Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

Both your switches do that or just the new one?

DC switch only runs one way.....I wonder if you have the +/- reversed? On mine blue is minus, brown is +. Also try without the black hooked up. Picture? and please send me your switch source so I can look at it. If you posted that I missed it.

[TylerR]

Both your switches do that or just the new one?

DC switch only runs one way.....I wonder if you have the +/- reversed? On mine blue is minus, brown is +. Also try without the black hooked up. Picture? and please send me your switch source so I can look at it. If you posted that I missed it.

Both do it. The first one I bought is the exact one you linked to. Are you running yours with the MBF/Mcmaster carr motor, or something else. Both of my sensors are the same as yours. Brown is + in, Blue is - in, Black is - signal out. How can you run it without the black one hooked up? Here is a wiring diagram I just whipped up if I were to use a relay. Thicker lines show higher current connections.

I am also starting to understand NPN vs PNP better, and I think I had that part of it messed up. Still can't get it to run the motor though.

273659

Here is the schematic as I have understood it from your picture.
273658

[AR-Bossman]

Me, naturally being a perverted divergent....

And I quote.....

[TylerR]

OK so figured out a couple of things. First off I had the switch wired as if it was PNP, not NPN. So I was treating the signal wire out as a positive, not a negative. Once I got that resolved the larger sensor GWS recommended is running the motor. The smaller switch still does not. I suspect that it is the difference in mA throughput. Even though the larger switch at 300mA rating should in theory still not be enough for that motor under full load. I ordered a cheap 2 amp relay and I am going to test with that in a few days when it comes in. So some success. The collator is other wise built and ready to roll.

[TylerR]

The wall extender is a perfect fit, thank you Tyler!

Here it is installed:

Looks so nice and it even printed better than the last one; far less stringing.

Glad it worked out, since I just designed it and have not printed it yet. Looks pretty darn good.

[GWS]

Both do it. The first one I bought is the exact one you linked to. Are you running yours with the MBF/Mcmaster carr motor, or something else. Both of my sensors are the same as yours. Brown is + in, Blue is - in, Black is - signal out. How can you run it without the black one hooked up? Here is a wiring diagram I just whipped up if I were to use a relay. Thicker lines show higher current connections.

I am also starting to understand NPN vs PNP better, and I think I had that part of it messed up. Still can't get it to run the motor though.

273659

Here is the schematic as I have understood it from your picture.
273658

The only thing I see is that maybe you have the black and blue reversed.....but since you only have black, red, and brown in the schematic, I can't be sure. Blue on mine goes straight to the -Motor terminal on the Switch. Does not touch the motor. The Black sensor wire goes to the -Motor itself.

Here's a diagram from a company who makes them:

273667

Honestly I don't remember which two wires I connected to try it two wire. I thought it was the blue and brown....maybe I dreamed it. Will do some more checking. Adding the switch is confusing the issue.....try it without the on/off switch too....just to test.


OK so figured out a couple of things. First off I had the switch wired as if it was PNP, not NPN. So I was treating the signal wire out as a positive, not a negative. Once I got that resolved the larger sensor GWS recommended is running the motor. The smaller switch still does not. I suspect that it is the difference in mA throughput. Even though the larger switch at 300mA rating should in theory still not be enough for that motor under full load. I ordered a cheap 2 amp relay and I am going to test with that in a few days when it comes in. So some success. The collator is other wise built and ready to roll.

Okay good.....now you're past my expertise and on your own. I know nothing about relays. ;)

As for the two wire on my first one.....that was a 120V sensor and a 120V AC motor on the Hornady...totally different. Still I could swear I tried this last one with two wires and it worked....maybe it was in my bed in the middle of the night????

Still haven't seen specs on your little one.....

[TylerR]

Still haven't seen specs on your little one.....

There are basic specs at this link, as well as a PDF with full specs.
https://www.autonicsonline.com/product/product&product_id=15

A relay basically just allows you to turn a high current circuit on or of using a low current switch. Which is exactly what we are doing here. Most switches don't want a lot of current flowing through the actual switch.

[o416]

There are basic specs at this link, as well as a PDF with full specs.
https://www.autonicsonline.com/product/product&product_id=15

A relay basically just allows you to turn a high current circuit on or of using a low current switch. Which is exactly what we are doing here. Most switches don't want a lot of current flowing through the actual switch.

Is there a particular relay board you guys are using? Or are you using the same photosensor one and just connecting the proximity sensor to it.

[TylerR]

Is there a particular relay board you guys are using? Or are you using the same photosensor one and just connecting the proximity sensor to it.

You know I considered that, because I do have another one of those lying around, but I am not sure if it would work or not. I just bought the smallest cheapest one I could find on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B888WVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[silahtar]

Greetings, new here. Built the original AM for a dedicated 9mm setup, still works like a charm after 8-9 months.

I'm trying to catch up with all the 151 pages of information, so hope you guys can bear with my questions that may have already answered here.

My current setup uses Hornady Bullet Feeding die, I was wondering if I need an adaptor between the feeder die and the drop tube like I'm currently using on AM's drop tube? I tried the search on this but could not find an answer.

I noticed there is an ongoing effort to try proximity sensors due to photosensors may not work all the time. Another solution could be fixing the photosensor and LED on a sliding fixture, 20mm adjustment range could solve that problem. The fixture could also accommodate the mobility between different size drop tubes.

If I can help in any way, please feel free to ask; I've some experience with Fusion 360...

Work put out by everybody here is absolutely fantastic, much appreciated...

[mescalero0]

Hello Everyone, i read almost the entire thread about the amazing work Ammomike83 did but i haven't found the information about the wiring electric schema in order to connect the motor (or the speed controller with switch and knob) to the light sensor and the power supply adapter. Can someone explain how to make the correct wiring so that the motor stop to rotate the wheel when the tube is full of bullets covering the light? Thanks so much.
EDIT:
I found the Jeff Google Drive packages with the manual, so i should be able (well... i hope) to wire everything up.
I am not sure about the correct "spring housing" i should print for 9mm. Here the list of the components i am going to print for reloading 9mm:

- bf_v2_base_(stillhavetodecidethemotor).stl
- bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide.stl
- bf_v2_collator_plate_9mmLuger.stl
- bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id9mm_small_spring.s tl
- bf_v2_flipper_v2
- bf_v2_mount_hang_var_bf_side_WH120.stl
- bf_v2_spring_housing_large_v2
- bf_v2_spring_housing_small_v2

Am i missing something? Or i should add something else?
Thank you.

[Anuccite]

Hello Everyone, i read almost the entire thread about the amazing work Ammomike83 did but i haven't found the information about the wiring electric schema in order to connect the motor (or the speed controller with switch and knob) to the light sensor and the power supply adapter. Can someone explain how to make the correct wiring so that the motor stop to rotate the wheel when the tube is full of bullets covering the light? Thanks so much.
EDIT:
I found the Jeff Google Drive packages with the manual, so i should be able (well... i hope) to wire everything up.
I am not sure about the correct "spring housing" i should print for 9mm. Here the list of the components i am going to print for reloading 9mm:

- bf_v2_base_(stillhavetodecidethemotor).stl
- bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide.stl
- bf_v2_collator_plate_9mmLuger.stl
- bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id9mm_small_spring.s tl
- bf_v2_flipper_v2
- bf_v2_mount_hang_var_bf_side_WH120.stl
- bf_v2_spring_housing_large_v2
- bf_v2_spring_housing_small_v2

Am i missing something? Or i should add something else?
Thank you.

If you downloaded Mike's origional files, In the "files" directory, There is a Wiring_Schematic.pdf File

And You want Large Spring housing for 9mm

[mescalero0]

If you downloaded Mike's origional files, In the "files" directory, There is a Wiring_Schematic.pdf File

And You want Large Spring housing for 9mm

Large spring housing so i have to use the bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id13mm_large_spring. stl ? 13mm inner diamater is ok?
And the Large spring housing (bf_v2_spring_housing_large_v2) connect the output spring to the bottom of the base catching the falling bullets but what about the housing that connect to the drop tube ? There is some piece missing there? Which is the inner diameter for the output spring? 13 mm inner diameter for 9mm bullets it's ok?
And... i think i saw a bullet feeder die for 9mm but there are plenty of them and i don't know which one is correct to connect with the drop tube.

So quick recap for 9mm:
- Which is the inner diameter for the output spring? (basing on that i can guess which housing do i need).
- There is an adapter to connect the end of the output spring to the drop tube?
- Which is the correct 9mm bullet feeder die to print? (Matritze9mm-1.stl original by Ammomike83 is ok?)

I am going to mount it on a Dillon XL750.
Thanks.

[TylerR]

I added a small, medium and large drop tube spacer. These will change where bullets fall in the drop tube in relation to the light sensor by 8mm. So if they are sitting such that the bullet point is right at the light sensor allowing light through, add one of the spacers and it will shift the stack up by 8mm to change where they sit.

Small handles 6 and 7mm drop tubes. Medium is for 8, 9, and 10mm drop tubes. And Large is 11,12,13mm drop tubes.

This should address silahtar's suggestion about having a sliding sensor, which is not really possible with the current design. shifting the stack by 8mm I felt was a good compromise to handle most bullet lengths.

[TylerR]

My current setup uses Hornady Bullet Feeding die, I was wondering if I need an adaptor between the feeder die and the drop tube like I'm currently using on AM's drop tube? I tried the search on this but could not find an answer.


Yes. AM had adapters for Hornady and RCBS, but looking at them it is unclear to me how they interface to the drop tube. Can you snap a pic of your current setup and maybe describe what you have going on? I could make such adapters for my current setup, but would need some more details on the feed dies specs. I would think they would be very similar to the spacers I just added for shifting the bullet stack, they would just have a base to fit the other feed die.

[TylerR]

Hello Everyone, i read almost the entire thread about the amazing work Ammomike83 did but i haven't found the information about the wiring electric schema in order to connect the motor (or the speed controller with switch and knob) to the light sensor and the power supply adapter. Can someone explain how to make the correct wiring so that the motor stop to rotate the wheel when the tube is full of bullets covering the light? Thanks so much.
EDIT:
I found the Jeff Google Drive packages with the manual, so i should be able (well... i hope) to wire everything up.
I am not sure about the correct "spring housing" i should print for 9mm. Here the list of the components i am going to print for reloading 9mm:

- bf_v2_base_(stillhavetodecidethemotor).stl
- bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide.stl
- bf_v2_collator_plate_9mmLuger.stl
- bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id9mm_small_spring.s tl
- bf_v2_flipper_v2
- bf_v2_mount_hang_var_bf_side_WH120.stl
- bf_v2_spring_housing_large_v2
- bf_v2_spring_housing_small_v2

Am i missing something? Or i should add something else?
Thank you.

I am confused. Are you trying to use AM original files, or my files?

[mescalero0]

I am confused. Are you trying to use AM original files, or my files?

I'll use AM original files. Don't know where to find yours and i am so dumb i should study again from scratch all the single pieces i should use.

[TylerR]

I'll use AM original files. Don't know where to find yours and i am so dumb i should study again from scratch all the single pieces i should use.


Just look in my signature :)

And read o416's brilliant manual.

[mescalero0]

Just look in my signature :)

And read o416's brilliant manual.

Tyler, have mercy... i spent almost 3 hours trying to figure out what do i need in order to list all the pieces i need to build my bullet feeder. I know i am dumb for this and maybe it's better to buy a DAA mrbf but... i want to try to do it by myself. :D
P.S I checked your "Pipe Bender Spring Adapter Compatibility" and for 9mm there is reported an Inned Diameter of 10.1 mm for the output spring. Do i read that correctly?

[TylerR]

Tyler, have mercy... i spent almost 3 hours trying to figure out what do i need in order to list all the pieces i need to build my bullet feeder. I know i am dumb for this and maybe it's better to buy a DAA mrbf but... i want to try to do it by myself. :D
P.S I checked your "Pipe Bender Spring Adapter Compatibility" and for 9mm there is reported an Inned Diameter of 10.1 mm for the output spring. Do i read that correctly?

No worries my friend. This is exactly why we put a comprehensive manual together. But it matches up with my files, not AM's.
Andar put those pipe bender spring adapters together. Looking at the chart that looks correct.

[mescalero0]

No worries my friend. This is exactly why we put a comprehensive manual together. But it matches up with my files, not AM's.
Andar put those pipe bender spring adapters together. Looking at the chart that looks correct.

There are a lot differences compared to AM version?

[TylerR]

There are a lot differences compared to AM version?

Yes there are.

[mescalero0]

Yes there are.

Ok i am going to study your version. I will show up in the next days after i get what i need to create a bullet feeder for my Dillon.
Thank you for now Tyler.

[silahtar]

Yes. AM had adapters for Hornady and RCBS, but looking at them it is unclear to me how they interface to the drop tube. Can you snap a pic of your current setup and maybe describe what you have going on? I could make such adapters for my current setup, but would need some more details on the feed dies specs. I would think they would be very similar to the spacers I just added for shifting the bullet stack, they would just have a base to fit the other feed die.

Thanks, Tyler. I'm attaching a couple of pictures; my setup and a picture of the feeding die. Diameter at the top where the adaptor couple (knurled section) is 22.65mm. The height is 25.45mm. I have red tape to achieve a tight fit, powder measure runs very close to the drop tube (I'm running an RCBS PiggyBack conversion kit and an auto-indexing Pro 2000), a little bit of play would cause them to bind every now and then...

