Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

This is how is works, i think a slideplate that the bullets can glide down on instead of falling of the 90 degrees edge would help. See the one with lead bullets and how they lock up due to tumbeling when falling down. The bulletfeed-die is working really well though! :)



As an experiment you could attach the Brass_Base_Up_Drop_Hole_Adapter to the underside of the slide. This part was designed specifically to feed upside down brass which really wants to flip. It has a much narrower hole, and also runs straight out. Both of those features prevent things from getting hung up. Since the opening is a little smaller you will have to position it correctly on the slide plate.

[Charlie_Sweden]

As an experiment you could attach the Brass_Base_Up_Drop_Hole_Adapter to the underside of the slide. This part was designed specifically to feed upside down brass which really wants to flip. It has a much narrower hole, and also runs straight out. Both of those features prevent things from getting hung up. Since the opening is a little smaller you will have to position it correctly on the slide plate.

I'll give it a try and get back to you. :)

[HunGJaI]

Hey,

Sorry new to this, I extracted the Parts Generator.jar

The "generator" file opens in OpenSCAD, but I don't see the temple shown in the user manual (which program should I open that file with?)

Thanks,

[Charlie_Sweden]

As an experiment you could attach the Brass_Base_Up_Drop_Hole_Adapter to the underside of the slide. This part was designed specifically to feed upside down brass which really wants to flip. It has a much narrower hole, and also runs straight out. Both of those features prevent things from getting hung up. Since the opening is a little smaller you will have to position it correctly on the slide plate.

That seems to work well, I ran alot of bullets without lock-ups.
Could I possibly bother you to make a plate with a hole that fits the "Brass_Base_Up_Drop_Hole_Adapter" and where the hole is 18mm from the inner-edge?

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[Jackbrush]

I think the jar GUI just uses openScad as a engine. At least when i run it I don't get native OpenScad. Make sure you have a java runtime environment. I pulled one down the other day and haven't had any problems with the generator
https://java.com/en/download/windows_manual.jsp

You know, the old collator used to open directly to OpenScad. Are you sure you are using the current code from github? https://github.com/BF556/Feeder

[Charlie_Sweden]

I made a new slideplate for .32S&W Long wadcutter. It seems to work.

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[stanford]

I made a new slideplate for .32S&W Long wadcutter. It seems to work.

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Whats that piece that you have under the feeder that rotates?
https://youtu.be/ZalkQAgeuEs?t=39

[Charlie_Sweden]

Whats that piece that you have under the feeder that rotates?
https://youtu.be/ZalkQAgeuEs?t=39

It's a wheel/flipper/thingy that changes the direction of the wadcutter bullets, the custom collatorplate sends them facing down, but when seating them they need to be facing up. I designed it myself, not part of the awesome downloadable package that TylerR and friends have designed.

[Jackbrush]

Those are live primed rounds right? What do you do with them facing down? Bulge busting?

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[stanford]

It's a wheel/flipper/thingy that changes the direction of the wadcutter bullets, the custom collatorplate sends them facing down, but when seating them they need to be facing up. I designed it myself, not part of the awesome downloadable package that TylerR and friends have designed.

That would be a nice addition to the kit you should post it.

[Charlie_Sweden]

Those are live primed rounds right? What do you do with them facing down? Bulge busting?

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If you’re talking about my .32:s, they’re just bullets.

[Charlie_Sweden]

That would be a nice addition to the kit you should post it.

It’s still a work in progress. But when good enough I’d be happy to post the parts.

[Jackbrush]

If you’re talking about my .32:s, they’re just bullets.I mean from this https://youtu.be/ZalkQAgeuEs?t=39

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[RydForLyf]

I mean from this https://youtu.be/ZalkQAgeuEs?t=39

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Those are just bullets being flipped around.

[Charlie_Sweden]

I ended up designing my own slideplate and adapter, It now works really well.

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[TylerR]

I ended up designing my own slideplate and adapter, It now works really well.

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Looks good. If you care to share let me know. We can add it to the contributors folder with your name on it.

[Charlie_Sweden]

Looks good. If you care to share let me know. We can add it to the contributors folder with your name on it.

Absolutely, I'd be happy to. how do i get the files to you?

This is how the "final" verision looks.

https://youtu.be/VMyTQaUyaEs

https://youtu.be/N5ag-O9wV5Y

[TylerR]

Absolutely, I'd be happy to. how do i get the files to you?

You should be able to drop it in documents folder. I would zip the files up.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sz1o53q1a9hn4vn/AACux-GoKhzdmZUv7MVTx9F7a?dl=0

Do you have details on the motor and wiring for the bullet flipper you have attached? I am sure some people might be interested in that.

[Charlie_Sweden]

You should be able to drop it in documents folder. I would zip the files up.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sz1o53q1a9hn4vn/AACux-GoKhzdmZUv7MVTx9F7a?dl=0

Do you have details on the motor and wiring for the bullet flipper you have attached? I am sure some people might be interested in that.

I do, will make a package with the information needed. :) should be able to upload that within a day or two. :)

[TylerR]

I do, will make a package with the information needed. :) should be able to upload that within a day or two. :)

Very cool. Can the flipper mechanism be used for other calibers, or is it just for .32?

[Charlie_Sweden]

Very cool. Can the flipper mechanism be used for other calibers, or is it just for .32?

Right now, it's sized for .32S&W Long wadcutters. but it should be pretty easy to change dimensions to make it work with other ones.

[Charlie_Sweden]

This is the motor i used:
https://www.amazon.com/Lheng-Miniature-Geared-Motor-Terminal/dp/B07S2KWRWQ

At 12v it spins at the right speed, so i just connected it via a 3-way switch so i can change direction or stop it if a bullet gets lodged.

[FAQdaWorld]

Hi, As you can tell I'm new to here, but I've been following the project for sometime. Unfortunately I've always been hindered by the fact that I was using old files from thingiverse! This community was a nice surprise and I will be sure to poke around a bit! Could anyone help with an issue that I am experiencing with the Parts Generator?

When I try to use the Parts Generator (The latest from github), I select the parts I want, and choose my directory. However, When I click 'start', nothing seems to complete. The progress bar moves constantly left and right, and it creates a Zip in the desired directory that is 0kb. However I have left this running for hours and nothing completes or progresses further.

I have downloaded the latest Java runtimes, as well as openscad. I am running Windows 10 Pro, on an i7 and 16gigs of ram. Any thoughts? I must be missing something stupid is the only thing I can figure!

[TylerR]

Hi, As you can tell I'm new to here, but I've been following the project for sometime. Unfortunately I've always been hindered by the fact that I was using old files from thingiverse! This community was a nice surprise and I will be sure to poke around a bit! Could anyone help with an issue that I am experiencing with the Parts Generator?

When I try to use the Parts Generator (The latest from github), I select the parts I want, and choose my directory. However, When I click 'start', nothing seems to complete. The progress bar moves constantly left and right, and it creates a Zip in the desired directory that is 0kb. However I have left this running for hours and nothing completes or progresses further.

I have downloaded the latest Java runtimes, as well as openscad. I am running Windows 10 Pro, on an i7 and 16gigs of ram. Any thoughts? I must be missing something stupid is the only thing I can figure!

Are you working off the absolute latest on github?

[FAQdaWorld]

Are you working off the absolute latest on github?

I am yes, I even redownloaded it for a 3rd time just to make sure!

I did find a solution however! The Parts Generator doesn't seem to like it (at least on my computer) that I was using an alternate location for it to create the zip files, or maybe It was suppose to be in the same folder as the distribution all along! Either way, when I kept the Project Location the same it worked just fine and only took a few seconds. That's been bugging me for a few days now, but now its time to go to bed!

Thanks for the help TylerR!

[GWS]

Tyler.....did you ever get Charlie Sweden's files on his powered flipper? I have to admit that is simpler than my nose down affair. I can design my own, but I'm starting to get lazy, I guess. Would like to print out his little tool which is similar to others of like design, but 3D printable.

I've been laid back for a month....too hot here to care about much.....looking forward to the fall and nicer temperatures. Going to mountains in Colorado 120 miles north this weekend to get out of this NM heat......

[djgas]

Can someone turn attachment of motor JGY 90dg. counterclockwise-view from top,pls?
I need to use mount on rear side,but there is a motor…

[ranger391xt]

Tyler.....did you ever get Charlie Sweden's files on his powered flipper? I have to admit that is simpler than my nose down affair. I can design my own, but I'm starting to get lazy, I guess. Would like to print out his little tool which is similar to others of like design, but 3D printable.

I've been laid back for a month....too hot here to care about much.....looking forward to the fall and nicer temperatures. Going to mountains in Colorado 120 miles north this weekend to get out of this NM heat......i came across a flipper of similar design out on thingiverse awhile back. here is the link of you want to take a look.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3675313.

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[TylerR]

Can someone turn attachment of motor JGY 90dg. counterclockwise-view from top,pls?
I need to use mount on rear side,but there is a motor…

I will rotate it 45 degrees for you.

Here ya go:
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Main_Body_JGY370.stl

[djgas]

I will rotate it 45 degrees for you.

Here ya go:
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/1.%20Main%20Body/Main_Body_JGY370.stl

Thank you!!!

[GWS]

i came across a flipper of similar design out on thingiverse awhile back. here is the link of you want to take a look.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3675313.

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Thankyou.....will take a look.

[TylerR]

Thankyou.....will take a look.

I sent you an email my friend.

[GWS]

Thank you.

Been hearing some noise on THR.org that the newer Lee APP's are less likely to launch rifle cases across the room for house cat entertainment. Not sure what they changed......

[Jackbrush]

I just bought one from midwayusa last week and it launches my 9mm brass sometimes. I think its just the way you set it up

That or I bought an old one

[kayala]

Is anyone able to run parts generator on OSX ? I can see the screen, set path to openscad executable but when I try to preview a plate I get null pointer exception :(

[wbbh]

Is anyone able to run parts generator on OSX ? I can see the screen, set path to openscad executable but when I try to preview a plate I get null pointer exception :(

I run OS X and am interested in the answer. I used a Windows box to run the generator. I did research the error for os x and found one, almost too simple solution, resetting your Mac PRAM and NVPRAM. I always try the simplest solutions first.

This is the place I found the discussion of the same error:

https://stackoverflow.com/questions/53216725/mac-os-and-java-lang-nullpointerexception-at-java-awt-window-initwindow-java49

Resetting NVRAM/PRAM: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063

This is my search criteria link. (https://www.google.com/search?q=null+pointer+exception+java+os+x&newwindow=1&client=safari&rls=en&ei=R8YwYfjIJPKrwbkP3fqt6Aw&oq=null+pointer+exception+java+os+x&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyBQghEKsCMgUIIRCrAjIFCCEQqwI 6BwgAEEcQsAM6BwgAELADEEM6BQgAEIAEOgYIABAKEEM6BwgAE IAEEAo6BggAEBYQHjoFCCEQoAFKBAhBGABQ8G5Y5JwBYMCfAWg BcAJ4AIABiQGIAaMGkgEDOS4xmAEAoAEByAEKwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwi4iIjsp-DyAhXyVTABHV19C80Q4dUDCA4&uact=5)

[Jackbrush]

Did that work? I know Java is supposed to be OS agnostic but my first guess would be a Virtual box with windows would be required. Im curious if this is a Darwin only issue and if other distros have any issues

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[kayala]

No NVRAM reset didn't work for me. I've ran parts generator from the directory where it's located and get following exception (bottom of stack trace) - looks like it can't find some specific STL file.

Caused by: java.lang.NullPointerException
at partsgenerator.PartsWindowController.getSTLFile(Pa rtsWindowController.java:1204)
... 59 more

[Jackbrush]

Its the same error as the stack link but that doesn't mean its the same area. Anyway if it is the graphics then I would try it in a virtual box, or linux of some type.

Nvm use Wine. Ive used it for things in the part and it worked really well.

[o416]

Haven't posted here in a while. Just wanted to say hello and I am very happy to see that this project is still going strong :)

Peace and love from Canada!

[TylerR]

Its the same error as the stack link but that doesn't mean its the same area. Anyway if it is the graphics then I would try it in a virtual box, or linux of some type.

Nvm use Wine. Ive used it for things in the part and it worked really well.

I have a guy working on it right now. I would do it myself but just too dang busy.

[kayala]

Just an update: tried to run it in VMBox Ubuntu 20, java 11 + openjfx. Application runs but get same exception as for OSX. I suspect it might be path separator character - if it's hardcoded for windows systems it'll produce invalid path on unix.

[TylerR]

Just an update: tried to run it in VMBox Ubuntu 20, java 11 + openjfx. Application runs but get same exception as for OSX. I suspect it might be path separator character - if it's hardcoded for windows systems it'll produce invalid path on unix.

That is the issue. I am looking at it now.

[TylerR]

Here are Charlie Sweeden's parts for anyone looking for them.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/9.%20Contributors/Charlie_Sweden_32_SW_Long.zip

[paflyfisher]

TylerR
Thanks for all your hard work. I can only imagine how long it must have taken to get all those files done... Again...
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!
I'm not real good with this 3d printing, but have been running my ender for over a week now, and still not close to done... I have tried to pint the 9mm bullet feed dies at least 10 times, followed all your settings... turned it on it's side... can't get a good print. Using matchbox PLA and cura slicer... any suggestions?

[Jackbrush]

That's too broad of a question to help put in any specific way. So heres a broad answer, make sure the printers tuned. Follow teaching techs site and make sure everything's acceptable https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Once you've done that compare your print to the pictures in here and follow the advice
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

[wbbh]

TylerR


Cura has a lot of settings for your specific printer and the filament you use. It took me several tests to get things dialed in. Bed leveling of your printer is critical.

I ended up using Sunlu PLA filament that was pretty forgiving, not so with the Overture brand PETG I tried and gave up on for now.

There is a ton of testing prints built into Cura, but they need the post-processing scripts, also built-in. I learned about them watching video from this YouTube guy, CHEP:

https://www.youtube.com/user/beginnerelectronics/videos

[ranger391xt]

Has anyone else used the APP Brass Insert for 40? I have printed it twice and my fired 40 cases will not go through it freely. I can push them through with a rod/pencil/etc., so it's just a hair too small. Seems like maybe it needs to be opened up half a mm or so.

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[TylerR]

Has anyone else used the APP Brass Insert for 40? I have printed it twice and my fired 40 cases will not go through it freely. I can push them through with a rod/pencil/etc., so it's just a hair too small. Seems like maybe it needs to be opened up half a mm or so.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

I will take a look at it and can open it up if needed. What were your print settings?

[TylerR]

Has anyone else used the APP Brass Insert for 40? I have printed it twice and my fired 40 cases will not go through it freely. I can push them through with a rod/pencil/etc., so it's just a hair too small. Seems like maybe it needs to be opened up half a mm or so.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

I will take a look at it and can open it up if needed. What were your print settings?

[ranger391xt]

I will take a look at it and can open it up if needed. What were your print settings?0.12mm Layer Height
2 Walls
20% Infill

Printed it with both Sunlu Grass Green PLA and Sunlu Black PLA+ with same results at temperature settings that I have found to be optimal for each based on various calibration tests.

For info My fired brass measures between 11 and 11.1 mm, shot from an S&W 4006. I'm guessing cases with the so called "glock bulge" could measure even larger.

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[Jackbrush]

Whats the prints dimensions? They're never exactly what you want

[TylerR]

0.12mm Layer Height
2 Walls
20% Infill

Printed it with both Sunlu Grass Green PLA and Sunlu Black PLA+ with same results at temperature settings that I have found to be optimal for each based on various calibration tests.

For info My fired brass measures between 11 and 11.1 mm, shot from an S&W 4006. I'm guessing cases with the so called "glock bulge" could measure even larger.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

I just bumped up the inner diameter from 11.2mm to 11.5mm. That should provide plenty of clearance. If there are issues still, I would suggest running a round file through it for a few passes.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/8.%20APP/APP_Brass_Insert_40.stl

[dverna]

I have found someone to print what I need as I could not justify buying a 3D printer. I have downloaded JRE but when I try to open the Parts Generator to get the files I need, nothing happens.

Any advice appreciated.

[wbbh]

I have found someone to print what I need as I could not justify buying a 3D printer. I have downloaded JRE but when I try to open the Parts Generator to get the files I need, nothing happens.

Any advice appreciated.

Did you download and install Java?

https://www.java.com/en/

[Jackbrush]

JRE and java are synonymous. JRE stands for Java Runtime Environment.

what operating system are you using? When you say nothing, you mean nothing flashes on screen or anything, the task manager doesn't have a process running for the generator? I would try removing the JRE and reinstalling it. If that doesn't work if your on windows run it in administrator mode or on linux run it with super user privileges

we should have a issue template or something in the sticky. too often do we get people saying something doesn't work and nothing else and then asking for people to solve their problems. This isn't enough to go on.

