Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

TylerR, what I see in the new picture is stuff that will catch an edge and turn it......unfortunately it reminds me of a construction accident I experienced when I was 24. I was roofing a building, and a freak gust of wind caught the plywood I was carrying, and threw me backwards into an open skylight.....I would have hit the ground head and shoulders first except that I hit my head on the way through and it turned me enough that I hit back first and only broke my back in two places. ;) Getting airlifted to a hospital and surviving was the difference.

What I think you want here is NOTHING visible in the hole....IOW's you have the outlet screwed to the bottom of the base, and the parts twist screwed into the bottom of it BIGGER than the outlet....so all you see is air......thus giving the bullets a chance to use the slight weight difference at the base a chance to stabilize base down.

You have the right idea for the bevel to a diameter where the bullet can't turn at all, but you can't have edges that a bullet can knick.

[lablover]

If that doesn't work, we will go to plan C. Offset drop hole. Will work perfect, just have to design the part so the offset sits on the outside edge.

272327

Yea, that’s brilliant! Kudos

[TylerR]

TylerR, what I see in the new picture is stuff that will catch an edge and turn it......unfortunately it reminds me of a construction accident I experienced when I was 24. I was roofing a building, and a freak gust of wind caught the plywood I was carrying, and threw me backwards into an open skylight.....I would have hit the ground head and shoulders first except that I hit my head on the way through and it turned me enough that I hit back first and only broke my back in two places. ;) Getting airlifted to a hospital and surviving was the difference.

What I think you want here is NOTHING visible in the hole....IOW's you have the outlet screwed to the bottom of the base, and the parts twist screwed into the bottom of it BIGGER than the outlet....so all you see is air......thus giving the bullets a chance to use the slight weight difference at the base a chance to stabilize base down.

You have the right idea for the bevel to a diameter where the bullet can't turn at all, but you can't have edges that a bullet can knick.

That is one heck of a story GWS!

I am not sure if you are talking about the last pic I posted of the offset hole, but there will not be any edges for any bullets to hit. That is a must. All the offset hole does is allows the bullet to fall from the very outside of the plate without having to be "funneled" in to a smaller diameter to fit the small spring.

I will get one printed and demo it using my 9mm rounds, but it will basically be a 10mm hole from top to bottom. No funnel.

[GWS]

No, didn't see the last picture of yours, you posted just before I did!....I was looking at at least two edges in lablover's last picture.

The only thing I worry about with the new part you just posted is that it might be too small to drop that bullet in fast enough....but then it's not tall, and you can run it slow enough to let it fall.

Now on my "other" problems....;)

This is incarnation #4 for the proximity switch. Made to print small side down, because I'm sick and tired of trying to print the female twist turn at the bottom and have a terrible mess to clean up in it.

https://i.postimg.cc/5tKfvrSW/Proximity-Switch-4a.pnghttps://i.postimg.cc/fbRwVsXv/Proximity-Switch-4b.png

I was hoping TylerR will see this and critique before I print it. And BTW, the little outlet he just designed would have taken me 2 days......at my age I have to relearn over and over and over......it's a real pain....hope you all don't get old.

[lablover]

If that doesn't work, we will go to plan C. Offset drop hole. Will work perfect, just have to design the part so the offset sits on the outside edge.

272327

Last adapter did not work at all. Was just like the original design done. Bullets would not even drop. Seems like when the adapter goes to the top of the bowl is when the problems start. The one design you made that was longer but shorter in the area that went up into the collater was the best so far.

[TylerR]

Last adapter did not work at all. Was just like the original design done. Bullets would not even drop. Seems like when the adapter goes to the top of the bowl is when the problems start. The one design you made that was longer but shorter in the area that went up into the collater was the best so far.

Great feedback, thanks. I think this idea is going to solve your issue. Printing one now.

[TylerR]

No, didn't see the last picture of yours, you posted just before I did!....I was looking at at least two edges in lablover's last picture.

The only thing I worry about with the new part you just posted is that it might be too small to drop that bullet in fast enough....but then it's not tall, and you can run it slow enough to let it fall.

Now on my "other" problems....;)

This is incarnation #4 for the proximity switch. Made to print small side down, because I'm sick and tired of trying to print the female twist turn at the bottom and have a terrible mess to clean up in it.

I was hoping TylerR will see this and critique before I print it. And BTW, the little outlet he just designed would have taken me 2 days......at my age I have to relearn over and over and over......it's a real pain....hope you all don't get old.

I definitely like the look of it! My only question is the support webbing at the top. That would not seem necessary to me.

[GWS]

I definitely like the look of it! My only question is the support webbing at the top. That would not seem necessary to me.

The support webbing at the bottom is to prevent support garbage.
The support webbing at the top will be the bottom when used, so it'll provide physical support for the Sensor hanging out there and maybe last longer. I guess I don't trust the plastic holding that up without a fillet long term.

How about the little nubs at the bottom? Will they print without support problems if the bottom is rounded that way? Is it enough?

You notice I left off the finger grip......heck since it has a "handle" to turn it, I guessed the finger grip was not necessary.;)

[TylerR]

The support webbing at the bottom is to prevent support garbage.
The support webbing at the top will be the bottom when used, so it'll provide physical support for the Sensor hanging out there and maybe last longer. I guess I don't trust the plastic holding that up without a fillet long term.

How about the little nubs at the bottom? Will they print without support problems if the bottom is rounded that way? Is it enough?

Looks like they should print fine to me.

[GWS]

Thanks....you'd know....I'm just trying to get past beginner still with this 3d printing skill.

[lablover]

Thanks....you'd know....I'm just trying to get past beginner still with this 3d printing skill.

I think you have the printing down pretty good!

[GWS]

I think you have the printing down pretty good!

Ha! Just when I think I got the bull by the horns, I find out there's a lot more bull than I thought! Case in point: The last incarnation of this part looked perfect while printing, then it finished, I took it off the bed, and the inside looked like spaghetti. Hard spaghetti. Took hours to clean it out and the result was.....well....ugly! The inside of the twist joint showed open filler, not the nice smooth I got printing it topside like TylerR's angled down spout.

IOW's an unsupported ledge inside, even 4mm wide is a no no. So I redesigned it to print upside down with another web support. One to counter the weight in use....the other to counter lack of support.

And now I have to use separate glue-in threads for the sensor, because they won't print worth a darn horizontally without support.

Bottom line: It's a lot easier to print tried and true prints perfected already by TylerR and others than to design your own. But I'm learning....a slow process above 70! ;)

[TylerR]

Ha! Just when I think I got the bull by the horns, I find out there's a lot more bull than I thought! Case in point: The last incarnation of this part looked perfect while printing, then it finished, I took it off the bed, and the inside looked like spaghetti. Hard spaghetti. Took hours to clean it out and the result was.....well....ugly! The inside of the twist joint showed open filler, not the nice smooth I got printing it topside like TylerR's angled down spout.

IOW's an unsupported ledge inside, even 4mm wide is a no no. So I redesigned it to print upside down with another web support. One to counter the weight in use....the other to counter lack of support.

And now I have to use separate glue-in threads for the sensor, because they won't print worth a darn horizontally without support.

Bottom line: It's a lot easier to print tried and true prints perfected already by TylerR and others than to design your own. But I'm learning....a slow process above 70! ;)

You hit the nail on the head. Designing every part to not require supports is always a factor. And as I have said, I hate supports. But sometimes they can't be avoided.

I like your idea of the threaded section being a seperate part. It may be possible to make the tolerance tight enough to not even require glue.

[TylerR]

Lablover. I just uploaded the final copy of the offset spring adapter. If you are using my drop hole adapter connected to the body with the pre-drilled holes, It should just line up. Otherwise you would want to reposition the drop hole adapter to get it lined up. It is compatible with my small pistol bullet plate and I have tested it with 9mm.

272374

[lablover]

Lablover. I just uploaded the final copy of the offset spring adapter. If you are using my drop hole adapter connected to the body with the pre-drilled holes, It should just line up. Otherwise you would want to reposition the drop hole adapter to get it lined up. It is compatible with my small pistol bullet plate and I have tested it with 9mm.

272374

Outstanding! I’ll give it a try in a bit. Thanks Tyler

[GWS]

You hit the nail on the head. Designing every part to not require supports is always a factor. And as I have said, I hate supports. But sometimes they can't be avoided.

I like your idea of the threaded section being a seperate part. It may be possible to make the tolerance tight enough to not even require glue.

You could do the same thing with your offset in a regular outlet.....just stuff that center piece into the big one!;) and glue it.....or not depending on whether you use it for other bullets that don't want or need the offset. (running and ducking)

[lablover]

Outstanding! I’ll give it a try in a bit. Thanks Tyler

Print done and tested. First round got stuck trying to go down. Took it out and did a little sanding as for some reason it was a tad too long. Started getting some success 95% of the time now. I think because I had to sand the length down a tiny bit I also now shortened the bevel on the one side. I’m going to do some more sanding and see what happens. So far this has been the most reliable option and I’m very excited.

Tyler, if you find you need to adjust it could you shorten the length of the part that goes into the bowl 1/2 mm . Right now for some reason it sits a little proud of the bottom of the bowl. I also think a very slight bevel to the offset hole at the top may or may not help. I’m going to sand a little radius there and see what happens. I’m so damn geeked right now

[TylerR]

Print done and tested. First round got stuck trying to go down. Took it out and did a little sanding as for some reason it was a tad too long. Started getting some success 95% of the time now. I think because I had to sand the length down a tiny bit I also now shortened the bevel on the one side. I’m going to do some more sanding and see what happens. So far this has been the most reliable option and I’m very excited.

Tyler, if you find you need to adjust it could you shorten the length of the part that goes into the bowl 1/2 mm . Right now for some reason it sits a little proud of the bottom of the bowl. I also think a very slight bevel to the offset hole at the top may or may not help. I’m going to sand a little radius there and see what happens. I’m so damn geeked right now

Excellent! I just shortened it by .75mm, and re-posted. I can add a bevel to the inside radius but have found with the regular drop hole it does not tend to fix problems. Let me know what else you try that helps it be more reliable.

[lablover]

Excellent! I just shortened it by .75mm, and re-posted. I can add a bevel to the inside radius but have found with the regular drop hole it does not tend to fix problems. Let me know what else you try that helps it be more reliable.

Awesome, and I’ll defer to you on the bevel. I may not get it printed until tomorrow but will report back then. Appreciate you help.
Joe

[GWS]

You hit the nail on the head. Designing every part to not require supports is always a factor. And as I have said, I hate supports. But sometimes they can't be avoided.

I like your idea of the threaded section being a seperate part. It may be possible to make the tolerance tight enough to not even require glue.

You are absolutely right! I didn't need glue!

https://youtu.be/4f96nFTBPWw

https://i.postimg.cc/Z5nDcx3S/IMG-3697.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/RhGX1WZh/IMG-3707.jpg
I did have to use a Dremel sanding cylinder on the inside of where the thread insert goes...you can see that the hole didn't close at the top without artifact hanging. Also I used acetone to smooth the inside up. Two pictures Below you will notice that my first design is dull.....that's what acetone does to the pretty green finish....but you can polish it back up.
h
Also I had elephant's feed at the bottom to sand off.....easy enough....and once done the fit was good.

https://i.postimg.cc/JnNTn6wb/IMG-3709.jpg
Below is the proximity sensor downtube progression from right to left.....I sure like the compact model better. I have one little tweak to do to the .223 offset bullet tube and I can use this design for both the case feeder and bullet feeder. Happy, finally!
https://i.postimg.cc/MKKs6m9Q/IMG-3710.jpg
Below: I've got two things left to do....make a tube transition to the clear tube on RCBS's tube feeder, and make a slot instead of a hole so I can slide the collator forward 3/4" to mate with the tube.
https://i.postimg.cc/26RcCptk/IMG-3713.jpg

[o416]

So I printed a few drop tubes and they printed great. When I try to fit the LED sensor knobs, they don't friction fit and are very loose. I printed everything at 0.12mm layer height.

Any ideas?

Thx!

[GWS]

If it was mine I'd coat the sensors with a light coat of vasoline so nothing sticks to them, then coat the inside of the holes with 5 minute epoxy, push them into place and let them dry. When the epoxy is dry, twist and remove.....they should come out but fit tight.

[RedlegEd]

You are absolutely right! I didn't need glue!
Below is the proximity sensor downtube progression from right to left.....I sure like the compact model better.
272430I have one little tweak to do to the .223 offset bullet tube and I can use this design for both the case feeder and bullet feeder. Happy, finally!
Below: I've got two things left to do....make a tube transition to the clear tube on RCBS's tube feeder, and make a slot instead of a hole so I can slide the collator forward 3/4" to mate with the tube.

Hey GWS,
Beautiful! Outstanding design and the prints look great. That green is still the cat's meow.
Ed

[GWS]

Thanks Ed! See how easy it would be to make a thread insert for the smaller diameter sensor?

I'll post the files in TylerR's cloud today.

[TylerR]

Outstanding job GWS! That looks like a very fine part. I would be happy to add it to the downloads, as it really does offer people another great solution.

As far as connecting it to APP tubes, I do have two parts in the current APP folder for adapting to the #2, and #3-4 tubes you could take a look at.

[TylerR]

So I printed a few drop tubes and they printed great. When I try to fit the LED sensor knobs, they don't friction fit and are very loose. I printed everything at 0.12mm layer height.

Any ideas?

Thx!

I am looking at that now. I have made two minor adjustments and printing them at .12 to see how the tolerance feels. I will post whichever one fits better. My goal is to make it fairly tight at first, because it will loosen up over time.

[TylerR]

Just posted a slightly modified version of the sensor knob. Please give it a go and let me know.

[o416]

Just posted a slightly modified version of the sensor knob. Please give it a go and let me know.

That fits much much better Tyler. Some are very snug and others are a little loose still but nothing like before. What did you change? Is there a way to make it a little more snug?

THANK YOU!!!

[TylerR]

That fits much much better Tyler. Some are very snug and others are a little loose still but nothing like before. What did you change? Is there a way to make it a little more snug?

THANK YOU!!!

No worries. I increased the length slightly so the locking lugs are tighter. I just bumped it up another .2mm and posted. I don't think I want to go much over that.

[lablover]

Oh Tyler.......guess what? Successful loading session with the last spring adapter you made. I just loaded 500 rounds of .32 acp and it was a total success! Not one jammed bullet. I had several that didn’t flip and went in upside down but I think that’s because their might be a small tolerance variation in the nose of these bullets. I think I’ll use the very first flipper plate you made that’s made to move in and out. I ended up using the #3 and it works pretty good but let’s a few by without flipping. #2 and #4 do not work for me.

Have to say I’m pretty excited right now and could not have pulled this off without you guys!

GWS! Those prints are epic! I have to break down and buy some of that filament. I’ll have to scroll back as I remember you listed what it was.

