Making that Bullet Collator

[pastera]

I 3d printed a support to hold the shaft level in a drill press, cross drilled and pressed in a roll pin.
Motor I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KTZXYS0
That motor is not available but these are very similar:
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Electric-Reduction-Centric-Diameter/dp/B072N867G3
https://www.amazon.com/LMioEtool-Torque-Reversible-Electric-Geared/dp/B07PVCDB5N

Roll pin:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MKBXSA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MKBXSA

Making a feeder that doesn't rely on the Mr bullet turning ramp could also be done if there is enough interest - I doubt the method RCBS, Hornady, et al use is under patent

[jmorris]

Edit: Looks like all of those Dayton motors are discontinued. Still possible to find them new, albeit at a pretty stiff price. There's a few re-built ones to be had at cheaper prices, though.

Granger looks to have changed things, looks like Zoro has as well, where I always got them. Zoro was always quite a bit cheaper but looks to be even more expensive with Walmart being $10 less. I don’t know, I do have a few cases of the Dayton’s in the shop because that’s also the ones I use on my annealing machines.

In any case the new item numbers are.

52JE51 Is the one that is the 2L008

52JE50 is the 8.8

52JE52 is the 17 rpm one

[marcolelectro]

By the way it's been nice to have some news from Mike.

[6bg6ga]

I sincerely doubt that MBF is going to go after the common guy making a bullet feeder in his garage. The statements by MBF's general manager are pretty broad and hard to back up more of a scare tactic in my opinion. To be blunt here if I want to get/make a copy I will do so without any worry about MBF coming after me.

[HATCH]

I am just gonna leave this right here.......


https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-Speed-High-Torque-ET-ZGMP38_60764755787.html?tracelog=null


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OldManJ]

Hatch, is it ok if I attach the .zip archive of the files that were current on Thingiverse as of November 4 to a post in this thread?

I don't see that we'd run into a legality problem, as these are open source licensed files that were freely available to redistribute (and modify) under that license.

I've been getting quite a few PM's for the files, and was just thinking this would be a better way for guys that need the files to get them.

Did these files get put out somewhere? I just got my 750xl and was going to make this.

[Phlier]

Did these files get put out somewhere? I just got my 750xl and was going to make this.

I just responded to your PM. Check the email address that you sent to me... you should have an email with instructions for downloading the file.

To everyone else that has sent me PM's requesting access...

I think that I'm caught up. If you sent me a PM requesting the file and you haven't gotten a response, let me know.

New requests for the file might have to wait a few days, as the holidays have got me a bit busy. So if you send me a request for access, give me a few days to respond. :)

[jmorris]

I am just gonna leave this right here.......


https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-Speed-High-Torque-ET-ZGMP38_60764755787.html?tracelog=null


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Supply Ability
Supply Ability:
30000 Piece/Pieces per Day

That’s pretty impressive.

[HATCH]

Chinese state run factory


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[jmorris]

Still pretty impressive.

By my math there is 24 hours in a day x 60 minutes in an hour, = 1440 minutes a day x 60 = 86,400 seconds, in a day / by 30,000 units = 1 gear motor ready to go every 2.88 seconds.

[Phlier]

Still pretty impressive.

By my math there is 24 hours in a day x 60 minutes in an hour, = 1440 minutes a day x 60 = 86,400 seconds, in a day / by 30,000 units = 1 gear motor ready to go every 2.88 seconds.
While at all times, keeping to strict Chinese quality control standards.

Thanks for the alternative hardware sources, gents. I'm sure a lot of us that were late to this "print your own boolit feeder" party really appreciate the info.

We decided on "buy once, cry once" for our 3D printer... getting a Prusa. Which means that we're on a long waiting list to get one. Like end of January. Hope the wait and extra money ends up being worth it in the end.

Those guys out there that are currently working on this project, would you mind taking a minute to update us on your progress? Even the little things help...

[Phlier]

Post removed. All good things... :(

[marcolelectro]

Just a little information...
I found on thingiverse some parts to make the openbulletfeeder a reliable (I tested it) case feeder. The parts are mainly a funnel and rotating plates in different calibers (9mm, 223 ...).
If wanted parts from the original files can be used : plates in .50 caliber bullet can be used as 44mag cases plate, 44/45 plate can be used as 357cases plate and so on.
It is not a maybe solution to circumvent something or someone! It is for educational and informational purpose only.

[Phlier]

Just a little information...
I found on thingiverse some parts to make the openbulletfeeder a reliable (I tested it) case feeder. The parts are mainly a funnel and rotating plates in different calibers (9mm, 223 ...).
If wanted parts from the original files can be used : plates in .50 caliber bullet can be used as 44mag cases plate, 44/45 plate can be used as 357cases plate and so on.
It is not a maybe solution to circumvent something or someone! It is for educational and informational purpose only.

That's great! Could you post the thingiverse links here, please?

[dverna]

I sincerely doubt that MBF is going to go after the common guy making a bullet feeder in his garage. The statements by MBF's general manager are pretty broad and hard to back up more of a scare tactic in my opinion. To be blunt here if I want to get/make a copy I will do so without any worry about MBF coming after me.

Hatch is correct in a previous post. You cannot be sued for patent infringement unless you sell or barter what you make. No risk if for personal use.

[Phlier]

Post removed.

I'm no longer going to share the files, guys. I just can't take the legal risk, and the PM bit was too overwhelming. See the post below.

[RedlegEd]

Hi Phlier,
Happy New Year! Here's the link to which I believe marcolelectro referred. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3438569)
Ed

[Phlier]

Hi Phlier,
Happy New Year! Here's the link to which I believe marcoelectro referred. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3438569)
Ed

Very much appreciated, Ed. And Happy New Year to you too, my friend.

[AR-Bossman]

The more I look into it, the more complex patents get. Everyone thinks they can just find a loop hole and do what they want. This has been going on for a very very long time and there is very little you can do to get around someone's patent without serious legal counsel backing you up.

https://www.ip-watch.org/2017/07/19/print-not-print-innovation-ip-issues-3d-printing/

Alternatively, patent owners could target the people facilitating the infringement. The Patent Act permits a patent holder to sue parties who induce others to infringe. For example, potential inducers of patent infringement could be the sellers of the 3D printers, someone providing CAD files of the patented product, or websites that sell or share the CAD files that instruct 3D printers to make the patented invention.

3D Printing in the Future of IP

As an industry still in its infancy, prosecuting cases of IP infringement in 3D printing is proving complex. However, digitalisation has impacted a number of other sectors. Lessons around digital file sharing – including CAD files – can be learnt from the piracy that overwhelmed the entertainment industry in the 1990s.

However, 3D printing issues stretch further than the illegal downloading of music or unofficial film and TV merchandise. With a 3D printer anyone can pirate design files and turn the files into tangible objects without owning the IP.

This may mean that in the future copyright could merge with patent rights – or at the very least overlap with it – as it has become much easier to transform between tangible and intangible forms of products and ideas. Before IP law is revised to reflect this change, it is important for innovators to seek copyright protection in addition to patent protection for a new product.

IP owners should also consider 3D printing techniques in future patent applications. If it is foreseeable to use 3D printing to manufacture a product, it would be beneficial to have patent claims that protect a 3D printing method for the product.

[Phlier]

The more I look into it, the more complex patents get. Everyone thinks they can just find a loop hole and do what they want. This has been going on for a very very long time and there is very little you can do to get around someone's patent without serious legal counsel backing you up.

https://www.ip-watch.org/2017/07/19/print-not-print-innovation-ip-issues-3d-printing/

Alternatively, patent owners could target the people facilitating the infringement. The Patent Act permits a patent holder to sue parties who induce others to infringe. For example, potential inducers of patent infringement could be the sellers of the 3D printers, someone providing CAD files of the patented product, or websites that sell or share the CAD files that instruct 3D printers to make the patented invention.

3D Printing in the Future of IP

As an industry still in its infancy, prosecuting cases of IP infringement in 3D printing is proving complex. However, digitalisation has impacted a number of other sectors. Lessons around digital file sharing – including CAD files – can be learnt from the piracy that overwhelmed the entertainment industry in the 1990s.

However, 3D printing issues stretch further than the illegal downloading of music or unofficial film and TV merchandise. With a 3D printer anyone can pirate design files and turn the files into tangible objects without owning the IP.

This may mean that in the future copyright could merge with patent rights – or at the very least overlap with it – as it has become much easier to transform between tangible and intangible forms of products and ideas. Before IP law is revised to reflect this change, it is important for innovators to seek copyright protection in addition to patent protection for a new product.

IP owners should also consider 3D printing techniques in future patent applications. If it is foreseeable to use 3D printing to manufacture a product, it would be beneficial to have patent claims that protect a 3D printing method for the product.

Well, great. I guess that means I should remove my download link.

I'm truly sorry, gents, but I just don't want to risk the legal crap.

Download link is going to be removed, and I'm sorry, but I just can't keep responding to all of the PM's requesting the files... this faucet is officially getting shutoff. Please, no more PM's. Even the ones that start out with, "I know you said you weren't going to do this anymore, but could you please..."

:(

[r4ndy]

There are a few posts about refrigerator tubes as a replacement for the spring from the collator to the tube. Interested in any working solutions as I built a second feeder and don’t want to order another spring from DA.

[Ruebarb]

There are a few posts about refrigerator tubes as a replacement for the spring from the collator to the tube. Interested in any working solutions as I built a second feeder and don’t want to order another spring from DA.

