Making that Bullet Collator

[stanford]

I use Th3D's EZABL Pro bed leveler on my CR10 V2 and so am using their Marlin-based firmware. I'll have to see if there is an update. I love the bed leveler, and I've seen an option to pause, but never equated that to changing filament colors midstream, only to do as Tyler just posted....replenishment. Guess I'll post a question or two there.

However, if their firmware doesn't have the autopurge as part of the pause, I love the autoleveler enough to purge by hand. Pause is enough if it comes to that.

Anuther "however"..... I have yet to find an itch strong enough to change colors in a print, but I do like having the option if I ever want it. ;)

I used to use the TH3D when I first started out, but once I got brave enough enough I started messing with marlin myself. There are some things that he didn't turn on (maybe to protect the user). Tyler will have no issues messing with marlin since he is a coder, pretty much just two files to mess with and a ton of #defines which is easy. I really like everything about the Ender5, I will probably give my cr10s away and get an ender 5 plus.

I mentioned the smart filament sensor before, with this sensor you can use all your scrap filament and once the sensor doesn't detect any filament it will park and you can insert your choice of color. I do this from time to time because I haven't found a dual extruder that I really like.

[greekman]

i have a tronxy xy-2 and just got an anycubic chiron the xy2 was my workhorse after fiddling with it for a bout a month getting it dialed in for the last 2 years it has run flawless just got the chiron but after tighting all the screws and putting a better fan duct it is doing well just bit the bullet and bought the tronxy s5a-400 kit will be putzing with that for a couple weeks i bet but will be nice once i get it worked in :)

[GWS]

i have a tronxy xy-2 and just got an anycubic chiron the xy2 was my workhorse after fiddling with it for a bout a month getting it dialed in for the last 2 years it has run flawless just got the chiron but after tighting all the screws and putting a better fan duct it is doing well just bit the bullet and bought the tronxy s5a-400 kit will be putzing with that for a couple weeks i bet but will be nice once i get it worked in :)

Most interesting....had to go look up this brand that I'd never heard of before.....great prices to be sure. I'd enjoy experimenting with a second printer......but I don't think my wife will give up her side of our combined hobby room....her sewing/quilting machine space.....;)

On the Clutch Lids.....

TylerR just posted my 2nd improved version lid/cover below his signature under contributors........Now you have two choices. He posted Ed's fancy one a few days ago. Maybe if you beg he'll get Ed to add the cannon cover to it. No separate cover on mine.....one piece plain Jane.

279266279267

One small caveat, see the little red cylinder-like glob in the back of the following picture? Support under the handle....but it's trivial...a flick of my finger and it landed over there....;) way better than the old handle pictured....as you can see.
https://i.postimg.cc/05KrqJpQ/IMG-3854.jpg

Love this TylerR #11 plate! I ended up cutting my 1-1/4" long machine screws off a little with an electrician's stripper with a bolt shear, since this picture.

[stanford]

On the Clutch Lids.....

TylerR just posted my 2nd improved version lid/cover below his signature under contributors........Now you have two choices. He posted Ed's fancy one a few days ago. Maybe if you beg he'll get Ed to add the cannon cover to it.;) No separate cover on mine.....one piece plain jane.



GWS, I am definitely going to print and use your handles. I was messing with the machine over the weekend and boy is it hard to get the plates in and out without a handle. The tolerances are so tight that the entire setup has to be right in front of you in order to get the plate up and out.

[evoevil]

is there a file to download this

[TylerR]

Go to a TylerR post.
Click on "Downloads" at the bottom of his post.
Click on "Contributors"
Click on either GWS clutch handle.stl or RedlegEd clutch ring zip file

So I finally bit the bullet and came up with my own collator plate handle. As I tend to do, I have taken great ideas from both my friends Ed and GWS. It is very much like GWS's with one exception. You have the option to connect it using the main screws that are part of the clutch, or you can just use a couple of machine screws separately. Also, being a divergent like my friend GWS, mine is designed to be printed on its side. Like this:
279025

The clutches themselves have been modified to have pre-drilled holes that line up for the machine screws.

[TylerR]

New design is out there. I did not increment the release #

[o416]

So I finally bit the bullet and came up with my own collator plate handle. As I tend to do, I have taken great ideas from both my friends Ed and GWS. It is very much like GWS's with one exception. You have the option to connect it using the main screws that are part of the clutch, or you can just use a couple of machine screws separately. Also, being a divergent like my friend GWS, mine is designed to be printed on its side. Like this:
279025

The clutches themselves have been modified to have pre-drilled holes that line up for the machine screws.

I need a raise lol

[TylerR]

I need a raise lol

Haha. Just tell em to slap it on and screw it down. lol

[TylerR]

Haha. Just tell em to slap it on and screw it down. lol

GWS already convinced me to make a minor change, so don't do anything yet.

[TylerR]

So the new lock ring will have captured nuts. No socket required. These are for #6. Metric guys will have to make due, although I suspect M3-M3.5 will work fine.

279067

[tanders]

So the new lock ring will have captured nuts. No socket required. These are for #6. Metric guys will have to make due, although I suspect M3-M3.5 will work fine.

279067

I like the captured nut idea

[RedlegEd]

So the new lock ring will have captured nuts. No socket required. These are for #6. Metric guys will have to make due, although I suspect M3-M3.5 will work fine.
279067

Hi TylerR,
Looks good! Depending how tight the socket is on the #6 nut, the M4 screw & nut will work, but will be loose. The M5 nut will fit exactly, but the M5 screw shaft will be a little too big.
Ed

[TylerR]

Picture of what I actually had in mind...so the clutch housing can help keep it from twisting off with torque...... but carry on!:)

https://i.postimg.cc/XqmrvM9h/Clutch-Ring.png

I looked at doing that GWS, but found that it was not necessary. The design is plenty strong as it is based on my testing.

[Outbreak]

Hey,
I'm trying to print the main body on a fairly standard Ender 5. Cura says it cannot be sliced. I do notice in Cura that it goes into the "Gray zone" around the edges of the print bed. Can the main body be printed on an Ender 5?

[RedlegEd]

Hey,
I'm trying to print the main body on a fairly standard Ender 5. Cura says it cannot be sliced. I do notice in Cura that it goes into the "Gray zone" around the edges of the print bed. Can the main body be printed on an Ender 5?
Hi,
Welcome to the forum. Yes, you should be able to print on an Ender 5. I believe it has a 220 x 220 printing surface, correct? I printed mine on an Ender 3, and I believe it's the same size. Check to see if your skirt is too big. That will usually push the grey "no print" boundary in too far and cause your print to fail in Cura.
Ed

[Titansfan2104]

Hey,
I'm trying to print the main body on a fairly standard Ender 5. Cura says it cannot be sliced. I do notice in Cura that it goes into the "Gray zone" around the edges of the print bed. Can the main body be printed on an Ender 5?
Yep, turn off border . Brim,skirt,raft.

[Outbreak]

thanks, guys. i had skirt turned on from a previous print. Problem solved!

[GWS]

So I finally bit the bullet and came up with my own collator plate handle. As I tend to do, I have taken great ideas from both my friends Ed and GWS. It is very much like GWS's with one exception. You have the option to connect it using the main screws that are part of the clutch, or you can just use a couple of machine screws separately. Also, being a divergent like my friend GWS, mine is designed to be printed on its side. Like this:
279025

The clutches themselves have been modified to have pre-drilled holes that line up for the machine screws.

You don't really need 4 holes do you? Depending on the bolts you use you just have to turn the handle.....right? Or does it have to do with the recessed slotted bottom somehow?

[TylerR]

You don't really need 4 holes do you? Depending on the bolts you use you just have to turn the handle.....right? Or does it have to do with the recessed slotted bottom somehow?

The 4 hoes are required depending on how the user wants to secure the handle, and how tall the screws that were used to attach the clutch.

[GWS]

Guess I'm too dense to get that. I decided to print a ring with a recess for the nuts.....it works without square nuts of course....just a little slower to screw on the nylocs that far.....but once done no difference.

https://i.postimg.cc/L6Y3zycT/IMG-3853.jpg

[TylerR]

Guess I'm too dense to get that. I decided to print a ring with a recess for the nuts.....it works without square nuts of course....just a little slower to screw on the nylocs that far.....but once done no difference.


Because you are still using the screws that are part of the clutch mechinism to connect the handle. I wanted people to have the option to use those, or some #4 machine screws instead.
Like this:
279285

OR this:
279286

[GWS]

Because you are still using the screws that are part of the clutch mechinism to connect the handle. I wanted people to have the option to use those, or some #4 machine screws instead.

I get that part, so you're saying the clutch screws will still be high enough to require a second set of holes, and the recess in the bottom too?

[TylerR]

I get that part, so you're saying the clutch screws will still be high enough to require a second set of holes, and the recess in the bottom too?

The clutch screws may be higher then the recommended 1/2" like in my second pic, in which case they will just pass through the holes. It's all about options. I don't like to limit people.

[TylerR]

The clutch screws may be higher then the recommended 1/2" like in my second pic, in which case they will just pass through the holes. It's all about options. I don't like to limit people.

No you got me messing with it. Slightly less options but cleaner? We shall see.

[TylerR]

I get that part, so you're saying the clutch screws will still be high enough to require a second set of holes, and the recess in the bottom too?

OK GWS, you convinced me. One set of holes. You can either use the recommended 1/2" #6 screws, and then machine screws (#4) to attach the handle, or you can use longer #6 screws and two extra nuts to secure it.

[Anuccite]

Sorry for the delay. Here you go.

Here is the Aluminum I used from Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-in-W-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Square-Tube/3053565

Works perfectly! Great fit. Again, the pics show just a temp setup right now. I have not even tapped the pole or feeder mounts. I did tap the main mount into the aluminum. Just slid a bolt in the pole (existing hole) under the whole setup just temporarily until I like the height and tap it. Will end up cutting off the left over aluminum.

Let me know if you have any questions.

278058
278059

Finally Got my Press in, XL750 My question how did you adapt the Drop tube to the case feeder on the machine?

[Anuccite]

Hey,
I'm trying to print the main body on a fairly standard Ender 5. Cura says it cannot be sliced. I do notice in Cura that it goes into the "Gray zone" around the edges of the print bed. Can the main body be printed on an Ender 5?

Running on Ender 3 I use a Skirt of 3mm and 10mm distance, with no issues

[Anuccite]

Finally Got my Press in, XL750 My question how did you adapt the Drop tube to the case feeder on the machine?

Hey, Never mind.... I now see the dillon tube adapter!

Wait... That's not it either.... I need from bottom of Drop Tube to Fit over Dillon Case Feeder Tube which is 18.5mm

[TylerR]

Hey, Never mind.... I now see the dillon tube adapter!

Wait... That's not it either.... I need from bottom of Drop Tube to Fit over Dillon Case Feeder Tube which is 18.5mm

The part that is out there currently uses a section of Dillon clear tube in between. I am making another version that will eliminate the need for the clear tube.

[Anuccite]

Which part does that? I'm ok with Using the tube in between
The only ones that slip into bottom of drop tube are the hornady adapters and they are too big to go over tube...... 22ish mm

[TylerR]

Which part does that? I'm ok with Using the tube in between
The only ones that slip into bottom of drop tube are the hornady adapters and they are too big to go over tube...... 22ish mm

You are correct actually. The current part goes from spring adapter to dillon clear tube. I am in the process of adding two parts. One will go from drop tube directly to the Dillon part. Working on it now so should be done in a few hours. What caliber btw?

[Anuccite]

Tyler.... This would actually be ideal.... An adapter between these two since the tube size does not change. This one is 9mm

I think unless you go Magnum, the tube is consistent 18.30 OD

279314

[TylerR]

Tyler.... This would actually be ideal.... An adapter between these two since the tube size does not change. This one is 9mm

I think unless you go Magnum, the tube is consistent 18.30 OD

279314

Yes, that is exactly what I am creating :)

[Anuccite]

Yes, that is exactly what I am creating :)

Let me know... My printer is free to test!

[TylerR]

Let me know... My printer is free to test!

Running a final test print. I have 3 adapters.

- Spring adapter -> Dillon clear tube
- Spring adapter -> Dillon insert
- Drop Tube - Dillon insert

[Master Sergeant]

Thanks!

https://youtu.be/oFGLQD8Yeu8

[TylerR]

Thanks!

https://youtu.be/oFGLQD8Yeu8

Great video. Thanks for sharing.

[TylerR]

Let me know... My printer is free to test!

New adapters are up. Let me know what you think.

[Anuccite]

New adapters are up. Let me know what you think.

Perfect, I will color match it later... Blue was in the printer. It is a very snug fit.... so i didn't push them all the way in yet

279348

[TylerR]

Perfect, I will color match it later... Blue was in the printer. It is a very snug fit.... so i didn't push them all the way in yet


Looks good. Make sure there isn't any elephants foot or other rough spots. It should fit like a glove. Like everything else it is designed to print at .12 layer height. Anything larger and the fit will be tighter.

