View Full Version : Making that Bullet Collator
I noticed on the first the AC prox switch, used with my Hornady factory AC motor, that it lit up for a fraction of a second each time a bullet fell, but it was sooo brief, and didn't effect anything....that I quit noticing.:) I'll have to look again.....on the newer ones. I'm not an electronic whiz, so I'll keep it simple unless you guys show me where it's important.......like TylerR admittedly did with the relay. ;)
I've about got the final collator set up and the smaller dedicated case collator, I once used for rifle, set up on my Pro 2000 over my homemade case feeder for pistol....so I hope I'm about done with making collators......4 printed and one modified Hornady should be a big plenty. Bench is getting crowded. When I get the mess cleaned up I'll add some pictures.
I converted the #14 spring/downtube adaptor to my H.M. case feeder which required a slip-on over a 9/16" tube. Should be about done.....let you know how it works.....
TylerR, would it be a lot of trouble to post a file for a spring adaptor #7 flush? If so I can print one at 100% infill and take it to my lathe. Just needing to connect to a #6 collator mount sensor body. Wouldn't need to be full diameter on the entrance. Thanks, M500.
TylerR
12-12-2021, 09:49 PM
TylerR, would it be a lot of trouble to post a file for a spring adaptor #7 flush? If so I can print one at 100% infill and take it to my lathe. Just needing to connect to a #6 collator mount sensor body. Wouldn't need to be full diameter on the entrance. Thanks, M500.
I am willing to modify whatever you want, but I am not sure what you are trying to do exactly. Any reason why the #8 would not work? what size spring are you using? What modification are you wanting to do with the lathe?
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The #8 would probably work, but I screwed up by not ordering that spring. I have a 1x9mm spring on the way for the the #7 adapter though. As you can see in the picture, the #7 adapter wont fit in the sensor body. If I printed it solid I could shorten it to fit. Plan is to use with .224 bullet die. Assumed the #7 would be the way to go for vmax style bullets.
TylerR
12-13-2021, 12:04 AM
293044
The #8 would probably work, but I screwed up by not ordering that spring. I have a 1x9mm spring on the way for the the #7 adapter though. As you can see in the picture, the #7 adapter wont fit in the sensor body. If I printed it solid I could shorten it to fit. Plan is to use with .224 bullet die. Assumed the #7 would be the way to go for vmax style bullets.
OK I got ya now. That spring would probably be perfectly fine with the #8 Flush adapter, but I will go ahead and make the #7. I may just do the 6 and 9 as well while I am at it.
That would be awesome. Thank you.
TylerR
12-13-2021, 01:04 PM
That would be awesome. Thank you.
Here it is.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Spring_Adapter_7.stl
I changed the naming conventions. The offset ones now have the _Offset suffix. No more Flush.
Here it is.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Spring_Adapter_7.stl
I changed the naming conventions. The offset one now have the _Offset suffix. No more Flush.
So am I the only one confused? Flush.....Offset is referring to flush to what.....offset to what?
TylerR
12-13-2021, 01:36 PM
So am I the only one confused? Flush.....Offset is referring to flush to what.....offset to what?
Flush is not going to be used anymore so ignore that. Offset refers to the drop hole being offset to the center axis. The offset adapters were designed a while back to make the feeding of small, shorter bullets more reliable.
This should help.
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sierra1911
12-13-2021, 02:09 PM
I think they may be, but that is a guess. Having the capacitor there is probably the best method. I will admit that I am curious about setting one up, although I have 3 collators, and it would require 3 more prox sensors, so I will most likely won't.
Also, I am not a big fan of having the spring full of bullets. If you have any slack in the spring it can cause issues. Cases are not as big of an issue.
Good point on not filling the spring with bullets. My first use for the collator will be my Lee APP so I'll attempt sensors at the top and bottom of the rigid tube.
My thought is to install jacks (probably small stereo audio jacks) in the control box for the sensors. That way I'll have the flexibility of using one or two sensors depending on the application - feeding cases or boolits to the Lee APP or boolits to my 650 or 1050.
When using a single sensor (in either the top or bottom location) that sensor would be plugged in per the current wiring diagram. When using two sensors, the bottom one would be plugged in per the existing wiring diagram and the top one into the latching wire. When the latching sensor is not plugged in, the latching wire would remain open and have no effect on the feeder's operation.
If you installed jacks for second sensors in your control boxes, you wouldn't have to buy 3 new sensors, just one to optionally install at the top of the drop tube string for some applications.
But I'm getting way ahead of myself here. I need to build a collator and then get a two-sensor system working and to do that I need a printer and its kit doesn't ship from across the pond until next year and then I need to build and test it!
Dale
sierra1911
12-13-2021, 02:40 PM
I noticed a difference between the photocell and proximity wiring diagrams in version bf_v1.4.x of the manual.
The photocell diagram places the speed controller immediately after the power supply and power switch so that the speed controller remains powered whenever the power switch is on. The proximity diagram places the speed controller after the sensor relay so that the speed controller is cycled on and off with the motor.
Is the difference intentional/needed? Would it be better to change the proximity diagram, swapping the speed controller and relay so that the speed controller remains powered whenever the power switch is on instead of being cycled on and off with the motor?
While both arrangements function, the proximity diagram appears to subject the electronics of the speed controller to thousands of unnecessary on/off cycles.
Dale
TylerR
12-13-2021, 03:14 PM
I noticed a difference between the photocell and proximity wiring diagrams in version bf_v1.4.x of the manual.
The photocell diagram places the speed controller immediately after the power supply and power switch so that the speed controller remains powered whenever the power switch is on. The proximity diagram places the speed controller after the sensor relay so that the speed controller is cycled on and off with the motor.
Is the difference intentional/needed? Would it be better to change the proximity diagram, swapping the speed controller and relay so that the speed controller remains powered whenever the power switch is on instead of being cycled on and off with the motor?
While both arrangements function, the proximity diagram appears to subject the electronics of the speed controller to thousands of unnecessary on/off cycles.
Dale
That is a very interesting observation, and I agree with your assessment. I am not sure how much of an issue it is in practicality, but I agree it should be changed. I will take a look at it when I get a chance.
TylerR
12-13-2021, 03:39 PM
This should work.
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BF556/Feeder/main/Images/Proximity%20Wiring%20Schematic.png
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/Images/Proximity%20Wiring%20Schematic.png
Thank you TylerR. Will be printing it shortly. I have a couple other questions/favors to ask, but I need to do some more testing before I trouble you with that. M500
r4ndy
12-14-2021, 09:19 PM
I have not had that personally, but my uneducated guess would have to point to the light sensor board.
Just checking in to confirm it was the light sensor. Weird thing is the sensor powered and you could hear the relay click but it wasn’t sending power out. Replaced and back in business.
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So I got my big (just right?) collator over my PC7 press, replacing the original TylerR rifle case collator.......and it works great, no surprise there, but now I had this older smaller collator with parts printed and set up to do cases. The idea was to use the big collator to feed rifle cases to the PCT and the smaller one to feed pistol bullet cases to my "other" RCBS Pro 2000 progressive with its home made case feeder. So I printed up the following large pistol case plate and clutch parts to do .45 ACP........using Zyltech Satin Blue.....blue is my color-coded .45 ACP color......bullet feeder die for .45 is that color too.
https://i.postimg.cc/y8WpgfzT/IMG-3957.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/GmN7kkLn/IMG_3958.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/W4k9ShzF/IMG_3961.jpg
So what's the problem? Darned if it doesn't work just as well to feed .357 Mag and .40 S&W.....so much for color coding.....;)
This should work.
Interesting Tyler......I'll have to try it out. I decided to compare the two diagrams to see what changed. Original on the right.
https://i.postimg.cc/MG5fgf53/Schematic-Lnew-Rold.png
TylerR
12-14-2021, 10:33 PM
Interesting Tyler......I'll have to try it out. I decided to compare the two diagrams to see what changed. Original on the right.
Yeah basically the relay just cycles the motor now instead of the speed controller as sierra1911 pointed out.
TylerR
12-14-2021, 10:39 PM
So I got my big (just right?) collator over my PC7 press, replacing the original TylerR rifle case collator.......and it works great, no surprise there, but now I had this older smaller collator with parts printed and set up to do cases. The idea was to use the big collator to feed rifle cases to the PCT and the smaller one to feed pistol bullet cases to my "other" RCBS Pro 2000 progressive with its home made case feeder. So I printed up the following large pistol case plate and clutch parts to do .45 ACP........using Zyltech Satin Blue.....blue is my color-coded .45 ACP color......bullet feeder die for .45 is that color too.
So what's the problem? Darned if it doesn't work just as well to feed .357 Mag and .40 S&W.....so much for color coding.....;)
Looks awesome as usual. Feeding pistol cases is by far the easiest to do.
MSUICEMAN
12-14-2021, 11:15 PM
do you think I can get the lee collator/casefeeder to work with this set of adapters? I'm going to print them out this weekend when I have a chance.
TylerR
12-14-2021, 11:30 PM
do you think I can get the lee collator/casefeeder to work with this set of adapters? I'm going to print them out this weekend when I have a chance.
I am not really familiar with the Lee collator. Which set of adapters are we talking about?
MSUICEMAN
12-14-2021, 11:32 PM
I am not really familiar with the Lee collator. Which set of adapters are we talking about?
oh, that was poorly described by myself. the Lee APP adapter system you designed. I have the lee collator "casefeeder" and the Lee APP press currently.
TylerR
12-14-2021, 11:43 PM
oh, that was poorly described by myself. the Lee APP adapter system you designed. I have the lee collator "casefeeder" and the Lee APP press currently.
I believe we are talking about this correct?
https://leeprecision.com/universal-case-feeder.html
That is a very good question. I am not sure I have ever seen anyone try to interface that with my system. I am sure there must be some way to do it. That said, most people print one of my collators to use with the APP system.
If you print this and install it....
https://i.postimg.cc/yd26dJkr/A.png Then add one of these (this one is for .357mag) https://i.postimg.cc/Nf5vKG11/357.png
Then print an adapter to allow a Lee 9/16 clear tube to drop in......
Then you can just get some 9/16" (OD) thinwall tubing, and cut a small, say 2" long piece, and drop it in instead of a long "Lee" tubing of the same size........then you can drop that 4-way into it, and add your 4 9/16" tubes that came with the 4-way. Simple......but not as good as one of TylerR's printed collators...........this is one case where one tube (with an electric collator) is better than 4 tubes. ;)
A few years ago, I had created a "semi" automatic case feeder for my Pro 2000 progressive that never had a case feeder made for it. Now the 3d printed collator TylerR designed finished the job....no more loading tubes manually for with Lee's shaker contraption.
I posted the Blue big case feeder plate for .45 and it works perfect for .45, but as I hinted, it does .40, and .357 equally well. The following video using .357 in the big plate shows how well! This is a prelim. feeding video so I'm not pushing the cases all the way into the press's shell plate....and here I'm pushing twice to unload it faster.
https://youtu.be/NgcCHE9S3_0
Works equally well on .40S&W, but I wondered about 9mm........so I decided to try that using the same large case plate.....danged if it doesn't work....video below:
https://youtu.be/ix_8YTF5YtA
TylerR
12-15-2021, 11:35 PM
A few years ago, I had created a "semi" automatic case feeder for my Pro 2000 progressive that never had a case feeder made for it. Now the 3d printed collator TylerR designed finished the job....no more loading tubes manually for with Lee's shaker contraption.
I posted the Blue big case feeder plate for .45 and it works perfect for .45, but as I hinted, it does .40, and .357 equally well. The following video using .357 in the big plate shows how well! This is a prelim. feeding video so I'm not pushing the cases all the way into the press's shell plate....and here I'm pushing twice to unload it faster.
Works equally well on .40S&W, but I wondered about 9mm........so I decided to try that using the same large case plate.....danged if it doesn't work....video below:
]
First off, I love watching videos of this stuff in action. Thank you for sharing.
I am a little surprised on the .357 cases, but it looks like it works great. Not sure if you can, but if you went with a little more angle on the feeder you might get less bunching of them at the drop hole.
So you fabricated that whole feed system? That is super creative man. And all the work you did with the clear tubes to make it all fit together like that. Very nice.
First off, I love watching videos of this stuff in action. Thank you for sharing.
So you fabricated that whole feed system? That is super creative man. And all the work you did with the clear tubes to make it all fit together like that. Very nice.
That was before I discovered 3d Printing....and RCBS wasn't into feeders yet.....so it was invent or do nothing. The clear thinwall tubing was made to telescope one inside the next smaller size, and on and on. Walls are 1/32" and tube sizes are in 1/16" increments. Therefore 5/8 OD sides into 9/16 into 1/2" into 7/16" into 3/8". I used PVC parts to make the white inlets and the black main tube. Steel and aluminum to make the slide and supports. And HDPE to make the articulated shuttle. Articulated because that was the ONLY way to push cases into shell plates.....on that press there is no straight shot....the Primer strips are in the way. You do what you have to do. ;) If I was going to do it over, there would be some 3d printing done for most of it.
Using Lee shakers and modified shakers, I could collate all pistol and rifle calibers I shoot......but now, I don't have to, thanks to the 3d printed collators.
Just for nostalgia's sake, here's a video of how I converted Lee's shaker to do .308 and .223. :) Even that would have been easier with a 3d printer.....
https://vimeo.com/365180897
MSUICEMAN
12-16-2021, 08:33 AM
the game plan is to eventually print and make your true casefeeder. but this will take some time and some fiddling I think, so in the meantime this is what I have. Though I'm contemplating adding a dillon 650/750 into the mix, and if that happens I will 100% be focused on a casefeeder and/or a bulletfeeder.
MSUICEMAN: You'll get there.....that's what winters are for in my area.....too cold to shoot a lot, so it's shop/fiddling time. 3D printing has made it so much more fun and efficient.....but obviously it's not totally required. The big bullet feeder in the videos above the new case collator is a Hornady converted to flip bullets. It works just as well as my 3d printed versions for my other presses.....but 3D printing is so much easier (and cheaper)....and I now use 3D printed feed dies even for it...better than Hornady's factory ones.
I also did a lot of work making the Lee APP work better.....then TylerR took that to a much higher plain, making his quick change system with 3D printed parts. The 3D printer is one awesome tool for people who want to improve their loading tools. I'd hate to have to go back to the old way....
Tom Myers
12-19-2021, 12:28 PM
TylerR,
First, i want to say that I stand in awe of your design and organization abilities.
That being said, I have been using openscad to design multitube adaptors that utilize your bullet feed die models. These work quite well and, as soon as I get a suitable persentation medium worked out, I will post the images here and the openscad and stl files on Thingverse.
Now I am looking at printing out your Bullet and Brass Collator models. Your PDF instruction sheet is quite clear and concise, however the Parts generator is giving me fits.
The plate generator works fine and the openscad file for plate generation also is straightforward and easy to understand..
Although I have downloaded and installed the latest Java updates and tried many configurations of the Parts generator, nothing seems to work for me.
The Parts generator file is located in the folder containing all the body parts and the image below shows my selection of variables. However, I can let the generatorl run for hours, and the Zip folder is still empty.
I must be stupidy overlooking something obvious, but, try as I might, I can't seem to get it right.
Any help or suggestions you can offer will be sincerely appreciated.
Enclosed is a screenshot of lthe Latest parts generator attempt.
(Click on image to expand)
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RedlegEd
12-19-2021, 01:44 PM
TylerR,
First, i want to say that I stand in awe of your design and organization abilities.
That being said, I have been using openscad to design multitube adaptors that utilize your bullet feed die models. These work quite well and, as soon as I get a suitable persentation medium worked out, I will post the images here and the openscad and stl files on Thingverse.
Now I am looking at printing out your Bullet and Brass Collator models. Your PDF instruction sheet is quite clear and concise, however the Parts generator is giving me fits.
The plate generator works fine and the openscad file for plate generation also is straightforward and easy to understand..
Although I have downloaded and installed the latest Java updates and tried many configurations of the Parts generator, nothing seems to work for me.
The Parts generator file is located in the folder containing all the body parts and the image below shows my selection of variables. However, I can let the generatorl run for hours, and the Zip folder is still empty.
I must be stupidy overlooking something obvious, but, try as I might, I can't seem to get it right.
Any help or suggestions you can offer will be sincerely appreciated.
Enclosed is a screenshot of lthe Latest parts generator attempt.
(Click on image to expand)
293273
Hi Tom,
Looking at the path in the generator, you are in the wrong folder. Try moving the Parts Generator.jar up one level. Here's how mine is set up and it works well. If you still have any issues, PM me.