I may print an entire new feeder for just .32. This is one picky caliber for sure and as I now have a spare motor I I ordered fro Amazon and Tyler made a base for it why not right......hahahaha
Tyler, you might want to include that offset spring adapter in the main files download. I’m sure I won’t be the only one who finds it useful

[TylerR]

Oh Tyler.......guess what? Successful loading session with the last spring adapter you made. I just loaded 500 rounds of .32 acp and it was a total success! Not one jammed bullet. I had several that didn’t flip and went in upside down but I think that’s because their might be a small tolerance variation in the nose of these bullets. I think I’ll use the very first flipper plate you made that’s made to move in and out. I ended up using the #3 and it works pretty good but let’s a few by without flipping. #2 and #4 do not work for me.

Have to say I’m pretty excited right now and could not have pulled this off without you guys!

GWS! Those prints are epic! I have to break down and buy some of that filament. I’ll have to scroll back as I remember you listed what it was.

I may print an entire new feeder for just .32. This is one picky caliber for sure and as I now have a spare motor I I ordered fro Amazon and Tyler made a base for it why not right......hahahaha
Tyler, you might want to include that offset spring adapter in the main files download. I’m sure I won’t be the only one who finds it useful

Awesome to hear! As far as the flipper plates go, you could try running the #3 plate and run the feeder at a less steep angle, or run the #4 but pull it out slightly.

I am definitely including the offset small spring adapter. That is why I made it compatible with the small bullet collator plate. It should work for 9mm on down.

[o416]

Hey Tyler!

So I thought I was done this project and another problem has come up :(

I just got the hex couplers from AliExpress and the set screw hole lines up with the flat side of the hexagon. The ones you made line up with the vertices of the hexagon.

In other words, the hexagon head fits perfectly but the set screw doesn't. I guess the hole locations that are drilled vary from manufacturers.

Anybody else have this issue?

[TylerR]

Hey Tyler!

So I thought I was done this project and another problem has come up :(

I just got the hex couplers from AliExpress and the set screw hole lines up with the flat side of the hexagon. The ones you made line up with the vertices of the hexagon.

In other words, the hexagon head fits perfectly but the set screw doesn't. I guess the hole locations that are drilled vary from manufacturers.

Anybody else have this issue?

Haha. I'm sure it's probably not funny for you, but all these variations make me laugh. I just added a new param to the collator generator. Set it to true and generate the plate. I don't see myself regenerating all of them for the download. I am about to drop a new release tonight with a ton of APP stuff, so the new generator will be in there. Or just dremel it off. lol

setScrewOnFlat = false; // Set screw on corner or flat

Or honestly PM me your mailing address and I'll send a few of the ones I bought from Amazon. These here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QCTC93S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking at mine again they are really not centered on the corner or the flat, so these things are probably all over the map.

[o416]

Haha. I'm sure it's probably not funny for you, but all these variations make me laugh. I just added a new param to the collator generator. Set it to true and generate the plate. I don't see myself regenerating all of them for the download. I am about to drop a new release tonight with a ton of APP stuff, so the new generator will be in there. Or just dremel it off. lol

setScrewOnFlat = false; // Set screw on corner or flat

Or honestly PM me your mailing address and I'll send a few of the ones I bought from Amazon. These here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QCTC93S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking at mine again they are really not centered on the corner or the flat, so these things are probably all over the map.

I am glad you got a chuckle out of my misfortune lol It's the least I can do given everything you have done for all of us.

I ended up using a Dremel but I will just used your new cad generator and print a new one :)

I will put up a video soon :)

Thx again man!

[TylerR]

I am glad you got a chuckle out of my misfortune lol It's the least I can do given everything you have done for all of us.

I ended up using a Dremel but I will just used your new cad generator and print a new one :)

I will put up a video soon :)

Thx again man!

Cheers! :drinks:

This may sound silly, but I sit at a desk writing code all day, and have been for 25 years. I am so weary of it I can't even begin to explain. But kind of like GWS, doing the 3d cad and printing is one thing that still seems to hold my interest. So I am just glad everyone else can benefit from it.

And with that said, this new APP stuff I got going on is pretty cool.

[o416]

Cheers! :drinks:

This may sound silly, but I sit at a desk writing code all day, and have been for 25 years. I am so weary of it I can't even begin to explain. But kind of like GWS, doing the 3d cad and printing is one thing that still seems to hold my interest. So I am just glad everyone else can benefit from it.

And with that said, this new APP stuff I got going on is pretty cool.

I can't wait to see it :)

You took the Ammo Mike design and perfected it. This is better than the actual Mr. Bullet Feeder in my opinion.

I am having two issues though:
1. Some of the 9mm bullets like to stay nose down in the collator and don't drop onto the slide plate to be rotated. It happens so randomly that I can't figure out why.
2. Some of the bullets are jamming into the ramp and they have left a dimple in the ramp lol No idea why that's happening either.

Almost there though.

[TylerR]

I can't wait to see it :)

You took the Ammo Mike design and perfected it. This is better than the actual Mr. Bullet Feeder in my opinion.

I am having two issues though:
1. Some of the 9mm bullets like to stay nose down in the collator and don't drop onto the slide plate to be rotated. It happens so randomly that I can't figure out why.
2. Some of the bullets are jamming into the ramp and they have left a dimple in the ramp lol No idea why that's happening either.

Almost there though.

1. Can be fixed two ways. Less angle on the feeder. The more angle on the feeder the less chance a bullet is going to drop off the ridge. The second way would be to move up a plate. So if you are using my stock #5 pistol collator plate with the #5 slide plate, move up to the #6 slide plate.

2. I am really not sure on that one. Would have to see it in action. Only thing I can think of again involves really short bullet not making enough contact when they hit the ramp.

[djinnpb]

So for 45ACP cases and having mostly all the DAA large and small, it was mentioned getting the large chute adapter with the 4' spring.. if that one is 13.5mm ID, it looks like mcMaster-carr has one that would work and is cheaper. Only worry is will the adapters fit ok. Considering this https://www.mcmaster.com/9664K59/ makes the ID 13.5mm (0.531") looks like it would. Sanity?

[TylerR]

So for 45ACP cases and having mostly all the DAA large and small, it was mentioned getting the large chute adapter with the 4' spring.. if that one is 13.5mm ID, it looks like mcMaster-carr has one that would work and is cheaper. Only worry is will the adapters fit ok. Considering this https://www.mcmaster.com/9664K59/ makes the ID 13.5mm (0.531") looks like it would. Sanity?

I just measured and it's close, but not quite the same. The wire size is thicker. .047 vs .038 for the DAA spring. OD is .675 vs .620. So its possible it could work but most likely the threads would have to be changed to accept the wider OD.

OK just looked at threads in 3d cad and they are .667, so would definitely need to be redone to fit.

[o416]

No worries. I increased the length slightly so the locking lugs are tighter. I just bumped it up another .2mm and posted. I don't think I want to go much over that.

They work great :) A little too tight now but I prefer that haha

Thx Tyler!!!!

[TylerR]

They work great :) A little too tight now but I prefer that haha

Thx Tyler!!!!

OK, I am going to back it off .1mm :)

[djinnpb]

I just measured and it's close, but not quite the same. The wire size is thicker. .047 vs .038 for the DAA spring. OD is .675 vs .620. So its possible it could work but most likely the threads would have to be changed to accept the wider OD.

OK just looked at threads in 3d cad and they are .667, so would definitely need to be redone to fit.

That's what I was afraid of. I'll order the DAA output chute and spring. Wish their springs were standard. So hard to find the exact size. I tried for the small and large initially. Could get close but never exact. So for brass or bullets, you don't really even use the large anymore just the small and extra large?

[TylerR]

That's what I was afraid of. I'll order the DAA output chute and spring. Wish their springs were standard. So hard to find the exact size. I tried for the small and large initially. Could get close but never exact. So for brass or bullets, you don't really even use the large anymore just the small and extra large?

Yes, exactly. I also want to throw out there that Andar created all of the adapters for the pipe bender springs. But I have no personal experience with them, so he would have to speak to them.

[o416]

Tyler, the #5 collator plate is labelled 5 because it uses the #5 slide plate? Just wondering what the convention is :)

[TylerR]

Tyler, the #5 collator plate is labelled 5 because it uses the #5 slide plate? Just wondering what the convention is :)

Yeah that's the concept. I just wanted a way to match up my stock collator plates with a slide plate that would work for most situations. But that being said, that is why all the other slide plates are there. They are just separated by 1mm of ridge distance, and then match up with the ramp. So if #5 doesn't work, try #6 or #4, or adjusting feeder angle. And of course all the slides have the ability to add a set screw to set your own custom distance. A lot of this is just trying things and seeing what works and what doesn't. But there is a part for just about any scenario at this point.

[o416]

Yeah that's the concept. I just wanted a way to match up my stock collator plates with a slide plate that would work for most situations. But that being said, that is why all the other slide plates are there. They are just separated by 1mm of ridge distance, and then match up with the ramp. So if #5 doesn't work, try #6 or #4, or adjusting feeder angle. And of course all the slides have the ability to add a set screw to set your own custom distance. A lot of this is just trying things and seeing what works and what doesn't. But there is a part for just about any scenario at this point.

You rock dude! SO excited to see what you have for the APP :D

[Andar]

Yes, exactly. I also want to throw out there that Andar created all of the adapters for the pipe bender springs. But I have no personal experience with them, so he would have to speak to them.

I haven't fully mounted my setup yet (Still trying to decide how to get both feeders running with minimal extra purchases) but the bullets and cases I've tried run through them great. The downsides is that the springs are much tighter than what the DAA ones are, so if your setup is very tall or far away, you will probably need to get another set to use as an extension. I can whip up a simple extension piece if anyone is interested, or it would be simple to do yourself using the threads on the compatibility chart I provided. Not sure how much interest there is for these ones unless you're trying to be ultra cheap like me.

Mounting one as a case feeder to the Dillon post works well. It's just the right length to reach. I'll eventually make a little fitting that goes into the bottom of the drop tube and attaches to the press where the "casefeed adapter" is. I'll have to see how well it works with the bullet feeding die.

[GWS]

Outstanding job GWS! That looks like a very fine part. I would be happy to add it to the downloads, as it really does offer people another great solution.

As far as connecting it to APP tubes, I do have two parts in the current APP folder for adapting to the #2, and #3-4 tubes you could take a look at.

I looked at the two parts.....hard to tell the i.s. diameters of them from just the .stl files, but probably too simple for the RCBS contraption.

What I would like to do is make adapters with twist-ons......I don't know.....somebody here got me started on twist-ons.....wonder who that was?;)

The APP will be after this first one for the Pro Chucker case feeder....and should be way simpler....

The RCBS case feeder has two tubes: one actually slides (telescopes) into the other when smaller calibers are used.

The big one is nominally:
5/8" o.d. 1/16" wall thickness....so 1/2" i.d. Metric 15.875mm o.d. 1.5875 wall thickness so 12.7mm i.d.

The small one is nominally:
1/2"o.d. 1/16" wall thickness....so 3/8" i.d. Metric 12.7mm o.d. 1.5875 wall thickness so 9.525mm i.d.

The small one telescopes into the big one, so obviously, nominally is not exactly. What a pain....a few thousandths spread and hard to measure with calipers.

Thinking that if I make one for the big tube I'd do the same thing....put a beveled sleeve inside when the small tube was telescoped in as designed. A royal pain, but necessary if I want to use the existing case feeder on the Pro Chucker 7.

The clear tubing has special cutouts for the feed mechanism that feeds a case at a time to the press's shuttle at each pull of the press handle.

[TylerR]

I looked at the two parts.....hard to tell the i.s. diameters of them from just the .stl files, but probably too simple for the RCBS contraption.

What I would like to do is make adapters with twist-ons......I don't know.....somebody here got me started on twist-ons.....wonder who that was?;)

The APP will be after this first one for the Pro Chucker case feeder....and should be way simpler....

The RCBS case feeder has two tubes: one actually slides (telescopes) into the other when smaller calibers are used.

The big one is nominally:
5/8" o.d. 1/16" wall thickness....so 1/2" i.d. Metric 15.875mm o.d. 1.5875 wall thickness so 12.7mm i.d.

The small one is nominally:
1/2"o.d. 1/16" wall thickness....so 3/8" i.d. Metric 12.7mm o.d. 1.5875 wall thickness so 9.525mm i.d.

The small one telescopes into the big one, so obviously, nominally is not exactly. What a pain....a few thousandths spread and hard to measure with calipers.

Thinking that if I make one for the big tube I'd do the same thing....put a beveled sleeve inside when the small tube was telescoped in as designed. A royal pain, but necessary if I want to use the existing case feeder on the Pro Chucker 7.

The clear tubing has special cutouts for the feed mechanism that feeds a case at a time to the press's shuttle at each pull of the press handle.

If it helps, here are the internal diameters of the adapters I designed for using the 4 clear tubes that come with the APP. #1 (8.5mm), #2 (11.4mm), #3-#4(14.56mm).

[TylerR]

GWS I am going to post the new release today. When you get a chance if the proximity downtube is complete just post it to the shared documents folder. I will add it to the main download and make sure the filenames reflect that they are your design if that works for you.

[lablover]

Oh boy...more things to play with......hahahahaha. Wooohooooo

[djinnpb]

TylerR, was wondering if the current pistol plates (namely Pistol_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Small_#5) has the ramps as they work better for bullet? I know the long rifle bullet #11 has it and seems to work great. I did an older version of the large pistol bullet that had no ramps. The current generator has it listed only under the long rifle bullet. So wanted to double check before kicking a print off. Also primarily if the ramps are indeed the golden ticket I'll likely reprint my rampless large pistol for OCD sake :P

edit: slides not ramps. Apologies for mixing them up.

[TylerR]

TylerR, was wondering if the current pistol plates (namely Pistol_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Small_#5) has the ramps as they work better for bullet? I know the long rifle bullet #11 has it and seems to work great. I did an older version of the large pistol bullet that had no ramps. The current generator has it listed only under the long rifle bullet. So wanted to double check before kicking a print off. Also primarily if the ramps are indeed the golden ticket I'll likely reprint my rampless large pistol for OCD sake :P

I did not make an attempt at using ramps for anything but the long rifle bullets. Let me take a quick look at it and see how involved it would be.

[djinnpb]

I did not make an attempt at using ramps for anything but the long rifle bullets. Let me take a quick look at it and see how involved it would be.

ohh disregard s/ramps/slides. I somehow got them mixed up in there on after rendering.. slides is set to false for bullet settings but current ones have slides. That's what I meant. Need more espresso apparently

[TylerR]

ohh disregard s/ramps/slides. I somehow got them mixed up in there on after rendering.. slides is set to false for bullet settings but current ones have slides. That's what I meant. Need more espresso apparently

Oh yes slides can be added to anything. It does get confusing.

[TylerR]

Just posted v1.2.0.

Lots of little changes here and there I won't bother listing.

