Making that Bullet Collator

[Kausit]

GWS, I added the link to print the control box, front panel and buttons on the first link that I posted that has the pictures etc...
Aliexpress does not give much information, I believe all the units are the same but I have no way to tell for sure. I see pictures with very slight differences. The one from Aliexpress looks almost like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/5V-36V-Module-Trigger-Switch-Display/dp/B07H7L9W3T
reading the instructions on this it sounds like it has the same program as the one I bought from TEMU.

I also posted on my first post of this how to program it.

[calgarysparky]

neat concept for sure. TBH I don't even hear the motors or kicker when reloading, too focused on my press and watching the rounds. But will be neat to see some feedback on it.

[torpedo2k]

Not sure that this exact unit has been shown here. This timer will take the place of the SSR and will run the motor for a preset time so that your not starting and stopping the motor every cycle of the press. I set it to feed about 4 or 5 bullets at a time. You have to use a normally closed proximity switch.
323496323497323498
I put the control box, front panel and buttons on thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6491582

Timer normal mode:
buttons left to right- 1. STOP 2. SET 3.UP 4.DOWN
button 1 in normal mode will stop the unit, press once for OFF and again for ON. NOTE if unit will not run press the
button because the unit maybe in the off mode. nothing tells you its in the off state.
button 2 short press will display current settings. button 3 & 4 do nothing in normal mode.
Timer how to Program:
press button 2 for two seconds
press button 3 till display reads P-4
press button 2 display will show OP and blink 3 times, then will display digits 000
press button 3 to adjust seconds. exp: 035
press button 1 will cycle the decimal 0.3.5./03.5/035. 03.5 seconds is what I set.
press button 2 for 2 seconds to save settings. DONE.

:goodpost:

[flybyjohn]

I like my Amazon price better.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KS8B1X3/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08KS8B1X3&pd_rd_w=F3sbj&content-id=amzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_p=f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_r=256AKWX1DTE0NPVZCP54&pd_rd_wg=FgqoL&pd_rd_r=d195fa31-58bb-45ac-9e46-2f8e06908d77&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

[flybyjohn]

Looking at the timer relay and other ones like it, I am wondering if this one isn’t a solid state relay. I don’t see a relay contact box on the board and it does say in the description that it doesn’t make a clicking sound. I’m not sure exactly what solid state is but I just assumed no moving contact points. Usually means last more cycles.

[flybyjohn]

The boards look almost identical from the picture Kausit posted and the HW-0516 besides the soldered holes in the upper left corner just above the SIGN block. In Kausits picture they have solder in them and the Amazon ones do not that aside from the Hw-0516 board number missing.

[Kausit]

Flybyjohn, this timer has a dual mosfet transister. so your correct it has not mechanical relay. its the same as an SSR. no clicking sounds.
I have seen about 3 different of these timers almost identical with a couple small differences. I think they all operate the same but without have one of each I am just taking an educated guess.

[GWS]

The boards look almost identical from the picture Kausit posted and the HW-0516 besides the soldered holes in the upper left corner just above the SIGN block. In Kausits picture they have solder in them and the Amazon ones do not that aside from the Hw-0516 board number missing.

Oh no........not the same at all.....the one in my post is HW-516 (no zero in front) Version 3.0.0!.....rolling eyes.....I hate Chinese parts. Here today gone tomorrow......but what else is there anymore?....heck, even all auto body parts, whether they are Toyota, Chevrolet, Ford, or Chrysler, are Chinese manufactured now. America has sold out, period....and those who caused it ought to be tried as traitors, IMO.

Rant over....I do like the amazon option better than Aliexpress....I looked but didn't find that Amazon option....sometimes Aliexpress takes forever to get anything.....a last resort. Since you found better options, I'm going to remove the Ali one.

[r4ndy]

Thanks for the tips on the stuck bullets. I’ll try printing the new peer drop tubs mine are probably 2 years old. In looking at the issue, seems like three bullets are lodging in the tube just above the sensor. A little jiggle frees them up usually and they drop.

323560

[00DAR]

In regards to universal case drop tubes. Thanks to both of you for this. I, of course have all of mine printed in the first version. Time to print some over.

[GWS]

Thanks for the tips on the stuck bullets. I’ll try printing the new peer drop tubs mine are probably 2 years old. In looking at the issue, seems like three bullets are lodging in the tube just above the sensor. A little jiggle frees them up usually and they drop.
https://i.postimg.cc/Wz8njTch/IMG-4716.jpg

All that shows me is that you have the springtube going into the bottom fitting at an angle, which can create a shelf to catch bullets. But you can't tell whether the shelf is at the transition between the tube and fitting or the fitting and downtube or both. Take it all loose and fit them one at a time and find where the bullet bases are stopping and see if you can file or Dremel what's sticking out providing the bullets a place to catch, gone.

Also from what we've already discussed and illustrations in my previous post demonstrates, tube may still be too big and/or pulled apart enough to create spaces where the bullet bases can catch in the tube itself too. But the end of the spring make need to be filed or trimmed too. Trial and error.....we "builders" all go through that.;)

But just keep in mind that when bullets fill the tubes they stop when full...and if there's too much width they bunch up.....and that bunching angles bullets in the tube, whether in the spring or in the transitions, fittings, or even in the drop-tube. So all of the above need to be minimum I.D. so at rest they don't bunch sideways and friction prevents further movement.

Look for funnels from wide to narrow too....they can and will bunch and hang in those too. Hopefully if you have any funneled areas, they are above the switch far enough that when the switch de-energizes bullets don't bunch up in one.

[Gillie Dog]

Thanks for the tips on the stuck bullets. I’ll try printing the new peer drop tubs mine are probably 2 years old. In looking at the issue, seems like three bullets are lodging in the tube just above the sensor. A little jiggle frees them up usually and they drop.

I have had the same experience. But I run the tightest drop tubes, adapters and springs the bullet will go through comfortably.

What I found was the first coil of the spring would push into the hole a little if the spring was run all the way to the bottom of the "threads" and if the spring had a tiny bend in the end towards the center of the hole a bullet would hang up on the spring and it looks just like your picture. Also I have taken the spring tube and adapters off, turned them 180 degrees and put back would solve it sometimes.

My experience.

GD

[flybyjohn]

I just printed the APP main bracket and was wondering what this recess and hole are for. I assume it’s for a captured nut and thumb screw. Am I correct? 323631

[TylerR]

Okay....annoyance works! I can relate to that.... :) Right now the most annoying thing in my life is fighting traffic every morning going to work. Either there are 20,000 more annoying drivers in my city than last year, or I'm losing the battle handling old age.......and then there's handling change.....that gets worse every year too......somebody please find a cure for aging.......okay I'll settle for a cure for neuropathy.

May have to buy one just to see what I'm missing......at least curiosity isn't getting weaker.

Flybyjohn: $6.18 won't break anyone either.....what remains to be seen is if it really is less annoying.....if it is, then the change is worth it.

My next and final collator base will be another normal sized one......will look into this seriously when I'm printing it....and need another E. box.

Did I miss seeing a link?

I thought you were retired my friend?

[TylerR]

I just printed the APP main bracket and was wondering what this recess and hole are for. I assume it’s for a captured nut and thumb screw. Am I correct? 323631

correct.

Edited to add: 3mm cap screw and nut. 10-15mm long works. There is a thumb_screw_small stl in the Main Body folder.

[flybyjohn]

Setting up my new Lee APP press, to use the collator and APP printed parts and I just noticed Lee really cheaped out on the upgraded Lee APP. I had one from a few years ago and the one I got last week is not near the quality as the first one. Went from solid vertical guide rods to rolled un-welded steel smaller diameter ones. The rear folded tie link is also cut out. Probably a holdover from their first run at the rear priming press. Disappointing Lee, really Disappointing.

323678323679

[calgarysparky]

Setting up my new Lee APP press, to use the collator and APP printed parts and I just noticed Lee really cheaped out on the upgraded Lee APP. I had one from a few years ago and the one I got last week is not near the quality as the first one. Went from solid vertical guide rods to rolled un-welded steel smaller diameter ones. The rear folded tie link is also cut out. Probably a holdover from their first run at the rear priming press. Disappointing Lee, really Disappointing.

323678323679

brutal.....

[TylerR]

Setting up my new Lee APP press, to use the collator and APP printed parts and I just noticed Lee really cheaped out on the upgraded Lee APP. I had one from a few years ago and the one I got last week is not near the quality as the first one. Went from solid vertical guide rods to rolled un-welded steel smaller diameter ones. The rear folded tie link is also cut out. Probably a holdover from their first run at the rear priming press. Disappointing Lee, really Disappointing.



Wow that's pretty lame. Why would they mess with it? Cheaper to make sure, but it is not a beefy press by any means to begin with.

[calgarysparky]

Aight, going to set up my APP to bulge bust prior to loading up. Going to be 9mm. Looking at the files I see the base up slide plate, a different drop chute which is straight vs angled. Just wondering if I need to lay my sorter flatter or?

[TylerR]

Aight, going to set up my APP to bulge bust prior to loading up. Going to be 9mm. Looking at the files I see the base up slide plate, a different drop chute which is straight vs angled. Just wondering if I need to lay my sorter flatter or?

Not flatter. You need a lot of angle on the feeder for the mechanism to work.

[calgarysparky]

Not flatter. You need a lot of angle on the feeder for the mechanism to work.

Perfect! Just drawing up a 300 size plate based on your thickness, with a couple of tweaks, heh.

[calgarysparky]

Perfect! Just drawing up a 300 size plate based on your thickness, with a couple of tweaks, heh.

323709

[TylerR]

323709

You need to include the pivots. Base up design needs them, and was the original reason they were coded.

[calgarysparky]

You need to include the pivots. Base up design needs them, and was the original reason they were coded.

Missed them!! Adder time

[calgarysparky]

323725 Just to save some material.

[TylerR]

Just to save some material.

I like that design. you are modifying the openscad file or using something else?

[calgarysparky]

I like that design. you are modifying the openscad file or using something else?

The openscad generator, then modded up with freecad. It's printing right now so we'll see how she works tomorrow.

[GWS]

The openscad generator, then modded up with freecad. It's printing right now so we'll see how she works tomorrow.

On pins and needles........:) Saving material is a good thing if it's still strong enough. Couldn't help wondering if starting the pivots at the peak and continuing the angle to the edge would be another option if needed. But what you got could work too. Interesting unique design for sure.

Curious how you are using an openscad file in freecad......didn't know they were compatible.....details? ;)

[calgarysparky]

All I do is import the stl and create an object. Then mod away.

[calgarysparky]

323749 finished project. Will let ya know how it works this eve.

[GWS]

So Freecad can edit .stls. That may be worth looking at. Design Spark took that feature away in it's new lesser free version, which was disappointing. It didn't modify circles well anyway, but it was useful for some things.

Plate looks good, hope it works as good as it looks. Always sweet when a design works perfect the first try. :) If is has problems with cases not wanting to go up the incline, try more angle. If that's necessary (hopefully not), you may even want to make an outlet with more angle. Fun stuff isn't it.

[flybyjohn]

I’ve been using freeCAD, to modify STL‘s also. What I do is make a mesh out of the STL then make an object out of the mesh and then refine the object. The problems I’ve been running into doing this is that freecad is really slow in doing any drawing or updating the file with the converted STL. Besides, the APP inserts, which were very easy to modify, I found the bullet plates take too much time to update the drawing with my modifications. It was actually faster to just draw out a plate myself with my modifications.

The other problem I ran into was that any STL file I brought in wasn’t on the XYZ axis center that I wanted it so I would have to offset my XYZ to try and match the STL. But like I said the Lee APP inserts, since Tyler had already figured out the sizes and heights I left the outside dimensions alone and just modified the insides to fit my tubes and tightened up the bullet fit better. It only required a quick one sketch drawing of the inside profile from top to bottom and then I padded it around the z axis. I left the outside alone and they printed and work very well.

[calgarysparky]

So Freecad can edit .stls. That may be worth looking at. Design Spark took that feature away in it's new lesser free version, which was disappointing. It didn't modify circles well anyway, but it was useful for some things.

Plate looks good, hope it works as good as it looks. Always sweet when a design works perfect the first try. :) If is has problems with cases not wanting to go up the incline, try more angle. If that's necessary (hopefully not), you may even want to make an outlet with more angle. Fun stuff isn't it.

I've done a lot of changes and additions to this project to suit my personal needs and enhance my usability of certain things. I'm going to see how the drop chute works but will probably draw one up with a angle to it or maybe an adapter that has an angle to it. I run 9mm exclusively so everything I build is tailored towards that. I forked the project and keep adding items to it and maybe I'll send a pull request to Tyler when I am happy with my final additions.

[TylerR]

I'm going to see how the drop chute works but will probably draw one up with a angle to it or maybe an adapter that has an angle to it.

If you are using it for baseup brass feeding DO NOT DO THIS. I mean you can certainly try, but it will just cause you endless headaches. I probably burned 50 hours on this issue alone. Any changes to the geometry on that drop chute will cause cases to jam.

Base up brass feeding is extremely finnicky, and every detail on the design represents hours and hours of problem solving, design, redesign, and a lot of filament.

[GWS]

I sure wouldn't know.....I have bulge busted some .40S&W on a RockChucker years ago with a Redding Gx, but never have run into 9mm problem brass....so that's not a feature I use. Brass for me is base down collating only....and glad of it, I can see. I only do two things on an APP....deprime brass before tumbling, and swage primer pockets....and I never collate, base up, anything, bullets neither.....so that in my mind, as my best friend loves to say, "is just wrong"! ;)

[calgarysparky]

I sure wouldn't know.....I have bulge busted some .40S&W on a RockChucker years ago with a Redding Gx, but never have run into 9mm problem brass....so that's not a feature I use. Brass for me is base down collating only....and glad of it I can see. I only do two things on an APP....deprime and swage primer pockets....and I never collate base up, anything.....so that in my mind, as my best friend loves to say, "is just wrong"! :)

Glock bulge is a thing, even with MA dies. If I forgo powder check and use a FC die I can get down to 4-5 out of 100 that need to run through the buster, otherwise it's like 15-30 every hundred. Don't feel like dropping 1k on a rollsizer so busting prior to loading should help. I'm a competition shooter so I'm very picky about my ammo, lol

[calgarysparky]

If you are using it for baseup brass feeding DO NOT DO THIS. I mean you can certainly try, but it will just cause you endless headaches. I probably burned 50 hours on this issue alone. Any changes to the geometry on that drop chute will cause cases to jam.