[Anuccite]

Looks good. Make sure there isn't any elephants foot or other rough spots. It should fit like a glove. Like everything else it is designed to print at .12 layer height. Anything larger and the fit will be tighter.

I do think I printed it at .20 just to print it quick.... will print another

[TylerR]

So I got bored today and decided to create a new large body. It is 300mm internal diameter, and would require a print bed of 350mm+. It is basically the size of the Dillon case feeder. The only special part is the ramp because the curvature is so different. Every other part is compatible, including the mounts. I have not printed it myself because it is too large for my standard Ender 5, but I may eventually pick up an Ender 5 plus.

So if anyone is feeling froggy and wants to print a large collator, the two files are posted in the Downloads.
Again, disclaimer, I have not printed this base yet, but I did double check my work as far as dimensions and concentricity.

For reference here are the 3 feeders in comparison, including the original AM version.
279430

[RedlegEd]

So I got bored today and decided to create a new large body. It is 300mm internal diameter, and would require a print bed of 350mm+. It is basically the size of the Dillon case feeder. The only special part is the ramp because the curvature is so different. Every other part is compatible, including the mounts. I have not printed it myself because it is too large for my standard Ender 5, but I may eventually pick up an Ender 5 plus.

So if anyone is feeling froggy and wants to print a large collator, the two files are posted in the Downloads.
Again, disclaimer, I have not printed this base yet, but I did double check my work as far as dimensions and concentricity.

For reference here are the 3 feeders in comparison, including the original AM version.
279430

Hi TylerR!,
Interesting, but this is beginning to look a lot like the story of Goldilocks and the three bears! So now we have a "baby" size bowl, a "mama" size bowl, and a "papa" size bowl. On a personal level, I would never use anything bigger than your current body, and then it would be for cases. I'll probably stick to the original AM version for bullets simply because of my reloading practices, I don't need a much larger volume of bullets. I'm guessing the collator plates would also have to be enlarged, otherwise you'll have too much of a gap between the wall and the plate.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi TylerR!,
Interesting, but this is beginning to look a lot like the story of Goldilocks and the three bears! So now we have a "baby" size bowl, a "mama" size bowl, and a "papa" size bowl. On a personal level, I would never use anything bigger than your current body, and then it would be for cases. I'll probably stick to the original AM version for bullets simply because of my reloading practices, I don't need a much larger volume of bullets. I'm guessing the collator plates would also have to be enlarged, otherwise you'll have too much of a gap between the wall and the plate.
Ed

Haha, yes that is true. Although I have nothing to do with the "baby" bowl. lol
I really was just bored and figured you know what, lets create a case feeder the same sized as Dillon. It would really shine for people looking to feed lots of larger cases, like 30-06 and such.
The best part is with the exception of the ramp, every other part is compatible. But yes the plates themselves would be printed at 298mm or so.

[greekman]

279450279451



hey tyler

just got the 45/70 dies printed when I put the bearings in they sit at rest in the recess moving the barrel up to simulate the case entering locks it as there is no room to move up may need to move the recess up thoughts??

steve

[TylerR]

279450279451



hey tyler

just got the 45/70 dies printed when I put the bearings in they sit at rest in the recess moving the barrel up to simulate the case entering locks it as there is no room to move up may need to move the recess up thoughts??

steve

Yes, it looks like I had the recess 20mm too low. Sorry bout that. Just reposted a new version of the body.

[GWS]

Haha, yes that is true. Although I have nothing to do with the "baby" bowl. lol
I really was just bored and figured you know what, lets create a case feeder the same sized as Dillon. It would really shine for people looking to feed lots of larger cases, like 30-06 and such.
The best part is with the exception of the ramp, every other part is compatible. But yes the plates themselves would be printed at 298mm or so.

Wow! That thing makes my original Hornady Bullet feeder look small with its outside Diameter of 250mm!.....but my CR-10v2 will print it. But with its 300X300x400 bed, not your big bear......I'll have to pass. ;)

[thump_rrr]

I've been away from this thread for the last few weeks due to the arrival of my Star Lube Sizer and my Magma Caster.
I am in the process of installing my bullet feeder onto the Star lube sizer and automating the Magma Caster as we speak.
It seems that the new larger body may give me the reason I needed to add a CR-6 Max printer to the family.

[Titansfan2104]

Hi TylerR!,
Interesting, but this is beginning to look a lot like the story of Goldilocks and the three bears! So now we have a "baby" size bowl, a "mama" size bowl, and a "papa" size bowl. On a personal level, I would never use anything bigger than your current body, and then it would be for cases. I'll probably stick to the original AM version for bullets simply because of my reloading practices, I don't need a much larger volume of bullets. I'm guessing the collator plates would also have to be enlarged, otherwise you'll have too much of a gap between the wall and the plate.
Ed

I will start it today or tomorrow.
btw I'm having trouble finding the adapter from the bottom of the "brass drop chute " to the top end of the microswitch tube for the APP. FEEDER DROP -> (ADAPTER NEEDED) -> Switch drop tube -> clear APP tube -> APP

[TylerR]

I will start it today or tomorrow.
btw I'm having trouble finding the adapter from the bottom of the "brass drop chute " to the top end of the microswitch tube for the APP. FEEDER DROP -> (ADAPTER NEEDED) -> Switch drop tube -> clear APP tube -> APP

If you are trying to mount a micro switch drop tube directly under the collator, you would need to use the "Drop_Hole_Drop_Tube_Adapter" to interface the two. If you are going to use a proximity or led sensor, you could use one of my shorter "Drop_Tube_Alt_X".

If it were me I would just go Spring -> Drop Tube -> APP Clear Tube
This video shows the setup I am talking about.

https://vimeo.com/517852456

[Titansfan2104]

If you are trying to mount a micro switch drop tube directly under the collator, you would need to use the "Drop_Hole_Drop_Tube_Adapter" to interface the two. If you are going to use a proximity or led sensor, you could use one of my shorter "Drop_Tube_Alt_X".

If it were me I would just go Spring -> Drop Tube -> APP Clear Tube
This video shows the setup I am talking about.
https://vimeo.com/517852456

OK why does an embeded vimeo not allow you to go full screen?
Ok so you use a spring to the clear APP tube.
I have it to the point you do in your video. Im dropping 223 brass, so I'm looking to get the collator to the assembly like you have in the video
That drop hole to drop tube is what I'm looking for. I overlooked it b but thought it would be in my generated parts list

[TylerR]

Ok so you use a spring to the clear APP tube.
I have it to the point you do in your video. Im dropping 223 brass, so I'm looking to g feet the collator to the assembly like you have in the video

For brass you would attach the "Brass_Slide_Plate" and "Brass_Drop_Hole_Adapter" to the collator. Then you would use spring adapters to go from that to the drop tube.

[silahtar]

If you are trying to mount a micro switch drop tube directly under the collator, you would need to use the "Drop_Hole_Drop_Tube_Adapter" to interface the two. If you are going to use a proximity or led sensor, you could use one of my shorter "Drop_Tube_Alt_X".

If it were me I would just go Spring -> Drop Tube -> APP Clear Tube
This video shows the setup I am talking about.
https://vimeo.com/517852456

OK why does an embeded vimeo not allow you to go full screen?

I'm working on this as well for .308 brass. Do Lee's clear tube sits directly inside the calibre-specific APP Insert? It is a bit too wobbly, almost needs an adaptor.

[TylerR]

I'm working on this as well for .308 brass. Do Lee's clear tube sits directly inside the calibre-specific APP Insert? It is a bit too wobbly, almost needs an adaptor.

You will have to test it yourself but not wobbly for me at all.

[GWS]

If you are trying to mount a micro switch drop tube directly under the collator, you would need to use the "Drop_Hole_Drop_Tube_Adapter" to interface the two. If you are going to use a proximity or led sensor, you could use one of my shorter "Drop_Tube_Alt_X".

If it were me I would just go Spring -> Drop Tube -> APP Clear Tube
This video shows the setup I am talking about.
https://vimeo.com/517852456

OK why does an embeded vimeo not allow you to go full screen?

You get two choices at the menu....video link or embed code.
Click the video link, not the embed code? Like this:
https://vimeo.com/467593703

Then it actually takes you to the the Vimeo site where you can make it full screen by clicking "Vimeo" on the link, then full screen.

[silahtar]

You will have to test it yourself but not wobbly for me at all.

Maybe I'm missing something; according to the manual third option reads as below;

3. Main Bracket → Insert → APP Drop Tube → APP Drop Tube Adapter → Drop Tube

No 3-4 Drop tube Adaptor and APP Clear Tube mates perfectly, APP Drop Tube feels wobbly when inserted into the Insert; see couple pictures hope they capture what I mean;

279517279518

I realise Offset Connector mates with APP Drop tubes nicely as well, just not sure if any of those will work with 308 brass, I noticed No.12 doesn't work...

[TylerR]

Maybe I'm missing something; according to the manual third option reads as below;

3. Main Bracket → Insert → APP Drop Tube → APP Drop Tube Adapter → Drop Tube

No 3-4 Drop tube Adaptor and APP Clear Tube mates perfectly, APP Drop Tube feels wobbly when inserted into the Insert; see couple pictures hope they capture what I mean;

I realise Offset Connector mates with APP Drop tubes nicely as well, just not sure if any of those will work with 308 brass, I noticed No.12 doesn't work...

I went back and checked it in 3d cad, and you are correct, for some reason that adapter was at 7.5 not 7.25mm. I fixed it and its reposting now.
The #15 offset connector will feed .308 brass.

[Titansfan2104]

I've built 2 of these in the last 3 weeks. One with a photo eye and one with microswitch. The MS is gonna be tough to get with light weight brass. It's probably better suited for bullets. The prox switch will probably be implemented instead of either of these. But im loving these things, even though I haven't really used them yet
https://vimeo.com/523330542

[Anuccite]

So I got bored today and decided to create a new large body. It is 300mm internal diameter, and would require a print bed of 350mm+. It is basically the size of the Dillon case feeder. The only special part is the ramp because the curvature is so different. Every other part is compatible, including the mounts. I have not printed it myself because it is too large for my standard Ender 5, but I may eventually pick up an Ender 5 plus.

So if anyone is feeling froggy and wants to print a large collator, the two files are posted in the Downloads.
Again, disclaimer, I have not printed this base yet, but I did double check my work as far as dimensions and concentricity.

For reference here are the 3 feeders in comparison, including the original AM version.
279430

I like it.... But I'm not sure I am ready for the Ender 5 Plus. The idea of having a larger Case feeder without purchasing it... is intriguing.

That being said.... If you work out the slide plates for normal Case up.... I will download it and maybe even send it to my "ender5plus" friend to print for me... As far as a "bullet" feeder.... It's too big for my needs

[TylerR]

I like it.... But I'm not sure I am ready for the Ender 5 Plus. The idea of having a larger Case feeder without purchasing it... is intriguing.

That being said.... If you work out the slide plates for normal Case up.... I will download it and maybe even send it to my "ender5plus" friend to print for me... As far as a "bullet" feeder.... It's too big for my needs


All the existing slide plates should be compatible.

We got a guy on Discord printing it as we speak. He is going to be our guinee pig. lol

[SuperMoose]

Hey guys. Quick question about the wiring for all of this. I'm having trouble getting the switch integrated and functioning.

So far, I've been able to successfully wire up the motor, speed controller, and micro switch and have them all function correctly. When I add the switch itself, the switch lights up but activating it does nothing. Any ideas?

For the wiring, I have the negative of the power to the brass prong on the switch and then the furthest pole (out of three) to the negative power in on the speed controller (with the middle prong on the switch empty).

I'm attaching a picture. Ignore the color wires, they're just to test everything out to make sure I have it right before building it properly.

Just to make sure it is easy to see what is what.

Negative from power to brass color pole on switch.
Positive from power to positive power in on speed controller.
Third pole from switch to negative power in on speed controller.
Positive power out from speed controller to motor.
Negative power out from speed controller to C on micro switch.
NC on micro switch to negative on motor.

As I said, if I pulled the switch out of the equation and run the positive and negative from power directly to the speed controller, everything functions as it should.

https://i.imgur.com/xQ7IyTH.jpg

[Assnolax]

Have you tested the switch with a meter? Not unheard for them to be duds. I can't read the markings from the picture but I believe those switches have Power, Load and Ground, and you would only run the ground for the little led to work. I always run the switch on the positive lead but I don't think that should make a difference in this case if you don't care about the little led light.

[TylerR]

Hey guys. Quick question about the wiring for all of this. I'm having trouble getting the switch integrated and functioning.

So far, I've been able to successfully wire up the motor, speed controller, and micro switch and have them all function correctly. When I add the switch itself, the switch lights up but activating it does nothing. Any ideas?

For the wiring, I have the negative of the power to the brass prong on the switch and then the furthest pole (out of three) to the negative power in on the speed controller (with the middle prong on the switch empty).

I'm attaching a picture. Ignore the color wires, they're just to test everything out to make sure I have it right before building it properly.