I haven't tested this, but this looks close enough.

The 20mm OD should yeild ~ 1/2" ID

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32869269988.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.47.4a3b 2309BtKFWd

254457

[RedlegEd]

I haven't tested this, but this looks close enough.

The 20mm OD should yeild ~ 1/2" ID

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32869269988.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.47.4a3b 2309BtKFWd

254457

Hi,
I just measured mine, and the wire diameter is 1.0mm, OD is 15mm, ID is 13mm, and length about 400mm (I'd probably go 500mm.) I think the one you referenced might be pretty stiff with a 3.5mm wire.
Ed

[Ruebarb]

Thanks for Measuring.

Well if there was a group buy, this is pretty close

1.5mm wire

https://www.tevema.com/en/webshop/trekveren/trekveren-500-mm/trm033

[Ruebarb]

Here is another

1.6mm wire 16mm OD should yield 12.8mm ID x 500
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wire-Dia-1-6mm-OD-10-16mm-Length-30-500mm-Tension-Extension-Spring-Select-size/382051987809?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item58f412b161:m:m1acmg3yEMUslUk97nKs-mA&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qWFrsgLXZLvMZFa xTKjnugGcm8XtSdNgFdNveg2ygspm2F%2Bk3FofrIuoNdMxIRW pW3THi07%2FmIGRl453OFrKE4DSu%2Bbya1mpmp8Dk6KUmEjWd UE2OjoOGQ%2BkESBZDbLdwNaPcWMG0Zyh3dXsRznL3vjhzBUfg LGGE8914%2BV1DSmVDxEPbiQF9KJEXlmiNMqUQkmqtkpd7330C zfqDrBkvZYUdT1yl6ouomd9zxhiVqHAOEuPuehpEzBK6x7Kq9j DLFhOpa4gbsXqvqr1%2BbGKZBJdZpaHDY9hDuXmHE1XH%2Ff4K hpAneU1i8NJZfLrEVMiGp28uMbIRKO2x%2BOmje9MZ5HEL6Qx3 lyYMdreVla8o2JP8SZ1SH5yUMaWgTVtx5AVY1tj1TWzJAgxy0W FRpIUhbfOP5OLoaYGGRMvRlJWzW5vw%2BizigZ%2BePG6YMr%2 BVvQZqWKy58a88yJ8zxGkA%2B2%2BIXw4G%2F3nV0NeU9isql% 2FWIX08OUiXeknyTdsYtDNhs%2Bvepo2wASJuE%2B4WoVaHd4e u%2FncC6u8XKms%2BR9vevBsvxh6%2FByCoxJBDtwi8txvW5B2 kTK7pT0nxO0pnm2h2q5ZR1vE8%2FlGgC%2FW6l8EGTKRbt7WBP qSxqTTNZo6M7aDo1fPFwMFR5%2BmYDWHeU164oujONTMgHuKjm Y42OFbKg4%2BDDt%2Bt6S5oy%2FE96KhMvTe5et9lM%2FuPUGf pSPkW1cp8fgacGewZ1GGkSxyy%2BeJIoQXMIsW7xVxR2Nj%2BS rv91pzs9TblFc%3D&checksum=38205198780948fa0eb491d24fafa9a46244ed032 71c&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qWFrsgLXZLvMZFa xTKjnugGcm8XtSdNgFdNveg2ygspm2F%2Bk3FofrIuoNdMxIRW pW3THi07%2FmIGRl453OFrKE4DSu%2Bbya1mpmp8Dk6KUmEjWd UE2OjoOGQ%2BkESBZDbLdwNaPcWMG0Zyh3dXsRznL3vjhzBUfg LGGE8914%2BV1DSmVDxEPbiQF9KJEXlmiNMqUQkmqtkpd7330C zfqDrBkvZYUdT1yl6ouomd9zxhiVqHAOEuPuehpEzBK6x7Kq9j DLFhOpa4gbsXqvqr1%2BbGKZBJdZpaHDY9hDuXmHE1XH%2Ff4K hpAneU1i8NJZfLrEVMiGp28uMbIRKO2x%2BOmje9MZ5HEL6Qx3 lyYMdreVla8o2JP8SZ1SH5yUMaWgTVtx5AVY1tj1TWzJAgxy0W FRpIUhbfOP5OLoaYGGRMvRlJWzW5vw%2BizigZ%2BePG6YMr%2 BVvQZqWKy58a88yJ8zxGkA%2B2%2BIXw4G%2F3nV0NeU9isql% 2FWIX08OUiXeknyTdsYtDNhs%2Bvepo2wASJuE%2B4WoVaHd4e u%2FncC6u8XKms%2BR9vevBsvxh6%2FByCoxJBDtwi8txvW5B2 kTK7pT0nxO0pnm2h2q5ZR1vE8%2FlGgC%2FW6l8EGTKRbt7WBP qSxqTTNZo6M7aDo1fPFwMFR5%2BmYDWHeU164oujONTMgHuKjm Y42OFbKg4%2BDDt%2Bt6S5oy%2FE96KhMvTe5et9lM%2FuPUGf pSPkW1cp8fgacGewZ1GGkSxyy%2BeJIoQXMIsW7xVxR2Nj%2BS rv91pzs9TblFc%3D&checksum=38205198780948fa0eb491d24fafa9a46244ed032 71c

[r4ndy]

Thanks for the suggestions on the spring.

[Rage 01]

Buy The 10RPM.... and use the speed controller.... Unless you have automation I don't think you will be able to outrun it

Thank you sir. I ended up getting the 30 RMP one. But I did notice that the stats on the BF one said that the torque was 1-100 kg-cm? The JGY 370 is only 7 kg-cm on load?
Is that going to work or stall out?

[Rage 01]

There are a few posts about refrigerator tubes as a replacement for the spring from the collator to the tube. Interested in any working solutions as I built a second feeder and don’t want to order another spring from DA.

I used the split wire loom tubing. Works great. I just has to redesign how it is being held at either end.
https://www.cabletiesandmore.ca/black-wire-loom-tubing?pid=232&gclid=CjwKCAiA98TxBRBtEiwAVRLqu54H9oNTY1WyUm-KPSjpYkcwZPi5Zm6Gj38tq7qvIc2DV_DSHkFdlhoC4SoQAvD_B wE

[Phlier]

Gents, just as a reminder...

I'm no longer supplying the OpenBulletFeeder files. Please don't PM me asking for them. Sorry, but you'll need to get them elsewhere.

Sorry for the additional post, but I'm still getting PM's asking for the files. Please... stop.

[Red_Fir_Smoke]

Sooo....
I realize no one wants to stick their neck out but is there a member here, of the legal profession that has an opinion?
Technically the patent is on the ramp? If the body was remixed without the ramp would it satisfy the patent office as to its uniqueness?
And technically everything but the ramp is in the public domain? so feeder adapters, collator plates, mounts, spring adapters could be printed, ( and more importantly; posted!)?
And further while there is talk of rejigging patent and copyright laws to complement each other, to the best of my knowledge those changes have not been enacted yet?
And since MBF has not written .STL files for their product (And indeed the ones in question are already published under a commons license so an effort to cover this avenue by MBF would be a copyright violation!) the dissemination of said files and the execution of these files in a not for profit fashion, is no more unlawful than a gunsmith fashioning an AR for his personal satisfaction?
It seems like far less of an imposition on law than an 80% receiver....
And finally has anyone considered setting up a Kickstarter specifically to defend AmmoMikes rights as an author?

[John3354]

Sooo....
I realize no one wants to stick their neck out but is there a member here, of the legal profession that has an opinion?
Technically the patent is on the ramp? If the body was remixed without the ramp would it satisfy the patent office as to its uniqueness?

Possibly.....but it also wouldn't work. The ramp is what flips the bullets to the proper orientation.



And technically everything but the ramp is in the public domain? so feeder adapters, collator plates, mounts, spring adapters could be printed, ( and more importantly; posted!)?

Yeah....and almost all of that stuff is still available. Some items were aggregated in to the original download but they can still be found individually.



And further while there is talk of rejigging patent and copyright laws to complement each other, to the best of my knowledge those changes have not been enacted yet?
And since MBF has not written .STL files for their product (And indeed the ones in question are already published under a commons license so an effort to cover this avenue by MBF would be a copyright violation!) the dissemination of said files and the execution of these files in a not for profit fashion, is no more unlawful than a gunsmith fashioning an AR for his personal satisfaction?
It seems like far less of an imposition on law than an 80% receiver....

No clue. It would seem like this would be the case, but when it comes to things like this the copyright and patent laws are not really executed "fairly". You have to prove your innocence.

IANAL, but it seems that DAA's patent applies to this design when used in home reloading. From my understanding the DAA MBF is substantially similar to a ton of other devices in how it operates, including bullet collators used in the ammo production industry.

I would be willing to wager that their patent could be successfully challenged. But......



And finally has anyone considered setting up a Kickstarter specifically to defend AmmoMikes rights as an author?

You need to realize that such a challenge would probably be $300K to start and according to my sources average $600K-$750K for smaller claims and the cost just goes up from there, and I sincerely doubt that AmmoMike has the free time and energy to devote to something like that on principle alone. It is a massive undertaking. Years in court. And DAA has the benefit of having somewhat deep pockets. I don't know what AmmoMike does for a living, but chances are somewhat good that DAA has a wee bit bigger bank account than he does. I could be wrong. He could be independently wealthy. But cease and desist letters work because there is the underlying threat of "We will keep you tied up in court until you are completely broke and destitute" behind them. Not that this is right and just, it is just the way that it is.

