Making that Bullet Collator

[RedBarachetta]

Just a quick question. I am getting ready to mount the drop hole adapter to the main body. Do you guys pre-drill the holes at all, or does an M1 or M2 screw fit in nice without stripping or cracking?

[GWS]

Just a quick question. I am getting ready to mount the drop hole adapter to the main body. Do you guys pre-drill the holes at all, or does an M1 or M2 screw fit in nice without stripping or cracking?

I'm sure others have varied from my screwing in M2's directly in the holes, but they worked, tightened right up. No tapping was necessary, no cracking either. They seemed to self-tap.

[ranger391xt]

I decided that I wanted the Bullet Feeder Electronics Box mounted in a different location where it was easier to reach. I designed a mount bracket that allows it to be clamped onto either a 1” square tube, or a 1” round tube. I used M6 bolts and nuts since that is what I had on hand.

I glued my electronics box onto the mount, but have since gone back and made it where it would attach with bolts using TylerR’s mounting holes.

I can supply the files if anyone is interested.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220131/877e153cf4a2a90c5c6544d9cba30ac3.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI am interested in the mount for round tube.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Just a quick question. I am getting ready to mount the drop hole adapter to the main body. Do you guys pre-drill the holes at all, or does an M1 or M2 screw fit in nice without stripping or cracking?

No pre-drilling necessary. A machine screw will thread right in.

[GWS]

Thanks, started with RCBS Piggyback II conversion on a Rockchucker in 1994, had Pro2000 in between and now Pro Chucker 7. The only issue I have so far is that few kernels of powder tend to jump out of a 9mm case easily. Way messier compared to my Piggyback and Pro2000. So far reloaded .45ACP and .357Mag but around 12k of 9mm, no rifle rounds yet. My rifle shooting is more of a single-stage press activity...

Put this video together for a friend, ignore texts...


https://youtu.be/q8GN3JPSFBU

Attaching stl files here that I messaged you about...since I can't attach in pm's

295600

Also have stls for LED lighting if you have an interest....

https://i.postimg.cc/j2Gn6hcQ/IMG-3778.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/CLqqhWMv/IMG-3779.jpg

RCBS went setscrew crazy on that press....the die plate holddowns I replaced with brass thumbscrews as pictured above.....you only snug them (take the play out) .... PC7's have been broken from people using a wrench on those setscrews.

[mktacop]

Here are the electronics box mount files if anyone wants them.

295632

[TylerR]

Here are the electronics box mount files if anyone wants them.


I can add to contributors folder if you like.

[mktacop]

I can add to contributors folder if you like.

Sure thing sir.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Sure thing sir.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/9.%20Contributors/mktacop_Electronics_Box_Mount.zip

[silahtar]

Hi Tyler, feel free to add this one to the contributors folder as well...

295679

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler, feel free to add this one to the contributors folder as well...

Done!

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/9.%20Contributors/silahtar_Electronics_Box_Mount.zip

[acr]

Hello all! This is my first post here, and thanks for all of the R&D y'all have put into this ambitious endeavor.

Anyone care to help with diagnosing a print? I printed most of the main body parts just fine. I haven't seen this particular type of failure before. The first photo is effectively what I detached from the bed. The second is a 180 degree flip of the top surface from the bottom surface. It seems that the top layer failed to bond to the infill, but I'm not sure why. Happy to share the gcode or Cura project as well. Thanks for any insight!

295775295776

[GWS]

Can't imagine what went wrong without more info. What brand and material is your filament? What temperature was your nozzle printing at? Nozzle size? Bed temperature? Bed material? Which printer?

You said other parts printed fine? Even the base? Using the same filament and temperatures? Same slicer gcode as the good prints?

There are lots of surprises with 3D printing.....I've had a few....it gets better. The Cura using guys will be along soon, so you might post a few screen shots of at least the first couple of pages of the slicer settings......and make dang sure you didn't change anything there from first prints that worked.

[MSUICEMAN]

Was the bottom still adhered to the bed? I sorta looks like you might have had a clog of some sort for nearly a while, or some other anomaly that lead to a few layers missing, then it took a lot of spaghetti laid on top of too large of a gap until it settled and "finished" the print.

These aren't the craziest geometry or require any crazy settings.

What could do this: temporary clogs, heat creep (though usually this is fatal so it wouldn't print anymore following a clog in the hot end), cracked extruder arm (this leads to a lot of random issues and frustration).

Are you running the stock extruder? Have you run other long prints recently with success?

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[MSUICEMAN]

Another question: is the bottom before it went haywire good quality? Is it there issues there also?

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[acr]

Can't imagine what went wrong without more info. What brand and material is your filament? What temperature was your nozzle printing at? Nozzle size? Bed temperature? Bed material? Which printer?

You said other parts printed fine? Even the base? Using the same filament and temperatures? Same slicer gcode as the good prints?

There are lots of surprises with 3D printing.....I've had a few....it gets better. The Cura using guys will be along soon, so you might post a few screen shots of at least the first couple of pages of the slicer settings......and make dang sure you didn't change anything there from first prints that worked.

esun pla pro; bed at 60, nozzle at 220, bed surface is the standard synthetic magnetic mat that comes on an ender3pro. Same slicer (Cura)
I'm thinking there is more to it. I releveled just incase, (also has an auto-leveler, but I did it manually to just to be sure). I tried printing a temp tower as another test print, and it came out way worse:295781

Clearly, the temp tower didn't attach.

[acr]

On the case plate, the bottom was fine before it went crazy. Clog is possible. Nozzle is .4 from a stock ender3pro. I'll see if I can't declog. Stock extruder. I printed the main body a couple days ago, and it came out pretty much flawless. I printed the balance of the main body parts individually yesterday, and they're fine too. Very strange.

[GWS]

This link is a good one to check out. De-lamination can happen for all those reasons. For that .4 nozzle size .2mm layer height is the max height I would do for plates.....for smaller parts I like .12 mm layer height. Flow rate at 100%.

https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-delamination-tips-tricks-to-avoid-layer-separation/

New nozzle is usually the first thing I change if quality goes down....another thing to check is first layer. Visually the top of the layer should be mashed a little.....if not baby step it down a little or the first layer may not stick well.

I have never seen a top layer discolored like that one.....doesn't make me want to try that PLA brand.

[acr]

Thanks for the link -- looks like some solid info there. I cleaned the nozzle and successfully printed a temperature tower, so now I'm going again at the case plate (with periodic checking). Printing again at .2 height, same as the main body I printed previously. We'll see how it goes.

[TylerR]

Thanks for the link -- looks like some solid info there. I cleaned the nozzle and successfully printed a temperature tower, so now I'm going again at the case plate (with periodic checking). Printing again at .2 height, same as the main body I printed previously. We'll see how it goes.

I am not a 3d printing expert, but I have to agree with MSUICEMAN and GWS, it seems like maybe a clogged nozzle that then resolved itself. the middle layers of the print are just all messed up based on your pics. Not something I have ever run in to myself. Usually if I get the first 3 layers down well its a done deal.

[acr]

Thanks for your print diagnostic tips! Not 100% sure, but my suspicion was that there was a temporary clog during the print. I reprinted with roughly the same settings after cleaning and releveling, and the plate came out flawless. Let the collating commence...

[rjz5400]

I've got a couple of spring questions. I bought the linked springs in 10 12 15 mm from a few pages back, Alibaba 1 meter.

Why do people stretch them? Is it just to see the bullets travelling?
I also assume they are just bare spring steel and that's why they are oiled, but I'm planning on feeding my resizing setup so I'm going to strip that oil off. Has anyone had rusting problems with these china springs? I love in the high desert so not a lot of humidity.

That's It I guess. If I get a good setup on the xl650 to size bullets I'll share those pics...

[acr]

295872
Again. I’ve been told it looks like the start of a “heat jam.” Drop temp and try again when new PLA+ gets here.

[TylerR]

295872
Again. I’ve been told it looks like the start of a “heat jam.” Drop temp and try again when new PLA+ gets here.

Sorry to see that. must be frustrating to be that far along and the a ruined print. I have been there many times, but not with the same issue you are having. Could it be an issue with the nozzle? Maybe try swapping it out.

[MSUICEMAN]

I had a final right there too. Different failure mode though. Sorta think octoprint had a hiccup and I found the printer stopped and just sitting there. No clog, no anything. Perfect print until then. 3d printing has surprises sometimes.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Mines back to stopping mid print again too. I came back to the house after an hour and it was stopped, with a message that says add more filament. I think it's a combination of semi-clogged nozzle and bad out-of-filament sensor (the black box on top of the filament feed). A Creality design fault IMO. I can start it again and it purges a bunch of plastic then moves back to the print and starts where it left off. I've heard of people fixing the problem just by removing the sensor.....but then of course it wouldn't turn off if you really ARE out of filament.

Will replace the nozzle........again. Somebody smarter than me needs to come up with a real fix.....Creality comes to mind. The last time I had problems this way, I was retracting too far. Now I don't know what.....maybe I need to be more organized and make sure I don't have slicer models left that still retracts too much, that I mistakenly switched back to.

Telling you all this only to give you possible things to look at. Good luck.

[TylerR]

I've got a couple of spring questions. I bought the linked springs in 10 12 15 mm from a few pages back, Alibaba 1 meter.

Why do people stretch them? Is it just to see the bullets travelling?
I also assume they are just bare spring steel and that's why they are oiled, but I'm planning on feeding my resizing setup so I'm going to strip that oil off. Has anyone had rusting problems with these china springs? I love in the high desert so not a lot of humidity.

That's It I guess. If I get a good setup on the xl650 to size bullets I'll share those pics...

Yes, I do stretch mine a little so I can see what is going on inside. It is not required, and being tightly wound does have some advantages.
Many of the setups people show may be using a different spring. The DAA springs for instance are loosely wound.

I have not had any rust issues. Low humidity environment, should be no problems.
Pics are always welcome.

[RedBarachetta]

I am trying to finish up my setup. I want to do a 9mm brass collator going into a Dillon XL750. I am using KC10Kevins dual collator setup. The only missing piece is the path from the collator to the press. Should I keep the Dillon case feed tube and cut it to length, or is it better to use the spring (I have spring that is 15.5OD and 13ID)? I have my 10mm switch tube ready. I was trying to connect the drop tube to the drop hole adapter using part I "Drop_Hole_Drop_Tube_Adapter" and then I was going to cut my drop tube that came with the Dillon but I found the angle wasn't quite right. Thats why i am thinking about going with a spring instead. I can't find any good pictures on this but do you guys put the drop tube right into the press? I know this is a lot of questions in one place lol.

[TylerR]

I am trying to finish up my setup. I want to do a 9mm brass collator going into a Dillon XL750. I am using KC10Kevins dual collator setup. The only missing piece is the path from the collator to the press. Should I keep the Dillon case feed tube and cut it to length, or is it better to use the spring (I have spring that is 15.5OD and 13ID)? I have my 10mm switch tube ready. I was trying to connect the drop tube to the drop hole adapter using part I "Drop_Hole_Drop_Tube_Adapter" and then I was going to cut my drop tube that came with the Dillon but I found the angle wasn't quite right. Thats why i am thinking about going with a spring instead. I can't find any good pictures on this but do you guys put the drop tube right into the press? I know this is a lot of questions in one place lol.

Go with the spring. It takes all the work out of trying to line it up perfectly. Then the spring goes right to the drop tube. Connect the drop tube to the Dillon case feed adapter using "Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter".

[RedBarachetta]

Thanks. That's what I was after. So from the Brass_X_Drop_Hole_Adapter, I go to Spring_Adapter_13, then a piece of spring, then Spring_Adapter_13_DT, then the drop tube, then the Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter, and then into the plastic piece that came with the press. Does that sound right?

[TylerR]

Thanks. That's what I was after. So from the Brass_X_Drop_Hole_Adapter, I go to Spring_Adapter_13, then a piece of spring, then Spring_Adapter_13_DT, then the drop tube, then the Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter, and then into the plastic piece that came with the press. Does that sound right?

Yes, you nailed it.

Not sure if you saw it in the download but this is a picture of that setup with MONGO.
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BF556/Feeder/main/Images/IMG_1352.JPG

[RedBarachetta]

I don't recall seeing that off hand. Mind you I started about a month ago. Maybe it's time to go through the whole thing again.

[GWS]

Maybe you all know about this site, but I didn't. Found it to be a treasure trove of information for Creality owners:

https://www.crealityexperts.com/repair-guides

Now maybe I can fix my machine right......

I'm beginning to wonder if I didn't screw in the last nozzle change tight enough.....and it did this:

https://i.postimg.cc/8CgyFfFg/Screenshot-2022-02-08-090108.png

That would cause filament feeding problems..... If so I knew better.....

I went ahead and ordered a new hot end (minus the enclosure) from amazon for $24.....just in case and to have around if I don't need it. (got the amazon link from the link above)

[GWS]

Well......I had another evening of of bewilderment. It was just a tiny 1 hour long print that kept stopping over and over and over. I changed nozzles, I changed tubing to the hot end, I cleaned the heck out of the area above the nozzle....nothing worked. It just kept stopping and telling me to re-add filament. Then it required a purge through the nozzle (geeze I wasted a lot of filament with a lot of purges).

Then I got mad and instead of refeeding the filament for the 6th time, I changed the whole spool......doh......it worked. :evil: So looking close, I saw that the spool was poorly wound from the factory....evidently resisting the feed. Why didn't I look at that first? Maybe because that's the first badly wound spool I've ever had?

I'm glad I have a new hot end and a bunch of nozzles coming anyway.....one of the rare smart moves I made....doesn't hurt to have a hot end in reserve.

[MSUICEMAN]

What brand filament? Haven't had issues with the 6 rolls of inland I've run so far. Thinking of trying something exotic from protopasta. Maybe copper filled or something like that.

I'm currently in a good spot with my e3v2, but had all sorts of issues when I tried the EZABL. I don't know if it was a firmware or coding error. I'd level the bed manually, adjust the z offset, have it runs mesh every print.... And still have lots of issues. Seems like such a good idea. I may try it again after my frustration with it subsides.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Zyltec Gunmetal.....I think it was a fluke because I've had perfect experience with maybe 20 rolls of their products. I like and use EZABL....never had problems at all. So much easier than hand leveling and does it perfect every time. Do read about "babystepping". Each brand of filament lays down different and some needs the tip at a slightly different first layer height than others.....have no idea why. I just watch the skirt laid down and make sure it's a little bit flat on top, if not I babystep it down. That and using TylerR's choice of a bed material, I have no leveling problems.

