Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

Just want to share my experience wasting a lot of time tying to find another source for springs for TylerR's awesome bullet feeder dies. After a long Google search 3 times I finally found springs at McMaster-Carr that may work nearly as good as the ones I bought in the assortment pack for $11. You can order them in packs of 12 for about $12.....but then you have to pay shipping and tax for another $10.....so $22 for a measly dozen springs. https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K957/ Forget that.

The Chinese spring Assortment, which I bought for $11 has 10 springs of the right size which is shown in my pictures of my finished dies. Amazon no shipping. But you have a large # of other springs to store and maybe never use of course. I did find that assortment at another amazon store for a little cheaper so I ordered that one too for extras. So I'm springed for life I think.;)

Plus I think the round ends on the Chinese ones, being really just a flipped coil on each end allows for a neater closer, more professional look. I've got three built using 6 springs.....so I can now build 7 more as needed for other calibers of pistol and rifle. For me, should be enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W5200-Spring-Assortment/dp/B0002KO1X0?pd_rd_w=4ANJb&pf_rd_p=bcca84ef-5f4d-4682-852e-b0b38f16e8ba&pf_rd_r=KHSG9TQP0XF26HVSXG3F&pd_rd_r=1ed6be8a-9436-49f2-a9c5-d80049b88daa&pd_rd_wg=8JZm8&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_csi_pb_allspark_BIA_0_t. Of course I pay for Amazon prime which I use all year. So really how much am I saving? Who knows?

The springs I use is the extension springs in the top left corner of the assortment. Crazy to have to buy all those springs....but it's the cheapest way I can find...and they fit like a glove.
https://i.postimg.cc/hjVQc2DH/IMG-1105.jpg

[nhyrum]

Just want to share my experience wasting a lot of time tying to find another source for springs for TylerR's awesome bullet feeder dies. After a long Google search 3 times I finally found springs at McMaster-Carr that may work nearly as good as the ones I bought in the assortment pack for $11. You can order them in packs of 12 for about $12.....but then you have to pay shipping and tax for another $10.....so $22 for a measly dozen springs. https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K957/ Forget that.

The Chinese spring Assortment, which I bought for $11 has 10 springs of the right size which is shown in my pictures of my finished dies. Amazon no tax. But you have a large # of other springs to store and maybe never use of course. I did find that assortment at another amazon store for a little cheaper so I ordered that one too for extras. So I'm springed for life I think.;)

Plus I think the round ends on the Chinese ones, being really just a flipped coil on each end allows for a neater closer, more professional look. I've got three built using 6 springs.....so I can now build 7 more as needed for other calibers of pistol and rifle. For me, should be enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W5200-Spring-Assortment/dp/B0002KO1X0?pd_rd_w=4ANJb&pf_rd_p=bcca84ef-5f4d-4682-852e-b0b38f16e8ba&pf_rd_r=KHSG9TQP0XF26HVSXG3F&pd_rd_r=1ed6be8a-9436-49f2-a9c5-d80049b88daa&pd_rd_wg=8JZm8&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_csi_pb_allspark_BIA_0_t. Of course I pay for Amazon prime which I use all year. So really how much am I saving? Who knows?

The springs I use is the extension springs in the top left corner of the assortment. Crazy to have to buy all those springs....but it's the cheapest way I can find...and they fit like a glove.
https://i.postimg.cc/hjVQc2DH/IMG-1105.jpgDo you have a preference for the feed springs? The ones that go from the collator to the feed die?

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[TylerR]

Do you have a preference for the feed springs? The ones that go from the collator to the feed die?



How much of a rush are you in? These are the best quality and cheapest springs.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.28844c4dYdm 39m

[nhyrum]

not a huge hurry, direct from china is fine. what diameters would be best for 9mm and 300BO? could i get one diameter for the both? would 11mm be too small for 9?

[TylerR]

not a huge hurry, direct from china is fine. what diameters would be best for 9mm and 300BO? could i get one diameter for the both? would 11mm be too small for 9?

I would go with the 12. that is 10mm ID.

Figured I would add a little here. If you want to cover any and all calibers, bullets or brass, go with the 15mm, 12mm, and 10mm. you will have all you could ever need.

[r4ndy]

I question if it will work, and I have no way to test it, but it is possible one of the APP offset adapters could solve the problem.

Try the "Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter" on the Feed Die and then the "APP_Offset_Connector_13", then the drop tube you already printed. See if that could work with clearance. More parts but there may be a solution within my existing design. Please let us know if it works.

Confirming your suggestion works with both the printed die and the MBF one. You can angle over the fourth or third hole. My press runs smoother with the powder bar coming out toward the fourth hole which is perfect for 223. Wish I tried all this before buying the MBF die and DAA small powder bar. At least I don’t have to buy the large bar and more dies for 45 and 223. Thanks again for this awesome project.

290859290860

[TylerR]

Confirming your suggestion works with both the printed die and the MBF one. You can angle over the fourth or third hole. My press runs smoother with the powder bar coming out toward the fourth hole which is perfect for 223. Wish I tried all this before buying the MBF die and DAA small powder bar. At least I don’t have to buy the large bar and more dies for 45 and 223. Thanks again for this awesome project.


That is very cool feedback thank you, and I am glad it works!

Clearly they should bring me on as a consultant. haha

[wbbh]

That is very cool feedback thank you, and I am glad it works!

Clearly they should bring me on as a consultant. haha

Absolutely.

[nhyrum]

has anyone used the 9mm feed die with a cartridge like 357 sig? does the bottleneck get in the way, or is it no issue?

im also having an issue with the parts builder. Ive done a bit of troubleshooting and it seems to lock up around 90% on the item before the 300 BO die set.

290874290875

[TylerR]

has anyone used the 9mm feed die with a cartridge like 357 sig? does the bottleneck get in the way, or is it no issue?

im also having an issue with the parts builder. Ive done a bit of troubleshooting and it seems to lock up around 90% on the item before the 300 BO die set.


bottle neck will not be able to go up in to the die properly.

The parts builder is a bit out of date with some of the recent changes I have made. It is probably the 300 BO die that is messing it up.

[nhyrum]

bottle neck will not be able to go up in to the die properly.

The parts builder is a bit out of date with some of the recent changes I have made. It is probably the 300 BO die that is messing it up.Would a custom set have to be designed? Or could a 40 body and 9mm guts be used? I don't shoot 357 SIG, but 9x25 Dillon, which is the same concept but using a 10mm parent case instead of 40 s&w.

I figured it was the 300 bo. In the big list of parts there's only a 300 Bo body (which is really all that's needed that's different, right?) So I could see the program hanging up looking for the rest of the files, using the same lookup table setup.

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[TylerR]

Would a custom set have to be designed? Or could a 40 body and 9mm guts be used? I don't shoot 357 SIG, but 9x25 Dillon, which is the same concept but using a 10mm parent case instead of 40 s&w.

I figured it was the 300 bo. In the big list of parts there's only a 300 Bo body (which is really all that's needed that's different, right?) So I could see the program hanging up looking for the rest of the files, using the same lookup table setup.


It would require an insert to be designed that would be a cross between 9mm and .40. Would use the .40 body. I can probably throw one together for you.

Yes, it became an issue for naming because there is 300 winmag and 300 blackout. If you just manually grab the .308 insert and the .300 BO body you will be good.

[nhyrum]

It would require an insert to be designed that would be a cross between 9mm and .40. Would use the .40 body. I can probably throw one together for you.

Yes, it became an issue for naming because there is 300 winmag and 300 blackout. If you just manually grab the .308 insert and the .300 BO body you will be good.It would be great if you could do that! Thank you.

I'm expecting my new filament to be here sometime today, so if it doesn't get here too late, I'll start printing everything I need tonight!

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[TylerR]

It would be great if you could do that! Thank you.

I'm expecting my new filament to be here sometime today, so if it doesn't get here too late, I'll start printing everything I need tonight!


After looking at it closer, I realize I spoke too soon. The 9mm die should work just fine with 357 sig. :)

[GWS]

I found some red satin I can live with.....came in....printed the 9mm feed die with it. Turned out pretty good.....might have liked a darker red, but it pretty......ah Christmassy at least.;)

So I think I'm done with pistol! Yup they all work 100% Very impressed TylerR.

https://i.postimg.cc/h4sy48Qf/IMG-3946.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/cCFXDZGQ/IMG-3947.jpg

What brand is the red? Overture Satin Red. I'm printing perfect prints now with my Creality for these Feeder Dies with no stringing inside the tubes. Settings on the slicer are as follows:

Bed 65C Nozzle 215C
Retraction Speed 80
Retraction Travel 1.5
Retraction Amount 6
Minimum Retraction .02
Retraction Restart Speed 50
No Z hop
Walls 2
Layer height .12mm
top and bottom solid layers 2 (I may try 3 top layers)

I ran the next smaller drill bit in the tubes....just ran them up and down 3 or 4 times and the inserts slide nice. I did print the 9mm using the "set" .stl to make my Gcode. I still think running them one at a time is even better.....but it takes longer.....this print took 6 hours....Am going to start printing the medium down tube and the #10 spring adapter for this 9mm feeder die next.....they take an hour 40 and an hour 10 in that order......will print them separate to get the smoother cylinders....I mean I don't have to stand there and watch! (I used to when the printer was new....for a while :))

I'm thinking I'm going to ask around looking for some brass to test the 357 sig on my .38 and my 9mm feeder dies. May not find any....not too popular around here.

[mktacop]

Question for the group…

I have a Dillon 750, but no Dillon case feeder. I’ve printed the main body, but am unsure how it will connect to the clear case feed tube. I get that I need to print the brass slide plate and the brass drop hole adaptor.

Do those mate up to the clear tube, or what other part(s) should I print to have the optical switch in place?


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[GWS]

Question for the group…

I have a Dillon 750, but no Dillon case feeder. I’ve printed the main body, but am unsure how it will connect to the clear case feed tube. I get that I need to print the brass slide plate and the brass drop hole adaptor.

Do those mate up to the clear tube, or what other part(s) should I print to have the optical switch in place?


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The optical stuff is mounted on top of your clear tube I think. Then more tube or a spring to the collator. It makes for a really high collator. You do have to create a mounting method to directly line up your collator as I did, or use flexible springs as others have done. My direct mating allows a lower collator, unless I missed another way.....

What I did is use a proximity sensor instead....right next to the Collator just under the brass drop hole adapter. Picture of mine over my Pro Chucker is below:

https://i.postimg.cc/jjGrCJMf/IMG-3747.jpg

[mktacop]

The optical stuff is mounted on top of your clear tube I think. Then more tube or a spring to the collator. It makes for a really high collator. You do have to create a mounting method to directly line up your collator as I did, or use flexible springs as others have done.

What I did is use a proximity sensor instead....right next to the Collator just under the brass drop hole adapter. Picture of mine over my Pro Chucker is below:

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/jjGrCJMf/IMG-3747.jpg

Thanks. The Dillon already has a mounting pole that came with it. I just don’t think there is space between where the case feeder will sit on that pole and where the feed tube drops down to the clear tube that came on the Dillon.


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[GWS]

Pictures? Or maybe sketch a little birds eye view on where it mounts? So the Dillon came with the black tube? If so then is it the same as the one on the 650?......and if so TylerR may have a mount in mind?........since he created Mongo to handle cases.

I'm thinking unless your have a really high ceiling, you may have to cut a lot of the clear tube off....or order aftermarket tubing to replace the original....

[mktacop]

Here it is, with and without the main body attached.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211029/45be38f2522bc7383f1893c5710a5d63.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211029/fdfee9a6436cec6f5d83ff5f65f61be5.jpg


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[GWS]

I'd print the slide and the outlet first and see where you are....Then adust or make adapters to make it fit. TylerR does have an under-collator version of his prox switch that might take less vertical space than mine even. I tried to print his switch housing but the print settings made a crappy job of it....but with my new settings it might work. I was going to print his version out to see how much space it saves, but haven't made it yet. He has obviously, and can share that......I really curious how long it is. Prox works simpler, he will tell you.

I was just looking at their video at Dillon where the press swivels in a circle.....it seems to me that the tube at the vertical coming out of the press frame is designed to let the tube swivel. That helps.....the plastic standoff between the tube and the clear case tubing could be lengthened or cut down. (by 3d printing it)

[TylerR]

I don't think trying to use the clear tube is going to work with the post that is designed for the Dillon feeder, because it is not just a matter of getting the height correct. If it was you could just cut the tube. It also has to line up perfectly horizontally so it is a straight shot to the press, and the Dillon feeder is much bigger then my standard feeder. So it's not going to come out far enough to line up. The Mongo would maybe work, but I have never seen anyone try it.

My suggestion would be to use the springs for case feeding. That is what I do.

[nhyrum]

It might not be the simplest solution, but maybe creating an offset mount would help? That way you could move the collator out enough to get the drop to line up, you could also use that offset mount to get the vertical alignment right. I think all that would be needed would be the dimensions on the Dillon collator, post to output and either an angle measurement, to then figure out how high the Dillon feeder is and have the offset mount add wherever is needed. Probably easier said than done, and a spring would do the same job

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[nhyrum]

I found some red satin I can live with.....came in....printed the 9mm feed die with it. Turned out pretty good.....might have liked a darker red, but it pretty......ah Christmassy at least.;)

So I think I'm done with pistol! Yup they all work 100% Very impressed TylerR.

https://i.postimg.cc/h4sy48Qf/IMG-3946.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/cCFXDZGQ/IMG-3947.jpg

What brand is the red? Overture Satin Red. I'm printing perfect prints now with my Creality for these Feeder Dies with no stringing inside the tubes. Settings on the slicer are as follows:

Bed 65C Nozzle 215C
Retraction Speed 80
Retraction Travel 1.5
Retraction Amount 6
Minimum Retraction .02
Retraction Restart Speed 50
No Z hop
Walls 2
Layer height .12mm
top and bottom solid layers 2 (I may try 3 top layers)

I ran the next smaller drill bit in the tubes....just ran them up and down 3 or 4 times and the inserts slide nice. I did print the 9mm using the "set" .stl to make my Gcode. I still think running them one at a time is even better.....but it takes longer.....this print took 6 hours....Am going to start printing the medium down tube and the #10 spring adapter for this 9mm feeder die next.....they take an hour 40 and an hour 10 in that order......will print them separate to get the smoother cylinders....I mean I don't have to stand there and watch! (I used to when the printer was new....for a while :))

I'm thinking I'm going to ask around looking for some brass to test the 357 sig on my .38 and my 9mm feeder dies. May not find any....not too popular around here.How fast (travel speed) do you print the dies, and what about normal stuff like the plates and smaller odds and ends? I printed three 300 blackout plate at 60 mm/second, and I feel like I could have gone faster...

Do you print the tall skinny things like the dies on a raft? I just know I've had way too many things like that fall over halfway through printing...

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[TylerR]

It might not be the simplest solution, but maybe creating an offset mount would help? That way you could move the collator out enough to get the drop to line up, you could also use that offset mount to get the vertical alignment right. I think all that would be needed would be the dimensions on the Dillon collator, post to output and either an angle measurement, to then figure out how high the Dillon feeder is and have the offset mount add wherever is needed. Probably easier said than done, and a spring would do the same job

It definitely could be done. For me just not something worth the time spent.

I actually use the same case feeder for my 650 as I do for my APP. Just twist the adapter off one and put it on the other. Takes two seconds. I would not be able to do that with straight rigid tube.

[nhyrum]

It definitely could be done. For me just not something worth the time spent.

I actually use the same case feeder for my 650 as I do for my APP. Just twist the adapter off one and put it on the other. Takes two seconds. I would not be able to do that with straight rigid tube.Yeah, I can definitely see it not being worth it.

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[TylerR]

Figured I would add this pic I just took as an example setup with springs. This is using my Mongo collator.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/748652796513091659/903485613498597426/IMG_1352.JPG

[GWS]

How fast (travel speed) do you print the dies, and what about normal stuff like the plates and smaller odds and ends? I printed three 300 blackout plate at 60 mm/second, and I feel like I could have gone faster...