Just to make sure it is easy to see what is what.

Negative from power to brass color pole on switch.
Positive from power to positive power in on speed controller.
Third pole from switch to negative power in on speed controller.
Positive power out from speed controller to motor.
Negative power out from speed controller to C on micro switch.
NC on micro switch to negative on motor.

As I said, if I pulled the switch out of the equation and run the positive and negative from power directly to the speed controller, everything functions as it should.


That is not how a led switch works. The negative pole on the switch needs to just be connected to 12 volt negative. That is to get the led to light up when the switch is on. The outer positive is 12 volt positive in. The middle pole is 12 volt positive out, which would be connected to the speed controller 12 volt positive in. The speed controller negative in is connected directly to the 12 volt negative power supply.

[SuperMoose]

That is not how a led switch works. The negative pole on the switch needs to just be connected to 12 volt negative. That is to get the led to light up when the switch is on. The outer positive is 12 volt positive in. The middle pole is 12 volt positive out, which would be connected to the speed controller 12 volt positive in. The speed controller negative in is connected directly to the 12 volt negative power supply.

Got it. That fixed my issue.

Thanks!

[TylerR]

Got it. That fixed my issue.

Thanks!

Awesome! good to hear you got it working.

[McCrower]

I have 3D printed Ammo Mikes bullet feeder version, but it doesn't work with my favourite cast bullet, the Lee 125RF (https://leeprecision.com/6-cav-358-125-rf.html). Has anyone on this forum testet TylerR's bullet feeder with this bullet? I want to be able to use a bullet feeder for nose down feeding to my Lee APP bulletsizing press..

Thanks
McCrower
Norway

[RedlegEd]

I have 3D printed Ammo Mikes bullet feeder version, but it doesn't work with my favourite cast bullet, the Lee 125RF (https://leeprecision.com/6-cav-358-125-rf.html). Has anyone on this forum testet TylerR's bullet feeder with this bullet? I want to be able to use a bullet feeder for nose down feeding to my Lee APP bulletsizing press..

Thanks
McCrower
Norway
Hello and welcome to Cast Boolits!
First, I would ask if you have tried printing different collator plates using the openSCAD Collator Plate tool? Also, have you tried different flip plates? Which version of the AM collator are you using? The bullet yo reference has a rather large meplat, so it will take some careful tuning, both with the flipper plate, as well as setting the angle. I use the AM version on for my Lee APP and .45 ACP SWC. I've found with a flat nose, you have to be a little more careful and try different things.
Ed

[McCrower]

Thank you Ed.

What haven't I tried with the AM feeder. I use the version found below this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HznohMfdH6M
Have tried different flip plates and collator plates, tried to make them thicker and thinner and so on. I have given up the poject, but maybe the TylerR collator is a bit different and will work with the 125RF bullet?

[TylerR]

Thank you Ed.

What haven't I tried with the AM feeder. I use the version found below this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HznohMfdH6M
Have tried different flip plates and collator plates, tried to make them thicker and thinner and so on. I have given up the poject, but maybe the TylerR collator is a bit different and will work with the 125RF bullet?

If you can capture some video of the failures and post it I might be able to offer suggestions on whether my design would work better or not.

[Qeyes]

I have 3D printed Ammo Mikes bullet feeder version, but it doesn't work with my favourite cast bullet, the Lee 125RF (https://leeprecision.com/6-cav-358-125-rf.html). Has anyone on this forum testet TylerR's bullet feeder with this bullet? I want to be able to use a bullet feeder for nose down feeding to my Lee APP bulletsizing press..

Thanks
McCrower
Norway

I tested 20 bullets the same as you asked about.
In TayloR`s collator and it worked well

[McCrower]

I tested 20 bullets the same as you asked about.
In TayloR`s collator and it worked well

Thanks Qeyes. Did you test with the actual Lee 125rf bullet? Sounds like it's worth trying out ther TylerR collator then :)

[Qeyes]

Yes I did

[GWS]

Yes I did

I'll wager McCrower might love some details.... Which plate and slider used successfully would be a great start.....thanks for your posts.


On another subject.....are there any users out there besides me who use RCBS's Pro 2000 progressive press?

It's just that I hate projects that only benefit me.....there are other things you can do with 3D printers to enhance reloading than just collators and feeders. Such as ....... adding Lights and Camera, for example. ;)

I posted a video of it in the main reloading section in Castboolits Reloading.......where Pro 2000 users might see it.

[TylerR]

I'll wager McCrower might love some details.... Which plate and slider used successfully would be a great start.....thanks for your posts.


On another subject.....are there any users out there besides me who use RCBS's Pro 2000 progressive press?

It's just that I hate projects that only benefit me.....there are other things you can do with 3D printers to enhance reloading than just collators and feeders. Such as ....... adding Lights and Camera, for example.....;)

GWS I don't own that press but I love seeing how that part just slides on and locks in place. Awesome work!

[gnafin]

GWS I don't own that press but I love seeing how that part just slides on and locks in place. Awesome work!

Something like that would be nice for a dillon xl750.

[McCrower]

I'll wager McCrower might love some details.... Which plate and slider used successfully would be a great start.....thanks for your posts.

That would be great :)

Thanks.

[Qeyes]

I'll wager McCrower might love some details.... Which plate and slider used successfully would be a great start.....thanks for your posts.


On another subject.....are there any users out there besides me who use RCBS's Pro 2000 progressive press?

It's just that I hate projects that only benefit me.....there are other things you can do with 3D printers to enhance reloading than just collators and feeders. Such as ....... adding Lights and Camera, for example. ;)

I posted a video of it in the main reloading section in Castboolits Reloading.......where Pro 2000 users might see it.

Sorry Did not think about that. I use Pistol_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Small_#5 and Bullet_Nose_Down_Slide_Plate_#5

[tanders]

Hopefully in the next day or so I will be rolling out some case feed adapters for the dillon. They will directly replace the dillon adapter and allow the spring connector to link directly into it. Eliminating quite a few pieces and adapters needed. I already have a list of calibers that I plan to come out with. Please let me know if you would need a different caliber than listed and I will do my best to create it.
9mm
40 S&W
10mm
45ACP
44 Mag
380
223
300 blackout
6.5 Creedmoor
308


279803

[greekman]

Yes, it looks like I had the recess 20mm too low. Sorry bout that. Just reposted a new version of the body.

hey Tyler

Just an update I have included pics of the feeder I think we need to extend the base below the bearings to accommodate for the dropped bullet when actuated as of now the bullet drops on activation to the middle of the bullet and locks as the bearings try to reengage. also the inner barrel could be sized maybe .5mm wider to accommodate the bullet a bit more.

also including a pic of the 45 bullet slide for the app press fits good enough diameter but needs to be 12mm taller by my measure to cover the bullet for feeding.

Thanks my friend

279814

279815

279816

279818

279819

279820

279821

[silahtar]

I'll wager McCrower might love some details.... Which plate and slider used successfully would be a great start.....thanks for your posts.


On another subject.....are there any users out there besides me who use RCBS's Pro 2000 progressive press?

It's just that I hate projects that only benefit me.....there are other things you can do with 3D printers to enhance reloading than just collators and feeders. Such as ....... adding Lights and Camera, for example. ;)

I posted a video of it in the main reloading section in Castboolits Reloading.......where Pro 2000 users might see it.

Here here... But planning to give it away to a friend and get the new Pro Chucker 7, that is if I can find one...

[McCrower]

Sorry Did not think about that. I use Pistol_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Small_#5 and Bullet_Nose_Down_Slide_Plate_#5

Thanks again Qeyes. I will try those :)

[TylerR]

hey Tyler

Just an update I have included pics of the feeder I think we need to extend the base below the bearings to accommodate for the dropped bullet when actuated as of now the bullet drops on activation to the middle of the bullet and locks as the bearings try to reengage. also the inner barrel could be sized maybe .5mm wider to accommodate the bullet a bit more.

also including a pic of the 45 bullet slide for the app press fits good enough diameter but needs to be 12mm taller by my measure to cover the bullet for feeding.

Thanks my friend



I understand the issue with the die. The round you are loading is 405 grain, 25.5mm long boolit. I am not a 45-70 guy. Can you give me a rough range of what the length of these bullets are across common weights?

Regarding the 45 bullet slide, It should not be necessary to have the boolit completely covered by the slide. What does matter is the length of the insert though. Which insert were you using?

[gubrin]

Hi,

I just want to share this little handle/cover I made today for TylerRs slip clutch, I have printed it in PETG and it works perfectly in both my AM bullet feeder and Rifle Case Feeder :)

It is designed to be tapped and it replaces "slip_clutch_ring.stl".

You need openSCAD to generate stl, feel free to change it to make it work for you.

Rafal

[Sleeping Dog]

For anyone interested.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

Broken link (I think it just got outdated).
Current (as of 19 March 2021) https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xczanojq6ly3jqa/AAA5yU7iMbX_N46aC9SVfdjza?dl=0

It is also in TylerR's signature as Downloads

[greekman]

I understand the issue with the die. The round you are loading is 405 grain, 25.5mm long boolit. I am not a 45-70 guy. Can you give me a rough range of what the length of these bullets are across common weights?

Regarding the 45 bullet slide, It should not be necessary to have the boolit completely covered by the slide. What does matter is the length of the insert though. Which insert were you using?

have not tried an insert but will probably be the 45 insert

ill measure several bullets but they will be kind of all over the place they can go as low as 305 gns all the way to 500gns the 405 is among the most common size/shape

[TylerR]

have not tried an insert but will probably be the 45 insert

ill measure several bullets but they will be kind of all over the place they can go as low as 305 gns all the way to 500gns the 405 is among the most common size/shape

That is what I am wondering. If you have a 305gr boolit what is the length? How about the 500gr?

[greekman]

ok tryed some boolits on the app i see what you mean all need is to shorten the insert

may have a bigger problem on the app
the punch does not push the first boolit farr enough through for the next to be fully dropped as it is the die had to be run further down so the first would drop have to think on this problem:killingpc

[TylerR]

ok tryed some boolits on the app i see what you mean all need is to shorten the insert

may have a bigger problem on the app
the punch does not push the first boolit farr enough through for the next to be fully dropped as it is the die had to be run further down so the first would drop have to think on this problem:killingpc

Based on your issues with the .45-70 die, I think I had the same problem with the .44 mag so I am glad you brought it up.

[CS223]

Has anyone found a particular brand of filament that’s a good match for the Dillon blue?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GWS]

TylerR found the following PLA Professional that is really close......this Overture brand of PLA Professional (or Plus) is exceptional. I don't use the blue, but the black is also awesome stuff!

279876

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCPK9KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

[greekman]

take a look at this i dont have a dillon to color match but have tryed about 4kg of this stuff not top tier but for what i am using it for like the bullet feeders and parts is working excellent and the price cant be beat



https://gst3d.com/product/limited-time-offer/?fbclid=IwAR2L2-uS9Y56P0uuycj-FvSYunvvBdnVKE6wd1mxqceDzDUhKupFBx7LXaA

[Anuccite]

Has anyone found a particular brand of filament that’s a good match for the Dillon blue?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Someone here pointed me to this... It needs to be run a bit hot (I run at 220) but the color match is real close

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LDJY75F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

279884

[TylerR]

ok tryed some boolits on the app i see what you mean all need is to shorten the insert

may have a bigger problem on the app
the punch does not push the first boolit farr enough through for the next to be fully dropped as it is the die had to be run further down so the first would drop have to think on this problem:killingpc

I did post a new version of the 45-70 feed die. I wish I had some 45-70 boolits to test it but I don't.

[silahtar]

Thought I share, printed the Brass Slide Plate and Drop Hole Adaptor as one part with a resin printer using semi-transparent resin. Seems like it worked out just fine...

279923

[Sleeping Dog]

Collator plate sticking.
I'm working on my first one and having a few minor issues. The collator plate seems rough as the motor turns it. I was wondering if there was a good way to smooth edges and the bottom out to make it slide easier and catch less.

[GWS]

Check to see that there are no bolt heads or nuts sticking up proud on the base bottom or sides....especially the nuts holding on the electrical box.

If not then is the plate smooth on the bottom and the base smooth on the top. I found that base prints are smoother on top when they have at least four layers on top of fill.

Check for elephants foot spread at the first layer on the plate. If that's a problem, file or sand off, or use a sharp utility knife, then smooth with a sanding paper say 220 grit.

Also check to see if the motor mounts are tight. If they are loose.....plates can wobble and hit in places on the base...

Although I haven't personally seen it, is your plate's clearance to the base sides the same all around and enough that it doens't hit the sides

[RedlegEd]

Thought I share, printed the Brass Slide Plate and Drop Hole Adaptor as one part with a resin printer using semi-transparent resin. Seems like it worked out just fine...

