Making that Bullet Collator

[calgarysparky]

Well here she is!!308256

[TylerR]

Well, It was meant to use the sammi drawing dimensions. ShoulderHeight would be from base to the start of the taper, and shoulderwidth would be the diameter at that point. I used mm as a reference. I based the defaults on the 308 case. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Cartridge_308.PNG

Like I said, it may not be perfect and require tweaks. This is my first attempt at OpenSCAD. I used the original 308 brass insert as a reference. I wanted a insert for 284 winchester and one for 6.5 prc. The 284 will work with the original feed tube size, but the 6.5 prc will need a larger tube.

I really like the idea of what you got going here. I will run some tests and print a few out. With your permission I will include it in the downloads once we are sure it is working as intended.

[GWS]

Well here she is!!308256

Looks good! One more 3d printer collator off to the races....good job!

[TylerR]

Looks good! One more 3d printer collator off to the races....good job!

Yes! now let's see some video of it in action.

[calgarysparky]

Yes! now let's see some video of it in action.

just waiting on the optical sensor to arrive and then I'll get the video done up. Thanks to everyone that has made such huge contributions to this project. I hope to add to it in the future!!

[TylerR]

just waiting on the optical sensor to arrive and then I'll get the video done up. Thanks to everyone that has made such huge contributions to this project. I hope to add to it in the future!!

excellent! I like videos. :) I will ask why not prox sensor though? GWS changed the paradigm with that one.

[calgarysparky]

Let's try this again, LOL. I am going optical because the proximity sensor is very large. If I could have found sensitive regular switches that didn't cost a fortune I would have gone with that. Old school electrician here, hard switches rarely fail compared to electronic/electrical ones.

[calgarysparky]

Here is a bench mount I designed for 1x1 aluminum tubing. Not sure how to get the file out for everyone though, that I may need help with. Not the most computer literate dude around, LOL. 308312

[rsp111]

I really like the idea of what you got going here. I will run some tests and print a few out. With your permission I will include it in the downloads once we are sure it is working as intended.

Yes for sure, that is why I posted it, free to use, just glad I could contribute. I would have tested more but I actually dont have a printer myself, I get a local guy to print things for me.

[rsp111]

Here is a bench mount I designed for 1x1 aluminum tubing. Not sure how to get the file out for everyone though, that I may need help with. Not the most computer literate dude around, LOL. 308312

I had an idea about using a high computer monitor stand for mounting the collators, thought it would be nice to be able to adjust it as necessary. just need to design a mount that is compatible.

[calgarysparky]

Do you have a link to that mount?

[rsp111]

Do you have a link to that mount?

i WAS THINKING A STAND LIKE THIS.

308315

I have not seen a compatible mount yet, would have to design one.

[rsp111]

308316

Also Made this today since I havn't been able to find one.

Adapts a rcbs/other primer tray to Lee system.

[azlester]

Just in case I don't make it back by Sunday I want to wish everyone a very MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!
I can't thank everyone enough for all the help and guidance that you all have given me to get this project off the ground... it is greatly appreciated!

[calgarysparky]

well here she is!! Runs flawlessly. Did a 100 round run last night and not a problem. Vid coming this weekend.

308412

[GWS]

Well TylerR, I was bored today.....so I took your short downtubes ( the ones for use below the collator) and filled the light switch holes since all I use is proximity switches. First one is on the printer.......No not at all necessary.....just cosmetic and anal and needed more time on DesignSpark. Don't think I'll ever get comfortable with it....too dumb to learn new tricks well. Here's a screen shot...

https://i.postimg.cc/8PCvc5RT/Downtubes-Filled.jpg

Looks like a really slick pivot! ;) I didn't want to change how the sensor Tee fits.....

[GWS]

https://i.postimg.cc/rschYFVY/Drop-Hole-Drop-Tube-Adapter.jpg

This is the Drop-Hole-Drop-Tube-Adapter listed in adapters, and I think the manual shows it used with the short down tubes illustrated in my last post (designed for switching off feeding just below the collator). But I'm a little confused what this is for.....especially since the twist lock on the bottom is different than the twist lock on the top. Maybe TylerR could enlighten me here. This is my first serious attempt to replace my own prox tee which uses a sleeve insert for .223 only, with your dedicated #6 downtube and proximity switch tee. Looking forward to trying this method for feeding .223.

What I do now works fine, but you see I have this new winter project.....Lee's 6000 press. Got it doing 9mm great, but I thought I'd venture over to rifle just for fun, and Lee's stock feeding tubes, just don't satisfy when you've been making electric collators does it?:)

[TylerR]

Well TylerR, I was bored today.....so I took your short downtubes ( the ones for use below the collator) and filled the light switch holes since all I use is proximity switches. First one is on the printer.......No not at all necessary.....just cosmetic and anal and needed more time on DesignSpark. Don't think I'll ever get comfortable with it....too dumb to learn new tricks well. Here's a screen shot...

https://i.postimg.cc/8PCvc5RT/Downtubes-Filled.jpg

Looks like a really slick pivot! ;) I didn't want to change how the sensor Tee fits.....


Looks good. I did modify a few of the regular drop tubes to get rid of the light sensor. It does not really change the functionality of them, but a little simpler design for sure.

[TylerR]

https://i.postimg.cc/rschYFVY/Drop-Hole-Drop-Tube-Adapter.jpg

This is the Drop-Hole-Drop-Tube-Adapter listed in adapters, and I think you show it used with the short down tubes illustrated in my last post. But I'm a little confused what this is for.....especially since the twist lock on the bottom is different than the twist lock on the top. Care to enlighten me here. This is my first serious attempt to replace my version which uses the .223 sleeve insert, with your dedicated #6 downtube and proximity switch tee. Looking forward to trying this method for feeding .223.

What I do now works fine, but you see I have this new winter project.....Lee's 6000 press. Got it doing 9mm.....thought I'd venture over to rifle just for fun, and Lee's stock feeding tubes, just don't satisfy when you've been making electric collators does it?:)

That adapter is designed to go from the drop hole twist lock to a drop tube. I created it prior to the modified drop tubes (alt) that you posted above. When using the drop tube alts it is un-necessary.

[GWS]

That adapter is designed to go from the drop hole twist lock to a drop tube. I created it prior to the modified drop tubes (alt) that you posted above. When using the drop tube alts it is un-necessary.

Okay.....now it makes sense! That's good.....one less part to print.

Is it best to print the modified drop tubes upside down with its single ring on the base? Or top up and add inside supports?

[TylerR]

Okay.....now it makes sense! That's good.....one less part to print.

Is it best to print the modified drop tubes upside down with its single ring on the base? Or top up and add inside supports?

I print them with the number upside down, which is how they are designed. Some people have issues with them sticking to the bed that way, but with your poly print surface it should be a piece of cake. :)

[GWS]

I print them with the number upside down, which is how they are designed. Some people have issues with them sticking to the bed that way, but with your poly print surface it should be a piece of cake. :)

That's what I figured.....3d printers for the most part do as they are told.....except when they don't. ;) I started it that way and got about 4 layers when it lifted and started going around the circle with the nozzle! All it takes is one little something not perfect. So I stopped it and started over, cleaned one more time with 99% alcohol.....raised the first layer just a hair....like a hundredth, and its working fine....so far. sheesh, picky picky. But some with lesser beds, may have fits. So what was my problem...first try? I had the nozzle set just a little too close to the bed. Raised it....perfect. No raft, no brim necessary....just go.:popcorn:

Bottom's Up!

https://i.postimg.cc/XvDpqg7k/Bottoms-Up.jpg


https://youtu.be/Xa-u8q47PE0

As you can see, the Polypropylene bed Tyler recommends is exceptional to use....the model sticks even when it's top heavy....and easy enough to remove. No masking tape, no bed adhesive needed or wanted. Link follows: https://www.amazon.com/3103103mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JC9LQTY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mamorubot&qid=1635802575&sr=8-1

The important steps are, when you first get it home, to use 220 grit sandpaper and buff the bed surface for the proper amount of "tooth." And then wipe the surface dust and contaminate-free before each print with 99% isopropyl alcohol. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QDJXCQ1/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08QDJXCQ1&pd_rd_w=SFHZY&content-id=amzn1.sym.88097cb9-5064-44ef-891b-abfacbc1c44b&pf_rd_p=88097cb9-5064-44ef-891b-abfacbc1c44b&pf_rd_r=4SNT05X7897GGB49SJ5F&pd_rd_wg=RHnA3&pd_rd_r=8b302a85-aa9a-4dec-aa17-d88b494c4324&s=hpc&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
https://i.postimg.cc/Wbbmd5sQ/IMG-4161.jpg

Proximity switch is now mounted to the #6 alternate drop tube for .223 rifle bullet feeding on the Lee Pro 6000....ready to screw lock under the collator.

[TylerR]

That's what I figured.....3d printers for the most part do as they are told.....except when they don't. ;) I started it that way and got about 4 layers when it lifted and started going around the circle with the nozzle! All it takes is one little something not perfect. So I stopped it and started over, cleaned one more time with 99% alcohol.....raised the first layer just a hair....like a hundredth, and its working fine....so far. sheesh, picky picky. But some with lesser beds, may have fits. So what was my problem...first try? I had the nozzle set just a little too close to the bed. Raised it....perfect. No raft, no brim necessary....just go.:popcorn:

Bottom's Up!

As you can see, the Polypropylene bed Tyler recommends is exceptional to use....the model sticks even when it's top heavy....and easy enough to remove. No masking tape, no bed adhesive needed or wanted. Link follows: https://www.amazon.com/3103103mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JC9LQTY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mamorubot&qid=1635802575&sr=8-1

The important steps are, when you first get it home, to use 220 grit sandpaper and buff the bed surface for the proper amount of "tooth." And then wipe the surface dust and contaminate-free before each print with 99% isopropyl alcohol. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QDJXCQ1/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08QDJXCQ1&pd_rd_w=SFHZY&content-id=amzn1.sym.88097cb9-5064-44ef-891b-abfacbc1c44b&pf_rd_p=88097cb9-5064-44ef-891b-abfacbc1c44b&pf_rd_r=4SNT05X7897GGB49SJ5F&pd_rd_wg=RHnA3&pd_rd_r=8b302a85-aa9a-4dec-aa17-d88b494c4324&s=hpc&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

Proximity switch is now mounted to the #6 alternate drop tube for .223 rifle bullet feeding on the Lee Pro 6000....ready to screw lock under the collator.

Looks awesome GWS! It's funny how many people I have recommended poly beds have not taken me up on it. They still try to use glass, or the stock magnetic bed, or expensive pei beds. But they still can't seem to print a part like you just demonstrated above.

[GWS]

Looks awesome GWS! It's funny how many people I have recommended poly beds have not taken me up on it. They still try to use glass, or the stock magnetic bed, or expensive pei beds. But they still can't seem to print a part like you just demonstrated above.

Before I bought a poly P. bed, I spent more time trying (mostly in vain) to find a way to print without lifting than printing. In the case demoed, I decided since there was so little model touching the bed, that I would lower the nozzle a just littttle lower to make it even flatter......ha! it was right already....so I raised it back to where it was. You see the trouble is.....if the nozzle is too low one "glob" on the head will scrape the previous layer off.....and that's worse than too high.

The tape and spray glue methods are just a gigantic PIA. What a waste of valuable time. Never tried pei beds....not necessary imo....and I'd be surprised if there's any merit over these cheap and effective poly P. beds.

[azlester]

What poly p plate are you using? Where did you get it?

[TylerR]

What poly p plate are you using? Where did you get it?

GWS posted a link to it up above.

[rsp111]

308843

I printed a couple and had some weak points, reworked.

Be carfull of the Feed tube size, make sure you give enough clearance.

[GWS]

308843

I printed a couple and had some weak points, reworked.

Be careful of the Feed tube size, make sure you give enough clearance.

Interesting concept. Which case are you modeling in this sample? (nevermind....308...reread your 8th post) Would be nice to have a way to name it. (emboss it like TylerR's) But I don't know enough about Scad to do what you've done already let alone that! ;)

I did create the 30-06 and a few others like .270, .308 and .223 in TylerR's cad program, DesignSpark Mechanical, just by creating a square version of a case...slightly oversize to prevent hanging....inserting it in the insert the proper height, in as far as the center point, then removing it and anything that intersected it. In effect....what you did....but I like the concept of being able to set case dimension parameters and do it for most bottleneck cases. I'm too old to learn a programmable cad, Keep up the good work!

[rsp111]

Interesting concept. Which case are you modeling in this sample? (nevermind....308...reread your 8th post) Would be nice to have a way to name it. (emboss it like TylerR's) But I don't know enough about Scad to do what you've done already let alone that! ;)

I did create the 30-06 and a few others like .270, .308 and .223 in TylerR's cad program, DesignSpark Mechanical, just by creating a square version of a case...slightly oversize to prevent hanging....inserting it in the insert the proper height, in as far as the center point, then removing it and anything that intersected it. In effect....what you did....but I like the concept of being able to set case dimension parameters and do it for most bottleneck cases. I'm too old to learn a programmable cad, Keep up the good work!

I hear you on the label, I'm pretty new at it too, but have a programming background, I am pretty sure I saw a way to do text. Hold my beer!

[TylerR]

I hear you on the label, I'm pretty new at it too, but have a programming background, I am pretty sure I saw a way to do text. Hold my beer!

This is the function in the plate generator

description = "Text to Add";

translate([0, 25, collator_plate_h/2 -0.99 ])
rotate([0, 0, 0]) letter(description,6,1);

module letter(l, letter_size, letter_height) {
font = "Liberation Sans";
linear_extrude(height = letter_height) {text(l, size = letter_size, font = font, halign = "center", valign = "center", $fn = 16);}
}

[rsp111]

Ok,

As requested, added a label

308915

[TylerR]

Ok,

As requested, added a label

308915

Looks great. I have one more suggestion. If you look at my app inserts they have beveled edges at the top and bottom of the cylinder. This aids in inserting it in to the main bracket, as well as inserting the clear tubes on the inside or other adapters on the outside at the top. Would be sweet if you could add them to the generator.

[GWS]

Ditto that....looks great. What TylerR is asking for is on the right. I didn't do that on bottom as you can see, but I think its a good idea to round the edge there too:

https://i.postimg.cc/028G8R9T/APP-Brass-Insert-223.png

[rsp111]

308937

Ok Guys, Here you go, Chamfered.

[TylerR]

308937

Ok Guys, Here you go, Chamfered.