273715273716

[silahtar]

Well, joining the troops with the first print... Prints that will keep the printer running during the night always get a brim for adhesion, and some tape over them to ensure nothing goes wrong... I use a glass plate so can easily see if the print dislodged using a flashlight, this one is 100% lodged on the plate so far...

273719

[TylerR]

Thanks, Tyler. I'm attaching a couple of pictures; my setup and a picture of the feeding die. Diameter at the top where the adaptor couple (knurled section) is 22.65mm. The height is 25.45mm. I have red tape to achieve a tight fit, powder measure runs very close to the drop tube (I'm running an RCBS PiggyBack conversion kit and an auto-indexing Pro 2000), a little bit of play would cause them to bind every now and then...



That helps thanks. Curious what caliber is that die for?

I just added a Drop_Tube_Hornady_Adapter_Large file to downloads. It has an ID of 22.85mm. I looked at the AM one and it was 23mm, but it sounds like that was a little loose for you. Like the DT spacers, I could do a small, medium and large to interface with the 8 different sizes.

Anyway give it a try and let me know if it fits well.

[GWS]

And I quote.....

That's what Dillon lovers must think of me....Green....Green....Green....hate baby blue....see?;) My brother has a 650.....and I like it okay. It's no better than my Pro 2000 but its the wrong color and the primer system is scarier. So then Dillon brought out the 750 and fixed that. I prefer the color, features and casting material of the 1050.:) The Pro Chucker is another animal....totally. I hope they sort it out someday.....but I didn't bother to wait and I'm not sorry....once I smoothed it out in a few place I love it. And thanks to all you 3D'ers, I have a working case and bullet feeder/collator for it. Happy as Snoopy in Peanuts at Christmas.....Hey it is Christmas...almost!

Merry Christmas everybody!

Tonight I hope to try a video of the Prochucker and .223......at least collating and feeding brass.....overworked today....maybe I have something left for that. Case Collator a-la TylerR.....done! Finally! But I need to print a .308 plate.....tonight I'll start that too.

[silahtar]

That helps thanks. Curious what caliber is that die for?

I just added a Drop_Tube_Hornady_Adapter_Large file to downloads. It has an ID of 22.85mm. I looked at the AM one and it was 23mm, but it sounds like that was a little loose for you. Like the DT spacers, I could do a small, medium and large to interface with the 8 different sizes.

Anyway give it a try and let me know if it fits well.

One on the press was for 9mm. Picture was for .451/.452. They all have the same top knurled dimensions...

[TylerR]

One on the press was for 9mm. Picture was for .451/.452. They all have the same top knurled dimensions...

That one I posted should work well for you then. If it fits well I will post the small and medium ones.

[TylerR]

That's what Dillon lovers must think of me....Green....Green....Green....hate baby blue....see?;) My brother has a 650.....and I like it okay. It's no better than my Pro 2000 but its the wrong color and the primer system is scarier. So then Dillon brought out the 750 and fixed that. I prefer the color, features and casting material of the 1050.:) The Pro Chucker is another animal....totally. I hope they sort it out someday.....but I didn't bother to wait and I'm not sorry....once I smoothed it out in a few place I love it. And thanks to all you 3D'ers, I have a working case and bullet feeder/collator for it. Happy as Snoopy in Peanuts at Christmas.....Hey it is Christmas...almost!

Merry Christmas everybody!

Tonight I hope to try a video of the Prochucker and .223......at least collating and feeding brass.....overworked today....maybe I have something left for that. Case Collator a-la TylerR.....done! Finally! But I need to print a .308 plate.....tonight I'll start that too.

Woot! Then we get to see some video. :)

Merry Christmas to you my friend!

[noacess]

Hey TylerR,

New plot twist (terrible pun). Today I got some brake line protectors in for springs and the twist on them is the reverse of what the spring adapters are threaded for. Would it be possible to make spring adapters with reverse threads (I need large)?

Thanks!

[TylerR]

Hey TylerR,

New plot twist (terrible pun). Today I got some brake line protectors in for springs and the twist on them is the reverse of what the spring adapters are threaded for. Would it be possible to make spring adapters with reverse threads (I need large)?

Thanks!

A member recently posted that they were able to reverse the threads using the slicing program. I am sorry I don't remember who it was, but it was in the last 10 pages or so.

[o416]

Just my 2 cents here so please don't be offended.

I am blown away at how this project has taken off and all the innovations that have been brought to the table.

There are so many amazing ideas that I don't know where to start.

However, I find that we are adding way too many options/customizations to this project and it is making the manual equally bloated.

For instance, we now have 3 electronics boxes which doesn't really make much sense to me. It is a box to hold parts after all and shouldn't be specific to any particular build.

I loved the slide on back cover idea from GWS and it only makes sense that Tyler added it to his version, but do we really need 3???

One electronics box, designed by Tyler, with a sliding back and of moderate size to accommodate any and all build types makes much more sense to me.

If people want to modify them, let them, but for the sake of the project and manual, can we keep it simple?

I feel the same way about the main body. I LOVE the inserts idea and hope that more inserts are made for various operations. I think that should become the default option.

Those new to the project will print the main body with the insert option. Those who have the old design can keep theirs and print the new one if they need it.

I am sorry if I upset anybody but making this manual hasn't been easy and accommodating all these flavors in it makes it more tough.

Thoughts?

[TylerR]

Just my 2 cents here so please don't be offended.

I am blown away at how this project has taken off and all the innovations that have been brought to the table.

There are so many amazing ideas that I don't know where to start.

However, I find that we are adding way too many options/customizations to this project and it is making the manual equally bloated.

For instance, we now have 3 electronics boxes which doesn't really make much sense to me. It is a box to hold parts after all and shouldn't be specific to any particular build.

I loved the slide on back cover idea from GWS and it only makes sense that Tyler added it to his version, but do we really need 3???

One electronics box, designed by Tyler, with a sliding back and of moderate size to accommodate any and all build types makes much more sense to me.

If people want to modify them, let them, but for the sake of the project and manual, can we keep it simple?

I feel the same way about the main body. I LOVE the inserts idea and hope that more inserts are made for various operations. I think that should become the default option.

Those new to the project will print the main body with the insert option. Those who have the old design can keep theirs and print the new one if they need it.

I am sorry if I upset anybody but making this manual hasn't been easy and accommodating all these flavors in it makes it more tough.

Thoughts?

I replied to your email but will reply here as well.

Very good point, and well taken. I will provide two electronics box options, large and small.

Spring adapters are tough, because there are just so many variations of springs and not a great source. When I get my new springs from China I am going to hopefully be able to make them work with the DAA adapters I have now, maybe with some modification. Definitely don't want to have to add a third option,

As far as the new main body with the drop hole mod, I would just remove mention of it from the manual for now, and I will move it to a folder called Experimental. That can be where we put all these new ideas into before we decide to make them a part of the main project. How's that sound?

[o416]

I replied to your email but will reply here as well.

Very good point, and well taken. I will provide two electronics box options, large and small.

Spring adapters are tough, because there are just so many variations of springs and not a great source. When I get my new springs from China I am going to hopefully be able to make them work with the DAA adapters I have now, maybe with some modification. Definitely don't want to have to add a third option,

As far as the new main body with the drop hole mod, I would just remove mention of it from the manual for now, and I will move it to a folder called Experimental. That can be where we put all these new ideas into before we decide to make them a part of the main project. How's that sound?

Yeah a large and small electronics box makes sense. Is there a way to make the large one with a slide plate as well? 4 screws does suck lol

[TylerR]

Yeah a large and small electronics box makes sense. Is there a way to make the large one with a slide plate as well? 4 screws does suck lol

Absolutely. Just haven't gotten to it yet. It is on the short list.

Its done. Will be posted with next release.

[GWS]

Just my 2 cents here so please don't be offended.
I am blown away at how this project has taken off and all the innovations that have been brought to the table.
There are so many amazing ideas that I don't know where to start.
However, I find that we are adding way too many options/customizations to this project and it is making the manual equally bloated.
For instance, we now have 3 electronics boxes which doesn't really make much sense to me. It is a box to hold parts after all and shouldn't be specific to any particular build.......

I 99% agree. I just installed the another little switch board into my little box a few days ago.....it was successful eventually, but it's too small for an easy job. For now just remove it from the database, because people are all going to cuss it trying to shoe horn the little switch into it. I was planning to increase its size just a little to make installation easier for others.......a little, I say, because I don't like the giant mostly empty box on my proximity-switched collators that don't need all the electronics. I would agree with TylerR that any project ought to be handled with 2.....I will try to replace the little one this week.....replace not add to.....unless TylerR beats me to it and he's welcome, as I'm not competing, just trying to help. I'm crunched for time right now, Christmas holidays are ALWAYS tough on Building Contractors.....everybody wants it done by....Christmas!


.......I feel the same way about the main body. I LOVE the inserts idea and hope that more inserts are made for various operations. I think that should become the default option.......
I am sorry if I upset anybody but making this manual hasn't been easy and accommodating all these flavors in it makes it more tough.Thoughts?

Agree with Tyler.....put the insert modified base in experimental....and don't manualize it. Sorta like software betas....people may can download it and use it but don't expect documentation or support.

Tyler mentioned to you that I had volunteered to do some documenting, but I had no plans for the type of manual you did.....nor do I have your talents in that area. So I backed off and try to keep out of the way...... too busy during December anyway. My idea wasn't even a manual....I was just going to make a table of contents giving post #'s where to find informational posts by subject......whole nuther ball game. It still takes me an hour to find a post I want! I was blown away by your efforts and skill.....take whatever steps you need to prevent burnout. TylerR is a hard man to keep up with....period.;) And I mean that in a complimentary way.

[GWS]

Woot! Then we get to see some video. :)

Merry Christmas to you my friend!

Well tonight was not smooth sailing.....sorry. I decided to start the print for the big rifle case plate.....figured while it was printing I'd make videos of the case collator. That didn't happen....it was good, bad, and ugly! ;) and destroyed any chance to do a video.

When I have a print fail once in a while, I'm always surprised.....blown away, actually....each time I think I'm past beginner, I get humbled right back there!

I started the print, and all appeared to be going great, so I took my wife to the store for 30 minutes.....I came back to this:
the Ugly!
https://i.postimg.cc/bY9Tx5nC/IMG-3742.jpg
the Bad! The only thing I can figure is maybe the nozzle was too close to the bed.....I thought maybe it was flatter than usual...
https://i.postimg.cc/cChBdKZy/IMG-3743.jpg
And actually.....the Good!
https://i.postimg.cc/hP40p0bS/IMG-3746.jpg
Why good? Because I'm personally never going to load bigger rife cartridges than the .308 shown. And I realize that the big plate's slots are longer than necessary. So I'm not going to finish printing out the big one. I'll have to make my own plate more .308 sized.....I should be able to gain a slot even......so I'm glad I didn't print this afterall.

[TylerR]

GWS, was just heading to bed and saw your post. I patterned those plates after the Dillon plates, but after more thought I agree with you. I am going to design the large plate more around .308, and the small one around .223. If people want something else they can generate it.

[silahtar]

That one I posted should work well for you then. If it fits well I will post the small and medium ones.

This will be the next after the body... Much appreciated...

[lablover]

Been in work mode and the silly season has got me swamped.

Hope everyone has a great Christmas and stays safe.

Merry Christmas to all my loading and printing Brothers.

Joe

[o416]

v1.3 of the manual has been completed.... phew

Holy crap it is hard keeping up with you guys lol

Tyler is reviewing it and but please leave your feedback here once it is posted:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit?usp=drive_web&ouid=116560805765783503867

I think there are a some areas for improvement in this project in the following areas:
1. Streamlining the spring tubes/adapters for all springs; we have too much variety there
2. I love the "experimental" design for the main body as it has so much potential and would eliminate the need for some of our existing parts

[TylerR]

v1.3 of the manual has been completed.... phew

Holy crap it is hard keeping up with you guys lol

Tyler is reviewing it and but please leave your feedback here once it is posted:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eTfU2wqlT-MaJd-nfctjGdx-q-XpHgKxnIfWua8Uc1k/edit?usp=drive_web&ouid=116560805765783503867

I think there are a some areas for improvement in this project in the following areas:
1. Streamlining the spring tubes/adapters for all springs; we have too much variety there
2. I love the "experimental" design for the main body as it has so much potential and would eliminate the need for some of our existing parts

Looking really awesome man! I just sent my feedback. Nothing major.

Once I get my new springs I am going to try and narrow it down to hopefully 4 spring sizes that will just handle anything. If you look at the manual currently and compare the OD sizes on my adapters and Andar's, some of them are so close already (one is exact, 12.1mm)

[Anuccite]

Since Amazon seem to be the most economical way to purchase the Springs

The Manual has this link. I assume it's for the Large spring. But does not have one for Small, or Xlarge. What Size are we looking for for Rifle bullets, the 3/8 ID?

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01MTV5UW4

[noacess]

Since Amazon seem to be the most economical way to purchase the Springs

The Manual has this link. I assume it's for the Large spring. But does not have one for Small, or Xlarge. What Size are we looking for for Rifle bullets, the 3/8 ID?

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01MTV5UW4

Be advised, I bought that spring and it has the reverse thread pattern of the spring adapters. I think I figured out how to fix it but won't know 100% until I print it. If it works I'll provide feedback for the manual on how folks can do it themselves.

[TylerR]

Be advised, I bought that spring and it has the reverse thread pattern of the spring adapters. I think I figured out how to fix it but won't know 100% until I print it. If it works I'll provide feedback for the manual on how folks can do it themselves.