279923
Hi,
That looks like it came out really nice. I don’t know anything about resin printers other than what I’ve read, so have a few questions. How are the tolerances? Also, how strong and durable are the prints as compared to PLA+? Just looking on Amazon, there don’t seem to be many color choices with resins, or am I missing something? Finally, which printer are you using?
Thanks,
Ed

[TylerR]

Thought I share, printed the Brass Slide Plate and Drop Hole Adaptor as one part with a resin printer using semi-transparent resin. Seems like it worked out just fine...

279923

Looks slick! How did you fuse the two stl's together? tinkercad or something. Also, did you use supports for the top side where the little adjuster slide goes?

[greekman]

I did post a new version of the 45-70 feed die. I wish I had some 45-70 boolits to test it but I don't.

if you would like i can send some to you have a bunch casted :)

[TylerR]

if you would like i can send some to you have a bunch casted :)

Sure, why not. All I would really need is maybe 5-10 tops. With 10 I could do a better test with the collator and everything. I'll send a PM.

[Sleeping Dog]

You can use meshmixer (opensource) to add (or subtract) meshes.

[silahtar]

Looks slick! How did you fuse the two stl's together? tinkercad or something. Also, did you use supports for the top side where the little adjuster slide goes?

Just placed them on the slicer one on top of the other with a 0.5mm intersection. Didn't use any design software to fuse them together. A tried it first time with a support, and second print without. Didn't make much difference, comes out with a bit of a curve. Took about 5 minutes to file and flatten the slider.

I'm printing with a 0.05mm resolution which is the default setting for most of these printers. As you can imagine, come out with great detail. Most parts just mates without any fitting, sometimes a bit of sandpaper needed though...

[silahtar]

Hi,
That looks like it came out really nice. I don’t know anything about resin printers other than what I’ve read, so have a few questions. How are the tolerances? Also, how strong and durable are the prints as compared to PLA+? Just looking on Amazon, there don’t seem to be many color choices with resins, or am I missing something? Finally, which printer are you using?
Thanks,
Ed

Tolerances are way better than a filament-type printer, the typical layer used is 0.05mm, which obviously produces great results... Internals of tubes etc is so smooth that don't require any acetone smoothing. This last resin I'm using is classified as "ABS Like", so thinking it will be quite strong. I have all smaller parts printed with the resin printer, nothing broke so far...

Using the first version of Elegoo Mars, good enough for most prints. Newer models have filters, but not a huge difference in resolution. I'm never bothered with the colour, you'll find 5-6 major colours and semi-transparent variations like I have in the picture.

[GWS]

You left out the important information unless I'm blind....which I'm getting closer to every day....

What printer are you using? how much did it cost? what media, and where you bought this interesting stuff?!......just a few things....maybe pandoras box but so be it....;)

[GWS]

BTW, TylerR, I'm actually getting less afraid about supports.....

On my latest projects where I made "lights & camera" for my old Pro 2000, I had to use supports extensively. It was a bit spooky, as I was picturing lots of post print scraping and sanding, I was pleasently surprised that there was.......none. Took about 30 seconds to remove 1 1/2" high, by 4" worth, and it was done....and everything fit. Big surprise.

I reposted the video where I thought there might be some interest.....I was wrong.....totally ignored! :) That's OK, I don't feel guilty not sharing.....

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?421643-Lights-and-Camera-for-Progressive-Reloading

[TylerR]

if you would like i can send some to you have a bunch casted :)

I forgot to mention, I really need one empty shell casing as well to test it.

[TylerR]

BTW, TylerR, I'm actually getting less afraid about supports.....

On my latest projects where I made "lights & camera" for my old Pro 2000, I had to use supports extensively. It was a bit spooky, as I was picturing lots of post print scraping and sanding, I was pleasently surprised that there was.......none. Took about 30 seconds to remove 1 1/2" high, by 4" worth, and it was done....and everything fit. Big surprise.

I reposted the video where I thought there might be some interest.....I was wrong.....totally ignored! :) That's OK, I don't feel guilty not sharing.....

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?421643-Lights-and-Camera-for-Progressive-Reloading

One thing I will say is that new slicers and printers handle supports far better now then when I first started out.

huh. I thought the video was cool.

[silahtar]

You left out the important information unless I'm blind....which I'm getting closer to every day....

What printer are you using? how much did it cost? what media, and where you bought this interesting stuff?!......just a few things....maybe pandoras box but so be it....;)

I'm in Canada, printer and resin was purchased from amazon.ca. Nowadays they start at about CAD300, I would suggest the Elegoo Mars Pro 2 which cost around CAD400. The one I have would be considered prior model of those that cost around 300CAD model so you'll still get far better resolution compared to a regular filament printer even when you go with the cheaper model.

Elegoo also sells resin, so I'm using their resin, they are about CAD25-30 for a 500gr bottle.

Also comes with its free slicing software, designed specifically to be used for resin printers; will alow you to carve out inside to save resin, drill holes to allow draining, etc...

[GWS]

Neat technology, but still really limited in size.....good only for the smallest parts. Someday tho...... But for now it's too pricey for what you can do with it to be that practical for us poor people. ;) It's a coming thing for sure. Thanks for the information....the 3D printers that use filament that most of us use were esoteric just a few years ago.

[Anuccite]

What size spring are you guys using for large cases (45acp, etc)? My 13 mm (1/2" brake line protector) works well for the bullets.... but not the brass

Do I just need to order the double alpha one?

[Anuccite]

Little update on my progress....

Using KC10Kevin's Mounts.... I modified it a little bit to fit my 3/4" black pipe ceiling mount. I left my square tube long, but once I have everything mocked up, I will cut it down to actual length...

Don't mind my mess, It's a work in progress....

280099
280100

[bigmike111]

Hopefully in the next day or so I will be rolling out some case feed adapters for the dillon. They will directly replace the dillon adapter and allow the spring connector to link directly into it. Eliminating quite a few pieces and adapters needed. I already have a list of calibers that I plan to come out with. Please let me know if you would need a different caliber than listed and I will do my best to create it.
9mm
40 S&W
10mm
45ACP
44 Mag
380
223
300 blackout
6.5 Creedmoor
308


279803

I would be really interested in trying these out. Do you have something for the connection at the top of the casefeeder also?

[greekman]

280157


hey all just thought i would post some pics

this is my app press setup i know i kneed to do some wiring cleanup but a work in progress :)

[greekman]

280158


this is the loadmaster setup

have run about 4k 9mm through this set up already :Fire:

[greekman]

280159


this is the l&l ap i had the hornady bullet feeder hooked up but this one works far better not near as finicky

[greekman]

280160


also not sure about anyone else i have been trying to print the slides for the ap press with the rafts but on the chiron printer i have found that a brim with supports touching build plate works far better for me had 2 successes for 12 trys with the raft have had the last to this way work well

just an option if the other way is not working for you

[SuperMoose]

Has anyone developed a mount for a mirror over the case feeder to print?

[Assnolax]

I couldn't get the APP slide printed with the raft and ended up doing a support. Worried with a brim I'd break it when yanking it off. Also. I printed the 9mm slide and feel like its too tall for my lyman 356402. Are there different height slides?

[greekman]

I couldn't get the APP slide printed with the raft and ended up doing a support. Worried with a brim I'd break it when yanking it off. Also. I printed the 9mm slide and feel like its too tall for my lyman 356402. Are there different height slides?

I also have been noticing the 9mm slide is a little tall i sent some 9mm to tyler so he can measure mine and adjust the slide it seems to only need 1 -2mm down for good function :popcorn:

[greekman]

I printed with a very thin brim broke off easily and a little 400 grit sandpaper later smooth :)

[TylerR]

I couldn't get the APP slide printed with the raft and ended up doing a support. Worried with a brim I'd break it when yanking it off. Also. I printed the 9mm slide and feel like its too tall for my lyman 356402. Are there different height slides?

What is the height of that boolit?

[TylerR]

I also have been noticing the 9mm slide is a little tall i sent some 9mm to tyler so he can measure mine and adjust the slide it seems to only need 1 -2mm down for good function :popcorn:

I got your package today. I am not sure what I was thinking on the 9mm slide. At some point I changed it from 12mm to 17mm. Way too high. I just set it at 13.5mm and will test with those 9mmHP's you sent. Can you tell me what all the other ones are. One looks like a 300BO. I also made a few tweaks to the 45-70 die based on what you sent.

[greekman]

lets see i sent 45-70 sized and powder coated and unsized raw

9mm round nose 124gn and 124gn hollow point

the others are a 160gn 300bo/30cal/308/30-06 bullet and a 230gn subsonic for 300bo

think i listed them all??

thanks tyler

[Assnolax]

What is the height of that boolit?

The lyman 356402 is .625 tall so 15.875mm

I think 13.5mm should work great.


Really appreciate all you do.

Greekman, are you running a jgy370 on some of your feeders? Have you managed to burn one out?

[TylerR]

lets see i sent 45-70 sized and powder coated and unsized raw

9mm round nose 124gn and 124gn hollow point

the others are a 160gn 300bo/30cal/308/30-06 bullet and a 230gn subsonic for 300bo

think i listed them all??

thanks tyler

You sent me some really small ones too. I didn't weigh them but they look like 55gr 5.56?

[TylerR]

lets see i sent 45-70 sized and powder coated and unsized raw

9mm round nose 124gn and 124gn hollow point

the others are a 160gn 300bo/30cal/308/30-06 bullet and a 230gn subsonic for 300bo

think i listed them all??

thanks tyler

Just re-printed the new 9mm bullet slide at 13.5mm and it works perfect for the 9mm hp's you sent me, which measure right about 13.95mm high. Next I am going to do some testing on the "160gn 300bo/30cal/308/30-06" boolit. This one is great cause I can test multiple dies with it.

fyi I did post a new version number v1.4.4

Oh I also added .2mm to the dia of the 45-70 feed die.

[greekman]

You sent me some really small ones too. I didn't weigh them but they look like 55gr 5.56?



yup thats the small ones 55gn .224 attempting to get the ever elusive AR15 load

[TylerR]

yup thats the small ones 55gn .224 attempting to get the ever elusive AR15 load

Just tried the 160gr boolit in 300BO and .308 dies and it worked well in both. Just find the right hole (thats what she said....)

[tanders]

For those that have printed the Hornady LNL case feeder and are looking for a way to hook up a case collator, This is a your solution. This will accept the Dillon case feed adapters for you to easily adapt to multiple calipers.

In the contributors folder there are dillon case feeder adapters that access a spring directly in the top.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4808238

[lesterktm]

I am trying a version created by Andrea Roccati on his youtube channel and thingiverse files. My printer is fairly small and I couldn't print many of the other larger 3d printed versions.

Here is my first testing run. Using a 15rpm motor which works well here with the bullets but with the case setup is too fast. Going to try a 6rpm motor next.
https://youtu.be/7waxCZSyEbk

Credits to Andrea Roccati
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NS7eX6uU6wI
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3438003

[greekman]

The lyman 356402 is .625 tall so 15.875mm

I think 13.5mm should work great.


Really appreciate all you do.

Greekman, are you running a jgy370 on some of your feeders? Have you managed to burn one out?

none burned out all working well sort of see notes below

I am running the jgy 360 in

12v 2rpm (great power but slow on the feeding i get ahead of it on the progressives)
12v 5rpm (not bad still a tad slow can still get ahead on progressive)
12 20rpm (to fast at 20rpm but still good enough torque when slowed down to 10rpm or so right speed light on torque)

also running the 555 frame motor (gooooobs of torque)

12v 90rpm this one was a generic from amazon ($22) the range of these motors is 12v 10rpm to 90rpm unfortunately on amazon this seller just puts the 90rpm in, the other sellers that have the 10 and 20rpm ones charge $37 plus so at 90 rpm great torque but slowing it down to 10 or so waaay low on torque

12v 10rpm (almost perfect can run 6-10 rpm i have found the best range for the feeders but $37 each

i have a 12v 10rpm jgy370 to test just have to find the time i think unless you are loading down the feeder to much this will be the best of both worlds and $10 - 18 each

[tanders]

Has anyone developed a mount for a mirror over the case feeder to print?



Yes I have one. It uses this mirror https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QT8PBPT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

[GWS]

This week's project was to convert my big and little rifle plates to a clutch version.....a bigger task than I first envisioned. I thought you guys might like a head's up, as it turned out well, once I allowed it to evolve naturally....;)

You see I didn't notice that TylerR changed the main clutch and made it tall! (I admit that I was scratching my head), but the picture below explains why it's necessary.......look at the hex motor adapter sticking up on the old one.....and that's with the bottom against the printer bed. In the collator the hex adapter sticks up even further using my Dayton motor.

https://i.postimg.cc/pLtyG28V/IMG-3859.jpg

Look at how the rings evolved.....original on the left....the red one is the one TylerR added a nut keeper to.....then in the back is a tall one I created to go with Tylers tall clutch......why? So that the handle can fit flush and there are no voids....all smooth as a baby's butt.

https://i.postimg.cc/zB3fb3m7/IMG-3862.jpg

So this is how it turned out.....

https://i.postimg.cc/dVm3gzm2/IMG-3863.jpg

And the best part? Same parts fit perfect on both small and large thin rifle plates!

https://i.postimg.cc/J0k4xgzB/IMG-3864.jpg

Red is for .223, Green is .308. Finally! My rifle case collator is finished....okay....for now I suppose...tinkering never really stops does it....