Base up brass feeding is extremely finnicky, and every detail on the design represents hours and hours of problem solving, design, redesign, and a lot of filament.

So was it the lip of the inverted case catching on the printed lines? I'm thinking of printing it in abs and vapor smoothing to eliminate that issue. Fun weekend ahead!! LOL

[TylerR]

So was it the lip of the inverted case catching on the printed lines? I'm thinking of printing it in abs and vapor smoothing to eliminate that issue. Fun weekend ahead!! LOL

That is part of it yes, and you definitely want to smooth it out. But if it is angled no amount of smoothing will solve the problem, in my experience.

to expound on your question about feeder angle, you want a lot of angle because gravity is what forces the case to pivot outward on the pivot point.

[calgarysparky]

That is part of it yes, and you definitely want to smooth it out. But if it is angled no amount of smoothing will solve the problem, in my experience.

to expound on your question about feeder angle, you want a lot of angle because gravity is what forces the case to pivot outward on the pivot point.

Gotcha. Here is my attempt this weekend, LOL.323762323763

[TylerR]

Gotcha. Here is my attempt this weekend, LOL.323762323763

Good luck. I assume you left the geometry of the chute intact? If you make that bend very gradual and make it smooth as glass you may get it to work. For me I just rely on the natural curvature of the spring.

[calgarysparky]

Good luck. I assume you left the geometry of the chute intact? If you make that bend very gradual and make it smooth as glass you may get it to work. For me I just rely on the natural curvature of the spring.

Sure did. We'll see how it goes, you can see right down the hole from the top. My reason behind this is my bench set up and the equipment that is on it. My APP and the AI case sorter use the same 300 that is mounted on a post. Depending on what I am doing I can rotate the 300 to get to both machines. Plus I like to fiddle n fart around, hehe.

[flybyjohn]

Be carful stretching springs. I was stretching one last night with pliers on one end and holding the other with my hand. The pliers let loose at full stretch and the thumb got a nice round chunk of skin removed really clean. Not sure what actually did the cutting but assume it got between two coils when the rest of the spring came back.

Bad place for a boo-boo. The thumb does a lot of things dying the day.

323764

[TylerR]

Be carful stretching springs. I was stretching one last night with pliers on one end and holding the other with my hand. The pliers let loose at full stretch and the thumb got a nice round chunk of skin removed really clean. Not sure what actually did the cutting but assume it got between two coils when the rest of the spring came back.

Bad place for a boo-boo. The thumb does a lot of things dying the day.



Ouch! Stretching springs is definitely a gamble. I lock one end in a vice. Hold the other end with vice grips and stretch. I wear leather gloves, glasses, and turn my head away, lol. I have not had one let loose on me yet.
Of course the other trick is to actually stretch it the correct amount.

[calgarysparky]

323776 WHOOOP WHOOOP!!!! My chute works like a hot dam!!! Just sent 500 cases through the 300 with my modded plate and new chute and zero jams and everything flipped!!! SUCSESS!!! Such an amazing project!!!

[TylerR]

323776 WHOOOP WHOOOP!!!! My chute works like a hot dam!!! Just sent 500 cases through the 300 with my modded plate and new chute and zero jams and everything flipped!!! SUCSESS!!! Such an amazing project!!!

That is great news! Would you be willing to share a video of it running? To be honest you are one of the first people to run base up on the collator, and I would love to see it in action. So far the only video out there is mine.

[calgarysparky]

That is great news! Would you be willing to share a video of it running? To be honest you are one of the first people to run base up on the collator, and I would love to see it in action. So far the only video out there is mine.

I will do one up in the am. It's fascinating how it works.

[TylerR]

I will do one up in the am. It's fascinating how it works.

I appreciate that analysis. I spent more time on the base up design than all of the other aspects of the collator. It was a real head scratcher. If you look at the details of the slide plate you kind of get a sense. Every little thing on that plate is to solve a particular issue. The pivot points were a huge part of it which RedLegEd helped me with in openscad. And it is something that no other collator offers, free or otherwise. To have someone use and appreciate it is satisfying.

[GWS]

Congratulations! Very satisfying to make something like this.....that works....first time even....impressed to say the least.

[calgarysparky]

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/LWk7aHOQxMs Runs like a champ!! Added my light sensors to the drop chute, everything filled right up, no snags on anything and bulge busting on the APP is golden!!

[TylerR]

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/LWk7aHOQxMs Runs like a champ!! Added my light sensors to the drop chute, everything filled right up, no snags on anything and bulge busting on the APP is golden!!

Very nice! You are actually the first person to run it on the 300mm size collator, so that's awesome.

[TylerR]

One part that you are not using is the brass base up ramp. It may not be necessary, but if you find cases are sometimes having a hard time flipping it will fix that.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Ramp_Brass_Base_Up_300mm.stl

[calgarysparky]

One part that you are not using is the brass base up ramp. It may not be necessary, but if you find cases are sometimes having a hard time flipping it will fix that.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Ramp_Brass_Base_Up_300mm.stl


Thanks!

[calgarysparky]

Well after 3k pieces I am happy to say that I haven't had any jams or cases come down the incorrect way. Only thing to do is slow the speed down some so the cases have time to fall into the chute.

[TylerR]

Well after 3k pieces I am happy to say that I haven't had any jams or cases come down the incorrect way. Only thing to do is slow the speed down some so the cases have time to fall into the chute.

I did notice in your video you were running it pretty aggressively.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
Anyone else than me that have had issues with the feed die dropping more than one bullet at a time ?
Running 223 Rem bullets (Hornady 55 grain FMJ) with the ball bearings in the lowest position. Using 2 springs for the feed die.

[GWS]

After I printed mine, I got two drill bits out.
One, the inside diameter hole size, and ran it through the bottom hole set all the way threw the die....hand twist it just enough, so the holes are round. Repeat for the other two hole sets.

Then find a bit, the larger outside diameter size, and carefully clean up the outside, hand twisting only. Use the angled drill tip to just touch and clean the angle between inside holes and outside holes. ,You don't want to drill through or bearings will fall inside. But enough so that the ball bearing is allowed to go nearly half way in,
or IOW's in far enough to be flush with the outside diameter of the inner part of the die.

Doing that, mine worked to perfection.....but note that my printer is tuned well enough that dimensions really do print to spec. You may have to test your state of tne, because there isn't much room for error on these mating sliding surfaces.

Or you can bag it and buy Lee's new inline bullet feed dies in that tiny, the most sensitive caliber.....@ TitanReloading ....:) $36.50 on sale. I've been wanting to try one so I ordered the .243 version (no TylerR version yet anyway) ..... yes it works too. (Couldn't miss since they copied TylerR's design, except they use an internal spring to replace the outside ones.;)) https://www.titanreloading.com/?s=Lee+inline&post_type=product

My post with the test video of the new TylerR .223 bullet feed die that I did is: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5668568&viewfull=1#post5668568

[TylerR]

Dear Team !
Anyone else than me that have had issues with the feed die dropping more than one bullet at a time ?
Running 223 Rem bullets (Hornady 55 grain FMJ) with the ball bearings in the lowest position. Using 2 springs for the feed die.

That is a new one on me. I use the same die. first thought, how far is the die pushing up when loading a bullet? It should be the smallest amount to allow a bullet to drop.

[rogerandre]

Hi TylerR
I had a look at GWS video and minimized the distance of the die lift and that seems to work. Will do some further investigations.
Any experience on how many bullets a printed feed die will be able to handle before time to renew with new printed parts ?

[TylerR]

Hi TylerR
I had a look at GWS video and minimized the distance of the die lift and that seems to work. Will do some further investigations.
Any experience on how many bullets a printed feed die will be able to handle before time to renew with new printed parts ?

have not heard of anyone needing to replace one yet. it is not a high wear part.

[calgarysparky]

Hi TylerR
I had a look at GWS video and minimized the distance of the die lift and that seems to work. Will do some further investigations.
Any experience on how many bullets a printed feed die will be able to handle before time to renew with new printed parts ?

Got 40k on mine so far loading 9mm. I had a buddy snap his, but he was a little gassed and fell into his press, LOL

[GWS]

One of mine lasted two weeks.......had everything to do with dropping it on the floor and stepping on it......so don't step on it and don't drink while reloading as calgarysparky pointed out. I've seen no wear from feeding bullets ......

I tried a 3D printed shell holder, once........not a good place for plastic......ripped a case right though it, first try, sizing .9 mm. Doh! Saw that on Thingiverse.....don't believe everything you see on Thingiverse. ;)

[JStuhlmiller]

I solved bulged cases with roll sizing.

[calgarysparky]

I solved bulged cases with roll sizing.

I would but at $1200 canadian for the manual unit I may as well use my app.

[JStuhlmiller]

Glock bulge is a thing, even with MA dies. If I forgo powder check and use a FC die I can get down to 4-5 out of 100 that need to run through the buster, otherwise it's like 15-30 every hundred. Don't feel like dropping 1k on a rollsizer so busting prior to loading should help. I'm a competition shooter so I'm very picky about my ammo, lol

me too I rollsize! some 9mm bulges but 40 is just a giant pain

[rogerandre]

Dear Team
I am looking for Spring_Drop_Tube_11 but in the repo I can “only” find Small, Medium, Large and Extra large.
What size should I use for 223 Rem and 9x19 ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger
323891323892

[M500]

Dear Team
I am looking for Spring_Drop_Tube_11 but in the repo I can “only” find Small, Medium, Large and Extra large.
What size should I use for 223 Rem and 9x19 ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger
323891323892

Look Here (https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/tree/main/5.%20Adapters) about 20 rows up. Use the #11 spring adapters. I think that is what you are referring to. If you are going on top of a feed die you will also need the medium or large you were looking at.

[TylerR]

Dear Team
I am looking for Spring_Drop_Tube_11 but in the repo I can “only” find Small, Medium, Large and Extra large.
What size should I use for 223 Rem and 9x19 ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger


.223 - Small
9x19 - Medium

[rogerandre]

.223 - Small
9x19 - Medium

Huge Thanks !

[rogerandre]

Dear team !
Just me that experience differences with the tolerances based on the filament ?
PLA Plus gives close to perfect fit almost all the time, PLA Meta and some sanding is required.
With both filaments the prints come out really nice. Calibrated Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro.
Best regards
Roger

[GWS]

Dear team !
Just me that experience differences with the tolerances based on the filament ?
PLA Plus gives close to perfect fit almost all the time, PLA Meta and some sanding is required.
With both filaments the prints come out really nice. Calibrated Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro.
Best regards
Roger

I've never used PLA Meta, is Meta a brand? I've found the biggest improvement fit-wise for me, was reducing layer height from the normal .2 to .12, when I want to print small parts that have to fit to each other.

[460S&W]

OK all, this thing is sweet, i have an issue that is minimal. Why does my collator openscad not look like the instructions? I like how simple the interface is on the PDF vs what mine looks like...

[TylerR]

OK all, this thing is sweet, i have an issue that is minimal. Why does my collator openscad not look like the instructions? I like how simple the interface is on the PDF vs what mine looks like...

There is an interface in the java Parts Generator. That is what you see in the manual. If you are opening the generator directly in openscad it is all code. There are so many parameters in it now to handle all the different plates it can be intimidating, but it is well documented and there are a lot of code examples at the bottom.

[460S&W]

Ok, Tysm I will take a look at that! Appreciate the hard work everyone put into this

[rogerandre]

I've never used PLA Meta, is Meta a brand? I've found the biggest improvement fit-wise for me, was reducing layer height from the normal .2 to .12, when I want to print small parts that have to fit to each other.

Thanks GWS,
PLA Meta is from JAYO.
The parts that i need to sand are printed in .12.
Examples of where I have a poor fit is Spring_Drop_Tube_X on top of feed dies, and APP_X_Insert_X inside APP_Bracket_Main.
Perhaps just something with my setup and/or the filament.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !

I have started fiddling with the Lee APP accessories.
Firsts tests will be with 223 brass that will be decapped and swaged.

First challenge I encountered is that the APP_Brass_Insert_223 goes below the riser and prevent the slide from moving. Should I use washers below the APP_Bracket_Main to provide clearance ?

324133324134
Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

[TylerR]

Dear Team !

I have started fiddling with the Lee APP accessories.
Firsts tests will be with 223 brass that will be decapped and swaged.

First challenge I encountered is that the APP_Brass_Insert_223 goes below the riser and prevent the slide from moving. Should I use washers below the APP_Bracket_Main to provide clearance ?

324133324134
Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

It was designed to have one of the 1/4" nuts where you indicated.

[460S&W]

It was designed to have one of the 1/4" nuts where you indicated.

I had this same issue until I realized I missed the nut :/

[TylerR]

I had this same issue until I realized I missed the nut :/

I am looking at the manual and will put a statement in there that the nut is required.
Wait NVM. it is already in there.

"This main bracket replaces the stock APP tube brackets allowing for usage of the quick caliber change system. Thread a ¼” nut between the press and bracket to achieve the proper height."

[TylerR]

I just added a new 5.45x39 feed die to github.

[MSUICEMAN]

I had this same issue until I realized I missed the nut :/Also guilty as charged. Honestly how I stumbled upon the APP upgrades I didn't even see the manual, so that's my alibi.

Tyler does a really good job documenting things as I've learned through my somewhat sloppy process of getting my collator together. When all else fails look in the project folder and/or manual. It's probably in there.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[rogerandre]

I am looking at the manual and will put a statement in there that the nut is required.
Wait NVM. it is already in there.

"This main bracket replaces the stock APP tube brackets allowing for usage of the quick caliber change system. Thread a ¼” nut between the press and bracket to achieve the proper height."

Ouch ……..classic RTFM scenario. My bad. Please accept my sincere appologies.

For the Lee APP accessories is it correct that APP_Spring_APP_Insert_X can be fitted directly on top of APP_Brass_Insert_223 (like on the picture) ?
Works and feeds fine from what I can see now but APP_Spring_APP_Insert_X have a rounded top(shaped for APP_Drop_Tube_X_Adapter/ APP_Offset_Connector_X).

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger
324176

[Silverbullit]

Yo mates, everything good?!? :))

Me and mates having a marvelous time fiddling with your cool stuff, hehe

I dunno if were supposed to say anything but noticed that
"Drop_Tube_Prox_Alt_12mm" is missing, well it is there but it is a duplicate of "Drop_Tube_Prox_12mm".
Just in case you wanna know mates? :))


Also, trynna learn some TinkerCad to fiddle and make some ideas and mods I wanna share with you guys. (Not saying good, in fact prolly horrible, but I still wanna share and show you my brainfarts since they might trigger you expert gurus to have some experiments, haha)=
However TinkerCad aint doing it, as in I mean that I cant do stuff like round corners and stuff so I probably need a more universal software to manifest my mindboggling brainfarts as .stl's?

