Making that Bullet Collator

[djinnpb]

TylerR, sanity check here. Have you had any issues with the plates binding or not turning well with a looser shaft size? I wonder primarily since I've printed a ton out now and really dig the loose not digging to to get them out like the AM ones. But made me wonder since you likely have testing 496 different plates :P

// SHAFT OPTIONS (STANDARD)
shaft_hole=10.1; //shaft hole
shaft_slot_length=29;
shaft_slot_width=5.0;

Also the best part, printing your 300bo plate again. Calibrated the cr10 with a 20mm cube and the plate ended up coming out a touch too large in diameter (maybe 0.5.. enough to bind with just turning it in there by hand) so printing it on my well tuned ender3. I hope to not end up with a plate graveyard like you have :P

[o416]

Does the Drop_Hole_Adapter attach to the Spring_Adapter_Large?

The drop hole adapter seems pretty long to attach to the other part.

[djinnpb]

Does the Drop_Hole_Adapter attach to the Spring_Adapter_Large?

The drop hole adapter seems pretty long to attach to the other part.

It's more like the Spring_Adapter_Large attaches to the Drop_Hole_Adapter since the Drop_Hole_Adapter is attached to the main_body. It screws in but isn't flush and does look longer.. But fits.

[TylerR]

Is this the extra large spring?
https://www.doublealpha.biz/ca/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring

How much larger is it than the large here?
https://www.doublealpha.biz/ca/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor

Yes, it is about 13.5mm ID instead of 13mmID, so it handles .45 brass nice, and just about everything else down to 9mm.

[TylerR]

TylerR, sanity check here. Have you had any issues with the plates binding or not turning well with a looser shaft size? I wonder primarily since I've printed a ton out now and really dig the loose not digging to to get them out like the AM ones. But made me wonder since you likely have testing 496 different plates :P

// SHAFT OPTIONS (STANDARD)
shaft_hole=10.1; //shaft hole
shaft_slot_length=29;
shaft_slot_width=5.0;

Also the best part, printing your 300bo plate again. Calibrated the cr10 with a 20mm cube and the plate ended up coming out a touch too large in diameter (maybe 0.5.. enough to bind with just turning it in there by hand) so printing it on my well tuned ender3. I hope to not end up with a plate graveyard like you have :P

Yes, if there is too much slop on the shaft/pin connection if could cause excessive movement in the plate when rotating. The stock settings work well for the 8mm motor shaft and pin. If you want to tighten up the tolerance just make the changes and generate the plate.

[TylerR]

It's more like the Spring_Adapter_Large attaches to the Drop_Hole_Adapter since the Drop_Hole_Adapter is attached to the main_body. It screws in but isn't flush and does look longer.. But fits.

Excatly right. And it is longer to increase reliability. Gives the bullet/brass more time to straighten out before hitting the spring which can cause stoppages. Just about every detail change I made was for a reason, after many hours of fiddling with stuff.

[o416]

Excatly right. And it is longer to increase reliability. Gives the bullet/brass more time to straighten out before hitting the spring which can cause stoppages. Just about every detail change I made was for a reason, after many hours of fiddling with stuff.

Thanks Tyler!

I just calibrated my printer because I was having fitting issues. I use a direct drive extruder and the chassis was loose. I also set my E-steps for all motors and I am getting stuff accurate down to the hundredth of a mm.

Words can't convey my gratitude for all your hard work man.

[GWS]

DesignSpark! There IS a way to modify STL files, afterall.

I decided to spend the last few days trying to learn it. I can tell you only that I still have a little hair left after the hairpulling temper tantrums. That cad program goes against everything I ever learned about cad, and I've been using Autocad professionally for 40 plus years.......perhaps THAT may have been my biggest problem....."engrainment"? I find it really hard to use, but really powerful, if you can figure out it's vast maze. Forget using more than 3 or four keys on the keyboard, it's "mouse" software.....mostly.

To test modifing a STL file I decided to tweak my small A.M. Nose Down .45 plate which does everything different from other nose down bullet plates....requiring a baffle over it rather than DAA patented ramp. But I thought a "tweak" that added a plastic version of my train derailing rod, and a TylerR style handle over the hex center would be easy. HAHAHAHAHA! Says the now slightly mad cad pro. But anyway, finally did it. here's a screenshot of the modified plate. As a last final touch, I was going to add another vertical 180 degrees from the other, just to see if I could.....Hell no! Would have taken me 5 minutes in autocad.....but Autocad doesn't touch STL files....and once DesignSpark changes it back to a solid, it's not a bit compatible with Autocad's dxf or dwg files.

271453

I'd still have my brains intact if I had just done this on my original dwg file, and it would have taken at most 15 minutes, but the purpose was to try modifying a STL for which a dwg file isn't available. It can be done.

[TylerR]

DesignSpark! There IS a way to modify STL files, afterall.

I decided to spend the last few days trying to learn it. I can tell you only that I still have a little hair left after the hairpulling temper tantrums. That cad program goes against everything I ever learned about cad, and I've been using Autocad professionally for 40 plus years.......perhaps THAT may have been my biggest problem....."engrainment"? I find it really hard to use, but really powerful, if you can figure out it's vast maze. Forget using more than 3 or four keys on the keyboard, it's "mouse" software.....mostly.

To test modifing a STL file I decided to tweak my small A.M. Nose Down .45 plate which does everything different from other nose down bullet plates....requiring a baffle over it rather than DAA patented ramp. But I thought a "tweak" that added a plastic version of my train derailing rod, and a TylerR style handle over the hex center would be easy. HAHAHAHAHA! Says the now slightly mad cad pro. But anyway, finally did it. here's a screenshot of the modified plate. As a last final touch, I was going to add another vertical 180 degrees from the other, just to see if I could.....Hell no! Would have taken me 5 minutes in autocad.....but Autocad doesn't touch STL files....and once DesignSpark changes it back to a solid, it's not a bit compatible with Autocad's dxf or dwg files.

I'd still have my brains intact if I had just done this on my original dwg file, and it would have taken at most 15 minutes, but the purpose was to try modifying a STL for which a dwg file isn't available. It can be done.

Glad to hear you had some success! I have to say, I wonder if the reason you find it so challenging as a 3D cad expert is the same reason why I find it so easy as a beginner. Having everything mouse and menu based allowed me to pick it up much better than a lot of the other free programs I tried. And it is pretty powerful. I still have not found anything that I wanted to do that I wasn't able to.

I am still struggling with working a good solution for these 230gn cast 300BO boolits. I originally tried just replicating what I see in these other videos, but kept running in to other issues. Especially since whatever I come up with needs to work either nose up or down, since I want to use it for sizing. I am getting close though.

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler!

I just calibrated my printer because I was having fitting issues. I use a direct drive extruder and the chassis was loose. I also set my E-steps for all motors and I am getting stuff accurate down to the hundredth of a mm.

Words can't convey my gratitude for all your hard work man.

Glad to hear you got your machine dialed in. I am still hoping to see some more video success stories once you guys get these things spinning! I love watching other peoples videos.

[GWS]

Glad to hear you had some success! I have to say, I wonder if the reason you find it so challenging as a 3D cad expert is the same reason why I find it so easy as a beginner. Having everything mouse and menu based allowed me to pick it up much better than a lot of the other free programs I tried. And it is pretty powerful. I still have not found anything that I wanted to do that I wasn't able to.

I am still struggling with working a good solution for these 230gn cast 300BO boolits. I originally tried just replicating what I see in these other videos, but kept running in to other issues. Especially since whatever I come up with needs to work either nose up or down, since I want to use it for sizing. I am getting close though.

I'm sure your lack of Autocad experience helps a lot. Little things drive me crazy, for instance in Autocad you have snap features you can set before you even start a line command so that you can snap entities exactly where you want them and it stays there...no guessing or magnified eyeballs necessary. Snaps to intersections, endpoints, midpoints, centers, quads of circle circumference, tangents in 2D, and snaps to faces, edges at the very least in 3d would prevent doing it over and over and over. In Design Spark there's some.....you get itty bitty circles old guys can barely see, and the mouse often won't stay still long enough to catch one....and the hold on it very limited. And so you miss a lot.

Then there is no "stretch command" to snap it in......thought there was in just a few modes where you can...... Once, I thought I found a stretch command, turned out was actually just moving both ends.....not a help when you want to stretch....so you erase the line and try again.....and again. That's irksome!

Sorry you're having hell with your bullet plate. Post a screen shot of the latest incarnation, and share the issues you've run into. sometimes two heads....can save time and effort.

[TylerR]

Request for Tyler . And, this is by no means pressing as I already have one but your design seems to be working so much better for me. How hard would it be to make a die for .32 acp. You can see the specs above and also to add to that my lead is .314 diameter. Again, not a huge deal if you can’t .
Joe

What is the outside case mouth diameter in mm?

[lablover]

What is the outside case mouth diameter in mm?

New cases are 8.40 mm
After sizing and expanded 8.47 mm
Fired 8.52 mm

[TylerR]

New cases are 8.40 mm
After sizing and expanded 8.47 mm
Fired 8.52 mm

Just whipped one up. Disclaimer. I have not printed or tested it. But it does follow the same template as all the others. Inner diameter of die is 8.3mm. That gives you about .4mm of tolerance, so with a well calibrated printer you should have no issues with the bullets passing through. you have bearing heights at 7, 9, and 11mm high, so one of those should work with your different sized bullets. Use the latest 8mm drop tube.

Its posted.

[OldManJ]

With the holes for ball bearings in the dropper, how do you determine which hole to put the bearing balls in? I am assuming you must put two?

[lablover]

Just whipped one up. Disclaimer. I have not printed or tested it. But it does follow the same template as all the others. Inner diameter of die is 8.3mm. That gives you about .4mm of tolerance, so with a well calibrated printer you should have no issues with the bullets passing through. you have bearing heights at 7, 9, and 11mm high, so one of those should work with your different sized bullets. Use the latest 8mm drop tube.

Its posted.

Can’t thank you enough. I’ll get it printed the next few days and report back.

[TylerR]

Can’t thank you enough. I’ll get it printed the next few days and report back.

Not sure if you printed this or not yet, but I made a minor tweak, so if not go ahead and download it again.

[TylerR]

With the holes for ball bearings in the dropper, how do you determine which hole to put the bearing balls in? I am assuming you must put two?

Use two 3.5mm bearings. Top of bullet must be above bearings once it falls in to the case. So figure bullet should be at least 2mm taller then bearing height. Lower holes will work for all bullets, but the higher you go the more the bullet will fall and the further it will set in the case mouth.

[lablover]

Not sure if you printed this or not yet, but I made a minor tweak, so if not go ahead and download it again.

Not printed yet, will grab the new one shortly

New one on the printer now! Wooohooooo

[TylerR]

Sorry you're having hell with your bullet plate. Post a screen shot of the latest incarnation, and share the issues you've run into. sometimes two heads....can save time and effort.

I am getting very close. Have a good working version of nose up feeding. Now have to finalize nose down. Honestly the hardest part was the changes to the collator plate in scad to get the really long bullets to drop in reliably. And of course that solution caused other things to not work quite right. My plate graveyard has definitely grown over the last week, but feeling my latest version is the final. (Knocks on wood....)

Here is where its at right now. As you can tell, vastly different from where I started.

271564

Here are the settings to make all this happen:

description="Long Rifle Bullet (#11)";
caliber=7.82;
collator_plate_h=22;
isLongRifleBullet = true;
addRamps = true;
addRidges = true;
ridgeAlternate = false;
ridgeHeight = 3.0;
ridgeLength = 10;

[o416]

Hey Tyler,

How much tolerance is there in the drop tubes? For example, the 9mm tube can be used for sized bullets (.356) but what about oversized? I want to use the same drop tube for my Dillon XL750 and Lee APP.

Just wondering if the oversized ones would get stuck or if I should just use 10mm for both.

Thx!

[TylerR]

Hey Tyler,

How much tolerance is there in the drop tubes? For example, the 9mm tube can be used for sized bullets (.356) but what about oversized? I want to use the same drop tube for my Dillon XL750 and Lee APP.

Just wondering if the oversized ones would get stuck or if I should just use 10mm for both.

Thx!

This is something that has changed over time, but currently here are the actual sizes:

13 - 13.2mm
12 - 12.2mm
11 - 11.2mm
10 - 10.5mm
9 - 9.5mm
8 - 8.3mm
7 - 7.3mm
6 - 6.3mm

.359 is still only 9.1186mm so with a well calibrated printer they should fit. I also use a little sanding or acetone to remove the print layers that tend to hang things up if I need to.

Of course moving up to the 10mm would probably work fine as well. I do that when sizing powder coated bullets cause sometime they have a ridge on the bottom, so I use the 13mm drop tube for my .45's

[noacess]

I fixed my printer over the weekend and finally got my base and some of the other parts printed out. I've got my first plate printing now. Looking forward to seeing if TylerR can get the big 300BLK bullets working!

271568

[lablover]

I fixed my printer over the weekend and finally got my base and some of the other parts printed out. I've got my first plate printing now. Looking forward to seeing if TylerR can get the big 300BLK bullets working!

271568

Looking good, amazing what a little printer tuning will do, did mine last weekend and world of difference. I’m going to have to go back in these threads and find that motor. Might be making another here shortly.

[TylerR]

I fixed my printer over the weekend and finally got my base and some of the other parts printed out. I've got my first plate printing now. Looking forward to seeing if TylerR can get the big 300BLK bullets working!


Would like to hear some feedback on that motor you are using. Oh and I will get them working one way or another! I should have video of nose up later tonight.

[TylerR]

Looking good, amazing what a little printer tuning will do, did mine last weekend and world of difference. I’m going to have to go back in these threads and find that motor. Might be making another here shortly.

That motor is here:

https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

I just have to throw this out there, but I am waiting for someone to volunteer to collate all of this info in one place so we can post it somewhere. I am too busy designing new stuff so I just don't have time for it, but it sure would be cool to have.

[lablover]

That motor is here:

https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

I just have to throw this out there, but I am waiting for someone to volunteer to collate all of this info in one place so we can post it somewhere. I am too busy designing new stuff so I just don't have time for it, but it sure would be cool to have.

Thanks Buddy. I’m also interested in that motor. Might just order it and give it a try. I agree finding someone well versed in writing would be a good deal for organizing all this. Me, no way. I can’t spell. Lmao

[noacess]

Not that size is everything but you can see the significant difference between the one TylerR linked and the old JHY-370. Once my small bullet plate is finished printing I'll throw in a bunch of 147gr 9mm and see how it handles them. I'm not sure what the best proper way to do a "stress" test is but I figure if I fill it with bullets and it works that's good enough for me.

I'd say the biggest obvious con to this motor is you lose access to the back mounting holes so if you plan to use those, you're out of luck with this motor. Speaking of mount, I still need to figure out how I want to do that....


271572

[TylerR]

Not that size is everything but you can see the significant difference between the one TylerR linked and the old JHY-370. Once my small bullet plate is finished printing I'll throw in a bunch of 147gr 9mm and see how it handles them. I'm not sure what the best proper way to do a "stress" test is but I figure if I fill it with bullets and it works that's good enough for me.

I'd say the biggest obvious con to this motor is you lose access to the back mounting holes so if you plan to use those, you're out of luck with this motor. Speaking of mount, I still need to figure out how I want to do that....



I wonder if it would make more sense to angle the motor towards the electronics box side. That would free up the back and the right side for mounting options.

[lablover]

I wonder if it would make more sense to angle the motor towards the electronics box side. That would free up the back and the right side for mounting options.

Now that sounds like a good plan. Can it be done without making another modification to the file? I’m betting no

[noacess]

I wonder if it would make more sense to angle the motor towards the electronics box side. That would free up the back and the right side for mounting options.