[MSUICEMAN]

Yeah. It seems like good hardware, the engineer in me thinks like it should work well. but mine just didn't seem like it was doing what I needed it to do. The solid mounts seemed like it was a good idea too, with the ezabl. With an almost flat bed, and the correction using the EZABL to correct it seemed like a solution. I'm going to try again sometime.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[stanford]

Finally getting around to getting my setup running, how close am I in setting this up correctly? I am looking at setting up .45 nose down for resizing, so far its not looking good for me. I am using the #7 plate in the front, but I want the bullets to fall from the drop hole on the side and not the front. What am I missing here as I basically ran the generator in order to get all the files I needed to print one caliber and this is what I got.

https://youtu.be/C0y2GKqvJck


Thanks.

[MSUICEMAN]

For nose down, you use nose down slide plate in the correct size, and plug the side hole. It drops through the slide plate.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

For nose down, you use nose down slide plate in the correct size, and plug the side hole. It drops through the slide plate.


This is the answer. side hole is for nose up. check out the videos in the manual. it shows how they all work.

[stanford]

From you guys experience what do you think would be causing flat nose bullets to jam a lot and also have quite a few go down the tube in the wrong direction.

Any suggestions?


Thanks

[GWS]

Best if you be more specific....what caliber, brand, and weight of bullets.

As for jams.....you may need to slow it down a little to give them time to drop, but angle might effect that too.

If they are going down the wrong direction, you need to adjust the slide so that it allows nose down to drop into the slide to be flipped, and nose up to ride around on top of the slide to the hole.....also there is a relationship between bucket angle and slide as well. More angle allows nose up bullets to rest on the back of the holes and be less likely to fall into the lower part of the slide and be flipped.

Tyler will probably have more insight to add.

[TylerR]

From you guys experience what do you think would be causing flat nose bullets to jam a lot and also have quite a few go down the tube in the wrong direction.

Any suggestions?


Thanks

SWC's can be tricky. GWS explained most of the concepts. Another video would be helpful to troubleshoot your issue.

[stanford]

Since I am just testing I am dropping the same bullets over and over to see whats working. I am seeing where it jams a lot, then some will down the hole fine, other will be backwards etc. Let me make a video and put it up.

I am using .45 @ 230 grains for my tests.

Not sure what category to put these videos in, I have adjusted speeds, angles, sometimes I will get all going in the same direction and other times they will not.

https://youtu.be/Nzay5zqiuoI
https://youtu.be/_VSM3slp0Pk
https://youtu.be/QDBwHCCCpYg

[Tom Myers]

Since I am just testing I am dropping the same bullets over and over to see whats working. I am seeing where it jams a lot, then some will down the hole fine, other will be backwards etc. Let me make a video and put it up.

I am using .45 @ 230 grains for my tests.

Not sure what category to put these videos in, I have adjusted speeds, angles, sometimes I will get all going in the same direction and other times they will not.
https://youtu.be/Nzay5zqiuoI
https://youtu.be/_VSM3slp0Pk
https://youtu.be/QDBwHCCCpYg

Tilt the bucket back. Way back. 65 degrees or so. Let gravity hold the bullet back in the slot, so that if the bullet is base down, the base can ride along on the plate ridge, on past the drop hole and, if the bullet is nose down, the nose can slip off the plate ridge and drop into the hole

[TylerR]

Tilt the bucket back. Way back. 65 degrees or so. Let gravity hold the bullet back in the slot, so that if the bullet is base down, the base can ride along on the plate ridge, on past the drop hole and, if the bullet is nose down, the nose can slip off the plate ridge and drop into the hole

Bingo. collator should be run at 45-50 degrees tilt backwards minimum. I know this thread is huge at this point, but many of the issues you are running in to have been addressed several times.

If you understand the concept of what makes the bullet either drop, or ride past for a round trip, you can troubleshoot just about any issue. Proper plate with the right ridge. Proper angle to match. Those are the keys.

[stanford]

Tyler, I had been trying to search the thread for what I need but it's really difficult and all my searches start me on page 1. I will give it a shot in a little while and hopefully I can get it working so I can complete my project.

[stanford]

Tom and Tyler, I tried tipping it back quite a bit more and everything seemed to work a lot better. Its not perfect but I am still experimenting to see if I can get them all with the tip down consistently.

[rjz5400]

it also has been mentioned but that little hole on the back/inside or the flip plate is for a screw. you adjust the spacing of the plate by taking it out and unscrewing the head to push the plate further away from the main body, that fixed 90 % of my TC bullets getting flipped if they were already correct.

after watching the video this might not be your problem, i am always assuming everyone is doing what i'm doing, nose up for loading

[stanford]

it also has been mentioned but that little hole on the back/inside or the flip plate is for a screw. you adjust the spacing of the plate by taking it out and unscrewing the head to push the plate further away from the main body, that fixed 90 % of my TC bullets getting flipped if they were already correct.

after watching the video this might not be your problem, i am always assuming everyone is doing what i'm doing, nose up for loading

I am definitely going to have to try this later. This might also solve my issue with the jams that I have all the time.

[CS223]

I had to print a few parts today one being the spring adapters. Something I found was the large spring that I ordered from Double Alpha for the MB was 15mmOD/13MM ID and the option in the Parts Generator is for 15.5mm/13mm. I was wondering what folks were using for this spring

[TylerR]

I had to print a few parts today one being the spring adapters. Something I found was the large spring that I ordered from Double Alpha for the MB was 15mmOD/13MM ID and the option in the Parts Generator is for 15.5mm/13mm. I was wondering what folks were using for this spring

All of the springs are 2mm more OD then ID. so 15/13 is normal. The extra .5 mm is to give some room for the spring to easily fit. did you try it?

[CS223]

All of the springs are 2mm more OD then ID. so 15/13 is normal. The extra .5 mm is to give some room for the spring to easily fit. did you try it?

Not yet, wanted verification before I printed the parts. Tnx!

[rjz5400]

I am using my feeder to size cast bullets on my xl650. I've already got a couple of the kinks ironed out but more to come!!

I printed little pillars to push the boolits into the pass through sizing die and am currently just using the lee red catch cup to collect them. ill do an STL dump when i have it all figured out, im planning to make a modified drop tube with attachers to lift it up and dispense the boolit, as well as a version that accepts the smaller linked switches from the zip i got, they are very thin mechanical switches.

lastly im going to design a little arm that connects the primer tube to the bullet die so that actuated the drop rather than the "case" which is now a small pillar so it doesn't hang up in the sizing die.

I hope all that makes sense. a fun project to avoid handling the bullets individually at all!! cast in sixes, Size on the progresize, PC in bulk 4 or 500 at a time and then load with the feeders also!

[TylerR]

I am using my feeder to size cast bullets on my xl650. I've already got a couple of the kinks ironed out but more to come!!

I printed little pillars to push the boolits into the pass through sizing die and am currently just using the lee red catch cup to collect them. ill do an STL dump when i have it all figured out, im planning to make a modified drop tube with attachers to lift it up and dispense the boolit, as well as a version that accepts the smaller linked switches from the zip i got, they are very thin mechanical switches.

lastly im going to design a little arm that connects the primer tube to the bullet die so that actuated the drop rather than the "case" which is now a small pillar so it doesn't hang up in the sizing die.

I hope all that makes sense. a fun project to avoid handling the bullets individually at all!! cast in sixes, Size on the progresize, PC in bulk 4 or 500 at a time and then load with the feeders also!

Sounds like a cool project. Would love to see it in action.

[rjz5400]

here is a similar setup that inspired me, i tried to duplicate it but my 3d printed die did not trigger with the shorter narrowed cases. i'm gonna actuate it separate from the case. anyway ill update when theres something to look at.

where do people host videos anymore?

https://youtu.be/CgW2JLPoUJ8

[stanford]

Tilt the bucket back. Way back. 65 degrees or so. Let gravity hold the bullet back in the slot, so that if the bullet is base down, the base can ride along on the plate ridge, on past the drop hole and, if the bullet is nose down, the nose can slip off the plate ridge and drop into the hole

I finally got everything working properly without any jams or bullets going in the tube in the wrong direction. I had to reprint a few items at a slower rate than what I was printing before. Once printed and I tested everything was working pretty good. I just wanted to point that out since it seems like when your prints are not too good you will have issues on the collator.

And yes, I also had to tilt my bucket way back.

[TylerR]

I finally got everything working properly without any jams or bullets going in the tube in the wrong direction. I had to reprint a few items at a slower rate than what I was printing before. Once printed and I tested everything was working pretty good. I just wanted to point that out since it seems like when your prints are not too good you will have issues on the collator.

And yes, I also had to tilt my bucket way back.

Glad you got it spinning.

Can you give more detail on which parts you had to re-print, and what exactly was bad about them? Also, what resolution did you use for your prints?

[stanford]

Glad you got it spinning.

Can you give more detail on which parts you had to re-print, and what exactly was bad about them? Also, what resolution did you use for your prints?

I noticed on my collator plate there were some elephants feet on the bottom of the plate, I tried sanding them off and it didn't help much. I decided to re-print the slide plate #7 first and that made a difference, then I did the collator plate #7 again. My prints were from months ago and I didn't have the chance to built the thing as I was too busy learning how to build a cnc machine so I could cut parts to make my bullet sizer. Once I was finished with that project I came back to the collator which would sit on top of the machine and that's when my issues started.

It looks like I will have to re-print most of my parts since they were not printed with precision in mind when I first started. Everything is printed now @ .12mm and I had to lower my printing speed down to 70mm/sec which proved successful. One thing I must say is your drawings are so precise that when you print these parts you have to make sure that your machine is truly calibrated and leveled or you are going to have issues. I saw all my issues disappear once I printed out the new pieces at a slower speed, it will take longer but you wont have the headaches.

Now I have to re-print all the other calibers that I had previously done. Most people print at 50-60mm/sec, I normally print 80-90, but for this job you have to slow it down to get good prints. Your prints will take a bit longer as I mentioned but its worth it.

[RedBarachetta]

Well I have just about everything printed. I started assembling and I ran into a small snag. The micro switches I was planning on using are way too stiff and they stop the case from passing. I am now trying to decide whether I should go with a Proximity sensor or a photo cell. My only concern with the Proximity sensor is that it states it detects Fe (iron) but I make my own rounds out of lead. Will that be an issue? What do most of you prefer between the two?

[RedBarachetta]

Ok, proximity sensor it is.

[MSUICEMAN]

I used proximity because it just makes sense and easier integration for someone that wants to use it for bullets and brass.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[rjz5400]

speaking of sensors, does anyone have a link for the switch the drop tubes were originally designed for? the linked one from the files is way too small to fit in between the slots and the hole spacing is way off too.

id rather buy ones that fit, i can seem to make time to do the redesign and reprint

[rjz5400]

So I got these posts 3d printed and used my feeder to size around 1k 9mm bullets last night.
Downsides: you have to go kind of slowly so they don't fall off the posts, not crazy slow but juuuuuusssst right. Otherwise sudden stops and starts make them plop off. It's pretty easy once you get into it.

Bonus:! No finger cramps from picking out and orienting bullets, the feeder won't drop upside-down ones just a finger push let's out one at a time, because the posts only push so far it finds undersized Bullets. If the base is undersized it doesn't stick in the sizing dies so I just pluck it into the rejects pile.

I'll update with the stl later on it's basically a 9mm case I found on thingiverse with a smaller diameter top inserted. I found the best results with the die pretty high in the toolhead using the top holes for the retainer balls for 124gr tc .356"

[tdogg]

speaking of sensors, does anyone have a link for the switch the drop tubes were originally designed for? the linked one from the files is way too small to fit in between the slots and the hole spacing is way off too.

id rather buy ones that fit, i can seem to make time to do the redesign and reprint

I designed a clam shell that fit over the smaller switch that has holes to bolt in place. I also pulled apart the switch and stretched the spring to get it function without holding bullets from dropping. I may end up moving to a capacitance sensor but I need more time with this setup to fully vette it.

296660

I just registered so I could post up to say thank you to this group for all the work and detail put into this system. I just printed my first bullet feeder printed for the S1050. The detail and tools that were put together to make it "easier" to figure out what you need and how to print it are just fantastic.

So cheers to all that have contributed to this effort!

Toby

[MSUICEMAN]

So I got these posts 3d printed and used my feeder to size around 1k 9mm bullets last night.
Downsides: you have to go kind of slowly so they don't fall off the posts, not crazy slow but juuuuuusssst right. Otherwise sudden stops and starts make them plop off. It's pretty easy once you get into it.

Bonus:! No finger cramps from picking out and orienting bullets, the feeder won't drop upside-down ones just a finger push let's out one at a time, because the posts only push so far it finds undersized Bullets. If the base is undersized it doesn't stick in the sizing dies so I just pluck it into the rejects pile.

I'll update with the stl later on it's basically a 9mm case I found on thingiverse with a smaller diameter top inserted. I found the best results with the die pretty high in the toolhead using the top holes for the retainer balls for 124gr tc .356"I wonder if you could make a flexible tpu sleeve to hold bullets on the stem but fl coble enough to not get in the way of dropping or sizing.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[rjz5400]

i did use a spring loaded collar to make a little dam for the bullets but I couldnt get the dropper to reliably drop using that. its possible one that botttomed out perfectly would work but these are 100%. just a little fiddly

[TylerR]

i did use a spring loaded collar to make a little dam for the bullets but I couldnt get the dropper to reliably drop using that. its possible one that botttomed out perfectly would work but these are 100%. just a little fiddly

Have you considered switching to a proximity sensor?

[rjz5400]

Sure, for the sensing? The collar I was talking about just above was to hold bullets on the "pusher, towers"

But I like the mechanical switch, I understand it and it's very cheap (like me) lastly I have seen quite a few folks who had trouble with those too so I'll keep plugging away with the mechanical. I can also tog up an extension if I need more leverage to actuate it.

[GWS]

Sure, for the sensing? The collar I was talking about just above was to hold bullets on the "pusher, towers"

But I like the mechanical switch, I understand it and it's very cheap (like me) lastly I have seen quite a few folks who had trouble with those too so I'll keep plugging away with the mechanical. I can also tog up an extension if I need more leverage to actuate it.