Ed
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Tom Myers
12-19-2021, 02:26 PM
Hi Tom,
Looking at the path in the generator, you are in the wrong folder. Try moving the Parts Generator.jar up one level. Here's how mine is set up and it works well. If you still have any issues, PM me.
Ed
293278
Ed,
Thanks for your prompt imput.
Just like I thought, I was stupidly overlooking the obvious. Now that I look at it, It makes sense that the generator needs access to all of the parts folders, not just the parts in the Main Body folder.
Made the change, clicked the Start button and noted the time. Now just wait.
I'll post the results again when I hear the ding.
Thanks again.
TylerR
12-19-2021, 03:06 PM
Ed,
Thanks for your prompt imput.
Just like I thought, I was stupidly overlooking the obvious. Now that I look at it, It makes sense that the generator needs access to all of the parts folders, not just the parts in the Main Body folder.
Made the change, clicked the Start button and noted the time. Now just wait.
I'll post the results again when I hear the ding.
Thanks again.
Tom,
Have you downloaded the latest package from github? There was a bug in the generator where it would fail if any files were missing. The code was updated not too long ago to fix that.
Ed,
Just like I thought, I was stupidly overlooking the obvious. Now that I look at it, It makes sense that the generator needs access to all of the parts folders, not just the parts in the Main Body folder.
I did exactly the same thing.....moved the jar file from where the rest of the files are......took me several days to see it. ;)
Tom Myers
12-19-2021, 05:15 PM
TylerR,
Thanks for responding.
4 1/2 hours and still counting.
Approximately how long should it take?
The download date was October 16, this year.
I'll download the latest file and try again.
Tom Myers
12-19-2021, 05:35 PM
Wow,
downloaded the latest version and - Click, Beep. Instantaneous PDF - file with all parts listed and slicer settings for each part.
Thanks guys for your help
I just finished installing my Ender 3 printer in an Ender Enclosure (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097YM72L1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) so that should help eliminate my warping problem with large prints that cover most of the printing bed.
Gonna set up the Main Body tonight for the 2 days, 4 hour, 1minute print.
I'm having just so much fun!!:-P
TylerR
12-19-2021, 06:57 PM
Wow,
downloaded the latest version and - Click, Beep. Instantaneous PDF - file with all parts listed and slicer settings for each part.
Thanks guys for your help
I just finished installing my Ender 3 printer in an Ender Enclosure (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097YM72L1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) so that should help eliminate my warping problem with large prints that cover most of the printing bed.
Gonna set up the Main Body tonight for the 2 days, 4 hour, 1minute print.
I'm having just so much fun!!:-P
Very good to hear. Let us know how the print goes.
MSUICEMAN
12-21-2021, 02:10 PM
If you print this and install it....
https://i.postimg.cc/yd26dJkr/A.png Then add one of these (this one is for .357mag) https://i.postimg.cc/Nf5vKG11/357.png
Then print an adapter to allow a Lee 9/16 clear tube to drop in......
Then you can just get some 9/16" (OD) thinwall tubing, and cut a small, say 2" long piece, and drop it in instead of a long "Lee" tubing of the same size........then you can drop that 4-way into it, and add your 4 9/16" tubes that came with the 4-way. Simple......but not as good as one of TylerR's printed collators...........this is one case where one tube (with an electric collator) is better than 4 tubes. ;)
yeah, i'm kind of going down that path until i get a casefeeder/bulletfeeder printed out. i need to figure out a little better support (i think i'm going to use allthread, and center up the 4-way mounting bolt to Tyler's main support and support it that way. other than that, a few short adapter pieces of tubing (different diameters between brass adapters and the 4-way, depending on cartridge). we shall see. if the tube to tube epoxied adapter isn't working up to snuff, i'll jump into fusion 3d and design one (been a while since i did CAD work, but i'll bumble through it).
MSUICEMAN
12-21-2021, 04:02 PM
also, for those that are using Tyler's APP press slides and caliber adapters, do you find that you have to shim the main riser to get the proper height above the slider to pass brass through? or am I missing something?
TylerR
12-21-2021, 04:20 PM
also, for those that are using Tyler's APP press slides and caliber adapters, do you find that you have to shim the main riser to get the proper height above the slider to pass brass through? or am I missing something?
When assembling there needs to be a nut between the bracket and the frame. This helps to create enough tension so the bracket does not try to rotate.
293434
also, for those that are using Tyler's APP press slides and caliber adapters, do you find that you have to shim the main riser to get the proper height above the slider to pass brass through? or am I missing something?
You do have to have the proper sized slider shuttle underneath.....each adapter is created with one of Lee's sliders (shuttles) in mind....there are several. Usually you want the shuttle at least a little lower than the brass case. That way the next case above doesn't drop below the shuttle height and cause a hung slider/shuttle. At the same time, you don't want it to have to drop farther than you have to, to prevent side movement or tipping.
MSUICEMAN
12-21-2021, 08:27 PM
Ya. I had it set up with Lee stuff. Just trying to get it dialed in for Tyler's adapters. It doesn't seem like I would use as tall of a pusher on the slide with Tyler's version for 223.
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nhyrum
12-21-2021, 08:49 PM
This is completely untested, but here is a 9mm insert sized to the 40sw body. Should work in theory.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/7.%20Bullet%20Feed%20Dies/Feed_Die_357Sig_Insert.stlWell, finally got this printed. The ball bearings I got were too small to do what they do, so the bullets slide past. I might just try a standard 9mm die and see if I can get it to work.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
QUOTE=MSUICEMAN;5320824]Ya. I had it set up with Lee stuff. Just trying to get it dialed in for Tyler's adapters. It doesn't seem like I would use as tall of a pusher on the slide with Tyler's version for 223.[/QUOTE]
Nope......use the tallest one for .223 rifle and taller.
https://i.postimg.cc/CKGWQCp3/IMG-3968.jpg
and use the adapter that's with the shaped slot for the least trouble and clean drops.
And notice the black base shuttle designed by TylerR, below Lee's tall slider. That part helps too.
TylerR
12-21-2021, 11:42 PM
Well, finally got this printed. The ball bearings I got were too small to do what they do, so the bullets slide past. I might just try a standard 9mm die and see if I can get it to work.
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What size were the ball bearings?
nhyrum
12-21-2021, 11:48 PM
What size were the ball bearings?3.5mm
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MSUICEMAN
12-22-2021, 06:36 AM
QUOTE=MSUICEMAN;5320824]Ya. I had it set up with Lee stuff. Just trying to get it dialed in for Tyler's adapters. It doesn't seem like I would use as tall of a pusher on the slide with Tyler's version for 223.
Nope......use the tallest one for .223 rifle and taller.
https://i.postimg.cc/CKGWQCp3/IMG-3968.jpg
and use the adapter that's with the shaped slot for the least trouble and clean drops.
And notice the black base shuttle designed by TylerR, below Lee's tall slider. That part helps too.[/QUOTE]
Got the slider. Is the brass tube seated all the way down into the main post in your picture? I'll have to mess with mine more, but it seemed like to have it seated all the way down, I needed to go with the shorter slider. I'll take pics later.
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TylerR
12-22-2021, 09:48 AM
3.5mm
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
I was looking at the 9mm die more and I think it just might work.
.
Got the slider. Is the brass tube seated all the way down into the main post in your picture? I'll have to mess with mine more, but it seemed like to have it seated all the way down, I needed to go with the shorter slider. I'll take pics later.
Yes, fully seated and into the notch. Do you have the nut between the riser and Lee's casting that TylerR shows in his picture in post 5301? That raises it, the height of the nut. Would make a big difference.
MSUICEMAN
12-22-2021, 04:59 PM
Yeah, I guess I was delirious or something. One nut between main post and frame works, as does the correct slides. I did have to do some sanding to get the tubes to fit snuggly but not ridiculously tight. Made an adapter for the 4 tube collator, though I should brace it for additional support. All that will be moot shortly.....
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211222/01fb9501a0751b0410ad062b3abdd4e6.jpg
TylerR
12-22-2021, 05:13 PM
Yeah, I guess I was delirious or something. One nut between main post and frame works, as does the correct slides. I did have to do some sanding to get the tubes to fit snuggly but not ridiculously tight. Made an adapter for the 4 tube collator, though I should brace it for additional support. All that will be moot shortly.....
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211222/01fb9501a0751b0410ad062b3abdd4e6.jpg
What resolution are you printing at? The parts are designed around .12mm. If you used .2mm things will be a little tight.
Glad to see you taking the plunge with the collator. You will like it much better than the 4 barrel manual one.
Looking great! The fun is about to begin......
BTW, what plastic is that? Like the shine.
MSUICEMAN
12-22-2021, 06:50 PM
Yeah I think I did .2, maybe .16 I figured it was due to my resolution and nothing else. Some 320 grit and it's all good.
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MSUICEMAN
12-22-2021, 06:59 PM
Looking great! The fun is about to begin......
BTW, what plastic is that? Like the shine.It's creality TPLA which I'm assuming is tough PLA but can't find any documentation on their terrible website. It came with my latest printer. I do have to say it's much tougher and less brittle than standard PLA. Was going to use some PETG I have, but I will use that for some other stuff for this project. It does result in a glossy finish.
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TylerR
12-23-2021, 11:54 AM
Thought I would share my latest. Ever since I moved to the auto bullet feeder, and removed the powder check, it has been a bit of a pain to look in there. Finally worked out a solution. It inserts in to the hole for the powder check and can be swapped between presses in about 5 seconds.
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/808109576188198942/923600472185634836/IMG_1380.JPG?width=760&height=570
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/808109576188198942/923600469409017856/IMG_1381.JPG?width=427&height=570
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/808109576188198942/923600471212589066/IMG_1379.JPG?width=760&height=570
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/808109576188198942/923600470415663144/IMG_1378.JPG?width=760&height=570
MSUICEMAN
12-23-2021, 12:34 PM
Nice! I rednecked in a wireless camera to look into my charge station, and have my cell phone at eye level on my bench via mag mount. Connects to the camera via direct wifi.
Yours is a much better and cleaner integration.
5.5hrs left in the main body print. So far so good.
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TylerR
12-23-2021, 02:35 PM
Nice! I rednecked in a wireless camera to look into my charge station, and have my cell phone at eye level on my bench via mag mount. Connects to the camera via direct wifi.
Yours is a much better and cleaner integration.
5.5hrs left in the main body print. So far so good.
Thanks! I just got crazy and spliced the camera wire to get rid of all the excess. Looks like I managed not to screw it up. 16 feet of wire was a bit annoying.
MSUICEMAN
12-23-2021, 08:23 PM
47 hour success. Went with the JGY 370 as it's readily available. Printed really well. Now for the other parts. Starting with the flipper. There is one post mount part that you say doesn't need supports which I'm not sure my printer can handle without supports. I probably am going to put tree supports on it.
because the pic used flash, it doesn't do it justice at all. its a pretty darn clean print. was happy when it was done, 47 hours of everything working right, no power outages, kids somehow bumping it, me doing random Polish things causing issues....
The flipper, ramp, and drop hole adapter are tomorrows project.
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211224/9e86d6e1494774cc458f8a156882dc0d.jpg
Nothing wrong with that print! I hear you about the flash. I usually get the best pictures ignoring the camera wanting the flash.
Master Sergeant
12-25-2021, 04:07 PM
It's been quite a few months since I printed my bullet feeder. Still works great. Have loaded a few thousands of 223, 45acp, 38spl, and 9x19. Awesome project y'all put together. Really enjoyed making and using the bullet feeder. Thank you.
Just ordered another 52JE51. Want to setup another press with a bullet feeder as well as case feeder, this time. Used the 52JE51 on last build and it has been great. Plenty strong even with a couple handfuls of 230gr 45acp's thrown in the hopper. I had caught the tail end of the Ammo Mike feeder build, before it disappeared from the www, and used one of the weaker motors. It lacked torque and struggled. The 52JE51 doesn't have any problem with torque but is $80 shipped. Would like to print at least three more bullet/brass feeders but try to keep the cost down. Want to outfit my Loadmaster and Pro 4000 just for the fun of it.
With all that said. What experience have some of you had with the other motors on the list?
Anyone have or have knowledge of any stl's supporting the Pro 4000 (Auto Breechlock Pro)?
MSUICEMAN
12-25-2021, 04:22 PM
I'll let ya know in about a week for the jgy370. Cheap motor, but I hope with the gear reduction torque isn't an issue.
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TylerR
12-25-2021, 08:55 PM
It's been quite a few months since I printed my bullet feeder. Still works great. Have loaded a few thousands of 223, 45acp, 38spl, and 9x19. Awesome project y'all put together. Really enjoyed making and using the bullet feeder. Thank you.
Just ordered another 52JE51. Want to setup another press with a bullet feeder as well as case feeder, this time. Used the 52JE51 on last build and it has been great. Plenty strong even with a couple handfuls of 230gr 45acp's thrown in the hopper. I had caught the tail end of the Ammo Mike feeder build, before it disappeared from the www, and used one of the weaker motors. It lacked torque and struggled. The 52JE51 doesn't have any problem with torque but is $80 shipped. Would like to print at least three more bullet/brass feeders but try to keep the cost down. Want to outfit my Loadmaster and Pro 4000 just for the fun of it.
With all that said. What experience have some of you had with the other motors on the list?
Anyone have or have knowledge of any stl's supporting the Pro 4000 (Auto Breechlock Pro)?
This is the motor I have been recommending for anyone trying to save some cash.
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
MSUICEMAN
12-25-2021, 09:04 PM
Crap, I didn't see that. Well, we shall see if a 6rpm JGY370 works well. Or I'll have to make an adapter for this one.
Had my first failed print. Was doing mounting post and post mount base and for whatever reason it stopped 88% done. Sad. Think my raspberry pi had a low voltage warning and I was printing it through octopi rather than on card. Oh well. Won't do that again. Will only print from SD card mounted in printer.
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Crap, I didn't see that. Well, we shall see if a 6rpm JGY370 works well. Or I'll have to make an adapter for this one.
Had my first failed print. Was doing mounting post and post mount base and for whatever reason it stopped 88% done. Sad. Think my raspberry pi had a low voltage warning and I was printing it through octopi rather than on card. Oh well. Won't do that again. Will only print from SD card mounted in printer.
It didn't give you a way to "continue" the print after refeeding the media even? Sometimes mine stops (pauses) but I can continue it if I pull the plastic and refeed. I heard the reason for it is the media sensor gets too far away from the media...maybe a bend in the incoming? I don't even use octopi, so maybe it's not octopi causing it.
Been meaning to take the sensor apart to see why.......doesn't happen often, but when it does it's a royal pain.
Didn't happen at all for the first year.....maybe it needs cleaned out inside the sensor's box.
TylerR
12-26-2021, 10:58 AM
Crap, I didn't see that. Well, we shall see if a 6rpm JGY370 works well. Or I'll have to make an adapter for this one.
Had my first failed print. Was doing mounting post and post mount base and for whatever reason it stopped 88% done. Sad. Think my raspberry pi had a low voltage warning and I was printing it through octopi rather than on card. Oh well. Won't do that again. Will only print from SD card mounted in printer.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
I had a print do that once. It was about an 18 hour print, and it just stopped for no reason I could see. I was using Octoprint and it appeared it disconnected from the printer best I could tell. My entire setup is on a battery backup so I know it was not a power issue.
akonibai
12-27-2021, 07:08 AM
@TylerR do you happen to have the Switch_Drop_Tube_14mm.stl ? it seems the Switch_Drop_Tube_13mm is too tight for the 45acp BulletFeed die
TylerR
12-27-2021, 10:21 AM
@TylerR do you happen to have the Switch_Drop_Tube_14mm.stl ? it seems the Switch_Drop_Tube_13mm is too tight for the 45acp BulletFeed die
i do not. Those were a contribution. That said, the diameter of the interface to the feed die is the same for all the drop tubes. 16.56mm. I just measured the "Switch_Drop_Tube_13mm" and confirmed.
akonibai
12-27-2021, 10:33 AM
i do not. Those were a contribution. That said, the diameter of the interface to the feed die is the same for all the drop tubes. 16.56mm. I just measured the "Switch_Drop_Tube_13mm" and confirmed.
yes your right, I just finished printing the 45acp bullet die body and it the print is not as strong as 9mm and 40S&W particullarly where the ball bearings slot area.
Thanks Tyler
TylerR
12-27-2021, 10:50 AM
yes your right, I just finished printing the 45acp bullet die body and it the print is not as strong as 9mm and 40S&W particullarly where the ball bearings slot area.
Thanks Tyler
That is true. The tolerances are very close there. That issue is exactly why I went from 4mm bb's to 3.5mm. To gain a little space for that die.
Luckily, once you get it threaded in to the tool head it becomes a non issue.