Were having immense fun putting these together and gosh were running everything through these that we can rip off the walls and whatnot!
My mate got a mold for a puny 100gn SWC .38sp bullet that some of the guys are loading like pushing them down to the primer so you gotta peek down the brass-hole to even see theres a bullet down there...
These puny jokes of bullets did cause some confusion for the poor bulletfeeder and some got stuck sideways dropping out of the tray down that hole, it is somewhat V shaped unlike me so I think thats the conundrum.
So heres my TinkerCad solution - and you'll never guess this (particularly if you know me) but my fix actually worked!!!
Hmm, how do I share the .stl here?
Guess it's not here then since my anti-talent for that intrawebb stuff, anyone gots any ideas how to share it here?
Very modest fix, but since it actually worked... mebbe it's shareable?

Butt back to the software issue,
Thus I turn to you mates, can you recommend something other than TinkerCad, preferably free?
I'm an old dog so it would be nice if it was somewhat intuitive, haha
Anyhows would appreciate your thoughts on this

May the force be with you mates!
/Silverbullit the Swedish Chupacabra!

[ranger391xt]

One part that you are not using is the brass base up ramp. It may not be necessary, but if you find cases are sometimes having a hard time flipping it will fix that.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Ramp_Brass_Base_Up_300mm.stlI am trying to get brass base up working on a 300 size as well. I downloaded the 1.4.6.5 release and do not see the 300 Brass Base Up ramp file in the zip file. I Logged in to GitHub and I do not see it in the Main Body folder either. Am I blind? UPDATE: Found it in GitHub by switching to the main branch instead of the release.

Am I correct that for base up feeding of 40 S&W, the small pistol brass base up collator plate and brass base up small slide plate are the correct ones to use?



Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[calgarysparky]

I've been using freecad for the past 18 months or so. Not gonna lie, learning any real cad program is gonna take time. I like freecad due to the overwhelming amount of video tutorials on it. I've learned a lot and can draw up a lot of things quite quickly now when someone has an idea that they want turned into reality. My models now compared to 14 months ago are so dramatically better. Also burning tons of filament and learning about 3d printing has helped in that and drives my designs. Give it a look and see what you think.

[ranger391xt]

I've been using freecad for the past 18 months or so. Not gonna lie, learning any real cad program is gonna take time. I like freecad due to the overwhelming amount of video tutorials on it. I've learned a lot and can draw up a lot of things quite quickly now when someone has an idea that they want turned into reality. My models now compared to 14 months ago are so dramatically better. Also burning tons of filament and learning about 3d printing has helped in that and drives my designs. Give it a look and see what you think.+1 on the FreeCad. Been using it off and on since I bought my first printer back in 2021. I have modeled things from scratch (ex. the wife asked for something to put on the inside of cabinet door to hold gladware lids), reverse engineer replacement part (pool skimmer basket handle), and take stls and tweak/modify them - event cut up two stls so I could merge features into one model. FreeCad definitely has a lot of functionality.

That said, it can also be quirky. I have tried to modify features of a model only to have it completely jack things up. Example, if I have a model with 6 features, call them 1 thru 6, and I decide to change feature 3, then features 4-6 might get messed up and the only way to fix the model is to remove those features and re-add them after modifying feature 3.

In general tho, you can't beat what it can do for the price.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I am trying to get brass base up working on a 300 size as well. I downloaded the 1.4.6.5 release and do not see the 300 Brass Base Up ramp file in the zip file. I Logged in to GitHub and I do not see it in the Main Body folder either. Am I blind? UPDATE: Found it in GitHub by switching to the main branch instead of the release.

Am I correct that for base up feeding of 40 S&W, the small pistol brass base up collator plate and brass base up small slide plate are the correct ones to use?


While the 40 brass will fit in the small collator plate, I don't think many will drop in. I did all my testing for .40 using the large plates.

[TylerR]

Yo mates, everything good?!? :))

Me and mates having a marvelous time fiddling with your cool stuff, hehe

I dunno if were supposed to say anything but noticed that
"Drop_Tube_Prox_Alt_12mm" is missing, well it is there but it is a duplicate of "Drop_Tube_Prox_12mm".
Just in case you wanna know mates? :))


Glad to hear you guys are making the most of it!

That may have been a mistake on my part. All of the alt drop tubes were recently updated. Check out the latest.

[M500]

I just added a new 5.45x39 feed die to github.

Hi TylerR, have any luck with the Grendel die? Thanks

[TylerR]

Hi TylerR, have any luck with the Grendel die? Thanks

I have one designed but have no way to test it. I will post it to github if you want to give it a try and give me feedback.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/7.%20Bullet%20Feed%20Dies/Feed_Die_6.5G_Set.stl

[M500]

Its on the printer. I will know tonight how it does. Thank you.

[robpiat]

I found some references to it but no file. Does anyone have a bracket or adapter to use this on the X-10 to the OEM tubing that the case feeder is on?

[TylerR]

I found some references to it but no file. Does anyone have a bracket or adapter to use this on the X-10 to the OEM tubing that the case feeder is on?

What exactly are you looking for.? Looking at the x-10 press, I would probably run a 1" tube up from the bench.

[robpiat]

What exactly are you looking for.? Looking at the x-10 press, I would probably run a 1" tube up from the bench.

I'm printing out this bracket to see if I can make it work. Ideally, I'd want to mount it on the tube that's integrated in the press rather than another. Plenty of height for it.

https://www.printables.com/model/690897-mr-bullet-feeder-bracket-for-frankford-arsenal-x-1

Back in the thread I found something but not sure exactly how that works.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5571562&viewfull=1#post5571562

[M500]

I have one designed but have no way to test it. I will post it to github if you want to give it a try and give me feedback.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/7.%20Bullet%20Feed%20Dies/Feed_Die_6.5G_Set.stl

Insert ID is too small. I can force bullets in, but tight. Ends are deburred. I can test print a tube for ID size when I am done with current print.

[TylerR]

Insert ID is too small. I can force bullets in, but tight. Ends are deburred. I can test print a tube for ID size when I am done with current print.

OK, did you run a round file down it a couple of times to smooth it out? 6.5G spec says bullet dia is 6.71mm (.264) The insert diameter is 6.9mm in 3d CAD. Are the bullets you are using 6.71mm?

I just opened it up to 7mm even. Gives you .3mm clearance. I updated github.

The other thing I want to make sure is that the bearing holes are in a workable location for the bullets you are using. I think you would use the middle hole.

[M500]

The revised insert still required a little cleanup around the holes, but works great afterwards. 123's work well from the middle hole. A 130 scirocco feed some and stuck some in the middle, thinking it would be fine in the top hole. Don't have anything lighter to test, but should be good I think.

I'll let you think about this zip a little bit. Something I've been working on. Thank you TylerR.

[TylerR]

The revised insert still required a little cleanup around the holes, but works great afterwards. 123's work well from the middle hole. A 130 scirocco feed some and stuck some in the middle, thinking it would be fine in the top hole. Don't have anything lighter to test, but should be good I think.

I'll let you think about this zip a little bit. Something I've been working on. Thank you TylerR.

That is good. The bearing placement relative to the die body is a big part of figuring these dies out. Would love to hear if the top hole works for the longer bullets.

[M500]

I tested the 130 in the top hole. It works good. Even the 123 works well in the top hole, as its tip is past them. I have nothing longer or heavier than the 130 to test. It may be necessary to have holes further up if one was looking to load the 147's or 153's, but those won't be used in the grendel. However it appears that this die would also work on a creedmoor case. They frequently are loaded with a 147 or 153, though I wouldn't expect them to be loaded on a progressive.

If you choose to change it, don't add another set of holes to the top. The insert doesn't move much to release a bullet when bearings are in the top hole. Instead, lengthen the insert below the holes. Probably add some thread length to the body if you do. Not needed for the grendel though, works good as is. Thank you.

[Silverbullit]

Glad to hear you guys are making the most of it!

That may have been a mistake on my part. All of the alt drop tubes were recently updated. Check out the latest.

You make no mistakes TyleR, you are p e r f e c t !!! :popcorn:
Thanks mate!
I'm checking it out right now :))

[TylerR]

You make no mistakes TyleR, you are p e r f e c t !!! :popcorn:
Thanks mate!
I'm checking it out right now :))

Haha! far from it. I just cover my mistakes well :)

[rogerandre]

Dear Team,

What size of the APP_Offset_Connector_X do you recommend for 9x19 and 223 rem brass ? Neither caliber brass will pass the APP_Offset_Connector_10.stl.

Best regards
Roger

[TylerR]

10mm drop tube, 11mm offset for both.

[rogerandre]

10mm drop tube, 11mm offset for both.

Huge thanks Tyler !

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !

Anyone that have been playing with a small camera/screen to monitor the brass/bullet level in the collator ?
Perhaps just using a small Tuya camera and stream to a phone ?

Best Regards
///Roger

[TylerR]

Huge thanks Tyler !

You bet! General rule of thumb is the offset should be one step larger than the drop tube.

[TylerR]

Dear Team !

Anyone that have been playing with a small camera/screen to monitor the brass/bullet level in the collator ?
Perhaps just using a small Tuya camera and stream to a phone ?

Best Regards
///Roger

I think most people use a mirror. I have never bothered

[rogerandre]

I think most people use a mirror. I have never bothered

I guess I am just a geek :-D

[rogerandre]

I think most people use a mirror. I have never bothered

Please post some pictures of your mirror setup. When time permits.

[TylerR]

I think most people use a mirror. I have never bothered


Please post some pictures of your mirror setup. When time permits.

I don't have a mirror setup. never found it that necessary so didn't set one up.

[RedlegEd]

Please post some pictures of your mirror setup. When time permits.
Hi,
I use a mirror (actually it's mirror finished acrylic from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07173LNJ3/ref=sbl_dpx_decor-mirrors_B07173LNJ3_0)). This is how I mounted mine on my Dillon 650XL (not sure why the pics have rotated sideways.) I don't use it so much for checking volume as just monitoring performance and potential jams. Hope this helps.
Ed
324685 324686 324687

[TylerR]

Hi,
I use a mirror (actually it's mirror finished acrylic from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07173LNJ3/ref=sbl_dpx_decor-mirrors_B07173LNJ3_0)). This is how I mounted mine on my Dillon 650XL (not sure why the pics have rotated sideways.) I don't use it so much for checking volume as just monitoring performance and potential jams. Hope this helps.
Ed


Hey Ed! Haven't heard from you for a coons age. Hope all is well.

[RedlegEd]

Hi. Yep, it's been a while. Doing well and enjoying retirement. Hope all is well with you and yours.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !

Is the Rifle_Brass_Collator_Plate_Large.stl the optimal plate for 308 Win brass ?
Best regards
Roger

[M500]

That appears to be the correct one for the standard body.

[GWS]

Dear Team !

Is the Rifle_Brass_Collator_Plate_Large.stl the optimal plate for 308 Win brass ?
Best regards
Roger

Yes and all cases based on it, like .243W, or similar size....for larger, longer calibers, you might use the plate generator...... It's a pretty simple thing to measure the case length, add 3mm and plug in that value where it asks for hole width......and do specify the plate diameter for the size base you have printed (I think that is in the manual), and plate thickness to match the thickest diameter of your case.


Hi. Yep, it's been a while. Doing well and enjoying retirement. Hope all is well with you and yours.

Hi Ed! Always great to hear from my first mentor! Retirement still eludes me....even though I have arrived at the pretty much worthless age of 74. ;)

[rogerandre]

Dear Team!
Any plans on adding a small hole (or similar) in the main body to allow for dumping out sand and other dirt from range brass ?
Best regards
Roger
324724

[GWS]

I now realize that collating range brass to an APP to deprime it fast before tumbling, you might get some sand in the mix that will end up in the collator base......so why not use one of these? Then once deprimed it's readly to be wet tumbled if you are as anal as I am. ;)

https://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-AeroSlim-Cordless-Handheld-29869/dp/B087HQRW2M/ref=asc_df_B087HQRW2M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459412170414&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11472403891429331331&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=2840&hvtargid=pla-943410095243&psc=1&mcid=ad12ca13af5f368f98e6270261e4ef8f&gclid=CjwKCAjwzN-vBhAkEiwAYiO7oH5UCcQiSwjpoe97l2qKjx9thl9w4eMJaE9xN dIrq1qakV9fwn254xoCz08QAvD_BwE

This little jewel isn't that cheap, but I'll bet the Mrs. would love one too.......you could.....share....;)

[r4ndy]

Someone here recommended this mirror a while back. Clipped on to the brass feeder I can see in both collators, nice for seeing if a plate is jammed when I have music going or running the trimmer on the Dillon with muffs on.

Link (https://www.amazon.com/sspa/click?ie=UTF8&spc=MTo4NjIxMjczODk5MjAwNzg6MTcxMDgwOTU0MjpzcF9hdG Y6MjAwMDk3NTYxMzMzMDk4OjowOjo&url=%2FSecurity-Computer-Personal-Rearview-Rectangle%2Fdp%2FB07ZTGLPBD%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2_sspa%3F crid%3D1H6ZIVDTP6NRN%26dib%3DeyJ2IjoiMSJ9.UIqxB-QhXU1abu0OXBqJnLSr8xKFAJOB_8H5pk0sM5YSmHoUCh7WSRxa BFuNwWLJ5SIkzdoA9Y4Rv7cEj0dm3HRCFZtWQqkA1alNTpT8nw XtETrig9eRNQR3hDtvgg-iXTuKVSDXQxRHNHdsyFPWI8FGLtjI-LUniU4tj3zWgVbl3x5bwOWo7wSAKPneUIZCjDuI4hIPaGJQ2PI __RzjnSC8BzXnmm4Mo2rWO9zgPF8nL2Yw2wdLqpVrBQHgtkD_Z yBiq0-_s59s0VOyq30Pzcx9rnNhHhMqZWaIXESyMs0.fTy3uS5bry6jL mKLc9GF4cq1Zlb4E_RTRBz0-bH-vy8%26dib_tag%3Dse%26keywords%3DClip%2Bmirror%26qi d%3D1710809541%26sprefix%3Dclip%2Bmirror%252Caps%2 52C115%26sr%3D8-2-spons%26sp_csd%3Dd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY%26psc%3D1 )

[TylerR]

Dear Team!
Any plans on adding a small hole (or similar) in the main body to allow for dumping out sand and other dirt from range brass ?
Best regards
Roger


I have considered the same. Would need a trap underneath to catch the debris. I will look at it.