I started with feeders using a mechanical switch, but my experience with it was less than stellar. I was always fiddling, having to adjust it and readjust it depending on caliber. Got sick of it and saw a project for an annealer using a prox. sensor, and I thought that might be a better, simpler, more reliable way. For me it was all the difference. The trick for me was to lean the downtubes at an angle so that the bullets (no matter what caliber or weight) would slide down against the sensor side of the downtube.....no more adjusting was necessary.

https://i.postimg.cc/VkNLJRw0/IMG-1109.jpg

Camera is angled up, but still, you can see with the needed angle on the collator base, and the downtube perpendicular to it, and the prox sensor on the down side, the little .223 bullets have to ride against the sensor and make it sense 100%. With bullets larger than .223 the smaller bullet fitting insert isn't even necessary. Just the spring adapter.

TylerR would have shaped the downtube prettier, not just a cylinder with a spring coming out, but this was made back before I was more cultured by his influence. ;)

[witz]

I am trying to determine if I want to mount my proximity sensor on the feeder body or on the bullet feeder die. This will be on a 1050, so the whole toolhead moves and I worry that extra weight of a spring full of bullets could cause long term issues with it trying to rip the adapters out of the body itself. Has anyone ever run into those issues? Also, I have printed adapters, so I can play with it both ways, but for the life of me, I cant seem to find the correct piece that would go between the bottom of the spring adapter to connect to the top of the dropper die if I have the sensor at the top.

[TylerR]

I am trying to determine if I want to mount my proximity sensor on the feeder body or on the bullet feeder die. This will be on a 1050, so the whole toolhead moves and I worry that extra weight of a spring full of bullets could cause long term issues with it trying to rip the adapters out of the body itself. Has anyone ever run into those issues? Also, I have printed adapters, so I can play with it both ways, but for the life of me, I cant seem to find the correct piece that would go between the bottom of the spring adapter to connect to the top of the dropper die if I have the sensor at the top.

I would say definitely try it out and see what works best. To go from the spring adapter directly to the feed die you would want one of the "Spring_Drop_Tube_X" files in the adapters folder.

[GWS]

I am trying to determine if I want to mount my proximity sensor on the feeder body or on the bullet feeder die. This will be on a 1050, so the whole toolhead moves and I worry that extra weight of a spring full of bullets could cause long term issues with it trying to rip the adapters out of the body itself. Has anyone ever run into those issues? Also, I have printed adapters, so I can play with it both ways, but for the life of me, I cant seem to find the correct piece that would go between the bottom of the spring adapter to connect to the top of the dropper die if I have the sensor at the top.

https://i.postimg.cc/3J95xfb0/IMG_3948.jpg

Spring_Drop_Tube_Medium.stl pictured above, found in "adapters". Of course there's a Large, Small, and an Extra Large one too.

Picture below is the feeder dies, the Spring_Drop_Tubes and Spring adapters.

https://i.postimg.cc/5y7rg0fx/IMG-1112.jpg

Before you get confused, the black part at the other end of one of the springs is a home depot plumbing part (1/2" CPVC coupler) I only use on my Hornady pistol bullet feeder modded to flip bullets, before I found 3d printers. ;) A lot of grief went in to that conversion....3d printing is so much easier and cheaper, but it works really well, so it'll stay put on my bench, along with all the stuff TylerR made me print!:)

These printed bullet dies work a lot better than the ones that came with the Hornady. A LOT BETTER!

[witz]

I would say definitely try it out and see what works best. To go from the spring adapter directly to the feed die you would want one of the "Spring_Drop_Tube_X" files in the adapters folder.
Thank you for the clearification.

I thought it is was those based on the doc, but with a small/med/large it didnt really make sense to me since the droppers are all the same size at the top. Between your comments and GWS' about using the medium, I think I will try those.

It might be that I use the sensor on the dropper die on all but the 223. I worry about those being so small that they might not get detected. I know GWS had to tilt his so that they aways rid the sensor side. Those are so light though, the stress on the feeder will be much less than if I had a spring full of 44 or 45 bullets.

[witz]

Thank you for the clarification. The medium is what i need. I have all the other parts ready to go. This will be a much cleaner solution than the switch.

[TylerR]

Spring_Drop_Tube_Medium.stl pictured above, found in "adapters". Of course there's a Large, Small, and an Extra Large one too.

Picture below is the feeder dies, the Spring_Drop_Tubes and Spring adapters.
Before you get confused, the black part at the other end of one of the springs is a home depot plumbing part I use on my Hornady pistol bullet feeder modded to flip bullets, before I found 3d printers. ;) A lot of grief went in to that one....3d printing is so much easier and cheaper, but it works really well, so it'll stay put on my bench, along with all the stuff TylerR made me print!:)

These printed bullet dies work a lot better than the ones that came with the Hornady. A LOT BETTER!

did you ever think to be a photographer?

[TylerR]

Thank you for the clearification.

I thought it is was those based on the doc, but with a small/med/large it didnt really make sense to me since the droppers are all the same size at the top. Between your comments and GWS' about using the medium, I think I will try those.

It might be that I use the sensor on the dropper die on all but the 223. I worry about those being so small that they might not get detected. I know GWS had to tilt his so that they aways rid the sensor side. Those are so light though, the stress on the feeder will be much less than if I had a spring full of 44 or 45 bullets.

GWS's solution of running the angle on the tube to always have it hit the sensor is very smart. My parts handle it a slightly different way, by matching the drop tube closely to the caliber. And of course the recommended sensor has good detection range.

[GWS]

did you ever think to be a photographer? Not even once.:) For me, it's more fun to design homes and commercial buildings. I don't often tell people to examine my illustrations, but the red one above was hurried....and out of focus. A real photographer wouldn't allow such a thing to be shown in public.


GWS's solution of running the angle on the tube to always have it hit the sensor is very smart. My parts handle it a slightly different way, by matching the drop tube closely to the caliber. And of course the recommended sensor has good detection range.

Well that worked except in the case of .223. For that I made the insert with the curved hole inside....to again get that tiny bullet as close as possible to the sensor. But the real reason for an insert was to keep the .223's from overlapped stacking in the big tube which clogged the tube. You remember how fast I used to try to collate. That was just a curiousity....to see how and if fast was possible. I'm over that.

Bottom line really, was that I was trying to do as much as possible with one sensor and tee.......it took you to think of using a slip-over tee and caliber specific down tubes! Now that was smart. That said, you'd be surprised how many calibers work well in the same collator plate and downtube. I found that out in my Hornady project with pistol bullets, and found it out again when I used one of your collators and pistol case plates to collate flawlessly, .357, 9mm, .40s&w, and .45acp CASES ..... only changing the down tube to feed my Homemade semi auto case feeder shuttle! A real time saver for a press that had no case feeder made for it....something the older you get the more you appreciate.

[GWS]

I am trying to determine if I want to mount my proximity sensor on the feeder body or on the bullet feeder die. This will be on a 1050, so the whole toolhead moves and I worry that extra weight of a spring full of bullets could cause long term issues with it trying to rip the adapters out of the body itself. Has anyone ever run into those issues? .......

I didn't address that question. I see your point on the 1050. In my case, on the more conventional moving progressives, is was easy to limit the length of the spring tubes, and so I have no problems with the Hornady collator feeding them even in large calibers. Old pre-3d printer bench picture illustrates:

https://i.postimg.cc/YCZvWrV2/IMG-3199.jpg

You can see the sensor screwed into a 1/2" CPVC Tee between clear plastic tubing out of the Hornady....the distance to my Pro 2000 minimal....
https://i.postimg.cc/J03JP8Sm/45-from-switch-to-the-die.jpg

Then later wanting to feed .223 rifle out of TylerR's 3d printed design to my new Pro Chucker 7, the distance is immense in comparison:

https://i.postimg.cc/cCjvMVRf/IMG-3633.jpg

Even on my setup, where the spring doesn't move large pistol bullets might be more of a problem....luckily I don't use the PC7 for pistol.

The 1050 I've never seen in action close up, so I'm not much help, but it appears you would need to have the bullet feeder higher above the press than was necessary (or possible) on mine. My bench is under a 7' ceiling furred under heat ducts.....so risers and tall feeders aren't an option most of you have.

I show you all these pictures to show that the conventional placement of everything is NOT cast in stone. You may have to think outside the box.....especially with the moving die plate on your wonderful machine.

[Minger714]

Good Morning. I'm trying to print off the files, but I'm getting a corrupt file prompt. I've tried to download the files again, but I'm getting the same warning.

Files like the bullet down slide plate, pistol brass collator plate small and big, etc.

Is anyone else having issues?

[GWS]

On TylerR's github, click the green box "code" then download the Zip file for the whole project.......then unzip on your computer..... pick and choose what you want to see and/or print.

[Minger714]

On TylerR's github, click the green box "code" then download the Zip file for the whole project.......then unzip on your computer..... pick and choose what you want to see and/or print.

That worked, Thanks! I didn't even know that was an option and downloaded everything individually the first time.

[stanford]

One thing that really aggravates me is one minute everything seems to be spinning properly, no jams or anything to ruin your mood. Then all of a sudden you are constantly getting jams right when the cast bullet is about to drop down the tube. I have looked and looked to see what could be causing the jams, did a little sanding to smoothen out the areas and still nothing seems to work.

Have some of you guys dealt with the constant jams and how did you resolve it?


Thanks

[TylerR]

One thing that really aggravates me is one minute everything seems to be spinning properly, no jams or anything to ruin your mood. Then all of a sudden you are constantly getting jams right when the cast bullet is about to drop down the tube. I have looked and looked to see what could be causing the jams, did a little sanding to smoothen out the areas and still nothing seems to work.

Have some of you guys dealt with the constant jams and how did you resolve it?


Thanks

I absolutely have, and to be honest it could be a lot of different things. Without being able to see what the jam looks like I can only guess. Are there multiple bullets involved in the jam? Is it being jammed by the collator plate? Is the bullet(s) getting caught on the spring, or somewhere in the spring adapter? Can you capture the issue on video and post?

Edited: what bullets are you loading? nose up or down?

[stanford]

I absolutely have, and to be honest it could be a lot of different things. Without being able to see what the jam looks like I can only guess. Are there multiple bullets involved in the jam? Is it being jammed by the collator plate? Is the bullet(s) getting caught on the spring, or somewhere in the spring adapter? Can you capture the issue on video and post?

Edited: what bullets are you loading? nose up or down?

Maybe this can shed some light, I am stumped. There is a pretty steep angle on the machine, I have adjusted a bit on the angles to see what works best.

https://youtu.be/hBKuPorA3RM

[TylerR]

Maybe this can shed some light, I am stumped. There is a pretty steep angle on the machine, I have adjusted a bit on the angles to see what works best.

https://youtu.be/hBKuPorA3RM

A video is worth a thousand words. really.

The issue is too much angle/too much ridge. My advice is less angle, and go to BND #8.

Those flat points are struggling to fall off the ridge when nose down. So they are either not falling, or falling at the last possible moment, causing a jam.

[stanford]

A video is worth a thousand words. really.

The issue is too much angle/too much ridge. My advice is less angle, and go to BND #8.

Those flat points are struggling to fall off the ridge when nose down. So they are either not falling, or falling at the last possible moment, causing a jam.


I will print out the #8 and give it a shot, will let you know tomorrow.

Thanks again for the help.

[GWS]

Know anywhere else where you can get that kind of help and service with a collator? I don't....our TylerR is one of a kind.

[stanford]

Know anywhere else where you can get that kind of help and service with a collator? I don't....our TylerR is one of a kind.


You got that right...

[stanford]

Working from home today so I have a lot of time to tinker with my project. We are at the brink of war and I need to be able to resize the thousands of cast boolits that I have so I can start loading.

After printing out the #8 and tested with the lesser angle, it seemed like I was on a roll. Then I noticed the following when it came to jams.

1. Sometimes a few slugs will get lodged into the drop hole, not sure why. Probably have to do a little sanding to smoothen out the inside.
2. The cast bullet gets lodged in at the corner of the collator plate causing a jam (pics added). I slowed down the speed to test but it didn't change.

There were a couple more I noticed but I don't remember off the top of my head.


296757
296756

[TylerR]

Working from home today so I have a lot of time to tinker with my project. We are at the brink of war and I need to be able to resize the thousands of cast boolits that I have so I can start loading.

After printing out the #8 and tested with the lesser angle, it seemed like I was on a roll. Then I noticed the following when it came to jams.

1. Sometimes a few slugs will get lodged into the drop hole, not sure why. Probably have to do a little sanding to smoothen out the inside.
2. The cast bullet gets lodged in at the corner of the collator plate causing a jam (pics added). I slowed down the speed to test but it didn't change.

There were a couple more I noticed but I don't remember off the top of my head.



The drop hole looks very tight. what caliber / dia is the boolit? Which spring adapter are you using? what size is the ID/OD of the spring?

[stanford]

The drop hole looks very tight. what caliber / dia is the boolit? Which spring adapter are you using? what size is the ID/OD of the spring?

The boolit diameter is 11.49. (45 @ 230 gr)
I don't have a spring adapter connected for my testing anymore, its just dropping through the drop_hole_adapter into my hand for now. The spring adapter will normally be #12.

[TylerR]

The boolit diameter is 11.49. (45 @ 230 gr)
I don't have a spring adapter connected for my testing anymore, its just dropping through the drop_hole_adapter into my hand for now. The spring adapter will normally be #12.

It must be just the way the camera angle is or something, but when I look at the first pic you posted, the drop hole does not appear to be fully open. Can you shoot another video with a clear view in to the hole?

[stanford]

It must be just the way the camera angle is or something, but when I look at the first pic you posted, the drop hole does not appear to be fully open. Can you shoot another video with a clear view in to the hole?

Tyler, not really sure what I did or did not do but it seems to be collating without issues now. It does look like the last boolit went down the wrong direction in the video. If everything remains consistent I can now proceed with the rest of my calibers.

https://youtu.be/Ib2cLRNUdDk

As usual, appreciate the help...

[TylerR]

Tyler, not really sure what I did or did not do but it seems to be collating without issues now. It does look like the last boolit went down the wrong direction in the video. If everything remains consistent I can now proceed with the rest of my calibers.

https://youtu.be/Ib2cLRNUdDk

As usual, appreciate the help...

If basedown boolits are dropping occasionally just increase the angle slightly. finding that angle/ridge sweet spot is what its all about. Also, when you get more boolits loaded in the hopper the whole motion of the plate will be smoother. Glad its looking better!

