feeder, which is the simplest things I have done so far. Base down case feeding is so simple compared to everything else.

For standard case feeding it should just be two collator plates, small pistol and large pistol. One standard slide plate. No flip ramp necessary. For bullet feeding I am looking to do also a small and large pistol collator plate with matching slide plates. So caliber swaps should be quick. Base up case feeding is a whole nother animal but making headway with that as well with those three calibers. .380acp will most likely be covered as well.

[TylerR]

Sounds good buddy I will wait. Should I be good printing any of the other parts..electronic case and plates? Ohhh it’s like Christmas

I just wanted to add that the main modification to the main body is a reliability change to how the flip ramp interfaces with the slide plate. It mostly affects base up case feeding reliability which some people have no interest in anyway.

[gnafin]

sounds good. and .380acp will be good. just need some primers now.

[Fil131]

I just wanted to add that the main modification to the main body is a reliability change to how the flip ramp interfaces with the slide plate. It mostly affects base up case feeding reliability which some people have no interest in anyway.

Awesome stuff, I'm only reloading atm not casting but may start making projectiles in the future. I am loading 380, 9mm, 40Cal, 10mm, 45ACP, 223, 300AAC Blkout, 308Win. So when my printer finally arrives next week I can't wait to start on this project. Are all of these calibers supported now on this bullet feeder?

[TylerR]

Awesome stuff, I'm only reloading atm not casting but may start making projectiles in the future. I am loading 380, 9mm, 40Cal, 10mm, 45ACP, 223, 300AAC Blkout, 308Win. So when my printer finally arrives next week I can't wait to start on this project. Are all of these calibers supported now on this bullet feeder?

I don't know that I would use the term supported. ;)

This is obviously a DIY feeder and everything requires tweaking and willingness to work through problems. A lot of people have contributed to this project and there are many ways to skin the cat. I myself personally have focused on .45acp, and I have tried to innovate a few new concepts such as base up case feeding for bulge busting. I have not done any work with rifle calibers at this point. That being said, all of the principles are there to make those calibers happen, and the main body is designed specifically to allow people to create their own slide plates / ramps and such.

[Fil131]

I don't know that I would use the term supported. ;)

This is obviously a DIY feeder and everything requires tweaking and willingness to work through problems. A lot of people have contributed to this project and there are many ways to skin the cat. I myself personally have focused on .45acp, and I have tried to innovate a few new concepts such as base up case feeding for bulge busting. I have not done any work with rifle calibers at this point. That being said, all of the principles are there to make those calibers happen, and the main body is designed specifically to allow people to create their own slide plates / ramps and such.

I understand, I didn't really mean "supported" so much as I meant to ask if they had collator plates for. I am new to 3d printing and just played with fusion a little, very little CAD experience from a high school class long ago. Not new to reloading tho but going to Dillon from Hornady.

[TylerR]

Just wanted to show the change to the main body so people understand. The way the slide plates are designed there was about a 2.5mm gap where the plate meets the ramp. This can cause hangups at times, especially with base up case feeding. The ramp itself will now be in a channel that lines up with the slide plate. Here are some pics to illustrate what I mean.

OLD:
268656

NEW:
268657

[lablover]

Good God man it is Christmas! Hopefully we can modify those plate specs In openscad.

Fabulous job Sir!

[GWS]

GWS,

Are you saying you like the RCBS dies better then DAA? I have the DAA dropper and expander die for 45, and while it works well, I don't feel like the expander die works as well as it should to seat the bullet firmly.

Keep in mind, that the "RCBS tube Rifle bullet seating dies" are Rifle....mine's .223 and .308. DAA's dies for rifle doesn't come with expanders. So apples and oranges. ;) I have just a tad of an email relationship with one of RCBS's R&D engineers. (20 or so emails in the last 3 years) I told him how much I liked the new tube rifle feeders, and also told him the pistol feeders they sell aren't that great. I suggested they take the rifle design and upgrade the pistol dies to that technology. He sounded positive, like that was an interesting idea. I'm hoping. The rifle dies work. The mouth expanders work. The cost ....not outrageous.

DAA's feeders depend on a bullet stack's weight to "stick" bullets well. As you can see from the video, I dropped ONE bullet stroked the press to drop it.....and one bullet stuck............that IMO is better.

https://i.postimg.cc/3JNwHrkq/IMG-2811.jpg

Close-up of the "M" expander with the 1/16" pocket to hold on to a bullet:

https://i.postimg.cc/jd1SqVNS/IMG-2813.jpg

[Fil131]

What video GWS? Is there a link I missed?

*Nvm I see it in post 1105 so in the case of loading with a DAA bullet feeder vs RCBS if your loading exactly 100 rounds the last few not having a stack above may keep them from sticking well within the case mouth?

[GWS]

Only what I hear from some who have one....I don't....so from me it hearsay. Is this one perfect?....close but like everything else, no such thing. The clear plastic part on one I dropped on the concrete floor and it shattered into a million pieces. I'm going to print me some for backups....they don't have to be clear.

I also ripped a slit down one side of the graphite tubes lengthwise so I could see bullets. That worked perfect....still rigid and stronger than hell.;)

One more little thing....like any die you DO have to do minor adjustments for different bullets.

[Fil131]

No prob, good info either way, what is it about the RCBS that lends it to impact bullets more into the case mouth? Is there just a longer section between the ball bearings and the lowest part of the dIe allowing the bullet to gain more speed or something else?

I know you stated you aren't sure but would like to start a conversation about what makes it better and or worse so we can improve on it for reliability. It'd be fairly easy to design as it's a tube with channels and holes for the ball bearings to ride in.

[GWS]

My intention isn't to print one....only the clear plastic part that breaks like glass. As for why bullets stick....that would be the "M" die design, not the feeder die. I doubt plastic is a good use there. I know one thing....and they've proved it before. If you were to figure a way to improve on DAA's product, they will copy it and patent it if they can. I expected them to make "M"s for the rifle dies by now. But with RCBS's non marketing.....they probably don't know about it yet. ;) I notice they have a bigger bullet feeder model now.....and a tube loader.....both copied ideas from reloading forums.

[Fil131]

My intention is to have the bullet feeder work on all the calibers I'm loading to give my left hand a break. On a serious note the feeder dies from DAA are $50 each so buying 8 would cost over $400. I may attempt printing the designs I've already found or attempt to recreate my own DAA with improvements.

[Fil131]

Anyone out there able to tell me what size these are on the DAA feeder die? Took me forever to find that they are commonly called external hairpin clips or external hitch pin clips.