[dverna]

JRE and java are synonymous. JRE stands for Java Runtime Environment.

what operating system are you using? When you say nothing, you mean nothing flashes on screen or anything, the task manager doesn't have a process running for the generator? I would try removing the JRE and reinstalling it. If that doesn't work if your on windows run it in administrator mode or on linux run it with super user privileges

we should have a issue template or something in the sticky. too often do we get people saying something doesn't work and nothing else and then asking for people to solve their problems. This isn't enough to go on.

Running Windows 10. Heck, I do not know how to explain it any better. Sucks to be ignorant. Will see if my son can help.

[greekman]

hey tylerR just looked at the files at gethub never been on site how do i download the whole batch last download for me was google drive thanks

[TylerR]

hey tylerR just looked at the files at gethub never been on site how do i download the whole batch last download for me was google drive thanks

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[GWS]

Running Windows 10. Heck, I do not know how to explain it any better. Sucks to be ignorant. Will see if my son can help.

I feel your pain! I always thought I was computer literate, but this Java and Jar file I don't understand either.....I couldn't make it work..... I click the "jar" file and I get a picture on the screen showing the bullet/case feeder project, and the APP stuff, but I check boxes I want and click "start" and a green light goes back and forth forever.....nothing happens......so I look at the top of the "Jar" screen and it says it can't find the project directory.......well, I can't find it either.... no instructions on creating a "project" either.....Chinese to me..... I don't read minds well.....maybe this is for programmers.... I'm certainly not one of those.

[dverna]

I feel your pain! I always thought I was computer literate, but this Java and Jar file I don't understand either.....I couldn't make it work..... I click the "jar" file and I get a picture on the screen showing the bullet/case feeder project, and the APP stuff, but I check boxes I want and click "start" and a green light goes back and forth forever.....nothing happens......so I look at the top of the "Jar" screen and it says it can't find the project directory.......well, I can't find it either.... no instructions on creating a "project" either.....Chinese to me..... I don't read minds well.....maybe this is for programmers....certainly not one of those.

THANK YOU!!

I have a degree in Mech Eng and a Masters degree, so figure I must be a wee bit above stupid. Now, in all honesty, those degrees are decades old so might not mean much now. I am leaning towards just buying a system that works from Double Alpha. Luckily I was able to make a few dollars along the way and do not need to deal with the frustration of the learning curve this is presenting.

Maybe next time my son is here I will see if he can figure it out. He was reading the DOS manual when he was 10 years old so knows his way around computers. But my gut is telling me $600 for the commercial unit is what I should do.

[TylerR]

THANK YOU!!

I have a degree in Mech Eng and a Masters degree, so figure I must be a wee bit above stupid. Now, in all honesty, those degrees are decades old so might not mean much now. I am leaning towards just buying a system that works from Double Alpha. Luckily I was able to make a few dollars along the way and do not need to deal with the frustration of the learning curve this is presenting.

Maybe next time my son is here I will see if he can figure it out. He was reading the DOS manual when he was 10 years old so knows his way around computers. But my gut is telling me $600 for the commercial unit is what I should do.

Wait! Java should not be the issue that dissuades you. Printing a collator is so easy a monkey can do it.

[Jackbrush]

If engineering is something you've done 3d printing should be at the very least mildly interesting. Just being able to replace cheap ****ty plastic parts that break is wild.

Maybe the JRE didn't install correctly. It wouldnt be the first time I had to reinstall Java.

[dverna]

Wait! Java should not be the issue that dissuades you. Printing a collator is so easy a monkey can do it.

Good one!!

This old monkey seems dumber than most when it comes to this.

BTW, you have done a fantastic job and I realize my issues are due to my ignorance. Most folks are getting the job done. I am not criticizing at all.

[silahtar]

Started a 2d feeder to match my lee setups .. Also trying the app parts in resin . They look really good

Resin works the best for smaller parts in my opinion... Never had to fit anything when parts printed with resin...

[paflyfisher]

Any chance someone cn post a pic of the bullet feed finished,,,, I got a bunch of parts, but not sue if I'm putting them where they need to go, or if I have them all......
thanks

Terp

[kayala]

Good one!!

This old monkey seems dumber than most when it comes to this.

BTW, you have done a fantastic job and I realize my issues are due to my ignorance. Most folks are getting the job done. I am not criticizing at all.

The project you’ve downloaded already has pretty much all STL files (you process them with slicing application like Cura, or I use slic3r). Just check the manual it has very good explanation on what parts you need to print, find corresponding STL file and voila. I’ve started conversation about Java because I wanted to generate a custom plate and had issues related to OS (I think), if you need “standard” one provided STL files should do.

[wbbh]

Any chance someone cn post a pic of the bullet feed finished,,,, I got a bunch of parts, but not sue if I'm putting them where they need to go, or if I have them all......
thanks

Terp

There is a set of photographs in the "Images" folder of the zip file.

The user manual, (User Manual_v3.0.pdf) has several pictures and circuit diagrams that help too.

This is a short video of one of the collators I've printed and assembled: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sbx6oDoYCdM

[GWS]

Actually, TylerR is right. This monkey bought a $500 Creality last year a month ago (now $425), and I've printed 2 bullet feeders and a case feeder just fine without Java. I've been designing homes and buildings (even a grocery store) on Autocad for 40 years...built my first cad computer with a soldering iron (Heath Kit) because I couldn't buy one powerful enough for Cad back then. (I was the first Cad designer in my area....see how old I am?;)) I tell you that because that's ancient history....I'm much dumber now. Not only Java challenged, but Git challenged as well. But I get by so far, and when TylerR doesn't make what I want to print, I make my own .stl's with Autocad.

I would like to learn Java and the little app on TylerR's downloads....but somebody will have to show me how. But I don't HAVE to have that.

But Dverna, the thing about buying a 3D printer is you can print many things for that $425. You buy the commercial bullet feeder and you spend more than that and it's just one. Then spend another bunch of money for a case feeder.

A roll of plastic is 20 to 25 dollars, and you can print a whole collator and plate with one roll. Buy a motor and a switch and you're on your way. Want to add a caliber? Another caliber plate will cost you 5 hours and 5 dollars worth of plastic....add a caliber with the DAA and get ready to cringe.....expensive, want another caliber.....repeat cringe. I know ...... my MD doctor brother has a DAA, and now he wants me to design and 3d print some plates for him ... that purchase keeps on soaking him. Great product, but expensive as hell.

So look what I have for the one big purchase, my printer, and a few little easy ones:


https://youtu.be/uvBFV1FeZz8
bullet feeder above has a clutch. Notice the one bullet hangs (redesigned the ramp to stop that) but TylerR's clutch saves the day, this is the real world....hangs can happen....the clutch keeps the motor from binding.

Case feeder below (works every bit as good as Dillon's):

https://youtu.be/OEnDlvP7HeM

Once you get the printer and print those, then you can branch out and make parts for other things, like I did for my Pro 2000 when I made a lights and camera add on:


https://youtu.be/nkFjaRr1kvo

It keeps on giving......not soaking. :)

So once you get a printer and get past that short learning curve, ask lots of questions. (I first printed a T Rex for my grandson) then decide what you want first. If a Bullet Feeder......

1. Print a Collator body. Ask TylerR or one of us which file to print .....
2. Decide what you want to collate first, Rifle? or Pistol? and what caliber...
3. Print a bullet plate, a clutch and a slide for that caliber .... questions on which .stls to print? Just ask here.
4. Order electrical parts, and Print a Switch box.
5. Decide how you want to mount the collator and we will help you with that. (there's more than one way to mount it)
6. Buy a power supply or use a 12V wall wart you already have.

Like I said, I only started a year ago.....doesn't take long to get pretty good at it. Not nearly as good as TylerR, but he's had a lot more years under his belt. ;)

Once you have a printer ordered, download one of the free slicers, like Cura or my personal favorite, IdeaMaker. Slicer choice is a personal thing.......for me and the way I think and process behind the eyes, Idea Maker was easier to learn....for me just organized better. But Cura probably has lot's more users......perhaps I'm sort of a divergent.

The process is to download a print file (.stl) then open it on your slicer, then slice it, once you set the settings. (and we can help you with that, and/or you can look at a lot of videos about slicing on YouTube...not that hard). Then once sliced, you save it to disk where it becomes a Gcode file, that your 3D printer can read and print from. Copy that file to an SD card and plug it into your printer and print away.

[Jackbrush]

3d printers are $200 bucks, old man

[GWS]

That's true, if you want to limit yourself with a small bed. Some of the non-collator things I had planned to print wouldn't fit on such. Tyler's "Mongo" size collator doesn't even fit on mine....or his, until he bought a new second Creality Machine that prints 350mm X 350mm for $570. I would've bought that one had it been offered then.

Mine prints 300x300x400, TylerR's new Ender 5 Plus prints 350x350x450. But I'm happy enough with mine....big bed on a much smaller footprint. But if I shot anything bigger than .308 I'd probably want to print a "Mongo" case feeder and need an Ender 5 plus.

I admitted to being old, already.....you will get there soon enough.....unless you disrespect the wrong person at the wrong time.;)

[Jackbrush]

220x220 has been enough for everything I've printed so far. Before the collator I never even thought about expanding. Im probably not expanding at this point.

Whats the benefit of the mondo collator with > 308 brass? I thought it just held more brass. Is it a pain in the ass to keep the normal collator filled at that size? I thought I saw the mondo wasn't recommended because it eats up motors anyway.

[TylerR]

220x220 has been enough for everything I've printed so far. Before the collator I never even thought about expanding. Im probably not expanding at this point.

Whats the benefit of the mondo collator with > 308 brass? I thought it just held more brass. Is it a pain in the ass to keep the normal collator filled at that size? I thought I saw the mondo wasn't recommended because it eats up motors anyway.

Where did you hear the MONGO eats up motors? I use the ETZGMP38 motor and have absolutely no issues at all.

I will leave this here to clear up the naming confusion.
https://media.giphy.com/media/l0K4pbsfZgDgxmTNC/giphy.gif

[wbbh]

GWS is correct, why get a golden egg when you can get the goose that lays golden eggs?

I'm 71 going on 72 and figured this out. Between the help here, YouTube videos and a willingness to experiment I'm getting good results, not perfect, but good enough.

3D printing can become addictive, so far I've printed five collator bodies, built all three control designs, microswitch, proximity and light sensor then another one using the electronic relay controlled by the microswitch. I ended up buying a Lee APP to use a dedicated brass collator. As I type this message I am printing a ball bearing handle design for the APP that I found on thingiverse.com.

To use up odd ends of filament, I've printed Dillon 750 and 1050 case feed stops and anti-wobble plastic pins for loading 9mm cases on a Dillon presses. I gave a bag full of them to my local indoor and outdoor ranges. They have several Dillons to supply range ammo.

Unnecessary for making a collator, but still interesting I am exploring printer settings, there are a ton of them and many tests built into Cura.

I'm not a CAD person, I had used Microstation to do minor corrections/changes, but that software had enough tools and features to make my head spin. An online buddy put me on to a free/non-commercial download of Fusion, but I found an even simpler way to begin, Tinkercad (https://www.tinkercad.com/dashboard). I used Tinkercad to design and print a flanged bushing that fits in a Dillon toolhead and hold the camera of a flex bore camera. I use the screen to very powder drop into a case.

[Jackbrush]

I think I skimmed over the overview on the MONGO section gleaned that from this line


We do not recommend using it for large scale bullet collation due to the risk of overloading the motor


I imagine I just didn't read it thoroughly because I'm not building one.

[TylerR]

I think I skimmed over the overview on the MONGO section gleaned that from this line


I imagine I just didn't read it thoroughly because I'm not building one.

Ahh ok. I will probably remove that line, as it is really not necessary. Mongo is really better suited to case collation. since it has such a large capacity, it would be overkill for bullets.

[robpiat]

I'm setting up one with a microswitch and curious how others have mounted the switch to the drop tube. Only one hole lines up and it will need some shims or spacers. If you have a pic that would be helpful!

[dverna]

Actually, TylerR is right. This monkey bought a $500 Creality last year a month ago (now $425), and I've printed 2 bullet feeders and a case feeder just fine without Java. I've been designing homes and buildings (even a grocery store) on Autocad for 40 years...built my first cad computer with a soldering iron (Heath Kit) because I couldn't buy one powerful enough for Cad back then. (I was the first Cad designer in my area....see how old I am?;)) I tell you that because that's ancient history....I'm much dumber now. Not only Java challenged, but Git challenged as well. But I get by so far, and when TylerR doesn't make what I want to print, I make my own .stl's with Autocad.

I would like to learn Java and the little app on TylerR's downloads....but somebody will have to show me how. But I don't HAVE to have that.

But Dverna, the thing about buying a 3D printer is you can print many things for that $425. You buy the commercial bullet feeder and you spend more than that and it's just one. Then spend another bunch of money for a case feeder.

A roll of plastic is 20 to 25 dollars, and you can print a whole collator and plate with one roll. Buy a motor and a switch and you're on your way. Want to add a caliber? Another caliber plate will cost you 5 hours and 5 dollars worth of plastic....add a caliber with the DAA and get ready to cringe.....expensive, want another caliber.....repeat cringe. I know ...... my MD doctor brother has a DAA, and now he wants me to design and 3d print some plates for him ... that purchase keeps on soaking him. Great product, but expensive as hell.

So look what I have for the one big purchase, my printer, and a few little easy ones:


https://youtu.be/uvBFV1FeZz8
bullet feeder above has a clutch. Notice the one bullet hangs (redesigned the ramp to stop that) but TylerR's clutch saves the day, this is the real world....hangs can happen....the clutch keeps the motor from binding.

Case feeder below (works every bit as good as Dillon's):

https://youtu.be/OEnDlvP7HeM

Once you get the printer and print those, then you can branch out and make parts for other things, like I did for my Pro 2000 when I made a lights and camera add on:


https://youtu.be/nkFjaRr1kvo

It keeps on giving......not soaking. :)

So once you get a printer and get past that short learning curve, ask lots of questions. (I first printed a T Rex for my grandson) then decide what you want first. If a Bullet Feeder......

1. Print a Collator body. Ask TylerR or one of us which file to print .....
2. Decide what you want to collate first, Rifle? or Pistol? and what caliber...
3. Print a bullet plate, a clutch and a slide for that caliber .... questions on which .stls to print? Just ask here.
4. Order electrical parts, and Print a Switch box.
5. Decide how you want to mount the collator and we will help you with that. (there's more than one way to mount it)
6. Buy a power supply or use a 12V wall wart you already have.

Like I said, I only started a year ago.....doesn't take long to get pretty good at it. Not nearly as good as TylerR, but he's had a lot more years under his belt. ;)

Once you have a printer ordered, download one of the free slicers, like Cura or my personal favorite, IdeaMaker. Slicer choice is a personal thing.......for me and the way I think and process behind the eyes, Idea Maker was easier to learn....for me just organized better. But Cura probably has lot's more users......perhaps I'm sort of a divergent.

The process is to download a print file (.stl) then open it on your slicer, then slice it, once you set the settings. (and we can help you with that, and/or you can look at a lot of videos about slicing on YouTube...not that hard). Then once sliced, you save it to disk where it becomes a Gcode file, that your 3D printer can read and print from. Copy that file to an SD card and plug it into your printer and print away.

GWS,
Thanks for the post, the videos....and the encouragement.

When I could not get the Java thing to work, I went through the manual and picked out the files I needed and if I decide to try this I will heed your advice to check here to make sure I have all the correct files. Tyler has put together a great manual that "even a cave man" can figure out.

Before the current crisis, I shot thousands of rounds of cast bullets a year. 80% .38 Spl and 20% 9mm. I use a Dillon 1050 for those calibers so the only upgrade I wanted was a bullet feeder. What has kept me from "pulling the trigger" has been (rumored) potential issues with lubed bullets not playing well with the bullet feeder. And I have over 20k lubed bullets to load. Also, I have no interest in PC'ed bullets so whatever I get must work with lubed bullets.

I was planning to purchase a Double Alpha feeder die and hand feed it to see if it worked with lubed bullets. If folks here can confirm the bullet feeder Tyler has come up with works on lubed bullets that answers a critical question. I am prepared, and would prefer, to buy a 3D printed bullet seater from someone if they would be kind enough to make one for .38 bullets. Once I know lubed bullets will not cause issues, I can move forward.