Do you print the tall skinny things like the dies on a raft? I just know I've had way too many things like that fall over halfway through printing...

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Travel Speed is 70mm/second (default setting for IdeaMaker) I've never changed that setting.

I never use rafts....well ok I tried it once on the starwars helmet for my Grandson.....print failed, so I printed it again without.

When I used Creality's treated glass bed, I had all kinds of trouble with lifting. That went totally away when I bought TylerR's recommended polypropylene bed sanded once in a while with 220grit sandpaper (twice...so that'd be once a year ;)).....but I wipe it with 99% rubbing alcohol at the beginning of EVERY print. Since then, Zero problems with lift....and zero need for rafts. I just printed another feeder die today....no raft...no spaghetti from that little tall skinny falling over......just is not a problem anymore.

Question for TylerR.......what's the best way of stretching a spring (evenly) so you can see through it, which makes it screw on your threaded parts? Sorry for the typo on Mongo......again. I know better, I just don't have the brain/finger connection I used to have.

[TylerR]

Travel Speed is 70mm/second (default setting for IdeaMaker) I've never changed that setting.

I never use rafts....well ok I tried it once on the starwars helmet for my Grandson.....print failed, so I printed it again without.

When I used Creality's treated glass bed, I had all kinds of trouble with lifting. That went totally away when I bought TylerR's recommended polypropylene bed sanded once in a while with 220grit sandpaper (twice...so that'd be once a year ;)).....but I wipe it with 99% rubbing alcohol at the beginning of EVERY print. Since then, Zero problems with lift....and zero need for rafts. I just printed another feeder die today....no raft...no spaghetti from that little tall skinny falling over......just is not a problem anymore.

Question for TylerR.......what's the best way of stretching a spring (evenly) so you can see through it, which makes it screw on your threaded parts? Sorry for the typo on Mongo......again. I know better, I just don't have the brain/finger connection I used to have.

Good question. I connect one end of the spring in my vice, and a pair of vice grips to the other. Put on a safety glasses and maybe a football helmet (haha) to protect myself if something gives way. Then I walk across the room until I can feel the spring give just slightly. Take the pressure off and see how much you have managed to stretch it. I find there is a very fine line between getting no stretch at all, and too much. So I try to take it slow. And then of course I clip off the very ends of the spring because those coils are ruined in the process.

Oh and yes, polypropylene is master race print surface :)
Makes good prints so easy, a caveman can do it.

[nhyrum]

I can't remember what I put on my glass plate, but it's something like 2 or 3 mil thick kapton or something. It is a polymer of some sort. I got it early on trying to print petg. It had an adhesive on one side, so I suck it to the bottom of the textured glass creality plate. Stuff sticks to it really well when it's hot. So much so I once had to heat the little scraper with a torch to get stuff off

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[GWS]

Thanks TylerR........I will try that tomorrow. I've tried stretching one, but it didn't turnout that uniform......hate that with all these fancy feed dies....ruins the perfection.....we can't have that......;)

I've lost the source of the polypropylene beds......you still have them to share? These beds are thick beds maybe 3/16" thick.

Picture below: (just clamped to the original glass bed)

https://i.postimg.cc/9MW47RsY/IMG-3834.jpg

[mktacop]

Figured I would add this pic I just took as an example setup with springs. This is using my Mongo collator.


Thank you sir. What is the part that I circled in your photo?

291008

[TylerR]

Thank you sir. What is the part that I circled in your photo?


That is the drop tube. With the proximity sensor and spring adapter on top.

[mktacop]

Thank you sir. Does that piece fit directly into the colored plastic piece that comes with a Dillon caliber conversion, or do I need to print another adaptor?

[TylerR]

Thanks TylerR........I will try that tomorrow. I've tried stretching one, but it didn't turnout that uniform......hate that with all these fancy feed dies....ruins the perfection.....we can't have that......;)

I've lost the source of the polypropylene beds......you still have them to share? These beds are thick beds maybe 3/16" thick.

Picture below: (just clamped to the original glass bed)


I have gotten mine at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFY2LPN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087X1GND6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

Thank you sir. Does that piece fit directly into the colored plastic piece that comes with a Dillon caliber conversion, or do I need to print another adaptor?

That is the "Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter". There is pretty much an adapter for everything at this point.

[mktacop]

Thank you again!

[TylerR]

Thank you again!

You bet. Also check out this funky part. "1. Mounts - Case_Feed_Bracket". It keeps the plastic insert from falling out.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/903647088036941904/IMG_1353.JPG

[mktacop]

You bet. Also check out this funky part. "1. Mounts - Case_Feed_Bracket". It keeps the plastic insert from falling out.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/903647088036941904/IMG_1353.JPG

Cool! Thank you!


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[GWS]

Good question. I connect one end of the spring in my vice, and a pair of vice grips to the other. Put on a safety glasses and maybe a football helmet (haha) to protect myself if something gives way. Then I walk across the room until I can feel the spring give just slightly. Take the pressure off and see how much you have managed to stretch it. I find there is a very fine line between getting no stretch at all, and too much. So I try to take it slow. And then of course I clip off the very ends of the spring because those coils are ruined in the process.

Oh and yes, polypropylene is master race print surface :)
Makes good prints so easy, a caveman can do it.

Well that makes good sense. I'm thinking I'll screw a bolt into it a 1/2"...then vice it. That what you do? I still have pieces of the Hornady spring left....too short for anything.....unless I stretch it.....seeing bullets/cases through it is good anyway.

You mentioned to nhyrum about using it on your case feeder....I have wondered about cases with rims like .357 and .44 mag whether the rims could find unwanted purchase between. Guess that would depend on how much air you have between.......and what about long rifle cartridges.....no problems with those?

On the poly p......totally agree! and thanks for the link.....I've passed it on already....:)

[TylerR]

You mentioned to nhyrum about using it on your case feeder....I have wondered about cases with rims like .357 and .44 mag whether the rims could find unwanted purchase between. Guess that would depend on how much air you have between.......and what about long rifle cartridges.....no problems with those?


I don't think the rims would be an issue as long as the spring is not stretch too far. One thing nice about the china springs is they are not stretched at all.

Missed the vice question. I don't use a bolt. I just clamp down on the first few coils of the spring with the corners of the vise jaws. Then use vice grips on the other side. It is a little scary when you get that sucker stretched out though.

[GWS]

I don't think the rims would be an issue as long as the spring is not stretch too far. One thing nice about the china springs is they are not stretched at all.

Missed the vice question. I don't use a bolt. I just clamp down on the first few coils of the spring with the corners of the vise jaws. Then use vice grips on the other side. It is a little scary when you get that sucker stretched out though.

Well I was a little spooked about the end coming loose from the vice at full stretch.;) For the medium #10 part the Hornady spring looked just about right, and I found that a hollow threaded lamp bolt screwed inside of it perfect....so I screwed in a half inch and viced both together.....figuring to save the spring in there. Seemed to work. So I got her done....yup a little scary alright.

[nhyrum]

Hey @GWS when you print your dies, do you print them one at a time? So far I've had two failed prints. One with two complete die sets and a drop tube, and another with just one set. The one set failed about half way through, but that was after I cranked the speed up from 30mm/s to 60, with a raft, and the other just after like the third later with no raft running at 60mm/s. I didn't clean the bed before either, so that could have been the issue. I've got one set and the drop tube running at 30 again, with a raft and cleaning with alcohol. Hopefully they stick, or I might just have to print them one at a time, I think they fall over when it quickly travels from one to another. Maybe I'll limit the travel speed before going to one at a time...

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[GWS]

Hey @GWS when you print your dies, do you print them one at a time? So far I've had two failed prints. One with two complete die sets and a drop tube, and another with just one set. The one set failed about half way through, but that was after I cranked the speed up from 30mm/s to 60, with a raft, and the other just after like the third later with no raft running at 60mm/s. I didn't clean the bed before either, so that could have been the issue. I've got one set and the drop tube running at 30 again, with a raft and cleaning with alcohol. Hopefully they stick, or I might just have to print them one at a time, I think they fall over when it quickly travels from one to another. Maybe I'll limit the travel speed before going to one at a time...

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There are quite a few variables and more than one can cause lifting and non-stick. What temperature is your bed, what temp is the filament, how stable and level is the printer sitting, and what material is your bed? Cleaning the bed is crucial IMO.

I have printed both one at a time and as a set. One at a time gives a better finish, and you're right that jerking from one to the other can cause problems......if....you have a bed prone to lifting. Sanded Polypropylene was the best decision I ever made, but if you don't have that, you may have to use adhesive.....I never have so I'm not a good source of info on them. Bed temp mated properly to the PLA you're using is important. Can be too high or too low. For what I use, 60C was too low and 70C was too high. Like the 3 bears.....65C was just right.;) Depends on the PLA.

I had problems with stringing with the settings I was using...Z hop may jerk too much so turn it off....retraction settings are critical too, but also can be dependant on the PLA, and your machine.....but look in my posts back a few pages, and you will see how I changed that.

What bed are you trying to use? I had pure hell with Creality's treated glass bed after only 2 months of prints......even cleaning quit working.

[nhyrum]

There are quite a few variables and more than one can cause lifting and non-stick. What temperature is your bed, what temp is the filament, how stable and level is the printer sitting, and what material is your bed? Cleaning the bed is crucial IMO.

I have printed both one at a time and as a set. One at a time gives a better finish, and you're right that jerking from one to the other can cause problems......if....you have a bed prone to lifting. Sanded Polypropylene was the best decision I ever made, but if you don't have that, you may have to use adhesive.....I never have so I'm not a good source of info on them. Bed temp mated properly to the PLA you're using is important. Can be too high or too low. For what I use, 60C was too low and 70C was too high. Like the 3 bears.....65C was just right.;) Depends on the PLA.

I had problems with stringing with the settings I was using...Z hop may jerk too much so turn it off....retraction settings are critical too, but also can be dependant on the PLA, and your machine.....but look in my posts back a few pages, and you will see how I changed that.

What bed are you trying to use? I had pure hell with Creality's treated glass bed after only 2 months of prints......even cleaning quit working.After a bit of digging, the bed material I'm using currently is PEI. It's been kind of off and on about good adhesion. It's either stuck so hard I'm afraid of breaking the glass it's stuck to, or it let's go pretty early on.

I'm using esun silk pla with 215 on the hot end and 65 on the bed, I copied your settings as much as I could, I believe the only thing I've changed is the print speed.

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[wbbh]

Bed Adhesion, FWIW, I've been printing with my Ender 5 using the original Creality magnetic plastic mat and Sunlu PLA filaments, black, gray, yellow, blue and clear. I've had good luck with adhesion.

In my experience, keeping the nozzle close to the mat is the key. When leveling the bed I try for a good amount of drag on a sheet of paper under the nozzle. The close fit pushes the plastic into the rough surface and insure a good bond, even for tall narrow tube items like dies, feed adapters and flanged bushings I use to mount a camera in the tool heads of my Dillon 750 or in the body of a powder drop die, to check for powder.

I did get some contamination when I tried to use some Overture clear PETD that I never got to work correctly. After the PETD fiasco I cleaned with 90% rubbing alcohol and actually washed it with detergent and hot water. I do not clean for regular use since, I use the lift tab on the mat and grab the printed item without touching the mat. Realignment only requires touching the edges. So far i've printed five entire collators, one spare collator body, dozens of dillon 9mm anti wobble pins, 750 and 1050 brass feed stops, tool holders, cellphone charger holders, whistles, 1022 "parts" and a few halloween skulls planter/candy dish. I've got a replacement glass bed and a box of glue sticks I haven't needed so far.

[mktacop]

After getting the majority of the bullet/case feeder printed for my case feeder build, I realized that the main body would line up with the clear case tube on my Dillon 750. The problem was that the gap between the two was too short for the Drop_Tube_Alt_X to fit so that I could use a sensor to stop the motor when the tube was full. One option would have been to cut the clear tube to size, but I decided against doing that in case I ever get a Dillon case feeder. I could also have designed/printed a new tube using Fusion360 and my printer has the vertical capacity to do that.

Since I don’t have the original files to manipulate in a program like Fusion360, I took an alternate path using Tinkercad. I was able to shorten the Drop_Tube_Alt_X significantly so that it now fits between the case feeder and the clear tube.

I’ve run a couple of tests and the cases are dropping just as they should.

I’d have the whole thing rewired and running if I hadn’t goofed with a wire placement and fried the optical sensor module. [emoji22]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211030/d01c110d236930ea03bf211f65b6e150.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211030/5b9315fc3c962182ca5b18e29db2c438.jpg


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[GWS]

After a bit of digging, the bed material I'm using currently is PEI. It's been kind of off and on about good adhesion. It's either stuck so hard I'm afraid of breaking the glass it's stuck to, or it let's go pretty early on.

I'm using esun silk pla with 215 on the hot end and 65 on the bed, I copied your settings as much as I could, I believe the only thing I've changed is the print speed.

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Looking good! BTW, what is the outside diameter of that Dillon tube......and the inside diameter.....

Is there only one tube or does Dillon supply more than one based on caliber?

I was tempted to try PEI, but then TylerR sweared by Poly P. I'm glad I listened. It's been heaven sent. So easy to use and so predictable.

For my long skinnys, I tried something different yesterday....and got away with it. ;)

I printed a Medium downtube (part that goes on the feeder die insert......timed it so that I watched it go from 95% to 100%......soon as the printing ended (temps normally start back to zero), I reset the temperatures back to 215 and 65, so I wouldn't have to wait for them to reheat, I used a wood chisel bevel side down and popped the finished part with it (it went flying), immediately wiped the hot bed with 99% alcohol, re-homed the nozzle, pushed the command to print the #10 Spring Adapter, and it started the second print......without skipping a beat.

One hour later I had the both parts to finish my 9mm feed die done. Why'd I do that? 1. To save a lot of time usually wasted between prints, waiting for it to heat up. 2. I don't have the imperfections often caused by printing two parts side by side. 3. And I think the parts are stronger when they don't have to cool off between layers when the nozzle is printing the companion part's layers. 4. I'm thinking I will save wear and tear on my printer by not going through as many heat up procedures......I don't think the nozzle or the bed lost much heat, because the second print started in about 20 seconds.

https://i.postimg.cc/3J95xfb0/IMG-3948.jpg

[mktacop]

Looking good! BTW, what is the outside diameter of that Dillon tube......and the inside diameter.....

Is there only one tube or does Dillon supply more than one based on caliber?

I measured the OD at 18.2 mm and the ID at 14 mm. The tube comes with the press, so as far as I know, that’s the only one.


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[TylerR]

After getting the majority of the bullet/case feeder printed for my case feeder build, I realized that the main body would line up with the clear case tube on my Dillon 750. The problem was that the gap between the two was too short for the Drop_Tube_Alt_X to fit so that I could use a sensor to stop the motor when the tube was full. One option would have been to cut the clear tube to size, but I decided against doing that in case I ever get a Dillon case feeder. I could also have designed/printed a new tube using Fusion360 and my printer has the vertical capacity to do that.



nice work mktacop, looks good. it is a 2 in one part, handling both the proximity and optical sensors. Shortening it up looks like it did the trick.

[TylerR]

Looking good! BTW, what is the outside diameter of that Dillon tube......and the inside diameter.....

Is there only one tube or does Dillon supply more than one based on caliber?

I was tempted to try PEI, but then TylerR sweared by Poly P. I'm glad I listened. It's been heaven sent. So easy to use and so predictable.

For my long skinnys, I tried something different yesterday....and got away with it. ;)

I printed a Medium downtube (part that goes on the feeder die insert......timed it so that I watched it go from 95% to 100%......soon as the printing ended (temps normally start back to zero), I reset the temperatures back to 215 and 65, so I wouldn't have to wait for them to reheat, I used a wood chisel bevel side down and popped the finished part with it (it went flying), immediately wiped the hot bed with 99% alcohol, re-homed the nozzle, pushed the command to print the #10 Spring Adapter, and it started the second print......without skipping a beat.

