Making that Bullet Collator

[impala68]

yea it appears i had some elephant footing on the bases of the drop tubes

even just measuring my adaptor shows the tolerance difference is only .1 mm

[thump_rrr]

The die only needs to be inserted in to the press far enough to get the bullet to drop, but I understand with longer cases it still has to complete the cycle upwards. Curious, on your setup is the bottom of the die body flush with the press? Or does it extend down below? Also, which set of holes are you using for the ball bearings?
I am flush or a little above the base of the bushing.
I’m using the second set of holes from the bottom.
Any higher and the balls can fall out.

[TylerR]

I am flush or a little above the base of the bushing.
I’m using the second set of holes from the bottom.
Any higher and the balls can fall out.

After watching your video and putting more thought in to it, I am going to increase the body length of the rifle dies 25mm. I will also lower the spring clips some so larger springs can be used. Time to look at other springs again I guess. lol

Something like this:

277459

[thump_rrr]

After watching your video and putting more thought in to it, I am going to increase the body length of the rifle dies 25mm. I will also lower the spring clips some so larger springs can be used. Time to look at other springs again I guess. lol

Something like this:

277459
Can you make a prettier version of my die nut with spring clips?
The lower the mounting point the lower the ratio of spring stretching.
If you’re going to modify the die body can you mark it as a 6.5mm?

[GWS]

Maybe a second die nut on top of the one that doesn't have to tighten against the press.....so you can adjust the die where you want it without the nut's rotation or position being a factor. The second nut can then adjust up or down to fit many spring lengths.

[TylerR]

Maybe a second die nut on top of the one that doesn't have to tighten against the press.....so you can adjust the die where you want it without the nut's rotation or position being a factor. The second nut can then adjust up or down to fit many spring lengths.

Yeah I like the idea of just using a second nut for longer springs. I actually lowered the clips 5mm across the board for more space. Going to jump on mcmaster carr at some point and see what other springs might be good.

[thump_rrr]

Yeah I like the idea of just using a second nut for longer springs. I actually lowered the clips 5mm across the board for more space. Going to jump on mcmaster carr at some point and see what other springs might be good.
Somewhere in the manual there was a recommended box of assorted springs.
Do you happen to have that box of springs because there are a lot of springs in there that will do the job.

[TylerR]

Somewhere in the manual there was a recommended box of assorted springs.
Do you happen to have that box of springs because there are a lot of springs in there that will do the job.

I don't, no.

[TylerR]

Well I posted a new version of 1.4.0. I changed the rifle dies and added a lock ring with spring clips. I did not change the name of the 7mm die cause that would mess with o416's stuff, but I did open the inside up to 7.3mm.

[silahtar]

Hi Tyler,

Any plans to develop a .44 bullet feeder (.43 dia)? Not sure if .45 die body can be used with a new insert for .43...

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,

Any plans to develop a .44 bullet feeder (.43 dia)? Not sure if .45 die body can be used with a new insert for .43...

.45 die should work without modification. I did some testing here with some cast .44

[thump_rrr]

I don't, no.
This is what comes in the kit for about $10.00.
https://i.postimg.cc/s2vFVRDh/66-AFEEB2-BA68-4-A9-B-8034-8382-EDEC95-AA.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bGcVTWny)

[GWS]

Yeah I like the idea of just using a second nut for longer springs. I actually lowered the clips 5mm across the board for more space. Going to jump on mcmaster carr at some point and see what other springs might be good.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50456A-Assortment-Compression-Extension/dp/B000K7M36W/ref=asc_df_B000K7M36W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312270715091&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2867742638946970414&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030489&hvtargid=pla-432814946379&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61740029026&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312270715091&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2867742638946970414&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030489&hvtargid=pla-432814946379

Check this source....price is right.....think I'll order some too. (just posted seconds after Thumper.....same source it appears.;))

[thump_rrr]

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50456A-Assortment-Compression-Extension/dp/B000K7M36W/ref=asc_df_B000K7M36W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312270715091&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2867742638946970414&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030489&hvtargid=pla-432814946379&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61740029026&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312270715091&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2867742638946970414&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030489&hvtargid=pla-432814946379

Check that source....price is right.....think I'll order some too.
That’s the same set I got for around $10.00.

[TylerR]

That’s the same set I got for around $10.00.

Looks like a pretty good deal for $10.
Do you have any intentions of printing out the new die body? Or are you going to stick with what you have? The insert you have should work with the new body.

[silahtar]

.45 die should work without modification. I did some testing here with some cast .44

Perfect, I'll try and report back.

Also, would you like me to send you the native file for square post mounting base?

[TylerR]

Perfect, I'll try and report back.

Also, would you like me to send you the native file for square post mounting base?

Sure I am always up for adding more mounting options. It was asked sometime back, I just never got to it.

[TylerR]

Perfect, I'll try and report back.

Also, would you like me to send you the native file for square post mounting base?

Oh and go grab the latest, I just tweaked all the feed dies to allow for longer springs.

[silahtar]

As you can see 1 corner of the support isn’t playing nice. Hopefully it holds up because this is a 20hr print that is only 69% complete. Walls 6 50% fill.

Once this finishes I’ll switch over to PLA and try to get a completed die by tomorrow night.
At worst this weekend I should have one to test.
https://i.postimg.cc/gk9qwD4T/9-E0153-ED-75-A6-4946-8066-A920-FA6-EDCBF.jpg (https://postimg.cc/6T0GgCkr)


I've started printing small parts with a resin printer... What a difference in terms of quality and speed, as I can print multiple parts at once and duration depends only on the tallest part... Especially worked great with feeding dies... 600 of 9mm loaded, no issues so far...

[thump_rrr]

Looks like a pretty good deal for $10.
Do you have any intentions of printing out the new die body? Or are you going to stick with what you have? The insert you have should work with the new body.

Just warming up the printer and I will be printing the longer die body and new lock nut.

[TylerR]

Just warming up the printer and I will be printing the longer die body and new lock nut.

Great! Please let me know how it goes.

[thump_rrr]

I've started printing small parts with a resin printer... What a difference in terms of quality and speed, as I can print multiple parts at once and duration depends only on the tallest part... Especially worked great with feeding dies... 600 of 9mm loaded, no issues so far...

Link to said resin printer please :-)

[silahtar]

Sure I am always up for adding more mounting options. It was asked sometime back, I just never got to it.

What is the best way to send you the native file?

[TylerR]

What is the best way to send you the native file?

just the stl file should be fine. You can drop it in the "Shared Documents" folder in my sig line.

[thump_rrr]

Great! Please let me know how it goes.

It says 3 hours 33 minutes.
If I don’t pass out on the couch you’ll have an update tonight.

Spent all day getting this thing fine tuned in -18c (0F) weather.

https://youtu.be/96K7bSjHfhQ

[TylerR]

It says 3 hours 33 minutes.
If I don’t pass out on the couch you’ll have an update tonight.

Spent all day getting this thing fine tuned in -18c (0F) weather.

Damn, that's cool man. What state are we talking here?

[thump_rrr]

Damn, that's cool man. What state are we talking here?

I’m in Montreal Canada

[TylerR]

I’m in Montreal Canada

Oh yes, I believe you mentioned that. Mind like a sieve here. lol

[silahtar]

just the stl file should be fine. You can drop it in the "Shared Documents" folder in my sig line.

Uploaded... Feel free to modify as required...

[silahtar]

Oh and go grab the latest, I just tweaked all the feed dies to allow for longer springs.

So, die grabs the .43 bullets, no problem. However, the case diameter is too small to push the insert unless the case mouth is flared quite an exaggerated amount...

The case on the left and centre will slip into the insert, the case on the right will push the insert to drop a bullet...

277500

[thump_rrr]

Longer die body and new nut a success.
Now using 2nd set of holes from top.

https://youtu.be/vbEyQJbGe0c

[TylerR]

So, die grabs the .43 bullets, no problem. However, the case diameter is too small to push the insert unless the case mouth is flared quite an exaggerated amount...

The case on the left and centre will slip into the insert, the case on the right will push the insert to drop a bullet...


Let me see what I can do. Might need a dedicated .44 die after all, or at least a different insert.

[TylerR]

Longer die body and new nut a success.
Now using 2nd set of holes from top.

Hey well one out of two aint bad :)

[TylerR]

So, die grabs the .43 bullets, no problem. However, the case diameter is too small to push the insert unless the case mouth is flared quite an exaggerated amount...

The case on the left and centre will slip into the insert, the case on the right will push the insert to drop a bullet...


I just uploaded a .44 insert. Please try it with the .45 die body and let me know how it works.

[silahtar]

I just uploaded a .44 insert. Please try it with the .45 die body and let me know how it works.

Will do and report back... Thanks...

[thump_rrr]

Hi thump_rrr,
One thing you may want to check is your printer's calibration. Here's an excellent video that guides you through the process (it's also in the manual.) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGI) I bring it up as I was having issues with the Ball Bearing holes on the .45 bullet dropper and worked with TylerR the get that dialed in, but first I calibrated my printer and found it was out by enough to cause some of the issues. Also, I slice with Cura, and it has the same horizontal expansion feature as well as one for just holes. Here's video from Chep that explains how it's used. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jsBI3OeUJQ) Hope it helps.
Ed

Thanks for the link to that Chep video.
I finally found the time to look at it.
I will find time in the next few days to play with it and get it dialed in.

[silahtar]

Hi Tyler, I wanted to print the base down brass slide plate and noticed the STL file places the part with a 0.1deg rotated on the Y axis as it appears in the slicing software; just FYI...
277505

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler, I wanted to print the base down brass slide plate and noticed the STL file places the part with a 0.1deg rotated on the Y axis as it appears in the slicing software; just FYI...

I don't do anything special to the file when I save out an STL. What slicer is that? That doesn't happen to me when I load it up in my version of Cura.

[GWS]

I don't do anything special to the file when I save out an STL. What slicer is that? That doesn't happen to me when I load it up in my version of Cura.

Nor mine using IdeaMaker.

[boardthatpowder]

I'm unable to run the PartsGenerator.jar on a Mac. Decompiling it and looking at the source code there are quite a few places where file names/paths are being constructed with hardcoded string `\` as the path separator instead of using something like `java.io.File.separator`. This won't work on anything but Windows.

Is the source code in a repo somewhere so I can fix it?

[o416]

I'm unable to run the PartsGenerator.jar on a Mac. Decompiling it and looking at the source code there are quite a few places where file names/paths are being constructed with hardcoded string `\` as the path separator instead of using something like `java.io.File.separator`. This won't work on anything but Windows.

Is the source code in a repo somewhere so I can fix it?

My normal response to Mac users is buy a real computer hahahaha

But you are right, I should have used "/" instead of ""

I will put up a link shortly for you :)

[TylerR]

My normal response to Mac users is buy a real computer hahahaha

But you are right, I should have used "/" instead of ""

I will put up a link shortly for you :)

That's it. You're fired!

[o416]

That's it. You're fired!

That's fine, the benefits sucked anyways :P

[silahtar]

Nor mine using IdeaMaker.

That was Chitubox, looks like the slicer doing something then...

[o416]

I'm unable to run the PartsGenerator.jar on a Mac. Decompiling it and looking at the source code there are quite a few places where file names/paths are being constructed with hardcoded string `\` as the path separator instead of using something like `java.io.File.separator`. This won't work on anything but Windows.

Is the source code in a repo somewhere so I can fix it?

Try this version for Mac:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KsvC9eAXY3ocIB0emRn9pItwJ9dpRE2Q/view?usp=sharing

My only concern is with the OpenSCAD CLI commands on a Mac. They might not work the way I am calling for collator plate generation.

Can you please test the Collator Plate Generator too?

Thx!

[boardthatpowder]

My normal response to Mac users is buy a real computer hahahaha

haha that's exactly what I say to Windows users ;)


Try this version for Mac:

Thanks for the quick turnaround but it's still failing. Decompiling I see a mixture of hardcoded Windows and non-Windows paths. Instead of building paths by concatenating strings can you try platform agnostic such as ```new File(path, filename).getAbsolutePath()```? Or is you can send me over the source code I can update it and test it then send it back.