In fact, if someone is interested in selling/bartering the 3D printed bits and pieces for a complete unit, that would be of interest. I can handle the mechanical and electrical work to set it up.

[GWS]

Maybe on this particular forum, I shouldn't admit this, but I have never made or shot a Boolit, lubed or otherwise.;) It just so happens that this thread is THE thread for 3D printed collators, feeder dies, and APP parts. I plan to print and try the 3D feeder dies, but I haven't got to that yet, mainly because I have several Hornady pistol bullet feeder dies, and the new awesome RCBS rifle feeder dies for both .223 and .308. But I plan on printing a few of those yet....I have the ball bearings bought. (btw the RCBS rifle feeder dies are ball bearing actuated....4 balls compared to TylerR's 2 ball plastic versions.

So all that said and admitted to, others will have to tell you whether or not it works with lubed.......if it does, surely they would have to be cleaned a lot to keep them working????

I'm sure several people here are willing to help you with what files you need....TylerR especially knows it all....after all 95 percent of this is his designs. When I can help I will. If you post and don't get an answer fast enough send a private message, or post again. We don't always catch everything though TylerR almost achieves that.

Sounds like you aren't really enamored with buying a printer, and these designs are for personal use not to be marketed and sold. See the patent information. But you say a son prints? That might work....

[Jackbrush]

Ive never used lube myself but I think it hardens to a point where its not greasy but that doesn't mean its not messy. Powder coating gang rise up though.

This is the forefront thread of collators I think.

How did you end up with the project @TylerR ? Wasnt this ammo mikes? I didnt get involved until recently and when I did all the info I found was about DAA sending Mike a cease and desist. Then a couple days after I read that I found this thread.

[GWS]

I think Mike got in trouble when he started encouraging sales.....also he only did the one small original size. But he still gets credit and thanks for starting the 3D printed collator movement. I have one of his collator designs too.....but only for personal use.

TylerR has two collator bases, large and Mongo. But we still use Ammo Mike's idea using OpenScad programmer cad to print many caliber dependent bullet/case collator plates.

And also TylerR does APP caliber quick change, with awesome 3Dprinted upgrades, having parts for the case/bullet shuttle and case/bullet feeding.

I (and others) have also found many other uses for 3D printed "reloading" parts for the hobby. I've improved RCBS's case feeder for their Pro Chucker presses, and made LED lighting video camera supports for progressives too. Even a shelf-mounted Mirror holder for to see into the high collators. And this is probably going to be the tip of the iceberg. Can't wait for the next idea.....;) Maybe yours....

[TylerR]

I think Mike got in trouble when he started encouraging sales.....also he only did the one small original size. But he still gets credit and thanks for starting the 3D printed collator movement. I have one of his collator designs too.....but only for personal use.

TylerR has two collator bases, large and Mongo. But we still use Ammo Mike's idea using OpenScad programmer cad to print many caliber dependent bullet/case collator plates.

And also TylerR does APP caliber quick change, with awesome 3Dprinted upgrades, having parts for the case/bullet shuttle and case/bullet feeding.

I (and others) have also found many other uses for 3D printed "reloading" parts for the hobby. I've improved RCBS's case feeder for their Pro Chucker presses, and made LED lighting video camera supports for progressives too. Even a shelf-mounted Mirror holder for to see into the high collators. And this is probably going to be the tip of the iceberg. Can't wait for the next idea.....;) Maybe yours....

Thanks GWS.
Lets not forget the slip clutch, feeding of very long bullets, bulge busting case feeding, all of the bullet feeder dies. Oh and the collator mounted proximity sensor drop tube. Oh wait, that was your idea! :)

Did we mention the awesome user manual or the parts generator? :wink: Thanks 0416!

[o416]

Thanks GWS.
Lets not forget the slip clutch, feeding of very long bullets, bulge busting case feeding, all of the bullet feeder dies. Oh and the collator mounted proximity sensor drop tube. Oh wait, that was your idea! :)

Did we mention the awesome user manual or the parts generator? :wink: Thanks 0416!

Right back at you big guy :)

[GWS]

Did we mention the awesome user manual or the parts generator? :wink: Thanks 0416!

That's something that I was trying to accomplish.....but I failed.....then a smarter guy showed up, and bingo.......the glue that holds this whole project together! I personally think that if RCBS could hire 0416 to organize them and write their manuals, they'd blow everybody else away.....

Addition: I thought about that last night, and decided they might need TylerR's design skills too.....a super team...;)

[stanford]

That's something that I was trying to accomplish.....but I failed.....then a smarter guy showed up, and bingo.......the glue that holds this whole project together! I personally think that if RCBS could hire 0416 to organize them and write their manuals, they'd blow everybody else away.....

Addition: I thought about that last night, and decided they might need TylerR's design skills too.....a super team...;)

I would 100% agree with that statement, I have never seen a manual written so in depth like 0416 did.

[dverna]

Good news!!!

One of the "Collator Gang" has taken pity on me, and is sending a bullet drop die to evaluate with lubed bullets. I have been using commercial cast bullets with "hard" lube and will see how this works out and report back. My fall back is to put a coat of BLL on the bullets if lube build up causes problems. BLL dries to a slicker coat. I have enough Johnson One-Step to make enough BLL to last about 25 years...LOL.

Actually, I am OK with having to clean the bullet die every 2000 rounds or so if it works. I rarely load more than 2000 rounds at a time so not a big deal.

Would mineral spirits be safe to clean the part? I am thinking of immersing it in a vibratory cleaner to clean it.

I have read that PLA filament is bio-degradable. That does not give a warm fuzzy feeling.

[Jackbrush]

Really depends on what material it was printed in. For instance, acetone will dissolve ABS but to PETG it wont. PLA reacts to acetone too. I would imagine most solvents would be a bad idea though but thats just me being lazy. Id print the die again if i had to clean it.

PLA is biodegradeable but its like 50 years or so. This stuffs not meant to last forever though, and that's a good thing.

[TylerR]

Good news!!!

One of the "Collator Gang" has taken pity on me, and is sending a bullet drop die to evaluate with lubed bullets. I have been using commercial cast bullets with "hard" lube and will see how this works out and report back. My fall back is to put a coat of BLL on the bullets if lube build up causes problems. BLL dries to a slicker coat. I have enough Johnson One-Step to make enough BLL to last about 25 years...LOL.

Actually, I am OK with having to clean the bullet die every 2000 rounds or so if it works. I rarely load more than 2000 rounds at a time so not a big deal.

Would mineral spirits be safe to clean the part? I am thinking of immersing it in a vibratory cleaner to clean it.

I have read that PLA filament is bio-degradable. That does not give a warm fuzzy feeling.

Most plastics are not going to handle solvents very well. PLA pro is plenty strong in general, and as stated above is going to give plenty of service life. As far as cleaning lube out, I would just hit it with a brass or plastic cleaning brush if it were me. Even a bit of sandpaper or a round file would work. It should be in your hands soon so you can experiment and let us know.

Edited to add: If it is truly the "hard" type lube, I don't see it building up too much. But I could be wrong.

[mktacop]

I just got turned on to this thread last night and have already started downloading/printing files. This is AWESOME!

I have a question about the collator plates though. When I go to download any of them, I get data like this...
solid OpenSCAD_Model
facet normal -0.999506 -0.031438 0
outer loop
vertex 15.9763 0.753486 -7.1
vertex 15.9684 1.00465 -2.5
vertex 15.9684 1.00465 -7.1
endloop
endfacet
facet normal -0.999506 -0.0314383 -0
outer loop
vertex 16 0 -2.5
vertex 15.9763 0.753486 -7.1
vertex 16 0 -7.1


What am I doing wrong?

[TylerR]

I just got turned on to this thread last night and have already started downloading/printing files. This is AWESOME!

I have a question about the collator plates though. When I go to download any of them, I get data like this...
solid OpenSCAD_Model
facet normal -0.999506 -0.031438 0
outer loop
vertex 15.9763 0.753486 -7.1
vertex 15.9684 1.00465 -2.5
vertex 15.9684 1.00465 -7.1
endloop
endfacet
facet normal -0.999506 -0.0314383 -0
outer loop
vertex 16 0 -2.5
vertex 15.9763 0.753486 -7.1
vertex 16 0 -7.1


What am I doing wrong?

It looks like Github is treating the .stl file differently because it was generated via OpenScad. Not sure why. My recommendation would be to download the entire package as a zip file from the main page under the green "Code" button.

[mktacop]

Copy all. Thank you!

[mktacop]

New question...

I'm using Simplify3D as my slicer, and I'm using the recommended print settings from the Manual. When I slice the Feed_Die_45_Body.stl there is a section approximately 3/4 of the way up that I'm assuming is where the ball bearings will ride once complete. That section is so thin that all that shows in Simplify when I slice it are the threads. There is no wall behind it. When I tried printing it, that is how it printed as well. What can I do so that there is a wall there to support the threads? Does the actual file need to have the wall thickened, or is it a slicer/printer issue? It printed beautifully up to that point, and I initially thought my nozzle had become clogged, but when I started a new print, it is printing beautifully as well.

[TylerR]

New question...

I'm using Simplify3D as my slicer, and I'm using the recommended print settings from the Manual. When I slice the Feed_Die_45_Body.stl there is a section approximately 3/4 of the way up that I'm assuming is where the ball bearings will ride once complete. That section is so thin that all that shows in Simplify when I slice it are the threads. There is no wall behind it. When I tried printing it, that is how it printed as well. What can I do so that there is a wall there to support the threads? Does the actual file need to have the wall thickened, or is it a slicer/printer issue? It printed beautifully up to that point, and I initially thought my nozzle had become clogged, but when I started a new print, it is printing beautifully as well.

It is a slicer/printer issue. The design itself can not be changed. That wall was exactly why I went from 4mm bb's to 3.5mm bb's. What size nozzle are you using? If it is larger then .4mm that is the issue.

[mktacop]

I'm using a .4 nozzle. I just downloaded Cura and am trying to copy my print settings over to it from Simplify. The preview in Cura looks better than in Simplify, so hopefully that will do the trick. Thanks for your help!

[TylerR]

I'm using a .4 nozzle. I just downloaded Cura and am trying to copy my print settings over to it from Simplify. The preview in Cura looks better than in Simplify, so hopefully that will do the trick. Thanks for your help!

For the record, you are not the only one who has had this problem with other slicers. I have never had an issue with Cura.

[mktacop]

I checked and there was a newer version of Simplify than what I was using available. I've downloaded/installed it and when I checked the preview of the print, it shows the section in question to be solid now. I've started the print using the new Simplify, so I'll know for sure if it worked correctly in a couple of hours.

[GWS]

For the record, you are not the only one who has had this problem with other slicers. I have never had an issue with Cura.

I've only used the "IdeaMaker" slicer and have never had a problem printing any of the files in the project so far...on the contrary, everything's been perfect. However I haven't printed a 3d Feed die yet. Since I have the bearings, I'll download and print this "Feed_Die_45_Body.stl". That way we will see if it's limited to only the Cura slicer. I've only used .4 nozzles.

TylerR, what settings are important on this part?

[TylerR]

I've only used the "IdeaMaker" slicer and have never had a problem printing any of the files in the project so far...on the contrary, everything's been perfect. However I haven't printed a 3d Feed die yet. Since I have the bearings, I'll download and print this "Feed_Die_45_Body.stl". That way we will see if it's limited to only the Cura slicer. I've only used .4 nozzles.

TylerR, what settings are important on this part?

The issue is not with Cura, it is other slicers. As mktacop said, as soon as he upgraded Simplify (which does not seem so simple in this case) it started working. The only important thing is to use a setting that will give good resolution, but that is really because of the threads. That is why we recommend .12 layer height.

The wall in question is very thin, because it needs to be, but it is greater then .4mm, so it should never be completely missing when sliced or printed. You cannot make the overall diameter of the die any bigger. It has to fit in the press like any other 7/8" die. Like I said, I had to go to a 3.5mm bb just to get the proper clearance. This issue only crops up with the .45 caliber dies.

[GWS]

I wasn't saying the issue was Cura......I just want to know if my fav. IdeaMaker has an issue like others. Only way to find out is print one. I planned on .12 layer height.....I print at that more and any other layer height. What about # of walls......? or thin-wall settings? Just want to test apples to apples.

I sliced the .45 set.....Assuming it's Ok to print both parts together? says it will take 5hr. 20 minutes. Be more like 6 hours at that layer height.....IdeaMaker time estimates are only close with more layer height (.2).

This will be my first attempt with your feeder designs....looking forward to more fun....;)

[TylerR]

I wasn't saying the issue was Cura......I just want to know if my fav. IdeaMaker has an issue like others. Only way to find out is print one. I planned on .12 layer height.....I print at that more and any other layer height. What about # of walls......? or thin-wall settings? Just want to test apples to apples.

I sliced the .45 set.....Assuming it's Ok to print both parts together? says it will take 5hr. 20 minutes. Be more like 6 hours at that layer height.....IdeaMaker time estimates are only close with more layer height (.2).

This will be my first attempt with your feeder designs....looking forward to more fun....;)

My bad my friend, I misunderstood what you meant. Yes you can print the set together. I usually just do 2 walls, 20% infill. I have never used a thin-wall setting so I can't speak to that.

[GWS]

I thought so. But that's ok. If I do have trouble with it, I may have to change slicers.....ugh.....I tried Cura once, but I had a hard time with the settings.....just didn't feel easy to use for me, iow's setup organization was hard for me to understand....where IdeaMaker just made more sense......simply a chemistry problem.;) I may end up having to give it another chance....we will soon see.

[mktacop]

After upgrading Simplify (just had to download and install the latest version), I was able to slice/print the 45 feed die with no issues.

Admittedly, I was several versions behind with Simplify as I was using 3.1.1 and upgraded to 4.1.2. I don’t know how many versions there were in between where I was, and where I am now.

FWIW, the Overture blue PLA+ is a very close match to Dillon blue for anyone with a Dillon press that is trying to match the color.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Pro2A4life]

Has anyone here made a adaptor to attach a DAA Output Assembly to the bottom of the bullet feeder body? If so, can you share a link to the .stl file?
Thank you in advance
288787 https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mr-bulletfeeder-output-assembly

[kayala]

Is parts generator source available on githab ?

[TylerR]

Is parts generator source available on githab ?

Not publicly, no.

[GWS]

I got the .45 cal. feed die printed. I successfully tested it on my little Summit press just to see if it could drop one at a time. I did not have a case ready, just a un-sized one, and the case wouldn't stay centered on the press, so only the first of three landed nicely. But that isn't the die's fault. A properly prepped case with an M die it would have been 100% perfect.

I have to admit, TylerR, on this one I was a little skeptical......shoulda known better.....great job! Worked first try! This will replace my Hornady metal one. Bearing activation rules. Fun stuff!


https://youtu.be/Z6vRW7vs_to
In case you're wondering....I didn't have a proper rubber band or spring, but hey it did the job...just a little funny looking......sorry for the shaky video......Iphone in one hand, working the press in the other.:roll:

Guess you can figure out....IdeaMaker works as good as Cura on that tool....YES! I don't have to learn another. :)

[TylerR]

I got the .45 cal. feed die printed. I successfully tested it on my little Summit press just to see if it could drop one at a time. I did not have a case ready, just a un-sized one, and the case wouldn't stay centered on the press, so only the first of three landed nicely. But that isn't the die's fault. A properly prepped case with an M die it would have been 100% perfect.

I have to admit, TylerR, on this one I was a little skeptical......shoulda known better.....great job! Worked first try! This will replace my Hornady metal one. Bearing activation rules. Fun stuff!

In case you're wondering....I didn't have a proper rubber band or spring, but hey it did the job...just a little funny looking......sorry for the shaky video......Iphone in one hand, working the press in the other.:roll:

Guess you can figure out....IdeaMaker works as good as Cura on that tool....YES! I don't have to learn another. :)

I am very glad to hear it is working. I actually just purchased some more of the springs from mcmaster. They really do work very well. I tried rubber bands and o-rings at first but they just didn't work well, or last very long.

I do like to smooth out the insert with a little acetone to make it run even better. And I usually do a few passes with a round file on the inside of the insert and the die body to get rid of any rough edges.

I am unable to view your video.

[GWS]

...
I am unable to view your video.

My last two videos I left private by mistake.....hope I fixed that.

I have a box of various springs, but am finding it hard to mount one vertically, so I used a long one just on one side for the temporary test.

I'm impressed by the design....what I was skeptical about was how the balls would do inside the rough "comparatively to machined metal" holes. I'm still in wonder why it works so well.....but it does. I did smooth out the main barrels inside using a drill bit pushed vertically inside each. No acetone yet, except that I had to scrape the outside of the inner piece vertically on one side where the printer stopped and started layers in the same place......figuring that might be preferable to having start stops everywhere. I may yet acetone that side for looks, but it works smoothly the way it is.