I can't think of any cons to this other than having to reprint the base if I decide I need to mount from the back! I think at present I might try the dillon case feeder hang approach and see how that goes. I'm in the planning phases if building a new bench so I have some thinking to to do. Keep up the great work!

[GWS]

That motor is here:

https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

I just have to throw this out there, but I am waiting for someone to volunteer to collate all of this info in one place so we can post it somewhere. I am too busy designing new stuff so I just don't have time for it, but it sure would be cool to have.

What exactly do you mean by "all this info"? from page one or from what exactly?

And if you had time how would you collate it? By project? By timeline? By what? Have you given it some serious thought?

For example: this page (before this post) I saved to Word, then reduced it in size a bit by erasing the repetitious lines that aren't important...but with the pictures it's still too big to insert here as an attachment. But I'll add it to your cloud location, temporarily.....to see if it works. Obviously, many pages would need to be zipped. But in this form it could be divided and edited by subject.

[TylerR]

What exactly do you mean by "all this info"? from page one or from what exactly?

And if you had time how would you collate it? By project? By timeline? By what? Have you given it some serious thought?

For example: this page (before this post) I saved to Word, then reduced it in size a bit by erasing the repetitious lines that aren't important...but with the pictures it's still too big to insert here as an attachment. But I'll add it to your cloud location, temporarily.....to see if it works. Obviously, many pages would need to be zipped. But in this form it could be divided and edited by subject.

I am talking more just a guide that would incorporate all the current motor options, parts lists, known bullet and brass compatibility, assembling feed dies, etc..... The stuff that there are repeat questions on. It would be a lot of work to put it together, but would be useful to people who come here new and don't want to read and digest the entire thread (which I feel they should do anyway).

[o416]

I wonder if it would make more sense to angle the motor towards the electronics box side. That would free up the back and the right side for mounting options.

Aren't the back and right already free for the ETZGMP38? Or are you talking about the other motors that stick out?

[Andar]

I wonder if it would make more sense to angle the motor towards the electronics box side. That would free up the back and the right side for mounting options.

I'm also using the JGY-370 motor (Bought the 24v 2rpm 18kg/cm version) and bought a couple of them to save on shipping times when I wanted more as well as to set up a case feeding version right beside it (I don't have the Dillon case feeder). As you're well aware, since the motor is so long it interferes with the back mounting option. Are you able to rotate the mounting holes 45 degrees so it will not interfere with any of the mounting options as stated above or should I just drill holes myself? So far I've only printed one body, and it was the original AM version, so I haven't wasted anything yet since I'll be able to get away with just one of the feeders using the side mount.

Also, did you make a "normal" sized body at all or did you just make larger versions? It would be great if I didn't have to try to edit the stl to shift them over.


In other news, the spring adapters I'm working on is taking a hell of a lot longer than I thought to find something that works without damaging the spring. Might just have to make it simpler and just cut the belled/flared end off the spring and thread it in like all the other designs. If this last version doesn't work, I'm taking out my cutters. Edit: Time to bust out the cutters.

[Andar]

Aren't the back and right already free for the ETZGMP38? Or are you talking about the other motors that stick out?

JGY-370 motor. Post #2288 shows the issue.

[TylerR]

I'm also using the JGY-370 motor (Bought the 24v 2rpm 18kg/cm version) and bought a couple of them to save on shipping times when I wanted more as well as to set up a case feeding version right beside it (I don't have the Dillon case feeder). As you're well aware, since the motor is so long it interferes with the back mounting option. Are you able to rotate the mounting holes 45 degrees so it will not interfere with any of the mounting options as stated above or should I just drill holes myself? So far I've only printed one body, and it was the original AM version, so I haven't wasted anything yet since I'll be able to get away with just one of the feeders using the side mount.

Also, did you make a "normal" sized body at all or did you just make larger versions? It would be great if I didn't have to try to edit the stl to shift them over.


In other news, the spring adapters I'm working on is taking a hell of a lot longer than I thought to find something that works without damaging the spring. Might just have to make it simpler and just cut the belled/flared end off the spring and thread it in like all the other designs. If this last version doesn't work, I'm taking out my cutters.

The JGY370 motor should not interfere with mounting on my larger feeder. It's not that long. The 634JS motor shown above does though. I am going to rotate the motor on the 634JS body so the motor goes to the electronics box side.

[Andar]

The JGY370 motor should not interfere with mounting on my larger feeder. It's not that long. The 634JS motor shown above does though. I am going to rotate the motor on the 634JS body so the motor goes to the electronics box side.

Awesome, thanks. I'll print that one out and keep note of which and how many bullets I can reliably feed with it once I figure out how best to mount everything.

[GWS]

.....I'd say the biggest obvious con to this motor is you lose access to the back mounting holes so if you plan to use those, you're out of luck with this motor. Speaking of mount, I still need to figure out how I want to do that....



The JGY370 motor should not interfere with mounting on my larger feeder. It's not that long. The 634JS motor shown above does though. I am going to rotate the motor on the 634JS body so the motor goes to the electronics box side.

The JGY370 motor I used on the small base did indeed interfere with the back holes.....but I didn't really care since I preferred to mount mine from both sides. Personally I feel more secure with that mount especially with a lot of heavy .45 acps in the collator. Even with my next collator (big base), I still plan to use the side ones.....I was born a divergent, I guess.;)

https://i.postimg.cc/PxMQwZfY/IMG-3617.jpg

[GWS]

I am talking more just a guide that would incorporate all the current motor options, parts lists, known bullet and brass compatibility, assembling feed dies, etc..... The stuff that there are repeat questions on. It would be a lot of work to put it together, but would be useful to people who come here new and don't want to read and digest the entire thread (which I feel they should do anyway).

Yes, I agree that anyone doing these prints ought to read it all.....but at the same time.....it would be extremely useful to have a guide found with one click. I can take the time....won't be overnight because it'll take a while to assimilate and organize it. But being semi retired.... meaning some days I stay at work only an hour or two....I think I can handle it.

So! You have my email, just start sending me whatever you got and I'll organize it.....deal? Then we won't have to repeat repeat repeat. I'll see if I can figure out the best way....maybe some Word, but probably a lot Excel....and/or Publisher too. I used to publish our local gun club newsletter so I'm proficient with that too. Sent your cloud an Excel file to test whether that could be the place for the guide.

[Rage 01]

The JGY370 motor should not interfere with mounting on my larger feeder. It's not that long. The 634JS motor shown above does though. I am going to rotate the motor on the 634JS body so the motor goes to the electronics box side.

How about you just rotate it in between the 2 points. From what it looks in the picture there should be enough room to use both the back side and the control box side if you do that.

[Rage 01]

Yes, I agree that anyone doing these prints ought to read it all.....but at the same time.....it would be extremely useful to have a guide found with one click. I can take the time....won't be overnight because it'll take a while to assimilate and organize it. But being semi retired.... meaning some days I stay at work only an hour or two....I think I can handle it.

So! You have my email, just start sending me whatever you got and I'll organize it.....deal? Then we won't have to repeat repeat repeat. I'll see if I can figure out the best way....maybe some Word, but probably a lot Excel....and/or Publisher too. I used to publish our local gun club newsletter so I'm proficient with that too. Sent your cloud an Excel file to test whether that could be the place for the guide.

You could delegate some of the work.
I would imagine you are going to set it up like chapters in a book?
Motors
Hardware
Electronics
Mounts
Buckets
Ramps

That sort of thing. I would think for 1 person to do this would be a huge undertaking.

Just thinking out loud...

[Andar]

You could delegate some of the work.
I would imagine you are going to set it up like chapters in a book?
Motors
Hardware
Electronics
Mounts
Buckets
Ramps

That sort of thing. I would think for 1 person to do this would be a huge undertaking.

Just thinking out loud...

It would probably be easier to set up a shared spreadsheet on Google drive with all of the parts listed and just have people write in what case or projectile they're using. That way it's not entirely on just one person to collate everything, the community helps out too.
Have it split up in tabs like you said so it's not one garbled mess. You won't need to do a huge writeup of anything except a list of the minimum required parts and/or an example setup for the most common calibres.

[RedlegEd]

I'm also using the JGY-370 motor (Bought the 24v 2rpm 18kg/cm version) and bought a couple of them to save on shipping times when I wanted more as well as to set up a case feeding version right beside it (I don't have the Dillon case feeder). As you're well aware, since the motor is so long it interferes with the back mounting option. Are you able to rotate the mounting holes 45 degrees so it will not interfere with any of the mounting options as stated above or should I just drill holes myself? So far I've only printed one body, and it was the original AM version, so I haven't wasted anything yet since I'll be able to get away with just one of the feeders using the side mount.

Also, did you make a "normal" sized body at all or did you just make larger versions? It would be great if I didn't have to try to edit the stl to shift them over.


In other news, the spring adapters I'm working on is taking a hell of a lot longer than I thought to find something that works without damaging the spring. Might just have to make it simpler and just cut the belled/flared end off the spring and thread it in like all the other designs. If this last version doesn't work, I'm taking out my cutters. Edit: Time to bust out the cutters.
Hi Andar,
You can select to mount the JGY370 at 90°, 180°, or 270°, depending on what you want/need. I opted for 90° to use the rear mount option. You can get the STL if you go back to post #1873. Hope this helps.
Ed
271586

[noacess]

Would like to hear some feedback on that motor you are using. Oh and I will get them working one way or another! I should have video of nose up later tonight.

This morning I filled the feeder with 250 147gr 9mm bullets and it went through all of them without a single hitch at full speed. While this isn't necessarily an indication of long term durability, it certain appears to work great for now!

[TylerR]

How about you just rotate it in between the 2 points. From what it looks in the picture there should be enough room to use both the back side and the control box side if you do that.

I tried to do a 45 degree angle, which I think it what you mean, but then the mounting holes interfere with the slot for the shaft pin. So it has to be at 90 degrees.

[TylerR]

You could delegate some of the work.
I would imagine you are going to set it up like chapters in a book?
Motors
Hardware
Electronics
Mounts
Buckets
Ramps

That sort of thing. I would think for 1 person to do this would be a huge undertaking.

Just thinking out loud...



It would probably be easier to set up a shared spreadsheet on Google drive with all of the parts listed and just have people write in what case or projectile they're using. That way it's not entirely on just one person to collate everything, the community helps out too.
Have it split up in tabs like you said so it's not one garbled mess. You won't need to do a huge writeup of anything except a list of the minimum required parts and/or an example setup for the most common calibres.

I agree with both of these statements. The job is too big for one person to handle. For the most part all of the relevant info is in this thread for a guide. It's just a matter of extracting it and putting it in a usable format. Then we need a spreadsheet (which I did start) that can be updated by people as they determine which combinations of collator plates / slide plates work for different bullet types.

[TylerR]

This morning I filled the feeder with 250 147gr 9mm bullets and it went through all of them without a single hitch at full speed. While this isn't necessarily an indication of long term durability, it certain appears to work great for now!

Well that is great news! Where is the video? :)

[GWS]

I agree with both of these statements. The job is too big for one person to handle. For the most part all of the relevant info is in this thread for a guide. It's just a matter of extracting it and putting it in a usable format. Then we need a spreadsheet (which I did start) that can be updated by people as they determine which combinations of collator plates / slide plates work for different bullet types.

Three problems with that:

1. Say somebody LOVE's Andars build. Duplicating it would be easiest if it were organized under Andar's Build, with all the stuff he downloaded, ordered, printed, and even a spot for videos proving it worked great.

2. Organizing it only under the sections:
Motors
Hardware
Electronics
Mounts
Buckets
Ramps

means that you still have to be asked (over and over) which in the "of the above" was used in Andar's Build or Tyler's .223 case collator build. (that said, I think the above ought to be an option....an index IOW's....so index by components, index by build, by caliber, case or bullet, etc.)

3. It all needs to funnel to one compiler....whether it be me, Andar, TylerR, Rage1 or whom ever......otherwise it's going to turn into an uncoordinated mess. I totally agree with the "more than one" and "too big a job for one" ideas....but the final product needs to funnel to one......and I'm more than happy to follow and help anybody else to be the compiler. :) I volunteered because I feel appreciative to Tyler for what he's done, and feel I ought to contribute and help......only because TylerR sure as hell can't do it all.....he's done more than he shoulda haveta already....and nobody else was jumping forward to volunteer. Any of you younger guys could do this better than me.

[TylerR]

Three problems with that:

1. Say somebody LOVE's Andars build. Duplicating it would be easiest if it were organized under Andar's Build, with all the stuff he downloaded, ordered, printed, and even a spot for videos proving it worked great.

2. Organizing it only under the sections:
Motors
Hardware
Electronics
Mounts
Buckets
Ramps

means that you still have to be asked (over and over) which in the "of the above" was used in Andar's Build or Tyler's .223 case collator build. (that said, I think the above ought to be an option....an index IOW's....so index by components, index by build, etc.)

3. It all needs to funnel to one compiler....whether it be me, Andar, TylerR, Rage1 or whom ever......otherwise it's going to turn into an uncoordinated mess. I totally agree with the "more than one" and "too big a job for one" ideas....but the final product needs to funnel to one......and I'm more than happy to follow and help anybody else to be the compiler. :) I volunteered because I feel appreciative to Tyler for what he's done, and feel I ought to contribute and help......only because TylerR sure as hell can't do it all.....he's done more than he shoulda haveta already....and nobody else was jumping forward to volunteer.

I agree it needs to be compiled by one person. I appreciate you offering to do it. But the gathering of the info from this thread and contributing can be done by anyone who wants to take the time.

As a side note I will be posting video of the long bullet feeding nose up in action shortly. One final print to finish.

[Andar]

Hi Andar,
You can select to mount the JGY370 at 90°, 180°, or 270°, depending on what you want/need. I opted for 90° to use the rear mount option. You can get the STL if you go back to post #1873. Hope this helps.
Ed
271586

Oh sick, thanks! The version I had before it got pulled didn't have those options, there's a lot more in there now than before.
I already had that file downloaded just in case, but I didn't open it up to see if anything new was added.

[GWS]

Hi Andar,
You can select to mount the JGY370 at 90°, 180°, or 270°, depending on what you want/need. I opted for 90° to use the rear mount option. You can get the STL if you go back to post #1873. Hope this helps.
Ed
271586

Page 94 ;)

The old files were on the site to April 2020. Then AmmoMike posted an updated version with lots and lots more! One thing I'm not sure of is if AM did anything with a bigger base? or is that all TyerR's?

[TylerR]

Page 94 ;)

The old files were on the site to April 2020. Then AmmoMike posted an updated version with lots and lots more! One thing I'm not sure of is if AM did anything with a bigger base? or is that all TyerR's?

As far as I know, no one else made a larger base. That was why I started the project.

[TylerR]

And here we go.....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7Bc4vdU6Bk

[o416]

Hi Tyler,

Did you test the Mount_Dillon_Hang_Base.stl file for fit? Mine seems to be off by a whole 3mm on the top two holes that connect to the top two of the collator. The bottom holes under the collator line up perfectly and my machine is dialed in pretty tight. Has anybody used it with success?

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,

Did you test the Mount_Dillon_Hang_Base.stl file for fit? Mine seems to be off by a whole 3mm on the top two holes that connect to the top two of the collator. The bottom holes under the collator line up perfectly and my machine is dialed in pretty tight. Has anybody used it with success?

Yes, it has been printed and tested. The top holes are 30mm apart and 108.5mm from the bottom of the feeder base.

[o416]

Yes, it has been printed and tested. The top holes are 30mm apart and 108.5mm from the bottom of the feeder base.

Is there a particular orientation you had in mind for printing on the bed? Not that it should matter.

[TylerR]

Is there a particular orientation you had in mind for printing on the bed? Not that it should matter.