MSUICEMAN
12-27-2021, 10:51 PM
quick question during assembly. mounting the drop tube adapter and some other things, there are tiny holes in the print. did you drill them out to accommodate a 3mm machine screw, or use a self tapping screw, or some other solution? also, a 3mm nut doesn't get trapped in the clutch plate, has enough excess room to spin. could JB weld it in I suppose.
quick question during assembly. mounting the drop tube adapter and some other things, there are tiny holes in the print. did you drill them out to accommodate a 3mm machine screw, or use a self tapping screw, or some other solution? also, a 3mm nut doesn't get trapped in the clutch plate, has enough excess room to spin. could JB weld it in I suppose.
Or you can use 6-32 flat head screws and 6-32 Nyloc nuts. They work great.....no epoxy needed or wanted. You might check the manual.....TylerR most likely has those specified, maybe the little holes in the drop tube out of the collator too, but I used M2 machine screws for those, just screwed them in as if they were self tapping......they worked great for me.
For this project, it's a good idea to get an SAE assortment AND a metric assortment. ;) So far I've used M2s, M3s, M4s, 6-32, 8-32, and even 10-32's, for the little hardware. SAE hardware for bigger needs, being easier to find locally.
TylerR
12-28-2021, 10:26 AM
quick question during assembly. mounting the drop tube adapter and some other things, there are tiny holes in the print. did you drill them out to accommodate a 3mm machine screw, or use a self tapping screw, or some other solution? also, a 3mm nut doesn't get trapped in the clutch plate, has enough excess room to spin. could JB weld it in I suppose.
I use #2 x 1/4" sheet metal screws mostly for that stuff. The clutch plates are designed around #6 x 1/2", not 3mm.
Ok, I received an Ender 3 pro for Christmas & going to try & make this. Being new to this I have a question regarding walls. Does the "4" here represent the wall line count? If not what is it?
Thanks.293793
TylerR
12-29-2021, 10:50 AM
Ok, I received an Ender 3 pro for Christmas & going to try & make this. Being new to this I have a question regarding walls. Does the "4" here represent the wall line count? If not what is it?
Thanks.293793
Yes. It assumes walls are .8mm thick.
MSUICEMAN
12-29-2021, 10:53 AM
Ok, I received an Ender 3 pro for Christmas & going to try & make this. Being new to this I have a question regarding walls. Does the "4" here represent the wall line count? If not what is it?
Thanks.293793My recommendation would be to make sure you got your printer dialed in before doing this. The main body is about a 48 hour print, and it would be painful to scrap them.
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Yes. It assumes walls are .8mm thick.
Here's what I see in Cura. Not making sense to me. It's showing a wall thickness of .8mm but only a wall line count of 2. The layer thickness is set at .2mm. I truly appreciate all your efforts you put into this.
293803
My recommendation would be to make sure you got your printer dialed in before doing this. The main body is about a 48 hour print, and it would be painful to scrap them.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
I'm printing the smaller parts first. That snip was just to try to understand the walls. So far I've been very pleased with the initial prints. I'll post some pics later.
TylerR
12-29-2021, 05:11 PM
Here's what I see in Cura. Not making sense to me. It's showing a wall thickness of .8mm but only a wall line count of 2. The layer thickness is set at .2mm. I truly appreciate all your efforts you put into this.
293803
You just need to change the 2 to a 4 and then slice.
MSUICEMAN
12-29-2021, 08:42 PM
nearly done.... amazon is out of that motor speed controller, so..... think this one would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MK1SKRT/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_333?psc=1&pd_rd_plhdr=t&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0SkMxQVZYUDc3RDUmZ W5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMzU1NjNNVDBBOURaODRaR0omZW5jcnl wdGVkQWRJZD1BMDY4NzU2ODlQMlRKNUJRMFQ0RyZ3aWRnZXROY W1lPXNkX29uc2l0ZV9kZXNrdG9wJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGl yZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
i'm definitely not super well versed with electronics.
TylerR
12-29-2021, 09:05 PM
nearly done.... amazon is out of that motor speed controller, so..... think this one would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MK1SKRT/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_333?psc=1&pd_rd_plhdr=t&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0SkMxQVZYUDc3RDUmZ W5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMzU1NjNNVDBBOURaODRaR0omZW5jcnl wdGVkQWRJZD1BMDY4NzU2ODlQMlRKNUJRMFQ0RyZ3aWRnZXROY W1lPXNkX29uc2l0ZV9kZXNrdG9wJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGl yZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
i'm definitely not super well versed with electronics.
Yes sir, good to go.
Good morning so far printing. I do have one issue. I tried to download the "Pistol_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Small#5.stl" form github.com. All the other files I have downloaded appear at the bottom left corner of my screen. This one appears this way. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
293814
MSUICEMAN
12-30-2021, 12:04 PM
Right click on the link for the file, select save link or target as (depending on browser)
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Right click on the link for the file, select save link or target as (depending on browser)
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Thank you! Worked like a charm.
Scratch that. Cura won't open the file.
293818
MSUICEMAN
12-30-2021, 01:32 PM
Hmmm. I've done that without issue quite a bit. What browser are you using?
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Chrome. I'll try Firefox. One thing I noticed was the file size being only 166 kb.
No go in Firefox either.
Tom Myers
12-30-2021, 01:52 PM
Chrome. I'll try Firefox. One thing I noticed was the file size being only 166 kb.
Be sure to click on "Select All" then "Save Page As".
TylerR
12-30-2021, 01:55 PM
This is a github issue. It has been discussed quite a few times here. When you click on the Download button and it opens the stl as a text file, you can just do a right click - Save As from there and you are good to go.
Best thing to do is to download the entire package. Then access the files on your hard drive.
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/748652796513091659/925977848311865364/unknown.png?width=1329&height=612
I used the plate generator with these settings. I heard the ding that it was finished & am able to preview the plate. My problem is I have no idea where to find the stl file.
293820
TylerR
12-30-2021, 02:31 PM
I used the plate generator with these settings. I heard the ding that it was finished & am able to preview the plate. My problem is I have no idea where to find the stl file.
293820
The plate generator creates the file in the same directory that the Parts Generator.jar is in. so right in the root.
Thank you TylerR. I downloaded all into a zip file as you suggested. Cura was able to then slice it. Believe it or not I did a fair amount of searching & reading prior to posting about my issue. Here's my progress so far.
293821
TylerR
12-30-2021, 02:43 PM
Thank you TylerR. I downloaded all into a zip file as you suggested. Cura was able to then slice it. Believe it or not I did a fair amount of searching & reading prior to posting about my issue. Here's my progress so far.
293821
Your attachments are not coming through for me.
Your attachments are not coming through for me.
That's weird. I click on them & they open. I'll try again.293825
Ok, last question for the day. I assume I should rotate square base mount & post mount so that the larger flat ends are down prior to slicing. When I opened those 2 stl's in Cura the orientation looked to be upside down. The rounded end of the square base mount was shown to be at the bottom. The post mount I also considered to be upside down as the much smaller end was on the bottom.
TylerR
12-30-2021, 06:13 PM
Ok, last question for the day. I assume I should rotate square base mount & post mount so that the larger flat ends are down prior to slicing. When I opened those 2 stl's in Cura the orientation looked to be upside down. The rounded end of the square base mount was shown to be at the bottom. The post mount I also considered to be upside down as the much smaller end was on the bottom.
They should be oriented just as shown in the manual.
TonyH
12-30-2021, 08:40 PM
Hello All,
New to the forum and very interested in this particular thread and in wanting to make a bullet case collator. I've been reading through the very extensive posts with interest...and have downloaded all the files at Github. I have a a couple of 3D printers and have some experience with them, so not a complete newbie from that aspect, but have a question for those of you that use a Mac....I have Openscad loaded on my Mac, but when using the Parts Generator (collateral plate generator tab), I can't set the path to Openscad in the Applications folder. The Openscad app is greyed out and cannot be selected. Anyone have a fix to this issue?
TylerR
12-30-2021, 10:34 PM
Hello All,
New to the forum and very interested in this particular thread and in wanting to make a bullet case collator. I've been reading through the very extensive posts with interest...and have downloaded all the files at Github. I have a a couple of 3D printers and have some experience with them, so not a complete newbie from that aspect, but have a question for those of you that use a Mac....I have Openscad loaded on my Mac, but when using the Parts Generator (collateral plate generator tab), I can't set the path to Openscad in the Applications folder. The Openscad app is greyed out and cannot be selected. Anyone have a fix to this issue?
The short answer is that there are issues with it on a mac. I would recommend opening the plate generator directly in openscad. The code is well commented as far as all the parameters go.
TonyH
12-30-2021, 11:49 PM
ok, ty. I took a quick look at the code in Openscad and will work with it as time allows. It is well commented as you stated.
45acp
12-31-2021, 02:22 PM
Hi.
More and more parts are coming in from Aliexpress and i´m getting ready to put it all together.
But,,, i´m a complete noob around electronics (but i can read and understand schematics) and i wonder if you can point me to a 2A SSR from Aliexpress?
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20211231102148&isPremium=y&SearchText=2a+ssr
TylerR
12-31-2021, 03:28 PM
Hi.
More and more parts are coming in from Aliexpress and i´m getting ready to put it all together.
But,,, i´m a complete noob around electronics (but i can read and understand schematics) and i wonder if you can point me to a 2A SSR from Aliexpress?
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20211231102148&isPremium=y&SearchText=2a+ssr
I am not sure on Ali. This is the one I use on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B888WVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
45acp
12-31-2021, 05:22 PM
I am not sure on Ali. This is the one I use on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B888WVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks!
Maybe i have to go for that one. I was trying to avoid import fees etc ( i can schoose EU warehouse on Ali).
Happy New Year to all. Looking to finalize my purchases for to complete this project. Is there any reason this proximity sensor wouldn't work? The only difference I can see is the sensing distance is 8mm as opposed to 14mm in the manual. The description states that it is a normally open but all the reviews state that it is NC. It's also 1/6 the cost & it's Amazon prime not a 3rd party vendor like the other one.
https://www.amazon.com/InduSKY-Inductive-Proximity-Detecting-Distance/dp/B0872Y3C7D/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
TylerR
01-02-2022, 11:35 AM
Happy New to all. Looking to finalize my purchases for to complete this project. Is there any reason this proximity sensor wouldn't work? The only difference I can see is the sensing distance is 8mm as opposed to 14mm in the manual. The description states that it is a normally open but all the reviews state that it is NC. It's also 1/6 the cost & it's Amazon prime not a 3rd party vendor like the other one.
https://www.amazon.com/InduSKY-Inductive-Proximity-Detecting-Distance/dp/B0872Y3C7D/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
This question comes up a lot. I own one of the cheaper 8mm sensors. The one I have is unreliable. It is this one here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The listed one can be found cheaper, but sometimes it is coming from China.
https://www.newegg.com/autonics-prd18-14dn2-test-equipment/p/2YK-03AS-000H2
This question comes up a lot. I own one of the cheaper 8mm sensors. The one I have is unreliable. It is this one here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The listed one can be found cheaper, but sometimes it is coming from China.
https://www.newegg.com/autonics-prd18-14dn2-test-equipment/p/2YK-03AS-000H2
Those prices are a lot more reasonable. I'll be the g.p.......I ordered one to have on hand and try out. I did NOT order it from New Egg.....click their Chinese source on the page and you'll see why......The Ebay Chinese source has a much better track record.
Speaking of records, for the record I have only used the 8mm cheapies TylerR said was unreliable.....thankfully, for me they have been reliable.....except for the one I fried.....don't ask....stupidity will suffice.;) That said, I've been wanting to try one of the shorties TylerR uses......so I will.
One difference may be that TylerR's 3d printed holder is closed and maybe needs the extra range, the one I've been using is open with the sensor touching the cases as they fall. That said, I do like the closed design....a little cleaner....but mine works great so far....and if it ain't broke I leave it alone.:)
TylerR
01-03-2022, 12:57 PM
Those prices are a lot more reasonable. I'll be the g.p.......I ordered one to have on hand and try out. I did NOT order it from New Egg.....click their Chinese source on the page and you'll see why......The Ebay Chinese source has a much better track record.
Speaking of records, for the record I have only used the 8mm cheapies TylerR said was unreliable.....thankfully, for me they have been reliable.....except for the one I fried.....don't ask....stupidity will suffice.;) That said, I've been wanting to try one of the shorties TylerR uses......so I will.
One difference may be that TylerR's 3d printed holder is closed and maybe needs the extra range, the one I've been using is open with the sensor touching the cases as they fall. That said, I do like the closed design....a little cleaner....but mine works great so far....and if it ain't broke I leave it alone.:)
That could very well be the case, but probably just the distance and not the actual material. There is a 2mm gap from the sensor to the bullet/case. Which is one of the problems with these sensors, the distance ratings are very optimistic.
That could very well be the case, but probably just the distance and not the actual material. There is a 2mm gap from the sensor to the bullet/case. Which is one of the problems with these sensors, the distance ratings are very optimistic.
Exactly....distance. Distance ratings are for iron/steel and we are working with brass. I feel lucky brass even works. Looking forward to comparing the two sensors. I may have to redesign my Tee that I use to use the shorter sensor, or figure out a way to use your tee with a minimal drop tube someway up there under the collator ;).......with the seven station press and the 7' ceiling I don't have the room for tall drop tubes. I'll figure something out. The china source means waiting for Feb. 1st., but I'm in no hurry. Should be fun.
45acp
01-04-2022, 07:21 AM
@GWS...
I really like your design for the proximity sensor and i want to use it bfor the bullet feeder. I will use a spring for the bullets, but i don´t want the hole spring filled with bullets all the time and therefor i need to attach the sensor to the bullet feed die insert.
Is there an adapter for this connection available? Maybe i just missing it?
TIA
MSUICEMAN
01-04-2022, 08:26 AM
I'm pretty sure Tyler's design has an adapter for lower (either at the bullet die or lee app press) that houses the sensor. The alt tubes are the ones for at the feeder (for brass).
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45acp
01-04-2022, 09:01 AM
I'm pretty sure Tyler's design has an adapter for lower (either at the bullet die or lee app press) that houses the sensor. The alt tubes are the ones for at the feeder (for brass).
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"Spring_Drop_Tube_Large" seems to be the one i´m looking for. Thanks!
TylerR
01-04-2022, 09:41 AM
"Spring_Drop_Tube_Large" seems to be the one i´m looking for. Thanks!
If you wanted the sensor up by the collator, similar to GWS's design, you would use the "Drop_Tube_Alt_13mm" up top and then "Spring_Drop_Tube_Large" on the feed die.
If you are looking for the sensor to be at the feed die, then you would be using the standard drop tubes.
akonibai
01-04-2022, 10:52 AM
Crap, I didn't see that. Well, we shall see if a 6rpm JGY370 works well. Or I'll have to make an adapter for this one.
Had my first failed print. Was doing mounting post and post mount base and for whatever reason it stopped 88% done. Sad. Think my raspberry pi had a low voltage warning and I was printing it through octopi rather than on card. Oh well. Won't do that again. Will only print from SD card mounted in printer.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
how did the 6rpm JGY370 motor perform? do you still need variable controller?
TylerR
01-04-2022, 05:38 PM
Just saw that these came in stock. A bit cheaper then other one on amazon and free shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083L972RC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P01MBCIIZ5PQ&psc=1
@GWS...
I really like your design for the proximity sensor and i want to use it for the bullet feeder. I will use a spring for the bullets, but i don´t want the whole spring filled with bullets all the time and therefor i need to attach the sensor to the bullet feed die insert.
Is there an adapter for this connection available? Maybe i just missing it?
TIA
My spring tubes came from Hornady's pistol bullet feeder (which I still use but modified to flip bullets and use TylerR's feed dies.) Those springs are heavy duty and tightly wound, made to be filled with bullets.....Also all collators at that time, if they even had switches, mounted them topside outside the collators........that was then. Now with the very thin and floppy springs people buy now, especially the Chinese springs, long downtubes into the feed dies and switches mounted just above have become more common. TylerR's system is an example of one that works well, but I'm committed to my earlier topside design. Again, it works....I won't mess with it. That said, I'm still intrigued with Tyler's "stack"....still will try one on one of my feeders.
If you want to mount the sensor switch in that fashion, and keep the spring mostly empty, do go with Tyler's system and parts. There's a video on Tyler's download for the prox sensor.....watch it for sure.