They seem to be pretty cheap at Lowes

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-3680-16-Inch-External/dp/B00I2VEW6M/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=external+hairpin+clips&qid=1601657612&sr=8-3

[TylerR]

Well, we are officially underway with the new body. I did 4 walls and 20% infill, which is less then what I did for my last two.

268761

268728

[GWS]

Mine worked out just fine on 4 walls and 16 percent on IdeaMaker's quickist infill. And it is more than strong enough. Bet it will be great.

I'm finally printing what I hope is the final proximity down tube (three pieces instead of one...and they hopefully will telescope into each other. The left lower is threaded for the larger cheap spring tube from China.....we will see. :roll: I'm printing these solid...two parts have threads. Will use a spring clip in a 1/16" drilled hole for to hold them coupled, made of piano wire.

https://i.postimg.cc/cC5hGQdh/Screenshot-2020-10-02-172527.png

Picture below shows where I reduced the diameter to telescope into the middle piece. Inside is all the same diameter....IOW's there are stops inside. Hope it works. :)
https://i.postimg.cc/N0JkH6Hc/Screenshot-2020-10-02-174727.png

[Fil131]

Mine worked out just fine on 4 walls and 16 percent on IdeaMaker's quickist infill. And it is more than strong enough. Bet it will be great.

I'm finally printing what I hope is the final proximity down tube (three pieces instead of one...and they hopefully will telescope into each other. The left lower is threaded for the larger cheap spring tube from China.....we will see. :roll: I'm printing these solid...two parts have threads. Will use a spring clip in a 1/16" drilled hole for to hold them coupled, made of piano wire.

https://i.postimg.cc/cC5hGQdh/Screenshot-2020-10-02-172527.png

Picture below shows where I reduced the diameter to telescope into the middle piece. Inside is all the same diameter....IOW's there are stops inside. Hope it works. :)
https://i.postimg.cc/N0JkH6Hc/Screenshot-2020-10-02-174727.png

Would we not be able to wind and heat filament to make our own springs? I've seen a lot of videos of people just winding raw filament around a shape or object and heating it in hot water or microwaves and after it cools they have a loose spring. Worst case it would require some printed supports. Not sure about length in linear feet required and if it would be cost effective. Just throwing that out there as a suggestion.

[lablover]

Well, we are officially underway with the new body. I did 4 walls and 20% infill, which is less then what I did for my last two.

268729

268728

What is the estimated print time?

[TylerR]

What is the estimated print time?

Cura says 34 hours. I will let you know what it actually turns out to be.

[mynameis940]

So I just tried mine at full speed and it did jam a bullet in the drop but it was moving a lot faster than it was in the video I posted which is way faster than I ever run it in real life.

On another note I thought some of my fellow 3D printing nerds would appreciate a few other things I've modeled and printed for my press.

Mount for an endoscope for easy viewing of the powder and bullet drop.
https://i.imgur.com/IUA7pdd.jpg

Drop tube limit switch housing.
https://i.imgur.com/HQVcdts.jpg

Powder quick disconnect.
https://i.imgur.com/FIqWzAp.jpg

Case feed stopper.
https://i.imgur.com/he25Mbi.jpg

Primer follower hanger.
https://i.imgur.com/HEKdPgs.jpg

Hundo case gauge riser and filpper tray.
https://i.imgur.com/sdQ1stt.jpg

Anti wobble locator pins.
https://i.imgur.com/NKKerHl.jpg

Do you mind posting the files for the hundo case gauge riser and flipper tray, the primer follower hanger, drop tube limiter switch, and the powder disconnect? I really like those and would like to print them myself.

[lablover]

Cura says 34 hours. I will let you know what it actually turns out to be.

Cura has been getting more accurate with time estimates as newer versions come out. Looking forward to your settings. 36 hours ain’t so bad.

[GWS]

Hope TylerR's print is going perfect......mine, well .....2 out of three. the Bottom part I tried to thread with something that would thread the large spring.....wrong measurement somewhere.....I'll try again. ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/Hk2ghctr/IMG-3572.jpg

But the other two.....perfect!

https://vimeo.com/464555130

Back to Autocad......

[TylerR]

Cura has been getting more accurate with time estimates as newer versions come out. Looking forward to your settings. 36 hours ain’t so bad.

Roughly 26 hours in, says about 7 to go. so I suspect will end up around 32. I updated the other post with all of the relevant settings, including travel speed. If there is any other setting you are looking for let me know.

[TylerR]

Hope TylerR's print is going perfect......mine, well .....2 out of three. the Bottom part I tried to thread with something that would thread the large spring.....wrong measurement somewhere.....I'll try again. ;)

But the other two.....perfect!

https://vimeo.com/464555130

I really like what you have going on here GWS. Looking great so far. Generally I print a part at least 5 times before I get it correct. LOL

That said, my body print is going well. I did make one minor tweak to the design based on the result but nothing that will affect its practical use.

BTW I really like that green color you are using.

[TylerR]

Anti wobble locator pins.
https://i.imgur.com/NKKerHl.jpg

I am interested by these. So they hold the case more firmly in place and reduce powder flinging out? Do they fit an XL650?

[GWS]

TylerR: You'll get it perfected......I want to print the big base, but I gotta finish this project first....then I'll attempt the big one. Thanks for all the sharing. Be glad to share anything I have of worth.

The green was a fluke......I wanted a kelly green to match RCBS, but couldn't find anything in stock anywhere......until I found the Texas company Zyltec.......and they were out too, except for a PLA composite called Silk Green....so I bought it. Turns out it's pretty eye catching.....sorta like anodized aluminum in one light, green hard candy in another. My wife thinks I ought to buy the red silk too, so I can make Christmas ornaments. :roll: They do have Blue as well......;)

Our mutual friend RedlegEd likes it too.....he just bought a roll. Oh, I should mention....it's easy to print with....obviously. Beginner and all. Bed 60C Nozzle 210C. I usually print four walls, 3 in this case.....two wasn't enough, but four.....didn't think the tube walls were that thick....may be wrong, because I got a hairline void in the middle. Still learning, obviously.

I'm using IdeaMaker not Cura. Me and Cura was brain incompatible....me wired wrong logically, for that and Apple Computers too. I do hate the black screen and dull red models, though, and complained to the company..... They said they were working on an update with screen color choices.....anxiously waiting....

[TylerR]

Well it's good that you waited on the large base anyway, to get the latest. The recessed ramp is a small change but should make the flipping buttery smooth.