Absolutely.

271609

[o416]

I think I figured it out. My base is 144mm tall when it should be 140mm. How the hell did I get an extra 4mm????

I printed a test cube and it it was more or less 20mm all around.

[o416]

I just printed another test cube and my Z was 20.5mm this time. What the &*$*&$*&@#!!!

That's a second base gone to junk, sigh! Each one took 2 days to print.

No idea how this happened :(

[TylerR]

I just printed another test cube and my Z was 20.5mm this time. What the &*$*&$*&@#!!!

That's a second base gone to junk, sigh! Each one took 2 days to print.

No idea how this happened :(
Just drill the two holes where they need to be. No need to trash the whole base.

[lablover]

Hi Tyler,

Did you test the Mount_Dillon_Hang_Base.stl file for fit? Mine seems to be off by a whole 3mm on the top two holes that connect to the top two of the collator. The bottom holes under the collator line up perfectly and my machine is dialed in pretty tight. Has anybody used it with success?

I use the hang plates and love them. Working great so far and no issues. I’m with Tyler on this one. Drill the holes and don’t waste a complete base.

[GWS]

Just drill the two holes where they need to be. No need to trash the whole base.

Exactly! And maybe fill the bad holes first by taping the inside with a little alum duct tape, melt a little pla in an alum. measuring spoon and pouring it in, outside to in, and then use a hot knife to clean it up. Ask me how I know.....Mine was all me, drilling where there was no holes......wrong.;)


And here we go.....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7Bc4vdU6Bk

Beautiful.......like your round-downs on the plate! The new ramp I assume is further out? But still a ramp for the lawyers.....

Now for the big test.....add 100 boolits at once.....:)

[noacess]

Well that is great news! Where is the video? :)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNsXcdyLW9Y

When will the new files be up video you posted?!? I've got the dillon mount printing now. Awesome job on all this!

[Rage 01]

Three problems with that:

1. Say somebody LOVE's Andars build. Duplicating it would be easiest if it were organized under Andar's Build, with all the stuff he downloaded, ordered, printed, and even a spot for videos proving it worked great.

2. Organizing it only under the sections:
Motors
Hardware
Electronics
Mounts
Buckets
Ramps

means that you still have to be asked (over and over) which in the "of the above" was used in Andar's Build or Tyler's .223 case collator build. (that said, I think the above ought to be an option....an index IOW's....so index by components, index by build, by caliber, case or bullet, etc.)

3. It all needs to funnel to one compiler....whether it be me, Andar, TylerR, Rage1 or whom ever......otherwise it's going to turn into an uncoordinated mess. I totally agree with the "more than one" and "too big a job for one" ideas....but the final product needs to funnel to one......and I'm more than happy to follow and help anybody else to be the compiler. :) I volunteered because I feel appreciative to Tyler for what he's done, and feel I ought to contribute and help......only because TylerR sure as hell can't do it all.....he's done more than he shoulda haveta already....and nobody else was jumping forward to volunteer. Any of you younger guys could do this better than me.

I don't know if you want to separate them by builds. I think what TylerR is getting at is what can be used to build these, where to get it if needed and which piece to print for each caliber.

I could be wrong... Like I usually am...:-?
You could always beside said part put a name of who used it in their build.
You don't want to add too many different categories. Then it makes the document over whelming.

Just spit ballin here..
And yes I do have a little time on my hands right now for a couple of weeks to help.

[TylerR]

When will the new files be up video you posted?!? I've got the dillon mount printing now. Awesome job on all this!

Oh man you had that moving! Nice.

I am planning to post them tomorrow. Working on the nose down right now, and then it will all get posted.

[lablover]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNsXcdyLW9Y

When will the new files be up video you posted?!? I've got the dillon mount printing now. Awesome job on all this!

That bad boy is cruising! And that’s with the amazon motor, yea I need to order that now! My original mr bullet feeder motor is slow as ever. Gets the job done but if I want to go faster I can’t .

Just got me a few roles of Prusament from Czech Republic today. Only took 5 days and great price.

[TylerR]

That bad boy is cruising! And that’s with the amazon motor, yea I need to order that now! My original mr bullet feeder motor is slow as ever. Gets the job done but if I want to go faster I can’t .

Just got me a few roles of Prusament from Czech Republic today. Only took 5 days and great price.

How did you make out with that .32acp feeder die?

[TylerR]

And more success..... Just about ready for primetime!


https://youtu.be/p7ULfp55u7o

Here is the details of the new nose down feeder plate. Took awhile to come up with this one.

271635

[TylerR]

I added a Shared Documents to my drive. Anyone signed in to google can make edits to the files in the folder, as well as add files. I have dropped my bullet compatibility chart as well as Andar's tube bender spring chart, and GWS posted a cost calculator.

[lablover]

How did you make out with that .32acp feeder die?

Got to play with it today. Works flawlessly! I swear these dies are the cats a$$! Thanks a million for putting it together for me. It’s amazing how well printing at .12 makes things fit together. I’m looking forward to trying that supposedly super accurate in dimensional accuracy that prusament filament is. Wife ordered a shiny silky color to play with as well.

[GWS]

And more success..... Just about ready for primetime!]

Here is the details of the new nose down feeder plate. Took awhile to come up with this one.

271635

I noticed you dropped it partway first.....works....stops the binds at speed! That's a complicated slider, but so what!......wouldn't be surprised if DAA offered you a job instead of a law suit.;)

I started printing today the small parts for the big collator box....every last one failed, curled up at the corners...and that with the high first layer temperature you recommended and a really clean acetone washed bed. Annoying big time. But I got your polypropylene bed from amazon, so I will have to give up on Creality's bed....that's not acceptable for a bed to only last 3 months.

Question, Tyler! The polypropylene bed came with another sheet (same size) of ......something. Yellow peel-able film over a white 1/16" thick plastic sheet.......wonder if it's another stick-on bed. It's smooth, so I'm totally confused......directions to use the poly bed has no mention of the white one.:confused:

Probably an Important Question: Do you mount the polypropylene bed to the aluminum sub-bed, or just on top of the existing glass bed?

[GWS]

I added a Shared Documents to my drive. Anyone signed in to google can make edits to the files in the folder, as well as add files. I have dropped my bullet compatibility chart as well as Andar's tube bender spring chart, and GWS posted a cost calculator.

People Notice: The cost calculator I posted is an Excel file, and Google shows an error and can't run it right......so if you want to try it out, download it first and run it on Office Excel as intended.

[TylerR]

Question, Tyler! The polypropylene bed came with another sheet (same size) of ......something. Yellow peel-able film over a white 1/16" thick plastic sheet.......wonder if it's another stick-on bed. It's smooth, so I'm totally confused......directions to use the poly bed has no mention of the white one.:confused:

Probably an Important Question: Do you mount the polypropylene bed to the aluminum sub-bed, or just on top of the existing glass bed?

I am not sure what that extra white sheet is. The polypropylene sheet is green with smooth sides. Take some 220 grit sandpaper and lightly rough up the surface on one side so its not smooth anymore. Then clean it with some basic windex. Attach it with 4 binder clips and level that bad boy (accounting for any z axis difference) and you should be good to go.

I have my sheet mounted on top of a glass bed, but not sure that was necessary. I just wanted things as level as possible.

[GWS]

Okay, I'll flip the existing glass bed to the smoothside up, then mount the poly bed to it.......of course I will rough it up first.....220 I do have.

[TylerR]

Just posted v1.1.4

Changes include:

- Feed dies for .223, .308, 32acp
- Spring adapters provided by Andar for pipe bender springs
- Adjustable slide for collating rifle brass
- Long rifle bullet collator plates generated for .308 (#11)
- Nose up and nose down long rifle bullet slide plates (#11)
- New collator generator v2.1.0 with options to create plates for long rifle bullets.

isLongRifleBullet = true; // Used for very long rifle bullets
addRamps = true; // Ramps give more angle for better feeding

[TylerR]

One note on the long rifle bullets. It likes to run at a pretty steep angle on the feeder. So if you try it and its not working try adding more angle.
Also, the collator plate was designed around .308, but would probably work fine on 6.5. I have not tested it. If there are issues you may want to generate a new plate specifically for 6.5.

Also forgot, use the "Sweeper" to disengage the flipper arm and help sweep stragglers off the side of the plate. The video's show this.

[noacess]

One note on the long rifle bullets. It likes to run at a pretty steep angle on the feeder. So if you try it and its not working try adding more angle.
Also, the collator plate was designed around .308, but would probably work fine on 6.5. I have not tested it. If there are issues you may want to generate a new plate specifically for 6.5.

Also forgot, use the "Sweeper" to disengage the flipper arm and help sweep stragglers off the side of the plate. The video's show this.

I just started printing this although I forgot the sweeper. At least that'll be a fast print afterwards. I can't wait to try this out.


As a side note, is anyone using the Dillon mount with success? I went back to page 65 and some folks said they were going to test it but I don't know if anyone ever followed up. I plan on grabbing the bolt/washer/locknut I need today.


271648

[TylerR]

I just started printing this although I forgot the sweeper. At least that'll be a fast print afterwards. I can't wait to try this out.


As a side note, is anyone using the Dillon mount with success? I went back to page 65 and some folks said they were going to test it but I don't know if anyone ever followed up. I plan on grabbing the bolt/washer/locknut I need today.



Man you are quick! I made a small change to the slide plate, and re-uploaded very shortly after I first posted. Hopefully you didn't download it seconds after it was posted. haha

Yes, the dillon mount has been used and confirmed by at least two people. I think lablover was one of them but can't remember.

[lablover]

I just started printing this although I forgot the sweeper. At least that'll be a fast print afterwards. I can't wait to try this out.


As a side note, is anyone using the Dillon mount with success? I went back to page 65 and some folks said they were going to test it but I don't know if anyone ever followed up. I plan on grabbing the bolt/washer/locknut I need today.


271648

I am using the Dillon mount and have had no issues at all with it. Been using it for several weeks.

[noacess]

Man you are quick! I made a small change to the slide plate, and re-uploaded very shortly after I first posted. Hopefully you didn't download it seconds after it was posted. haha

Yes, the dillon mount has been used and confirmed by at least two people. I think lablover was one of them but can't remember.

Any chance you can tell by the picture I shared if I'm using the right one? I downloaded it at 10:13am EST if that's helpful.

[noacess]

Man you are quick! I made a small change to the slide plate, and re-uploaded very shortly after I first posted. Hopefully you didn't download it seconds after it was posted. haha

Yes, the dillon mount has been used and confirmed by at least two people. I think lablover was one of them but can't remember.

One other thing I want to mention is it looks like the zip file is gone from there share. Not sure if that was on purpose. Just wanted to give you a FYI.

[noacess]

One other thing I want to mention is it looks like the zip file is gone from there share. Not sure if that was on purpose. Just wanted to give you a FYI.

And...its back now. Maybe it was just my browser or google having a moment.

[TylerR]

Any chance you can tell by the picture I shared if I'm using the right one? I downloaded it at 10:13am EST if that's helpful.

You should be good to go. File is back up. I tend to do this when I post a download. Make last second tweaks. I am pretty sure I am done for now. Any more changes and I will increment the version.

[noacess]

Something else I want to mention for folks who decide to do a build with the hex bolt shaft: While there is a notch put in on the plates to accommodate the set screw, there is a good chance that the set screw on the hex bolt will not line up with this (mine didn't). All I did to get around this was dremel the set screw down a bit and then everything fits fine.

[TylerR]

Something else I want to mention for folks who decide to do a build with the hex bolt shaft: While there is a notch put in on the plates to accommodate the set screw, there is a good chance that the set screw on the hex bolt will not line up with this (mine didn't). All I did to get around this was dremel the set screw down a bit and then everything fits fine.

Can you explain this? Is the set screw not centered?

[noacess]

Can you explain this? Is the set screw not centered?

Correct. Its not centered. Just as an aside - do you use discord at all?

271660

[TylerR]

Correct. Its not centered. Just as an aside - do you use discord at all?


I went back and looked at the hex couplers I have, and it does seem like the setscrew is more aligned with the angle and not the flat of the hex. So I made a change to put the slot there instead. Not sure if that will be true for all of them.

I do not use discord.

[djinnpb]

TylerR, thanks for the revision bump. I printed the old BNU #11 slide last night lol so will grab this one to try also. That new one looks like it definitely took some tinkering and a pile to get right. Again thanks so much for this. Also the long rifle bullet collator plate that one is what your video shows for the 300bo or have a bit more curve (long rifle bullet #11)? Worst part about using petg is taking forever to print things. I'll be trying this plate out in 22 hours.

[TylerR]

TylerR, thanks for the revision bump. I printed the old BNU #11 slide last night lol so will grab this one to try also. That new one looks like it definitely took some tinkering and a pile to get right. Again thanks so much for this. Also the long rifle bullet collator plate that one is what your video shows for the 300bo or have a bit more curve (long rifle bullet #11)? Worst part about using petg is taking forever to print things. I'll be trying this plate out in 22 hours.

The long rifle bullet collator plate (#11) is the same as in the video.

[noacess]

So folks who are using the DAA dies, what solution are you using to secure the drop tube to the die? I don't have the brass weight so I wasn't sure if there is something I can print to use springs/o-rings/rubberbands. Thanks!

[TylerR]

So folks who are using the DAA dies, what solution are you using to secure the drop tube to the die? I don't have the brass weight so I wasn't sure if there is something I can print to use springs/o-rings/rubberbands. Thanks!

It's a direct fit. Unless I am not understanding the question.

[noacess]

It's a direct fit. Unless I am not understanding the question.

Right the issue is there is nothing to put downward pressure on the top/inner part of the die and it doesn't drop back down nicely because of the tension being put on it due to the the drop tube and spring sitting on top of it pulling it slightly to the side. Basically the same reason why the 3d printed dies have the spots for the o-rings/rubberbands to pull down the inside portion of the die back down.

[djinnpb]

The long rifle bullet collator plate (#11) is the same as in the video.

Awesome! Thanks!

I also broke the awesome 300bo brass plate. My pin on my motors are drilled higher which the hex slot was too low being a thinner plate. Thanks for all the work on these and the scad awesomeness.. Beefed it up and set it to higher so it's up a few more mm. Printing that now also. Man that was working great before it happened *cries*. Curious from your .223 brass vid looked like your pin was decently low. How high from the base floor is your pin? Mine is 10.5mm to the top of the pin from the base's floor. If I run into it again I'll shim my motor down a touch.
271687

[TylerR]

Right the issue is there is nothing to put downward pressure on the top/inner part of the die and it doesn't drop back down nicely because of the tension being put on it due to the the drop tube and spring sitting on top of it pulling it slightly to the side. Basically the same reason why the 3d printed dies have the spots for the o-rings/rubberbands to pull down the inside portion of the die back down.

Ahh, I got ya. I have only used the DAA .45acp version, and the weight of the bullet stack was enough to drop it back down.

[TylerR]

Awesome! Thanks!

I also broke the awesome 300bo brass plate. My pin on my motors are drilled higher which the hex slot was too low being a thinner plate. Thanks for all the work on these and the scad awesomeness.. Beefed it up and set it to higher so it's up a few more mm. Printing that now also. Man that was working great before it happened *cries*. Curious from your .223 brass vid looked like your pin was decently low. How high from the base floor is your pin? Mine is 10.5mm to the top of the pin from the base's floor. If I run into it again I'll shim my motor down a touch.

On the new version of the generator I made it so no matter how thick the plate is, the shaft slot will always be at least 10mm. My pin is about 9mm above the floor of the base.