Were you able to find that earlier post?

We are going to make an update to the manual because clearly that spring is not directly compatible.

I am going to start working on my plan to create six sizes of the spring adapter that should handle anything even though I have not received my china springs yet. Then we can simplify the manual and the download files, and just say here are the six sizes, here are a couple of spring sources, figure it out. Having a documented system to reverse spring threads would definitely be helpful.

I am thinking I will design adapters to handle springs that have an OD of 10-15mm. In theory the ID range would be roughly 8-13mm.

[Anuccite]

Were you able to find that earlier post?

We are going to make an update to the manual because clearly that spring is not directly compatible.

I am going to start working on my plan to create six sizes of the spring adapter that should handle anything even though I have not received my china springs yet. Then we can simplify the manual and the download files, and just say here are the six sizes, here are a couple of spring sources, figure it out. Having a documented system to reverse spring threads would definitely be helpful.

I am thinking I will design adapters to handle springs that have an OD of 10-15mm. In theory the ID range would be roughly 8-13mm.

On my origional build... Using the light sensor tube, my spring would not stay in.. I ended up just putting a screw through the assembly to hold the spring in.... just far enough to grab it, but not interfere.

273770

[noacess]

Were you able to find that earlier post?

We are going to make an update to the manual because clearly that spring is not directly compatible.

I am going to start working on my plan to create six sizes of the spring adapter that should handle anything even though I have not received my china springs yet. Then we can simplify the manual and the download files, and just say here are the six sizes, here are a couple of spring sources, figure it out. Having a documented system to reverse spring threads would definitely be helpful.

I am thinking I will design adapters to handle springs that have an OD of 10-15mm. In theory the ID range would be roughly 8-13mm.

I looked back 10 posts or so and didn't see anything so I just started poking around with the slicer. I think effectively all you have to do is mirror the STL along the Z axis and that'll do the trick. In PrusaSlicer that's as simple as right clicking on the object and there is a "Mirror" menu item with an axis submenu. I have no idea about cura or any other slicer. I'm printing another base right now so I won't know for sure until the 24th when the printer is free.

[TylerR]

I looked back 10 posts or so and didn't see anything so I just started poking around with the slicer. I think effectively all you have to do is mirror the STL along the Z axis and that'll do the trick. In PrusaSlicer that's as simple as right clicking on the object and there is a "Mirror" menu item with an axis submenu. I have no idea about cura or any other slicer. I'm printing another base right now so I won't know for sure until the 24th when the printer is free.

I just checked Cura and it is almost as simple to do.

[TylerR]

I just checked Cura and it is almost as simple to do.

Final changes made to latest manual. It looks great. Thanks o416!
Posting it along with v1.3.0 of project.

Lots of little changes (for instance re-generated large/small rifle brass plates). Some small changes to file structure.

Should be up in the next 10 minutes or so.

Next on my list is to streamline these spring adapters to be flexible enough to handle just about any spring people want to use. Then after that I am taking a break, I swear this time!

[silahtar]

Hopefully, I won't be asking too much if I suggest a Mount Post Base for a 3/4" square profile. Original AM design had a tiltable mount design that works with the 3/4" profile...

Also, the manual I have seems to have Item C and D swapped on page 7, in case it wasn't captured before...

Tnx...

P.S.: Looks like manual version 1.3 has changed significantly, but there might still be a small correction needed; table at the top of the page has parts A-B and C-D, Images of the parts labelled A-B and A-B...

[TylerR]

Hopefully, I won't be asking too much if I suggest a Mount Post Base for a 3/4" square profile. Original AM design had a tiltable mount design that works with the 3/4" profile...

Also, the manual I have seems to have Item C and D swapped on page 7, in case it wasn't captured before...

Tnx...

P.S.: Looks like manual version 1.3 has changed significantly, but there might still be a small correction needed; table at the top of the page has parts A-B and C-D, Images of the parts labelled A-B and A-B...

I have seen the mount in his files. Do you have one setup with that mount? If so can you post some pics? Also, does the bolt have to go thru the actual square post?

[TylerR]

Would like to share a link to some springs that work perfect with my feeder dies. Just got them today and loving them compared to the rubber bands.

https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K947/

[Gork]

Would like to share a link to some springs that work perfect with my feeder dies. Just got them today and loving them compared to the rubber bands.

https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K947/

That link needs your logon and password, as it is your order history. I have been making the rubber bands by slicing them from a speargun rubber, tough, uv resistant, and almost free.

[silahtar]

I have seen the mount in his files. Do you have one setup with that mount? If so can you post some pics? Also, does the bolt have to go thru the actual square post?

Picture attached. This design allows height adjustment (not that I needed so far!) and the bolt indeed goes through the square post. As a quick solution, I was thinking of simply modifying the existing Post Base to take 19mm. square post, instead of the tube in the current design...

273788

[TylerR]

That link needs your logon and password, as it is your order history. I have been making the rubber bands by slicing them from a speargun rubber, tough, uv resistant, and almost free.

I fixed the first link. The correct one is actually in your quote.

[TylerR]

Picture attached. This design allows height adjustment (not that I needed so far!) and the bolt indeed goes through the square post. As a quick solution, I was thinking of simply modifying the existing Post Base to take 19mm. square post, instead of the tube in the current design...

273788

Yeah I could add that fairly quickly. All you need is the square tube part adapted to the Mount_Dillon_Hang_Base.

[silahtar]

Yeah I could add that fairly quickly. All you need is the square tube part adapted to the Mount_Dillon_Hang_Base.

Looks good to me, much appreciated...

[o416]

Final changes made to latest manual. It looks great. Thanks o416!
Posting it along with v1.3.0 of project.

Lots of little changes (for instance re-generated large/small rifle brass plates). Some small changes to file structure.

Should be up in the next 10 minutes or so.

Next on my list is to streamline these spring adapters to be flexible enough to handle just about any spring people want to use. Then after that I am taking a break, I swear this time!

My pleasure!

[noacess]

I looked back 10 posts or so and didn't see anything so I just started poking around with the slicer. I think effectively all you have to do is mirror the STL along the Z axis and that'll do the trick. In PrusaSlicer that's as simple as right clicking on the object and there is a "Mirror" menu item with an axis submenu. I have no idea about cura or any other slicer. I'm printing another base right now so I won't know for sure until the 24th when the printer is free.

My base print failed due to adhesion issues so I was able to try printing a new spring adapter with reverse threads. The good news is mirroring on the Z axis appears to have worked. The bad news is the OD of the springs linked below are 15.5mm (ID is 13mm) so they don't fit inside the large adapters. I'm tempted to print an extra large and check the fit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV5UW4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

My base print failed due to adhesion issues so I was able to try printing a new spring adapter with reverse threads. The good news is mirroring on the Z axis appears to have worked. The bad news is the OD of the springs linked below are 15.5mm (ID is 13mm) so they don't fit inside the large adapters. I'm tempted to print an extra large and check the fit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV5UW4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra large will fit. I know because that is the same size as the spring I designed it around, just reverse thread.

[TylerR]

My pleasure!

I think you are going to like what I have going on with the new spring adapters. We will offer 4 sizes, but they will be designed in such a way that they can handle most anything.

They will be patterned off the following:

13mm (1/2")
10mm (3/8")
9mm (5/16")
7mm (1/4")

When I say they will be flexible, I already know that my 13mm version fits both my extra large and large springs right now. So right there I have combined two in to one. I ordered a 8mm spring from China, but I strongly suspect the 9mm adapter will work for it. Those 4 sizes will be the standard though.

Should make that manual much simpler for you!

[o416]

I think you are going to like what I have going on with the new spring adapters. We will offer 4 sizes, but they will be designed in such a way that they can handle most anything.

They will be patterned off the following:

13mm (1/2")
10mm (3/8")
9mm (5/16")
7mm (1/4")

When I say they will be flexible, I already know that my 13mm version fits both my extra large and large springs right now. So right there I have combined two in to one. I ordered a 8mm spring from China, but I strongly suspect the 9mm adapter will work for it. Those 4 sizes will be the standard though.

Should make that manual much simpler for you!

Music to my ears man :)

[noacess]

Extra large will fit. I know because that is the same size as the spring I designed it around, just reverse thread.

Extra large works. Thanks!

[TylerR]

OK so the adapters are done, but it didn't end up being exactly what I said. o416 you will be glad to know it will at least be simple to document. I could not just make it 4 sizes, because even though the spring might fit in the adapter, if the spring ID is smaller then the adapter diameter the bullets would get hung up on the spring on the way down. So I just bit the bullet and made adapters from 7-13mm ID springs. The formula is very simple. The listed diameter is to roughly match the ID of the spring. The maximum allowable OD for that spring will be 3.5mm larger. So for example the 12mm adapter will work for springs with an ID of 12mm and OD max of 15.5mm.

Here would be the basic metric to imperial match-ups.

13mm (1/2")
12mm
11mm
10mm (3/8")
9mm
8mm (5/16")
7mm (1/4")

All adapters from 10mm down are now offset, so the reduction is from 11.5mm (instead of 16mm) down to the spring size. This will just make feeding reliability better overall.

The 5/16" is tough because it is 8.75mm ID. It is a perfect example of what I described above. It would fit in the 9mm adapter, but because the ID of the spring is 8.75mm according to Andar's spreadsheet, bullets would get hung up on the spring, so I have listed it under the 8mm adapter.

I have uploaded a new version.

We can also make mention of using the slicer program to mirror on the z axis in order to reverse thread direction.
o416 if you have any questions about updating the manual let me know.

[bigmike111]

Be advised, I bought that spring and it has the reverse thread pattern of the spring adapters. I think I figured out how to fix it but won't know 100% until I print it. If it works I'll provide feedback for the manual on how folks can do it themselves.

If you get the correct size spring adapter you can go into your slicer and mirror the piece and the threads will work perfectly.

[silahtar]

Medium fit perfectly... Didn't try the other two but thinking they'll fit as good as M as well... Much appreciated...

273843

[TylerR]

Just want to report back on the proximity sensor and using a relay. My suspicion was correct. The mcmaster motor current draw is too high for these proximity switches. The one GWS recommended is rated at 300mA of pass through current. The one I bought is rated for 200mA. The motor is rated at 1300mA full load. My guess is that the 300mA sensor is just high enough to get the motor running, but I suspect under heavy load that sensor could eventually burn out. I got my $8 2A solid state relay in today, wired it up and now it works like a dream. So I have been able to confirm the wiring diagram I posted earlier.

[GWS]

Just want to report back on the proximity sensor and using a relay. My suspicion was correct. The mcmaster motor current draw is too high for these proximity switches. The one GWS recommended is rated at 300mA of pass through current. The one I bought is rated for 200mA. The motor is rated at 1300mA full load. My guess is that the 300mA sensor is just high enough to get the motor running, but I suspect under heavy load that sensor could eventually burn out. I got my $8 2A solid state relay in today, wired it up and now it works like a dream. So I have been able to confirm the wiring diagram I posted earlier.

Thanks for the electronics education. I had no clue what a relay did.....okay now I have a clue....but that's all. ;) Got a link for the relay? And how big is it????

I've been playing with my electronics box.....increased the size just a little to make it easier to insert and connect the simple speed control I use. This is the resulting improvement. A little bigger is all, but I also made the hole for the speed control switch shaft actually fit without having to drill it bigger. and recessed the nut to make the shaft longer. Also I added mounting holes, to fit TylerR's base. Two sets...I plan to use the diagonal one. Will print one out tonight.

https://i.postimg.cc/D06YPdZN/Screenshot-2020-12-23-192858.png

I was playing around with the idea to shape it to the side of the base....used a push/pull command to stretch it through a cylinder the same diameter. Picture below:

https://i.postimg.cc/5N9rNGKW/Screenshot-2020-12-23-193422.png

Then I subtracted the cylinder from the box and it left the shape fitted to the cylinder using the diagonal holes as shown in the picture below:

https://i.postimg.cc/0503vxfC/Screenshot-2020-12-23-193605.png

the switch knob then points diagonally up...the three wires drop diagonally down. Looked neat, but there is one big problem.....I don't think I can print that on a 3d printer, no flat face on the bed! :) Oh well....maybe in two pieces.......The simple one I'm printing only touches the cylinder vertically, where the holes are.

It was fun learning a few more Autocad tricks though. I've spent a lifetime designing homes, buildings, even a grocery store in Autcad 2D, but learning the 3D side is kinda fun....never done this before. Without 3d printing in my life....it would have never happened. Most clients in my business aren't going to pay for 3d models....they may look neat but they take a lot more time and money.

[o416]

OK so the adapters are done, but it didn't end up being exactly what I said. o416 you will be glad to know it will at least be simple to document. I could not just make it 4 sizes, because even though the spring might fit in the adapter, if the spring ID is smaller then the adapter diameter the bullets would get hung up on the spring on the way down. So I just bit the bullet and made adapters from 7-13mm ID springs. The formula is very simple. The listed diameter is to roughly match the ID of the spring. The maximum allowable OD for that spring will be 3.5mm larger. So for example the 12mm adapter will work for springs with an ID of 12mm and OD max of 15.5mm.

Here would be the basic metric to imperial match-ups.

13mm (1/2")
12mm
11mm
10mm (3/8")
9mm
8mm (5/16")
7mm (1/4")

All adapters from 10mm down are now offset, so the reduction is from 11.5mm (instead of 16mm) down to the spring size. This will just make feeding reliability better overall.