My wife thinks I ought to buy the red silk too, so I can make Christmas ornaments. :roll:


Haha, gotta keep the wife happy!

[lablover]

Thank you sir. 80ms print speed! Wow, now I know why mine will take so long. I run at 50ms. I may try 80 and see what happens

[TylerR]

Thank you sir. 80ms print speed! Wow, now I know why mine will take so long. I run at 50ms. I may try 80 and see what happens

I like to run the first layer hot and slow, and if it goes down with good adhesion your all set for higher speeds. What printer are you using again?

[lablover]

I have 2. A creality cr10s with microswiss all metal hot end and microswiss direct drive extruder and a ender 3 pretty stock.

Can’t wait to see what you come up with....I have like 4 K of 45 acp brass to deprive, clean and BB

[TylerR]

I have 2. A creality cr10s with microswiss all metal hot end and microswiss direct drive extruder and a ender 3 pretty stock.

Can’t wait to see what you come up with....I have like 4 K of 45 acp brass to deprive, clean and BB

Well 45 acp is what I have been mostly focused on, so figure that's a shoe in for you. I will tell you that de-priming with the feeder and APP press worked like a charm.
Bulge busting was a bit more challenging, because of the amount of force necessary to push the case through the die. I would be prepared to use case lube for that process. And of course the base up feeding of the brass has been my biggest challenge. I have made a ton of reliability improvements over the last week, so its pretty solid now.

I will shoot some more video's of everything in action once I get all the new parts printed up and running.

[lablover]

Looking forward to it! In the process of trying to find my new favorite filament. I used to be a fan of inland brand as I have a Microcenter pretty close by. However they seemed to have changed something as it prints pretty bad now.
I’ll have to find the link to that blue you posted. I think it was hatchbox which has always been good to me

Edit: overture

[GWS]

Interesting......speed.....my experience is just what is set on this IdeaMaker screen......seems a lot more complicated than I want to have to learn ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/dQHyZ6Z0/speeds.png

The more I learn.....the more I see to learn......never considered printing at 80.....(except for infill) or driving.....another matter.....

[TylerR]

Looking forward to it! In the process of trying to find my new favorite filament. I used to be a fan of inland brand as I have a Microcenter pretty close by. However they seemed to have changed something as it prints pretty bad now.
I’ll have to find the link to that blue you posted. I think it was hatchbox which has always been good to me

Edit: overture

I am really loving the Overture PLA+. I run it hot and it prints like a dream. I used to be an ABS fan, but the PLA plus is just as strong and not brittle at all.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0883FS7PH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

Interesting......speed.....my experience is just what is set on this IdeaMaker screen......seems a lot more complicated than I want to have to learn ;)

The more I learn.....the more I see to learn......never considered printing at 80.....(except for infill) or driving.....another matter.....

Yeah the amount of settings you can tweak get overwhelming.

[lablover]

I am really loving the Overture PLA+. I run it hot and it prints like a dream. I used to be an ABS fan, but the PLA plus is just as strong and not brittle at all.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0883FS7PH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like it will be delivered Monday....can’t wait to try it.

[TylerR]

Looks like it will be delivered Monday....can’t wait to try it.

Here are my temp settings. They may seem high for PLA, but I run my printer in the basement which is a bit cooler and the PLA+ is meant to be run hot. These settings work flawlessly for my printer and that filament.

268776

[lablover]

Here are my temp settings. They may seem high for PLA, but I run my printer in the basement which is a bit cooler and the PLA+ is meant to be run hot. These settings work flawlessly for my printer and that filament.

268776

I run close to the Sam temps as I also have my printing stuff in the basement. I’m experimenting with drying my filament as well. I see another food dehydrator in my future! One is for drying wet tumbled brass. Lol

[mynameis940]

I am interested by these. So they hold the case more firmly in place and reduce powder flinging out? Do they fit an XL650?

I haven't seen anyone use those on the 650s in my experience. it's more of a 1050/1100 thing.

For my 650 I did the 2 bearing kits and the light weight ball to fix that powder issue. Powder doesn't go anywhere now no matter how fast I move the handle.

I did this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shellplate-Bearing-Camming-Pin-Bearing-Kit-Dillon-XL650-XL750-Hit-Factor-750CPB/293103232063

And this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Index-Bearing-Cam-Block-for-Dillon-XL650/401827832528

ps: Really excited on your new 9mm release you were talking about, I have the original ammomike print all done and using it, but curious to see how yours does and will probably change over to it.

[TylerR]

She's done! I said 32 hours. Ended up being 31:59:05. 8-)

268785

[lablover]

She's done! I said 32 hours. Ended up being 31:59:05. 8-)

268785

If that’s not the biggest tease of a picture.....lol

[TylerR]

If that’s not the biggest tease of a picture.....lol

I need to print some other parts to complete my testing based on the changes, but I am confident in the main body at this point. If you are looking to get started I can post it out there. Otherwise I should be able to post the entire new package later tonight. I have renamed all the file names to make them much more descriptive and organized. Anyway, let me know.

[lablover]

I need to print some other parts to complete my testing based on the changes, but I am confident in the main body at this point. If you are looking to get started I can post it out there. Otherwise I should be able to post the entire new package later tonight. I have renamed all the file names to make them much more descriptive and organized. Anyway, let me know.

Your call buddy. I can wait till you are done. Fabulous work!

[TylerR]

Your call buddy. I can wait till you are done. Fabulous work!

OK I will post it all tonight. You are going to love the standard case feeding. Works like a charm, at least on the 4 I have tested (45acp, 40sw, 9mm, 380acp).

[Fil131]

OK I will post it all tonight. You are going to love the standard case feeding. Works like a charm, at least on the 4 I have tested (45acp, 40sw, 9mm, 380acp).

Awesome sauce, I just received and finished putting my Mk3s together last night. Need to do test prints and familiarize myself with it and start printing and assembling this collator. My press should be arriving this week. I can't believe it's all finally coming together!

[lablover]

Awesome sauce, I just received and finished putting my Mk3s together last night. Need to do test prints and familiarize myself with it and start printing and assembling this collator. My press should be arriving this week. I can't believe it's all finally coming together!


How long did you wait for the Mk3? I’ve been tempted

[Fil131]

How long did you wait for the Mk3? I’ve been tempted

My payment went through September 4th I received a shipped notification on Tuesday.

I did add quite a few orders of filament after placing the initial order so it may have come quicker possibly but I'm not so sure that delayed it at all.