I briefly discussed the issue with my lawyer and he thought that there would be a pretty good case to be made that there is prior art and also that the patenting of a simple ramp would probably be an easy patent to break but that it would cost too much for anyone sane to attempt it just out of principle.

DAA are kind of jerks. I would never buy their products based on their reputation as to how they conduct themselves in situations like these. But I would be willing to wager that what got their feathers ruffles was that someone was printing and selling the design. If not for that it may have flown under the radar, or at least would have for a while longer.

TL;DR, it is my opinion that their patent is probably ******** but it would cost way too much to fight them on it.

[nhyrum]

Just thinking out loud here, but, couldn't one design a gear type flipper that is timed with the collator plate, so at the right place one of the cogs goes and flips the bullet? That would eliminate their bs patent, no? Take a little davinci type of a mechanism, but I think it could work, and you'd need a gear and cog to match plate spacing and bullet size.

Now for what I came here for, it looks unlikely, but, is there a motor that fits that comes pre pinned?

Also, I am done buying from daa. Bunch of *******es

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[John3354]

Just thinking out loud here, but, couldn't one design a gear type flipper that is timed with the collator plate, so at the right place one of the cogs goes and flips the bullet? That would eliminate their bs patent, no? Take a little davinci type of a mechanism, but I think it could work, and you'd need a gear and cog to match plate spacing and bullet size.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

How would you make sure that it only flipped bullets that needed flipped? And flipped them without flipping them out of the collator plate, etc?

I've considered some sort of mechanism that would basically dump out any bullets that are not the correct side up to set them for re-run. Just not sure how to go about it. It would be easy enough to dump them off in to a catch container, but how to recycle?

[Red_Fir_Smoke]

Well.....
Just to be simplistic about it the ramp could be eliminated, as long as the rest of the collator could be printed, with a bypass so the bullets all fell nose down, then the simple kinetic bullet flipper ( as per jmorrismetal!) could be added inline to flip them nose up, sort of the nose down flipper used in reverse........ viola' no ramp required!
A second drop spout to take the bullets that naturally fall into a nose up position in the collator wheel y'd together above the light switch......

[nhyrum]

How would you make sure that it only flipped bullets that needed flipped? And flipped them without flipping them out of the collator plate, etc?

I've considered some sort of mechanism that would basically dump out any bullets that are not the correct side up to set them for re-run. Just not sure how to go about it. It would be easy enough to dump them off in to a catch container, but how to recycle?If the cogs only hit only the point of the bullet (say have a channel so if they're point down they sit lower, and if it was a gear that was as long as the ramp, you could flip only the ones that needed being flipped. Everything would have to be geared together

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[Red_Fir_Smoke]

Well.....
Just to be simplistic about it the ramp could be eliminated, as long as the rest of the collator could be printed, with a bypass so the bullets all fell nose down, then the simple kinetic bullet flipper ( as per jmorrismetal!) could be added inline to flip them nose up, sort of the nose down flipper used in reverse........ viola' no ramp required!
A second drop spout to take the bullets that naturally fall into a nose up position in the collator wheel y'd together above the light switch......

[digid]

What was the latest version of the file on Tingiverse before it was taken down? I have a copy but I do not think it is the latest. Mine are marked bf_v2 and dated Jan 25th 2019

[John3354]

That is the same version that I have, and I downloaded my version less than a month before they were taken down. You likely have the latest version.

[John3354]

As for ways around the BS ramp patent, I wonder if we could take care of it just by adjusting the angle of the collator and the thickness of the plate? In theory, you could find a height for the collator plate that at a given angle base down bullets would continue on to the drop tube and base up bullets would fall off. Basically the collator plate would only be thick enough to be just barely past the center of gravity of a given bullet design and by nature of them being very base heavy any that are inverted should fall off.

Simple enough, no? I am tempted to print up some 9mm test plates and give it a try.

There is also the option of removing the ramp part of the design and letting the end user figure that part out for themselves. Bend a piece of wire and put it in place, cut out a piece of wood and glue it in, print another piece, etc.

[digid]

Thank you for the info, I am going to start printing one this weekend to go on my Dillon 550

[HuskJ]

Where did you get your motor from?

[HuskJ]

Can you send me the link and part# you used for that motor?

[HuskJ]

Thank you

[HuskJ]

Has anyone increased the height of the Ammo Mike Bullet Feeder so it can hold more bullets? I tried to increase the height in cura by 20% but don't think that will work as it will increase everything on the z axis by 20% and not just the collar? Thoughts?

[digid]

I am envisioning a simple way to tell which way the bullet falls from the feeder. If each bullet came down the tube and came to rest on a stop that was a tube the same size as the base of the bullet, you could measure the height of the bullet with two optical sensors. If the bullet was base down it would be taller resting on the tube. The tube being hollow would allow the bullet that was nose down being lower. Based on which way the bullet was facing it could be sorted mechanically as being base down or nose down. Flip which ever ones you want based on how you want them presented. The only key to making this work would be you would need to regulate each bullet dropped as to not have 2 stacked on each other for the compare. Even SWC could be sorted this way. Change bullets for the same size and you would just have to change the optical sensors. It might even be possible to use a Raspberry PI and a camera module to look at a bullet and determine its orientation. It would be a fun project, it I just had more time to explore it. For now, I printed from the files that I found on the internet and it is sorting my 9mm bullets just fine.

[j_dude77]

Was wondering if anyone had the drop tube files. I only have bf_v2_drop_tube_switch_small_id10mm_large_spring. I thought I grabbed all of the files, but I guess I did not. Or if someone could send me a zip of all the files, it would be appreciated.

[Lakehouse2012]

Hey Guys,

I need you to change direction a bit..... I (like you all) have been loading bullets till I'm almost blue in the face for the last 2 weeks. HOWEVER, there is something that those of us with 3D printers can do, to help hospitals be safer. Face Shields!!! I'm active on a FB group that is pulling together, many of us are pooliing our resourses and making 100's of these to help keep medical staff safe.

Please consider taking some time out from your busy schedules to make frames... I have 2 printers going 24-7, to help these folks stay safe!

Here is a link to my group:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/308667056761036/

[MuthaFunk]

Someone needs to build the thingiverse files into a torrent for all of us to share... just sayin.

[Medic08]

So I am assuming one can no longer get the files to build this. My head is spinning trying to read it all. I was really hoping to build one to feed my new 750.

[Greg S]

My need is to to feed my Star lube sizer. Looked at it last year bef ore my move and they closed it down. Would still love to assemble one after I get done with an induction annealer.

[TylerR]

I am also trying to locate the files. I would love to be able to build one or two of these. If anyone who has them and is willing to provide, please IM me. I would greatly appreciate it.

I am just going to leave this here. Check out the "Show More".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HznohMfdH6M&feature=youtu.be

[TylerR]

Is there any opinion on what the best motor to use is, out of the supported list?

- ET-ZGMP38 (MBF) - Not available any more.
- IGARASHI 33G-312 12v - https://www.conrad.com/p/gearmotor-12-v-igarashi-typ-33g-312-244040
- JGY370 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JHVJYL/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=targettime0f-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07222M77Q&linkId=4996fbbf832c769bf70900d59727be82&th=1
- 60KTYZ - https://www.amazon.com/CHANCS-Synchronous-110-130V-Education-Instruments/dp/B014HLLYZC
- UXCELL centric 31mm - ?
- UXCELL offcentric 31mm - ?
- CHANCS TYC-50 - https://www.amazon.com/CHANCS-Synchronous-TYC-50-20-24RPM-Geared/dp/B01FFBNXJS

[Rcmaveric]

The Uxcell isn't powerfull enough. The bullet centering flaper would bind it up. I could bind those motors with light finger pressure. The JGY-370 was showing promise until the pins broke off the motor. I need to another one.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

The Uxcell isn't powerfull enough. The bullet centering flaper would bind it up. I could bind those motors with light finger pressure. The JGY-370 was showing promise until the pins broke off the motor. I need to another one.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

I was going to go with the JGY370. Which pins broke off?

[Rcmaveric]

Those little tabs that the wires get soldered too. I was going use RTV to support those wires.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Ahh Ok cool, thanks for that tip. I just got the motor and its much smaller then I was expecting.

[Assnolax]

Hello everyone, appreciate all the work everyone has done on this already. I have been working on this setup and except for the actual dropper mechanism things seem to be pretty smooth. Was able to create a feed spring using music wire and wrapping it on the lathe. Never made one before so its a bit ugly as I wasn't keeping steady tension but it works fine. 0.037 music wire and 3/8 mandrel makes a hair over 1/2 inch ID spring.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4L0DRO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002A4BMVU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

260381
260382

[wrinkles]

Not sure if anybody has posted this before but I found a .223 bullet dropper on thingverse. Printed it out last night. Works pretty nice with 55gr fmjs.

260516

[Mark_556]

Hello all,

I read though a lot of the info on this thread, so I wanted to thank everyone.
I just finished mine and got it running pretty well https://bit.ly/2KhrKhm


I used the files here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921/makes
And this motor https://www.mcmaster.com/6409k15 which is the same as the original. It is pricey but it's in stock and showed up the next day, had to drill a hole in the shaft for the cross pin but that was easy.