My brother with his expensive DAA will be pleased to know he doesn't have to buy their expensive caliber exchange kits. I will have to design plates to fit inside his DAA bowl though, unless the Ammo Mike size fits.

Oh, I also added contrast to the .45 letters for my old eyes.....picture coming to this post in a bit. Used a white gooey paint stick, cleaned up with acetone.

https://i.postimg.cc/1tXDSGnS/IMG-1104.jpg

Picture of the spring you found?

[TylerR]

Picture of the spring you found?

These babies right here:
https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K964/

https://www.mcmaster.com/mvC/Contents/gfx/ImageCache/965/9654K964c1-d03d-digital-master-p9@4x_636879972340051626.png?ver=ImageNotFound

[wbbh]

If the McMaster link requires a log in try: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1383

Then search for: "9654K964"

[GWS]

wbbh, thanks, that helped.

I had bought an assortment of 200 springs on the internet for about the $11 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7M36W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). So this morning, being fresher in mind, I took another look and found one that worked perfect. Look towards the bottom of the picture....I layed one there to show you how the hooks on each end were at an edge instead of in the middle......that made the springs lay closer to the barrels....I like that. Think I'm ready to go brag on TylerR to my brother.....;) Does that not look sharp?!
https://i.postimg.cc/hjVQc2DH/IMG-1105.jpg

[TylerR]

wbbh, thanks, that helped.

I had bought an assortment of 200 springs on the internet for about the $11 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7M36W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). So this morning, being fresher in mind, I took another look and found one that worked perfect. Look towards the bottom of the picture....I layed one there to show you how the hooks on each end were at an edge instead of in the middle......that made the springs lay closer to the barrels....I like that. Think I'm ready to go brag on TylerR to my brother.....;) Does that not look sharp?!


That looks great GWS!

I actually bought that same spring set. Problem is I have put about 12 of these dies together. Eventually you run out of the right spring.
In case you didn't see it, there is also a printable locking ring in there. It works well.

[GWS]

Yeah I saw the rings....after.... But I have like 6 extra metal ones. Still I will be printing some.

Too bad you can't print an "M" die out of plastic......;)

BTW, you do better at threads than I do. Ever learning, perfection still way out of reach.....

[mktacop]

I ran a test this morning using the printed .45 die and just the drop tube on top. I was able to easily fit 10 bullets in that assembly and made a video of it working. For those who may wonder what the extra "clunk" is, I had to rotate the powder measure some so that the feeder assembly would fit, and the failsafe kind of hangs up because of it. Anyone have a good solution to that issue on a 750?


https://youtu.be/eufuOKCp4KU

I'm super excited to get this built! I just started the main body print. Simplify says it will be 45 hours, but I know how poorly Simplify estimates print time. This print should be done sometime Sunday night.

[TylerR]

I ran a test this morning using the printed .45 die and just the drop tube on top. I was able to easily fit 10 bullets in that assembly and made a video of it working. For those who may wonder what the extra "clunk" is, I had to rotate the powder measure some so that the feeder assembly would fit, and the failsafe kind of hangs up because of it. Anyone have a good solution to that issue on a 750?

I'm super excited to get this built! I just started the main body print. Simplify says it will be 45 hours, but I know how poorly Simplify estimates print time. This print should be done sometime Sunday night.

Oh yea!
I read that the 750 does pose an issue with feed dies. Can you show a pic or video of the interference?

Edited: A quick search and I found this.
https://www.cedhk.com/daa-extra-short-dillon-powder-bar

[mktacop]

Oh yea!
I read that the 750 does pose an issue with feed dies. Can you show a pic or video of the interference?

Edited: A quick search and I found this.
https://www.cedhk.com/daa-extra-short-dillon-powder-bar

Thanks. I'd found that as well, but the small powder bars are out of stock right now.

[GWS]

Would it still interfere if you could have the spring go directly to the feed die and use the prox sensor or other switch at the collator?

I echo.....show us a picture or vid.

Hard to believe Dillon didn't see that one during development. Here I thought they were perfect, unlike us mere mortals.

Maybe Tyler can start making powder bars to print! ;) plastic would have to be static electricity proof.....

[mktacop]

Would it still interfere if you could have the spring go directly to the feed die and use the prox sensor or other switch at the collator?

I echo.....show us a picture or vid.

Hard to believe Dillon didn't see that one during development. Here I thought they were perfect, unlike us mere mortals.

Maybe Tyler can start making powder bars to print! ;) plastic would have to be static electricity proof.....

This photo shows the clearance (or lack thereof), that results in the failsafe on the powder measure making that “clunk” noise.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210917/bee0596b1cbea59f1b28881b67d2f8a2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

This photo shows the clearance (or lack thereof), that results in the failsafe on the powder measure making that “clunk” noise.

I question if it will work, and I have no way to test it, but it is possible one of the APP offset adapters could solve the problem.

Try the "Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter" on the Feed Die and then the "APP_Offset_Connector_13", then the drop tube you already printed. See if that could work with clearance. More parts but there may be a solution within my existing design. Please let us know if it works.

[mktacop]

I question if it will work, and I have no way to test it, but it is possible one of the APP offset adapters could solve the problem.

Try the "Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter" on the Feed Die and then the "APP_Offset_Connector_13", then the drop tube you already printed. See if that could work with clearance. More parts but there may be a solution within my existing design. Please let us know if it works.

Thank you sir. I'll print those parts once the main body print is done sometime tomorrow.

I've looked at disabling the failsafe mechanism on the powder measure as one option, but would prefer not to do so.

I'm also pretty proficient with Fusion360, so I may just design a new part to be the drop tube and incorporate the photosensor into it. I just recently designed a new spent primer catcher for my 750 that works really well, so I don't think designing an adaptor would be a problem.

[dverna]

I got the bullet drop die from Tyler and it looks very nice. I prefer not to load .38 Spl without the Powder Check so I ordered a seat/crimp die and it should be here early this week. Those dies were out of stock for a long time but I got the shipping confirmation so I will be good to go.

Many thanks to Tyler for helping me out.

[GWS]

Ever learning with this hobby.......Don.....but there's enough reward to keep us at it.....reminds me of golf. Good days and bad days! This would be a golf club thrown in the bushes day....:)

https://i.postimg.cc/hG4V7CTT/IMG-1106.jpg

Ugh! It isn't always a rose bed. Nozzle clog at 220 degrees C. At least no spaghetti and wasted filament everywhere.

[dverna]

GWS,

Please...do not tell me this is like golf!! I hate the game. One of the benefits of retirement was I never had to play with clients again. The clubs went into the dumpster a few years ago.

LOL

[GWS]

That's too funny! This is way more fun than golf.....except on days where you get garbage instead of an awesome print! I gave away my clubs 15 years ago.....and never missed them. In fact, that was my excuse to say, "no.... I can't go play golf today"....;) one more perk, my wife was elated...

[mktacop]

I got the main body print completed (47 hour print), and have the first collator plate printing now. That plate is about halfway done since I started it before bed last night. I have to give a big hats off to TylerR! The fit between parts has been spot-on for everything I've printed so far. I've printed a lot of stuff over the past 5 years, and these parts are extremely well designed. Well done sir!

I have a question that I haven't found an answer for in the 240+ pages (not saying it isn't there, I just haven't found it).

How tightly do you fasten the nuts/bolts of the slip clutch to the slip clutch ring?

[TylerR]

I got the main body print completed (47 hour print), and have the first collator plate printing now. That plate is about halfway done since I started it before bed last night. I have to give a big hats off to TylerR! The fit between parts has been spot-on for everything I've printed so far. I've printed a lot of stuff over the past 5 years, and these parts are extremely well designed. Well done sir!

I have a question that I haven't found an answer for in the 240+ pages (not saying it isn't there, I just haven't found it).

How tightly do you fasten the nuts/bolts of the slip clutch to the slip clutch ring?

The best answer I can give is, the tighter the better. Only thing to avoid is going so tight that you crack the plastic. I have never put my torque wrench to them.
Of course, if you get it on there and it is slipping too easily, you can always tighten more from there.

[mktacop]

The best answer I can give is, the tighter the better. Only thing to avoid is going so tight that you crack the plastic. I have never put my torque wrench to them.
Of course, if you get it on there and it is slipping too easily, you can always tighten more from there.

Thank you sir!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mktacop]

I was able to do a quick function check. I need to reprint the slide plate since it warped off the bed some and is causing the transition to not be smooth, but that is easily done.

Loving this project so far!


https://youtu.be/Hue6lPJ28tI

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[robpiat]

I want to retain my FCD on my LNL AP loading 9mm. That puts my Powder station 2 and the feeder station 3. I am having trouble figuring out if its possible to have them next to each other. Anyone else run into this? I read above about the offset tubes so maybe thats an option? I'll update with a pic.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210921/014390869c12283cb65e360d7ab3e8a8.jpg

[TylerR]

I want to retain my FCD on my LNL AP loading 9mm. That puts my Powder station 2 and the feeder station 3. I am having trouble figuring out if its possible to have them next to each other. Anyone else run into this? I read above about the offset tubes so maybe thats an option? I'll update with a pic.



I would suggest trying the same thing I recommended to mktacop in this post.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5263824&viewfull=1#post5263824

[robpiat]

I would suggest trying the same thing I recommended to mktacop in this post.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5263824&viewfull=1#post5263824

Thanks. It probably makes sense to reconfigure anyways and get a powder cop or lockout die.

Another issue I am having is not dopping 9mm bullets from the collator. Its getting hung up. I am using spring adapter 10. I tried different speeds / tilts and chamfering it a bit. I could try more clutch tension but it seems like it would be better to have them drop free. What am I missing? It’s working ok with a 12 flush I printed so I’m gonna print the 10 flush since I don’t have a 12 spring here yet.

[GWS]

I see things can get crowded with the tall stuff. There is one other way .... and it requires less clearance where it's most crowded over the press. I mean using the proximity sensor as shown in the pictures below:

https://i.postimg.cc/HszkWNqC/IMG_1108.jpg
See, doesn't required the height....spring mounts low as in the above .45 feed die, and can be angled away quickly any direction.

And below, looking up at the collator is the prox. sensor and it's small spring coming down (this one is .223 rifle) TylerR has an even shorter spring adapter than my old one shown below the sensor housing. Tyler has a different sensor housing too, but I think its pretty short....or you can download mine in the divergent, er "contributers" file. ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/VkNLJRw0/IMG_1109.jpg

[TylerR]

I see things can get crowded with the tall stuff. There is one other way .... and it requires less clearance where it's most crowded over the press. I mean using the proximity sensor as shown in the pictures below:

See, doesn't required the height....spring mounts low as in the above .45 feed die, and can be angled away quickly any direction.

And below, looking up at the collator is the prox. sensor and it's small spring coming down (this one is .223 rifle) TylerR has an even shorter spring adapter than my old one shown below the sensor housing. Tyler has a different sensor housing too, but I think its pretty short....or you can download mine in the divergent, er "contributers" file. ;)


This is also a very good possible solution that you could try.

[robpiat]

Thanks....Makes sense.

[GWS]

I've been quite late to the bullet feeder die party, mainly because I needed to get the collators right first. And too, I had Hornady dies for pistol and RCBS dies for the two rifle calibers I load most of.....and I admit I was just a little leery of plastic feeder dies.........so I could afford to be leery since I didn't think I needed them.....what a mistake. ;)

So now I've printed two pistol versions......and I'm totally impressed! These are more, no, way more reliable than the Hornady ones, and dang near free.....what's not to like? Even color-coded by caliber.... I love these things!! Thank you TylerR for sharing this bit of light! :)

https://i.postimg.cc/5y7rg0fx/IMG-1112.jpg

These plus two more future prints for .357mag and 9mm, will be used on my modified Hornady Pistol Bullet collator, which I converted to a much more efficient bullet flipping tool about a year before I even knew about 3D printers.

A page back, I posted a first try disaster printing the green one. It took me two days to figure out what the problem was. Like I said.....ever learning.... https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5264941&viewfull=1#post5264941

Still being pretty much a novice at 3d printing, my slicer was finally successfully adjusted a few months ago to get rid of a bad case "stringing" on prints. Thought I had it all figured out with some serious filament retraction settings. It worked well on big prints, but printing these skinny cylinders was another thing since it tried to retract at each layer.....and a new layer happens every 4 seconds or so, or less.

That caused the filament to grind, over and over, at the top of the Bowden Tube....and very quickly quit feeding filament.....see the picture (last post last page). So I learned the hard way, that retraction that works for big models doesn't necessarily work for real small cylinders. So I settled for a little stringing, and actually found that these feeder dies and adapters print beautifully, near perfect, if you print ONE at a time.....instead of the stringing between die and insert trying to print a set.

I still printed the set for the green one too, but for the rest I will print them one at a time for the best print. See pictures of what I mean below:

https://i.postimg.cc/vTHj59Fq/IMG-1110.jpg
Notice the stringing and thread damage that has to be trimmed with a knife, vs. below how beautiful the threads are if I had printed each alone....

https://i.postimg.cc/0QCF6n3K/IMG-1111.jpg

[TylerR]

I've been quite late to the bullet feeder die party, mainly because I needed to get the collators right first. And too, I had Hornady dies for pistol and RCBS dies for the two rifle calibers I load most of.....and I admit I was just a little leery of plastic feeder dies.........so I could afford to be leery since I didn't think I needed them.....what a mistake. ;)

So now I've printed two pistol versions......and I'm totally impressed! These are more, no, way more reliable than the Hornady ones, and dang near free.....what's not to like? Even color-coded by caliber.... I love these things!! Thank you TylerR for sharing this bit of light! :)


These plus two more future prints for .357mag and 9mm, will be used on my modified Hornady Pistol Bullet collator, which I converted to a much more efficient bullet flipping tool about a year before I even knew about 3D printers.

A page back, I posted a first try disaster printing the green one. It took me two days to figure out what the problem was. Like I said.....ever learning.... https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5264941&viewfull=1#post5264941

Still being pretty much a novice at 3d printing, my slicer was finally successfully adjusted a few months ago to get rid of a bad case "stringing" on prints. Thought I had it all figured out with some serious filament retraction settings. It worked well on big prints, but printing these skinny cylinders was another thing since it tried to retract at each layer.....and a new layer happens every 4 seconds or so, or less.

That caused the filament to grind, over and over, at the top of the Bowden Tube....and very quickly quit feeding filament.....see the picture (last post last page). So I learned the hard way, that retraction that works for big models doesn't necessarily work for real small cylinders. So I settled for a little stringing, and actually found that these feeder dies and adapters print beautifully, near perfect, if you print ONE at a time.....instead of the stringing between die and insert trying to print a set.

I still printed the set for the green one too, but for the rest I will print them one at a time for the best print. See pictures of what I mean below:

Notice the stringing and thread damage that has to be trimmed with a knife, vs. below how beautiful the threads are if I had printed it alone....



The final version of those dies look beautiful!

For the .357 I believe the new .38 special die I just created will work fine. I have not tested it though.

[vavaroutsos]

I used TylerR's "Parts Generator.jar" from github. I can't figure out how the Slip_Clutch_Top_Cover.stl is supposed to mount. The Slip_Clutch_Hex.stl has an OD of about 31.5mm. The Slip_Clutch_Top_Cover.stl has an ID of about 34.5mm and no screw holes. What is supposed to hold it on? A friction fit is certainly out of the question.

[TylerR]

I used TylerR's "Parts Generator.jar" from github. I can't figure out how the Slip_Clutch_Top_Cover.stl is supposed to mount. The Slip_Clutch_Hex.stl has an OD of about 31.5mm. The Slip_Clutch_Top_Cover.stl has an ID of about 34.5mm and no screw holes. What is supposed to hold it on? A friction fit is certainly out of the question.

The Top Cover is a bit of an outdated part. I would strongly suggest using the new QD handle instead. That being said, the cover is designed to friction fit inside of the collator plate center hole. It was really only useful on very tall collator plates to keep bullets or brass from falling in.

[GWS]

The final version of those dies look beautiful!

For the .357 I believe the new .38 special die I just created will work fine. I have not tested it though.

They are beautiful.....a great designer designed them! :) I sure like those XYLtech Satin PLA blends.....except their red one.....but I've seen another brand of Satin Red that I think I'll order. I know the 4 parts are made to mix and match, but I think I'd rather print copies for each caliber so they are always ready to go.