One hour later I had the both parts to finish my 9mm feed die done. Why'd I do that? 1. To save a lot of time usually wasted between prints, waiting for it to heat up. 2. I don't have the imperfections often caused by printing two parts side by side. 3. And I think the parts are stronger when they don't have to cool off between layers when the nozzle is printing the companion part's layers. 4. I'm thinking I will save wear and tear on my printer by not going through as many heat up procedures......I don't think the nozzle or the bed lost much heat, because the second print started in about 20 seconds.


How do you make these parts look so dang good?

[GWS]

How do you make these parts look so dang good?

You're not serious are you? Yours look great. I had heard that the IdeaMaker slicer might have an edge for quality prints, and that's one reason I gave them a shot, but having not used anything else I wouldn't know the difference, nor could I reason why that might be the case.....You sure you don't just like Satin PLA?

The real reason I chose IdeaMaker was that the menu's were laid out in a more compatible way for my pea brain. Cura just didn't make a lot of sense to me.....sorta like DesignSpark is not wired like I am either, but I like that it's powerful like Autocad and I'm trying really hard to learn it.....well a better way of saying that would be I'm trying really hard not to forget what I learn. Relearning it every day is challenging.;)

[TylerR]

You're not serious are you? Yours look great. I had heard that the IdeaMaker slicer might have an edge for quality prints, and that's one reason I gave them a shot, but having not used anything else I wouldn't know the difference, nor could I reason why that might be the case.....You sure you don't just like Satin PLA?

The real reason I chose IdeaMaker was that the menu's were laid out in a more compatible way for my pea brain. Cura just didn't make a lot of sense to me.....sorta like DesignSpark is not wired like I am either, but I like that it's powerful like Autocad and I'm trying really hard to learn it.....well a better way of saying that would be I'm trying really hard not to forget what I learn. Relearning it every day is challenging.;)

I think that might be it! All I know is your pics make them look amazing.

[nhyrum]

Well, had a third go off spaghetti mess. I think part of the issue is with the die insert. With cura not generating any support for it's flange area, because it doesn't really need it, all that holds it to the bed are about two lines width of the very tip. So I'm going to print everything by themselves and force cura to generate support just for stability sake. I'm going to order a pp sheet and give that a go, my pei is a bit messed up from attempts at getting petg off it. If all else fails, there's always tree supports and sanding...

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[TylerR]

Well, had a third go off spaghetti mess. I think part of the issue is with the die insert. With cura not generating any support for it's flange area, because it doesn't really need it, all that holds it to the bed are about two lines width of the very tip. So I'm going to print everything by themselves and force cura to generate support just for stability sake. I'm going to order a pp sheet and give that a go, my pei is a bit messed up from attempts at getting petg off it. If all else fails, there's always tree supports and sanding...

GWS and I don't mean to sound like a broken record, but you just did yourself a huge favor. Once you start printing on the PP bed you are going to wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Trust me.

If it comes pre-textured you are good. If not, sand it with 220 grit paper.

[nhyrum]

GWS and I don't mean to sound like a broken record, but you just did yourself a huge favor. Once you start printing on the PP bed you are going to wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Trust me.

If it comes pre-textured you are good. If not, sand it with 220 grit paper.Everything else I've printed has REALLY stuck to this pei. And I mean REALLY stuck. I even broke a few of the odds and ends i printed the other day like the plate handle thing trying to get it of. But I did just order a pp bed, should be here Tuesday. And I'll get 2 more rolls of the esun silk pla to make up for half the spool I've wasted trying to print these blasted dies [emoji23] oh well, that's the world of printing on an ender 3 I guess. Shell do, but I reckon it's like loading with a lee whack a mole(ok, maybe the like 50 dollar Lee press. It's good enough... Ish) I really want to try printing nylon or PC (especially since I found some 3d printable Glock lowers...)

I'd also like a resin machine, but I don't think the materials are quite up there yet, I don't think they have nylon or PC type materials for them.

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[GWS]

....all that holds it to the bed are about two lines width of the very tip.
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Looking at my last 9mm insert, there is only 4 walls on the bed....a space between the two inside walls and the two outside walls.
I'm wondering if the hole between the inside layers and the outside layers would fill in if 3 walls were chosen instead of two? What's your experience TylerR? On this part even one wall might help, I'm thinking. But one thing is for sure, even with 2 walls, mine has never fallen over, requiring a decent bump with the Chisel, as I already described, to break it loose. NO RAFT either.

https://i.postimg.cc/4NF7jGRW/IMG-3949.jpg

There!, TylerR......now can you see some imperfections with this close up? ;)

[nhyrum]

Looking at my last 9mm insert, there is only 4 walls on the bed....a space between the two inside walls and the two outside walls.
I'm wondering if the hole between the inside layers and the outside layers would fill in if 3 walls were chosen instead of two? What's your experience TylerR? On this part even one wall might help, I'm thinking. But one thing is for sure, even with 2 walls, mine has never fallen over, requiring a decent bump with the Chisel, as I already described, to break it loose. NO RAFT either.

https://i.postimg.cc/4NF7jGRW/IMG-3949.jpg

There!, TylerR......now can you see some imperfections with this close up? ;)I pretty much print everything at 4 walls anyway. I've had Good luck with printing on the glass covered with painters tape. Maybe I'll give that a go next.

Anyone have experience with the pp bed and petg? The only petg I've had Good luck with was a carbon fiber petg, that actually printed REALLY well, but it's 50 ish bucks for a half kilo... A bit expensive. Everything else I used I had corners lift just about on everything

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[Dsltech1]

I switched to pp beds a few months ago. The bullet feed dies are what made me switch. Using glass and glue stick they’d fall over. Printed a successful set on the first try with the pp bed. Some of the single layers can be a pain to remove. Like brims and the prime line at the start of the print. Prime line tends to come of in tiny pieces rather than a nice long line. No complaints other than that. I wipe down with 99% alcohol between prints and that’s it. I’m glad I’m through with the glue stick. But now I need to find something to do with the 50 remaining glue sticks [smilie=b:

I print everything in petg. I use green gate. They’re a little higher than overture and all of the other imported petg at $30 1kg roll but it prints great. Sometimes they have some marked down with minor deficiencies like color for $20. It took several prints of overture to get settings right. I think I made two prints with green gate and haven’t touched settings much since then. On large prints with high infill I have minor corner lifts unless I use a brim. Lately I’ve been using gyroid and rarely need to go over 20%.

I think I read somewhere that petg won’t stick to a build plate that pla has been on unless it’s been completely cleaned. Something about the sugar from pla or something like that.

[GWS]

I print everything in petg. I use green gate. They’re a little higher than overture and all of the other imported petg at $30 1kg roll but it prints great. Sometimes they have some marked down with minor deficiencies like color for $20. It took several prints of overture to get settings right. I think I made two prints with green gate and haven’t touched settings much since then. On large prints with high infill I have minor corner lifts unless I use a brim. Lately I’ve been using gyroid and rarely need to go over 20%.

I think I read somewhere that petg won’t stick to a build plate that pla has been on unless it’s been completely cleaned. Something about the sugar from pla or something like that.

Interesting....I've never tried anything but PLA and PLA composite (the satins), so I'm curious.....what's the story for Petg?

[Dsltech1]

Interesting....I've never tried anything but PLA and PLA composite (the satins), so I'm curious.....what's the story for Petg?

It’s pet with glycol added. Pet is the plastic most water bottles are made out of. It’s claim to fame is it’s supposed to print as easy as pla but have the strength of abs. It’s definitely more for functional prints. It can’t compete with pla as far as aesthetics. Light stringing is the nature of the beast. Most of the time a quick rub will knock it off but a lighter is required occasionally to burn of stubborn bits. Has a higher temp resistance too. I believe it’s in the neighborhood of 170 Fahrenheit but I’m not positive. Strength and temp resistance is what drew me to it.
It prints at a higher temp than pla so some printers aren’t up to the task with stock parts. Overture and esun I was printing 250 first layer and then 240-245 for the rest of the print. Current Petg is 235 and 225. I have a couple cr-10s’. They’re supposed to be able to handle it with the stock hot end. But I read the creality all metal hot end was still lined with ptfe. So I’ve upgraded both with direct drive micro Swiss extruder and hot end.

[nhyrum]

Finally got two of the three parts printed on the pei bed. The die body, once I had it print by itself, printed fine, the drop tube took some slowing down, because for some reason, even though I have the print speed set to 20 mm/s, the infill was printing way faster. But I got my sanded pp bed on and the die insert printing.

Yeah, petg is what soda bottles are made from. It's not as strong, tensile strength wise, as pla, but is tougher, supposedly. I've had stinging and corner warping issues with it, but that was 3 years ago. Cnc kitchen on YouTube has a bunch of great comparison videos, doing tensile strength tests with and against the layers and impact testing. I don't know if he does brand testing, which would be kind of interesting to see. Mostly it's testing print temperatures. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211102/085acf10c3be94b4fc4192e7b16d43b8.jpg

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[GWS]

I made a black Kleenex box out of PLA with a lift off lid. It was gorgeous!......until it warped in the hot car! ;) Talk about a fail! Maybe PETG would work....may have to try that......got a good brand suggestion for PETG black?


Dsltech: Thanks for the enfo.....I appreciate it.

nhyrum: Those parts look great! Good luck on the tall skinny one!

[nhyrum]

I've had decent luck with atomic filament for petg, and I believe chep on YouTube recommends it as well.

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[nhyrum]

The frigging thing fell over again. I've used up just about a whole damn roll trying to get these damn dies to print. I sanded the pp plate with a 180 grit lapping film and cleaned it with alcohol. There are literally only two lines contacting the build plate for the 308 insert. Sliced, I had it at 20mm/s speed for everything and turned the acceleration jerk WAY the hell down (500mm/s^2 to 100) for everything, yet the damned infill is definitely NOT printing at that speed. I'm reminded why I stopped printing this and contemplating buying from the devil to get the daa feed dies. I will try once more, turning the acceleration down by half again, turning the infill down to 5mm/s and use sports for everything over 45°, which will surround the whole thing. I'm also going to flip it over, 180 so it prints the larger, heavier end closer to the end so it's not a huge ass pendulum since my stupid machine doesn't know how to obey the slicer settings...

I don't know what else to do at this point...

Nozzle is 218 and bed is 70. The brim it printed was a bitch to peel off...

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[GWS]

What I don't understand is something must touch the model to knock it over. Got to be calibration of the Ender. What layer height is it set at, and is it really printing at that setting?

Start back at the beginning. Answer the following questions, and verify the answers to yourself:(You've probably answered most of this but I'd have to go back through all your posts to remember....that's me now-a-days)

Media: What are you using? I hope PLA or I have no experience to even offer suggestions. What brand?

Bed leveling. and Z bar leveling: Are they level? Z bar especially could be critical for these skinny tubes?

If you're using the PLA, I've used 70C with lifting....too high for my bed, 65C seems to be perfect for my CR10v2 and PP.

115C seems to be perfect for both the Zyltech Satin and the Overture that I used.....sticks fine but not too hard to remove.

I use infill of 20% on my dies, but have used 17% on other parts with more base. I use 2 walls not 4....I will try 3 next time to see if the hole between inner and outer walls fills in, but not 4. The tube in my mind is too skinny for 4. Have no idea how the printer deals with 4 when there is no room for 4. It might skip walls....see last paragraph...

Layer height? I use 12mm and baby step down just a tad to make the PLA squish on first layer just a little. Too much squeeze and I have scraped the layer under....and caused all sorts of hell. Mine 1st layer looks just a little flat on top...not all the way flat.

Is your bench/table solid? Maybe vibration in that could cause bed release and falling. In my minds eye too hot a bed may not let the first layers totally harden? Just grasping at straws here.....

What about your heating/cooling system in your room? Could it be blowing on your model? Or what about fans set too high on your nozzle setup?

Last (maybe the most important) question: You keep talking about "literally two lines touching the bed". That's why I posted a close-up of mine. On that you can see two inside and two outside with a space between using 2 layers. I've heard that when a printer gets a command it can't follow, it skips it. I've had that happen to me when I was trying to print an inclined hole in the center of one of my special thin proximity tubes, and the thing just refused to print where it didn't think it could. Maybe 2 walls is the limit!.....maybe not even 3 would work, and you are trying to get 4 walls and the part is too thin for that, I don't know........that'd be the first thing to try, if it was me.

[nhyrum]

i think whats doing it is when the bed jerks back and forth, the inertia is making it loosen over time.

Im using sunlu silk pla, ive never had issues with the print head hitting things, and with leveling the bed to z axis during the bed leveling process, im not sure what you mean by z bar leveling. I level the bed before every print with a sheet of paper, or at least verify its still level.

ive tried 65, but 70 just seemed to work better.

20 % infill

1.2mm layer height, and my first layer squish is set during leveling, and i also always verify that the first layer is adhering by running my fingernail across it as it goes. usually just the skirt though, i try not to touch the actual part.

the printer is sitting on an old oaken dresser. its not wobbly and pretty stout.

even though in cura its set to have part cooling at 100%, the cooling fan doesnt come on(i didnt have any issues with it on other prints) but if i do into the settings while its going, i can manually turn it on. the dresser the machine is on is in a bit of a cubby hole, so i dont BELIEVE any air is getting blown directly on it

yes, there are only two lines of the 308 insert that are the bottom layer for the 308 insert. Ive included a snapshot of cura showing it.


291154

[TylerR]

i think whats doing it is when the bed jerks back and forth, the inertia is making it loosen over time.

Im using sunlu silk pla, ive never had issues with the print head hitting things, and with leveling the bed to z axis during the bed leveling process, im not sure what you mean by z bar leveling. I level the bed before every print with a sheet of paper, or at least verify its still level.

ive tried 65, but 70 just seemed to work better.

20 % infill

1.2mm layer height, and my first layer squish is set during leveling, and i also always verify that the first layer is adhering by running my fingernail across it as it goes. usually just the skirt though, i try not to touch the actual part.

the printer is sitting on an old oaken dresser. its not wobbly and pretty stout.

even though in cura its set to have part cooling at 100%, the cooling fan doesnt come on(i didnt have any issues with it on other prints) but if i do into the settings while its going, i can manually turn it on. the dresser the machine is on is in a bit of a cubby hole, so i dont BELIEVE any air is getting blown directly on it

yes, there are only two lines of the 308 insert that are the bottom layer for the 308 insert. Ive included a snapshot of cura showing it.


I have no experience with petg, but I do not have issues with pla+. If you have tried with a brim and it is still getting knocked off, then I would guess at some point the printer is making contact, or like you said, the rapid movement of the bed is causing it. Slowing down the bed travel speed would be the only resolve I can think of there. I am running mine on Ender 5's so no x/y bed movement is involved.

Based on everything you have said, I think using a good brim and slowing down bed travel is the answer. And maybe using pla instead of petg.

[nhyrum]

I have no experience with petg, but I do not have issues with pla+. If you have tried with a brim and it is still getting knocked off, then I would guess at some point the printer is making contact, or like you said, the rapid movement of the bed is causing it. Slowing down the bed travel speed would be the only resolve I can think of there. I am running mine on Ender 5's so no x/y bed movement is involved.

Based on everything you have said, I think using a good brim and slowing down bed travel is the answer. And maybe using pla instead of petg.I was printing these with silk pla, and this was with a brim.