I've wanted to try out his cool stacked parts, but I needed to order the short more sensitive switch......and I need to reprint his Tee....the first try at printing it was less than desirable, so make sure you use the settings he does on your 3d printer. I will try again when the Chinese switch makes it to New Mexico. ;)
Just saw that these came in stock. A bit cheaper then other one on amazon and free shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083L972RC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P01MBCIIZ5PQ&psc=1
That's not too bad......2 days too late for me.....waiting for the China boat. :)
MSUICEMAN
01-04-2022, 11:45 PM
how did the 6rpm JGY370 motor perform? do you still need variable controller?I am still waiting on screws of all things, but in teats it seems up to the challenge. I need to check it's actual RPM. Seems faster than 6rpm to me.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
That's not too bad......2 days too late for me.....waiting for the China boat. :)
Yours may get here first. That one from Amazon states expected delivery between 2/1-2/23 :)
I'm gonna bite the bullet & buy the more $$$ from Amazon as I don't think I can wait. Main body has been printing for 44 hours & is at 97%. I think I've printed everything else but the spring adapters. Waiting for those to show so I get the thread direction correct.
MSUICEMAN
01-05-2022, 06:36 PM
I didn't see it (maybe I missed it). But what's the suggested spring.
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45acp
01-06-2022, 04:30 AM
I didn't see it (maybe I missed it). But what's the suggested spring.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
I got these. Seems sturdy enough. But i haven´t seen them in action yet, maybe they aren´t.
Maybe someone else have used those and can give some feedback?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4d4La KpI
TylerR
01-06-2022, 09:05 AM
I got these. Seems sturdy enough. But i haven´t seen them in action yet, maybe they aren´t.
Maybe someone else have used those and can give some feedback?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4d4La KpI
Those are the good ones. Higher quality then some of the name brand stuff I ended up buying.
MSUICEMAN
01-06-2022, 09:09 AM
I got the DAA Large one. Maybe I shouldn't have? The spring for the flipper arm, any recommended size or just what would fit? I still need to get them
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TylerR
01-06-2022, 11:38 AM
I got the DAA Large one. Maybe I shouldn't have? The spring for the flipper arm, any recommended size or just what would fit? I still need to get them
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
It will work fine. flipper arm spring anything you can find that fits in there. Even a pen spring will work. Having a assorted pack of compression springs is helpful.
TylerR
01-06-2022, 04:09 PM
A new item of note. Someone requested the ability to handle larger magnum brass such as 45/70. There are now drop tubes and spring adapters to handle up to 16mm (15.6mm to be precise). The new stuff is on github.
it is designed to match up with the 18mm spring available here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32803936381.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148 356.17.12dd7ff3WFo2qV
There have been a fair number of other small changes, so if you are looking to print anything I would suggest downloading the latest.
r4ndy
01-07-2022, 07:42 PM
For those using light sensor, if you are using the Emusky one from Amazon I am curious how they are holding up. I have gone through three already between the bullet and case feeders. I thought it might be because I wired positive through the relay, but I rewired after the first one fried and two more went kaput. All doing the same thing; start working intermittently the you can hear the relay clicking on/off but circuit not completing to send power/ground.
I have an old ammomike build with a larger one Amazon doesn’t stock at the moment and it is still going strong. The other two I have made for friends are using another brand also not available ATM and they are still running.
Curious what model others are using if they are holding up.
Also wondering if heat may be an issue as the box is stuffed with two motor boards, switches and sensor boards.
A new item of note. Someone requested the ability to handle larger magnum brass such as 45/70. There are now drop tubes and spring adapters to handle up to 16mm (15.6mm to be precise). The new stuff is on github.
it is designed to match up with the 18mm spring available here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32803936381.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148 356.17.12dd7ff3WFo2qV
There have been a fair number of other small changes, so if you are looking to print anything I would suggest downloading the latest.
TylerR continues to be very dedicated to his project! I'm done with acquiring new caliber rifles....too darn old to be multiplying the guns in my hold. But you younger guys are lucky to have TylerR who reacts to the needs of those building 3d collators and such.....we don't find that even in the commercial collator products.
I've been meaning to try out TylerR's proximity switch parts, where he has downtubes inserted inside for about any caliber.....I already attempted to print a tee months ago, but the print was a disaster. Finally two days ago, I told TylerR about the fiasco, and he helped me realize that the part was printed upside down, and so was trying to print some of it in mid air! Well....that made me realize that you have to check the .stl you want to print, very careful like.....if it is upside down in the .stl it will print upside down.....so if you want to print the excellent Prox Tee of TylerR's flip the .stl model 180 degrees or you will experience what I did.
I just finished printing the four parts today (correctly) and they are great. Picture below comparing them to my own Prox Tee, and was pleased to find that, put together, the parts aren't any longer than mine (mine is the blue one on the right)
https://i.postimg.cc/0NG6jJQR/IMG_3972.jpg
Some have been confused about whether to use my files or TylerR's.....as you can see there isn't a lot of difference, excepting that I use one Tee and only one Tee insert required for the tiny .223 caliber size. Testing, I found that all the bigger calibers worked fine without changing inserts, so being the lazy soul I am, I didn't make variable sized inserts separate as we have with TylerR's downtube inserts.....which do work great, both as die mounted downtubes or using the "alternate" downtubes, to be mounted just under the collator, allowing springs to fill with bullets and cases. My system was designed only to be used under the collators allowing spring tubes and clear tubing to fill up before turning off. I have never had problems with my springs full of bullets....it's a matter of how stout of a spring it is and mine are plenty stout. Hope that clears up the questions. Below is a picture of my Tee and it's only insert for .223.
https://i.postimg.cc/nc6M119f/GWS-prox-parts.png
I also thought I'd share one more little optional part for case collators: I don't plan to ever change the collators I built for cases to collate bullets .... I mean, I have bullet collators already. So I wanted a way to fill the bullet drop hole in the collator base, a little more unobtrusively, by printing one part to screw in, in place of the plugs screwed into another part.....so requiring one print not two. Picture below is what I designed and printed. Just a simple print anyone is welcome to use. Maybe Tyler will add it, if not I'll post it here.
https://i.postimg.cc/ZqzBJLJx/Drop_Hole_Plug_thin_simplied..png
TylerR
01-08-2022, 05:42 PM
TylerR continues to be very dedicated to his project! I'm done with acquiring new caliber rifles....too darn old to be multiplying the guns in my hold. But you younger guys are lucky to have TylerR who reacts to the needs of those building 3d collators and such.....we don't find that even in the commercial collator products.
I've been meaning to try out TylerR's proximity switch parts, where he has downtubes inserted inside for about any caliber.....I already attempted to print a tee months ago, but the print was a disaster. Finally two days ago, I told TylerR about the fiasco, and he helped me realize that the part was printed upside down, and so was trying to print some of it in mid air! Well....that made me realize that you have to check the .stl you want to print, very careful like.....if it is upside down in the .stl it will print upside down.....so if you want to print the excellent Prox Tee of TylerR's flip the .stl model 180 degrees or you will experience what I did.
I just finished printing the four parts today (correctly) and they are great. Picture below comparing them to my own Prox Tee, and was pleased to find that, put together, the parts aren't any longer than mine (mine is the blue one on the right)
Some have been confused about whether to use my files or TylerR's.....as you can see there isn't a lot of difference, excepting that I use one Tee and only one Tee insert required for the tiny .223 caliber size. Testing, I found that all the bigger calibers worked fine without changing inserts, so being the lazy soul I am, I didn't make variable sized inserts separate as we have with TylerR's downtube inserts.....which do work great, both as die mounted downtubes or using the "alternate" downtubes, to be mounted just under the collator, allowing springs to fill with bullets and cases. My system was designed only to be used under the collators allowing spring tubes and clear tubing to fill up before turning off. I have never had problems with my springs full of bullets....it's a matter of how stout of a spring it is and mine are plenty stout. Hope that clears up the questions. Below is a picture of my Tee and it's only insert for .223.
I also thought I'd share one more little optional part for case collators: I don't plan to ever change the collators I built for cases to collate bullets .... I mean, I have bullet collators already. So I wanted a way to fill the bullet drop hole in the collator base, a little more unobtrusively, by printing one part to screw in, in place of the plugs screwed into another part.....so requiring one print not two. Picture below is what I designed and printed. Just a simple print anyone is welcome to use. Maybe Tyler will add it, if not I'll post it here.
Just to be clear for everyone here, I stole GWS's concept of a top mounted drop tube. His was the original. Oh and the entire idea of a proximity sensor as well. With his permission of course :)
Parts look great as always GWS. I will take you up on your offer and add the dedicated drop hole plug to the project.
Just to be clear for everyone here, I stole GWS's concept of a top mounted drop tube. His was the original. Oh and the entire idea of a proximity sensor as well. With his permission of course :)
Parts look great as always GWS. I will take you up on your offer and add the dedicated drop hole plug to the project.
I can surely appreciate all the wisdom and skill you have. So I come up with a little idea, TylerR perfects and expands it.....that's how the synergy seems to go. But nothing compared to all the collator work you've done.
BTW, I've finally got my electrics where I want them.....possible only with your idea to use a relay. I didn't even know what they were being electronic challenged. Anyway here's a few pictures to illustrate the progress.
https://i.postimg.cc/SxDz6kx5/IMG-3973.jpg
In the beginning: AmmoMikes little gem with a tiny electric box and a combo on/off speed control...no relay...burned out 2 switches.
https://i.postimg.cc/X7K5vwSn/IMG-3974.jpg
Next, same little green box on the left...but only on/off. Larger box on the righbelow the motor, holds a relay and a bigger, better speed control....works fine but......more to improve....
https://i.postimg.cc/021mxV4t/IMG-3978.jpg
Finally a better designed box with relay, nice rocker arm switch and the same speed control used in #2, all together. Speed control is supported on legs inside the box. The box is mounted to unused holes in the base bottom using a standoff part mating those base holes with the holes on the speed control board.
Oh, btw, the little thin collator outlet hole plug is seen in the top right of that last picture,(not screwed in yet....maybe I shoulda beveled the holes for flat heads, awe pan heads will work fine.)
ranger391xt
01-08-2022, 11:28 PM
I think this is wise and the way to go. You have now entered the realm of R&D. Please share whatever your findings are as it will help others.After getting pulled away from trying to create a shell plate for .38 Special, I pretty much decided to try to just use one of the existing collator plates. The main issue I run into at this point is that the mouth of a layed over case will occasionally get caught in one of the holes for mounting the box with the electronics. The slip clutch does its job when this happens.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220109/25c001ea2216799a53502a99b38db625.jpg
I have tried increasing the angle on the feeder, but that hasn't had any effect. I'm thinking maybe I need to print some plugs to put in those holes. Any chance of getting the diameter and depth of the larger part of the hole?
Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
MSUICEMAN
01-08-2022, 11:37 PM
After getting pulled away from trying to create a shell plate for .38 Special, I pretty much decided to try to just use one of the existing collator plates. The main issue I run into at this point is that the mouth of a layed over case will occasionally get caught in one of the holes for mounting the box with the electronics. The slip clutch does its job when this happens.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220109/25c001ea2216799a53502a99b38db625.jpg
I have tried increasing the angle on the feeder, but that hasn't had any effect. I'm thinking maybe I need to print some plugs to put in those holes. Any chance of getting the diameter and depth of the larger part of the hole?
Sent from my SM-N981U using TapatalkPersonally? I'd just jb weld it. But I'm a bit of an ogre sometimes in my thinking.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
TylerR
01-08-2022, 11:50 PM
After getting pulled away from trying to create a shell plate for .38 Special, I pretty much decided to try to just use one of the existing collator plates. The main issue I run into at this point is that the mouth of a layed over case will occasionally get caught in one of the holes for mounting the box with the electronics. The slip clutch does its job when this happens.
I have tried increasing the angle on the feeder, but that hasn't had any effect. I'm thinking maybe I need to print some plugs to put in those holes. Any chance of getting the diameter and depth of the larger part of the hole?
I discovered the same thing. It seemed like a good thing to do at the time, design wise. But in practice it was an issue. I removed those mounting holes from the main body many months ago, but only after I had printed my mongo collator. It now sits with some gorilla tape covering those holes. I do recommend re-downloading the package to get all the latest.
The hole is 7.2mm diameter.
TylerR
01-09-2022, 12:06 AM
Personally? I'd just jb weld it. But I'm a bit of an ogre sometimes in my thinking.
JB weld would fix it up right quick. Even wood putty would work.
Personally? I'd just jb weld it. But I'm a bit of an ogre sometimes in my thinking.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
I have to agree. But it doesn't have to be orgrish. Just rub vasoline over the areas inside and as for the holes press vasoline into the holes with a cotton swab. Then Add the JB Weld.....let it dry, and it won't stick to the base....should pop right out. After drying the patches can be smoothed around the edges and you can use mineral spirits to clean all the vasoline.
That way you could use those holes if you ever needed to.
TylerR
01-09-2022, 01:25 AM
For those using light sensor, if you are using the Emusky one from Amazon I am curious how they are holding up. I have gone through three already between the bullet and case feeders. I thought it might be because I wired positive through the relay, but I rewired after the first one fried and two more went kaput. All doing the same thing; start working intermittently the you can hear the relay clicking on/off but circuit not completing to send power/ground.
I have an old ammomike build with a larger one Amazon doesn’t stock at the moment and it is still going strong. The other two I have made for friends are using another brand also not available ATM and they are still running.
Curious what model others are using if they are holding up.
Also wondering if heat may be an issue as the box is stuffed with two motor boards, switches and sensor boards.
I am not sure on the failures. The one I wired up worked well for the time I used it. Is this the board you are using?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tom Myers
01-09-2022, 09:29 AM
I am not sure on the failures. The one I wired up worked well for the time I used it. Is this the board you are using?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am another that is severely electronically challenged and having problems with the sensor board.
I have not been able to get the one I have to work from the start. I do not have ready acess to a multimeter so no way to test the sensor other than covering and uncovering the sensor end.
Perhaps I am being presumptuous but the principle of the board seems simple enought to me. The sensor actuates a relay that makes or breaks the ground wire from the motor. I would think that un-plugging the sensor wires and then closing and opening the circuit between the sensor connector pins should activate the relay but even that does not work.
The wiring diagram seens logical and straighforward so the problem may be that my amateurish soldering job of connecting the motor ground to the connector pins may have damaged the board in some way.
Anyway, I ordered another board and, to eliminate my ham handed soldering ability, I also ordered a Female 18 AGW 2 pin connector to complete the ground circuit to the motor.
I am open to any suggestions as to whether I messed it up or the fact that it is just a bad board.
r4ndy
01-09-2022, 02:55 PM
I am not sure on the failures. The one I wired up worked well for the time I used it. Is this the board you are using?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, all the failures have been with this Emusky one at the link. I am subbing out with ones slightly larger which are a slightly different design and see if that changes things. I am fairly certain it is just bad quality from the supplier given the reviews. I will know after running a few thousand through the new ones. I don’t think it is anywhere else as the relay still clicks and the onboard relay still changes off/on it seems the relay is not completing the circuit.
TylerR
01-09-2022, 08:21 PM
Yes, all the failures have been with this Emusky one at the link. I am subbing out with ones slightly larger which are a slightly different design and see if that changes things. I am fairly certain it is just bad quality from the supplier given the reviews. I will know after running a few thousand through the new ones. I don’t think it is anywhere else as the relay still clicks and the onboard relay still changes off/on it seems the relay is not completing the circuit.
If it was working and then just stopped, seems clear that the board is going bad. If there is a better alternative I can change the link in the manual.
Fichtelwichtel
01-10-2022, 04:48 PM
After getting pulled away from trying to create a shell plate for .38 Special, I pretty much decided to try to just use one of the existing collator plates.
I created a .357 collator plate for my Ammo Mike feeder like the rifle plates where the cases lay on the side, works realy fast and realiable this way. The slots are 36mm wide and 11mm deep
294353
TylerR
01-11-2022, 10:03 AM
I created a .357 collator plate for my Ammo Mike feeder like the rifle plates where the cases lay on the side, works realy fast and realiable this way. The slots are 36mm wide and 11mm deep
This is what I am doing for 44mag and 45lc. The plate for 300BO works perfect.
Walnut
01-11-2022, 12:23 PM
TylerR,
I have been running your bullet feeder for 6 months+ and I love it on my XL750 and my Lee APP. I have printed off three bodies and ton of parts to make them all work. I just really want to tell you how appreciative I am for your hard work. I haven't made any bullet feeder dies yet. . . I had a bunch of DAA dies from my EntirelyCrimson bullet feeder. I have been using your feeder for 9mm/38, 44 mag, 45 cast bullet sizing on my APP most of the time. I have found with bit of time and patience I can get nearly every bullet to feed as fast as I can run the APP handle (the Lee 38 cal 105SWC is my nemesis) and get bullets sized faster than I can cast and powder coat them.