[o416]

haha that's exactly what I say to Windows users ;)



Thanks for the quick turnaround but it's still failing. Decompiling I see a mixture of hardcoded Windows and non-Windows paths. Instead of building paths by concatenating strings can you try platform agnostic such as ```new File(path, filename).getAbsolutePath()```? Or is you can send me over the source code I can update it and test it then send it back.

The only hardcoded Windows stuff are the paths to the project and OpenSCAD. I have removed those now and use System queries to get locations for both.

Here is the new link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FgZl5LowsBRsidETnlxiMqJukfO2KKXN/view?usp=sharing

The Project Generator part should work flawlessly now. The Collator Plate Genertor might not because the CLI commands for Mac might be different.

Can you please verify if the Project Generator is creating the ZIP files? Make sure that the path to the project is correct; if the .jar is in the project that will suffice

Then, test the Collator Plate Generator and let me know what happens. We can then look at sending you the source.

Thx!

[o416]

haha that's exactly what I say to Windows users ;)



Thanks for the quick turnaround but it's still failing. Decompiling I see a mixture of hardcoded Windows and non-Windows paths. Instead of building paths by concatenating strings can you try platform agnostic such as ```new File(path, filename).getAbsolutePath()```? Or is you can send me over the source code I can update it and test it then send it back.

A screenshot of what you see would be nice too :)

[boardthatpowder]

The app loads and displays the correct path for the project location. When I click start is see an empty Parts.zip created with 0 file size, but nothing else. The decompiled code looks like it publishes progress messages but all I see is the progress bar moving as the following:

277563

Maybe an error somewhere still with it trying to determine the path of the stl to add to the zip?

[silahtar]

I just uploaded a .44 insert. Please try it with the .45 die body and let me know how it works.

Tried with some jacketed and cast bullets, all worked nicely; much appreciated... Maybe it could be a good idea to rename the die body as .45/.44 now that it works for both...

[o416]

The app loads and displays the correct path for the project location. When I click start is see an empty Parts.zip created with 0 file size, but nothing else. The decompiled code looks like it publishes progress messages but all I see is the progress bar moving as the following:

277563

Maybe an error somewhere still with it trying to determine the path of the stl to add to the zip?

I am stumped. The fact that it is creating a .zip file in the folder shows that it has the paths correct.

PM me your email.

[thump_rrr]

7mm Die body needs another modification.
I installed it on the progressive for the first time and I can’t get it low enough to touch the shell plate as the other bullet feeder dies do.
I think the body length is good but another 1” of thread is needed.
https://i.postimg.cc/rFFyDJmW/E3-F1501-B-60-D4-4640-A7-DE-0-B63-F890-A218.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qgSHY22M)
https://i.postimg.cc/Qx481T9z/EE7-AA2-F3-AA0-D-4-DF3-A250-66-B80-E003-D54.jpg (https://postimg.cc/TpbvXhcj)
https://i.postimg.cc/cLvsmLfL/F586-DF9-B-EA86-407-E-8-CE4-2-F7175-E73210.jpg (https://postimg.cc/zy1ZD5ds)

[RedlegEd]

7mm Die body needs another modification.
I installed it on the progressive for the first time and I can’t get it low enough to touch the shell plate as the other bullet feeder dies do.
I think the body length is good but another 1” of thread is needed.]

Hi thump_rrr,
Just curious, why does it need to touch the shell plate? Does the case not push up high enough to actuate the dropper? Also, I see you're using both the locknut and spring holder. Does it help if you remove the locknut and just use the spring holder as it appears that's just about all the distance you're short?
Ed

[thump_rrr]

Hi thump_rrr,
Just curious, why does it need to touch the shell plate? Does the case not push up high enough to actuate the dropper? Also, I see you're using both the locknut and spring holder. Does it help if you remove the locknut and just use the spring holder as it appears that's just about all the distance you're short?
Ed
If I don't use the second locknut I can get it low enough to where it will actuate but then I don't have any adjustability to where the springs end up especially with the other spring attachment points on the die body.
Also when I add the other dies to the press I may need to rotate the drop tube so that the switch doesn't get in the way of other things.
A little more adjustability wouldn't hurt.
You can see how much more adjustability the Hornady dies have.
It's not like the real estate isn't there to add more threads.

[TylerR]

If I don't use the second locknut I can get it low enough to where it will actuate but then I don't have any adjustability to where the springs end up especially with the other spring attachment points on the die body.
Also when I add the other dies to the press I may need to rotate the drop tube so that the switch doesn't get in the way of other things.
A little more adjustability wouldn't hurt.
You can see how much more adjustability the Hornady dies have.
It's not like the real estate isn't there to add more threads.

As Ed pointed out, there is no reason for the die body to touch the shell plate, like you would with a sizing die. Technically, the die only needs to be screwed in far enough to get a bullet to drop when the brass case is in its highest position. With these rifle dies, I suspect that happens before the die is even all the way in the press. In which case, you would just screw it in flush to the bottom so you have full thread engagement, but even that isn't actually necessary to get the dropper to function the way it's supposed to.

Just to add. The reason why the springs had to stretch so far before was because the die body was not long enough, but screwing it overly far in the press will make it worse as well. With the new longer die body, adjustments to the spring clips, and screwing the die in flush, a much shorter spring can be used with the dedicated clip points on the die itself. The new springs I ordered are .875" long (but 1" would work too) and will stretch 2" at max load, which I believe will work very well.

[thump_rrr]

As Ed pointed out, there is no reason for the die body to touch the shell plate, like you would with a sizing die. Technically, the die only needs to be screwed in far enough to get a bullet to drop when the brass case is in its highest position. With these rifle dies, I suspect that happens before the die is even all the way in the press. In which case, you would just screw it in flush to the bottom so you have full thread engagement, but even that isn't actually necessary to get the dropper to function the way it's supposed to.

Just to add. The reason why the springs had to stretch so far before was because the die body was not long enough, but screwing it overly far in the press will make it worse as well. With the new longer die body, adjustments to the spring clips, and screwing the die in flush, a much shorter spring can be used with the dedicated clip points on the die itself. The new springs I ordered are .875" long (but 1" would work too) and will stretch 2" at max load, which I believe will work very well.In the limited testing I’ve done today the only time it is dropping bullets reliably 100% of the time is when it is almost touching the plate.
I haven’t had a lot of time this morning because I am on my way to go shooting.

[TylerR]

In the limited testing I’ve done today the only time it is dropping bullets reliably 100% of the time is when it is almost touching the plate.
I haven’t had a lot of time this morning because I am on my way to go shooting.

I am not sure but that should have nothing to do with it. The way you are supposed to set the die, is to first pick a set of bearing holes that are slightly below the height of the bullet. Assemble the die, screw it part way in to the press and place a couple of bullets into it. Put a piece of brass in the shell plate and raise it to its highest point. Continue screwing the die in to the press until a bullet drops. Screw the die another full turn and you should be good to go.

[TylerR]

I just created a dedicated .44 die body. It is 10mm longer then the 45 to account for the longer case. Will be in the next update.

[yoterunner]

Printed the body and the 223 bullet plate. the plate needed to be sanded down to make it fit the body without hanging up. It was making contact on opposite sides, Upper Left and Lower Right. Anybody have problem with this before? Could my printer be slightly off? I did notice a slight elephants foot, however I still had contact after getting this smoothed out and that was just on two or three "segments" of the plate

[TylerR]

Printed the body and the 223 bullet plate. the plate needed to be sanded down to make it fit the body without hanging up. It was making contact on opposite sides, Upper Left and Lower Right. Anybody have problem with this before? Could my printer be slightly off? I did notice a slight elephants foot, however I still had contact after getting this smoothed out and that was just on two or three "segments" of the plate

In the latest version the stock plates are set to 180mm, which is 2mm less then the body. I made this change to reduce the slop for certain bullets that people were having problems with. It was 179.5mm before. You can reprint the plate at 179.5mm or less if you need to.

[witz]

Is anyone mounting the bullet feeder on a Dillon 1050/1100? I am sure they are, but I feel as though the mounts are more designed for the 650/750. I would think that the mount would work best attached to the left of the main body, but it appears only to attach to the back or the right side. I am sure I am missing something since this everything seems so well designed.

[TylerR]

Is anyone mounting the bullet feeder on a Dillon 1050/1100? I am sure they are, but I feel as though the mounts are more designed for the 650/750. I would think that the mount would work best attached to the left of the main body, but it appears only to attach to the back or the right side. I am sure I am missing something since this everything seems so well designed.

The mount holes are on all 3 sides, but depending on which motor you are using it can make a difference. I only have a Dillon 650, so it would help if you defined more what you need for the 1100 and we can help.

Edited: I take that back. you are correct there are no mounting holes on the left hand side. That is the side the electronics box typically sits. Any reason why a rear mount would not work?

[GWS]

Is anyone mounting the bullet feeder on a Dillon 1050/1100? I am sure they are, but I feel as though the mounts are more designed for the 650/750. I would think that the mount would work best attached to the left of the main body, but it appears only to attach to the back or the right side. I am sure I am missing something since this everything seems so well designed.

It is well designed, but not for your press. It's not designed for mine either. You might just have to come up with your own mounts like I did for my RCBS Pro Chucker 7.........

https://i.postimg.cc/k571BwM1/Feeder-mount-1.jpg

Above, in my hand is the 3d printed mount that will be pluged into the end of a piece of square tubing.....mine's mounted sideways, but it'd be just as simple to mount it pointing straight down to a post.....

https://i.postimg.cc/d0nWddLq/Feeder-mount-2.jpg

You have three choices of holes.....back and two sides.....
On this one I mounted it on the left two holes using a short piece of Aluminum Angle and a 3d printed cube with a hex coupler inside.....the back ones I mounted a speed control box, the right side is still open. Just to give you some ideas.....

With a little effort you can make it sing!;)


https://youtu.be/JEJkY9nzMMQ

[witz]

The mount holes are on all 3 sides, but depending on which motor you are using it can make a difference. I only have a Dillon 650, so it would help if you defined more what you need for the 1100 and we can help.

Edited: I take that back. you are correct there are no mounting holes on the left hand side. That is the side the electronics box typically sits. Any reason why a rear mount would not work?

On the 1050, the case feeder sits on the opposite side. It might work with the rear mount - I havent fully built it yet, so I am not sure how the orientation will be. I hope to get a mock up tomorrow to see how it all goes together. I need to make a run to Lowes - what size screws are people using to attach everything together?

[RedlegEd]

I need to make a run to Lowes - what size screws are people using to attach everything together?
Hi,
I know many folks are using metric, and the assortment listed in the manual is a good one, as is this one: VIGRUE M2-M3-M4-1080PCS Stainless Steel Screws and Nuts, 1080 Pcs Hex Socket Head Cap, Silver. (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJQC7T6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title? ie=UTF8&psc=1) I got the Cap Screw version, but I also found that SAE#6 screws of various lengths also work well. The benefit of the metric screws is that the motors have metric threads in their mounts, and all of the CAD software used in designing the parts is done in metric. Once you get used to it, metric is way easier to use since it's all decimal based instead of hexadecimal. BTW, like my friend GWS, I'm also somewhat of a divergent, and I'm mounting my bullet feeder to the right of my case feeder on my XL650. Hope this helps.
Ed

[SuperMoose]

Has anyone designed a mount for a small mirror to put on top of the bullet feeder (and/or Dillon case feeder)?

Ordered most of the hardware, etc. to actually build this thing (and I believe it is now all printed)...just waiting on my RL1100 to show up.

[TylerR]

On the 1050, the case feeder sits on the opposite side. It might work with the rear mount - I havent fully built it yet, so I am not sure how the orientation will be. I hope to get a mock up tomorrow to see how it all goes together. I need to make a run to Lowes - what size screws are people using to attach everything together?

I would certainly be willing to throw something together based on what you are looking for.