The 5/16" is tough because it is 8.75mm ID. It is a perfect example of what I described above. It would fit in the 9mm adapter, but because the ID of the spring is 8.75mm according to Andar's spreadsheet, bullets would get hung up on the spring, so I have listed it under the 8mm adapter.

I have uploaded a new version.

We can also make mention of using the slicer program to mirror on the z axis in order to reverse thread direction.
o416 if you have any questions about updating the manual let me know.

On it! Love the simplicity of generalizing it :)

[o416]

Just want to report back on the proximity sensor and using a relay. My suspicion was correct. The mcmaster motor current draw is too high for these proximity switches. The one GWS recommended is rated at 300mA of pass through current. The one I bought is rated for 200mA. The motor is rated at 1300mA full load. My guess is that the 300mA sensor is just high enough to get the motor running, but I suspect under heavy load that sensor could eventually burn out. I got my $8 2A solid state relay in today, wired it up and now it works like a dream. So I have been able to confirm the wiring diagram I posted earlier.

So I should go with the diagram with the 2A relay in it?

[TylerR]

So I should go with the diagram with the 2A relay in it?

Yes, because it really is the correct way to handle the potential current load without passing it through the proximity sensor.

Here is a link to the relay. It is pretty small and compact. Fit easily in to my small electronics box with everything else.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B888WVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

Andar just want to throw out there. If you don't mind printing the drop tube adapters for the 4 imperial sizes of those pipe bender springs and see if they fit, I would appreciate the feedback.

[o416]

Tyler, do you mind giving me the ID/OD for the following DAA tube springs:
Small
Large
Extra Large

[o416]

It is worth mentioning that the large DAA springs work perfectly for .45 ACP brass and bullets. Not sure what the DAA extra large springs would offer others than a slightly larger ID. Guess they might be more reliable but I haven't had any issues.

[GWS]

Yes, because it really is the correct way to handle the potential current load without passing it through the proximity sensor.

Here is a link to the relay. It is pretty small and compact. Fit easily in to my small electronics box with everything else.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B888WVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thankyou. Just ordered a couple. Don't want to burn any sensors.....no sign of that mind you, but this is cheap insurance. You see the dimensions of my improved box....size-wise, how does it compare to your small box? Curious. BTW, no pressure to include anything I design or share. This is your project.....I'm just an interested student/bystander. Carry on.

[TylerR]

Tyler, do you mind giving me the ID/OD for the following DAA tube springs:


Got it sitting on a piece of paper right in front of me. lol

Small 10.15 / 11.9
Large 12.9 / 14.9
Extra Large 13.15 / 15.5

The extra large spring is basically a 1/2" spring, and you can see that because it matches Andar's specs exactly.

[TylerR]

It is worth mentioning that the large DAA springs work perfectly for .45 ACP brass and bullets. Not sure what the DAA extra large springs would offer others than a slightly larger ID. Guess they might be more reliable but I haven't had any issues.

If you are talking about in the manual then no. A 13mm (1/2") spring works perfectly as well, and both are available from other sources.

If people want to use their springs they will work perfectly fine with the adapters being offered. No need to mention them specifically.

[TylerR]

Thankyou. Just ordered a couple. Don't want to burn any sensors.....no sign of that mind you, but this is cheap insurance. You see the dimensions of my improved box....size-wise, how does it compare to your small box? Curious. BTW, no pressure to include anything I design or share. This is your project.....I'm just an interested student/bystander. Carry on.

I think it looks pretty slick. The dimensions look very similar to the small box I made.

[o416]

Just saw this file:
Drop_Hole_Proximity_Sensor_Extension

What is it for?

[TylerR]

Just saw this file:
Drop_Hole_Proximity_Sensor_Extension

What is it for?

Man you don't miss a thing do you? :)

It is part of GWS's proximity sensor solution. It adds some extra length for feeding smaller bullets more reliably. I will let him explain it further since it is his design.

[o416]

Man you don't miss a thing do you? :)

It is part of GWS's proximity sensor solution. It adds some extra length for feeding smaller bullets more reliably. I will let him explain it further since it is his design.

Nope lol

My attitude is do it right, or don't do it at all :) Can be a pain in the *** sometimes haha

I figured that's what it is for. I put it down as an optional part in the manual.

I sent you v1.4, have a look!

[TylerR]

Nope lol

My attitude is do it right, or don't do it at all :) Can be a pain in the *** sometimes haha

I figured that's what it is for. I put it down as an optional part in the manual.

I sent you v1.4, have a look!

Just sent feedback. You nailed it man. Only found one misspelled word. Everything else we have been talking about you covered. Outstanding job.

[o416]

Just sent feedback. You nailed it man. Only found one misspelled word. Everything else we have been talking about you covered. Outstanding job.

Thanks Tyler!

[TylerR]

New manual has been posted. :)

[Anuccite]

I must say, This newer design is real nice..... I ordered the Greartisan JGY-370 Motor, so that Base is next up on the printer....

ESun PLA+

273865

[o416]

Has anybody had their hex coupler destroy a collator plate? Mine just did lol It carved through my large brass one :(

I don't know why that happened, but when I put the plate in the collator, I would say 1-2mm of the coupler protrudes out of the hex slot.

I was thinking about increasing the height of the collator plate from 8mm to maybe 10mm but I am worried that they won't tip over during collation.

Tyler, what do you think? I would rather not pin the motor shaft.

[o416]

Has anybody had their hex coupler destroy a collator plate? Mine just did lol It carved through my large brass one :(

I don't know why that happened, but when I put the plate in the collator, I would say 1-2mm of the coupler protrudes out of the hex slot.

I was thinking about increasing the height of the collator plate from 8mm to maybe 10mm but I am worried that they won't tip over during collation.

Tyler, what do you think? I would rather not pin the motor shaft.

I made mine with a screw slot even though it wasn't necessary as I grinded my set screw and made it flush with the coupler. I am wondering if that created a weak spot for me. I made one without a set screw hole and will see how that works.

Regardless, any feedback would be great :)

[Anuccite]

Has anybody had their hex coupler destroy a collator plate? Mine just did lol It carved through my large brass one :(

I don't know why that happened, but when I put the plate in the collator, I would say 1-2mm of the coupler protrudes out of the hex slot.

I was thinking about increasing the height of the collator plate from 8mm to maybe 10mm but I am worried that they won't tip over during collation.

Tyler, what do you think? I would rather not pin the motor shaft.

The Coupler should not matter if it sticks further through... did it spin around during a jam? I've had my MBF motor do that to a plate as well.... My solution was to print a 80% infil plate to make it stronger...

[o416]

The Coupler should not matter if it sticks further through... did it spin around during a jam? I've had my MBF motor do that to a plate as well.... My solution was to print a 80% infil plate to make it stronger...

I am not sure if there was a jam but the coupler was spinning inside the shaft cut out and deformed the hex shape.

More infill is not a bad idea, but I only need it at the top of the hex handle. I think Cura may have a setting for that.

[Andar]

Andar just want to throw out there. If you don't mind printing the drop tube adapters for the 4 imperial sizes of those pipe bender springs and see if they fit, I would appreciate the feedback.

Will do, just need to wait for the little one to go for a nap so I can get everything sliced up.

[o416]

There is a cool feature in Cura called support blocker that allows you to pick different print settings at different layer heights :)

I will print the handle at 100% while leaving the rest at 20% and see how that goes.

[Anuccite]

There is a cool feature in Cura called support blocker that allows you to pick different print settings at different layer heights :)

I will print the handle at 100% while leaving the rest at 20% and see how that goes.

It would be nice If you could make a circle around the center of the whole plate and make that area 100%

[o416]

It would be nice If you could make a circle around the center of the whole plate and make that area 100%

That is what this feature (support blocker) lets you do. You make a cube around the area and select your settings for it. Anything within that cube gets those settings.

[Anuccite]

That is what this feature (support blocker) lets you do. You make a cube around the area and select your settings for it. Anything within that cube gets those settings.

Oh, So not just specific whole layers.... I will check that out

[TylerR]

Has anybody had their hex coupler destroy a collator plate? Mine just did lol It carved through my large brass one :(

I don't know why that happened, but when I put the plate in the collator, I would say 1-2mm of the coupler protrudes out of the hex slot.

I was thinking about increasing the height of the collator plate from 8mm to maybe 10mm but I am worried that they won't tip over during collation.

Tyler, what do you think? I would rather not pin the motor shaft.

I just posted a version of the generator that will add a couple mm to the top of the handle for hex. If its is still not high enough you could probably go to 10 on the plate without issue for large brass.

[o416]

I just posted a version of the generator that will add a couple mm to the top of the handle for hex. If its is still not high enough you could probably go to 10 on the plate without issue for large brass.

Thanks Tyler! Making the handle larger makes more sense :)

[GWS]

Man you don't miss a thing do you? :)

It is part of GWS's proximity sensor solution. It adds some extra length for feeding smaller bullets more reliably. I will let him explain it further since it is his design.

Nope not bullet, smaller brass. And since the top mounted Proximity Sensor housing is purged from the database, you probably won't need that part, since putting the sensor low just above the feed die TylerR style won't stop bullets or cases anywhere near the turn plate.

What I ran into (only on .223 cases) was the bullet stack would stop 1/4" above the outlet, proud into the turning plate and bind it all. The system was just too fast to stop them in time. That extension just gave it another case length above the sensor to stop the turning plate before that case dropped. /308 cases stop sooner and have no problems.

The reason I built my feeders (pre 3dprinter and post 3dprinter) to stop bullets and cases after filling the tubes, was that that was the way it was done then....Dillon, RCBS, Hornady case feeders all.....and since the early bullet feeder dies all required "stack weight" to work. Mounting switches low is new. Maybe better for most, but new.

Only aggravation for low is wires in the way of things that have to be dealt with.....and as long as the short stack works.....fine.

[TylerR]

Nope not bullest, smaller brass. And since the top mounted Proximity Sensor housing is purged from the database, you probably won't need that part, since putting the sensor low just above the feed die TylerR style won't stop bullets or cases anywhere near the turn plate.

What do you mean purged from the database? All your stuff is in the download, and covered in the manual as well. Unless I missed something.

[o416]

Nope not bullest, smaller brass. And since the top mounted Proximity Sensor housing is purged from the database, you probably won't need that part, since putting the sensor low just above the feed die TylerR style won't stop bullets or cases anywhere near the turn plate.

What I ran into (only on .223 cases) was the bullet stack would stop 1/4" above the outlet, proud into the turning plate and bind it all. The system was just too fast to stop them in time. That extension just gave it another case length above the sensor to stop the turning plate before that case dropped. /308 cases stop sooner and have no problems.

The reason I built my feeders (pre 3dprinter and post 3dprinter) to stop bullets and cases after filling the tubes, was that that was the way it was done then....Dillon, RCBS, Hornady case feeders all.....and since the early bullet feeder dies all required "stack weight" to work. Mounting switches low is new. Mayb e better for most, but new.

Only aggravation for low is wires in the way of things that have to be dealt with.....and as long as the short stack works.....fine.

GWS, your 4 files are located in the Adapters folder. Nothing was purged :)

[TylerR]

GWS, your 4 files are located in the Adapters folder. Nothing was purged :)

There are actually 6 files total:

Drop_Hole_Proximity_Sensor_223
Drop_Hole_Proximity_Sensor_Extension
Drop_Hole_Proximity_Sensor_Housing
Drop_Hole_Proximity_Sensor_Thread_Insert
Drop_Hole_RCBS_Tube_Adapter_Large
Drop_Hole_RCBS_Tube_Adapter_Small

All your stuff is documented on pages 12 and 13 of the manual. I think o416 just wants to make sure he is getting it correct.

[Anuccite]

Nope not bullest, smaller brass. And since the top mounted Proximity Sensor housing is purged from the database, you probably won't need that part, since putting the sensor low just above the feed die TylerR style won't stop bullets or cases anywhere near the turn plate.

What I ran into (only on .223 cases) was the bullet stack would stop 1/4" above the outlet, proud into the turning plate and bind it all. The system was just too fast to stop them in time. That extension just gave it another case length above the sensor to stop the turning plate before that case dropped. /308 cases stop sooner and have no problems.

The reason I built my feeders (pre 3dprinter and post 3dprinter) to stop bullets and cases after filling the tubes, was that that was the way it was done then....Dillon, RCBS, Hornady case feeders all.....and since the early bullet feeder dies all required "stack weight" to work. Mounting switches low is new. Mayb e better for most, but new.

Only aggravation for low is wires in the way of things that have to be dealt with.....and as long as the short stack works.....fine.

GWS.... Most Reloading machines the top of the machine stays put.... and Your Design works very well....(stack the tube) I'm running a Dillon 1050, and the Top of the machine is what moves... I found that letting my spring fill up, Caused issues... I am currently using an older light beam design, and it only sends rounds down the spring when needed....

I will say, I have not make a case feeder yet, So I cannot comment there.

[GWS]

What do you mean purged from the database? All your stuff is in the download, and covered in the manual as well. Unless I missed something.

I didn't look in Adapters......senile is my only excuse. But seriously, I'm not sure those files will be used by others....so I was expecting them to be purged in the simplification project....the database is getting big and o416 could use some more streamlining. He's done a great job, but nobody can make just one mole hill out of a mountain.... just too much dirt...;)

I like TylerR's slip on proximity Tee, simple...elegant and if it works having a wall between then super. Mine's open inside....except for the .223 insert ;) The only other closed one I made, was an accident and it didn't work well, because it didn't let the sensor get close enough, being round inside.....???? Maybe I gave up on it too soon.