[stanford]

If basedown boolits are dropping occasionally just increase the angle slightly. finding that angle/ridge sweet spot is what its all about. Also, when you get more boolits loaded in the hopper the whole motion of the plate will be smoother. Glad its looking better!

Good to know, I will continue working on that.

[stanford]

I want to print some parts for my Lee App press but its so hard searching through this forum. What is the orientation of the APP_Base_Slide, it couldn't be how its pictured in the manual. It seems logical laying on the side or face down and using supports, but I know Tylers parts doesn't really require supports.

[TylerR]

I want to print some parts for my Lee App press but its so hard searching through this forum. What is the orientation of the APP_Base_Slide, it couldn't be how its pictured in the manual. It seems logical laying on the side or face down and using supports, but I know Tylers parts doesn't really require supports.

You do actually want to print it as pictured in the manual. that little tab should be on the build plate. Use support touching build plate only, 60% overhang angle. Brim if you need it.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/748652796513091659/934272634189910046/unknown.png

I recently added the "APP_Base_Slide_Long". The front part that pushes the base of the brass is longer, and it is geared towards smaller dia. brass like .223.

[stanford]

Tyler,

Quick question. What is this circled on the small rifle collator for? I only see it on this collator and none of the others, makes me wonder if its a mistake.

296857

296858

[GWS]

I sliced and printed that small rifle brass wheel on IdeaMaker and there was no sign of such anomalies on mine. Are you using Cura or something else? I Think TylerR uses Cura.

[45acp]

Tyler,

Quick question. What is this circled on the small rifle collator for? I only see it on this collator and none of the others, makes me wonder if its a mistake.

296857

296858

I guess you slice with prusaslicer (or Superslicer)?
I loaded the stl and i see the same in PS, but after i sliced it and check preview it seems like it is ok.

[Anuccite]

Just a little 9mm Production
296882

[stanford]

I sliced and printed that small rifle brass wheel on IdeaMaker and there was no sign of such anomalies on mine. Are you using Cura or something else? I Think TylerR uses Cura.

I use Simplify3D, I haven't printed the wheel yet but I noticed that was the only plate that had something like that on it.

Even in Cura the same ridge is displayed, it looks like those two pieces are not touching the build plate compared to the rest of the wheel.

296883

[MSUICEMAN]

I sliced and printed that small rifle brass wheel on IdeaMaker and there was no sign of such anomalies on mine. Are you using Cura or something else? I Think TylerR uses Cura.I used cura and didn't get those artifacts.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I use Simplify3D, I haven't printed the wheel yet but I noticed that was the only plate that had something like that on it.

Even in Cura the same ridge is displayed, it looks like those two pieces are not touching the build plate compared to the rest of the wheel.

296883

Just had this discussion on discord. It is a zero width artifact that openscad wants to insert when rendering to an stl file. It does not show up in the preview, and there is no reason for it to be there. Based on how the code is written, you would think it would be in all the slots or none at all. Since it is 0 width, any decent slicer will not render it, so it is really a non issue. Anyone who cares to spend time looking at the code is more then welcome, but since it doesn't affect the print anyway its not on my list of things to do.

It will show up in the Prepare tab in Cura, but it should not show up in the Preview tab once you slice it.

[TylerR]

Just a little 9mm Production
296882

Very nice!

[RedBarachetta]

I am getting ready to print another one for my Lee APP press. I want to do this one in Dillon blue. Someone here had mentioned a good brand and color of filament that closely matched the Dillon Blue. Does anybody remember the details?

[TylerR]

I am getting ready to print another one for my Lee APP press. I want to do this one in Dillon blue. Someone here had mentioned a good brand and color of filament that closely matched the Dillon Blue. Does anybody remember the details?

Overture Digital Blue
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCPK9KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://overture3d.com/products/overture-pla-professional-1-75mm

[GWS]

I used cura and didn't get those artifacts.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Ok, eating crow.....there is ONE. I went back and looked carefully, revolving the .stl file's "Z". It took the revolving to find it tucked in one corner of one of the 10 case cutouts. Indeed it is one layer thick and thankfully did not actually physically print on the "small case plate" 300 version. So yeah...it does show up on the slicer picture I use too. (IdeaMaker) But I didn't see it when I sliced, being only one case slot toward the back. Good thing it would have driven me crazy...;)

[MSUICEMAN]

Ok, eating crow.....there is ONE. I went back and looked carefully, revolving the .stl file's "Z". It took the revolving to find it tucked in one corner of one of the 10 case cutouts. Indeed it is one layer thick and thankfully did not actually physically print on the "small case plate" 300 version. So yeah...it does show up on the slicer picture I use too. (IdeaMaker) But I didn't see it when I sliced, being only one case slot toward the back. Good thing it would have driven me crazy...;)Yeah, me too. Just looked at cura and there it is. Doesn't print though.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[ddeck22]

I just got a new APP press and I printed the "App_Bracket_main" and I found that it wasn't tall enough to ensure that cases fed through it. The top would get hung up on the "Brass_insert" for each one. So, I had to increase the scale for the bracket main by 5% vertically and it worked. Not sure if Lee made a slight modification to the size of the press.

[TylerR]

I just got a new APP press and I printed the "App_Bracket_main" and I found that it wasn't tall enough to ensure that cases fed through it. The top would get hung up on the "Brass_insert" for each one. So, I had to increase the scale for the bracket main by 5% vertically and it worked. Not sure if Lee made a slight modification to the size of the press.

It is necessary to have one of the nuts between the bracket and the press. That sets the height correctly.

296964

[ddeck22]

Thanks! I thought about using a spacer, didn't realize that I should have just added the nut. I looked through the User Manual but didn't see it mentioned.

Appreciate it!

[TylerR]

Thanks! I thought about using a spacer, didn't realize that I should have just added the nut. I looked through the User Manual but didn't see it mentioned.

Appreciate it!

Just added a line in the manual to make it more clear.

[ddeck22]

Just added a line in the manual to make it more clear.

Thank you! Appreciate your dedication to this project!

[stanford]

296998

https://youtu.be/o2SZ-SQps0U

[GWS]

Don't have a clue how you ended up with that artifact. Mine printed fine.

https://i.postimg.cc/xjNBdPBF/IMG-3864.jpg

[Anuccite]

I am getting ready to print another one for my Lee APP press. I want to do this one in Dillon blue. Someone here had mentioned a good brand and color of filament that closely matched the Dillon Blue. Does anybody remember the details?

I have used Esun, See my pic above....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EKEMN9W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[stanford]

GWS, when did you print that?

[Minger714]

It's pretty straight forward. Use a spring from the collator to the drop tube just like normal. For 9mm and 40sw brass, or sizing pistol bullets (9mm-45acp), the DAA large spring and my large adapters will work. For 45acp brass you would need the DAA output chute spring, which is 13.5mm ID, and my extra large adapters.

Print out the "APP_Drop_Tube_#3_#4_Tube_Adapter". This will connect the drop tube to either the #3 or #4 (two largest) plastic tubes that come with the APP. From here you are just setting up the APP the way you would normally. You can cut the tube down to be shorter if you want, which is what I did.

There is a pic of my setup on page 79. In the pic you will see I also have a "APP_Offset_Connector" on the APP press. I came up with this and use it primarily for sizing 45acp bullets, because it gives me more clearance between the tube and my modified handle. It will not work with .45 brass (they will get hung up), but I assume it would with everything else.

Edited to add:
Here is the DAA output chute spring. It is larger then the DAA large spring by .5mm, and is 4 feet long, so you can cut it up in to whatever length pieces you need. I mentioned this before, but if I were to buy springs again I would just get the small DAA spring and this output spring, and skip the large one. This one will do everything the large one does and more. Who knows maybe you can find a use for the chute too. lol

https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring?gclid=CjwKCAjwz6_8BRBkEiwA3p02VUhtnBWZltZhk WHGJvnoG4pV8fnCU5uh6AViYXTKTw0NdqFTT-DCCBoCXCkQAvD_BwE

Tyler,

Which offset connector are you using there? Would I be able to get away with just printing the one for 45acp and using it for 9mm and 40s&w as well or would it be caliber specific?

[TylerR]

Tyler,

Which offset connector are you using there? Would I be able to get away with just printing the one for 45acp and using it for 9mm and 40s&w as well or would it be caliber specific?

I use the 13mm for .45acp. Same would most likely work for 40 as well. for 9mm it might be a little large. Issue is just if they get too sideways in the tube they could jam up.

[GWS]

GWS, when did you print that? Made a big mistake that picture in my last post is of the normal sized ones, not the 300 sized ones.

The big 300 sized ones were December 5, 2021....4 months ago, the .308 pictured below with the other two regular sized ones printed earlier by a few months.

https://i.postimg.cc/RVsb7SNh/IMG-3997.jpg

I have the larger .223 one mounted so I just made a short video, showing no artifact corners.


https://youtu.be/M6bRF4ZyqL8

Obviously the 300 sized one has a lot more capacity.

[stanford]

The big 300 sized ones were December 5, 2021....4 months ago, the .308 pictured below with the other two regular sized ones printed earlier by a few months.


All the plates that I had printed out months ago were fine, I just never used any of them since they didn't have the slip clutch. I went ahead and started printing out my plates again since they were designed with the slip clutch in mind. I wasn't looking for any oddities I just happened to see that artifact as I was preparing the plates for slicing and didn't know what it was. I already knew that it was going to print the artifact when I did the print job. Whenever I design anything I always have to make sure everything looks good before printing as I have run into similar issues in the past, once you overlook the problem you end up having to fix it and then doing the print again.

Over the 10 years that I have been 3d printing, I have never ever seen something appear when sliced that mysteriously disappear when printed. That plate was printed last night, I took the video and the picture while it was printing. I already cut the bad piece off, I just have to sand it down to fix it.

[GWS]

Heck of a note! I never saw an artifact as big as the one you printed.....a real mystery. On mine the artifact was obviously too small/thin to print....it was ignored by the printer.

[thump_rrr]

Don't have a clue how you ended up with that artifact. Mine printed fine.

https://i.postimg.cc/xjNBdPBF/IMG-3864.jpg

What filament and settings are you using?
Your top layer finish is phenomenal compared to mine, especially the green one.
I have a large pistol bullet plate that will be ready in the AM.
I will post mine up as a comparison.

[Minger714]

I use the 13mm for .45acp. Same would most likely work for 40 as well. for 9mm it might be a little large. Issue is just if they get too sideways in the tube they could jam up.

Thanks. Besides trial and error, is there a general rule of thumb you go by to print the offset connector? Like since .45 would be 11.58mm, just upsize to the next 2 sizes, so 9mm print out the 11mm?

[TylerR]

Thanks. Besides trial and error, is there a general rule of thumb you go by to print the offset connector? Like since .45 would be 11.58mm, just upsize to the next 2 sizes, so 9mm print out the 11mm?

Yes basically. If I am running a 12mm drop tube, I go with the 13mm offset.

[TylerR]

I spent a couple hours figuring out why OpenSCAD wanted to add those artifacts on certain rifle brass plates when rendering to stl. It is definitely a bug, but I worked around it. Spent another couple hours re-generating all of the plates, which also include some of the latest design changes I have made. It is all loaded to github.

[GWS]

I spent a couple hours figuring out why OpenSCAD wanted to add those artifacts on certain rifle brass plates when rendering to stl. It is definitely a bug, but I worked around it. Spent another couple hours re-generating all of the plates, which also include some of the latest design changes I have made. It is all loaded to github.

Latest design changes? How do you change perfect? :) Documented? Me documenting something is like pulling my fingernails out. I can do it, but it's not that pleasant.....disorganized is my strength, I'm afraid....

[TylerR]

Latest design changes? How do you change perfect? :) Documented? Me documenting something is like pulling my fingernails out. I can do it, but it's not that pleasant.....disorganized is my strength, I'm afraid....

Oh just some tweaks to the collator plates based on my observations over a long time period. Plus I just like to mess with stuff. Documented? Ha. this is the documentation right here.

[GWS]

.......Plus I just like to mess with stuff........

I can relate......I have that disease too. What I'd really like to do is come up with a bullet feeder that could spray a few million at light speed at the Russian Army.....belay that......at the Russian Dictator and all his chronies who keep the sick beast in power.

[GWS]

What filament and settings are you using?
Your top layer finish is phenomenal compared to mine, especially the green one.
I have a large pistol bullet plate that will be ready in the AM.
I will post mine up as a comparison.

Filament: I really like the Satin Filaments for plates and other smaller things. My experience has been great with Zyltech Satin, Green and Blue. The red isn't as candy attractive as the others, so I bought some Overture Satin Red try.....but I haven't printed a plate with it yet. I use Overture in Black PLA plus, for most of my bases.

As for settings.....I expect most slicers have similar ones, but I'll post a zip file for the IdeaMaker slicer I use, so you can download and copy them all to compare with what you use. Maybe you will get a revelation or two from them....With these settings I FINALLY am able to print 99% without stringing, with my Cr-10 Version 2.....except maybe a tiny amount inside things like TylerR's twist connectors. I can live with that.

297082


Here's another regular sized plate using the Zyltech Satin Blue, clutch parts printing away in the background.

https://i.postimg.cc/GmN7kkLn/IMG-3958.jpg

And other little parts....Tyler's fantastic bullet feed dies....same filament and settings:
https://i.postimg.cc/cCFXDZGQ/IMG_3947.jpg

See....the red just doesn't quite compare......I need to try that Overture Satin Red......soon.

[TylerR]

Filament: I really like the Satin Filaments for plates and other smaller things. My experience has been great with Zyltech Satin, Green and Blue. The red isn't as candy attractive as the others, so I bought some Overture Satin Red try.....but I haven't printed a plate with it yet. I use Overture in Black PLA plus, for most of my bases.

As for settings.....I expect most slicers have similar ones, but I'll post a zip file for the IdeaMaker slicer I use, so you can download and copy them all to compare with what you use. Maybe you will get a revelation or two from them....With these settings I FINALLY am able to print 99% without stringing, with my Cr-10 Version 2.....except maybe a tiny amount inside things like TylerR's twist connectors. I can live with that.

Here's another regular sized plate using the Zyltech Satin Blue, clutch parts printing away in the background.