Is there anyway you can also chamfer the outside edge of the top? There are adapters that interface with the top section and it is printed with the top face down on the build surface, so that would otherwise need to be sanded if not beveled.

[rsp111]

Is there anyway you can also chamfer the outside edge of the top? There are adapters that interface with the top section and it is printed with the top face down on the build surface, so that would otherwise need to be sanded if not beveled.

Well I can, but I did make the top bigger to accomodate larger Tube sizes, but it could be a changable value as well.

[rsp111]

Ok Made the Head diameter dynamic to 5mm over Tube size if tube od is greater then 15 mm, otherwise its 19 mm

308959

[GWS]

Very cool idea.

I've been testing TylerR's bullet collater, 223 bullet feed die, case collating with his magic APP caliber Quickchange System on my new Lee 6000. I only had to modify the caliber insert hanger a little to shorten the distance between the support column and the insert hole and also lengthen the support column......all the inserts work without change. I only fed bullets on test "M" die expanded cases....did not seat any. That last bullet either had a dent in the base, or no stack above to weight it home, but otherwise the "M" pocket held the bullets really straight. Next test will add powder & a seater. ;)


https://youtu.be/gmOBez6doNE

[calgarysparky]

took a while to design, print, and assemble, but got exactly what I wanted!!309071

[GWS]

Congrats! Looks great!

[Silverbullit]

took a while to design, print, and assemble, but got exactly what I wanted!!309071
Awesome,
I think I must get myself a 3D printer asap!!!

Where do I download the 3D printing files and build description/parts list?

/Silverbullit

[GWS]

Awesome,
I think I must get myself a 3D printer asap!!!

Where do I download the 3D printing files and build description/parts list?

/Silverbullit

Guess I'm the only one around to answer.....go to one of TylerR's posts.....at the bottom of the post is ... "downloads" click on that .... all the files, the manual, and software to help you choose which parts is there. You can download all of it at once or one file at a time.

[calgarysparky]

Awesome,
I think I must get myself a 3D printer asap!!!

Where do I download the 3D printing files and build description/parts list?

/Silverbullit

It's not quite as easy as just getting a printer. I've spent probably a month working on this, and learning the 3d printing end is still a work in progress. Not saying don't do this, just saying to be real with your expectations. Its a pretty serious task, but tons of fun. The end result is well worth it, IMO.

[Silverbullit]

Thanks mate!!!
Now I see it ��

[Silverbullit]

It's not quite as easy as just getting a printer. I've spent probably a month working on this, and learning the 3d printing end is still a work in progress. Not saying don't do this, just saying to be real with your expectations. Its a pretty serious task, but tons of fun. The end result is well worth it, IMO.

Yeah, I waited for these/3D printers ever since I saw "Small Soldiers" like back in -98 or something around there. When they finally popped up I got severely discouraged by all the tinkering, progeamming and software implied... like phew
Anyhows theres a lot now that I wanted to print, even saved some stuff on my laptop ssd during the years, unfoerunately them intel ssd's apparantly has a knack for bricking themselves spontaneously when Intel feels they wanna sell you a new one... :/
Speaking of lost files, does anybody have the bulletmike83 bulletfeeder printfiles ?
(Also lovely if parts list included)

Cannot find it anymore so I turn to you guru-forummates

/Silverbullit

[Sig]

Speaking of lost files, does anybody have the bulletmike83 bulletfeeder printfiles ?
(Also lovely if parts list included)

Cannot find it anymore so I turn to you guru-forummates

/Silverbullit

Why would you want those files when you can build Tyler's? There a ton of support right here if you need it, not to mention the vast number of configurations. I think you'd be pretty much on your own with the ammo Mike feeder.

I'm new to 3d printing as of Christmas 2021. I've built 2 of these for my LNL's & could not be happier. Best of luck with your endeavors.

[calgarysparky]

You won't want to be chasing that relic down. I am currently fixing one of those for a friend and adding what I can make work from this amazing design onto it. This project is the one you want to build if you are going to build anything. This design and all of the support is what you want.

[Silverbullit]

Why would you want those files when you can build Tyler's? There a ton of support right here if you need it, not to mention the vast number of configurations. I think you'd be pretty much on your own with the ammo Mike feeder.

I'm new to 3d printing as of Christmas 2021. I've built 2 of these for my LNL's & could not be happier. Best of luck with your endeavors.

Aight, thank you for that insightful feedback. I am looking at different printers as we speak, how large build plate do I need to print Tylers printfiles?
I dont know how to measure the files in the download link, there seems to be 3 different sizes like normal, 300 and mongo... (Guessing the 300 implies 300mm wide) but what sizes are these three?
I'd sure appreciate your feedback on this mates!

[GWS]

Aight, thank you for that insightful feedback. I am looking at different printers as we speak, how large build plate do I need to print Tylers printfiles?
I dont know how to measure the files in the download link, there seems to be 3 different sizes like normal, 300 and mongo... (Guessing the 300 implies 300mm wide) but what sizes are these three?
I'd sure appreciate your feedback on this mates!

The 300 is for a printer bed 300mm X 300mm X 400mm, like you find on Creality's CR10 V2 and V3. I use this size for rifle case feeders.

The Mongo requires a printer with a 350mm square bed like the Ender 5 Plus TylerR uses. I can't print that one on my CR10 V2.

The original normal TylerR collator can be printed on a Creality Ender 3 with a 220mm square bed. I prefer that size for all bullet collators and works fine for pistol case feeders too.

Below is a picture of the 300 (left) and the Normal size (right) that I have printed and now use. I only use Proximity switches with variable speed on/off speed control to control collator feeding. As per TylerR's suggestion....I also use a relay to preserve the prox. switch. The big knobs in the middle cover the wonderful TylerR clutch system.....no more broken parts from feeding snafus.

https://i.postimg.cc/Hn12w0QX/IMG_4005.jpg

[calgarysparky]

Really gotta get me a bigger printer, LOL. That 300 is IMO perfect for case feeding.

[Silverbullit]

The 300 is for a printer bed 300mm X 300mm X 400mm, like you find on Creality's CR10 V2 and V3. I use this size for rifle case feeders.

The Mongo requires a printer with a 350mm square bed like the Ender 5 Plus TylerR uses. I can't print that one on my CR10 V2.

The original normal TylerR collator can be printed on a Creality Ender 3 with a 220mm square bed. I prefer that size for all bullet collators and works fine for pistol case feeders too.

Below is a picture of the 300 (left) and the Normal size (right) that I have printed and now use. I only use Proximity switches with variable speed on/off speed control to control collator feeding. As per TylerR's suggestion....I also use a relay to preserve the prox. switch. The big knobs in the middle cover the wonderful TylerR clutch system.....no more broken parts from feeding snafus.

https://i.postimg.cc/Hn12w0QX/IMG_4005.jpg

I trust you then that the Normal size printable on 220 plate is the most slick and suitable size.
Thank you mates for enlightening me and fill in my questions!
AND I JUST PULLED THE TRIGGER - or I mean I pushed the BUY button on a 3D printer.
With the feedback above that a big platform is not needed I went for the recommended one that supposedly most userfriendly, almost crépéd meself when they notified me that the VAT was NOT included. Phew... well at least I pressed the buy button so the hardest job is done I guess. I really look forward to unbox the miracle and fumble up a bunch of rolls of PetG :) And I really am happy that I found you mates here, you seem like a pleasant helpful bunch of sharpshooters and I cant wait to hang with you guys and learn stuff about 3D printing! :popcorn:
I will try to find out how to plug it in to the wallsocket before it arrives so I gotta heckuvalot of manualreading to do!!! [smilie=p:

May the force be with you!
/Silverbullit the Swede

[Sig]

I trust you then that the Normal size printable on 220 plate is the most slick and suitable size.
Thank you mates for enlightening me and fill in my questions!
AND I JUST PULLED THE TRIGGER - or I mean I pushed the BUY button on a 3D printer.
With the feedback above that a big platform is not needed I went for the recommended one that supposedly most userfriendly, almost crépéd meself when they notified me that the VAT was NOT included. Phew... well at least I pressed the buy button so the hardest job is done I guess. I really look forward to unbox the miracle and fumble up a bunch of rolls of PetG :) And I really am happy that I found you mates here, you seem like a pleasant helpful bunch of sharpshooters and I cant wait to hang with you guys and learn stuff about 3D printing! :popcorn:
I will try to find out how to plug it in to the wallsocket before it arrives so I gotta heckuvalot of manualreading to do!!! [smilie=p:

May the force be with you!
/Silverbullit the Swede

Congrats & best of luck with your printer. I've yet to print with anything other than PLA as I was told it is the easiest to work with. I've heard good things about PETG but also heard of people struggling to get it right.

[Silverbullit]

Congrats & best of luck with your printer. I've yet to print with anything other than PLA as I was told it is the easiest to work with. I've heard good things about PETG but also heard of people struggling to get it right.

Ooohhhhh... well I'm goin straight for PetG!!! [smilie=1: And hey Thanks mate, have a feeling I can use all the luck I can gather!!!

Well holding my thumbs it'll arrive swiftly, I already waited like 33 mins or something, it's taking forever!!!

[calgarysparky]

PETG can be tricky, but it does have more flex than PLA. I am using PLA+ for my stuff. Strong and easy to print. Prints at a higher temp and so far everything is working really well. I would grab a roll of PLA+ to start with to get used to your printer and how these things work. I'm still dialing in my settings for PETG, and I bought a cheap enclosure for printing ABS stuff. Lots of fun. Good luck on your journey. I recommend joining a FB group specific to whatever printer you bought so you can get assistance whit it when you need it.

[M500]

Updated files.

Edit; added size 16.

[johnpcace]

does anyone have the cad file for the large electric box? The pwm I can find and on / off switch doesn't fit in the precut box.

[TylerR]

does anyone have the cad file for the large electric box? The pwm I can find and on / off switch doesn't fit in the precut box.

There are "template" files in the project for the electronics boxes. You should be able to easily add the cutouts you need using tinkercad.

[GWS]

Well TylerR, as you know my latest winter project has been to make the Lee 6000 sing, and I've finished and showed off the .223 version with electric collators. But my grandkids have 9mm they want to load (you know I don't own a gun in that caliber). So I've used your quick change on the 6000 to quickly convert the press to help them out. Works perfect and the change was just 5 minutes......except for one thing.....collators. Got to convert them too.

You know I've used the large pistol case plates on most everything, but for 9mm a case or two goes in upside down. Yesterday I was looking at my collection of Ammo Mike sized plates (using that collator temporarily to feed cases to this new press), and that one weird plate with "special" holes for nose-down .45 boolits caught my eye.....so just for fun I dropped it in the little collator to see what it would do in a pinch on "cases", filled it up with 9mm cases (careful to drop them in the center so as not to drop any initially directly upside down.) and mounted spring tube to the 6000 and turned it on. Boy was I surprised! It vomited every case in 3 turns all perfectly base down. Couldn't believe it so I repeated the experiment 3 more times....same thing, perfect instant tube fill.

So I made another plate last night with DesignSpark M. "normal TylerR" size. Will print and test it today.

This is what it looks like....simple, simple:

https://i.postimg.cc/jq7Ycmrm/9mm-Case-Plate-Super-E.jpg

If it works as good as the Ammo Mike size I will send you the source....you need something new to play with. ;)

Looks like I may print one more collator normal size....and retire the little one. Not that its not useful, but the motor speed control on it won't slow it down enough as you will see in the coming video. Funny, once the tube is filled to the prox switch, it only goes on for a split second to drop one more bullet....it drops em almost faster than I can pull the handle and feed one. ;)

[GWS]

Tested the case collator on the 6000 this morning.....only two hick-ups.....both caused by short stroking....which is all I did while I tested the feeding.;)

Overall I think it was successful. Liking the press more and more....and the 3D printed APP quick-change works great doesn't it! Only the insert holder was changed...because the distance between insert hole and screw hole is different for that press.


https://youtu.be/aOZ65zvXbJg


310351

DesignSpark makes HUGE .stl files so I can't post the plate in .stl. Attached is the source in DesignSpark. Maybe TylerR knows how to make them smaller, but I don't. This is the "normal" plate size not Ammo Mike's size....I assumed correctly?

[Tom Myers]

[QUOTE=GWS;5532770]Tested the case collator on the 6000 this morning.....only two hick-ups.....both caused by short stroking....which is all I did while I tested the feeding.;)\[QUOTE]

GWS,
Would it be possible to supply a direct link to your design spark workfile and also an stl file for this collator plate model?

[GWS]

See note at the bottom of my other post...... Wish TylerR could tell me how to make .stl files in his favorite software reasonable....I know it has more fluff in it than code.....because the source file is tiny.

I created it from a stl.....maybe that's why it is so large.....all those triangles...;)

One more thing......my print on the bigger plate is not finished yet, so it is untested....so be aware. The AmmoMike size is what's in the test video.

[Tom Myers]

See note at the bottom of my other post...... Wish TylerR could tell me how to make .stl files in his favorite software reasonable....I know it has more fluff in it than code.....because the source file is tiny.

I created it from a stl.....maybe that's why it is so large.....all those triangles...;)

One more thing......my print on the bigger plate is not finished yet, so it is untested....so be aware. The AmmoMike size is what's in the test video.

OK, good enough.
I'll wait until TylerR posts something.

[TylerR]

Tested the case collator on the 6000 this morning.....only two hick-ups.....both caused by short stroking....which is all I did while I tested the feeding.;)

Overall I think it was successful. Liking the press more and more....and the 3D printed APP quick-change works great doesn't it! Only the insert holder was changed...because the distance between insert hole and screw hole is different for that press.

DesignSpark makes HUGE .stl files so I can't post the plate in .stl. Attached is the source in DesignSpark. Maybe TylerR knows how to make them smaller, but I don't. This is the "normal" plate size not Ammo Mike's size....I assumed correctly?

Love seeing all your recent developments. looks really cool, and I like the press. If I was in the market for a new progressive I would take a strong look at the Lee.

[TylerR]

See note at the bottom of my other post...... Wish TylerR could tell me how to make .stl files in his favorite software reasonable....I know it has more fluff in it than code.....because the source file is tiny.

I created it from a stl.....maybe that's why it is so large.....all those triangles...;)

One more thing......my print on the bigger plate is not finished yet, so it is untested....so be aware. The AmmoMike size is what's in the test video.

You can control the stl export options in DSM by going to File-DesignSpark Options-File Options-STL. There you can set the level of detail that is output. If you are looking to share anything send it to me and I can post it to dropbox.