[djinnpb]

On the new version of the generator I made it so no matter how thick the plate is, the shaft slot will always be at least 10mm. My pin is about 9mm above the floor of the base.

oh gotcha. I used the stl in the zip that was 9mm high just barely hit the pin and caused pressure and snapped the hex handle. I looked in the scad and saw the min of 8mm so just changed some in there, overkill probably... height of 13mm says cura.

Edited: hah, how about that. did a quick one from the current generator and it made it taller indeed.

[TylerR]

Just updated it to v1.1.5.

- All hex plates have been re generated with pin slot on angle instead of flat.
- Another minor reliability tweak to "Slide_Feed_Nose_Up_#11".

Promise I am done for now, until I get some feedback.

[TylerR]

So I am cooking up a new idea inspired by my friend GWS. I won't say what it is yet, but it is a change to the main body, so will only benefit people who print new ones. But it should help improve reliability for certain situations. I bet he can probably guess what it is.

[RedlegEd]

The long rifle bullet collator plate (#11) is the same as in the video.
Hi Tyler,
Will the drop tube for this plate fit the original size collator bowl?
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,
Will the drop tube for this plate fit the original size collator bowl?
Ed

Hi Ed,

Forgive me, my brain may be a bit fried from work, but I am not sure what you are asking exactly.

[RedlegEd]

Hi,
Understand and no worries! I'm talking about the slide in plate (see below.) Is this the same dimension as the slide in plate of the original AM version, or is it wider?
Ed

271706

[TylerR]

Hi,
Understand and no worries! I'm talking about the slide in plate (see below.) Is this the same dimension as the slide in plate of the original AM version, or is it wider?
Ed


Ahh got it, thank you :) My slide plates are 75mm wide. I did that to have more options for these weird kinds of plates. The originals were 50mm wide. I just measured and if I shaved 4mm off the riser length I could get it down to 50. You want me to give it a try?

OK, I just modified it. It's posted :)

[RedlegEd]

Ahh got it, thank you :) My slide plates are 75mm wide. I did that to have more options for these weird kinds of plates. The originals were 50mm wide. I just measured and if I shaved 4mm off the riser length I could get it down to 50. You want me to give it a try?
Hi,
If you have time and inclination, yes, please. Lots of us still use the smaller version, and the collator plate builder gives us the option to make the 147.5mm plate, so I think having a "narrow" version drop plate that fites the original would make sense.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi,
If you have time and inclination, yes, please. Lots of us still use the smaller version, and the collator plate builder gives us the option to make the 147.5mm plate, so I think having a "narrow" version drop plate that fites the original would make sense.
Ed

OK, I just modified it. It's posted. :)
I don't want to make a habit of modifying my stuff for the smaller base, but I'll make an exception for you. haha

[RedlegEd]

OK, I just modified it. It's posted. :)
I don't want to make a habit of modifying my stuff for the smaller base, but I'll make an exception for you. haha

My friend, I very much appreciate it! Thank you.

[TylerR]

My friend, I very much appreciate it! Thank you.

I did measure it compared to his original plate and the dimensions are right on. Let me know if it needs tweaking.

Edited:
I just tried to generate a 147.5mm plate using my new isLongRifleBullet = true param, and there are definitely issues. Perhaps as our resident SCAD guru you could resolve them. My technique with all the math is, how shall I say it, hack and slash.

[RedlegEd]

I did measure it compared to his original plate and the dimensions are right on. Let me know if it needs tweaking.

Edited:
I just tried to generate a 147.5mm plate using my new isLongRifleBullet = true param, and there are definitely issues. Perhaps as our resident SCAD guru you could resolve them. My technique with all the math is, how shall I say it, hack and slash.

Hi,
I'll certainly have a look. TBH, my math skills are also a little weak, so I'll simply adjust it in (just like in Artillery.) :)
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi,
I'll certainly have a look. TBH, my math skills are also a little weak, so I'll simply adjust it in (just like in Artillery.) :)
Ed

Haha that's what I did!

I am looking at that nose down plate for you. It's definitely a bit more of a lift but I will see what I can do.

[TylerR]

Ok both plates are posted for anyone else who wants to take a crack at it. But you are going to have to wait for Ed to tweak the scad cause I aint doing it! :drinks:

[TylerR]

So here is the concept. When long bullets or brass have a distance to fall before clearing the moving collator plate, they tend to get caught up and jam. If you can drop them to the lowest point possible before hitting the drop hole the jams go away. You can see this in action with my new long rifle bullet nose down plate. So how do we take advantage of this with the main drop hole? Create an option to drop prior to the drop hole. Since this may may not work in every situation it needs to be an option. So this is what I have come up with. A part that can be removed or added depending on the need.

271728

This piece could pop in or out very quickly depending on what you want. It is a change to the main body, so I am looking for input.

[TylerR]

So folks who are using the DAA dies, what solution are you using to secure the drop tube to the die? I don't have the brass weight so I wasn't sure if there is something I can print to use springs/o-rings/rubberbands. Thanks!

Coming back to this, we could easily create an extender for the drop tube which would add more weight. Looking at the DAA die im not sure how else to solve the problem. There are really no good points to attach a spring or rubber band.

[noacess]

Coming back to this, we could easily create an extender for the drop tube which would add more weight. Looking at the DAA die im not sure how else to solve the problem. There are really no good points to attach a spring or rubber band.

I've only really seen one solution out there. Basically you print a die nut with protrusions that would hold a rubber bands/o-rings. Ideally said protrusions would be small enough to not to impact other stations when you turn the nut. Then you either have to create an adapter that sits between the drop tube and the die and hold the other set of protrusions or build said protrusions into the drop tube itself (alternatively I'm considering just putting screws into my drop tubs to hold the top of the o-ring).

Other than that I was curious if anyone has had any other creative ideas :)

[TylerR]

I've only really seen one solution out there. Basically you print a die nut with protrusions that would hold a rubber bands/o-rings. Ideally said protrusions would be small enough to not to impact other stations when you turn the nut. Then you either have to create an adapter that sits between the drop tube and the die and hold the other set of protrusions or build said protrusions into the drop tube itself (alternatively I'm considering just putting screws into my drop tubs to hold the top of the o-ring).

Other than that I was curious if anyone has had any other creative ideas :)

You just described my new bullet feeder dies :)

What caliber are we talking about here?

[noacess]

You just described my new bullet feeder dies :)

What caliber are we talking about here?

I only load 300BLK, so 308 and 9mm. Although with the spp shortage I've been temped to pick up a 45 ACP or 10mm....

[GWS]

So here is the concept. When long bullets or brass have a distance to fall before clearing the moving collator plate, they tend to get caught up and jam. If you can drop them to the lowest point possible before hitting the drop hole the jams go away. You can see this in action with my new long rifle bullet nose down plate. So how do we take advantage of this with the main drop hole? Create an option to drop prior to the drop hole. Since this may may not work in every situation it needs to be an option. So this is what I have come up with. A part that can be removed or added depending on the need.

271728

This piece could pop in or out very quickly depending on what you want. It is a change to the main body, so I am looking for input.

That's exactly what the following hack did for A.M.'s original plate for me:

https://i.postimg.cc/05wZCdDv/IMG-3635.jpg

And that made it possible to go this fast:


https://youtu.be/vJUEXfd3r2U

And you are doing it the way I envisioned it could be done for the big base, except think about making one big enough where you can put inserts, not to just plug it, like you show, but to shape it for different bullet sizes to drop down without lateral movement.....and keep in mind that the push on the bullet is not from the base but the middle.....or worse depending on the bullet....you gotta keep them from tipping forward somehow.

[TylerR]

That's exactly what the following hack did for A.M.'s original plate for me:

And that made it possible to go this fast:

And you are doing it the way I envisioned it could be done for the big base, except think about making one big enough where you can put inserts, not to just plug it, like you show, but to shape it for different bullet sizes to drop down without lateral movement.....

Oh now you are getting all fancy on me!

[TylerR]

I only load 300BLK, so 308 and 9mm. Although with the spp shortage I've been temped to pick up a 45 ACP or 10mm....

So try my new 308 feeder die. Don't tell anyone but I actually designed it around 300 BO. shhhhhhh

[noacess]

So try my new 308 feeder die. Don't tell anyone but I actually designed it around 300 BO. shhhhhhh

I'll give it a shot after the slide/bullet plate finish printing tomorrow. I already own the DAA dies but I figured what the heck and ordered some 3.5mm bearings so I could print a set too. I was looking around for other ideas and saw this which while is a hack, could also work:

271732

[GWS]

Fancy....no....YOUR's is the fancy one....mine is just a quick hack!;) But since you made the plug for it you gave me the idea how to perfect the whole idea. You have sliders for each app, again your idea, so why not a predropper for each caliber.....:cool:

[TylerR]

Fancy....no....YOUR's is the fancy one....mine is just a quick hack!;) But since you made the plug for it you gave me the idea how to perfect the whole idea. You have sliders for each app, again your idea, so why not a predropper for each caliber.....:cool:

So I am all ears. but I think you have more practical understanding on the need, so I ask what would I have to change to make it more adaptable? I thought it would be enough to just allow the bullet/brass to "pre-drop".

[TylerR]

I'll give it a shot after the slide/bullet plate finish printing tomorrow. I already own the DAA dies but I figured what the heck and ordered some 3.5mm bearings so I could print a set too. I was looking around for other ideas and saw this which while is a hack, could also work:


If it works it works :)

[GWS]

So here is the concept. When long bullets or brass have a distance to fall before clearing the moving collator plate, they tend to get caught up and jam. If you can drop them to the lowest point possible before hitting the drop hole the jams go away. You can see this in action with my new long rifle bullet nose down plate. So how do we take advantage of this with the main drop hole? Create an option to drop prior to the drop hole. Since this may may not work in every situation it needs to be an option. So this is what I have come up with. A part that can be removed or added depending on the need.

271728

This piece could pop in or out very quickly depending on what you want. It is a change to the main body, so I am looking for input.

Just like you have it will work with .45ACP, 9mm, .40S&W, and likely even .357! For rifle there's two more factors....length and skinny. the longer the bullet/boolit, the more pushing that bullet from middle rather than the bottom can topple it and "possibly" make it fall the wrong way.

I haven't tried it with rifle except the videoed .223 50gr. and it worked, except when a base caught on something and toppled the bullet into the opposite end and it caused a jam. So I removed where I angled the far end thinking that would increase chances of falling in time,smoothed the bottom and even waxed it and finally got the result in the video.

I saw your drop "filler" and thought perfect! With a little bigger hole one had the choice of plugging it, or varying the drop size, shape, and you could then test various scenarios you might experience with different bullet sizes. But I get it that such complicates......everything......kinda like your endless sliders did!;)

and keep in mind that the push on the bullet is not from the base but the middle.....or worse depending on the bullet....you gotta keep them from tipping forward somehow. The taper I had on the forward end allowed the tip of the bullet to fall too far forward and jamb....so filled that in with epoxy. Live and learn, and I wasn't going to print a whole new base and start over the hack.

I'm going to autocad draw a concept or two when I get my crew to work....to show you what I mean. Give me til noon. You need to take a much needed break anyway! :)

[noacess]

And here we go.....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7Bc4vdU6Bk

Alright, all my prints finished this morning. Here is a video of my copy. It starts out really well but then something strange happens where one of the correctly oriented bullets falls and then everything goes to hell. Not sure if its and angle issue or something else. I'll play with it.

Edit: Increasing the angle fixed the problem. Without having a really steep angle there is a potential for multiple bullets to ride up the side which messes up the angle in which they hit the slide plate which is the issue that can be seen in the video. All in all, amazing job TylerR!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyjD8xCaMyQ



Second video running flawlessly at a higher speed:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL0wxUk7KGo&

[GWS]

noaccess!!!!.....looks like a keeper to me. Real soon now I'll be a me too!:)


TylerR!

Here's the drawing I promised....no scale, because here at the office I don't have any models to scale from, but this is the concept I see at least.

https://i.postimg.cc/526f7fnR/DOUBLE-DROP-OUTLET-Model.jpg

I know.....another outlet....with 3 holes[smilie=f:....(flying and ducking) but 4 holes get in the way.

I polished my ramp with a butter knife heated on the stove......hey, it worked! ;)

[noacess]

I suppose while we're on the topic of making changes, a couple of ideas came to mind. First, any thoughts on creating a holder on the base for the sweeper when its not in use? Second, on the Dillon mount where the two pieces touch, it might be cool to have numbered graduation marks on one side and an arrow on the other so if you're switching between bullets/cases that require different angles you could set it roughly the same each time.

Like I said, I'm just throwing out ideas. If they're dumb and/or don't get implemented its all good :)

[TylerR]

Just like you have it will work with .45ACP, 9mm, .40S&W, and likely even .357! For rifle there's two more factors....length and skinny. the longer the bullet/boolit, the more pushing that bullet from middle rather than the bottom can topple it and "possibly" make it fall the wrong way.

I haven't tried it with rifle except the videoed .223 50gr. and it worked, except when a base caught on something and toppled the bullet into the opposite end and it caused a jam. So I removed where I angled the far end thinking that would increase chances of falling in time,smoothed the bottom and even waxed it and finally got the result in the video.

I saw your drop "filler" and thought perfect! With a little bigger hole one had the choice of plugging it, or varying the drop size, shape, and you could then test various scenarios you might experience with different bullet sizes. But I get it that such complicates......everything......kinda like your endless sliders did!;)

and keep in mind that the push on the bullet is not from the base but the middle.....or worse depending on the bullet....you gotta keep them from tipping forward somehow. The taper I had on the forward end allowed the tip of the bullet to fall too far forward and jamb....so filled that in with epoxy. Live and learn, and I wasn't going to print a whole new base and start over the hack.

I'm going to autocad draw a concept or two when I get my crew to work....to show you what I mean. Give me til noon. You need to take a much needed break anyway! :)

Heyyyy, I liked my numbered slider concept. Sure there's a lot of them, but now I know, I am running .45acp, throw in the #7 slider, lock it in, and I am good to go. :)

[TylerR]

Alright, all my prints finished this morning. Here is a video of my copy. It starts out really well but then something strange happens where one of the correctly oriented bullets falls and then everything goes to hell. Not sure if its and angle issue or something else. I'll play with it.

Edit: Increasing the angle fixed the problem. Without having a really steep angle there is a potential for multiple bullets to ride up the side which messes up the angle in which they hit the slide plate which is the issue that can be seen in the video. All in all, amazing job TylerR!



Looks really good. I did mention that it likes to run at a steeper angle for a few reasons, knocking stragglers off the sides is one of them.

[TylerR]

I suppose while we're on the topic of making changes, a couple of ideas came to mind. First, any thoughts on creating a holder on the base for the sweeper when its not in use? Second, on the Dillon mount where the two pieces touch, it might be cool to have numbered graduation marks on one side and an arrow on the other so if you're switching between bullets/cases that require different angles you could set it roughly the same each time.

Like I said, I'm just throwing out ideas. If they're dumb and/or don't get implemented its all good :)

I like these ideas. I can take a look at adding them.

[djinnpb]

Question on the Brass_Feed_Base_Down_Slide. Feeding 300bo brass.. if I have it in all the way, seated to the base, doesn't seem how much the little slide is moved it would very often get one to bind and jam. Not sure but if I leave the slider out a touch, it doesn't seem to jam. Doesn't really make since since it's a large enough hole to fall..
I also notice the little piece has a ramp but faces downward towards the chute. Is that designed to let the neck ride up. With shorter brass like that did you have any issues with jams?