[rogerandre]

I have considered the same. Would need a trap underneath to catch the debris. I will look at it.

Thanks alot for the exellent feedback.

TylerR, the idea of a trap (perhaps just a hose) is great. One of my other brass feeders just drops on the bench and makes a mess.

Once again thanks !

[TylerR]

Thanks alot for the exellent feedback.

TylerR, the idea of a trap (perhaps just a hose) is great. One of my other brass feeders just drops on the bench and makes a mess.

Once again thanks !

Was doing some loading last night and looking at the collator, and immediately it jumped out at me that the mount is typically at the back of the feeder. which is where the debris is going to gather. So any hole right there would have to pass thru the mount. Not sure that's gonna work too well.

[GWS]

That brought a smile! :) Sure it'll work....as long as the mount is a steel tube. Tubes are hollow......maybe one could send all the debris down the mount......maybe have a bottom outlet where a vacuum hose could be stuck in. See, made you smile too.....okay maybe with rolling eyes.....;)

[rogerandre]

Was doing some loading last night and looking at the collator, and immediately it jumped out at me that the mount is typically at the back of the feeder. which is where the debris is going to gather. So any hole right there would have to pass thru the mount. Not sure that's gonna work too well.

Think the debris will follow the collator clockwise and end up just to the right of the mount. At least that was the case for me. (BTW love GWS sense of humor :-)).

[rogerandre]

Dear Team!
Anyone that by chance have designed a collator plate for 6.5x55 Swedish brass base down ?
Best regards
Roger

[calgarysparky]

Dear Team!
Anyone that by chance have designed a collator plate for 6.5x55 Swedish brass base down ?
Best regards
Roger

The large rifle plate should work.

[GWS]

My large rifle plate has slots only 54mm, long to accommodate .308 Winchester. the 6.5x55 Swedish is 55mm long....so not likely.

May be time to learn how to use the plate builder.....

TylerR added a section in the code to quickly modify it to a random caliber, but I've never used it. I think it needs 12 more lines.....so if it works he'll have to explain how.....I'm dumber....;)

What I would do (least with what I know at the moment) is this for 6.5x55 Swedish:

22 collator_plate_d = 179.5; (for normal sized base) 247.5 for the 300 base or 297 for Mongo
25 description ="6.5x55 Swedish";
27 collator_plate_h = 8;
31 addRamps = false;
36 isRifleBrassPlate = true;
37 rifleHoleWidth = 12;
40 addPivots = false;
41 addSlides = false;
42 addSideSlides = false;
45 addRidges = true;
46 ridgeCenter = true;
47 ridgeAlternate = true;
48 ridgeHeight = 2.0;
49 ridgeLength = 30;
50 ridgeAngle = 30;
52 addBevel = true;
54 hole_multiplier = 1.5;
57 useClutch = true; (if you are using a clutch)
60 useHex = false; (if using a clutch)
61 addHexHandle = false;

That's 20 lines of code to modify.....

Then I'd have to comment out TylerR's new "customize here" lines that start with line 78....which mostly just repeat what I already specified, but doesn't include all my lines modified, just 8 of the 20 lines above. Adding the customize section below the other code effectively "updates" parameters from previous lines.....so he added the customize section to change program parameters listed above them. But if they are already changed as I did above them, then they are redundant.....either change them or change the originals as I did. I just question if he has all the lines needed. He may have....

But if you changed the lines above them, you can comment out those lines 78 to 85 by adding two forward slashes at the beginning of the lines like this:

// description=".300 AAC Blackout"; (line 78) Or use the "Customize" lines and add any extras you may need to change.

If that's wrong....TylerR will have to chime in and correct me. He knows that software better than I do, and I know what he's trying to do.....help simplify a caliber change....changing parameters in the lines of code specified for another case, to whatever new case you are doing.....but I don't understand why he didn't have to modify the other 12 lines.....bet he'll explain......

[rogerandre]

My large rifle plate has slots only 54mm, long to accommodate .308 Winchester. the 6.5x55 Swedish is 55mm long....so not likely.

May be time to learn how to use the plate builder.....

TylerR added a section in the code to quickly modify it to a random caliber, but I've never used it. I think it needs 12 more lines.....so if it works he'll have to explain how.....I'm dumber....;)

What I would do (least with what I know at the moment) is this for 6.5x55 Swedish:

22 collator_plate_d = 179.5; (for normal sized base) 247.5 for the 300 base or 297 for Mongo
25 description ="6.5x55 Swedish";
27 collator_plate_h = 18;
31 addRamps = false;
36 isRifleBrassPlate = true;
37 rifleHoleWidth = 12;
40 addPivots = false;
41 addSlides = false;
42 addSideSlides = false;
45 addRidges = true;
46 ridgeCenter = true;
47 ridgeAlternate = true;
48 ridgeHeight = 2.0;
49 ridgeLength = 30;
50 ridgeAngle = 30;
52 addBevel = true;
54 hole_multiplier = 1.5;
57 useClutch = true; (if you are using a clutch)
60 useHex = false; (if using a clutch)
61 addHexHandle = false;

That's 20 lines of code to modify.....

Then I'd have to comment out TylerR's new "customize here" lines that start with line 78....which mostly just repeat what I already specified, but doesn't include all my lines modified, just 8 of the 20 lines above. Adding the customize section below the other code effectively "updates" parameters from previous lines.....so he added the customize section to change program parameters listed above them. But if they are already changed as I did above them, then they are redundant.....either change them or change the originals as I did. I just question if he has all the lines needed. He may have....

But if you changed the lines above them, you can comment out those lines 78 to 85 by adding two forward slashes at the beginning of the lines like this:

// description=".300 AAC Blackout"; (line 78) Or use the "Customize" lines and add any extras you may need to change.

If that's wrong....TylerR will have to chime in and correct me. He knows that software better than I do, and I know what he's trying to do.....help simplify a caliber change....changing parameters in the lines of code specified for another case, to whatever new case you are doing.....but I don't understand why he didn't have to modify the other 12 lines.....bet he'll explain......

GWS you are spot on as always.
I will give plate builder a shot. Will just see if TylerR have any divine feedback. Will of course share when I have a working plate. All about teamwork !

[GWS]

GWS you are spot on as always.
I will give plate builder a shot. Will just see if TylerR have any divine feedback. Will of course share when I have a working plate. All about teamwork !

Line 27 maybe should be more like 12 than 18.....18 may allow double stacking of cases....closer to your base dia...preferably just a little less. My .308 plate is 8mm high and works perfect.

[TylerR]

GWS you are spot on as always.
I will give plate builder a shot. Will just see if TylerR have any divine feedback. Will of course share when I have a working plate. All about teamwork !

Easiset thing to do is to go to the example section and find the large rifle brass block of code. copy it, and replace what is in the "#### Customize Here ####" section. Then change what you need. This is a good starting point.

description="Large Rifle Brass";
caliber=56;
collator_plate_h=6;
isRifleBrassPlate = true;
rifleHoleWidth = 11;
hole_multiplier=.8;
ridgeAngle = 0;

[rogerandre]

Easiset thing to do is to go to the example section and find the large rifle brass block of code. copy it, and replace what is in the "#### Customize Here ####" section. Then change what you need. This is a good starting point.

description="Large Rifle Brass";
caliber=56;
collator_plate_h=6;
isRifleBrassPlate = true;
rifleHoleWidth = 11;
hole_multiplier=.8;
ridgeAngle = 0;

Worked out fine. If I should say something it sometimes takes time for the brass to fall into the slots. Perhaps the ridges can be enhanced.
Huge thanks for all the help.
325077
325078
325079

[TylerR]

Worked out fine. If I should say something it sometimes takes time for the brass to fall into the slots. Perhaps the ridges can be enhanced.
Huge thanks for all the help.


Did you make any changes to the settings? What sent over was my best guess. You could try increasing the rifleHoleWidth to 12

You can do all kinds of things with the ridges. Its all in the code, just gotta poke around.

ridgeAlternate = true; // Skip every other hole
ridgeHeight = 2.0; // Ridge height in mm
ridgeLength = 15; // Ridge length in mm
ridgeAngle =30; // Angle the ridges

[rogerandre]

Did you make any changes to the settings? What sent over was my best guess. You could try increasing the rifleHoleWidth to 12

You can do all kinds of things with the ridges. Its all in the code, just gotta poke around.

ridgeAlternate = true; // Skip every other hole
ridgeHeight = 2.0; // Ridge height in mm
ridgeLength = 15; // Ridge length in mm
ridgeAngle =30; // Angle the ridges

Hi TylerR !
Not done any changes yet. Will play around. Once again thanks !

[TylerR]

Hi TylerR !
Not done any changes yet. Will play around. Once again thanks !

I did just post a more recent version of the generator. v2.1.9. ton of new stuff in it but more complicated.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
Would be grateful for pictures/inspiration on what adapter that you have used to connect the spring from the collator to the casefeed body on a Dillon 750.
Are you hooking up to the casefeed adapter from the conversion kit or any other smart way direct from spring to the casefeed body ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

[TylerR]

Dear Team !
Would be grateful for pictures/inspiration on what adapter that you have used to connect the spring from the collator to the casefeed body on a Dillon 750.
Are you hooking up to the casefeed adapter from the conversion kit or any other smart way direct from spring to the casefeed body ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

This is fairly well documented. There is an adapter to go from a drop tube to the Dillon case feed adapter. Going to need more detail on what you have tried to give a good answer.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter.stl

Also you can check out "Tanders Case Feed Adapters" in contributors.

[rogerandre]

This is fairly well documented. There is an adapter to go from a drop tube to the Dillon case feed adapter. Going to need more detail on what you have tried to give a good answer.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter.stl

Also you can check out "Tanders Case Feed Adapters" in contributors.

You are truly a superstar TylerR !
What I am looking for in an optimal setup is something like Tanders 9mm_Dillon_Case_Feed_Adapter.stl but with integrated spring threads.
Now I guess I can use: Spring => Spring_Adapter_11_DT.stl => Tanders 9mm_Dillon_Case_Feed_Adapter.stl. Or any other suggestion ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

[TylerR]

You are truly a superstar TylerR !
What I am looking for in an optimal setup is something like Tanders 9mm_Dillon_Case_Feed_Adapter.stl but with integrated spring threads.
Now I guess I can use: Spring => Spring_Adapter_11_DT.stl => Tanders 9mm_Dillon_Case_Feed_Adapter.stl. Or any other suggestion ?

Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

Yes, everything is designed around the spring adapters. not direct to spring.

[comhertz]

Newbie to this project. Motor shaft attachment question:

I've looked through existing guides and docs and tried searching this thread but I've not found recommendations, or related stl, on how to attach the M634JS 8mm shaft motor to Slip Clutch 8.5mm.stl.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[TylerR]

Newbie to this project. Motor shaft attachment question:

I've looked through existing guides and docs and tried searching this thread but I've not found recommendations, or related stl, on how to attach the M634JS 8mm shaft motor to Slip Clutch 8.5mm.stl.

Thanks in advance for your help.

You have three options to choose from:

-Drive a pin directly thru the motor shaft.
-Use a hex adapter
-Use a hex adapter with a pin

Most people go with option two.
I use the last option. You can drive a pin thru the brass adapter easily, and the pin eliminates the possibility that the hex gets rounded out in the clutch.

[comhertz]

Thanks. I’ll try option 3.

Found these. Right size? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M45D6F2?starsLeft=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_D50JNQXV0VN8RC43JGFB

Also what size pin? 4mm?

[TylerR]

Thanks. I’ll try option 3.

Found these. Right size? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M45D6F2?starsLeft=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_D50JNQXV0VN8RC43JGFB

Also what size pin? 4mm?

Yes. 1/8"x1"

[comhertz]

Thanks.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
What would you say is the minimum recommended size (Amp) on the power supply when running M634JS motor ?
M634JS requires 0.3 A normal operation and approx. 1.6 A max (jams etc.).
Have a ton of old 12 VDC 2 A power supplies laying around and would be nice if they can be re-used. Feedback appreciated.
Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

[GWS]

Dear Team !
What would you say is the minimum recommended size (Amp) on the power supply when running M634JS motor ?
M634JS requires 0.3 A normal operation and approx. 1.6 A max (jams etc.).
Have a ton of old 12 VDC 2 A power supplies laying around and would be nice if they can be re-used. Feedback appreciated.
Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
///Roger

If is was mine, I'd use them. That's why Tyler created the clutch. If you get a jam, the center keeps turning, so really there is not jam, unless you set the clutch way too tight. I test my collators by sticking something in a hole to purposely jam it.....and if the center doesn't continue turning it's too tight.....loosen it.

[TylerR]

If is was mine, I'd use them. That's why Tyler created the clutch. If you get a jam, the center keeps turning, so really there is not jam, unless you set the clutch way too tight. I test my collators by sticking something in a hole to purposely jam it.....and if the center doesn't continue turning it's too tight.....loosen it.

2A is enough to run the collator.

[GWS]

2A is enough to run the collator.

I got the idea he was worried about it being too much and destructive in case of a jam. With a clutch, no chance of that.

[rogerandre]

2A is enough to run the collator.

Huge thanks TylerR and GWS
Rock Hard !

[XDrebel]

Hello All
Fairly new to metallic reloading. Have been acquiring the needed equipment and components for reloading mainly 9mm and .223/5.56 ammo. Along the way I have started doing some 3D printing to enhance the processes to allow for larger volumes brass to be processed. Originally came across this case/bullet feeder system, but opted to print a smaller version of a case feeder I found while trying to learn the ins and outs of 3D printing. Still have a lot to learn. I have not learned all I need to know about modifying a part design. I can generally start from scratch and make something different to replace a piece if it is fairly straightforward.

What I'm wondering is ? Can someone modify the Drop Tube Adapter 10 and Drop Tube Adapter 14 to fit the LEE Multi Tube Feeder Tubes. Here is a link to the Lee website giving the tube OD and ID sizes. They are Part # BF3490 & BF3489. The thru ID size is okay on the adapters, it's just the ID size that the tube slides into is to big. I made a thin wall bushing for the Drop Tube Adapter 10 to the BF3490 OD size. But after several times of sliding the tube in and out. It split between layers due to how thin it actually is.

https://leeprecision.com/parts-reloading-presses-progressive-presses-progressive-press-accessories-press-accessories-multi-tube-feeder-parts

I had printed the APP brass insert for .223 to use with the other collator. It has the correct size for the BF3490 tube to slide in with a somewhat slip fit. That is what I was hoping to do with this collator also.