[GWS]

Yeah everything I make I'd be glad to share....just being able to keep the zip files small enough for either the forum or your email is the question....working on it. Expect an email later today.

Bigger plate is done...looks pretty good....found a new satin red from Matterhackers....like it much better. (my last Dr. Pepper cup made a good photo stand.):)

https://i.postimg.cc/zB8Ft5qz/IMG-4216.jpg

Now just waiting for the clutch parts to finish.....

https://i.postimg.cc/JhbQ5tVY/IMG-4215.jpg

Tyler, which are your final files for your handle/clutch parts that you like best? There's a twist lock on it, now? Plan to print a set up.

[GWS]

Went to the menu TylerR told me go to, and found a setting that said "export current graphics" and that cut it WAY down even below the source file I sent you.

So here's the .STL .....hope it's all there: 310365

Could it be that easy? :)

[Tom Myers]

Went to the menu TylerR told me go to, and found a setting that said "export current graphics" and that cut it WAY down even below the source file I sent you.

So here's the .STL .....hope it's all there: 310365

Could it be that easy? :)

GWS,

Yep. It's that easy.

I clicked on your link and the zip file was immediately downloaded to the last folder that I was working in. I unzipped the stl file and then imported the file into OpenScad in order to ensure the clutch will fit and to create a "9mm Case" label on the plate.

Before I could import the shrunken (169 GB) stl file into OpenScad, I needed to open the file in Ultimaker-Cura and then export the file as a larger, (625 GB) ASCII format before openscad could import and image the collator plate.

My Ultimaker-Cura slicer says that the print will be a 13 hour and 6 minute print using 20% infill and standard print quality.

Couldn't ask for a better outcome and couldn't be easier.

Good job, GWS and TylerR and thanks again for all of your efforts and expertise.

Click on the images to view full size
310370 310371

[M500]

This is one method of reducing file size that works well.

https://myminifactory.github.io/Fast-Quadric-Mesh-Simplification/


Another good way is to use Microsoft 3d builder.

open file in builder
import model
edit
click object
simplify
slide reduction level (1 is normally a lot)
reduce faces
save


The curved drop tubes I posted above were reduced using 3d builder.
The GitHub link gives you a lot more control over your reduction level.
TylerR, the drop tubes are yours to do with as you please.

[GWS]

Easy for you! Good job.....I used to program, but I have a hard time with OpenScad! Nice that you got it labeled.

Mine finished printing and I subjected it to the superspeed feed test.......100% no upside-downers.


https://youtu.be/LVoPngJTHxE

TylerR.....all yours.....needs the "T" embossed.

[TylerR]

Easy for you! Good job.....I used to program, but I have a hard time with OpenScad! Nice that you got it labeled.

Mine finished printing and I subjected it to the superspeed feed test.......100% no upside-downers.


https://youtu.be/LVoPngJTHxE

TylerR.....all yours.....needs the "T" embossed.

Holy cow that is insane!

[TylerR]

GWS,

Yep. It's that easy.

I clicked on your link and the zip file was immediately downloaded to the last folder that I was working in. I unzipped the stl file and then imported the file into OpenScad in order to ensure the clutch will fit and to create a "9mm Case" label on the plate.

Before I could import the shrunken (169 GB) stl file into OpenScad, I needed to open the file in Ultimaker-Cura and then export the file as a larger, (625 GB) ASCII format before openscad could import and image the collator plate.

My Ultimaker-Cura slicer says that the print will be a 13 hour and 6 minute print using 20% infill and standard print quality.

Couldn't ask for a better outcome and couldn't be easier.

Good job, GWS and TylerR and thanks again for all of your efforts and expertise.


Very nice. Now you and GWS need to have a race to see who can run it faster :)

[TylerR]

Tyler, which are your final files for your handle/clutch parts that you like best? There's a twist lock on it, now? Plan to print a set up.

Yes, those are the latest. I find the twist lock to work well but there are also holes to attach permanently if you want.

Just grab the Collator plate handle, slip clutch and ring.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/tree/main/3.%20Collator%20Plates

[GWS]

Very nice. Now you and GWS need to have a race to see who can run it faster :)

No....I just need to get off my butt and order one more speed control! ;) But you have to admit....that's a good torture test. Should have zero problems at a normal speed.

Will print out that clutch and check it out.....looks cool!

You probably noticed that I ended up using one of my prox sensor bodies instead of yours as I intended on the Pro 6000. Reason was simple....I had no room for yours or mine height wise.....but I had broken the top of one of mine a while back.....turned it upside down....stuck a clear tube inside, which was the inside diameter of the spring I'm using and the spring was threaded into it resting on that tube. So that much shorter, it worked. Always a twist, isn't there, and flexibility is a must.

One more thing.....you can't have too many progressives.....the six holer needs to find its way to your house someday.....it is a fun one...and cheap too.

[JStuhlmiller]

There are "template" files in the project for the electronics boxes. You should be able to easily add the cutouts you need using tinkercad.

I suck at cad so I do the printing and my buddy does the cad work. He uses fusion 360 and it causes issues with the stl. This causes issues with the print.

Tyler thank you very much btw this thing works the nuts.

[GWS]

I suck at cad so I do the printing and my buddy does the cad work. He uses fusion 360 and it causes issues with the stl. This causes issues with the print.

Tyler thank you very much btw this thing works the nuts.

I used to use Fusion, and had no issues. But that was before I decided Autocad and DesignSpark M. could do anything Fusion could, What type of issues....? Probably a setting or two is not right.

[johnpcace]

Well first I suck at cad. But my buddy who is good at it, has had issues with stl's importing and not creating weird surfaces. The box that I need modified ended up having a weird extra surface on it.

Pretty simple modification 2 10mm holes on the bottom as pictured and a square cutout for a power switch and a round one for 310409the PWM.

As you can see Fusion added that weird surface on the bottom which causes a weird print issue.

[GWS]

Like this? The square hole is 13X20mm that works for my switches.... since you didn't give a size had to guess...hole beside it is 8mm Dia. The two on the bottom are 10mm dia. as specified. Zip file has the .STL. I did not remove the existing hole on the other end. Let me know if that works......no did not use Fusion.....from an existing .stl .... I wouldn't. Used DSM.

https://i.postimg.cc/tgSfhz1k/box.jpg

310424

[johnpcace]

That is awesome almost perfect! Thanks

[JStuhlmiller]

Is there a motor that is best as far as speed and torque. I noticed my current feeder which I will be replacing has a problem after about 300 bullets

[Dosch]

I just finnished printing most parts for a standard size collator on my Ender 5+ and I noticed that the collator plate comes out a little oval. In the tightest orientations the plate barely fit in the main body. The different lengths seemed to be alligned with the lines in the skin, so I created a simple solid for calibration and printed it in a few different orientations on the printbed and measured the length of the print. The results were as I suspected, worse in the diagonal direction.

Measuring the length on a part that was 140.0 mm in the model I got:

0° -> 139.7 mm
90° -> 139.7 mm
45° -> 140.5 mm
-45° -> 138.9 mm

0° means aligned with the X axis and 90° with the Y axis.

This explains why my collator plate is not round, but I still can't figure out what could cause the X and Y be of equal length but the diagonals be shorter or longer.
Does anybody have a good idea what to check?

[JStuhlmiller]

I just finnished printing most parts for a standard size collator on my Ender 5+ and I noticed that the collator plate comes out a little oval. In the tightest orientations the plate barely fit in the main body. The different lengths seemed to be alligned with the lines in the skin, so I created a simple solid for calibration and printed it in a few different orientations on the printbed and measured the length of the print. The results were as I suspected, worse in the diagonal direction.

Measuring the length on a part that was 140.0 mm in the model I got:

0° -> 139.7 mm
90° -> 139.7 mm
45° -> 140.5 mm
-45° -> 138.9 mm

0° means aligned with the X axis and 90° with the Y axis.

This explains why my collator plate is not round, but I still can't figure out what could cause the X and Y be of equal length but the diagonals be shorter or longer.
Does anybody have a good idea what to check?

have you tried to reopen the stl and reslice it? It could be as simple as when you had it open in Cura you inadvertantly changed the y axis.

[TylerR]

Is there a motor that is best as far as speed and torque. I noticed my current feeder which I will be replacing has a problem after about 300 bullets

This is the one.
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

what is your current feeder/motor?

[Silverbullit]

Sure sounds like one factor is shrinkage, are you printing PLA?

[Silverbullit]

Howdy mates,
Cant wait to get this awesome build project started! :p
The 3D printer has arrived (has a 25cm build plate minus the skirtsettings), i installed OpenScad and started up the .jar Software... but I am at a loss as to what choices I should check :-P (Lousy english skills.)
I want to print both a case feeder, bottoms down (9mm & 45acp), and a bulletfeeder for my trusty StarSizers, point up(9mm & 45acp).
What boxes should I check for the optimal setup?

The motor you recommend above TyleR, I cant see the corresponding tag in the choices which option is this? (Amazing project mate, count me in as president of your Swedish fanclub! :)
310568

310569

I sure would appreciate your feedback on this mates!
(Btw, Is there a video explaining the choices?)

May the force be with you mates!!!
/Silverbullit now joining the printerowner section of castboolits :) :) :)

[Dosch]

have you tried to reopen the stl and reslice it? It could be as simple as when you had it open in Cura you inadvertantly changed the y axis.
I chekced the gcode for one of the 45° prints and checked the length of movement when printing the outer perimiter. It was one line width shorter than what the model specified, so nothing wrong there.


Sure sounds like one factor is shrinkage, are you printing PLA?
Yes, printing with eSUN PLA+.

[Silverbullit]

Yes, printing with eSUN PLA+.

Should mention basically brand new to 3D printing, I got 30'ish rolls of different brand filaments and am trying them all out and eSUN rocks! (Great choice there mate!) Measurementwise I have A LOT better tolerances with PetG (same with the PctG I tried so far) proving to have much less shrinkage and seemingly equal in strength to PLA+ (actually slightly better in strength, also better properties regarding heat resistance, uv, chemicals asf) So if you have the possibility to print PetG it might be a grand idea to try out a roll and check out if the benefits helps out. It sure gives me much better tolerances, one thing I'm trying out is making 100mm cubes and they come out 99,76mm x 99,76mm x 99,76mm, that is no fiddling with settings at all with eSUN solid red & solid blue (looks more like Orange & Dark Marineblue in my eyes tho)
I tried a handful of sky blue/light blue brands PetG since eSUN does not have any light blue options that comes close to Dillonpress-blue. They all have one thing in common, they are sheit compared to eSUN PetG! Much much weaker, stringing, clogging and just a nightmare. Just cleaned clogs in the Nozzle/Extruder and the AMS *phew* literally stayed up most of the night because I get totally in to crepe when I do stuff :0
Anyways mate, with my humble findings I think it might be advantageous for your dilemma to check out eSUN's PetG. (Not their transparent stuff tho, go with the Solids)
Hope that is of some help...

(PS. If youre Swedish or the Northern frozen over bungholio as yours truly, just notice Elefun has surprisingly nice price on the eSUN PetG right now 215Sek (like 20 bucks) so I'm ordering 15-20 more rolls today since I plan on dragging my shooting mates in to TyleR and JsSeth's wonderfully amazingly hypnotizing projects! :))

[Dosch]

Howdy mates,
Cant wait to get this awesome build project started! :p
The 3D printer has arrived (has a 25cm build plate minus the skirtsettings), i installed OpenScad and started up the .jar Software... but I am at a loss as to what choices I should check :-P (Lousy english skills.)
I want to print both a case feeder, bottoms down (9mm & 45acp), and a bulletfeeder for my trusty StarSizers, point up(9mm & 45acp).
What boxes should I check for the optimal setup?

The motor you recommend above TyleR, I cant see the corresponding tag in the choices which option is this? (Amazing project mate, count me in as president of your Swedish fanclub! :)
310568

310569

I sure would appreciate your feedback on this mates!
(Btw, Is there a video explaining the choices?)

May the force be with you mates!!!
/Silverbullit now joining the printerowner section of castboolits :) :) :)
The recommended motor is pattern 634JS. If you're looking for a similairly speced motor in EU you can try https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0875XW5X6 It fits the collator, but I have yet to try how it performs.
You need to select a sensor solution. Proximity sensor is the recommended.
You also need to select whether to use cross-shaft or hex coupler. The hex coupler should be easier to fit.
You have selected brass with base up, not down as you wanted.
The APP parts are kind of a separate project. You only want those if you're looking to improve a LEE APP press.
If you don't want a custom collator plate, you don't need to select anything from the collator plate generator tab.

[Silverbullit]

The recommended motor is pattern 634JS. If you're looking for a similairly speced motor in EU you can try https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0875XW5X6 It fits the collator, but I have yet to try how it performs.
You need to select a sensor solution. Proximity sensor is the recommended.
You also need to select whether to use cross-shaft or hex coupler. The hex coupler should be easier to fit.
You have selected brass with base up, not down as you wanted.
The APP parts are kind of a separate project. You only want those if you're looking to improve a LEE APP press.
If you don't want a custom collator plate, you don't need to select anything from the collator plate generator tab.

Thank you Dosch!!! Really appreciated!
I got the zip file with parts for the printer however I am lacking something incredibly important, where do I find the shoppinglist for the electronics and instructions?

Also a quickie detail,
The Spring tube choices, what are they? What should I check for 9mm and/or 45acp? (I'll prolly end up printing two separately dedicated feeders for 9/45) ;-)


Thank you mate!
I look forward posting and sharing the build progression :drinks:

[Dosch]

Silberbullit, check out page 5 of the "User Manual.pdf". There is also a list earlier in this thread of what fasteners are needed, some M3&M4 but also some more unusual ones like M2 and 1/4" UNC and even more obscure: 6-32. You can get away using M3 instead, but then you will have to hold the nut yourself while tightening.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5386312#post5386312

You should print spring tube adapters that fit the springs you manage to source. A 13 mm ID would probably work for both 9x19 and .45ACP. However 11 mm is probably a better fit for the 9's.


Regarding your suggestion about shrinkage, I don't really see why that would be directional without warping the print in other directions. The only thing I see is that the top/bottom layers with the settings I've run are aligned with 45° & -45° but I think the perimiters would try to counteract that, especially on layers where there is only 10% infill.
Anyway, I'll try printing with concentric bottom/top layers rather than lines and see if that makes the round parts come out round.

[JStuhlmiller]

This is the one.
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

what is your current feeder/motor?

My current feeder motor is that one. I guess I was looking for something with a bit more power.