[lablover]

If you ever get a chance, try some of the prusament filament. Awesome stuff but expensive. Look forward to your results with the Mk3

[GWS]

OK I will post it all tonight. You are going to love the standard case feeding. Works like a charm, at least on the 4 I have tested (45acp, 40sw, 9mm, 380acp).

Sounds fun! I checked out the link to your favorite Overture.......was disappointed. It might be wonderful, but it seems to be non-existant in any other color. I even went to their own website......and I couldn't even find "Plus" PLA. That seems to be an Amazon....only....and only in Dillon blue......that would clash totally in my reloading room! ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/VN4h516g/IMG-3199.jpg

See what I mean?.....black would be welcomed, and red is fine.....Christmas colors! I know I'm a divergent....

Lee APP is the newest addition.....love the idea of a bullet/case feeder on a single stage press! I plan to install a horizontal square tubing from my existing vertical 4' to the end of my Summit press. The idea is to mount bullet and case feeders to be slid along the rail to feed all my presses from the Pro Chucker 7 to the Summit. Would have never thought of doing this.....then the Lee APP came.....and a picture of RedlegEd's bench.....Ed thought of Horizontal first!:)

[TylerR]

Sounds fun! I checked out the link to your favorite Overture.......was disappointed. It might be wonderful, but it seems to be non-existant in any other color. I even went to their own website......and I couldn't even find "Plus" PLA. That seems to be an Amazon....only....and only in Dillon blue......that would clash totally in my reloading room! ;)


Unfortunately you are 100% correct. Black was available just 5 days ago. Now nothing.

[lablover]

I got lucky and seemed amazon had 2 rolls left of the blue. GWS! Very nice set up! I could see why the blue would clash.

EDIT:
GWS. check the overture site for pla professional. It’s the same thing..they have a green but it’s sold out

[Fil131]

If you ever get a chance, try some of the prusament filament. Awesome stuff but expensive. Look forward to your results with the Mk3

I bought 9 spools of their PETG in various colors. Going to start with that and see.

[lablover]

I bought 9 spools of their PETG in various colors. Going to start with that and see.


Good luck PETG can be tricky to work with...but it’s strong

[lablover]

Tyler. When you start snapping pictures later I’d be curious how you have it or plan to have it attached to your Lee APP

[TylerR]

Tyler. When you start snapping pictures later I’d be curious how you have it or plan to have it attached to your Lee APP

I am using a 1" vertical tube mount. Its on a sliding bar so I can position both feeders wherever I want on the bench. That being said, there are quite a few other mount concepts that have been utilized by other people.

268829268830

[nhyrum]

Sounds fun! I checked out the link to your favorite Overture.......was disappointed. It might be wonderful, but it seems to be non-existant in any other color. I even went to their own website......and I couldn't even find "Plus" PLA. That seems to be an Amazon....only....and only in Dillon blue......that would clash totally in my reloading room! ;)


I was told overture makes the Amazon basics filament. While I wasn't able to find Dillon blue that way, it's the same stuff

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Some rapid fire base down case feeding with the new body and plates.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xwO8ADc0JE

[lablover]

Woooohoooooo...that thing is moving! What motor is that? Awesome job

[TylerR]

Woooohoooooo...that thing is moving! What motor is that? Awesome job

ETZGMP38 - https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

[lablover]

ETZGMP38 - https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

Guess I can get started printing tomorrow! And the blue filament should show up too. Will you be posting new files?

[TylerR]

Guess I can get started printing tomorrow! And the blue filament should show up too. Will you be posting new files?

Yes. I am going to print one more plate tonight. I will have them up before noon tomorrow.

[mynameis940]

Some rapid fire base down case feeding with the new body and plates.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xwO8ADc0JE

What sized roll pin did you use for the motor?

[GWS]

Tyler! Great job! Looks like that bullet collator makes an equally great case collator! Hope you Labeled all the files so we can get the right ones. That collator will work great with my Homemade Pro 2000 case feeder!......Now I gotta build three! Thankyou for documenting all this.

As soon as I get my bench mount done, I'm ready to show off the Proximity Sensor. Works really well and is blind to caliber and size....like your light sensor but no special circuit board....just needs a 12 volt wall wart.

I learned a new trick today. I've had a heck of a time trying to make threads work on the large Chinese Spring Tube RedlegEd sold me some of. So went back to the drawing board again. The thread cross-section I decided to use was round rather than pyramidal .....and no it doesn't turn on like a bolt. When you turn the spring it unwinds it which makes it bigger and just binds ..... so I tried twisting it backwards winding it tighter and smaller til it slid all the way in. Letting go it grabs tight and you can pull all you want and it won't pull apart. Happy days!

[gnafin]

Mount for an endoscope... care to share.

[TylerR]

Files have been posted. I did not include any of the base up case feeding stuff because I am still working it out. The files are much more clearly named and organized. I included a copy of my latest collator plate generator, which has options to create the case feed plates.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

[TylerR]

What sized roll pin did you use for the motor?

5/32". its a bit overkill. 1/8" probably wold have made more sense.

[TylerR]

Thanks GWS! Can't wait to see your new setup.

[GWS]

Mount for an endoscope... care to share.

In post 1096 Michael posted a picture of how he mounted his......I'm going to try to make one for my Pro 2000 since I just used stickon velcro under it's casting.....long before I bought my 3d Printer. I used a micro camera on that press not an endoscope. (looking for a link to share).

In post 1096 is my picture of how I mounted my endoscope on my Newest 7 station progressive, but I used a station and a die body. Less stations on a press would encourage doing it Micheal's way.

If you mean sharing the mount for my Video Monitor in the picture above, video & pictures below should help....I used 1 1/4" steel square tubing, the talents of a nephew to weld two pieces together, and it doubles for storage mounts for Uniflow powder measures.


https://vimeo.com/366651603
(you didn't see that loose velcro on the left press.....;) if I could make perfect videos, I'd be rich and famous)

You will have to look close to see the welded horizontal I bolted to my shelf above the bench (no other attachment) Where the vertical meets it is where I want to drill a hole and mount a new horizontal to travel 4 feet past my last press and turn back to the shelf.......to that I will mount sliding bullet/case feeders to service the PC7, RC, APP, and Summit. (big eyes....we will see if I can pull it off)
https://i.postimg.cc/QtXdQ4Hy/IMG-3195.jpg
Used a piece of wood mounted to a door hinge so I can pivot the monitor to which press I'm using. (Used hard drive magnets to good use)
https://i.postimg.cc/XqqNhrKK/IMG-3203.jpg
box (pre 3dprinting) for lights and camera ;)
https://i.postimg.cc/fLBTBcdT/IMG-3197.jpg

[lablover]

Files have been posted. I did not include any of the base up case feeding stuff because I am still working it out. The files are much more clearly named and organized. I included a copy of my latest collator plate generator, which has options to create the case feed plates.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

Thanks a million . Look forward to getting started. Might even try a .6 nozzle and have both printers running

[TylerR]

Thanks a million . Look forward to getting started. Might even try a .6 nozzle and have both printers running

You bet. As a side note, I was able to feed all 4 calibers with the large brass collator plate, including 380acp. It is very forgiving compared to everything else. So I would start with that plate and see how it goes for you. Good luck with the prints.