Ordered the DAA Die + Tube so waiting for that to show up. As well as rigging my own electrical system using parts I have lying around.

[TylerR]

Hello all,

I read though a lot of the info on this thread, so I wanted to thank everyone.
I just finished mine and got it running pretty well https://bit.ly/2KhrKhm


I used the files here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921/makes
And this motor https://www.mcmaster.com/6409k15 which is the same as the original. It is pricey but it's in stock and showed up the next day, had to drill a hole in the shaft for the cross pin but that was easy.

Ordered the DAA Die + Tube so waiting for that to show up. As well as rigging my own electrical system using parts I have lying around.

Hi Mark,

Very nicely done. I am also working to build one. I have to say as someone who has a decent amount of 3d printing experience, this has posed some challenges. Mainly that my Flashforge creator pro only has a 6x9 build plate, so of course that meant I needed a new printer. lol.

I appreciate you letting us know that is the same motor on mcmaster carr. Wish it wasn't so damn expensive. I ended up buying the jgy370 and now that i have seen it I just can't imagine it will hold up. It is tiny.

Anyway I am in the process of remixing some of the parts from the original design and the "mods" version. Some of them just were requiring far to much hand work to get them to fit together. just easier to break out the cad. I will share when I get it all done if anyone is interested.

Cheers,

[TylerR]

Hello everyone, appreciate all the work everyone has done on this already. I have been working on this setup and except for the actual dropper mechanism things seem to be pretty smooth. Was able to create a feed spring using music wire and wrapping it on the lathe. Never made one before so its a bit ugly as I wasn't keeping steady tension but it works fine. 0.037 music wire and 3/8 mandrel makes a hair over 1/2 inch ID spring.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4L0DRO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002A4BMVU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

260381
260382

You know I never knew how hard it was to source similar types of springs until I was trying to find one for my case feeder. The dillon tube is exactly 14mm in dia. So too large for the DAA spring they use with the bullet feeder. I ended up buying some 14 mm corrugated tubing. We will see if it works or not.

[Mark_556]

Hi Mark,

Very nicely done. I am also working to build one. I have to say as someone who has a decent amount of 3d printing experience, this has posed some challenges. Mainly that my Flashforge creator pro only has a 6x9 build plate, so of course that meant I needed a new printer. lol.

I appreciate you letting us know that is the same motor on mcmaster carr. Wish it wasn't so damn expensive. I ended up buying the jgy370 and now that i have seen it I just can't imagine it will hold up. It is tiny.

Anyway I am in the process of remixing some of the parts from the original design and the "mods" version. Some of them just were requiring far to much hand work to get them to fit together. just easier to break out the cad. I will share when I get it all done if anyone is interested.

Cheers,

Yep I spent an hour debating about ordering that motor... decided just to do it and get it over with. Now seeing how well it works am quite happy.
In the video it's running at 7 volts pulling only .3 amps. So a smaller motor may be okay acutally. It wasn't even warm after a few cycles.

For some reason I got very lucky, everything printed and fit perfectly with no sanding/fitting required. I ran everything on a Prusa i3 MK2.5 with the Tough PLA at 5 walls + 50% infill. .2mm layer height.

[TylerR]

Yep I spent an hour debating about ordering that motor... decided just to do it and get it over with. Now seeing how well it works am quite happy.
In the video it's running at 7 volts pulling only .3 amps. So a smaller motor may be okay acutally. It wasn't even warm after a few cycles.

For some reason I got very lucky, everything printed and fit perfectly with no sanding/fitting required. I ran everything on a Prusa i3 MK2.5 with the Tough PLA at 5 walls + 50% infill. .2mm layer height.

I am working to get a couple motors direct from Etonm right now. Will probably be waiting a while even if I can make the deal, but I am waiting on the damn printer already so.....

My issue is most likely I am using ABS, because that is what I know. Everything was designed around PLA. But I have made a few other changes besides fit. Were you able to get the DAA spring to actually thread in to the spring adapters posted by Tom? No matter what I tried I could not get them to thread in.

ETA, did Tom ever respond to you about providing any step files? I have been recreating everything that I modified from scratch.

[TylerR]

Looks like I just closed on a deal direct from manufacturer for two sample motors $86.00 shipped. so not much cheaper then mcmaster, but could order more if needed. That is $20 per motor and $46 shipping , which I was not able to talk them down on.

[packetloss]

Just curious, what is wrong/different with this engine CHANCS TYC-50 - https://www.amazon.com/CHANCS-Synchr.../dp/B01FFBNXJS for $26 , compared to ET-ZGMP38?

[TylerR]

Just curious, what is wrong/different with this engine CHANCS TYC-50 - https://www.amazon.com/CHANCS-Synchr.../dp/B01FFBNXJS for $26 , compared to ET-ZGMP38?

I think one of the main issues is its synchronous. So if it encounters too much resistance it will reverse directions. Not ideal in this application.

[Mark_556]

Just curious, what is wrong/different with this engine CHANCS TYC-50 - https://www.amazon.com/CHANCS-Synchr.../dp/B01FFBNXJS for $26 , compared to ET-ZGMP38?

It's also 12v AC and 24 rpm is way to fast. I am running 5vs into my ET-ZGMP38 clone and getting more then enough speed.
I think the JGY motor is a good choice otherwise.

I have a spare JGY370 I was going to use that just showed up from china if anyone needs one and don't want to wait....

[TylerR]

I realize this is a bit off topic but since I know a bunch of guys on this thread use the APP press I wanted to share. I just recently got my Lee APP press, and like it so far, but the handle was really bad. So I started looking if there were any better alternatives when I stumbled on this. Its not due out till July.

https://leeprecision.com/app-roller-handle-upgrade-kit.html
https://leeprecision.com/images/P/91629.jpg

As I was looking at the image it I realized the metal arms are simply the original arms but flipped, with a roller handle in between. If you look at the original you can see what I mean.
https://leeprecision.com/files/categories/90933_casesizing.jpg

So I checked if I could disassemble the original handle and sure enough they are two separate pieces. Once separated I had to grind down the extruded collar where it sits on the shaft on the body of the press, and then jb welded a washer (1"outside / 1/2" inside) to the opposite side. With a coat of paint, a 5" x 1/4" bolt and a nut, and a piece of dowel I had my new roller handle.

http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?&mid=104711682&mt=Photo&standardsize=908x1210
http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?&mid=104711684&mt=Photo&standardsize=908x1210

[rfanalyzer]

OK. I put this off forever and finally decided to get started with the mandated extra time at home. I got all my parts printed (Thanks Ammo Mike and everyone else who contributed to improvements!) My JGY-370 and feed spring should be delivered soon. Anyone have a complete list off all the other parts you used to complete this (e.g. power supply, switches, bolts/screws, etc.)?

[TylerR]

Here are some items that may help.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Honbay-50pcs-Mixed-Colour-Wired/dp/B01ANHHQ1A/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RGHBLGC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QIFA79K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CN2K8MX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NM4J46/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[RedlegEd]

Hi Tyler,
Excellent work on the handle to the Lee APP! Kudos!
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,
Excellent work on the handle to the Lee APP! Kudos!
Ed

Thanks Ed! It is night and day to the original handle, and anyone can do the mod.

[RedlegEd]

Thanks Ed! It is night and day to the original handle, and anyone can do the mod.

Tyler,
You motivated me, I went out, took mine apart, hack sawed and ground the extrusions, and got it cleaned up. Tomorrow I'm off to the big box store (orange or blue,) to pick up the necessary hardware and I'll have the mod done by afternoon. Instead of a dowel, I'll 3D print my handle in red PETG so it at least keeps a little of the Lee coloration. :smile:
Ed

[TylerR]

Tyler,
You motivated me, I went out, took mine apart, hack sawed and ground the extrusions, and got it cleaned up. Tomorrow I'm off to the big box store (orange or blue,) to pick up the necessary hardware and I'll have the mod done by afternoon. Instead of a dowel, I'll 3D print my handle in red PETG so it at least keeps a little of the Lee coloration. :smile:
Ed

Awesome! I expect pics. And then back to the topic of bullet collators. Which I am hoping to have done within the week.

[RedlegEd]

Awesome! I expect pics. And then back to the topic of bullet collators. Which I am hoping to have done within the week.

I've already got mine, and it's marvelous! I use it for both cases and bullets. So we don't hijack this thread, you can read about some other Lee APP mods at the following threads. Perhaps you get some ideas?

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?396816-Modifying-the-Lee-APP

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?397463-Lee-APP-press

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?390198-It-s-official-Lee-will-be-releasing-an-quot-upside-down-quot-bullet-sizing-press/page10

Ed

[TylerR]

wow a ton of info in that last thread. thank you.

[clint]

the files are online again for the openbulletfeeder
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4305343

[TylerR]

the files are online again for the openbulletfeeder
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4305343

Very cool! How was that able to happen I wonder? Must be more to the story.

[TylerR]

Well the new printer arrived and has been put in to service. Unfortunately the fan in the PSU went bad after about 15 hours worth of printing. I ordered a Meanwell to replace the whole thing, but it's not due till Monday. So I dug through the closets and found an old AMD cpu fan. It was 12 volt instead of the 24 the Landy PSU puts out, so I hardwired it to a seperate 12v power supply. Its about as makeshift as you can get, but it got me back up and printing.

Just getting started on a .45 plate...