I try to check the forum every month and look for the various updates you have put out, thank you again for your continuing support and hard work, it has become quite the journey. You and your contributors have done a great job.
Today I did my monthly log in and now I see your designing and printing 3d powder cameras too on post #5305! If you feel like sharing, I would love to make myself a camera system just like yours!
Thank you again,
Walnut in Texas
TylerR
01-11-2022, 04:51 PM
TylerR,
I have been running your bullet feeder for 6 months+ and I love it on my XL750 and my Lee APP. I have printed off three bodies and ton of parts to make them all work. I just really want to tell you how appreciative I am for your hard work. I haven't made any bullet feeder dies yet. . . I had a bunch of DAA dies from my EntirelyCrimson bullet feeder. I have been using your feeder for 9mm/38, 44 mag, 45 cast bullet sizing on my APP most of the time. I have found with bit of time and patience I can get nearly every bullet to feed as fast as I can run the APP handle (the Lee 38 cal 105SWC is my nemesis) and get bullets sized faster than I can cast and powder coat them.
I try to check the forum every month and look for the various updates you have put out, thank you again for your continuing support and hard work, it has become quite the journey. You and your contributors have done a great job.
Today I did my monthly log in and now I see your designing and printing 3d powder cameras too on post #5305! If you feel like sharing, I would love to make myself a camera system just like yours!
Thank you again,
Walnut in Texas
Glad to hear! I appreciate that feedback very much.
Yes, I really like the camera powder check.
I am using this camera and screen.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QCMDJWL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Here are the 3d parts.
https://github.com/BF556/Other/tree/main/Powder%20Check
I spent hours and hours searching for a camera/screen setup, and finally decided on that one. I hated the 16ft camera cable so I spliced it to about 1ft. That was a pretty big project that could be easily messed up.
Added a picture of the unit after cable splice. Not pretty but does the job.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/930833817906860142/IMG_1397.JPG
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/808109576188198942/923600472185634836/IMG_1380.JPG?width=760&height=570
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/808109576188198942/923600471212589066/IMG_1379.JPG?width=760&height=570
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/808109576188198942/923600470415663144/IMG_1378.JPG?width=760&height=570
Anuccite
01-12-2022, 07:20 AM
Wow! Just Wow..... I have not been here since last spring or so.... TylerR and GWS you guys have done amazing work on this project (and continue to do so). I may need to actually fire up my printer again! I had made up a lot of 9mm and 223 last spring, and have not even touched my press since then.... But Last Saturdays match I shot the last of my 9mm, and started pulling the handle again on Monday....
No surprise at all, all my 3d parts are working flawlessly!
Walnut
01-12-2022, 03:55 PM
Thanks Tyler, I guess I have a new print project tonight when I get home. My Ender was getting lonely . .
Walnut in Texas
TylerR
01-12-2022, 04:39 PM
Wow! Just Wow..... I have not been here since last spring or so.... TylerR and GWS you guys have done amazing work on this project (and continue to do so). I may need to actually fire up my printer again! I had made up a lot of 9mm and 223 last spring, and have not even touched my press since then.... But Last Saturdays match I shot the last of my 9mm, and started pulling the handle again on Monday....
No surprise at all, all my 3d parts are working flawlessly!
Hopefully you have some primers stashed away..... :sad:
Kremins
01-13-2022, 12:29 AM
This thread has been great and finally got me to pull the trigger on the 3d printer. 3rd print was the Main body and 44 hours later it came out great. Now I just have one issue, on my XL750 I have the DAA feeder die in station 3 and the drop tube is rubbing against the dillon powder measure creating friction and not allowing the die with drop tube to drop freely causing more than one bullet to feed. Has someone already come up with a solution for this? I didn't see anything in the download or manual.
Thanks for all the work you guys have done!
TylerR
01-13-2022, 12:42 AM
This thread has been great and finally got me to pull the trigger on the 3d printer. 3rd print was the Main body and 44 hours later it came out great. Now I just have one issue, on my XL750 I have the DAA feeder die in station 3 and the drop tube is rubbing against the dillon powder measure creating friction and not allowing the die with drop tube to drop freely causing more than one bullet to feed. Has someone already come up with a solution for this? I didn't see anything in the download or manual.
Thanks for all the work you guys have done!
Sure have. You want to use one of the offset connectors originally created for the APP. I use one on my 750.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/931044160071430194/unknown.png
You did not mention what caliber, but for .45 I use the 13mm offset and the Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter. The adapter is what interfaces the feed die to the offset.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/8.%20APP/APP_Offset_Connector_13.stl
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter.stl
Kremins
01-13-2022, 10:47 AM
The caliber is 9mm so I am using the 10mm adapters. Thanks for the help I will start them printing.
TylerR
01-13-2022, 10:54 AM
The caliber is 9mm so I am using the 10mm adapters. Thanks for the help I will start them printing.
I usually go up one mm on the offsets, so I would recommend 11mm, although 10mm would most likely work as well.
Charlie_Sweden
01-14-2022, 04:10 PM
Hey TylerR,
I just downloaded the latest files and tried printing the regular droptubes in 10 and 12, along with bulletfeed inserts .38, .44 and .45. but the .44 and .45 does not fit when printed (at 0.10mm layers).
These are the measurements i get:
Droptube 10 inner diameter: 16.40mm
Droptube 12 inner diameter: 16.40mm
Feed insert .38 outer diameter: 16.40mm
Feed insert .44 outer diameter: 16.45mm
Feed insert .45 outer diameter: 16.60mm
I put all of them in the same print and cut out to just print the parts that fit together, if it was a calibration or flow error i should see the same error on each insert, but they're different, which is odd.
294528
Can you have a look at those files and see if something is wrong, I see they've been updated recently.
Best regards from across the pond.
/Karl
TylerR
01-14-2022, 05:35 PM
Hey TylerR,
I just downloaded the latest files and tried printing the regular droptubes in 10 and 12, along with bulletfeed inserts .38, .44 and .45. but the .44 and .45 does not fit when printed (at 0.10mm layers).
These are the measurements i get:
Droptube 10 inner diameter: 16.40mm
Droptube 12 inner diameter: 16.40mm
Feed insert .38 outer diameter: 16.40mm
Feed insert .44 outer diameter: 16.45mm
Feed insert .45 outer diameter: 16.60mm
I put all of them in the same print and cut out to just print the parts that fit together, if it was a calibration or flow error i should see the same error on each insert, but they're different, which is odd.
Can you have a look at those files and see if something is wrong, I see they've been updated recently.
Best regards from across the pond.
/Karl
Not sure what you have going on, but the drop tubes definitely do not have the same diameter. Except for at the very top maybe where it interfaces with the spring. The bullet dies all start out with a similar diameter, but they dont fiinish with that.
These are all files I have printed many times.
Charlie_Sweden
01-14-2022, 05:40 PM
I'm sorry if i was unclear, i was talking about the interface diameters. Where the droptube slides onto the bulletfeed insert.
TylerR
01-14-2022, 05:42 PM
I usually go up one mm on the offsets, so I would recommend 11mm, although 10mm would most likely work as well.
showing a subsection of the print does not tell me much.
TylerR
01-14-2022, 05:44 PM
I'm sorry if i was unclear, i was talking about the interface diameters. Where the droptube slides onto the bulletfeed insert.
I guess I would have to look at the .45 to see why is is 16.60mm and not 16.40mm
Charlie_Sweden
01-14-2022, 05:45 PM
To not have to print for several days again, i cut out the interface parts from the .stls i listed above.
Running a new testprint now with a setting to print outer perimeter first, should get more accurate dimensions that way. still, that wont explain why the .45 is 16.60mm. I'll get back to you.
TylerR
01-14-2022, 05:51 PM
To not have to print for several days again, i cut out the interface parts from the .stls i listed above.
Running a new testprint now with a setting to print outer perimeter first, should get more accurate dimensions that way. still, that wont explain why the .45 is 16.60mm. I'll get back to you.
I am getting the same dia for all the feed dies. 16.46.mm
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/931666804030455908/unknown.png
Charlie_Sweden
01-14-2022, 05:54 PM
Okay, thanks for checking, I'll continue investigating on my end. :-)
heliskyr
01-15-2022, 06:09 PM
Sure have. You want to use one of the offset connectors originally created for the APP. I use one on my 750.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/931044160071430194/unknown.png
You did not mention what caliber, but for .45 I use the 13mm offset and the Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter. The adapter is what interfaces the feed die to the offset.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/8.%20APP/APP_Offset_Connector_13.stl
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/5.%20Adapters/Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter.stl
That looks like a nice solution to solve the powder measure/bullet drop conflict. Does that mean one would NOT have to get the DAA Extra short Dillon Powder bar to run a bullet feeder and a powder check? https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-extra-short-dillon-powder-bar
heliskyr
01-15-2022, 06:36 PM
First off, huge thanks to TylerR, GWS, and all of the other contributors to this project! I'm in awe of your ingenuity and design skills! Purchased my 1st 3D printer to make this project (and many more I'm sure) and have some (probably very basic) electronics questions after trying to find answers in this thread:
1. How crucial is having a 12v power supply running at 6A as suggested in the project user manual, or can one use a lower amperage power supply? I purchased the suggested Dayton motor rated at 1.3A and this speed controller from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QVONO20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I found a 12v 2A power brick in my pile of old electronics- would that suffice or would it be underpowered for this application?
2. This speed controller can run in two directions, and has a built in 3-position switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTZD9YI/ref=ewc_pr_img_3?smid=A298K45OP416LP&psc=1. Could I run one of these to add the functionality of clearing a jam in the collator, or would it not be compatible with the motor? And since it has an integrated switch, would that eliminate the need for the relay? Or is the relay needed since we are adding a proximity sensor to the circuit?
3. I purchased a proximity sensor for the project, and the wires from the sensor are quite long. Will I need the JST connectors&wires if the existing sensor wires are long enough? This is the sensor I purchased if this helps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WS45K3P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I'd love to avoid the extra soldering and complexity of more wires if not crucial to the function.
As you can see, my electronics understanding is very limited! Besides soldering I'm pretty lacking, and I am finding the electronics portion of the project to be the most daunting aspect.
Thanks for any insights!
I'll let TylerR answer most of your questions as you will most likely use his parts, but on #3, the sensor you bought is "NO" which means the sensor is Normally Open (circuit off) and turns on only when tripped. That one is Not what you want.
You want a sensor that is NC. IOW's with the separate powder switch turn on, the motor runs (circuit closed) all the time, until it senses a bullet or case stopped in front of it...which opens the circuit, turning the motor off.
I cut off my sensor leads to fit, then solder them or wire nut them to the other wiring as in Tyler's schematic.
Well....since the speed control you already bought is beefier than the combo unit you mentioned in#3, I should tell you that I used the beefy one you already have, and bought a simple rocker on/off switch to go with it.....therefore maybe it's be simpler if you print the new box I made to fit that same speed control board. Fact is, I just got around to sending the stl files to TylerR Yesterday. Maybe he's posted the three files to the "Contributors" section already......(its made to mount under the collator as shown below)
Here's a picture of those parts mounted under my case collator:
https://i.postimg.cc/021mxV4t/IMG_3978.jpg
heliskyr
01-15-2022, 10:17 PM
I'll let TylerR answer most of your questions as you will most likely use his parts, but on #3, the sensor you bought is "NO" which means the sensor is Normally Open (circuit off) and turns on only when tripped. That one is Not what you want.
You want a sensor that is NC. IOW's with the separate powder switch turn on, the motor runs (circuit closed) all the time, until it senses a bullet or case stopped in front of it...which opens the circuit, turning the motor off.
I cut off my sensor leads to fit, then solder them or wire nut them to the other wiring as in Tyler's schematic.
I will add one more observation: the speed control you already bought is beefier than the combo unit you mentioned next. I used the beefy one you have and bought a simple rocker on/off switch to go with it.....and made a box to fit that speed control board. Fact is, I just got around to sending the stl files to TylerR Yesterday.
Here's a picture of the parts mounted under my case collator:
https://i.postimg.cc/021mxV4t/IMG_3978.jpg
Thanks for catching that error in sensor type! As luck would have it, I ordered two different prox sensors, including this one, which looks like it is NC and will hopefully work! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That electronic box looks good. I ran into probably the same problem you did when using that large controller in the large electronics box. The controller was too large to mount near the cutout for the power switch, so I edited the file to move the small hole in the large box down about an inch. It's printing now so we'll see how I did! I also printed MillerKiller's electronic box back extension to accommodate that controller.
Well....since the speed control you already bought is beefier than the combo unit you mentioned in#3, I should tell you that I used the beefy one you already have, and bought a simple rocker on/off switch to go with it.....therefore maybe it's be simpler if you print the new box I made to fit that same speed control board. Fact is, I just got around to sending the stl files to TylerR Yesterday. Maybe he's posted the three files to the "Contributors" section already......(its made to mount under the collator as shown below)
I rewrote the last paragraph of my last post, after realizing you might actually have it easier using that speed control with my new box & mount I just sent TylerR. Didn't realize you already posted. Appears I'm too late to help out with the box.... no matter...I'm sure you'll make it all work.
heliskyr
01-15-2022, 11:12 PM
I rewrote the last paragraph of my last post, after realizing you might actually have it easier using that speed control with my new box & mount I just sent TylerR. Didn't realize you already posted. Appears I'm too late to help out with the box.... no matter...I'm sure you'll make it all work.
Thanks! I'll keep an eye out for your new box and print it out as well. It's great to have so many options to customize the feeder to one's specific use case.
TylerR
01-16-2022, 12:22 AM
That looks like a nice solution to solve the powder measure/bullet drop conflict. Does that mean one would NOT have to get the DAA Extra short Dillon Powder bar to run a bullet feeder and a powder check? https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-extra-short-dillon-powder-bar
I have not tried running it in station 4, but I bet it would work. It is a pretty aggressive offset.
TylerR
01-16-2022, 12:30 AM
First off, huge thanks to TylerR, GWS, and all of the other contributors to this project! I'm in awe of your ingenuity and design skills! Purchased my 1st 3D printer to make this project (and many more I'm sure) and have some (probably very basic) electronics questions after trying to find answers in this thread:
1. How crucial is having a 12v power supply running at 6A as suggested in the project user manual, or can one use a lower amperage power supply? I purchased the suggested Dayton motor rated at 1.3A and this speed controller from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QVONO20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I found a 12v 2A power brick in my pile of old electronics- would that suffice or would it be underpowered for this application?
6 amps is way overkill. I hooked up my killawatt the other day and it was averaging less then 1 amp. I think a 2amp supply would work fine.
2. This speed controller can run in two directions, and has a built in 3-position switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTZD9YI/ref=ewc_pr_img_3?smid=A298K45OP416LP&psc=1. Could I run one of these to add the functionality of clearing a jam in the collator, or would it not be compatible with the motor? And since it has an integrated switch, would that eliminate the need for the relay? Or is the relay needed since we are adding a proximity sensor to the circuit?
I dont see any practical use for reversing the motor. relay is still needed.
3. I purchased a proximity sensor for the project, and the wires from the sensor are quite long. Will I need the JST connectors&wires if the existing sensor wires are long enough? This is the sensor I purchased if this helps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WS45K3P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I'd love to avoid the extra soldering and complexity of more wires if not crucial to the function.
The jst connectors are more for being able to disconnect everything and easily replacing something that might break.
As you can see, my electronics understanding is very limited! Besides soldering I'm pretty lacking, and I am finding the electronics portion of the project to be the most daunting aspect.
Thanks for any insights!
hope that helps
heliskyr
01-16-2022, 01:32 AM
hope that helps
Immensely! Thanks!
Kremins
01-16-2022, 08:16 PM
I have not tried running it in station 4, but I bet it would work. It is a pretty aggressive offset.
I have it running on mine and it seems to work just fine, only issue is I think I need to smooth down the die some so it will fall back in place easier. I have tried it without the offset and it does the same thing so I know the offset is not the problem.
I'd love to avoid the extra soldering and complexity of more wires if not crucial to the function.
As you can see, my electronics understanding is very limited! Besides soldering I'm pretty lacking, and I am finding the electronics portion of the project to be the most daunting aspect. Thanks for any insights!
I soldered leads only to where I had to... to the relay pegs, but I prefer small wire nuts connecting all the wire leads. I really like the ease using wire nuts to take things apart and changing components whenever...if ever needed. The push-in connectors IMO are not as versatile.
Charlie_Sweden
01-17-2022, 04:31 AM
TylerR,
Regarding my issues with the feed inserts and interface with drop tubes, turns out it was a combination of too many perimeters and low quality PLA which had some bad tolerances.
Thanks again for checking on your end.
