Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

Maybe replacing the spring hook with a hole that people can put a screw into? Might be more sturdy than a piece of plastic. I saw a design on Thingiverse like that.

That is what I used to have :)
The spring hook allows for much quicker caliber change, and is very sturdy. I printed a few and tried to break it on purpose just to see.

[o416]

That is what I used to have :)
The spring hook allows for much quicker caliber change, and is very sturdy. I printed a few and tried to break it on purpose just to see.

Cool! I am going to see how this version with supports comes out. If it sucks, I will have to figure out why mines keeps breaking on the bed.

Why a raft though?

[TylerR]

Cool! I am going to see how this version with supports comes out. If it sucks, I will have to figure out why mines keeps breaking on the bed.

Why a raft though?

The raft gives that tiny pin something to stick to for the first few layers. There is no good reason why it the pin is not connecting to the main body for you, Has anyone else tried printing one of these yet? They turn out beautifully for me.

[o416]

The raft gives that tiny pin something to stick to for the first few layers. There is no good reason why it the pin is not connecting to the main body for you, Has anyone else tried printing one of these yet? They turn out beautifully for me.

Maybe my X gantry isn't as level as I think it is. Will measure when this print is done. Perhaps the nozzle is hitting it too hard?

[o416]

Part came out perfect with supports :) They just broke right off and the slides are smooth like butter.

Crisis averted lol

[lablover]

Part came out perfect with supports :) They just broke right off and the slides are smooth like butter.

Crisis averted lol

I can’t for the life of me figure what part you guys are talking about. May have to re read? I was going to try and print it and see what happens.

Figured it out. App slides

[GWS]

I can’t for the life of me figure what part you guys are talking about. May have to re read? I was going to try and print it and see what happens.

Figured it out. App slides


Yup, but no pictures! So I also find it hard to tell what exactly was o46's breakage problem and how it was fixed.....sorry I'm....slow...

[lablover]

Yup, but no pictures! So I also find it hard to tell what exactly was o46's breakage problem and how it was fixed.....sorry I'm....slow...

Agreed.

[Andar]

I am having a problem printing the APP bullets slides. I tried the raft, brim and other combos, but the spring pin keeps breaking off the bed.

I don't know what to do :/

Check your "Raft Air Gap". If you're using Cura, you need to open your settings and enable the option, as it's hidden by default. Lower the amount and try out a few things. Other slicers have a similar but different name for it.
What that setting does, is make a gap between the raft and the actual part so the raft can be removed. Too little and it sticks too much, not enough and you get what I'm assuming is happening to you.

I you can also set the same gap for support pieces and I think it's called "Support Z Gap"

[Andar]

for instance that #3-#4 adapter is 14.56mm dia according to CAD, but my printed version is closer to 14.2mm. Curious what your printed version is?

You should print out a calibration cube and double check what actually happens. Your X and Y axis should be bang on 20mm for example, but your Z axis should be slightly shorter based on your layer height and that is due to the first layer squish to improve bed adhesion.

Also, test your extruder is actually outputting the correct amount of filament. Disconnect your bowden tube from your heat block, cut off the filament as close to the tube as you can and then tell your printer to extrude 100mm. Measure what comes out and then verify that it's actually 100mm. Your E-Stepper calibration could be off. There's a bunch of math to get the correct number, so follow guides online for that and how to do it for your specific printer. I doubt that it will be off by a lot, because that would cause a lot of printing issues, but it could be off by just enough to shrink the model a bit.

[TylerR]

Agreed.

He is having trouble with the part in the red circle. o416 maybe you should add this pic to the manual to demonstrate the need for the raft.

273166

[GWS]

Thanks for the info Andar!....still a beginner and never heard about any of that.....will put post 2770 and 2771 in my reference group in case I have issues.

[lablover]

He is having trouble with the part in the red circle.

273166

Perfectly clear now. Thanks Tyler. I’ll try and get one on the printer today and see how it turns out.

[TylerR]

You should print out a calibration cube and double check what actually happens. Your X and Y axis should be bang on 20mm for example, but your Z axis should be slightly shorter based on your layer height and that is due to the first layer squish to improve bed adhesion.

Also, test your extruder is actually outputting the correct amount of filament. Disconnect your bowden tube from your heat block, cut off the filament as close to the tube as you can and then tell your printer to extrude 100mm. Measure what comes out and then verify that it's actually 100mm. Your E-Stepper calibration could be off. There's a bunch of math to get the correct number, so follow guides online for that and how to do it for your specific printer. I doubt that it will be off by a lot, because that would cause a lot of printing issues, but it could be off by just enough to shrink the model a bit.

Thank you, I will definitely take a look at that when I get a chance.

[lablover]

He is having trouble with the part in the red circle. o416 maybe you should add this pic to the manual to demonstrate the need for the raft.

273166

so you're printing that part with a raft and supports? in then orientation that's shown in the picture? I want to recreate what you guys are doing. I'm curious to try it without a raft or supports

[Andar]

He is having trouble with the part in the red circle. o416 maybe you should add this pic to the manual to demonstrate the need for the raft.

273166

A 4mm brim or so should also work depending on your bed, more if it's not sticky enough, rafts make things ugly and waste a lot. I only use them when I need to avoid "elephants foot" or the sagging bulge on the first few layers.
They look ugly because of the air gap. It doesn't get the nice smooth adhesion between each line like the bottom of your prints do on the bed.

[TylerR]

so you're printing that part with a raft and supports? in then orientation that's shown in the picture? I want to recreate what you guys are doing. I'm curious to try it without a raft or supports

Just raft. No supports. The issue is that the start of that pin is a 3mm dot on the print bed. It tends to not want to stay put, thus the raft to help it along.

[Andar]

so you're printing that part with a raft and supports? in then orientation that's shown in the picture? I want to recreate what you guys are doing. I'm curious to try it without a raft or supports

Try it with a small brim and no supports, it shouldn't need any. If you've got a lot of faith in your bed, try without a brim but I'd be using one myself.

[lablover]

Yea, I think a brim will work nicely. I'm giving it a go now. we shall see soon enough.

[TylerR]

A 4mm brim or so should also work depending on your bed, more if it's not sticky enough, rafts make things ugly and waste a lot. I only use them when I need to avoid "elephants foot" or the sagging bulge on the first few layers.
They look ugly because of the air gap. It doesn't get the nice smooth adhesion between each line like the bottom of your prints do on the bed.

As you know, I only use supports and rafts when I absolutely have no choice. I changed my raft settings in cura so it is very minimal and not much waste.

273167

[lablover]

As you know, I only use supports and rafts when I absolutely have no choice. I changed my raft settings in cura so it is very minimal and not much waste.

273167

Ive been using Prusa slicer now that Ive become more familiar with it. It smokes Cura big time! My prints have improved a bunch since the change. I'm already several layers in that print and see no reason why the post won't come out great. Kind of a long print for a small item but .12 does that.

[TylerR]

Ive been using Prusa now that Ive become more familiar with it. It smokes Cura big time! My prints have improved a bunch since the change. I'm already several layers in that print and see no reason why the post won't come out great. Kind of a long print for a small item but .12 does that.

You know how us old guys hate change. :)
Glad to hear it's coming out. That little pin is a pain in the you know what, but it makes caliber changes much quicker compared to a screw.

[lablover]

You know how us old guys hate change. :)
Glad to hear it's coming out. That little pin is a pain in the you know what, but it makes caliber changes much quicker compared to a screw.

Trust me I know! However the change was pretty painless.

Here is a video of the print. Pin seems fine so far

https://youtu.be/w2VAGWoneQU

[TylerR]

Trust me I know! However the change was pretty painless.

Here is a video of the print. Pin seems fine so far

Looks great! You will be surprised how sturdy that pin actually is when it is printed correctly. If you do get a little elephants foot at the base of the pin, just sand that down to make putting the spring on easier.
You can see in my APP video how fast the changeover is.

[lablover]

Looks great! You will be surprised how sturdy that pin actually is when it is printed correctly. If you do get a little elephants foot at the base of the pin, just sand that down to make putting the spring on easier.
You can see in my APP video how fast the changeover is.
Elephants foot no longer a issue with Prusa Slicer. Has a anti elephant foot setting and works awesome. Seems to have to adjust for different filaments. Good to be printing again, bee awhile. Back to work after surgery and too many projects going on.

Looking forward to proximity switch updates. I think it will be the cleanest wire wise install

[o416]

I printed it on its side with the hook on the top and with supports everywhere.

The supports came right off and the part looks great :)

[TylerR]

Elephants foot no longer a issue with Prusa Slicer. Has a anti elephant foot setting and works awesome. Seems to have to adjust for different filaments. Good to be printing again, bee awhile. Back to work after surgery and too many projects going on.

Looking forward to proximity switch updates. I think it will be the cleanest wire wise install

GWS proximity solution is posted. It will be awhile before mine comes out because I am now waiting on parts. Delivery says 12/23-12/28.

Once I get a proof of concept finished I will post it so you all can see where I am going with it.

[lablover]

I printed it on its side with the hook on the top and with supports everywhere.

The supports came right off and the part looks great :)

Might have to try that way too. The different layout could also help the strength of the pin. Print direction on pins for example can be huge on strength.

[Rage 01]

I just wish these proximity sensors were a little smaller. The one I settled on is shorter then the one GWS used, but much wider in diameter. it is 30mm dia. Detection range of 15mm.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081NNN98M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did you see this one? It's 4mm wide.
https://www.amazon.ca/Twidec-Inductive-Proximity-Detecting-LJ12A3-4-Z/dp/B07P2KTHK8/ref=asc_df_B07P2KTHK8/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335587147417&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6592180190731711566&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001311&hvtargid=pla-872860510297&psc=1

[TylerR]

Did you see this one? It's 4mm wide.
https://www.amazon.ca/Twidec-Inductive-Proximity-Detecting-LJ12A3-4-Z/dp/B07P2KTHK8/ref=asc_df_B07P2KTHK8/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335587147417&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6592180190731711566&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001311&hvtargid=pla-872860510297&psc=1


The body is 12mm dia, it only has a detection range of 4mm, and thats for iron. Detection for a .223 bullet is probably around 1mm. Even the one GWS is using which has an 8mm detection range, only has about 3mm range for a .223 bullet. That is why I am going with a 18mm dia sensor rated to 14mm range. I am hoping to get at least around 5mm on a .223 bullet.