TylerR.....the tall ring was made by uploading your ring with the nut keeper (stl file) converting it to a solid then pulling the sides up flush with the nut towers....then pulling the whole face another 6mm.......that's it. (in Design Spark)

I just dropped nylocs into the two deep holes, then screwed in the 6-32 flat head machine screws (1 1/8"long), then the top nuts over the lid can be regular nuts.

https://i.postimg.cc/vBjZWMbs/IMG-3861.jpg

I was going to try out the second set of holes TylerR Provided for cap screws in the clutch body, instead of using longer machine screws and exposed nuts, but he has a different center to center on those two......so there was no choice using my handles. But for people who use his, there's that option.

[SoggyCashew]

Finally got time to print a panel that incorporates both case and bullet motor speed control for a micro switch. I also was able to alter the drop tube to fit my Lee Progressive.

[GWS]

Finally got time to print a panel that incorporates both case and bullet motor speed control for a micro switch. I also was able to alter the drop tube to fit my Lee Progressive.

very nice! I've never seen connectors like those, and meters even....what did those parts cost? Still trying to wrap my head around the curcuits needed in the box. ;) How big is the box?

BTW what Plastic are you using?.....I do like your pure glossy red. I've tried two reds and don't much like either.....

Welcome to Cast Forum and this bullet feeder thread!

[greekman]

Finally got time to print a panel that incorporates both case and bullet motor speed control for a micro switch. I also was able to alter the drop tube to fit my Lee Progressive.

great job on the loadmaster case feeder chute

do you have the stl if tyler could convert it to the standard tube that holds the light sensor it would be awesome

[SoggyCashew]

great job on the loadmaster case feeder chute

do you have the stl if tyler could convert it to the standard tube that holds the light sensor it would be awesome

I do have one for the Light and Switch.... I started out with the light and went to a switch. Attached is the .stl #10 tubes

FYI that on the shoot is a bullet counter that actually counts each "Finished" cartridge as it goes through the counter and not the motion of the handle. I made a short video of it working...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z7sgvrZ78o

[greekman]

I do have one for the Light and Switch.... I started out with the light and went to a switch. Attached is the .stl #10 tubes

FYI that on the shoot is a bullet counter that actually counts each "Finished" cartridge as it goes through the counter. I made a short video of it working...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z7sgvrZ78o

the video is a great help never thought of putting a counter on the press do you have a video of the case feeder working mine is a bit different but works ill try to post a vid of how i did it

thanks

[GWS]

The Case Feeder I've been working on, even works in a worst case scenario, using both .223 and .308......but I had to make a new part to knock over "soldiers" (see the green thing bolted to the right side of the base). To make the worst case, I stacked a tube-full of .223 cases on purpose....IOW's I placed vertically 4 cases in each plate slot.....and turned it on.


https://youtu.be/-hDs9eLVxzw

The clutch was set very loose, and it still finished in spite of reoccurring soldiers......required no push from me.....I just held the camera.

[TylerR]

The Case Feeder I've been working on, even works in a worst case scenario, using both .223 and .308......but I had to make a new part to knock over "soldiers" (see the green thing bolted to the right side of the base). To make the worst case, I stacked a tube-full of .223 cases on purpose....IOW's I placed vertically 4 cases in each plate slot.....and turned it on.

The clutch was set very loose, and it still finished in spite of reoccurring soldiers......required no push from me.....I just held the camera.

I like it. As a copy cat modification I could make my sweeper arm be further away from the slide plate/drop hole, but still have it snap in where it does now. As always, your ideas make me think on how to improve on my own.

[GWS]

You can try.....it's your rodeo. One good result, was that even screwed in and permanent, the plates easily go in and go out, and don't require me removing or even loosening it to change plates....really like that unexpected feature....

I tapered the shelf and made it thick and strong where I might have a "hard case" pun intended.....;) The leading edge worked better at a wide angle away....which kept even 4 at a time from binding....

Thinking of Ed and his 30-06's, he might want to add more holes to raise it higher. My first try failed, when they just bound up rather than tipped.....raising it cured that instantly. 308 and 223 aren't enough different in height to make any difference, but 30-06 is another matter.

https://i.postimg.cc/bNzsgSgL/Soldier-Cure.jpg

280615

[greekman]

You can try.....it's your rodeo. One good result, was that even screwed in and permanent, the plates easily go in and go out easy, and don't require me removing it to change plates....really like that unexpected feature....

I tapered the shelf and made it thick and strong where I might have a "hard case" pun intended.....;) The leading edge worked better at a wide angle away....which kept even 4 at a time from binding....

Thinking of Ed and his 30-06's, he might want to add more holes to raise it higher. My first try failed, when they just bound up rather than tipped.....raising it cured that instantly. 308 and 223 aren't enough different in height to make any difference, but 30-06 is another matter.

https://i.postimg.cc/bNzsgSgL/Soldier-Cure.jpg

cool part i was having trouble with the 223 i like it

[RedlegEd]

You can try.....it's your rodeo. One good result, was that even screwed in and permanent, the plates easily go in and go out, and don't require me removing or even loosening it to change plates....really like that unexpected feature....

I tapered the shelf and made it thick and strong where I might have a "hard case" pun intended.....;) The leading edge worked better at a wide angle away....which kept even 4 at a time from binding....

Thinking of Ed and his 30-06's, he might want to add more holes to raise it higher. My first try failed, when they just bound up rather than tipped.....raising it cured that instantly. 308 and 223 aren't enough different in height to make any difference, but 30-06 is another matter.

https://i.postimg.cc/bNzsgSgL/Soldier-Cure.jpg

Hi GWS,
Great idea and video...I'll give it a try. I should be able to modify the STL to put in two new holes for "tall" cases (i.e. .30-06, .270, etc.) Based on your video, it looks like the sweeper's most effective height is at the case neck. Did you find that to be the case?
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi GWS,
Great idea and video...I'll give it a try. I should be able to modify the STL to put in two new holes for "tall" cases (i.e. .30-06, .270, etc.) Based on your video, it looks like the sweeper's most effective height is at the case neck. Did you find that to be the case?
Ed

How about long slots instead of holes? Then the height would be adjustable for just about anything.

[GWS]

Hi GWS,
Great idea and video...I'll give it a try. I should be able to modify the STL to put in two new holes for "tall" cases (i.e. .30-06, .270, etc.) Based on your video, it looks like the sweeper's most effective height is at the case neck. Did you find that to be the case?
Ed

Ed: I was thinking more high enough to overcome the natural stability of the plate slot depth than aiming for the necks....because it can't have that for both .223 and .308 obviously....yet it works for both. IOW's the taller the brass the less vertically stable four soldiers are, so less height is necessary. I don't think you have to raise it up that tall for more unstable heights. I'd personally be more inclined with 30-06 to have it below the neck transition. Sometimes the soldiers are leaning....see the video again.

What I was shooting for was raising it up high enough to topple 4 stacked .223 soldiers easily, and see if it would be high enough for .308......it was.

My Autocad software allowed me to just slice the vertical in two heights, erase the middle, and lower the top (with the holes) to the lower slice, then combine. That was easier, because I didn't think ahead and save the center radial cylinders erased from the vertical wall.

Doing it again, I'd make the "spokes" (lines radiating from the center) and copy them up and down the sides.....THEN separate causing multiple holes.

Answering TylerR: Slots IMO would be less handy than a column of holes being harder to repeat a position.....but I guess you could find a position for a caliber and make a mark there to find the spot the next time. (but then I was born lazy)

I LOVE your clutch! That made it possible. That made it worth it having to print two more plates....:)

[GWS]

I like it. As a copy cat modification I could make my sweeper arm be further away from the slide plate/drop hole, but still have it snap in where it does now. As always, your ideas make me think on how to improve on my own.

And visa versa.....;) many thanks for all your ideas....

[TylerR]

And visa versa.....;) many thanks for all your ideas....

Absolutely! :drinks:

[Anuccite]

Up and running.... on the new 750. Just need to do some wire cleanup

280605

[TylerR]

Up and running.... on the new 750. Just need to do some wire cleanup

Oh man........ looking good!

[GWS]

Maybe a little improvement for those who want to load something longer than .223 and .308. (I had saved the radial facing circles just not the cylinders....so it was easy.)

https://i.postimg.cc/vDFt69cw/4-hole-case-deflecter.jpg

[BrianJ]

Hello guys! First post here! Been doing ALOT of reading and I think I'm reading to start trying to make my first bullet collator. After a lot of searching, I came across this thread and really appreciate all the work TylerR and the community as a whole have put in on this... (I especially love the manual with clickable links...nice touch!). There's a lot of info in this 221 page thread, but I have a few questions I wondered if some one might be able to help me with?

1. I see 2 mounting options in the Parts Generator...Dillon, and Post. I have a Mark 7 Evolution, and I believe they use the Hornady 11" case feeder. Does anyone know if the Dillon mount will work on the Hornady feeder?

2. For right now, I'll be loading 300 Blackout and 9mm. If my understanding is correct, the 300 blackout would use the small spring tube and the 9mm would use the large one...so, would I want both the small AND large spring tubes from here? https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor

3. In the manual, the ETZGMP38 motor is "highly recommended"...I understand that any of the 4 motors listed will work, but why exactly is this particular motor the highly recommended one? What benefits does it offer that the other 3 don't?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Brian

[RedlegEd]

Maybe a little improvement for those who want to load something longer than .223 and .308. (I had saved the radial facing circles just not the cylinders....so it was easy.)
https://i.postimg.cc/vDFt69cw/4-hole-case-deflecter.jpg
Hi All,
I just printed GWS' tall sweeper and installed it on my RCBS Pro Chucker 7 for .30-06 cases. Needless to say, it works great! Thanks GWS!
Ed

https://youtu.be/Wjbi74j_uc4

[GWS]

So it can work for 30-06! Great! But the big test is how it does with a lot of cases at once?

And.....I think I just learned a new trick.....I think I can share .stl files just by attaching a .zip! Who ever it was a few posts back who suggested that, Thank you! Seems to work! Somebody download it and let me know.....;)

280616

The top hole would be used for 223 and 308.

[RedlegEd]

So it can work for 30-06! Great! But the big test is how it does with a lot of cases at once?

And.....I think I just learned a new trick.....I think I can share .stl files just by attaching a .zip! Who was it a few posts back who suggested that? Seems to work. Somebody download it and let me know.....

280616
Hi GWS,
I downloaded the Zip file and opened it just fine....Easy Peasy! I'll have to give the new sweeper a more rigorous test by loading up the bowl, but the simple test I did convinced me it'll work just fine.
Ed

[greekman]

Hello guys! First post here! Been doing ALOT of reading and I think I'm reading to start trying to make my first bullet collator. After a lot of searching, I came across this thread and really appreciate all the work TylerR and the community as a whole have put in on this... (I especially love the manual with clickable links...nice touch!). There's a lot of info in this 221 page thread, but I have a few questions I wondered if some one might be able to help me with?

1. I see 2 mounting options in the Parts Generator...Dillon, and Post. I have a Mark 7 Evolution, and I believe they use the Hornady 11" case feeder. Does anyone know if the Dillon mount will work on the Hornady feeder?

2. For right now, I'll be loading 300 Blackout and 9mm. If my understanding is correct, the 300 blackout would use the small spring tube and the 9mm would use the large one...so, would I want both the small AND large spring tubes from here? https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor

3. In the manual, the ETZGMP38 motor is "highly recommended"...I understand that any of the 4 motors listed will work, but why exactly is this particular motor the highly recommended one? What benefits does it offer that the other 3 don't?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Brian

hey Brian welcome

I am by no means the master but i can help with a couple answers

not sure about the mounts have l & l ap and loadmaster

you can go with the springs from double alfa and truth be told that is the way if you want them soon
for the big try this its what i used for 9mm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV5UW4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
also if you have time for the smaller one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7b3e4c4djfP E1W truly slow about 2 months
and for the bigger spring https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000715179224.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7b3e4c4dj fPE1W

as for the motors i have had great luck with the 370's but they have been known to burn out (not mine yet) the recomended motor is a power house its the original one from d alpha also if you think you will need the torque check out the 555 be sure to get the 10rpm one if it does not say dont buy
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000715179224.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7b3e4c4dj fPE1W a bit more but not like the original it will be interesting for mounting but if you need the mounting spacers let me know (makes install of the motor better)

enjoy :Fire:

[TylerR]

Hello guys! First post here! Been doing ALOT of reading and I think I'm reading to start trying to make my first bullet collator. After a lot of searching, I came across this thread and really appreciate all the work TylerR and the community as a whole have put in on this... (I especially love the manual with clickable links...nice touch!). There's a lot of info in this 221 page thread, but I have a few questions I wondered if some one might be able to help me with?