And other little parts....Tyler's fantastic bullet feed dies....same filament and settings:

See....the red just doesn't quite compare......I need to try that Overture Satin Red......soon.

did you check out any of those new plate designs? Download it again cause I made some late night changes.

[GWS]

did you check out any of those new plate designs? Download it again cause I made some late night changes.

Okay, I will download it again......any hints as to how to tell which ones are "new"? Or did you change all of them?

UPDATE: So, I downloaded it just now and went to the "Pistol_Brass_Collator_Plate_Small_300mm.stl". Looks like you changed the raised ridges. instead of radiating them straight from the center, you cranked them all 60 degrees. Interesting.....so exactly what does that do?

[TylerR]

Okay, I will download it again......any hints as to how to tell which ones are "new"? Or did you change all of them?

UPDATE: So, I downloaded it just now and went to the "Pistol_Brass_Collator_Plate_Small_300mm.stl". Looks like you changed the raised ridges. instead of radiating them straight from the center, you cranked them all 60 degrees. Interesting.....so exactly what does that do?


The angle helps prevent those hanger ons that ride to the top and then fall at the last second, sometimes causing a jam. Just one of many things I have noticed.

[paflyfisher]

ok... not the brightest here... I'm having trouble figuring out how to assemble the slip clutch for the plate... can I maybe get a hint or some instruction?? the concept is eluding me without a spring o something in there....
a little help???

[GWS]

ok... not the brightest here... I'm having trouble figuring out how to assemble the slip clutch for the plate... can I maybe get a hint or some instruction?? the concept is eluding me without a spring o something in there....
a little help???

Just friction like a brake pad. Insert the bottom piece with the bevel up mating the bevel on the plate. The piece with hex holes are for Nyloc nuts and goes next. Flat head machine screws start at the bottom. Tighten the two pieces so that you can barely make it turn in the hole with effort. Then screw the Handle down over the top using which ever handle floats your boat.

[stanford]

Just friction like a brake pad. Insert the bottom piece with the bevel up mating the bevel on the plate. The piece with hex holes are for Nyloc nuts and goes next. Flat head machine screws start at the bottom. Tighten the two pieces so that you can barely make it turn in the hole with effort. Then screw the Handle down over the top using which ever handle floats your boat.

If you look at the manual, its assembled in the following manner.

1. The slip clutch goes at the bottom of the collator plate.
2. The slip clutch ring goes on the top side of the plate and is pushed into the plate.
3. The handle then screws into #2 from the top.

Let me post a pic.

[stanford]

GWS, do you have a pic of it, all of my pieces are already assembled.

[stanford]

I just attempted to get the 9mm brass base down ready but this is the problem I ran into. I normally use the parts generator to generate a single caliber to see if I have all the parts laid out correctly. This one is very confusing after I have it setup.

I looked at the video that TylerR has posted from the manual and his is looking very different from what I have. In collating his 9mm the brass moves directly over the hole and falls down the tube, mine seems to have 1/2 on the slide plate and it never goes completely over the hole so nothing ever falls into the hole. As I mentioned, every part that I use is what's generated by the parts generator.


297219

[GWS]

GWS, do you have a pic of it, all of my pieces are already assembled.

I could only find this illustration (before we started recessing nuts) but it's all similar:

https://i.postimg.cc/1zFkyC5g/Screenshot-2021-02-01-182938-PNG.jpg

I think I have a picture of the ring with the nut recess.....

Found it....

https://i.postimg.cc/XqmrvM9h/Clutch_Ring.png

(these can be made thicker for thicker plates or just cuz I like the handles where I can reach them easier.....see my rifle plate posts a few posts back with the mountain in the middle);) Actually.....the tall ones are versitile, I can use them for any plate. Just have to buy one screw length too.....and I'm lazy.

My one size fits all set......

https://i.postimg.cc/W4k9ShzF/IMG-3961.jpg I use long screws and add more nuts on top.

two more pictures I just found...

https://i.postimg.cc/pLtyG28V/IMG-3859.jpg
Above three rings pictured...original thin ring, thin ring with nut keeper, then the tall ring I like to use now.
TylerR also made bottoms in two sizes as you can see. I think this ought to be enough info.

https://i.postimg.cc/vBjZWMbs/IMG-3861.jpg

Bet you can guess from the picture above why I made the tall ring. All these are on Tyler's clutch section, except for the handle (he has another handle similar) and except for the tall ring I modified from Tyler's original.:)297237

To lessen confusion, Tylers handle and my handle differ some.

His: has holes lined up with the two extra holes in any of the rings. So you can just add a cap screw topside. He prints his from the side which required the "flats" on each end...very nice...an upgrade from my "tire" design.

Mine: is printed base down and continues the same holes from the bottom of the clutch so the screws are longer ....so then I add a second pair of nuts topside...nuts make it a little less clean if you care. The lazy way.

https://i.postimg.cc/Bb3j1TfF/GWS-Tire-handle.png https://i.postimg.cc/856vvkF2/Tyler_s_Handle.png

This is all about the "hex" version....the original slot version is similar.

[TylerR]

I just attempted to get the 9mm brass base down ready but this is the problem I ran into. I normally use the parts generator to generate a single caliber to see if I have all the parts laid out correctly. This one is very confusing after I have it setup.

I looked at the video that TylerR has posted from the manual and his is looking very different from what I have. In collating his 9mm the brass moves directly over the hole and falls down the tube, mine seems to have 1/2 on the slide plate and it never goes completely over the hole so nothing ever falls into the hole. As I mentioned, every part that I use is what's generated by the parts generator.



Which size body are you running? If it is Mongo, or the 300mm you will need to use the Mongo slide plate.

[GWS]

I just attempted to get the 9mm brass base down ready but this is the problem I ran into. I normally use the parts generator to generate a single caliber to see if I have all the parts laid out correctly. This one is very confusing after I have it setup.

I looked at the video that TylerR has posted from the manual and his is looking very different from what I have. In collating his 9mm the brass moves directly over the hole and falls down the tube, mine seems to have 1/2 on the slide plate and it never goes completely over the hole so nothing ever falls into the hole. As I mentioned, every part that I use is what's generated by the parts generator.


297219

What part # is the yellow slide? Either it's the wrong part, or you don't have it pushed in enough. There shouldn't be a lip. Is the outside edge of the slide flush with the base? It should be. Your picture is too close in to see.

Update: TylerR posted before I could! Thought he was having a Sunday off! :) I may be wrong but it doesn't look like one of the big collators. Tyler will get you rolling.

[stanford]

Which size body are you running? If it is Mongo, or the 300mm you will need to use the Mongo slide plate.

No Mongo, I don't have a big enough printer for that.

[stanford]

What part # is the yellow slide? Either it's the wrong part, or you don't have it pushed in enough. There shouldn't be a lip. Is the outside edge of the slide flush with the base? It should be. Your picture to close in to see.

There is no part number for the slide plate, it just says Brass_Slide_Plate. Its pushed all the way in and there is no more room to go anywhere, it seems like the slide plate is a bit too wide.

297239

Let me print out the Mongo slide plate and see what happens.

[stanford]

I am not sure about that Mongo slide plate, I compared the mongo slide plate with the regular slide plate and it looks like the ridge is s lot further to the front on the mongo than it is from the plate that i already have on.

297242

Mongo on the left.

[TylerR]

There is no part number for the slide plate, it just says Brass_Slide_Plate. Its pushed all the way in and there is no more room to go anywhere, it seems like the slide plate is a bit too wide.

Let me print out the Mongo slide plate and see what happens.

The slide plate is in backwards. Also, it does not look like you have the slide adjuster installed. Let me take a picture for you.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1bc2pp00gwohi6s/IMG_1565.JPG?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xyfu7y6dpb4y1if/IMG_1566.JPG?raw=1

[GWS]

Yup, I went downstairs and looked at mine, then looked at your picture. It's right side up, but you got to rotate it end for end. The adjuster TylerR is talking about is a little square part that slides on rails on the slide. You didn't print that one, so I guess the software failed you.;)....or you just didn't print all the parts it suggested. We might ought to check that out.

And did you print out an outlet funnel to be screwed to the slide underneath. I didn't see that in the picture either. And you have to print the funnel black.......

just pulling your leg. I like all them colors!

Ha! Ha! See TylerR printed the funnel black.....too funny.

[stanford]

You guys are killing me. I was wondering if I had it in wrong but I was looking at the video in the instructions to see how it was installed. I do have that little plate printed but I didn't think I would need it just yet.

Thanks for the pic Tyler.

Good to go now... hahaha

297243

[TylerR]

You guys are killing me. I was wondering if I had it in wrong but I was looking at the video in the instructions to see how it was installed. I do have that little plate printed but I didn't think I would need it just yet.

Thanks for the pic Tyler.

Good to go now... hahaha


You bet. Recommended to also disable the "flipper" with one of the "sweepers". you can see that part (black) in my first pic.

[GWS]

One more suggestion: Be generous with the hole length....too short and it will revolve and catch the case part way down.....then you will be testing the clutch. The longer the hole adjustment the faster the plate can turn without hangs.......to a point.....don't over do it. Time to have some fun.

[stanford]

You bet. Recommended to also disable the "flipper" with one of the "sweepers". you can see that part (black) in my first pic.

I will definitely do that now.

[stanford]

One more suggestion: Be generous with the hole length....too short and it will revolve and catch the case part way down.....then you will be testing the clutch. The longer the hole adjustment the faster the plate can turn without hangs.......to a point.....don't over do it. Time to have some fun.

You bet, now that I think I have it figured out I can actually start using the machine.

[TylerR]

I will definitely do that now.

With pistol brass just open it up all the way. the slider is really for rifle brass that feeds on its side.

[stanford]

With pistol brass just open it up all the way. the slider is really for rifle brass that feeds on its side.

Awesome. Thanks for this.

[stanford]

Regarding the Lee App, since I keep messing up and putting in things upside down. Am I missing something here? The brass never gets to the front of the slide.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xd4hbfxpunij5qo/20220306_203125-22.png?dl=0

I don't understand how you are posting your images from dropbox in the message, everytime I try it gives me invalid file.

[GWS]

The slide plate is in backwards. Also, it does not look like you have the slide adjuster installed. Let me take a picture for you.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1bc2pp00gwohi6s/IMG_1565.JPG?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xyfu7y6dpb4y1if/IMG_1566.JPG?raw=1

Question TylerR......what's the purpose for the indented area on the right side of the hole?

Another question.....Since you said the slider was made for rifle cases, what if I make a simplified slide for pistol cases only without the slider? Like this?

https://i.postimg.cc/43J7dbZh/Pistol-Brass-Slide.png

Wouldn't that work? Looking for Further light and knowledge. :)

I could print that tomorrow and see if it works......was wondering about the indent on the right, though. Want to ask first and not waste a print.

[GWS]

Regarding the Lee App, since I keep messing up and putting in things upside down. Am I missing something here? The brass never gets to the front of the slide.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xd4hbfxpunij5qo/20220306_203125-22.png?dl=0

I don't understand how you are posting your images from dropbox in the message, everytime I try it gives me invalid file.
.
You type 'img' inside the brackets instead of 'url' and '/img' inside the brackets instead of '/url' like this.....

https://i.postimg.cc/yxqSVqN7/20220306-203125-22.png
except you need a host, and I don't know if drop box is one......I uploaded the dropbox picture into my "PostImage" account then used the share command to get an url that worked between the bracketed img' as above. Clear as mud right?

I looked at your photo over and over and finally saw that the APP's spring is mounted to the far side of the spring mount on the APP casting. See if it works better mounting the spring on the side closer. I'll try to get a picture here in a minute.

https://i.postimg.cc/Fsm8p8xD/IMG-3235.jpg

See, it should hook onto the casting on the side of the loop closest to the shuttle. 40 S&W Case is upside down because it's about to be pushed through the debulger die below. APP's are neat little buggers.

[stanford]

.
You type 'img' inside the brackets instead of 'url' and '/img' inside the brackets instead of '/url' like this.....


Thanks, I will definitely give this a try. I look at the pics that you guys are posting and its so much better than the pics I am posting.




I looked at your photo over and over and finally saw that the APP's spring is mounted to the far side of the spring mount on the APP casting. See if it works better mounting the spring on the side closer. I'll try to get a picture here in a minute.


I will give this a try once I get home later and hopefully it fixes the problem. I know when I clip the spring into the App slider it moves around on the clips above. I also have to make sure that the slider is moving very easy and not binding anywhere.

[TylerR]

Regarding the Lee App, since I keep messing up and putting in things upside down. Am I missing something here? The brass never gets to the front of the slide.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xd4hbfxpunij5qo/20220306_203125-22.png?dl=0

I don't understand how you are posting your images from dropbox in the message, everytime I try it gives me invalid file.

With image links on dropbox you have to modify the end of the url. change "?dl=0" to "?raw=1". Then insert it in [img] tags as GWS mentioned.

GWS already provided the solution to the app issue. When I install the spring, I first attach it to the press body, then I give it 1/2 turn counter clockwise, then attach it to the hook on the slider. This will force it to ride in the correct position.

[TylerR]

Question TylerR......what's the purpose for the indented area on the right side of the hole?

Another question.....Since you said the slider was made for rifle cases, what if I make a simplified slide for pistol cases only without the slider? Like this?

Wouldn't that work? Looking for Further light and knowledge. :)

I could print that tomorrow and see if it works......was wondering about the indent on the right, though. Want to ask first and not waste a print.

Short answer is yes, that design will work for pistol cases. That is how my plate looked when I first designed it. The slide adjuster, as well as the area to the right are both designed for rifle cases (or large magnum pistol like 45LC). The cutout on the right forces the mouth of the case upwards as it moves across the hole, preventing jamming when the case mouth is in front.

[GWS]

Short answer is yes, that design will work for pistol cases. That is how my plate looked when I first designed it. The slide adjuster, as well as the area to the right are both designed for rifle cases (or large magnum pistol like 45LC). The cutout on the right forces the mouth of the case upwards as it moves across the hole, preventing jamming when the case mouth is in front.

I'll try it today......even .357. I don't shoot 45LC, since someone broke into my home and stole it 30 years ago. Nice little Ruger Convertible with a 7' barrel. Life is fun for the most part. On a day like that....not so much.

Your adjustable one is the bees knees for Rifle. If this one is trouble free for pistol....great.....I like simple.