[Rage 01]

He is having trouble with the part in the red circle. o416 maybe you should add this pic to the manual to demonstrate the need for the raft.

273166

If that were me I would not use a raft. Trying to get the raft off you may end up breaking it off anyways. A brim is the way to go.
Where is it breaking off at? On the bed? Half way in the middle?. You could also try and turn your nozzle temp up a little as well say 5 or so. That will help bond the PLA a bit better. I have printed pieces that were 3mm round anfd10mm tall with a brim and did not have a any issues.
Remember not all filament uses the same temps to print. Some times even same brand of filament but different color or batch will require a different temp.

[TylerR]

If that were me I would not use a raft. Trying to get the raft off you may end up breaking it off anyways. A brim is the way to go.
Where is it breaking off at? On the bed? Half way in the middle?. You could also try and turn your nozzle temp up a little as well say 5 or so. That will help bond the PLA a bit better. I have printed pieces that were 3mm round anfd10mm tall with a brim and did not have a any issues.
Remember not all filament uses the same temps to print. Some times even same brand of filament but different color or batch will require a different temp.

I can only speak for my own experience, and a raft worked excellent for me and came off the part no problem. That said, whatever solution works for people is all that matters. The main point in the manual is to identify it as a potentially tricky part to print, and make some suggestions how to get a good result.

[TylerR]

How's that print coming lablover?

[TylerR]

For you guys with the accurate printers, how is the drop tube fit to the DAA die with the most recent size change? Still loose or just right? Not that you should ever need another DAA die after this project. Hahahahaha

[lablover]

How's that print coming lablover?

Came out absolutely perfect! You were right, that little stump is pretty strong. I’ll post aa pic shortly. Used a brim in this case

Btw, what’s a DAA die. Lol
273184

[Andar]

For you guys with the accurate printers, how is the drop tube fit to the DAA die with the most recent size change? Still loose or just right? Not that you should ever need another DAA die after this project. Hahahahaha

Sorry, I can't test that. I don't have their die otherwise I would. I actually printed off this one here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4257070) and used a 1/2 ID 5/8 OD vinyl tube which fit in the die snug, then a little loose but useable fit for the drop tube. I also used the same tube for the case feeder side, as with a tiny spacer made it fit the stock Dillon XL650 feed system.
As far as I can tell (Haven't loaded yet, just tested) it works fine and nothing binds, sticks or jams.

[TylerR]

v1.2.5 Has been uploaded.

- Added GWS proximity sensor files.
- Some minor tolerance changes to various parts to improve fit across all printers.
- User Manual v1.0 added. Work in progress and feedback welcome. Huge thank you to o416!

[Andar]

Here's what mine looks like so far. Just need to get out and buy the bolts for the mount, hide the wiring a bit then they're good to go!
273193

[o416]

For you guys with the accurate printers, how is the drop tube fit to the DAA die with the most recent size change? Still loose or just right? Not that you should ever need another DAA die after this project. Hahahahaha

Still a little loose for me. I can pop it off with my pinky, but I doubt that will affect operation.

[o416]

Tyler has uploaded the manual we collaborated on so please have a look :)

However, we want everyone's feedback on this, so we have setup a Google Sheet here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit#gid=0

Just add whatever you think needs should be there and we will try our best to add it to future manual versions :)

[TylerR]

Tyler has uploaded the manual we collaborated on so please have a look :)

However, we want everyone's feedback on this, so we have setup a Google Sheet here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit#gid=0

Just add whatever you think needs should be there and we will try our best to add it to future manual versions :)

Thank you for all your hard work on this.

[lablover]

v1.2.5 Has been uploaded.

- Added GWS proximity sensor files.
- Some minor tolerance changes to various parts to improve fit across all printers.
- User Manual v1.0 added. Work in progress and feedback welcome. Huge thank you to o416!

Just had a quick peek at the manual! WOW!!!! Epic work 0416...I can’t wait to read it in detail. Absolutely beautiful

[o416]

Thank you for all your hard work on this.

It has been my pleasure Tyler. I don't feel like such a mooch now haha

[o416]

Just had a quick peek at the manual! WOW!!!! Epic work 0416...I can’t wait to read it in detail. Absolutely beautiful

Thanks lablover! It was a labor of love and please give your feedback :)

[Andar]

Awesome work! Already reading and adding suggestions.

[lablover]

Just a thought and call me paranoid but do we really want to include the DAA name anyplace in that document. We all know how they can get...aka AmmoMike. Again, I’m overly paranoid being a former Marine.

[o416]

Just a thought and call me paranoid but do we really want to include the DAA name anyplace in that document. We all know how they can get...aka AmmoMike. Again, I’m overly paranoid being a former Marine.

Good point! Tyler, want to chime in one this?

[TylerR]

Just a thought and call me paranoid but do we really want to include the DAA name anyplace in that document. We all know how they can get...aka AmmoMike. Again, I’m overly paranoid being a former Marine.

I do completely agree with this. o416 can we remove any reference to DAA. Maybe just word it differently.

Also would like to add, if anyone feels like we left someone out of the attributions page please say so. I know there are so many people who contributed and we would like to recognize as many as possible.

[o416]

I do completely agree with this. o416 can we remove any reference to DAA. Maybe just word it differently.

Also would like to add, if anyone feels like we left someone out of the attributions page please say so. I know there are so many people who contributed and we would like to recognize as many as possible.

I will fix this right away so as to avoid any BS.

Gimme a few :)

[o416]

I will fix this right away so as to avoid any BS.

Gimme a few :)

Should I remove their video link too?

[TylerR]

Should I remove their video link too?

Good question. Probably. I would be happy to record a much shorter and to the point video explaining the feed dies.

[lablover]

Good question. Probably. I would be happy to record a much shorter and to the point video explaining the feed dies.

Don’t hesitate here either. We are just inviting them to interfere. I. Sure they have bots on the web searching for the D** name

[TylerR]

Awesome work! Already reading and adding suggestions.

Can I just go out on a limb and say this process if freaking awesome! I love this place. A light in the darkness that seems to surround the country and world right now.

[lablover]

Can I just go out on a limb and say this process if freaking awesome! I love this place. A light in the darkness that seems to surround the country and world right now.

Could not agree with you more!

[o416]

Don’t hesitate here either. We are just inviting them to interfere. I. Sure they have bots on the web searching for the D** name

I agree, the ball bearings are pretty ease to figure out anyways. I will just add notes :)

[Andar]

Can I just go out on a limb and say this process if freaking awesome! I love this place. A light in the darkness that seems to surround the country and world right now.

This is going to make me seem terrible, but who cares. Due to AmmoMike, you and the rest of you guys, I got back into reloading. I bought my press 4 years ago, loaded 20-30 rounds and stopped using it because of some sticking issues. Now that I've got this massive setup and "saved" a thousand dollars or more I'm getting back into this. I fixed my issues the other day and ready to start again. Time to start cranking this out because I have no excuses not to anymore.

[TylerR]

Andar, just to clarify your comment about AM83. Are you saying remove his name in the paragraph above, since he is the first name of acknowledgements?

[TylerR]

This is going to make me seem terrible, but who cares. Due to AmmoMike, you and the rest of you guys, I got back into reloading. I bought my press 4 years ago, loaded 20-30 rounds and stopped using it because of some sticking issues. Now that I've got this massive setup and "saved" a thousand dollars or more I'm getting back into this. I fixed my issues the other day and ready to start again. Time to start cranking this out because I have no excuses not to anymore.

That's a great story. Thanks for sharing that.

[Andar]

Andar, just to clarify your comment about AM83. Are you saying remove his name in the paragraph above, since he is the first name of acknowledgements?

No, it's spelled wrong. miLe instead of miKe.

[TylerR]

No, it's spelled wrong. miLe instead of miKe.

Oh yeah. haha. good catch

[TylerR]

Great to see you guys adding feedback to the manual. Will only make it better.

Just wait till we get to add the proximity sensor stuff :)

[o416]

Okay, so I implemented almost all your changes and left some feedback as necessary. Please have a look and keep adding comments:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit?usp=sharing

I left out any mention of the proximity sensors, for now, as Tyler is working on this still and I have a feeling there will be some changes coming lol

Tyler, sending you the updated manual (v1.1) now.

[TylerR]

Okay, so I implemented almost all your changes and left some feedback as necessary. Please have a look and keep adding comments:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit?usp=sharing

I left out any mention of the proximity sensors, for now, as Tyler is working on this still and I have a feeling there will be some changes coming lol

Tyler, sending you the updated manual (v1.1) now.

Changes applied :)

[TylerR]

Still need to fix the AmmoMike misspelling on acknowledgements page

[Andar]

Looks like it's still the old manual, acknowledge page still has both typos.

[o416]

Tyler, my bad, I emailed it to you earlier. I can't upload to your drive due to permissions issues.

[TylerR]

Tyler, my bad, I emailed it to you earlier. I can't upload to your drive due to permissions issues.

Fixed!

[Andar]

I added a simpler picture of the wiring to the album, your choice if you want to change it with later revisions.
Sorry for not including it right away.

[TylerR]

I added a simpler picture of the wiring to the album, your choice if you want to change it with later revisions.
Sorry for not including it right away.

Bro your manual is going to change every day, just like the project.'

Edited to say o416 is going to have you change. lol

[o416]

I added a simpler picture of the wiring to the album, your choice if you want to change it with later revisions.
Sorry for not including it right away.

Will keep it in mind for later version :) Thx!

[o416]

Bro your manual is going to change every day, just like the project.

That's why I am going to wait for the proximity sensor stuff lol

Once I see enough suggestions in the spreadsheet, like 5 or more, I will update :)

[Andar]

It's looking great, amazing job dude. I'll take another look at it tomorrow.

[o416]

It's looking great, amazing job dude. I'll take another look at it tomorrow.

Thanks man! Feedback is always welcome :)

[TylerR]

Thanks man! Feedback is always welcome :)

Dude, I just looked at the latest version and damn you covered it all. Kudos man. Job well done,

[o416]

Dude, I just looked at the latest version and damn you covered it all. Kudos man. Job well done,

Thanks Tyler! It wasn't hard to do since I have been following your amazing progress from the beginning.