Main changes:

- Addition of APP quick caliber change parts. Top parts to handle all calibers (bullets/brass). Bottom inserts for .45, 9mm and .308 bullets for now.
- Changes to bullet slides and addition of .308 / .300BO.
- Andar addition of drop tubes for pressure switches.

APP press details. There is a main bracket that mounts to the press. This bracket can then accept inserts for any bullet / brass combination. Inserts directly interface with APP tubes, or there are offset adapters that interface between the insert and the clear tube. These offsets allow there to be more clearance for the handle, which is a must for my modded roller handle. Next there is a APP clear tube to drop tube adapter. There are three versions that cover the 4 different sized APP tubes. These adapters interface directly with the standard drop tube. Also, to make it more interesting, the clear APP tube can be eliminated completely, and just connect the drop tube to the offset adapter.

For the bullet slides, it is best to use a raft when printing them because I added the spring connector and it can be tricky to print.
The only part in the entire download that requires supports is the APP_Brass_Slide_Base. Every other part is designed to be printed without them.

I shot a quick video of me assembling it for .300BO boolits. I then do a quick change over to .45 acp.


https://youtu.be/9QGu_AE01Zc

[Rage 01]

Hey Tyler!

So I thought I was done this project and another problem has come up :(

I just got the hex couplers from AliExpress and the set screw hole lines up with the flat side of the hexagon. The ones you made line up with the vertices of the hexagon.

In other words, the hexagon head fits perfectly but the set screw doesn't. I guess the hole locations that are drilled vary from manufacturers.

Anybody else have this issue?

I had that issue, all I did was grind/file the bottom of the set screw down so it was flush with the out side of the hex. Now it does not matter. Oh and I took one of the set screw out. You really only need the one on the flat part of the shaft.

[o416]

Just posted v1.2.0.

Lots of little changes here and there I won't bother listing.

Main changes:

- Addition of APP quick caliber change parts. Top parts to handle all calibers (bullets/brass). Bottom inserts for .45, 9mm and .308 bullets for now.
- Changes to bullet slides and addition of .308 / .300BO.
- Andar addition of drop tubes for pressure switches.

APP press details. There is a main bracket that mounts to the press. This bracket can then accept inserts for any bullet / brass combination. Inserts directly interface with APP tubes, or there are offset adapters that interface between the insert and the clear tube. These offsets allow there to be more clearance for the handle, which is a must for my modded roller handle. Next there is a APP clear tube to drop tube adapter. There are three versions that cover the 4 different sized APP tubes. These adapters interface directly with the standard drop tube. Also, to make it more interesting, the clear APP tube can be eliminated completely, and just connect the drop tube to the offset adapter.

For the bullet slides, it is best to use a raft when printing them because I added the spring connector and it can be tricky to print.
The only part in the entire download that requires supports is the APP_Brass_Slide_Base. Every other part is designed to be printed without them.

I shot a quick video of me assembling it for .300BO boolits. I then do a quick change over to .45 acp.


https://youtu.be/9QGu_AE01Zc

This looks amazing Tyler! Thank you so much for doing this.

Did you add the updated LED sensor knob file too? I know we went through a few mods lol The one I printed last fit but became a little too tight and you said you would back it off by 0.1mm I think.

Look forward to making this stuff :)

[o416]

BTW, did you make the handle mod? Or buy the one Lee sells?

[o416]

BTW, did you make the handle mod? Or buy the one Lee sells?

Never mind, found your older post :)

[TylerR]

Did you add the updated LED sensor knob file too? I know we went through a few mods lol The one I printed last fit but became a little too tight and you said you would back it off by 0.1mm I think.


Yes that is in there. They definitely loosen up over time the more you use them.

[GWS]

Just posted v1.2.0.

Lots of little changes here and there I won't bother listing.

Main changes:

- Addition of APP quick caliber change parts. Top parts to handle all calibers (bullets/brass). Bottom inserts for .45, 9mm and .308 bullets for now.
- Changes to bullet slides and addition of .308 / .300BO.
- Andar addition of drop tubes for pressure switches.

APP press details. There is a main bracket that mounts to the press. This bracket can then accept inserts for any bullet / brass combination. Inserts directly interface with APP tubes, or there are offset adapters that interface between the insert and the clear tube. These offsets allow there to be more clearance for the handle, which is a must for my modded roller handle. Next there is a APP clear tube to drop tube adapter. There are three versions that cover the 4 different sized APP tubes. These adapters interface directly with the standard drop tube. Also, to make it more interesting, the clear APP tube can be eliminated completely, and just connect the drop tube to the offset adapter.

For the bullet slides, it is best to use a raft when printing them because I added the spring connector and it can be tricky to print.
The only part in the entire download that requires supports is the APP_Brass_Slide_Base. Every other part is designed to be printed without them.

I shot a quick video of me assembling it for .300BO boolits. I then do a quick change over to .45 acp.

I'm impressed! I'll be glad to get my rifle collator up and running so I can print some APP stuff....but I'm way slower....as much as I'm having fun, I'm still a beginner, so everything takes a lot of time.

I will get you all the files for my project yet, but I want to perfect them first. Still tweaking to make things work smoother...especially the twist connectors. I finally realized that yours and Mikes are fairly incompatible, so I'm redesigning to fit your system. Otherwise I'm just adding confusion.

Also I had 5 non-manifold edge errors in my .stl file for the down tube. My slicer fixes them in slicing but doesn't fix .stl file itself. Bad to share such a file, so I needed to find and fix them. So I went through the .DWG file with a fine tooth comb and found and deleted them.....as they turned out to be artifacts left over from changes.....as I said, beginner stuff. But the file is clean now, and I will print the downtube again today along with the .223 bullet insert, revised to use the lower twist connector. If this works, then I will post them.

And yes I will identify them as inferior GWS files! Don't want anyone else to take the blame!;-)

I need to get back to help document this momentous thread, and I will, when I get this working. It'd help if you slow down a little!!!! Would be nice to be young again, with limitless energy.

[GWS]

If it helps, here are the internal diameters of the adapters I designed for using the 4 clear tubes that come with the APP. #1 (8.5mm), #2 (11.4mm), #3-#4(14.56mm).

Yes! that does help. Thanks! I wish I had more younger me's around who can retain info better....off to make a Gcode for today's print.

[TylerR]

I'm impressed! I'll be glad to get my rifle collator up and running so I can print some APP stuff....but I'm way slower....as much as I'm having fun, I'm still a beginner, so everything takes a lot of time.

I will get you all the files for my project yet, but I want to perfect them first. Still tweaking to make things work smoother...especially the twist connectors. I finally realized that yours and Mikes are fairly incompatible, so I'm redesigning to fit your system. Otherwise I'm just adding confusion.

Also I had 5 non-manifold edge errors in my .stl file for the down tube. My slicer fixes them in slicing but doesn't fix .stl file itself. Bad to share such a file, so I needed to find and fix them. So I went through the .DWG file with a fine tooth comb and found and deleted them.....as they turned out to be artifacts left over from changes.....as I said, beginner stuff. But the file is clean now, and I will print the downtube again today along with the .223 bullet insert, revised to use the lower twist connector. It this works, then I will post them.

And yes I will identify them as inferior GWS files! Don't want anyone else to take the blame!;-)

I need to get back to help document this momentous thread, and I will, when I get this working. It'd help if you slow down a little!!!! Would be nice to be young again, with limitless energy.

Thanks GWS! I hear you about getting it perfect before sharing. That's why every time I post a release I end up pulling and replacing it 5 minutes later because I think of one last thing that should have been done. LOL

I appreciate your efforts with the proximity sensor drop tube, and would love to add the files to the project when they are ready. I promise I will only give attribution to them if you want, as I am always willing to take the blame :)
I also appreciate Andar's contributions to fill in some of the gaps.

I am done for awhile with any major aspects of the project. I will add more inserts for the APP press as people request them, or if I need something myself, but right at the moment I don't see any other major items to be tackled. But I guess you never know........ Although I do need to get to some actual 9mm reloading.

[o416]

I feel like I am mooching here and would like to contribute in some way.

Tyler, did someone take the task of making a "manual" for this build? If not, I think I am OCD enough to volunteer for it lol

[TylerR]

I feel like I am mooching here and would like to contribute in some way.

Tyler, did someone take the task of making a "manual" for this build? If not, I think I am OCD enough to volunteer for it lol

Haha not at all!

So GWS has offered to work on it, but I am sure he wouldn't argue if you wanted to help or take point. It is a fairly big project but would be so awesome if we had it.

[o416]

Haha not at all!

So GWS has offered to work on it, but I am sure he wouldn't argue if you wanted to help or take point. It is a fairly big project but would be so awesome if we had it.

I will get started on it now. I have the organization skills to make this happen lol

[TylerR]

I will get started on it now. I have the organization skills to make this happen lol

Nice! That sounds awesome. Anything you need let us know. A big part of it is just boiling down all the info in the thread in to some kind of organized format without all the noise.

I should probably go back through my own posts and at least grab my release notes, as they should really be a running list included in the download. you would think as a programmer I would know this.

[o416]

I will make a manual with a table of contents and share it with you some time this week :)

[TylerR]

I will make a manual with a table of contents and share it with you some time this week :)

That sounds really great. Can't wait.

Just to clarify something, If anyone needs a bullet feeder die for a different caliber, or like I said, new inserts for the APP press, just let me know. Now that I have the 3d CAD base files and concepts all worked out its not a huge lift to add new calibers. You might just have to give me specs for what you are looking for.

[GWS]

Finally finished the clear tubing connector for the case feeder that will connect directly below the Proximity switch. Since the tubing for the RCBS case feeder telescopes, the small diameter into the large diameter (so one setup works for .223 and .308), I needed to design two connectors. I think this "x-ray" picture describes what I needed to design , pretty well.....will print them tomorrow.

https://i.postimg.cc/ydYCHnTx/RCBS-Clear-Tube-Connection.png



Oh BTW, I unwrapped my blue Satin similar to the green Satin and am printing what I hope is the final rendition of the Proximity Switch housing tonight, in blue. Kind of like the blue too, but it's definitely not Dillon baby blue! Tomorrow it's back to green for the last parts....it is for my RCBS Pro Chucker green machine, after all....;)

[o416]

Thanks GWS! I hear you about getting it perfect before sharing. That's why every time I post a release I end up pulling and replacing it 5 minutes later because I think of one last thing that should have been done. LOL

I appreciate your efforts with the proximity sensor drop tube, and would love to add the files to the project when they are ready. I promise I will only give attribution to them if you want, as I am always willing to take the blame :)
I also appreciate Andar's contributions to fill in some of the gaps.

I am done for awhile with any major aspects of the project. I will add more inserts for the APP press as people request them, or if I need something myself, but right at the moment I don't see any other major items to be tackled. But I guess you never know........ Although I do need to get to some actual 9mm reloading.

Does the quick caliber change system for the APP only work for bullets are can you use it with brass too?

[TylerR]

Does the quick caliber change system for the APP only work for bullets are can you use it with brass too?

You might want to go back one page and read my release notes :)

[TylerR]

Hey all,

So I finally decided to sign up for the forum (been coming to this site for a long time, am also a member of the FB group) and have spent a lot of time on this thread.

I want to say thanks to Tyler and others for all of the work you’ve done with these projects. I already have several parts printed out and many of the electronics mocked up and seem to have everything working like it should.

I have some questions regarding some parts and the electronics.

I’m using a Dayton motor and the light sensor setup. I have everything hooked up for the most part and it seems to be working fine. I noticed there is a great harness for the light sensor with an plug in the photos folder, I was hoping I could have some more details how the harness is put together as well as some pictures and descriptions of the electronics box setup.

As far as the drop tube goes, I have the twist connector for the small spring and a spring from Amazon/stop shop. The piece is threaded, however, the threads are in the opposite direction of the way the spring is coiled. Is there a particular spring that has the coils in the same direction as the threads? Would it be possible to make a clockwise and counter clockwise set of spring adapters? Is there something I’m missing here?

The hardware for the mounting, particularly the drop tube adapter that screws into the base, is there a preferred screw that I need to use? I’m assuming the electronics box uses the same screws. Do I need to pre-drill the holes or is the hole in the base good enough? Is all the other hardware just something that fits in the provided holes?

I know you guys have done a lot and I appreciate all the work you’ve done and would appreciate any additional help or advice you can provide for this build.

Mike

Welcome aboard Mike. Best advice I can give is read through the thread because there is tons of great info, but I will take a stab at your questions.

- I believe someone just recently posted some pics and description of the wiring. Maybe 5-8 pages back?
- The spring adapters I designed are for the DAA springs and nothing else. Andar also recently posted adapters for tube bending springs which are in the download.
- I use very little sheet metal screws. I think they are #3 1/4" or something like that. They work very well. I had a huge bag of them I bought from Mcmaster a long time ago. No need to pre-drill the holes. All the designs have the hole pattern built in.

[lablover]

Finally finished the clear tubing connector for the case feeder that will connect directly below the Proximity switch. Since the tubing for the RCBS case feeder telescopes, the small diameter into the large diameter (so one setup works for .223 and .308), I needed to design two connectors. I think this "x-ray" picture describes what I needed to design , pretty well.....will print them tomorrow.

https://i.postimg.cc/ydYCHnTx/RCBS-Clear-Tube-Connection.png



Oh BTW, I unwrapped my blue Satin similar to the green Satin and am printing what I hope is the final rendition of the Proximity Switch housing tonight, in blue. Kind of like the blue too, but it's definitely not Dillon baby blue! Tomorrow it's back to green for the last parts....it is for my RCBS Pro Chucker green machine, after all....;)

I hate to ask because I know the answer is several pages back. Brand of that filament? I know I know..being lazy but at work on the phone. Lol. Love those adapters

[GWS]

I hate to ask because I know the answer is several pages back. Brand of that filament? I know I know..being lazy but at work on the phone. Lol. Love those adapters

http://www.zyltech.com/zyltech-filament/zyltech-specialty-filament/

It comes in blue, red and gold as well as the green.

https://i.postimg.cc/pLmD4w7r/IMG-3715.jpg

Not Dillon Blue, but it'll compliment Dillon Blue for Dillon Lovers I betcha .....


https://youtu.be/vQEMbC8erkg

It's a little loose on top.....that's Ammo Mike's collator and outlet....need to print a tighter TylerR outlet for it......but it works fine as is.

That's an improved .223 insert for the proximity switch housing.....made to keep those tiny bullets close to the sensor so the tiny bullets stop the collator reliably.

X-ray of that piece with the angled path for the .223 bullet (before I shortened it and added the twist lock) in the middle of the picture below: other two pieces are now obsolete.

https://i.postimg.cc/bvnKyLsd/223-downtube.png

[TylerR]

http://www.zyltech.com/zyltech-filament/zyltech-specialty-filament/

It comes in blue, red and gold as well as the green.

Not Dillon Blue, but it'll compliment it for Dillon Lovers .....

It's a little loose on top.....that's Ammo Mike's collator and outlet....need to print a tighter TylerR outlet for it......but it works fine as is.