[RedBarachetta]

Overture Digital Blue
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCPK9KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://overture3d.com/products/overture-pla-professional-1-75mm

Thank you. I received two rolls of this and I am very impressed with the quality. So much so that I am going to print out 2 more collators for myself.

[TylerR]

Thank you. I received two rolls of this and I am very impressed with the quality. So much so that I am going to print out 2 more collators for myself.

Now your on to something there! I am actually printing a 300mm Just Right at the moment. Just because I don't have one. Not that I need one.

Who knows, maybe I will get crazy and do a build video. We'll see.

[stanford]

Who knows, maybe I will get crazy and do a build video. We'll see.

Do it.

[stanford]

When I install the spring, I first attach it to the press body, then I give it 1/2 turn counter clockwise, then attach it to the hook on the slider. This will force it to ride in the correct position.

Tyler,

I definitely see the difference when you twist the spring, it's amazing when companies design products they have all these faults in the final product.

[TylerR]

Tyler,

I definitely see the difference when you twist the spring, it's amazing when companies design products they have all these faults in the final product.

I am not sure I would consider it a fault in the product. When I first starting running my APP it made sense that the spring had to fully extend to get full travel on the slider. How to make that happen jumped out at me right away.

[GWS]

I am not sure I would consider it a fault in the product. When I first starting running my APP it made sense that the spring had to fully extend to get full travel on the slider. How to make that happen jumped out at me right away.

Could they have made it bullet proof there? Sure. Was it necessary? No. Pretty easy to adjust it. I never thought of twisting it for prevention, but then I only had it do that when I put it on wrong. I fixed....me....then I had no more problems....;)

Its easy to fault Lee on a few things, but I got mine for 75 dollars....I didn't expect a Dillon or an RCBS. Tell you the truth, modding it is half the fun for me. Heck try the swaging tool......my RCBS bench swager collects dust now. It's the case feeder, folks, that makes it worth pure gold, little flaws and all. ;) Enough of a big deal, that makes me want to mod my RCBS Summit to use a feeder/collator.

I didn't get the pistol slider printed.....been a busy day, and I had a little trouble with DesignSpark today. I don't use it enough and I forget what I learn, and have to relearn and relearn at my age. But here's the finished .stl. (Decided to keep the recessed top at the front....to make sure it will do .357mag and other long ones well.) Will print it tomorrow.

https://i.postimg.cc/htSmhhJX/Pistol-Slider.png

[stanford]

I am not sure I would consider it a fault in the product. When I first starting running my APP it made sense that the spring had to fully extend to get full travel on the slider. How to make that happen jumped out at me right away.

I still haven't actually used the app press, I am still at the point of getting everything working before I start using it. I bought this press once I saw a lot of reviews on folks de-priming and it seems pretty good since I have a few thousands pieces of brass to de-prime.

Tell me if you have experienced this when using the app press. Last night I was testing the sliding action to see if I would get any binds when doing 9mm brass, using the printed piece on the slide (app_main_slide) when the brass fell down the jaws did not instantly grab the brass and at times the brass would jump forward off the press. If I put the original slide back on then the brass doesn't jump forward, the jaws grab it and keeps it in place.

I sanded the printed piece to make it was really smooth just in case, but it didn't help much. I think I have seen videos of others speaking about this but I can't seem to find any video now that I need one.

[TylerR]

I still haven't actually used the app press, I am still at the point of getting everything working before I start using it. I bought this press once I saw a lot of reviews on folks de-priming and it seems pretty good since I have a few thousands pieces of brass to de-prime.

Tell me if you have experienced this when using the app press. Last night I was testing the sliding action to see if I would get any binds when doing 9mm brass, using the printed piece on the slide (app_main_slide) when the brass fell down the jaws did not instantly grab the brass and at times the brass would jump forward off the press. If I put the original slide back on then the brass doesn't jump forward, the jaws grab it and keeps it in place.

I sanded the printed piece to make it was really smooth just in case, but it didn't help much. I think I have seen videos of others speaking about this but I can't seem to find any video now that I need one.

Have you tried adjusting the jaws with the adjustment screw?

[GWS]

That'd be the first step. Also examine the two shuttle pieces and compare them to the one that "works" to see what is working smooth and what is not working smooth. Your print may not be up to snuff. Plus here's a few things that might get you.

1. the hook that connects the end of the spring may not be actuating the jaws right....so test that.....it has to be moving free up and down a little to close the jaws.
2. Cases getting the boot may not be sliding into the caseholder smoothly.....check shuttle height.....I also lube my shuttle with graphite to make it slick, so the shuttle feels greased without being greased.
3. Also look for rough case heads that don't slide smoothly. Some brass has really rough imprinting that affects that, and some can even cause case heads to be so thick they won't freely enter the caseholder.
4. Like anything reloading, pay real close attention to details....watch it move carefully and you will see where and why it isn't smooth. Even how the downtube is rotated makes a big difference....make sure the drop is dropping the cases into the center.

With the APP the directions are minimum......but they are very important. I found when I had problems, reading them with a better attitude, and paying attention to each step and detail did the trick. (glossing over them, because "I don't need no instructions" is unwise, as I found out).;)

If your print is not up to it....reexamine your slicer details.....layer height .12 is important for small parts. top and bottom layers need to be smooth....at least 2 top layers over any fill.....and pay attention that the bottom layer is not wider in critical places. (elephant's foot)

[RedBarachetta]

It's funny, the Lee APP press is what got me started on this whole collator thing to begin with. I was decapping a few thousand rounds and I found it took forever to fill up the tube by hand. Worse yet, when i started resizing my cast boolits, i kept dropping them on the ground while trying to again fill the tube. I should probably make this next collator an APP collator and cast a bunch of boolits just so i can smile and try it out.

[GWS]

Finished the simplified Pistol-only slide. Works as TylerR figured it would......even at hyperspeed.;) I don't intend to collate that fast, but I also don't have a speed control yet for this particular collator. But if it can do it this well, this fast, I don't see any problem with collating at a reasonable sane speed. Also, I doubt I'll print the small pistol plate......might have to eat those words, but then again, maybe its a waste of time changing plates for different pistol calibers when you don't have too.

The two videos below are collating using the "large" pistol plate, so it should work with .40, .44, ..45 just as well.

https://youtu.be/FsWdsDeQ68s

https://youtu.be/U-a7gFfGDOw

[TylerR]

Finished the simplified Pistol-only slide. Works as TylerR figured it would......even at hyperspeed.;) I don't intend to collate that fast, but I also don't have a speed control yet for this particular collator. But if it can do it this well, this fast, I don't see any problem with collating at a reasonable sane speed. Also, I doubt I'll print the small pistol plate......might have to eat those words, but then again, maybe its a waste of time changing plates for different pistol calibers when you don't have too.

The two videos below are collating using the "large" pistol plate, so it should work with .40, .44, ..45 just as well.


Holy cow you are running that fast.

[GWS]

Yeah, what better way to test the slide. Your design works pretty darn good! That base was the first one I built, replaced on my other presses by the bigger 300mm ones. I had used a Dayton motor I had on hand, and it runs faster than later ones. I don't have a speed control on it because I first bought a tiny cheap one and it died. So have to order a new one.

But it certainly demonstrates the plate and slide capability. Can't see it gving me any problems at a more sane speed. It ran fine for case feeding duties for my Pro 2000 using the adjustable slide....but then you said open it up all the way, so printing a simplified slide with the opening permanently open all the way, just seemed like the natural thing to do since that machine is only going to do pistol calibers.

The other side of the story was that I had been using a 5 volt wall wart to power that motor and it was slower, about right, even with no speed control, but I misplaced it and hooked a 12v into it....then a 9v. The videos are using the nine volt. Interesting that you can vary the voltage, that easy. But a speed control needs to get ordered, and the bigger electronics box printed, then I'll be happy.


It's funny, the Lee APP press is what got me started on this whole collator thing to begin with. I was decapping a few thousand rounds and I found it took forever to fill up the tube by hand. Worse yet, when i started resizing my cast boolits, i kept dropping them on the ground while trying to again fill the tube. I should probably make this next collator an APP collator and cast a bunch of boolits just so i can smile and try it out.

It didn't get me started on collators but it sure encouraged me to make more.;)

[djinnpb]

Also one of the guys that printed like crazy took a break and came and back and see how wild things have progressed. Now of course I am printing the 300mm body.. because.. well why not!. I see ramp and extender walls for regular and mongo. If printing the 300mm body is all the ramp/mount/electronics box all the same as the original size? Only thing that looks to be needed different is the mongo brass slide plate. This seem right? Boy that thing is gonna hold some brass. 3 days to print :(

[GWS]

TylerR may have to correct me, but if I remember right, the ramp for it is the mongo.....don't remember if the slide plates are regular or Mongo.....I was thinking regular......TylerR will have to jump in here.....not sure.

[TylerR]

Also one of the guys that printed like crazy took a break and came and back and see how wild things have progressed. Now of course I am printing the 300mm body.. because.. well why not!. I see ramp and extender walls for regular and mongo. If printing the 300mm body is all the ramp/mount/electronics box all the same as the original size? Only thing that looks to be needed different is the mongo brass slide plate. This seem right? Boy that thing is gonna hold some brass. 3 days to print :(

Ramp - use the mongo version. Do not need it if just collating brass base down.
Mount - use the standard mounts.
Electronics - https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Electronics_Box_Small_300.stl
Brass Slide Plate - Use the mongo version.

[stanford]

Guys, I am really stumped with this one. With the App press tubes, I have all of the drop tube adapter and inserts printed out, that is 6 of them. Somehow none of them will fit the small tube for the 308 boolits, the opening is too big. Can you tell me starting from the press which adapters go in sequence.

So far I have them in this order, the rest is missing.

APP_Bracket_Main -> APP_Bullet_Insert_308 -> small clear tube (what comes next on the small tube) ->
I am at a loss on what connector goes on the top of the tube so I can put the spring in. I looked at the video and this guys tube fits pretty snug, I look at my connectors and the holes are really big.

Thanks guys

[45acp]

Got my case feeder up´n running and now i´m going for the LEE APP for sizing bullets.
Which bullet nose down slide plate would be for H&G#68?
Tried #7 and printing #8 for testing. Guess the angle of the collator is important.
TIA

[TylerR]

Guys, I am really stumped with this one. With the App press tubes, I have all of the drop tube adapter and inserts printed out, that is 6 of them. Somehow none of them will fit the small tube for the 308 boolits, the opening is too big. Can you tell me starting from the press which adapters go in sequence.

So far I have them in this order, the rest is missing.

APP_Bracket_Main -> APP_Bullet_Insert_308 -> small clear tube (what comes next on the small tube) ->
I am at a loss on what connector goes on the top of the tube so I can put the spring in. I looked at the video and this guys tube fits pretty snug, I look at my connectors and the holes are really big.

Thanks guys

The 308 insert uses the #2 tube. Second from the smallest. You do not necessarily need the clear tube. One of the issues is there are about 10 ways to skin this cat. I am big on options but it can make it confusing.
I was using clear tube in the past, but my latest setup gets rid of it and just uses spring. Are you planning to use any spring? Also, drop tube on the press or collator?

If you want to see what I had for the tube setup, the video in the manual shows it pretty well. Here is a picture of what I am doing now.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j26wb1kcvclil5k/IMG_1570.JPG?raw=1

[azlester]

My first post on this thread.... Do you guys have any idea how long it takes to read 284+ pages/5681 posts??? Let me just say it took me reading some every day for weeks!LOL
It was worth every second too! I started taking notes just to help with having to go back through to find the information again.
I want to thank Tyler, GWS and all the other contributors to this project... WOW what a wealth of information!
I started printing my set up this past weekend... started with the main body and 48 hours later I am impressed with my newbie 3D printing and my $90 used Aquila(Ender 3 V2 clone)!!!
Printing up the bullet slider plates and then on to abut a page and 1/2 of parts on my list!
Thank you one and all!

[TylerR]

My first post on this thread.... Do you guys have any idea how long it takes to read 284+ pages/5681 posts??? Let me just say it took me reading some every day for weeks!LOL
It was worth every second too! I started taking notes just to help with having to go back through to find the information again.
I want to thank Tyler, GWS and all the other contributors to this project... WOW what a wealth of information!
I started printing my set up this past weekend... started with the main body and 48 hours later I am impressed with my newbie 3D printing and my $90 used Aquila(Ender 3 V2 clone)!!!
Printing up the bullet slider plates and then on to abut a page and 1/2 of parts on my list!
Thank you one and all!

You read the whole thread? Respect. Most people just want to just skip to the end. Hard to replace all the knowledge you get by starting at the beginning though. The project has come along way since it started. Feel free to ask away if you need anything specific.

[stanford]

The 308 insert uses the #2 tube. Second from the smallest. You do not necessarily need the clear tube. One of the issues is there are about 10 ways to skin this cat. I am big on options but it can make it confusing.
I was using clear tube in the past, but my latest setup gets rid of it and just uses spring. Are you planning to use any spring? Also, drop tube on the press or collator?


I was basically using the tube to see how the bullets fell (base up/base down) but the tube is a little shaky when its full. Your setup seems a lot more stable and I think I will setup mine like this. I am also using a spring. Tyler, it's amazing that in the videos you always get the bullets to fall in the correct position, this is one thing I am struggling with and even though few bullets fall base down it needs to be consistent and fall base up.

Also you should show more pics of your setup, it does help a lot especially with the clarity of the pictures.

[azlester]

You read the whole thread? Respect. Most people just want to just skip to the end. Hard to replace all the knowledge you get by starting at the beginning though. The project has come along way since it started. Feel free to ask away if you need anything specific.
Ok, Is it possible to get a version of the electronic boxes without the holes for the speed control and power switch?
I am going a slightly different route with mine and would prefer to just drill the openings I need.
Thank you!

[TylerR]

Ok, Is it possible to get a version of the electronic boxes without the holes for the speed control and power switch?
I am going a slightly different route with mine and would prefer to just drill the openings I need.
Thank you!

There are "Template" versions of both boxes. Are you looking for something else?
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Electronics_Box_Large_Template.stl

[azlester]

There are "Template" versions of both boxes. Are you looking for something else?
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Electronics_Box_Large_Template.stl
That's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you... I guess I need to Download the files again because the down load I have didn't have the template...bet there are some other things in the latest update to see.
Thank you again!

[TylerR]

That's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you... I guess I need to Download the files again because the down load I have didn't have the template...bet there are some other things in the latest update to see.
Thank you again!