I will keep updating the manual until you are done with it, if that even happens LOL

[o416]

Thanks Tyler! It wasn't hard to do since I have been following your amazing progress from the beginning.

I will keep updating the manual until you are done with it, if that even happens LOL

Funny to think you started all of this with a post saying: I am making another main body that is 40% larger hahahaha

My hat goes off to you sir!

[TylerR]

So here is the proof of concept for the new proximity sensor solution that will work with the existing drop tubes. The drop tubes do need to be modifed, simply because there are no 18mm sensors that will detect a small bullet from far enough away. I feel confident that the one I ordered will work though. So the drop tube has been modified to allow the sensor to be closer to the bullet column. The same drop tube can now be used with the light sensor or proximity sensor. Here is a pic of the modification and the sensor housing parts.

273222273235

I shot a quick video showing the new housing in action using the sensor GWS recommended, which is strong enough to detect the .45acp bullets. You can see the lights turn off as soon as the bullet column reaches the sensor.


https://youtu.be/2UJ7yEqrAnA

[TylerR]

I am uploading v1.2.6

It has the modified drop tubes, and the sensor housing parts. I don't see these really changing at this point. All I need to complete my project is the new sensor, which is smaller and has a longer sensing range (14mm instead of 8mm). It is definitely more expensive but if it works I think it's worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


To clarify, GWS's solution is if you want to use the proximity sensor to have the bullet column go right to the collator. My solution is if you want the bullet column to stop at the drop tube.
Both solutions are in the Drop Tubes folder.

[TylerR]

o416 I do question if we should rename the non switch drop tube back to just drop tube, and remove the LED prefix, since they now work with LED or Proximity sensors.

Whenever you get a chance if you want to update the manual. I changed the file names. And we can probably add the proximity sensor stuff in there now since it is officially available as an option.

[TylerR]

Well, I am going to take the plunge and print another collator body. Decided to stick with the McMaster Motor. I will set this one up to use the proximity sensor. I would like to thank GWS again for his ideas and innovations that allowed me to design my solution so quickly.

[tanders]

Thank you for all your hard work on this. I am currently working on a print for this.

Any plans on making a multiple piece(glue or bolt together) to have an extra large case collator?

[TylerR]

Thank you for all your hard work on this. I am currently working on a print for this.

Any plans on making a multiple piece(glue or bolt together) to have an extra large case collator?

Not at this time no. I have found with the wall extender you can shove quite a bit of brass in there.

[o416]

o416 I do question if we should rename the non switch drop tube back to just drop tube, and remove the LED prefix, since they now work with LED or Proximity sensors.

Whenever you get a chance if you want to update the manual. I changed the file names. And we can probably add the proximity sensor stuff in there now since it is officially available as an option.

I will make the changes today :)

If anybody else has feedback or the manual, please add it here so I can add it to v1.2
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit#gid=0

Thx for adding your feedback Andar :) I will add that today as well

[TylerR]

Fedex tracking says I should have my new sensor on the 17th. Woot!

[lablover]

Fedex tracking says I should have my new sensor on the 17th. Woot!

And I thought I was like a little kid...HAHAHAHAHA

Time to play with some APP stuff.

Wait, WHAT..no .315 bullet APP slide? I'm crushed. lol. Guess I'll just use the one I made with a bolt in it...yuk. ;)

[TylerR]

And I thought I was like a little kid...HAHAHAHAHA

Time to play with some APP stuff.

Wait, WHAT..no .315 bullet APP slide? I'm crushed. lol. Guess I'll just use the one I made with a bolt in it...yuk. ;)

I said this many pages back. You want anything for a specific caliber, let me know. At this point I can generate these things in minutes :)

This is for the .32 acp? What is the minimum height of the bullets again?

So wait, are you casting for .32acp?

[lablover]

I said this many pages back. You want anything for a specific caliber, let me know. At this point I can generate these things in minutes :)

This is for the .32 acp? What is the minimum height of the bullets again?

Yup, remember that now as I sheepishly type this.

9.44 mm tall
8.01 mm dia
This is as out of the mold. Not sure what wiggle room you put in there. Trying to think of what else I need sized?

Been focusing too much on the bullet feeder for loading. Yes, .32 acp lead

[TylerR]

Yup, remember that now as I sheepishly type this.

9.44 mm tall
8.01 mm dia
This is as out of the mold. Not sure what wiggle room you put in there. Trying to think of what else I need sized?

Been focusing too much on the bullet feeder for loading. Yes, .32 acp lead

Coming right up bro! haha

[TylerR]

Coming right up bro! haha

Posted. Let me know how they work.

[lablover]

Posted. Let me know how they work.

Absolutely will. Didn’t even think about it until I was at Lee site and ordered a .315 bullet sizing die for the app and then it hit me! I have .314 die but want to try a little bigger bullet as my lead accuracy is suffering a bit and am convinced it’s the bullet size.
Thanks a million buddy. App bracket is printing now.

[TylerR]

Absolutely will. Didn’t even think about it until I was at Lee site and ordered a .315 bullet sizing die for the app and then it hit me! I have .314 die but want to try a little bigger bullet as my lead accuracy is suffering a bit and am convinced it’s the bullet size.
Thanks a million buddy. App bracket is printing now.

I reposted the .32 bullet insert. It needed to be moved up to the #2 APP clear tube.

Edited to add: I have set the diameter to 8.2mm to hopefully give just the right clearance.

[RedlegEd]

Tyler has uploaded the manual we collaborated on so please have a look :)

However, we want everyone's feedback on this, so we have setup a Google Sheet here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit#gid=0

Just add whatever you think needs should be there and we will try our best to add it to future manual versions :)

o416,
I just reviewed the manual, and I must say, you have done a masterful job. Excellent work with a great format for updates and changes. Kudos to you, Andar, GWS, TylerR, and everyone who worked on it and put it together. Mostly you since I think you were behind most of it.
Ed

[TylerR]

o416,
I just reviewed the manual, and I must say, you have done a masterful job. Excellent work with a great format for updates and changes. Kudos to you, Andar, GWS, TylerR, and everyone who worked on it and put it together. Mostly you since I think you were behind most of it.
Ed

Ed, I know you were involved in this project early on. If there are any early contributors you can think of that we left out please let us know.

[lablover]

I reposted the .32 bullet insert. It needed to be moved up to the #2 APP clear tube.

Edited to add: I have set the diameter to 8.2mm to hopefully give just the right clearance.

Thanks Bud, re downloaded and should have them printed tomorrow some time

[TylerR]

Thanks Bud, re downloaded and should have them printed tomorrow some time

Cool. I don't do anything with .32acp so definitely relying on you for feedback on if its working or not.

[lablover]

Cool. I don't do anything with .32acp so definitely relying on you for feedback on if its working or not.

count on it! we had some great luck with it in the bullet feeder

[TylerR]

Ahh the joys of printing another collator. Isn't it a picture of beauty from my OctoPrint camera? :)

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[GWS]

Ugh! Dillon Bulue....:grin:

[TylerR]

Ugh! Dillon Bulue....:grin:

HAHAHAHAHA. Love it! I am by no means a Dillon fanboy. But I figure might as well match!

[GWS]

Ugh! Dillon Bulue!....:grin:

I need to change my pen name to divergant.....

I don't see any changes yet.....post back in a few more layers.....;)

[TylerR]

Ugh! Dillon Bulue!....:grin:

I need to change my pen name to divergant.....

I don't see any changes yet.....post back in a few more layers.....;)

Sad thing is I only have two colors of filament right now. Blue and black. I need to order some of that slick stuff you are using. Add a little bling to my setup.

[lablover]

Sad thing is I only have two colors of filament right now. Blue and black. I need to order some of that slick stuff you are using. Add a little bling to my setup.

Now that’s what we need. The most colorful bullet feeder contest. Like crazy colors! Every different part a different color. Hahahahaha

[TylerR]

Now that’s what we need. The most colorful bullet feeder contest. Like crazy colors! Every different part a different color. Hahahahaha

Haha that would be funny. I feel like the old lame guy here. Everyone else has clear, metallic green/red and all kinds of fancy stuff. I got some ordering to do :)

[lablover]

Haha that would be funny. I feel like the old lame guy here. Everyone else has clear, metallic green/red and all kinds of fancy stuff. I got some ordering to do :)

That clear is butt ugly but strong. I ordered some chromatic brown color for the wife that turns purple when in different light. She wanted some vases for the new bedroom set! Pretty wild looking color for sure. I may have half a roll of that inland clear/natural if you want it. I’ll stick it in a box and send it to you if you like. I swear I must have 20+ half rolls of all kinds of filament. Next test may be nylon/pla carbon fiber.

[TylerR]

That clear is butt ugly but strong. I ordered some chromatic brown color for the wife that turns purple when in different light. She wanted some vases for the new bedroom set! Pretty wild looking color for sure. I may have half a roll of that inland clear/natural if you want it. I’ll stick it in a box and send it to you if you like. I swear I must have 20+ half rolls of all kinds of filament. Next test may be nylon/pla carbon fiber.

I burn through so much filament testing my designs its ridiculous. I have a graveyard of empty filament spools in the basement. haha

[o416]

o416,
I just reviewed the manual, and I must say, you have done a masterful job. Excellent work with a great format for updates and changes. Kudos to you, Andar, GWS, TylerR, and everyone who worked on it and put it together. Mostly you since I think you were behind most of it.
Ed

Thanks RedlegEd :)

I hope it benefits everyone involved in this project. I will be adding the proximity stuff to the manual tomorrow. Feel free to leave your feedback!

[TylerR]

Thanks RedlegEd :)

I hope it benefits everyone involved in this project. I will be adding the proximity stuff to the manual tomorrow. Feel free to leave your feedback!

If you have any questions about how mine works please let me know.

[o416]

If you have any questions about how mine works please let me know.

Will do! It makes sense after watching your video.

Just wondering what you are doing different with the new main body. Is it the location/shape of the drop hole?

[TylerR]

Will do! It makes sense after watching your video.

Just wondering what you are doing different with the new main body. Is it the location/shape of the drop hole?

I am not doing anything new with the main body. After many days of deliberation I have decided to keep it as is.