[TylerR]

My current feeder motor is that one. I guess I was looking for something with a bit more power.

something might be up with that motor. I have run 1000 9mm in the 300mm collator with that motor. The other option is the original. https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DC-Gearmotor-12V-DC-52JE51?isShellOptimized=true

[bubbadoyle]

Should mention basically brand new to 3D printing, I got 30'ish rolls of different brand filaments and am trying them all out and eSUN rocks! (Great choice there mate!) Measurementwise I have A LOT better tolerances with PetG (same with the PctG I tried so far) proving to have much less shrinkage and seemingly equal in strength to PLA+ (actually slightly better in strength, also better properties regarding heat resistance, uv, chemicals asf) So if you have the possibility to print PetG it might be a grand idea to try out a roll and check out if the benefits helps out. It sure gives me much better tolerances, one thing I'm trying out is making 100mm cubes and they come out 99,76mm x 99,76mm x 99,76mm, that is no fiddling with settings at all with eSUN solid red & solid blue (looks more like Orange & Dark Marineblue in my eyes tho)
I tried a handful of sky blue/light blue brands PetG since eSUN does not have any light blue options that comes close to Dillonpress-blue. They all have one thing in common, they are sheit compared to eSUN PetG! Much much weaker, stringing, clogging and just a nightmare. Just cleaned clogs in the Nozzle/Extruder and the AMS *phew* literally stayed up most of the night because I get totally in to crepe when I do stuff :0
Anyways mate, with my humble findings I think it might be advantageous for your dilemma to check out eSUN's PetG. (Not their transparent stuff tho, go with the Solids)
Hope that is of some help...

(PS. If youre Swedish or the Northern frozen over bungholio as yours truly, just notice Elefun has surprisingly nice price on the eSUN PetG right now 215Sek (like 20 bucks) so I'm ordering 15-20 more rolls today since I plan on dragging my shooting mates in to TyleR and JsSeth's wonderfully amazingly hypnotizing projects! :))

I have at least four roll of esun petg. I had great results with the first roll. I have one roll that once I got 3/4 of the way through it, it was like it was glued together and very brittle. Couldn’t print ten minutes without it breaking the filament. I have a spool of red that worked great and once again, when I was 3/4 of the way through it I ran into thick and thin spots. The thick blobs caused it to jam up and stop. I’m still looking for a good quality petg as I definitely like it’s properties over pla for many prints. I eventually plan to get an enclosure so I can print ASA and ABS as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[GWS]

Same Dayton Motor $10 cheaper here: https://www.zoro.com/dayton-dc-gearmotor-nameplate-rpm-12-130a-52je51/i/G6617829/?recommended=true

Grainger has become a price gouger. That motor is all I use now....but not as cheap as the one you have.

[M500]

This one is even cheaper.

https://www.zoro.com/molon-dc-gearmotor-12-rpm-12v-vented-chm-1212-1m/i/G100461364/

A list of molon motors;

https://molon.com/dc-motors-gearmotors/pm-parallel-shaft-gearmotors/chm-dc-detail

[Dosch]

I figured out why my prints came out oval.
My X gantry was not perpendicular to the frame.

[GWS]

Dosch......I wondered about that but I didn't know enough to even address it. Now I remember Creality warned me to check the gantry and use a square and tighten the bolts once square......I had forgotten about that.

As for the Motor questions.....45acp from Sweden talked me into modifying the "normal" and "300" versions of Tyler's collator bases. Reason was he had a hard time getting the usual choices in Sweden, but he found the one in the link below, and so I modified the bases to fit it.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832874077081.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21e f1802gIgkTB&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

Looks well built, and the price is $24 before shipping to start with....so that might be another option.....the 10rpm one would be my choice.

Here's the modified .stls:310726 If it works out TylerR might could add those two files to the list.

[JStuhlmiller]

I have at least four roll of esun petg. I had great results with the first roll. I have one roll that once I got 3/4 of the way through it, it was like it was glued together and very brittle. Couldn’t print ten minutes without it breaking the filament. I have a spool of red that worked great and once again, when I was 3/4 of the way through it I ran into thick and thin spots. The thick blobs caused it to jam up and stop. I’m still looking for a good quality petg as I definitely like it’s properties over pla for many prints. I eventually plan to get an enclosure so I can print ASA and ABS as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

when that happens its wet. Use a filament dryer and it will be good as new.

[JStuhlmiller]

I am getting occasional upside down 9mm 115gn bullets any advice? Thanks.

[Sig]

I am getting occasional upside down 9mm 115gn bullets any advice? Thanks.

I would try tilting the hopper back a little more.

[bubbadoyle]

when that happens its wet. Use a filament dryer and it will be good as new.

I did dry these and had the same issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[DestructionDan]

Before I order the spring, I wanted to make sure this would work for the parts.
McMaster Item # 9664K26 OD 0.563" Wire Diameter 0.063" for the 14.5/12 adapter 9mm bullets.
Thanks

[azlester]

I have at least four roll of esun petg. I had great results with the first roll. I have one roll that once I got 3/4 of the way through it, it was like it was glued together and very brittle. Couldn’t print ten minutes without it breaking the filament. I have a spool of red that worked great and once again, when I was 3/4 of the way through it I ran into thick and thin spots. The thick blobs caused it to jam up and stop. I’m still looking for a good quality petg as I definitely like it’s properties over pla for many prints. I eventually plan to get an enclosure so I can print ASA and ABS as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

A lot of people are raving about the PETG that this company is putting out... zero complaints about any of the filament.. https://californiafilament.com/

[JStuhlmiller]

I did dry these and had the same issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have found that on some filaments I actually have to dry it for 2.5 days. Although I have gotten terrible filament that no matter what I tried it still was terrible. I switched to another brand, dried it and voila. If its RH is ~15% then maybe time to try another brand.

[JStuhlmiller]

Anyone else use the photosensor drop tubes with DAA bullet feeder dies? the knobs fit great but the center hole is a tad small and the bottom hole to fit the DAA die is way small?

[GWS]

Before I order the spring, I wanted to make sure this would work for the parts.
McMaster Item # 9664K26 OD 0.563" Wire Diameter 0.063" for the 14.5/12 adapter 9mm bullets.
Thanks

Look at page 12 in the manual.....14.5mm = .571 inches...You don't want the spring OD more than that....it appears your .563 complies. Yet ID, by subtracting the wire diameter twice (both sides) gives .563 - .126 = .437 is bigger than 9mm/.354. or 10mm/.394 but not .45 (11.43mm)

So it appears your choice of wire diameter will not work for .45. Just so you know. Maybe there is a smaller wire size available?.....or maybe you're fine with and expecting to use another bigger adapter and spring for .45.

.063 wire size is really heavy and stiff.....way stiffer than anything used by DAA or Hornady. I know....I ordered that wiresize for .223......works and bullets sure can't deflect it....at all! ;) But obviously, ID compared to OD is a bigger difference.

[Corbindallas]

Hi
I have been reading this thread off and on for a while but finally decided that I will give it a try and make me a brass and bullet feeder to help me make it more fun.
I already have a 3D printer (Prusa Mk3s) and a Dillon 750.
Having read the manual, and looked at the parts generator thingie, I still have a couple of questions.
What would be the easiest way to install these onto the press? I’m thinking some kind of round tubing that fits into the original tube on the 750.
I’m reloading mainly 38/357 caliber, but did not find that option in the partsgenerator. Will 9 mm work?
As I’m in the EU, I saw a recommendation for a 634js motor at Amazon, will that have anything to do with what choice I need to make for the coupler (hex or cross-shaft)?
Big thanks to all that has made this possible, very cool!
Thanks

[GWS]

Hi
I have been reading this thread off and on for a while but finally decided that I will give it a try and make me a brass and bullet feeder to help me make it more fun.
I already have a 3D printer (Prusa Mk3s) and a Dillon 750.
Having read the manual, and looked at the parts generator thingie, I still have a couple of questions.
What would be the easiest way to install these onto the press? I’m thinking some kind of round tubing that fits into the original tube on the 750.
I’m reloading mainly 38/357 caliber, but did not find that option in the partsgenerator. Will 9 mm work?
As I’m in the EU, I saw a recommendation for a 634js motor at Amazon, will that have anything to do with what choice I need to make for the coupler (hex or cross-shaft)?
Big thanks to all that has made this possible, very cool!
Thanks

TylerR and others who have blue presses can best answer the first question, so wait for them. But as for 38/357 caliber collator plates for bullets, print the "small pistol" one. For the long cases the large pistol CASE collator plate works better in my experience, since the big holes give the cases a fraction longer to fall and not get hung by the turning plate. Obviously longer cases require more time to fall so you may even need to slow down your collator rotation speed compared to shorter cases, and I'd set the plate height to print taller in the "Z"direction than normal to better stabilize the tall cases.

So you don't have a Dillon Case Collator?

Another motor that fits the 50X50 mm square mount bases I posted in a previous video above. Notice the interesting Motor speed video (bottom left of picture)..... https://www.amazon.com/DC12V-Motor-Adjustable-Torque-150rpm/dp/B07GBS2B4K/ref=psdc_306577011_t3_B071XCWM2J?th=1

The 10 rpm one....top second to the left.

[Corbindallas]

and I'd set the plate height to print taller in the "Z"direction than normal to better stabilize the tall cases.

Thanks
What does this mean? I need to print the plate higher?



So you don't have a Dillon Case Collator?

No, when buying the 750 I already had the idea to either buy one from Dillon or print my own. Took me a while to decide though.
Reading and seeing all the info here made me want to try to make one myself.

[r4ndy]

Hi
I have been reading this thread off and on for a while but finally decided that I will give it a try and make me a brass and bullet feeder to help me make it more fun.
I already have a 3D printer (Prusa Mk3s) and a Dillon 750.
Having read the manual, and looked at the parts generator thingie, I still have a couple of questions.
What would be the easiest way to install these onto the press? I’m thinking some kind of round tubing that fits into the original tube on the 750.
I’m reloading mainly 38/357 caliber, but did not find that option in the partsgenerator. Will 9 mm work?
As I’m in the EU, I saw a recommendation for a 634js motor at Amazon, will that have anything to do with what choice I need to make for the coupler (hex or cross-shaft)?
Big thanks to all that has made this possible, very cool!
Thanks

In the contributors section of the files see <edited> KC10 Kevin Dillon Mount

There are files to connect a square tube to the post on the Dillon. Works awesome! Please ignore my bad cable dressing.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230222/cac440bbb7c09e2fbd812c19e94cf3e4.jpg

[JStuhlmiller]

In the contributors section of the files see Tander’s Dillon…

There are files to connect a 1” square tube to the post on the Dillon. Works awesome! Please ignore my bad cable dressing.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230222/cac440bbb7c09e2fbd812c19e94cf3e4.jpg

r4ndy,

Great setup. I see you are using the photosensor did you have an issue getting the bullet feeder die to sit on the DAA feeder die? Mine doesn't fit.

[GWS]

Thanks
What does this mean? I need to print the plate higher?

I'll do my best to explain.....

1. First go to and open the Parts Generator.....then click on the right tab which says, "Collator Plate Generator." You should see the picture below:

https://i.postimg.cc/Sx4B5Ch9/Large-Pistol-Plate-Parameters.jpg

2. Then on the right under "Orientation", pick "Base Down Brass Plate."

3. Under "Caliber", pick "Large Pistol." (below that you'll see red print....that describes how to preview your plate...go ahead and preview it before you make the height change......then "X" out of that and get back to the previous screen.)

4. Then on the LEFT side it lists the parameters for the plate design.....first one says caliber 15....second one says Collator_Plate... 8. That second one means the plate will print 8 millimeters high.....a .357 case is 32mm high! Too low for a tall wobbly case....so change that # to 16 as shown in my illustration....it'll work MUCH better! Now preview it again and it should look like the picture below:

https://i.postimg.cc/hPVFpMHg/Preview-Large-Pistol-plate-16-high.jpg

Notice the next to the last parameter..... should say, "collator_Plate....180" This time it's Plate diameter and 180 is the normal size plate which is plenty big for pistol bullets.....if you want it for 300 size or Mongo base, you'll need to change that number.

Then just save to a .STL by pressing "Gen" next to where you did the previews......make your G-code file, and print.

.357/.38 wasn't included in TylerR's list of plates because he doesn't shoot that....so he wouldn't want to print one for it.

You will also want to print a brass slide and drop tube....and a short plug for the normal bullet drop hole. Somewhere is a brass slide that doesn't have the opening adjustable....it's just wide open. You can use the adjustable one, but use the tightening screw to hold it wide open or you will not drop them fast enough not to hang.

Food for thought......You really can choose the "small pistol" rather than "large pistol" as the holes in the small one are 12mm diameter and the large one's holes are 15mm. But what I found is that sometimes longer cases get hung up, when they don't drop fast enough....IOW's a smaller hole's trailing edge may beat the long case to the edge of the drop hole.....leaving you with the choice to slow it down to a crawl. The 15mm hole doesn't seem to cause problems and that edge doesn't come as fast. I suppose if 2 cases doubled together you might have a problem, but I just haven't seen that. But nothing wrong with trying the small pistol size, but why if the large one works.....and you can also use it for .45. IOW's why print 3 plates when one or two work for what you shoot.

[Corbindallas]

In the contributors section of the files see Tander’s Dillon…

There are files to connect a 1” square tube to the post on the Dillon. Works awesome! Please ignore my bad cable dressing.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230222/cac440bbb7c09e2fbd812c19e94cf3e4.jpg

Nice, this would absolutely work for me as well. Is that the small or large electronics box that you printed?

[Corbindallas]

Thanks GWS
I understand much better now. I´ll go for the large one as I in that case also can use it for 44 Mag (I only reload revolver calibers as that is what I mostly shoot).

How about the plate for the bullet feeder, do I need to use the collator plate generetor also for this one as 38/357 is missing, or do any of the other work?

[r4ndy]

r4ndy,

Great setup. I see you are using the photosensor did you have an issue getting the bullet feeder die to sit on the DAA feeder die? Mine doesn't fit.

I had to file and sand it to get it to fit.

[r4ndy]

Nice, this would absolutely work for me as well. Is that the small or large electronics box that you printed?

IIRC this is an alternate box someone else created. I believe it is in the contributors folder. If you can’t find it I can do some searching and come up with more info. I definitely got it either from the contributors or someone on this forum thread. I did drill a hole to add the middle switch for the press light.

[r4ndy]

@corbindallas and @JStuhmiller - apologies - I got my wires crossed. I should have waited until I was in front of the PC rather than trying to use my memory.