Video of jaming:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBiBLpu4DGY

Not jamming with the slide out a touch:

https://youtu.be/OgfWgnsj7JI
* UPDATED: added the wrong video

[GWS]

Heyyyy, I liked my numbered slider concept. Sure there's a lot of them, but now I know, I am running .45acp, throw in the #7 slider, lock it in, and I am good to go. :)

Actually, I love your numbered sliders.....I'll love them more once I get all of them printed! You have no idea how many things 3D printing/progressive reloading-wise will work better with that concept.....or maybe you do.;) I'm formulating a plan to replace my Pro Chucker 7's case/bullet shuttles with snap in's by caliber.......as you know I like things faster than I am capable of pulling the lever.....that means no bottleneck crashes ....... and I'm only just beginning......

Today when I get home, I will restart printing with your favorite bed.....all ready to go thanks to RedlegEd's insightfulness. Never would have occurred to this 3Dprinter beginner to zero the Z-offset when making a bed change.

[TylerR]

Question on the Brass_Feed_Base_Down_Slide. Feeding 300bo brass.. if I have it in all the way, seated to the base, doesn't seem how much the little slide is moved it would very often get one to bind and jam. Not sure but if I leave the slider out a touch, it doesn't seem to jam. Doesn't really make since since it's a large enough hole to fall..
I also notice the little piece has a ramp but faces downward towards the chute. Is that designed to let the neck ride up. With shorter brass like that did you have any issues with jams?


Yes, there is a sweet spot on how far out the slider should be to give it as much space to fall as possible, without the neck first ones falling too far and binding up. Yes, the ramp is designed to allow the neck to ride up, especially on cases like 300 BO where the neck diameter is not much smaller then the case. Also, you may be running it a tad fast. If you can slow it down just a bit it should help. I would also increase the angle slightly on the feeder. I found the 300BO brass to be far pickier then the 223 brass in my testing.

[TylerR]

Actually, I love your numbered sliders.....I'll love them more once I get all of them printed! You have no idea how many things 3D printing/progressive reloading-wise will work better with that concept.....or maybe you do.;) I'm formulating a plan to replace my Pro Chucker 7's case/bullet shuttles with snap in's by caliber.......as you know I like things faster than I am capable of pulling the lever.....that means no bottleneck crashes ....... and I'm only just beginning......

Today when I get home, I will restart printing with your favorite bed.....all ready to go thanks to RedlegEd's insightulness. Never would have occurred to this 3Dprinter beginner to zero the Z-offset when making a bed change.

Can't wait to hear your feedback on the bed. If you get the leveling just right with good first layer contact, you will be amazed at how reliable it is. I literally clean mine like once every 10 prints with basic windex, and with the PLA pro filament I have been using I have 0 failed prints. Then if I am in a rush I remove the 4 binder clips, place the plate on a cold surface, and the print comes off in about two minutes.

[GWS]

[QUOTE=djinnpb;5036521]Question on the Brass_Feed_Base_Down_Slide. Feeding 300bo brass.. if I have it in all the way, seated to the base, doesn't seem how much the little slide is moved it would very often get one to bind and jam. Not sure but if I leave the slider out a touch, it doesn't seem to jam. Doesn't really make since since it's a large enough hole to fall..
I also notice the little piece has a ramp but faces downward towards the chute. Is that designed to let the neck ride up. With shorter brass like that did you have any issues with jams?

IMPRESSED! Totally surprised watching the triple soldiers falling in! ;)

I'm wondering what will happen to the 3 soldiers falling together with the outlet screwed to the bottom tho......??? Always something isn't there...

Wonder if a knocker of some kind might prevent that. maybe an old-fashion spring knocker like Hornady uses in their pistol bullet feeder mounted an inch or so above the turning plate.

[GWS]

Can't wait to hear your feedback on the bed. If you get the leveling just right with good first layer contact, you will be amazed at how reliable it is. I literally clean mine like once every 10 prints with basic windex, and with the PLA pro filament I have been using I have 0 failed prints. Then if I am in a rush I remove the 4 binder clips, place the plate on a cold surface, and the print comes off in about two minutes.

Thanks for the added info.....80C bed for the first layer, right? Then back to 70? or can it be 60?

BTW I revised the drawing above to simply the foot anchor.....

Heading home to crank up the printer.....semi-retirement is better than no retirement.....I'm tired and it's only 2PM. I hate old.

[djinnpb]

Not jamming with the slide out a touch:

https://youtu.be/OgfWgnsj7JI
You put in the same video twice! I've done that..... (when you fix it, I'll remove this copy)

I went to your site at YouTube and watched the after and posted it here.....IMPRESSED! Totally surprised watching the triple soldiers that fell in! ;)

I'm wondering what will happen to the 3 soldiers falling together with the outlet screwed to the bottom tho......??? Always something isn't there...
Wonder if a knocker of some kind might prevent that. maybe an old-fashion spring knocker like Hornady uses in their pistol bullet feeder mounted an inch or so above the turning plate.

Hah! I did update it after I realized it. Sent to a friend and he said "what happened?" Somehow it happened everytime I tried to record it. Opps! That's some good thinking there. I'm going to screw on the output chute to see how bad the multiple soldier drops are and if like TylerR said, more angle.. Maybe that mitigates it a bit.


Yes, there is a sweet spot on how far out the slider should be to give it as much space to fall as possible, without the neck first ones falling too far and binding up. Yes, the ramp is designed to allow the neck to ride up, especially on cases like 300 BO where the neck diameter is not much smaller then the case. Also, you may be running it a tad fast. If you can slow it down just a bit it should help. I would also increase the angle slightly on the feeder. I found the 300BO brass to be far pickier then the 223 brass in my testing.

So I completely didn't even notice that it was going so much faster than it should be. That was the slowest. You mentioning the speed made me go check my original base (same motor) and ended up being a bad QC of a China speed controller (sure glad I bought several). Barely cracked it would go to 9vdc whereas my other would go low about 2.1vdc. So had a spare, swapped and it starts slow like as it should and drastically improves reliability and gives them time to drop. I was so excited to try the new base I didn't even notice that it was booking too fast.
And you were right on the angle. They really like more angle.

Is there a chance that the slide ramp stl could be split for the little ramp and slide? I can't seem to get it to fit easily with the ramp facing upward and thought about printing another to check it.

[djinnpb]

i'm wondering what will happen to the 3 soldiers falling together with the outlet screwed to the bottom tho......??? Always something isn't there...
Wonder if a knocker of some kind might prevent that. Maybe an old-fashion spring knocker like hornady uses in their pistol bullet feeder mounted an inch or so above the turning plate.

I attached the outlet chute and filled each slot with 3 soldiers and as long as it's going slow enough they drop in order just fine. But more angle definitely lessens the occurrence.

Still kicking myself for the speed controller not having the low end speed. I still have to mount thing thing.

[lablover]

Guess I better adjust the height for the 32 acp bullets. Kept trying to stack 2 on top of each other. I even angled the feeder back more and no dice. The little flipper won’t even knock them off.

Also need to print a new slider plate, 4 ain’t workin.
271763

[cdstang]

Thanks for the added info.....80C bed for the first layer, right? Then back to 70? or can it be 60?

BTW I revised the drawing above to simply the foot anchor.....

Heading home to crank up the printer.....semi-retirement is better than no retirement.....I'm tired and it's only 2PM. I hate old.

Why are you guys heating your print beds to 80C? What type of print bed surface are you printing on that it takes that much heat for PLA? Or are you using ABS?
Im printing on spring steel with PEI and only go up to 40C first layer then to 35C. Im printing with PLA+.

[TylerR]

Guess I better adjust the height for the 32 acp bullets. Kept trying to stack 2 on top of each other. I even angled the feeder back more and no dice. The little flipper won’t even knock them off.

Also need to print a new slider plate, 4 ain’t workin.
271763

I printed out all the slide plates so I can experiment with them to find the best combo.

[TylerR]

Why are you guys heating your print beds to 80C? What type of print bed surface are you printing on that it takes that much heat for PLA? Or are you using ABS?
Im printing on spring steel with PEI and only go up to 40C first layer then to 35C. Im printing with PLA+.

My printer is in my cold basement, and I am using PLA+ which requires higher temps. I find 220/80 for the first layer and 210/70 gives me perfect prints everytime.

[lablover]

I printed out all the slide plates so I can experiment with them to find the best combo.

I need to do the same, been crazy busy around here!

[lablover]

Why are you guys heating your print beds to 80C? What type of print bed surface are you printing on that it takes that much heat for PLA? Or are you using ABS?
Im printing on spring steel with PEI and only go up to 40C first layer then to 35C. Im printing with PLA+.

I think every printer is different. I print on glass bed at 60 and get great prints. I also cheat a little bit and sometimes for long prints ad a little hairspray or maggigoo stick to the bed

[GWS]

I think every printer is different. I print on glass bed at 60 and get great prints. I also cheat a little bit and sometimes for long prints ad a little hairspray or maggigoo stick to the bed

I think it's the bed that makes the most difference, not so much the printer. I was using Creality's factory bed with my new CR-10 V2 and it was printing perfect at 60C and 210C.......for a time.....I mean it was new and my first print was in August! Now it's 3 months later, and it's harder than hell to get a perfect print.

So I listened to Tyler as he swore by Polypropylene, sanded with 220 grit sandpaper to give it a little tooth.......and tonight is my first print following his suggestions of 220C/80C for the first layer, and 120C/70C for the rest of the print.

I knew it was better when I found the purge lines at the beginning of the print after the EZABL Pro leveling, was pretty darn hard to pull up.....I think I stretched it twice it's length like a rubber band to get it up....so I knew layer 1 would not come up like those in the picture below, a printing disaster day before yesterday where every single corner came up. The disaster, I set in front of the reprint going on now on the new pp. bed just installed!

https://i.postimg.cc/XJ73TFW4/IMG-3668.jpg

The only flaw in the whole print is these fine cobwebs in front which wipes off.......all corners are glued until cold.

https://i.postimg.cc/3RS77Rrp/IMG-3675.jpg

Didyah notice the really open fill in the first picture? I'm trying out another feature of IdeaMaker....Adaptive Fill. It's pretty cool I must say. the fill starts out open and gradually closes before the 4 solid fill top layers. We will see if there's any downsides......I doubt it for these parts....this print took 5 hours 10 minutes even using Adaptive layers mostly .12 high.

Below, Done....Adaptive Layers and Adaptive Fill. One thing I like is the super smooth bottoms with Polypropylene. Wish the tops could be as smooth. The areas with .012 layers also smooth. I can see where some things need are best to print the whole thing with .012....but that process is a lot slower.....still learning.

https://i.postimg.cc/sg5qjXf8/IMG-3680.jpg

TylerR: I love the PolyPropylene! It sticks! Thanks for the advice! Tomorrow the two rifle plates.

[TylerR]

I think it's the bed that makes the most difference, not so much the printer. I was using Creality's factory bed with my new CR-10 V2 and it was printing perfect at 60C and 210C.......for a time.....I mean it was new and my first print was in August! Now it's 3 months later, and it's harder than hell to get a perfect print.

So I listened to Tyler as he swore by Polypropylene, sanded with 220 grit sandpaper to give it a little tooth.......and tonight is my first print following his suggestions of 220C/80C for the first layer, and 120C/70C for the rest of the print.

I knew it was better when I found the purge lines at the beginning of the print after the EZABL Pro leveling, was pretty darn hard to pull up.....I think I stretched it twice it's length like a rubber band to get it up....so I knew layer 1 would not come up like those in the picture below, a printing disaster day before yesterday where every single corner came up. The disaster, I set in front of the reprint going on now on the new pp. bed just installed!


Those prints look perfect!

[GWS]

Those prints look perfect!

They just about are.....;)

One fly in the ointment. I will have to redo my favorite Proximity part where it connects to your dump nozzle. The twist connect is too tight for Ammo Mike's part. Will have to get some measurements. Sure would make it easier on me if stupid Autocad could read your cad files. I need another anyway.....time to order another sensor, too. I still prefer the stop switch just under the base. That I'm a Divergent you already know. :)

Oh! One question: the little slider on the slider: what do you suggest to hold it still in place so it doesn't slide while collating?

[TylerR]

They just about are.....;)

One fly in the ointment. I will have to redo my favorite Proximity part where it connects to your dump nozzle. The twist connect is too tight for Ammo Mike's part. Will have to get some measurements. Sure would make it easier on me if stupid Autocad could read your cad files. I need another anyway.....time to order another sensor, too. I still prefer the stop switch just under the base. That I'm a Divergent you already know. :)

Oh! One question: the little slider on the slider: what do you suggest to hold it still in place so it doesn't slide while collating?

I made the tolerance on that part very tight, so on mine friction keeps it in place. I had to put a little grease on it to get it to slide at all. Is it loose on your print?

[TylerR]

Is there a chance that the slide ramp stl could be split for the little ramp and slide? I can't seem to get it to fit easily with the ramp facing upward and thought about printing another to check it.

I separated the two parts in to two stl files. The little slider is posted in the downloads.

[TylerR]

Wonder if a knocker of some kind might prevent that. maybe an old-fashion spring knocker like Hornady uses in their pistol bullet feeder mounted an inch or so above the turning plate.

I can create another version of the sweeper that sticks out further to knock those off, although I found that even though it looks a bit odd the vertical ones seem to fall just fine at the right speed.

[GWS]

I made the tolerance on that part very tight, so on mine friction keeps it in place. I had to put a little grease on it to get it to slide at all. Is it loose on your print?

Did you print yours at .12 or .20? at .12, it's smooth as glass, and slides like it's got bearings! No slop mind you, just smooth. Will have to think of a way to lock it where I want it, but I sure don't want to glue it. Maybe something tiny under the big slider hole with a soldering iron tip. Will have to think first....don't want to ruin perfection!;)

One thing I noticed ... that at least for .308 and .223, the opening can be the same. I don't load bigger cartridges on a progressive.


I can create another version of the sweeper that sticks out further to knock those off, although I found that even though it looks a bit odd the vertical ones seem to fall just fine at the right speed.

I'm thinking that one could just drill a hole just forward from the back, and stick an all-thread with a nut on each side of the plate wall that protrudes in enough to knock them over.....say an 1" above the plate that sticks into the space a little maybe a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch.....obviously such would be adjustable to what works.

[TylerR]

Did you print yours at .12 or .20? at .12, it's smooth as glass, and slides like it's got bearings! No slop mind you, just smooth. Will have to think of a way to lock it where I want it, but I sure don't want to glue it. Maybe something tiny under the big slider hole with a soldering iron tip. Will have to think first....don't want to ruin perfection!;)

One thing I noticed ... that at least for .308 and .223, the opening can be the same. I don't load bigger cartridges on a progressive.

Honestly I think I printed it at .2, and that may be the difference. I a may tighten up the tolerance a little bit more.

The width of the hole fully open is the same as the dillon feeder, and I believe it will handle anything from .223 on up. So the slider really should only come in to play with things like .300BO. I also had a thought that my new long bullet collator plate could probably be used for 300bo brass very effectively.

[TylerR]

Hi,
I'll certainly have a look. TBH, my math skills are also a little weak, so I'll simply adjust it in (just like in Artillery.) :)
Ed

Hi Ed,

Any luck with the new slide plates?

[TylerR]

Long sweeper knocking out the vertical cases.


https://youtu.be/1WD49BPPUO4

[RedlegEd]

Hi Ed,
Any luck with the new slide plates?
Hi Tyler,
No sir. Unfortunately, they don't scale correctly. At this point, I think it best that you keep on working with your large body version and not worry about integrating with the original body design. If folks want to continue to use the older version, they can still use the original collator plate generator. It just won't be as slick as yours! :)
Ed

[GWS]

Long sweeper knocking out the vertical cases.


https://youtu.be/1WD49BPPUO4

That's definitely the easiest way and works for everyone. Although soldiers fell the right direction, 2 or 3 at a time is just looking for jam trouble....IMO it's best if they all fall horizontal first. I was a little worried a sweeper wouldn't be 100% effective tossing 2 or 3 soldiers at a time....nothing to worry about....good job as usual.