That is some slick looking stuff.

Your video is marked private.

[lablover]

Thanks Buddy...can’t view video btw

[GWS]

You can set Youtube defaults, but that doesn't mean they always follow them.....please let me know if it works now. Sorry.

[lablover]

You can set Youtube defaults, but that doesn't mean they always follow them.....please let me know if it works now. Sorry.

Works now

[TylerR]

Works now

where the heck are the videos of your new APP quick change setup?? It's been a whole day. :D

[GWS]

where the heck are the videos of your new APP quick change setup?? It's been a whole day. :D

He's a whole day older......maybe he's going to eventually become as slow as me.....;)

Wish I could devote all my time to this stuff....but unfortunately I have to work some.....especially with my younger brother laid up for 6 weeks with broken feet....now I get to take up that slack.

One last problem with my print.....the twist connector nubs ......one actually fell off on this new blue one! I screwed up somewhere....wonder if I reduced the diameter of the shaft a hair and forgot the nubs? Only thing I can figure out! :roll: I'm not sure I'll ever get past beginner mode here.....I forget too stinking fast.

Addendum: TylerR, look at my .223 insert for a minute. See on the actual prints how the top only printed full high on one side? Then notice the funnel shape that's offset on the X-ray picture of it, how the offset tube makes it thinner on one side....the side that doesn't print all the way up. It still works fine....in fact since the top isn't recessed like I would do in the future, the taper I think might keep bullets from hanging.....which is a good accident.

Again in the future, the best design would be to recess that edge......

[TylerR]

He's a whole day older......maybe he's going to eventually become as slow as me.....;)

Wish I could devote all my time to this stuff....but unfortunately I have to work some.....especially with my younger brother laid up for 6 weeks with broken feet....now I get to take up that slack.

One last problem with my print.....the twist connector nubs ......one actually fell off on this new blue one! I screwed up somewhere....wonder if I reduced the diameter of the shaft a hair and forgot the nubs? Only thing I can figure out! :roll: I'm not sure I'll ever get past beginner mode here.....I forget too stinking fast.

Addendum: TylerR, look at my .223 insert for a minute. See on the actual prints how the top only printed full high on one side? Then notice the funnel shape that's offset on the X-ray picture of it, how the offset tube makes it thinner on one side....the side that doesn't print all the way up. It still works fine....in fact since the top isn't recessed like I would do in the future, the taper I think might keep bullets from hanging.....which is a good accident.

Again in the future, the best design would be to recess that edge......

I did notice that yes. Funny because I am using that as a "feature" on the new offset small spring adapter I made for lablover. The issue happens when in your 3d cad you create a wall that is basically thinner then the nozzle size. So if you printing with a .4mm nozzle, and there is a wall in the stl file that is less then .4mm, the slicer will turn that in to no wall, because it is thinner then the nozzle size can print.

[GWS]

Much better! Feature! not accident! ;)

Since you use programming to cad, you might know exactly what your featured nubs are. (speaking of the locking nubs that twist in the holes) So in the interest of sameness, so my parts fit your parts, what's the measurements of each nub, nipple, protrusion, or whatever you call it. Since I need to fix the falling nub problem on my print, I just as well make them the same as your parts......too bad we can't use steel reinforcing in them!:)

[o416]

You might want to go back one page and read my release notes :)

Sigh! I deserved that lol

I only watched the video haha

[lablover]

where the heck are the videos of your new APP quick change setup?? It's been a whole day. :D

Hahahaha. Have not even attempted it yet. I’ve been loading.32 and 45 for days. Need to send off the Dillon for a refurb. She’s getting old.
Hopefully this weekend.


Edit...hmmm, you may have not been talking to me...lmao

[TylerR]

Hahahaha. Have not even attempted it yet. I’ve been loading.32 and 45 for days. Need to send off the Dillon for a refurb. She’s getting old.
Hopefully this weekend.


Edit...hmmm, you may have not been talking to me...lmao

Oh no, I was talking to you. :)

Just joking around. That being said, can't wait to see some of you guys put the new stuff into action.

[lablover]

Oh no, I was talking to you. :)

Just joking around. That being said, can't wait to see some of you guys put the new stuff into action.

Hahahaha. I sounded like a little kid trying to get out of trouble. I have to get up to speed as I have the master caster showing up in a few months so I’ll need to be sizing bullets. I basically use it for depriming and bulge busting

[TylerR]

Hahahaha. I sounded like a little kid trying to get out of trouble. I have to get up to speed as I have the master caster showing up in a few months so I’ll need to be sizing bullets. I basically use it for depriming and bulge busting

I am going to work on brass inserts for .45, .40, and 9mm. Any requests for other calibers, now would be the time to let me know.

[TylerR]

I am going to work on brass inserts for .45, .40, and 9mm. Any requests for other calibers, now would be the time to let me know.

I have discovered two things right off the rip. The inserts for .45 and 9mm bullets could also be used for .45 and 9mm brass. The .45 insert I have currently needs to be shortened by about 3mm. So I assume the same will be true for .40. Also, I am creating a 14mm offset connector to handle the .45 brass.

I am curious for those using really short .45 and 9mm bullets (hollow points and such), what are the exact lengths. I am working mostly with RN, so they are fairly long.

I will also create brass inserts for .223 / .300BO and .308. Anything else let me know.

[bigmike111]

Welcome aboard Mike. Best advice I can give is read through the thread because there is tons of great info, but I will take a stab at your questions.

- I believe someone just recently posted some pics and description of the wiring. Maybe 5-8 pages back?
- The spring adapters I designed are for the DAA springs and nothing else. Andar also recently posted adapters for tube bending springs which are in the download.
- I use very little sheet metal screws. I think they are #3 1/4" or something like that. They work very well. I had a huge bag of them I bought from Mcmaster a long time ago. No need to pre-drill the holes. All the designs have the hole pattern built in.

Thanks, Tyler.

FYI, I took your small spring adapter and mirrored it in PrusaSlicer and used the Amazon spring and it threads in perfectly. Much cheaper option over the DAA Spring and you have plenty extra left over.

I read through the entire thread a while back, but I think I'll go through it again taking notes. Right now I'm waiting for a box of screws I ordered and a roll pin for the Grainger/Mcmaster motor shaft, from there ill get everything put together and start testing it out.

[TylerR]

Thanks, Tyler.

FYI, I took your small spring adapter and mirrored it in PrusaSlicer and used the Amazon spring and it threads in perfectly. Much cheaper option over the DAA Spring and you have plenty extra left over.

I read through the entire thread a while back, but I think I'll go through it again taking notes. Right now I'm waiting for a box of screws I ordered and a roll pin for the Grainger/Mcmaster motor shaft, from there ill get everything put together and start testing it out.

Excellent. Glad to hear that worked for you. Can you share a link to the spring in case anyone has interest?

We have a member working on a full blown user guide right now, so hopefully that will help people out in the future.

[o416]

Hey Tyler,

Do you think these spring tubes would work with your adapters?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.440f76a 8qwBSEk&algo_pvid=5da41d0e-50b6-45ce-8e87-2a1bcfe62494&algo_expid=5da41d0e-50b6-45ce-8e87-2a1bcfe62494-7&btsid=0b0a555e16072279604614941e39ce&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb 201603_

The specs are:
Wire diameter:1mm
Out diameter:6-15mm
Free Length:1000mm

Thx!

[TylerR]

Hey Tyler,

Do you think these spring tubes would work with your adapters?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.440f76a 8qwBSEk&algo_pvid=5da41d0e-50b6-45ce-8e87-2a1bcfe62494&algo_expid=5da41d0e-50b6-45ce-8e87-2a1bcfe62494-7&btsid=0b0a555e16072279604614941e39ce&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb 201603_

The specs are:
Wire diameter:1mm
Out diameter:6-15mm
Free Length:1000mm

Thx!

I think its very possible, especially the 10, 12, and 13mm ones. But without trying it its hard to know. I would be very willing to re-design new adapters around inexpensive and readily available springs, but there are just so many sources and variances it is hard to cover them all.

Edited: I believe these are the same ones RedLegEd posted awhile back. Just looking at them again and they are OD diameters listed. So I think the best matchups for the DAA springs would be the 15, 14, and 12mm. Although if I re-designed around those I would probably try the 15, 13, and 10m which in theory would be 13, 11, and 8mm ID. So now you went and done it and I am going to order some. They are not readily available, but they are cheap.

Edited again: Couldn't decide between 10 and 11mm dia for the middle spring so just got both. Its a whole $28 for all 4. I should get them sometime in the next 3 months. haha

[GWS]

Zyltec Satin Red composite PLA printing my RCBS Clear Tubing adapters for my Pro Chucker Case feeder to TylerR 3d Printed Collator.....well it's not green.....but it is Christmas time!;)

https://i.postimg.cc/k5SW0tJV/IMG-3717.jpg

I promised Ed the Red to try this out today.....:) (RedlegEd that is...)

[TylerR]

Zyltec Satin Red composite PLA printing my RCBS Clear Tubing adapters for my Pro Chucker Case feeder to TylerR 3d Printed Collator.....well it's not green.....but it is Christmas time!;)

I promised Ed the Red to try this out today.....:) (RedlegEd that is...)

Looking good. How are you liking that new print bed setup?

[GWS]

Like it? Love it! I owe you big time. Zero problems with prints coming loose or warping first layers.....Zero!

The print finished, so I had a little fun.......

https://i.postimg.cc/hP9LZmGf/IMG-3721.jpg

And the light color is so much better on my old eyes than that black Creality bed. I have a new one for sale.....

TylerR, do you ever use Autocad?

[bigmike111]

Excellent. Glad to hear that worked for you. Can you share a link to the spring in case anyone has interest?

We have a member working on a full blown user guide right now, so hopefully that will help people out in the future.

This is the one I bought and verified works in the small adapter. You have to mirror the STL file on the X/Y in order to reverse the threads to fit the spring.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YGRBME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_4fhZFbS1R50XS?_encodin g=UTF8&psc=1

I have this one saved for future reference, I’m not to where I’m going to need it yet which is why I haven’t bought it yet. I believe it is the correct spring for the large adapter. It’s 16’ so it’s a twice the size and cost of the 3/8 spring.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTV5UW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_JihZFb3Z1CSKQ?_encoding =UTF8&psc=1

It’s kind of funny when you go to the 1/2 inch line one of the reviews mentions Ammo Mike and see the section for “Customers who bought this item also bought” has motors, speed controllers, power buttons, small spring, power supply, LEDs, photocells, reloading items etc. ��

[TylerR]

Like it? Love it! I owe you big time. Zero problems with prints coming loose or warping first layers.....Zero!

The print finished, so I had a little fun.......

And the light color is so much better on my old eyes than that black Creality bed. I have a new one for sale.....

TylerR, do you ever use Autocad?

Ha. That's too funny GWS. I am glad the new bed is working out well. That was my experience with it as well.

I have not, and I am sure if I tried I would have no clue what I was doing. Ed is really the 3d cad guy.

[TylerR]

This is the one I bought and verified works in the small adapter. You have to mirror the STL file on the X/Y in order to reverse the threads to fit the spring.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YGRBME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_4fhZFbS1R50XS?_encodin g=UTF8&psc=1

I have this one saved for future reference, I’m not to where I’m going to need it yet which is why I haven’t bought it yet. I believe it is the correct spring for the large adapter. It’s 16’ so it’s a twice the size and cost of the 3/8 spring.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTV5UW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_JihZFb3Z1CSKQ?_encoding =UTF8&psc=1

It’s kind of funny when you go to the 1/2 inch line one of the reviews mentions Ammo Mike and see the section for “Customers who bought this item also bought” has motors, speed controllers, power buttons, small spring, power supply, LEDs, photocells, reloading items etc. ��

I did look at those springs at one point. Glad you found a work around for them. Great idea btw.
AM is a legend. :)

[GWS]

Yup! I woulda never thought of that.......

The only time I bought a 16' spring, I didn't pay enough attention to which one.........the one that came will be great for .17 caliber reloading........I didn't even know they made brake lines that small. I usually pay more attention to the details......nuts.....

[bigmike111]

Yup! I woulda never thought of that.......

The only time I bought a 16' spring, I didn't pay enough attention to which one.........the one that came will be great for .17 caliber reloading........I didn't even know they made brake lines that small. I usually pay more attention to the details......nuts.....

At first I ordered a 3/16 spring, it got lost in transit and never showed. I’m glad it got lost because I wasn’t really thinking and wanted a small spring and then I realized after it shipped that 3/16 is 0.1875“ and therefore wouldn’t work with .224 bullets. Lol

[TylerR]

Just uploaded v1.2.1

- Added .40 and .223 bullet slides
- Added .40 bullet/brass APP insert. Slight modification to .45 bullet insert to handle brass.
- Added .223 and .308 APP bullet inserts
- Added .223 and .308 APP brass inserts
- Added 14mm APP offset connector to handle .45 brass
- Added 15mm APP offset connector to handle .308 brass.

I have found that the 12mm offset connector works great for .223 brass.

[GWS]

At first I ordered a 3/16 spring, it got lost in transit and never showed. I’m glad it got lost because I wasn’t really thinking and wanted a small spring and then I realized after it shipped that 3/16 is 0.1875“ and therefore wouldn’t work with .224 bullets. Lol

That's EXACTLY what I did, but I caught it before it shipped and tried to cancel, and Amazon wouldn't....said it was too late....the jerks....wish mine did get lost.

But I found a work around at Ace Hardware.....two short springs just right, couple to thinwall clear plastic tubing......and I like it even better.

https://i.postimg.cc/cCjvMVRf/IMG-3633.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/Rhq3tMHM/IMG-3630.jpg

[GWS]

TylerR, do you ever use Autocad?

The reason I asked is that the "ear" problem isn't worked out....really confused by it. Would send you the .stl and the .dwg files now, but for that problem. If you had access to Autocad, you'd probably be able to fix the file......don't know why Autocad won't export .dwg to other formats except 2D dxf. You must have figured out how to print all your files with ears, sloped side down, but my files won't print that way without gobs of stringing inside. Guess I'll remove the fillets and add support under them (the least evil).

[TylerR]

The reason I asked is that the "ear" problem isn't worked out....really confused by it. Would send you the .stl and the .dwg files now, but for that problem. If you had access to Autocad, you'd probably be able to fix the file......don't know why Autocad won't export .dwg to other formats except 2D dxf. You must have figured out how to print all your files with ears, sloped side down, but my files won't print that way. Guess I'll remove the fillets and add support under them.

You should talk to Ed on the CAD help. Before you make any major changes to your part, because I really like the look of it, try increasing the radius of that bottom bevel of the "locking lug". I don't believe increasing that should adversely affect its function too much. Or if you really need to, make it flat again and print that with supports from the build plate up only, and that should support them.

[GWS]

"Locking Lug"!!!! I knew there was a term I couldn't remember! Thanks! "Ears"...."nubs".....sheesh.