Sorry for the long post. Just trying to fully explain what I was trying to accomplish. If I have just overlooked the correct Adapter, please let me know. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

[TylerR]

Hello All
Fairly new to metallic reloading. Have been acquiring the needed equipment and components for reloading mainly 9mm and .223/5.56 ammo. Along the way I have started doing some 3D printing to enhance the processes to allow for larger volumes brass to be processed. Originally came across this case/bullet feeder system, but opted to print a smaller version of a case feeder I found while trying to learn the ins and outs of 3D printing. Still have a lot to learn. I have not learned all I need to know about modifying a part design. I can generally start from scratch and make something different to replace a piece if it is fairly straightforward.

What I'm wondering is ? Can someone modify the Drop Tube Adapter 10 and Drop Tube Adapter 14 to fit the LEE Multi Tube Feeder Tubes. Here is a link to the Lee website giving the tube OD and ID sizes. They are Part # BF3490 & BF3489. The thru ID size is okay on the adapters, it's just the ID size that the tube slides into is to big. I made a thin wall bushing for the Drop Tube Adapter 10 to the BF3490 OD size. But after several times of sliding the tube in and out. It split between layers due to how thin it actually is.

https://leeprecision.com/parts-reloading-presses-progressive-presses-progressive-press-accessories-press-accessories-multi-tube-feeder-parts

I had printed the APP brass insert for .223 to use with the other collator. It has the correct size for the BF3490 tube to slide in with a somewhat slip fit. That is what I was hoping to do with this collator also.

Sorry for the long post. Just trying to fully explain what I was trying to accomplish. If I have just overlooked the correct Adapter, please let me know. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

Use the APP_Drop_Tube_Adapters here:
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/tree/main/8.%20APP

[XDrebel]

Use the APP_Drop_Tube_Adapters here:
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/tree/main/8.%20APP

Then these adapters are not made to be inserted and twist locked into the drop tube like the adapters I was wanting modified to fit the LEE tubes ?

[rogerandre]

Just a humble future enhancement request when time permits: Moving the size of the drop tube down so the number is visible when the proximity housing is in place. 325346

[M500]

Then these adapters are not made to be inserted and twist locked into the drop tube like the adapters I was wanting modified to fit the LEE tubes ?

I modified this several months ago. Is this what you are looking for?

[XDrebel]

I modified this several months ago. Is this what you are looking for?

Thank you for the reply M500. I downloaded the file and printed it. Yes this one works with the BF3489 tube which is what I use when processing 9mm cases, I was also wanting 1 that fits the BF3490 tube which is 10mm thru and the tube size is 11.3mm.

Can you tell me what software you use to do your modifications. I have only had a small amount of experience using Fusion 360 because that is one of the software's used where I work. Unfortunely the programmer that used it, is no longer there for me to get any help. But I have not had any luck using it to modify an stl file. I can figure out most of the time how to model and create basic parts from scratch. Just haven't gotten it all figured out yet.

Thanks again





o

[M500]

XD, I have been using freecad to do my modifying. I primarily use the part workbench. You can import an stl as a mesh. Then create shape from mesh, then convert to solid. Then you can run Boolean operations on it. Its not fool proof by any means. It often struggles to do radiuses or chamfers on imported stls. To many triangles for it to process. More complex files take a while to process. The file I posted earlier had a 7.3mm radius for its ID.

[XDrebel]

XD, I have been using freecad to do my modifying. I primarily use the part workbench. You can import an stl as a mesh. Then create shape from mesh, then convert to solid. Then you can run Boolean operations on it. Its not fool proof by any means. It often struggles to do radiuses or chamfers on imported stls. To many triangles for it to process. More complex files take a while to process. The file I posted earlier had a 7.3mm radius for its ID.

M500 Thanks for the info. Will look into it. My problem is I'm an old dog trying to learn to many new things all at the same time. Been a machinist for 44 yrs. The last 30 yrs as a CNC machinist. Done years of programming parts from blueprints using Mazatrol Conversational Programming. Now trying to learn to use CAD/CAM software and all the ins and outs of 3D printing has been a lot to learn. I haven't found any of the software that is as easy to use as what the Mazatrol was in my opinion.

[GWS]

M500 Thanks for the info. Will look into it. My problem is I'm an old dog trying to learn to many new things all at the same time. Been a machinist for 44 yrs. The last 30 yrs as a CNC machinist. Done years of programming parts from blueprints using Mazatrol Conversational Programming. Now trying to learn to use CAD/CAM software and all the ins and outs of 3D printing has been a lot to learn. I haven't found any of the software that is as easy to use as what the Mazatrol was in my opinion.

All depends on what you first learn on. Me it was Autocad.....but forget that unless your workplace has it. Super expensive. They all have their great, mediocre and terrible features.....too bad they can't get together a make a perfect one.....but then people are wired different and what's perfect for me won't be for you.

Since this project came about, in the interest of helping TylerR, I somewhat learned and use DSM (DesignSpark Mechanical) It was like learning Chinese.....but I get by now.....and what I do is compatible with and so helps ease the load Tyler has, if and when he wants to combine a few things.

But whatever you guys use, it can be made to work if you have the dimensions to start with. So I went to Lee Precision, got their tube dimensions, and went from there:

First off the 3489 tube is what they've been using for a long long time.....9/16" Outside Diameter (OD).

Lee says it measures .562" OD, .488" ID. (same tube I've used for years from Lee aquarium supply, called Lee Thinwall 9/16" ) That tube with 1/32" walls was 1/2" ID........so if you convert the decimals above to fractions you will get the same.

The 3490 tube Lee Precision says is .445" OD and .401 ID......that's a problem....because if that's right the walls are 1/64"!!

So that would make them 7/16" OD and 13/32" ID! Guess if you have one you could measure it.....but that's pretty flimsy tube if true.

Regular Lee Aquarium thin wall in the next smaller size has been 1/2" OD and 7/16" ID. But no more....I think they are getting some of their tubing from China now and China tubing is metric. Yes it used to be so simple....now it's a madhouse....and no guarantees the tubing telescopes into each other like they did only 2 years ago.

But with the measurements I got from L.Precision you ought to be able to add a MM to the diameter of the Adaptors and they should fit whatever you have.

But then you need them in metric.

3490 tube is 11.30mm OD / 10.185 ID. So I'd make my adapter for that 12.30mm ID for .5mm or minimum 11.8mm for .25mm over-size all around. Similarly....

3489 tube is 14.275mm OD / 12.40mm ID. For .5mm over-size all around 15.275 ID / .25mm over-size all around, 14.725mm.

Now then did you see the TylerR "clear tube adapters?" First listed....

https://i.postimg.cc/3w6VRGQ4/Cleartube-Adapter.png

Notice that they don't have funneled entrances as do his spring adapters (second picture). But you don't want funnels for what you are doing or you get offset tubes for things to hang on when the tubes fill.
https://i.postimg.cc/mkMsRwcg/Screenshot_2024-04-03_100751.png
https://i.postimg.cc/d1gYzXVf/Screenshot_2024-03-17_214244.png

Modifying the unbeveled ones are easy in DSM you just change the top and bottom hole diameters.

[XDrebel]

Took a guess at the smaller one. I don't have that tubing to test.

Thanks M500. Just Downloaded and will print when I get the chance. Have a busy schedule the next few days.

[XDrebel]

All depends on what you first learn on. Me it was Autocad.....but forget that unless your workplace has it. Super expensive. They all have their great, mediocre and terrible features.....too bad they can't get together a make a perfect one.....but then people are wired different and what's perfect for me won't be for you.

Since this project came about, in the interest of helping TylerR, I somewhat learned and use DSM (DesignSpark Mechanical) It was like learning Chinese.....but I get by now.....and what I do is compatible with and so helps ease the load Tyler has, if and when he wants to combine a few things.

But whatever you guys use, it can be made to work if you have the dimensions to start with. So I went to Lee Precision, got their tube dimensions, and went from there:

First off the 3489 tube is what they've been using for a long long time.....9/16" Outside Diameter (OD).

Lee says it measures .562" OD, .488" ID. (same tube I've used for years from Lee aquarium supply, called Lee Thinwall 9/16" ) That tube with 1/32" walls was 1/2" ID........so if you convert the decimals above to fractions you will get the same.

The 3490 tube Lee Precision says is .445" OD and .401 ID......that's a problem....because if that's right the walls are 1/64"!!

So that would make them 7/16" OD and 13/32" ID! Guess if you have one you could measure it.....but that's pretty flimsy tube if true.

Regular Lee Aquarium thin wall in the next smaller size has been 1/2" OD and 7/16" ID. But no more....I think they are getting some of their tubing from China now and China tubing is metric. Yes it used to be so simple....now it's a madhouse....and no guarantees the tubing telescopes into each other like they did only 2 years ago.

But with the measurements I got from L.Precision you ought to be able to add a MM to the diameter of the Adaptors and they should fit whatever you have.

But then you need them in metric.

3490 tube is 11.30mm OD / 10.185 ID. So I'd make my adapter for that 12.30mm ID for .5mm or minimum 11.8mm for .25mm over-size all around. Similarly....

3489 tube is 14.275mm OD / 12.40mm ID. For .5mm over-size all around 15.275 ID / .25mm over-size all around, 14.725mm.

Now then did you see the TylerR "clear tube adapters?" First listed....

https://i.postimg.cc/3w6VRGQ4/Cleartube-Adapter.png

Notice that they don't have funneled entrances as do his spring adapters (second picture). But you don't want funnels for what you are doing or you get "shelves" for things to hang on when the tubes fill.
https://i.postimg.cc/mkMsRwcg/Screenshot_2024-04-03_100751.png
https://i.postimg.cc/d1gYzXVf/Screenshot_2024-03-17_214244.png

Modifying the unbeveled ones are easy in DSM you just change the top and bottom hole diameters.

GWS the Clear tube adapters were originally the ones I printed and was wondering if someone could just modify to fit the Lee tubes. I have not figured out the process of loading up the stl and getting it converted back to a solid to be able to modify it. I'm going to try the ones M500 did.

[TylerR]

GWS the Clear tube adapters were originally the ones I printed and was wondering if someone could just modify to fit the Lee tubes. I have not figured out the process of loading up the stl and getting it converted back to a solid to be able to modify it. I'm going to try the ones M500 did.

Give me till tomorrow. I will post something.

[M500]

Thanks M500. Just Downloaded and will print when I get the chance. Have a busy schedule the next few days.

I realized I miscalculated on that last one I posted. Try this one instead. It should be close. Not sure what you are doing, weather you need the beveled entry or not.

[TylerR]

Go to Adapters folder on github and check out the Lee_Tube_Adapters.

[XDrebel]

Go to Adapters folder on github and check out the Lee_Tube_Adapters.

Thank you TylerR. I downloaded files. Will check them out. Not sure about getting it done this weekend. Have youngest granddaughter's birthday party Sunday afternoon. Saturday is taken up with outside chores of grass mowing and tree cutting, splitting and limb hauling.

[GWS]

Not knowing exactly how they will be used, you may or may not have jams when stacked with the beveled top ones TylerR modified.....You said you printed the "Clear tube adapters" which have straight inlets not tapered, so being tapered, sometimes a stack with too much angle possibility will cause a case to go angled, then the next base jams between it and the tube or under the overhead offset if present.

Such is not a problem if you are just dropping cases directly into this "Lee Tube Adapter" But these have a twist lock on top insinuating that it connects to other parts above it. It's been my experience that if other parts go above it (excepting where a collator drops it straight in....electric or a Lee style shaker, then a straight line adapter without any "offsets would work better.

So if it works good, fine, if it jams let us know......can be fixed pretty easy to straight line like the original tube adapters.

These are the straight entrance versions.....the end where the twistlock is, the hole is the same diameter as the Lee tubing I.D.

https://i.postimg.cc/6p25K0hs/10.png This is the 10mm version.

Next picture is the 14mm version but showing the end where the Lee tube goes in, which is .50mm bigger than that bigger Lee Tubing O.D. Ditto for the 10mm version, that hole is likewise .50mm bigger dia. than the smaller Lee Tubing. Again the other end is also the same I.D. as the larger Lee tubing I.D.

I chose to round the offset inside so that the printer will bring those well with the wider finger grips down on the bed. I don't think the minuscule void between tubing and adapter will matter....and it will print cleaner on my printer.

https://i.postimg.cc/L8c481yJ/14.png

[TylerR]

Thank you TylerR. I downloaded files. Will check them out. Not sure about getting it done this weekend. Have youngest granddaughter's birthday party Sunday afternoon. Saturday is taken up with outside chores of grass mowing and tree cutting, splitting and limb hauling.

Nice. I have been snowblowing all day here.

[TylerR]

Not knowing exactly how they will be used, you may or may not have jams when stacked with the beveled top ones TylerR modified.....You said you printed the "Clear tube adapters" which have straight inlets not tapered, so being tapered, sometimes a stack with too much angle possibility will cause a case to go angled the the next base jams between it and the tube or under the overhead offset if there.

Such is not a problem if you are just dropping cases directly into this "Lee Tube Adapter" But these have a twist lock on top insinuating that it connects to other parts above it. It's been my experience that if other parts go above it (excepting where a collator drops it straight in....electric or a Lee style shaker, then a straight line adapter without any "offsets would work better.

So if it works good, fine, if it jams let us know......can be fixed pretty easy to straight line like the original tube adapters

I had the same question. If he is running a tube straight from the collator then the cone entry is the only answer for the top adapter. Otherwise it has to be some kind of offset adapter.

[GWS]

Or make .stls of the straight wall versions......

Like these if I did it right. :) just a little worried other printers might not allow the Lee tubes to slip in with only .5mm over diameter. Mines does when printed at layer height of .12mm. So now you have two choices tapered hole or straight. Let us know how it all works out.

[M500]

Here is another file you might be interested in. It is cut down from one of the proximity drop tubes. Slips over the LEE tubing. Slide it up and down to where you want. Haven't tested it yet, but think it should work.

[TylerR]

Or make .stls of the straight wall versions......

Like these if I did it right. :) just a little worried other printers might not allow the Lee tubes to slip in with only .5mm over diameter. Mines does when printed at layer height of .12mm. So now you have two choices tapered hole or straight. Let us know how it all works out.