[witz]

Hi,
I know many folks are using metric, and the assortment listed in the manual is a good one, as is this one: VIGRUE M2-M3-M4-1080PCS Stainless Steel Screws and Nuts, 1080 Pcs Hex Socket Head Cap, Silver. (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJQC7T6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title? ie=UTF8&psc=1) I got the Cap Screw version, but I also found that SAE#6 screws of various lengths also work well. The benefit of the metric screws is that the motors have metric threads in their mounts, and all of the CAD software used in designing the parts is done in metric. Once you get used to it, metric is way easier to use since it's all decimal based instead of hexadecimal. BTW, like my friend GWS, I'm also somewhat of a divergent, and I'm mounting my bullet feeder to the right of my case feeder on my XL650. Hope this helps.
Ed

Thank you. I have an assortment I will try, but I think I still need a Lowes run for the 1" 3/8 bolt, nut, and washer for the mount and some nuts for the motor. Unfortunately they never have a good selection of metric.

I also need to figure out my spring adapter so that I can really see how things are going to flow. My Ali spring is 9mm ID and 11mm OD, so it looks like I need to build pair of the #9 adapters. Somewhere I saw the suggestion of threading them in backwards. How does that actually work? I understand that the coil with decrease in diameter when you twist it in the opposite direction, but then it is like unscrewing it too. Do you twist it to make it tighter and then just push it in? Maybe it will be obvious once I get the pieces built.

I am building this one for a friend, so trying to get it to him as soon as possible and the microswitch will be faster since I have them and less engineering on the other sensors. I asked him what colors he wanted and he said "I don't care, you can even make it a unicorn" - That was a mistake on his part since it literally will be a hot mess of colors. After he is up and running, I will work on a proximity version and then upgrade his later. He has little motion of his left hand, so the feeder is really a must for him

[witz]

I would certainly be willing to throw something together based on what you are looking for.

Thank you. I will get some pics of the "unicorn" when its far enough along. Hopefully today or tomorrow, since I have to travel for work tomorrow evening.

[Anuccite]

Thank you. I will get some pics of the "unicorn" when its far enough along. Hopefully today or tomorrow, since I have to travel for work tomorrow evening.

For the 1050, You need to put the mount on the right side of the feeder.... Keep in mind that doing so, MAY require you to have a slightly longer spring....

[Anuccite]

TylerR

Can you add A way to orient the Motor in a different Direction on the M634JS Body?

I'd like to be able to run the motor in this direction.... So it interferes with nothing Regardless of which side I put the mount on....

Don't mind my Crude markup

277708

[TylerR]

For the 1050, You need to put the mount on the right side of the feeder.... Keep in mind that doing so, MAY require you to have a slightly longer spring....

If anyone has any pics of their setup on a 1050/1100 that would help too.

[GWS]

Thank you. I will get some pics of the "unicorn" when its far enough along. Hopefully today or tomorrow, since I have to travel for work tomorrow evening.

Looking forward to seeing pictures for this build for the 1050......and I like unicorn! ;) Good of you to help out your friend! Pictures of his bench/press setup would help too.

[TylerR]

TylerR

Can you add A way to orient the Motor in a different Direction on the M634JS Body?

I'd like to be able to run the motor in this direction.... So it interferes with nothing Regardless of which side I put the mount on....

Don't mind my Crude markup


Here is the problem with that, circled in red.
277712

I guess I rotated the cutouts for the slot as well it would work.

[Anuccite]

If anyone has any pics of their setup on a 1050/1100 that would help too.

Mine is different But I will put a normal mount on one of the bases and give you a visual. I've just purchased a 750 and I'm printing 2 to add to it

[Anuccite]

Here is the problem with that, circled in red.
277712

I guess I rotated the cutouts for the slot as well it would work.

Even the other way will ultimately work

[TylerR]

Even the other way will ultimately work

I will take a look at it.

[Anuccite]

If anyone has any pics of their setup on a 1050/1100 that would help too.

277713

[witz]

Initially I will dry fit it on my 1050, but he has an 1100 which is essentially the same. I have a shelf that might hit the feeder that he wont have. Ultimately I might have to remove/move the shelf for my setup if I mount it on the right of the case feeder.

[witz]

277713

How are you routing the spring? Under the case feeder or behind it?

[Anuccite]

How are you routing the spring? Under the case feeder or behind it?

I'm not using Tyler's newer BF on the 1050 yet... But when I do, It will mount in the same way that it's mounted now... from my ceiling... See right side bullet feeder

[TylerR]

Even the other way will ultimately work

I could do this. 45 degrees between back and left side. Let's get some input before I implement the change for good.

277719

[Anuccite]

I could do this. 45 degrees between back and left side. Let's get some input before I implement the change for good.

277719

If you do that, You could add holes (or at least A hole) for the Dillon mount to work on the left side of the collator.

One top hole would hold it fine..

[kc10kevin]

I could do this. 45 degrees between back and left side. Let's get some input before I implement the change for good.

277719

I like it! Should work great. Been wanting to try that motor but haven't due to the mounting issues noted here. Will have to print one up if you do make the change. Thanks Tyler.

[XGN 0SPREY]

Do you guys recommend printing a bullet dropper die or is it better to buy one from DAA. I already planned on buying the spring and 9mm powder funnel from them. Any help is greatly appreciated

[RedlegEd]

Do you guys recommend printing a bullet dropper die or is it better to buy one from DAA. I already planned on buying the spring and 9mm powder funnel from them. Any help is greatly appreciated
Hi and welcome to Cast Boolits.
I'd say print one first, try it, and see how you like it. If it works, you're golden. If not, then what have you lost besides a little time, some filament, and maybe some 3.5mm ball bearings? The whole idea of this project is for you to do things for yourself. Them's my dos centavos!
Ed

[kc10kevin]

Do you guys recommend printing a bullet dropper die or is it better to buy one from DAA. I already planned on buying the spring and 9mm powder funnel from them. Any help is greatly appreciated

Agree with Ed. I have both. Used the DAA for a long time and TBH, they work really well. I printed up a 9mm and tried it out. Once I got operating nice and smooth (sanding, filing, acetone, etc), it worked just as good as the DAA dropper. Whoever designed it did some outstanding work!! I really wish I would have found this project a couple months earlier!! Like Ed says, try it out first and if you don't like it, buy the DAA.

[TylerR]

Agree with Ed. I have both. Used the DAA for a long time and TBH, they work really well. I printed up a 9mm and tried it out. Once I got operating nice and smooth (sanding, filing, acetone, etc), it worked just as good as the DAA dropper. Whoever designed it did some outstanding work!! I really wish I would have found this project a couple months earlier!! Like Ed says, try it out first and if you don't like it, buy the DAA.

Well thank you!

[XGN 0SPREY]

Yeah I think I'll try the printed version. If I'm gonna go the cheapo route I might as well print it all and use this wonderful resource made available to me. Its kinda hard to believe that somebody is sharing their creation for free considering what a masterfully crafted design it is.

[silahtar]

Agree with Ed. I have both. Used the DAA for a long time and TBH, they work really well. I printed up a 9mm and tried it out. Once I got operating nice and smooth (sanding, filing, acetone, etc), it worked just as good as the DAA dropper. Whoever designed it did some outstanding work!! I really wish I would have found this project a couple months earlier!! Like Ed says, try it out first and if you don't like it, buy the DAA.

I print them using a resin printer, works straight out of the printer without any filing, sanding, smoothing etc... Can't get any better than that...

[CS223]

Going to give this project a go as well as soon as I mod my printer to expand the work envelope a little. One question, I have the Dayton 52JE51 motor and I've looked everywhere in the manual and did a search and I haven't found the measurement for drilling the cross hole in the motor shaft for the roll pin, is there a spec for that?

[TylerR]

New version posted with dedicated .44 die body.

[XGN 0SPREY]

Where can the official most current files be found. I'm currently using files I found a link to on a YouTube video in somebody's personal Google drive.

[TylerR]

Where can the official most current files be found. I'm currently using files I found a link to on a YouTube video in somebody's personal Google drive.

Look in my signature. Just posted latest.

[o416]

Look in my signature. Just posted latest.

FYI The manual in the drive is v2.1 while the zip file has v2.3 :)

[TylerR]

FYI The manual in the drive is v2.1 while the zip file has v2.3 :)

Damn hired help! Fixed :)

[yoterunner]

In the latest version the stock plates are set to 180mm, which is 2mm less then the body. I made this change to reduce the slop for certain bullets that people were having problems with. It was 179.5mm before. You can reprint the plate at 179.5mm or less if you need to.

Thanks, appreciate the feedback. I may try to go bit smaller for the next one.

[GWS]

Thank you. I will get some pics of the "unicorn" when its far enough along. Hopefully today or tomorrow, since I have to travel for work tomorrow evening.

jmorris sent me some pictures of his 1050 mounts he made for Mikes small collator base and gave me permission to share them with you. Quoting what he said about the pictures:

I am out of room to up load over there [CastBoolits] but have attached two different 1050 mounts. One is behind the case collator (case collator is removed so it can be seen), the other is to the right of it behind the press. The long spring is key because the tool head goes up and down on them.

The other photos are of the mount for the printed collators I made.


Pictures below: The first two pictures show feeders in relation to the 1050 press:

https://i.postimg.cc/QtMgbBvh/Jmorris-4.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/GpKJGP7X/jmorris-2.jpg

Below you can see a horseshoe shaped mount for his AmmoMike printed collator. Using all the mounting holes on the bottom. Maybe one side would be enough. But you get the idea.
https://i.postimg.cc/Bv4Bj7g8/jmorris-1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/cH5R5xNY/jmorris-5.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/6q2dkk9P/jmorris-3.jpg


Of course his mounts are steel not plastic, but still should give you an idea of the options he used. (where he put the mounts on the collator, and where around the Dillon he mounted it to.

[witz]

Agree with Ed. I have both. Used the DAA for a long time and TBH, they work really well. I printed up a 9mm and tried it out. Once I got operating nice and smooth (sanding, filing, acetone, etc), it worked just as good as the DAA dropper. Whoever designed it did some outstanding work!! I really wish I would have found this project a couple months earlier!! Like Ed says, try it out first and if you don't like it, buy the DAA.

Does acetone work on PLA? I though it was really only good for things like ABS. I havent tried printing the droppers yet either, but i think getting it smooth will be key.

[witz]

Thank you for the pics. I got it working more or less mounted on the left side of the case feeder, but it needs a really long spring. I didnt cut the spring, since it will be a bit different when installed on Justin's 1100 since the stroke is a bit different than a 1050 I believe. I have a few pics of the "ugliness" but for some reason it fails on the upload. Is there a size limitation or something? I sent the feeder home with him yesterday, so I hope to get some pictures of it fully setup and wired properly.

[Mr_Sheesh]

witz, no, Acetone doesn't smooth PLA, just ABS. PLA takes dichloromethane which is "mildly hard on humans" - Bad inhalation hazard & can enter us through the skin.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Witz, yes size limit is something like 100k-200k; I use imgur and no size limitations

[Anuccite]

Thank you Tyler for the updated Main Body for the M634JS Motor!

[SuperMoose]

Well...I think I have everything I need printed...and most of the hardware has arrived (still waiting on my RL1100 so I can't mount it yet anyway). I began assembly this morning and ran into an issue. Both of my collator plates bind against the wall of the main body on the right hand side (if you're looking at it with the opening directly in front of you). Looking to see what solutions exist to this. The best I could think of was to try to sand the sides of the collator plates down to give more clearance to avoid that. Or alternatively, try to resize them while keeping the center hold the same size and then reprinting...although I feel like that's a pain in the butt. I can snap some pictures if it would be helpful but there is definitely clearance on the left side while none on the right.

Any ideas?

[TylerR]

Well...I think I have everything I need printed...and most of the hardware has arrived (still waiting on my RL1100 so I can't mount it yet anyway). I began assembly this morning and ran into an issue. Both of my collator plates bind against the wall of the main body on the right hand side (if you're looking at it with the opening directly in front of you). Looking to see what solutions exist to this. The best I could think of was to try to sand the sides of the collator plates down to give more clearance to avoid that. Or alternatively, try to resize them while keeping the center hold the same size and then reprinting...although I feel like that's a pain in the butt. I can snap some pictures if it would be helpful but there is definitely clearance on the left side while none on the right.