[GWS]

Now that’s what we need. The most colorful bullet feeder contest. Like crazy colors! Every different part a different color. Hahahahaha

I already did that with Proximity down tubes........I draw the line at base buckets.....as Henry Ford said, you can have any color you want as long as it is black. As for the rest of the parts.....I'm open to anything.....except maybe your clear...;)

https://i.postimg.cc/hP9LZmGf/IMG-3721.jpg

Notice the black spool in the background with red filament.....goot contrast!

Like this!

https://i.postimg.cc/26RcCptk/IMG-3713.jpg

[GWS]

Remember this early Proximity setup? Much better now......but look at the green stuff in AmmoMike's little tub that I used successfully for .45 boollit point down....without a ramp?


https://youtu.be/INL8o7uZUUA

If I'd have made the tub green too, it'd light up the room ..... in an obnoxious way IMO.;) Too much is too much.....even RCBS green!

I've got my finish carpentry done, the carpets being layed at my job, so finally I may just get my case feeder finished this week....hope so.

[TylerR]

Remember this early Proximity setup? Much better now......but look at the green stuff in AmmoMike's little tub that I used successfully for .45 boollit point down....without a ramp?

If I'd have made the tub green too, it'd light up the room ..... in an obnoxious way IMO.;) Too much is too much.....even RCBS green!

I've got my finish carpentry done, the carpets being layed at my job, so finally I may just get my case feeder finished this week....hope so.

Love the old video. Isn't it cool when you have documentation of how the project progressed?

Sounds dumb but there were so many things I learned on how to design my proximity sensor, just from your trial and error.

[TylerR]

Progress.....

273261

[GWS]

That's what makes this thread so good......same to say about your experience and others too. I'd have never progressed as fast without you....but I'm still a beginner printer.....and we all have input that's worthwhile that makes us all better.

Progress.... I notice one hole for the ramp.....I knew you discovered two weren't necessary or wanted. But the outlet hole looks the same....not ready for that change? or maybe it's going to be shallower than I did it. Should be an interesting education.

[o416]

I am not doing anything new with the main body. After many days of deliberation I have decided to keep it as is.

Oh! I thought when you said you were printing another main body it was because you made changes :)

[TylerR]

Oh! I thought when you said you were printing another main body it was because you made changes :)

Nope. I did a lot of 3d cad design and a lot of testing, and I am not convinced adding complexity to the drop hole on the main body is worth it. I feel like with the correct settings the drop hole works fine exactly as designed.

[TylerR]

I am printing another body so I can use the new proximity sensor I should be getting in the next week.

[TylerR]

Progress.... I notice one hole for the ramp.....I knew you discovered two weren't necessary or wanted. But the outlet hole looks the same....not ready for that change? or maybe it's going to be shallower than I did it. Should be an interesting education.

Not exactly sure what you mean, but I determined one hole was simpler once the ramp was put in a track. Which was necessary to avoid the big lip on the slide plate to collator transition.

[GWS]

No, I don't mean the single hole....I knew why you did that....that's just the first upgraded plate I've seen with one hole.


Nope. I did a lot of 3d cad design and a lot of testing, and I am not convinced adding complexity to the drop hole on the main body is worth it. I feel like with the correct settings the drop hole works fine exactly as designed.

That's what I mean. You're not convinced. ;)

Actually, the reason I started playing with the outlet holes had more to do with the collator.....(the pre 3d print Hornady) which had an AC motor that ran one speed.....fast. In order to keep it from breaking gears under the plate (I did that when I converted it to flip bullets), I had to figure out a way to dump the bullets faster or they caught on the way down and broke things. So I was used to fast. My AmmoMike bucket needed something similar or slow it waaay down. I admit slowing it way down works and is still probably fast enough to keep up with my press handle workout....but faster is sorta me. I like fast cars best too.

All that said, what I really hate is the complexity (you mentioned complexity) of adjusting each application for just the right angle and just the right speed to work every time. You see, at my age, it's a memory thing. :) Drives me crazy. With that in mind, if I can get fast to work flawlessly, any speed (usually) works.....and that's simpler for me.

[TylerR]

No, I don't mean the single hole....I knew why you did that....that's just the first upgraded plate I've seen with one hole.



That's what I mean. You're not convinced. ;)

Actually, the reason I started playing with the outlet holes had more to do with the collator.....(the pre 3d print Hornady) which had an AC motor that ran one speed.....fast. In order to keep it from breaking gears under the plate (I did that when I converted it to flip bullets), I had to figure out a way to dump the bullets faster or they caught on the way down and broke things. So I was used to fast. My AmmoMike bucket needed something similar or slow it waaay down. I admit slowing it way down works and is still probably fast enough to keep up with my press handle workout....but faster is sorta me. I like fast cars best too.

All that said, what I really hate is the complexity (you mentioned complexity) of adjusting each application for just the right angle and just the right speed to work every time. You see, at my age, it's a memory thing. :) Drives me crazy. With that in mind, if I can get fast to work flawlessly, any speed (usually) works.....and that's simpler for me.

I still may revisit it. The idea of having an interchangeable part that leads up to the hole is basically what it would be. If in place it acts like it does now. If removed completely bullets would pre-drop. Or there could also be one that acts as a ramp to slowly lead down to the drop hole.

[lablover]

OK, who stole the Manual?

I'm a Boner! Found it

[TylerR]

OK, who stole the Manual?

I'm a Boner! Found it

I took it out of the main folder, but it is in the download. As soon as I get v1.2 from o416 I will add it back in.

[lablover]

I took it out of the main folder, but it is in the download. As soon as I get v1.2 from o416 I will add it back in.

Need to brush up on my bullet nose down action! Never used the APP to size bullets yet. Not even sure what plate to start with for the .32 nose down. I use the 3 for nose up so I will start there. These are gonna be tough little buggers. 32 app SWC. so so small

[TylerR]

Need to brush up on my bullet nose down action! Never used the APP to size bullets yet. Not even sure what plate to start with for the .32 nose down. I use the 3 for nose up so I will start there. These are gonna be tough little buggers. 32 app SWC. so so small

You may need to use the same offset adapter I designed. As it is today, it is going to sit about 2mm above the slide plate. I just uploaded a newer version of that adapter 2mm shorter. Give it a shot.

[lablover]

You may need to use the same offset adapter I designed. As it is today, it is going to sit about 2mm above the slide plate. I just uploaded a newer version of that adapter 2mm shorter. Give it a shot.

Learn something new every day. Thanks a ton

[TylerR]

I posted this before, but this shows the base concept. Swapable parts that can be designed to satisfy whatever solution is needed.

273285

[TylerR]

Learn something new every day. Thanks a ton

You are also going to have to manually position the offset so it lines up in the correct orientation. Best way to do that is insert it in the drop hole adapter, insert it in to the slide plate, line it up, and then screw the adapter down.

[tanders]

Are you doing to make a primer plate for it?

[TylerR]

Are you doing to make a primer plate for it?

I'm sorry but not exactly sure what you are looking for.

[lablover]

You are also going to have to manually position the offset so it lines up in the correct orientation. Best way to do that is insert it in the drop hole adapter, insert it in to the slide plate, line it up, and then screw the adapter down.

Thank you sir!

[TylerR]

o416 has been very quiet today. He must be working hard on that new manual version :)

[tanders]

Not sure it's actually safe to accomplish in this scale but a plate and a slide to collate primers into a tube.

[o416]

o416 has been very quiet today. He must be working hard on that new manual version :)

haha :)

I had a really rough night yesterday and am totally wiped today.

I will get working on it first thing tomorrow and have the new proximity stuff and suggestions added.

[o416]

The manual has been updated to v1.2 :)

I will send it to Tyler shortly to include with the project.

Feel free to add your comments here as I respond to all of them:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit#gid=0

Thanks!

[GWS]

Not sure it's actually safe to accomplish in this scale but a plate and a slide to collate primers into a tube.

A company or two make those, but they have vibrators to make them work. The only thing I've made is an improved APS strip loader, but that was before I had a 3d Printer, and used a marble to push them down into the strips better than RCBS's. Still that method is faster than pecking into a tube one at a time.

https://i.postimg.cc/8kYw1tb3/IMG-1459.jpg

Above: The marble holder could be done with 3D printing, as could the press control on the other side. The flaw with RCBS's original is without the marble the primers are often left proud and makes them hang in the tools unless you fill the strips then use a hard flat surface to rub across each strip to make sure they are press in enough....flat bottoms are essential......the marbles make them recessed slightly....even better.

Video below: loading a box of 100 APS Style on my improved loader.....could probably 3D some of that...even the base, but I do like the Oak base that gives it some weight and class.

https://vimeo.com/261388716

The biggest plus for APS is I can store ready to load primers (as if stored in 20 tubes a very dangerous practice) safely for use in my APS bench primer or my APS Pro 2000 press. Once loaded and stored, faster and safer than about anything. I know more divergence...;)

https://i.postimg.cc/cHFNbf9p/IMG-2830.jpg

BTW labover.....still waiting for pictures of your clear parts.....!!

[TylerR]

The manual has been updated to v1.2 :)

I will send it to Tyler shortly to include with the project.

Feel free to add your comments here as I respond to all of them:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit#gid=0

Thanks!

Posted!

[TylerR]

A company or two make those, but they have vibrators to make them work. The only thing I've made is an improved APS strip loader, but that was before I had a 3d Printer, and used a marble to push them down into the strips better than RCBS's. Still that method is faster than pecking into a tube one at a time.

Above: The marble holder could be done with 3D printing, as could the press control on the other side.

Video below: loading a box of 100 APS Style on my improved loader.....could probably 3D some of that...even the base, but I do like the Oak base that gives it some weight and class.

The biggest plus for APS is I can store ready to load primers (as if stored in 20 tubes a very dangerous practice) safely for use in my APS bench primer or my APS Pro 2000 press. Once loaded and stored, faster and safer than about anything. I know more divergence...;)

BTW labover.....still waiting for pictures of your clear parts.....!!

Very neat tool you made there.

[lablover]

Can anyone point me to a picture of nose down set up on a APP? I want to make sure I’m printing everything I need.

Tyler, the .32 APP bullet slider and tube you made a few days back work great. Had to do a tiny bit of sanding inside the tube as I think my printer is printing a tiny bit small but nothing earth shattering.

[TylerR]

Can anyone point me to a picture of nose down set up on a APP? I want to make sure I’m printing everything I need.