[TylerR]

So this is kind of weird but for the first time in awhile I am not sure what else to design and my printer is idle. I know we talked about improvements to the APP mounting situation but not quite ready to take on that project yet.

[TylerR]

Posted v1.1.6 just to reflect a few of the minor changes made.

[djinnpb]

Long sweeper knocking out the vertical cases.


https://youtu.be/1WD49BPPUO4

That's greatness @ long sweeper!! I absolutely have to try that. I'm printing the 300bo #11 bullet collator now. Will toss the long sweeper on another printer.

[o416]

I have a question about the Dayton motor I got for the ETZGMP38 base.

Did you use the 4 screws that came with the motor or put your own washer/nuts on them? I think the screws on them hold down the metal plate so that might be a dumb question.

Also, there is a black plastic on the motor cylinder itself. Did you remove it? Is it just there for protection? I am just worried about overheating.

Thx!

[TylerR]

Maybe this is a good time to take a little vacation....and eat turkey, load some ammo, and do a little shooting.;)

I'm redoing my proximity switch thanks to you sending me the specs on the outlet's twist connection....will print one tomorrow to see how I did.

Looks like this......has a twist connector on the top to connect to your rifle brass outlet, and another twist connector on the bottom to mate to your spring fittings. Maybe it'll work....we will see.....

I need to figure out how to make the flats smaller in my cylinders first.....so they look more round.....not that it hurts anything, but rounder looks better. Still have lots to learn.

One more thing..... I think printing at .12mm layer height I can print it all in one print instead of two.....IOW's sideways thread might have a chance. Hope so.....much easier.

Looks great. Once you get it perfected maybe I can add it to my download?

[GWS]

We will see if it's worthy of that.....anything I make is for sharing if someone wants it. What do you guys think, should I fillet from the bottom to the tee to make it support proof?.....like a web connection?

Any ideas on making cylinder flats smoother? Think it has to be done in the cad software. I can smooth surfaces, but I haven't seen a command to smooth solids.....gotta be....just missed it somewhere.....I thought it was just a part of .stl's and triangles....then I printed TylerR's brass outlet.....wow!

Hi Ed....I see you got up early.....;)

[RedlegEd]

Hi Ed....I see you got up early.....;)
Good morning GWS!
Yep, did my 2 miles early and started working on different things and got some parts printing. Regarding the "smoothness" of your drawings (and maybe your prints,) in OpenScad, there is a "$fn=" function that controls the number of facets, the higher the number, the smoother the render. Typically, using a setting of 50-100 will get cylinders/spheres pretty nice. See if there's a setting in your CAD that controls facets or resolution for cylinders.
Ed

ETA: I see you found it!

[GWS]

Yeah! I just found it on the Autocad forum! Function FACETRES=10! Default is zero. Internet is a wonderful tool I wish we had 50 years ago....castboolits.gunloads.com is wonderful for letting this thread continue..... Experiment will show if I need to go to a higher value like 50 to 100....will let you all know.

[noacess]

TylerR is there a listing of what components fit in the holes of your electronics box? Thanks!

[TylerR]

TylerR is there a listing of what components fit in the holes of your electronics box? Thanks!

Search is your friend :)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=4912466&viewfull=1#post4912466

[noacess]

Search is your friend :)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=4912466&viewfull=1#post4912466

Time to add this to my notes lol. Thanks! At some point I might just post a wiki with all the information aggregated so far.

[TylerR]

Time to add this to my notes lol. Thanks! At some point I might just post a wiki with all the information aggregated so far.
That would be awesome!

[TylerR]

Ohhh shoot I just checked out the shared bullet compatibly chart and I see someone added some new entries. Thank you!!!

[lablover]

Ohhh shoot I just checked out the shared bullet compatibly chart and I see someone added some new entries. Thank you!!!
I put in something for 9mm

Btw, tried the collater plate but a bit smaller for the .32 acp bullets. Still getting stuck sideways. Bullets are 7.90 mm diameter. I went to 7.2mm. Still a no go. I’m curious how much smaller I should go. I need to leave a little wiggle room. Suggestions?

[TylerR]

I put in something for 9mm

Btw, tried the collater plate but a bit smaller for the .32 acp bullets. Still getting stuck sideways. Bullets are 7.90 mm diameter. I went to 7.2mm. Still a no go. I’m curious how much smaller I should go. I need to leave a little wiggle room. Suggestions?

The only thing I can thing to do is go a little smaller (7.0mm-6.9mm) and maybe bump the plate diameter to 180mm. Can you show a quick video?

what is the height of these bullets again?

[GWS]

I'm thinking that a collator isn't going to work for bullets no longer than they are wide. Is that the case?

I failed at my latest proximity sensor tool.....two things.....I forgot the slot for the wings on the end (dumb, forgetful)....and I found that, at the tiny layer height, the threads are too wide, and the sensor just slides in.....so I erased the posts on it and went back to the drawing board.

Also, I do not think my slicer deals well with horizontal threads.....at the top closure there ARE no threads....looks like a bandaid up there. Must be doing something wrong, but I don't have a clue yet. I may be back to two prints for one tool.

[TylerR]

I'm thinking that a collator isn't going to work for bullets no longer than they are wide. Is that the case?

No it would not. It has to be at least a little longer then the diameter, or there is really no way to stop it from going in sideways.

[lablover]

The only thing I can thing to do is go a little smaller (7.0mm-6.9mm) and maybe bump the plate diameter to 180mm. Can you show a quick video?

what is the height of these bullets again?

9.90 mm tall. I think GWS might have hit the nail on the head as they may just be too darn short. Not the end of the world. I’ll try and get a video today but basically when at the bottom of the bowl they like to fall it sideways so the nose is against the collater wall and base is against the wall of the plate in a hole

[TylerR]

9.90 mm tall. I think GWS might have hit the nail on the head as they may just be too darn short. Not the end of the world. I’ll try and get a video today but basically when at the bottom of the bowl they like to fall it sideways so the nose is against the collater wall and base is against the wall of the plate in a hole

That means you have 2mm to play with. I am sure it can be made to work. Let me generate a plate using 7mm as the caliber and plate dia of 180mm. I will load it up in 3d cad and see what the tolerance looks like. One sec......

[TylerR]

So by my measurements, if you go with 6.9mm as your caliber, and 180mm as plate dia, you will end up with 9.3mm from the inside of the hole to the wall of the collator. That should be enough to stop sideways ones. And the actual caliber would be 8.1mm. so .2mm of clearance.

[GWS]

My print looked exciting as it sat finished on the bed.....

https://i.postimg.cc/k5rNwZG8/IMG-3684.jpg

I removed most of the support and turned it upside down! Ugh! What a disappointment!

https://i.postimg.cc/s2pYLcGL/IMG-3689.jpg

Those aren't threads...those are a chaotic mess! Guess I can't print threads horizontally even with .12 layers.....

[noacess]

I had a couple more design ideas for future improvements:

1. Make the slide plates T shaped or maybe just have a notch in one corner so you can't put them in backwards. Don't ask me how this came to me as a feature ;-)
2. Has anyone considered using a 0.25 amp circuit breaker instead of fuses to prevent jams from destroying collator plates? Something like this is what I was thinking: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Te-Connectivity-W28-XQ1A-0-25-CS2190N-0-25A-Circuit-Breaker-1-Lot-of-9-pcs/263595018955?hash=item3d5f7ccacb:g:eYwAAOSwS6ZaypI S

[lablover]

So by my measurements, if you go with 6.9mm as your caliber, and 180mm as plate dia, you will end up with 9.3mm from the inside of the hole to the wall of the collator. That should be enough to stop sideways ones. And the actual caliber would be 8.1mm. so .2mm of clearance.

I’ll give that a try. Thanks a bunch

[djinnpb]

TylerR, with the Slide_Feed_Nose_Up_#11, did you find a sweet spot on the angle? I'm finding that the nose flipping on the 247gr 300bo boolits sometimes flip around the ramp and drop in the tray. The ramp might need to slide in a touch further (maybe 4m) I'm going to experiment with it. Can you share the step file by chance?
They seem to drop right after the ramp every so often once flipped. Thinking maybe the ramp is closer to guide it for a tick longer or the flat riding spot out just a hair? I tried various angles and speeds. Video below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU3vD4LyFug

[noacess]

TylerR, with the Slide_Feed_Nose_Up_#11, did you find a sweet spot on the angle? I'm finding that the nose flipping on the 247gr 300bo boolits sometimes flip around the ramp and drop in the tray. The ramp might need to slide in a touch further (maybe 4m) I'm going to experiment with it. Can you share the step file by chance?
They seem to drop right after the ramp every so often once flipped. Thinking maybe the ramp is closer to guide it for a tick longer or the flat riding spot out just a hair? I tried various angles and speeds. Video below:


I had to have a really steep angle for mine to not have any issues. Granted all my bullets are plated or FMJ 208 - 220gr.

[TylerR]

TylerR, with the Slide_Feed_Nose_Up_#11, did you find a sweet spot on the angle? I'm finding that the nose flipping on the 247gr 300bo boolits sometimes flip around the ramp and drop in the tray. The ramp might need to slide in a touch further (maybe 4m) I'm going to experiment with it. Can you share the step file by chance?
They seem to drop right after the ramp every so often once flipped. Thinking maybe the ramp is closer to guide it for a tick longer or the flat riding spot out just a hair? I tried various angles and speeds. Video below:


Thanks for the video. Can see very quickly what's going on there. That should be an easy fix. Just need to pull out the flat ridge after the flip. I just posted it up.

I just threw one on the printer to make sure there are no unintended consequences from the change.

As a side note, I suspect more angle would correct that from happening.

Looking at the video again, my suggestion has been to use the small sweeper and disable the "flipper" arm.

[djinnpb]

Thanks for the video. Can see very quickly what's going on there. That should be an easy fix. Just need to pull out the flat ridge after the flip. I just posted it up.

I just threw one on the printer to make sure there are no unintended consequences from the change.

As a side note, I suspect more angle would correct that from happening.

Looking at the video again, my suggestion has been to use the small sweeper and disable the "flipper" arm.

Ah yes I see the flat ridge change. Thanks for that! I just started printing it also to give it a go. I'll try that and more angle.

I will use the small sweeper too. I tried that at first and then just pulled the spring out to let the flipper.. well. just flip about :P

Will report back once it finishes.

[TylerR]

Ah yes I see the flat ridge change. Thanks for that! I just started printing it also to give it a go. I'll try that and more angle.

I will use the small sweeper too. I tried that at first and then just pulled the spring out to let the flipper.. well. just flip about :P

Will report back once it finishes.

Initial test went perfect. No way bullets can slide off that plate after they flip now. The other reason I advise a good amount of angle is to reduce the number of bullets clinging to the side of the collator and riding all the way to the top, where they can interfere.

[GWS]

I had a couple more design ideas for future improvements:

1. Make the slide plates T shaped or maybe just have a notch in one corner so you can't put them in backwards. Don't ask me how this came to me as a feature ;-)
2. Has anyone considered using a 0.25 amp circuit breaker instead of fuses to prevent jams from destroying collator plates? Something like this is what I was thinking: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Te-Connectivity-W28-XQ1A-0-25-CS2190N-0-25A-Circuit-Breaker-1-Lot-of-9-pcs/263595018955?hash=item3d5f7ccacb:g:eYwAAOSwS6ZaypI S

Really? is #2 a possibility? They aren't cheap when you have to buy 9. $42 for 9 of them.....be nice if someone sold them in ones or twos. And how do you know .25 amp would work the way you want? Asking for learning's sake......

The Proximity part that failed:

I wondering what the gurus think about two prints that thread together in the Tee! HaHaHa.....I have a long ways to go on making threads obviously. I used the exact same thread on the horizonata as the vertical that works fine......yet in Horizontal the sensor just slides in.....I don't understand that....anyone else Know why that might happen? Please?....

[TylerR]

Really? is #2 a possibility? They aren't cheap when you have to buy 9. $42 for 9 of them.....be nice if someone sold them in ones or twos. And how do you know .25 amp would work the way you want? Asking for learning's sake......

The Proximity part that failed:

I wondering what the gurus think about two prints that thread together in the Tee! HaHaHa.....I have a long ways to go on making threads obviously. I used the exact same thread on the horizonata as the vertical that works fine......yet in Horizontal the sensor just slides in.....I don't understand that....anyone else Know why that might happen? Please?....

If is was me I would consider printing as two separate parts that will pressure fit together and could be held in place by a small dab of glue.

[GWS]

That's what I did last time....it worked at least, so I guess I'm back that.

[RedlegEd]

Really? is #2 a possibility? They aren't cheap when you have to buy 9. $42 for 9 of them.....be nice if someone sold them in ones or twos. And how do you know .25 amp would work the way you want? Asking for learning's sake......

The Proximity part that failed:

I wondering what the gurus think about two prints that thread together in the Tee! HaHaHa.....I have a long ways to go on making threads obviously. I used the exact same thread on the horizonata as the vertical that works fine......yet in Horizontal the sensor just slides in.....I don't understand that....anyone else Know why that might happen? Please?....

Hi GWS,
Not sure what went wrong with your print. When I printed mine, I did it horizontal as well, and it worked fine. I usually have the opposite problem in that my internal threads tend to be too tight and I need to scale them up slightly to get a good fit.
Ed

272001

[djinnpb]

Initial test went perfect. No way bullets can slide off that plate after they flip now. The other reason I advise a good amount of angle is to reduce the number of bullets clinging to the side of the collator and riding all the way to the top, where they can interfere.

Pulling that ridge out worked brilliant. Tested with 247gr NOE cast and 125gr Nosler BT and all was well. I added those two to the bullet compatibility doc.

[noacess]

For 308 / 300BLK what die are you guys using to expand the neck of the case so flat base bullets seat nicely from the feeder die?

[djinnpb]

For 308 / 300BLK what die are you guys using to expand the neck of the case so flat base bullets seat nicely from the feeder die?

I've always just used the Lee universal neck expander die.

[GWS]

Hi GWS,
Not sure what went wrong with your print. When I printed mine, I did it horizontal as well, and it worked fine. I usually have the opposite problem in that my internal threads tend to be too tight and I need to scale them up slightly to get a good fit.

272001

One thing that helps you is you bought the small diameter sensor, I'll bet. Did you print it smaller than .2 layer height? Just curious. I've got an idea or two to try. One is to make it bigger in diameter IS and OS, and printing a threaded sleeve to glue in. Such a sleeve will print in 20 minutes so no biggy. And I can just glue it in the bigger hole.

I got my case feeder mounted, and it's going to drop straight down to the case feeder shuttle, and I'm not terribly high above it, so I want my proximity sensor housing just as short as possible.....NEXT PRINT I may add the fillet....beats all the clean up....no wonder TylerR hates supports..... Still have much more to print.....plate, electronics box, better proximity housing.....but it's going to be cool!


For 308 / 300BLK what die are you guys using to expand the neck of the case so flat base bullets seat nicely from the feeder die?

I use RCBS's rifle tube bullet feeder which come with an "M" style die to expand the neck. It has a second 1/16" deep step that captures the bullet and sits it vertical for the merry-go-round to the seating station. You can get similar ones from Lyman or Noe. That means I can take the pull expander out of the sizer, and that helps with concentricity a lot. I also have one for .223.

If you print your feeder dies you could just order a Noe or Lyman M expander and do the same thing.

[noacess]

If you print your feeder dies you could just order a Noe or Lyman M expander and do the same thing.

The Lyman M die is seemingly sold out everywhere (at leas the 30 M1 Carbine model). For the Noe insert would I need .312 x .308 (also sold out) or would .313 x .309 work?

Thanks for the help!