I noticed TylerR's is straight down too....so is my case feeder version, but bullets worked with just one tube as long as they leaned on the way down on the sensor.

[TylerR]

I didn't look in Adapters......senile is my only excuse. But seriously, I'm not sure those files will be used by others....so I was expecting them to be purged in the simplification project....the database is getting big and o416 could use some more streamlining. He's done a great job, but nobody can make just one mole hill out of a mountain too much dirt...;)

I like TylerR's slip on proximity Tee, simple...elegant and if it works having a wall between then super. Mine's open inside....except for the .223 insert ;) The only other closed one I made, was an accident and it didn't work well, because it didn't let the sensor get close enough, being round inside.....???? Maybe I gave up on it too soon.

I noticed TylerR's is straight down too....so is my case feeder version, but bullets worked with just one tube as long as they leaned on the way down on the sensor.

No worries my friend. :)

I want to keep your stuff in the project because it offers a completely different solution then mine, and that is why its also in the manual.
I did feel it made more sense in the adapters folder then the drop tube folder, and that is why we moved it.

I will tell you 0416 is a stickler for details though, so please excuse him if he picks your brain on how it functions. Haha

And if you decide to make any changes or improvements, let's be sure it gets back in to the project.

[Andar]

TylerR, the files I'm testing are Spring_Adapter_x_DT (7,8,10,13) right?

Just about to slice and print.

[TylerR]

TylerR, the files I'm testing are Spring_Adapter_x_DT (7,8,10,13) right?

Just about to slice and print.

Exactly. Really appreciate it!

Please make sure you have downloaded the absolute latest though.

[Andar]

Exactly. Really appreciate it!

Please make sure you have downloaded the absolute latest though.

Yup, just downloaded it. Haven't grabbed a new version since 1.2.0
Modification date for #13 is ‎"December ‎23, ‎2020, ‏‎9:55:30 PM" if you're worried.

[TylerR]

Yup, just downloaded it. Haven't grabbed a new version since 1.2.0
Modification date for #13 is ‎"December ‎23, ‎2020, ‏‎9:55:30 PM" if you're worried.

Actually you know what. Let me repost to be sure. I dont want to waste your time on the wrong files. Re-uploading it now. Will name it v1.3.2

It's up there now.

[cdstang]

ESun PLA+ Grey prints really nice.. Making a Case collator plate now.

273871


I must say, This newer design is real nice..... I ordered the Greartisan JGY-370 Motor, so that Base is next up on the printer....

ESun PLA+

[Andar]

Actually you know what. Let me repost to be sure. I dont want to waste your time on the wrong files. Re-uploading it now. Will name it v1.3.2

It's up there now.

Printing now. Will be done in 2.5 hours, but unknown if I can confirm fitment before around 10pm or so.

Files looked the same by the way.

[TylerR]

Printing now. Will be done in 2.5 hours, but unknown if I can confirm fitment before around 10pm or so.

Files looked the same by the way.

Sounds great. Thanks again.

[TylerR]

Looks like there may be an issue with some of the APP insert sizes, so if you were planning on printing any hold off for now.

[Macscotts56]

Has anybody had their hex coupler destroy a collator plate? Mine just did lol It carved through my large brass one :(

I don't know why that happened, but when I put the plate in the collator, I would say 1-2mm of the coupler protrudes out of the hex slot.

I was thinking about increasing the height of the collator plate from 8mm to maybe 10mm but I am worried that they won't tip over during collation.

Tyler, what do you think? I would rather not pin the motor shaft.

Did the set screw rip out of the brass coupler? While building mine and testing I inadvertently created a jam and the motor kept turning which ripped the set screw out of the coupler. The brass adapter I used doesn't seem to have enough threads.
I'm printing the collator with hex couplers and will see how those work with the brass hex adapter. I believe the set screw on the hex adapters from the manual are M4 and the adapter I used has an M3 set screw. If I continue to have issues with the set screw ripping out of the adapters I'll make an adapter out of steel on my mill and lathe.

Side note question, has anyone created a collator that just adapts directly onto the motor shafts with flats?

[GWS]

GWS.... Most Reloading machines the top of the machine stays put.... and Your Design works very well....(stack the tube) I'm running a Dillon 1050, and the Top of the machine is what moves... I found that letting my spring fill up, Caused issues... I am currently using an older light beam design, and it only sends rounds down the spring when needed....

I will say, I have not make a case feeder yet, So I cannot comment there.

This is what my case feeder drop tube is like:

https://i.postimg.cc/jjGrCJMf/IMG-3747.jpg
So o416, the "Extension" we were talking about a couple of posts ago to keep the .223 cases below the collating wheel is the part between the Tee and the outlet. So there's 3 parts under the outlet....extension (only for .223), Proximity switch housing, and RCBS tube adaptor. done.

TylerR, notice the Dayton motor near identical to your big motor, but faster....thank goodness the speed control works fine with it slowing it down to useable. Maybe the relay I ordered will keep it working fine.... (gotta get those wires tucked away...they bug me!)
https://i.postimg.cc/cHwG34zb/IMG-3748.jpg
The RCBS stroke activated case feeder is the aluminum colored part below the clear tube.....see typical case feeder....;) As you can see, no spring tube on this kind, needed or wanted.....straight down, straight to the shuttle. Not much different than Lee's APP....or any of the others factory types...jus cheaper! And nothing to annoy or be in the way, of even a 1050 top motion.

Soon I'll get done and clean up this mess and get back to loading.....would be nice since that's the point of all of this.

[TylerR]

Lablover. I believe you said you printed the APP bullet insert for 32acp correct? When you get a chance can you measure it's length for me?

[TylerR]

Looks like there may be an issue with some of the APP insert sizes, so if you were planning on printing any hold off for now.

OK so I think I figured it out. It looks like at some point I accidentally added 5.5mm to the inserts. Probably one night after too many beers. lol
In the coding world this is what we would call a regression bug. :)

I have uploaded another version with hopefully the corrected inserts. Still is v1.3.2 but should have updated time stamp.

Lablover if you could still verify the 32acp for me that would be great. I never printed that one so I have no reference.

[TylerR]

ESun PLA+ Grey prints really nice.. Making a Case collator plate now.

273871

Thank you both for the feedback, and I love seeing pics and videos, so please feel free to continue to share.

[TylerR]

Replied to really old post here by accident.

[TylerR]

This is what my case feeder drop tube is like:

So o416, the "Extension" we were talking about a couple of posts ago to keep the .223 cases below the collating wheel is the part between the Tee and the outlet. So there's 3 parts under the outlet....extension (only for .223), Proximity switch housing, and RCBS tube adaptor. done.

TylerR, notice the Dayton motor near identical to your big motor, but faster....thank goodness the speed control works fine with it slowing it down to useable. Maybe the relay I ordered will keep it working fine.... (gotta get those wires tucked away...they bug me!)

The RCBS stroke activated case feeder is the aluminum colored part below the clear tube.....see typical case feeder....;) As you can see, no spring tube on this kind, needed or wanted.....straight down, straight to the shuttle. Not much different than Lee's APP....or any of the others factory types...jus cheaper! And nothing to annoy or be in the way, of even a 1050 top motion.

Soon I'll get done and clean up this mess and get back to loading.....would be nice since that's the point of all of this.

GWS, these pics I think will help o416 understand more of what you have going on. Thanks for sharing.

[Anuccite]

Still "Days to Go" But here is my start....

273889

[tanders]

273890

Thank you for all your hardwork. Attached is a picture of where I am currently at with your feeders. I can't wait to try them out. Just upgraded from a 550

[TylerR]

Still "Days to Go" But here is my start....

273889

Looking good!

[TylerR]

273890

Thank you for all your hardwork. Attached is a picture of where I am currently at with your feeders. I can't wait to try them out. Just upgraded from a 550

Oh man looks like you have a great setup going on there. Which motor is that on the one? Is that the 634JS?

[GWS]

273890

Thank you for all your hardwork. Attached is a picture of where I am currently at with your feeders. I can't wait to try them out. Just upgraded from a 550

Oh yuck, Blue again! Just kidding! Looks Great to me!

[tanders]

Yes it is the 634js. I made a mount for the Dillon 750 and an enclosure for both units. Along with the enclosure I made some ball and socket connectors so it is easy to remove and adjust location.

[TylerR]

Yes it is the 634js. I made a mount for the Dillon 750 and an enclosure for both units. Along with the enclosure I made some ball and socket connectors so it is easy to remove and adjust location.

It looks really good. Very clean.

[Andar]

The 7 doesn't fit.
8 fits the 1/4.
10 fits the 5/16 and the 3/8 but it might go a little loose over time. I can't pull the spring out, so it's good.
13 fits the 1/2 but is a little tight. That could be my print because I had some stringing.

I'll try with some projectiles and cases later, I just had a quick minute.

[TylerR]

The 7 doesn't fit.
8 fits the 1/4.
10 fits the 5/16 and the 3/8 but it might go a little loose over time. I can't pull the spring out, so it's good.
13 fits the 1/2 but is a little tight. That could be my print because I had some stringing.

I'll try with some projectiles and cases later, I just had a quick minute.

What is the wire dia. of those springs?

[Andar]

1mm except for the 1/2 which is 1.1 mm.

[silahtar]

That one I posted should work well for you then. If it fits well I will post the small and medium ones.

Hi Tyler, just printed the #9 drop tube to sit on top of the M Hornady feeder die adaptor, however, they did not couple well. #9 Drop Tube ID I can measure max came out to be 16.35mm while the OD of the Hornady Feeder adaptor max came out to be 16.60mm. All other parts I've printed so far coupled nicely except these two. I was wondering what was your design dimensions...? I'll sand and get these couple, just wanted to provide feedback...

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler, just printed the #9 drop tube to sit on top of the M Hornady feeder die adaptor, however, they did not couple well. #9 Drop Tube ID I can measure max came out to be 16.35mm while the OD of the Hornady Feeder adaptor max came out to be 16.60mm. All other parts I've printed so far coupled nicely except these two. I was wondering what was your design dimensions...? I'll sand and get these couple, just wanted to provide feedback...

I just double checked in CAD and the OD of all the hornady adapters is the same, 16.44mm. Same with all the drop tubes. Confirmed 9mm DT ID is 16.56mm. Are you printing these at .12mm layer height and high quality settings?

[Rage 01]

ESun PLA+ Grey prints really nice.. Making a Case collator plate now.

273871

Let me know the temps you are using, nozzle sixe, hotend, printer and where you got it from and I will add it to the list I have going.

[o416]

OK so I think I figured it out. It looks like at some point I accidentally added 5.5mm to the inserts. Probably one night after too many beers. lol
In the coding world this is what we would call a regression bug. :)

I have uploaded another version with hopefully the corrected inserts. Still is v1.3.2 but should have updated time stamp.

Lablover if you could still verify the 32acp for me that would be great. I never printed that one so I have no reference.

Thx man! Will print them once my collator plate comes off the printer.

[silahtar]

I just double checked in CAD and the OD of all the hornady adapters is the same, 16.44mm. Same with all the drop tubes. Confirmed 9mm DT ID is 16.56mm. Are you printing these at .12mm layer height and high quality settings?

Well, guilty as charged, I printed them .16mm. Little photosensor/LED knobs fitted nicely though.

It only took me couple minutes to sand and fit the DT and Hornady adaptor together... Just wanted to confirm it wasn't due to design dimensions...

[o416]

Well, guilty as charged, I printed them .16mm. Little photosensor/LED knobs fitted nicely though.

It only took me couple minutes to sand and fit the DT and Hornady adaptor together... Just wanted to confirm it wasn't due to design dimensions...

You violated the manual silahtar, go and sit in a time out lol

[o416]

Merry Christmas to all of you :) Stay safe and enjoy the company of your loved ones.

[Rage 01]

Merry Christmas to all... Stay safe out there and have your self a wonderful new year!

[Anuccite]

Let me know the temps you are using, nozzle sixe, hotend, printer and where you got it from and I will add it to the list I have going.

205 Tool Temp
50 Bed Temp
.04 Nozzle
Stock hot end
BL Touch
Upgraded Main board to SRK Mini E3 V2.0
Ender 3. Probably got it from Amazon a while ago....

[lablover]

Lablover. I believe you said you printed the APP bullet insert for 32acp correct? When you get a chance can you measure it's length for me?

Sorry this is late but I’ve been living at work. Just measured and it’s 73mm in length

[o416]

Sorry this is late but I’ve been living at work. Just measured and it’s 73mm in length

You might need to print it again because the part should be 67.5mm

[tanders]

Does anyone else have issues with the threads on the ramps stripping out? I keep trying all kinds of different things and have not been successful.

[o416]

Does anyone else have issues with the threads on the ramps stripping out? I keep trying all kinds of different things and have not been successful.

Which ramps?

[TylerR]

Sorry this is late but I’ve been living at work. Just measured and it’s 73mm in length

Yeah I think it is 5.5mm too long. If so try the one in the latest download.

[TylerR]

Well, guilty as charged, I printed them .16mm. Little photosensor/LED knobs fitted nicely though.

It only took me couple minutes to sand and fit the DT and Hornady adaptor together... Just wanted to confirm it wasn't due to design dimensions...


I find that using some acetone to smooth out all the layers also works very well.

[lablover]

Yeah I think it is 5.5mm too long. If so try the one in the latest download.

What affect does the length have on function? Only reason I ask is it’s been working great. I could swear you made it longer for the .32 for a reason but can’t remember why.