Best regards
Karl
MSUICEMAN
01-18-2022, 12:07 AM
I soldered leads only to where I had to... to the relay pegs, but I prefer small wire nuts connecting all the wire leads. I really like the ease using wire nuts to take things apart and changing components whenever...if ever needed. The push-in connectors IMO are not as versatile.I suck at soldering. Still working on the wiring. Want to find some better 18ga. I have some solid core, but it is stiff and not easy to work with. And my 16ga is too darn thick for some of the screw terminals. I gotta sit down and give it a real go. Haven't had a lot of time in the last month or two.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
heliskyr
01-18-2022, 03:26 AM
So I wired up all of my components (roughly, outside of the box) today to test the function and I’m having a problem with my proximity sensor that I’m hopeful I could get some help with.
The motor turns on when I flip the switch, the led light on the switch lights up, the knob on the speed controller modulates the speed, and the led on the back of the proximity sensor lights up when nothing is close to it, and the sensor led turns off when I place a case close to it.
My problem: while the proximity sensor appears to be sensing cartridges as evidenced by the led turning on/off, the motor stays running regardless of the status of proximity sensor.
I’m using these components:
1. Speed controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QVONO20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. Proximity sensor https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3. Relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B888WVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4. Switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R8KVQWR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s02?ie=UTF8&th=1
I've gone over the wiring several times to see where I made a mistake and can’t get the sensor to work,
Any help is greatly appreciated!
That happened to me once too, and I thought I had a bad sensor. Turned out I had the Relay wired wrong. A picture might help, but I'd bet you need to change leads on the relay.
I suck at soldering. Still working on the wiring. Want to find some better 18ga. I have some solid core, but it is stiff and not easy to work with. And my 16ga is too darn thick for some of the screw terminals. I gotta sit down and give it a real go. Haven't had a lot of time in the last month or two.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
I was in the same boat using scraps of wire so I bought this package of color coded wire on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RDBW7L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1).
I too had problems with small screw terminals so I had these terminal lugs (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYTWTE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), pulled off the plastic and soldered in the wire(s). It was especially easier for connections with more than one wire. These forked terminals (https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Connectors-Electrical-Terminals-MILAPEAK/dp/B07Q2XMKXZ/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3F8ZB32OVO1FI&keywords=Crimp%2BTerminal%2B22-16&qid=1642517065&s=industrial&sprefix=crimp%2Bterminal%2B22-16%2B%2Cindustrial%2C91&sr=1-13&th=1) would probably work even better.
I finished mine last week. I figure not bad for never using a 3D printer before 12/26/21. The only piece I had to reprint was the drop tube for the proximity switch. I have my collator on the right side so the bullet window was facing away from me. I figured out how to print a mirror image & all better now except the #10 on the tube is also reversed now(I can live with that). I did a trial run of 400 rounds. Not ONE failure or jam of any kind. I have to say thank you again to Tyler & all who have contributed here, making it possible for the average Joe to build this. Try not to laugh at the 3D printed brass feeder in the pic. It actually works really well.
294780
Sig! Looks great! 3d printers.....where were they 10 years ago! I think of all the time I spent manufacturing parts by hand and I am thankful all the more. And thanks be to AmmoMike, TylerR, and others who influenced me to buy my Creality CR-10v2. Way more fun than than other Home Manufacturing Methods.....and while they are printing (does take a while) we can be working on the next project's .STL files!
As for the brass collator.....you KNOW you will be printing another TylerR special to replace that.;) Adding two videos to show you my efforts in that same direction:.
First video (pre-3D Printer days).....4 l--o--n--g 36" tubes in a minute or less. (that's 12' of cases collated.)
Second video Making and perfecting TylerR's bullet feeder into a casefeeder (with a little TylerR help of course).
https://youtu.be/CHtSqJsZz7k
https://youtu.be/-hDs9eLVxzw
MSUICEMAN
01-18-2022, 07:46 PM
I finished mine last week. I figure not bad for never using a 3D printer before 12/26/21. The only piece I had to reprint was the drop tube for the proximity switch. I have my collator on the right side so the bullet window was facing away from me. I figured out how to print a mirror image & all better now except the #10 on the tube is also reversed now(I can live with that). I did a trial run of 400 rounds. Not ONE failure or jam of any kind. I have to say thank you again to Tyler & all who have contributed here, making it possible for the average Joe to build this. Try not to laugh at the 3D printed brass feeder in the pic. It actually works really well.
294780What piping did you use to face mount it? I assume with a threaded flange?
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
What piping did you use to face mount it? I assume with a threaded flange?
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Yes a threaded flange 3/4" black plumbing pipe. I got a 2' section at the H. depot. It comes threaded on both ends. I love the fact that I can swivel the collator off to the side to fill the powder hopper & such. I still can't believe how well it works.
TylerR
01-18-2022, 08:15 PM
So I wired up all of my components (roughly, outside of the box) today to test the function and I’m having a problem with my proximity sensor that I’m hopeful I could get some help with.
The motor turns on when I flip the switch, the led light on the switch lights up, the knob on the speed controller modulates the speed, and the led on the back of the proximity sensor lights up when nothing is close to it, and the sensor led turns off when I place a case close to it.
My problem: while the proximity sensor appears to be sensing cartridges as evidenced by the led turning on/off, the motor stays running regardless of the status of proximity sensor.
I’m using these components:
1. Speed controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QVONO20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. Proximity sensor https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWTQ3SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3. Relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B888WVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4. Switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R8KVQWR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s02?ie=UTF8&th=1
I've gone over the wiring several times to see where I made a mistake and can’t get the sensor to work,
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Most common issue is with the proximity sensor wire colors. The Brown wire is positive (V+). The Blue wire is negative (ground), and the Black wire is the signal wire that goes to the Relay in Pin 1. I think its common to mix up the blue and black wires. I did it once.
Most common issue is with the proximity sensor wire colors. The Brown wire is positive (V+). The Blue wire is negative (ground), and the Black wire is the signal wire that goes to the Relay in Pin 1. I think its common to mix up the blue and black wires. I did it once.
That's right, I remember........I had those leads reversed, Black from the Sensor, NOT blue goes to the negative "IN" on the Relay. The blue goes to the common negative.....which seems wrong....but it isn't. I mean black in all other cases goes to negative ground so it's easy to get that wrong on the sensor.
45acp
01-20-2022, 08:38 AM
I'll let TylerR answer most of your questions as you will most likely use his parts, but on #3, the sensor you bought is "NO" which means the sensor is Normally Open (circuit off) and turns on only when tripped. That one is Not what you want.
You want a sensor that is NC. IOW's with the separate powder switch turn on, the motor runs (circuit closed) all the time, until it senses a bullet or case stopped in front of it...which opens the circuit, turning the motor off.
I cut off my sensor leads to fit, then solder them or wire nut them to the other wiring as in Tyler's schematic.
Well....since the speed control you already bought is beefier than the combo unit you mentioned in#3, I should tell you that I used the beefy one you already have, and bought a simple rocker on/off switch to go with it.....therefore maybe it's be simpler if you print the new box I made to fit that same speed control board. Fact is, I just got around to sending the stl files to TylerR Yesterday. Maybe he's posted the three files to the "Contributors" section already......(its made to mount under the collator as shown below)
Here's a picture of those parts mounted under my case collator:
https://i.postimg.cc/021mxV4t/IMG_3978.jpg
Hi.
May i be so rude to ask for stl for this box? I can´t see it in the contributors folder, or is the file located somewhere else?
MSUICEMAN
01-20-2022, 08:54 AM
That happened to me once too, and I thought I had a bad sensor. Turned out I had the Relay wired wrong. A picture might help, but I'd bet you need to change leads on the relay.In one wiring schema I have it seems to show two legs of the relay to be bonded together, is that correct?
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
TylerR
01-20-2022, 10:29 AM
Hi.
May i be so rude to ask for stl for this box? I can´t see it in the contributors folder, or is the file located somewhere else?
That's my bad. GWS gave it to me days ago. just been busy. uploading it now. it will be in the GWS file.
TylerR
01-20-2022, 10:34 AM
In one wiring schema I have it seems to show two legs of the relay to be bonded together, is that correct?
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Pins 3 and 4 establish continuity for the V+ going from the speed controller out to the motor. Is that what you mean?
Also want to make sure, you are looking at my latest diagram. Did make some changes a month or so ago.
On December 13 sierra1911 post the following observation:
I noticed a difference between the photocell and proximity wiring diagrams in version bf_v1.4.x of the manual.
The photocell diagram places the speed controller immediately after the power supply and power switch so that the speed controller remains powered whenever the power switch is on. The proximity diagram places the speed controller after the sensor relay so that the speed controller is cycled on and off with the motor.
Is the difference intentional/needed? Would it be better to change the proximity diagram, swapping the speed controller and relay so that the speed controller remains powered whenever the power switch is on instead of being cycled on and off with the motor?
While both arrangements function, the proximity diagram appears to subject the electronics of the speed controller to thousands of unnecessary on/off cycles.
Dale
TylerR responded with the following and posted an updated schematic:
That is a very interesting observation, and I agree with your assessment. I am not sure how much of an issue it is in practicality, but I agree it should be changed. I will take a look at it when I get a chance.
Heres both schematics: New one on the left ..... old one on the right......and yes the old one tied two leads together on the relay. I'm sure TylerR tried the new one and it worked too. To be honest I haven't taken the time to change the wiring on mine (wired the old way) since it works fine. Maybe I should? ;)
https://i.postimg.cc/MG5fgf53/Schematic_Lnew_Rold.png
For me (slower than TylerR) I needed another way of illustrating to keep me from wiring it wrong....below is the OLD way. But yes the two leads on that relay are together.....see the wire on the far left. This works, but.......
Update: I just replaced the old diagram with the new one with the circuit changes TylerR came up with so anyone using my box like gentleman called 45acp would have a good crutch to keep the thinking straight.....is can be confusing for sure.
https://i.postimg.cc/fRfffCcq/Wiring-Diagram-for-GWS-combo-box.png
MSUICEMAN
01-20-2022, 11:00 AM
damned if i can find the source, but somewhere i found a wiring diagram (not particularly well done, but good enough), and it appears to show that out (+) and in (+) are wired together, as well as out (+) going to the on/off switch (as well as brown wire to proximity sensor via wire nut).
maybe its wrong. i'm not a great circuit person. do you know of a good/proper wiring diagram for a proximity switch configuration? maybe its there and I just missed it?
didn't see the above reply... i guess I was using an old "method" or wiring diagram. I now see the updated one. I will wire per that one.
Thanks everyone for the help on this!
Steve
Steve
TylerR
01-20-2022, 11:03 AM
On December 13 sierra1911 post the following observation:
TylerR responded with the following and posted an updated schematic:
Heres both schematics: New one on the left ..... old one on the right......and yes the old one tied two leads together on the relay. I'm sure TylerR tried the new one and it worked too. To be honest I haven't taken the time to change the wiring on mine (wired the old way) since it works fine. Maybe I should? ;)
For me (slower than TylerR) I needed another way of illustrating to keep me from wiring it wrong....but this is the OLD way. But yes the two leads on that relay are together.....see the wire on the far left. This works, but.......
You might be better off using the NEW schematic ABOVE. All confusing I know.
I would like to add, these schematics are just our interpretations on how to wire it. What is most important is understanding how a prox sensor works, and how a relay works, etc.... Without that knowledge its a bit like poking at it with a sharp stick. I had to educate myself on relays, because while I had a basic concept, I did not have practical knowledge.
TylerR
01-20-2022, 11:04 AM
damned if i can find the source, but somewhere i found a wiring diagram (not particularly well done, but good enough), and it appears to show that out (+) and in (+) are wired together, as well as out (+) going to the on/off switch (as well as brown wire to proximity sensor via wire nut).
maybe its wrong. i'm not a great circuit person. do you know of a good/proper wiring diagram for a proximity switch configuration? maybe its there and I just missed it?
Steve
Yes mine, its in the project.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/Images/Proximity%20Wiring%20Schematic.png
TylerR
01-20-2022, 11:09 AM
Wanted to clarify. I am not a wiring schematic professional. I did not spend time making clear that when two wires cross at a right angle, they are not tied together. In this image, the two red wires indicated in the blue boxes are not tied together. They are just crossing in the diagram.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808109576188198942/933761905527517195/unknown.png
MSUICEMAN
01-20-2022, 11:30 AM
Wanted to clarify. I am not a wiring schematic professional. I did not spend time making clear that when two wires cross at a right angle, they are not tied together. In this image, the two red wires indicated in the blue boxes are not tied together. They are just crossing in the diagram.
294862
your schematic is fine. i was working on the "old" one found in the bottom of the one reply above. yours is pretty darn clear. i hopefully should be able to get it done tonight.
MSUICEMAN
01-20-2022, 04:09 PM
in your diagram you have two + outs for the relay, is that supposed to be one (+) and one negative or are two wires going to the + out pin?
TylerR
01-20-2022, 04:20 PM
in your diagram you have two + outs for the relay, is that supposed to be one (+) and one negative or are two wires going to the + out pin?
Its labled + and - on the relay, which I have in the diagram. But it is really just a switch between two 12v+ wires. That circuit closes when the circuit on pins one and two close. Which then creates continuity for the 12v+ to flow to the motor.
It might be good to study up on how relays work. This is a good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n594CkrP6xE
TylerR
01-20-2022, 04:43 PM
And yet another version of the diagram, made by GWS to show wire crossovers.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/Images/Proximity%20Wiring%20Schematic%20New.png?raw=true
The relay image you just posted is for the old configuration where the leads on the relay are tied together.;)
TylerR
01-20-2022, 05:18 PM
The relay image you just posted is for the old configuration where the leads on the relay are tied together.;)
Yes, you are right. removing. sorry for the confusion.
also, I changed the #3 pin on your new diagram back to a red -. Since it shows - on the actual relay. Even though its a +12v out. Confusing I know, but it is what it is.
Here is the updated version of the relay:
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/Images/relay.png?raw=true
Its labled + and - on the relay, which I have in the diagram. But it is really just a switch between two 12v+ wires. That circuit closes when the circuit on pins one and two close. Which then creates continuity for the 12v+ to flow to the motor.
It might be good to study up on how relays work. This is a good video.
Super good video......even I can see clearly now! I heard of relays, had not a clue of what they were for......until TylerR fixed my proximity circuit with it. I burned out 2 speed control circuits thinking they were just the result of cheap Chinese products. I wonder what else I burned up the same way on other projects?
This diagram helped me:294904
TylerR
01-20-2022, 07:21 PM
This diagram helped me:
I like that one as well. I did not create it. Unfortunately its the old setup and I have not bothered to fix it.
MSUICEMAN
01-20-2022, 07:58 PM
I'm honestly terribly with circuitry. I did pick up a raspberry pi and a few kits to kinda get better at it all. Soldering is my nemesis. Though maybe it's due to crappy equipment.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Soldering is not that hard as long as you apply the iron to the wires, heat the wires, then apply the solder to the hot wires (never to the tool first, if you can help it). Hopefully you are using resin-core solder that's about 1 mm in diameter...not the thick stuff.
I just drafted the wiring diagram for my new box and components, using the New circuit design. (so I can rewire mine) Now nobody better come up with a better circuit! ;)
https://i.postimg.cc/L8b0JmVH/Wiring-Diagram-for-GWS-combo-box.png
I will probably add another wirenut so I don't have to have such a long lead to the on/off switch from the 12V power supply, too.
heliskyr
01-21-2022, 01:36 AM
Thanks GWS and TylerR for your help with my wiring issues! I'm happy to say I finally have the issue sorted, and my solution was totally unexpected!
After rewiring my setup using every different wiring diagram in this thread, and still having my NC Proximity sensor sensing a cartridge but not stopping the motor, I ordered and installed a new relay and new speed controller. Same result! So I decided to try the "wrong" NO proximity sensor I had planned on returning to Amazon. Decided to try it to rule in/out the NC proximity sensor, expecting it to react in the exact wrong way (turn motor on when tube full, off when empty.)
For reasons I cannot explain, that NO sensor did the trick! So I then properly wired everything up in the box, mounted it to a ceiling pole I fashioned, and it works great! The ceiling mount allows me to swap presses on my Inline Fab quick mount and share the feeder with other presses.
This project is definitely going to save me a ton of reloading time!
Here is my setup for when I bulk swage 556 brass:
294947
There's been a few reports of Amazon selling NO sensors on one site, and they turn out to be NC sensors. It appears you got one of those.....glad you found out before you sent it back. The collator looks awesome! Ha! It looks like it is in mid air and gravity free. ;)
heliskyr
01-21-2022, 02:27 AM
Thanks for all of your help!