The box I used is from Tanders Dillon Setup (https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/9.%20Contributors/Tanders%20Dillon%20Setup.zip) in the contributors files.

The mount is from KC10 Kevin Double Dillon Mount (https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/9.%20Contributors/Kc10kevin_Dillon_Double_Mount.zip) in the contributor files

[GWS]

Thanks GWS
I understand much better now. I´ll go for the large one as I in that case also can use it for 44 Mag (I only reload revolver calibers as that is what I mostly shoot).

How about the plate for the bullet feeder, do I need to use the collator plate generator also for this one as 38/357 is missing, or do any of the other work?

No. For .357, just use the very good Small Pistol Bullet Plate #5. The critical part there is the angle of the collator and the slide plate and its distance out from the base......use the hole in the back of the slide and screw in a hex bolt. That will give you the fine adjustment needed to keep your bullets that are base down from falling off the edge and flipping like the nose down bullets are supposed to do.

The slide is the #5 BNU. (bullet nose up)

https://i.postimg.cc/Bbvxchj8/Pistol-Bullet-Collator-Plate-Small-5.png

[Corbindallas]

Sorry for all the newbie questions, but when using the Collator Plate generator and use preview, a window pops up, but nothing is shown. If I press "generate", it lets me know that a plate is generated with name as per description, but I can not find the file.
So I´m guessing I´m doing something wrong. I did download and install OpenScad without changing anything.

[GWS]

Go up to my post with the illustrations of the program.

The first line says "OpenScad Location" make sure that location is really where your OpenScad download resides. If not change that line to where it is.

The generated files should appear in the folder where your TylerR download is. The generation of a plate takes a little time....be patient.

TylerR may have more to add. He has a lot more experience and insight on this.

[Corbindallas]

Got it to work now, Thanks!

[stanford]

GWS, I need a favor. I want to re-print the main body "Main_Body_ETZGMP38" because I am tired of my cases getting stuck in the screw holes on the side of the body. I have tried putting screws in the holes but the tip of the cases always get stuck in the holes. Can you modify the body and remove the holes for the screw so I can re-print.

I added a picture with the holes that I would like removed on the sides, I don't use those holes for anything.

310819

[GWS]

That wouldn't be hard to do, but it's a lot of trouble and time for you to print another one. if it were me, I'd get some black epoxy putty from Home Depot and fill the holes.

[stanford]

That wouldn't be hard to do, but it's a lot of trouble and time for you to print another one. if it were me, I'd get some black epoxy putty from Home Depot and fill the holes.

Let me give that a shot and see what happens.

[johnpcace]

No. For .357, just use the very good Small Pistol Bullet Plate #5. The critical part there is the angle of the collator and the slide plate and its distance out from the base......use the hole in the back of the slide and screw in a hex bolt. That will give you the fine adjustment needed to keep your bullets that are base down from falling off the edge and flipping like the nose down bullets are supposed to do.

The slide is the #5 BNU. (bullet nose up)

https://i.postimg.cc/Bbvxchj8/Pistol-Bullet-Collator-Plate-Small-5.png

Any chance you could post a picture of the screw and angle of the collator? I think I know what you're saying

[GWS]

Any chance you could post a picture of the screw and angle of the collator? I think I know what you're saying
https://i.postimg.cc/C1dSCHcj/Nose-Up-5-Front.jpg

The #5 slider above.....below is the backside of the slider showing the hole made for a hexhead machine screw. I Think an M3 will self thread into the hole....it's recessed so you can screw it in flush to start....then back it out until it works right.

https://i.postimg.cc/FRqmTd6w/back-view.jpg

The angle of the collator is set by trial & error.

Notice the raised surface part of the slider in the first picture. When you insert it all the way into the base, the plate may or may not have enough of the raised slider surface showing under the holes to keep the base of the bullet on that raised surface. So you adjust the plate out until it does.....but at the same time not so much that the points of the bullets refuse to fall down to the lower level where they can turn and flip base side down.

Now for the collator angle: You want the minimum amount of raised surface showing because too much and bullet tips wont fall, too little and even the basedowns fall....not a good thing either, because then they also flip. So to get that "minimum" you want enough angle where base down bullets will lean into the inside edges of the holes and not require very much raised surface under them (so they don't lean the other way and fall).

Clear as mud right? But you can see why it's trial and error because every bullet shape and size will be different. ;)

[johnpcace]

https://i.postimg.cc/C1dSCHcj/Nose-Up-5-Front.jpg

The #5 slider above.....below is the backside of the slider showing the hole made for a hexhead machine screw. I Think an M3 will self thread into the hole....it's recessed so you can screw it in flush to start....then back it out until it works right.

https://i.postimg.cc/FRqmTd6w/back-view.jpg

The angle of the collator is set by trial & error.

Notice the raised surface part of the slider in the first picture. When you insert it all the way into the base, the plate may or may not have enough of the raised slider surface showing under the holes to keep the base of the bullet on that raised surface. So you adjust the plate out until it does.....but at the same time not so much that the points of the bullets refuse to fall down to the lower level where they can turn and flip base side down.

Now for the collator angle: You want the minimum amount of raised surface showing because too much and bullet tips wont fall, too little and even the basedowns fall....not a good thing either, because then [I]they[I] also flip. So to get that "minimum" you want enough angle where base down bullets will lean into the inside edges of the holes and not require very much raised surface under them (so they don't lean the other way and fall).

Clear as mud right? But you can see why it's trial and error because every bullet shape and size will be different. ;)

thank you! I got it..

[Corbindallas]

Took me a few days, but now I have read through the whole thread. Interesting to find out how it all has developed, great job!
I have discovered that I might “need” an APP press as well though. I did not know that before this thread …
I’m guessing that it would be possible to use an APP both for bullet sizing and de-prime without to much trouble changing whatever needs to be changed between those tasks?

[johnpcace]

Ok, So during the process of making a few of the Collators I have run into a few problems that annoyed me to no end. One being the electrical box template having a ton of unnecessary holes in it for the amount of heat the 2 little boards produce and that the slide lid in my opinion was terrible. I wanted a lid that screwed on and a box that was easy to adjust and service if needed. I have completely redesigned the box and lid. I have included the file here for others to use. I have tested this and it works fantastic.

The other thing that was annoying was that the drop tubes for the light sensor setup the center holes were a tad tight and the bottom hole was not big enough for the DAA bullet feeder dies. I don't want to spend 5 or 6 hours printing a drop tube to have to modify it, besides that I didn't have the proper size drill bits to modify anyways. So I spent the time with tinkercad and Fusion 360 modifying the files.

I also labeled the tube with caliber instead of MM. 12mm and 12.2 mm doesn't mean anything to most of us Yanks but 45 ACP is pretty clear. you will have to print these drop tubes with a brim because of the reduced meat at the bottom of the die. They work flawlessly. I also print 100% infill because I think the extra weight on the BF die works in your favor.311146311147311148

[GWS]

I have printed several electrical boxes....only the first one with screws. I much prefer the tool-less sliding top.;)

I also choose to mount them under the collators...probably has a lot to do with my shorter stature. Pictures below show the one I like now, for my preferred proximity sensor drop tubes. I find them much more trouble-free than light sensors. But we are all different....float your boat the way you see fit.

https://i.postimg.cc/qvk36z4y/IMG-3975.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/021mxV4t/IMG_3978.jpg

The above box does require a tiny hole conversion part to align holes under the base to the two holes in the box that are aligned with holes in the little electronic switch and speed control board that I like. The three files, box, lid, and mount are in my little folder in the "contributors" folder. I also list all the electronic parts I like to use. TylerR has his favorite boxes and parts too. The best part is we can all choose and buy what works best for us.

Sorry you've had some annoyances.....guess I was luckier.....no annoyances yet, accept those caused by the 3D printer learning curve.

[GWS]

Took me a few days, but now I have read through the whole thread. Interesting to find out how it all has developed, great job!
I have discovered that I might “need” an APP press as well though. I did not know that before this thread …
I’m guessing that it would be possible to use an APP both for bullet sizing and de-prime without to much trouble changing whatever needs to be changed between those tasks?

I've never sized a boolit in my life, so I wouldn't know, but I have looked at the product, and it seems to be just a move from case feeding to bullet feeding and the bullets are pushed down instead of primers and pushed through the sizer.

I have used the primer pocket swager tool and if you take the time to go through the instructions carefully, it works better than any other such tool.....especially in that it has a case feeder and the other tools don't.

Others who do use the bullet sizer, need to answer your question better than I have. Just don't have the experience with it.

[Corbindallas]

First part printed, unfortunately the green filment only lasted to about 70%, but final result wasn’t to bad anyway.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/d1de8c8e2539ea096bec3cc97a841f6b.jpg

[GWS]

I'll say not....if you hadn't said different, I would have thought you did that on purpose! Looks great!

[Corbindallas]

You do actually want to print it as pictured in the manual. that little tab should be on the build plate. Use support touching build plate only, 60% overhang angle. Brim if you need it.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/748652796513091659/934272634189910046/unknown.png

I recently added the "APP_Base_Slide_Long". The front part that pushes the base of the brass is longer, and it is geared towards smaller dia. brass like .223.

I’m about to print this part but feel a bit stupid, what does 60% overhang angle mean? How does it look like in the slicer?

[GWS]

There is a setting in your browser......tells the printer to print supports under anything that is overhanging more than a ___ Degree angle. I'm assuming the percent sign should have been the degree symbol???? and he's asking for the angle to be 60?

It not, I don't know what Tyler's asking for......hang around and see if he's around to respond. If that isn't it, I don't have a clue.

[TylerR]

I’m about to print this part but feel a bit stupid, what does 60% overhang angle mean? How does it look like in the slicer?

Here it is loaded in to Cura.


https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/808109576188198942/1081821019595092079/appslide.png?width=1440&height=590

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/1081829061321576529/image.png

[Corbindallas]

Thanks,
I’m using Prusa slicer, but looking at the picture I believe I can use a support enforcer just on the lower part of the base slide.
Using Prusa, enabling supports on build plate only, will create supports on other parts of the base slide also. I’m not an advanced user so maybe there are better ways to do it in prusa as well. I’ll try and see what happens.

I’ve started to order parts to the build, and I noticed that the link in the manual to the prox sensor seems to be dead. But I’ve understood that you need an inductive NC 18mm diameter with at least 8mm distance capability.
Will any of these work?

https://www.amazon.se/Heschen-närhetssensor-PR18-8DN2-cylindrisk-icke-skärmad/dp/B081DGFYN8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3SHJ0XDCO8TLE&keywords=proximity+sensor+12v&qid=1677961179&sprefix=proximity+sensor+12v%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-3

Or this one?
https://www.amazon.se/närhetssensor-omkopplare-närhetsdetektion-nickelpläterad-LJ18A3-8-Z/dp/B07RBJCRQ8/ref=sr_1_42?adgrpid=133754071628&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9YugBhCZARIsAACXxeIAuWSbjIXiiiFLCLVi MH5YqWAv6txjoksBTHB7pVrxwrx1Nt6aFWMaAukvEALw_wcB&hvadid=535398917692&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1012661&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=3305018404154155498&hvtargid=kwd-295990703414&hydadcr=28335_2290566&keywords=inductive+proximity+sensor&qid=1677961298&sr=8-42&language=en_GB

[M500]

The link in the manual is up again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What you are looking for is the PRD18-14DN2 model. The others you referenced have a shorter sensing distance. May or may not work. More info here:

https://hvhindustrial.com/pdfs/7_PRD_20161025_W.pdf

Also note there is DN2 and DP2. They are not the same. The N connects the trigger wire to ground where the P connects the trigger wire to positive voltage.

[rsp111]

I have been playing with feeding rifle bullets lately to run in a Lee ACP for pointing purposes for Fclass shooting, one thing that is happening is the bullets are hammering the tips they drop on the next. For precision shooting this is not good. I am trying to figure out a way to slow the drop without introducing feeding issues. Anybody have good idea's for this?

[TylerR]

I have been playing with feeding rifle bullets lately to run in a Lee ACP for pointing purposes for Fclass shooting, one thing that is happening is the bullets are hammering the tips they drop on the next. For precision shooting this is not good. I am trying to figure out a way to slow the drop without introducing feeding issues. Anybody have good idea's for this?

Use the alt drop tube and mount the sensor just under the collator so the spring stays filled with bullets. Gently pre-fill the spring by hand prior to running the collator.

[rsp111]

Ok, I have had a few of those half twist drop tube connector pieces printed,but the tolerances seem too tight and I have broke a few while twisting to the locked possition. Any advice on that?

[TylerR]

Ok, I have had a few of those half twist drop tube connector pieces printed,but the tolerances seem too tight and I have broke a few while twisting to the locked possition. Any advice on that?

printer calibration. they are designed to have the correct tolerance to give a snug fit. if they don't fit then the printer is off on dimensions in some fashion. Also be sure to be printing with .12 layers or lower.

[GWS]

Tyler.....been playing around with DesignSpark again......if successful it could mean your bullet feeders could feed and seat in the same station....

Just preliminary.....I'll keep you all posted.....

https://i.postimg.cc/BQGzfH1J/1_Station_FeednSeat.jpg

Rose part gets pushed by a sub shell plate up into a feeder...bullet drops down the ramp into the windowed seater die. Simple.;)

For a windowed seating die, for example like this one.....

https://i.postimg.cc/C12V41vz/GoldMedalDie.jpg

[TylerR]

Tyler.....been playing around with DesignSpark again......if successful it could mean your bullet feeders could feed and seat in the same station....

Just preliminary.....I'll keep you all posted.....

Rose part gets pushed by a sub shell plate up into a feeder...bullet drops down the ramp into the windowed seater die. Simple.;)

For a windowed seating die, for example like this one.....


That looks very cool. I am not sure I fully understand how it works but I am sure you will explain it. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

[GWS]

That looks very cool. I am not sure I fully understand how it works but I am sure you will explain it. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

It isn't a final design, but you have to start somewhere.:) I printed it out today, and my threads are too tight. Don't know where the fit is off. But the only thing you have in the downloads is the plastic die nut.....I tried to copy it, but without the design parameters, it will be trial and error......so far no joy.

The plan is to make a universal connector between feed dies and seaters, NOT different connector for every caliber.......may be dreaming, but I'm going to give it a serious try, if I can get those female threads right.