Any ideas?

This tells me the motor shaft is not quite centered in the collator body most likely.

[GWS]

This tells me the motor shaft is not quite centered in the collator body most likely.

Agree, so try loosening the motor bolts a little and moving or twisting, then retighten. Also make sure there are no proud bolt heads or nuts in the sidewalls that are sticking out. Only takes a little since there is minimum clearance for a reason. (Especially if you are collating rifle bullets.)

[Gussers]

TylerR

Can you add A way to orient the Motor in a different Direction on the M634JS Body?

I'd like to be able to run the motor in this direction.... So it interferes with nothing Regardless of which side I put the mount on....

Don't mind my Crude markup

277708

Great to see this! This is what I was asking for last month. The orientation of the motor blocks a set of holes in the casefeeder body. Positioning the motor between the holes means all 3 sets of mounting holes are available to you. How come nobody understood my drawing the first time around?


Hey, I have a question. I searched through the many pages here and didn't see it asked yet. I built the AmmoMike bulletfeeder using the 370 motor. So far, so good. I am planning to print the larger case feeder and was thinking of using the larger version of the 370 I found. It has about double the torque. One thing I see now (and in the documentation) is the motor orientation is such that it will block one set of mounting holes. I see there are three choices (90, 180 and 270 degrees).

My question is why only orient the motor over the holes. Has anyone tried orienting the motor at 135 or 225 degrees? I did a (poor) tinkercad example of what I'm thinking. If the motor was oriented this way, it appears it should't interfere with the various mounting options. At least the holes are all exposed. This would be the same principle for the larger case feeder. Mainly, it would allow some of us to use the cheaper motor like THIS (https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Greartisan&qid=1611943700&sr=8-4&th=1). The linked motor seems to have similar torque specs to the recommended one (40kg/cm) at half the cost.

Forgive my poor tinkercad attempt at illustrating my suggestion. It's not properly scaled, but you should get the idea.
276325

[GWS]

Witz, yes size limit is something like 100k-200k; I use imgur and no size limitations

Or postimages.org which was what I found after PhotoBucket's world hosting hostage/sabotage fiasco. I surround img with brackets, enter the link from the hosting, bracket, forward slash, img, bracket. As in [/img]

I found that Acetone helps with PLA some. But it can also glue it together a little while soft, so don't insert a part until it dries. TylerR seems to like it on PLA? Maybe depends on the PLA.... I also found it removes any gloss. I was successful using it to remove print ridges inside my .223 bullet drop, by soaking a rag, wrapping a rod with the rag and pushing it in and out. It left it rough, so then wrapped the rod with 400 grit wet/dry and sanded it smooth. A bit of a pain but it was doable, and worked.

[TylerR]

Or postimages.org which was what I found after PhotoBucket's world hosting hostage/sabotage fiasco. I surround img with brackets, enter the link from the hosting, bracket, forward slash, img, bracket. As in [/img]

I found that Acetone helps with PLA some. But it can also glue it together a little while soft, so don't insert a part until it dries. TylerR seems to like it on PLA? Maybe depends on the PLA.... I also found it removes any gloss. I was successful using it to remove print ridges inside my .223 bullet drop, by soaking a rag, wrapping a rod with the rag and pushing it in and out. It left it rough, so then wrapped the rod with 400 grit wet/dry and sanded it smooth. A bit of a pain but it was doable, and worked.

Acetone does work on PLA for me. It just doesn't work as quickly as it does on ABS. And yes it will make it soft and sticky while you are working with it. Best to let it dry for 10 minutes or so before attempting to sand.

[SuperMoose]

Agree, so try loosening the motor bolts a little and moving or twisting, then retighten. Also make sure there are no proud bolt heads or nuts in the sidewalls that are sticking out. Only takes a little since there is minimum clearance for a reason. (Especially if you are collating rifle bullets.)

Tried that and still a little wonky. I'll keep fiddling with it. I have no nuts on the sidewalls currently so nothing to catch there.

For the slip clutch, the bolt heads are a little proud, so I'll probably try to open that up a bit with a drill to seat them flush.

It's pretty cool to see this coming together and working. I think the slickest thing is the bullet drop dies. For some reason that is just super cool to me.

[SuperMoose]

Took a video to show the problems I'm having. Pictures to follow after Imgur comes back online.

ETA: I don't have the speed controller yet. Just testing everything, so its going at full tilt.


https://youtu.be/QiQ-EY39uXw

[TylerR]

Took a video to show the problems I'm having. Pictures to follow after Imgur comes back online.

ETA: I don't have the speed controller yet. Just testing everything, so its going at full tilt.


The whole plate appears shifted to the front right corner. Can we get pics of the motor shaft. Also might want to take some measurements to see how far off center it is.
Which motor are you using again?

Just noticed. Your slide plate is in backwards as well.

[SuperMoose]

The whole plate appears shifted to the front right corner. Can we get pics of the motor shaft. Also might want to take some measurements to see how far off center it is.
Which motor are you using again?

Just noticed. Your slide plate is in backwards as well.

Does this work?

https://i.imgur.com/k6sL0A8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OUVfu9a.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/57VtvkW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3Qvd6FS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vfMgqiv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kWpLLIi.jpg

[RedlegEd]

Hi.
Could you take a picture from the side so we can see the motor shaft in relation to the body (i.e. is it plumb or tipped off to one side?)
Ed

[TylerR]

Studying those pics, something is not right. It is almost as if something is out of round, because you have 0 clearance at the back left and front right corners. To Ed's point, watching the video I notice that the plate is tilting on its side at times. You can see that right where the plate meets the ramp.

[witz]

I would also think you might be able to accurately measure from the center of the shaft to multiple points around the body. That will at least tell you if the motor is centered or if there is something else. You could always drag the holes slightly to adjust it if necessary.

[witz]

In looking closer to your motor mounting, I see that you have washers under the nuts. Yours might be different, but I had to remove the washers or the nuts stuck up too far. I did use nylock to ensure they don't vibrate lose and they might be a bit taller-maybe run a straight edge over the top to verify the height of all of them and that doesnt make something tip.

[SuperMoose]

Studying those pics, something is not right. It is almost as if something is out of round, because you have 0 clearance at the back left and front right corners. To Ed's point, watching the video I notice that the plate is tilting on its side at times. You can see that right where the plate meets the ramp.

That's what I was noticing as well. I tried adjusting the motor some and it was a little better than before but still having issues. Pictures were taken before I made the adjustment for whatever it is worth.

https://i.imgur.com/EMClDnX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JbR3YmV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6MBeeTo.jpg

[SuperMoose]

Wonder if your set screw is hitting an edge and skewing it?

Slider is definitely backwards.....hole goes inside. looks warped too. Did it raise off the bed turning the print?

The "2" should be close to the "M" in "Motor".

Possibly. I'll try to grind it down.

Good to know on the slider. I think that one side did raise up. I'll reprint with a brim.

[TylerR]

That's what I was noticing as well. I tried adjusting the motor some and it was a little better than before but still having issues. Pictures were taken before I made the adjustment for whatever it is worth.
https://i.imgur.com/6MBeeTo.jpg

Is it just me or does the hex adapter appear to be leaning to the right in that last pic?

[TylerR]

I just printed those a day or two ago.....this is what they should look like.....


Damn those things are pretty. Haha

[Anuccite]

Get some measurements across that plate in different areas.... I'm suspecting something might be slightly out of wack with the print....

Even measure the clutch piece... see if it's perfectly round

[Anuccite]

Something is definitely up with your printer Look at the holes.. they are not round

277894

[Anuccite]

I just printed those a day or two ago.....this is what they should look like.....

https://i.postimg.cc/x14dX6tS/IMG-3845.jpg

Did you release the cover you created to the Gen pop? I want the lift handle

[GWS]

Be careful.....I'd suspect the picture shooting angle first.....still worth looking closer....but make sure that motor is tight against the bottom of the base....and that the set screw isn't pushing against the hex opening in the plate.


Did you release the cover you created to the Gen pop? I want the lift handle

You're the first who's showed any interest....anything I make is always for sale....the price is always the same....free.

That said it needs a lock nut just below to keep it from acting like a second redundant clutch.

[TylerR]

Something is definitely up with your printer Look at the holes.. they are not round


Hmmm... That one does look out of round doesn't it. Not sure I've ever really seen that before.

[Anuccite]

Be careful.....I'd suspect the picture shooting angle first.....still worth looking closer....but make sure that motor is tight against the bottom of the base....and that the set screw isn't pushing against the hex opening in the plate.



You're the first who's showed any interest....anything I make is always for sale....the price is always the same....free.

That said it needs a lock nut just below to keep it from acting like a second redundant clutch.

Maybe Tyler can add it to contributions!

[Anuccite]

Possibly. I'll try to grind it down.

Good to know on the slider. I think that one side did raise up. I'll reprint with a brim.

Check Belt tension of printer too.... That's a common thing when things go out of round.

[Anuccite]

Just started my #11 Plate.... My 300 Stuff is all going to be Fire Engine red!
277895

[GWS]

Is that red PLA or something beyond my beginner skills. ;) My #11 was red too.....sister to the green above, but more like the ugly half sister. Looked like somebody poured milk in it....uuuugly! This one looks translucent! Looks great so far....

[Anuccite]

Is that red PLA or something beyond my beginner skills. ;) My #11 was red too.....sister to the green above, but more like the ugly half sister. Looked like somebody poured milk in it....uuuugly! This one looks translucent! Looks great so far....


It's was only on lay 2 when taking that pic.... but it is actually called Fire Engine Red

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07846LFNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[yoterunner]

Studying those pics, something is not right. It is almost as if something is out of round, because you have 0 clearance at the back left and front right corners. To Ed's point, watching the video I notice that the plate is tilting on its side at times. You can see that right where the plate meets the ramp.

This is the exact problem that I was asking a couple days ago. If you look at his picture, the upper left above Small Rifle and lower Right, above the other "small Rifle" are both touching or close to the base. This is the same plate that I printed and same base, so I am having the same issue. I sanded down my plate, but do not have the motor yet to try and mount and see how it goes. As Tyler had replied to me is that the tolerance is very tight. I was wondering if it was a printer issue on my end.

[Dsltech1]

Be careful.....I'd suspect the picture shooting angle first.....still worth looking closer....but make sure that motor is tight against the bottom of the base....and that the set screw isn't pushing against the hex opening in the plate.



You're the first who's showed any interest....anything I make is always for sale....the price is always the same....free.

That said it needs a lock nut just below to keep it from acting like a second redundant clutch.

I’m also interested in the handle if you don’t mind sharing it with a newbie to this thread. I’ve been lurking here for a while. I’m just now setup to start on this journey. Once the power situation improves in a couple days anyway.




Assuming it isn’t the camera angle. The back left bolt isn’t threaded as deep as the rest. Also the clutch or hole in the plate is out of round. Zooming in on the first picture the gap is wider towards the rear of the body. It also has the same appearance in the video. Unless that’s how it’s supposed to be?

[TylerR]

This is the exact problem that I was asking a couple days ago. If you look at his picture, the upper left above Small Rifle and lower Right, above the other "small Rifle" are both touching or close to the base. This is the same plate that I printed and same base, so I am having the same issue. I sanded down my plate, but do not have the motor yet to try and mount and see how it goes. As Tyler had replied to me is that the tolerance is very tight. I was wondering if it was a printer issue on my end.

It still makes me wonder about going back to 179.5mm as the default, but then that creates its own set of issues with other situations. Who would think 1/2mm could make such a difference either way.

[TylerR]

Be careful.....I'd suspect the picture shooting angle first.....still worth looking closer....but make sure that motor is tight against the bottom of the base....and that the set screw isn't pushing against the hex opening in the plate.



You're the first who's showed any interest....anything I make is always for sale....the price is always the same....free.

That said it needs a lock nut just below to keep it from acting like a second redundant clutch.

I can definitely add it. I am still trying to figure out a good way to add the handle but not require longer screws to come up through, but have not come up with anything yet.