Not sure I am following GWS, could be because I am slow. The drop hole on the collator body is 16mm dia. If you attach the top adapter, it is going to go from a 16mm hole directly to a 10mm or 14mm hole. The only thing those top adapters can be used for is to twist in to the collator body.

[GWS]

Not sure I am following GWS, could be because I am slow. The drop hole on the collator body is 16mm dia. If you attach the top adapter, it is going to go from a 16mm hole directly to a 10mm or 14mm hole. The only thing those top adapters can be used for is to twist in to the collator body.

You're not slow. But I'm obviously forgetful. I forgot you and most of your followers are not old school like me, and don't mount the prox switch directly below the collator or nearly so, sometimes with an inch spacer between for longer cases. Instead you mount the prox near the bottom.......So I should just back off and let you guys work this out!! ;) Apples don't mix with oranges! But I should explain why I said what I did in the posts above:

Your B2 Drop_Tube Alt_X, the short one, starts with a funnel on top is designed to receive cases directly from the Brass_X_Drop_Hole_Adapter mounted to the collator's slide plate.....its MADE to work there and works great. It comes in various sizes because the MIDDLE & BOTTOM of that Drop tube is sized to just allow your chosen case to fall and remain close to the sensor......so then the bottom is that minimum diameter. And that's where the top Tube Adapters that I posted twist lock into the bottom of the Drop Tube and into which you push a Lee clear tube into.......and that's NOT a spot I want a funnel.

Then at the bottom of the clear tube, I use various parts to tie it to a particular press.....and not necessarily the bottom companion part of the adapter set......quite often I telescope smaller clear tubes until I can go directly into an APP insert, or a SixPack insert.....but that's another story. For now the bottom adapter can twist lock into couplers, or other parts to fit your needs.

The following picture shows how my case collators drop cases using a prox switch. The bottom part is the clear adaptor top I.D is made the same I.D. as the bottom of the chosen drop tube size....bottom I.D. is made .50mm larger than the clear tube O.D. Hope that clears up my divergent side of things.:)

https://i.postimg.cc/LXMNpCGY/Screenshot-2024-02-04-131006.pngSlide_Plate, Brass Drop_Hole_Adapter, spacer, downtube, Tube adapter.

That black spacer between the black collator outlet and the green downtube is wide holed so as not to interfere.....that it was even necessary, was because when a case stops the motor the last case to drop above it caused problems being half in and half dropped.

Video below is old and I no longer use my old Proximity Tee, which was a drop tube/prox housing in one piece.....TylerR figured out a better way and I prefer his design now, but the bottom Tube Adapter is the same, since my Tee exited at the same diameter as the Adapter does, as does TylerR's short downtube in that hole size...so same outcome with older parts. Sooo added a few .223, collates to tube fill, and stops, cases still left up there.....then stroked the press a few times, cases autofeed until empty....as shown....I think that's the goal....


https://youtu.be/OEnDlvP7HeM

So having explained and maybe clarified, maybe confused more, I will leave this to you guys.....no more interruptions....;)

[TylerR]

You're not slow. But I'm obviously forgetful. I forgot you and most of your followers are not old school like me, and don't mount the prox switch directly below the collator or nearly so, sometimes with an inch spacer between for longer cases. Instead you mount the prox near the bottom.......So I should just back off and let you guys work this out!! ;) Apples don't mix with oranges! But I should explain why I said what I did in the posts above:

Your B2 Drop_Tube Alt_X, the short one, starts with a funnel on top is designed to receive cases directly from the Brass_X_Drop_Hole_Adapter mounted to the collator's slide plate.....its MADE to work there and works great. It comes in various sizes because the MIDDLE & BOTTOM of that Drop tube is sized to just allow your chosen case to fall and remain close to the sensor......so then the bottom is that minimum diameter. And that's where the top Tube Adapters that I posted twist lock into the bottom of the Drop Tube and into which you push a Lee clear tube into.......and that's NOT a spot I want a funnel.

Then at the bottom of the clear tube, I use various parts to tie it to a particular press.....and not necessarily the bottom companion part of the adapter set......quite often I telescope smaller clear tubes until I can go directly into an APP insert, or a SixPack insert.....but that's another story. For now the bottom adapter can twist lock into couplers, or other parts to fit your needs.

The following picture shows how my case collators drop cases using a prox switch. The bottom part is the clear adaptor top I.D is made the same I.D. as the bottom of the chosen drop tube size....bottom I.D. is made .50mm larger than the clear tube O.D. Hope that clears up my divergent side of things.:)

Slide_Plate, Brass Drop_Hole_Adapter, spacer, downtube, Tube adapter.

That black spacer between the black collator outlet and the green downtube is wide holed so as not to interfere.....that it was even necessary, was because when a case stops the motor the last case to drop above it caused problems being half in and half dropped.

Video below is old and I no longer use my old Proximity Tee, which was a drop tube/prox housing in one piece.....TylerR figured out a better way and I prefer his design now, but the bottom Tube Adapter is the same, since my Tee exited at the same diameter as the Adapter does, as does TylerR's short downtube in that hole size...so same outcome with older parts. Sooo added a few .223, collates to tube fill, and stops, cases still left up there.....then stroked the press a few times, cases autofeed until empty....as shown....I think that's the goal....

So having explained and maybe clarified, maybe confused more, I will leave this to you guys.....no more interruptions....;)

See, I knew you would set me straight. The config makes sense, and could be used with stock parts, minus the spacer you are using. I added both the funnel and straight wall versions to github.

Edit: I added a short and long spacer as well, since I can see that being needed for longer cases.

[GWS]

See, I knew you would set me straight. The config makes sense, and could be used with stock parts, minus the spacer you are using. I added both the funnel and straight wall versions to github.

Edit: I added a short and long spacer as well, since I can see that being needed for longer cases.

Short and long spacer? Didn't see that....in the Down Tube section? Bet you are a bit tired of adding new parts......wow! Everybody's got a new wrinkle......

Now lets start a new thread on reloading for howitzers. May need it for Putin's war. Oh! Need much bigger 3D printers too.... ;)

[XDrebel]

TylerR or GWS

Was going to try and start a print on some of the other pieces I haven't tried to print yet. Loaded up the Drop_Tube_Alt_10mm in Cura and it gave me an error message stating the model isn't watertight and may not print correctly. I got to looking and found where it was. It's below and to the left of the numbers for the size. I tried to use Cura's tool to fix and it stated it couldn't. I also checked and the other sizes seem to have the same thing. Wasn't sure if you were aware of this issue and how much problem it will create when printing.

I was going to try to upload an image of the screen, but I can not get it to work.

[GWS]

My IdeaMaker slicer repaired it.....try this one.

325474

DesignSpark isn't perfect, but so far its .stl renditions have been repairable with IdeaMaker with just their "Autorepair." One click. Maybe worthwhile to download IdeaMaker just to fix DSM .stl renditions....;) I've found it easier to do that than to find and fix glitches in the source file in DesignSpark.

But warning: use your slicer to turn the model upside down for the best print.

[XDrebel]

My IdeaMaker slicer repaired it.....try this one.

325474

GWS that's not the newer version with the Photoswitch and LED Knob ports in it listed in the Drop Tube Files for BFF Feeder V1.4.6.5

Here is the link to files on github. Was not listed this way when I downloaded all file to my computer, sorry for the confusion.


6. Drop Tubes/Drop_Tube_Alt_Light_10mm.stl

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/f4851389ac97fc089a28be31e6633d0ee18e6ed7/6.%20Drop%20Tubes/Drop_Tube_Alt_Light_10mm.stl

[TylerR]

Short and long spacer? Didn't see that....in the Down Tube section? Bet you are a bit tired of adding new parts......wow! Everybody's got a new wrinkle......

Now lets start a new thread on reloading for howitzers. May need it for Putin's war. Oh! Need much bigger 3D printers too.... ;)

Honestly couldn't decide on where to put them. They ended up in the Main Body folder since that is where the drop hole adapters are, and the spacers are an extension to that. They could also go in the Drop Tube folder or Adapters folder.

[TylerR]

GWS that's not the newer version with the Photoswitch and LED Knob ports in it listed in the Drop Tube Files for BFF Feeder V1.4.6.5

Don't worry about the Cura error. Yes there are some files that give that but they print just fine.

The file GWS posted is actually the latest (short) version.

I would also recommend you grab the absolute latest version of the files by using the method described in the readme. To download click the green "Code" button, then click "Download Zip".

[TylerR]

FYI I renamed the entire Drop Tube's folder today. The versions designed for prox are the official latest version. They are now just labeled with the original file names. Drop_Tube_X and Drop_Tube_Alt_X. Everything else is legacy at this point and they have have been tagged with "Orig" at the end. Since I took the time to also make the light sensor versions of the Alt tubes, I kept them in there and tagged them with "Light". Just a little house keeping. As GWS said, the options are getting voluminous at this point.

[XDrebel]

TylerR thanks for explaining that. I thought it was me . The files I had downloaded didn't have the light designation in the file name. Thats the one I need to print because I purchased all the hardware initially for that. I just seen the name change a little bit ago when I went back into GitHub.

[GWS]

This video shows why it's best to print it upside down.....the twist connector prints perfect that way. But I heat my bed to 65C to make sure it sticks.

As for printing "anyway" Cura may.....but IdeaMaker requires you "repair" first.....doesn't have the option to print anyway. ;)

And yes the one I just posted is the latest version downloaded by "code" 15 minutes ago. The part printing in the video is old and was doctored. So now my files are updated again....for the hundredth time :) Bet TylerR had no idea what a life's work this would turn out to be.


https://youtu.be/Xa-u8q47PE0?si=kMypaojcuPQBV2lj

Honestly couldn't decide on where to put them. They ended up in the Main Body folder since that is where the drop hole adapters are, and the spacers are an extension to that. They could also go in the Drop Tube folder or Adapters folder.

I was wondering....didn't even think to look for them there....and now I know (remember) where to find the drop hole adaptors, too. :)

[XDrebel]

Yes Sir I agree printing it in upside down will probably work better. It just dropped the other way when I opened ii and gave me the error message. I've rotated to try and print.

[GWS]

FYI I renamed the entire Drop Tube's folder today. The versions designed for prox are the official latest version. They are now just labeled with the original file names. Drop_Tube_X and Drop_Tube_Alt_X. Everything else is legacy at this point and they have have been tagged with "Orig" at the end. Since I took the time to also make the light sensor versions of the Alt tubes, I kept them in there and tagged them with "Light". Just a little house keeping. As GWS said, the options are getting voluminous at this point.

I hope "Orig" doesn't make it worse. New folks too often get committed, like XDrebel did, buying the other options (which are more fidgety to use) then you are stuck with supporting 3 times the parts. Maybe "Legacy" would be a better word to get your point across.

Or what if you could only have the latest tools/parts in the main section, and add another "Legacy Parts" section for the folks who already committed to other sensors.

Just thinking that would lessen the confusing choices new folks have tying to decide what to buy. Proximity Switches are just so much simpler and adjustment-free....thanks to your drop-on housing design, and size options on the downtubes.

[TylerR]

I hope "Orig" doesn't make it worse. New folks too often get committed, like XDrebel did, buying the other options (which are more fidgety to use) then you are stuck with supporting 3 times the parts. Maybe "Legacy" would be a better word to get your point across.

Or what if you could only have the latest tools/parts in the main section, and add another "Legacy Parts" section for the folks who already committed to other sensors.

Just thinking that would lessen the confusing choices new folks have tying to decide what to buy. Proximity Switches are just so much simpler and adjustment-free....thanks to your drop-on housing design, and size options on the downtubes.

All very good points. I had considered using "Legacy" as well, and since you just threw it out there I will go with it. I think I will avoid moving them out of the folder for now, but very well might down the road.

Edit: Actually you know what, I am going to move them. Heck with it.

[GWS]

Wish I had our manual writer's skills....the manual could be streamlined too for the same reasons......I don't even know what software he used. So I'm not much help.

[TylerR]

Wish I had our manual writer's skills....the manual could be streamlined too for the same reasons......I don't even know what software he used. So I'm not much help.

It is just in MS Word. I have it and do make tweaks from time to time.

[GWS]

It is just in MS Word. I have it and do make tweaks from time to time. That's a relief, good.....I thought he had some special software like Publisher which I haven't even seen in years......which I used once writing a newsletter for our local gun club.....but then old age comes.....;)

[TylerR]

That's a relief, good.....I thought he had some special software like Publisher which I haven't even seen in years......which I used once writing a newsletter for our local gun club.....but then old age comes.....;)

If you have any change suggestions feel free to email me. I don't want to re-write the thing but I am always open to tweaks here and there.

[noacess]

I pre-ordered this printer and then proceeded to wait over two years for this to happen. Glad I finally made it :)


325522

[rogerandre]

You have three options to choose from:

-Drive a pin directly thru the motor shaft.
-Use a hex adapter
-Use a hex adapter with a pin

Most people go with option two.
I use the last option. You can drive a pin thru the brass adapter easily, and the pin eliminates the possibility that the hex gets rounded out in the clutch.

With hex pin support, by drilling a hole in the shaft of the motor ?

[XDrebel]

Getting close to being done with this one hopefully. Have to finalize the wiring to motor and proxy switch.
Need to swap the APP Press onto the base and the Inline Fabrication Quick Change Mount to see if I got the location right and check the height of the mounting tube I actually need so it will work with the LEE Clear Plastic Feed Tubes.

This has been a fun and challenging project from the start. Thank you to those that helped along the way. I soon realized that me being slightly OCD about part fitment, it led me to designing some custom parts to achieve what I wanted to achieve. I hope TylerR and others who have worked on this project feel I have added to this projects possibilities.

The other photo is the current collator I had originally started with that is somewhat smaller that I had done basically the same with. I wanted it to be dedicated to the press I was using, but able to changed attachments for caliber I was processing.



325686

325687

325685

[RedBarachetta]

Can those files be downloaded?

[XDrebel]

Can those files be downloaded?

RedBarachetta they are not available yet. I'm making some changes I needed to make after I actually put it onto the InLineFabrication Quick Change mounting plate. There are a couple of ways that the one issue I had can be eliminated depending on personal preference. Give me a few days and I will try to get everything finished up and I will try to post some better images of the final design I game up with.

I will also need to be get all the final versions of the stl files gathered together to be sure I send the right ones. I will get in touch with TylerR and let him make them available through the Contributors file if he decides to do it that way. I will also be glad to answer any questions they may arise. I used Fusion 360 to do all my parts modeling and will also down the road make the original Fusion 360 file available if someone needs it to make changes.