[GWS]

lablover.... .6 nozzle:
I'm way too new in 3dp for that, but I'm interested in the pros and cons. I know it should print faster, but how will it effect detail and quality? Trying to add to my education, here.;) Since I will probably never have more than one printer, I don't know if changing the nozzle back and forth is worth the time & trouble. Thoughts?

TylerR:
Now that's what I like to hear!.....that's the best part of my Hornady conversion bullet feeder....one plate maximum calibers. And now that I can 3dprint, may be making another plate or two for that, since I have the bed size for it. So many projects......so little time!;) or maybe come up with a new case feeder that diameter.....that seems a lot of work reinventing the wheel tho.....and another 8 hours to print it? ugh.

[lablover]

lablover.... .6 nozzle:
I'm way too new in 3dp for that, but I'm interested in the pros and cons. I know it should print faster, but how will it effect detail and quality? Trying to add to my education, here.;) Since I will probably never have more than one printer, I don't know if changing the nozzle back and forth is worth the time & trouble. Thoughts?

TylerR:
Now that's what I like to hear!.....that's the best part of my Hornady conversion bullet feeder....one plate maximum calibers. And now that I can 3dprint, may be making another plate or two for that, since I have the bed size for it. So many projects......so little time!;) or maybe come up with a new case feeder that diameter.....that seems a lot of work reinventing the wheel tho.

GWS
The larger nozzle will cut print time sometimes in half! if you get it tuned good the print quality is not that bad. For things that dont need to be real pretty I use a .6 all the time. Usually on larger prints. You have to print a bit hotter due to the flow volume. Give it a try, pretty easy to warm up the hot end and swap them out. I use my larger bed printer with the .6 nozzle and the other printer with the smaller bed with a .4

[lablover]

Files have been posted. I did not include any of the base up case feeding stuff because I am still working it out. The files are much more clearly named and organized. I included a copy of my latest collator plate generator, which has options to create the case feed plates.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

I dont see the plate generator in your files

[TylerR]

I dont see the plate generator in your files


That's odd. the file name did have a period in front of it. I removed that. Try it now.

[wrinkles]

She's done! I said 32 hours. Ended up being 31:59:05. 8-)

268785

Crazy my Octoprint complained when I tried to do a 21 hour print. It said that it didn't recommend long prints because of possible connection loss to the printer.

[TylerR]

Crazy my Octoprint complained when I tried to do a 21 hour print. It said that it didn't recommend long prints because of possible connection loss to the printer.

Interesting. I am not on the absolute latest version so maybe that's why. I have my printer and octopi on a battery backup specifically for these crazy long prints.

[lablover]

That's odd. the file name did have a period in front of it. I removed that. Try it now.

That must of been it...Its there now. Thanks

[GWS]

bf_v1.0.zip is the one to download, right?

What's the main difference between the bullet plates and the case plates?

I really need to spend some time learning the openScad so I can use that generator. Reinventing the wheel is a pain.

Octoprint............geeze........a whole new thing to buy and learn.....I'm getting to old to enjoy all this new learning.....;)

[TylerR]

bf_v1.0.zip is the one to download, right?

What's the main difference between the bullet plates and the case plates?

I really need to spend some time learning the openScad so I can use that generator. Reinventing the wheel is a pain.

Octoprint............geeze........a whole new thing to buy and learn.....I'm getting to old to enjoy it.;)

Yes.

There are quite a few differences between the two plates. First off the hole in the case plate is substantially larger. The case plate is thinner height wise, less of a bevel, and instead of a chute it has ridges to keep the brass moving around. I designed them more after a standard dillon case plate. That being said, I did initial case feed testing with bullet plates. I have found that a lot of design tweaking revolves around reliability. Some things will work fine until you hit a particular nuance, and then all of a sudden there are issues. Like I said, I would suspect you could do a lot with just the large case plate and large bullet plate.

Now base up case feeding is a whole nother animal, where things get very specific or it just doesn't work.


I hear ya. its endless.

[TylerR]

Another detail about the case feeding and the springs I used. All of the spring adapters are designed around DAA springs. The small fits their small bullet feeder spring. Large fits large.
The extra large spring adapter is designed for their larger output chute spring. https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring

I did this because their large bullet feeder spring is not large enough to feed 45acp cases. The spring that comes with that output chute is 4' long, so I cut it and used it for a bunch of things.
If I had to do it over I wouldn't have even bothered with their large bullet spring. The larger chute spring works just as well for large bullets.

Hope that makes sense.

[Fil131]

Files have been posted. I did not include any of the base up case feeding stuff because I am still working it out. The files are much more clearly named and organized. I included a copy of my latest collator plate generator, which has options to create the case feed plates.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

Amazing sir, I will start on this when I get home from work. I did a 10hr frisbee print for the kids overnight and all went well with the PETG. I was using a 0.4mm nozzle and have a 0.6 I will try and see how much faster that'll run at least for the bigger less detailed parts.

[lablover]

God I love this thing. Filament just arrived and its off to the races. Is there a version of the hopper that has the hole in the middle to those that might plan to use the Hex fitting on the motor shaft?....Asking for a friend......LOL

[TylerR]

God I love this thing. Filament just arrived and its off to the races. Is there a version of the hopper that has the hole in the middle to those that might plan to use the Hex fitting on the motor shaft?....Asking for a friend......LOL

I need more details. You are mounting a hex fitting to the MBF motor? Does the hex fitting have to extend down in to the main body? If so what is the diameter of the hex fitting? The center hole in the body is currently 12mm.

Edited to add, if you go with hex instead of roll pin you will need to generate hex plates as well.

[lablover]

I need more details. You are mounting a hex fitting to the MBF motor? Does the hex fitting have to extend down in to the main body? If so what is the diameter of the hex fitting? The center hole in the body is currently 12mm.