Those are almost a year old, so you definitely want to re-download. A lot has changed in a year.

[GWS]

That's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you... I guess I need to Download the files again because the down load I have didn't have the template...bet there are some other things in the latest update to see.
Thank you again!

Keep in mind that PLA is a low temperature thermal plastic. Drilling except at a real low speed will melt the plastic....so go very slow.

[azlester]

Most of the motor control knobs are the same... what is different is the opening for the switch... I don't need 8 rocker switches that cost $9 when a simple $2 SPST toggle switch will do just fine.
Having a sharp drill bit makes quick work of drilling PLA with little force required.

[GWS]

Most of the motor control knobs are the same... what is different is the opening for the switch... I don't need 8 rocker switches that cost $9 when a simple $2 SPST toggle switch will do just fine.
Having a sharp drill bit makes quick work of drilling PLA with little force required.


That's what I get for trying to be helpful, somes like it somes don't. You're right I did buy 8 rockers, when my 4 collators are all upgraded and pretty I'll have four left..... I do have a toggle 1p1t switch on one of my collator boxes, but don't care for the looks......too picky I guess. The same 8 offer is $5 now.....thing is, I'll use all eight on projects.....I seem to always have a project of some sort. But you carry on.....I won't bother you again. And btw, my bits are sharp....used fast they do punch through fast with little effort....but the results were not as pretty as going slow.

[azlester]

I appreciated the tip... I was just trying to explain why I had asked the question. I didn't intend to offend or put anyone off at all. If I came across that way I apologize. I have great respect for you and those that have contributed to this project!
Being retired and living on my Social Security while raising 2 grandkids puts a strain on me. I have become the biggest penny pinching you know what you'll ever see. I allowed myself this one splurge because I could see a payoff of doing it myself and saving a huge pile of money. I fought with myself for years over doing this... back then it was easy to put off because the cost of a 3d printer was extremely prohibitive... but when I found a used Aquila(Ender 3 v2 clone) for $90 shipped i jumped on it. I sold off some reloading stuff I hadn't used in years to pay for it and to get some filament to start the project. So every penny counts when trying to piece this together.

[GWS]

Understand....this medium of communication is really neat, but it's easy to mix signals too. I can't post without screwing something up somewhere. Best wishes for your projects......your reloading ones and your grandkids. Be more than glad to send you one of the unused 4 rockers. PM me your address and it'll be on the way.......BTW I lived in Miss. for a whole year when I was 19. Vicksburg. Lots of history there.......but very quiet on the 4th of July....

[azlester]

I live way down south... 50 miles from the gulf. 4th of July here is anything but quiet.. for days before and days after..lol The fireworks tents go up a couple of weeks before and are always packed with people.
Thank you so very much for the offer, I really appreciate it.
Is this the switch you were referring to for $5?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DY88CB3/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A2Z17Y4SBHA6MX&th=1

[GWS]

No. I think TylerR and others have bought those, and they have pwr-on lights even.....but I didn't see the reason for power-on light indicators. What I saw were these today:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PNCL61/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B082PNCL61&pd_rd_w=Jv6VC&pf_rd_p=0c758152-61cd-452f-97a6-17f070f654b8&pd_rd_wg=9ZuTZ&pf_rd_r=VAX3FW871N8BHXMCYZ1W&pd_rd_r=152fcf24-9cb5-4414-bbcf-742b2d7914ae&s=industrial&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUkhJMFcwNk44WkNPJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjU3MjgxMjVFWFhNV0dFVURJQSZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzcxMTUyM1AxRllFS1M1SUtIMyZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZ kb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Went back in my Amazon buy history and this is what I have (so see, I think I can spare a couple....jeeze 10 of them!;)):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S2QJKTX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's one installed. (That's my box under divergents, I mean "contributors"....cut-out size is listed on the link above's thumbnails, so maybe they fit TylerR's too, but I don't know. I do know he would alter one for you to fit it. Probably take him 5 minutes.)

https://i.postimg.cc/qvk36z4y/IMG-3975.jpg

Vicksburg's surrender in the Civil War was on July 4. At least when I was there...they didn't celebrate that particular Holiday for obvious reasons....maybe the new generation is past that, but I wouldn't know.

[GWS]

Okay I modified Tyler's big box to take my Rocker.....took me an hour.....TylerR? Still betting 5 minutes. (now that I know how....maybe 15 minutes to do the small box)

https://i.postimg.cc/3xznHpqV/Large-Box-with-rectangle-switch.png

Hole cutout for the Rockers I have is 19.2x13.2mm.

My boxes are made to hang underneath the base.....maybe because I'm short. ;) and I don't have fancy connectors needing special holes out the end.....I just use wire nuts.....really low tech but just as capable.

[impala68]

Anyone know what thread to use in fusion 360 for a die holder? the ANSI unified threads for 7/8x14 UNF seem way too tight … what is the thread setup on the dropper die and nut?

[TylerR]

I redesigned the layout based on the new schematic. Was also able to reduce the overall size of the board, 36mm wide by 51 mm long. I've ordered a half dozen boards from a prototyping service. Little more expensive (about 5 bucks a board), but didn't want a bunch of them if they don't work.


Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Did you ever get these boards? If so how did they work out?

[TylerR]

Anyone know what thread to use in fusion 360 for a die holder? the ANSI unified threads for 7/8x14 UNF seem way too tight … what is the thread setup on the dropper die and nut?

I created custom threads. too long ago to remember the details. What if you used the stock thread and scale it up?

[impala68]

I created custom threads. too long ago to remember the details. What if you used the stock thread and scale it up?

i'll try that now ... any idea of a starting point for the upscale? 2% maybe ?
gonna run some tests now

[TylerR]

i'll try that now ... any idea of a starting point for the upscale? 2% maybe ?
gonna run some tests now

I would think 1-2% would work fine.

[CS223]

Arrrgh. I hate to revisit this again but I'm having issues with the parts generator again. I have the latest file from the git and the latest java release. Running on Mac. When I generate the file, the only thing in the .zip file is the setting page, none of the stl's.

[TylerR]

Arrrgh. I hate to revisit this again but I'm having issues with the parts generator again. I have the latest file from the git and the latest java release. Running on Mac. When I generate the file, the only thing in the .zip file is the setting page, none of the stl's.

Best I can say is to take the parts list and just grab the files from the directories, which are self explanatory.

[GWS]

I'm glad all this was created on Windows, or I'd probably be in the same boat CS223 is! Sorry for your troubles, and wish I could help, but I know absolutely nothing about Mac's. One suggestion though......do you have a friend or relative who might download the files on their windows machine, get the parts generator to make the list of files you need? Can you then download them on the Mac? (really dumb here, but just asking and trying to understand)

BTW, TylerR, hope I was able to help a kindred spirit, azlester, by modifying your boxes to hold the regular vanilla rocker switches.....so you don't have to. Maybe save some of your valuable time for the next amazing product? ;) Besides, it gave me another excuse to practice my DesignSpark skills.

[azlester]

Stupid question time...again.
What is the orientation of the brass drop hole adapter supposed to be. It pops up in Cura with the flat side at a 45 degree angle with only a tiny bit touching and the tube straight up and down which would make supports required! I know how Tyler feels bout using supports... My guess is the the flat part need to be on the bed with the tube pointing up.

[GWS]

Yeah, I ran into that too......actually tried to print it that way and it fell over, even with supports. The proper way to print it is:

https://i.postimg.cc/9Q7fPmXz/Rotated.png By rotating 30 degrees.

[azlester]

Thanks!
That's what I figured would be the solution, but wanted to ask before I wasted any filament!

[GWS]

I had wrongly assumed the .stl files provided are always oriented to print.....at least I got to experience spaghetti for the first time with that print.;)

[GWS]

azlester is ready for the next step, printing plates, and emailed me stumped about what plates to print. Better he post here where there's better help.

Here's his question:
I am almost to the point of printing up some collator plates and I have no idea how to get or modify the plates in the generator. I am wanting to print up the following brass ones...9mm, 45acp, 300blk,223 , 6.5 Creedmoor and 6.5 Grendel. Bullet feeding ones the same. I am clueless and need some help sir.
Thanks



Okay, I only have experience with .45,.40, 9mm, and .357 in pistol. 223 and 308 in rifle, so I don't have all the answers, but this is what I know. TylerR has some plates for the common ones already listed to download without having to go to the generator....I printed and use the small older #2 rifle bullet plate for .223, and then the long bullet #11. (the one most likely was made for the 6.5 Creedmore?) I did print the #11 plate, and it works great for the various .308 bullets I use just fine.

For pistol bullets I use a modified Hornady feeder I have owned and used long before I discovered 3D printers. But they collated fine then feed to TylerR's super awesome bullet feed dies.....and that works great. Those dies are wonderful things, well worth printing and ordering springs and ball bearings for.

For Pistol Brass: I use the TylerR regular base and the Large pistol case plate for it, and it works great for .45,.40, .357, and 9mm. all with the slide all the way open.

For Rifle Brass: I use 300mm base and the "Large" rifle brass plate for .308 and the "Small" rifle brass plate for .223. In conjunction with a soldier, knock down part I made, they work very efficiently.

TylerR can tell you when and where you need the generator for other things I don't have any experience in. Good luck on the journey....worth the trouble!

I do NOT delve into the base up brass or bullet nose down for boolit sizing.....can't help you with that.

Just know that you need regular size plates for the TylerR original base, 300 size plates for 300mm bases, and Mongo plates for Mongo bases. Slide plates......Mongo sized for both 300 and Mongo bases.....regular size for regular bases.

Below is a couple of pictures of my Rifle bases/plates, left, 300mm size base for cases, right, regular size for bullets. (.308 and .223 setups)

First one .308 (Large Rifle brass plate) and #11 long bullet plate on the right.

https://i.postimg.cc/Hn12w0QX/IMG-4005.jpg

Second picture .223 small Rifle brass plate, and small rifle bullet plate (bullet plate from the generator....done again, I would put raised dividers only every other hole. Works ok, but doubt that many is necessary.)

https://i.postimg.cc/B6KpP71J/IMG-4006.jpg

TylerR's new just updated plate #2 for small bullets looks to be an improvement.....I like the looks of it! Below:

https://i.postimg.cc/kGrmWH1s/Screenshot-2022-03-20-150130.png

[azlester]

well I got the parts generator kind of working... i did the 9mm bullet and it did well.. i then tried to do the brass case plate and it generated bit the center of the plate is empty... one giant hole.
i have tried a couple of times making sure that I had the hex option checked and it did the same thing again.

[GWS]

bigger than the clutch hole? that's weird. The small pistol bullet plate already in Tyler's list is the one I would have tried.

[azlester]

297895
There is a screen shot of it in Cura... yea starnge.
I was wanting to know about how much filament each plate was going to take so I had an idea how much more I needed to get.
it's going to be awhile before I get to start printing them.

[GWS]

That's just the normal clutch hole......you print the clutch parts for the hex, but you don't have to use the generator.

This is TylerR's already generated:

https://i.postimg.cc/Bbvxchj8/Pistol-Bullet-Collator-Plate-Small-5.png

never mind....you're doing brass not bullets. brass one us similar only thinner and no indents on top,

below:

https://i.postimg.cc/4dydWj1T/Small-Pistol-Brass.png

Hmmm, wondering if the bullet one would work also for the brass? Maybe someone has tried it.

[azlester]

297899
I have no idea what I did but I got all the files created for the plates... and they all have the hex option checked and all of them have the hex hole in the middle now... I hope thats right, if not I will just redo them.
My thought was to use the dedicated plates for calibers that I wanted to use. if there was one I used it. What advantage is there to use the small pistol instead of the 9mm? same for the 223/300blk? What plate do I need for the 6.5 Grendel and the 6.5 Creedmoor cases? Will the 9mm bullet plate work with 38/357 bullets?

[GWS]

Only right if you don't want to use the clutches in the center.......the clutch is way better. Without a clutch, the motor will eventually tear out the hex head in the middle. Then you have to print another one. Look at the my post at the top of the last page post #5641 for hex centered clutch parts available.


What advantage is there to use the small pistol instead of the 9mm?Small pistol or 9mm what? Case or bullet plate? You don't have to print a case plate for every single caliber. I collate .45, .357, .40s&w, 9mm cases all on the same large pistol brass plate. You can print a small pistol case plate if you want, but I'm not wasting my time and PLA with that.

Bullet plates? Trial and error. Typically they are printed thicker, to match bullet length.....but I don't know how important that is.....that's why we are here, there are smarter people than me here. :) I'm a renegade I guess, but I don't make plates for every single bullet.

6.5 Grendel and Creedmoor? Tyler had better answer that, but I'm betting on the #11. The red one in the first picture in post #5709

[azlester]

If you look the clutch is selected for the plates....
"Small pistol or 9mm what? Case or bullet plate?" Both.
thanks

[GWS]

Either you check hex for a hex center, or you check clutch for the big circle in the center for the clutch. You can check both at the same time? That's probably a mistake.

If you want to use a clutch you print the clutch using either the hex parts or the pin through the shaft parts. Up to now I would have stayed away from the generator.......that only confused everything. TylerR's small bullet and/or small case plates work for 9mm, and heck Tyler's large case plate also works.

[TylerR]

I am almost to the point of printing up some collator plates and I have no idea how to get or modify the plates in the generator. I am wanting to print up the following brass ones...9mm, 45acp, 300blk,223 , 6.5 Creedmoor and 6.5 Grendel. Bullet feeding ones the same. I am clueless and need some help sir.

GWS, has explained pretty much everything. His last point about not needing to generate custom plates is spot on. Also, no reason at all to go with a non clutch version.

There are already plates designed for the things you listed. Just go in to the directory and look at what is in there. it is self explanatory.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/tree/main/3.%20Collator%20Plates

For large pistol brass (like .45acp), use the Pistol_Brass_Collator_Plate_Large
For small rifle brass (like .223) use the Rifle_Brass_Collator_Plate_Small

I did create a 300bo plate and shared it because I had it. You could just use the small rifle brass plate though.

As GWS said, the #11 plate is specifically designed for long bullets. 300bo, 6.5 creedmoor. There are videos in the manual showing these plates in action.