1. I see 2 mounting options in the Parts Generator...Dillon, and Post. I have a Mark 7 Evolution, and I believe they use the Hornady 11" case feeder. Does anyone know if the Dillon mount will work on the Hornady feeder?

2. For right now, I'll be loading 300 Blackout and 9mm. If my understanding is correct, the 300 blackout would use the small spring tube and the 9mm would use the large one...so, would I want both the small AND large spring tubes from here? https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor

3. In the manual, the ETZGMP38 motor is "highly recommended"...I understand that any of the 4 motors listed will work, but why exactly is this particular motor the highly recommended one? What benefits does it offer that the other 3 don't?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Brian

Greekman did a great job of answering your questions. I will just add that the motor most people are going with right now is the 634JS. I have not heard anything negative about it so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

[NavyGreen]

Are any of the 3D collator plates compatible with Mr. Bulletfeeder?

This looks like a fun project, but I don't want to spend too much time on it. I'd rather buy a Mr. Bulletfeeder and save some money 3D printing the caliber change kits. Is that possible?

[TylerR]

Are any of the 3D collator plates compatible with Mr. Bulletfeeder?

This looks like a fun project, but I don't want to spend too much time on it. I'd rather buy a Mr. Bulletfeeder and save some money 3D printing the caliber change kits. Is that possible?

Very good question, and the only answer I can give you, is maybe? The plate generator might allow you to generate new plates. I don't own an MBF so hard for me to say.
You could break some new ground for us and try it out. :)

[TylerR]

Are any of the 3D collator plates compatible with Mr. Bulletfeeder?

This looks like a fun project, but I don't want to spend too much time on it. I'd rather buy a Mr. Bulletfeeder and save some money 3D printing the caliber change kits. Is that possible?

Just for the record, for anyone who is looking for a simple, no hassle turn key solution, MBF is the way to go.

[erwos]

Does anyone have a better JGY 370 rotor solution for the AM83 design than the one on Thingiverse? The Thingiverse rotor works, but it breaks regularly because there's just not enough meat on it for a ton of usage. Something metal would be preferable... if it means printing out a different plate (hex?), I can do that, I just want to keep this thing running.

[GWS]

If by "rotor" you mean spindle....maybe one of those plastic shaft covers over the motor shaft? If that's what you're talking about, then I see your point.....those PLA "T" shaft covers can't last long. Redleg Ed may have a experienced answer for you as he is still using the smaller AM base and plates......he does use a brass hex shaft spindle.

Seems that he may have even created a plate or two with a clutch as I'm pretty sure the latest updated plate maker can make a clutch centered plate AM size. The clutched plates have eliminated the breakage in the center caused by binding.

On my only 370 motored AM base, it just stopped rather than broke, until I could relieve the bind.....I used the hex also. But I have since gone to the big TylerR bases with big powerful motors and the new clutches eliminated the breakage problem for good. Love 'em!

[RedlegEd]

Does anyone have a better JGY 370 rotor solution for the AM83 design than the one on Thingiverse? The Thingiverse rotor works, but it breaks regularly because there's just not enough meat on it for a ton of usage. Something metal would be preferable... if it means printing out a different plate (hex?), I can do that, I just want to keep this thing running.
Hi erwos,
I believe I know what you might want/need, but please PM me so we can discuss separately.
Ed

[NavyGreen]

Very good question, and the only answer I can give you, is maybe? The plate generator might allow you to generate new plates. I don't own an MBF so hard for me to say.
You could break some new ground for us and try it out. :)
Thanks for the answer, Tyler and admirable work you have done here.

[greekman]

Hello guys! First post here! Been doing ALOT of reading and I think I'm reading to start trying to make my first bullet collator. After a lot of searching, I came across this thread and really appreciate all the work TylerR and the community as a whole have put in on this... (I especially love the manual with clickable links...nice touch!). There's a lot of info in this 221 page thread, but I have a few questions I wondered if some one might be able to help me with?

1. I see 2 mounting options in the Parts Generator...Dillon, and Post. I have a Mark 7 Evolution, and I believe they use the Hornady 11" case feeder. Does anyone know if the Dillon mount will work on the Hornady feeder?

2. For right now, I'll be loading 300 Blackout and 9mm. If my understanding is correct, the 300 blackout would use the small spring tube and the 9mm would use the large one...so, would I want both the small AND large spring tubes from here? https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor

3. In the manual, the ETZGMP38 motor is "highly recommended"...I understand that any of the 4 motors listed will work, but why exactly is this particular motor the highly recommended one? What benefits does it offer that the other 3 don't?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Brian

hey brian

if you go ahead with the project let me know i have 3 meters of both the springs if you want to cover shipping i can cut you a chunk ;)

[TylerR]

I want to throw out there that I have decided to make the APP bracket 12mm taller to account for brass all the way up to 300win mag. There will be roughly 70mm of clearance now. This does affect any existing inserts obviously. If you are good with using the current bracket and inserts, just hold on to the files you have. But if you do go to the latest release all the inserts will be 12mm too long.

[GWS]

Is this an act of sabotage to all the parts, or do you have to go back and redo all the inserts.;) or maybe just lil extensions will work? I haven't even caught up to the old one yet, so guess I'll wait a little longer to see what becomes of it all.....

BTW, I keep having .223's that stick at the bottom of the ramp.....always 55 grain.....but I figured out the cure....just a slight reshape at the point.
e stock item is on the right.....the fix on the left....no more binding with the little .223's.

See what you think TylerR. Download: 280891

TylerR, the purple horiz. face turned out to be maybe a mm high, but it doesn't seem to matter....if you make one, drop it a mm. (I will pull that face down a mm today, and repost) I did not lengthen it at all just made a 3mm high platform with an all important angle slice on the outer corner. Really works nice. I just dropped a new box of those 55's...100 bullets fed and not one fail. 100% base-down. (did use a 6-32 set screw in the back of the bullet drop insert to keep it out a little....don't know that you have to use a tap first, but I did just to make screwing it in the first time easier....done it both ways.)


https://youtu.be/Fpy5BkVMUmE

The problem with the stock part is the crack between the ramp and the slider.....the tips stick in the crack about every 4th bullet (Sierra soft points) The platform fills the crevasse that catches them.


https://youtu.be/uvBFV1FeZz8
First attempt failed....tips stick caught maybe once every 8..... the triangle facet cured that. Then a hundred straight without a miss.

So TylerR, try the .stl I posted. I was concerned a little because my slicer had to correct errors before it would slice. I have problems using DesignSpark in getting entities to snap exactly where they should go. Autocad is way more easy to get exactness......for me at least. I study every tutorial I can find on DesignSpark, but what I have doesn't work as well as what they show in the videos.....maybe it's just harder to do on a laptop....smaller 17" screen....and menu items that are to small for my eyes to see well. Did the videos help or confuse? Never heard a response.

[TylerR]

Is this an act of sabotage to all the parts, or do you have to go back and redo all the inserts.;) or maybe just lil extensions will work? I haven't even caught up to the old one yet, so guess I'll wait a little longer to see what becomes of it all.....

Haha, it is a little bit, and I did not decide this change lightly. Thing is I can always provide people with the old version if they need it. And if you download the current version you can just keep that for what you need.

With 70mm of clearance no one should ever come back and say it does not fit their caliber. Unless its 50bmg. Then you are on your own. :)

[TylerR]

Is this an act of sabotage to all the parts, or do you have to go back and redo all the inserts.;) or maybe just lil extensions will work? I haven't even caught up to the old one yet, so guess I'll wait a little longer to see what becomes of it all.....

Just to add a little more info, I designed the original to handle up to .308 since I figured most people would not be looking to process anything larger on the APP. But I have had some requests for .270 and 30-06. So I hate to mess with what's already out there, but if I am going to cause any confusion I would like to do it once and be done with it.

[BrianJ]

hey brian

if you go ahead with the project let me know i have 3 meters of both the springs if you want to cover shipping i can cut you a chunk ;)

Thanks for the offer! I already ordered from DAA...I do still need to get the list of things from amazon though...634js motor, hex coupler, ball bearings, speed controller, proximity sensor, etc. I'm stoked to get the project going. My brother has the 3D printer and I sent him the files that the parts generator generated for me. I've designed several other parts for my shooting hobby, but nothing as complex as this, so I'm excited to get started!

[kc10kevin]

Hopefully in the next day or so I will be rolling out some case feed adapters for the dillon. They will directly replace the dillon adapter and allow the spring connector to link directly into it. Eliminating quite a few pieces and adapters needed. I already have a list of calibers that I plan to come out with. Please let me know if you would need a different caliber than listed and I will do my best to create it.
9mm
40 S&W
10mm
45ACP
44 Mag
380
223
300 blackout
6.5 Creedmoor
308


279803

Thanks for posting these up! Very slick. I finally got around to printing one up and changing my config around for the case feeding. Spring too short now since the ALT tube is shorter, so almost doubled the length of the case feed adapter. I know, I'm a cheap bastard, but it works now and I don't have to buy new spring or lower my rig. :)

280731

[kc10kevin]

TylerR....just wanted to give a quick update. Everything is working great. Outstanding work!!! Just a little disappointed that I got 2 .223 bullets BND the other day. That's 2 out of about 3000. So disappointing!! :-)

Case feeding is awesome with the 9mm, .380 and .223. Have not used it yet with the 300 BO.
Bullet feeding it equally awesome!! BNU works great on all my 9mm RN (even cast) and .223, Working on the FN and .380. 300 BO in the future.

Clutches are AMAZING!!

Printed up the bullet droppers to test out. 9mm and .223, I have the DAA ones. All I can say is BRILLIANT!! They work much better than the DAA ones. I've shelved those and will be selling them. Drop perfectly every time.

Also printed up most of the Lee APP stuff. Makes the Lee APP a pleasure to work with! Still haven't tested the BND for 9mm cast stuff yet so I can quickly run them through the sizer. That will be soon.

Just wanted to say thanks for all your hard work. Hats off to you my man and if you need anything, don't hesitate to contact me.

[TylerR]

TylerR....just wanted to give a quick update. Everything is working great. Outstanding work!!! Just a little disappointed that I got 2 .223 bullets BND the other day. That's 2 out of about 3000. So disappointing!! :-)

Case feeding is awesome with the 9mm, .380 and .223. Have not used it yet with the 300 BO.
Bullet feeding it equally awesome!! BNU works great on all my 9mm RN (even cast) and .223, Working on the FN and .380. 300 BO in the future.

Clutches are AMAZING!!

Printed up the bullet droppers to test out. 9mm and .223, I have the DAA ones. All I can say is BRILLIANT!! They work much better than the DAA ones. I've shelved those and will be selling them. Drop perfectly every time.

Also printed up most of the Lee APP stuff. Makes the Lee APP a pleasure to work with! Still haven't tested the BND for 9mm cast stuff yet so I can quickly run them through the sizer. That will be soon.

Just wanted to say thanks for all your hard work. Hats off to you my man and if you need anything, don't hesitate to contact me.

Wow! That is some awesome feedback. Thank you for taking the time to share how it has all been working out. Not sure if you know or not, but there are a lot of fans of your dual mount setup.

[kc10kevin]

Wow! That is some awesome feedback. Thank you for taking the time to share how it has all been working out. Not sure if you know or not, but there are a lot of fans of your dual mount setup.

You're most welcome. Well deserved!

That's great to hear. I'm happy that some folks can get some use out of it. It seems to work good for me....I still haven't even tapped and screwed everything down. I like the fact that I can move it back and forth on the pole if I need to.

[TylerR]

Not bad at all....I keep having .223's that stick at the bottom of the ramp.....always 55 grain.....but I figured out the cure....just a slight reshape at the point.

In the picture the stock item is on the right.....the fix on the left....no more binding with the little .223's.

See what you think TylerR. Download:

TylerR, the purple horiz. face turned out to be maybe a mm high, but it doesn't seem to matter....if you make one, drop it a mm. (I will pull that face down a mm today, and repost) I did not lengthen it at all just made a 3mm high platform with an all important angle slice on the outer corner. Really works nice. I just dropped a new box of those 55's...100 bullets fed and not one fail. 100% base-down. (did use a 6-32 set screw in the back of the bullet drop insert to keep it out a little....don't know that you have to use a tap first, but I did just to make screwing it in the first time easier....done it both ways.)

The problem with the stock part is the crack between the ramp and the slider.....the tips stick in the crack about every 4th bullet (Sierra soft points) The platform fills the crevasse that catches them.

First attempt failed....tips stick caught maybe once every 8..... the triangle facet cured that. Then a hundred straight without a miss.

GWS, Can take a quick pic of your setup using that modified ramp? I just to see closeup what you got going on there.

[HAL9000]

i got some problems with 62gr .223 FMJ
on the main body (JGY370) is the ramp on the slide plate housing missing
pleas add this ramp
280837
280838

[TylerR]

i got some problems with 62gr .223 FMJ
on the main body (JGY370) is the ramp on the slide plate housing missing
pleas add this ramp

This is so weird. I feel like this is a regression bug somehow. New body added with ramp. should be up in the next 5 mins or so.