I was thinking of using the hex fitting on the Mcmaster motor. I currently have the original Mr BF that has the pin. for the Mcmaster with the hex fitting it would have to be 14mm min to be able to mount the hex fitting to the motor and then screw the whole thing to the bowl. If its too mych issue please dont worry about it. I was going to order the Mcmaster but have no way to drill and mount that pin in the shaft. I figured the hex fitting would be easier. Maybe if the hole in the bowl would be 14mm and still have the little slots for the pin. Kind of a 2 for 1 option? 14mm would be perfect.

BTW. small print is 50% done with the PLA+ stuff...WOW this stuff prints good. Found my new favorite filament

[TylerR]

I was thinking of using the hex fitting on the Mcmaster motor. I currently have the original Mr BF that has the pin. for the Mcmaster with the hex fitting it would have to be 14mm min to be able to mount the hex fitting to the motor and then screw the whole thing to the bowl. If its too mych issue please dont worry about it. I was going to order the Mcmaster but have no way to drill and mount that pin in the shaft. I figured the hex fitting would be easier. Maybe if the hole in the bowl would be 14mm and still have the little slots for the pin. Kind of a 2 for 1 option? 14mm would be perfect.

BTW. small print is 50% done with the PLA+ stuff...WOW this stuff prints good. Found my new favorite filament

Enlarging the center hole in the body is a non issue. I will open it up to 15mm. Give me a few and I will repost.

Can you post a link to the hex fitting you are using?

[lablover]

Enlarging the center hole in the body is a non issue. I will open it up to 15mm. Give me a few and I will repost.

Can you post a link to the hex fitting you are using?

You bet. Looks like it will fit just right on the Mcmaster motor. Figured why mess with drilling in that little shaft for the pin.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K7FKWJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Fil131]

You bet. Looks like it will fit just right on the Mcmaster motor. Figured why mess with drilling in that little shaft for the pin.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K7FKWJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found these which seem to be very similar and cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QCTC93S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A7DX8D9PZRWI9&th=1

[TylerR]

Files are back up with the larger center hole on the main body.

[lablover]

Files are back up with the larger center hole on the main body.

Thanks Tyler. Heading to printer shortly

[lablover]

I found these which seem to be very similar and cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QCTC93S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A7DX8D9PZRWI9&th=1


Nice catch

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler. Heading to printer shortly

Since you mentioned you were going to go hex, I remembered there was an issue with hex in the collator generator. I fixed that issue, and also added a parameter for turning the hex handle on or off depending on what you want.

useHex = true; // Set true if using hex shaft
addHexHandle = true; // Adds hex handle to top of plate


I also put the values I used to generate the standard plates in the comments.

[lablover]

Since you mentioned you were going to go hex, I remembered there was an issue with hex in the collator generator. I fixed that issue, and also added a parameter for turning the hex handle on or off depending on what you want.

useHex = true; // Set true if using hex shaft
addHexHandle = true; // Adds hex handle to top of plate


I also put the values I used to generate the standard plates in the comments.

Awesome. Both printers are cruising away. The overture pro is awesome. Color is pretty darn close.

Look forward to doing the plates. Man, you got this designing down to a science. Time for me to YouTube some fusion videos.....hahahahaha

[lablover]

I have the McMaster motor on the way and been looking thru the posts to try to find everything else I need electronic wise. Seems Amazon is out of the photo sensor thing. Also is there a wiring diagram for not using a switch? Just a speed knob that also turns it on and. Off?

[lablover]

Think I found one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M67V8AQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A35S2O80T8SU95&psc=1

[Fil131]

Files are back up with the larger center hole on the main body.

Which main body should I print?
ETZGMP38, or FC555?

*Nvm I see the different motor mounting holes.

Started the 12hr main body print now

[lablover]

12 hrs? For the main body?

[Fil131]

12 hrs? For the main body?

4.5 left to go on my Mk3s, pretty smooth so far. Now showing 4.5hrs. 0.6 nozzle with moderate speed setting. 4 walls and 15% infill. Doesn't seem to allow me to attach a photo from my iPhone. I will attempt later after work.

[lablover]

4.5 left to go on my Mk3s, pretty smooth so far. Now showing 4.5hrs. 0.6 nozzle with moderate speed setting. 4 walls and 15% infill.

Man that thing must be flying to be done in 12 hours! I just realized I set my infill at 20%. That could of saved me some time!

[Fil131]

Man that thing must be flying to be done in 12 hours! I just realized I set my infill at 20%. That could of saved me some time!

Here it is I couldn't tell that the attach files was a link to click on.
268906

[TylerR]

Here it is I couldn't tell that the attach files was a link to click on.
268906

Very cool. That is crazy fast. The only place where finer detail makes a difference is the slot where the plates slide in to. The tolerance there is tight so the plates slide in but don't move around on their own too much. I will be curious to hear how that is with the .6 nozzle.

[lablover]

Nice set up. Did you go to Petg? Are you using the 80ms speeds that Tyler uses? I’m going to turn the dial up on mine printing now to about 120% to speed it up. It is however printing great. I decided to use the .4 nozzle to do the bowl for some crazy reason. Using the small printer with the .6 nozzle for all the parts. Printing awesome and found a setting that makes super clean parts with such a big nozzle.

I’ll try to post some pics. For all the parts needed besides the bowl I’m using prusament and am shocked how well they are printing at .6

[Fil131]

Very cool. That is crazy fast. The only place where finer detail makes a difference is the slot where the plates slide in to. The tolerance there is tight so the plates slide in but don't move around on their own too much. I will be curious to hear how that is with the .6 nozzle.

I can't remember exact settings, I'll take screenshots when I get home and I can take calipers to it by then it'll have sat on the printer for over 7hrs to cool after finalizing. It's PETG which I've read is good for sanding. First attempt at a big print, I made a couple small items for the wife and kiddos while dialing in temps and Z axis. I'm really liking this Mk3s a lot.

[Fil131]

Nice set up. Did you go to Petg? Are you using the 80ms speeds that Tyler uses? I’m going to turn the dial up on mine printing now to about 120% to speed it up. It is however printing great. I decided to use the .4 nozzle to do the bowl for some crazy reason. Using the small printer with the .6 nozzle for all the parts. Printing awesome and found a setting that makes super clean parts with such a big nozzle.

I’ll try to post some pics. For all the parts needed besides the bowl I’m using prusament and am shocked how well they are printing at .6

Yes I did, all the filament I ordered was PETG of various colors except for one roll of flex that I'd like to use to make optics covers with for my holosun on my AR. I also bought multiple nozzles from 0.25 to 0.6, as I kept printing I kept upping the nozzle temp and it just started getting better and better. There's a little stringing on the mouth area where it jumps from end to end but nothing major that concerns me they'll most likely come off by running my finger or fingernail over them.