[o416]

I think its very possible, especially the 10, 12, and 13mm ones. But without trying it its hard to know. I would be very willing to re-design new adapters around inexpensive and readily available springs, but there are just so many sources and variances it is hard to cover them all.

Edited: I believe these are the same ones RedLegEd posted awhile back. Just looking at them again and they are OD diameters listed. So I think the best matchups for the DAA springs would be the 15, 14, and 12mm. Although if I re-designed around those I would probably try the 15, 13, and 10m which in theory would be 13, 11, and 8mm ID. So now you went and done it and I am going to order some. They are not readily available, but they are cheap.

Edited again: Couldn't decide between 10 and 11mm dia for the middle spring so just got both. Its a whole $28 for all 4. I should get them sometime in the next 3 months. haha

Your math makes sense there Tyler. The wire diameter is 1mm so a 15mm OD would give you about 13mm ID which would be perfect for larger caliber brass like .45

Gonna order the 15mm as well :)

[o416]

Out of curiosity though, isn't the large spring good enough for just about any caliber of pistol? My current DAA large (https://www.doublealpha.biz/ca/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor) works fine with 9mm and .45 ACP, just sucks for .45 brass.

Is the small necessary for .223 bullets?

[TylerR]

Out of curiosity though, isn't the large spring good enough for just about any caliber of pistol? My current DAA large (https://www.doublealpha.biz/ca/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor) works fine with 9mm and .45 ACP, just sucks for .45 brass.

Is the small necessary for .223 bullets?

Those are great questions. I think the answer to the first one is yes, but when you get down to things like .32acp it may be better to have the middle spring. That is where the 10-11mm spring would make sense.
As far as .223, I have not even run any through the springs yet, but I figured having a third option at 8mm would really cover all bases. I just wish those exact springs were available in the US and not have to come from China.

The place it would make a difference is in a setup where the bullet is actually stopping in the spring, and not just passing through it, like GWS setip with his proximity sensor directly below the collator.

[TylerR]

Just tested .308 brass with new 15mm offset connector and it works like a champ. Added and incremented version #.

[GWS]

I hope I can get my case feeder for the ProChucker finished so I can go back to the APP and play with your new goodies.......awesome stuff, TylerR!

[o416]

Your math makes sense there Tyler. The wire diameter is 1mm so a 15mm OD would give you about 13mm ID which would be perfect for larger caliber brass like .45

Gonna order the 15mm as well :)

Tyler, I think the 15mm won't be good for .45 brass after all :(

The large one I have from DAA is about the same size OD and the ID is 13mm. I was hoping that this one from AliExpress would work for .45 brass and it looks like I ordered the same damn spring, sigh!

[o416]

Plot twist: the large DAA spring I have with 13mm ID works well with .45 brass. It's the large adapter that connects to the drop hole adapter that won't accept it.

Should I use the Extra Large adapter with this spring?

[TylerR]

Plot twist: the large DAA spring I have with 13mm ID works well with .45 brass. It's the large adapter that connects to the drop hole adapter that won't accept it.

Should I use the Extra Large adapter with this spring?

Hold on one second. I want to test something here.

So what you said is correct. I have modified the large connector and am printing it now to test.

[o416]

Hold on one second. I want to test something here.

So what you said is correct. I have modified the large connector and am printing it now to test.

You da man Tyler :)

[TylerR]

Ok so the modified version of the large spring adapter will now accept 45 brass, and is posted.

I have also made some very minor tolerance changes based on the differences in fit when printing at .12mm layers vs .2mm. I am now recommending all parts where dimensions are somewhat critical be printed at .12mm layers. So this would include pretty much everything except the main collator body, collator plates, and the slide plates, where .2mm is fine.

.2mm will still work, the parts will just have a slightly tighter fit.

I have posted v1.2.3 with above changes.

Also would like to add 0416 will be documenting this in the new manual he is putting together :)

[o416]

Ok so the modified version of the large spring adapter will now accept 45 brass, and is posted.

I have also made some very minor tolerance changes based on the differences in fit when printing at .12mm layers vs .2mm. I am now recommending all parts where dimensions are somewhat critical be printed at .12mm layers. So this would include pretty much everything except the main collator body, collator plates, and the slide plates, where .2mm is fine.

.2mm will still work, the parts will just have a slightly tighter fit.

I have posted v1.2.3 with above changes.

Also would like to add 0416 will be documenting this in the new manual he is putting together :)

Your post timing couldn't be better. I just printed the base down brass slide plate and the adjuster is super loose. I will try printing it at 0.2mm since I printed everything else at 0.2mm LOL

Sorry but I didn't want to wait a little longer at 0.12mm :P

As for the manual, it is at 10 pages already.... and it is super detailed so yaaaay for that.

[TylerR]

Your post timing couldn't be better. I just printed the base down brass slide plate and the adjuster is super loose. I will try printing it at 0.2mm since I printed everything else at 0.2mm LOL

Sorry but I didn't want to wait a little longer at 0.12mm :P

As for the manual, it is at 10 pages already.... and it is super detailed so yaaaay for that.

There is currently .1mm tolerance between those two parts. It really should not be super loose. I am afraid if I make the tolerance much less it will be too tight for most people.

[o416]

There is currently .1mm tolerance between those two parts. It really should not be super loose. I am afraid if I make the tolerance much less it will be too tight for most people.

This is embarrassing, but I was putting the adjuster on backwards LOOOOL

It is not loose now haha It's been a long day

[Andar]

This is embarrassing, but I was putting the adjuster on backwards LOOOOL

It is not loose now haha It's been a long day

Make sure you put that in the manual! Haha.

[TylerR]

Make sure you put that in the manual! Haha.

Haha, love it!

So 0416 and I discussed some organizational changes to the file structure to facilitate the manual. It is reflected in the new download.

[o416]

Make sure you put that in the manual! Haha.

LOL done!!!!

[TylerR]

I hope I can get my case feeder for the ProChucker finished so I can go back to the APP and play with your new goodies.......awesome stuff, TylerR!

I can't wait either. Just think of it this way, by the time you get to it all the bugs will be worked out :)

[TylerR]

This is kind of a side note, but I highly recommend this program for simple viewing of stl files. It has a silly name, but works wonderfully to spin thru stl files quickly.

https://papas-best.com/stlviewer_en

[lablover]

This is kind of a side note, but I highly recommend this program for simple viewing of stl files. It has a silly name, but works wonderfully to spin thru stl files quickly.

https://papas-best.com/stlviewer_en

That’s slick. Man this sure has progressed into something great. I think Tyler has gone miles as opposed to the original design.

[TylerR]

Andar, when you get a chance, I have reduced the bottom internal diameter of the drop tubes to 16.58mm to make them fit better when printed with .12mm layers. If you look at the latest download you will see. When you get a chance can you update yours?

[TylerR]

That’s slick. Man this sure has progressed into something great. I think Tyler has gone miles as opposed to the original design.

Thanks lablover. I appreciate the recognition. Once o416 and I compete this manual (he is doing the heavy lifting) I think this is going to be a really complete project.

[Andar]

Andar, when you get a chance, I have reduced the bottom internal diameter of the drop tubes to 16.58mm to make them fit better when printed with .12mm layers. If you look at the latest download you will see. When you get a chance can you update yours?

Okay, so you went from 16.65 to 16.58 correct? I'll try to start working on them soon.

[TylerR]

Okay, so you went from 16.65 to 16.58 correct? I'll try to start working on them soon.

Went from 16.64 to 16.58.

[Andar]

Went from 16.64 to 16.58.

Okay, thanks. Guess I was off by 0.01 trying to copy the stl file. I'll get them started.

Edit: They're done. That was a lot quicker than expected

[TylerR]

Okay, thanks. Guess I was off by 0.01 trying to copy the stl file. I'll get them started.

Understandable. Hard to get exact measurements off an stl file. Thank you.

[TylerR]

Okay, thanks. Guess I was off by 0.01 trying to copy the stl file. I'll get them started.

Edit: They're done. That was a lot quicker than expected

Can I ask another big favor? Can you give them the naming convention of "Switch_Drop_Tube_6mm" when you upload them?

[djinnpb]

Dip out of town for a few days and it's like Christmas grabbing the new pack :P So looks like the extra large chute spring from DAA isn't needed for 45ACP brass but larger connector?

[o416]

Hold on one second. I want to test something here.

So what you said is correct. I have modified the large connector and am printing it now to test.

Worked like a charm :) Thx Tyler!!!!

[TylerR]

Dip out of town for a few days and it's like Christmas grabbing the new pack :P So looks like the extra large chute spring from DAA isn't needed for 45ACP brass but larger connector?

Honestly this is a bit of a head scratcher for me, but the short answer is yes, just print the latest version of the Spring_Adapter_Large stl and it will accept the regular DAA large spring and feed .45 brass.
Now I am trying to figure out why exactly I bought the large output chute spring. :)
But in hindsight, the chute spring is a higher quality spring, and you get 4' of it. whereas the regular large spring is pretty short.

Looking forward for my chinese springs to arrive any day now (not), so I can see how well they fit the current adapters.

[Andar]

Can I ask another big favor? Can you give them the naming convention of "Switch_Drop_Tube_6mm" when you upload them?

They've already been uploaded, but I'll switch them in a bit.

[TylerR]

For anyone who downloads the latest, I added a License.txt file. This project will be licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/

The license is pretty simple. Do whatever the heck you want with it. Modify it. Distribute it with Attribution. But do not try to monetize it. If anyone has any comments or concerns let me know.

We are going to be including a thank you attribution page in the user guide where hopefully we can acknowledge the contributions of everyone who has made this possible. It should be a pretty long list.

[djinnpb]

Honestly this is a bit of a head scratcher for me, but the short answer is yes, just print the latest version of the Spring_Adapter_Large stl and it will accept the regular DAA large spring and feed .45 brass.
Now I am trying to figure out why exactly I bought the large output chute spring. :)
But in hindsight, the chute spring is a higher quality spring, and you get 4' of it. whereas the regular large spring is pretty short.

Looking forward for my chinese springs to arrive any day now (not), so I can see how well they fit the current adapters.

So I wondered about this. I could get 45ACP brass to roll around in the large spring just not the adapters and figured they *could* get stuck so went and ordered the large chute spring too. Even though the large spring is short it's actually too long for how I have mine setup so I'll get several from the output chute.

Also curious about the chinese springs..

[Andar]

Can I ask another big favor? Can you give them the naming convention of "Switch_Drop_Tube_6mm" when you upload them?

Done.

[bigmike111]

So, I went home for lunch and wanted to check out how the micro-switch drop tube was coming along and discovered this masterpiece:

272915

Ahhh, oh well. Adjusted the bed and started over, should be completed in a few more hours.

Other than the obvious differences, what is the preference between the switch and the light sensor? I feel like with the switch it would be easier to change drop tubes and not having to worry about the printed connectors wearing out and less things to go wrong.

[Macscotts56]

For anyone who downloads the latest, I added a License.txt file. This project will be licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/

The license is pretty simple. Do whatever you want the heck you want with it. Modify it. Distribute it with Attribution. But do not try to monetize it. If anyone has any comments or concerns let me know.

We are going to be including a thank you attribution page in the user guide where hopefully we can acknowledge the contributions of everyone who has made this possible. It should be a pretty long list.

I'm working on a BOM and work instructions for the main base that uses the JGY-370 motor. I know there is a manual being created as well, I'd be happy to help create content or edit it as well. As most of the heavy lifting in design has already been completed, I figured I could help contribute with a BOM and work instructions.

[TylerR]

Done.

Added to download. Thank you for your efforts.

[TylerR]

I'm working on a BOM and work instructions for the main base that uses the JGY-370 motor. I know there is a manual being created as well, I'd be happy to help create content or edit it as well. As most of the heavy lifting in design has already been completed, I figured I could help contribute with a BOM and work instructions.

Please reach out to o416. I am sure he would not mind the help. The main issue is just collating all the info already posted in this thread, and any assistance there would be appreciated.

[Andar]

So, I went home for lunch and wanted to check out how the micro-switch drop tube was coming along and discovered this masterpiece:

Ahhh, oh well. Adjusted the bed and started over, should be completed in a few more hours.

Other than the obvious differences, what is the preference between the switch and the light sensor? I feel like with the switch it would be easier to change drop tubes and not having to worry about the printed connectors wearing out and less things to go wrong.

Ooof, ouch, that sucks. I printed mine with a brim just to be sure that wouldn't happen, should probably have a note about that.
Might be time to invest in Octoprint and The Spaghetti Detective if you can get a Raspberry Pi or a dedicated computer to run with your printer. Saved me a lot of plastic when it caught and stopped a failed print.

I personally couldn't find all the parts needed for the light sensor for a decent price here in Canada without waiting months from China or ridiculous shipping prices from USA, so I decided on the pressure switches. It takes a bit of searching to find something with a very low actuation pressure to be used with cases, but they're widely available and cheaper overall. I use these. (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/V7-5F17D8-336/480-2395-ND/1248546)

With the lights, it should just work if you got decent components. With the switch, you need to make sure the arm/lever is the right size and shape to fit properly and won't get stuck or anything.
One thing you may need to watch out for is the thin slots for the screws. The first version I made snapped because they were thin, but the switch would still work. I beefed it up a bit and so far it hasn't broken. I also bought extra switches and will just keep them attached to whatever size tubes I need as I'm not doing a lot of calibres.

I don't think swapping the printed connectors out will be an issue, worst case you print off the small light ones again. The lights themselves should be cheap enough to just leave them permanently attached to the drop tube and use a wiring connector to swap out instead if you were worried.

[lablover]

So far I’ve only printed one set of sensor and light. I use that same set for all my drop tubes. I used Tyler’s quick disconnect on the end that plugs into the control box. I just leave it connected and when changing calibers I just unscrew the light and sensor and put it on the new drop tube. So far it’s been working fine and bullet proof. I may make another set just as a backup.

Picked up some clear PLA and am half tempted to print a new collater bowl out of clear. Also have that Amazon motor that needs a project ....hahahaha.

I ordered all my electronics via Amazon and ordered several of everything to have spares. If someone is in desperate need for a light and light sensor I’d be happy to send one.

[bigmike111]

Ooof, ouch, that sucks. I printed mine with a brim just to be sure that wouldn't happen, should probably have a note about that.
Might be time to invest in Octoprint and The Spaghetti Detective if you can get a Raspberry Pi or a dedicated computer to run with your printer. Saved me a lot of plastic when it caught and stopped a failed print.

I personally couldn't find all the parts needed for the light sensor for a decent price here in Canada without waiting months from China or ridiculous shipping prices from USA, so I decided on the pressure switches. It takes a bit of searching to find something with a very low actuation pressure to be used with cases, but they're widely available and cheaper overall. I use these. (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/V7-5F17D8-336/480-2395-ND/1248546)

With the lights, it should just work if you got decent components. With the switch, you need to make sure the arm/lever is the right size and shape to fit properly and won't get stuck or anything.
One thing you may need to watch out for is the thin slots for the screws. The first version I made snapped because they were thin, but the switch would still work. I beefed it up a bit and so far it hasn't broken. I also bought extra switches and will just keep them attached to whatever size tubes I need as I'm not doing a lot of calibres.