As for the .357, it is just a longer .38....so just unscrewing the die the difference, and it should work the same. Is it added to your files yet? If it is, that one will be next to print and test.....:)

[TylerR]

They are beautiful.....great designer! :) sure like those Satin PLA blends.....except their red one.....but I've seen another brand of Satin Red that I think I'll order. I know the 4 parts are made to mix and match, but I think I'd rather print copies for each caliber so they are always ready to go.

As for the .357, it is just a longer .38....so just unscrewing the die the difference, and it should work the same. Is it added to your files yet? If it is, that one will be next to print and test.....:)

Just added :)

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/7.%20Bullet%20Feed%20Dies/Feed_Die_38_Set.stl

[GWS]

Thanks! Will start printing them in the morning!

[vavaroutsos]

The Top Cover is a bit of an outdated part. I would strongly suggest using the new QD handle instead. That being said, the cover is designed to friction fit inside of the collator plate center hole. It was really only useful on very tall collator plates to keep bullets or brass from falling in.

Tyler, thanks for the quick reply. I didn't have any collator plates that thick and hadn't even consider that's how the cover worked.

I tried to print one of the collator handles using the recommended slicer settings (no supports), but ran into an issue. I'm using Cura and when it came to the horizontal surface closing the cylinder, the two screw holes caused a huge problem. Cura tried to print the hole outlines in mid air and things quickly became a mess with hanging filament getting stuck everywhere.

How do you print this part without supports with those screw holes? Is there some advanced slicer options that you are using to accomplish this? I have been looking but haven't found anything that looks like it would help.

Thanks,

Pete

[TylerR]

Tyler, thanks for the quick reply. I didn't have any collator plates that thick and hadn't even consider that's how the cover worked.

I tried to print one of the collator handles using the recommended slicer settings (no supports), but ran into an issue. I'm using Cura and when it came to the horizontal surface closing the cylinder, the two screw holes caused a huge problem. Cura tried to print the hole outlines in mid air and things quickly became a mess with hanging filament getting stuck everywhere.

How do you print this part without supports with those screw holes? Is there some advanced slicer options that you are using to accomplish this? I have been looking but haven't found anything that looks like it would help.

Thanks,

Pete

Hi Pete. It looks like this is not illustrated correctly in the manual. This post shows the correct orientation for printing.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=5224394&viewfull=1#post5224394

[GWS]

As promised: The two main parts to the new .38 caliber bullet feed die are done, 3rd out of 4 printing. Quality is way better printing one at a time, least ways on my Creality CR-10 v2.

So here's the first try.....just feeding on my Summit to a .357 mag case. Works as well as any other. Case height is only 1/4" higher than .38 special.

Green again....because settings are right for that filament....and I'm feeling lazy today! ;)


https://youtu.be/kpmxj_b4FaI

Batting a 1000 on this one Tyler! Perfecto! I only had to hand twist a drill bit inside the insert for about 5 seconds, and use an exacto knife for a single inside string inside the die barrel....and 5 seconds. Oh and just a single turn with the knife in each ball bearing hole.....Easiest one yet!

[argus357]

Thanks to all that have contributed to this epic thread, my main body is printing as I type.
One question I have not found an answer to yet, which collator plate is suitable for .38spl / .357 magnum pistol brass base down please?

[kayala]

Does anyone have pictures of assembled nose down bullets feed to Lee APP ? My imagination fails me here :( I'm planning to use light sensor but I guess any kind of sensor tube would be similar in assembly.

[GWS]

Thanks to all that have contributed to this epic thread, my main body is printing as I type.
One question I have not found an answer to yet, which collator plate is suitable for .38spl / .357 magnum pistol brass base down please?

Good question as it seems 99% of the help is for cases that are rimless. I'm assuming you know that "custom" plates made from the Openscad plate builder, so you should have Openscad the free programmer's cad program loaded, right?

I'm including a snip&sketch of the .357 measurements converted to MM, which is what the 3D printing world lives by:

https://i.postimg.cc/nhq5pPmN/357-Mag-Measure.png

You'll notice that the rim diameter is included, and it's that diameter that must fit in the holes around the brass plate you want to print.

So the 11.2mm rim diameter is critical....the holes have to be bigger than that or they won't drop. Well .45 caliber is 11.5mm. That entered into the Openscad Plate builder would be minimum. TylerR may have more experience doing .357, so his input would be important, but on my Pre 3Dprinter mod of my old Hornady Pistol bullet feeder, I drilled .50 caliber holes all around, and guess what. It collates .45, .40, .357, 9mm BULLETS all on one plate. But.......this is cases. But I would still think the ability to drop is the same. The holes need to be big enough not to have a lot of near misses, IOW's cases that ride around the merry-go-round tilted, but not dropped all the way.

For case feeders TylerR has already noted that there doesn't have to be a plate for every caliber, so maybe one of the plates already in .stl file list will do you, he'll be by soon and let you know. But pay attention to the slider and the drop tube.....I think he will guide you on that too.

I still need to add one more case feeder to my already very crowded assembly line to drop pistol cases into my original Pro 2000, which is why the last thing I printed was .357 parts...... So bullets are handled for me.....cases next.

[ranger391xt]

Good question as it seems 99% of the help is for cases that are rimless. I'm assuming you know that "custom" plates made from the Openscad plate builder, so you should have Openscad the free programmer's cad program loaded, right?

I'm including a snip&sketch of the .357 measurements converted to MM, which is what the 3D printing world lives by:

https://i.postimg.cc/nhq5pPmN/357-Mag-Measure.png

You'll notice that the rim diameter is included, and it's that diameter that must fit in the holes around the brass plate you want to print.I have used the regular small pistol base down brass plate to feed 357 mag case into the APP with some success. It will bind up on occasion when a case hasn't completely dropped, but slowing the speed down substantially reduces that.

I was wondering about making a plate for revolver cases that is more like the 45-70 & rifle plates, where the cases would feed on their side vs standing up. Anyone tried that or have thoughts about it?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Does anyone have pictures of assembled nose down bullets feed to Lee APP ? My imagination fails me here :( I'm planning to use light sensor but I guess any kind of sensor tube would be similar in assembly.

There is a picture in the images folder, and there is also a video in the manual. There are about 10 ways to skin this cat, so it is hard to give a straight answer. Do you plan to mount the sensor under the collator or on top of the APP press? Do you want to use the APP clear tubes at all? Do you want to use the offset connectors, or just have a straight shot up?

[TylerR]

I have used the regular small pistol base down brass plate to feed 357 mag case into the APP with some success. It will bind up on occasion when a case hasn't completely dropped, but slowing the speed down substantially reduces that.

I was wondering about making a plate for revolver cases that is more like the 45-70 & rifle plates, where the cases would feed on their side vs standing up. Anyone tried that or have thoughts about it?

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I do not load .357. I have not done any testing with rimmed cases. At some point I will get around to figuring out .44mag

Edited: I just ran a quick test with a piece of .38 special brass and the large pistol brass plate. It worked well (better then the small plate), so I would start there. The idea of feeding them on their side may also possibly work.

[GWS]

I have used the regular small pistol base down brass plate to feed 357 mag case into the APP with some success. It will bind up on occasion when a case hasn't completely dropped, but slowing the speed down substantially reduces that.

I was wondering about making a plate for revolver cases that is more like the 45-70 & rifle plates, where the cases would feed on their side vs standing up. Anyone tried that or have thoughts about it?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Betcha the large pistol base down brass plate would work a lot better.

Interesting idea about sideways. However for a case that short, you'd multiply in spades the incidence of the "standing soldier" problem we've seen with even tall rifle cases........so......you'd have to mount something to knock them over inside the collator like I did with rifle cases. See video below:


https://youtu.be/-hDs9eLVxzw

[ranger391xt]

I have generated a plate to try side ways and just started printing it. I'll try to report back in a few days how well it works.

Any suggestions about how the slide adjuster on the slide plate should be set?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[argus357]

Thank you GWS, Tyler and Ranger, I look forward to hearing how the sideways plate goes.

[kayala]

There is a picture in the images folder, and there is also a video in the manual. There are about 10 ways to skin this cat, so it is hard to give a straight answer. Do you plan to mount the sensor under the collator or on top of the APP press? Do you want to use the APP clear tubes at all? Do you want to use the offset connectors, or just have a straight shot up?

Thanks Tyler, I guess number of options is what got me confused. What I was planning to do is to use provided bracket, have sensor mounted on the press and not use Lee's tubes, also didn't plan to use offset connector. I did find one image related to APP and it was using offset connector.

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler, I guess number of options is what got me confused. What I was planning to do is to use provided bracket, have sensor mounted on the press and not use Lee's tubes, also didn't plan to use offset connector. I did find one image related to APP and it was using offset connector.

Simplest would be to go Drop_Tube -> APP_Drop_Tube_APP_Insert -> APP_Bullet_Insert. You just need to select the correct ones for the caliber you are trying to do. With the APP_Drop_Tube_APP_Insert there is only a small/medium/large. You don't want one too big, so it may be necessary to pick the smaller size and open it up with a file a little bit.

Hope that helps.

These were just posted btw.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/8.%20APP/APP_Drop_Tube_APP_Insert_Medium.stl

[GWS]

THANK YOU!!

I have a degree in Mech Eng and a Masters degree, so figure I must be a wee bit above stupid. Now, in all honesty, those degrees are decades old so might not mean much now. I am leaning towards just buying a system that works from Double Alpha. Luckily I was able to make a few dollars along the way and do not need to deal with the frustration of the learning curve this is presenting.

Maybe next time my son is here I will see if he can figure it out. He was reading the DOS manual when he was 10 years old so knows his way around computers. But my gut is telling me $600 for the commercial unit is what I should do.

dverna: No rarity around here for Doh moments. It finally hit me why I couldn't get the Java file to work! It said it was looking for a "Main Project" folder.......so I made one (wondering why it wasn't included) and put it's address on the line asking for it.....so I gave the Java program something to do and it created a zip file all right....an empty one!

Finally, I figured out that the "main project folder" wasn't needed, TylerR's folder with the bf project was what is needed. So you don't download the jar file in another place.....it needs to be run from TylerR's main folder holding the zillion .stl files....whatever you rename it, enter that folder's address in the line asking, if you've moved the jar file.

Do NOT like egg on my face. I DO like that Java program.....neater than hell!

Now about that learning curve......I could buy the commercial thing too, but it's a leech, just keeps asking for more money......besides.....that learning curve is self defense against Alzheimer's.....I refuse to quit learning.....too dangerous, and boredom as I near retirement is dangerous too! Haven't had this much fun creating since I designed and built a home for a very wealthy friend of mine. Doesn't make money, but who cares?

[mktacop]

I want to thank EVERYONE who has contributed to this design and thread. I now have a functional bullet feeder for my press.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210927/941b62daef5a67d36a439e4d36785f47.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I want to thank EVERYONE who has contributed to this design and thread. I now have a functional bullet feeder for my press.



Looks really good man!

[GWS]

Hard to describe the positive feelings of a successful MYO or two under your belt. Congrats! That case feeder is interesting....not exactly from this thread, but it looks like it must work. Now all you need is mirrors on the ceiling!;)

[mktacop]

Hard to describe the positive feelings of a successful MYO or two under your belt. Congrats! That case feeder is interesting....not exactly from this thread, but it looks like it must work. Now all you need is mirrors on the ceiling!;)

The case feeder was done before I found this thread. It was based off a design I’d done for my annealer and works well.

A mirror has actually been ordered earlier this morning. [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[silahtar]

Just upgraded my printer to an Ender 5 Plus, it appears I'll be able to print the MONGO... I thought I ask which motor is the best option in terms of performance as well as sourcing it, given I live in Canada... I have two standard-size units that reloaded little more than 9k of rounds so far, still works great...!!!

[TylerR]

Just upgraded my printer to an Ender 5 Plus, it appears I'll be able to print the MONGO... I thought I ask which motor is the best option in terms of performance as well as sourcing it, given I live in Canada... I have two standard-size units that reloaded little more than 9k of rounds so far, still works great...!!!

Go with one of the top two listed in the manual.

https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Self-Locking-Reversible-Reduction-Electric/dp/B07YBXMTWC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DC-Gearmotor-12-RPM-Nameplate-52JE51

[dverna]

I want to thank EVERYONE who has contributed to this design and thread. I now have a functional bullet feeder for my press.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210927/941b62daef5a67d36a439e4d36785f47.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man that looks TALL. But heck if it works it works!!! You guys are amazing!!

Got my seating/crimping die from Double Alpha so should be able to try out the bullet feeder die this week with lubed cast bullets. Wish it was raining so I could justify spending time reloading pistol ammunition I do not need...LOL. But with winter close by I have some other things to do when the sun is shining.

I will report back. A feeder die that works on lubed bullets will be an important feature to many shooters who prefer to shoot lubed cast bullets.

[r4ndy]

Just printed the 9 and 223 feed dies. Both worked on my Rockchucker with just a light touch up with a drill bit and bottom three holes with bearings. Still plan to smooth them out with acetone as suggested, but excited to put the 223 die to work this winter on my first bulk production of 223 on the 750XL. Tested with 9MM 124 moly coated and Hornady 223 55gr BTHP. I have case and bullet collators installed and have run about 2500 9’s through the Dillon with no issues with a MRB bullet die. Will post some pics when I get the wires dressed properly and change out to the 3d printed die. Thanks again to all who made this possible!

[ranger391xt]

Thank you GWS, Tyler and Ranger, I look forward to hearing how the sideways plate goes.Mixed results with the sideways plate. First one I didn't have the slots long enough and the cases wouldn't fall out freely. I printed another one with the slots about 3 or 4 mm wider and the cases would drop but A) the motor has to be run very slow to give the cases time to drop out of the way and B) still had the occasional jam that would occur from the "Standing Soldier" issue. I do have the large sweeper installed and this does a good job knocking them over but every now and then the sweeper gets knocked out of position and then stand issue with upright cases happens and it tried to drop more that one....

Not a total failure but only marginally successful. I am sure it could be made to work with some tweaks. Rather than invest more time with this I am going to try is a pistol plate (11.5 caliber I b think), but made a little thicker.

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[TylerR]

Rather than invest more time with this I am going to try is a pistol plate (11.5 caliber I b think), but made a little thicker.


I think this is wise and the way to go. You have now entered the realm of R&D. Please share whatever your findings are as it will help others.

[TylerR]

Just printed the 9 and 223 feed dies. Both worked on my Rockchucker with just a light touch up with a drill bit and bottom three holes with bearings. Still plan to smooth them out with acetone as suggested, but excited to put the 223 die to work this winter on my first bulk production of 223 on the 750XL. Tested with 9MM 124 moly coated and Hornady 223 55gr BTHP. I have case and bullet collators installed and have run about 2500 9’s through the Dillon with no issues with a MRB bullet die. Will post some pics when I get the wires dressed properly and change out to the 3d printed die. Thanks again to all who made this possible!

Great feedback and awesome to hear!

[argus357]

Mixed results with the sideways plate....
Not a total failure but only marginally successful. I am sure it could be made to work with some tweaks. Rather than invest more time with this I am going to try is a pistol plate (11.5 caliber I b think), but made a little thicker.
Thanks for the update, look forward to your results!

[GWS]

Background:

I have an old bullet collator on my first progressive, (Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder, modified to flip bullets, but Hornady bullet feed dies I found are not as reliable as TylerR's 3Dprinted versions.....so after the first print and experience with .45, I also printed .40 and his newest .38/357 and found them to work just as well. So I'm snug and smug there.

So I decided to load some .357 Magnum (haven't for a while). But I like to deprime and wet tumble first these days.....after all I have and love my little Lee APP that's capable of making short work of that sort of thing.

Coincidentally, I've printed Tyler's ever so cool quick caliber change for the APP, and needed to print a .357 adapter for it. But the one He has on the list of adapters doesn't work as well as I wanted. Tyler doesn't load .357 so I doubt he tested that one, since the top hole in the adapter is small only allowing the case to drop in, but not made for tubing or other things above it, so obviously it's a prototype, not quite finished.

And....I like my adapters to be cut out tight around the case and the adapter as long as it can be to prevent push outs of the next case in line.

So I modified this prototype .357 adapter in DesignSpark, to make it longer and with a bottom cutout required by that longer body making it suspended only a couple of mm above the medium high shuttle slide.

Here's two pictures:

https://i.postimg.cc/2y5vLtRJ/IMG-3933.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Tw0gw6Sg/IMG-3931.jpg

Printed it out this morning and found the upper hole diameter problem, and one more minor problem....I just assumed Tyler had the adapter diameter the same as all the other adapters....not so lucky....that's what you get when you pick a caliber he doesn't load!;) It wasn't a problem I couldn't fix with 30 minutes of sanding with 320, 500, 1500 grit sandpaper....but we will get it fixed before others print one.