I'll let you all know how this works out when I get home and break it free of the print bed, then I'll have to start on all of the small parts.

Only printing a couple of days and a few items and I'm hooked it's pretty addicting, if only I could model like @TylerR haha...

[TylerR]

Only printing a couple of days and a few items and I'm hooked it's pretty addicting, if only I could model like @TylerR haha...

3d printing is very addicting.

To be honest, I only picked up 3d cad to support my 3d printing habit. I use a program that not many people use, but is free, simple to learn and powerful enough to do anything I have ever attempted. Its main limitation in the free version is importing and exporting of cad files from other programs. If you have any interest in learning I would check it out.

https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-download-and-installation

[lablover]

3d printing is very addicting.

To be honest, I only picked up 3d cad to support my 3d printing habit. I use a program that not many people use, but is free, simple to learn and powerful enough to do anything I have ever attempted. Its main limitation in the free version is importing and exporting of cad files from other programs. If you have any interest in learning I would check it out.

https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-download-and-installation


Drats , I’m on a Mac

[lablover]

268910


The ramp in Prusament black. It’s got a cool flake to it as well. Smooth as butter. Also with a .6 nozzle

[lablover]

268911

Flipper plate.

[TylerR]

268911

Flipper plate.

Very interesting look to the filament. Curious, what is the first task you are trying to accomplish with the collator? Nose up bullet feeding? And what calibers?

[lablover]

Salt and pepper. Forgot what the name of it was. It’s flat black with that sparkle to it. Best printing filament I have besides the new overture you suggested. And the fact it printed that nice at .6 nozzle is shocking. It looks crunchy because of the sparkle but it’s smooth as glass. Also the lighting makes it look more sparkle tha it really is

[GWS]

When you remember the brand and color name, share it. We're always looking for good filament......especially in this day of rarified filament supply.;)

I've always wondered why Ammo Mike made the plates so big......makes my old pre-3dprinted flipper (not a plate) look microscopic. It works equally well for 9mm, 357, 40, 45. Lucky fluke, I think.

Picture to show you what I mean..... Bet you can guess I'm not a machinist. The pencil mark is how much ledge there is to keep base down from flipping.

https://i.postimg.cc/Fspq2jZH/IMG-2992.jpg

I wonder what kind of black plastic Hornady used......it's way stronger than PLA, but it melts rather than burns, so it's thermal molded.....not at all brittle. I keep having to learn the hard way about PLA. Found out you can't tighten a set screw against it without a de lamination crack......1 step forward....2 back......and I'm still tying to mount it. Sorry I'm so slow.

[lablover]

Prusament Galaxy Black. I got a deal on it last year. It's almost twice the price today on amazon.

[Fil131]

Prusament Galaxy Black. I got a deal on it last year. It's almost twice the price today on amazon.

Why not buy directly from Prusa? They are taking a while to process orders but their prices, shipping and customer service are great.

Oh and I ordered some galaxy black in PETG that I got with my printer. I'll have to see what it looks like when I print some small parts for my bullet feeder.

[TylerR]

I can't wait to see all of these new collators put in to action.

I finally got a very reliable drop hole adapter for the case base up feeding. I am printing a new collator plate now and assuming that works out I will post the files.

I would like to point out that the angle of the feeder is key to reliable feeding, and it takes some playing around to get it right. My experience is that case feeding requires a steeper angle then bullet feeding, especially base up. 45 degrees is a good place to start.

[j_dude77]

Tyler,

Any chance that you could modify the JGY-370 base with a larger diameter shaft hole? I tried in fusion 360, but cannot get it to work right.

[n10sivern]

Just got informed that ammomike’s design was pulled from thingiverse again

[lablover]

Why not buy directly from Prusa? They are taking a while to process orders but their prices, shipping and customer service are great.

Oh and I ordered some galaxy black in PETG that I got with my printer. I'll have to see what it looks like when I print some small parts for my bullet feeder.


Never thought of ordering direct. Just checked and shipping is decent and prices more than half cheaper than amazon! Here we go, time to order. Now if I can just NOT order a prusa mk3. Lol

[TylerR]

Tyler,

Any chance that you could modify the JGY-370 base with a larger diameter shaft hole? I tried in fusion 360, but cannot get it to work right.

My larger base?

[j_dude77]

The original. However if it is easier with your base, that will work. I downloaded the zip file you had and only saw two bases. I am using ammomike's original designs, just can figure out how to make the the hole larger for the shaft. I did not realize that yours was bigger than the original.

Also if anyone needs any of the original ammomike files hit me up.

[j_dude77]

Who has made their own output springs. I know the 1/2” OD stainless brake line protector is supposed to be a replacement for the large output spring, but what about the small? Will 3/8” work? Anybody got pics of their homemade output springs?

3/8 will work for the small.

[TylerR]

The original. However if it is easier with your base, that will work. I downloaded the zip file you had and only saw two bases. I am using ammomike's original designs, just can figure out how to make the the hole larger for the shaft. I did not realize that yours was bigger than the original.

Also if anyone needs any of the original ammomike files hit me up.

I removed the body I made for the JGY motor because it is not really strong enough to power the larger feeder, and I figured its better to take the option away then have people try it and be disappointed in the results.

That being said, I just modified the original AM body to have a 15mm center hole for you. I put it in the shared folder. Let me know when you have it because I am not going to leave it there.

[j_dude77]

I removed the body I made for the JGY motor because it is not really strong enough to power the larger feeder, and I figured its better to take the option away then have people try it and be disappointed in the results.

That being said, I just modified the original AM body to have a 15mm center hole for you. I put it in the shared folder. Let me know when you have it because I am not going to leave it there.

Thank you. I got it. How do you change the dimensions so quick? Are you using Design Spark? Fusion 360 does not play nice with STL or OBJ files.

[TylerR]

I got it. How do you change the dimensions so quick? Are you using Design Spark? Fusion 360 does not play nice with STL or OBJ files.

Design Spark. You can import and convert an stl to a solid, and manipulating flat surfaces are no problem. Making changes to curved surfaces not so much. So creating a larger hole in the flat bottom base goes quick.

[Fil131]

Very cool. That is crazy fast. The only place where finer detail makes a difference is the slot where the plates slide in to. The tolerance there is tight so the plates slide in but don't move around on their own too much. I will be curious to hear how that is with the .6 nozzle.