Tyler, the .32 APP bullet slider and tube you made a few days back work great. Had to do a tiny bit of sanding inside the tube as I think my printer is printing a tiny bit small but nothing earth shattering.

The video I made shows all of the necessary parts.

[lablover]

The video I made shows all of the necessary parts.

I just looked at the slider plate for the nose down and now realize what I need. I didn’t realize I need a adapter under that...I get it now. Not clear headed this morning. Hahahaha

The APP parts I have and understand, it was on the collater that had me stumped for a minute

[TylerR]

I just looked at the slider plate for the nose down and now realize what I need. I didn’t realize I need a adapter under that...I get it now. Not clear headed this morning. Hahahaha

The APP parts I have and understand, it was on the collater that had me stumped for a minute

Oh yes, the nose down slide plates require the same drop hole adapter that is on the main body. And that is where you are going to want to line up the offset spring adapter to be aligned correctly, and use the new one I posted that is 2mm shorter.

[lablover]

Oh yes, the nose down slide plates require the same drop hole adapter that is on the main body. Any that is where you are going to want to line up the offset spring adapter to be aligned correctly, and use the new one I posted that is 2mm shorter.

Thats where my mind took a nap...LOL. Clear as a bell now. I am curious what that square piece sticking up on the nose down plates is for? Im sure once I get it all together I'll figure it out.

[TylerR]

Thats where my mind took a nap...LOL. Clear as a bell now. I am curious what that square piece sticking up on the nose down plates is for? Im sure once I get it all together I'll figure it out.

It prevents bullets that are nose up from leaning over and dropping down the hole. Basically improves the reliability in preventing nose ups from falling in the hole.

[lablover]

It prevents bullets that are nose up from leaning over and dropping down the hole. Basically improves the reliability in preventing nose ups from falling in the hole.

Aghhhh, Thank you

[o416]

What you guys think about the new manual cover? lol

[lablover]

what you guys think about the new manual cover? Lol

bad a$$

[RedlegEd]

What you guys think about the new manual cover? lol

Love it!

[TylerR]

What you guys think about the new manual cover? lol

I like it o416. Nice work.

[TylerR]

lablover when you do print out the new offset spring adapter that is 2mm shorter, can you run a quick test on the bullet nose up feeding just to make sure nothing changes there as far as reliability?

[lablover]

lablover when you do print out the new offset spring adapter that is 2mm shorter, can you run a quick test on the bullet nose up feeding just to make sure nothing changes there as far as reliability?


I will do that. Its heading to the printer now with several other items.

Did GWS ever post his little Electronics Box? I didn't see it

[TylerR]

I will do that. Its heading to the printer now with several other items.

Did GWS ever post his little Electronics Box? I didn't see it

I just reposted it in the Proximity_Sensor file. I still have to add it in to the main download.

[lablover]

I just reposted it in the Proximity_Sensor file. I still have to add it in to the main download.

Awesome..both printers are busy right now so I’ll check in a bit. This thing is getting streamlined big time

[Rage 01]

Just had a chance to download the new manual. All I have to say is WOW, great job. Well organized, pictures look great. Over all a great manual for a great project.
I was reading that you took out all reference to DAA. Not to be a pain in the A$$ but, isn't that a picture of the DAA motor on the from cover? Or is that a different one? If it is the DAA one you might want to change the picture. Might as well sever all ties to DAA so there is NO problem at all. Just thinking here. Other than that a great job by all.

[Rage 01]

Progress.....

273261

Hey TylerR which blue is that. Looks real close to the Dillon Blue. The blue I have is a bit darker than that.
Is it an Amazon buy?

Thankx

[TylerR]

Hey TylerR which blue is that. Looks real close to the Dillon Blue. The blue I have is a bit darker than that.
Is it an Amazon buy?

Thankx

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0883FS7PH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

[lablover]

Just had a chance to download the new manual. All I have to say is WOW, great job. Well organized, pictures look great. Over all a great manual for a great project.
I was reading that you took out all reference to DAA. Not to be a pain in the A$$ but, isn't that a picture of the DAA motor on the from cover? Or is that a different one? If it is the DAA one you might want to change the picture. Might as well sever all ties to DAA so there is NO problem at all. Just thinking here. Other than that a great job by all.

McMaster motor is identical. I don’t think it’s an issue

[TylerR]

Added GWS's electronics box in the main download. I may design yet another one for more options, and steal GWS's idea about the slide on lid.

[lablover]

Added GWS's electronics box in the main download. I may design yet another one for more options, and steal GWS's idea about the slide on lid.


Nooooo...shocking. Lol. Almost expected it

[TylerR]

I still never got an answer about the motor power passing through the proximity sensor, and if it can handle the amperage of the larger motors. Anyone have any input on this?

[lablover]

I still never got an answer about the motor power passing through the proximity sensor, and if it can handle the amperage of the larger motors. Anyone have any input on this?

Being I’m an electrical illiterate I’ll pass this to GWS. But I have the same proximity switch he recommends and it’s working fine with the McMaster motor. Doesn’t mean Im right however...hahahahaha

[Rage 01]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0883FS7PH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Thank you sir.
Amazon Canada does not have that item. They have Overture filament but not the Digital Blue.

[TylerR]

Does anyone have any comments or feedback on my post from a few pages back about the drop hole enhancement? I am willing to put the effort in and make the change if we can get agreement it would be helpful.

"I posted this before, but this shows the base concept. Swapable parts that can be designed to satisfy whatever solution is needed. Pre-drop of longer bullets, or a ramp that slowly drops the bullet as it approaches the hole"

273333

[lablover]

Does anyone have any comments or feedback on my post from a few pages back about the drop hole enhancement? I am will to put the effort in and make the change if we can get agreement it would be helpful.

"I posted this before, but this shows the base concept. Swapable parts that can be designed to satisfy whatever solution is needed. Pre-drop of longer bullets, or a ramp that slowly drops the bullet as it approaches the hole"

273333

Being we have so much time and effort invested in the current design not sure I’d want to replace it. Offering it as another option might be good. Gives the end user another option. I’m not familiar with the new design one bit but if it would help with certain stubborn bullets I would not be opposed to trying it. I do like the ramp as it approaches the hole option

Just my 2 cents

[noacess]

Does anyone have any comments or feedback on my post from a few pages back about the drop hole enhancement? I am will to put the effort in and make the change if we can get agreement it would be helpful.

"I posted this before, but this shows the base concept. Swapable parts that can be designed to satisfy whatever solution is needed. Pre-drop of longer bullets, or a ramp that slowly drops the bullet as it approaches the hole"

273333

I guess I'll defer to those that have a need. You saw in my video how fast I was able to load super long 300BLK bullets without a pre-drop. Then again, if 8.6 Blackout ever comes out my tune may change lol. Honestly I need to do a lot more loading with what I've built so far before I figure out what else I'll need. I'm printing a second collator now with the new 634JS orientation so we'll see how that goes.



Side question with for folks who now use TylerR's collator and used to use an AM collator; what are you doing with your old AM collator?

[TylerR]

Being we have so much time and effort invested in the current design not sure I’d want to replace it. Offering it as another option might be good. Gives the end user another option. I’m not familiar with the new design one bit but if it would help with certain stubborn bullets I would not be opposed to trying it. I do like the ramp as it approaches the hole option

Just my 2 cents

The only real benefit that it would offer (as far as I am aware) is to allow you to run the collator faster for longer bullets so that they can pre-drop and not get hung up. I did some recent testing with my 230gn 300bo which are about 35mm long and I did not have any issues with hanging unless I really cranked up the speed.

[TylerR]

Side question with for folks who now use TylerR's collator and used to use an AM collator; what are you doing with your old AM collator?

I donated mine to another member :)

[lablover]

I donated mine to another member :)

I have like 2 sitting in a corner

[GWS]

Added GWS's electronics box in the main download. I may design yet another one for more options, and steal GWS's idea about the slide on lid.

And do a better job with the hold-downs. Knowing what I know now, my next one will have an angled edge on the sides to coordinate with angling the hold-downs rather than having the hanging in mid air problem....

What is there now works, it just could be cleaner,better with the hold-downs. For a larger box and lid that becomes even more important.

[GWS]

I still never got an answer about the motor power passing through the proximity sensor, and if it can handle the amperage of the larger motors. Anyone have any input on this?

Maybe I didn't understand it, but I don't have the motor passing anything through the sensor, they are mounted in parallel both using the same (one)12V 400mA wall wart power supply (old telephone p.s.). This is the big box Dayton motor, almost exactly the same, in every way, to your McNasty (couldn't resist) motor. (probably made by Dayton or whoever makes the Dayton) . Wired inbetween is the little speed control I posted.....and it controls the fast Dayton (faster gears than yours) down to zero pretty darn good.

Power comes from the Wall Wart to the speed control. The speed control only controls the motor. The sensor is just mounted parallel to the speed control's input! IOW's ....

Connect positive sensor-in to the positive speedcontrol-in to the positive power out.

Positive speedcontrol-out connects to positive motor-in.

Negatives are all tied together.

Do you need a schematic, or will the picture I posted be good enough?

[TylerR]

Maybe I didn't understand it, but I don't have the motor passing anything through the sensor, they are mounted in parallel both using the same (one)12V 400mA wall wart power supply (old telephone p.s.). This is the big box Dayton motor, almost exactly the same, in every way, to your McNasty (couldn't resist) motor. (probably made by Dayton or whoever makes the Dayton) . Wired inbetween is the little speed control I posted.....and it controls the fast Dayton (faster gears than yours) down to zero pretty darn good.

Power comes from the Wall Wart to the speed control. The speed control only controls the motor. The sensor is just mounted parallel to the speed control's input! IOW's ....

Connect positive sensor-in to the positive speedcontrol-in to the positive power out.

Positive speedcontrol-out connects to motor-in.

Negatives are all tied together.

Do you need a schematic, or will the picture I posted be good enough?

That generally all makes sense to me, and a lot of times it's not till I sit down and start wiring things up that it all comes together. That being said, If you wouldn't mind creating a schematic in paint to help visualize That would help tremendously. And it could also be added to the new amazing user manual we now have.

[o416]

Does anyone have any comments or feedback on my post from a few pages back about the drop hole enhancement? I am willing to put the effort in and make the change if we can get agreement it would be helpful.