[SuperMoose]

I printed a new cluch plate and also drilled the shaft on the motor so I could thread the screw all the way in on the hex portion from both sides. I *think* that solved the problem. Mostly anyway...I'll keep playing with it to see.

[GWS]

I can definitely add it. I am still trying to figure out a good way to add the handle but not require longer screws to come up through, but have not come up with anything yet.

The longer screws are actually a good thing IMO, because it makes the plate, the clutch and the handle one assembly that you never have to disassemble. The only flaw is that if you just use a lock nut by itself, it can turn in there.....meaning, if things loosen up and the clutch needs adjusted tighter, you have to remove the handle first.

So either use a square nut like I did on my first one, that won't turn in the limited space and use the lock nut top side, or do what Ed did and create a keeper for the lock nut. His original idea would work with my handle.....but he went further and made a different design......now it's a matter of which an individual likes.

The remaining flaw that I think you don't like is that there are different brands of lock nuts, and one "keeper" may not fit all....and square nuts may or may not be easy for everybody to find. Perfect would be to have a nylon locking square nut, but they don't exist that I'm aware of. OR.......just press a little epoxy putty in one corner, and the nyloc will stay put for a long long time.....the more I think about it....why make it harder than it has to be. ;)


So you all can see this is a design in process......works for me right now, but will it be attractive to everybody? I doubt it, especially not for people who don't improvise or mod things on their own.

That said I sent TylerR the .STL file as is, but I fully expect it will be improved by me or Tyler or Ed, or someone else.;)

[GWS]

Oh, btw, what I did to keep the handle lid from being another clutch, is screw on a nut on each bolt to the level just barely above the plate height, then I placed the lid, hed down with regular nuts over the top finger tight against the nuts just below.....they DO tighten up because the bolts are tight from the square nuts (or in this latest case, nylocs) on top of the clutch itself, so the bolt will not turn. I'll go take a couple of pictures to demonstrate....and will post in this post.

https://i.postimg.cc/s2X8HrFt/IMG-3846.jpg

Okay, on this plate I used 6-32 flat head bolts 1 1/4" long, through the clutch and nutted with 6-32 nylocs.
Then, I screwed on regular 6-32 nuts to raise the handle enough not to tighten to the plate. finger tight only.
https://i.postimg.cc/YC8ZxSP6/IMG-3847.jpg
Finally handle is placed and two more regular 6-32 nuts are screwed on finger tight over the top.
There's room for a thin pallete knife to slide in easily underneath.

[kcollins]

First off, just want to say how cool this is. Got my first printer a few weeks ago and have been making a few parts for my APP presses while I figure all this out. Have been pretty successful so far and that is a testament to R&D you all are doing here.

Have a hopefully simple question. Is there a adapter/connector or combo that would allow the use of the medium and small APP tubes directly with a bullet feeder die?

I will be building a collator after I get up to speed a bit more. In the meantime, I thought I might manually load APP tubes to supply a bullet feeder die in 9mm/38 and 223. Thanks

Thanks

[o416]

It still makes me wonder about going back to 179.5mm as the default, but then that creates its own set of issues with other situations. Who would think 1/2mm could make such a difference either way.

I don't think that extra 0.5mm caused it. I printed 4 plates with the clutches and they cycle fine. I suspect this has more to do with poor printer calibrations than tolerances.

However, the bottom screw holes of the clutch plates are kind of screw specific in that my two hex screws protrude a little below the plate. It would be nice if there wasn't a bevel for tapered screws and something more cylindrical.

[TylerR]

The longer screws are actually a good thing IMO, because it makes the plate, the clutch and the handle one assembly that you never have to disassemble. The only flaw is that if you just use a lock nut by itself, it can turn in there.....meaning, if things loosen up and the clutch needs adjusted tighter, you have to remove the handle first.

So either use a square nut like I did on my first one, that won't turn in the limited space and use the lock nut top side, or do what Ed did and create a keeper for the lock nut. His original idea would work with my handle.....but he went further and made a different design......now it's a matter of which an individual likes.

The remaining flaw that I think you don't like is that there are different brands of lock nuts, and one "keeper" may not fit all....and square nuts may or may not be easy for everybody to find. Perfect would be to have a nylon locking square nut, but they don't exist that I'm aware of. OR.......just press a little epoxy putty in one corner, and the nyloc will stay put for a long long time.....the more I think about it....why make it harder than it has to be. ;)


So you all can see this is a design in process......works for me right now, but will it be attractive to everybody? I doubt it, especially not for people who don't improvise or mod things on their own.

That said I sent TylerR the .STL file as is, but I fully expect it will be improved by me or Tyler or Ed, or someone else.;)

So true my friend.

The main issue I have with it is that it's so easy to say just use a 1/2" long screw no matter what plate you print. Plus, the cover only comes in to play when you are printing a very tall plate.

[TylerR]

I don't think that extra 0.5mm caused it. I printed 4 plates with the clutches and they cycle fine. I suspect this has more to do with poor printer calibrations than tolerances.

However, the bottom screw holes of the clutch plates are kind of screw specific in that my two hex screws protrude a little below the plate. It would be nice if there wasn't a bevel for tapered screws and something more cylindrical.

Yes it is more designed around a flat or pan head head screw, not something like a allen wrench screw like you normally find in metric (whatever you call those) Unfortunately the spacing became really tight there and I couldn't make the hole any deeper without breaking the the no less then .4mm rule. I can take another look at it though.

[TylerR]

I don't think that extra 0.5mm caused it. I printed 4 plates with the clutches and they cycle fine. I suspect this has more to do with poor printer calibrations than tolerances.

However, the bottom screw holes of the clutch plates are kind of screw specific in that my two hex screws protrude a little below the plate. It would be nice if there wasn't a bevel for tapered screws and something more cylindrical.

Also keep in mind the bevel is there to assist in a clean print. That whole no support thing. Although with such a small hole probably not as much of an issue.

[GWS]

So true my friend.

The main issue I have with it is that it's so easy to say just use a 1/2" long screw no matter what plate you print. Plus, the cover only comes in to play when you are printing a very tall plate.

I just don't see it that way, I guess. I plan to have a clutch with each and every plate I print. so each will be a plate assembly that includes a clutch and a handle.....I just don't like trying to get a plate out without a handle. I guess one could use a coupler nut and a cap screw over the nyloc. and use your 1/2" bolt. But I don't see it as being a hard thing to buy 1 1/4 screws for the taller plates......cheaper than most other options.

One thing I was thinking of doing is remaking the lid/handle the same diameter as the clutch parts as Ed did, so the same lid fits all, but then the wide lid fits all too....just leaves a little reveal that I doubt hurts anything or looks bad......will test that theory tomorrow....and if suitable a picture.

I like keeping it simple to a point.....as long as simple joins with easy. ;)


Yes it is more designed around a flat or pan head head screw, not something like a allen wrench screw like you normally find in metric (whatever you call those) Unfortunately the spacing became really tight there and I couldn't make the hole any deeper without breaking the the no less then .4mm rule. I can take another look at it though.


Also keep in mind the bevel is there to assist in a clean print. That whole no support thing. Although with such a small hole probably not as much of an issue.

Any Ace Hardware store has Phillips head flat head machine screws, metric or SAE. But the best fit under the clutch is the 6-32 flat heads.....and they fit better than any of the metric sizes.....not to mention easier for Americans everywhere to find locally. That size head recesses just perfectly. I wouldn't change a thing.

IME, even a small hole has to be cleaned up without a bevel......IMO it's perfect the way it is....just go get a 25 cent machine screw, nyloc and nuts...

[silahtar]

I can definitely add it. I am still trying to figure out a good way to add the handle but not require longer screws to come up through, but have not come up with anything yet.

Why not add the handle to the design of the cover or screw the handle to the cover as a future add-on. You could pre-set holes with the design of the cover for the mounting handle as an option that way? The cover could be extended a bit further over the collator plate and screwed in as well...

[31QjVP]

It still makes me wonder about going back to 179.5mm as the default, but then that creates its own set of issues with other situations. Who would think 1/2mm could make such a difference either way.

I had the same issue when I printed my first clutch plate. My plates from 1.3.3 had fit well but when I printed the clutch plates I had that binding at the same points at the other two. I ended up filing back the case feeder body as my eyes couldn't see anything off in the motor mount position or the angle. It could very well be my printer though as it's been acting up lately. Will tune it up and try another plate to see if it's any better. Somewhat worried it may be the body that is off, not the plates.

[Anuccite]

Is that red PLA or something beyond my beginner skills. ;) My #11 was red too.....sister to the green above, but more like the ugly half sister. Looked like somebody poured milk in it....uuuugly! This one looks translucent! Looks great so far....

Finished product

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[TylerR]

Why not add the handle to the design of the cover or screw the handle to the cover as a future add-on. You could pre-set holes with the design of the cover for the mounting handle as an option that way? The cover could be extended a bit further over the collator plate and screwed in as well...

The handle really can't be part of the cover, because the cover is only used on tall plates. That is why Ed and GWS's handle solutions are so different. It would have to connect directly to the collator plate. Plus the cover is really designed to just snap in and be easily removable. I may throw something together at some point here.

[TylerR]

I had the same issue when I printed my first clutch plate. My plates from 1.3.3 had fit well but when I printed the clutch plates I had that binding at the same points at the other two. I ended up filing back the case feeder body as my eyes couldn't see anything off in the motor mount position or the angle. It could very well be my printer though as it's been acting up lately. Will tune it up and try another plate to see if it's any better. Somewhat worried it may be the body that is off, not the plates.

Would love to hear your result after the printer tune.

[TylerR]

Any Ace Hardware store has Phillips head flat head machine screws, metric or SAE. But the best fit under the clutch is the 6-32 flat heads.....and they fit better than any of the metric sizes.....not to mention easier for Americans everywhere to find locally. That size head recesses just perfectly. I wouldn't change a thing.

IME, even a small hole has to be cleaned up without a bevel......IMO it's perfect the way it is....just go get a 25 cent machine screw, nyloc and nuts...

Hard to disagree with this. It was designed around a 1/2" 6-32 flat head.

[TylerR]

I am considering adding another 10-15mm to the 7mm and 308 rifle bullet dropper die bodies. GWS I believe you have a hornady rifle die? If so, what is the OAL of the die?

[TylerR]

I printed a new cluch plate and also drilled the shaft on the motor so I could thread the screw all the way in on the hex portion from both sides. I *think* that solved the problem. Mostly anyway...I'll keep playing with it to see.

Interesting. Keep us updated.
Is there any truth to the printer being out of round, or was that just an optical illusion in the pictures?

[TylerR]

Not Hornady, RCBS's fairly new tube bullet feeders. Picture below: 122 mm overall length, the internal sticks out above 8 mm, so the body is 114 mm.

Feeder on the Right, M style neck expander on the Left. Pictured is actually the .223, but the .308 is identical except for diameter of the bullet shaft.

Thanks GWS,

I actually increased the die body on the .308 and 7mm dies a bit more to handle the longer cases. Also created a dedicated 300BO die set.

[Anuccite]

Thanks GWS,

I actually increased the die body on the .308 and 7mm dies a bit more to handle the longer cases. Also created a dedicated 300BO die set.

I see you did that without changing version number..... sneaky

[thump_rrr]

I am considering adding another 10-15mm to the 7mm and 308 rifle bullet dropper die bodies. GWS I believe you have a hornady rifle die? If so, what is the OAL of the die?
I will be home in 30 minutes I will post pics of the Hornady bullet feeder dies.
I am glad that you are increasing the length.
Keep in mind that’s a .45ACP pistol die I am posting.
https://i.postimg.cc/BQy715bS/8-E73-EF7-F-EA6-B-4-C4-A-BC3-E-51667784-DE1-E.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ZC8xGd62)
https://i.postimg.cc/3xFLfs9R/9-AD6-CC2-B-EF68-48-DF-9-C0-D-3799854-A4-E80.jpg (https://postimg.cc/sM19v0kd)

[kc10kevin]

750 BF and case feeder all set. Decided to print up another feeder and the Lee APP. Base slide, 9mm Bullet Slide, Main Bracket all good. Printed up some inserts. 9mm works great! Extended one about 3mm for bullet feeding to make it a little smoother. .223 brass has me perplexed.