I don't think swapping the printed connectors out will be an issue, worst case you print off the small light ones again. The lights themselves should be cheap enough to just leave them permanently attached to the drop tube and use a wiring connector to swap out instead if you were worried.

Yea, I am still learning a lot about printing and trying to build myself up slowly.

I have all of the parts for a light sensor but there is a lot of stuff to go wrong, and if I'm not mistaken if the light or photocell needs to be replaced I would have to cut it off and re-solder the connection. It seems easier to just have a spade connector and leave it be in each drop tube/toolhead. It is much cheaper also. The only trouble I have had so far is finding switches that are activated by very little force.

I have some Amazon switches that I will try once I get all of the bugs worked out in the with the bullets getting flipped when they aren't and vice versa.

One step at a time.

[GWS]

So, I went home for lunch and wanted to check out how the micro-switch drop tube was coming along and discovered this masterpiece:

Ahhh, oh well. Adjusted the bed and started over, should be completed in a few more hours.

Other than the obvious differences, what is the preference between the switch and the light sensor? I feel like with the switch it would be easier to change drop tubes and not having to worry about the printed connectors wearing out and less things to go wrong.

So is that caused by the Creality bed no longer sticking the base down? The tall skinny part fell over I guess?

I don't know what's best switch-wise, but I thought the micro-switch was too high maintenance....had to change adjustment too often. That's why I tried the proximity sensor on my old Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder. Actually that proximity sensor was found when I was actually looking for a light sensor. That was before they were "discovered" by the Ammo Mike group here early on......and I've never tried the light sensor, since the proximity switch worked so well and was so forgiving caliber-wise using the same body.

TylerR is going to try one when I send him my stl and dwg files.....he may like it....or not....;)

[lablover]

So is that caused by the Creality bed no longer sticking the base down? The tall skinny part fell over I guess?

I don't know what's best switch-wise, but I thought the micro-switch was too high maintenance....had to change adjustment too often. That's why I tried the proximity sensor on my old Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder. Actually that proximity sensor was found when I was actually looking for a light sensor. That was before they were "discovered" by the Ammo Mike group here early on......and I've never tried the light sensor, since the proximity switch worked so well and was so forgiving caliber-wise using the same body.

TylerR is going to try one when I send him my stl and dwg files.....he may like it....or not....;)

I have 2 feeders made and use the proximity on one and light on the other. Honestly I like them both the same. I’m half tempted to order a smaller proximity switch I saw online to just streamline it a bit. However it’s working so well on the APP I don’t want to mess with it.

I swear I don’t know what I’m going to do when I have no more bullet feeders to print! Lol

[o416]

Please reach out to o416. I am sure he would not mind the help. The main issue is just collating all the info already posted in this thread, and any assistance there would be appreciated.

Almost done the manual :)

Should be ready by weeks end and we can get the editing process going.

I have already gone through the entire thread and added whatever I could find but I am sure I missed some stuff.

[o416]

Ooof, ouch, that sucks. I printed mine with a brim just to be sure that wouldn't happen, should probably have a note about that.
Might be time to invest in Octoprint and The Spaghetti Detective if you can get a Raspberry Pi or a dedicated computer to run with your printer. Saved me a lot of plastic when it caught and stopped a failed print.

I personally couldn't find all the parts needed for the light sensor for a decent price here in Canada without waiting months from China or ridiculous shipping prices from USA, so I decided on the pressure switches. It takes a bit of searching to find something with a very low actuation pressure to be used with cases, but they're widely available and cheaper overall. I use these. (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/V7-5F17D8-336/480-2395-ND/1248546)

With the lights, it should just work if you got decent components. With the switch, you need to make sure the arm/lever is the right size and shape to fit properly and won't get stuck or anything.
One thing you may need to watch out for is the thin slots for the screws. The first version I made snapped because they were thin, but the switch would still work. I beefed it up a bit and so far it hasn't broken. I also bought extra switches and will just keep them attached to whatever size tubes I need as I'm not doing a lot of calibres.

I don't think swapping the printed connectors out will be an issue, worst case you print off the small light ones again. The lights themselves should be cheap enough to just leave them permanently attached to the drop tube and use a wiring connector to swap out instead if you were worried.

Yaaay a fellow Canadian lol

[o416]

Ooof, ouch, that sucks. I printed mine with a brim just to be sure that wouldn't happen, should probably have a note about that.
Might be time to invest in Octoprint and The Spaghetti Detective if you can get a Raspberry Pi or a dedicated computer to run with your printer. Saved me a lot of plastic when it caught and stopped a failed print.

I personally couldn't find all the parts needed for the light sensor for a decent price here in Canada without waiting months from China or ridiculous shipping prices from USA, so I decided on the pressure switches. It takes a bit of searching to find something with a very low actuation pressure to be used with cases, but they're widely available and cheaper overall. I use these. (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/V7-5F17D8-336/480-2395-ND/1248546)

With the lights, it should just work if you got decent components. With the switch, you need to make sure the arm/lever is the right size and shape to fit properly and won't get stuck or anything.
One thing you may need to watch out for is the thin slots for the screws. The first version I made snapped because they were thin, but the switch would still work. I beefed it up a bit and so far it hasn't broken. I also bought extra switches and will just keep them attached to whatever size tubes I need as I'm not doing a lot of calibres.

I don't think swapping the printed connectors out will be an issue, worst case you print off the small light ones again. The lights themselves should be cheap enough to just leave them permanently attached to the drop tube and use a wiring connector to swap out instead if you were worried.

Yeah a brim is necessary for that part I find because there isn't much material on the bottom of the tube for adhesion to the bed. Of course that also depends on how you have your printer setup.

Regardless, I am adding brim as a recommendation for this part in the manual.

[TylerR]

So is that caused by the Creality bed no longer sticking the base down? The tall skinny part fell over I guess?

I don't know what's best switch-wise, but I thought the micro-switch was too high maintenance....had to change adjustment too often. That's why I tried the proximity sensor on my old Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder. Actually that proximity sensor was found when I was actually looking for a light sensor. That was before they were "discovered" by the Ammo Mike group here early on......and I've never tried the light sensor, since the proximity switch worked so well and was so forgiving caliber-wise using the same body.

TylerR is going to try one when I send him my stl and dwg files.....he may like it....or not....;)

GWS, I am telling you now, the proximity sensor is potentially a game changer. That is why I have been asking you very specific questions about it. I want to figure out the best way to incorporate it in to the current design. And all your efforts so far answer a lot of the questions.

[TylerR]

Almost done the manual :)

Should be ready by weeks end and we can get the editing process going.

I have already gone through the entire thread and added whatever I could find but I am sure I missed some stuff.

I have seen what you have so far, and in a short time you have something miles ahead of where I would be. really looking forward to version 1.0. Because just like the design itself, I am sure the manual will be a work in progress.

With all the crap going on in this country right now, it sure feels nice to work with like minded people to make something positive happen, doesn't it? :)

edited to add: just noticed your comment above about being Canadian. My statement still holds true. My brothers to the north are still my brothers. :drinks:

[o416]

I have seen what you have so far, and in a short time you have something miles ahead of where I would be. really looking forward to version 1.0. Because just like the design itself, I am sure the manual will be a work in progress.

With all the crap going on in this country right now, it sure feels nice to work with like minded people to make something positive happen, doesn't it? :)

edited to add: just noticed your comment above about being Canadian. My statement still holds true. My brothers to the north are still my brothers. :drinks:

I am actually enjoying making the manual lol I appreciate all the hard work you all have put into this project and I don't mind adapting it as this project evolves.

I don't think any country is devoid of crap these days but, yes, it is nice to come here and collaborate on something I have enjoyed being a part of.

Thanks for the love brother :) I love the USA and wish it the best during these dark times. Maybe one day I can live down south where firearm rights are taken seriously; even though that is changing.

Cheers :popcorn:

[bigmike111]

So is that caused by the Creality bed no longer sticking the base down? The tall skinny part fell over I guess?

I don't know what's best switch-wise, but I thought the micro-switch was too high maintenance....had to change adjustment too often. That's why I tried the proximity sensor on my old Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder. Actually that proximity sensor was found when I was actually looking for a light sensor. That was before they were "discovered" by the Ammo Mike group here early on......and I've never tried the light sensor, since the proximity switch worked so well and was so forgiving caliber-wise using the same body.

TylerR is going to try one when I send him my stl and dwg files.....he may like it....or not....;)

I’m assuming it was just a bed level issue. It could also be that I didn’t clean the bed properly or the fact that that black PLA has been a nightmare. I printed another tube before this in the green PLA and insert before without a brim and it was basically glued on. I actually had to put the whole bed with the collator plate in the freezer to get it to come off. Lol. I think it might be time to clean it with some acetone or something other than alcohol, I’ve been making a lot of things with it.

The proximity sensors are cool, we use them at work on out trucks for a lot of different reasons, not sure if they make different sizes but these are all about 1-1.25” in diameter. I’m sure there has to be smaller ones also. They are great because there aren’t any moving parts and they pretty much last forever as long as they don’t get damaged.

[Macscotts56]

I’m assuming it was just a bed level issue. It could also be that I didn’t clean the bed properly or the fact that that black PLA has been a nightmare. I printed another tube before this in the green PLA and insert before without a brim and it was basically glued on. I actually had to put the whole bed with the collator plate in the freezer to get it to come off. Lol. I think it might be time to clean it with some acetone or something other than alcohol, I’ve been making a lot of things with it.

The proximity sensors are cool, we use them at work on out trucks for a lot of different reasons, not sure if they make different sizes but these are all about 1-1.25” in diameter. I’m sure there has to be smaller ones also. They are great because there aren’t any moving parts and they pretty much last forever as long as they don’t get damaged.

I'll purchase one on Amazon to try out, I'm sure they will work. Ordering it right now.

[GWS]

The one I picked is an inductive proximity sensor.....not a capacitive which I hear is not as sensitive. It's 18mm (.7") diameter. $10.50
There is a smaller version but it not as sensitive either.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWTQ3SF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

I also bought a speed control for my motors that works with it well. for $7.50

https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-Controller-1803BK-Adjustable-Driver/dp/B00QGMESHM/ref=pd_sbs_328_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00QGMESHM&pd_rd_r=f8f98b2b-5746-4db9-95cf-386118988bc7&pd_rd_w=pZcAa&pd_rd_wg=urYZe&pf_rd_p=ed1e2146-ecfe-435e-b3b5-d79fa072fd58&pf_rd_r=SYN0J5STKTNMW0QDXXE1&psc=1&refRID=SYN0J5STKTNMW0QDXXE1

So for simplicity and price it's hard to beat.....no other electronic board is required.

[TylerR]

The one I picked is an inductive proximity sensor.....not a capacitive which I hear is not as sensitive. It's 18mm (.7") diameter. $10.50
There is a smaller version but it not as sensitive either.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWTQ3SF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

I also bought a speed control for my motors that works with it well. for $7.50

https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-Controller-1803BK-Adjustable-Driver/dp/B00QGMESHM/ref=pd_sbs_328_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00QGMESHM&pd_rd_r=f8f98b2b-5746-4db9-95cf-386118988bc7&pd_rd_w=pZcAa&pd_rd_wg=urYZe&pf_rd_p=ed1e2146-ecfe-435e-b3b5-d79fa072fd58&pf_rd_r=SYN0J5STKTNMW0QDXXE1&psc=1&refRID=SYN0J5STKTNMW0QDXXE1

So for simplicity and price it's hard to beat.....no other electronic board is required.

I am going to grab one of these for testing once I get my hands on your mount. Do you see any reason not to go with this one? Says it has 10mm range. Seems to be same threading (18mm)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZBC6J2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AGOSLUO29ZUJ2&psc=1

[lablover]

I am going to grab one of these for testing once I get my hands on your mount. Do you see any reason not to go with this one? Says it has 10mm range. Seems to be same threading (18mm)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZBC6J2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AGOSLUO29ZUJ2&psc=1

Is GWS latest proximity mount in the latest download....not home so I can’t check

[TylerR]

Is GWS latest proximity mount in the latest download....not home so I can’t check

No, not yet.

[TylerR]

Just a follow up on my previous post. I’m going to order one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC

The specs look absolutely perfect for what we’re trying to do, it’s widely available, and compared to the McMaster motor it’s way cheaper.

But I don’t have a way to modify the bullet feeder base. Would anyone be willing to make a version for this? The motor dimensions are below. I only use fusion360 for cad and unfortunately I find it very difficult to modify STL files with that program.

269302

Do you have any updates on how this motor is performing so far for you?

[o416]

Do you have any updates on how this motor is performing so far for you?

I am using the Grainger one with no issues so far but I haven't really reloaded with the new collator yet :)

[TylerR]

I am using the Grainger one with no issues so far but I haven't really reloaded with the new collator yet :)

Can you post this link for that one again?

[o416]

Can you post this link for that one again?

These were the two motors that were suggested:
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAY...r-12VDC-52JE51
https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

[lablover]

Can you post this link for that one again?

I hope to be using the Amazon motor in the next few days . Planning on a new print starting tomorrow

[o416]

I hope to be using the Amazon motor in the next few days . Planning on a new print starting tomorrow

Which one? This?
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Se.../dp/B07YBXMTWC

[TylerR]

I hope to be using the Amazon motor in the next few days . Planning on a new print starting tomorrow

I would love to hear how it goes. May build a third feeder soon myself, so trying to decide on the motor.

[Rage 01]

I personally couldn't find all the parts needed for the light sensor for a decent price here in Canada without waiting months from China or ridiculous shipping prices from USA, so I decided on the pressure switches. It takes a bit of searching to find something with a very low actuation pressure to be used with cases, but they're widely available and cheaper overall. I use these. (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/V7-5F17D8-336/480-2395-ND/1248546)

As a Canadian I found the same problem. I just waited my 3 weeks for the parts to come in from China. Best thing I did. The sensor I found to work very well. Much better than the micro switch system I think. I ordered 3 sets when I did order them. If you are close to Calgary and want to play with one let me know. I can set you up with some parts.

[Macscotts56]

Do you, o416, know if the bolt pattern for that motor, https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Se.../dp/B07YBXMTWC, is the same as this one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JHVJYL/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_b3y0FbGEM09E7?_encoding=UTF 8&psc=1

[lablover]

Which one? This?
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Se.../dp/B07YBXMTWC

Yes sir

[TylerR]

Do you, o416, know if the bolt pattern for that motor, https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Se.../dp/B07YBXMTWC, is the same as this one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JHVJYL/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_b3y0FbGEM09E7?_encoding=UTF 8&psc=1

They are not the same. The Greartisan is a larger motor. There are bases designed around both motors.