I’ll try to get the new one printed up after the silly season

[o416]

What affect does the length have on function? Only reason I ask is it’s been working great. I could swear you made it longer for the .32 for a reason but can’t remember why.

I’ll try to get the new one printed up after the silly season

The longer ones were causing jams for me because the cases couldn't fall down all the way.

[cdstang]

Let me know the temps you are using, nozzle sixe, hotend, printer and where you got it from and I will add it to the list I have going.

X5sa (From Aliexpress)
eSun PLA+ Grey
210 Hotend Temp
.04 Nozzle
Hotend V6 All Metal
35 Bed Temp
Spring Steel Sheet applied PEI Build Plate
X5sa Upgrade to pro rails
Stock Controller Flash with Marlin

[TylerR]

Sorry this is late but I’ve been living at work. Just measured and it’s 73mm in length

And you are able to push the insert all the way when processing bullets. Based on my recent observation it should be closer to 67.5mm. Also, have you tried feeding brass with it?

[TylerR]

The 7 doesn't fit.
8 fits the 1/4.
10 fits the 5/16 and the 3/8 but it might go a little loose over time. I can't pull the spring out, so it's good.
13 fits the 1/2 but is a little tight. That could be my print because I had some stringing.

I'll try with some projectiles and cases later, I just had a quick minute.

I have to admit I am a little stumped by these results. The #7 thread has an OD of 11mm. According to your chart the 1/4" spring has an OD of 9.15mm. Makes no sense to me that with 2mm of extra clearance it won't fit. I also measured the OD of the threads on your version of the 1/4" adapter and it is also 11mm.

I can see the 5/16"(OD 10.75mm) not fitting the #8, but it should definitely fit in the #9, which has a thread OD of 13mm.
The #13 has an OD thread dia of 17mm, which is slightly more than my old XL adapter. So that one only has 1.5mm of clearance but you say is working but tight.

The inner part of the thread is basically a 1.25mm half circle, so that should easily handle the 1mm wire size.

Maybe I need to buy a set of these just to play with.

Adding a pic from 3d cad to show the thread design and pattern:
273938

[o416]

And you are able to push the insert all the way when processing bullets. Based on my recent observation it should be closer to 67.5mm. Also, have you tried feeding brass with it?

New inserts work perfectly with 9mm and .45 brass now :) Thx Tyler!

[TylerR]

New inserts work perfectly with 9mm and .45 brass now :) Thx Tyler!

OK good, glad I managed to get it right. haha

[lablover]

And you are able to push the insert all the way when processing bullets. Based on my recent observation it should be closer to 67.5mm. Also, have you tried feeding brass with it?

No I have not tried brass yet, just sizing bullets. Insert seems to push all the way just fine.

273941

Edit, is there a different insert for brass. Now that I think of it my bullets barely fit diameter wise In this. No way brass will

[TylerR]

No I have not tried brass yet, just sizing bullets. Insert seems to push all the way just fine.

273941

Edit, is there a different insert for brass. Now that I think of it my bullets barely fit diameter wise In this. No way brass will

Funny you should ask. I am re calculating the dimensions for that insert, and it was really just for bullets. I think that is why you have had success. I am opening the diameter to 9.2mm and the length to 70mm and I think it should then handle both.

[TylerR]

Re-uploaded with new APP .32 acp Bullet/Brass insert. If you get a chance lablover please give it a try and let me know how it works for both.

[Andar]

I have to admit I am a little stumped by these results. The #7 thread has an OD of 11mm. According to your chart the 1/4" spring has an OD of 9.15mm. Makes no sense to me that with 2mm of extra clearance it won't fit. I also measured the OD of the threads on your version of the 1/4" adapter and it is also 11mm.


Sorry, tested again using the other side of the spring and the 1/4 fits the 7. I guess I mangled it a bit during prototyping.

[TylerR]

Sorry, tested again using the other side of the spring and the 1/4 fits the 7. I guess I mangled it a bit during prototyping.

Oh perfect! That makes me feel better :)

[GWS]

Oh perfect! That makes me feel better :)

Okay, now go enjoy Christmas! :)

[TylerR]

Okay, now go enjoy Christmas! :)

Haha, yes sir :)

Day has been great so far.

[lablover]

Re-uploaded with new APP .32 acp Bullet/Brass insert. If you get a chance lablover please give it a try and let me know how it works for both.

Have to work tomorrow but I’ll give it a print Sunday and report back

[tanders]

How is everyone hookup the collator to a dillon 750?

[o416]

How is everyone hookup the collator to a dillon 750?

Please look at the mounts section in the manual to see the two options available.

[TylerR]

Please look at the mounts section in the manual to see the two options available.

The manual is the key. And never could we just direct people to it before. You have done us a great service by producing it. Creating the design and files is one thing, but documenting it well is equally as important. I salute you my friend. well done.

Edited to add, if you are confused where to find this manual, just click on the "downloads" section of my signature.

[o416]

The manual is the key. And never could we just direct people to it before. You have done us a great service by producing it. Creating the design and files is one thing, but documenting it well is equally as important. I salute you my friend. well done.

Edited to add, if you are confused where to find this manual, just click on the "downloads" section of my signature.

Thanks man :)

Honestly I just wanted to give back after receiving some much from you and others. Your hard work and professionalism set the standard for me, so I didn't want to disappoint.

[TylerR]

Thanks man :)

Honestly I just wanted to give back after receiving some much from you and others. Your hard work and professionalism set the standard for me, so I didn't want to disappoint.

I just had to keep up with your specificity. :drinks:

[tanders]

I have been thru the manual, quite a few times and it is well put together. I am looking at all the parts and I think I will have to create an adapter to tie the case feed adapters. I have created an adapter and I will be printing one as soon as my printer is free.

[TylerR]

I have been thru the manual, quite a few times and it is well put together. I am looking at all the parts and I think I will have to create an adapter to tie the case feed adapters. I have created an adapter and I will be printing one as soon as my printer is free.

Please feel free to share with whatever solution you come up with.

[tanders]

If it works I have no problems sharing. Lets find out if it works.

[GWS]

Hope everybody had a merry Christmas! Finally my family who came (living locally) went home tonight, so I started my printer up again :)

https://i.postimg.cc/FsfDpSB6/IMG_3747.jpg

No........not bright green Christmas ornaments.....my new electronic box for the case collator......a 3 piece box this time. Hope it turns out. The third piece is a stand-off to fit the collator cylinder better.......just wanted to try something a tad different. Be done at 5 am. If Murphy allows..... hope to show you more tomorrow.

[Anuccite]

My Base is finally complete..... I'd say Cura is pretty spot on.... Look at difference in estimated vs actual

273971
273972

[cdstang]

Here is a test run with 9mm cases. Still some work left.


https://youtu.be/bFpDf3OxUrs

[GWS]

Perfect Model ....dang bed still can't nail the corners....even the poly bed, but I like the 3rd piece of the box, and the size of the box is so much easier to wire and install....yet still pretty small. If you can print the corners tight it's a perfect model....fits the base so fine. This is going to do it for me. Not anal enough to print the box bottom again.
https://i.postimg.cc/7ZHpnkc6/IMG-3753.jpg
Above: Models printed on the bed....the 3rd piece above the box and lid is the transition to the curved base.
https://i.postimg.cc/tg7w8z9G/IMG-3754.jpg
Above: Original small box I made worked, but wiring was hell. Did not want to wish that on others.;) Jus too small.
https://i.postimg.cc/VNTpwbNr/IMG-3755.jpg
Above: See, room to wire and rotate the board....and even add TylerR's Relay to it, which I ordered.
https://i.postimg.cc/Qdfv6zGq/IMG-3756.jpg
Above: And here's the fitted transition to the collator base. Since there was no flat surface to build the box with it built-in.

Notice that even the corners on this little piece lifted a little......wish I knew what I'm doing wrong....printing my Zyltech Satin Green PLA composite at 215 C with a 70 C bed. Maybe not hot enough? I don't understand the process I guess.

So how does my new proximity switched case feeder/collator work with .223 in the Pro Chucker 7? Fine....

RCBS Pro-Chucker owners may notice that the pusher is non stock.....I never liked their "V" block....so I 3D printed a real pusher to glove over the factory part and used a hex bolt through where the set screw held it holding both parts secure....about as simple a mod as there is.....works fine for .308 as well.....for that matter it works for all the pistol calibers too.


https://youtu.be/WsypNe7X-28

Now I think its high time I cleaned my reloading bench.......and my 3d printing bench.......and keep my wife happy.....

[Rcmaveric]

Have you tried a simple heated glass bed with Elmer's glue stick and turning your parts cooling fan off? .... I have had more than one model stick too good. Cheaper dollar store glue stick works also but needs a few light coats to build up a film. I prefer that because parts are more likely to pop off after cooling. I broke a glass bed getting a bullet feed tube and flipper plate off because of Elmer's glue. Never had a problem with warping and corners.

I learned to cut glass and use scrap and reclaimed glass panels so its free.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[Andar]

Worst case print everything with a brim so that lifts up instead of the actual part. If it keeps going then tape the brim down too haha.

Clean your bed and check it for divots. Try also lowering the bed temperature down a bit. 5 degree increments on test pieces until it works or a colloidal failure.

[GWS]

I clean with 99% alcohol as I was taught before every single print. Maybe too much cleaning glosses them. Creality's treated glass lasted a month and then started lifting, and now the polypr. bed (which I sanded with 220 grit sandpaper as per TylerR's directions, is going the same way after a couple of months. Maybe it's the alcohol.....

Seems everyone has their own recipe for good prints, and I've tried two. I just am balking at gluesticks and/or masking tape. That's sounds like a royal pain in the ***.......as does having to use a brim........you then have to sand or file off? And the bed temp. I've heard more heat, less heat. Hard to keep it straight, frankly....

I guess I'm expecting stable cause and effect.......just don't have a clue what causes what and why? The bed cools down and allows you to lift the print.....so why would I "lower" the bed temperature to make it stick better.....guess I'm just too dumb to understand that.:veryconfu

[silahtar]

Printing is pretty much done, electronics box is about to be completed, waiting on the motor and electronic parts. I have one last hurdle to deal with though, wanted to ask your opinion on how to deal with it. I'm using an RCBS Piggyback Conversion kit and a Pro200 auto-index progressive press. These won't accommodate case feeding, so currently focused on bullet feeding only. Obviously, the shell plates for these units have a relatively smaller diameter so dies on the tool head are way too close to each other. As a result, as seen in the first picture, the powder measure is pushing the drop tube sideways when the shell plate is lowered. It will hangup on the down-stroke as well.

AM drop dupe was shorter overall so it worked out for this setup. The current drop tube, even without the spring adaptor, is a bit too tall. Wonder if the off-set drop tube adaptor for LEE APP could go in-between the Hornady adaptor and the drop tube, or, is there plans to develop shorter drop tubes, which would be some work as there are different IDs involved...

Thought I ask... Thanks...

274006274007274008

[silahtar]

I clean with 99% alcohol as I was taught before every single print. Maybe too much cleaning glosses them. Creality's treated glass lasted a month and then started lifting, and now the polypr. bed (which I sanded with 220 grit sandpaper as per TylerR's directions, is going the same way after a couple of months. Maybe it's the alcohol.....

Seems everyone has their own recipe for good prints, and I've tried two. I just am balking at gluesticks and/or masking tape. That's sounds like a royal pain in the ***.......as does having to use a brim........you then have to sand or file off? And the bed temp. I've heard more heat, less heat. Hard to keep it straight, frankly....

I guess I'm expecting stable cause and effect.......just don't have a clue what causes what and why? The bed cools down and allows you to lift the print.....so why would I "lower" the bed temperature to make it stick better.....guess I'm just too dumb to understand that.:veryconfu

I use the glass that came with the Creality 10S for about 2 years or so. I clean with methanol before every new print. First layer 200degC, 0.3mm first layer, 60deg bed temperature (PLA). 2nd layer on is 195degC filament temp and 55deg bed temperature. I always print with 10mm brim and will tape the part down over the brim for long prints just in case... One can easily see if there is any disbonding between the glass and 1st layer using a flashlight directed from the side of the glass bed (see picture, there is a little bit of disbonding around the section closer to the camera, but the brim is holding up nicely...).
274010

[GWS]

I don't get brims......I understand what they might do.....take the edge problems further from the print, but I don't understand what you do with them once the print is finished.....file 'em off? and that looks good? Dumber than a stone here.

Also answering your question in your earlier post. (I load with a R.C. and Pro 2000, and also the Pro Chucker in my video above. I'm having zero problems with clearance because I don't use those tall things on my die plates.....just a feed die. Where I switch is just under the collator using a proximity sensor. They make work for you better if you have clearance problems. TylerR has the stl's for those under adapters in his database.

One more thing.....I actually was successful making a tube case feeder for my Pro 2000. I'll post a link below for you so you can see what I did long before I found a 3d printer to play with....... but one of my next projects is to print another collator to feed pistol brass for that feeder too........once done, all of my progressives from the Lee APP to the ProChucker 7 will have collators, case and bullet, available to them.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/rcbs-pro-2000-case-feeder-its-done.659144/#post-8162302

https://i.postimg.cc/vThH0drv/IMG-1272.jpg

[tanders]

I was able to adapt it to the 750. I cut the dillon clear tube in half and made the adapter in the attached picture to make it fit to the dillon tube. Well I had to edit the post apparently I can't upload any more pictures.
Here is the link.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12qh4TNgk7PZDbIReXVpepuuQrCFpIAfF?usp=sharing

[bigmike111]

I clean with 99% alcohol as I was taught before every single print. Maybe too much cleaning glosses them. Creality's treated glass lasted a month and then started lifting, and now the polypr. bed (which I sanded with 220 grit sandpaper as per TylerR's directions, is going the same way after a couple of months. Maybe it's the alcohol.....