[TylerR]

RedBarachetta they are not available yet. I'm making some changes I needed to make after I actually put it onto the InLineFabrication Quick Change mounting plate. There are a couple of ways that the one issue I had can be eliminated depending on personal preference. Give me a few days and I will try to get everything finished up and I will try to post some better images of the final design I game up with.

I will also need to be get all the final versions of the stl files gathered together to be sure I send the right ones. I will get in touch with TylerR and let him make them available through the Contributors file if he decides to do it that way. I will also be glad to answer any questions they may arise. I used Fusion 360 to do all my parts modeling and will also down the road make the original Fusion 360 file available if someone needs it to make changes.

I am definitely willing to add. I looked at you pics but not exactly sure what you have going on. looks like a square tube mount that can adjust height?

[XDrebel]

I am definitely willing to add. I looked at you pics but not exactly sure what you have going on. looks like a square tube mount that can adjust height?

TylerR here are a couple of better pics . As you can see in the 1st pic, the APP and the Collator are now one unit mounted on the InLine Fabrication Quick Change Plate. The 2nd pic is it mounted in the Quick Change Base. Hopefully these are better than the others. I had to download a photo image resizer and I didn't have the right options picked to keep the ratio the same when resized.

Also it is setup to allow the Lower Sliding Clamp to be loosened and the Collator raised to remove and change out the Lee Clear Rigid Tube say from the 10mm used on .223 to the 13mm to run 9mm. The Sliding Clamp Lock Ring Holds the height that has been preset. Beings the tubes are the same length, once the tube and APP insert are swapped and installed in the App Main Bracket. The Lee Tube Adapter is then swapped out in the Drop Tube and your ready to rotate back around and raise enough to re-align the Lee Tube and then lower into position and tighten the Lower Sliding Clamp Unit back in place.


325772 325773


I hope that explains it a little better. I know this setup isnt for everyone. But those of us with limited room and swap out the presses we use, I believe it's handy. Also beings I do larger quantities of case prep at times. I usually do the de-priming and primer pocket swaging on the APP. When I'm done or want to change over to one of my other presses to do sizing, etc, it is simple to do and it gets it all out of the way or put back in place.

I have made changes to a couple pieces. So I'm in the process of printing them again. Also making a hardware list of the bolt sizes used. So it will still be a few days before I have everything finalized to send it to you to look over.

Right now everything is made using a 1 inch round piece of tubing.

[RedBarachetta]

It was the base plate that first caught my eye. I recently broke my square post base plate and need to print a new one anyway.

[XDrebel]

This base uses 1in. round but shouldn't be a problem to convert to a square post. It is designed to mount between the APP press and the InLine Fabrication Quick Change plate. There is also a bin hanger mount on the right side that I stopped using due to me processing larger quantities at a time. But I left it in the design.

[tdogg]

First off, I'd like to thank everyone again for the effort and detail put into this project. It truely is really amazing what is shared here. Thank you!

I've printed two bullet collators and have made the switch (pun intended) to the proximity sensor bullet feeding dies. The proximity sensor is really superior to the micro switch and has dramatically reduced feeding issues due to stuck bullets on the micro switch.

I had the fortune recently to pick up a Rollsizer automatic decapper and need a case collator to feed it. I plan on decapping prior to any cleaning and want a "dirty" collator dedicated to the decapper. I've been feeding it with my Dillon 2-speed case feeder on the S1050 but it cannot keep up. Even at the slowest speed on the decapper, it is running ~2000 cases per hour and the Dillon can't do that apparently.

This brings me to my questions. I was looking at printing a Mongo brass collator and was wondering with the M634JS motor how fast will it feed cases? Would I be better off getting the ETZGMP38 motor? The P38 motor lists a speed of 30rpm and I could get a M634JS with 30 rpm but that would reduce the torque considerably. With the 10rpm M634JS motor can I expect to feed at least 3000 cases per hour?

In order to print the Mongo collator I will have to purchase a new larger printer. I've been looking to upgrade and was originally looking at the Ender 5 Plus but have since moved on to the Elegoo Neptune 4 max or possibly the 3 max. I like the concept of a cube frame printer from a design standpoint but the bed size and features on the Elegoo are hard to overlook for the price. What printers are you running to print Mongo collators? Any suggestions for large bed printer?

Thanks again in advance for any thoughts.

Cheers,
Toby

[TylerR]

First off, I'd like to thank everyone again for the effort and detail put into this project. It truely is really amazing what is shared here. Thank you!

I've printed two bullet collators and have made the switch (pun intended) to the proximity sensor bullet feeding dies. The proximity sensor is really superior to the micro switch and has dramatically reduced feeding issues due to stuck bullets on the micro switch.

I had the fortune recently to pick up a Rollsizer automatic decapper and need a case collator to feed it. I plan on decapping prior to any cleaning and want a "dirty" collator dedicated to the decapper. I've been feeding it with my Dillon 2-speed case feeder on the S1050 but it cannot keep up. Even at the slowest speed on the decapper, it is running ~2000 cases per hour and the Dillon can't do that apparently.

This brings me to my questions. I was looking at printing a Mongo brass collator and was wondering with the M634JS motor how fast will it feed cases? Would I be better off getting the ETZGMP38 motor? The P38 motor lists a speed of 30rpm and I could get a M634JS with 30 rpm but that would reduce the torque considerably. With the 10rpm M634JS motor can I expect to feed at least 3000 cases per hour?

In order to print the Mongo collator I will have to purchase a new larger printer. I've been looking to upgrade and was originally looking at the Ender 5 Plus but have since moved on to the Elegoo Neptune 4 max or possibly the 3 max. I like the concept of a cube frame printer from a design standpoint but the bed size and features on the Elegoo are hard to overlook for the price. What printers are you running to print Mongo collators? Any suggestions for large bed printer?

Thanks again in advance for any thoughts.

Cheers,
Toby

Welcome to the party!

You did not mention what brass you are looking to feed, but I don't think it matters. Short answer it 10rpm should be plenty to get to 3k/hr. For example, if you were looking to feed large caliber pistol, and ran the motor at half speed, you could reliably feed 3600 in an hour. There are 24 holes in the plate. Let's say only half filled up which is very low. 5rpm*60min = 300 rotations/hour. 300*12slots = 3600 feeds.

I have an Ender 5 Plus, but there are better options. As an example, here is a corexy printer for the same price as the 5plus. I do not own this printer but there is a fair amount of hype around it for being a large corexy printer in that price point.
https://www.sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv08-3d-printer?variant=48547571368245

[calgarysparky]

My 08 arrives beginning of June. Will round out my print farm. Only have 1 slinger left, dedicated to printing CF filaments.

[TylerR]

My 08 arrives beginning of June. Will round out my print farm. Only have 1 slinger left, dedicated to printing CF filaments.

Would love to hear what you think about it.

[calgarysparky]

Would love to hear what you think about it.

I will. Lots of mods already due to the step file being out. At this time I can only see 2 items that would make the printer better, a slimmer front shroud and a relocate of the spool holder.

[TylerR]

I will. Lots of mods already due to the step file being out. At this time I can only see 2 items that would make the printer better, a slimmer front shroud and a relocate of the spool holder.

Did you get the enclosure panels?

[calgarysparky]

Did you get the enclosure panels?

No, at $170 USD I can have acrylic panels cut cheaper and they will be clear vs their aluminum ones.

[TylerR]

No, at $170 USD I can have acrylic panels cut cheaper and they will be clear vs their aluminum ones.

On the link i sent it shows $120, but makes sense If you already have it and they want to charge $170 for adding them. I didn't notice the side plates were aluminum till you said it.

[tdogg]

Yep, that checks all my marks for a new printer: high temp for nylon, enclosure, coreXY, large, and fast. Thanks! I'm probably going to order it. Wish I got in on the intro offer but it still is way cheaper than a Prusa. I'm interested in shooting a larger nozzle to see how fast I can print.

I sell processed brass I pick up as an RO at major matches. I generally pick up ~5g bucket per match and it just helps offset shooting costs. It generally is mostly 9mm but I pick it all up (40S&W, 45ACP, 38 SC, etc...). I wet tumble, roll size, and now decap!

Cheers,
Toby

[Jdkenned360]

Hey everyone, I've been lurking for a couple months and just want to say how much I appreciate all the work put into this. I've completed 2 collators for the most part. Just working on plumbing them into the press.

I haven't come across any proximity sensor placement for a case feed down at by the press similar to the drop tube setup for bullets. Seems like most put it up on the main body of the collator, usually I'd go that route but I went with time delay that Kausit came up with so having it down low would give room to fill the tube with the time delay. I'm using a lee 6000 press, I may have to dip my toes into Fusion 360 to come up with a mount for the proximity sensor. Just wondering if anyone has done this yet and I just missed it.

Again this thread has been amazing to read through! Got me into the 3d printing world while making reloading even more fun.

[TylerR]

Hey everyone, I've been lurking for a couple months and just want to say how much I appreciate all the work put into this. I've completed 2 collators for the most part. Just working on plumbing them into the press.

I haven't come across any proximity sensor placement for a case feed down at by the press similar to the drop tube setup for bullets. Seems like most put it up on the main body of the collator, usually I'd go that route but I went with time delay that Kausit came up with so having it down low would give room to fill the tube with the time delay. I'm using a lee 6000 press, I may have to dip my toes into Fusion 360 to come up with a mount for the proximity sensor. Just wondering if anyone has done this yet and I just missed it.

Again this thread has been amazing to read through! Got me into the 3d printing world while making reloading even more fun.

That is how I run my case feeder. regular drop tube, with the Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter that goes to the dillon case adapters.

[calgarysparky]

Yep, that checks all my marks for a new printer: high temp for nylon, enclosure, coreXY, large, and fast. Thanks! I'm probably going to order it. Wish I got in on the intro offer but it still is way cheaper than a Prusa. I'm interested in shooting a larger nozzle to see how fast I can print.

I sell processed brass I pick up as an RO at major matches. I generally pick up ~5g bucket per match and it just helps offset shooting costs. It generally is mostly 9mm but I pick it all up (40S&W, 45ACP, 38 SC, etc...). I wet tumble, roll size, and now decap!

Cheers,
Toby

I got in at the very beginning, they had a slight whoops and there was an extra $50 off. Paid $449 for mine. Can never go wrong at that price. I've been running sovol printers for 2 years now and you just can't beat the bang for the buck. And I haven't had any issues with them.

[HuskJ]

Toby, let me know which motor you decide to go with because I am doing the exact same thing right now. Printing a Mongo for case feeding for .45acp into my decapper and then I'd like a clean version for my roll sizer.

[TylerR]

XDrebel's inline fab mount is in contributors folder.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/9.%20Contributors/XDrebel_APP_InLineFAB_QC_Mount.zip

[XDrebel]

XDrebel's inline fab mount is in contributors folder.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/9.%20Contributors/XDrebel_APP_InLineFAB_QC_Mount.zipThank you TylerR

After getting away from the tunnel vision of concentrating on this being used with the InLine Fabrication QC plate, I realized that this could actually be used with the APP mounted directly to the bench. If someone would want to use it that way and feels they want to add some mounting holes to it for more support and needs the original Fusion 360 file, just let me know.

Sent from my SM-S918U1 using Tapatalk

[HuskJ]

I pre-ordered this printer and then proceeded to wait over two years for this to happen. Glad I finally made it :)


325522

Looks Awesome!

[Brandos-98]

To start off, Thank You to everyone who has contributed!

I found this years ago before the shift to Github. Ended up rediscovering this thread last month.

I got around to printing one up this week and I am happily impressed! 27 hours, 1kg, and a lot more time reviewing the manual I have all my components to build this.

My question is- has anyone found a good way to mount this on the Frankford Arsenal x-10? Looking for ideas before I overcomplicate things!

[TylerR]

To start off, Thank You to everyone who has contributed!

I found this years ago before the shift to Github. Ended up rediscovering this thread last month.

I got around to printing one up this week and I am happily impressed! 27 hours, 1kg, and a lot more time reviewing the manual I have all my components to build this.

My question is- has anyone found a good way to mount this on the Frankford Arsenal x-10? Looking for ideas before I overcomplicate things!

1" round post mounted from the bench. There is a stl for the bench mount. then you just need a 1" round piece of aluminum / steel / or even a wood dowel. To be clear it needs to be 1" OD.

[GWS]

Welcome to the extremely fun money saving madness!:)

[doublemike]

I'm trying to get the Feed_Die_45_Body to print on a Bambu P1S.
The 9mm version worked flawlessly same for all other parts. However for the 45 Feed die I can't make it to work.
Each time at the part where the walls are thin for the ball bearings it breaks. First 3 tries it broke while printing. Last attempt it broke when I "touched" it.
Anyone else successful printing this and with what settings/filament?

I'm using PLA.

EDIT: I followed what's in the pdf for layer height/infill. Tried with a higher value and the same.

[TylerR]

I'm trying to get the Feed_Die_45_Body to print on a Bambu P1S.
The 9mm version worked flawlessly same for all other parts. However for the 45 Feed die I can't make it to work.
Each time at the part where the walls are thin for the ball bearings it breaks. First 3 tries it broke while printing. Last attempt it broke when I "touched" it.
Anyone else successful printing this and with what settings/filament?

I'm using PLA.

It's your slicer settings. You have to set it to allow thin walls. The wall is .425mm thick there.

[doublemike]

It's your slicer settings. You have to set it to allow thin walls. The wall is .425mm thick there.

What setting specifically do I need to change for this in Bambu Studio?

[TylerR]

What setting specifically do I need to change for this in Bambu Studio?

I don't use that slicer so I don't know. This question does come up a lot. I am not sure why these slicers don't print thin walls by default. I have never had an issue with cura.

[GWS]

What setting specifically do I need to change for this in Bambu Studio?

If you can't figure it out get another Slicer......TylerR says Cura works fine.......for me IdeaMaker works fine. Look for a menu that has "thin-wall" options.....

IdeaMaker's is in the "Other" menu. Looks like this:

https://i.postimg.cc/MZ5Jx8fs/Screenshot-2024-05-05-163831.png

Also make SURE your printer is TUNED! That is, when the model is supposed to print .425 it really does. I think a good way to determine that is to print a cube 10 mm square and measure it with exactness.....calipers?