"I posted this before, but this shows the base concept. Swapable parts that can be designed to satisfy whatever solution is needed. Pre-drop of longer bullets, or a ramp that slowly drops the bullet as it approaches the hole"

273333

The concept is super cool but keep it on the backburner for now. The current main body works solid and I wouldn't print a new one just for that feature. My 2 cents :)

[o416]

Thank you sir.
Amazon Canada does not have that item. They have Overture filament but not the Digital Blue.

I used Lake Blue from AMZ3D and it is available in Canada via Amazon; in stock too!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GUE68ZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check mine here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HKhk4F-WNsB4OkI-ERxZIuUhwI5WHacZ/view?usp=sharing

[o416]

Just had a chance to download the new manual. All I have to say is WOW, great job. Well organized, pictures look great. Over all a great manual for a great project.
I was reading that you took out all reference to DAA. Not to be a pain in the A$$ but, isn't that a picture of the DAA motor on the from cover? Or is that a different one? If it is the DAA one you might want to change the picture. Might as well sever all ties to DAA so there is NO problem at all. Just thinking here. Other than that a great job by all.

Thanks man :) The DAA motor isn't made by them so it's not like they can claim copyright, or whatever, to it. The motor is a McMaster from Grainger.

The only reference to DAA in the manual is that the drop tubes can fit on them :)

[TylerR]

I would just to say, lots of great feedback on the manual. Every suggestion helps make it stronger. Now if I could just get more people to start updating the slide plate / bullet caliber chart.....

[o416]

I would just to say, lots of great feedback on the manual. Every suggestion helps make it stronger. Now if I could just get more people to start updating the slide plate / bullet caliber chart.....

haha :)

[o416]

I still never got an answer about the motor power passing through the proximity sensor, and if it can handle the amperage of the larger motors. Anyone have any input on this?

For the proximity sensor notes, should I mention 8mm for GWS and 14mm for yours as a recommendation? Or 14mm for both?

[TylerR]

For the proximity sensor notes, should I mention 8mm for GWS and 14mm for yours as a recommendation? Or 14mm for both?

Good question. One has a further reach, is more expensive but should cover all needs. it is also quite a bit shorter. The other one is cheaper. Mine should be arriving tomorrow, so I will be in a better place to compare the two more objectively.

Edited to add for those who care: One is made in the USA (Maybe? who knows these days?), the other China.

[Andar]

Side question with for folks who now use TylerR's collator and used to use an AM collator; what are you doing with your old AM collator?

Ammo Mike is my bullet feeder, TylerR is my case feeder. Both using the jgy370 motors so the increased size works better for the lighter cases.
273346

[GWS]

That generally all makes sense to me, and a lot of times it's not till I sit down and start wiring things up that it all comes together. That being said, If you wouldn't mind creating a schematic in paint to help visualize That would help tremendously. And it could also be added to the new amazing user manual we now have.

The three wire vs 2 wire proximity sensor makes it appear harder than it is. The stupid third wire just adds a step. See the bottom note in the picture below. Let me know if this clears it up for you.


That generally all makes sense to me, and a lot of times it's not till I sit down and start wiring things up that it all comes together. That being said, If you wouldn't mind creating a schematic in paint to help visualize That would help tremendously. And it could also be added to the new amazing user manual we now have.

The three wire vs 2 wire proximity sensor makes it appear harder than it is. The stupid third wire just adds a step. See the bottom note in the picture below. Let me know if this clears it up for you.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/L8Vj8rtM/Screenshot-2020-12-16-164933.png

The higher the Amperage rating on the power supply, the more stuff you can run....voltage stays at 12V as long as leads are in parallel......IOW's all positives together, all negatives together. I have had no trouble with the big Dayton motor and the sensor in parallel.

BTW, I discovered that the black wire just adds a resister to the circuit for some purpose known only to the manufacturer. I've tried it with and without the black wire, and it works either way, just fine........just a guess, but maybe with the resister the sensitivity changes? more or less, I haven't tested that theory so who knows.

What's weird is that this "suggested" wiring works, but it DOES go through the speed control......I'm thinking I'm going to try wiring it direct to the power supply leads instead and leave off the black wire. What I don't want is the speed control to reduce sensitivity. Testing.......

[TylerR]

GWS very helpful, thanks! Seems like one more thing we can get in the manual for wiring up these proximity sensors.

[Rage 01]

I used Lake Blue from AMZ3D and it is available in Canada via Amazon; in stock too!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GUE68ZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check mine here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HKhk4F-WNsB4OkI-ERxZIuUhwI5WHacZ/view?usp=sharing

Thankx for the info. I did find Overture in PetG Electric Blue color looks real close as well. The price is cheaper than PLA ATM. I don't mind printing in PetG.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0875RG7VT/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3M6OB6YPLO1C&psc=1

I know Overture prints well, have never printed with AMZ3D before. There is always a first. I should start writing these colors down and make a list of which colors match the best with the appropriate loading system. And the stats on which temps they print best at. I do for everything else.

[TylerR]

Thankx for the info. I did find Overture in PetG Electric Blue color looks real close as well. The price is cheaper than PLA ATM. I don't mind printing in PetG.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0875RG7VT/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3M6OB6YPLO1C&psc=1

I know Overture prints well, have never printed with AMZ3D before. There is always a first. I should start writing these colors down and make a list of which colors match the best with the appropriate loading system. And the stats on which temps they print best at. I do for everything else.

Such a list would be handy reference for anyone working on this project. I can say with confidence that both the overture blue and black PLA+ work very very well when printed at high temps (70c/210c)

[Macscotts56]

What you guys think about the new manual cover? lol

It's awesome!

[o416]

Can you guys test if the plate generator is working for long rifle? When I set the values, the plate disappears.

[o416]

So I printed the wall extender and for some reason it seems short compared to the sample pictures in the ZIP file.

Here is how mine looks:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HzlDCvGUjBzmGmgtJgytum48iGVIlphL/view?usp=sharing

That look right?

[Rage 01]

Such a list would be handy reference for anyone working on this project. I can say with confidence that both the overture blue and black PLA+ work very very well when printed at high temps (70c/110c)

I am assuming that is 210c not 110c?
Which printer and hotend are you using?

Something like this would work? I would make it a little more fancy when we get more input. You think there is enough information there for people?

Thankx
Raymond
273368

[TylerR]

So I printed the wall extender and for some reason it seems short compared to the sample pictures in the ZIP file.

Here is how mine looks:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HzlDCvGUjBzmGmgtJgytum48iGVIlphL/view?usp=sharing

That look right?

It is. You are going to want to just slide it to the far right side anyway, because that is where all the brass will try to escape from.

[TylerR]

I am assuming that is 210c not 110c?
Which printer and hotend are you using?

Something like this would work? I would make it a little more fancy when we get more input. You think there is enough information there for people?

Thankx
Raymond
273368

210 yes. It is a stock Ender 5.

[Rage 01]

I have started to put together a chart of the different types of Filament people are using and what machine they are using it on.
This is to help people on deciding which Brand, Color and where to get filament. It also helps with the temperatures that are being used and on what printer.

The temperatures will vary depending on which printer you have. You should always print a temp tower for each different roll of filament you are going to use.

So here is where you guys come in. Can you please send me the following information so I can get the ball rolling.

Filament Brand:
Filament type:
Filament color:
bed temp:
nozzle temp:
hot end type:
printer type:
nozzle size:
where you purchased the filament from:

You can see an example on post #2947

Thankx all.

[TylerR]

So here is where you guys come in. Can you please send me the following information so I can get the ball rolling.

Filament Brand: Overture
Filament type: PLA+
Filament color: Blue /Black
bed temp: 80 / 70 (Polypropylene bed sanded with 220 grit on top of glass bed)
nozzle temp: 220 / 210
hot end type: Stock
printer type: Ender 5
nozzle size: .4mm
where you purchased the filament from: Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YDN56F2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Andar]

Filament Brand: Hatchbox
Filament type: PLA
Filament colour: Blue (Sometimes it says true blue)
bed temp: 50 Glass bed, 60 with stock Magnetic sheet
nozzle temp: 200
hot end type: Stock
printer type: Ender 3 Pro
nozzle size: 0.4mm
where you purchased the filament from: Amazon
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00J0GPC80

[d278te]

Hi everyone. I'm looking through the writeup instructions for the bullet feeder and I cant seem to find how the motor interfaces with the collator plates. I see mention of a pinned shaft but I'm not sure what that means. Are you guys drilling a hole through the motor shaft then press fitting another rod through it, or is there a 3d printed coupler of some sort that I'm missing?

[TylerR]

Hi everyone. I'm looking through the writeup instructions for the bullet feeder and I cant seem to find how the motor interfaces with the collator plates. I see mention of a pinned shaft but I'm not sure what that means. Are you guys drilling a hole through the motor shaft then press fitting another rod through it, or is there a 3d printed coupler of some sort that I'm missing?

Bingo

[TylerR]

I reposted the download with a few changes. First, I added a main body for the McMaster/Dayton motor that has the removable section leading up to the drop hole for anyone who wants to test it out.

I also added some height to the nose down slide plates so the various adapters and plugs will sit flush.

Last, I changed the small spring adapters back to full length to also fit flush to the collator / new slide plates.

[TylerR]

GWS, I am looking for some more of your wisdom on this pre-drop modification to the main base. What other type of inserts would you see as useful? Maybe one that only pre-drops half the distance (4mm)? Or one that has a ramp that leads slowly down to the hole? Not sure else what would be useful.

[o416]

Filament Brand: AMZ3D
Filament type: PLA
Filament color: Lake Blue/Red/Grey
bed temp: 60
nozzle temp: 210
hot end type: Stock
printer type: Creality Ender 3 Pro
nozzle size: 0.4mm
where you purchased the filament from: Amazon

[Charlie_Sweden]

Hey,

I've been following you guys for a while from across the pond, thanks for all your hard work!