I did my due diligence and searched the forum here for any reference to make sure I didn't miss anything. Apologize if I missed something simple. .223 case insert fully seated does not allow for the case to clear. I must be doing something wrong, right? Please see the pics below and let me know....please be kind if I am doing something stupid!! lol

Thanks in advance!

[silahtar]

I have the 9mm, .44 and .45 Hornady Feed dies, let me know if you need any measurements...

[TylerR]

I see you did that without changing version number..... sneaky

I was waiting on the generator to match. v1.4.2 posted. :)

[TylerR]

750 BF and case feeder all set. Decided to print up another feeder and the Lee APP. Base slide, 9mm Bullet Slide, Main Bracket all good. Printed up some inserts. 9mm works great! Extended one about 3mm for bullet feeding to make it a little smoother. .223 brass has me perplexed.

I did my due diligence and searched the forum here for any reference to make sure I didn't miss anything. Apologize if I missed something simple. .223 case insert fully seated does not allow for the case to clear. I must be doing something wrong, right? Please see the pics below and let me know....please be kind if I am doing something stupid!! lol

Thanks in advance!

Looks good. The bracket is designed to have a nut between the bottom and the frame like in this picture. That should give it the correct clearance.

277979

You mentioned making a longer insert for the bullets. When I was messing around with the really short .45's lablover sent me, I realized combining the brass and bullet insert for pistol probably wasn't the best idea, so I am going to make those separate parts like they were originally.

[kc10kevin]

Looks good. The bracket is designed to have a nut between the bottom and the frame like in this picture. That should give it the correct clearance.

277979

You mentioned making a longer insert for the bullets. When was messing around with the really short .45's lablover sent me, I realized combining the brass and bullet insert for pistol probably wasn't the best idea, so I am going to make those separate parts like they were originally.

OK. Thanks! That's what I was thinking, but then the 9mm Bullet/brass insert would be too short for bullets. If it helps in making the dedicated 9mm bullet insert, I decreased the internal diameter of the insert to 9.5mm. Works really well.

Thanks again! I'll put the nut on.

[TylerR]

Well, a new part has been born. lol

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[Fil131]

I’ve been away a while, just got an email saying this thread had a new post to find that you guys have still been putting in a lot of good work. I stopped using my bullet feeder when the PETG and hex didn’t work out as I’d hoped. I’m getting used to my RL1100 so I didn’t want to have that learning curve as well as another thing to "tinker“ with at the same time.

At some point I’d like to read all of the posts I’ve missed out on and try and contribute back to this group.

Just thought I’d stop in and say hello.

[RedlegEd]

Hi Fil131, and welcome back!
First, I'd recommend you read the latest manual. I think you'll find TylerR and a lot of other very good folks have been hard at work and made some incredible advancements since you were here last. Here's a link to the latest manual. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tMJF5Je8SyFTl2sipncXTVq9bEEPiw5B/view?usp=sharing) Please read through it as it will provide many of the answers to questions you might have.
Ed

[TylerR]

I’ve been away a while, just got an email saying this thread had a new post to find that you guys have still been putting in a lot of good work. I stopped using my bullet feeder when the PETG and hex didn’t work out as I’d hoped. I’m getting used to my RL1100 so I didn’t want to have that learning curve as well as another thing to "tinker“ with at the same time.

At some point I’d like to read all of the posts I’ve missed out on and try and contribute back to this group.

Just thought I’d stop in and say hello.

Welcome back. We have been having some fun here :)

[greekman]

hey all this has been an amazing project i have had my printers humming for better than 2 weeks on this design A BIG HUGE THANK YOU TO ALL OF YOU AND THE HARD WORK YOU HAVE PUT IN !!

I had 2 370 motors and they are working well if a little slow as they are 2 and 5 rpm's to keep the torque up the next experiment is 2 555 motors one is an 80 rpm so far not impressed lots of torque near its high rpm's but when turned down to usable rpm's not much torque. I just got my 10rpm 555 motor will advise when i get it set in.

Question has there been any work on a 45/70 400 grain bullet seating die i tryed the 45cal but the bullet is to long so I was hoping someone had tackled the challenge.

thanks all for the great projects

[TylerR]

Question has there been any work on a 45/70 400 grain bullet seating die i tryed the 45cal but the bullet is to long so I was hoping someone had tackled the challenge.

thanks all for the great projects

What are the length and dia of the bullet?

[Anuccite]

Give me a little bit. I'll take a pic of my setup and see if you like it. Easier to print. Uses 1 inch square aluminum tube from big box stores.

EDIT: Here you go. Unfortunately, no way to get around support for the middle part where the tube goes through. Simple 1 inch square aluminum from HD or Lowes. Tapped with 1/4-20. Sorry for the mess...still temp setup.

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277216
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277218

I'm in the process of printing all your brackets, Can you show a pic of the completed setup from the front view? I orderd a 750 bare bones.... So printing everything till it shows

[kc10kevin]

I'm in the process of printing all your brackets, Can you show a pic of the completed setup from the front view? I orderd a 750 bare bones.... So printing everything till it shows

Sorry for the delay. Here you go.

Here is the Aluminum I used from Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-in-W-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Square-Tube/3053565

Works perfectly! Great fit. Again, the pics show just a temp setup right now. I have not even tapped the pole or feeder mounts. I did tap the main mount into the aluminum. Just slid a bolt in the pole (existing hole) under the whole setup just temporarily until I like the height and tap it. Will end up cutting off the left over aluminum.

Let me know if you have any questions.

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278059

[TylerR]

Sorry for the delay. Here you go.

Here is the Aluminum I used from Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-in-W-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Square-Tube/3053565

Works perfectly! Great fit. Again, the pics show just a temp setup right now. I have not even tapped the pole or feeder mounts. I did tap the main mount into the aluminum. Just slid a bolt in the pole (existing hole) under the whole setup just temporarily until I like the height and tap it. Will end up cutting off the left over aluminum.

Let me know if you have any questions.


Did you post the stl files for that? Do you want to add them to the contributors folder? I can see others wanting something like that.

[kc10kevin]

Did you post the stl files for that? Do you want to add them to the contributors folder? I can see others wanting something like that.

I posted the link a few pages back. I'm sure it got lost in all the posts. LOL. Here it is again.

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1z9D3iKNGhbjn1E9IvCts1KVzTXCLXD7Q

First time using (sharing) Google Drive, so let me know if have any issues accessing. Feel free to add to the folder whatever you think folks would like. Couldn't get away from supports...which we all hate.

[TylerR]

I posted the link a few pages back. I'm sure it got lost in all the posts. LOL. Here it is again.

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1z9D3iKNGhbjn1E9IvCts1KVzTXCLXD7Q

First time using (sharing) Google Drive, so let me know if have any issues accessing. Feel free to add to the folder whatever you think folks would like. Couldn't get away from supports...which we all hate.

Perfect. Supports are taboo, but sometime unavoidable.

Edited. I just realized google drive will zip it all for me. We're good.

OK its up there in contributors with attribution.

[kc10kevin]

Perfect. Supports are taboo, but sometime unavoidable.

Edited. I just realized google drive will zip it all for me. We're good.

OK its up there in contributors with attribution.

Ok....I was just about to post up the zip for you. Appreciate that, but don't need attribution or recognition...unless you want folks to contact me for support on the designs.

[TylerR]

Ok....I was just about to post up the zip for you. Appreciate that, but don't need attribution or recognition...unless you want folks to contact me for support on the designs.

No nothing like that. Just have your screen name on the file. :)
But yes if people want edits I am sending them your way. haha

[kc10kevin]

No nothing like that. Just have you screen name on the file. :)
But yes if people want edits I am sending them your way. haha

LOL...Perfect!! Always good to delegate! :-)

[Anuccite]

Sorry for the delay. Here you go.

Here is the Aluminum I used from Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-in-W-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Square-Tube/3053565

Works perfectly! Great fit. Again, the pics show just a temp setup right now. I have not even tapped the pole or feeder mounts. I did tap the main mount into the aluminum. Just slid a bolt in the pole (existing hole) under the whole setup just temporarily until I like the height and tap it. Will end up cutting off the left over aluminum.

Let me know if you have any questions.

278058
278059

Looks Great!! I appreciate you putting this together. .... I've printed all the "Dumb, need support" Pieces, Might have been just me, But a brim was necessary so the tree supports didn't fall over... and I excluded support for the BOLT holes, as it was not necessary

They came out great.... I'm hoping to grab the aluminum today

278079

[Anuccite]

BTW Tyler.... I don't know if anyone said it yet.... But I like the New "T" Logo!

[tanders]

Hey it's my electronics post mount.

I like your dual feeder mount.

[TylerR]

BTW Tyler.... I don't know if anyone said it yet.... But I like the New "T" Logo!

Thank you. Very simple, and I think it looks kind of pleasing. :)

[greekman]

MOLD DC 457-405-F
Details

Lee Double Cavity Mold produces a .457 diameter 405 grain Flat nose bullet suitable for cartridges like 45-70 Caliber Rifle.

Click here to view parts



length 25.5mm tip to tip
length 20mm to start of rounding of nose
diameter 11.9mm

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[greekman]

her is a couple pics of the mounting for the 555 motors i created a riser to accommodate for the shaft length to hex coupler and with the riser there is no mounting problem testing tomorrow

also a quick grabber for the plates using a 1" #6 screw 1 lock nut and 1 regular

wont let me upload will try later :(

[greekman]

got it pics were to big

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[RedlegEd]

Nice, and colorful too!
Ed

[yoterunner]

9mm plate done. Next up .223.

276967

Really like this. Sent a pm to you.

[XGN 0SPREY]

Has anybody ever used the dillon variable speed case feed motor upgrade kit for the bullet feeder. I just so happen to have an extra laying around and would appreciate any tips.

[CS223]

Has anybody ever used the dillon variable speed case feed motor upgrade kit for the bullet feeder. I just so happen to have an extra laying around and would appreciate any tips.

One thing to keep in mind is the Dillon wall wart is 24V. The wiring for the photo diode and proximity versions call for 12V supply. Micro switch version, like the Dillon uses doesn’t matter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[XGN 0SPREY]

i figured there would be some modifications neccesary. But I have a complete unit minus the dillon plastic case feeder bowl it just seemed like a no brainer since its already wired for a variable speed control and has a switch I could modify to control the boolit flow. I would just need to drill holes to mount the motor since non of the main bodys seem to match and then modify the shaft to reach through the collator plate. im sure theyll be a few others . just havent made it that far yet

[CS223]

i figured there would be some modifications neccesary. But I have a complete unit minus the dillon plastic case feeder bowl it just seemed like a no brainer since its already wired for a variable speed control and has a switch I could modify to control the boolit flow. I would just need to drill holes to mount the motor since non of the main bodys seem to match and then modify the shaft to reach through the collator plate. im sure theyll be a few others . just havent made it that far yet

You could print an adapter plate to go between the motor & bowl. That would exacerbate the shaft length issue tho.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[XGN 0SPREY]

the shaft is roughly 26 mm so theres room depending on how hard it is to drill through the shaft

[CS223]

the shaft is roughly 26 mm so theres room depending on how hard it is to drill through the shaft

If you go back and look at the plans, there isn’t a need to cross drill the shaft, you can use hex couplings and the plates have a female hex that mates with the coupling.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[XGN 0SPREY]

i think the print files i have must be old. i dont see allot of the files i see people talk about. or maybe theres a paid version im not aware of.

[RedlegEd]

i think the print files i have must be old. i dont see allot of the files i see people talk about. or maybe theres a paid version im not aware of.
Hi, the link to the latest files are available for download in TylerR's signature. There is no paid version, and what you see is available to everyone. The current version is bf_1.4.2 and has the manual and all files needed for the larger version of the bullet and case collator. If you want the smaller AmmoMike83 version, you'll need to find that elsewhere.
Ed

[RedlegEd]

All,
Just so you know, TylerR has some serious things going on right now in his personal life and he may be off the net for a little while. If you are waiting on an update or possibly a revision of something, please be patient until things settle down.
Thanks,
Ed

[Greg S]

I'd love to build one of these but been on the road all summer and won't end till this next winter.