[GWS]

Pretty sure .308 is what you need......309 may be for Russian? Somebody Noe for sure? (pun intended) Obviously, having RCBS I don't know Noe except by what others have experienced. There is some discussion on them on CastBoolits. Maybe a search is in order? or Call them?

[Todd S]

I’m just getting an Ender 5 pro. I’ve never printed a thing, before. This thread is what pushed me into getting one. I have a Dillon 750 with case feeder. The cost of an MBF with caliber changes is close to what I paid for the Dillon. I’ve read this entire thread and will probably read it again. Great info! I appreciate all of the time and effort you guys have put into this project!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I’m just getting an Ender 5 pro. I’ve never printed a thing, before. This thread is what pushed me into getting one. I have a Dillon 750 with case feeder. The cost of an MBF with caliber changes is close to what I paid for the Dillon. I’ve read this entire thread and will probably read it again. Great info! I appreciate all of the time and effort you guys have put into this project!


Welcome to the thread Todd! I think we have just about every need covered at this point. :)
I just started on my new ideas for the APP press so now I have that to obsess about. Looking very promising at the moment to increase caliber change speeds.

[noacess]

Welcome to the thread Todd! I think we have just about every need covered at this point. :)
I just started on my new ideas for the APP press so now I have that to obsess about. Looking very promising at the moment to increase caliber change speeds.

So, what are your thoughts on building an automated inductive annealer? Seems like it’d be a great project to combine with the case feeder!

[TylerR]

So, what are your thoughts on building an automated inductive annealer? Seems like it’d be a great project to combine with the case feeder!

Haha. you got me there bro. I am going to leave that to the next guy.

[GWS]

Welcome to the thread Todd! I think we have just about every need covered at this point. :)
I just started on my new ideas for the APP press so now I have that to obsess about. Looking very promising at the moment to increase caliber change speeds.

Interested to see what you're up to! I've done some of that.....but more remains to be done. My interest in the next year will be to make my RCBS Summit press into a heavy duty smooth as glass..... APP.

Tonight I finished what I hope to be the finishing touches to my Proximity Sensor Outlet for my Rifle Case Collator. The collator is mounted now directly above the RCBS tube case feeder to drop straight into it. I say finishing touches, but I need to do a twist connector transition from the clear rigid tube to the Outlet. Should have that finished tonight.

Will print the Outlet in the morning (5+ hrs print) Then will start the first of the fancy rifle case collator wheels for .223. and .308.

Here's a hopeful preview of the Outlet:

https://i.postimg.cc/tCbbGSVt/Proximity-Sensor-Outlet-Rifle-Case-Collator.png The little guy on the right is the theaded insert known to work that will slip tight into the big piece.....hopefully....as I'm printing it at a fine layer height this time. If not the insert is something I already have printed at .20 and I know it works perfect.

I raised the outlet above the Tee another 6mm because of clearance problems with the BIG motor I have on this collator. My second sensor came in today, so I'm going to have a little fun tomorrow.;)

[TylerR]

Interested to see what you're up to! I've don some of that.....but more remains to be done. My interest in the next year will be to make my RCBS Summit press into a heavy duty smooth as glass..... APP.

Tonight I finished what I hope to be the finishing touches to my Proximity Sensor Outlet for my Rifle Case Collator. The collator is mounted now directly above the RCBS tube case feeder to drop straight into it. I say finishing touches, but I need to do a twist connector transition from the clear rigid tube to the Outlet. Should have that finished tonight.

Will print the Outlet in the morning (5+ hrs print) The will start the fancy rifle case collator wheels for .223. and .308.

Here's a hopeful preview of the Outlet:

The little guy on the right is the theaded insert known to work that will slip tight into the big piece.....hopefully....as I'm printing it at a fine layer height this time. If not the insert is something I already have printed at .20 and I know it works perfect.

I raised the outlet above the Tee another 6mm because of clearance problems with the BIG motor I have on this collator. My second sensor came in today, so I'm going to have a little fun tomorrow.;)

GWS, I just want to say I appreciate all your contributions and design changes to this project :drinks:

[o416]

Hey Tyler,

Do you print the large collator plates at 0.12 (Super Quality) or at 0.2 (Standard Quality)? The former takes a whole day to print lol

Thx!

[GWS]

Thanks TylerR, but I'd be exactly nowhere without your enormous efforts. Today I didn't get as far as I wanted to. My younger brother and partner had an especially bad day. He slid off a Garage roof he was sheathing and broke his left ankle landing feet down, and his right heel bone too. So he will be in a wheel chair for most of six weeks. We get too comfortable doing what we have done for years, and sometimes forget to be careful enough and watch where we step.

I did get the parts printed and they will work, but the fit required some carving in the female twist connector .... I'm not as good as you are with printing. The end down shown in the last picture, had too much of an unsupported ledge inside the twist lock ..... lots of stringing, poor bridging ...... all stuff that prints perfect if turned 180 degrees, but then I'd have the same problem with the two twist anchors being unsupported, as well as the tee, again..... Thoughts? The thread inserts work great, superglued in. RedlegEd's smaller diameter ones would also work if another thread insert with smaller threads replaced the other.


Hey Tyler,

Do you print the large collator plates at 0.12 (Super Quality) or at 0.2 (Standard Quality)? The former takes a whole day to print lol

Thx!

Think TylerR told me he printed those at 0.20. That's all I've done.

[lablover]

So by my measurements, if you go with 6.9mm as your caliber, and 180mm as plate dia, you will end up with 9.3mm from the inside of the hole to the wall of the collator. That should be enough to stop sideways ones. And the actual caliber would be 8.1mm. so .2mm of clearance.

Been a crazy week, finally getting this on the printer.....fingers crossed

[Fil131]

Happy Thanksgiving guys and gals!!!

[lablover]

Been a crazy week, finally getting this on the printer.....fingers crossed

Well the plate worked great. No more sideways bullets.....HOWEVER! now the bullets don't want to drop down the small spring using the small spring adaptor at the top. I think because these bullets are so small and lite they get stuck att he hole in the collator. The small spring adapter won't allow them to drop. I cut off the top of the small spring adapter and it started to work but now bullets are getting hung up on the spring from the small adapter and transition to the spring. AGHHHHHHHHHH. I'm thinking I'm at the end of my Witts on this 32.

Very hard to explain why the small spring adapter won't work. Being those bullets are so short and small they are literally on the edge of the collator plate. so when they drop they are dropping on the very outside of the drop hole. Once you screw that small spring adapter in they no longer have room to drop down the spring. When I hacked off the top of the small spring adapter then they had a little room to drop but then got caught on the spring inside the adapter. I'll try to get some video or pics but its almost impossible to see as the collator plate is in the way and you can't see it.

[GWS]

The spring edge should be hidden in a recess of the spring adapter. If it's not, either the spring adapter hole should be a smaller I.S. diameter, or the spring a bigger I.S. diameter so the falling bullet feels no trace of the spring's edge. I've done my share of outlets before the 3d printer was a glimmer in my eye, and into those unenlightened days, epoxy putty was used to fill in where there was edges I didn't want, and a round file used to smooth it, then a dowel wrapped in fine wet/dry sandpaper finished it. Good luck.

Of course once you make it work you can change the print file to copy that and print a clean one.....before 3d printers came the hack that worked was also the final part that worked!;)

One more thought.....there are springs and better springs.....the more daylight you see between the coils the worse they are for short bullets......and if the I.S. diameter of a spring is too big your short bullets will turn and jam easier. The Hornady springs that came with the Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder (I modded to flip bullets) are tight, no see thru, smooth as glass inside.....much less friction and no chance of hangs inside those, compared to the see through variety, DAA sells.

And they are heavier gage than the Chinese imported ones, and thus deform under bullet load way less.


https://i.postimg.cc/XJC9Bd8r/29.jpg

[lablover]

GWS
The springs I use are the small from DAA. I'm at a loss on the small spring adapter on the collator. I'm going to try and get some pictures here soon. When you see how the small spring adapter is working with the tiny bullets you will see my problem. Once I hacked off the top of it it was working but not much better

272203


https://youtu.be/e05dqUqWWyk

[TylerR]

GWS
The springs I use are the small from DAA. I'm at a loss on the small spring adapter on the collator. I'm going to try and get some pictures here soon. When you see how the small spring adapter is working with the tiny bullets you will see my problem. Once I hacked off the top of it it was working .

Yeah that doesn’t look right at all. That part is the original from Tom’s mods. I am
out of town right now but when I get back I will take a look at and make the necessary changes.

[lablover]

Yeah that doesn’t look right at all. That part is the original from Tom’s mods. I am
out of town right now but when I get back I will take a look at and make the necessary changes.

Thanks a million buddy. I figured something was out of skew

[GWS]

Well you got me thoroughly confused.........I've never seen an adapter that looks like that, except maybe the DT versions, but they don't have funnel tops. And the DT models are the only ones I've seen that don't recess the thread end to prevent hangs that will always occur if they are not recessed.

TylerR mentioned Tom's Mods.....that must explain it as I've never seen Tom's mods.....not impressed if that's how he modded it.

Maybe that's a fix a 3-D pen could do.......hide the spring!;)

[lablover]

Well you got me thoroughly confused.........I've never seen an adapter that looks like that, except maybe the DT versions, but they don't have funnel tops. And the DT models are the only ones I've seen that don't recess the thread end to prevent hangs that will always occur if they are not recessed.

TylerR mentioned Tom's Mods.....that must explain it as I've never seen Tom's mods.....not impressed if that's how he modded it.

Maybe that's a fix a 3-D pen could do.......hide the spring!;)


Remember I used the small spring adapter. It’s really long and has like a “V” notch in it. I cut that part off because the bullets would not go down the adapter. Which is odd because it works fine for .223. After I cut the top off the. It worked a bit better but then bullets would get caught on the spring.

This is what it looks like after I chopped it

272208

[GWS]

The one I see in TylerR's "bf_v1.1.5" files under "adapters" by that name is this:

272213272214272215

And that part has no long v groove.....it appears to be about the same length as your chopped one and it recesses the spring end behind the funnel. Maybe you might want to try that one. "Spring_Adapter_Small.stl"

[lablover]

The one I see in TylerR's "bf_v1.1.5" files under "adapters" by that name is this:

272213272214272215

And that part has no long v groove.....it appears to be about the same length as your chopped one and it recesses the spring end behind the funnel. Maybe you might want to try that one. "Spring_Adapter_Small.stl"

Well let me go have a look see. I bet I missed it! Thanks GWS.

EDIT:......Found it! not sure what the heck I was doing. I just downloaded the latest and there it was. Guess I was a little behind on the downloads.

thanks again
Joe

[TylerR]

Well let me go have a look see. I bet I missed it! Thanks GWS.

EDIT:......Found it! not sure what the heck I was doing. I just downloaded the latest and there it was. Guess I was a little behind on the downloads.

thanks again
Joe


That’s funny because I thought I had eventually gotten to changing that original part but couldn’t remember. I guess I did! I honestly have not used it so if you notice any other issues let me know. I will back home later today.

[lablover]

That’s funny because I thought I had eventually gotten to changing that original part but couldn’t remember. I guess I did! I honestly have not used it so if you notice any other issues let me know. I will back home later today.

Printed new small spring adapter....no go. See pic, I’m not sure that adjusting the diameter of the collator plate did me any favors. I did some sanding around the mouth and shortened it and the bullets go in now but more times than anything they get stuck sideways. I don’t think I’m going to have much luck with the 60 gr .32 bullets

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[TylerR]

Printed new small spring adapter....no go. See pic, I’m not sure that adjusting the diameter of the collator plate did me any favors. I did some sanding around the mouth and shortened it and the bullets go in now but more times than anything they get stuck sideways. I don’t think I’m going to have much luck with the 60 gr .32

Can you shoot a quick video? It may be that you need a longer straight drop at the funnel before it reduces diameter but hard to tell just from the pictures.

I will also print one up just to make sure I am not missing something obvious.

[GWS]

TylerR & lablover: What I see is the same thing that gave me fits with the APP bullet shuttle.......tapers or fillets towards the holes. All that does for a short bullet is tilt it into the hole......better to slide them in straight.

IOW's get rid of the troughs leading to the holes. Where troughs work, is to slide in longer bullets towards the holes where the bullets then tip upright and fall. In this short fat bullet case it just causes a permanent tilt and hang. IMO for short fats, a flat surface with a sudden drop in the hole will work better. (and wax the surface with paraffin, or paste wax)

The more I think about it, the more I think that the smaller hole size in the plate may have been the wrong target....getting rid of the troughs for shorts the right target.

The easiest way to test that theory is just to fill in the troughs temporarily with plaster and test the idea......same with the plate with the bigger holes....and you may find that the bigger holes is even better.

[d278te]

Can someone point me in the direction of the files for the openbulletfeeder? I can only find the older files using the DAA motor mount on thingiverse. The thingiverse files for ammomikes upload is not up right now, all I get is a 404 error.

[TylerR]

TylerR & lablover: What I see is the same thing that gave me fits with the APP bullet shuttle.......tapers or fillets towards the holes. All that does for a short bullet is tilt it into the hole......better to slide them in straight.

IOW's get rid of the troughs leading to the holes. Where troughs work, is to slide in longer bullets towards the holes where the bullets then tip upright and fall. In this short fat bullet case it just causes a permanent tilt and hang. IMO for short fats, a flat surface with a sudden drop in the hole will work better. (and wax the surface with paraffin, or paste wax)

The more I think about it, the more I think that the smaller hole size in the plate may have been the wrong target....getting rid of the troughs for shorts the right target.

The easiest way to test that theory is just to fill in the troughs temporarily with plaster and test the idea......same with the plate with the bigger holes....and you may find that the bigger holes is even better.


I am not sure I am following all of that exactly, but I think you have probably messed with this scenario more then me. If the holes are bigger how does it prevent them from going in sideways? I do have one idea for lablover to try which should be easy to test.

Oh I get it now. You are basically saying remove the sliding slots in the plate. That does make sense to me. He could try that as well as my change and it just might do it for him.

[TylerR]

Can someone point me in the direction of the files for the openbulletfeeder? I can only find the older files using the DAA motor mount on thingiverse. The thingiverse files for ammomikes upload is not up right now, all I get is a 404 error.

If you are looking for Mikes files just check out his last post in this thread. He included a link. If you are interested in mine just look at my signature.

[TylerR]

lablover. I just posted a new version of the small spring adapter. It has a much more gradual taper to the spring. Give it a try and let me know if there is any improvement.

[lablover]

lablover. I just posted a new version of the small spring adapter. It has a much more gradual taper to the spring. Give it a try and let me know if there is any improvement.


I’ll give it a go later today. I was so close to that bullet feeder flying Accross the room yesterday..lol. I will also try a plate with no troughs as GWS suggests. I guess the good news is that the bullets don’t try to go sideways in the plate anymore but now it’s created this new problem. It’s almost like the hole in the collator base needs to be moved...hope this works. Right now I have a Lee APP clear tube running out of the bullet die...hahahahahaha

GWS, I think I may already have a plate in the scrap pile with no troughs and bigger holes. Will investigate your theory. Forgot why I abandoned it? Oh I remember, bullets fell in the hole sideways

[GWS]

GWS, I think I may already have a plate in the scrap pile with no troughs and bigger holes. Will investigate your theory. Forgot why I abandoned it? Oh I remember, bullets fell in the hole sideways

Well they sure will, if the holes are beveled anywhere. Those short bullets are a different breed for sure....and I can't stress having a waxed plate surface more...the lighter the bullets the more friction affects them.

Thing is, if the bullets are already base down on the plate, the bevels will tilt them....if they are already laying sideways, they have to turn base down to drop clean.....so the need to have a big enough hole to do that without hanging up at a diagonal.