I'm almost finished printing all the parts, but when trying to print the Spring_Adapter_Large_DT the threads are to high up and breaks the part, as there is not enough wall thickness. What am I doing wrong?
273415

[Charlie_Sweden]

Also, I might have spotted an error in the manual. For the tube bending springs the OD an ID seem to be switched? An outer diameter of 13.15mm and inner of 15.5mm makes no sense to me. :)
273416

[lablover]

Filament Brand: Overture/ Inland
Filament type: PLA
Filament color: Blue, black, gray,green
bed temp: 50
nozzle temp: 210
hot end type: Micro Swiss
printer type: Creality Ender 3 , Creality cr10s
nozzle size: 0.4mm
where you purchased the filament from: Amazon

[Andar]

Also, I might have spotted an error in the manual. For the tube bending springs the OD an ID seem to be switched? An outer diameter of 13.15mm and inner of 15.5mm makes no sense to me. :)
273416

Haha, good catch! I made those and I didn't check that part. Looks like my chart and his had the columns in a different order and the data just got copy-pasted over.

[TylerR]

Hey,

I've been following you guys for a while from across the pond, thanks for all your hard work!

I'm almost finished printing all the parts, but when trying to print the Spring_Adapter_Large_DT the threads are to high up and breaks the part, as there is not enough wall thickness. What am I doing wrong?
273415

What is your nozzle width?

[GWS]

GWS, I am looking for some more of your wisdom on this pre-drop modification to the main base. What other type of inserts would you see as useful? Maybe one that only pre-drops half the distance (4mm)? Or one that has a ramp that leads slowly down to the hole? Not sure else what would be useful.

I posted a picture of my thoughts a few weeks ago, but I don't think I did a good job explaining. Look at the picture again and let me try to explain what I was thinking.

https://i.postimg.cc/526f7fnR/DOUBLE_DROP_OUTLET-Model.jpg

1. I was thinking of having inserts for different bullet diameters. The example shown in the top drawing, depicting a .223 caliber plug.....

With your little square peg I ran into a problem....a smaller plug wouldn't stay put with just a square peg on the inside face.....but a wedge would stay put. Of course you don't have that problem with the full plug or no plug.

2. I was thinking that the outlet screwed on below the base could easily be printed to handle any ramp conceivable, if you just cut the base clear through......heck if you want a shallower ramp just raise that spot on the outlet......on the other hand for really long stuff to drop in time you can start by just dropping it to the outlet plate....from there one can even ramp the outlet plate (different outlets for different things). Lots of options here....but it's do you want or need them....

3. I suggested three screws instead of your 4 and AmmoMike's 5 just to keep the screws from interfering with the drop zone. You realized one doesn't need 5 screws....I think you can lose one more....3 is ample!

Now! The biggest problem I ran into doing this with my stuff is long bullets falling over and jamming rather than just dropping pure and straight....especially with big .45 caliber or wider holes.....and even longer ones. I found that sometimes they could actually fall forward, ahead of the direction of rotation.....and that from a rough bottom surface.

I fixed that on mine best with a heated knife......but if the drop surface is the outlet top, then it's going to be glassy smooth if printed on your smooth polypropylene bed.....a slicker plastic like ABS might is another option.....but keeping the surface waxed worked for me....and that was before I got your smooth polypropylene bed.

[o416]

Also, I might have spotted an error in the manual. For the tube bending springs the OD an ID seem to be switched? An outer diameter of 13.15mm and inner of 15.5mm makes no sense to me. :)
273416

Fixed!

[o416]

It is. You are going to want to just slide it to the far right side anyway, because that is where all the brass will try to escape from.

Would look nicer if it covered the whole main body, just sayin :P

[Charlie_Sweden]

What is your nozzle width?

Plain old 0.4 mm, printing on a Prusa i3Mk2s.

[TylerR]

Plain old 0.4 mm, printing on a Prusa i3Mk2s.

The wall there is thicker then .4mm, and I have not heard of issues printing it before. That being said I just changed the small and large to be more in line with the extra large, so the threads do not run up in to that thinner part. I posted it for you to try.

[Anuccite]

TylerR, GWS, o416.... Great work!... I built my original Ammomike Bullet feeder somewhere early 2019.....

I must say I really like the improvements you guys have made!

I look forward Printing the Larger version, using the Prox sensor.....

I will post results as I move forward...

Again GREAT updates to a great project!

[o416]

Good question. One has a further reach, is more expensive but should cover all needs. it is also quite a bit shorter. The other one is cheaper. Mine should be arriving tomorrow, so I will be in a better place to compare the two more objectively.

Edited to add for those who care: One is made in the USA (Maybe? who knows these days?), the other China.

So are we going with 8mm or 14mm as a recommendation?

[Anuccite]

I also Just caught myself up on a year of this thread!

I need a beer!

[TylerR]

So are we going with 8mm or 14mm as a recommendation?

14mm. Mine still is not here. Saying tomorrow now :(

[GWS]

14mm. Mine still is not here. Saying tomorrow now :(

14mm? Measuring what? I've seen 8 and 12 and mines 18mm, but I haven't found your 14 yet. Or are you talking about detecting distance?

[o416]

14mm? Measuring what? I've seen 8 and 12 and mines 18mm, but I haven't found your 12 yet. Or are you talking about detecting distance?

Yes, its is a detecting range of 14mm.

[stlmacgeek]

TylerR the downloads link seems to be broken. It says file not found. Documents link is still working though.

I am considering printing your larger version to use as a case feeder for my new Lee APP. Been using it with my GolluB case feeder by setting the Lee App up next to my Dillon. But I think it needs it’s own case feeder. So I wanted to take a look at your files to figure out what to print. Thanks.

[GWS]

Yes, its is a detecting range of 14mm.

Now I know why it's so pricey.....don't stand too close to it.....:)

[Anuccite]

1st Piece a little stringing... But I haven't used this Filament in a year.....

Amazon Basic PLA... I had to de-humidify it as it was very brittle.... I will be using a new roll when I print anything big

273502

[djinnpb]

Finally got the long (extra large) spring in and definitely a higher quality spring. But now I'm so unsure of how long I want it to be and where to cut it :O

[GWS]

My case feeder is almost done and will collated .223 and .308 perfectly, but the .223 required one more little part....an extension to lower the proximity sensor a little. Seems the .223's stopped fine but since the cases are small it allowed one too many in the stack and raised the stack into the turning plate a quarter inch. Lowering the switch a little fixed it, so now it collates both equally well with no other parts change except for the .308 specific and .223 specific turning plates.

Tomorrow morning I will start the 2 hours extension print.....then once done, I will post a couple of running vids of the collator working those two calibers. Finally!

[Charlie_Sweden]

The wall there is thicker then .4mm, and I have not heard of issues printing it before. That being said I just changed the small and large to be more in line with the extra large, so the threads do not run up in to that thinner part. I posted it for you to try.

Thanks alot TylerR, the download link seems broken though. Looking forward to try the new design when able to download.

[Anuccite]

This link will get you there

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV

[TylerR]

Sensor says it is out for delivery. We will soon know how well it works.

[TylerR]

My case feeder is almost done and will collated .223 and .308 perfectly, but the .223 required one more little part....an extension to lower the proximity sensor a little. Seems the .223's stopped fine but since the cases are small it allowed one too many in the stack and raised the stack into the turning plate a quarter inch. Lowering the switch a little fixed it, so now it collates both equally well with no other parts change except for the .308 specific and .223 specific turning plates.

Tomorrow morning I will start the 2 hours extension print.....then once done, I will post a couple of running vids of the collator working those two calibers. Finally!

Looking forward to the video.

[TylerR]

Thanks alot TylerR, the download link seems broken though. Looking forward to try the new design when able to download.

Not sure what happened with the link but it should be fixed now.

[nubrun]

So I have been reading through this thread and am impressed with the thoroughness. One question I have though, and it may be covered somewhere in the 150 pages, is what is the “minimum” level of 3D printer recommended to accomplish this. I see several references to $200 printers, but the ones I see are all pretty small at that price point. If I’m a 3D printing noob, is there a recommendation for a printer?

[TylerR]

So I have been reading through this thread and am impressed with the thoroughness. One question I have though, and it may be covered somewhere in the 150 pages, is what is the “minimum” level of 3D printer recommended to accomplish this. I see several references to $200 printers, but the ones I see are all pretty small at that price point. If I’m a 3D printing noob, is there a recommendation for a printer?

Ender 3 is a good starting printer. I suggest Ender 5 for just a little more money since the bed only moves on the z axis.

[Rage 01]

So I have been reading through this thread and am impressed with the thoroughness. One question I have though, and it may be covered somewhere in the 150 pages, is what is the “minimum” level of 3D printer recommended to accomplish this. I see several references to $200 printers, but the ones I see are all pretty small at that price point. If I’m a 3D printing noob, is there a recommendation for a printer?

I agree with with Tyler, the Ender 3 V2 is the best bang for your buck. With a bed size of 225x225x 220 high it will print any of the collator parts with easy. If you are looking for something a little bigger then yes the Ender 5 is a good choice as well.

[Rage 01]

Anyone else with Filament types before I send the file to Tyler?

[TylerR]

I agree with with Tyler, the Ender 3 V2 is the best bang for your buck. With a bed size of 225x225x 220 high it will print any of the collator parts with easy. If you are looking for something a little bigger then yes the Ender 5 is a good choice as well.

If you want to go real big the Ender 5 Plus is 350mm x 350mm x 400mm

[TylerR]

Anyone else with Filament types before I send the file to Tyler?

You can always drop it in the shared documents folder too. Then people can add new ones.

[Rage 01]

Perfect I will do that a little later.

[o416]

Thanks for putting the larger wallextender in the dropbox. Much appreciated :) I will print it soon and post a pic.

[GWS]

I can send you one for The Zyltech Green & Blue Satin composite, but I'm up to my behind in crocodiles until this evening....guess you can add it later.

[Rage 01]

I can add it anytime. No big hurry.

[Charlie_Sweden]

Not sure what happened with the link but it should be fixed now.

The new file printed just fine. :)
273574

[Charlie_Sweden]

I'm designing a controlbox to be mounted on the pole that the dillon casefeeder mounts to.
273587

[TylerR]

So did some testing with my new sensor, and I can't say it detects any further then the other one did. Kind of annoying. So I went back to the drawing board with the drop tubes themselves. The 6mm tube now only has 2mm between the sensor and the bullet column. I am uploading it as a new version (v1.2.8)

So with that said, just about any 18mm dia. sensor with at least 8mm detection should work. One thing I do like about my new one is it is much shorter and compact.