UpDate! Turns out the barrel diameter WAS the same as all others.....16.4mm O.S. diameter! So.....it was the print. I had changed filament to a bright red and didn't change the 220C temp.....and at .12mm high it obviously squishes wider......We have so many variables that can bite you in this 3DP technology.....it was not Tyler's fault....he can't predict changing filament and what that does. The 220C temp was only necessary for the Green I was using when I made my most successful anti stringing settings yet. So I need to reduce the temp....to what is guesswork.:veryconfu

I chose the easy way on top of the adapter....just drilled the hole to 1/2" diameter, 1/2" deep, and stuck 1/2" tubing in....easy peasy.

So how well does it deprime .357? You can be the judge of that......


https://youtu.be/F5tMwynbUUI

[argus357]

Thanks GWS, keep the .357 goodness coming. Looks like I found this project at just the right time as .357 is one of my most frequent reloads. Will your mods be available in the project folders?
Btw, video shows as unavailable for me.

[GWS]

Try it again.....YouTube keeps changing the steps....

[argus357]

Working now, thanks!

[GWS]

....... Will your mods be available in the project folders?........

I think so. Pretty sure TylerR is working on that. He's a bit busy this week, so patience......;)

Remember you need to print out the APP_Base_Slide, then mount Lee's intermediate upper piece (with the claw inserted) to it, then print out the APP_Bracket_Main, finally the caliber specific insert, in this case the .357 one.

[ranger391xt]

Background:

I have an old bullet collator on my first progressive, (Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder, modified to flip bullets, but Hornady bullet feed dies I found are not as reliable as TylerR's 3Dprinted versions.....so after the first print and experience with .45, I also printed .40 and his newest .38/357 and found them to work just as well. So I'm snug and smug there.

So I decided to load some .357 Magnum (haven't for a while). But I like to deprime and wet tumble first these days.....after all I have and love my little Lee APP that's capable of making short work of that sort of thing.

Coincidentally, I've printed Tyler's ever so cool quick caliber change for the APP, and needed to print a .357 adapter for it. But the one He has on the list of adapters doesn't work as well as I wanted. Tyler doesn't load .357 so I doubt he tested that one, since the top hole in the adapter is small only allowing the case to drop in, but not made for tubing or other things above it, so obviously it's a prototype, not quite finished.

And....I like my adapters to be cut out tight around the case and the adapter as long as it can be to prevent push outs of the next case in line.

So I modified this prototype .357 adapter in DesignSpark, to make it longer and with a bottom cutout required by that longer body making it suspended only a couple of mm above the medium high shuttle slide.

Here's two pictures:

https://i.postimg.cc/2y5vLtRJ/IMG-3933.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Tw0gw6Sg/IMG-3931.jpg

Printed it out this morning and found the upper hole diameter problem, and one more minor problem....I just assumed Tyler had the adapter diameter the same as all the other adapters....not so lucky....that's what you get when you pick a caliber he doesn't load!;) It wasn't a problem I couldn't fix with 30 minutes of sanding with 320, 500, 1500 grit sandpaper....but we will get it fixed before others print one.

UpDate! Turns out the barrel diameter WAS the same as all others.....16.4mm O.S. diameter! So.....it was the print. I had changed filament to a bright red and didn't change the 220C temp.....and at .12mm high it obviously squishes wider......We have so many variables that can bite you in this 3DP technology.....it was not Tyler's fault....he can't predict changing filament and what that does. The 220C temp was only necessary for the Green I was using when I made my most successful anti stringing settings yet. So I need to reduce the temp....to what is guesswork.:veryconfu

I chose the easy way on top of the adapter....just drilled the hole to 1/2" diameter, 1/2" deep, and stuck 1/2" tubing in....easy peasy.

So how well does it deprime .357? You can be the judge of that......


https://youtu.be/F5tMwynbUUIRead this and watched your vid....

I've deprived a few hundred 357 cases the past few days and operation was not nearly as smooth for me. Cases seem to want to bind up going into the shell holder about 25% of the time. GECO head stamp cases are super tight and sometimes will not feed at all. Some times it seems the cases are sliding across at a slight angle. I am using the tallest shuttle.

Additional Info: I removed the detent from the shell holder adapter early on because of binding issues. I'm using the updated slider bottom.

Any suggestions what to look at or adjust?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Background:

I have an old bullet collator on my first progressive, (Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder, modified to flip bullets, but Hornady bullet feed dies I found are not as reliable as TylerR's 3Dprinted versions.....so after the first print and experience with .45, I also printed .40 and his newest .38/357 and found them to work just as well. So I'm snug and smug there.

So I decided to load some .357 Magnum (haven't for a while). But I like to deprime and wet tumble first these days.....after all I have and love my little Lee APP that's capable of making short work of that sort of thing.

Coincidentally, I've printed Tyler's ever so cool quick caliber change for the APP, and needed to print a .357 adapter for it. But the one He has on the list of adapters doesn't work as well as I wanted. Tyler doesn't load .357 so I doubt he tested that one, since the top hole in the adapter is small only allowing the case to drop in, but not made for tubing or other things above it, so obviously it's a prototype, not quite finished.

And....I like my adapters to be cut out tight around the case and the adapter as long as it can be to prevent push outs of the next case in line.

So I modified this prototype .357 adapter in DesignSpark, to make it longer and with a bottom cutout required by that longer body making it suspended only a couple of mm above the medium high shuttle slide.



GWS,

Going over this now, and have a few questions. The original inserts I made for 44 and 357 were both designed to use the tallest shuttle. The one you modified appears to use the medium shuttle. What was the reason for going to the shorter one? Also, all of the inserts I made use the 4 different sizes of Lee clear tubing. The 357 insert can use either the #3 or #4 sized tube. Just curious on that one as you said it was not designed to take tubing.

ETA, never mind on the shuttle height. I see now that it is about 1mm too high. Making that change now.

[TylerR]

Read this and watched your vid....

I've deprived a few hundred 357 cases the past few days and operation was not nearly as smooth for me. Cases seem to want to bind up going into the shell holder about 25% of the time. GECO head stamp cases are super tight and sometimes will not feed at all. Some times it seems the cases are sliding across at a slight angle. I am using the tallest shuttle.

Additional Info: I removed the detent from the shell holder adapter early on because of binding issues. I'm using the updated slider bottom.

Any suggestions what to look at or adjust?



Can you post a vid of yours failing? That would help us troubleshoot it with you.

[GWS]

Read this and watched your vid....

I've deprived a few hundred 357 cases the past few days and operation was not nearly as smooth for me. Cases seem to want to bind up going into the shell holder about 25% of the time. GECO head stamp cases are super tight and sometimes will not feed at all. Some times it seems the cases are sliding across at a slight angle. I am using the tallest shuttle.

Additional Info: I removed the detent from the shell holder adapter early on because of binding issues. I'm using the updated slider bottom.

Any suggestions what to look at or adjust?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Been there. Some brands of brass have really rough I.D. imprints on their bases and hang on any little thing. LC brass on .223 is bad too. If you notice on my video, I'm using an early shell holder that isn't plowed....Lee started plowing them to help with brass with with proud primers sticking down, but it didn't help with the rough imprinting. For brass that's that rough under the bases I keep a piece of sandpaper....220 or rougher glued to a flat surface (like a 2X4 or something). I know it a pain to rub each base along the sandpaper, but it does really help....For rough based brass I slide it over the paper once first, before I deprime. It's still faster than depriming on anything else. Proud primers don't help that step tho.

Also, I've found that the closer the insert is to the shuttle piece the more stable. And for .357 you need to use the intermediate high shuttle so that the case is a little higher than the shuttle. That way insert dropping down can be close, even 1/16" from the top of the shuttle.

That's why I cut a piece out of the bottom....so the dropped brass can push through it, yet the NEXT case above can stay stable and only drops the WHOLE 1/16 to the top of the shuttle and so stays vertical.......then that one drops into the claws when the shuttle comes back and it all repeats.....nice and stable.

As for the cases going smoothly into the case holder.....again that depends on the smoothness of the case's base, and how the shell holder is turned.

As for the "binding issues" with the case holder.....do you mean it's too tight to turn easily or too hard to get past the detent in the shell holder adapter. I can't see it working well without the detent. I know it's a chore to get a shell holder past the detent, but I just hold it down with a small screwdriver while I insert it. If it's too tight to turn freely call Lee....it should rotate with ease.....they will replace the part.

[GWS]

GWS,

Going over this now, and have a few questions. The original inserts I made for 44 and 357 were both designed to use the tallest shuttle. The one you modified appears to use the medium shuttle. What was the reason for going to the shorter one? Also, all of the inserts I made use the 4 different sizes of Lee clear tubing. The 357 insert can use either the #3 or #4 sized tube. Just curious on that one as you said it was not designed to take tubing.

Medium shuttle is a little lower than the brass as you noticed. With the tall shuttle you can't get the insert low enough, the next case in line falls lower than the shuttle top.....so when the shuttle moves forward the case tilts or worse.

With the medium shuttle and the insert only a 1/16 above it....all stays stable and straight. The cutout keeps the dropped one straight when the push starts.

On my first print the hole in the top of the .357 insert was too small to use tubing big enough for the .357 rim. The rim was the problem....so I drilled it to 1/2" and stuck a 2-1/2" long tube in, then slid the 9/16" (Lee's most prevalent size) over it. You might check my file to ensure I have the proper diameter hole for you....just remember that stupid rim sticking out.

[TylerR]

Medium shuttle is a little lower than the brass as you noticed. With the tall shuttle you can't get the insert low enough, the next case in line falls lower than the shuttle top.....so when the shuttle moves forward the case tilts or worse.

With the medium shuttle and the insert only a 1/16 above it....all stays stable and straight. The cutout keeps the dropped one straight when the push starts.

On my first print the hole in the top of the .357 insert was too small to use tubing big enough for the .357 rim. The rim was the problem....so I drilled it to 1/2" and stuck a 2-1/2" long tube in, then slid the 9/16" (Lee's most prevalent size) over it. You might check my file to ensure I have the proper diameter hole for you....just remember that stupid rim sticking out.

I figured out the slight distance issue right after I hit reply. :)
Thank you for pointing that issue out. I do not load 357, but I do 44 mag. Somehow I must have missed that.

I just tested the Lee #3 and #4 tubes and the rim fits in both of them. The 44mag brass rim fits in the #4 tube.

[GWS]

I figured out the slight distance issue right after I hit reply. :)
Thank you for pointing that issue out. I do not load 357, but I do 44 mag. Somehow I must have missed that.

I just tested the Lee #3 and #4 tubes and the rim fits in both of them. The 44mag brass rim fits in the #4 tube.

Lee's tubes come in 4 sizes.

1. is the tiny 1/4x15 heavy wall tube suitable for .22 bullet feeding only. (PA4340) id is .28" od is .33".

2. is the "SM Feed tube" (BF3490) .49" od. and .42" id. I used a similar thinwall 1/2" tube 2 to 2-1/2" long to go into the .357 adapter. I did that out of necessity.....I must have lost my Lee #2. The .357 case drops fine into the 1/2" tube I then modified the insert file to allow that 1/2" thinwall to drop in......you probably could do the same to allow the 9/16" #4 to drop in, angling the bottom ledge in the insert to not have any ledge to hand on....assuming there's enough thickness in the insert part with that big a hole in the top. So there may be other options.
have.....will it not drop into Lee's #2????

3. is the (TR2458) tube that's .56" od. and 49" id. This is the one that came with the APP that has a thick wall.

4. is the (BF 3489) tube that I measured at .569" od and .53" id. This is the 9/16" tube that comes with the APP, but also 4 of these come with the 4-way Universal. This one is the main case and bullet feeder tube. I did not attempt to drill out the insert to directly fit that size, thinking that might leave a ledge inside the insert that might cause hangs.

I just drilled out my first .357 insert and stuck my 1/2" od thinwall 2 1/2" long (not Lees) Then I just dropped the #4 9/16" tube over the top......note: I used a case deburr/chamfer tool to bevel the top inside of the 1/2" one so that cases don't hang on the edge where the main tubing goes over it.

I'm assuming TylerR's numbered tubes are probably the same as the above?....and so perhaps his #2 with .42 id .49 od would work for the one I pushed in the top of the insert?????? But he didn't say the .357 case would drop into his #2?

TylerR....let me know if that doesn't work.

I like to use the generic 9/16 tube for most things fed except the smaller bullets.....but you can telescope small tubes into larger tubes as needed.(but bevel tops where reduced) If the Lee tubes don't cooperate that way, you can order online really cheap "Thinline Clear Tubing" that does, in 1/16" increments, 1/32 walls 1/4" to 3/4"....but don't order Chinese or it'll be metric and it won't telescope worth a d____.

BTW, it's possible that the last two sizes part # are reversed. Ask Lee before you order them. The thinwall is the one that comes with the 4-way....least it did on mine. The thick wall with a smaller id may not fit the biggest cases.

[GWS]

TylerR: I've been editing the last post to clarify it more....if you only read it earlier read once more.

[TylerR]

TylerR: I've been editing the last post to clarify it more....if you only read it earlier read once more.

Everything you typed makes sense. The .357 insert is designed to be used with the Lee #3 and #4 tubes. Based on my test, the #3 would work perfect for the job, but #4 would work just as well.

[GWS]

Everything you typed makes sense. The .357 insert is designed to be used with the Lee #3 and #4 tubes. Based on my test, the #3 would work perfect for the job, but #4 would work just as well.

Okay, so you've modified the top of the insert for #3 to be dropped directly in now? With it's smaller id (than the #4) cases should be less cranked than in the #4 going down....which looks better. My non Lee 91/6 tubes are 3' long......filled up with cases it does bear down on the shuttle with the additional weight....but it seems to still work.....such might wear out the spring sooner. But it you add a collator....moot point! ;) I'll probably print one more when you get the files added.....just a little simpler/cleaner.

Wish I could edit Design Spark as fast as you can....seems like I have to relearn it every day.....you younger guys don't have that problem......and 40 years of Autocad to unlearn. Habits......

[TylerR]

Okay, so you've modified the top of the insert for #3 to be dropped directly in now? With it's smaller id (than the #4) cases should be less cranked than in the #4 going down....which looks better. My non Lee 91/6 tubes are 3' long......filled up with cases it does bear down on the shuttle with the additional weight....but it seems to still work.....such might wear out the spring sooner. But it you add a collator....moot point! ;) I'll probably print one more when you get the files added.....just a little simpler/cleaner.

I did not modify it. It is the same as it was. Maybe you had an older version?

I did modify it to use the shorter shuttle though based on your finding.

The latest version is posted.

Oh and guess what I am finally doing? Modifying my other two collators to also use the proximity sensor. No more light sensor for me. Prox is just so much better :)

[GWS]

Looks good......the wide mouth was certainly not in my download, and it was only a few weeks old, knowing you are constantly fiddling with the files. :) (the last time you sent the source to me anyway.)

Speak about fiddling....that's why I quit the light sensors....every new caliber required adjusting....

Someday I may even convert you to the tighter case cutouts to stop the next case higher from messing with the case down on the deck.;)

[TylerR]

Looks good......the wide mouth was certainly not in my download, and it was only a few weeks old, knowing you are constantly fiddling with the files. :) (the last time you sent the source to me anyway.)

Speak about fiddling....that's why I quit the light sensors....every new caliber required adjusting....

Someday I may even convert you to the tighter case cutouts to stop the next case higher from messing with the case down on the deck.;)

I just posted the .223 and .308 versions you modified.

[GWS]

Honored ..... the .270 one works perfect too.:) You don't have one for 30-06 do you?

Now we need to fix the main bracket...........just KIDDING! That idea was the ultimate genius. Really TylerR, you ought to patent and sell this whole APP quick-change idea! Not having to change the main bracket was what the whole APP system needed. Takes away the drudgery of caliber change, bullet to case change ..... makes using Lee's APP way more fun.

Lee's genius was creating a single station press with a bullet/case feeder....it makes all the difference. You perfected that idea with the quick-change.

[TylerR]

Honored ..... the .270 one works perfect too.:) You don't have one for 30-06 do you?

Now we need to fix the main bracket...........just KIDDING! That idea was the ultimate genius. Really TylerR, you ought to patent and sell this whole APP quick-change idea! Not having to change the main bracket was what the whole APP system needed. Takes away the drudgery of caliber change, bullet to case change ..... makes using Lee's APP way more fun.

I don't have those. If you send them over I will add :)

Well it has been in the public domain too long now to patent, but I wouldn't anyway. Sometimes its good to just put a new concept out there and not look to profit.