Here are some more pics that better show the mount. (I'm new to this site so not having the best luck attaching pics)
294948294949294950
TylerR
01-21-2022, 09:34 AM
Thanks for all of your help!
Here are some more pics that better show the mount. (I'm new to this site so not having the best luck attaching pics)
Looks great. I did something very similar to you. I have a case and bullet feeder mounted from a bar so they can be moved to any press on the bench.
This diagram helped me:294904
That is the diagram I followed. Everything works as best I can tell after 400 rounds. Is there an issue leaving it wired this way?
TylerR
01-21-2022, 03:08 PM
That is the diagram I followed. Everything works as best I can tell after 400 rounds. Is there an issue leaving it wired this way?
Most likely not. I am not re-wiring any of mine.
Most likely not. I am not re-wiring any of mine.
Then I have to ask.......did you try the new wiring to see if it works?.......or is that My job now that I changed my box's wiring diagram!;).....tomorrow's Saturday....guess I'll try it.....
TylerR
01-21-2022, 03:45 PM
Then I have to ask.......did you try the new wiring to see if it works?.......or is that My job now that I changed my box's wiring diagram!;).....tomorrow's Saturday....guess I'll try it.....
Full disclosure. I did not. All theoretical. But so was my original relay design. Please let us know if you see any smoke. haha. JK
Full disclosure. I did not. All theoretical. But so was my original relay design. Please let us know if you see any smoke. haha. JK
I doubt with 12 volts there will be smoke.....broken sensor, broken speed control, maybe. Maybe it will sing to me....that could be cool....and actually the word cool might be the important one. Electronics too warm die early.;)
Ggojcaj
01-21-2022, 10:52 PM
I have a question about the print recommendation the area that says "walls" it'll say 2 is that for the wall thickness or the wall count. sorry if its a dumb question but when I go to assemble some of the adapters I've been cracking a few. thanks
MSUICEMAN
01-21-2022, 10:54 PM
I have a question about the print recommendation the area that says "walls" it'll say 2 is that for the wall thickness or the wall count. sorry if its a dumb question but when I got to assemble some of the adapters I've been cracking a few. thanksWall count
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Ggojcaj
01-21-2022, 10:56 PM
Thank you!
I have a question about the print recommendation the area that says "walls" it'll say 2 is that for the wall thickness or the wall count. sorry if its a dumb question but when I go to assemble some of the adapters I've been cracking a few. thanks
If you've been cracking a few, are you printing .2mm high layers? Most of us have found that .12mm high layers makes them fit better. If that doesn't help then maybe you need to calibrate your printer? Didn't TylerR have a calibration link he shared some time or another?
45acp
01-22-2022, 04:39 PM
If you've been cracking a few, are you printing .2mm high layers? Most of us have found that .12mm high layers makes them fit better. If that doesn't help then maybe you need to calibrate your printer? Didn't TylerR have a calibration link he shared some time or another?
Maybe this one?
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
I think this video explaine it real good for e-steps and flow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzQjtWhg9VE&t=444s
Full disclosure. I did not. All theoretical. But so was my original relay design. Please let us know if you see any smoke. haha. JK
No smoke.....works great.....and now I can rest knowing Murfy's Law has been dealt with, and the electronics engineers are satisfied. But will I redo the other three?..............ah, um, no. ;) TylerR.......you're covered though, does indeed work.
My turn for full disclosure: I did discover today that my Proximity tee for small diameter bullets and cases can't be vertical and be 100% at detection. I always leaned my collators so falling bullets are falling against the sensor, but I did make a .223 insert for it.....bullets at least worked fine with bigger calibers. But today .223 cases had trouble too, sense my new rifle case collator drops them vertical.
Perfectly vertical will work better with Tyler's caliber specific downtubes. The only downside is having to change them out when changing calibers.....
I'm playing with the idea to just drop a clear thinwall tube inside.....but then that's changing things too.....so 6 of one.....or half a dozen of the other, is the same, I believe is the saying. For my rifle case collator I may just use Tyler's Drop over Tee on the short version caliber specific downtubes and be done with it. Will try that when I get a downtube for .223 printed....
The thing with case feeders....at least with most rifle calibers is they are long.....and vertical dropping is faster dropping. Faster dropping a long case means they can get out of the way and not be as likely to hang up and test the clutch.
ranger391xt
01-23-2022, 01:40 AM
Soldering is not that hard as long as you apply the iron to the wires, heat the wires, then apply the solder to the hot wires (never to the tool first, if you can help it). Hopefully you are using resin-core solder that's about 1 mm in diameter...not the thick stuff.
I just drafted the wiring diagram for my new box and components, using the New circuit design. (so I can rewire mine) Now nobody better come up with a better circuit! ;)
https://i.postimg.cc/L8b0JmVH/Wiring-Diagram-for-GWS-combo-box.png
I will probably add another wirenut so I don't have to have such a long lead to the on/off switch from the 12V power supply, too.I've been working on designing a PCB (circuit board) that the relay could be soldered onto along with terminal blocks for the connection to the switch, Power supply, motor control, sensor and motor. My thinking is this would make connecting everything simpler and eliminate some of the need to solder wires together and reduce the rats nest in the box. It would also allow things like the sensor to be swapped out easily in the event of a component failure.
I had layed it out based on the old schematic. Trying to determine if it is necessary to change it based on the new wiring diagram.
looks like I could get 20 PCB printed in China pretty cheap. Not sure how long they would take to get here though. I may get a batch of them printed when I finalize things and offer a few of the extras here if there is interest.
Here is what it might look like. Demension are approx 61mm X 47mm
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/1738385b638b2dc383049b26aedb77b9.jpg
heliskyr
01-23-2022, 02:50 AM
Thats very cool! Wiring everything up was the most challenging part of this project for me, so your solution would greatly simplify the electronics part for electrically-challenged folks like me. Id take you up on a couple of boards for future feeders
I've been working on designing a PCB (circuit board) that the relay could be soldered onto along with terminal blocks for the connection to the switch, Power supply, motor control, sensor and motor. My thinking is this would make connecting everything simpler and eliminate some of the need to solder wires together and reduce the rats nest in the box. It would also allow things like the sensor to be swapped out easily in the event of a component failure.
I had layed it out based on the old schematic. Trying to determine if it is necessary to change it based on the new wiring diagram.
looks like I could get 20 PCB printed in China pretty cheap. Not sure how long they would take to get here though. I may get a batch of them printed when I finalize things and offer a few of the extras here if there is interest.
Here is what it might look like. Dimension are approx 61mm X 47mm
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/1738385b638b2dc383049b26aedb77b9.jpg
Looks promising, but that would be two pcbs since the speed control I used has one about the same size. Since I took the collator down today to rewire it I took a picture of the rats nest.;) The only soldering required was the four posts above the blue relay closest in the picture.
https://i.postimg.cc/YSdwS5sk/IMG-3977.jpg
As you can see, with the existing pcb and the relay, it's pretty full. So I assume you are thinking TylerR's biggest box? or bigger still? My box that's full already won't handle it, for sure. (pictured below) Now if you could duplicate the speed control pcb only wider to include four holes for the relay, that would be most awesome. :)
https://i.postimg.cc/021mxV4t/IMG-3978.jpg
rjz5400
01-23-2022, 01:56 PM
I have a few questions i have been reading this thread for a couple weeks and printing a few parts at a time. Im currently about 12 hours into the main body!!
I will share some experience to try to add something and list my questions second.
I am using esun PLA+ on an ender 3 v2 mostly stock with yellow springs. (the light blue is not a good match for dillon blue, in eSun I think between their light and dark would be better)
it prints amazingly well, it does need the height tuned in very tight and i'm running it at 210 65 with fan down from 255 to 101 and off for the first 5 or so layers. i will try to edit with a photo of my main body for your viewing pleasure. I am also in New Mexico shooting 3 gun basically all my reloading is for that.
Also i had no issues installing java on my MAC and running the generator program, although it saved the pdf to my desktop i just moved it into my BF556 folder. 10.13.6 and current java download im guessing. I did have to give it special permission to trust java and the generator JAR and use some JAR opener software i didn't even know was on my computer.
Lastly I did notice a downgrade in the surface of my bullet feed "ramps" leading away from the pockets due to the infill settings having such a wide gap in them, hopefully a picture shows it started printing the tapered ramps in mid air. it eventually piled up and achieved the desired goal but in the future i'll probably choose a "tighter weave" on the infill to better support the top skin layers. again hopefully i can edit for pics.
1. any old 8mm hex couplers can be made to work right? the linked ones are OOS ATM (out of stock At The Moment)
2. Can a Buck convertor be reliably used to just lower the input Voltage instead of a PMW which pulses power rapidly on off but at 12v? I am using the cheaper 64j3s motor i have a few buck converters laying around already to just do a steady 3 or 6 or 9 or 11v to get a reasonable speed for each caliber
3. I thought i saw someone (GWS?) say the mix spring kit listed in the current Zip has 10 or so springs that work on the dropper die is that correct? i'd rather not do a separate order from McMaster carr with their shipping. I'd do will call but who knows when i'll go back to ABQ next.
4. I would much rather deal with the mechanics and leverage issues of a cheaper flipper sensor switch and I can use them with other projects like automatic lights in cabinets and my van etc, any issues using those just direct wired inline with the speed controller to interrupt the positive ? I do understand length and weight an position might be an issue but again CHEAP. and I get switches, the other sensors not so much. i plan on 55gr, 75gr, and 124gr maybe some larger also
Thanks to all the contributors!! and posters here, i'm waiting to here about the latching relay for a quieter reloading room, i'd love to fill the stiff alibaba springs once every 20 boolets instead of every. single. bullet.
I'll probably end up modding my dillon case feeder too with a similar system or replacing it if I buy a bigger 3d printer!
Wow! What percent infill are you using? That's a long ways to print mid air. Picture below is an example of what I usually do: (17 to 20%.....picture is 20%) In case you're curious, I slice with IdeaMaker's gyroid infill pattern, because it slices faster than any other pattern they offer.;)
https://i.postimg.cc/9MW47RsY/IMG-3834.jpg
The spring packet I commented on was ordered from this source: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KO1X0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00
rjz5400
01-23-2022, 06:05 PM
i used the manual suggested 10% for the shell plate and the same pattern as the pictured main body but i guess the % changes the size or something id have to play around with it to see what has the smallest gaps for the top layers when it is important.
its hard to tell but the zoomed out photo is the main body @ 30% infill and the zoomed way in photo is the bullet feed plate #5 at 10% i think the various infill patterns scale in a different way, at least not how i think. Better head to youtube before my next large flat print.
I use CURA and its called cubic subdivision. I swapped those springs for the ones you are using GWS as i only need them for the dies and it is just as cheap to get the whole kit as buyin 10 on mcmaster.
i used the manual suggested 10% for the shell plate and the same pattern as the pictured main body but i guess the % changes the size or something id have to play around with it to see what has the smallest gaps for the top layers when it is important.
its hard to tell but the zoomed out photo is the main body @ 30% infill and the zoomed way in photo is the bullet feed plate #5 at 10% i think the various infill patterns scale in a different way, at least not how i think. Better head to youtube before my next large flat print.
I use CURA and its called cubic subdivision. I swapped those springs for the ones you are using GWS as i only need them for the dies and it is just as cheap to get the whole kit as buyin 10 on mcmaster.
Yup, that's what I found.....I have two sets, and I'll probably never use most of those other springs. Sure like TylerR's feeder dies!
I ordered these Hex Adaptors in 2020, and they worked fine and are in stock at the moment. I DID have to file/grind off the inside of the set screws so they don't stick out. Wasn't too hard. (I clamped a nut on some small needle nosed vise grips....screwed the set screw into the nut, leaving the hex wrench inserted....laid the nut against the side of the grinder wheel....the turned the hex screw into the grinder until it was short enough. That way when the setscrews are unscrewed, the start thread is reset and good.)
https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Shell-Accessory-Hexagonal-Connector/dp/B07K7FKWJC/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_rp_c_4/143-7924645-0133931?pd_rd_w=n9lSj&pf_rd_p=06b98fb3-48f2-4285-83dd-b44d6db145c2&pf_rd_r=7N0R8AQKT2PMX4641SK8&pd_rd_r=4df92283-6590-4838-9074-3024ecc3dd23&pd_rd_wg=JT8yg&pd_rd_i=B07K7FKWJC&psc=1
https://i.postimg.cc/yYqqBD4X/8mm-Hex.png
Okay, I answered the two easy questions.....You need TylerR to answer the next two. ;) I will say I tried the micro lever switches first....I was alway's having to adjust them....PIA, so I looked for another answer.
TylerR
01-23-2022, 09:32 PM
I've been working on designing a PCB (circuit board) that the relay could be soldered onto along with terminal blocks for the connection to the switch, Power supply, motor control, sensor and motor. My thinking is this would make connecting everything simpler and eliminate some of the need to solder wires together and reduce the rats nest in the box. It would also allow things like the sensor to be swapped out easily in the event of a component failure.
I had layed it out based on the old schematic. Trying to determine if it is necessary to change it based on the new wiring diagram.
looks like I could get 20 PCB printed in China pretty cheap. Not sure how long they would take to get here though. I may get a batch of them printed when I finalize things and offer a few of the extras here if there is interest.
Here is what it might look like. Demension are approx 61mm X 47mm
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/1738385b638b2dc383049b26aedb77b9.jpg
I like the concept. For sure. I would say it should be changed to the new concept for the reasons mentioned. Less on/off cycles on the speed controller. Its really a longevity of parts question.
TylerR
01-23-2022, 09:38 PM
I have a few questions i have been reading this thread for a couple weeks and printing a few parts at a time. Im currently about 12 hours into the main body!!
I will share some experience to try to add something and list my questions second.
I am using esun PLA+ on an ender 3 v2 mostly stock with yellow springs. (the light blue is not a good match for dillon blue, in eSun I think between their light and dark would be better)
it prints amazingly well, it does need the height tuned in very tight and i'm running it at 210 65 with fan down from 255 to 101 and off for the first 5 or so layers. i will try to edit with a photo of my main body for your viewing pleasure. I am also in New Mexico shooting 3 gun basically all my reloading is for that.
Also i had no issues installing java on my MAC and running the generator program, although it saved the pdf to my desktop i just moved it into my BF556 folder. 10.13.6 and current java download im guessing. I did have to give it special permission to trust java and the generator JAR and use some JAR opener software i didn't even know was on my computer.
This is good info since I know many people have said they could not get it to work on a mac.
Lastly I did notice a downgrade in the surface of my bullet feed "ramps" leading away from the pockets due to the infill settings having such a wide gap in them, hopefully a picture shows it started printing the tapered ramps in mid air. it eventually piled up and achieved the desired goal but in the future i'll probably choose a "tighter weave" on the infill to better support the top skin layers. again hopefully i can edit for pics.
1. any old 8mm hex couplers can be made to work right? the linked ones are OOS ATM (out of stock At The Moment)
Yes
2. Can a Buck convertor be reliably used to just lower the input Voltage instead of a PMW which pulses power rapidly on off but at 12v? I am using the cheaper 64j3s motor i have a few buck converters laying around already to just do a steady 3 or 6 or 9 or 11v to get a reasonable speed for each caliber
I would believe so, but have not tried it myself.
3. I thought i saw someone (GWS?) say the mix spring kit listed in the current Zip has 10 or so springs that work on the dropper die is that correct? i'd rather not do a separate order from McMaster carr with their shipping. I'd do will call but who knows when i'll go back to ABQ next.
Looks like this one was answered.
4. I would much rather deal with the mechanics and leverage issues of a cheaper flipper sensor switch and I can use them with other projects like automatic lights in cabinets and my van etc, any issues using those just direct wired inline with the speed controller to interrupt the positive ? I do understand length and weight an position might be an issue but again CHEAP. and I get switches, the other sensors not so much. i plan on 55gr, 75gr, and 124gr maybe some larger also
There are micro switch drop tubes in the project. old school.
Thanks to all the contributors!! and posters here, i'm waiting to here about the latching relay for a quieter reloading room, i'd love to fill the stiff alibaba springs once every 20 boolets instead of every. single. bullet.
I'll probably end up modding my dillon case feeder too with a similar system or replacing it if I buy a bigger 3d printer!
That is exactly what I did. My Mongo collator took the place of the dillon case feeder.
.................................................. .................................................. ............................
I'll probably end up modding my dillon case feeder too with a similar system or replacing it if I buy a bigger 3d printer!
That is exactly what I did. My Mongo collator took the place of the dillon case feeder.
That got my attention and my curiosity up! Why? Didn't the Dillon case collator work well? Or is it lacking something....
TylerR
01-23-2022, 10:15 PM
That got my attention and my curiosity up! Why? Didn't the Dillon case collator work well? Or is it lacking something....