TylerR may have even a better way......:)

[HuskJ]

Help Request, in the past I have always used the micro switch option with the Cherry d42x for the micro switch. I wanted to jump on board the proximity sensor as that seems to be the leader these days and I can't find any more of those micro switches anymore. So, I ordered the sensor, the relay, the switch controller and switch and printed the drop tube system for 45ACP brass as well as 45 ACP boolits. I wired it all up (best I could) following the directions. I got some separate wire to wire the multiples together with a wiring nut etc. Plugged in the power and motor runs, speed controller works adjusting the speed and light is on the sensor. Thought everything was great until I loaded the drop tube with brass and once it was past the sensor the motor didn't turn off. Two questions, 1 any idea what could be causing this? Second, any tricks to wiring you all use to wire to the switch as well as to the relay? Are you soldering it or using wire quick connects? I'll solve the second question I guess once I figure out why the sensor isn't activating the motor on / off once the drop tube is full. Thank you and apologies in advance if this is a dumb question but trying to figure it out for a chunk of time today and thought I'd ask the experts. I even tried taking the sensor out of the drop tube and putting my thumb finger over it and still didn't stop motor. Thank you!.



up326309

[GWS]

Your sensor doesn't look like what I have.....so I think you need to give us more info as to exactly which sensor you bought.

As far as wiring, the following picture is how I wired mine:

https://i.postimg.cc/L8b0JmVH/Wiring-Diagram-for-GWS-combo-box.png

The sensor need to be a 3 wire lead normally closed (NC) inductive proximity sensor with a minimum detection range of 8mm

Yours looks like a two wire sensor.....have no idea what it is.

[doublemike]

If you can't figure it out get another Slicer......TylerR says Cura works fine.......for me IdeaMaker works fine. Look for a menu that has "thin-wall" options.....

IdeaMaker's is in the "Other" menu. Looks like this:

https://i.postimg.cc/MZ5Jx8fs/Screenshot-2024-05-05-163831.png

Also make SURE your printer is TUNED! That is, when the model is supposed to print .425 it really does. I think a good way to determine that is to print a cube 10 mm square and measure it with exactness.....calipers?

TylerR may have even a better way......:)

I have installed both Cura and IdeaMaker. None of these have profiles for Bambu P1S. (or any other Bambu printer :( )

[doublemike]

I have the 634JS. The shaft is D-shaped. It's unclear to me how I would connect the shaft with the collator plate. Afais it will just spin independent from the collator plate. What am I missing?
Using the bf556 github repository.

[calgarysparky]

I have installed both Cura and IdeaMaker. None of these have profiles for Bambu P1S. (or any other Bambu printer :( )

May want to hit up some bambu groups on FB to find the setting you need. Don't think many of us have Bambu machines.

[TylerR]

I have installed both Cura and IdeaMaker. None of these have profiles for Bambu P1S. (or any other Bambu printer :( )

Quick google and tons of links. One even from a member here. This one seems to cover it. "Detect Thin Walls"
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/wall-generator

[TylerR]

I have the 634JS. The shaft is D-shaped. It's unclear to me how I would connect the shaft with the collator plate. Afais it will just spin independent from the collator plate. What am I missing?
Using the bf556 github repository.

This came up a few pages back. Here is my response.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5706755&viewfull=1#post5706755

[HuskJ]

Your sensor doesn't look like what I have.....so I think you need to give us more info as to exactly which sensor you bought.

As far as wiring, the following picture is how I wired mine:

https://i.postimg.cc/L8b0JmVH/Wiring-Diagram-for-GWS-combo-box.png

The sensor need to be a 3 wire lead normally closed (NC) inductive proximity sensor with a minimum detection range of 8mm

Yours looks like a two wire sensor.....have no idea what it is.

Sensor is three wire, and is the one from the manual off eBay. Only difference in the wire diagram above you have is your switch has 2 connectors and mine has 3 which is the one from the manual as well. I wired it exactly as the wiring diagram in the images folder and manual. I will try another relay and another sensor as I ordered 3 of them but just didn't know if was sensor or relay side that would cause it not to turn off. Assumed it was Sensor side.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333737317263

[TylerR]

Sensor is three wire, and is the one from the manual off eBay. Only difference in the wire diagram above you have is your switch has 2 connectors and mine has 3 which is the one from the manual as well. I wired it exactly as the wiring diagram in the images folder and manual. I will try another relay and another sensor as I ordered 3 of them but just didn't know if was sensor or relay side that would cause it not to turn off. Assumed it was Sensor side.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333737317263


I can't see your picture well since it is really small as an attachment on CB, but If I would have to hazard a guess in my experience the motor is getting power regardless of the sensor. Maybe the difference is the two wire switch? If you can post a larger picture i can examine it more.

It looks like from the pic the - in from the sensor is going to the #2 pin on the relay?

Here is a pic of what I use for wiring:

Green wire is negative in from the sensor.
Top wires are 12v in from switch, and sensor. bottom wires are to the motor.

white wire negative to sensor. red wire positive to sensor.
Hope that helps.

[HuskJ]

I can't see your picture well since it is really small as an attachment on CB, but If I would have to hazard a guess in my experience the motor is getting power regardless of the sensor. Maybe the difference is the two wire switch? If you can post a larger picture i can examine it more.

It looks like from the pic the - in from the sensor is going to the #2 pin on the relay?

Here is a pic of what I use for wiring:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/kmp2hlbbzdv0ngoyahits/IMG_2375.JPG?rlkey=4ln92iyomso67rhzjnioou9xd&st=cky9tt83&dl=1

Green wire is negative in from the sensor.
Top wires are 12v in from switch, and sensor. bottom wires are to the motor.

white wire negative to sensor. red wire positive to sensor.
Hope that helps.

I have black wire from sensor going to in negative on the relay (as in image in manual) and blue from the censor connected with - Power on speed controller and 12 V negative going to the - on the LED switch. I have Brown from the censor connected with + Power from the controller and + In from the relay going into the middle positive on the LED Switch. I then have the + 12 Volt going to the second + (end one) on the LED Switch. I tried to pm you a google drive larger image but I'll put here as well if it works. https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=8e6853cde5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-6065873799537694673&th=18f4f578a4ba93de&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=f_lvvcgmqv0

[r4ndy]

Not in a position to trace your wiring at the moment but two suggestions. Try another sensor - one of the ones I got on EBay worked backwards (turned off when it sensed metal), Also, get some alligator clips and test before soldering to verify it works as intended.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-low-voltage-multi-colored-test-leads-66717.html?_br_psugg_q=alligator+clips

[doublemike]

Quick google and tons of links. One even from a member here. This one seems to cover it. "Detect Thin Walls"
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/wall-generator

Thanks! I'll have a look into that.

[doublemike]

This came up a few pages back. Here is my response.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5706755&viewfull=1#post5706755

Thank a lot for referring to that. I had used the search function but could not find this. I even tried with D-shaped. But it's probably a user issue ;)
I also had a look at the hex clutch but thought it wouldn't work.

[GWS]

Thank a lot for referring to that. I had used the search function but could not find this. I even tried with D-shaped. But it's probably a user issue ;)
I also had a look at the hex clutch but thought it wouldn't work.

The hex version of the clutch is the only one I use. You can find adapters on Amazon like these, of various motor shaft sizes and Hex head sizes. Notice the set screw cavity which will handle round or "D" shafts.

https://i.postimg.cc/tJL6HTsm/Screenshot-2024-05-07-220019.png

[doublemike]

The hex version of the clutch is the only one I use. You can find adapters on Amazon like these, of various motor shaft sizes and Hex head sizes. Notice the set screw cavity which will handle round or "D" shafts.

https://i.postimg.cc/tJL6HTsm/Screenshot-2024-05-07-220019.png

Indeed, they are mentioned in the manual. But I thought there would just be a clutch that is D-shaped so no adapter is needed.
The item mentioned in the manual is not available in my region but found it somewhere else.

Does anyone know where the source files of these components can be found so I can do some modifications? As I understand it the STL files are just meshes (triangles basically). I'd like to try out a D-shaped clutch, ... At least it would give me some experience with the necessary softwares.

[calgarysparky]

Indeed, they are mentioned in the manual. But I thought there would just be a clutch that is D-shaped so no adapter is needed.
The item mentioned in the manual is not available in my region but found it somewhere else.

Does anyone know where the source files of these components can be found so I can do some modifications? As I understand it the STL files are just meshes (triangles basically). I'd like to try out a D-shaped clutch, ... At least it would give me some experience with the necessary softwares.

I don't think it would work well. Not very much surface area on the shaft to keep it from stripping out easily. It may work for a short time but it will spin out. Giver a go.

[doublemike]

I don't think it would work well. Not very much surface area on the shaft to keep it from stripping out easily. It may work for a short time but it will spin out. Giver a go.

That makes sense. I suppose the round clutch is just made for a motor with a pin driven through the shaft. Otherwise it would have the same or even worse problem of constantly slipping and wearing out quickly.

[TylerR]

I don't think it would work well. Not very much surface area on the shaft to keep it from stripping out easily. It may work for a short time but it will spin out. Giver a go.

This is exactly right. A d shaped clutch will not work. Even the hex can strip out. That is why I use hex-pin these days.

[doublemike]

This is exactly right. A d shaped clutch will not work. Even the hex can strip out. That is why I use hex-pin these days.

Are the step/3mf files or any other source files that these stl files are generated from available somewhere?

[GWS]

This is exactly right. A d shaped clutch will not work. Even the hex can strip out. That is why I use hex-pin these days.

I've been using my hex adapter for years now. Nothing strips as that's what the clutch is for and it works extremely well. I've not even noticed even the slightest wear. Never used or needed a pin in what, three years now. Had to go back and check .... seemed like four years.:)

[TylerR]

I've been using my hex adapter for years now. Nothing strips as that's what the clutch is for and it works extremely well. I've not even notice even the slightest wear. Never used or needed a pin in what, four years now.

I think it depends on how many bullets you are loading in the hopper. I have a guy who wants to load up 1000 9mm bullets in to a 300mm size feeder. Strips the hex out very quickly.

[TylerR]

Are the step/3mf files or any other source files that these stl files are generated from available somewhere?

No the source is not posted. I do give out very specific files sometimes but they are in DSM.

[GWS]

I think it depends on how many bullets you are loading in the hopper. I have a guy who wants to load up 1000 9mm bullets in to a 300mm size feeder. Strips the hex out very quickly.

I can imagine that's so. I admit freely that I NEVER fill up a collater with heavy bullets, and never plan to. My max is a hundred count box at a time at the very most. PLA is lightweight, and thermal printing a .2mm layer at a time is not even close as strong as injection molded nylon or such. But I want my plates and base to last a long time, and they will if I'm reasonable. 1000 9mm is bad enough....how about a 1000 .45's. that would really abuse. :) But to each there own, I guess.

[r4ndy]

Using the regular size feeders for a few years, the clutch works perfectly IMO. Never stripped a clutch with well North of 10K rounds through two collators. I typically start with 250-300 124gr 9’s in the collator and do fine with the Greartisan motor. If I fill the brass collator much more than a couple hundred for 223 processing the clutch spins, so I just don’t overfill. They also don’t feed as well when I put too many in at a time. Also, it is good to take a few min and rest my old shoulder while refilling to avoid repetitive stress as I had some ligament issues a couple years back.

[doublemike]

No the source is not posted. I do give out very specific files sometimes but they are in DSM.

That's a bummer. Why not make it a community project?
Due to the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International license I thought people would be able to adapt.

This makes for a lot of duplicated efforts.

[calgarysparky]

I've switched to CF-PETG for clutches. Easy to print and man is that stuff strong. Just use a .5mm steel nozzle.

[GWS]

That's a bummer. Why not make it a community project?
Due to the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International license I thought people would be able to adapt.

This makes for a lot of duplicated efforts.

The ".stl files are free. You could print them, measure them, reverse engineer them and modify them all you want, just leave the circle T off. But the source is TylerR's intellectual property and posting it to everyone would as certain as the sun will come up tomorrow, backfire. Somebody will start selling products and infringing commercial patents and he'll get the blame. That's why the Creative Commons thing....to prevent that....not to make it a community project.

AmmoMike, whose original tiny simple bullet collator started this thread, had exactly that happen to him. A lawsuit really took the wind out of his sails. We all appreciate what AmmoMike created, but TylerR improved it and expanded it hugely. Let's keep it from disappearing like Ammo Mike's did. Duplicated effort is a small price to pay.

[doublemike]

The ".stl files are free. You could print them, measure them, reverse engineer them and modify them all you want, just leave the circle T off. But the source is TylerR's intellectual property and posting it to everyone would as certain as the sun will come up tomorrow, backfire. Somebody will start selling products and infringing commercial patents and he'll get the blame. That's why the Creative Commons thing....to prevent that....not to make it a community project.

AmmoMike, whose original tiny simple bullet collator started this thread, had exactly that happen to him. A lawsuit really took the wind out of his sails. We all appreciate what AmmoMike created, but TylerR improved it and expanded it hugely. Let's keep it from disappearing like Ammo Mike's did. Duplicated effort is a small price to pay.

Pretty sure that's not what the creative commons license is for or protects you from, or any open source license for that matter.
The license already says you can use and adapt it freely for non-commercial use. So whether that's the source files or the resulting files doesn't matter. Someone can still infringe on patents just with extra steps. The source is the same. The responsibility would be with the person infringing upon the patent. If a pull request comes that infringes on patents that could still be declined in the github repository. Or he could just not allow any external changes but still share the sources. In that sense having the step/3mf files or the stl files in the repo would not make any difference on the legal side of things. So I guess something else is at play.
With all due respect for TylerR, it's a single point of failure and a single point of attack. He goes down and all efforts can be done over.

I also don't see why someone would take the effort to take the T off if they want to infringe on intellectual property/patents. It's just extra hassle with STL files.

Nonetheless I have huge respect for all people involved and having put effort into this project. So big thanks for that!

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !

Anyone that have hooked up the collator in bullet feed mode towards a Frankford Arsenal X-10 press ?
If Yes any cool pimps that should be considered ? Pictures (show your rig) for inspiration would be great.
Best regards
Roger

[djinnpb]

Dear Team !

Anyone that have hooked up the collator in bullet feed mode towards a Frankford Arsenal X-10 press ?
If Yes any cool pimps that should be considered ? Pictures (show your rig) for inspiration would be great.
Best regards
Roger

Roger, I made an adapter to mount to an X-10. I'll get a picture of it for you

[rogerandre]

Roger, I made an adapter to mount to an X-10. I'll get a picture of it for you

Huge thanks buddy - Highly appreciated !