Edited to add: I think I have finally found the grail build surface. Been searching for a long time.....
http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?gallery=4875896&mid=104712624&mt=Photo&standardsize=908x1210

http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?gallery=4875896&mid=104712625&mt=Photo&standardsize=908x1210

I am using a sheet of borosilicate glass directly on the build plate and a sheet of Polypropylene Glass Fiber on top. I sanded the fiber plate with 220 grit. Got it nice and roughed up. No glue stick and no hair spray. First layer adhesion is off the charts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YFJTZCB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[RedlegEd]

Thanks Ed! It is night and day to the original handle, and anyone can do the mod.

Hi Tyler,
You asked for pics. Well, I posted in a different thread so as to not hijack this one. (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?390198-It-s-official-Lee-will-be-releasing-an-quot-upside-down-quot-bullet-sizing-press&p=4888177&viewfull=1#post4888177) The 3D printed handle came out great.
Ed

[TylerR]

Still plugging away....

http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?&mid=104712921&mt=Photo&standardsize=908x1210

[TylerR]

While waiting for my blue to come in, I decided to fire one up with some random orange PLA I had lying around. Plan to use is as a test bed for the 370 motor. May consider donating it at some point if anyone needs one as a base for the project. I have to say I am digging this new printer.

http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?&mid=104714234&mt=Photo&standardsize=908x1210

[TylerR]

I have made some more progress.

http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?&mid=104718957&mt=Photo&standardsize=1210x908

Nose down:

https://youtu.be/kIARSS800KY

Nose Up:

https://youtu.be/pbxEQm-qPnE

And I decided to upsize my next one. about 30% more capacity than the original. Just realized it kind of looks like an angry pac man.
http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?gallery=4875896&mid=104718958&mt=Photo&standardsize=1210x908

[Pro2A4life]

the files are online again for the openbulletfeeder
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4305343

And now, the files have been taken down again... what’s going on??

[TylerR]

And now, the files have been taken down again... what’s going on??

Everything you need is here (Show more)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HznohMfdH6M

and here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921

[Pro2A4life]

Thank you for the links above, I really appreciate it. I’m definitely interested your 30% higher capacity design. I know I’m asking for a big favor, but is there any chance you could make one that has the mounting holes for the ET-ZGMP38 motor and share your .stp .stl files?:grin:

[TylerR]

Thank you for the links above, I really appreciate it. I’m definitely interested your 30% higher capacity design. I know I’m asking for a big favor, but is there any chance you could make one that has the mounting holes for the ET-ZGMP38 motor and share your .stp .stl files?:grin:

Yes, the chance is very high. :grin:
I am still working out some of the design, but here is a preview. It has a larger slide plate area, interchangeable ramps, and more capacity. I have also recreated the majority of the original files in CAD so I could make design changes. I now have a CAD version of the mods drop tube, which I needed because there was no 13mm version.

Right now I am finalizing a slide / ramp combo that will feed 45acp brass open side down so I can feed them in to my APP bulge buster press.
My ET-ZGMP38 motors should be here from China on Friday, so I can finally get this new model up and running.

Anyway, once it is finalized I will share. What caliber are you most interested in feeding?

http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?&mid=104725075&mt=Photo&standardsize=1008x756

[reidry]

http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?gallery=4875896&mid=104718958&mt=Photo&standardsize=1210x908

Found this thread and just had to join the forum! I've been considering a 3D printer and a MBF for some time. This was the perfect reason to pull the trigger on a 3D printer! Looking forward to building my first one and adding it to my 1050. I ordered a Prusa MK3s so I've got a couple of weeks before it ships.

Meanwhile I'll play with the slicer and order some filament.

Which filaments are close matches the Dillon blue?

Ryan

[Pro2A4life]

Wow! That looks awesome! ... and CAD files too? Perfect!

For me, the caliber(s) I am interested in (in order of preference): 9mm, 45 ACP, .223/556, and .308, but also interested in 38/357, 40S&W, .380 ACP, and eventually 44 Mag/Spl, and 45 Long Colt.

[TylerR]

Found this thread and just had to join the forum! I've been considering a 3D printer and a MBF for some time. This was the perfect reason to pull the trigger on a 3D printer! Looking forward to building my first one and adding it to my 1050. I ordered a Prusa MK3s so I've got a couple of weeks before it ships.

Meanwhile I'll play with the slicer and order some filament.

Which filaments are close matches the Dillon blue?

Ryan

I took a chance on this and it is almost an exact match to the dillon blue.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCPK9KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is PLA Pro which was new to me. After working with it I really like it. Prints like PLA but strength is better then ABS because its not so brittle. It wants to run hot though. I am printing first layer at 80/220 and the rest of the print at 70/210 (bed/extruder).

For black I am using standard Overture pla.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGY2JP1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Ruebarb]

I took a chance on this and it is almost an exact match to the dillon blue.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCPK9KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is PLA Pro which was new to me. After working with it I really like it. Prints like PLA but strength is better then ABS because its not so brittle. It wants to run hot though. I am printing first layer at 80/220 and the rest of the print at 70/210 (bed/extruder).

For black I am using standard Overture pla.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGY2JP1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have just used the same Filament for case feeder on my 550, it was excellent, better than prusament, the color is close as you can get to Dillon, the supports were easy to remove also. I'm a PETG fan, I only use PLA when I need a specific color or have lots of supports. This would be my go to PLA for the future.

[TylerR]

Unfortunately the blue appears to be out of stock for now. Hopefully it comes back soon. I have about a half roll left.

[RedlegEd]

Hi Tyler,
If you look, many of the PLA providers are out of stock, or the prices have increased dramatically. For instance, A month or so ago, I bought some Sunlu black PLA+ for $17.00. It's now $29.00+. The only readily available PLA seems to be 28.5mm or a few non-common colors. I checked the Sunlu website, and while the PLA is available and very reasonable, when you go to check out and the shipping is $100 USD! :shock: I'm glad I have a few rolls stashed away and don't use a whole lot.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,
If you look, many of the PLA providers are out of stock, or the prices have increased dramatically. For instance, A month or so ago, I bought some Sunlu black PLA+ for $17.00. It's now $29.00+. The only readily available PLA seems to be 28.5mm or a few non-common colors. I checked the Sunlu website, and while the PLA is available and very reasonable, when you go to check out and the shipping is $100 USD! :shock: I'm glad I have a few rolls stashed away and don't use a whole lot.
Ed

Interesting. I assume it's virus related from both a supply and usage perspective?

[RedlegEd]

Interesting. I assume it's virus related from both a supply and usage perspective?

I'm sure if it happens with sanitizer, alcohol, TP, paper towels, meat, and ammo/reloading components, it can certainly happen with this!
Ed

[TylerR]

I'm sure if it happens with sanitizer, alcohol, TP, paper towels, meat, and ammo/reloading components, it can certainly happen with this!
Ed

Good point!

[Ruebarb]

All the people making face shields, took the market by storm and they bought up all the filament. I'd be surprised if even 20% of all those home made face shields were even used. I digress, ebay often has the same filament as Amazon for the same price, just takes a little longer to get it to you.

[TylerR]

Youtube insists on rotating this video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J30mdp-u6MA


https://youtu.be/SeqbjHrK92M


https://youtu.be/4i-aGhVjZiQ

262343 262344

[Pro2A4life]

Impressive!
As I recall, didn’t you say that the ramp is removable?
If so, that will be a very nice feature.
What’s the widest dimension on the base?
(wondering if my printer is big enough)

[TylerR]

Impressive!
As I recall, didn’t you say that the ramp is removable?
If so, that will be a very nice feature.
What’s the widest dimension on the base?
(wondering if my printer is big enough)

Yes the ramp can be swapped out for different designs. I am running a pretty unique one for the case feeding open side down.

Size is roughly 190 x 210mm

[Wink1]

Is there another optical switch i can use?
the recommended one is out of stock.

thanks for the help
Tony

[TylerR]

Is there another optical switch i can use?
the recommended one is out of stock.

thanks for the help
Tony

This is the one I am using.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Wink1]

Thank you I ordered it

[TylerR]

I would like to donate this original feeder I made to anyone interested, for the cost of shipping. I have it feeding 45acp nose up and down perfectly. Anything outside of that I can't guarantee. It has the motor and I will throw in a switch with the electronics box. Will still require other electronics and the springs. I will even throw in a 13mm drop tube. Just reply if you want it.

262592
262593

[gnafin]

what did you use to drive the plate with that motor, as the shaft is to short.

[TylerR]

what did you use to drive the plate with that motor, as the shaft is to short.

I custom made a paddle out of aluminum that could be held in place with a 3mm screw. It was some hand work and filing to get it right.

262597

[gnafin]

looks good, i was think to go with this HEX head thing. but then i would have to edit the hole on the plate.
262599

[RedlegEd]

looks good, i was think to go with this HEX head thing. but then i would have to edit the hole on the plate.
262599
Hi,
Karl is already using the hex drive, and I have modified my case and bullet collator wheels to use the same. It's a fairly easy mod and I usually include a little mushroom on top to make it easier to pull off. The one pictured is for .45 Colt Cases
Ed
262601

[gnafin]

i might just have to do that. was it hard to edit? i am a newbie on editing stl's.