Already, having printed the first try, I see where the half moon insert has to be redesigned or added to, because some of your feeders are pushed by the cases inside the die, not from below the die like the 9mm one. (I should have been more observant!:))

[TylerR]

It isn't a final design, but you have to start somewhere.:) I printed it out today, and my threads are too tight. Don't know where the fit is off. But the only thing you have in the downloads is the plastic die nut.....I tried to copy it, but without the design parameters, it will be trial and error......so far no joy.

The plan is to make a universal connector between feed dies and seaters, NOT different connector for every caliber.......may be dreaming, but I'm going to give it a serious try, if I can get those female threads right.

Already, having printed the first try, I see where the half moon insert has to be redesigned or added to, because some of your feeders are pushed by the cases inside the die, not from below the die like the 9mm one. (I should have been more observant!:))

Just sent you an email that will hopefully help.

[GWS]

Talk about timely.....I had just finished another thread design and your tool is looser still....so I did a saveas #3 and tooled once more with yours........will let you know how it did when I get another print done. Thankyou! There are no really clear videos on doing 3D printed threads to fit existing.....lots of methods, and lots of wondering who's right. You want loose but not too loose....a slow trial and error exercise.

Your bullet feeder dies nailed the male thread.....so I'm expecting great things from the female tool.:)

I think I figured out the pusher insert. We will see today.

[Mbeavers1]

Hi, I have just started printing and am ordering all the parts. The link for the switch seems to be broken. Is there an alternate part for this?

[TylerR]

Hi, I have just started printing and am ordering all the parts. The link for the switch seems to be broken. Is there an alternate part for this?

I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Q3WJW8Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Mbeavers1]

I also found the spring kit is unavailable. If anyone is looking this one appears to have all the same springs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG5W6M4Z?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_BYGXHAW4EADZJGAMCJ 7N

[ranger391xt]

For anyone near Menards that is looking for the spring set, they have one that appears to be the same as the one on Amazon...

Sontax[emoji2400] Spring Assortment Kit - 200 Piece at Menards https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444421806881.htm

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[johnpcace]

looks cool

[johnpcace]

Anyone using an Hornady LNL AP Press? looks like the drop tube with sensors hits the side of the powder funnel. I was wondering how Y'all got around that?312328

[Sig]

Anyone using an Hornady LNL AP Press? looks like the drop tube with sensors hits the side of the powder funnel. I was wondering how Y'all got around that?312328

There's an offset listed in the files. The green piece in the pic.

312351

[Gillie Dog]

Hello "Making that Bullet Collator" thread. I just completed my first collator with the guidance of GWS without whom it would not have happened. And of course all the incredible work of TylerR has done for all of us. Unbelievable.

I have read the thread start to finish and hope to not ask things I have missed.

I am to the point of using the generator to build a collator plate and after reviewing the settings in the manual am wondering if there is a rule of thumb for height of the plate. Is there a problem with running a 17mm tall bullet with a 13mm collator plate? Going to make a .308 plate for M1 Carbine and with the standard 13mm or 18 mm plates was just wondering about it. I see any possible height is available but if a standard height works why not use it. Before a long print I thought I would ask.

Thanks

GD

[GWS]

My experience with pistol bullets is with a Hornady Pistol Collator that I modified to flip bullets, so that's why I'm not the best person to ask this question. I've made 4 collators now, but for pistol and rifle cases, and rifle bullets.....yeah that's 3, the fourth was my first try with Ammo Mikes tiny one that I use on my APP still.....again for rifle bullets and pistol cases and small rifle cases up to .223.

That said, I encourage others to share their experience on plate height and bullet collators. I will say that the Hornady only has one plate and it's thick, and works for everything from 9mm to .357mag, to .45 Acp. So one plate does all. So my first reaction to Gillie Dog's question is that I'd probably start with the 18mm tall one and would expect it to work for most bullets skinny enough to fall in.....I'd probably do .45 caliber and try it with skinnier calibers before I print a plate with skinnier holes.

What say you guys with more experience with pistol collators 3D printed?

[tt365]

I'm betting that the existing plate will work fine. The only one I found a desire to fiddle with was my .380ACP bullets that were near cylindrical. It worked most of the time, but I found that it would hold 2 bullets stacked up in the slots. So it was possible to get one upside down as a result. Or just wedged and stuck. I found adjusting the size helped a lot in that case. In a case where the bullets are a little taller than the plate, you're probably fine. My rifle bullets are a bit taller than the plate and they sort great.

Also try to make sure that you can't stand 2 up side by side in the slots. That's less likely in most cases I would think.

It can feel "wasted" to print and find it won't work for you, but hang on to it unless it's a completely bad print. The "normal" pistol plate didn't work well for those 380 bullets, but it works great for 9mm and 38 special. If I had to pick one to recommend, I'd say use the 13mm. It would eliminate the possibility that you could end up with 2 stacked in the slot, so long as it's tipped back a little so gravity pulls the "extra" off easily. But it doesn't seem likely with only 1mm clearance, so I'm thinking that either will work for your carbine rounds.

[Gillie Dog]

It can feel "wasted" to print and find it won't work for you, but hang on to it unless it's a completely bad print. The "normal" pistol plate didn't work well for those 380 bullets, but it works great for 9mm and 38 special. If I had to pick one to recommend, I'd say use the 13mm. It would eliminate the possibility that you could end up with 2 stacked in the slot, so long as it's tipped back a little so gravity pulls the "extra" off easily. But it doesn't seem likely with only 1mm clearance, so I'm thinking that either will work for your carbine rounds.

Thanks I will give it a try.

With the "bullet_caliber" setting (an adder to bullet diameter for the holes I believe) recommended at 1 to 1.5mm and default to 1.2 it should be easy to tune it in.

I will print and see how it goes.

Thanks again

GD

[GWS]

Keep in mind you have the flipper feature on the right side of the collator opening....you really don't want bullets sticking up to interfere with it. I prefer my plates to be taller than the bullets by at least some. The 9mm round nose I have, measure 15mm tall. 17mm plates recess them by a whole 2mm, so if a bullet double stacks the flipper will send it to the bottom. I prefer that to possible interference with the flipper with bullets sticking up. On that note, I admit I never in my life have loaded .380.....and never will. Way inferior to 9mm or larger calibers, IMO.

[akochevar]

I apologize in advance if this is an already covered topic but I could not find what I was looking for in the search. I printed the bullet feed dies last night and for the life of me cannot see how the ball bearings are supposed to be assembled. Also, I did end up having quite a bit of interference between the 2 parts that I assume was printer calibrations. Ill work that out, but if anyone has any instructions on assembling and testing I would appreciate it.

[GWS]

page 15 of the manual:

https://i.postimg.cc/3R4gL4pd/Feed-Dies-Page-15.jpg

2 ball bearing 2 sets of 3 holes. One bearing per side. Which hole depends on the length of your bullet. But use the same hole on each side. Top middle or bottom....one should work. Notice the page talks about acetone to smooth the walls and make the two parts fit....try that first. TylerR may add some tried and true wisdom to this simple explanation.....

These obviously, are not as robust as steel ones.....but if you just use care and don't abuse them they should last a long time....just don't knock them around. I speak from experience. :roll: Love the things.... if you don't use a polypropylene bed, get one and save yourself some grief.

https://www.amazon.com/3103103mm-Mamorubot-Platform-Polypropylene-Adhesive/dp/B07JC9LQTY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mamorubot&qid=1635802575&sr=8-1

My part "A"'s never fall over with this bed at 215C nozzle and 65C bed. No glue, tape or rafts ever required

[akochevar]

I got everything fiting together nicely. It seems like the ball bearings are supposed to fit "just right" into the holes without going all the way through, is that true?

[GWS]

If they went all the way though they would be on the floor and of no use.

[silahtar]

First part printed, unfortunately the green filment only lasted to about 70%, but final result wasn’t to bad anyway.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/d1de8c8e2539ea096bec3cc97a841f6b.jpg

Haha, same thing happened to me, that was why I suggested separating the bottom and side wall that are later held together by screws... Looks good though...

[RHohman]

Hello to all. I have been wanting to thank some folks in the group. I could not post because I missed my confirming email and that got fixed today! So thanks out to TylerR, GWS and AmmoMike who got me going down this rabbit hole. Tyler your bullet feeders are awesome, as well as the work that you have put into this project. GWS for jumping in and answering questions and helping people figure things out. I have read ( over a month) this entire thread. Kept notes so I didn't have to ask newbie questions. I have built the bullet collator and printed some of the plates as well. In 2016 I made my own case feeder using an old cut down 5 gallon bucket. It works for .223, .308, 45acp, 38 and 357 brass. I have just finished building a 3d printer with a bed size of X 325mm, Y 415mm & Z 574mm. I well as the bullet Collator works, I have to build a Mongo case feeder to go with the Bullet Collator. When I figure out how to upload a picture, I will upload a picture of my setup.
I would also like to share where I have gotten some of my parts. One is a place called AllElectronics. I have gotten 3 amp and 10 amp speed controller for motors. The motor that I used on my case feeder is from them as well. They have relays, opto relays that I use as the opto interrupter to stop the motor. These have been going since the fall of 2016 and no issues at all. I use the same items on the Bullet Collator. I will Add a link to the store (hope thats ok, if not let me know and I will remove it)
The motor (like the dayton one different mounting Dimensions) https://www.allelectronics.com/item/dcm-351/24-vdc-gear-motor-w/turntable/1.html The turntable is easily removed. I am modifing the Mongo Stl to accommodate this motor.
Light Controlled relay https://www.allelectronics.com/item/prm-1/light-actuated-relay-module-12-vdc/1.html Lots of connectors, switches and other cool stuff.

[RHohman]

Guess I should have read the stickies before posting..... Here is my soon to be changed setup.
312943

[TylerR]

Hello to all. I have been wanting to thank some folks in the group. I could not post because I missed my confirming email and that got fixed today! So thanks out to TylerR, GWS and AmmoMike who got me going down this rabbit hole. Tyler your bullet feeders are awesome, as well as the work that you have put into this project. GWS for jumping in and answering questions and helping people figure things out. I have read ( over a month) this entire thread. Kept notes so I didn't have to ask newbie questions. I have built the bullet collator and printed some of the plates as well. In 2016 I made my own case feeder using an old cut down 5 gallon bucket. It works for .223, .308, 45acp, 38 and 357 brass. I have just finished building a 3d printer with a bed size of X 325mm, Y 415mm & Z 574mm. I well as the bullet Collator works, I have to build a Mongo case feeder to go with the Bullet Collator. When I figure out how to upload a picture, I will upload a picture of my setup.
I would also like to share where I have gotten some of my parts. One is a place called AllElectronics. I have gotten 3 amp and 10 amp speed controller for motors. The motor that I used on my case feeder is from them as well. They have relays, opto relays that I use as the opto interrupter to stop the motor. These have been going since the fall of 2016 and no issues at all. I use the same items on the Bullet Collator. I will Add a link to the store (hope thats ok, if not let me know and I will remove it)
The motor (like the dayton one different mounting Dimensions) https://www.allelectronics.com/item/dcm-351/24-vdc-gear-motor-w/turntable/1.html The turntable is easily removed. I am modifing the Mongo Stl to accommodate this motor.
Light Controlled relay https://www.allelectronics.com/item/prm-1/light-actuated-relay-module-12-vdc/1.html Lots of connectors, switches and other cool stuff.

Now this is the kind of post I can get behind. I love when guys do their homework and come share with the group. Thank you! And yes GWS is the man!
Any questions you might have please fire away.

[RHohman]

Thanks Tyler. I am in the process of modifying the Main body Mongo STL to fit the motor from All Electronics. I purchased several when I made my case feeder. If anyone would like it when I finish it, I am happy to share it.

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler. I am in the process of modifying the Main body Mongo STL to fit the motor from All Electronics. I purchased several when I made my case feeder. If anyone would like it when I finish it, I am happy to share it.

Wait. I just realized you are planning to use the light sensor? Prox sensor is far superior.

[RHohman]

Wait. I just realized you are planning to use the light sensor? Prox sensor is far superior.

Yep, been running the case feeder with the light sensor since early 2017 and no problems at all. I did the same with the bullet feeder. I love the sensor knobs, makes is so nice when changing calibers.

[GWS]

Files promised to M500 below: (or anyone else interested in his relay project I'm sure he'll share.) This is a modified relayed switch and speed control to fit a relay board M500 wants to add to the prox switch controls.

https://i.postimg.cc/2y9y7XXh/New-Box-Top.jpg

I noticed a minor mistake in the Lid file. It showed up in the picture above.... correction re-submitted so download again.

313180

Also below is a picture of the relay circuit added to the original speed control circuit board....even has a read out which I have no idea what it's for! For which the window was added in the lid. Maybe M500 will explain.:)

https://i.postimg.cc/vmCwHms9/Screenshot_2023-04-18_200438.jpg

[MSUICEMAN]

is there anyone that can show me how to hook up the bullet/case feeder to a Lee APP press? I think i must be missing something.... just can't piece it together the way i think it should be done (been working with an adhoc "fix").

Thanks!

[GWS]

is there anyone that can show me how to hook up the bullet/case feeder to a Lee APP press? I think i must be missing something.... just can't piece it together the way i think it should be done (been working with an adhoc "fix").

Thanks!

Think you can get more specific? Case feeder interface is different from a bullet feeder interface. What are you trying to do, and what caliber to start with? And have you added TylerR's quickchange system to it, or just stock feeding from a 4-way or using the stock APP feeder downtubes? And are you wanting to use springtubes or clear thinwall tubes?

Have you downloaded and studied the manual yet? Lots covered in the manual.

[MSUICEMAN]

nevermind. i figured it out. the problem is i was an idiot and didn't realize i needed a drop tube on each side for whatever reason when using the proximity sensor at the collator and not at the bullet die. after printing them out this afternoon (drop_tube and spring_adapter_dt). not exactly sure why i couldnt piece that together earlier.

[TylerR]

Files promised to M500 below: (or anyone else interested in his relay project I'm sure he'll share.) This is a modified relayed switch and speed control to fit a relay board M500 wants to add to the prox switch controls.

I noticed a minor mistake in the Lid file. It showed up in the picture above.... correction re-submitted so download again.

Also below is a picture of the relay circuit added to the original speed control circuit board....even has a read out which I have no idea what it's for! For which the window was added in the lid. Maybe M500 will explain.:)

https://i.postimg.cc/vmCwHms9/Screenshot_2023-04-18_200438.jpg

curiosity level intensifies..........paging M500 to the front desk......

[kentfielddude]

I'm going to print one of these. Need help with settings https://i.imgur.com/MdrGasR.png
Under sensor should I select Collator Mount. I'm going to be using proximity sensor.