[GWS]

I don't have those. If you send them over I will add :)

Oh....I thought I did that for 270. 30-06 I don't have yet.....just a matter of opening the neck a little, tho. Here's a short vid of the .270 one....I will email the source to you.


https://youtu.be/diFyLzK9Wi8

[TylerR]

Just posted a 30-06 insert.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/8.%20APP/APP_Brass_Insert_3006.stl

[GWS]

Just posted a 30-06 insert.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob/main/8.%20APP/APP_Brass_Insert_3006.stl

TylerR asked me if I'd mind printing that 30-06 insert and trying it out on my APP.

Neither he or I shoot 30-06 so I had to scramble to find some spent cases.....and I thought I succeeded. Only problem was they were .270. But there was ONE 30-06 in the pile. Saved by one. ;)

So here's a picture of the "perfect" 30-06 insert, mounted on the APP. with the one case ready to test.

https://i.postimg.cc/qMdjKK7d/IMG-3936.jpg

Here's a very short video (well, I do only have one) with a .270 following for the follow through......It works perfect....good to go!


https://youtu.be/V2_JcwkOguM

BTW, you can't help but notice the mangled front pusher......

Well, before TylerR's quickchange invention the only way I could drop .223 and .308 straight was to grind the pusher shape back, so that I ground away the stupid bevel on top. That bevel made cases (especially the light .223) tilt before dropping and screwed everything up. That, plus a drop tube with a cut-out, made the cases drop straight and the following case stay put until its turn to drop.

The TylerR quickchange perfected that so much that I doubt grinding the pusher back is now necessary. Will order a new one to test that theory.

Remember if you do TylerR's quick change, to print his sliding shuttle sled base or you won't have the best outcome. It's the special base support in the center that improves that part over Lee's original. BTW Tyler, I did trim that center tongue back 1mm to make it work better for all the calibers....but your experience may vary.

[TylerR]

TylerR asked me if I'd mind printing that 30-06 insert and trying it out on my APP.

Neither he or I shoot 30-06 so I had to scramble to find some spent cases.....and I thought I succeeded. Only problem was they were .270. But there was ONE 30-06 in the pile. Saved by one. ;)

So here's a picture of the "perfect" 30-06 insert, mounted on the APP. with the one case ready to test.

Here's a very short video (well, I do only have one) with a .270 following for the follow through......It works perfect....good to go!

BTW, you can't help but notice the mangled front pusher......

Well, before TylerR's quickchange invention the only way I could drop .223 and .308 straight was to grind the pusher shape back, so that I ground away the stupid bevel on top. That bevel made cases (especially the light .223) tilt before dropping and screwed everything up. that plus a drop tube with a cut-out made the cases drop straight and the following case stay put until its turn to drop.

The TylerR quickchange perfected that so much that I doubt grinding the pusher back is now necessary. Will order a new one to test that theory.

Remember if you do TylerR's quick change, to print his sliding shuttle sled base or you won't have the best outcome. It's the special support in the center that improves that part over Lee's original. BTW Tyler, I did trim that center tongue back 1mm to make it work better for all the calibers....but your experience may vary.

Excellent! Thank you very much for testing out the 30-06.

Regarding your last sentence, I have noticed that myself, and I will make a modification to move it back some.
As always, appreciate your insight man.

Cheers!

[ranger391xt]

Can you post a vid of yours failing? That would help us troubleshoot it with you.I determined that my issue is the #1 shell holder. It appeared to have burrs/be slightly narrower at each end. If Input brass through it manually, about half would not want to go in without extra effort or rotation of the case. Once in, the would slide freely to the other side and then catch/bind again. Looking at a picture of it close up allowed be to see that it was narrower. I used a fine file and smoothed things out and after a few minutes about 90-95% of cases feed without issue. GECO cases are the main exception - seems the rim diameter on those is just a bit larger (and primer pockets are a bit smaller).

I did tryout the new 357 Brass Insert. Definitely an improvement!



Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Thought I should share some interesting info TylerR shared concerning the lack of a .45 Colt APP insert. Turns out there already is one......called the .44 Magnum insert. Here's why......

The inside diameter of the APP insert's barrel has to be determined by the .44 Mag RIM diameter, and that diameter is .1mm larger than the .45 Colts rim. (probably a way to keep some dummy from chambering a .44 Mag cartridge in a .45 Colt cylinder.....a very bad thing since 99% of .45 Colts can't handle the pressure) And both cases are the exact same Length!

Therefore the .44Mag APP insert is most likely a perfect match for the .45 Colt as well.

[RedlegEd]

Thought I should share some interesting info TylerR shared concerning the lack of a .45 Colt APP insert. Turns out there already is one......called the .44 Magnum insert. Here's why......

The inside diameter of the APP insert's barrel has to be determined by the .44 Mag RIM diameter, and that diameter is .1mm larger than the .45 Colts rim. (probably a way to keep some dummy from chambering a .44 Mag cartridge in a .45 Colt cylinder.....a very bad thing since 99% of .45 Colts can't handle the pressure) And both cases are the exact same Length!

Therefore the .44Mag APP insert is most likely a perfect match for the .45 Colt as well.

Happy, happy, joy, joy for all of us .45 Colt shooters!
Ed

[TylerR]

Happy, happy, joy, joy for all of us .45 Colt shooters!
Ed

Howdy Ed!

On that note, I was thinking about 44/45 caliber boolits and sizing. With the latest design of the bracket and the thumb screw lock it has, the 45 insert works great for any grain boolit because you can raise the insert and lock it in to place. This was not possible in the original design. So no need for a 44mag/45colt specific boolit insert.

[GWS]

I know this is a Boolit forum....but I've never cast anything. The big question is whether I have enough good brain cells left to start still another hobby.;) Why am I here? Because it's the only 3d printer/reloading forum in the world!!! Come on......TylerR is here! But I'll follow along and give all the moral support to you guys I can.....

[TylerR]

I know this is a Boolit forum....but I've never cast anything. The big question is whether I have enough good brain cells left to start still another hobby.;) Why am I here? Because it's the only 3d printer/reloading forum in the world!!! Come on......TylerR is here! But I'll follow along and give all the moral support to you guys I can.....

Casting is a whole nother world. I would not bother these days, because raw lead is not much cheaper then commercial boolits. Back in the day when you could collect wheel weights from random gas stations, it was worth it. Lets just say I stocked up for pennies on the dollar.

[GWS]

I've remodeled and built new medical facilities, and have removed and installed walls of lead in X-ray rooms. Saying that's heavy stuff is an understatement. And those employees who had to deal with it were given the scraps and even whole panels that had to be removed. I'm sure they took it to a metal buying company and made a little on the side. They deserved it for the trouble. If I had hoarded all that for boolits, I'd have a 2 lifetime supply. :)

I still have a little, but not like I could have.....but it's pure lead, no hardeners in it. Too bad you don't live close, New Hamster is a long ways from New Mexico. Even have some plumbers lead left over from the early years.

Funny thing is I had entertained the idea of building a shot tower....naw....making shot sounds like work....;)

[TylerR]

Ok why is it so hard to insert a Vimeo video that you can actually have any control over, like full screen or volume??????

No matter how I try to link it, it comes in as a tiny video that you can't do anything with?

GWS, you deleted all your posts, so I deleted mine because it looked like I was talking to myself. :)

[GWS]

Well, we were way off thread topic.....and we weren't getting anywhere with the stupid Vimeo. They make me mad. They give you a hosting place for videos that's supposed to be free then they keep taking away features until we're left with nothing, and try to force you to Upgrade to paying them every month. That's why YouTube got my business back even with their stupid ads....on Vimeo you can't control your own videos anymore. I'm still willing to host that great APP video on my account with full credit going to where it belongs. What I have left on Vimeo I will move back to Youtube....liberal is better than zero control As long as they don't do the same thing and start removing features.

[Sgt Beer Belly]

What die set and drop tube do you guys use for .264, do you go with the 7mm ?

[ranger391xt]

Well, we were way off thread topic.....and we weren't getting anywhere with the stupid Vimeo. They make me mad. They give you a hosting place for videos that's supposed to be free then they keep taking away features until we're left with nothing, and try to force you to Upgrade to paying them every month. That's why YouTube got my business back even with their stupid ads....on Vimeo you can't control your own videos anymore. I'm still willing to host that great APP video on my account with full credit going to where it belongs. What I have left on Vimeo I will move back to Youtube....liberal is better than zero control As long as they don't do the same thing and start removing features.What about Rumble? Only watched a couple things there, but it seems to be an alternative to YouTube that may be a little more open to firearms/shooting related topics.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[Jackbrush]

Odyssey is popular with that as well. Supposed to be decenteralized

[lablover]

Ok….what I miss. Hahahaha. Guess I have some catching up to do. What happened to me! Life and health happened. I’m back not 100% but back. Think I left off on the clutch. Ok then, time to go back several pages and catch up. Hope everyone is well. Btw, master caster finally showed up after 12 months or so. Just got it up and running today. She sat for a bit while I got back on my feet.

Anywho, glad to be back

Joe

[TylerR]

Ok….what I miss. Hahahaha. Guess I have some catching up to do. What happened to me! Life and health happened. I’m back not 100% but back. Think I left off on the clutch. Ok then, time to go back several pages and catch up. Hope everyone is well. Btw, master caster finally showed up after 12 months or so. Just got it up and running today. She sat for a bit while I got back on my feet.

Anywho, glad to be back

Joe

Welcome back man! Hope you and yours are doing well. Let me know if you need anything.

[lablover]

Holy Sh!t. Welcome back man! Hope you and yours are doing well. Let me know if you need anything.

Hanging in there my friend. Things got tough and seem to be getting tougher but manageable. Look forward to getting back in the swing if things. Haven’t shot in months or even loaded. Hell, can’t remember the last time I’ve printed. New laptop and need to start over so that kind of sucks. It will come back.

[TylerR]

Hanging in there my friend. Things got tough and seem to be getting tougher but manageable. Look forward to getting back in the swing if things. Haven’t shot in months or even loaded. Hell, can’t remember the last time I’ve printed. New laptop and need to start over so that kind of sucks. It will come back.

I am glad to hear things are on the upswing, and you have weathered whatever storm life threw your way. Just nice to see you back here and posting.

[GWS]

Okay, back on topic! ......I got a bunch more .357's deprimed using 2 36" 7/16" tubes loaded twice......I even tested what a wrench in the works would do (a single case dropped in upside-down.;)) So in the video below, on the second tube the one upside-down case flies across the room along with the previously deprimed case! That's all....I kept on depriming...only a half second hiccup. Best to not drop them in upside-down too often.....better yet, build another electric collator!


https://youtu.be/zi1Me-IVt1s

Below: So got a load for the Thumbler's Tumbler

https://i.postimg.cc/bN33YJcP/IMG_3944.jpg

Below: Tumbled and dried. Today is .357 loading day. (of course using my new printed bullet feed die.)

https://i.postimg.cc/vZTX4sbV/IMG_3945.jpg

[TylerR]

Okay, back on topic! ......I got a bunch more .357's deprimed using 2 36" 7/16" tubes loaded twice......I even tested what a wrench in the works would do (a single case dropped in upside-down.;)) So in the video below, on the second tube the one upside-down case flies across the room along with the previously deprimed case! That's all....I kept on depriming...only a half second hiccup. Best to not drop them in upside-down too often.....better yet, build another electric collator!

Below: So got a load for the Thumbler's Tumbler

Below: Tumbled and dried. Today is .357 loading day. (of course using my new printed bullet feed die.)


Those sure do look pretty.

[HuskJ]

Which collator plate are you using for.357 bullets? Small pistol?

[TylerR]

Which collator plate are you using for.357 bullets? Small pistol?

I think we decided large pistol worked well.

ETA, that's brass. For boolits, small pistol should work fine.

[HuskJ]

Thank you, trying to size some .357 boolits this weekend and printing the small plate now. I thought it would work but wanted to double check prior to printing. I will let you know how it goes:) Thank you!

[Smarty]

Hi All,

Well Ive started printing the feeder and have completed nearly all of the parts, and I have to say its looking great! Thankyou to all of those people involved in the design.

I have read through a lot of the thread, however havent seen many pics of how people have mounted the electronics in the control box, is anyone able to share some pics?

I have the speed controller board and the board for the LED sensor setup to mount in there and its really tight with not much to screw things too, so would be interested to see what youve done to keep it all neat and tidy.

Still waiting on a few things like hex drives to turn up, then I'll be able to rig it all up and test it.

[wbbh]

No pictures, my wiring tends to be a mess anyway, just some things to consider.

I test assembled the components outside the box.

I ended up using some small crimp on spade connectors for wires that go into the screwed connections of the speed and photo boards with screwed terminals. I pulled off the plastic and soldered the wires.

Tinning the wires made them too thick, especially if more than one wire went to the same connector.

I found stranded conductor silicone insulated wire easier to deal with.

I soldered leads to the round power switch, before mounting it in the box. I also made all the connections to the speed controller board before mounting it into the box.

I made my wires long enough to make all the connections before installing the components.

I used small strip of double sided tape to hold in the relay for the proximity switch version.

[SuperMoose]

Well. I finally got my RL 1100 the other day and got around to hooking up everything including the bullet feeder. Testing it this morning I'm having some issues with my 9mm bullets orienting correctly. Mainly when the collator plate spins and the bullet is oriented correctly (nose up) it is flipped on the ramp and orients itself the wrong direction (nose down).

Currently using a #5 slide plate (I printed a #6 and had the same issue). Any suggestions on what to do or to look for? Bullets are 147gr RNFP.

[TylerR]

Well. I finally got my RL 1100 the other day and got around to hooking up everything including the bullet feeder. Testing it this morning I'm having some issues with my 9mm bullets orienting correctly. Mainly when the collator plate spins and the bullet is oriented correctly (nose up) it is flipped on the ramp and orients itself the wrong direction (nose down).

Currently using a #5 slide plate (I printed a #6 and had the same issue). Any suggestions on what to do or to look for? Bullets are 147gr RNFP.

Try a steeper angle on the feeder first. Most issues are caused by too little angle. Go to the #4 plate if you need to.

[SuperMoose]

Try a steeper angle on the feeder first. Most issues are caused by too little angle. Go to the #4 plate if you need to.

Printing a #4 to try now. I had it at a pretty steep angle and was still getting ones that were flipping the wrong way. Regardless, it is cool to see this actually come to life after sitting around for several months in pieces and only being test wired on my bench.

[SuperMoose]

Still having issues, although less so. It seems about 1 in every 12 is going in nose down. Here are some pictures to try to show the angle, etc. I'm not sure how much further I can tilt it before it loses the ability to grab bullets reliably, especially when its low on them.

Maybe I should try the #5 again?

https://i.imgur.com/pALlb8z.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KyhP8Fh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qTbKXcR.jpg

[TylerR]

Still having issues, although less so. It seems about 1 in every 12 is going in nose down. Here are some pictures to try to show the angle, etc. I'm not sure how much further I can tilt it before it loses the ability to grab bullets reliably, especially when its low on them.


Best way I can help is if you post a video of the problem.

[GWS]

If I had to guess, I'd say the slide has too much ledge that keeps those particular bullets noses from dropping into the flipper....so they can always reliably flip nose up.

Also, I'm not terribly impressed with the distance to the feed die.....and the amount of spring stretch forcing both ends to angle strongly out of the collator drop and strongly into the feed die. Bet you will get some hangs. I've never seen that press set up, but can't you rotate the bullet feeder forward?....or is the 1100 mounted too close to the other feeder on the left? I'd be surprised if that doesn't bite you down the road.

As TylerR mentioned.....a video would help, but I can see that's not so easy with the feeder that far back.

[SuperMoose]

If I had to guess, I'd say the slide has too much ledge that keeps those particular bullets noses from dropping into the flipper....so they can always reliably flip nose up.

Also, I'm not terribly impressed with the distance to the feed die.....and the amount of spring stretch forcing both ends to angle strongly out of the collator drop and strongly into the feed die. Bet you will get some hangs. I've never seen that press set up, but can't you rotate the bullet feeder forward?....or is the 1100 mounted too close to the other feeder on the left? I'd be surprised if that doesn't bite you down the road.

As TylerR mentioned.....a video would help, but I can see that's not so easy with the feeder that far back.

I'll try to grab a video later.

As for the mounting...yea it's too close on that side. I've played with its location as close to that side as I can get it (even propping it up on the other case feed) but the issue remained (string stretch) I looked at all the other images I could find of where people were mounting their bullet feeder on the 1100 and even mounting it there, that string is still stretched pretty far like that.