[XGN 0SPREY]

ah ok. thank you kindly for getting me on the same page. i feel like i kind of have an idea of whats going on now. those hex couplers were a brilliant addition. the motor im using still isnt supported in terms of the bolt pattern. but i think i can get by simply drilling my own holes. Not sure how precise my shaft alignment will be but ill manage. Also im kind of curious if the main body for the version were discussing has different dimensions than what i already have. guess ill just print a few layers and see.

[RedlegEd]

I'd love to build one of these but been on the road all summer and won't end till this next winter.
Hi Greg,
Understand about being tied up and not able to get to do other things. The nice thing is once you get finished and can get started on this, all the wrinkles should have been ironed out (it's pretty close to that now.) Just keep an eye on the thread and keep downloading the latest version so you have it handy when you are ready to get started.
Ed

[Anuccite]

ah ok. thank you kindly for getting me on the same page. i feel like i kind of have an idea of whats going on now. those hex couplers were a brilliant addition. the motor im using still isnt supported in terms of the bolt pattern. but i think i can get by simply drilling my own holes. Not sure how precise my shaft alignment will be but ill manage. Also im kind of curious if the main body for the version were discussing has different dimensions than what i already have. guess ill just print a few layers and see.

The Price on this motor is very reasonable.... and works very well, even better now that the base is updated....

This uses the M634JS Base

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YBXMTWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[yoterunner]

[/QUOTE] The clutch pieces were modified, made taller by Tyler to account for this....[/QUOTE]

I know guys were working on a "handle/puller" for the collator plates. I was thinking last night, for the taller plates, could there just be a XTRA Tall Clutch piece that extends past the tallest plate enough to get a good grasp on. For the short case plates, seems like the clutch itself is easy to get a hold of. Just an idea I had....

[CS223]

The Price on this motor is very reasonable.... and works very well, even better now that the base is updated....

This uses the M634JS Base

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YBXMTWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you sign up for emails on Zoro.com, they will occasionally send out 20% off coupons & anything over $49 is free shipping. The motor linked from the instruction manual

https://www.zoro.com/dayton-dc-gearmotor-nameplate-rpm-12-130a-52je51/i/G6617829/

can be had for $54 with a coupon code. I can tell you that it is a well built beast of a motor, not chicom hobby grade.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RedlegEd]

The clutch pieces were modified, made taller by Tyler to account for this....
I know guys were working on a "handle/puller" for the collator plates. I was thinking last night, for the taller plates, could there just be a XTRA Tall Clutch piece that extends past the tallest plate enough to get a good grasp on. For the short case plates, seems like the clutch itself is easy to get a hold of. Just an idea I had....

Hi,
I'm sure you've seen GWS and TylerR reference my clutch handle. Here's what I use, which is basically a very tall top clutch plate that I cover the center with a "button."
Ed

278421 278422 278423

[yoterunner]

Hi,
I'm sure you've seen GWS and TylerR reference my clutch handle. Here's what I use, which is basically a very tall top clutch plate that I cover the center with a "button."
Ed

278421 278422 278423

Ed, I do like that. So this is just being used for the second part along with the center clutch piece and not a separate piece. Is this in the latest contributors files yet?
And does it just fit the 6-32 nut?

Thanks,

Jason

[RedlegEd]

Ed, I do like that. So this is just being used for the second part along with the center clutch piece and not a separate piece. Is this in the latest contributors files yet?
And does it just fit the 6-32 nut?

Thanks,

Jason
Hi Jason,
Yes, it just replaces the flat upper clutch retainer ring. I wanted it to still use the 6-32 - 1/2" screws & nuts, but it also works with an M4x12mm screw and nut. The "button" is just a separate flat piece that fills the center space. Totally unnecessary, but adds a nice touch. I can add them to the contributor's files. The center clutch hub remains the same, it's just the height of the top ring that changes. I can post a few different heights that should fit most of the stock plates. The button is just friction fit, and is easily popped out from the bottom.
Ed

[greekman]

if anyone is interested in my handle let me know happy to share

[yoterunner]

Hi Jason,
Yes, it just replaces the flat upper clutch retainer ring. I wanted it to still use the 6-32 - 1/2" screws & nuts, but it also works with an M4x12mm screw and nut. The "button" is just a separate flat piece that fills the center space. Totally unnecessary, but adds a nice touch. I can add them to the contributor's files. The center clutch hub remains the same, it's just the height of the top ring that changes. I can post a few different heights that should fit most of the stock plates. The button is just friction fit, and is easily popped out from the bottom.
Ed

Thanks Ed, yes I will be looking forward to using this for my taller plates.

[RedlegEd]

Thanks Ed, yes I will be looking forward to using this for my taller plates.
Hi Jason,
Ok, I uploaded the .stls to the Shared Documents folder.

[Edit] the files have been moved to the "Contributors" folder in TylerR's "Download" link.

Ed

[yoterunner]

Hi Jason,
Ok, I uploaded the .stls to the Shared Documents folder. Here's the link:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1diEiZJ5unY1iPOvCzgQgunRpQb4ogqB-?usp=sharing

Ed

Thanks again Ed.

[TylerR]

Hi Jason,
Ok, I uploaded the .stls to the Shared Documents folder. Here's the link:
Ed

Hi Ed,

First off thank you for holding the fort down here.
I moved your files to the contributors folder for anyone wanting to use them going forward.

[wrinkles]

ah ok. thank you kindly for getting me on the same page. i feel like i kind of have an idea of whats going on now. those hex couplers were a brilliant addition. the motor im using still isnt supported in terms of the bolt pattern. but i think i can get by simply drilling my own holes. Not sure how precise my shaft alignment will be but ill manage. Also im kind of curious if the main body for the version were discussing has different dimensions than what i already have. guess ill just print a few layers and see.

I had a spare motor that wasn't supported. What I ended up doing was using a .09 kydex plate to match the holes and then attach the motor to the kydex. Sort of a diy adapter plate. Been working great.

[yoterunner]

I had a spare motor that wasn't supported. What I ended up doing was using a .09 kydex plate to match the holes and then attach the motor to the kydex. Sort of a diy adapter plate. Been working great.

Good job. I have a couple of "other" motors too, but decided for now to just buy a couple of the supported ones. May need to try your method in the future for these. Pics would probably help someone out in the future.

[TylerR]

MOLD DC 457-405-F
Details

Lee Double Cavity Mold produces a .457 diameter 405 grain Flat nose bullet suitable for cartridges like 45-70 Caliber Rifle.

Click here to view parts



length 25.5mm tip to tip
length 20mm to start of rounding of nose
diameter 11.9mm


Have you tried the latest version of the .44 mag die? I believe it will probably work.

[TylerR]

I just posted a 45-70 die set. It is basically the 45 with longer body for the longer case length.

[yoterunner]

I had a question about wiring the proximity sensor with the speed controller. I do want to keep the speed set constant, so want a separate switch for power on/off. I see the wiring diagrams, but don't see the proximity diagram with the speed controller involved. I read about the importance of the relay and ordered those too. Anybody give me pointers on this? I thought that GWS had done this, but couldn't find the specifics or diagram. Thanks.

Jason

[TylerR]

I had a question about wiring the proximity sensor with the speed controller. I do want to keep the speed set constant, so want a separate switch for power on/off. I see the wiring diagrams, but don't see the proximity diagram with the speed controller involved. I read about the importance of the relay and ordered those too. Anybody give me pointers on this? I thought that GWS had done this, but couldn't find the specifics or diagram. Thanks.

Jason

Use the wiring diagram for the proximity sensor and just place the switch between the incoming 12 volt power and everything else. All of the rest of the diagram stays the same. I may redo that diagram to include a separate switch.

Here you go. This would be a 3 wire led rocker switch.
278682

[yoterunner]

Printed a second base now, and having same issue with bullet and brass plates getting stuck on the upper Left and lower Right areas like a couple other guys have reported also. With some slight sanding I've got them to spin freely, but tonight I noticed another issue with the base(s) that may be related and looking for feedback on. I printed a slide plate and noticed there is a gap (out of square) on each of the base(s). I took pictures of both of them, with the same slide plate inserted on each of them. Pretty much the same gap on each of them. Feedback would be welcome & appreciated Do you think my printer is not printing these correctly? I think they will work once I modify slightly, but not perfectly done.

Here's the pics.278681278683

[yoterunner]

User the wiring diagram for the proximity sensor and just place the switch between the incoming 12 volt power and everything else. All of the rest of the diagram stays the same. I may redo that diagram to include a separate switch.

Here you go. This would be a 3 wire led rocker switch.
278682

Much appreciated. Electronics not my strong suit, but I muddle through it.

Jason

[TylerR]

Printed a second base now, and having same issue with bullet and brass plates getting stuck on the upper Left and lower Right areas like a couple other guys have reported also. With some slight sanding I've got them to spin freely, but tonight I noticed another issue with the base(s) that may be related and looking for feedback on. I printed a slide plate and noticed there is a gap (out of square) on each of the base(s). I took pictures of both of them, with the same slide plate inserted on each of them. Pretty much the same gap on each of them. Feedback would be welcome & appreciated Do you think my printer is not printing these correctly? I think they will work once I modify slightly, but not perfectly done.


I am not really sure what to say. The being out of square/round is definitely not built in to the design. So that really only leaves the printer. I know there were a lot of suggestions on how to calibrate it when this came up a few pages ago.

[yoterunner]

I am not really sure what to say. The being out of square/round is definitely not built in to the design. So that really only leaves the printer. I know there were a lot of suggestions on how to calibrate it when this came up a few pages ago.

I'll have to check on that (calibrating). My prints have all been spot on except these bases. Not sure????

[TylerR]

I'll have to check on that (calibrating). My prints have all been spot on except these bases. Not sure????

The only other variable would be the slicer. The slightly out of round is one thing, but the out of square on the slot for the slide plates doesn't really make any sense. It is definitely not part of the original 3d cad or stl file.

[RedlegEd]

Printed a second base now, and having same issue with bullet and brass plates getting stuck on the upper Left and lower Right areas like a couple other guys have reported also. With some slight sanding I've got them to spin freely, but tonight I noticed another issue with the base(s) that may be related and looking for feedback on. I printed a slide plate and noticed there is a gap (out of square) on each of the base(s). I took pictures of both of them, with the same slide plate inserted on each of them. Pretty much the same gap on each of them. Feedback would be welcome & appreciated Do you think my printer is not printing these correctly? I think they will work once I modify slightly, but not perfectly done.

Here's the pics.278681278683
Hi Jason,
You said that's the same plate, so could it be your plate is slightly out of square and not the bases? I'd print another slide plate type and check, and/or use a square to verify the base you have is printed true. If you get the same gap using a different plate, then it's probably the base and might be a calibration problem. I'm using the exact same slide and base, and mine fit true.
Ed

[Titansfan2104]

Has anyone tried something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXNZHCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_E06YTXYKXMY1ZSZSY8H0?_enco ding=UTF8&psc=1

And replaced the start switch with the prox or microswitch while using the power switch we are using on the incoming power to the module?

[SuperMoose]

I'm back with more silly questions.

Does anyone have pictures of the entire set up (even if sectioned off like the collator w/ electronic box, spring to drop tube, etc)? My speed controller arrived today but it won't fit in the small electronic box I printed (so I'm about to start printing the large one). Sometimes visuals help me more than anything.

[TylerR]

I'm back with more silly questions.

Does anyone have pictures of the entire set up (even if sectioned off like the collator w/ electronic box, spring to drop tube, etc)? My speed controller arrived today but it won't fit in the small electronic box I printed (so I'm about to start printing the large one). Sometimes visuals help me more than anything.

The download itself has an images folder that has basically what you are looking for.

[SuperMoose]

The download itself has an images folder that has basically what you are looking for.