[HAL9000]

great thanks!
does anyone printed the main body mirrored? the case feeder, mounted at my xl650, is right about the center of the case tube.
but the bullet feeder, i got an offset of about 24 cm.
mirrored will be 14cm less.
sure the ramp and the slides must be printet mirrored too, but else should it work, or?280840

[BrianJ]

This is so weird. I feel like this is a regression bug somehow. New body added with ramp. should be up in the next 5 mins or so.

TylerR, Are all the bodies supposed to have this ramp? I just looked at the file for my 634JS and it doesn't have this ramp either...in fact the only file with the ramp is the ETZGMP38...I was just about to start printing the body when I saw this post...let me know...I don't want to start printing the body if it's wrong...thanks!

Brian

[BrianJ]

This is so weird. I feel like this is a regression bug somehow. New body added with ramp. should be up in the next 5 mins or so.

EDIT---I just downloaded the newest v1.4.5 files and the 634JS body has a ramp there...so I guess I'll use the newer files...

[TylerR]

So TylerR, did you try the .stl I posted? I was concerned a little because my slicer had to correct errors before it would slice. I have problems using DesignSpark in getting entities to snap exactly where they should go. Autocad is way more easy to get exactness......for me at least. I study every tutorial I can find on DesignSpark, but what I have doesn't work as well as what they show in the videos.....maybe it's just harder to do on a laptop....smaller 17" screen....and menu items that are to small for my eyes to see well. Did the videos help or confuse? Never heard a response.

Hi GWS. The videos you posted helped me greatly to understand what is going on with the small rifle bullets. Thank you. I have not actually tried your new ramp stl file, but I am rolling around in my head how to best address. Anything I come up with I want to be something that works with any bullet.

[BrianJ]

TylerR, When using the parts generator and selecting 300 BLK (nose up), it always generates a Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Long_#11.stl for the collator plate, even if I have 300 BLK selected in the collator plate generator. Are you supposed to generate the parts from the project generator tab FIRST, and then go into the collator plate generator and generate the 300 BLK collator separately, or am I doing something wrong?

Brian

[TylerR]

TylerR, When using the parts generator and selecting 300 BLK (nose up), it always generates a Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Long_#11.stl for the collator plate, even if I have 300 BLK selected in the collator plate generator. Are you supposed to generate the parts from the project generator tab FIRST, and then go into the collator plate generator and generate the 300 BLK collator separately, or am I doing something wrong?

Brian

The collator plate generator is completely independent from the parts generator. They do not talk to each other in any way. If you are loading 300bo with shorter (non subsonic) rounds, just select .308 as your options in the parts generator. The #11 plate is really more for very long bullets like subsonic 300BO and 6.5 Creedmoor. The other option is to just go in and look at the actual files for what you need.

[TylerR]

GWS, I have modified the stock ramp in a way that I believe will fix the issue with the smaller bullets, and not have any other negative effects.

[TylerR]

Am I going crazy, or did a bunch of posts just go missing?

[Macscotts56]

Has anyone had issues with the bullet feed dies fitting inside of the drop tubes? I'm trying to get the 223 feed die to insert into the drop tube and unless this is mean to be a press fit I don't see how they are supposed to fit together. The ID of the #7 drop tube is 16.06mm and the OD of the 223 fed die is 16.36mm. If these are supposed to be a press fit please let me know. I'm using an

Ender 3 V2,
Overature PLA+,
205 C extruder temp
50 C bed Temp.
0.12 layer height
I've calibrated my extruder e-steps
My print speeds are Infill, 40; wall, 30; an initial layer speed 20.

[TylerR]

Has anyone had issues with the bullet feed dies fitting inside of the drop tubes? I'm trying to get the 223 feed die to insert into the drop tube and unless this is mean to be a press fit I don't see how they are supposed to fit together. The ID of the #7 drop tube is 16.06mm and the OD of the 223 fed die is 16.36mm. If these are supposed to be a press fit please let me know. I'm using an

Ender 3 V2,
Overature PLA+,
205 C extruder temp
50 C bed Temp.
0.12 layer height
I've calibrated my extruder e-steps
My print speeds are Infill, 40; wall, 30; an initial layer speed 20.

There is a .1mm difference between the two according to 3D CAD.

280888280889

[tanders]

Has anyone had issues with the bullet feed dies fitting inside of the drop tubes? I'm trying to get the 223 feed die to insert into the drop tube and unless this is mean to be a press fit I don't see how they are supposed to fit together. The ID of the #7 drop tube is 16.06mm and the OD of the 223 fed die is 16.36mm. If these are supposed to be a press fit please let me know. I'm using an

Ender 3 V2,
Overature PLA+,
205 C extruder temp
50 C bed Temp.
0.12 layer height
I've calibrated my extruder e-steps
My print speeds are Infill, 40; wall, 30; an initial layer speed 20.

I think you either have some "elephant foot" issues happening or you need to calibrate your xy on your printer. If either of these are set correctly you could have this issue.

[Macscotts56]

Thanks for the dimensions Tyler. I ran a 20mm calibration cube just now and my X measures 20.02mm, Y 20.04mm and Z 19.94 mm. I can't believe my X and Y values would make my ID of the drop tube off by that much. I did take a couple of more readings on the ID of the drop tube and it varied from 16.06mm to about 16.24mm. I guess I will have to adjust my e-steps for both of them. Still doesn't explain why the diameter is so much smaller.

[GWS]

Am I going crazy, or did a bunch of posts just go missing?

Look at post 4422.....I just put them together in one post......easy to erase when you no longer need them. You fixed the problem so they were just taking up space and I didn't think anyone would miss them....okay TylerR did....sorry.

[TylerR]

Look at post 4422.....I just put them together in one post......easy to erase when you no longer need them. You fixed the problem so they were just taking up space and I didn't think anyone would miss them....okay TylerR did....sorry.

Thank you GWS. A lot of this project would not be where it is without your wisdom and input. I appreciate that, and want everyone to understand how this progression works. A large part of the improvements come for you and others and it's important to recognize that.

[Anuccite]

OK Fella's.... Lets talk Nuts.... and bolts...

What size Nuts and bolts are you using to put the clutch together..... I started out with M3x20 but now using the new clutch assembly my lock nut spins in the locking piece.... and i can't tighten it.

I will go buy whatever.... I just want to be able to get my clutch plates with the handle without fighting it too badly

FYI... I rolled out a quick 1300 9mm using two Feeders and KC10Kevins Mounts on my brand new Dillon XL750

[RedlegEd]

OK Fella's.... Lets talk Nuts.... and bolts...

What size Nuts and bolts are you using to put the clutch together..... I started out with M3x20 but now using the new clutch assembly my lock nut spins in the locking piece.... and i can't tighten it.

I will go buy whatever.... I just want to be able to get my clutch plates with the handle without fighting it too badly

FYI... I rolled out a quick 1300 9mm using two Feeders and KC10Kevins Mounts on my brand new Dillon XL750

Hi,
I believe the clutch was designed for #6-32 x 1/2" screws and nuts. That's what I use and they work perfectly.
Ed

[Anuccite]

Hi,
I believe the clutch was designed for #6-32 x 1/2" screws and nuts. That's what I use and they work perfectly.
Ed

Ed you are just using regular nuts, not lock nuts, right?

[greekman]

Ed you are just using regular nuts, not lock nuts, right?

i believe lock nuts but may need longer for the cover to be used

[TylerR]

i believe lock nuts but may need longer for the cover to be used

I use locknuts on mine.

[GWS]

i believe lock nuts but may need longer for the cover to be used

Since there are several flavors of clutch covers you need to let us know which clutch housing and which cover you intend to use. TylerR's clutch housing has changed height-wise in the last month too, so first measure the housing height you printed out, and which cover you want to use.

The one common factor for each of them is 6-32 machine screws, locknuts, and cover nuts. Machine screw length is another variable depending on which clutch cover....if any. The earliest clutch cover was just a cover and 1/2" machine screws were used. Then came handles to help you pull the plate out....but all of that is optional. There are optional rings too. Guess we need to post a guide to add to the guide. Or simplify and only have TylerR's choice....but then he has two......too. ;)

BTW, Nylok lock nuts are necessary somewhere ... whether in the middle or over the cover.....otherwise the machine screws will loosen. Even my early square nuts I used in early renditions of TylerR's clutch needed nyloks at the top over the cover. Since T.R. made hex reservoirs in the clutch rings, those became obsolete. So now I use nylocs in the clutch ring reservoirs and regular nuts on top of the handle........Ed's design doesn't use a separate handle, his ring .... is the handle.

Annucite......first step is get 6-32 hardware.....if you happen to have an electrical stripper, most of them have a 6/32 shear built in. That makes machine screw length the least problem easily fixed. But learn to use it: Screw in the screw from the correct side so that after the cut you unscrew the tip through the threads and preserve a starting thread. ;)

[TylerR]

Or simplify and only have TylerR's choice....but then he has two......too. ;)


I only have one version of a handle, but it can be mounted in two ways. Either longer #6 screws, or small machine screws. Or are you counting the cover for the really tall plates?

[GWS]

Yes I was! Now that you have the very tall housing, that opens up even more possibilities.....even for really short plates! Just make an extra tall ring to match and add either your handle or mine. :)

https://i.postimg.cc/hj6jdSqc/IMG_3853.jpg
Above is an early plate for me, with square nuts in the middle and nylocs on top....but with captured nut rings the next picture is how I do it now. Nylocs in the middle.
Some may not like the big centers....but I do. No struggle at all to lift a plate, on a thick plate or a thin one.

https://i.postimg.cc/XvsJYdPX/IMG-3865.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/pLtyG28V/IMG-3859.jpg

Looking at the picture above, you'll notice the hex spindle sticks up on the short housing....there are so many options, you could use the captured red ring with a nyloc....then add the green ring (original) over that, to level the field, then add a plate or if using a longer screw..... a handle secured with regular nuts. The long ring I used with TylerR's tall housing (pictured in back with the tall housing) is this:280934

Whatever you do, a clutch beats the tar out of the clutchless plates pictured behind the two new skinnies. ;)

I like and use Ed's rendition too....totally different equally effective.

https://i.postimg.cc/xCTxqCyt/IMG_3855.jpg

BTW, if you ever print out the .223 rifle bullet plate learn from my experience.....do ridges for every other hole....or the last few will be slow to drop....they just bounce from ridge to ridge until you get finally get lucky.....or give up.

TylerR's??? .... ditto .... but he has pictures of his handles......I'll let him show em off.;)

[Macscotts56]

I think you either have some "elephant foot" issues happening or you need to calibrate your xy on your printer. If either of these are set correctly you could have this issue.

I don't think my xy are off based on the calibration cube I just printed, see my post reply to Tyler. I think the problem is the slicer. I sliced the drop tube using Cura. However when I sliced a different part in Prusaslicer the printed dimensions were only off by 0.1mm not 0.4mm. Unfortunately, when I try to slice the drop tube using Prusa to verify the issue the gcode file will not print afterwards. The printer will run the autohome and bed level sequence then just sits there after completing the autolevel. I've never had an issue jumping between slicers with any part.

Any additional suggestions would be appreciated. The weird thing is the other parts I have printed for the bullet feeder don't have clearance or dimension issues.

[TylerR]

I like and use Ed's rendition too....totally different equally effective.

https://i.postimg.cc/xCTxqCyt/IMG_3855.jpg

BTW, if you ever print out the .223 rifle bullet plate learn from my experience.....do ridges for every other hole....or the last few will be slow to drop....they just bounce from ridge to ridge until you get finally get lucky.....or give up.

TylerR's??? .... ditto .... but he has pictures of his handles......I'll let him show em off.;)


There is no question, Ed's solution has the most style :)

[GWS]

Maybe I ought to do a three color .... embedded black tires with white Goodyear markings....;)

With Eds you DO have to print different height rings for different plates....finally I'm down to one set of parts for every plate thickness thanks to your tall clutch housing, and a ring that matches.

Time to show yours off......

[TylerR]

Maybe I ought to do a three color .... embedded black tires with white Goodyear markings....;)

With Eds you DO have to print different height rings for different plates....finally I'm doing one for every plate thanks to your tall clutch housing.

Time to show yours off......

Haha. I will get some pics tomorrow. Mine is more or less a copy cat of your (imagine that). Just that you can mount it using either the #6 main screws that are part of the clutch, or you can just use machine screws to attach it independent of the clutch. I will see If I can demonstrate the difference with some pics.

[GWS]

See, my very long post above is a good example of band width waste that will soon become irrelevant.....

[TylerR]

See, my very long post above is a good example of band width waste that will soon become irrelevant.....