Seems everyone has their own recipe for good prints, and I've tried two. I just am balking at gluesticks and/or masking tape. That's sounds like a royal pain in the ***.......as does having to use a brim........you then have to sand or file off? And the bed temp. I've heard more heat, less heat. Hard to keep it straight, frankly....

I guess I'm expecting stable cause and effect.......just don't have a clue what causes what and why? The bed cools down and allows you to lift the print.....so why would I "lower" the bed temperature to make it stick better.....guess I'm just too dumb to understand that.:veryconfu

Are you leveling the bed before each print?

I had a lot of lifting when I first started. I then made it a point to clean the bed with alcohol and cleaning patches, after it is clean I pre-heat the bed for 5-10 minutes then level the bed before each print.

I hate printing brims because the piece tends to look bad without a good amount of work to cut/sand etc.

With a clean and level bed I don’t have many issues at 210/55.

[silahtar]

I don't get brims......I understand what they might do.....take the edge problems further from the print, but I don't understand what you do with them once the print is finished.....file 'em off? and that looks good? Dumber than a stone here.

Also answering your question in your earlier post. (I load with a R.C. and Pro 2000, and also the Pro Chucker in my video above. I'm having zero problems with clearance because I don't use those tall things on my die plates.....just a feed die. Where I switch is just under the collator using a proximity sensor. They make work for you better if you have clearance problems. TylerR has the stl's for those under adapters in his database.

One more thing.....I actually was successful making a tube case feeder for my Pro 2000. I'll post a link below for you so you can see what I did long before I found a 3d printer to play with....... but one of my next projects is to print another collator to feed pistol brass for that feeder too........once done, all of my progressives from the Lee APP to the ProChucker 7 will have collators, case and bullet, available to them.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/rcbs-pro-2000-case-feeder-its-done.659144/#post-8162302

https://i.postimg.cc/vThH0drv/IMG-1272.jpg

Nice work on the Pro 2000, congrats...

Brim usually comes off by hand, sometimes it will require cleaning with a x-acto knife. If I need edges to look sharp and clean, I use the colder/lower section of a lighter flame and run a quick pass...

In my case, I think it best solution will be moving the drop tube up under the device... Thanks...

[stanford]

I am trying to print this thing but I don't know exactly what the necessary parts are that's needs to be printed up front, so far I have the base and .45 shell plate. I see parts called nose down which I don't want the bullet to go nose down. In the text file I see these but I dont know if its a complete example, in videos I see so many printed pieces and those pieces are not in the files I have.


Thanks

[HuskJ]

Tyler, quick question, in the OpenScad settings for say 45 ACP have you seen where it will not let you type in 11.5 but only 11 or 12? My version appears to only allow hole numbers when I edit "caliber". Thoughts?

[HuskJ]

I read the manual yesterday, wow! Well done!

[TylerR]

Tyler, quick question, in the OpenScad settings for say 45 ACP have you seen where it will not let you type in 11.5 but only 11 or 12? My version appears to only allow hole numbers when I edit "caliber". Thoughts?

I have never seen that no. I can put in any number I want there.

[silahtar]

Tyler, quick question, in the OpenScad settings for say 45 ACP have you seen where it will not let you type in 11.5 but only 11 or 12? My version appears to only allow hole numbers when I edit "caliber". Thoughts?

Try comma, your regional setting may affect that...

[silahtar]

I don't get brims......I understand what they might do.....take the edge problems further from the print, but I don't understand what you do with them once the print is finished.....file 'em off? and that looks good? Dumber than a stone here.

Also answering your question in your earlier post. (I load with a R.C. and Pro 2000, and also the Pro Chucker in my video above. I'm having zero problems with clearance because I don't use those tall things on my die plates.....just a feed die. Where I switch is just under the collator using a proximity sensor. They make work for you better if you have clearance problems. TylerR has the stl's for those under adapters in his database.

One more thing.....I actually was successful making a tube case feeder for my Pro 2000. I'll post a link below for you so you can see what I did long before I found a 3d printer to play with....... but one of my next projects is to print another collator to feed pistol brass for that feeder too........once done, all of my progressives from the Lee APP to the ProChucker 7 will have collators, case and bullet, available to them.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/rcbs-pro-2000-case-feeder-its-done.659144/#post-8162302

https://i.postimg.cc/vThH0drv/IMG-1272.jpg

I'm set up to run the collator with LED/photosensor, it appears we do not have a way to connect the drop tube under the collator, or hopefully, I'm missing something...?

[o416]

I'm set up to run the collator with LED/photosensor, it appears we do not have a way to connect the drop tube under the collator, or hopefully, I'm missing something...?

Ummm, not sure what exactly you are asking here. I tried my best to make the manual in a step-by-step format.

Your collator connects to the top of the drop tube via a tube spring for which we have provided spring adapters of varying sizes.

The bottom of your drop connects to your bullet feed die.

Hope that helps.

[tanders]

Tyler,

My adapter seems to work pretty well.(tested with 9mm and 223) If someone is interested in it here is the link for it. I am not the best at modeling but it functions correctly. I also have attached my mounting system to the 750 for anyone to use if wanted.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QJB1P9ae2jheiLkOHtu6S2-yf9cpuTsd?usp=sharing

[silahtar]

Ummm, not sure what exactly you are asking here. I tried my best to make the manual in a step-by-step format.

Your collator connects to the top of the drop tube via a tube spring for which we have provided spring adapters of varying sizes.

The bottom of your drop connects to your bullet feed die.

Hope that helps.

Sure, manual is clear enough. I was asking if there is a way I can install the drop tube right under the collator. But raising it with a clear tube may work as well... Thanks tanders...

[TylerR]

Sure, manual is clear enough. I was asking if there is a way I can install the drop tube right under the collator. But raising it with a clear tube may work as well... Thanks tanders...

I l believe if you are looking to put the drop tube directly under the collator that would be GWS's solution, no?

[TylerR]

Printing is pretty much done, electronics box is about to be completed, waiting on the motor and electronic parts. I have one last hurdle to deal with though, wanted to ask your opinion on how to deal with it. I'm using an RCBS Piggyback Conversion kit and a Pro200 auto-index progressive press. These won't accommodate case feeding, so currently focused on bullet feeding only. Obviously, the shell plates for these units have a relatively smaller diameter so dies on the tool head are way too close to each other. As a result, as seen in the first picture, the powder measure is pushing the drop tube sideways when the shell plate is lowered. It will hangup on the down-stroke as well.

AM drop dupe was shorter overall so it worked out for this setup. The current drop tube, even without the spring adaptor, is a bit too tall. Wonder if the off-set drop tube adaptor for LEE APP could go in-between the Hornady adaptor and the drop tube, or, is there plans to develop shorter drop tubes, which would be some work as there are different IDs involved...

Thought I ask... Thanks...

274006274007274008

I am whipping up an adapter which will allow you to convert from the standard drop tube interface, to an APP offset. This would allow you to accomplish your goal of getting more clearance. I will post them in just a bit for you to try.

[TylerR]

I am whipping up an adapter which will allow you to convert from the standard drop tube interface, to an APP offset. This would allow you to accomplish your goal of getting more clearance. I will post them in just a bit for you to try.

Just uploaded. give it a shot. So you would go from the hornady die adapter, Then add this new conversion adapter I just uplodaded. "APP_Offset_Drop_Tube_Adapter_Large" Then you should be able to mount on the APP offest adapters and go from there.

[lablover]

Tyler

Printed new APP .32 bullet/brass drop tube. Works like it should! Now I understand why the shorter version is needed.

I really need to print that APP slider for brass. The stock app slider is crap.

[TylerR]

Tyler

Printed new APP .32 bullet/brass drop tube. Works like it should! Now I understand why the shorter version is needed.

I really need to print that APP slider for brass. The stock app slider is crap.

Excellent to hear. I love it when a plan comes together. haha
Yes, you should print my brass slide. Much better support on the base of the brass.

[TylerR]

I have created a new folder called contributors under the main downloads folder. It is here that I will put new projects and concepts in until they get moved to the main project.

[lablover]

Excellent to hear. I love it when a plan comes together. haha
Yes, you should print my brass slide. Much better support on the base of the brass.

Printing as we speak...can’t wait to see all those supports come off. Oh boy

[silahtar]

Just uploaded. give it a shot. So you would go from the hornady die adapter, Then add this new conversion adapter I just uplodaded. "APP_Offset_Drop_Tube_Adapter_Large" Then you should be able to mount on the APP offest adapters and go from there.

Thanks a lot, noticed you've uploaded 3 sizes, going with the medium for 9mm... Will let you know how it goes...

[silahtar]

Just uploaded. give it a shot. So you would go from the hornady die adapter, Then add this new conversion adapter I just uplodaded. "APP_Offset_Drop_Tube_Adapter_Large" Then you should be able to mount on the APP offest adapters and go from there.

It works... Fit perfectly, see picture. Great work Tyler...
274086

I have one suggestion if you don't mind, I think it may be beneficial to increase the length of the female side of Hornady feeder die adaptor 12mm or so to increase stability (circled in red)... Currently, it is grabbing half of the available surface...

[TylerR]

It works... Fit perfectly, see picture. Great work Tyler...

I have one suggestion if you don't mind, I think it may be beneficial to increase the length of the female side of Hornady feeder die adaptor 12mm or so to increase stability (circled in red)... Currently, it is grabbing half of the available surface...

Excellent. I will go ahead and make those longer. Also realized I only need one sized adapter that will fit all.

[TylerR]

OK so there is a new part in the Adapters folder called "Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter"
This will connect any adapter that has a male drop tube fitting to fit the APP offset connectors.

All spring adapters now have numbers on the part itself.

There is also a "Flush" version for 8 and 10mm. These are to be used with the #11 Nose Down Slide Plate.

[o416]

I have created a new folder called contributors under the main downloads folder. It is here that I will put new projects and concepts in until they get moved to the main project.

Replacing the Experimental folder in the ZIP file?

[TylerR]

Replacing the Experimental folder in the ZIP file?

No, it will be in addition to it. Please don't document it in the manual.

[noacess]

TylerR - What do you think of this proximity sensor? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746H3X1W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2VILSBUHD1UD8&psc=1

[TylerR]

TylerR - What do you think of this proximity sensor? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746H3X1W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2VILSBUHD1UD8&psc=1

It has to be an "inductive" switch. If you want to go with cheap but not as small and compact use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don't care about price and small size is more important go with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Otherwise find me a small compact inductive NC 18mm dia sensor with 8mm of detection range, that is cheaper, and that is what you should buy. This one would be great but it is NO: NVM it is also AC. lol

[silahtar]

OK so there is a new part in the Adapters folder called "Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter"
This will connect any adapter that has a male drop tube fitting to fit the APP offset connectors.

All spring adapters now have numbers on the part itself.

There is also a "Flush" version for 8 and 10mm. These are to be used with the #11 Nose Down Slide Plate.

Started printing new versions. Will let you know how it goes, much appreciated.

[TylerR]

Started printing new versions. Will let you know how it goes, much appreciated.

Look forward to the feedback.

[noacess]

It has to be an "inductive" switch. If you want to go with cheap but not as small and compact use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don't care about price and small size is more important go with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Otherwise find me a small compact inductive NC 18mm dia sensor with 8mm of detection range, that is cheaper, and that is what you should buy. This one would be great but it is NO: NVM it is also AC. lol
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWSDK7G/ref=emc_b_5_i

Thanks for the links. If folks don't mind waiting ebay has the PRD18-14DN2 for 15 - 16 bucks shipped from China.

[TylerR]

Thanks for the links. If folks don't mind waiting ebay has the PRD18-14DN2 for 15 - 16 bucks shipped from China.

Link?

[TylerR]

Link?

My good friend Ed has provided an alternative link to that sensor
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ONE-Autonics-Proximity-Switch-PRD18-14DN2/163134291885?hash=item25fb8fbfad:g:6a0AAOSwKAJbPXn Y

[silahtar]

Look forward to the feedback.
All fit perfectly... Much appreciated.
274161

[Anuccite]

With the Large Electronics box, What is the large hole for? The Small one below it, is perfect for my Speed controller, But the large one seems unnecessary.

[TylerR]

With the Large Electronics box, What is the large hole for? The Small one below it, is perfect for my Speed controller, But the large one seems unnecessary.

The hole is for the switch.

[Anuccite]

The hole is for the switch.

It's Huge... I plugged it... Reprinting.. I had a different switch. Maybe, A couple blank boxes For those less inclined to mess in tinkercad or the likes.... Drilling is easy!

[TylerR]

It's Huge... I plugged it... Reprinting.. I had a different switch. Maybe, A couple blank boxes For those less inclined to mess in tinkercad or the likes.... Drilling is easy!

I have added blank template versions of both boxes for anyone who wants to drill their own holes to customize.

[TylerR]

All fit perfectly... Much appreciated.


if you print the latest adapter posted it will fit on any male drop tube fitting. One size for all.