[Macscotts56]

So did some testing with my new sensor, and I can't say it detects any further then the other one did. Kind of annoying. So I went back to the drawing board with the drop tubes themselves. The 6mm tube now only has 2mm between the sensor and the bullet column. I am uploading it as a new version (v1.2.8)

So with that said, just about any 18mm dia. sensor with at least 8mm detection should work. One thing I do like about my new one is it is much shorter and compact.

Why have material between the sensor and the bullet at all? Is it to just have a flat surface to stop the sensor at a fixed distance? Why not use a hatch or multiple slot pattern to remove material and possibly have a better chance of eddy currents being disturbed and tripping the sensor. We've used these in some of our instruments at work and the only way to get a solid signal is to have no material in front of the sensor. I know it works so don't take my suggestions the wrong way, simple solutions are the best, and removing material to get to a 2mm wall thickness is really simple.

[TylerR]

Why have material between the sensor and the bullet at all? Is it to just have a flat surface to stop the sensor at a fixed distance? Why not use a hatch or multiple slot pattern to remove material and possibly have a better chance of eddy currents being disturbed and tripping the sensor. We've used these in some of our instruments at work and the only way to get a solid signal is to have no material in front of the sensor. I know it works so don't take my suggestions the wrong way, simple solutions are the best, and removing material to get to a 2mm wall thickness is really simple.

These inductive sensors don't care about non metallic material in between, just the distance to, and the size and shape of the metal. The bullet column can't be completely open. I have tested the latest and it works flawlessly.

[Macscotts56]

These inductive sensors don't care about non metallic material in between, just the distance to, and the size and shape of the metal. The bullet column can't be completely open. I have tested the latest and it works flawlessly.

Glad to hear it works with the reduced wall thickness. Simple is better.

[o416]

So did some testing with my new sensor, and I can't say it detects any further then the other one did. Kind of annoying. So I went back to the drawing board with the drop tubes themselves. The 6mm tube now only has 2mm between the sensor and the bullet column. I am uploading it as a new version (v1.2.8)

So with that said, just about any 18mm dia. sensor with at least 8mm detection should work. One thing I do like about my new one is it is much shorter and compact.

So 18mm recommendation with 8mm as the cutoff. Add that to the manual?

[TylerR]

So 18mm recommendation with 8mm as the cutoff. Add that to the manual?

Yes, that will work. May want to mention it also needs to be a normally closed (NC) Inductive sensor.

I also added another small electronics box for using the proximity sensor. I shamelessly sole GWS's idea with the slide on lid. Mine is designed for people who want to use jst, xt30 and 12v barrel connectors. It has standoffs for the board but really only the front two can be accessed with a screw driver, which makes it plenty secure. GWS's is better suited for direct soldering.

[Anuccite]

So did some testing with my new sensor, and I can't say it detects any further then the other one did. Kind of annoying. So I went back to the drawing board with the drop tubes themselves. The 6mm tube now only has 2mm between the sensor and the bullet column. I am uploading it as a new version (v1.2.8)

So with that said, just about any 18mm dia. sensor with at least 8mm detection should work. One thing I do like about my new one is it is much shorter and compact.

Have you updated the rest of the drop tubes? I was just getting ready to print a 9mm one

[TylerR]

Have you updated the rest of the drop tubes? I was just getting ready to print a 9mm one

Yes. Just make sure to re-download the latest. Sometimes I re-post with the same release number if the changes are very minor.

[GWS]

Hey. I read through the the entire thread and familiarized myself with the manual. I have talked to Tyler on a different forum a little bit. It seems like most people are using this on a Dillon press. Except it looks like you are using it on an RCBS press. I want to make one for my hornady lnl ap but I don’t really understand how it will “interface” with my press. Did you have to design new parts in order to get this working with your press?

Thanks.

Do you have a Hornady Case Feeder or Bullet feeder installed? If you have a case feeder, I'm assuming you are wanting to "interface" with a bullet feeding version of the collator......so what follows is based on that.

First you have to decide what "feeder die" you will use.....DAA's, Hornady's, or a printed version TylerR created here. That die screws into your LnL adaptor then plugs into your press topside. Then it's just a matter of tying the collator output to that by downtubes, springtubes, whatever you can conjure up. Somewhere in that output you need a switch to turn off the collator when your downtube is full. Bullet stacking is important to some feeder dies, to provide weight behind the feeding bullet to make the die work correctly. Others don't require much weight, just depends on what you decide to use.

TylerR and crew have made downtubes with the off switch fairly close to to press, allowing a short stack before the switch turns the collator off. They are not made to fit Dillons per say, they are for certain bullet feeding dies......some for the homemade printed ones. TylerR is the best source of info on them.

Me, naturally being a perverted divergent, use the older system of filling the whole tube (or springtube) Dillon, RCBS and Hornady case feeder style before the switch turns it off. That means putting a switch high, just under the collator, vs low just above a short stack on top of the feed die.

Now the OTHER interface: the mount for your bullet feeder on your bench is whole nuther thing. Some of the Dillon guys have their bullet feeders mounted to the side of their case feeders. Others mount them to poles, and I think TylerR has a pole mount you can print. I made a horizontal steel tubing rail that I had a nephew weld for me. Your mount will be individual. I've seen Hornady user setups bolt on a mount to their case feeder pole or just a pipe with a pipe flange to the bench.....this is very individual.

I'm going to post this to the forum, because others will have information and input too.

[TylerR]

Do you have a Hornady Case Feeder or Bullet feeder installed? If you have a case feeder, I'm assuming you are wanting to "interface" with a bullet feeding version of the collator......so what follows is based on that.

First you have to decide what "feeder die" you will use.....DAA's, Hornady's, or a printed version TylerR created here. That die screws into your LnL adaptor then plugs into your press topside. Then it's just a matter of tying the collator output to that by downtubes, springtubes, whatever you can conjure up. Somewhere in that output you need a switch to turn off the collator when your downtube is full. Bullet stacking is important to some feeder dies, to provide weight behind the feeding bullet to make the die work correctly. Others don't require much weight, just depends on what you decide to use.

TylerR and crew have made downtubes with the off switch fairly close to to press, allowing a short stack before the switch turns the collator off. They are not made to fit Dillons per say, they are for certain bullet feeding dies......some for the homemade printed ones. TylerR is the best source of info on them.

Me, naturally being a perverted divergent, use the older system of filling the whole tube (or springtube) Dillon, RCBS and Hornady case feeder style before the switch turns it off. That means putting a switch high, just under the collator, vs low just above a short stack on top of the feed die.

Now the OTHER interface: the mount for your bullet feeder on your bench is whole nuther thing. Some of the Dillon guys have their bullet feeders mounted to the side of their case feeders. Others mount them to poles, and I think TylerR has a pole mount you can print. I made a horizontal steel tubing rail that I had a nephew weld for me. Your mount will be individual. I've seen Hornady user setups bolt on a mount to their case feeder pole or just a pipe with a pipe flange to the bench.....this is very individual.

I'm going to post this to the forum, because others will have information and input too.

Excellent summary GWS!

[GWS]

And yet I failed to answer his last question....did I design new parts for my press. That's a yes, but again, anything I designed could be used on any press, with the exception of an upgrade to RCBS's case feeder shuttle which I found too limiting .... it works, but only if you crank things slow....it only did 9mm pistol well. It threw .223 rifle across the room, base first. So I added this little green extension to that tiny "V" block they used for pushing cases.....and that's the only part I've made that is machine specific.


https://youtu.be/DQZMazLvYzM

As for bullet feeding dies, I use Hornady Pistol bullet feeder dies, and for RIFLE, I use RCBS's new tube bullet feeders. Which are awesome. Some have used RCBS's pistol feeder dies, but I didn't like the plastic inserts held together with rubber bands. The new rifle ball bearing operating dies are another thing....they are awesome, and come with "M" neck sizers.....but they are pricey over $100.

[GWS]

Almost, but the CASE collator is not quite there........Question.......I'm down to the last little pieces to print to finally get my case collator to the ammo production line. I have problems with soldiers.....so these last pieces are what's needed to knock them over. (they DON'T act nice....they jamb the outet.....even slow). So I have the Long Sweeper downloaded.....do I need the regular sweeper and flipper too? IOW's do they work combined or separate ...... wasn't sure from the video?

[TylerR]

Almost, but the CASE collator is not quite there........Question.......I'm down to the last little pieces to print to finally get my case collator to the ammo production line. I have problems with soldiers.....so these last pieces are what's needed to knock them over. (they DON'T act nice....they jamb the outet.....even slow). So I have the Long Sweeper downloaded.....do I need the regular sweeper and flipper too? IOW's do they work combined or separate ...... wasn't sure from the video?

I assume you mean the longer rifle cases coming up 3 all in a row? If so you want the long sweeper. You mount the sweeper by pulling back on the flipper and inserting it in, so it disables the flipper.

[o416]

Thanks for putting the larger wallextender in the dropbox. Much appreciated :) I will print it soon and post a pic.

The wall extender is a perfect fit, thank you Tyler!

Here it is installed:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JnYDipOmP0gsyWMuAKqUm5H8AcCD4Gxi/view?usp=sharing

Looks so nice and it even printed better than the last one; far less stringing.

[GWS]

That's what I guessed but didn't know for sure. The Sweeper is a plug of sorts sticking out far enough to chop heads off.....that works. Thanks. Better get to printing.....


The wall extender is a perfect fit, thank you Tyler!

Here it is installed:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JnYDipOmP0gsyWMuAKqUm5H8AcCD4Gxi/view?usp=sharing

Looks so nice and it even printed better than the last one; far less stringing.

Looks like you're building Darth Vader's Helmet....improved. :)

[TylerR]

Being I’m an electrical illiterate I’ll pass this to GWS. But I have the same proximity switch he recommends and it’s working fine with the McMaster motor. Doesn’t mean Im right however...hahahahaha

I must be missing something here. The switch is rated to 300mA. The motor is rated at 1.3A full load. I finally got mine wired up, and I am using the same exact wiring method GWS posted. But when I try to run the motor with the sensor, it just goes click click and does not actually move. As soon as I remove the switch out of the equation, the motor works perfect. I know the switch is wired correct also because If I swap an LED bulb for the motor it turns on and off perfectly. I would think a relay would be needed to convert the low amperage switch up to the higher amperage circuit the motor requires.

Someone help me out here please.