[o416]

Maybe I am doing something wrong here but I printed the new drop tubes with the smaller base because I found my existing ones to be pretty loose when they interfaces with my DAA bullet feed dies. I printed them at .12mm with 4 walls instead of 2 and they still feel pretty loose. By loose I mean they take little force to lift off. Am I the only one experiencing this?

[TylerR]

Maybe I am doing something wrong here but I printed the new drop tubes with the smaller base because I found my existing ones to be pretty loose when they interfaces with my DAA bullet feed dies. I printed them at .12mm with 4 walls instead of 2 and they still feel pretty loose. By loose I mean they take little force to lift off. Am I the only one experiencing this?

It is not required that they have a super tight fit anyway, because the column of bullets provide weight to keep it in place. But that is why I reduced the dia in the last version. For the new one I printed it was a snug fit to my
DAA die, but not hard to put on or take off. So what you are describing sounds about right.

[GWS]

I am going to grab one of these for testing once I get my hands on your mount. Do you see any reason not to go with this one? Says it has 10mm range. Seems to be same threading (18mm)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZBC6J2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AGOSLUO29ZUJ2&psc=1

I've only used the one I listed.....and it's INDUCTIVE not Capacitive. I've been told that the capacitive ones are not sensitive enough.....(by Tim at TH3D, the maker's of Ezabl-Pro bed leveling system that uses one, that I love and use!) But I've also used that inductive proximity switch for 2 years on my Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder before I ever heard of 3d printers!8-)

I emailed you STL and DWG files of my Proximity Switch files, but I made one error.....I named the housing 19mm instead of 18mm. 18mm is correct......you may want to correct that and go ahead and erase the old proximity zip file on your cloud drive, and put them where you want. I'm not going to license or patent anything so do what you want with them. Merry Christmas! Hope you like them. You're MY Santa Claus this year! You didn't send me my printer, but you sure gave me a lot to do with it......endless! And the new printer bed suggestion too! ;) My kids are all getting me PLA for Christmas! :)

[TylerR]

I've only used the one I listed.....and it's INDUCTIVE not Capacitive. I've been told that the capacitive ones are not sensitive enough.....(by Tim at TH3D, the maker's of Ezabl-Pro bed leveling that I love and use.) But I've also used that inductive proximity switch for 2 years on my Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder before I ever heard of 3d printers!;)

I emailed you STL and DWG files of my Proximity Switch files, but I made one error.....I named the housing 19mm instead of 18mm. 18mm is correct......you may want to correct that and go ahead and erase the old proximity zip file on your cloud drive, and put them where you want. I'm not going to license or patent anything so do what you want with them.

Thank you for that. I should probably go with what you already recommended and stop messing around :)
them
My plan is to drop your files in the Drop Tubes section.. But give it really good file name structure, so they stand out from what is there. I am still on the fence about "remixing" them to adapt to the drop tubes. We shall see.

I am stoked to finally have my hands on them to do some testing.

As far as licensing, I decided to add the licensing to offer our project some protection against monetization. It would be very easy for me to start trying to make money off this project. But that is not what this project is about. It's about giving back to a community of like minded patriots who have a need and desire to streamline the reloading process for their own personal use. That is the true goal of this project starting with the legend, AmmoMike83 himself. My hope by adding the licensing, is that we will continue in that spirit of sharing, and nothing else.

[TylerR]

Merry Christmas! Hope you like them. You're MY Santa Claus this year! You didn't send me my printer, but you sure gave me a lot to do with it......endless! And the new printer bed suggestion too! ;) My kids are all getting me PLA for Christmas! :)

Merry Christmas to you my friend!

I am only happy I have contributed to a new passion for you. When your older (like me :)) new passions are hard to come by. And those are some good kids!

[o416]

It is not required that they have a super tight fit anyway, because the column of bullets provide weight to keep it in place. But that is why I reduced the dia in the last version. For the new one I printed it was a snug fit to my
DAA die, but not hard to put on or take off. So what you are describing sounds about right.

Were those changes effective as of v1.2.3 or v1.2.4? I wouldn't describe mine as snug :/

[TylerR]

Were those changes effective as of v1.2.3 or v1.2.4? I wouldn't describe mine as snug :/

1.2.4

[o416]

1.2.4

That explains it :)

[Macscotts56]

They are not the same. The Greartisan is a larger motor. There are bases designed around both motors.

I knew there was a different base for the Greartisan, from the pictures of their bolt patterns they look to be the same which is why I asked the question. In hindsight the fact there is a different base for each should have been the light bulb moment to indicate the bolt patterns are not the same. Sorry for not thinking more before I asked.

[lablover]

New base is on the printer for the Amazon motor....7 hours into the print with clear PLA. Should be interesting when done. Kind of neat that you can see all the infill etc. should be done In. 30 ish hours...uggggg

[djinnpb]

@o416: I'd be happy to help with some documentation as well.

Made a list of various hardware needed to assemble one of Tyler's bases/mount and electronics boxes so I could make a second one and retire my AM base. Not sure if these sizes were the same but these are what I used:

rear mount - 2x M3x16 and 2x M4x20
ramp - 2x #6x3/4 (prior to current base with just 1 hole)
electronics box - 4x 2-56 x 1/4
hole adapter - 4x 2-56 x 1/4

Post mount - 1x 3/8 x 2" bolt and nut

re: motors.. I've got an original AM base with a JYG-370 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JHVJYL/) and it was a horrible fail with the T handle I printed (it was a big fail.. maybe the hex would saved me on that). Swapped to the Dayton 2L007 on a Tyler base and an AM base (same motor as the grainger one... ) and it's great .. drilled the shaft and turned a 1/4 pin to fit. I have to say these plates/base/plates are truly the best thing ever. I had had issues with the AM base and Tom adjustments .. more fiddling than loading.. now these with wider plates.. tons better. Also about to print another base. Is there a change still waiting on that the drop hole or current version good?

[o416]

Hey!

I am making final edits on the manual and should have one ready by weeks end, if not early next week.

For screws, I didn't specify actual just the number needed as people can use whatever they see fit by working with the existing one or making larger ones (maybe not a good idea).

Regardless, it wouldn't hurt to put actual screw sizes but I will leave that for others to fill in.

A shared version will be made for people to edit soon after I am done :)


@o416: I'd be happy to help with some documentation as well.

Made a list of various hardware needed to assemble one of Tyler's bases/mount and electronics boxes so I could make a second one and retire my AM base. Not sure if these sizes were the same but these are what I used:

rear mount - 2x M3x16 and 2x M4x20
ramp - 2x #6x3/4 (prior to current base with just 1 hole)
electronics box - 4x 2-56 x 1/4
hole adapter - 4x 2-56 x 1/4

Post mount - 1x 3/8 x 2" bolt and nut

re: motors.. I've got an original AM base with a JYG-370 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JHVJYL/) and it was a horrible fail with the T handle I printed (it was a big fail.. maybe the hex would saved me on that). Swapped to the Dayton 2L007 on a Tyler base and an AM base (same motor as the grainger one... ) and it's great .. drilled the shaft and turned a 1/4 pin to fit. I have to say these plates/base/plates are truly the best thing ever. I had had issues with the AM base and Tom adjustments .. more fiddling than loading.. now these with wider plates.. tons better. Also about to print another base. Is there a change still waiting on that the drop hole or current version good?

[djinnpb]

New base is on the printer for the Amazon motor....7 hours into the print with clear PLA. Should be interesting when done. Kind of neat that you can see all the infill etc. should be done In. 30 ish hours...uggggg

Funny story here I have some clear PETG and thought I would do a clear drop tube and it would look so cool. Yeaaaa.. LED lit the *whole* thing up :P looked cool but was horrible for a photo cell drop tube :P Bullets never stopped flowing.

[lablover]

Funny story here I have some clear PETG and thought I would do a clear drop tube and it would look so cool. Yeaaaa.. LED lit the *whole* thing up :P looked cool but was horrible for a photo cell drop tube :P Bullets never stopped flowing.


Good tip...lol

[o416]

Funny story here I have some clear PETG and thought I would do a clear drop tube and it would look so cool. Yeaaaa.. LED lit the *whole* thing up :P looked cool but was horrible for a photo cell drop tube :P Bullets never stopped flowing.

Maybe that should go in the manual too ;) lol

[TylerR]

Is there a change still waiting on that the drop hole or current version good?


After going around and around on it, I have decided to not make any changes to the base at this moment. I have absolutely no issues with my 230gn .300bo boolits, which are quite long. And we worked out lablovers .32acp. So I figure why fix something that isn't broken.

[TylerR]

Funny story here I have some clear PETG and thought I would do a clear drop tube and it would look so cool. Yeaaaa.. LED lit the *whole* thing up :P looked cool but was horrible for a photo cell drop tube :P Bullets never stopped flowing.

Thats pretty funny. I bet it looked super cool though!!

[TylerR]

So I am working on yet another solution for proximity sensors, that would leverage the current drop tube design. This would be an alternative to GWS's design if you didn't want the bullet stack to go all the way up the spring column. I figure there are not enough options now to confuse people, so lets create some more. haha
Unfortunately my sensor won't be here till next week so it will be a bit before I can get proof of concept. If it looks promising I will probably build my third feeder around it.

[lablover]

Thats pretty funny. I bet it looked super cool though!!

Hmmm, I’m having visions of cool colored led lights on my somewhat clear base.........not! Should be done in about 30 min or so. Yea, it’s butt ugly but smooth and very functional. Being able to see all the infill is kind of weird. I’ve had that roll sitting around forever

[GWS]

Since not much in electronics is necessary for my proximity switch application, I did make a much smaller box to hold the on/off speed control switch that runs everything. I'm sending the STL's (box and lid) to TylerR so he can add them if he wants.....screws right in to his base but only needs and uses one screw.

There's a reason for that, because one can rotate the box switch downward since most collators are mounted high. Besides the mounting hole in the back, there is a hole for the speed control on/off switch, and 3 holes on the opposite face for the power supply, proximity sensor, and motor. Wiring scheme is simple. The lid requires no screws it just slides in. Pictures below if anyone is interested. Dimensions is only 2"X2"X1.5" aprox.

https://i.postimg.cc/pdb85HVc/IMG-3730.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/6pGnQ3KG/IMG-3728.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/pVqDG4ky/IMG-3724.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/4d8mPkZg/Screenshot-2020-12-11-184129.png

[TylerR]

Since not much in electronics is necessary for my proximity switch application, I did make a much smaller box to hold the on/off speed control switch that runs everything. I'm sending the STL's (box and lid) to TylerR so he can add them if he wants.....screws right in to his base but only needs and uses one screw.

There's a reason for that, because one can rotate the box switch downward since most collators are mounted high. Besides the mounting hole in the back, there is a hole for the speed control on/off switch, and 3 holes on the opposite face for the power supply, proximity sensor, and motor. Wiring scheme is simple. The lid requires no screws it just slides in. Pictures below if anyone is interested. Dimensions is only 2"X2"X2" aprox.


Love the slide on cover GWS. I can definitely add it to the download. I may go ahead and steal that idea and modify mine.

I think you will like my proximity sensor alternate solution. Of course I stole a few of your ideas in my design :) They definitely fill two separate niche's, depending on the need.

[GWS]

On pins and needles......waiting.....patiently.....okay, not so patiently.....

You may not even like the sensor....we will see.;)

I did modify my original elec. box and rounded the corners just a little....you are rubbing off on me. Looking now at the pictures I just posted, I could have rounded them more.....and probably will eventually. The pictures with the elect. inside was of the first one printed for the Ammo Mike Collator before I changed the files, rounded. I printed the new one for the big collator and the rounds didn't hurt anything.

[TylerR]

On pins and needles......waiting.....patiently.....okay, not so patiently.....

You may not even like the sensor....we will see.;)

I did modify my original elec. box and rounded the corners just a little....you are rubbing off on me. Looking now at the pictures I just posted, I could have rounded them more.....and probably will eventually. The pictures with the elect. inside was before I rounded. I printed the new one for the big collator and the rounds didn't hurt anything.

As with everything, I love the experiment. And for a $12 sensor its not much of an investment. Just annoyed I have to wait a week to get it for testing.

[GWS]

BTW, if you happen to print the box ever, I only rounded one end of the lid....opposite the side you feed into the box.....shoulda rounded the other end too leaving only the sides square. I'll change that and repost.

Nevermind that....I'm tired again.....I rounded only one end of the lid, because it has to be that way. :roll:

https://i.postimg.cc/QN1QQmnn/Screenshot-2020-12-11-211447.png
https://i.postimg.cc/0jY795wq/Screenshot-2020-12-11-211310.png

[o416]

I think we need to come up with a name for this project. Any ideas? lol

[TylerR]

I think we need to come up with a name for this project. Any ideas? lol

Universal Reloading Feeder
Universal Reload Feed System

?

[o416]

Universal Reloading Feeder
Universal Reload Feed System

?

I like the word Universal in it because the collator covers all bases.

[GWS]

Just throwing out words that could fit......
Homecrafted Enhancments for Handloading Systems
3D Printed Handloading Enhancements
Home-printed Ammo Collaters and Feeders
Enhanced Handloading: 3D Printing at Home
HomeFree Handloading Sytems

[TylerR]

Universal Reloading Feeder
Universal Reload Feed System

?

DIY Universal Reload Feeder

[lablover]

Pins and needles is a understatement! GWS, love that little control box. I might have to go that route as the height of mine I seem to bash my head on it a few times during a load session. Can you post a better picture of how you have it mounted?

[lablover]

As with everything, I love the experiment. And for a $12 sensor its not much of an investment. Just annoyed I have to wait a week to get it for testing.

Where did you order it from? Just checked Amazon for the one I have to order another and it says delivery Tuesday. Bit more expensive ...correction, cheaper

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&psc=1

[TylerR]

Where did you order it from? Just checked Amazon for the one I have to order another and it says delivery Tuesday. Bit more expensive ...correction, cheaper

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&psc=1

I ordered two. I did order that one for the GWS solution and it should be here today. I ordered a different one that has a detection range of 15mm, because I believe the longer range will be needed for what I am working on.

I have posted GWS's new proximity sensor files in the downloads folder. It also has the electronics box files. I will be incorporating these in to the main download but have not settled on where to put them yet.

[lablover]

I ordered two. I did order that one for the GWS solution and it should be here today. I ordered a different one that has a detection range of 15mm, because I believe the longer range will be needed for what I am working on.

Man I can’t wait to see this! Should cut down on the wiring too.

[TylerR]

HomeFree Handloading Sytems

This one has some serious potential. Love the play on words.

[TylerR]

Man I can’t wait to see this! Should cut down on the wiring too.

I just wish these proximity sensors were a little smaller. The one I settled on is shorter then the one GWS used, but much wider in diameter. it is 30mm dia. Detection range of 15mm.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081NNN98M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

GWS, can you clarify something for me with these proximity sensors? With the setup you have, it is a 3 wire NPN model. How is this wired to your speed controller and power source. Does the power for the motor pass directly through the sensor? It seems like they are rated pretty low as far as the pass through current allowed (200-300mA). McMaster Carr motor is 1.3 A max load). I feel like I am missing some important detail here.

the other one I ordered is a two wire version, and I was assuming I could pass the motor current through it, but now I think that is wrong. Actually just cancelled the order in case I have to order something different. They do have the same model in a 3 wire NPN version.