[azlester]

The 6.5 Grendel and 6.5 Creedmoor question was about case collator plate as I use the APP to decap with on them. Everything else is done on the single stage press for them.
I wanted the clutch on all the plates.. so I am redoing the plates in Cura... no biggie. Would rather have it right the first time then have to make another plate.
So the small pistol case and bullet plates work well with 9mm and 38/357? and the small rifle case and bullets for the 223 and 300blk(I use 110 to 140gr bullets in my blackout...no subsonics for me)too?
All my cases are base down... no need for base up versions.
Thank you guys for all the help. I really appreciate it!

[GWS]

.........So the small pistol case and bullet plates work well with 9mm and 38/357?

They should....nearly the same caliber. Base tilt will be important for the longer cases.....trial and error on the angle.



.....and the small rifle case and bullets for the 223 and 300blk(I use 110 to 140gr bullets in my blackout...no subsonics for me)too?

300blk is 30 caliber versus 22 caliber for 223. So you have to have a bullet plate with holes big enough for 30 caliber bullets right? Betting such a thing will work for .22 cal too....so if just one, I'd probably print the large rifle bullet plate, but since the cases' bases are the same, .223 and 300blk, then the small case plate will work, correct?

[azlester]

Just some questions about various parts form the parts generator...
1. The parts list says I need spring "adapter 8 flush"... I don't see it even on github.
2. Am I correct in thinking that spring adapter 13 has something to do with using the led/optical sensor? Do I need 2 of the led knobs?
3. Do I need to print up 1 set of the clutch assembly for each plate?
4. What size bolts are used for assembling the ramp, flipper, bullet plate adjustment and clutch with handle?
5. I think I need to order the following springs... 15mm, 12mm and 10mm. I want to do 9mm brass and bullets, 38/357brass and bullets, 45acp brass and bullets, 223 brass and bullets, 6.5 Grendel brass only and 6.5 Creedmoor brass brass only. From my research I think the least expensive way is to order off of AliExpress. I have more time then money so I can wait for them to get here... LOL
Thank you guys so very much for putting up with me and my dumb questions.

[MSUICEMAN]

Just some questions about various parts form the parts generator...
1. The parts list says I need spring "adapter 8 flush"... I don't see it even on github.
2. Am I correct in thinking that spring adapter 13 has something to do with using the led/optical sensor? Do I need 2 of the led knobs?
3. Do I need to print up 1 set of the clutch assembly for each plate?
4. What size bolts are used for assembling the ramp, flipper, bullet plate adjustment and clutch with handle?
5. I think I need to order the following springs... 15mm, 12mm and 10mm. I want to do 9mm brass and bullets, 38/357brass and bullets, 45acp brass and bullets, 223 brass and bullets, 6.5 Grendel brass only and 6.5 Creedmoor brass brass only. From my research I think the least expensive way is to order off of AliExpress. I have more time then money so I can wait for them to get here... LOL
Thank you guys so very much for putting up with me and my dumb questions.

1. I didn't use the part manager, but maybe it's referring to the plug?

2.spring adapters allow the springs to mount into the drop tubes...

3.yes

4. It's mentioned in this thread somewhere. I used a mix of 3mm, 4mm, and #2x1/4 panheads. I honestly can't remember what was where. If it fit, it was it.

5.i like the AliExpress ones, but they are smaller in dia than advertised. Lots of spring tube for the price though.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

1. I didn't use the part manager, but maybe it's referring to the plug?

2.spring adapters allow the springs to mount into the drop tubes...

3.yes

4. It's mentioned in this thread somewhere. I used a mix of 3mm, 4mm, and #2x1/4 panheads. I honestly can't remember what was where. If it fit, it was it.

5.i like the AliExpress ones, but they are smaller in dia than advertised. Lots of spring tube for the price though.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Thanks for replying. nice to have some help sometimes :)


"1. The parts list says I need spring "adapter 8 flush"... I don't see it even on github."
I changed the naming convention on those. The flush ones are now just the standard. Offset ones have offset in the name.

8mm standard (used to be called flush)
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Spring_Adapter_8.stl

8mm offset
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Spring_Adapter_8_Offset.stl

Offset adapters are better at feeding small short bullets reliably.

[azlester]

Tyler
Which height clutch do I need for the following plates
small pistol bullet and case
small rifle bulet and case
large pistol bullet and case
large rifle case only
Thank you all for the help!

[TylerR]

Tyler
Which height clutch do I need for the following plates
small pistol bullet and case
small rifle bulet and case
large pistol bullet and case
large rifle case only
Thank you all for the help!

There is only one size.

[azlester]

There is only one size.

Oh, so the 8mm and 10mm are not heights but shaft size? Cool!
Easy peasy...lol
Thanks

[djinnpb]

Wanted a nice 300mm base for cases and my only printer that isn't direct drive happens to be my cr10v2 which is the only large enough one for the 300mm base. I used petg and about 2 days and some change in the extruder ground through and it was air printing. I was like NOOOO! Ended up measuring it and finding the layer in the gcode to start there (and removed the G28 to home - to not knock it off the build plate). was able to get it pick up where it left off but I ended up with a nice line o' reminder. Do have to say the larger base is amazing for cases! So far I've just tested it with 40 but it rocks! I also REALLY love the the smaller electronics box. Although putting things in there in a certain order is key compared to the older large boxes. But the form factor looks better! Thanks Tyler! I now have a spare regular base. That and the adjusting angle is super handy! All mine before I'd wedge something in there so they didn't slip. This project has gotten so much better with age! Now, where are the primers!? :P

298046
298048

[azlester]

Does anyone know if you can extend the LED sensor wire if needed? I know that your not supposed to extend the wires on a thermistor... just want be sure it's ok and won't affect the unit.
Thanks

[Tom Myers]

Does anyone know if you can extend the LED sensor wire if needed? I know that your not supposed to extend the wires on a thermistor... just want be sure it's ok and won't affect the unit.
Thanks

Yep. I extended mine about 12 inches and it worked fine.

[azlester]

Yep. I extended mine about 12 inches and it worked fine.

Cool. THANKS!!!!

[TylerR]

Wanted a nice 300mm base for cases and my only printer that isn't direct drive happens to be my cr10v2 which is the only large enough one for the 300mm base. I used petg and about 2 days and some change in the extruder ground through and it was air printing. I was like NOOOO! Ended up measuring it and finding the layer in the gcode to start there (and removed the G28 to home - to not knock it off the build plate). was able to get it pick up where it left off but I ended up with a nice line o' reminder. Do have to say the larger base is amazing for cases! So far I've just tested it with 40 but it rocks! I also REALLY love the the smaller electronics box. Although putting things in there in a certain order is key compared to the older large boxes. But the form factor looks better! Thanks Tyler! I now have a spare regular base. That and the adjusting angle is super handy! All mine before I'd wedge something in there so they didn't slip. This project has gotten so much better with age! Now, where are the primers!? :P


Looking good!

When you find the primers let me know :)

[azlester]

1. I didn't use the part manager, but maybe it's referring to the plug?

2.spring adapters allow the springs to mount into the drop tubes...

3.yes

4. It's mentioned in this thread somewhere. I used a mix of 3mm, 4mm, and #2x1/4 panheads. I honestly can't remember what was where. If it fit, it was it.

5.i like the AliExpress ones, but they are smaller in dia than advertised. Lots of spring tube for the price though.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Thank you for the answers... just for clarification...what if anything do I need to do when using the AliExpress springs since they are smaller in diameter then advertised?
Thanks

[MSUICEMAN]

Thank you for the answers... just for clarification...what if anything do I need to do when using the AliExpress springs since they are smaller in diameter then advertised?
ThanksJust use a smaller sized spring adapter (proper one for the actual spring size, not what it's labeled). Measure and decide which one you need. Like the 15mm spring from my AliExpress order is more like 13.4mm

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Just use a smaller sized spring adapter (proper one for the actual spring size, not what it's labeled). Measure and decide which one you need. Like the 15mm spring from my AliExpress order is more like 13.4mm

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Good example of why I ended up creating spring adapters that were marked and incremented by 1 mm. Trying to match up an adapter with a certain spring is a waste of time.

[45acp]

Hi. I have a question.
Would it be possible to make a wish for a main body with mounting holes for this motor?
Here in Sweden it´s one with a little better quality.
I tried for myself but the files i got after gets corrupt.
298186

[GWS]

Hi. I have a question.
Would it be possible to make a wish for a main body with mounting holes for this motor?
Here in Sweden it´s one with a little better quality.
I tried for myself but the files i got after gets corrupt.
298186

Check your private messages.

[GWS]

btw, I've only been able to find that motor at like 2700rpm so I assume you found one geared way slower.....you need like 12 to 16 rpm for a collator.

[azlester]

Well my luck continues to go per usual... Amazon is out of the Optic light
switch... https://www.amazon.com/Esumsky-Photocell-Switch-Photoswitch-Sensor/dp/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=sr_1_75?crid=1UGY637ED15KG&keywords=12V+Auto+On+Off+Photocell+Light+Switch+Ph otoswitch&qid=1648318755&refinements=p_n_availability%3A2661601011&rnid=2661599011&s=hi&sprefix=12v+auto+on+off+photocell+light+switch+pho toswitch%2Ctools%2C225&sr=1-75
Does anyone have any suggestions for another one?
Thank you all for your help!

[45acp]

btw, I've only been able to find that motor at like 2700rpm so I assume you found one geared way slower.....you need like 12 to 16 rpm for a collator.

I got the motor from Ali. Multiple options for the motor.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33060391833.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802 gIgkTB

[GWS]

Well my luck continues to go per usual... Amazon is out of the Optic light
switch... https://www.amazon.com/Esumsky-Photocell-Switch-Photoswitch-Sensor/dp/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=sr_1_75?crid=1UGY637ED15KG&keywords=12V+Auto+On+Off+Photocell+Light+Switch+Ph otoswitch&qid=1648318755&refinements=p_n_availability%3A2661601011&rnid=2661599011&s=hi&sprefix=12v+auto+on+off+photocell+light+switch+pho toswitch%2Ctools%2C225&sr=1-75
Does anyone have any suggestions for another one?
Thank you all for your help!

I'm not ignoring you....I just don't know anything about the photoswitches since I only messed with proximity sensors....hoping for your sake somebody has some good info for ya.

[azlester]

I'm not ignoring you....I just don't know anything about the photoswitches since I only messed with proximity sensors....hoping for your sake somebody has some good info for ya.

Well I found one but it uses 5 volt supply to operate... so I would have to add a Buck adapter to take the 12v power down to 5 volts... not sure how much room there is in the enclosure for another board.

[GWS]

Well I found one but it uses 5 volt supply to operate... so I would have to add a Buck adapter to take the 12v power down to 5 volts... not sure how much room there is in the enclosure for another board.

I would just buy a 5 volt wall wart, or raid an old computer for its 5 volt power supply......no adapter required.

Warning to those who might want to try the 775 motor.......it requires a recess in the bottom to handle the ball bearing. So the base has to be modified there as well as the mounting hole changes. Looks like a good motor.....waiting to hear the success stories. ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/LsnxmQx9/Screenshot_2022-03-26_115438.png

My mod story was a bit idiotic.....I made the changes for the above base, sent it to 45acp, then realized I modded the wrong base. He wanted the regular base, I modded the 300mm one......so.....I got to do it again.:roll: I learned a lot more that way, so not complaining. Now both sizes can use that motor if someone so desires.

[GWS]

My Creality CR-10v2 bit the dust ....... again. I think I found a fix for prints stopping mid-stream and wanting new filament even though it didn't run out. Will let you know how it turns out. (I found a fixable design weakness in the filament sensor box)

Anybody else have recurring snafu's with Crealitys?

[Tom Myers]

Well I found one but it uses 5 volt supply to operate... so I would have to add a Buck adapter to take the 12v power down to 5 volts... not sure how much room there is in the enclosure for another board.
Maybe this would work, it is listed as 12 volt and as an alternative to the one that is no longer availble.

HiLetgo-Photoresistor-Sensor-Automatic-Controll (https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Photoresistor-Sensor-Automatic-Control/dp/B073XL5161?pd_rd_w=hVkL9&pf_rd_p=8e4731a7-b756-4530-8014-2f681a6d39bb&pf_rd_r=HBCKBVMH6K4MXP30EG3J&pd_rd_r=2088a7c3-de3b-4078-b9ad-02ad81b72734&pd_rd_wg=gjZfi&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_i)

[Hube&Spoke]

Newbie here, I have read the thread from the beginning and the latest manual. Great work and lots of information which answered the majority of my questions. I do have a couple of additional questions as I embark on 3D printing and this Collator Project. If I want to print one full set of parts for 7.62X39 Brass (Mongo Size) and one full set of parts for 7.62X39 Bullets (Normal size), what are the best options to choose on the Parts Generator (or directly to the stl files) for each (Brass and Bullets)?

Also, it seems that the motors shafts are not pinned? If they are not pinned what is the best way to pin them. Of should I just use the "hex couplers"? It seems that if I use the Hex Coupler I can still use the "Clutch" option?

Thank you for you help.

[stanford]

Tyler,

I need a favor. Can you remove the ridge from the APP_Bullet_Slide_223, whenever the boolits fall base down instead of base up they always get stuck on the ridge and I have to use a flathead screwdriver to lift them up a little. This actually applies to all of the plates but I just need the 223 right now.

298256

Appreciate it.

[r4ndy]

Well my luck continues to go per usual... Amazon is out of the Optic light
switch... https://www.amazon.com/Esumsky-Photocell-Switch-Photoswitch-Sensor/dp/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=sr_1_75?crid=1UGY637ED15KG&keywords=12V+Auto+On+Off+Photocell+Light+Switch+Ph otoswitch&qid=1648318755&refinements=p_n_availability%3A2661601011&rnid=2661599011&s=hi&sprefix=12v+auto+on+off+photocell+light+switch+pho toswitch%2Ctools%2C225&sr=1-75
Does anyone have any suggestions for another one?
Thank you all for your help!

I am using these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XL5161?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

[azlester]

I am using these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XL5161?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Your the 2nd one to recommend this... Thank you!
How long is the wire of the sensor? I have read that the wire inside is on the thin side of things...

[r4ndy]

Your the 2nd one to recommend this... Thank you!
How long is the wire of the sensor? I have read that the wire inside is on the thin side of things...

The wire is 12”. I spliced in some wire from an old wall wart to get some extra distance.

[azlester]

Thanks!
Next stupid question.... How did you fasten down the boards(Optic control, motor control) in the electronics box or do you just let them hang in there?
Thanks