I just got the tube finished, printed upside down, and it actually looks pretty good on 95%. There was an odd issue about 3/8 inch up, as printed, at the top of the large taper it looked like a good amount of the support stuck to the part, so it took some cleaning, and the holes for the bearings had a bit of a flat spot. At least it made it through the whole print. Oddly, I thought the spring hooks would have caused the biggest problem, but they actually look great. I'm now debating if I want to try printing a 9mm die set... If I do, I'll probably get something like wolfbite or magigloop, print it right side up with support. I think that was the last part I needed for the feeder

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[GWS]

That's just weird....my red 9mm (closeup pictures above) insert hole is bigger than .308......so how come you don't have more thickness in the walls of the tube???? and it has 2 inside and 2 more outside walls. Maybe you could send TylerR the .stl you are using? Maybe something's up with that particular file....I've never printed the .308 one, but I have a .45, .38, 9mm, and .40 that printed and stuck down just fine.

Wondering about the outside diameter of the .308 tube? Is it smaller than all the others?

I just sliced the .308 tube on my slicer and took a snap shot of it upside down:

https://i.postimg.cc/kX8GhG39/308.png

Below definitely different design, the .9mm version:

https://i.postimg.cc/dQCJJfWj/9mm.png

Maybe TylerR can decipher it....I can't.;)

[TylerR]

That's just weird....my red 9mm (closeup pictures above) insert hole is bigger than .308......so how come you don't have more thickness in the walls of the tube???? and it has 2 inside and 2 more outside walls. Maybe you could send TylerR the .stl you are using? Maybe something's up with that particular file....I've never printed the .308 one, but I have a .45, .38, 9mm, and .40 that printed and stuck down just fine.

Wondering about the outside diameter of the .308 tube? Is it smaller than all the others?

I just posted a new version of the .308 insert with slightly less beveled radius on the end. This should give more surface area on the printer.

[M500]

I just posted a new version of the .308 insert with slightly less beveled radius on the end. This should give more surface area on the printer.


I see that's not all you just posted. Care to comment on the 300mm?

[GWS]

Looks like he's been busy making more to stick with...for more than just the .308. Looks good.....where else do you get this quick of a reaction to improve a product...free or otherwise? I sliced the .308 again and just went down to layer one.....and this is what I found.....

https://i.postimg.cc/BbWbqLdq/308-mod.png

bet it works better for everybody. Noticed 9mm is changed too....I think he's right, the bevel probably doesn't have to be that big....it just has to catch and center the case going in. Thanks TylerR....

[TylerR]

I see that's not all you just posted. Care to comment on the 300mm?

shhhhhhh.......you weren't supposed to see that :)

mktacop requested something to fit on his 300mm bed printer, so I whipped it up. Now we have a 230, 300 and 350mm size. lol
I will put a disclaimer in to say I have not printed it out or tested it myself, but I believe it is solid. I was going to wait till it was vetted before I announced it but looks like the cat is out of the bag.

[mktacop]

Since the cat is out of the bag…..

The “mid-sized” main body is underway. Simplify says the print will be 58 hours, so it will be a couple of days until it’s done and I can show anything.


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[M500]

Sorry TylerR. Didn't mean to ruin the surprise. Had I known you were going to design this, I probably would have bought a smaller printer.

[TylerR]

Sorry TylerR. Didn't mean to ruin the surprise. Had I known you were going to design this, I probably would have bought a smaller printer.

No worries, just understand it is untested at this point. I don't plan this stuff out, it just happens. Blame mktacop.

[AR-Bossman]

Wow, this thing just keeps going and going. Cool stuff guys.

[GWS]

Hi Bossman! Good to "hear" your voice.;) This party is a record, I think. I am amazed that CastBoolits has allowed it.

TylerR! So what's going to be the "official" name of this "Just Right" collator.....and what's the Diameter, vs. the other two? Looks like you are going to busy for a while making parts for it.......If it wasn't for M500 I wouldn't have even noticed! Sneaky Pete ought to be your nickname.

[TylerR]

Hi Bossman! Good to "hear" your voice.;) This party is a record, I think. I am amazed that CastBoolits has allowed it.

TylerR! So what's going to be the "official" name of this "Just Right" collator.....and what's the Diameter, vs. the other two? Looks like you are going to busy for a while making parts for it.......If it wasn't for M500 I wouldn't have even noticed! Sneaky Pete ought to be your nickname.

I think you just named it. Standard, Mongo, and Just Right. :)

It is designed to fit on a 300mm bed. I don't plan to really make any special parts for it. I generated the two pistol brass plates for mktacop, and will probably do the rifle brass ones. That's about it. It takes the same ramp as Mongo if anyone is wondering.

[GWS]

I think you just named it. Standard, Mongo, and Just Right. :)

It is designed to fit on a 300mm bed. I don't plan to really make any special parts for it. I generated the two pistol brass plates for mktacop, and will probably do the rifle brass ones. That's about it. It takes the same ramp as Mongo if anyone is wondering.

Then most likely, the sliders are the same too.....KOOL! "Just Right" depends on your view point: For my CR10v2, that describes it to a tee if you want a case collator. For the Ender 3 folks, not so much. For the Ender 5+ folks the Mongo is just right for a case collator. But whatever....I'll have to print this one.....the temptation is too great, Beelzebub.;)

[mktacop]

Here is a little teaser….

21 hours in, 37% complete

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211103/83625545ecbb919a7939b4a7a4b6a2a0.jpg


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[GWS]

Looks great! Except for the baby blue......that would clash with my green eyes.....and equipment! :) What printer is that?

[mktacop]

Looks great! Except for the baby blue......that would clash with my green eyes.....and equipment! :) What printer is that?

Well ya know, I drank the blue kool-aid, so it has to match. LOL

The printer is a D-Bot built from plans on Thingiverse. It has a 300x300x425mm print capacity. I printed all the parts on a Robo R1 and built it about 4 years ago.

[nhyrum]

Well... I think I jumped the gun a little on blaming the contact patch for the failure of the drop tube. Today I just noticed that the zip ties I had holding my hot end writing tight and out of the way had come loose and basically went straight back from the hot end instead of following the Bowden tube. I don't see how it could have come in contact with just the drop tube, but I secured it better and I'll give the tube another try.

Anyway, I apologize for flying off the handle bars, my temper can be a bit like a good trigger. It goes 0 to 100 pretty quick [emoji23][emoji17]

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[TylerR]

Well... I think I jumped the gun a little on blaming the contact patch for the failure of the drop tube. Today I just noticed that the zip ties I had holding my hot end writing tight and out of the way had come loose and basically went straight back from the hot end instead of following the Bowden tube. I don't see how it could have come in contact with just the drop tube, but I secured it better and I'll give the tube another try.

Anyway, I apologize for flying off the handle bars, my temper can be a bit like a good trigger. It goes 0 to 100 pretty quick [emoji23][emoji17]

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Good news. I assume with that fix and the updated design success is on the horizon.

[silahtar]

Hi Tyler, just wanted to bring up a suggestion. To help manage parts with long print hours, did you ever consider designing the body in a modular way, i.e. bottom and sidewalls screwed together rather than printed at once?

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler, just wanted to bring up a suggestion. To help manage parts with long print hours, did you ever consider designing the body in a modular way, i.e. bottom and sidewalls screwed together rather than printed at once?

There are too many variables now as it is. Currently there are 10 "Main Body" designs. Splitting all of them in to multiple parts would just confuse people more. Especially with the extra assembly required.

[nhyrum]

I'd rather print one part that takes forever than 3 parts that take forever... I tried printing a brass collator that was in three pieces, and fitment was awful, but that was mostly due to it being petg and I don't think any of the parts were flat. Just about everything warped. But still, 1 part will fit better than 3 parts

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[GWS]

Well, TylerR, I've sliced the Mongo wannabe too.....but at layer height of .2 not .12 but with 4 walls and 4 top solid layers.....time is supposed to be only 47h20m. Think that'll work? 59 hours is a loooong time for me, and I'm not sure I need .12mm layers on a collator main.....what do you think?

[TylerR]

Well, TylerR, I've sliced the Mongo wannabe too.....but at layer height of .2 not .12 but with 4 walls and 4 top solid layers.....time is supposed to be only 47h20m. Think that'll work? 59 hours is a loooong time for me, and I'm not sure I need .12mm layers on a collator main.....what do you think?

Oh definitely .2mm. That is actually what the manual suggests.

Part Layer Height Infill Supports Walls Adhesion
Main Body 0.2mm 30% None 4 None

[nhyrum]

That might even be a good place to put a larger nozzle, like .8 and go with even larger layers

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[GWS]

Oh definitely .2mm. That is actually what the manual suggests.

Part Layer Height Infill Supports Walls Adhesion
Main Body 0.2mm 30% None 4 None

That's pretty much what I'm going to do, but I've done my others at 18% infill and it's plenty strong. 30 would slow it down quite a bit.....so we are going to see if I'm sorry. ;) The only place I've increased from the others is the top layers.....just want the flat under plate surface a little smoother....for looks. We will see how that works out. Hoping this is the last one, at least for me.

The only thing I kinda wanted to add was extra holes for my case soldier knocker....but I can drill the holes just fine.


That might even be a good place to put a larger nozzle, like .8 and go with even larger layers

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Might be, but my laziness says I'd buy a printer and do that.....not change settings on my production machine. ;)

[TylerR]

That's pretty much what I'm going to do, but I've done my others at 18% infill and it's plenty strong. 30 would slow it down quite a bit.....so we are going to see if I'm sorry. ;) The only place I've increased from the others is the top layers.....just want the flat under plate surface a little smoother....for looks. We will see how that works out. Hoping this is the last one, at least for me.

The only thing I kinda wanted to add was extra holes for my case soldier knocker....but I can drill the holes just fine.

I could add those if you want. just need to know where. let me know.

[mktacop]

Here is the standard sized main body sitting inside the “Just Right” main body.

Print took 58:41 for me.

Swapping parts over and setting up to print the collator plate now.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211105/672ea359ded25a6a69341ded69fa7d3a.jpg


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[GWS]

Wow! and that's Tyler's normal sized model not Ammo Mikes little thing either........now I've got to go back and rethink this.....as in do I have room?

And TylerR I will see if I can figure out how to tell you where to place the holes.....I mean I can't just measure of the normal sized one. Holes in the wrong place would be worse than no holes.....let me have a look......and I may have to redesign the knocker too.....different diameter curve.

[mktacop]

I’m going to have to do something different now as well. The Just Right body doesn’t line up with the Dillon tube like the Standard one did, but that was expected. I’ll just have to print some more parts to get everything feeding cases.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211105/92041c0ee6b69ea52ddf16a360db1be7.jpg


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[GWS]

And why was it that you needed a bigger one? Loading .50 Caliber? Just kidding....;) My Hornady pistol bullet feeder is about that size.... Geeze, that big motor is dwarfed....:)

The silver lining is.......I have a new winter mental project to hold off Alzheimers one more year.....don't think I can resist this.......it was easy to resist Mongo.....I don't have room for another bigger printer.....in my house or in my brain.

[mktacop]

I just wanted to be able to load more cases and not have to refill it so often. You know….laziness ;-)


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[GWS]

I could add those if you want. just need to know where. let me know.

My memory just was foggy....I actually used the upper right two holes you already supplied stock in the collator. But I will need to redesign anyway being that the inside radius is different and it needs to be taller. So, I'll use the 2 upper holes again in the new size.........but first things first.....need to print the collator first.

mktacop's looks great! I've got some support work to figure out as he does. You could save me a bit of time by supplying me with the inside radius of the new inside wall, and the horizontal hole to hole distance center to center. Any suggestion to make the case deflector design sexier? ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/vDFt69cw/4_hole_case_deflecter.jpg

[TylerR]

My memory just was foggy....I actually used the upper right two holes you already supplied stock in the collator. But I will need to redesign anyway being that the inside radius is different and it needs to be taller. So, I'll use the 2 upper holes again in the new size.........but first things first.....need to print the collator first.

mktacop's looks great! I've got some support work to figure out as he does. You could save me a bit of time by supplying me with the inside radius of the new inside wall, and the horizontal hole to hole distance center to center. Any suggestion to make the case deflector design sexier? ;)


I do have one idea. Why not convert the holes to a long slot so you can just loosen and adjust the height? If it was me I would also figure out some kind of thumb screw so changing the height would be as simple as possible.

The inside diameter is 250mm.

[GWS]

I do have one idea. Why not convert the holes to a long slot so you can just loosen and adjust the height? If it was me I would also figure out some kind of thumb screw so changing the height would be as simple as possible.

The inside diameter is 250mm.

Sound and reasonable......now, are the two holes the same distance apart as the original size collator...... I think I'll round some edges to make it look more finished...

Collator is printing away......this one is black Overture Plus.....I'm glad I ordered another roll.

I need this measurement in mm. center to center to finish the case deflector....will share the .STL.

https://i.postimg.cc/YCT4GGWm/Screenshot-2021-11-05-170713.png

Also need the distance from the inside base to the top of the wall.

[TylerR]

Sound and reasonable......now, are the two holes the same distance apart as the original size collator...... I think I'll round some edges to make it look more finished...

Collator is printing away......this one is black Overture Plus.....I'm glad I ordered another roll.

Yes. They are holes for the mounting bracket and have not changed.

[GWS]

OK you can mostly ignore the last post.....how tall is the inside?

[TylerR]

OK you can mostly ignore the last post.....how tall is the inside?

Distance between holes = 30mm
Height of wall = 130mm

[TylerR]

I’m going to have to do something different now as well. The Just Right body doesn’t line up with the Dillon tube like the Standard one did, but that was expected. I’ll just have to print some more parts to get everything feeding cases.



Looks great! Patiently waiting for some video of that baby running.....

[mktacop]

Looks great! Patiently waiting for some video of that baby running.....

Well, it will be a few days. We are out of town for
The weekend.


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[GWS]

Emails sent.

You know we print this stuff for fun not saving money right? :)
It's like the old saying, "honey I took up reloading to save us some money.......". They all know we are full of it.

I save a lot of money, don't you? I don't drink, smoke, carouse....I don't own a boat, motorhome or motorcycle either. And I don't pay for a timeshare....I don't go on cruises or to Cancun Mexico either. There! Point made! :) Also My wife has me beat for money spending.....you know what it costs for her clothes, shoes, quilting and sewing machines? My hobbies are cheap.....and I like a happy wife.....my best investment of all.

[TylerR]

I save a lot of money, don't you? I don't drink, smoke, carouse....I don't own a boat, motorhome or motorcycle either. And I don't pay for a timeshare....I don't go on cruises or to Cancun Mexico either. There! Point made! :) Also My wife has me beat for money spending.....you know what it costs for her clothes, shoes, quilting and sewing machines? My hobbies are cheap.....and I like a happy wife.....my best investment of all.

Haha that's awesome GWS. So you save money on reloading by not spending money on anything else? That sounds very familiar.......

[GWS]

I can't test it until the base is finished (at 70% ... so sometime tomorrow), but here's what the larger case deflector (to knock over soldiers) for the new bigger collator will look like.:

https://i.postimg.cc/SKc6ppnz/case-deflector-large.png It will hang on the base wall on the right using the existing two holes near the top. TylerR suggested the slots and using a bolt and thumb screw nuts to tighten at any height necessary for a particular caliber brass.

I usually buy such things at Ace Hardware...

Little vid of the one on my smaller case feeder below: (also demonstrates why TylerR's clutch is so nice.


https://youtu.be/-hDs9eLVxzw

Update: It's done! Big sucker.....the best base print for me yet.....perfect no flaw anywhere! Impatiently waiting for a motor to come in.....sigh.....

https://i.postimg.cc/G3WQKSY4/IMG-3951.jpg

[45acp]

Hi.
Thinking about printing this bullet feeder but i have one question....
Will this function with PC´d .45 185gr HPSWC? I haven´t seen any posts about it so i guess it will not,, correct?
Tia

[nhyrum]

Hi.
Thinking about printing this bullet feeder but i have one question....
Will this function with PC´d .45 185gr HPSWC? I haven´t seen any posts about it so i guess it will not,, correct?
TiaI don't see any reason why it couldn't, or couldn't be tweaked to make them feed. The only thing I've seen hanging then 6 up are lubed bullets

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[mktacop]

Progress continues on the Just Right sized feeder, case feeder for me.