GWS are you wasting site resources?? (Ok only ar15.com guys will get that reference)

In all honestly, stop selling yourself short. I have never read one of your posts and said "well I already knew that". Every thing you add either educates me or makes me question what I am doing. Both are equally important. Trust me there are probably new people to the thread who saw your pics and were like damn, I didn't know I could do that.

[TylerR]

So I had an amazon gift card as a "bonus" from work. Decided to go for another printer. E5+. Here it is next to its smaller cousin.

280966

[greekman]

So I had an amazon gift card as a "bonus" from work. Decided to go for another printer. E5+. Here it is next to its smaller cousin.

280966

nice going to try the new bigger main body :popcorn::holysheep

[TylerR]

nice going to try the new bigger main body :popcorn::holysheep

Heck yeah!

[greekman]

Heck yeah!

hey bud could you fit the bigger body with a 555 style motor mount was thinking of trying it myself :drinks:

[TylerR]

hey bud could you fit the bigger body with a 555 style motor mount was thinking of trying it myself :drinks:

you bet, If you want to test it. Give me a little bit and I will throw it in the downloads.

[greekman]

you bet, If you want to test it. Give me a little bit and I will throw it in the downloads.

cool thanks

[TylerR]

cool thanks

Its up there.

[TylerR]

Hello, I'm having a bit of trouble with getting my bullet side correlator working correctly. In the short video it shows the bullet fall out before the ramp and not flipping it. I have this at a 45 degree angle and using Bullet_Nose_Up_Slide_Plate_#5 for 9mm bullets.

What am I doing wrong?



Not enough angle on the feeder. Go steeper.

[greekman]

Its up there.

WOW! 54+ hour print that thing is a beast !!!

I'll check back in a few days with yall lol

:popcorn::holysheep

[TylerR]

WOW! 54+ hour print that thing is a beast !!!

I'll check back in a few days with yall lol

:popcorn::holysheep

Hoping to throw mine on tomorrow. Still debating on which motor to go with.

[Macscotts56]

I think you either have some "elephant foot" issues happening or you need to calibrate your xy on your printer. If either of these are set correctly you could have this issue.

So I've finally sorted out the reason for my ID's of holes being to small which I posted about previously. I knew PLA material would shrink and that was what was causing the ID's to be to small. I turned on the Horizontal Hole Expansion feature in Cura and for my printer I was consistently off by 0.4mm, so I set the expansion to be 0.2mm. This setting coupled with randomizing the seams fixed my ID fit issue. I'll add this as a setting change/note to be put into the manual.

[greekman]

So I've finally sorted out the reason for my ID's of holes being to small which I posted about previously. I knew PLA material would shrink and that was what was causing the ID's to be to small. I turned on the Horizontal Hole Expansion feature in Cura and for my printer I was consistently off by 0.4mm, so I set the expansion to be 0.2mm. This setting coupled with randomizing the seams fixed my ID fit issue. I'll add this as a setting change/note to be put into the manual.

wow did not know cura had a setting like that awesome digging :drinks:

[Macscotts56]

8 hours into a 48-hour print. I used blaze orange so I wouldn't lose track of my feeder :lol:281268

[TylerR]

Printing the big boy. Still got a ways to go.

281302

[GWS]

Looks huge!

Also appears you're keeping to the same motor. Good luck with the new Machine! No complaints with my Creality machine .....except their black glass beds. Those are fine for a short while, but then I had constant lifting problems. Notice that Tyler has already changed his to the green polypropylene bed right out of the gate.....as will I if I ever buy another. I appreciate Tyler's recommendation to my lifting problems. Cures them all unless you print too hot.

[TylerR]

Looks huge!

Also appears you're keeping to the same motor. Good luck with the new Machine! No complaints with my Creality machine .....except their black glass beds. Those are fine for a short while, but then I had constant lifting problems. Notice that Tyler has already changed his to the green polypropylene bed right out of the gate.....as will I if I ever buy another. I appreciate Tyler's recommendation to my lifting problems. Cures them all unless you print too hot.

It is very large. Its like owning a F350 to drive around town in, and never actually tow anything. You don't need it but its still cool. haha
Man I swear by the polypropylene beds. They just work. I had to cut this one down on my chop saw cause I couldn't find one that was 350x350.

[TylerR]

My next print has to be an off-reloading-subject. Groan! A "Clone Trooper" helmet from Clone Wars. Unthinkable on my 300x300x400 CR10v2. A Grand Son has been begging for months....so I ordered some white Overture PLA+. Maybe that's too big for even your machine in one piece too?..........can't say I'm looking forward to it....might should have ordered 2 rolls. Maybe your kids are smarter than that?

Or maybe you could print this one in double scale instead of the 1.5 scale illustrated below, that I did for another Grand Son.;)

So this blue monstrosity you're printing is the same size as a Dillon case feeder, right? (pun intended....;))

That helmet is pretty darn cool.

Yes it is the same size as the Dillon, and you are going to love my color scheme, as will Ed. Bet you can probably guess the two colors I will be using. :)

[McCrower]

First I must say a big thank you to TylerR and all contributors to this great bullet feeder. A great manual and smart designs.

I have printed and tried the AmmoMike bullet feeder but didn't get it to work with my favourite cast bullets, the Lee .358RF, Lee.452RF and the Lee .452RN.

Now I have printed and tested the TylerR version, and it works good with two of my favourite bullets when used for nose down feeding to my Lee APP.

But I can't get it t work with the Lee .452RF. It seems like the bullet is too short, and it jams the collatorwheel when trying to flip the bullet to nose down orientation. Is there another collatorwheel I can use or another ramp maybe? Any solutions to this problem? See picture, the left bullet is jammed.

281435

Thanks
McCrower
Norway.

[TylerR]

First I must say a big thank you to TylerR and all contributors to this great bullet feeder. A great manual and smart designs.

I have printed and tried the AmmoMike bullet feeder but didn't get it to work with my favourite cast bullets, the Lee .358RF, Lee.452RF and the Lee .452RN.

Now I have printed and tested the TylerR version, and it works good with two of my favourite bullets when used for nose down feeding to my Lee APP.

But I can't get it t work with the Lee .452RF. It seems like the bullet is too short, and it jams the collatorwheel when trying to flip the bullet to nose down orientation. Is there another collatorwheel I can use or another ramp maybe? Any solutions to this problem? See picture, the left bullet is jammed.



Those short fat boolits can definitely pose a challenge. If you look back in the thread there have been some discussion about them. You can try and tighten up the slot the boolit sits in so it has less room to go sideways. I am not sure if you have the latest ramp or not, because it was recently changed. If not you can try the new one.

[TylerR]

Here is my tribute to the blue vs green vs red reloading gear argument.

281454

[GWS]

Here is my tribute to the blue vs green vs red reloading gear argument.

281454

I'll bet it works just as good as an all blue one.......and brightens up your man cave considerably. I like it.....even with the blue in it!! :)

BTW, I tried printing a helmet part yesterday and failed.....using the white version of the Overture PLA+. Color sometimes DOES make a huge difference in a particular PLA product...... With helmets I've discovered that supports are necessary everywhere....ugh. And they better stick.....and sure enough in that print, they didn't and the PLA was globby and stringy. Frustration once again...;) Back to investigation mode.....

[RedlegEd]

Here is my tribute to the blue vs green vs red reloading gear argument.

281454

Love it!
Ed

[TylerR]

McCrower,

First off, how are things in Norway? Love to see people from overseas on here. And I hope you are finding the designs useful.
I have posted a modified .45 plate to dropbox. It has the boolit slots reduced to 11.7mm. The boolits may have a harder time getting in there, but it reduces the play and will cause it to ride farther out, thus more chance of it getting picked up by the ramp and not jamming. I also posted the latest ramp for your convenience. I hope it helps!

[TylerR]

Love it!
Ed

I won't lie, I had you and GWS in mind when I came up with it. :)

[greekman]

Here is my tribute to the blue vs green vs red reloading gear argument.

281454

Nice Tribute :twisted::drinks:

[o416]

Here is my tribute to the blue vs green vs red reloading gear argument.

281454

Huge!!!! Looks awesome :)

Video of it in action?

[r4ndy]

Came home about 20 hours into my print to see there is a lip around the bowl and a bad seam??? At first I thought that there was a gap in the Z or layer shift, but the sides of the bowl above the base seem like they are printed right on the edge of the base walls and it seems to go all the way around. Not pulling the plug at this stage but curious what people think may have caused this. Overture PLA+ at 220 / 80 on a stock Ender 5 pro with bl touch.281501

[TylerR]

Came home about 20 hours into my print to see there is a lip around the bowl and a bad seam??? At first I thought that there was a gap in the Z or layer shift, but the sides of the bowl above the base seem like they are printed right on the edge of the base walls and it seems to go all the way around. Not pulling the plug at this stage but curious what people think may have caused this. Overture PLA+ at 220 / 80 on a stock Ender 5 pro with bl touch.281501

Nothing to worry about. Let it ride.......

[r4ndy]

Thanks for the reassurance, any idea what might cause the walls of the bowl to stick out a hair like that?

[Anuccite]

This is so weird. I feel like this is a regression bug somehow. New body added with ramp. should be up in the next 5 mins or so.

I had not even noticed that, since All I have been printing is the JGY370 (Correction M634JS) base... I see the potential issue... But I will wait till it effects me before I re-print

[TylerR]

I had not even noticed that, since All I have been printing is the JGY370 (Correction M634JS) base... I see the potential issue... But I will wait till it effects me before I re-print

You could always just take a file and manually bevel that edge. Probably take about 30 seconds.

[Anuccite]

You could always just take a file and manually bevel that edge. Probably take about 30 seconds.

Where is the fun in that! [smilie=l:

[Hellbender]

Hello everyone, new guy here (but I've been a reloader since I sat on my grandpa's lap beating .38 special cases into a Lee hand die when I was 8 years old...LOL!) anyway.....
Is there a current link to the files and manual without reading all 200 pages of this thread? I've randomly been searching, but no luck.
Thanks in advance!

[Anuccite]

Hello everyone, new guy here (but I've been a reloader since I sat on my grandpa's lap beating .38 special cases into a Lee hand die when I was 8 years old...LOL!) anyway.....
Is there a current link to the files and manual without reading all 200 pages of this thread? I've randomly been searching, but no luck.
Thanks in advance!

Look at TylerR's post.... it's all in his signature

[Hellbender]

Look at TylerR's post.... it's all in his signature

Thank you Sir!

And thank you TylerR, I know how much work and time is involved for these projects!!

[shibbykins]

Been a minute since I posted anything here but it has evolved in a massive way since I built my first AM type feeder. Im waiting on mats to build units 3 and 4 and just wanna say thank you to all you dudes who have contributed to this project as a whole. Im gonna call out o416 for his fantastic work on the manual and the generator which saved me some head scratching with all the parts thats in the project file now. Keep up the good work yall.

[TylerR]

Been a minute since I posted anything here but it has evolved in a massive way since I built my first AM type feeder. Im waiting on mats to build units 3 and 4 and just wanna say thank you to all you dudes who have contributed to this project as a whole. Im gonna call out o416 for his fantastic work on the manual and the generator which saved me some head scratching with all the parts thats in the project file now. Keep up the good work yall.

Thanks guys. Good luck with the builds. If you follow o416's excellent manual you should have no issues.

[TylerR]

Just thought I would share a quick video of the latest "Mongo" collator.

https://vimeo.com/539431234

[GWS]

They are all falling base down before they even get to the ramp........is this a new method I don't know about?

Oh! Wait!......duh......cases........not bullets.

[TylerR]

They are all falling base down before they even get to the ramp........is this a new method I don't know about?

Oh! Wait!......duh......cases........not bullets.

Ha! yeah, mongo is really a case feeder. There would be no reason to load it up with bullets. Just too large.

[TylerR]

Some 300bo with the small rifle brass plate. Way more then I would put in if actually loading. more of a stress test.

https://vimeo.com/539792171

[TylerR]

Looks like someone is selling AmmoMikes version with Tom's mods on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114773042683?hash=item1ab901a5fb:g:iPMAAOSwJ9dgHYK-

[Anuccite]

TylerR

I am using Brazo's 215gr Powder coated bullet....

Not every one is turning for me when needed..... Maybe an issue with edge on my slide plate?

Here is a pic of them.... .195 at head, .309 at base

281837

And A Video...


https://youtu.be/4vkKb86QEQQ

[TylerR]

TylerR

I am using Brazo's 215gr Powder coated bullet....

Not every one is turning for me when needed..... Maybe an issue with edge on my slide plate?

Here is a pic of them.... .195 at head, .309 at base

And A Video...


It's that flat nose. A couple of things you could try. you could first try just running the feeder at less angle. If that doesn't do it, you could sand down the ridge a little bit, or you could sand the back of the plate down so it can slide in further.

[Anuccite]

It's that flat nose. A couple of things you could try. you could first try just running the feeder at less angle. If that doesn't do it, you could sand down the ridge a little bit, or you could sand the back of the plate down so it can slide in further.

Roger that! Will do....

I'll start be sanding the back on the plate so it can slide in just a little further