[RedlegEd]

i might just have to do that. was it hard to edit? i am a newbie on editing stl's.
Hi,
If you have Ammomike83's bullet collator SCAD file, use openSCAD (a public domain CAD program) to modify the actual CAD, then you make a new STL. I've never had any luck in editing/modifying an STL other than setting it up for printing in Cura.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi,
If you have Ammomike83's bullet collator SCAD file, use openSCAD (a public domain CAD program) to modify the actual CAD, then you make a new STL. I've never had any luck in editing/modifying an STL other than setting it up for printing in Cura.
Ed

That SCAD file is pure genius, just for the record.

[Pro2A4life]

I would be happy to cover the cost of shipping and give your original feeder a new home.

Let me know how we can go about doing that.

[TylerR]

I would be happy to cover the cost of shipping and give your original feeder a new home.

Let me know how we can go about doing that.

PM Sent.

[gnafin]

Wow, i am lost on that openSCAD to put a hex hole in the center.

[TylerR]

Hi,
If you have Ammomike83's bullet collator SCAD file, use openSCAD (a public domain CAD program) to modify the actual CAD, then you make a new STL. I've never had any luck in editing/modifying an STL other than setting it up for printing in Cura.
Ed

This should give you what you need. includes the protruding hex. You will need to play with the numbers to get correct diameter and such.

module collator_plate(){

difference(){
//plate
union() {cylinder(d=collator_plate_d,h=collator_plate_h, center=true) ;
cylinder(d=shaft_hole+8,collator_plate_h+10, center=true, $fn=6);
}

translate([0, 10, collator_plate_h/2 -0.99 ]) rotate([0, 0, 0]) letter(description,4,1);
translate([0, -10, collator_plate_h/2 -0.99 ]) rotate([0, 0, 180]) letter(description,4,1);

center_hole(shaft_hole);
//center_slot();

//bullet holes caliber
for(z=[0:360/round(360/bullet_caliber/2):359]){
bullet_slot(z+15);
}
}
}

module center_hole(d){
//cylinder(d=d,h=collator_plate_h*2, center=true);
cylinder(d=d,h=collator_plate_h*2, center=true,$fn=6); //HEX
}

[gnafin]

thanks!!!

[TylerR]

I would be happy to cover the cost of shipping and give your original feeder a new home.

Let me know how we can go about doing that.

I will get that package out to you tuesday. Don't worry about the shipping.

[Ruebarb]

looks good, i was think to go with this HEX head thing. but then i would have to edit the hole on the plate.
262599

Here is another option/s for extending the shaft of the motor


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8z2WjhK5lE&t

[Pro2A4life]

Wow! Super Cool! Thank you very much

[gnafin]

that was good, thanks.

[gnafin]

what case did you use for the speed controller?

[Ruebarb]

what case did you use for the speed controller?

I've used these

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QGMESHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

what case did you use for the speed controller?

I designed a very basic electronics box to put everything in. I notice that both the speed controller and photo switch I used are either out of stock or can still be ordered but really long delivery times from China.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ICUMYHQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

For anyone interested.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

[RedlegEd]

For anyone interested.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qt72aJuAcR-ZsdcodPLY2K_Fxm35Sw-s/view?usp=sharing

Hi Tyler,
Link is blocked for permission.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,
Link is blocked for permission.
Ed

Thanks Ed. Can you try it now?

[Daveco]

TylerR
I just tried it, and it worked for me. Thanks!

[RedlegEd]

Hi Tyler,
Link is blocked for permission.
Ed


TylerR
I just tried it, and it worked for me. Thanks!

Hi Tyler,
As Davco reported, it's working now.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,
As Davco reported, it's working now.
Ed

Excellent. I will most likely publish a bunch of the source files at some point so designers can make their own changes. If anyone has any recommendations on changes I am open to suggestions. Here is a list parts I used for electronics that fit the box. Unfortunately some of it is unavailable right now.

I used old USB wire to create the sensor/led to drop tube wire. There is definitely some soldering involved.

Photoswitch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Speed Controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QIFA79K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R5DMLXL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power Supply
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RGHBLGC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Additional female 12v DC barrel plugs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QM9W3G7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4 wire jst connector for photo sensor and led to drop tube wire
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072VMD6JP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Additional photo sensors if you need them
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7V536K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Crimp connectors for switch if you don't want to direct solder
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FQ87PQQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT30 connector for motor
https://www.amazon.com/OliYin-Connector-Battery-Airplane-Quadcopter/dp/B07P8M44ZX/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

[TylerR]

I updated the download to add the mount I used. It is designed to go on a 1" vertical post. Also added some more pictures.

And just updated again..... last time for now.

[javaduke]

Folks, pardon my ignorance, I'm new here and I'm trying to build a collator for myself but need to make some mods so that it works reliably with .32 LSWC bullets and the spring that I have. I'm wondering if any of the 3d models are available as Fusion 360 files. It is a PITA to import STLs into Fusion 360 and then edit them.

[HuskJ]

Yes the ramp can be swapped out for different designs. I am running a pretty unique one for the case feeding open side down.

Size is roughly 190 x 210mm

Watched your video for turning the cases upside down that is exactly what I'm trying to do as well for the LEE APP to do buldge busting. Can you give me some pointers?

[HuskJ]

It will hold up fine. Worm drive with torque. I have 2 of them.

[HuskJ]

I have made some more progress.

http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?&mid=104718957&mt=Photo&standardsize=1210x908

Nose down:

https://youtu.be/kIARSS800KY

Nose Up:

https://youtu.be/pbxEQm-qPnE

And I decided to upsize my next one. about 30% more capacity than the original. Just realized it kind of looks like an angry pac man.
http://photos.impactrcgear.com/i.ashx?gallery=4875896&mid=104718958&mt=Photo&standardsize=1210x908

Which spring did you go with?

[TylerR]

I used the springs from DAA

[HuskJ]

I used the springs from DAA

Curious, which printer you using? I have an ender 5 PRO but my bed isn't big enough to do your 30% larger volume print. I am going to try that print but make it 20% taller.

[TylerR]

Curious, which printer you using? I have an ender 5 PRO but my bed isn't big enough to do your 30% larger volume print. I am going to try that print but make it 20% taller.

I am using an Ender 5. 220x220x300 build volume. Ender 5 pro is definitely big enough.

[HuskJ]

I am using an Ender 5. 220x220x300 build volume. Ender 5 pro is definitely big enough.

I'll PM you the image, I must have to rotate it.

[HuskJ]

I'll PM you the image, I must have to rotate it.

263010

[TylerR]

263010


Looks like you are using Cura, and you have raft, skirt or brim selected. That is why there is a gray area around the build surface. You need to turn off all "build Plate Adhesion" settings so you have access to the full build plate.

[HuskJ]

I updated the download to add the mount I used. It is designed to go on a 1" vertical post. Also added some more pictures.

And just updated again..... last time for now.

Thanks TylerR. I'm going to slightly modify the 30% larger build version and make it 20% taller. Looking forward to trying it.

[HuskJ]

Looks like you are using Cura, and you have raft, skirt or brim selected. That is why there is a gray area around the build surface. You need to turn off all "build Plate Adhesion" settings so you have access to the full build plate.

Which slicer are you using? Yes I'm using Cura, will try to turn off build plate adhesion next.

[TylerR]

Added a few files to the download. Components for 45acp brass nose down are now in there, as well as a snap on extender for the back wall. I also included an .skp file for the electronics box. I am exporting out of DS Mechanical, so not sure how good the conversion is. If anyone wants to try it and let me know how it looks I would appreciate it.

[HuskJ]

Added a few files to the download. Components for 45acp brass nose down are now in there, as well as a snap on extender for the back wall. I also included an .skp file for the electronics box. I am exporting out of DS Mechanical, so not sure how good the conversion is. If anyone wants to try it and let me know how it looks I would appreciate it.

Printing it now.

[HuskJ]

This should give you what you need. includes the protruding hex. You will need to play with the numbers to get correct diameter and such.

module collator_plate(){

difference(){
//plate
union() {cylinder(d=collator_plate_d,h=collator_plate_h, center=true) ;
cylinder(d=shaft_hole+8,collator_plate_h+10, center=true, $fn=6);
}

translate([0, 10, collator_plate_h/2 -0.99 ]) rotate([0, 0, 0]) letter(description,4,1);
translate([0, -10, collator_plate_h/2 -0.99 ]) rotate([0, 0, 180]) letter(description,4,1);

center_hole(shaft_hole);
//center_slot();

//bullet holes caliber
for(z=[0:360/round(360/bullet_caliber/2):359]){
bullet_slot(z+15);
}
}
}

module center_hole(d){
//cylinder(d=d,h=collator_plate_h*2, center=true);
cylinder(d=d,h=collator_plate_h*2, center=true,$fn=6); //HEX
}

Tyler, I have openscad and collator generator 1.0.4 open but can't for the life of me figure out where you input these customizations?

[TylerR]

See attached text file

[RedlegEd]

Hi Tyler!
Good job on doing this to help. I highlighted a typo in your code that causes a failure (space between "plate_" and "h*2.") By removing the space, it works fine.
Ed

ETA: Tyler fixed by attaching a file instead of posting the raw code.

[TylerR]

Thanks Ed,

That space does not exist in the actual code. It is a copy paste right from scad. Just tried to edit the original post, and the space is not there in edit mode. So it looks like the website is adding that space in the html. I just removed the code from the actual post and attached a text file to avoid confusion.

[HuskJ]

Youtube insists on rotating this video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J30mdp-u6MA


https://youtu.be/SeqbjHrK92M


https://youtu.be/4i-aGhVjZiQ

262343 262344

Tyler, in the first video, case feed, looks like you are using a different type of flipper than for the bullets. I can't find that one in your file, can you share?