Not wanting to cut the clear acrylic tube that came with my 750, I found some tube the same size on Amazon that I could cut to whatever length was needed. Using Tinkercad, I shortened the Drop_Tube_X, and modified the base to fit on the acrylic tube.

I cut the new tube to length so that the modified drop tube sits on top and is held in place by the tube bracket that came with the 750.

Using the correct spring adaptors (G and H) and a section of the DAA spring tube, the cases can make it from the feeder to the clear tube, and the optical sensor sits at the top of the clear tube.

The large pistol brass collator plate is printing and will be done in about 7 hours. Once it is complete, I’ll be able to do some testing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211108/90e14fb353bd3e98ccfcf9aa35c41e35.jpg


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[GWS]

Looks great! My PLA Pro black is not a glossy like yours, but it was all I had available. RCBS Green would have worked but I haven't found it. Redleg Ed found some PLA that reminds me of the earliest RCBS crinkle finish color, but I don't have anything that old....my first RCBS RC was given away to a nephew.

I'm going to use mine only for Rifle cases, .308, .223, .270, and maybe even 30-30 for my 1900 era Winchester, that was handed down. So I've got to get busy figuring out how to make them on the plate maker software. I never printed a base that came out totally flawless, but this one did.:) Maybe I've finally figured out this CR10-2

https://i.postimg.cc/ZndLZrkY/IMG-3949.jpg

[mktacop]

GWS, looks great!

[TylerR]

They both look awesome. Nice work gentlemen.

[texasknight78]

Can someone direct me to where the files for the feeder are? I’m probably overlooking them.

[mktacop]

Check TylerRs signature line.

Couldn't have done it without your work TylerR! Thank you!

[GWS]

Can someone direct me to where the files for the feeder are? I’m probably overlooking them.

mktacop told you where they are, but be more specific which feeder/collator you want. Feeding bullets or small cases the original size is perfect. Feeding large cases the bigger ones are awesome! And it also depends what your printer is. If your print bed is Ender 3 size...the original size is your choice, if you have a 300x300mm bed you can print the bigger one. If you have a 350x350mm or bigger bed then you can even print the "Mongo" big guy. The one I just printed is the 300x300 version. I have 2 originals, one set up for bullets, one for cases.... and one 300, for which I will collate larger bottleneck cases.

In the download there is a "Manual" that will help choosing parts you need. More questions? Many here to help.

[texasknight78]

Thank yall for the directions! This has to be the most thought out project ive seen in a long time. very informative thanks again guys

[TylerR]

Hi.
Thinking about printing this bullet feeder but i have one question....
Will this function with PC´d .45 185gr HPSWC? I haven´t seen any posts about it so i guess it will not,, correct?
Tia

SWC's can be a bit challenging since the nose diameter is not much smaller then the base. That said, it can definitely handle them. Just have to get the plate ridge distance dialed in.

[mktacop]

Here is the "Just Right" main body feeding 45ACP cases.


https://youtu.be/-K_-3rZEA78

[TylerR]

Here is the "Just Right" main body feeding 45ACP cases.


Asked for and you delivered. Excellent work my friend.

[mktacop]

Asked for and you delivered. Excellent work my friend.

Thanks sir! Couldn’t have done it without you.


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[GWS]

Was out of town for the last two days, but I got a little more printed.......no motor ordered yet....expensive dang things.....and I'm cheap....so it's painful not to be able to find one at a decent price.:( Think I'm going to order a "will call" from Grainger to save the shipping at least. That Dayton is over-priced. Should have waited for another print file using the motor TylerR suggested. Too bad he didn't think to print the first one for that motor. ;) I'll live......still happy with the new size! Thanks TylerR!!!

Below: My 308 plate for the normal sized collator was green and the .223 one was red. So for this big one I printed green to use the green clutch.
https://i.postimg.cc/dtYPFx8C/IMG-3952.jpg

Below: The part to to keep soldiers knocked over printed right.....the adjustment slots lined up with the top holes on the collator perfectly!....always pleased with first print successes.
https://i.postimg.cc/tCN04N5M/IMG-3950.jpg

[mktacop]

Very nice! Looking forward to seeing it in action!

[TylerR]

Was out of town for the last two days, but I got a little more printed.......no motor ordered yet....expensive dang things.....and I'm cheap....so it's painful not to be able to find one at a decent price.:( Think I'm going to order a "will call" from Grainger to save the shipping at least. That Dayton is over-priced. Should have waited for another print file using the motor TylerR suggested. Too bad he didn't think to print the first one for that motor. ;) I'll live......still happy with the new size! Thanks TylerR!!!

Below: My 308 plate for the normal sized collator was green and the .223 one was red. So for this big one I printed green to use the green clutch.

Below: The part to to keep soldiers knocked over printed right.....the adjustment slots lined up with the top holes on the collator perfectly!....always pleased with first print successes.


That knockem them over part looks great. Do you want to contribute it to the project?

[GWS]

That knockem them over part looks great. Do you want to contribute it to the project?

In your mailbox. Do with it what you want....it's yours now.

[texasknight78]

ok guys i read the manual and trying to use the parts generator but nothing is happing. I have ender 3 pro and dillion 650 press. its probably something supper easy that im over looking

[Sgt Beer Belly]

@texasknight78

Do you have Java installed on your computer ?? if so
the parts generator creates a zipped file called parts are you finding that folder and extracting it ??

[dverna]

I continue to be amazed. I have started questioning my decision to not get into 3D printing. Maybe after deer season I will see if I am still pumped up enough to do it.

Winters are long and cold in MI. 3D might be a good way to waste a bit of time and money and get some neat stuff made. Just a couple of questions about starting out. I figure the largest item I will ever make is the bullet collator and I would like to have something large enough to hold 400 .38 158 gr bullets. That is about 30 minutes of production for me on the 1050. What size collator would I need to print?

What machine would you guys suggest for a newbie? I do not enjoy tinkering so reliability and ease of use has value over price. And what filament(s) should I be using for things like the collator and bullet feed dies? Are there any suppliers of filament I should stay away from?

Lastly, is there a "3D Printing for Dummies' book you would recommend? I found this and wonder if there is something better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1118660757/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wiley01-20

[nhyrum]

I continue to be amazed. I have started questioning my decision to not get into 3D printing. Maybe after deer season I will see if I am still pumped up enough to do it.

Winters are long and cold in MI. 3D might be a good way to waste a bit of time and money and get some neat stuff made. Just a couple of questions about starting out. I figure the largest item I will ever make is the bullet collator and I would like to have something large enough to hold 400 .38 158 gr bullets. That is about 30 minutes of production for me on the 1050. What size collator would I need to print?

What machine would you guys suggest for a newbie? I do not enjoy tinkering so reliability and ease of use has value over price. And what filament(s) should I be using for things like the collator and bullet feed dies? Are there any suppliers of filament I should stay away from?

Lastly, is there a "3D Printing for Dummies' book you would recommend? I found this and wonder if there is something better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1118660757/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wiley01-20Normally, I'd recommend really anything by creality, like an ender 3 or the like. They tend to work ok, but, at least the older ones like mine, took a little fiddling to get going well. Nothing crazy. But in this case I'd recommend the prusa i3. It's kind of the machine the ender 3 is a Chinese knockoff of, and I like that they're open source. Should be plenty big enough for what you need. As for filament, I actually like the Amazon basics pla +. There's a ton of pla filament that is great now, I'm sure there will be plenty of recommendations. 3d printing nerd on YouTube does a good amount of machine reviews, and I feel he's pretty unbiased. CNC kitchen does a good amount of materials testing, testing strength and how things like nozzle temperature or filament martial(I don't think he really does brand testing).

Regardless of brand of the machine, you will have to do a little testing to see what temperature, and other settings your particular machine and filament like, it's kind of like load development.

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[GWS]

I for one am grateful for the "Chinese knockoffs". Normal people can easily get into the 3D hobby and the machines are perfectly adaquate. If only the European models were available I still wouldn't have one. Most of us could care less whether we can print toys in 5 colors.

There is some work involved during the learning curve and you'll have good days and bad days.....if that is a turn off then maybe you don't want to go down the rabbit hole.

What have I had to change to make prints I'm happy with? 1. Automatic bed leveling (I hated having to level the bed by hand. I use the one with no moving parts to break.) 2. I hated Creality's treated glass bed....had prints curl and lift in the corners too often. (TylerR told me to try Polypropylene clamped on top.....I did NOT want to fiddle with hairspray, gluesticks, and thin PEI layers. P.P. is near trouble free with an alcohol wipe after every print, if you sand the top once when you buy it using 220 sandpaper. 3. Get a slicer you can understand, and learn how to use it. Most of my failed prints were due to the slicer settings not the printer....MY Fault. (learning curve)

I only have experience with my Creality CR-10 Version 2. I bought it because I felt the Ender 3's smaller bed too limiting. I'm glad I did. The bigger collator I just printed, would not have been possible on an Ender 3. It has a 300x300mm bed. It's been great fun since I "tinkered" with it the first month automating the manual bed leveling and adding the P.P. bed.

I use mainly Overture and Zyltec PLA and PLA+

This was my first print (a single color toy) the second week ...... for my Grandson.

https://i.postimg.cc/V6RwPWrY/IMG_3505.jpg

[dverna]

GWS,nhyrun,
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experience.

[GWS]

Below: the one I purchased for $500......now cheaper....and just now on sale even cheaper....$380! 300x300mm bed.

https://creality3d.shop/collections/cr-series/products/creality3d-cr-10-v2-3d-printer

Below: the totally trouble-free auto bed leveler I bought from TH3D. Great directions great support and it works.....no moving plunger that can break.....believe me, you can give a command that can break those with plungers. I did not buy any of the accessory parts...using original springs, except that I bought the leveler mount....did not want to print one.

https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezabl-pro-plug-print-auto-bed-leveling-kit/

Finally below: the polypropylene bed see my post 5121...grey-green bed with spring clamps.....Just buy the right size, buy 4 spring clamps, turn your creality bed upside-down (smooth side up), and clamp them on.......then re-level the bed....done.

https://www.amazon.com/3103103mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JC9LQTY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mamorubot&qid=1635802575&sr=8-1\

For a slicer I found IdeaMaker was the easiest slicer for me to learn..... If you buy Prusa Slicer or Cura, then don't ask me for help....I wouldn't have a clue. TylerR is a Cura fan....don't know any Prusa Fans...least I don't know they are fans.

[TylerR]

Don,

Looks like you have received a lot of great advice here. The only thing I would add is that I have been very happy with my Ender 5 Plus. It has a 350mm build surface and comes with BLTounch pre installed for auto leveling. The only thing I added was the polypropylene build plate. I do also run Octoprint which is very nice. I use Overture PLA pro almost exclusively for filament and it has worked out very well.

[TylerR]

ok guys i read the manual and trying to use the parts generator but nothing is happing. I have ender 3 pro and dillion 650 press. its probably something supper easy that im over looking

The parts generator is a bit out of sync with the actual files right now in some cases. There may be issues selecting APP parts, or bullet feed dies. My suggestion is to try running it with the basic components, such as the body, correct drop tube, mounts, collator plates, spring tube adapters, etc..... Just skip APP and Feed dies and see if it runs successfully. You always have the option to open the folders in the project and manually grab the files, which is what I do.

[GWS]

Don,

Looks like you have received a lot of great advice here. The only thing I would add is that I have been very happy with my Ender 5 Plus. It has a 350mm build surface and comes with BLTounch pre installed for auto leveling. The only thing I added was the polypropylene build plate. I do also run Octoprint which is very nice. I use Overture PLA pro almost exclusively for filament and it has worked out very well.

See? Here's the thing. None of us has experience with all the 3d printers. So how are we to know what's best for you vs. me....or TylerR or nhyrum or any one else? There is one other factor not mentioned, yet......size! Footprint! I mean where are you going to put it. When I bought mine, TylerR's Ender 5 Plus was not a product yet. I would have been tempted. But I would have had trouble making room. And, my CR-10 V2, was $500 then! The Ender 5 Plus is not much different than that now, though had it been out then it would have been way more money than it is now.

Then there is Octoprint....and a connected camera for it, so you can watch and even turn it off from work away from home. All wonderful.....if you are smart enough and flush enough to add that. Me? Maybe someday.....if I don't keep getting dumber....what old people are pone to. When I bought my printer, Octoprint was confusion I didn't need...already I had enough to figure out. Might have tipped me over the sanity edge...;)

So TylerR bought his bigger machine (adding to his Ender 3) and with the big bed he created Mongo the biggest collator.......we are grateful he went back and created the 300 size after that.....still, only those with 300 beds can print it, and fewer still the Mongo. You can print anything smaller than your bed size, but bigger models just are not feasible.

Nobody addressed your book..... I have to say that I learned by YouTube Videos not books. In this tech hobby, keeping a book up to date would be impossible. You'd have to buy one every 6 months at least. I mean look at Tyler's manual.....it has to be updated every month. There are a million YouTube videos.....buy a printer, THEN look for videos on that model or the model just older. For example I got the version 2 of the CR-10. There were lots of videos on the CR-10 and most of it was useful. Tyler's new one won't have as much help.....but the older Ender 5 stuff (not the bigger bed Plus version) will have more.....and much will apply.

One more thought. If you want this new hobby....just buy one. Get started....then worry about learning it.....you will then be committed to success....not wondering about it. I will guarantee two things.....a few days of frustration.....MANY Months of amazing fun. We can help with the frustration... get the P.P. bed for sure.....will prevent a lot of the frustration....

Hey, my "Z" arm started heading for the bed once and I couldn't stop it. Then when it hit the bed and tried to punch through it, I turned the power switch off......a bad learning curve day! :) We all have them .... It left a tiny divot in my P.P. top which was filled....or I could have turned it over.......but I learned you don't get impatient and set the "Z" to travel more than a inch or two at a time. I was glad I didn't have Tyler's BL touch (would have broke it)......but......buying a newer printer with a leveler built-in is a really good thing and one less thing to worry about.

When you break down and buy one, we will tell you how to "babystep" an important function to know how to use.

[texasknight78]

ok i have the ender 3 pro so am trying to print the ETZGMP38 one. But using Cura it will not slice since it barley touches the greyed out area. No brim or anything like that, So my questions is, Is this the right one for me or do i need a different one?

[TylerR]

ok i have the ender 3 pro so am trying to print the ETZGMP38 one. But using Cura it will not slice since it barley touches the greyed out area. No brim or anything like that, So my questions is, Is this the right one for me or do i need a different one?

Standard size will fit an Ender 3. If there is gray area in the slicer it usually means some kind of build plate adhesion, brim or raft.

[texasknight78]

Thanks TylerR im up and running now. Im still having issues with the parts generator though. i downloaded Java and a zip file thing but once i select the file destination and hit start nothing happens. i'll get the "parts" file in the selected folder but once i go to open it says file not found. Anybody know where i'm messing up at?

[45acp]

SWC's can be a bit challenging since the nose diameter is not much smaller then the base. That said, it can definitely handle them. Just have to get the plate ridge distance dialed in.

Ok, i understand. When you say "dialed in" you mean printing another one? I have printed #7 but i´m thinking about #8 since sometimes the bullet doesn´t slide down to vertical position before the ramp. Correct?

[TylerR]

Thanks TylerR im up and running now. Im still having issues with the parts generator though. i downloaded Java and a zip file thing but once i select the file destination and hit start nothing happens. i'll get the "parts" file in the selected folder but once i go to open it says file not found. Anybody know where i'm messing up at?

What parts are you selecting?

[TylerR]

Ok, i understand. When you say "dialed in" you mean printing another one? I have printed #7 but i´m thinking about #8 since sometimes the bullet doesn´t slide down to vertical position before the ramp. Correct?

If you print one and the bullets are sliding off the ridge too easily, you can also use a set screw in the back of the plate to push it out just enough so it starts working correctly.