One other question. The rated detection range is for iron. The one you are using is 8mm range. What do you think the actual detection range is for a .223 bullet?

Ok, another question. Can you post the link to the speed controller you used?

Thanks!

[lablover]

This one has some serious potential. Love the play on words.

Has my vote! Love the sound of it

[TylerR]

Also found this one. 18mm dia, small form factor. 14mm detection distance. Appears to be made in USA and is roughly twice the price of the other ones. If I could prove it could detect .223 from roughly 10mm away I would go for it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ARGRRYVHZPCOT&psc=1

[lablover]

Hey Tyler, not sure this is what GWS is using but I’m using it and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Onyehn-Voltage-Controller-1803BK-Adjustable/dp/B07FLJ6ZHQ/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?crid=3H13G32MV4ZZ2&cv_ct_cx=low+voltage+speed+controller&dchild=1&keywords=low+voltage+speed+controller&pd_rd_i=B07FLJ6ZHQ&pd_rd_r=d0d93bc0-b01b-4f09-bb92-1e6396f42b19&pd_rd_w=aMoFj&pd_rd_wg=xb8xp&pf_rd_p=1835a2a9-7ed8-48dc-ad07-fcd7527bd2bc&pf_rd_r=VFJECDDXSW9TSW45QMF3&psc=1&qid=1607799507&sprefix=Low+voltage+spe%2Caps%2C183&sr=1-1-80ba0e26-a1cd-4e7b-87a0-a2ffae3a273c

That’s a link of it in my cart

[djinnpb]

Hey Tyler, not sure this is what GWS is using but I’m using it and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Onyehn-Voltage-Controller-1803BK-Adjustable/dp/B07FLJ6ZHQ/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?crid=3H13G32MV4ZZ2&cv_ct_cx=low+voltage+speed+controller&dchild=1&keywords=low+voltage+speed+controller&pd_rd_i=B07FLJ6ZHQ&pd_rd_r=d0d93bc0-b01b-4f09-bb92-1e6396f42b19&pd_rd_w=aMoFj&pd_rd_wg=xb8xp&pf_rd_p=1835a2a9-7ed8-48dc-ad07-fcd7527bd2bc&pf_rd_r=VFJECDDXSW9TSW45QMF3&psc=1&qid=1607799507&sprefix=Low+voltage+spe%2Caps%2C183&sr=1-1-80ba0e26-a1cd-4e7b-87a0-a2ffae3a273c

That’s a link of it in my cart

Those are the ones I'm using too. Note I would check them before wiring up. I had ordered 4 and 1 barely turned went straight to 9vdc so it lacked slow speeds. Opened another and it was fine. China crapshoot I guess.

[GWS]

Sorry guys, had to do finish carpentry all day.....again, so I've not been near a computer.

The link on the controller that Lablover posted is the one I posted a month or so ago.....and I posted the wiring diagram to him twice....I'll have to look for them. Too bad it's so hard to search this forum.....least for me it is.

Absolutely, the only sensor I've used is the one I posted.....I have zero experience with anything else.....but my first one was a two wire and worked fine. I have no idea why they added the third wire later....it isn't needed.

Wiring is shown in the Post 1066, using the 3 wire.

[lablover]

Sorry guys, had to do finish carpentry all day.....again, so I've not been near a computer.

The link on the controller that Lablover posted is the one I posted a month or so ago.....and I posted the wiring diagram to him twice....I'll have to look for them. To bad it's so hard to search this forum.....least for me it is.

The absolute only sensor I've used is the one I posted.....I have zero experience with anything else.....but my first one was a two wire and worked fine. I have no idea why they added the third wire later....it isn't needed.

Wiring is shown in the Post 1066, using the 3 wire.


That’s right, remind me how bad my memory is! Hahahahaha. Glad you posted that because I forgot again! I also saw a pic of how you mounted the box...bonus. Can’t wait to print it.

[GWS]

That’s right, remind me how bad my memory is! Hahahahaha. Glad you posted that because I forgot again! I also saw a pic of how you mounted the box...bonus. Can’t wait to print it.

That's how I mounted the box in Mike's little one. For Tyler's big one I just mounted it sideways using the same hole in the box but fastened it sidways to one of TylerR's electronics box mounting holes on the left side.....and pivoted it down toward me below.....way below! :roll:

It takes me a bit to get a print idea right.....while the lid works great.....even with the printer struggling with the mid air lip....I probably ought to bevel that underside to print prettier.....no, I don't know why I didn't do that the first time......just my lack of experience showing up again.....and my memory isn't any better than yours.

[o416]

Tyler, are the .45, .40 and 9mm APP inserts designed for the largest APP clear tube? I printed the .45 and 9mm one and the largest tube fits the snuggest.

Was wondering if you had particular clear tubes in mind for different inserts, because that is the case for the offset connectors.

I should add that to the manual if that is the case.

Thx!

[TylerR]

Tyler, are the .45, .40 and 9mm APP inserts designed for the largest APP clear tube? I printed the .45 and 9mm one and the largest tube fits the snuggest.

Was wondering if you had particular clear tubes in mind for different inserts, because that is the case for the offset connectors.

I should add that to the manual if that is the case.

Thx!

Yes, the #3 or #4 should both fit.

[o416]

I found the #3 to be a little on the loose side.

[TylerR]

I found the #3 to be a little on the loose side.

A little loose should not hurt anything. When in use it is going to have the weight of the drop tube holding it down. There is a slight difference between the #3 and #4 tubes but not enough to warrant making everything specific to them.

[o416]

A little loose should not hurt anything. When in use it is going to have the weight of the drop tube holding it down. There is a slight difference between the #3 and #4 tubes but not enough to warrant making everything specific to them.

Yup :) Into the manual it goes haha

[o416]

Here is a video of my collator in action :)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FbEBsfMSUupzi_wM9DHVxbWMJHdMhUnQ/view?usp=sharing

Thx Tyler!!!!

[TylerR]

Here is a video of my collator in action :)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FbEBsfMSUupzi_wM9DHVxbWMJHdMhUnQ/view?usp=sharing

Thx Tyler!!!!

Now that's what I'm talking about! Looking good :)

[GWS]

TylerR: Looking forward to the Christmas Holidays when my contruction project is finished and I have time to spend on discovering your latest APP magic! And actually getting to use my Pro Chucker 7 with it's brand new Collators!

My next project after those two may be to make an APP out of my already awesome RCBS Summit press. Maybe to become Ultimate Awesome?....8-)

Right now I'm just tired.....not used to working this hard on my job sites. I appreciate what my broken brother contributed to the company a lot more for dang sure. ;)

[TylerR]

A little loose should not hurt anything. When in use it is going to have the weight of the drop tube holding it down. There is a slight difference between the #3 and #4 tubes but not enough to warrant making everything specific to them.

I do question if my printer is printing a little on the small side, and maybe why some people are reporting things to be less snug with their prints, especially when being matched up with a external part, like a clear tube or DAA die.

for instance that #3-#4 adapter is 14.56mm dia according to CAD, but my printed version is closer to 14.2mm. Curious what your printed version is?

[o416]

I am having a problem printing the APP bullets slides. I tried the raft, brim and other combos, but the spring pin keeps breaking off the bed.

I don't know what to do :/

[TylerR]

I am having a problem printing the APP bullets slides. I tried the raft, brim and other combos, but the spring pin keeps breaking off the bed.

I don't know what to do :/

Brim won't make any difference. Raft is the answer. When printing with a proper raft I never have issues with failed prints, regardless how small the piece is. Are you slicing with Cura using standard raft settings? What is you infill set at?

[o416]

Cura with standard raft setting with 20% infill.

[TylerR]

Cura with standard raft setting with 20% infill.

Only other thing I can think of is print speed for the first few layers. My initial layer print speed is set to 20.

[o416]

Only other thing I can think of is print speed for the first few layers. My initial layer print speed is set to 20.

My settings are identical to yours. I am trying to print it on its side with supports and with the pin on the top; it is worth a shot.

Will suck to have to remove support material from the slide area as it needs to be smooth.

I can't seem to get that thing to not break off :(

[TylerR]

My settings are identical to yours. I am trying to print it on its side with supports and with the pin on the top; it is worth a shot.

Will suck to have to remove support material from the slide area as it needs to be smooth.

I can't seem to get that thing to not break off :(

And you are printing at .12 layers right? Printing other ways with supports will work, will just require more cleanup.

When you get a chance if you could answer my question above it would be helpful.
"for instance that #3-#4 adapter is 14.56mm dia according to CAD, but my printed version is closer to 14.2mm. Curious what your printed version is?"

[o416]

And you are printing at .12 layers right? Printing other ways with supports will work, will just require more cleanup.

When you get a chance if you could answer my question above it would be helpful.
"for instance that #3-#4 adapter is 14.56mm dia according to CAD, but my printed version is closer to 14.2mm. Curious what your printed version is?"

Sorry I missed that. I haven't printed any adapters yet, only the inserts.

The OD of the 9mm/.45 insert is ~18.8mm and ID is ~14.4mm

Hope that helps!

[o416]

And you are printing at .12 layers right? Printing other ways with supports will work, will just require more cleanup.

When you get a chance if you could answer my question above it would be helpful.
"for instance that #3-#4 adapter is 14.56mm dia according to CAD, but my printed version is closer to 14.2mm. Curious what your printed version is?"

Yes, I am using .12 layer height with 4 walls. I tried 2 walls and no luck as well.

It prints ok for the vertical part but when it tries to join it to the slide horizontally, it comes loose.

I noticed that the tip of the spring pin has a little taper to it which decreases the surface contact to the bed as slightly thicker layers are printed on to of it. Is the taper on the tip necessary?

[TylerR]

Sorry I missed that. I haven't printed any adapters yet, only the inserts.

The OD of the 9mm/.45 insert is ~18.8mm and ID is ~14.4mm

Hope that helps!

It does. So as I suspected, your printer is more accurate then mine at least as far as those internal diameters. I may shave a little more off to make it just a tad more snug. Variations in everyone printer accuracy makes it tough to find the happy medium.

[TylerR]

Yes, I am using .12 layer height with 4 walls. I tried 2 walls and no luck as well.

It prints ok for the vertical part but when it tries to join it to the slide horizontally, it comes loose.

I noticed that the tip of the spring pin has a little taper to it which decreases the surface contact to the bed as slightly thicker layers are printed on to of it. Is the taper on the tip necessary?

The slight taper is there because without it there ends up being a slight lip that the APP spring does not want to slide over. Without it, it would require most people to have to sand it down a bit.

[o416]

It does. So as I suspected, your printer is more accurate then mine at least as far as those internal diameters. I may shave a little more off to make it just a tad more snug. Variations in everyone printer accuracy makes it tough to find the happy medium.

Hmmmmm, do you adjust your flow rate for the filaments that you use? I find when I do that, dimensions improve greatly.

I use a different one for each filament after I print a single walled square with zero infill and not top/bottom infills.

I measure the sides with a caliper and then average them to get the flow rate.

[TylerR]

Hmmmmm, do you adjust your flow rate for the filaments that you use? I find when I do that, dimensions improve greatly.

No. Any more detail on how to do that would be appreciated.

[o416]

No. Any more detail on how to do that would be appreciated.

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#flow

This made a super difference for printing your parts. I edited my post above, but see the link in this post.

[o416]

Basically, you want the line of filament to match the nozzle size. A 0.4mm nozzle should drop lines that are 0.4mm in width.

I use AMZ3D filament and there is deviation in the different colors. I print the hollow test cube and measure all the sides and average the number.

Then I take 0.4/my average and multiply by my current flow rate by 100; I always print the test cube at 100% which is default.

That makes sure the walls are correctly sized which makes sure that dimensions are correct.

[TylerR]

Basically, you want the line of filament to match the nozzle size. A 0.4mm nozzle should drop lines that are 0.4mm in width.

I use AMZ3D filament and there is deviation in the different colors. I print the hollow test cube and measure all the sides and average the number.

Then I take 0.4/my average and multiply by my current flow rate by 100; I always print the test cube at 100% which is default.

That makes sure the walls are correctly sized which makes sure that dimensions are correct.

I will look in to this. :)

So I ended up buying a more expensive 18mm sensor that claims to have 14mm of detection. I have also come up with some new ideas that will hopefully allow my concept to work, even only at a 5mm detection distance of .223 bullets. Now I just have to wait for the part.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[o416]

I will look in to this. :)

So I ended up buying a more expensive 18mm sensor that claims to have 14mm of detection. I have also come up with some new ideas that will hopefully allow my concept to work, even only at a 5mm detection distance of .223 bullets. Now I just have to wait for the part.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXXH4OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Flow rate is super important and makes my prints look gorgeous :) I was getting over extrusions on my first layers but once I fixed the flow rate, all I can say is WOW!

The layers look perfect now and my parts actually fit for a change lol

Your parts look pretty nice in the videos though.

[TylerR]

Flow rate is super important and makes my prints look gorgeous :) I was getting over extrusions on my first layers but once I fixed the flow rate, all I can say is WOW!

The layers look perfect now and my parts actually fit for a change lol

Your parts look pretty nice in the videos though.

Better get it in the manual! :)

[o416]

Better get it in the manual! :)

Already there sir :)

[TylerR]

Already there sir :)

All joking aside, I just want everyone to know what a killer job you are doing on the manual. It will be changing over time as we add to the project but looking very good so far. Hopefully we should have v1.0 ready by next week, wouldn't you say?

[o416]

All joking aside, I just want everyone to know what a killer job you are doing on the manual. It will be changing over time as we add to the project but looking very good so far. Hopefully we should have v1.0 ready by next week, wouldn't you say?

Thanks Tyler! I told you I was OCD enough to do it hahaha And thank you for being so flexible and accepting my suggestions.

I am just waiting for you to do your edits and we can definitely have a copy for the boys this coming week :)

[o416]

DIY Universal Reload Feeder

Universal Reloading System?

[o416]

Universal Reloading System?

It is URS to make.... get it???? LOL!

[TylerR]

Universal Reloading System?

Works for me. Or HomeFree Reloading Sytems. That is a combination of the above with GWS's HomeFree, which I think has a nice ring to it.

[TylerR]

It is URS to make.... get it???? LOL!

Lets go with "HomeFree Universal Reloading System"

[o416]

Lets go with "HomeFree Universal Reloading System"

Yeah, that sounds nice :)

[o416]

The slight taper is there because without it there ends up being a slight lip that the APP spring does not want to slide over. Without it, it would require most people to have to sand it down a bit.

Maybe replacing the spring hook with a hole that people can put a screw into? Might be more sturdy than a piece of plastic. I saw a design on Thingiverse like that.