[TylerR]

273890

Thank you for all your hardwork. Attached is a picture of where I am currently at with your feeders. I can't wait to try them out. Just upgraded from a 550

Tanders, I have your files out in the "contributors" folder at the moment. I think it is a very cool setup. Like I said nice and clean. Is there anyway you could give us more detail on how to set it up and what electronics you used. I can see it being added in to the project but I would like myself and o416 to have a firmer grasp on how it all works.

Thanks!

[TylerR]

Question for the group. Any other feed die calibers or APP inserts you would like to be made? Now's the time to make the requests.

[tanders]

Tanders, I have your files out in the "contributors" folder at the moment. I think it is a very cool setup. Like I said nice and clean. Is there anyway you could give us more detail on how to set it up and what electronics you used. I can see it being added in to the project but I would like myself and o416 to have a firmer grasp on how it all works.

Thanks!

Yes, I am actually currently updating with some adapters now. I loaded about 400 rounds and had some issues with microswitches approximately every 100 rounds. This was not an issue with the adapter but the switch itself. I am going to try GWS (which required me to create an adapter to get to the dillon tube). I will print it tomorrow sometime and also have that update available.
I only have two changes from the written manual in my electrical box. The first was the sensor plug which I used a jst plug two prong plug. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRBKSY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used these since I am using microswitches and had them laying around, but I am going to change the box away from the JST since I am going to be going to the proximity sensors. I will be revising the box shortly to use the same exit plug for the sensor you are. I am waiting on the plugs to show up.
The second change is the speed controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GP72BWV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have ordered the ones from the manual but they are not expected delivery until almost February for some reason. The only thing that worries me with mine is there is not available heat sink for it and if running collator for an extended period of time I will have overheating issues.

[Anuccite]

I know There is recommended Wall thickness for each part... But what about Top/Bottom Layers?
Should we just base it off the profile? .12=7, .20=4, etc?

[o416]

I know There is recommended Wall thickness for each part... But what about Top/Bottom Layers?
Should we just base it off the profile? .12=7, .20=4, etc?

I normally go with the standard settings, but 4 top and bottom layers is more than enough.

[noacess]

I have added blank template versions of both boxes for anyone who wants to drill their own holes to customize.

Really what someone (maybe me) should do is make a youtube video on how to measure electronics and make your own holes in something like tinkercad. We'll see where I'm at when I get closer to building my electronics for my brass collator. I've got two of the smaller proximity switches coming in the mail that I scored from a US seller on ebay. They're coming USPS sadly which means I probably won't see them until February.

[GWS]

Yes, I am actually currently updating with some adapters now. I loaded about 400 rounds and had some issues with microswitches approximately every 100 rounds. This was not an issue with the adapter but the switch itself. I am going to try GWS (which required me to create an adapter to get to the dillon tube). I will print it tomorrow sometime and also have that update available.
I only have two changes from the written manual in my electrical box. The first was the sensor plug which I used a jst plug two prong plug. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRBKSY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used these since I am using microswitches and had them laying around, but I am going to change the box away from the JST since I am going to be going to the proximity sensors. I will be revising the box shortly to use the same exit plug for the sensor you are. I am waiting on the plugs to show up.
The second change is the speed controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GP72BWV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have ordered the ones from the manual but they are not expected delivery until almost February for some reason. The only thing that worries me with mine is there is not available heat sink for it and if running collator for an extended period of time I will have overheating issues.

The Chinese are changing the playing field daily......I was surfing from the page you posted above and found several other cheap switches that are intriguing. I think the choices are increasing! :)

Another site that I've use and love is LED Supply. I got these 99 cent pig tails for connecting wall warts (wall outlet power supplies) to these electrical boxes. Check them out! https://www.ledsupply.com/wire-connectors-plugs

https://i.postimg.cc/tTSjY3HX/21m-pc-wire.jpg

My next project for my Pro Chucker 7 is a 3D printed LED hanger that hangs off the handy holes at the top of the casting. More on that later, but LED supply is also a cheap source for quality LED strips........I remodeled my kitchen ceiling with those, too.

[noacess]

Here is a test run with 9mm cases. Still some work left.


https://youtu.be/bFpDf3OxUrs

What's the STL file name that interfaces the spring with the Lee tube?

Thanks!

[cdstang]

What's the STL file name that interfaces the spring with the Lee tube?

Thanks!

I just made it in fusion. Here is a link to the file hope it can help you..

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pOEfKWyNb-MdIK0dzulFScVcHQezWbKb?usp=sharing

[TylerR]

I just made it in fusion. Here is a link to the file hope it can help you..

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pOEfKWyNb-MdIK0dzulFScVcHQezWbKb?usp=sharing

Can you tell me in more detail what this is adapting to? What size spring? What size Lee tube?

[cdstang]

Can you tell me in more detail what this is adapting to? What size spring? What size Lee tube?

The spring I have is 14mm(OD) ordered from aliexpress and the lee tube I used was 14.2mm(OD)

[TylerR]

So I got a little crazy and created a "Drop_Hole_Drop_Tube_Adapter" and three "Drop_Tube_Drop_Hole_X" adapters. So you can convert back and forth as many time as you want now. haha

[TylerR]

Really what someone (maybe me) should do is make a youtube video on how to measure electronics and make your own holes in something like tinkercad. We'll see where I'm at when I get closer to building my electronics for my brass collator. I've got two of the smaller proximity switches coming in the mail that I scored from a US seller on ebay. They're coming USPS sadly which means I probably won't see them until February.

Great idea! Guess who just got nominated to make it happen? :)
I got a similar response from o416 about a manual and look how that turned out....

[TylerR]

The spring I have is 14mm(OD) ordered from aliexpress and the lee tube I used was 14.2mm(OD)

Is the ID roughly 12mm?

[cdstang]

Is the ID roughly 12mm?

Yes it is.

[TylerR]

Yes it is.

Would you mind printing out one of my 12mm drop tube adapters and see if it fits?

[cdstang]

Would you mind printing out one of my 12mm drop tube adapters and see if it fits?

Sure can what is the file name of it?

[TylerR]

Sure can what is the file name of it?

Adapters folder. "Spring_Adapter_12_DT". Very small part so should go quick. Print at .12 layers.

[TylerR]

o416 can we put something in the manual that talks about using an xacto kinfe to trim off any "elephants foot" from the surface that touches the build plate? I try to design in a bevel on anything I can, bit I know for example the spring adapters all print with the base of the threads down, and that can cause issues.

Unless it's already in there, which is possible knowing you :)

[cdstang]

Adapters folder. "Spring_Adapter_12_DT". Very small part so should go quick. Print at .12 layers.

So is the Spring_Adapter_12_DT the labeling of that file would be for 12mm OD? The spring Im using is 14mm(OD) 12mm(ID)

Im currently using your Spring_Adapter_12.stl file on the top part of the spring.
274363

[TylerR]

So is the Spring_Adapter_12_DT the labeling of that file would be for 12mm OD? The spring Im using is 14mm(OD) 12mm(ID)

Im currently using your Spring_Adapter_12.stl file on the top part of the spring.


The labeled sizes are for the ID. So 12 would be for 12mm ID, OD of roughly 14mm.

If you are already using that part then I have my answer :)

[noacess]

TylerR - Do you know if your spring adapters are supposed to be compatible with GWS's proximity housing (Drop_Hole_Proximity_Sensor_Housing.stl)? I'm wondering if I need to do some sanding or if the notches are different sizes/depths. My plan is to go from Collator -> GWS's proximity housing -> Spring Adapter -> Spring -> Spring/tube adapter -> tube. This is for brass collating. I'll be feeding different presses which is why I need the spring since I can't perfectly align the collator right above the drop tube for multiple presses. Feedback is appreciated as always!

Thanks

[TylerR]

TylerR - Do you know if your spring adapters are supposed to be compatible with GWS's proximity housing (Drop_Hole_Proximity_Sensor_Housing.stl)? I'm wondering if I need to do some sanding or if the notches are different sizes/depths. My plan is to go from Collator -> GWS's proximity housing -> Spring Adapter -> Spring -> Spring/tube adapter -> tube. This is for brass collating. I'll be feeding different presses which is why I need the spring since I can't perfectly align the collator right above the drop tube for multiple presses. Feedback is appreciated as always!

Thanks

They are supposed to be as far as I know.

[noacess]

They are supposed to be as far as I know.

Hmm, In order to get it to fit I first tried dremeling down the notches on the sides since they seemed bigger than the ones on GWS adapter. That didn't work so then I dremeled the top down and now it fits perfect. I'm not sure if I just dremeled down the top if it would have worked or not. I really need to learn how to use a cad program so I can figure this stuff out the proper way.


274418

[cdstang]

Hmm, In order to get it to fit I first tried dremeling down the notches on the sides since they seemed bigger than the ones on GWS adapter. That didn't work so then I dremeled the top down and now it fits perfect. I'm not sure if I just dremeled down the top if it would have worked or not. I really need to learn how to use a cad program so I can figure this stuff out the proper way.


274418

Its a little tight but once worked a little they are lose now.. Did have to do anything to them. Do look into the female side and check how the printing is in there.. Just a tad bit of cleaning up from printing.

[noacess]

Its a little tight but once worked a little they are lose now.. Did have to do anything to them. Do look into the female side and check how the printing is in there.. Just a tad bit of cleaning up from printing.

I need to print another one anyways to reverse the threads to the spring. We'll see how it goes.

[HuskJ]

44 Mag

[silahtar]

Hmm, In order to get it to fit I first tried dremeling down the notches on the sides since they seemed bigger than the ones on GWS adapter. That didn't work so then I dremeled the top down and now it fits perfect. I'm not sure if I just dremeled down the top if it would have worked or not. I really need to learn how to use a cad program so I can figure this stuff out the proper way.


274418

Try heating, works like a charm...

[GWS]

They are tight for a reason.....I hate slop.;) At least on my printer they go in and turn.....then they get looser with use. Better than getting sloppy with use. Of course printers are different too. Never tried the heat idea.....how hot do you heat?

My first ones made for Mikes's pieces were sloppy, so I tightened them up a little.

I'm printing a honey do today: a shelf for the shampoo/conditioner rack in the shower.....wife doesn't like the wire frame shelf she bought so wondered if I could print a cover.....and keep the invert the near empty bottle holes.;)

Only reason I'm posting a picture of this is to show a new PLA choice I bought from Zyltec.....ran out of white. It's called "Uncle Jessy Gunmetal." (Redleg Ed sent me a sample of it and I liked what I saw) The wavy fill doesn't show it yet but it's pretty shiny......I'm thinking I will print some reloading things this color too....kinda like it. I think it's going to look great with the green stuff!

https://i.postimg.cc/05KrcWZs/IMG-3770.jpg

[Assnolax]

Does anyone have a winning configuration for 40sw brass mouth down for bulge busting? I'm getting roughly 5% feeding base down and an occasional case going sideways in the adapter/funnel creating an obstruction.

large pistol base up collator
large base up slide plate
short sweeper
base up ramp
40 degrees tilt.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.

[Falconpunch]

Have a xl750 coming in, I use the post mount for my AP currently. Can the post mount fit on Dillon's case mount tube? Switching over to case feeding for now, Should I buy a set of case tubes incase I need to cut for size?

[TylerR]

Does anyone have a winning configuration for 40sw brass mouth down for bulge busting? I'm getting roughly 5% feeding base down and an occasional case going sideways in the adapter/funnel creating an obstruction.

large pistol base up collator
large base up slide plate
short sweeper
base up ramp
40 degrees tilt.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.

You need more angle on the feeder. We recommend 45 degrees for everything except base up case feeding. For base up go to 55-60% tilt. This is required to get the rocking motion on the pivot
Point. If you do a search on my original post describing how it works it may help. If it’s not currently in the manual we can look to add it.

Just wanted to add the base up case feeding took me 6 weeks to work out. It’s a very finicky beast. Do a lot of experimenting with motor speed and angle and you should be able to get it more reliable then what you have now.

One more thing. I created the wall extender specifically for the base up feeding. Once you put so much tilt on the feeder it helps keep the brass in the feeder.

[TylerR]

Have a xl750 coming in, I use the post mount for my AP currently. Can the post mount fit on Dillon's case mount tube? Switching over to case feeding for now, Should I buy a set of case tubes incase I need to cut for size?

My post mount is 1” same as the Dillon post.

[GWS]

The gun metal silver isn't quite as shiny as I thought it was going to be, but I still like it. I printed an idea I had to light up a Pro Chucker 7 with Leds today. Wired it up, thought I'd share it. Redleg Ed has a new one, so this is my contribution.....not quite perfected, as in the top anchors are smaller than I thought they were going to be....that's what you get for designing in inches and converting to mm to print.....still learning..... I'll fix that and reprint tomorrow.....still works fine, just the principle. :)

Anyway below is the piece I just printed in Zyltec Gunmetal Silver:

https://i.postimg.cc/QNP7rXD9/IMG-3777.jpg
Below: I recessed a spot for the LED to sit in, angled the ends so they can't fall out, and printed holes for the wires....
https://i.postimg.cc/nrsQQW4h/IMG-3776.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/j2Gn6hcQ/IMG-3778.jpg
Below: Sure it works! You could mirror the print and hang one on the other side if you really want light.
https://i.postimg.cc/CLqqhWMv/IMG-3779.jpg
One thing I really like is the ability to just lift to remove them if you want to put the press away, or take it to the range bolted to your tailgate?
I'll bet you guys can can figure out how to to come up with something that works similar for your press.....when your bullet feeders are done.;)

[RedlegEd]

Hi GWS,
Very cool! Thanks!
Ed