For example:

https://ultimatereloader.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Dillon-RL-1000-with-Mr.-Bullet-Feeder-Banner-2000.jpg

Holding the feeder in my hand and flipping it 180 degrees alleviates that stretch...however, there is the issue of lack of mounting holes. Alternatively...I might just have to get a longer spring? This is the one from DAA.

[GWS]

No spring stretch in the DAA picture above. If I had a Dillon 1100 I'd mount that bulletfeeder where I can see it out front where the primer tubes are hanging and move those to the back or side.

[SuperMoose]

No spring stretch in the DAA picture above. If I had a Dillon 1100 I'd mount that bulletfeeder where I can see it out front where the primer tubes are hanging and move those to the back or side.

Tried moving it. No dice with the string stretch. Still the same. The only way to alleviate it would be to flip the bullet feeder 180 degrees. No idea why mine has stretch like that but none of the other units pictured do.

Here are two videos. I can snap more if needed. Tried the #5 plate again.


https://i.imgur.com/04TEy3W.mp4


https://i.imgur.com/iHragFw.mp4

[TylerR]

I'll try to grab a video later.

As for the mounting...yea it's too close on that side. I've played with its location as close to that side as I can get it (even propping it up on the other case feed) but the issue remained (string stretch) I looked at all the other images I could find of where people were mounting their bullet feeder on the 1100 and even mounting it there, that string is still stretched pretty far like that.

Holding the feeder in my hand and flipping it 180 degrees alleviates that stretch...however, there is the issue of lack of mounting holes. Alternatively...I might just have to get a longer spring? This is the one from DAA.

I have holes for the mount and the electronics box on both sides, so you should be able to reverse it.

[TylerR]

Tried moving it. No dice with the string stretch. Still the same. The only way to alleviate it would be to flip the bullet feeder 180 degrees. No idea why mine has stretch like that but none of the other units pictured do.

Here are two videos. I can snap more if needed. Tried the #5 plate again.



The #5 plate is going to make the problem worse, not better. You want the ridge to be further out. You can play around with this by manually sliding the plate out a mm or two. Not sure what is going on with this setup, but you could go all the way to the #3 plate.

[SuperMoose]

I have holes for the mount and the electronics box on both sides, so you should be able to reverse it.

I don't think so. The reverse is missing the two taller holes which I'd need for the mount. I suppose I could always just drill baby drill.

Here's the mount side.

https://i.imgur.com/yZh4dg3.jpg

Electronics side:

https://i.imgur.com/DNJJkYo.jpg

[TylerR]

I don't think so. The reverse is missing the two taller holes which I'd need for the mount. I suppose I could always just drill baby drill.

Here's the mount side.

Electronics side:


That is an older version. I forgot you printed this awhile ago. You could definitely drill it. The new design has one hole on the opposite side, because of the way it is designed, but one is plenty.

[SuperMoose]

That is an older version. I forgot you printed this awhile ago. You could definitely drill it.

I'll hit it with a drill now and print that #3 plate.

[TylerR]

Tried moving it. No dice with the string stretch. Still the same. The only way to alleviate it would be to flip the bullet feeder 180 degrees. No idea why mine has stretch like that but none of the other units pictured do.


As far as I can tell, the spring is stretched so far because the bullet feeder is basically behind the case feeder, instead of being on the side more to the front. But it looks like the case feeder on the other press is in the way.

[SuperMoose]

As far as I can tell, the spring is stretched so far because the bullet feeder is basically behind the case feeder, instead of being on the side more to the front. But it looks like the case feeder on the other press is in the way.

Just rotated it 180 degrees. It alleviated the spring issue. #3 plate is on the printer now. Should have that done in about 3 hours.

[TylerR]

Just rotated it 180 degrees. It alleviated the spring issue. #3 plate is on the printer now. Should have that done in about 3 hours.

Excellent news. Please let us know how it goes.

[GWS]

Yup, the #3 should work... This screenshot says it all.

https://i.postimg.cc/dtpZzFCs/Screenshot-1.png

Base downs drop off the ledge because there's dang near no ledge. Easy fix. You're going to love it very soon.....:)

I drilled the backside of one of my slides and screwed in a pan headed screw to hold it out just so....this was before TylerR started making sliders of every depth!;)

Boy, I really don't like having the collator in back.....besides the long unwieldy spring, it's too far away to see what's happening without a step ladder and leaning over the whole setup.......maybe that has something to do with my short legs....You suppose? ;)

I have a situation where a long spring became necessary on my setup, but I handled it without a long floppy spring for my .223 bullets. Picture below shows there's more than one way to skin a cat..... But as you can see nothings in the back....my shortness is less a factor, but still a factor seeing inside......so mirrors came next.

Two stiff springs, IMO, is better than one floppy spring.

https://i.postimg.cc/cCjvMVRf/IMG-3633.jpg

Next picture is the top end of that setup....you can also see how the mirrors help me. Notice the "wrong" slider works fine held out a little by the pan head screw head.....too lazy to print another slider at the time....an "if it works leave it alone mentality".

https://i.postimg.cc/VkNLJRw0/IMG_1109.jpg

[TylerR]

I have a situation where a long spring became necessary on my setup, but I handled it without a long floppy spring for my .223 bullets. Picture below shows there's more than one way to skin a cat..... But as you can see nothings in the back....my shortness is less a factor, but still a factor seeing inside......so mirrors came next.

Two stiff springs, IMO, is better than one floppy spring.

Next picture is the top end of that setup....you can also see how the mirrors help me.


Love that sliding steel mount you created. And your solution there for the long spring is very clean.

[nhyrum]

Hey you good fellas in here, I've got a few questions that might have been answered before, but I'd also like a cross check and some experience.

I started printing this feeder over a year ago, kinda before it really took off. I basically reprinted it about 6 months ago ish? I think?

Anyway, I've got the feeder bucket loaded and ready to feed 9mm. I don't have a feed die, but I have the drop tube for a photo switch and a spring section.

How do the printed feed dies hold up? Iirc I'd just need the steel balls and springs?

I'd also like to get it set up to feed the Lee 230 grain blackout bullet(powder coated, not lubed) what all would I need to get it rolling too? A second feed die, feed plate(of course) spring and drop tube? How are people mounting them to 650's? I can't quite seem to find a place that makes sense for it to go, and still be able to get the bullets where they need to go.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

Hey you good fellas in here, I've got a few questions that might have been answered before, but I'd also like a cross check and some experience.............How do the printed feed dies hold up? Iirc I'd just need the steel balls and springs?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I was very skeptical about the printed feed dies, but when I really didn't see one bit of bad press on them.....and trusting TylerR like I do.....I decided to bite, especially sense I've never been crazy about the Hornady pistol feeder dies I have. I also wondered how "plastic" dies would hold up. So I printed.......one. ;)

Wow! Efficiency is 100%.....I mean it works every time......and I discovered that there really is zero wear that I can discern.....and yet if in a few years I see some wear (which I doubt), I'll print up another for a few dollars worth of plastic PLA.

That was .45......so then I printed .40.......then .357. All three work every single time....... Heck I'm about to print up #4.....9mm and I only load 9mm for my relatives....I don't even own a 9mm pistol.

Yes! All you need is to order is ball bearings and springs. Anyway....I'll leave ya a picture to wet your appetite.

https://i.postimg.cc/5y7rg0fx/IMG-1112.jpg

[TylerR]

Hey you good fellas in here, I've got a few questions that might have been answered before, but I'd also like a cross check and some experience.

I started printing this feeder over a year ago, kinda before it really took off. I basically reprinted it about 6 months ago ish? I think?

Anyway, I've got the feeder bucket loaded and ready to feed 9mm. I don't have a feed die, but I have the drop tube for a photo switch and a spring section.

How do the printed feed dies hold up? Iirc I'd just need the steel balls and springs?

I'd also like to get it set up to feed the Lee 230 grain blackout bullet(powder coated, not lubed) what all would I need to get it rolling too? A second feed die, feed plate(of course) spring and drop tube? How are people mounting them to 650's? I can't quite seem to find a place that makes sense for it to go, and still be able to get the bullets where they need to go.



My first advice for you is, do not use the photo switch. Go with the proximity sensor setup. It is far superior.

Feed dies have held up no issues for me. Yes, bearings and springs.

Yes, going to the 230's will require a new feed plate, spring(and adapters), drop tube and die.

In the 650, you can use station 3 and get rid of the powder check, or keep the powder check, use station 4, and a combo seat/crimp die in station 5. Personally I tried the combo die and did not like the results. There are several methods for mounting the collator and I would check the manual for those.

[nhyrum]

I was very skeptical about the printed feed dies, but when I really didn't see one bit of bad press on them.....and trusting TylerR like I do.....I decided to bite, especially sense I've never been crazy about the Hornady pistol feeder dies I have. I also wondered how "plastic" dies would hold up. So I printed.......one. ;)

Wow! Efficiency is 100%.....I mean it works every time......and I discovered that there really is zero wear that I can discern.....and yet if in a few years I see some wear (which I doubt), I'll print up another for a few dollars worth of plastic PLA.

That was .45......so then I printed .40.......then .357. All three work every single time....... Heck I'm about to print up #4.....9mm and I only load 9mm for my relatives....I don't even own a 9mm pistol.

Yes! All you need is to order ball bearing and springs. Anyway....I'll leave ya a picture to wet your appetite.

https://i.postimg.cc/5y7rg0fx/IMG-1112.jpgThanks for the input! I've got enough filament to print... About a single lock ring... Maybe. So I need to get more.

Which segways into my next question... What filaments are those? Those colors are amazing! Where did you get your springs? The one I planned on using for 9 was just a bit of screen door spring I stretched out to loosen up.

The way this thread has grown is just amazing and I appreciate everyone's hard work on it

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I was very skeptical about the printed feed dies, but when I really didn't see one bit of bad press on them.....and trusting TylerR like I do.....I decided to bite, especially sense I've never been crazy about the Hornady pistol feeder dies I have. I also wondered how "plastic" dies would hold up. So I printed.......one. ;)

Wow! Efficiency is 100%.....I mean it works every time......and I discovered that there really is zero wear that I can discern.....and yet if in a few years I see some wear (which I doubt), I'll print up another for a few dollars worth of plastic PLA.

That was .45......so then I printed .40.......then .357. All three work every single time....... Heck I'm about to print up #4.....9mm and I only load 9mm for my relatives....I don't even own a 9mm pistol.

Yes! All you need is to order is ball bearings and springs. Anyway....I'll leave ya a picture to wet your appetite.


Damn those look so good.

And not a single 9mm GWS? That is hard to do. Kudos for hooking up the family though. :)

[TylerR]

About a single lock ring... Maybe. So I need to get more.

Just so you know, I designed a printable locking ring too. ;-)

[GWS]

Ball bearings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081SQZR62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spring Assortment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7M36W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://i.postimg.cc/bY1fkc0G/Spring.png

Zltech Green and Blue Silk: https://www.zyltech.com/new-zyltech-green-silk-composite-3d-printer-filament-1-75-mm-1-kg-2-2-lbs/

Red silk from them is made by another manufacturer.....and was disappointing. Am trying to find another company to buy similar silk composite PLA in red.

[GWS]

Damn those look so good.

And not a single 9mm GWS? That is hard to do. Kudos for hooking up the family though. :)

I only recently bought a .40S&W....well okay, 2 of them. (okay 5 years ago!;)) If I ever have to shoot something or someone in self defense, I don't want them getting up and shooting me back!:) That's why I like .45acp.....I know old school.....well I'm old, what do you expect? My favorite pistol is the one I shoot what I aim at best.....so far that's a Ruger SR40. Dang fine shooter even better than my .45's. I'd like to try 10mm next.

[nhyrum]

Ball bearings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081SQZR62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spring Assortment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7M36W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://i.postimg.cc/bY1fkc0G/Spring.png

Zltech Green and Blue Silk: https://www.zyltech.com/new-zyltech-green-silk-composite-3d-printer-filament-1-75-mm-1-kg-2-2-lbs/

Red silk from them is made my another manufacturer.....and was disappointing. Am trying to find another company to buy similar silk composite PLA in red.Awesome, thanks!

What printer do you use? I've got an ender 3 with the micro swiss hot end, so prints so far have been usable, but not amazing, but I don't expect amazing from it. I haven't used any silk pla, but iirc, they generally like a little cooler temps? Or am I mistaken?

I feel like asking for print settings is like asking for load data...

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[TylerR]

I only recently bought a .40S&W....well okay, 2 of them. (okay 5 years ago!;)) If I ever have to shoot something or someone in self defense, I don't want them getting up and shooting me back!:) That's why I like .45acp.....I know old school.....well I'm old, what do you expect? My favorite pistol is the one I shoot what I aim at best.....so far that's a Ruger SR40. Dang fine shooter even better than my .45's. I'd like to try 10mm next.

Carried a G27 for 20 years. 45acp is my go to when it comes to pistol calibers these days. And hey, I can ring steel at 100 yards with my 45 Banshee 5" barrel so we might be on the same page.....

That said, everyone should have at least one 9mm :)

But now we are in to that "Ford vs Chevy" conversation, and we all know where that ends up.

[GWS]

Awesome, thanks!

What printer do you use? I've got an ender 3 with the micro swiss hot end, so prints so far have been usable, but not amazing, but I don't expect amazing from it. I haven't used any silk pla, but iirc, they generally like a little cooler temps? Or am I mistaken?

I feel like asking for print settings is like asking for load data...

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Last day of July last year, I bought the "new at that time" CR-10 Version 2. All metal hot end but not direct drive. I liked the plate size. I've had my ups and downs with it, but I think I'm almost there.....thanks to TylerR, RedlegEd, and other teachers. TylerR put me on to polypropylene beds.....all my lifting problems went away as long as I clean it with 99% rubbing alcohol after every print. RedlegEd put me on to the super awesome, no moving parts, automatic bed leveling EZABL from TH3D Studio. Those two things are pure Gold!

I usually print at 215C with a 65C bed. For fine prints like the feed dies I print at .12mm layer height. Takes a little longer, but the print is soooo smooth and dimensionally perfect. I now finally! have my stringing problems under control with these retraction settings:

Retraction Distance 6.0 mm
Retraction Speed 80
Retraction Minimum Travel 1.5

With those settings I Finally I can print those tubes with ZERO cleanup inside......LOVE IT!

Walls: at least 2 sometimes 4 if I think I need strength.

Top & bottom layers: are at least 2.

TylerR: I don't shoot Glocks worth a .....nevermind. Ruger SR's are accurate and they fit my hands.....that's always a personal thing. I'd like to buy a Ruger .45 to try.....up to now I shoot Colts and Kimber single stacks. The Ruger SR40 is the narrowest double stack I've found. My hands are smallish and it just is an awesome feeling to be able to hit what I aim at every time. 9mm? I really don't want one....yeah I know that can hold enough rounds to shoot whole gang of bandits, but the .40 I like is a good compromise. My Kimber .45 Wilson mags hold 8....

[SuperMoose]

I toyed around with the feeder last night and this morning. Was able to get consistent feeding nose up with the number 6 plate and a screw in the back to stand it off ever so slightly. Number 3 wasn't doing anything. Number 4 and 5 were inconsistent as far as all nose up. Every 12 or so at least 1 (maybe 2) would be nose down.

Can't for the life of me figure out why but this seems to have solved the problem...

Thank you guys for all the help. It's really awesome to see people devoting time to creating, open sourcing, and helping others in the community.

[GWS]

So the #3 was going the wrong direction.....ha.....so the bigger the number the more ledge....sorry I had it backwards.

[nhyrum]

So I ordered some blue silk pla and the spring and steel ball kit for the bullet feeders. Next step is getting the feed springs. hopefully I can actually get this thing finished and going! Which means, I need to get casting!

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[TylerR]

So I ordered some blue silk pla and the spring and steel ball kit for the bullet feeders. Next step is getting the feed springs. hopefully I can actually get this thing finished and going! Which means, I need to get casting!



Just a word of caution. Make sure your printer is dimensionally calibrated as best as you can possibly get it. The dies do sort of require that. If you have never gone through this tutorial it is a great resource.

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#esteps

[nhyrum]

Just a word of caution. Make sure your printer in dimensionally calibrated as best as you can possibly get it. The dies do sort of require that. If you have never gone through this tutorial it is a great resource.

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#estepsYeah, I did just recently go through it and actually calibrate the e steps. I remember it took a bit of fiddling, since I believe it had been under extruding, so I had tweaked other settings to get things dimensionally correct, so once I got my e steps right, everything changed [emoji1787] I'll be sure to double check all that before printing again, since I haven't ran the printer in a few months

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