[M500]

The circuit board GWS posted is a YYC-2S timing delay relay. It can be used in place of the Kyoto KF0602D as listed in the manual. This is intended primarily for press mounted proximity sensors. It will reduce the constant switching on/off of the motor. The display and buttons on it are for programing the timer. It is pre-programed with many different configurations. There is a great video of this unit in action made by Robojax.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRAaTRKRmh0

Important note:

The unit Robojax tested in this video is a unit with the older firmware. The relays are now shipping with different firmware requiring a schematic as accompanied by this post. The new program needed is 3.6, time A= 1.5 (or 2), time B= 5 (or adjust to your needs). There is a video showing this function. Skip to the 3 minute mark.

https://www.amazon.com/vdp/05c0ba45df434a26964089d39de02e2a


Along with the box GWS posted you will need his controller, rocker switch, the YYC-2S relay, and a diode for sensor protection.


https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-12V-40V-Controller-Switch-Module/dp/B00QVONO20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S2QJKTX

https://www.amazon.com/Automation-Control-Adjustable-Plastic-Solenoid/dp/B07V7C4XSR/

https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Diode-1N5819-Pack-30/dp/B09HWXK2QB?th=1


Big thanks to GWS for modifying his electronics box to fit both boards. :2_high5:

Also reposting my zip for anyone wanting to use duel proximity sensors to reduce cyclic rate.

[M500]

I'm going to print one of these. Need help with settings https://i.imgur.com/MdrGasR.png
Under sensor should I select Collator Mount. I'm going to be using proximity sensor.

If you want the proximity sensor mounted on the drop tube of the collator, then yes. If you will be going press mounted then no.

[TylerR]

I'm going to print one of these. Need help with settings
Under sensor should I select Collator Mount. I'm going to be using proximity sensor.

General rule is for cases go with collator mount. For bullets go with press mount. That said either choice will work with both. Issue with using collator mount for bullets is that the weight of the bullets could be too heavy for the spring when fully loaded.

[r4ndy]

Is it possible to wire the prox sensor such that it powers on when metal is near it or did I get a wrong part? The labeling is the same as the other prox sensors I have. Not a newbie here, but very possible the wiring is wrong, but I can’t find it.

[M500]

Brown is positive.
Blue is negative.
Black is the trigger.
DN & DN2 sensors connect trigger to negative ground.
DP & DP2 sensors connect trigger to positive supply.

DP= normally open positive trigger
DP2= normally closed positive trigger

DN= normally open negative trigger
DN2= normally closed negative trigger

The DN2 is the sensor commonly used.
Good chance your sensor is normally open rather than normally closed.

[r4ndy]

Was definitely a faulty sensor, changed it out with a spare and everything worked properly.

[Mbeavers1]

Is there a way to modify a bullet die for 6mm (0.243") bullets? The only files I see are .stl. I want to try running my 6BR bullets.

[GWS]

Finished the feed and seat for .223 a least......

This is on a Lee 6000, but the concept feeding and seating rifle bullets in one station could be used on any caliber on any progressive probably....if you can find a Windowed Seater for RCBS's or Lees inline bullet feeders.

https://youtu.be/1LTlFB4DEeQ

This is the station by station idea:

1. Size
2. Expand neck with an "M" Die shelf
3. Powder Charge
4. Powder Cop
5. Bullet Feed and Seat in One Station
6. Taper Crimp

[TylerR]

Finished the feed and seat for .223 a least......

This is on a Lee 6000, but the concept feeding and seating rifle bullets in one station could be used on any caliber on any progressive probably....if you can find a Windowed Seater for RCBS's or Lees inline bullet feeders.

https://youtu.be/1LTlFB4DEeQ

This is the station by station idea:

1. Size
2. Expand neck with an "M" Die shelf
3. Powder Charge
4. Powder Cop
5. Bullet Feed and Seat in One Station
6. Taper Crimp

Very nice. I am not sure I fully understand what you have going on there.

[MSUICEMAN]

Using the gold metal match (rcbs version, I'm sure there are others) seating die you can feed through the window then seat. Which would free up a station over using a standalone feeding die. Think I got that right.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Using the gold metal match (rcbs version, I'm sure there are others) seating die you can feed through the window then seat. Which would free up a station over using a standalone feeding die. Think I got that right.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

I get it now :)

[GWS]

Is there a way to modify a bullet die for 6mm (0.243") bullets? The only files I see are .stl. I want to try running my 6BR bullets.

Doh! Took me hours to figure out you just want a bullet FEED die in .243. Ha Ha, I was trying to figure out how you would cast bullets with a modified bullet die.....thinking molten lead......what an idiot I am! Design Spark is rocking a boat at the moment, so to use TylerR's existing source code to modify an existing bullet feed die to .243 MAY have a time limit. He will have to hurry.....;)

Lee's new inline bullet feed dies are a possibility. A metal copy of these things for $50 or a little cheaper from a dealer.

https://i.postimg.cc/g0kff3dk/24-cal-bullet-feed-die.jpg

I'm pretty sure Lee copied the 3d printed ones except for the internal central spring instead of having 2 external springs. The black plastic spring "keeper" screws into the top of the die.

Think of the possibilities if Lee started making windowed seaters for both pistols and rifles.....nobody makes such seaters for pistols.

Then you could print out a coupler like i did for the .223 for even pistol. Such could be used to make 6 station presses out of 5 station presses, and 7 station presses out of 6 station presses.

[MSUICEMAN]

has anyone come up with a good storage solution for the casefeeder and/or LEE APP conversions? want to make my bench kinda tidy if possible. if not, i'll attempt (though i'm slow as molasses in CAD these days, being 22 years removed from doing actual CAD/FEA work will do that to ya).

[GWS]

That's the bane of reloading in general. Especially worst when you add a 3d printer and make all this good extra stuff!!

I don't have any room on my walls unless I starting throwing away half of what I own.....and maybe I'm coming to that. The latest "good" thing I added (and you have to have room for an island in front of your bench, was that I found a horizontal file cabinet in a self storage unit that somebody abandoned. A metal one but similar to this in shape, but 2' wide x4' long:

https://i.postimg.cc/6Q7mJvYd/Horizontal-File-cabinet.jpg

So now I organize that stuff in the top drawer, and the bottom drawer has the quickchange presses, Summit and APP and a bench primer changed out and not currently mounted...all neatly out of sight but fast to get to. Maybe check out a used furniture store.....

[Mbeavers1]

I totally never thought of it when I left out the FEED part...SORRY! Ill snag one of the Lee ones and see how it works then let you know.

[Hube&Spoke]

Finished the feed and seat for .223 a least......

This is on a Lee 6000, but the concept feeding and seating rifle bullets in one station could be used on any caliber on any progressive probably....if you can find a Windowed Seater for RCBS's or Lees inline bullet feeders.

https://youtu.be/1LTlFB4DEeQ

This is the station by station idea:

1. Size
2. Expand neck with an "M" Die shelf
3. Powder Charge
4. Powder Cop
5. Bullet Feed and Seat in One Station
6. Taper Crimp

I am trying to do a similar thing but for a Frankford Arsenal (FA) X10. Currently I am just using the normal 3D printed feeding die but the window approach would be great given how FA designed the stations for this press.

But my first challenge is to print out an "adapter" to attach/connect the 3D Printed Standard Bullet Collator to the X10 stand bar where the factory Case Collator is already attached/connected. Do you know if anyone already did this and has a stl file available? Thank you.

[GWS]

I've never been within a 1000 miles of an X10....looks fun. I'm really sorry, but haven't seen anything out there for adapters. Too new I guess.

[Hube&Spoke]

I've never been within a 1000 miles of an X10....looks fun. I'm really sorry, but haven't seen anything out there for adapters. Too new I guess.

Thank you for the quick reply. I think I will have to design it myself even though I have not done any CAD for decades.

[Hube&Spoke]

Ok was not that difficult to do this part. I used OnShape which is a light CAD software to create the part and it is now printing. I made it a little too strong but better safe than sorry - would hate for it to break with the weight and create a mess.
313542

[GWS]

Ok was not that difficult to do this part. I used OnShape which is a light CAD software to create the part and it is now printing. I made it a little too strong but better safe than sorry - would hate for it to break with the weight and create a mess.
313542

So that attaches to the stand bar rather than to the bench? Picture would be cool when you get there.....;)

[Hube&Spoke]

So that attaches to the stand bar rather than to the bench? Picture would be cool when you get there.....;)

Yes, it attaches to the press existing stand bar which is a heavy aluminum extruded 3cm bar (similar to but stronger than the 3D Printer frame bars). I want to minimize how many bars I have at the bench while using the existing mounts from this collator project. Also, this is how the future FA bullet collator will be attached to this press (attached to the stand bar beneath the case collator) so this way it stays with the original design intent for this press.

[MSUICEMAN]

for anyone that has printed the contributor's plate storage racks, did you find that you need to scale it up to fit the plates? I just printed it out and it just doesn't seem to fit.

[TylerR]

for anyone that has printed the contributor's plate storage racks, did you find that you need to scale it up to fit the plates? I just printed it out and it just doesn't seem to fit.

If it is the Slide_Plate_Rack in the Tinman folder that is my design. I have several those and they fit my plates. If it is the Collator_Plate_Racks then I am not sure.

[MSUICEMAN]

Ah crap, should have been more specific, forgot there was both in there. I'm speaking of the collator plate storage. Also seems like it just doesn't accommodate plates with the handle too. Scaled to 102 they fit on the x and y, but with handles, they **** on each other.



Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Ah crap, should have been more specific, forgot there was both in there. I'm speaking of the collator plate storage. Also seems like it just doesn't accommodate plates with the handle too. Scaled to 102 they fit on the x and y, but with handles, they **** on each other.



Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

You could use the QD handles.

[GWS]

I guess I'm not that organized......mine are in a drawer, and my shelves are crowded to the point there's no room for racks anyway. So I'm no help, no experience with any of them, plate or slider storage racks. Maybe I need to get rid of a few thousand items. ;) For me the handles are important so they come first.

[MSUICEMAN]

You could use the QD handles.

i'm unaware of these.. can ya point me in the right direction?

[TylerR]

i'm unaware of these.. can ya point me in the right direction?

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/3.%20Collator%20Plates/Collator_Plate_Handle.stl

[GWS]

That's too funny....now I get it (after all this time). QD must mean quick detach. So you don't use the screws?!.....and just twist and detach, then you can use the same handle for many plates? Geeze....How'd I miss that? Maybe because you kept the screw holes. I didn't realize I was that unobservant......will have to take a closer look....:oops:

In my defense, I had made my own handles while you were developing yours.....and I wasn't making detachable handles....never even thought about it.....may have to try one. I don't remember any banter about QD's.

[MSUICEMAN]

I may have just learned that also.... Have my own oh for effs sake, no way.... Moment.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Gillie Dog]

That's too funny....now I get it (after all this time). QD must mean quick detach. So you don't use the screws?!.....and just twist and detach, then you can use the same handle for many plates? Geeze....How'd I miss that? Maybe because you kept the screw holes. I didn't realize I was that unobservant......will have to take a closer look...

And me not being the sharpest tack in the box could not figure out what the holes were for so I filled them in before printing............

GD

[TylerR]

Yes I made the quick detach handle mostly because the plates store much better. I left the mounting holes for anyone who wants it semi permanent. :)

[Eviltoy]

Hi guys i printed out everything and am assembling the case feeder and bullet feeder in 9mm. Where does the flipper go? And the slide latch isn’t in the repo where can I get it?

[Mbeavers1]

Had anyone else had issues downloading the Long Rifle Bullet Plate #11 from Github? I can download every other file, but this one simply opens in a Chrome/Edge window and the file does not download. Any ideas?

[Gillie Dog]

Hi guys i printed out everything and am assembling the case feeder and bullet feeder in 9mm. Where does the flipper go? And the slide latch isn’t in the repo where can I get it?

Check out the videos on page four of the manual under the collator nose up or down list. It nicely shows the flipper in action. https://vimeo.com/517852693
Latch is in the Main Body folder.

GD

[Gillie Dog]

Downloaded for me a month ago or so. Won't now.

Here you go.

313912


GD

[Eviltoy]

I see so that flipper that I printed in conjunction with the one in the video is not used all good. Thank you so much

[Mbeavers1]

Thanks for the quick reply. By chance, have you tried to modify this for use with long small rifle bullets (88-90gr) .223? When I change the caliber in OpenSCAD to anything smaller, the outside end of the ramps get blocked off.

[Gillie Dog]

Thanks for the quick reply. By chance, have you tried to modify this for use with long small rifle bullets (88-90gr) .223? When I change the caliber in OpenSCAD to anything smaller, the outside end of the ramps get blocked off.

Nope, never tried one or modifications from collator plate generator/OpenSCAD. Good luck.

GD

[Gillie Dog]

I see so that flipper that I printed in conjunction with the one in the video is not used all good. Thank you so much

Check the other videos from the manual for different sweeper(s) also.
https://vimeo.com/517852597

GD

[GWS]

Had anyone else had issues downloading the Long Rifle Bullet Plate #11 from Github? I can download every other file, but this one simply opens in a Chrome/Edge window and the file does not download. Any ideas?

The most trouble free way to download TylerR's project is the whole thing in one zip file, then unzip them all at once in a folder. That way every .stl file you could ever need from the project is on your computer, handy and ready to slice.

Go to the "Downloads" at the bottom of any TylerR post........click it.......look for the green button that says "CODE"....click it, then click "download zip" and wait 3 minutes......then unzip all.....move and name the folder to suit you and you have everything.....

and yes the #11 plate stl file is there and perfect.......and btw, I use the #11 as it is for most of my 30 cal rifle bullets even the short ones.....try it on your .223 the way it is before you give up. Then if those things are just too small then use TylerR's latest small rifle bullet plate.......or start with it. ;) Looks like this:

https://i.postimg.cc/xC4rcyrj/TylerR_Small_Rifle_Bullets.jpg

With this use the #2 slide....

The only trouble I had with my first try with the plate-maker (also for .223) was the slide to ramp geometry.....as you can see from this early video..... (notice in the title still shots in both videos below....show the problem with those short 55's and the fix)


https://youtu.be/Fpy5BkVMUmE

I remedied it with a little reshaping of the ramp in my case. Picture below shows the stock ramp and the modified one.

https://i.postimg.cc/pV4N5x3C/Ramps.jpg
Modified one on the left.....
result was a bit more efficient..... 1 hung for a couple of seconds but then went by itself.....the rest was smooth sailing.

https://youtu.be/uvBFV1FeZz8

One last thing.....we were trying to find what worked, and that platemaker rendition had WAY too many risers! (every other hole was the better option I could have chosen):roll: And later TylerR angled the risers and they became even more efficient, as in the first illustration above. You'll have to ask Tyler if he has had any problems with short 55grain .223's like in the videos, I don't think he modified the #2 slider since then or the ramp either.