Ah ha!

Thank you Tyler!

ETA: One other question. On the switch drop tubes, how difficult would it be to modify the STL to put the distance between the openings on the side (for where the screw go) to 9mm center to center? That's what mine measure.

[TylerR]

Ah ha!

Thank you Tyler!

ETA: One other question. On the switch drop tubes, how difficult would it be to modify the STL to put the distance between the openings on the side (for where the screw go) to 9mm center to center? That's what mine measure.

Those were provided by Andar. I do not have the source files for them.

[CS223]

Has anyone tried something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXNZHCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_E06YTXYKXMY1ZSZSY8H0?_enco ding=UTF8&psc=1

And replaced the start switch with the prox or microswitch while using the power switch we are using on the incoming power to the module?

I’ve used that PWM speed control on my annealing machine, I have a spare that I planned on testing on the bullet feeder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Anuccite]

I am experimenting with "pause at level" in cura.....

This will be my "merica" case feeder when it's complete.....

I was worried the change over was going to mess with something..... But it went flawless!

278772

[RedlegEd]

I am experimenting with "pause at level" in cura.....

This will be my "merica" case feeder when it's complete.....

I was worried the change over was going to mess with something..... But it went flawless!

278772

Hi,
You can also use "Filament Change" script in the same Post Processing Scripts extension, and it works very well. I think the main difference is the Filament Change script sends commands to the printer to pause, then retract the filament, and signal you to feed in the new filament. It's what I used to add the gold cannons to my hub button.
Ed

278782

[TylerR]

Hi,
You can also use "Filament Change" script in the same Post Processing Scripts extension, and it works very well. I think the main difference is the Filament Change script sends commands to the printer to pause, then retract the filament, and signal you to feed in the new filament. It's what I used to add the gold cannons to my hub button.
Ed


I do love those buttons Ed. really nice touch.

[Anuccite]

Hi,
You can also use "Filament Change" script in the same Post Processing Scripts extension, and it works very well. I think the main difference is the Filament Change script sends commands to the printer to pause, then retract the filament, and signal you to feed in the new filament. It's what I used to add the gold cannons to my hub button.
Ed

278782

Actually, I think that is the option I picked.....

Final Product

278828

[RedlegEd]

Actually, I think that is the option I picked.....

Final Product

278828
Beautiful!!! That really came out nice...great job!
Ed

[greekman]

Awesome Tyler off to the 3d printer will report back :)

[TylerR]

Actually, I think that is the option I picked.....

Final Product


That is a work of art.

[yoterunner]

Actually, I think that is the option I picked.....

Final Product

278828

Very great turnout, I can see that being handy in a lot of prints.

[yoterunner]

Use the wiring diagram for the proximity sensor and just place the switch between the incoming 12 volt power and everything else. All of the rest of the diagram stays the same. I may redo that diagram to include a separate switch.

Here you go. This would be a 3 wire led rocker switch.
278682

I hate asking a question I know has been talked about, but for the life of me, I cannot find where this was discussed. I think there has been discussion about the significance of the size of the wire (thin/thick) in the wiring diagrams. Are the thin wires feeders off of the main wire?? I couldn't find that discussion and want to make sure of getting wired correctly. Any additional insight would be appreciated.

[TylerR]

I hate asking a question I know has been talked about, but for the life of me, I cannot find where this was discussed. I think there has been discussion about the significance of the size of the wire (thin/thick) in the wiring diagrams. Are the thin wires feeders off of the main wire?? I couldn't find that discussion and want to make sure of getting wired correctly. Any additional insight would be appreciated.

The thinner lines in the diagram would be fine with 24 gauge wire. 18-20 gauge is a good choice for the thicker ones. If you were to describe the diagram in simple terms. Everything can be grounded directly to the incoming 12 volt negative. The relay and the motor are two exceptions. The relay ground in comes from the proximity sensor signal wire. The motor ground comes from the speed controller. Then just follow the flow of the red positive wires and you should be good to go.

[yoterunner]

Nice design of the handle GWS, I do like that the plate closes everything off. Couple of good options for folks to choose from.

[TylerR]

Not as flashy as RedlegEd's center piece, but I promised someone who asked for the .stl that I was upgrading my plate handle to be more versatile and less plate specific.....and better all around.

I pleased myself at least.......here's some pictures and a video to show what I have done. I don't have a clue how to add it to the database without sending it to Tyler first, but give it a see....

Sorry for the miss-centered footage and the challenged hand dexterity....I've deteriorated a bit since youth...;) But I think it gets the method across. Notice the last shots where the tightness was tweaked....it only required turning the screwdriver at the bottom, since the square nuts don't move and the top Nyloc only turns in place as long as I keep the socket away.....which is the point. I used 6-32 hardware. Machine screws 1-1/8" long would be better than my 1-1/4", but that's what I have and it's works for me.

Better than my original, and works equally well with no additional parts for any plate thickness. Does not overlap the plate, and the bigger finger pull helps.

The .stl is available if anyone wants it.

Looks great GWS. I still have yet to come up with my own thing, so between you and Ed people have some good options to choose from now.

[yoterunner]

Thanks Tyler, then I take it the positive wire from the sensor goes to the positive IN on the relay? Looks like small red (+) wire gets lost in the diagram on the big red (+) wire running from switch to Relay out +. Is that right?

Sorry to have to have it spelled out so much!

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler, then I take it the positive wire from the sensor goes to the positive IN on the relay? Looks like small red (+) wire gets lost in the diagram on the big red (+) wire running from switch to Relay out +. Is that right?

Sorry to have to have it spelled out so much!

No. And I don't claim to be the best at creating wiring diagrams. Let me try to break it down.

From the 12 volt power source:
-Negative(ground) will go to the switch negative, sensor negative (blue wire), and speed controller negative-in.
-Positive (red) wire will go to the switch positive (outside pin) and that's it.

From the switch:
-Positive out (middle pin) will go to the relay-in positive, relay-out positive, and proximity sensor-in positive (brown wire).

From the proximity sensor:
Sensor wire out (S- black wire) will go to the relay negative-in.

From the relay:
-Negative-out will go to the speed controller positive-in. (This is what confuses people, because its not really a negative current flowing out. It is just a switch that connects positive from the 12 volt source to positive of the speed controller).

From the speed controller.
-Both negative and positive wires connect to the motor. Switching these two wires at the motor will control the direction it turns, CW or CCW

[TylerR]

For anyone who wants to understand more about how relays work, this is a decent video. Think of a relay just as a simple switch, but the way that switch gets turned on or off is by applying a low current power source. This way a high load current can be turned on or off using a low current source. The video talks about mechanical relays, but of course we are using a solid state relay. Same concept though.

https://youtu.be/1_YfuH_AcxQ

[yoterunner]

Thats perfect Tyler. I appreciate you writing it all out. I had a feeling some of those positives were feeders. I am a woodworker trying to learn some of this other "trades" stuff, so the more plain, the better.

[GWS]

Question to Anuccite and Ed on color changing:

So I understand the pause and change to a point. Retracting too. But on a normal print beginning, after changing to a new roll, there is a transition that the initial purge line and skirt take care of unless the part is really small. Meaning, for example changing from white to red, you get a little pink for a bit.....

So in the case of changing color midstream, there is no purge line nor skirt......so do you just hand push the filament until the color is pure?....then press continue? Or am I missing something?

[Anuccite]

Question to Anuccite and Ed on color changing:

So I understand the pause and change to a point. Retracting too. But on a normal print beginning, after changing to a new roll, there is a transition that the initial purge line and skirt take care of unless the part is really small. Meaning, for example changing from white to red, you get a little pink for a bit.....

So in the case of changing color midstream, there is no purge line nor skirt......so do you just hand push the filament until the color is pure?....then press continue? Or am I missing something?

My change color script, actually purged WAY more than necessary..... there was no color bleed...

after the retraction, I pulled the filament the rest of the way out.... replaced it like I always do, till it was coming out with the new color.... Then I hit the continue button.... and it purged even more... next color, I just put the new color in, and got it to nozzle, and let the auto purge do it's thing

EDIT: it moves the head away from product to do the purge as well

[RedlegEd]

Question to Anuccite and Ed on color changing:

So I understand the pause and change to a point. Retracting too. But on a normal print beginning, after changing to a new roll, there is a transition that the initial purge line and skirt take care of unless the part is really small. Meaning, for example changing from white to red, you get a little pink for a bit.....

So in the case of changing color midstream, there is no purge line nor skirt......so do you just hand push the filament until the color is pure?....then press continue? Or am I missing something?
Hi GWS,
I'm sure there is a little bleed over, but it's insignificant. Even with the small buttons, I really couldn't tell if there was color bleed. If you are concerned, you can certainly push the new filament by hand to purge. My advice would be try it on something smaller using relatively distinct/different colors and see if you have an acceptable result. If nothing else, it's a cool tool to have in your box. :)
Ed

[GWS]

My change color script, actually purged WAY more than necessary..... there was no color bleed...

after the retraction, I pulled the filament the rest of the way out.... replaced it like I always do, till it was coming out with the new color.... Then I hit the continue button.... and it purged even more... next color, I just put the new color in, and got it to nozzle, and let the auto purge do it's thing

EDIT: it moves the head away from product to do the purge as well

Autopurge? In the script, right? Can you list the commands in the script?.....I'm using another slicer so would have to create my own.

[Anuccite]

Autopurge? In the script, right? Can you list the commands in the script?.....I'm using another slicer so would have to create my own.

It's a post process script.... I'm not sure how to get you the commands it's actually using (as they don't list them)

[stanford]

Autopurge? In the script, right? Can you list the commands in the script?.....I'm using another slicer so would have to create my own.

If you guys were doing the Marlin updates manually you would have this option on your screen. You would pause the printer then replace filament, that's where you can purge until the color you want comes out. Once that is completed you can then resume the print.

I recently purchased and Ender 5 Pro and kept everything stock, well I added the glass bed that comes with it and mounted a bltouch. Then I did away with the stock firmware and upgraded to all the latest Marlin updates. Once updated I saw that option to pause and replace the filament, had to do it once and it works pretty good. Creality disables too many of the advanced features and they are very far behind in updates.

[TylerR]

If you guys were doing the Marlin updates manually you would have this option on your screen. You would pause the printer then replace filament, that's where you can purge until the color you want comes out. Once that is completed you can then resume the print.

I recently purchased and Ender 5 Pro and kept everything stock, well I added the glass bed that comes with it and mounted a bltouch. Then I did away with the stock firmware and upgraded to all the latest Marlin updates. Once updated I saw that option to pause and replace the filament, had to do it once and it works pretty good. Creality disables too many of the advanced features and they are very far behind in updates.

I have a Ender 5 on stock firmware from about a year ago. I have the option to change filament mid print. I have never used it for color changes, but I have used it to replace a roll that was running out. Has always worked great for me.

[GWS]

If you guys were doing the Marlin updates manually you would have this option on your screen. You would pause the printer then replace filament, that's where you can purge until the color you want comes out. Once that is completed you can then resume the print.

I recently purchased and Ender 5 Pro and kept everything stock, well I added the glass bed that comes with it and mounted a bltouch. Then I did away with the stock firmware and upgraded to all the latest Marlin updates. Once updated I saw that option to pause and replace the filament, had to do it once and it works pretty good. Creality disables too many of the advanced features and they are very far behind in updates.

I use Th3D's EZABL Pro bed leveler on my CR10 V2 and so am using their Marlin-based firmware. I'll have to see if there is an update. I love the bed leveler, and I've seen an option to pause, but never equated that to changing filament colors midstream, only to do as Tyler just posted....replenishment. Guess I'll post a question or two there.

However, if their firmware doesn't have the autopurge as part of the pause, I love the autoleveler enough to purge by hand. Pause is enough if it comes to that.

Anuther "however"..... I have yet to find an itch strong enough to change colors in a print, but I do like having the option if I ever want it. ;)

[Titansfan2104]

All the videos that were linked in the user manual are gone ��

[TylerR]

All the videos that were linked in the user manual are gone ��

They have been moved. Grab the latest version.