[TylerR]

Tyler, in the first video, case feed, looks like you are using a different type of flipper than for the bullets. I can't find that one in your file, can you share?

It has been added. it is named "sweeper". It is designed to slide in to where the regular flipper is and is held in place by the spring pressure.
There are some other details you are going to need to know to get the case feeding working. I will try and post that info later today.

I also added the hex scad file.

[HuskJ]

It has been added. it is named "sweeper". It is designed to slide in to where the regular flipper is and is held in place by the spring pressure.
There are some other details you are going to need to know to get the case feeding working. I will try and post that info later today.

I also added the hex scad file.

You rock!

[HuskJ]

I am using an Ender 5. 220x220x300 build volume. Ender 5 pro is definitely big enough.

Just waiting on the motor which should be here this weekend or next. 263181

[TylerR]

To get the open side down case feeding to work there is an additional step needed to modify the plate. First I will try to explain the concept.
Regular case feeding of pistol brass works on the principal that the open side has less mass then the closed side. If brass falls in a slot base side up, as it approaches the top of the case feeder gravity takes over and causes it flip out of the the slot and fall back down to the bottom. My solution uses the same principal of the mass difference but in a different way.

First, the plate must be tall enough to not allow the brass to flip out as it approaches the top. It must also be tall enough so that when it hits the ramp it will not flip out of the slot. I found that with 45acp brass 26mm was the required height.

There must be a pivot point in the center of the slot in the plate, so that when the brass hits the slide it will rock either forwards or backwards. If it is nose up, the base will rock inwards keeping it on the slide and allowing it to pass the drop hole. If it is nose down it will rock outwards, causing it to fall in the hole. If you watch the video you will see this rocking motion in action. Adding the pivot point to the plate is the modification that must be made. If I was good enough with scad I would have tried to program it to print with the pivot, but I am not (maybe someone can with more scad experience can help with this). I did it with #2 x 1/4" sheet metal screws and a small dab of epoxy.

The drop hole must also be expanded, because of the larger diameter as well as the increased height of the brass. I found that with the standard 16mm drop hole the brass kept getting stuck on its way down because the plate would jam it up. I created the funnel spring adapter to account for the larger hole.

I also found that the standard ramp did not work to flip the brass nose down. The brass would end up flipping out of the plate. I modified the ramp to have a very thin ridge that captures the groove in the rim of the brass. This keeps it in place and allows it to flip in the plate slot. The modified ramp has worked fine for flipping my boolits as well, so no need to swap it out when changing between the two.

Lastly, the case feeder needs to be run at a steeper angle then with boolit feeding. This is required to get a reliable rocking motion when the brass hits the slide. I created the snap on back wall extender to account for this increase in angle.

I have attached a pic of the pivot point modification.

[AR-Bossman]

Wow.. that's pretty impressive thinking. Do you have a pic of the ramp?

[TylerR]

Wow.. that's pretty impressive thinking. Do you have a pic of the ramp?

Thanks! Here it is.
Being able to design, swap and test different ramps is very nice.

[HuskJ]

To get the open side down case feeding to work there is an additional step needed to modify the plate. First I will try to explain the concept.
Regular case feeding of pistol brass works on the principal that the open side has less mass then the closed side. If brass falls in a slot base side up, as it approaches the top of the case feeder gravity takes over and causes it flip out of the the slot and fall back down to the bottom. My solution uses the same principal of the mass difference but in a different way.

First, the plate must be tall enough to not allow the brass to flip out as it approaches the top. It must also be tall enough so that when it hits the ramp it will not flip out of the slot. I found that with 45acp brass 26mm was the required height.

There must be a pivot point in the center of the slot in the flip plate, so that when the brass hits the slide it will rock either forwards or backwards. If it is nose up, the base will rock inwards keeping it on the slide and allowing it to pass the drop hole. If it is nose down it will rock outwards, causing it to fall in the hole. If you watch the video you will see this rocking motion in action. Adding the pivot point to the plate is the modification that must be made. If I was good enough with scad I would have tried to program it to print with the pivot, but I am not (maybe someone can with more scad experience can help with this). I did it with #2 x 1/4" sheet metal screws and a small dab of epoxy.

The drop hole must also be expanded, because of the larger diameter as well as the increased height of the brass. I found that with the standard 16mm drop hole the brass kept getting stuck on its way down because the plate would jam it up. I created the funnel spring adapter to account for the larger hole.

I also found that the standard ramp did not work to flip the brass nose down. The brass would end up flipping out of the plate. I modified the ramp to have a very thin ridge that captures the groove in the rim of the brass. This keeps it in place and allows it to flip in the plate slot. The modified ramp has worked fine for me flipping my boolits as well, so no need to swap it out when changing between the two.

Lastly, the case feeder needs to be run at a steeper angle then with boolit feeding. This is required to get a reliable rocking motion when the brass hits the slide. I created the snap on back wall extender to account for this increase in angle.

I have attached a pic of the pivot point modification.

Tyler, think I could do the same with #2 screw and maybe a small washer? Or you did the epoxy to ensure the screw never came out? To find the middle point did you just put the plate in the collator and spin it marking a mid point? Seems about the easiest way?

[HuskJ]

Thanks! Here it is.
Being able to design, swap and test different ramps is very nice.

The removable swappable ramp is pure genius!

[TylerR]

Tyler, think I could do the same with #2 screw and maybe a small washer? Or you did the epoxy to ensure the screw never came out? To find the middle point did you just put the plate in the collator and spin it marking a mid point? Seems about the easiest way?

Just realized I didn't really explain the point of the epoxy. The dab of epoxy at top of the screw is to prevent the mouth of the case from hanging up on it when it slides in to the slot. If you try running it without it you will see what I mean. Like I said, it would be ideal to modify the scad to include the pivot point. Where are the scad geniuses???

I just eyeballed the mid point. Drilled a small pilot hole and put the #2 screw in.

[TylerR]

This is a mock up of what would be ideal for the pivot.

[RedlegEd]

This is a mock up of what would be ideal for the pivot.

Do you have a feel for the dimensions of the pivot?

[TylerR]

Do you have a feel for the dimensions of the pivot?

Hi Ed,

I just measured the the #2 screw and it is about 1.5mm depth. So figure the pivot should jut out 1.5-2mm.
I sent you the scad file. Also should mention I added a parameter that was not in the original Ammomike file. It allows you to change how many hole slots are generated.
hole_multiplier=1.5; // Number of Holes

Really appreciate your expertise with this.

[RedlegEd]

Hopefully, I'll be able to figure it out. The hard part is changing it from a hole (difference) to a projection. It's kind of hard because you have to add it after all the bullet slots are formed.

[TylerR]

Hopefully, I'll be able to figure it out. The hard part is changing it from a hole (difference) to a projection. It's kind of hard because you have to add it after all the bullet slots are formed.

Honestly, I write code for a living, but I am not a 3d cad expert. I thought about it for a while and said "there is no way in hell I will figure this out". :smile:

[TylerR]

With the help of RedlegEd (Thanks Ed!) we have come up with a new version of the scad file that has a few new features. First Ed figured out the pivots, which is pretty impressive. We also combined the hex and T-slot versions in to one. Both the pivots and shaft options are now parameters you can turn on or off. There is also an option for controlling how many holes are generated.

The new options are:

hole_multiplier=1.5; // Modify the number of holes
addPivots = false; // Add pivots for brass feeding
useHex = false; // Set true if using hex shaft

I also added the correct settings for 45 acp brass in the examples.
The new file has been uploaded.

[Pro2A4life]

Can you please post the updated link for the scad file here?

[TylerR]

Can you please post the updated link for the scad file here?

Check page 44 for the original post.

[Pro2A4life]

Copy that, thank you

[RedlegEd]

Hi,
Here's a quick jump to the link. (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=4912350&viewfull=1#post4912350)
Ed

[gnafin]

nice. to bad we dont have something like this for the Bullet Feeder Die.

[mioduz]

There is so much data here, and multiple file options.

What are the advantages of the different motor mounting rotations (0,90,270)
I am setting up for 556 initially, can someone compile a complete list of parts i need to print?

I feel like the majority of my confusion is surrounding the drop tube. Based on file names it looks there there are lots of options

[TylerR]

Just posted an update. I added a main body for the JGY-370 motor. The center hole has been enlarged to 15mm to account for the various shaft coupler options people are using.
I also added the rest of the drop tubes. 6, 8, 9, 10, 12 and 13mm are now in there.

I do have my doubts about the smaller motor working with the larger feeder. I will be interested to see the results when someone tries it out.

[TylerR]

I just printed out a new 45 acp brass plate with the pivots and it came out perfect. Really makes the process a lot easier.

[TylerR]

I increased the height of the wall for the main body by 1". It has been posted.

[HuskJ]

For anyone interested.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_MHcRqlaiCcOOGxz5-DjYn8yy4k4FcsU/view?usp=sharing

Tyler, printed your adjustable mount, can you give me pointers on what you did with it to get it to stay clamped so you can adjust the angle?

[TylerR]

I used a 5/8" bolt, two washers and a nut.

[HuskJ]

I used a 5/8" bolt, two washers and a nut.

Any chance you can post a pic of it installed? There is a pretty good size gap between the base and post mount and I don’t want to break the pla.