Well a few reasons. First the plastic that houses the wiring and such was all cracked, and I had to fix it with glue. worked, but looked ugly. Second, I wanted to be able to do base up brass feeding for bulge busting. Can't do that on the dillon. At the time I though I might use it for bullets too, but that probably wont happen. Mostly, my Mongo just looks way cooler! and I built it, and I can probably sell the dillon for a few bucks.
Lastly I did notice a downgrade in the surface of my bullet feed "ramps" leading away from the pockets due to the infill settings having such a wide gap in them, hopefully a picture shows it started printing the tapered ramps in mid air. it eventually piled up and achieved the desired goal but in the future i'll probably choose a "tighter weave" on the infill to better support the top skin layers. again hopefully i can edit for pics.
Are you referring to ramps, ridges, or slides? I had trouble with holes in the first couple top layers around the interior edges of ridges on collator plates, so I looked at settings in cura for a solution. I have since used minimum infill area when printing collator plates. The ridges will now be printed on top of solid layers. As a bonus, the area around the clutch on shorter plates is no longer a problem either. Just preview after slicing to be sure its not doing something stupid.
295126
ranger391xt
01-24-2022, 01:39 AM
I like the concept. For sure. I would say it should be changed to the new concept for the reasons mentioned. Less on/off cycles on the speed controller. Its really a longevity of parts question.I redesigned the layout based on the new schematic. Was also able to reduce the overall size of the board, 36mm wide by 51 mm long. I've ordered a half dozen boards from a prototyping service. Little more expensive (about 5 bucks a board), but didn't want a bunch of them if they don't work.
Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
TylerR
01-24-2022, 10:35 AM
Looks promising, but that would be two pcbs since the speed control I used has one about the same size. Since I took the collator down today to rewire it I took a picture of the rats nest.;) The only soldering required was the four posts above the blue relay closest in the picture.
As you can see, with the existing pcb and the relay, it's pretty full. So I assume you are thinking TylerR's biggest box? or bigger still? My box that's full already won't handle it, for sure. (pictured below) Now if you could duplicate the speed control pcb only wider to include four holes for the relay, that would be most awesome. :)
I am guessing the biggest advantaged would be taking the guesswork out of wiring it correctly. I know people still have trouble with it. Here you just connect it according to the pcb and it works. But it definitely will take more room in the box. I would think the large box would work fine.
TylerR
01-24-2022, 10:36 AM
I redesigned the layout based on the new schematic. Was also able to reduce the overall size of the board, 36mm wide by 51 mm long. I've ordered a half dozen boards from a prototyping service. Little more expensive (about 5 bucks a board), but didn't want a bunch of them if they don't work.
Nice. Let us know how they turn out.
rjz5400
01-24-2022, 05:42 PM
The part that was scaring me was these in the picture, the little tapers comet tails leading away from the bullet pockets. It turned out ok I think it just printed lots of the first layers into open air. I think it all truned out right. We shall see!
In other news 48 hour prints take a long time!!
So many projects have come and left my mind. Since I started this print.
First round of parts ordered!
rjz5400
01-24-2022, 05:45 PM
It seems as though the linked switches can either be NO or NC depending on which poles you use. Also a comment on Amazon makes me thing the switch resistance can be changed by opening and cutting or changing springs.
I'm gonna try to figure out how to do the "fill the whole tube and wit for the whole tube to empty" setup by running the 2 switches like a 3 way light switch setup. So when both of them are no actuated they run until the top one gets actuated again. And so on.
TylerR
01-24-2022, 05:49 PM
The part that was scaring me was these in the picture, the little tapers comet tails leading away from the bullet pockets. It turned out ok I think it just printed lots of the first layers into open air. I think it all truned out right. We shall see!
That is just the "stepping" based on layer height. If you print at a finer layer height, such as .12mm, that transition will be more gradual. That being said, what you have there will function without issue. I print all my plates at .2mm height.
TylerR
01-24-2022, 05:50 PM
It seems as though the linked switches can either be NO or NC depending on which poles you use. Also a comment on Amazon makes me thing the switch resistance can be changed by opening and cutting or changing springs.
I'm gonna try to figure out how to do the "fill the whole tube and wit for the whole tube to empty" setup by running the 2 switches like a 3 way light switch setup. So when both of them are no actuated they run until the top one gets actuated again. And so on.
Good luck. I am still interested in the double switch, fill the tube all at once approach. Just not going to do the R&D myself.
rjz5400
01-24-2022, 05:54 PM
i found the top layer to be good enough, it was the earlier pic, where my infill had such large gaps and those features started out looking like they wouldn't "come together" before the top surface. luckily they did. i'll use everything the same but a different pattern next time for the infill in cura
RJZ5400: Obviously the picture taken was just a little too soon and the pattern wasn't complete, for it to turn out that well. That it Worked, is the main thing. Great!
TylerR: I was shocked & awed today when UPS brought my shorty long range Proximity Sensor from China more than a week early! That's not normal these days.....
Won't be able to test it for another several days....leaving town today. Maybe it will work better on my tee than the cheapies. Your Tee with the #12 downtube seems to work fine for 223 case feeding.
This is the Autonics PRD18-14DN2. 18 refers to the thread dia.......14 refers to the sensing distance, both in MM.
Was also surprised that the sensor tip is green, not the usual blue or yellow. Of course you all know I have a lot of green on my bench, but unfortunately, Pea Green doesn't go that well.;)
https://i.postimg.cc/tT5VH25Z/IMG-3980.jpg
The length of it only barely fits my Tee, but it'll work I think.....we will see if the added sensitivity improves things, when I get back home.
https://i.postimg.cc/k49tZkxP/IMG-3979.jpg
TylerR
01-25-2022, 11:11 AM
k.....we will see if the added sensitivity improves things, when I get back home.
https://i.postimg.cc/k49tZkxP/IMG-3979.jpg
could you just remove the retaining nut and slide it in further? Mine is designed to just be a friction fit.
could you just removing the retaining nut and slide it in further? Mine is designed to just be a friction fit.
Yeah, mine too. I guess the retaining nut isn't necessary....just a comfort thing that really does nothing.....not like it can unscrew with the cord out the back and wired.
Qeyes
01-25-2022, 02:36 PM
Good luck. I am still interested in the double switch, fill the tube all at once approach. Just not going to do the R&D myself.
This is my take on the wiring of the electrical. I have a forward and reverse switch and a puchbutton to activate reverse.
295226
Home made wiring diagram made in publisher
295227
I was curious to see if I could make it work with two sensors. So it fills bullets until they reach the top sensor and then the engine stops.
Then it starts when the last bullet passed the lower sensor
I made it work but I had to use two relays with NO / NC
I've just tested it on the kitchen table. with the stuff temporarily hooked up
with two sensors
295228
TylerR
01-25-2022, 03:42 PM
This is my take on the wiring of the electrical. I have a forward and reverse switch and a puchbutton to activate reverse.
Home made wiring diagram made in publisher
I was curious to see if I could make it work with two sensors. So it fills bullets until they reach the top sensor and then the engine stops.
Then it starts when the last bullet passed the lower sensor
I made it work but I had to use two relays with NO / NC
I've just tested it on the kitchen table. with the stuff temporarily hooked up
That setup looks very clean, and love the diagrams. A lot more professional then mine.
I would love to see the two sensor system in action once you get it all setup.
Qeyes
01-25-2022, 04:25 PM
That setup looks very clean, and love the diagrams. A lot more professional then mine.
I would love to see the two sensor system in action once you get it all setup.
I do not know if I will use the system with two sensors. It gets very crowded in the electronics box with two relays. I was most curious if I could make it work.
I probably won't rock the proximity sensor boat I have floating now. Too easy to just turn the switch off, and flip it back on when I want some more....that is if the intermittent noise of it dropping one more automatically after every stroke ever gets to me......so far, it doesn't bother me at all.
rjz5400
01-26-2022, 02:06 AM
That's so funny, I came to the same conclusion independently today, although I may switch a little buzzer at the bottom for when there are 3 or 4 bullets left and have the drop tube at the top interrupt power in case I forget to shut it off again.
Idk I'm probably over thinking it while I wait for my china springs
TylerR
01-27-2022, 02:03 PM
I created a mount for anyone who wants to attach the collator to a 1" post directly from the bench.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Bench_Post_1inch.stl
I created a mount for anyone who wants to attach the collator to a 1" post directly from the bench.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/2.%20Mounts/Mount_Bench_Post_1inch.stl
Very nice.....but it never ends.....;)
What do I mean? Well shucks, that base could be a great place to store a set of Allen wrenches....just need some matching holes in it!:) Or how about one for 1" square tubing instead of the round conduit pipe? See? Never ending..... One of these days you may have to just go into hiding....
TylerR
01-27-2022, 04:45 PM
Very nice.....but it never ends.....;)
What do I mean? Well shucks, that base could be a great place to store a set of Allen wrenches....just need some matching holes in it!:) Or how about one for 1" square tubing instead of the round conduit pipe? See? Never ending..... One of these days you may have to just go into hiding....
Haha, that's why I usually just make what I need and share it. But I have done requests also.
rjz5400
01-27-2022, 11:00 PM
I have what may be a dumb question... As payment see the photo, I'm testing using my variable DC power supply if just inputting my geacan motor at 2v and make sure it doesn't heat up or burn up or something. Because buck converters are cheap as hell and very simple I have a few already. So wall wort to buck convertor will give me from 2 3 4 5 6 7on up to the input voltage...
Is there an assembly instruction picture or text? Mostly order of operations and screw sizes. Some of the various features look to be direct thread so I don't really want to wing it if they were designed for a specific thread. I bought the linked metric hardware kit off Amazon.
You can just barely see my clutch in light Dillon blue and the input voltage/amperage. Best geuss is 2 rpm at 2v DC.
Not convinced such a thing is necessary. The first time I needed to reduce speed on a collator, I just replaced the 12V wall wart with a 9V. But that was just an immediate need. Ordered a better PMW speed control which I still use. But that one is no longer available so I won't give the link. However......having just searched again, I found another that even includes a rocker on/off/reverse switch....on a smaller board even. (32x50mm!) I most likely would have tried this if they had been available then. A little lighter duty than the one I have, but mostly will work and last fine if you use a relay.
There is a warning not to reverse polarity though.....center two lugs are positive.
Here's a picture and a link: https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Controller-Adjustable-Reversible-Reversing/dp/B071H2YQG5/ref=bmx_dp_saaq1mtn_6/143-7924645-0133931?pd_rd_w=i57WX&pf_rd_p=862b4b8b-7a18-40e3-a54d-9d43f8d57f92&pf_rd_r=FAZ857WW0ZE2T39PB9FK&pd_rd_r=c99a5d8e-b1b8-4ccd-bf37-c4f50d7c8a0b&pd_rd_wg=kiBCJ&pd_rd_i=B071H2YQG5&psc=1
https://i.postimg.cc/9Qckf7LZ/Screenshot-2022-01-28-at-09-52-07-Rio-Rand-6-V-12-V-24-V-28-V-3-A-80-W-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-PWM-Speed.png
As for your other question, some of that is available in the project manual....but I just used what I had....if it fits.....;)....if not a trip to a hardware store happened.
TylerR
01-28-2022, 01:33 PM
I have what may be a dumb question... As payment see the photo, I'm testing using my variable DC power supply if just inputting my geacan motor at 2v and make sure it doesn't heat up or burn up or something. Because buck converters are cheap as hell and very simple I have a few already. So wall wort to buck convertor will give me from 2 3 4 5 6 7on up to the input voltage...
Is there an assembly instruction picture or text? Mostly order of operations and screw sizes. Some of the various features look to be direct thread so I don't really want to wing it if they were designed for a specific thread. I bought the linked metric hardware kit off Amazon.
You can just barely see my clutch in light Dillon blue and the input voltage/amperage. Best geuss is 2 rpm at 2v DC.
There is no assembly video or guide. Once you print the parts, based on the user manual, assembly is very straight forward. None of the parts are threaded. It is either a screw/bolt or machine screw. To compliment the hardware you got, you may want to pick up an assortment of small machine screws. I use #2 x 1/4" screws for a bunch of things, but also some slightly larger and longer ones.
silahtar
01-30-2022, 12:16 AM
Hi everyone, I now have a regular size unit and a Mongo that works perfectly with my new Pro Chucker 7 station reloader. Cranking 100 rounds in about 5 minutes...!!! I have a suggestion with respect to control box mounting location, don't recall this came up in the past.
Per the first picture I mounted the smaller unit to the Mongo using the hanger, when that happens control box will have to move to the right side of the mongo but that would be far away from my reach, so temporarily I've fixed the control box to the post base. Hopefully, pictures will tell a better story... It turned out to be a great spot for the control box for me...
I've just started working on an in-between piece; if anybody else would be interested I can share with Tyler...
295492295493
P.S. This is what it'll look like, I'll start printing it tomorrow...
295499295500
TylerR
01-30-2022, 06:00 PM
Hi everyone, I now have a regular size unit and a Mongo that works perfectly with my new Pro Chucker 7 station reloader. Cranking 100 rounds in about 5 minutes...!!! I have a suggestion with respect to control box mounting location, don't recall this came up in the past.
Per the first picture I mounted the smaller unit to the Mongo using the hanger, when that happens control box will have to move to the right side of the mongo but that would be far away from my reach, so temporarily I've fixed the control box to the post base. Hopefully, pictures will tell a better story... It turned out to be a great spot for the control box for me...
I've just started working on an in-between piece; if anybody else would be interested I can share with Tyler...
295492295493
P.S. This is what it'll look like, I'll start printing it tomorrow...
Looks great. If anyone is interested I can certainly add it to the contributors folder.
Hi everyone, I now have a regular size unit and a Mongo that works perfectly with my new Pro Chucker 7 station reloader. Cranking 100 rounds in about 5 minutes...!!! I have a suggestion with respect to control box mounting location, don't recall this came up in the past.
Per the first picture I mounted the smaller unit to the Mongo using the hanger, when that happens control box will have to move to the right side of the mongo but that would be far away from my reach, so temporarily I've fixed the control box to the post base. Hopefully, pictures will tell a better story... It turned out to be a great spot for the control box for me...
I've just started working on an in-between piece; if anybody else would be interested I can share with Tyler...
Too late for me, mine are all done. Nice to see another ProChucker 7 owner is into the 3D printing hobby! Thought I was all alone. I would think that would be more common since the "tube" loaders RCBS makes are crying for collators. ;)
The concept and execution looks good tho. Good job! What all have you loaded on that progressive press? Any rifle yet?
silahtar
01-31-2022, 01:11 AM
Too late for me, mine are all done. Nice to see another ProChucker 7 owner is into the 3D printing hobby! Thought I was all alone. I would think that would be more common since the "tube" loaders RCBS makes are crying for collators. ;)
The concept and execution looks good tho. Good job! What all have you loaded on that progressive press? Any rifle yet?
Thanks, started with RCBS Piggyback II conversion on a Rockchucker in 1994, had Pro2000 in between and now Pro Chucker 7. The only issue I have so far is that few kernels of powder tend to jump out of a 9mm case easily. Way messier compared to my Piggyback and Pro2000. So far reloaded .45ACP and .357Mag but around 12k of 9mm, no rifle rounds yet. My rifle shooting is more of a single-stage press activity...
Put this video together for a friend, ignore texts...
https://youtu.be/q8GN3JPSFBU
mktacop
01-31-2022, 10:30 AM
I decided that I wanted the Bullet Feeder Electronics Box mounted in a different location where it was easier to reach. I designed a mount bracket that allows it to be clamped onto either a 1” square tube, or a 1” round tube. I used M6 bolts and nuts since that is what I had on hand.
I glued my electronics box onto the mount, but have since gone back and made it where it would attach with bolts using TylerR’s mounting holes.
I can supply the files if anyone is interested.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220131/877e153cf4a2a90c5c6544d9cba30ac3.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
......
I've just started working on an in-between piece; if anybody else would be interested I can share with Tyler...
P.S. This is what it'll look like, I'll start printing it tomorrow...
295499295500
I like the way it hugs the vertical tube.... not likely my mits would collide and break it.
I plan to share with you some PC7 3d printed stuff, but won't take space on this collator thread....will send a private post....and you are welcome to use or toss what you will.
I'm surprised you have powder kernals flinging around. My PC7 press revolves way smoother than the Pro 2000 I also use. Dillon's and Pro 2000's are noted for flinging powder from shallow cases as well....at least new out of the box. That stick rising into the shell plate holes was designed to mitigate that jerk on revolving to the next station. Somethings not quite right...maybe too tight?
Video is great! You are right, not many loading videos of that press.
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