So print the #8 and test it. If you need something between the two sizes use a set screw in the #8.

[45acp]

If you print one and the bullets are sliding off the ridge too easily, you can also use a set screw in the back of the plate to push it out just enough so it starts working correctly.

So print the #8 and test it. If you need something between the two sizes use a set screw in the #8.

Thanks! Will try that.

[TylerR]

What parts are you selecting?

o416 just gave me a new parts generator that will skip over any errors it finds. Just uploaded to github. Give that a try.

[nhyrum]

o416 just gave me a new parts generator that will skip over any errors it finds. Just uploaded to github. Give that a try.This community here is awesome!

Now, I need a bit of help, but it's not quite related to the feeder, but a 3d printable ammo box I need modified, and I'm not as handy in solidworks as I once was...

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Standard size will fit an Ender 3. If there is gray area in the slicer it usually means some kind of build plate adhesion, brim or raft.

Could he have the model turned wrong??


This community here is awesome!

Now, I need a bit of help, but it's not quite related to the feeder, but a 3d printable ammo box I need modified, and I'm not as handy in solidworks as I once was...

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Don't see anything to modify....copy it into a zip file and attach it on your next post.

[nhyrum]

Don't see anything to modify....copy it into a zip file and attach it on your next post.

Heres the zip. I just need it stretched to accomodate a 10mm OAL. if the text that says the caliber is easy enough to change, id like it to be changed to "9x25" but I really just need it modified in height, and dont really care if it still says 40

[TylerR]

Heres the zip. I just need it stretched to accomodate a 10mm OAL. if the text that says the caliber is easy enough to change, id like it to be changed to "9x25" but I really just need it modified in height, and dont really care if it still says 40

Here you go.291783

[TylerR]

TylerR nor anyone else has ever taught me how to do recessed lettering on a model. I wouldn't have a clue. He does it in Design Spark?, but probably not on an .stl file. You don't have cad files available, I take it?

I went the extra mile and changed the text. Its pretty easy in DSM, and can be done once you convert the stl to a solid.

https://designspark.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/212654585-How-do-I-add-text-to-a-design-

[GWS]

As usual....child's play for the master .... always amazed......what steps did you use? or are you taking that knowledge to your grave!:)

That was quick.....Anticipated my question.....I will study that today....always wanted to know how.



And the stretch command?

[TylerR]

As usual....child's play for the master .... always amazed......what steps did you use? or are you taking that knowledge to your grave!:)

That was quick.....Anticipated my question.....I will study that today....always wanted to know how.

And the stretch command?

Just use the Pull tool. Selected the bottom layer of all the bullet slots and pulled them down 5mm. Did not even have to make the box taller because there was plenty of meat on the bottom already.

[GWS]

That's why you (could) get the big bucks....:)

[nhyrum]

I went the extra mile and changed the text. Its pretty easy in DSM, and can be done once you convert the stl to a solid.

https://designspark.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/212654585-How-do-I-add-text-to-a-design-Thank you, I very much appreciate it. I have some simple flip top ones that I was able to make taller. I guess it was a similar situation, but I just had to make the extrusion taller. With the more complex shape of that one, I didn't know how to do that, but I guess it was pretty simple. Man, it's been 10 years since I had my class in solidworks... [emoji15]

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[nhyrum]

I went the extra mile and changed the text. Its pretty easy in DSM, and can be done once you convert the stl to a solid.

https://designspark.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/212654585-How-do-I-add-text-to-a-design-So it should be pretty easy for me to go in with DSM and just edit the text? Or would I have to redo the whole "project to text" bit?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[nhyrum]

on a more related note, I got the feed springs in today. if all foes well, i might actually be able to fill these ammo boxes! depends of id rather try to remove a rusted in o2 sensor or work on the bullet feeder. i might just load a bit the old fashioned way

[TylerR]

So it should be pretty easy for me to go in with DSM and just edit the text? Or would I have to redo the whole "project to text" bit?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Unfortunately no, I wish it was that easy. you have to delete what is there and re-create.

[nhyrum]

ok, it looks easy enough to add the text. in that clip you shared earlier, he shows raised text, but I assume you just pull the text the other way for the recessed? how would I delete the text that's there(i got DSM)? I just cant figure that part out. (the text should say 9x25, instead of 9x19) the 9x25 is a bit of an obscure cartridge, its basically a 357 sig but based off the 10mm auto case instead of 40.

[TylerR]

ok, it looks easy enough to add the text. in that clip you shared earlier, he shows raised text, but I assume you just pull the text the other way for the recessed? how would I delete the text that's there(i got DSM)? I just cant figure that part out. (the text should say 9x25, instead of 9x19) the 9x25 is a bit of an obscure cartridge, its basically a 357 sig but based off the 10mm auto case instead of 40.

Oh dang, did I screw that up? I can make the change no problem if you want.
To do it in DSM, you just select the text with the select tool and hit delete on the keyboard. And yes, to recess it just pull in the other direction.

Re-done

291836

[nhyrum]

I'll give it a shot, it seems simple enough. All that really matters to me is that the rounds fit.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I'll give it a shot, it seems simple enough. All that really matters to me is that the rounds fit.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Re-done and posted above.

[nhyrum]

Re-done and posted above.Thanks a ton. My laptop is still working on deleting the text [emoji1787] it's supposed to be an i7 processor, but I bet what's the bottleneck is graphics processing.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[31QjVP]

I have a favor to ask - Can a APP Brass Insert be made for 44 mag? I've got about 600 pieces I need to deprime and it's my motivation for completing a second collator that is dedicated to the APP since the first collator is dedicated as bullet feeder on a Dillon.

[TylerR]

I have a favor to ask - Can a APP Brass Insert be made for 44 mag? I've got about 600 pieces I need to deprime and it's my motivation for completing a second collator that is dedicated to the APP since the first collator is dedicated as bullet feeder on a Dillon.

We have one of those.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/8.%20APP/APP_Brass_Insert_44.stl

[Blackflag]

291906


Hey Guys. I am trying to make a version of this collator to work with fishing weights. They are bullet shaped, but smaller about the size of a 22 bullet. I tried to customize the collator using the generator, but looks like it came out closer to a 9mm size vs the 6mm I'm looking for.

Do you think this part is too small to work with the collator? If not, can I override sizes in the generator to make the collator holes smaller?

[TylerR]

291906


Hey Guys. I am trying to make a version of this collator to work with fishing weights. They are bullet shaped, but smaller about the size of a 22 bullet. I tried to customize the collator using the generator, but looks like it came out closer to a 9mm size vs the 6mm I'm looking for.

Do you think this part is too small to work with the collator? If not, can I override sizes in the generator to make the collator holes smaller?

I just did some testing with the parts generator. It looks like there is a bug in the plate generator where it does not register changes in the number fields unless the up or down arrows are used. So you could type in 6 for caliber, then hit the up/down arrow and it will register the change. Using the preview button should help make sure it looks ok. I just open the file in OpenScad, so I have never actually worked with it in the gui.

I think the collator can most likely do what you are looking for, but it is probably going to take some trial and error and testing.

[Blackflag]

291908

This is the collator I printed using the settings above, with some of the parts sitting beside it to show the size Im working with.

[Blackflag]

Thanks man! Really appreciate the work you put into this project. I will try that now.

[TylerR]

Thanks man! Really appreciate the work you put into this project. I will try that now.

You bet! good luck.

[Blackflag]

Looks like the generator worked correctly when I used the up/down for caliber. Thanks for that tip.

I have a question about the mechanics of the collator. Is the idea to find the "flare" on the bullet and make the collator opening that size so it doesn't fall out? Or you just matching the diameter so it will fall out and hit the slide/ramp? And for smaller parts like mine, would the slide height have to be increased to make a better transition to the ramp? I will know more once this finished printing, I'm just getting excited building my first one.

291909

new collator plate using the previous 6mm settings.

291910

[TylerR]

Looks like the generator worked correctly when I used the up/down for caliber. Thanks for that tip.

I have a question about the mechanics of the collator. Is the idea to find the "flare" on the bullet and make the collator opening that size so it doesn't fall out? Or you just matching the diameter so it will fall out and hit the slide/ramp? And for smaller parts like mine, would the slide height have to be increased to make a better transition to the ramp? I will know more once this finished printing, I'm just getting excited building my first one.


Not sure I am understanding your question exactly, but I believe the answer to the first one is "your just matching the diameter so it will fall out and hit the slide/ramp". Slide height should be fine.

Have you read the manual, and watched all of the videos? That might help if you have not already.

[Blackflag]

Not sure I am understanding your question exactly, but I believe the answer to the first one is "your just matching the diameter so it will fall out and hit the slide/ramp". Slide height should be fine.

Have you read the manual, and watched all of the videos? That might help if you have not already.

Thanks man. Yes, I read the manual and watched the vids. Just havent got to test it hands on yet, so sure once I do it will be easier to tweak it.

[GWS]

Good luck with the Fishing Weight collator!;) Curious to know if it works for what you want....trying hard to even understand why you collate them.....always learning.....and speaking of learning...

Tyler, I finally got another Dayton Motor for the "just right" size collator. Got it from Grainger. So I learned something in the process. We have a Grainger outlet in my town, and on line, you can either order a part shipped or choose "will call". I had an account, so being the stupid motor is so expensive, and I'm so stupid cheap, I chose will call and that was easy peasy. You see if they ship it to their outlet......they.....pay shipping, and since either way, I have to pay sales tax, why not save the shipping. So if you happen to have a Grainger's near by keep that in mind.....accounts are free.

[31QjVP]

perfect. Thank you! Forgot it was all in github and was looking at an out of date zip file.

(This was around the 44 brass for APP)

[TylerR]

Good luck with the Fishing Weight collator!;) Curious to know if it works for what you want....trying hard to even understand why you collate them.....always learning.....and speaking of learning...

Tyler, I finally got another Dayton Motor for the "just right" size collator. Got it from Grainger. So I learned something in the process. We have a Grainger outlet in my town, and on line, you can either order a part shipped or choose "will call". I had an account, so being the stupid motor is so expensive, and I'm so stupid cheap, I chose will call and that was easy peasy. You see if they ship it to their outlet......they.....pay shipping, and since either way, I have to pay sales tax, why not save the shipping. So if you happen to have a Grainger's near by keep that in mind.....accounts are free.

That's a good point. I am not sure if there is one in my area. I would guess.

[Blackflag]

I totally missed the slide section in the manual. I found that and the spreadsheet this morning, so today I'm printing several slides for testing.

[r4ndy]

Running the light sensor for cases and bullets. The bullet one just started failing to power the motor intermittently. Doesn’t seem to be wiring and I can hear the sensor board clicking. Curious if anyone else has had the issue. Should be easy enough to troubleshoot but figured I’d post to see others experience as I may not get to it for a few days. I have probably 4-5k through it, so shouldn’t be worn out yet. Using the mid price motor in the instructions.

[TylerR]

Running the light sensor for cases and bullets. The bullet one just started failing to power the motor intermittently. Doesn’t seem to be wiring and I can hear the sensor board clicking. Curious if anyone else has had the issue. Should be easy enough to troubleshoot but figured I’d post to see others experience as I may not get to it for a few days. I have probably 4-5k through it, so shouldn’t be worn out yet. Using the mid price motor in the instructions.

I have not had that personally, but my uneducated guess would have to point to the light sensor board.

[M500]

Hi guys, looking for a little clarification on which springs correlate with the corresponding adapter. Not seeing springs in half milometer steps as shown in the manual. The link you provide is to springs with 1.0mm wire diameter, but there is also 1.2mm as an option. Looks like adapter size plus 2mm. Just not wanting to order the wrong ones. Thanks

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32803936381.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000013.11.39893 ecf8SYsjW&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.169870.0&scm_id=1007.13339.169870.0&scm-url=1007.13339.169870.0&pvid=98b37e9d-06c9-4688-b28e-5088c309c5eb&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.169870.0,pvid:98b37e9d-06c9-4688-b28e-5088c309c5eb,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238115%232000&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22:%2210000008067390378%22, %22sceneId%22:%223339%22%7D

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.28844c4dYdm 39m

292104

[TylerR]

Hi guys, looking for a little clarification on which springs correlate with the corresponding adapter. Not seeing springs in half milometer steps as shown in the manual. The link you provide is to springs with 1.0mm wire diameter, but there is also 1.2mm as an option. Looks like adapter size plus 2mm. Just not wanting to order the wrong ones. Thanks

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32803936381.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000013.11.39893 ecf8SYsjW&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.169870.0&scm_id=1007.13339.169870.0&scm-url=1007.13339.169870.0&pvid=98b37e9d-06c9-4688-b28e-5088c309c5eb&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.169870.0,pvid:98b37e9d-06c9-4688-b28e-5088c309c5eb,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238115%232000&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22:%2210000008067390378%22, %22sceneId%22:%223339%22%7D

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.28844c4dYdm 39m

292104

"Parts G and H are numbered according to the spring tube’s inner diameter
(ID); the outer diameter (OD) must not exceed the chart values to the right."

It is not calling for 1.5mm springs. Just saying OD can not be greater then that value. So there is .5mm of buffer.

Go with the 1mm dia springs. That is what I have and they are great.

[M500]

That's what I was thinking. Thanks TylerR.

[Blackflag]

I'm using this motor from Grainger:
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DC-Gearmotor-12V-DC-52JE51

And this hex coupler:
https://www.amazon.com/HJ-Garden-Coupling-Flexible-Connecting/dp/B07QCTC93S/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=8mm+Hex+Brass+Shaft+Coupling&qid=1613328346&sr=8-3

When i put it together, I noticed that the set screw on the coupler was sticking out and hitting the collator plate and not allowing one side to slide all the way down the shaft.

Would a small notch (.180) in the hex slip clutch fix this? The set screw is .150" wide.

292113

[nhyrum]

I'm using this motor from Grainger:
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DC-Gearmotor-12V-DC-52JE51

And this hex coupler:
https://www.amazon.com/HJ-Garden-Coupling-Flexible-Connecting/dp/B07QCTC93S/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=8mm+Hex+Brass+Shaft+Coupling&qid=1613328346&sr=8-3

When i put it together, I noticed that the set screw on the coupler was sticking out and hitting the collator plate and not allowing one side to slide all the way down the shaft.

Would a small notch (.180) in the hex slip clutch fix this? The set screw is .150" wide.

292113I think what's intended is for you to shave down the set screw but that notch would work too I guess

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I'm using this motor from Grainger:
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DC-Gearmotor-12V-DC-52JE51

And this hex coupler:
https://www.amazon.com/HJ-Garden-Coupling-Flexible-Connecting/dp/B07QCTC93S/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=8mm+Hex+Brass+Shaft+Coupling&qid=1613328346&sr=8-3

When i put it together, I noticed that the set screw on the coupler was sticking out and hitting the collator plate and not allowing one side to slide all the way down the shaft.

Would a small notch (.180) in the hex slip clutch fix this? The set screw is .150" wide.


Simplest is to just grind the set screw slightly. There is no notch in the clutch anymore, because every hex coupler was different, so it did not make sense.

[Dsltech1]

Gws: petg should survive in the car. I have a AA/AAA battery box I printed out that stays in the dash of my service truck. I haven’t experienced any issues with it yet. I don’t have any black petg to spare. But I have 3 rolls of overture petg I don’t have a use for. It likes to run hot and takes sometime to dial in but it works. I think the colors are electric blue, transparent, and pink. I might have some light blue to spare in greengate as well.

Tyler: Are there any future plans for a 300mm 634 body?


Do prints still come out smooth after sanding with 220? I need to sand one of mine down it has some build up now. I was going to use 1500. Wonder if the 220 would help with the corner curl I get on large high infill prints.

[TylerR]

Gws: petg should survive in the car. I have a AA/AAA battery box I printed out that stays in the dash of my service truck. I haven’t experienced any issues with it yet. I don’t have any black petg to spare. But I have 3 rolls of overture petg I don’t have a use for. It likes to run hot and takes sometime to dial in but it works. I think the colors are electric blue, transparent, and pink. I might have some light blue to spare in greengate as well.