If anyone wants an .stl of the modified ramp for those shorties, holler.:) For the long bullets the stock ramp ought to be just fine.

[JStuhlmiller]

Can anyone tell me which spring works the best (between the flipper and main body)?

I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Uc4NUGimWQ8

[GWS]

Can anyone tell me which spring works the best (between the flipper and main body)?

I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Uc4NUGimWQ8

Motor & plate is rotating the wrong way.....maybe you can reverse polarity?

I just use small thin wire compression spring. I bought a spring assortment off the web for cheap, and two sizes in it work fine. 9/32"x 1/2" long or 3/32"x 11/16" long....or anything in between. Get tiny wire sizes so it's easy to compress. I've got them at ACE hardware before in one-zies and two-zies for very cheap.

[MSUICEMAN]

I just used the spring from a pen... Because I didn't have a spring kit handy. Works fine.

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[MSUICEMAN]

Has anyone printed the large rifle brass collator plate lately with success? For some reason I've had three failed attempts all erroring in the exact same spot. Acts like a clog but there is none. My last print is usable, as I caught it on the layer it had issues, successfully paused and resumed. I've tried two different slices of it. It's strange as I haven't had any failed prints in a while. I printed another print after just to make sure it wasn't a machine issue without a problem.

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[GWS]

Has anyone printed the large rifle brass collator plate lately with success? For some reason I've had three failed attempts all erroring in the exact same spot. Acts like a clog but there is none. My last print is usable, as I caught it on the layer it had issues, successfully paused and resumed. I've tried two different slices of it. It's strange as I haven't had any failed prints in a while. I printed another print after just to make sure it wasn't a machine issue without a problem.

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Every once in a while my Creality CR10v2 does that. Quits feeding a good stream of media, for no reason I can see. The fix for me is taking the nozzle out, pulling the tubing out of the hot end, either replacing the tubing or cutting off a 1/2" or so at the bottom (if I have the length to do that).....making darn sure the cut is absolutely square so the media doesn't leak around it. Then heat the hot end again and make sure it is totally clean. Then I replace the nozzle with a new one while still hot, feed the tubing (cut or new) down tight against the nozzle (replace the tube anchor down there too if it won't hold it tight.) Then I'm good for another 4 months.

I wonder if I cause some of it by pushing hot media by hand sometimes to change colors or brand of media.....lately I am refraining from that to test that possibility. I have a bad habit of trying to hurry the starting of a print sometimes when changing media colors......probably should just print something unimportant during that transistion, then stop it and start the print I need once the color transition is done. Always learning something new with this hobby.

Any other thoughts from others?

[TylerR]

Thanks for the quick reply. By chance, have you tried to modify this for use with long small rifle bullets (88-90gr) .223? When I change the caliber in OpenSCAD to anything smaller, the outside end of the ramps get blocked off.

The code for the #11 plate is a bit of a hack job. I have not taken the time to go back and fix it.

[TylerR]

I remedied it with a little reshaping of the ramp in my case. Picture below shows the stock ramp and the modified one.

https://i.postimg.cc/pV4N5x3C/Ramps.jpg


The ramp currently on github has a similar modification.

[TylerR]

Every once in a while my Creality CR10v2 does that. Quits feeding a good stream of media, for no reason I can see. The fix for me is taking the nozzle out, pulling the tubing out of the hot end, either replacing the tubing or cutting off a 1/2" or so at the bottom (if I have the length to do that).....making darn sure the cut is absolutely square so the media doesn't leak around it. Then heat the hot end again and make sure it is totally clean. Then I replace the nozzle with a new one while still hot, feed the tubing (cut or new) down tight against the nozzle (replace the tube anchor down there too if it won't hold it tight.) Then I'm good for another 4 months.

I wonder if I cause some of it by pushing hot media by hand sometimes to change colors or brand of media.....lately I am refraining from that to test that possibility. I have a bad habit of trying to hurry the starting of a print sometimes when changing media colors......probably should just print something unimportant during that transistion, then stop it and start the print I need once the color transition is done. Always learning something new with this hobby.

Any other thoughts from others?

This exact same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. I went through the same process. Alot of people recommend a "cold pull". I have never tried it.
https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-clogged-nozzle-how-to-perform-a-cold-atomic-pull/

[JStuhlmiller]

Motor & plate is rotating the wrong way.....maybe you can reverse polarity?

I just use small thin wire compression spring. I bought a spring assortment off the web for cheap, and two sizes in it work fine. 9/32"x 1/2" long or 3/32"x 11/16" long....or anything in between. Get tiny wire sizes so it's easy to compress. I've got them at ACE hardware before in one-zies and two-zies for very cheap.

Oh my lord, I stared at that thing for an hour trying to figure what was wrong. It is certainly reversed.


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[TylerR]

GWS where did your last post go? was going to comment on it. Looked really cool.

[GWS]

I'm repenting from my bad habit of getting off topic too often on this thread.....I did make a dedicated thread to it on THR.org, and got a tiny reaction, but there's just not many reloaders also doing 3D printing.

Link to it is........https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/feednseat-in-one-save-a-station.917972/#post-12630453 if you want to looksee, and it includes .stl files for .223 and .308 versions, plus the RCBS rifle bullet feeder die mods for those calibers all in one place.

.....That's a safe secure place to put it where it won't go away, but people on THR may have to search on GW Staar threads (my name there) to find it.........people that will, will be rarer than hens teeth, but that's ok. ;)

There is a user on CastBoolits who asked for the .223 files, and they are on the castboolits reloading site. I can supply dsm source also if anyone asks. Might be useful to doing something similar with other brands of dies and presses. (Like Lee's new inline bullet feeders, but no one makes pistol seaters yet with windows.) Would make any 5 station progressive a 6 station when loading rifle at least. https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?449868-Lee-6000-38-Spl-The-Journey-Starts&p=5577978&viewfull=1#post5577978

Nobody makes pistol bullet seaters with windows.....so until that changes, only rifle loaders can do this.

[jamg]

Curious has anyone come across any files to adapt the case feeder to a 450/550? I seem to keep breaking the small hook on the Lee APP I've been using to deprime before wet tumbling. I have an old 450 that's just collecting dust that I think would be much more robust in this functiont

[GWS]

Curious has anyone come across any files to adapt the case feeder to a 450/550? I seem to keep breaking the small hook on the Lee APP I've been using to deprime before wet tumbling. I have an old 450 that's just collecting dust that I think would be much more robust in this functiont

Are you using Lee's stock slider base, or one of TylerR's slider bases. (assuming the hook is on that piece?) For either or both, I have burnished powdered graphite into both the rail and the slider bases, to make them more friction-free. I have not broke a hook, yet. I use a cotton rag to do that on the rail and Q-tips inside the recesses.....seems to be a good preventative.

The other "fix" I would probably use if I do break one, would be a hole drilled slowly in the heat sensitive plastic and replacing the hook with a panhead screw.

I don't use any blue presses, so can't help you with that.....maybe TylerR can help.....or other Dillon users.

[jamg]

Are you using Lee's stock slider base, or one of TylerR's slider bases. (assuming the hook is on that piece?) For either or both, I have burnished powdered graphite into both the rail and the slider bases, to make them more friction-free. I have not broke a hook, yet. I use a cotton rag to do that on the rail and Q-tips inside the recesses.....seems to be a good preventative.

The other "fix" I would probably use if I do break one, would be a hole drilled slowly in the heat sensitive plastic and replacing the hook with a panhead screw.

I don't use any blue presses, so can't help you with that.....maybe TylerR can help.....or other Dillon users.

I've been using the stock slider base, the last time I used the APP slider bases I have significant drag on the bases. I figured I had calibration problems with my printer, but after printing a few calibration prints I couldn't find the issue. At that point I just went back to the stock sliders.

The hook I'm breaking off is the round hook on the slider that attaches to the spring. The hook is attached the the plastic part that moves the shuttle back and forth, but also opens and closes the "jaws" that grip the brass case.

[Spanky49]

Where can I get the files for the lee app

[MSUICEMAN]

Where can I get the files for the lee appSame GitHub (Tyler's) as the casefeeder

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[Spanky49]

What is the link to his github

[GWS]

Look at any of TylerR's posts.....at the bottom....click "Downloads" Then click the green "code" button and the whole project will be downloaded to your computer......simple as that. Then look for the APP folder.

[ranger391xt]

Alternatively, you can login to github and search for BF556.

For those of us using Tapatalk (and possibly other mobile apps) to view the forum, we don't see people's signature and thus the link is not readily visible....

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[GWS]

Alternatively, you can login to github and search for BF556.

For those of us using Tapatalk (and possibly other mobile apps) to view the forum, we don't see people's signature and thus the link is not readily visible....

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Tapatalk is NOT an option for me....this 15" lap top is as small as I can stand. My eyes along with the rest of me are trying to survive their 73rd year. ;)

But yes, github is accessible other ways...true enough....just not as instant as pressing TylerR's "downloads." "BF556" is worth writing down, though....for sure.

I'm curious ranger, tapatalk really can't scroll down to the signature?

[MSUICEMAN]

Yeah, signatures don't show up on Tapatalk.

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[MSUICEMAN]

Tapatalk is NOT an option for me....this 15" lap top is as small as I can stand. My eyes along with the rest of me are trying to survive their 73rd year. ;)

But yes, github is accessible other ways...true enough....just not as instant as pressing TylerR's "downloads." "BF556" is worth writing down, though....for sure.

I'm curious ranger, tapatalk really can't scroll down to the signature?I have a bookmark in my browser

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[GWS]

Not feeling any desire for Tapatalk. To each their own....

Glad my laptop doesn't end every post with.....

Sent from my HP labtop using lappytalk. :) Guess I'm too old fashioned.....

[MSUICEMAN]

Back when bulletin forums were kinda clanky and common, I used Tapatalk because it was a one stop shop for nearly all your forums. Now the forum software is good, and I belong to less forums with social media available, so I don't use it much, though this forum gives me notifications via Tapatalk, so here I am. Lol

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[ranger391xt]

This is what Tapatalk looks like, as well as Tyler's profile (no link there).

I can not access the forums from my work computer, so using my mobile device is the main option during the day, and I don't care for how the website looks on the phone. I think Tapatalk is a fairly common alternative, and know that at least one of the moderators uses it (or used to).

I also understand that using a mobile device isn't for everyone, but there may be some folks out there who have never accessed the forum from a web browser. I think the day is coming where the younger generations have never used a PC or Laptop.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230602/7e3654cfe73d76d910842cfa63bd6409.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230602/f120081a0eb0484ff2ffe464e27c3c2e.jpg

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[GWS]

So you can't just click this? (seen in your last frame?)

314684

"downloads" on the signature line? So nothing's hot to click on there?

[ranger391xt]

So you can't just click this? (seen in your last frame?)

314684

"downloads" on the signature line? So nothing's hot to click on there?No sir, not a clickable link.

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[TylerR]

Does this work?

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder

[MSUICEMAN]

Does this work?

https://github.com/BF556/FeederYes on Tapatalk

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[Super_Mario]

Long time listener first time caller. Picked up a Bambu Labs X1C after following this thread for some time. Thank you all for the work on this project, really exciting to see how far this has come.

Having a little bit of an issue with the limit switch adjustment in the drop tube, using the number 10 switch drop tube for 9mm. Does anyone have an image showing how they bent or adjusted their limit switches to work in the drop tube? Should I even be bending the limit switch? I am using the micro switch linked in the manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Heres my progress so far:

315529

[MSUICEMAN]

Long time listener first time caller. Picked up a Bambu Labs X1C after following this thread for some time. Thank you all for the work on this project, really exciting to see how far this has come.

Having a little bit of an issue with the limit switch adjustment in the drop tube, using the number 10 switch drop tube for 9mm. Does anyone have an image showing how they bent or adjusted their limit switches to work in the drop tube? Should I even be bending the limit switch? I am using the micro switch linked in the manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Heres my progress so far:

315529Fancy shmancy! Fact is, I'm jealous of your printer. Wish I had advice about the switch, I went with the proximity switch option, and it just works when face to face with the flat of the drop tube.

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[Super_Mario]

Fancy shmancy! Fact is, I'm jealous of your printer. Wish I had advice about the switch, I went with the proximity switch option, and it just works when face to face with the flat of the drop tube.

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The X1C is an amazing printer, I cannot recommend it enough. My first trip into 3d printers was with a prusa mendel I built longer ago than I can remember and while the build was insanely fun, the amount of work it took to get it to print took all the wind out of my printing sails. Fast forward to today the X1C is pretty much a get it out of the box and print and print it does FAST! I've had it for about a month and it has been running around the clock.

I'd really like to get the switch to work, It seems everyone here ultimately goes to the prox sensor. It seems the main problem i am running into is the switch doesnt line up vertically to the notches in the switch drop tube so i have to install it at an angle and bend the lever. Looking at the MRB switch it looks like they wrap that thing around like an elephants trunk. Anyone with a picture of how they've angled theirs would be extremely helpful.

[MSUICEMAN]

I'm a tinkerer by nature. Plus I didn't know if I'd like 3d printing or not, so I ended up with two enders, one 3v2, one 3 pro. Both are heavily modded and upgraded at this point with new tubes, one direct drive, both have all metal hot ends, custom firmware, CRTouchs on each, added fans, changed boards, etc..

With the price lowering on the P1P, I may go that route.

As far as the switch I could a swore I read about bending it and extending an arm for it so it effectively spans the tube diameter, but I don't have firsthand experience.

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[Mbeavers1]

Hi all, I have printed both a case feeder and a bullet feeder. Both are working great except for with long rifle bullets. I am trying to run 6mm (0.243") Berger 109s. I tried to modify the Long Rifle bullet plate from 0.30 to .243 but was unsuccessful so I just gave the 0.30 a whirl. My bullets drop in nose first then the 'ramp' either drags them out of the collator plate and they fall in the little tray or they tip over in the 1/4"-ish gap between the ramp and the slide plate.

I tried angling the feeder back more and played with the speed. Anyone else have any thoughts? I have a video of what it looks like but havent figured out how to post it yet.