Got home to a pleasant surprise, she’s printed and purdy. A little stringing across the gap and a few rough edges that’ll scrape away easily. 12hrs 26min print time on my Mk3s. 256° nozzle, 85° bed, 0.6 nozzle, 4 walls, 0.3mm layer height, 0.2mm 1st layer height, 15% infill, textured print bed, Prusa PETG filament.
268932
268933

[j_dude77]

Design Spark. You can import and convert an stl to a solid, and manipulating flat surfaces are no problem. Making changes to curved surfaces not so much. So creating a larger hole in the flat bottom base goes quick.

Will have to look into it some more. Like I said, I mainly use Fusion 360.

[TylerR]

Got home to a pleasant surprise, she’s printed and purdy. A little stringing across the gap and a few rough edges that’ll scrape away easily. 12hrs 26min print time on my Mk3s 256° nozzle, 85° bed, 0.6 nozzle, 4 walls, 0.3mm layer height, 0.2mm 1st layer height, 15% infill, textured print bed, Prusa PETG filament.


That's awesome! Glad it was a successful print.

[Fil131]

never thought of ordering direct. Just checked and shipping is decent and prices more than half cheaper than amazon! Here we go, time to order. Now if i can just not order a prusa mk3. Lol

l.m.f.a.o

[Fil131]

That's awesome! Glad it was a successful print.

Me too, now I just need to locate a Windows PC so I can try design spark, is that what you use for the collator generator?

[TylerR]

Me too, now I just need to locate a Windows PC so I can try design spark, is that what you use for the collator generator?

No that is coded in openscad.

[GWS]

I think this will work for my mount to share with 3 presses.....

It's made mostly with 1 1/4" steel tubing, bolted to my shelf on the left, and to my existing steel tube vertical on the right. The pivot bracket, the angled arm base, and the bracket fasten to the existing tubing on the right, is 1 1/2" tubing. Now to bug my welder nephew who owes me.....just two simple welds....;) All the heavy work will be with a hack saw, a drill press, and a grinder....by me.

Made to slide along the horizontal and I'll use a thumb screw to tighten the angled arm base to the front of the horizontal rail. Drawing dimensions are in inches. (the blue parts are aluminum angle already screwed to the base)

https://i.postimg.cc/DwntBR7n/BF-mount-Model.jpg

[gnafin]

Here it is I couldn't tell that the attach files was a link to click on.
268906

i am using the same color.268951

[Fil131]

i am using the same color.268951

Sweet, how long is yours estimating?

[lablover]

I removed the body I made for the JGY motor because it is not really strong enough to power the larger feeder, and I figured its better to take the option away then have people try it and be disappointed in the results.

That being said, I just modified the original AM body to have a 15mm center hole for you. I put it in the shared folder. Let me know when you have it because I am not going to leave it there.

Could you leave that file in there just a bit longer? I’d like to use it for a smaller bullet feeder for my32 acp stuff. Plus have a few spare motors as well
Thanks

[lablover]

Btw, mine finished. Love that overture pro filament


268965

[TylerR]

Could you leave that file in there just a bit longer? I’d like to use it for a smaller bullet feeder for my32 acp stuff. Plus have a few spare motors as well
Thanks

It's back up.


Btw, mine finished. Love that overture pro filament
Very nice! How long did it take?

[lablover]

It's back up.


Very nice! How long did it take?

36 hours. I may change the nozzle to a .6 and do another just for giggles. May have to do a little sanding as the flipper plate is pretty tight. Not sure if you experienced this.

Got the file, thanks a bunch

[lablover]

Tyler BTW, that pistol brass base down plate. How did you orient that on the build plate? Assume you had to use supports on that one?

[TylerR]

36 hours. I may change the nozzle to a .6 and do another just for giggles. May have to do a little sanding as the flipper plate is pretty tight. Not sure if you experienced this.

Got the file, thanks a bunch

I mentioned that the tolerance for that part is a close fit on purpose in case people want to use a set screw and change its position for various calibers. It should be snug the first couple of times you put it in, and then it will loosen up over time. If people think its too tight I am not against taking off another .1mm.

[TylerR]

Tyler BTW, that pistol brass base down plate. How did you orient that on the build plate? Assume you had to use supports on that one?

Nothing that I posted needs support to print. I hate supports! Are you talking about the collator plate or the slide?

[lablover]

Nothing that I posted needs support to print. I hate supports! Are you talking about the collator plate or the slide?

The slide with the big funnel attached. I think I have it figured out. I just rotated it to lay flat

[TylerR]

The slide with the big funnel attached. I think I have it figured out. I just rotated it to lay flat

Exactly. Flat side down. Good to go. I was able to make that one piece because the top of that slide is flat. All of the other ones are two pieces.

[TylerR]

The slide with the big funnel attached. I think I have it figured out. I just rotated it to lay flat

So how tight is the other slide in the body? Can you insert it at all without sanding? I am just thinking the case base down one has no need to be anything but all the way in, so I can adjust it before you go to print.

[lablover]

So how tight is the other slide in the body? Can you insert it at all without sanding? I am just thinking the case base down one has no need to be anything but all the way in, so I can adjust it before you go to print.

It takes some force. Couldnt get it back off without a pair of pliers no damage however. I think if you adjust it a tad that would work. I'm used to having a small set screw to keep them in place.

EDIT*****
in the openscad file you have you have Add Pivots for base down brass feeding. I thought the pivots are for open side down brass feeding? Only reason I ask is because in your base down brass feeding video I dont notice the pivots on the plate

[TylerR]

It takes some force. Couldnt get it back off without a pair of pliers no damage however. I think if you adjust it a tad that would work. I'm used to having a small set screw to keep them in place.

EDIT*****
in the openscad file you have you have Add Pivots for base down brass feeding. I thought the pivots are for open side down brass feeding? Only reason I ask is because in your base down brass feeding video I dont notice the pivots on the plate

I will take off .1mm and repost.

Base down brass feeding does not use pivots. Only base up. So the default for brass is addPivots=false.

This is what I have in the comments:

// ### BRASS SETTINGS ###
addPivots = false;
addSlides = false;
addRidges = true;
bevelSize = 1.6;

description="Small Pistol Brass";
caliber=12.0;
collator_plate_h=7;

description="Large Pistol Brass";
caliber=15.0;
collator_plate_h=8;

description="Small Brass Base Up";
caliber=10.0
collator_plate_h=19;
addPivots = true;

description="Large Brass Base Up";
caliber=12.5;
collator_plate_h=22;
addPivots = true;