Tyler: Are there any future plans for a 300mm 634 body?


Do prints still come out smooth after sanding with 220? I need to sand one of mine down it has some build up now. I was going to use 1500. Wonder if the 220 would help with the corner curl I get on large high infill prints.

I had considered it, yes. :)
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Main_Body_M634JS_300mm.stl

I know 220 might sound like too much, but trust me it is perfect. Will not affect the smoothness of your print, and you want that texture to get good first layer adhesion.

[GWS]

Gws: petg should survive in the car. I have a AA/AAA battery box I printed out that stays in the dash of my service truck. I haven’t experienced any issues with it yet. I don’t have any black petg to spare. But I have 3 rolls of overture petg I don’t have a use for. It likes to run hot and takes sometime to dial in but it works. I think the colors are electric blue, transparent, and pink. I might have some light blue to spare in greengate as well.

Tyler: Are there any future plans for a 300mm 634 body?


Do prints still come out smooth after sanding with 220? I need to sand one of mine down it has some build up now. I was going to use 1500. Wonder if the 220 would help with the corner curl I get on large high infill prints.

Interesting! I'll only use black as I don't want it to stand out.....it goes on top of the dash of my FourRunner. Thanks for the info, tho.
I agree with TylerR! I love my P.P. print bed, and the 220 Grit sanding does not effect smooth as a baby's butt bottoms!;)

Still not finished with my big case feeder/collator. I've been busy perfecting a few things....and of course putting together some more electrics. I'm using a heavy duty speed control and separate switch and managed to get confused with TylerR's wiring diagram using a relay (yup managed to wire it wrong)............so I decided to get my Autocad out and printed another more detailed drawing........to help slower people like me do it right. :)

Here's the drawing:

https://i.postimg.cc/85w0s1NK/Control-Box-Wiring.png (black screen means that the white wires represent the negative black side of the circuits....normally black wires.

Also posting a PDF file with the colors on a white background you can download & print below:

292449

Sigh....yes I designed and printed yet another electrical box for both sensor and power switch. The .stl is for sale cheap if anyone want it....$0 too much?


Links to parts I used:

This is the big speed control I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QVONO20?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

The power switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S2QJKTX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

The Prox sensor/switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWTQ3SF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

The Relay: (you may not get the one pictured, but it's the same thing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B888WVC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

And the Hex to screw to the Dayton Motor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJWH35L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details292449

[TylerR]

GWS, not sure if you ever saw this, but it is in the images folder. Another member here created a alternate wiring diagram a while back.

292439

[GWS]

GWS, not sure if you ever saw this, but it is in the images folder. Another member here created a alternate wiring diagram a while back.

292439



No I didn't. But I wanted a "picture" of how best to arrange it all in the box without losing track of which wire goes where and where I wanted wire nuts to be able to easily (somewhat) replace parts that might go bad.

Your diagram is right as rain, but easily mixed up since components are not arranged in my box.....some of us are easily confused....;) I don't use a lit on/off switch. Using what I had and not a biggy for me.

However the prox switch stays lit up.....and that bothers me.....I have to turn the plug strip off. No biggy either, but it just bugs. :)

[TylerR]

However the prox switch stays lit up.....and that bothers me.....I have to turn the plug strip off. No biggy either, but it just bugs. :)

I had that issue too in my first one, and it bugged the heck out of me. But that was because I had the combo controller/switch and I didn't want to have to always turn the speed all the way down to off. I added a regular switch and made sure the prox was wired after it and all was good.

[GWS]

Okay......I looked closer at the drawing the "other" guy did and figured out what ALL my problems were.......on your drawing I took the wrong wire as the blue wire and wired it to the relay. So fixed everything by just reversing the black and blue Prox wires and it works perfect. Prox light is on only when the motors running....hurray!

Yes....I corrected the PDF and the black backgound picture just now.....so all's finally well in my posts and in New Mexico!:) well except for the demn government.

[TylerR]

Okay......I looked closer at the drawing the "other" guy did and figured out what ALL my problems were.......on your drawing I took the wrong wire as the blue wire and wired it to the relay. So fixed everything by just reversing the black and blue Prox wires and it works perfect. Prox light is on only when the motors running....hurray!

Yes....I corrected the PDF and the black backgound picture just now.....so all's finally well in my posts and in New Mexico!:) well except for the demn government.

So, I may have done the same thing you did at one point........ let's fix this.

I just went and changed mine. The wires coming out of the sensor now show the colors more clearly. Brown = Positive. Blue = Negative. Black = Relay.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/Images/Proximity%20Wiring%20Schematic.png

[GWS]

Much Better! I can see clearly now!:)

[argus357]

Sorry, ignore my earlier post, didn’t notice the switch being used has an LED.

[GWS]

That's possible I suppose.....best not to. :) The negative in the switch is to light up the LED light in the switch when it turns on......I didn't use such a switch, but nothing wrong with using one. I figured if the motor turns on that's enough......if it doesn't I look for a full tube of cases or bullets. My simple switch has only two leads, but you can short it out if you plug in a negative wire too.;)

The Proximity switch has an LED that lights when motor's running but goes off when the sensor stops the motor when the tube fills. I'm just glad my blue/black wire mix up didn't fry that.

[nhyrum]

Ok, I'm slowly working on getting this feed die and system put together... I feel like I'm missing something between the top of the feed die and the bottom of the drop tube. It looks like the die should fit in the bottom, but the hole is quite a bit smaller, which to me would rule out shrinkage. Or should they fit together? I haven't measured bit it appears there's probably 3 to 4 millimeters differencehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211201/274673c3d2ca88610a5254f797e802fa.jpg

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[TylerR]

Ok, I'm slowly working on getting this feed die and system put together... I feel like I'm missing something between the top of the feed die and the bottom of the drop tube. It looks like the die should fit in the bottom, but the hole is quite a bit smaller, which to me would rule out shrinkage. Or should they fit together? I haven't measured bit it appears there's probably 3 to 4 millimeters difference


Those do fit together. They are designed to be printed high resolution (.12mm). One thing I have discovered with designing is, parts that have a close tolerance will be way off depending on the resolution. If I design a part around .2mm resolution and print them at .12mm, they will be way to lose, and vice versa. Not sure what resolution you printed at, but the ones pictured seem a little rough, so I suspect that is your issue. You can take care of it with a little sandpaper on both parts and you will be good to go.

That being said, if it is actually off by 3-4mm then you have something else going on.

[nhyrum]

I know the die I printed at .12 layers. Not sure about the drop tube. The spring adapter fits in the drop tube just fine... [emoji848][emoji848] Is it supposed to be a slip fit? I don't think so, but just making sure that there doesn't need to be any vertical movement during operation before I start sanding.

Also, how do you decide which set of holes the bearings go in the die body? I assume the different hole sets are for different bullet and cartridge lengths? This one will be feeding the Lee 230 grain in 300 blackout and have the bearings in the upper most holes. I guess I just am after how they function so I can understand how to troubleshoot and understand which direction they'd need to go, even though here there's really only one way.

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[TylerR]

I know the die I printed at .12 layers. Not sure about the drop tube. The spring adapter fits in the drop tube just fine... [emoji848][emoji848] Is it supposed to be a slip fit? I don't think so, but just making sure that there doesn't need to be any vertical movement during operation before I start sanding.

Also, how do you decide which set of holes the bearings go in the die body? I assume the different hole sets are for different bullet and cartridge lengths? This one will be feeding the Lee 230 grain in 300 blackout and have the bearings in the upper most holes. I guess I just am after how they function so I can understand how to troubleshoot and understand which direction they'd need to go, even though here there's really only one way.

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Not a slip fit, no. Just loose enough to get it on there and have it be snug.,

Pick a set of holes where the bullet sits just a bit higher then the hole with the bullet in the case, and the case inserted in to the die insert. You can also just start with the lowest holes and test it out. If no issues go with it.

[GWS]

Could it be a printer calibration problem.....I didn't have any problems like that at .12mm layers.

[nhyrum]

Could it be a printer calibration problem.....I didn't have any problems like that at .12mm layers.That's what I'm thinking too. Although a while ago I did go through and make the calibration squares and calibrated all the e steps, to make sure things were coming out dimensionally correct and it extruded the amount of material it was told. But what's odd is everything else fits together fine. The die screws in(a bit on the loose side though) the die fit together well, and other things I've made all fit correctly. I've spent probably 20-30 minutes sanding with 120 grit emery and it's just now starting to barley fit.

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[nhyrum]

Well, after about 45 minutes and burning though about 6 inches of 120 grit emery, I decided it might be faster to Chuck it up in my drill and go at it that way. Until I put too much pressure on it and it snapped...

I can't imagine that my printer could be printing things THAT far off, especially since everything else I've printed, even printed on separate days, fit together, like that ammo box I had modified. I also find it odd that every other part between these pieces fit fine. What's the inner diameter of the drop tube, and the outer diameter of the die insert supposed to be?

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[TylerR]

Well, after about 45 minutes and burning though about 6 inches of 120 grit emery, I decided it might be faster to Chuck it up in my drill and go at it that way. Until I put too much pressure on it and it snapped...

I can't imagine that my printer could be printing things THAT far off, especially since everything else I've printed, even printed on separate days, fit together, like that ammo box I had modified. I also find it odd that every other part between these pieces fit fine. What's the inner diameter of the drop tube, and the outer diameter of the die insert supposed to be?

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OD of die = 16.46mm. ID drop tube = 16.56mm. I assume you have the latest design, not that anything has changed recently.

[nhyrum]

It's the 300 blackout one, and yes, I'm using the new one.

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[TylerR]

It's the 300 blackout one, and yes, I'm using the new one.

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Just to make sure, I downloaded the .stl files off github and measured in 3d cad. Listed numbers above confirmed. It is either an issue with your slicer or printer. 3-4mm is off by a lot. I would start by taking a measurement of the feed die and make sure that is correct. That will at least narrow it down for you.

[nhyrum]

Just to make sure, I downloaded the .stl files off github and measured in 3d cad. Listed numbers above confirmed. It is either an issue with your slicer or printer.Cool. I guess I'll reprint the two and hopefully that fixes it.

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[GWS]

Hopefully it does, but this hobby is full of surprises. Every time I get cocky and think I got it all figured out I have a little reminder that I don't. Take tonight.....I've never had a print fall over and make spaghetti....then....I decide to print with supports, the rifle brass down tube....

https://i.postimg.cc/1tSmNgzr/IMG-3954.jpg

Now I'm going to plant that sucker flat on the bed like I did last time instead of how the .stl came....angled. I did it flat on the bottom last time and it worked perfectly.....and it wasn't the bed.....the bed stuck.....the support didn't stick to the model. Go figure....

TylerR....do you happen to remember the angle it's tilted? 30 degrees maybe?

https://i.postimg.cc/zfGZmn3M/brass-down-tube.png

[TylerR]

TylerR....do you happen to remember the angle it's tilted? 30 degrees maybe?


That sounds about right yes. That part does not need support to print.

[GWS]

On the first one I printed months ago I did rotate the .stl and it printed fine. But the .stl is angled on the bed to make the top vertical, so I "assumed" you had a reason for that, maybe to print the top twist lock better???? So, I decided to try printing it the "right way".;) Really hard to read my wife's mind.....much harder to read one many miles away.....I know shoulda emailed a question. Maybe I needed to experience spaghetti for the first time.

Anyway will print it again today....hope I have enough Overture Pro black left.

[TylerR]

On the first one I printed months ago I did rotate the .stl and it printed fine. But the .stl is angled on the bed to make the top vertical, so I "assumed" you had a reason for that, maybe to print the top twist lock better???? So, I decided to try printing it the "right way".;) Really hard to read my wife's mind.....much harder to read one many miles away.....I know shoulda emailed a question. Maybe I needed to experience spaghetti for the first time.

Anyway will print it again today....hope I have enough Overture Pro black left.

It is designed to be printed like shown here. You know I am not a support guy. There is only one part out of about 270 that requires supports in the whole project.

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[GWS]

Unfortunately, what threw me off was opening the .stl file for to slice it, and it was placed on the bed like this:

https://i.postimg.cc/d3NgG9dd/Brass-Drop.png

So I over-thunk it obviously. Maybe this exchange will prevent the next dummy from trying supports....this dummy is printing.....again.;)

[45acp]

And so it begins.
This is a BIG collator.:)
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[nhyrum]

Ok so, i think I might have it narrowed down. I think it's over extruding. Even though when I tell it to extrude 10 cm of filament, it extrudes 10cm. I now recall that to get things looking better, I had to turn the flow percentage down 5% ish. Last night I printed both the 10 drop tube and the die insert, and it's still far too large to fit, but I didn't turn down the flow. I should have measured, but my calipers are in the garage and I don't really want to go out and get them [emoji1787] but, I did find the first die insert I got to print, that I think I had the flow turned down for... And guess what, it fits perfect!

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[DekM]

Ok guys, I'm getting confused about which springs I should order...I want to load 9mm and .45

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[TylerR]

Ok guys, I'm getting confused about which springs I should order...I want to load 9mm and .45


I recommend you go with the 12mm OD(10mm ID) and 15mm OD(13mm ID). You can take care of most anything with those.

[Dsltech1]

I had considered it, yes. :)
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Main_Body_M634JS_300mm.stl

I know 220 might sound like too much, but trust me it is perfect. Will not affect the smoothness of your print, and you want that texture to get good first layer adhesion.

Awesome! Thanks Tyler!
I’ll definitely give that 220 a try when I sand the plate down.

[nhyrum]

Well, I think I've found my issue with my dies not fitting together, and why the older insert fit, but my newer ones did not. Last night I couldn't find the spring adapter that sets into the feeder body. Even with the flow rate set at 90%, it was incredibly tight. After that I decided to go through and check my e steps and flow rate calibration, and the e steps were way off. Not long ago I got a bad nozzle jam and had to replace the nozzle, and I went with a different nozzle, that just must have had different flow characteristics, because my esteps were way too high. Reran an e step calibration and checked my flow rate calibration and reprinted the die insert, drop tube, and adapter, and the parts actually fit! Albeit pretty tight, they actually fit!

I guess what I'm trying to say is, if you change nozzles to a different manufacturer, etc, not, you bought a pack of all the same nozzle and you replaced one with the same nozzle, it would be a good idea to verify your e steps are the same.

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[TylerR]

Well, I think I've found my issue with my dies not fitting together, and why the older insert fit, but my newer ones did not. Last night I couldn't find the spring adapter that sets into the feeder body. Even with the flow rate set at 90%, it was incredibly tight. After that I decided to go through and check my e steps and flow rate calibration, and the e steps were way off. Not long ago I got a bad nozzle jam and had to replace the nozzle, and I went with a different nozzle, that just must have had different flow characteristics, because my esteps were way too high. Reran an e step calibration and checked my flow rate calibration and reprinted the die insert, drop tube, and adapter, and the parts actually fit! Albeit pretty tight, they actually fit!

I guess what I'm trying to say is, if you change nozzles to a different manufacturer, etc, not, you bought a pack of all the same nozzle and you replaced one with the same nozzle, it would be a good idea to verify your e steps are the same.

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Glad to see you got to the bottom of the issue. That is a good lesson for all of us when swapping out a nozzle.

[nhyrum]

Would a custom set have to be designed? Or could a 40 body and 9mm guts be used? I don't shoot 357 SIG, but 9x25 Dillon, which is the same concept but using a 10mm parent case instead of 40 s&w.



After looking at it closer, I realize I spoke too soon. The 9mm die should work just fine with 357 sig. :)


I'm just wanting to verify this from a bit ago, the 9mm die set will fit a case like 357 sig? or would I need to use the 40 s&w body?