[lablover]

Well they sure will, if the holes are beveled anywhere. Those short bullets are a different breed for sure....and I can't stress having a waxed plate surface more...the lighter the bullets the more friction affects them.

Thing is, if the bullets are already base down on the plate, the bevels will tilt them....if they are already laying sideways, they have to turn base down to drop clean.....so the need to have a big enough hole to do that without hanging up at a diagonal.

So you would also get rid of the bevels around the holes as well?

Printed new Tyler adapter...no go, they are still getting stuck even when base is down. I’ll have to try and get a video. It’s almost like the adapter is too long which makes no sense but when you see it you will understand. If I disengage the spring adaptor a little and drop it down the bullets will drop but then they get stuck sideways going down the adapter.

Like I mentioned, I’ll try and put together a detailed video which should help.

[TylerR]

So you would also get rid of the bevels around the holes as well?

Printed new Tyler adapter...no go, they are still getting stuck even when base is down. I’ll have to try and get a video. It’s almost like the adapter is too long which makes no sense but when you see it you will understand. If I disengage the spring adaptor a little and drop it down the bullets will drop but then they get stuck sideways going down the adapter.

Like I mentioned, I’ll try and put together a detailed video which should help.

Very odd. Would love to see the video. So they get stuck even with the spring completely removed? What you are experiencing is very similar to the problem I had with base up case feeding, but it doesn't make sense since the bullet should really want to fall base down, not up.

It also begs the question of, even if they make it in to the spring itself, will they get stuck sideways? Not sure if you tested that at all.

[lablover]

Very odd. Would love to see the video. So they get stuck even with the spring completely removed? What you are experiencing is very similar to the problem I had with base up case feeding, but it doesn't make sense since the bullet should really want to fall base down, not up.

It also begs the question of, even if they make it in to the spring itself, will they get stuck sideways? Not sure if you tested that at all.

When some make it to the small DAA spring they do travel down. When chores are done I’ll get some video
Yes, even with no spring they get stuck sideways in the adapter if they ever make it that far, I’m having 2 issues at the same time

[lablover]

Ok, no laughing at my video skills. One video without spring adapter one video with


https://youtu.be/H2o9-Rbj7Yk


https://youtu.be/6fONYN23Lzs

[lablover]

With the holes so small in the collater plate the bullets are very close to the edge of the plate and bowl, so they want to fall towards the outside edge of the hole. Very hard to explain and hopefully the video shows what you all need

[GWS]

So you would also get rid of the bevels around the holes as well?

I would......those short bullets are just too equal in weight distribution....they tip and go in angled. If it was mine, I'd wax, and speed up the rotation to not let them have time to tilt.

Printed new Tyler adapter...no go, they are still getting stuck even when base is down. I’ll have to try and get a video. It’s almost like the adapter is too long which makes no sense but when you see it you will understand. If I disengage the spring adaptor a little and drop it down the bullets will drop but then they get stuck sideways going down the adapter.

Like I mentioned, I’ll try and put together a detailed video which should help.

I'm thinking the adaptor is just too small to stop that tendency to go in tilted.....in fact, if the weight is equal everywhere, I'm not sure you can ever control the tilt....sort of like a ball....they go in any direction. Now if there IS a little difference, the longer it falls the tendency to right itself increases, but the hole has to be big enough for that to happen.

[TylerR]

With the holes so small in the collater plate the bullets are very close to the edge of the plate and bowl, so they want to fall towards the outside edge of the hole. Very hard to explain and hopefully the video shows what you all need

The videos help a lot. The issue looks about what I was thinking, and I was hoping a more gently tapered tube would solve the problem, but apparently not. The issue is that the bullet is hitting the outside edge of the taper first, causing it to cant in the hole and jam up. As GWS said, the longer the tube, the more gradual the taper and the less chance of it tilting on the way down. This issue is basically like a very magnified example of exactly why I made these spring adapters longer in the first place.

The only two methods I can think to fix it, would be to either elongate the adapter even further, or to have the taper actually be offset so it is more of a straight drop on the outside edge. The first option being a two second change, while the latter is a bit more work. Hope that makes sense.

[GWS]

After seeing the video.....do you have the big size adaptor to try? The video was classic, that that's EXACTLY why I had to predrop ALL my bullets. Once I did that no more hangs even at fast speeds.

I know you all are sick of me showing my pre-3d feeder, but I'm feeding .45, .40, .9mm., and .357 using a single plate, a single subplate and a single hole size. The only thing i had to change by caliber was the tubing to the press mounted feed die.

But! I had to pre-drop everything because I had NO speed control and it was quite fast.....and I saw the same binding you are experiencing over and over.

This was the fix for me: (see I first tried enlarging the drop hole and had to repair that because it didn't help at all!)

https://i.postimg.cc/R0TmTDZf/18.jpg

BUT I feed no Short bullets like yours, and that's something you gotta analyze carefully.

Looks from your videos that you have the base down in the plate holes covered....that's a big start....now open up the drops.

Including videos using the above for both .45's and .357's using BIG HOLES! and enough plate tilt to hold both size bullets on the back sides of the holes.

https://vimeo.com/325351774 Notice the hang from the sweeper catching a bullet just right? The flipper on the 3d collators is way better.....I need to figure a way to do that on my old collator.....just one more 3d printed project to figure out!;) I LOVE the freedom 3d printing gives! So much easier when it can fabricate while I do something else!
https://vimeo.com/325351083This video stops early because I had a proximity sensor to turn it off once the tubes were full....

One more thing I had to do on mine......I carved a depression in the side of the base surround....don't know that it would be necessary on yours but it's an option.....
https://i.postimg.cc/G271WTYm/17.jpg

[TylerR]

After see the video.....do you have the big size adaptor to try? The video was classic, that that's EXACTLY why I had to predrop ALL my bullets. Once I did that no more hangs even at fast speeds.

I know you all are sick of me showing my pre-3d feeder, but I'm feeding .45, .40, .9mm., and .357 using a single plate, a single subplate and a single hole size. The only thing i had to change by caliber was the tubing to the press mounted feed die.

But! I had to pre-drop everything because I had NO speed control and it was quite fast.....and I saw the same binding you are experiencing over and over.



Hey I never get sick of seeing a solution that works. The pre-drop is something I am still playing with, but it is a change to the main body which takes days to print, so anything I come up with I want to be rock solid.

Lablover, I know you are sick of printing the same parts over and over (welcome to the club), but if you want to give it a go I just posted an even longer version of the adapter. It tapers from 7.5mm to 5mm over a 35mm distance. That is a pretty subtle taper. I could go even longer if you want.

The only other thing I can suggest is like what GWS said above. If you need to file a small rounded section right on the outside edge to make sure bullets are not leaning on that right as they fall in the hole that may help as well.

[lablover]

Hey, I’m game to try anything. I’ll print the new adapter and give it a go and see what happens. I like GWS ideas as well. Will try the new adapter first. Hell, I’d print an entire new feeder if I had to. I shoot that .32 a lot in bullseye matches. Damn, 3k gun. I load or try to lots of .32

I’ll report back later today
Thanks for the help Gents

[TylerR]

Hey, I’m game to try anything. I’ll print the new adapter and give it a go and see what happens. I like GWS ideas as well. Will try the new adapter first. Hell, I’d print an entire new feeder if I had to. I shoot that .32 a lot in bullseye matches. Damn, 3k gun. I load or try to lots of .32

I’ll report back later today
Thanks for the help Gents

Hold off before you print anything. I have one more thought I want to try.

OK its back up. I basically made the top come to a completely sharp edge. If you have to use an exacto and make it so there is zero lip at the transition from the drop hole to the spring adapter. I also lowered it so it will sit 1mm below the surface of the main body.

[GWS]

The only other thing I can suggest is like what GWS said above. If you need to file a small rounded section right on the outside edge to make sure bullets are not leaning on that right as they fall in the hole that may help as well.

If you do think that would help, since you might find filler behind it eventually, JB Weld works great as a filler and mender. Just apply and sand to blend it in. On my black base I just used black india ink on a paper towel to color it to blend in.

[TylerR]

If you do think that would help, since you might find filler behind it eventually, JB Weld works great as a filler and mender. Just apply and sand to blend it in. On my black base I just used black india ink on a paper towel to color it to blend in.

I suspect it is part of the problem. If you watch the video the first thing the bullet does when it hits the drop hole is lean inwards away from the outside wall. That tells me it is hanging on a very small lip there, so getting rid of that should at least help.

[lablover]

New print will start shortly..got held up a bit. Should be printing in a few

[lablover]

I suspect it is part of the problem. If you watch the video the first thing the bullet does when it hits the drop hole is lean inwards away from the outside wall. That tells me it is hanging on a very small lip there, so getting rid of that should at least help.

I agree with both of you. I just loaded the new design and by looking at it it was exactly why I tried to acomplish with hacking the top off the one original spring adapter. High hopes. I do notice I have to slow the collator plate quite a bit to give those feather weight bullets time to drop. I'm printing at .12 so may be a few hours but worth the wait. Cant tell you guys how much I appreciate the help. Like I mentioned earlier it's my most loaded round for competition and worst case is I use APP tubes on the Tyler die. BTW, the .32 Die works like a charm.

[TylerR]

I just posted yet another version of the small spring adapter. This one is basically the same as the large adapter, it just funnels down to the smaller spring. So there is no section that inserts up in to the main body.

[GWS]

It's kinda funny.....the hardest one I had to figure out was the opposite end of the spectrum......the stupid giant .45 Gold Dot 230's. Each has it's specific quirks, getting them all to work with one plate was interesting.......don't think I want to try .32 shorts on that one.....but I have to admit I'm curious whether it would work. Good thing I don't own a .32 or I'd have to try.;)

I'm getting closer to show time for my Case Feeder......redoing the proximity drop one more time. It's shorter, but the tiny .223 insert I did still fits inside.....so I think I'm going to print another for the bullet feeder too since the design is simpler and smaller.

One question for TylerR though: Did you figure out settings on the slicer to reduced stringing inside the vertical twist tube area, or is that just my waterloo to figure out on my specific slicer?

[TylerR]

It's kinda funny.....the hardest one I had to figure out was the opposite end of the spectrum......the stupid giant .45 Gold Dot 230's. Each has it's specific quirks, getting them all to work with one plate was interesting.......don't think I want to try .32 shorts on that one.....but I have to admit I'm curious whether it would work. Good thing I don't own a .32 or I'd have to try.;)

I'm getting closer to show time for my Case Feeder......redoing the proximity drop one more time. It's shorter, but the tiny .223 insert I did still fits inside.....so I think I'm going to print another for the bullet feeder too since the design is simpler and smaller.

One question for TylerR though: Did you figure out settings on the slicer to reduced stringing inside the vertical twist tube area, or is that just my waterloo to figure out on my specific slicer?

Can't wait to see what you got going on. I am very close to posting all my new APP stuff. It is working out very well so far.

The only time I get stringing on a print is if I forget to bevel a certain area, usually inside the tube, that needs to act as support for anything above it. Stringing will happen then because the printer is attempting to print on thin air. Sometimes I will get a little stringing on internal threads but only if I print at low quality.

[lablover]

I just posted yet another version of the small spring adapter. This one is basically the same as the large adapter, it just funnels down to the smaller spring. So there is no section that inserts up in to the main body.

When this one is done I’ll print the latest..can’t hurt to try em both

Also, GWS, I like your logic on the half moon you carved in the wall of the bowl. I kept thinking if the hole went under the bullet ramp that would solve my issue. I'm afraid to carve it up and then it not work for anything else. I would however have one dedicated to .32 only so I may as well try if the last 2 spring adapters don't work

[TylerR]

When this one is done I’ll print the latest..can’t hurt to try em both

Also, GWS, I like your logic on the half moon you carved in the wall of the bowl. I kept thinking if the hole went under the bullet ramp that would solve my issue. I'm afraid to carve it up and then it not work for anything else. I would however have one dedicated to .32 only so I may as well try if the last 2 spring adapters don't work

I wouldn't be too worried about filing a very small amount at the outside edge of the hole. Just don't go crazy with it. Maybe a mm or two right in the red area. On the latest version I actually made the hole so close to the edge it ends up leaving a small gap there now anyway.

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[lablover]

I wouldn't be too worried about filing a very small amount at the outside edge of the hole. Just don't go crazy with it. Maybe a mm or two right in the red area. On the latest version I actually made the hole so close to the edge it ends up leaving a small gap there now anyway.

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That’s the plan, thanks for verifying with the red circle. When you say latest version of the base..how long ago did you change that. Might of been a month or better since I printed this base

[TylerR]

That’s the plan, thanks for verifying with the red circle. When you say latest version of the base..how long ago did you change that. Might of been a month or better since I printed this base

I don't remember exactly, but if you look at the one you have is that wall right there continuous, or is there a gap? Even though 3d cad shows it as a continuous wall, it is only .002mm right there, so the slicer just acts like the wall isnt there, creating the gap.

[GWS]

When this one is done I’ll print the latest..can’t hurt to try em both

Also, GWS, I like your logic on the half moon you carved in the wall of the bowl. I kept thinking if the hole went under the bullet ramp that would solve my issue. I'm afraid to carve it up and then it not work for anything else. I would however have one dedicated to .32 only so I may as well try if the last 2 spring adapters don't work

Agree with TylerR, I wouldn't be too worried. Consider that it didn't hurt anything I threw at it, but sure helped 'em drop better. My drop tube (look at the picture is just a hint outward (used clear plastic tube), so required the wall do the same. If your circle is 100% inside then just carve that side just enough to prevent knocking the bullet inward.

But that said grind a little and test, rather than cut a lot at a time. I used a Dremel sanding cylinder on the wall, and a Trim Mate chamfer tool to sharpen the end of the plastic tube outlet. No rocket science in sight.

Again on that build, there was a proximity switch underneath, and the tube was 7/16" I.S. Diameter for everything.

Tyler said, "Maybe a mm or two right in the red area." Mine was 1/8" deep (3mm about), but that's mine. Each will require more or less.....thinking yours may be less, so don't get carried away with one deep cut.

[lablover]

Status update...we are making progress. This is with the first spring adapter Tyler adjusted..the last one he did is on the printer. They are dropping but some get hung up going down the drop tube. Pic and video. Good news is at least they are dropping. Not sure if the last one Tyler posted will be any different...will know in a little over an hour. Maybe the video and pic will help Tyler out.so so close


https://youtu.be/s8NhbZsN69w

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I cut the video too soon but you see them go sideways half way down the adapter

[lablover]

I don't remember exactly, but if you look at the one you have is that wall right there continuous, or is there a gap? Even though 3d cad shows it as a continuous wall, it is only .002mm right there, so the slicer just acts like the wall isnt there, creating the gap.

I have he gap

[TylerR]

OK, watching the new video, now I am wondering if making the taper slower is adding to the problem, not fixing it. So I just posted one more for you to try. It is a mm shorter them the body, and comes right to a sharp edge, but tapers down very quickly. Until we try it, who knows, right?

[lablover]

OK, watching the new video, now I am wondering if making the taper slower is adding to the problem, not fixing it. So I just posted one more for you to try. It is a mm shorter them the body, and comes right to a sharp edge, but tapers down very quickly. Until we try it, who knows, right?

Love the logic. Appreciate the help. Will see what the 2nd one does soon. Ver 3 may have to wait till tomorrow...wife’s giving me the evil eye....lol

Couldn't help myself....Ver 3 printing now

[TylerR]

Love the logic. Appreciate the help. Will see what the 2nd one does soon. Ver 3 may have to wait till tomorrow...wife’s giving me the evil eye....lol

Couldn't help myself....Ver 3 printing now

If that doesn't work, we will go to plan C. Offset drop hole. Will work perfect, just have to design the part so the offset sits on the outside edge.

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