I'm finally getting everything ready and running... kind of with 300 blackout, but realized i printed the wrong slide plate. I think I've been working on this thing for about 2 years now, and hoping the feed plate is my last hurdle!

now all i have to do is get primers... :-(

[TylerR]

I'm just wanting to verify this from a bit ago, the 9mm die set will fit a case like 357 sig? or would I need to use the 40 s&w body?

I'm finally getting everything ready and running... kind of with 300 blackout, but realized i printed the wrong slide plate. I think I've been working on this thing for about 2 years now, and hoping the feed plate is my last hurdle!

now all i have to do is get primers... :-(

I don't think anything I currently have is going to work for 357 sig. The 9mm insert is not compatible with the 40sw body because the diameters are not the same.

primers.......yeah. I have been watching for them to pop up recently but its like finding a unicorn right now. Not sure if you have used it before but ammoseek.com is your best bet. Set up a saved search with notifications.

Ohh just looked on there and saw this. Won't last long I am sure.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1301332027?pid=332027&utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=ammo-seek&utm_campaign=332027

Here is the search I used currently.
https://ammoseek.com/reloading/primers?ekw=zincpoint&ikw=pistol

[TylerR]

This is completely untested, but here is a 9mm insert sized to the 40sw body. Should work in theory.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/7.%20Bullet%20Feed%20Dies/Feed_Die_357Sig_Insert.stl

[nhyrum]

This is completely untested, but here is a 9mm insert sized to the 40sw body. Should work in theory.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/7.%20Bullet%20Feed%20Dies/Feed_Die_357Sig_Insert.stlAwesome! I really appreciate all the tailoring that goes on in this thread! I'll give that a try, and hopefully I can get to it within a week. I need to find some Magnum large pistol primers, I MIGHT have a single... Solitary... Tray left [emoji22] I've got an app that sends me emails when certain things come in stock.

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[nhyrum]

ok, so I'm having an issue getting the my 300 blackout bullet to drop from the feed plate. It will jam on just about every bullet. If I bump the plate backwards they'll drop. I've tried adjusting the angle, its almost like it needs to be adjusted more level, but if it goes too far, the bullets don't stay in the collator, and they still don't drop. I've watched the video linked in the manual for long bullets nose up(looks like the same bullet I'm using) and I've tried running my feeder even slower than that, and no dice. working on getting a video uploaded. I haven't tried any other bullets(I don't have any other feed plates printed out ATM, and low on filament).

any ideas on what it could be?

[TylerR]

ok, so I'm having an issue getting the my 300 blackout bullet to drop from the feed plate. It will jam on just about every bullet. If I bump the plate backwards they'll drop. I've tried adjusting the angle, its almost like it needs to be adjusted more level, but if it goes too far, the bullets don't stay in the collator, and they still don't drop. I've watched the video linked in the manual for long bullets nose up(looks like the same bullet I'm using) and I've tried running my feeder even slower than that, and no dice. working on getting a video uploaded. I haven't tried any other bullets(I don't have any other feed plates printed out ATM, and low on filament).

any ideas on what it could be?

Once you get the video up we should be able to troubleshoot it.

[GWS]

.....any ideas on what it could be?

Did you try slowing it down? Hope you installed a speed control. I used to play with high speed and was successful, but it was really just to see if I could. You can't reload that fast so I came to my senses, added speed controls and slowed my collators way down......finding the builds became much easier to make them drop 100% and plenty fast enough.

[nhyrum]

https://vimeo.com/655061227

here's a short clip. in the preview it looks a bit...potato-ey... I clipped and downgraded the quality it in an attempt to get it to upload directly. I could post the full video if needed I guess.

GWS, yes I've got a speed controller and I did try running slowly. just at the end of the clip it runs REEEEEALLLLY slow and a few drop, but its just about too slow for the motor to handle

[TylerR]

https://vimeo.com/655061227

here's a short clip. in the preview it looks a bit...potato-ey... I clipped and downgraded the quality it in an attempt to get it to upload directly. I could post the full video if needed I guess.

GWS, yes I've got a speed controller and I did try running slowly. just at the end of the clip it runs REEEEEALLLLY slow and a few drop, but its just about too slow for the motor to handle

Video is very tiny and hard to see, but is there a lip between the slide plate and the main body that the boolit hanging up on? That should be a flat, smooth transition. It looks like the base is catching there?

If that is not the case, a longer full sized video would help.

[nhyrum]

https://vimeo.com/655065308

Here's the full, high quality video, hopefully it's better.

The slide plate is fine, where they hang up is dropping down out of the plate, into the adapter. Other times, if I have the speed set too low, the motor doesn't have enough torque to get past the spring loaded flipper thing(I forget what it's called). The adapter that screws to the bottom that the different spring adapters connect to, does it need to be in a certain orientation? The hole in the spring adapters is a little off center, so I wonder if I have it put together wrong?

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[TylerR]

https://vimeo.com/655065308

Here's the full, high quality video, hopefully it's better.

The slide plate is fine, where they hang up is dropping down out of the plate, into the adapter. Other times, if I have the speed set too low, the motor doesn't have enough torque to get past the spring loaded flipper thing(I forget what it's called). The adapter that screws to the bottom that the different spring adapters connect to, does it need to be in a certain orientation? The hole in the spring adapters is a little off center, so I wonder if I have it put together wrong?

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There is no way I can see to enlarge that video. All I get is a very tiny preview in the browser. Also, I really need to see everything that is going on in the collator from more of an above perspective. All I can see is a very small section and it does not help me much.
If they are hanging up at the drop hole, perhaps there is an issue with the spring adapter you have there.

Edited: I remember now that CB automatically converts vimeo videos in to an embed, and it comes through tiny. I posted about my issues with it a few months back. Best thing to do is add some characters to the url so it will not auto embed. Then we can copy paste it manually in the browser.

[nhyrum]

1234https://vimeo.com/655065308

How's that? I'll work on getting an above view.

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[TylerR]

1234https://vimeo.com/655065308

How's that? I'll work on getting an above view.

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That is great for me to get the video full screen, but I can not see what is happening at the slide plate or at the drop hole, and the issue is in one or both of those places. I need a shot more from above and wide angle.
Also it is hard for me to tell how much angle you have on the collator. A pic from the side would help there.

[sierra1911]

Has anyone here used two photocells or proximity sensors, one at the top and one at the bottom of the drop tube assembly to control the motor so the motor starts running when the bottom sensor doesn't sense a case/bullet and turns off when the top sensor does sense a case/bullet?

Read a while back (think on this site) of a member who built his own case feed mechanism for a Dillon 550 with this arrangement. His bottom sensor latched on a relay and the top sensor unlatched it. He used a capacitor across the top sensor so the momentary interruption of a case/bullet dropping past the top sensor wouldn't unlatch the relay. The top sensor had to be blocked long enough for the capacitor to discharge to unlatch the relay.

No luck yet in locating that thread.

[GWS]

nhyrum: another possibility is that the bullets don't fall far enough.....IOW's they catch on something not smooth in the drop hole.....and the tips then interfere with the next bullet coming? How about a close-up at the drop hole?

Sierra1911: Guess I don't understand the need for more complexity. With what we do....with a single prox sensor.....if there's no stack the motor runs....when the stack fills the motor stops.....when the stack drops one or more the motor runs to fill it up again....then it stops when the sensor detects a bullet that high in the stack. TylerR noticed that a relay is needed to handle the amps involved in the 12V circuit using a motor using too many amps for the low amp sensor.

What does the second sensor accomplish more, and/or better in your mind? I never saw the post you are referring to....sorry.

[Sgt Beer Belly]

Ok I got bored and even though I printed the 300 size, I thought id try to make one from stuff laying around my garage.

Its about 90% done
The bottom end of a 5 gallon bucket cut to size
and a 12x2 piece of 12mm Birch aircraft ply.

Yeah I know, it looks like hell.

292875
292877
292878
292879
292880
292876

[TylerR]

Ok I got bored and even though I printed the 300 size, I thought id try to make one from stuff laying around my garage.

Its about 90% done
The bottom end of a 5 gallon bucket cut to size
and a 12x2 piece of 12mm Birch aircraft ply.

Yeah I know, it looks like hell.


Wow, that's pretty neat. Those plywood cuts look super clean. Only thing that jumps out at me is you will want to bevel down the lip where the slide plate meets the plywood. Where I made the blue box.

292882

[Sgt Beer Belly]

Thanks Tyler but that's just an optical illusion

Its actually very level

Edit: or does stuff get caught there ?

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[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler but that's just an optical illusion

Its actually very level

Edit: or does stuff get caught there ?
]

Brass plate looks great. For the bullet plates the lip I highlighted in red is a problem. It needs to be beveled.

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[nhyrum]

1234https://vimeo.com/655164563

Here's some pictures. I did pull the feed plate off to make sure it was flush *** the bottom of the collator, and it sits relatively flush, maybe 1/32 below flush. There are no obstructions in the adapter. I did have some odd bridging after the print, but that was cleaned up with a drill bit by hand. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211210/8c1fc8b6eb03b4269886ac4ac647c957.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211210/934fc2ea49e90611e06cf2522c958e74.jpg

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[TylerR]

1234https://vimeo.com/655164563

Here's some pictures. I did pull the feed plate off to make sure it was flush *** the bottom of the collator, and it sits relatively flush, maybe 1/32 below flush. There are no obstructions in the adapter. I did have some odd bridging after the print, but that was cleaned up with a drill bit by hand.


Perfect. That painted the picture for me. Which spring adapter are you using, and what size spring?

[nhyrum]

Perfect. That painted the picture for me. Which spring adapter are you using, and what size spring?#10 adapter and 10mm Id, 12mm od spring

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[TylerR]

#10 adapter and 10mm Id, 12mm od spring

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OK. My guess is you are using the standard 10mm adapter? Which is offset. Print out the "Spring_Adapter_10_Flush.stl" and give it a try. Your issue should be resolved.

[sierra1911]

Sierra1911: Guess I don't understand the need for more complexity. With what we do....with a single prox sensor.....if there's no stack the motor runs....when the stack fills the motor stops.....when the stack drops one or more the motor runs to fill it up again....then it stops when the sensor detects a bullet that high in the stack. TylerR noticed that a relay is needed to handle the amps involved in the 12V circuit using a motor using too many amps for the low amp sensor.

What does the second sensor accomplish more, and/or better in your mind? I never saw the post you are referring to....sorry.

It greatly reduces the number of start/stop cycles on the motor. For example when I'm loading 9 mm, my Dillon casefeeder motor starts and stops for each round loaded; 4,000 rounds equals 4,000 cycles on the motor. Also, I have to listen to the almost constant noise of cases rattling in the feeder.

While my Dillon casefeeder motor has been running since the late '90s and has fed many tens of thousands of cases, I was thinking that for a few dollars of electronic parts (an extra sensor and a capacitor) the silence between filling tubes might be nice. Maybe even build extras for my Dillon case feeders as the electronic parts often come in multiples from Amazon.

Still haven't found the original post. It was either here, on the Brian Enos forum or on Dillons (now deleted?) forum.

Splurged and ordered a Prusa i3 MK3S+ last week on their black Friday sale but it won't arrive until next month.

[TylerR]

It greatly reduces the number of start/stop cycles on the motor. For example when I'm loading 9 mm, my Dillon casefeeder motor starts and stops for each round loaded; 4,000 rounds equals 4,000 cycles on the motor. Also, I have to listen to the almost constant noise of cases rattling in the feeder.

While my Dillon casefeeder motor has been running since the late '90s and has fed many tens of thousands of cases, I was thinking that for a few dollars of electronic parts (an extra sensor and a capacitor) the silence between filling tubes might be nice. Maybe even build extras for my Dillon case feeders as the electronic parts often come in multiples from Amazon.

Still haven't found the original post. It was either here, on the Brian Enos forum or on Dillons (now deleted?) forum.

Splurged and ordered a Prusa i3 MK3S+ last week on their black Friday sale but it won't arrive until next month.

I definitely get the concept, and it makes total sense. I have not tried to wire up anything like that though, so not much help to you there. If you do get something working I would love to see how you set it up.

Interestingly my collator design would allow you to easily do this, using both the standard and collator mounted drop tubes.

[sierra1911]

I definitely get the concept, and it makes total sense. I have not tried to wire up anything like that though, so not much help to you there. If you do get something working I would love to see how you set it up.

Interestingly my collator design would allow you to easily do this, using both the standard and collator mounted drop tubes.

I'll definitely share, but it'll be a while since it'll be over a month until I receive my printer. The concept is to use the existing wiring for the lower sensor and add a wire from the output of the relay, thru the upper sensor, to the input of the relay, thus latching it on. When the bottom sensor turns on the relay, the relay output then provides power thru the upper sensor back to its own input, holding it on after the lower sensor has turned off. When the upper sensor turns off, it interrupts the power thru the latching wire and as the bottom sensor is also off, the relay turns off the motor. A capacitor across the upper sensor provides power to the input of the relay during the brief periods when a case/bullet momentarily interrupts the upper sensor on its way to the bottom of the drop tube. All simple except playing with the capacitance value to ensure that the latch stays on but doesn't run too long after the drop tube is full.

Thank you for all of your and other's endless work on this project.

[TylerR]

I'll definitely share, but it'll be a while since it'll be over a month until I receive my printer. The concept is to use the existing wiring for the lower sensor and add a wire from the output of the relay, thru the upper sensor, to the input of the relay, thus latching it on. When the bottom sensor turns on the relay, the relay output then provides power thru the upper sensor back to its own input, holding it on after the lower sensor has turned off. When the upper sensor turns off, it interrupts the power thru the latching wire and as the bottom sensor is also off, the relay turns off the motor. A capacitor across the upper sensor provides power to the input of the relay during the brief periods when a case/bullet momentarily interrupts the upper sensor on its way to the bottom of the drop tube. All simple except playing with the capacitance value to ensure that the latch stays on but doesn't run too long after the drop tube is full.

Thank you for all of your and other's endless work on this project.

That's a great explanation of the concept, thanks. Do you know what sensor the person who set this up originally was using? I wonder if the capacitor is still required if using the proximity sensor.

[GWS]

Interesting stuff......I wonder how many times the 3d printer's stepper motors go on and off......

At my age, I doubt the collator motors will die before I can't load anymore.....but you young guys might need such a thing.;)

Good luck with your mission....

[sierra1911]

That's a great explanation of the concept, thanks. Do you know what sensor the person who set this up originally was using? I wonder if the capacitor is still required if using the proximity sensor.

The person who originally set this up was using photocell sensors and a separate relay for the latching since the photocell modules were 5 volt instead of 12 volt. He was also using a voltage regulator to drop the 12 volt power supply to 5 volts for the control circuitry:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TGKNDRB/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A184VL207F2WL2&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WCBLQTP/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_6?smid=&psc=1

If the proximity sensors are slower to respond to the presence of a case/bullet than the time it takes a case/bullet to fall past the upper sensor, a capacitor wouldn't be needed.

GWS: Thinking that the stepper motors are designed for the start/stop stuff, normal DC motors not so much. Don't know how long the motors from Amazon will last compared to the ones Dillon uses. I personally am most interested in the quiet between tube fills.

[GWS]

Every collator I have ever used is quiet between tube fills .... even my Hornady AC powered one, once I modified it with an AC Proximity switch. Except for the first little Ammo Mike one, my 3D printed collators all use Dayton 12V gear motors.

Seems to me that the enemy to DC motors is heat. In this application, with TylerR's clutch design.....they run really cool.....no matter how much they start and stop.

[TylerR]

If the proximity sensors are slower to respond to the presence of a case/bullet than the time it takes a case/bullet to fall past the upper sensor, a capacitor wouldn't be needed.


I think they may be, but that is a guess. Having the capacitor there is probably the best method. I will admit that I am curious about setting one up, although I have 3 collators, and it would require 3 more prox sensors, so I will most likely won't.
Also, I am not a big fan of having the spring full of bullets. If you have any slack in the spring it can cause issues. Cases are not as big of an issue.