[TylerR]

Any chance you can post a pic of it installed? There is a pretty good size gap between the base and post mount and I don’t want to break the pla.

Not really sure how this is going to help but here you go. Mine fit up pretty tight. Did you change the scaling when printing? If there is excessive space maybe try adding a washer.

263671

[HuskJ]

Not really sure how this is going to help but here you go. Mine fit up pretty tight. Did you change the scaling when printing? If there is excessive space maybe try adding a washer.

263671

Thank you. I changed the scaling to be taller but not wider. I will ad a washer on the inside of each side and then one on both ends to see if it helps. Thank you!

[Rage 01]

I did a thing today. I could not find an adapter for the JGY-370 motor. So I made one with my hobby lathe. I am by no means a machinist. Actually I am a chef by trade. But had a little bit of time today. This will work with the original pieces unmodified. Slips right over the shaft on the motor.

263774

[TylerR]

I posted a few changes to the drop tubes for anyone looking to print them.

[RedlegEd]

I posted a few changes to the drop tubes for anyone looking to print them.
Hi,
Your link no longer works. Says the file is missing.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi,
Your link no longer works. Says the file is missing.
Ed

Hi Ed,

You have to go back to the post on page 44 and click the link. Every time I replace the file google generates a new link. I kind of like it that way anyway.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=4912350&viewfull=1#post4912350

[RedlegEd]

Hi Ed,

You have to go back to the post on page 44 and click the link. Every time I replace the file google generates a new link. I kind of like it that way anyway.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator&p=4912350&viewfull=1#post4912350

Got it! Thanks.
Ed

[Rage 01]

What is everyone using for the down springs? Now that DAA will not sell them to anyone?

[Pro2A4life]

DAA still sells them:
https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mr-bulletfeeder-output-assembly

You can also buy them on other sites:
http://uniquetek.com/product/T1577
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2670493167
https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Mr-Bulletfeeder-Output-Assembly-by-DAA-P3823.aspx

[Rage 01]

Here is my problem, I am in Canada and DAA will not sell them to me. The other 3 places don't ship to Canada with out it costing me my first born. I was wondering if anyone has found a place in China to get these?

[RedlegEd]

Here is my problem, I am in Canada and DAA will not sell them to me. The other 3 places don't ship to Canada with out it costing me my first born. I was wondering if anyone has found a place in China to get these?

Hi,
I ordered these from AliExpress (good link.) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.5e367535mF t2GZ) Don't let the term "Express" fool you...I ordered these back in April, and the expected delivery is in July. I already have a working set up, and these are for backup, so the delay is not a problem. I just wanted you to be aware so if you're in a hurry, you might have to look elsewhere.
Ed

[Rage 01]

Sorry Link does not work? That link brings me to your order which I can not access.

Thankx.

[RedlegEd]

Sorry Link does not work? That link brings me to your order which I can not access.

Thankx.

Sorry,
I thought it brought up the product page. Here's a link that should work.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.5e367535mF t2GZ

Ed

[TylerR]

Sorry,
I thought it brought up the product page. Here's a link that should work.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.5e367535mF t2GZ

Ed

That is a nice find Ed. I spent a lot of time searching for different diameter springs when I was first looking for them.

[Pro2A4life]

1/2” brake line proctor springs will work for large output springs.
It looks like this company ships to Canada:
https://www.thestopshop.com/products/gg1216ss?variant=39651924498

You can usually find these springs on Amazon to.

[Rage 01]

Sorry,
I thought it brought up the product page. Here's a link that should work.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812888754.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.5e367535mF t2GZ

Ed

Great Find!
Thank you sir. I guess I will wait for the springs to come in and the photo sensor.

[TylerR]

cdstang found this motor which looks promising.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10RPM-Metal-Geared-Motor-High-Torque-Gearbox-Geared-Electric-Drive-Motor-DC12V/223709217070?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLI CE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200603055202%26meid%3D61 288979fec348d79781ffa0ed2c2850%26pid%3D101111%26rk %3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D122537976758 %26itm%3D223709217070%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2 563228&_trksid=p2563228.c101111.m2109

I went ahead and added a body that will fit that motor. Depending on how it is oriented it will interfere with the other mount holes by a few mm, so I made it possible to orient in 3 different directions.

It has been posted. I went ahead and changed the link to a folder so the link will remain active now.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV?usp=sharing

[Tazza]

1/2” brake line proctor springs will work for large output springs.
It looks like this company ships to Canada:
https://www.thestopshop.com/products/gg1216ss?variant=39651924498

You can usually find these springs on Amazon to.

I acquired something like this years ago (just not 16 feet worth), i thought it was hydraulic hose protector, either way, i use it on my home made collator, it works pretty well.

[Rage 01]

now all i need is a Bullet Feeder Die, like the one Karl Bibbs has.

What size?

[gnafin]

>40SW be nice.

[Papakeith]

Whew! Made it to the end of the thread. Many thanks to all that have participated.
Lots of good information buried in those 48 pages. One thing I never saw a link for in all of those pages was a link for the adapter that couples the collator plate to the motor shaft when using the JGY370 motor.. I've seen a few different versions and was wondering if people are just rolling their own or if there is a file available that they'd like to share? What I'm looking for would look something like this:
265391

Not that I'm looking for this specific one, just something that couples the motor shaft to the collator plate.

[TylerR]

Whew! Made it to the end of the thread. Many thanks to all that have participated.
Lots of good information buried in those 48 pages. One thing I never saw a link for in all of those pages was a link for the adapter that couples the collator plate to the motor shaft when using the JGY370 motor.. I've seen a few different versions and was wondering if people are just rolling their own or if there is a file available that they'd like to share? What I'm looking for would look something like this:
265391

Not that I'm looking for this specific one, just something that couples the motor shaft to the collator plate.

Most people are using a hex shaft coupler, and then printing the hex version of the collator plate, which has been made very easy to do at this point.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L3S64YP/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A7DX8D9PZRWI9&psc=1

the part you are showing in the pic is in the download and called "puller". Also FYI the JGY motor is not recommended for the larger feeder body.

[J.J.L.]

Another option that I'm using is this, but you'll need to adjust the shaft size to 9.1mm in the openscad file for the collator plates, or you could just drill it out once you've printed it, but that might affect how long it will last. It's working well for me with .45 ACP 230 grain FMJ RN, so it should hold up to just about anything, but definitely use the loctite!


Motor Shaft Coupler:
Twidec/4Pcs 6mm-6mm Brass Flexible Shaft Coupler for RC Airplane Boat Motor Transmission Connector COUPLER-GLD-6-6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TV3LMHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Motor Shaft "Pin": (Assortment purchased for another hobby years ago.)
Thread a 30mm M3 screw through the shaft coupler and cut the head off:
304 Stainless Steel Screws Nuts and Washers 1200PCS, Sutemribor M2 M3 M4 Hex Socket Head Cap Bolts Screws Nuts Washers Assortment Kit with Hex Wrenches
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFWRL7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Loctite to keep it from moving on you.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FP8EUS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Papakeith]

Thanks for the responses. I thought that that piece might have been keyed to the shaft. I've ordered up those shaft couplers . While I waited I cobbled up what I thought that puller was in the first place and printed it out. Might work, might blow apart in short order. In any event, I gave it a try.
I've got most of the pieces printed. Just waiting on various orders from the internet.
Is there a particular screw that you all are using for the flipper or just whatever fits? Similar question for the spring housings that mount to the base.
265433

[noacess]

Most people are using a hex shaft coupler, and then printing the hex version of the collator plate, which has been made very easy to do at this point.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L3S64YP/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A7DX8D9PZRWI9&psc=1

the part you are showing in the pic is in the download and called "puller". Also FYI the JGY motor is not recommended for the larger feeder body.

I just ordered a 3D printer to give this project a try. I'm glad there has been some recent input on what kind of shaft to use since I've been pretty torn on which way to go. Seems like the hex coupler is the best way at this point for those who are starting from scratch. Which (available) motor do you suggest for the larger feeder body if I decide to go that direction?

Thanks!

[J.J.L.]

Thanks for the responses. I thought that that piece might have been keyed to the shaft. I've ordered up those shaft couplers . While I waited I cobbled up what I thought that puller was in the first place and printed it out. Might work, might blow apart in short order. In any event, I gave it a try.
I've got most of the pieces printed. Just waiting on various orders from the internet.
Is there a particular screw that you all are using for the flipper or just whatever fits? Similar question for the spring housings that mount to the base.
265433


I used these to attach the drop chute...

https://www.mcmaster.com/99512A111/


Everything else came from one of these assortments...

Various M2, M3 and M4 Screws and washers used for assembly: (Assortment purchased for another hobby years ago.)
304 Stainless Steel Screws Nuts and Washers 1200PCS, Sutemribor M2 M3 M4 Hex Socket Head Cap Bolts Screws Nuts Washers Assortment Kit with Hex Wrenches
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFWRL7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hilitchi 460-Piece M3 M4 M5 Stainless Steel Button Head Hex Socket Head Cap Bolts Screws Nuts Assortment Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRFKNPQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Flipper Spring: (Assortment purchased for another hobby years ago.)
Spring used from this assortment was (23/64" x 1-3/8" Compression Spring) - (Probably too long/heavy. May cut a few coils off, but working so far)
ABN Compression & Extension Spring 200 pc Assortment Set, Heavy-Duty Steel Wire – Metal Tension Springs Replacement Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P5P9LL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


But yeah, basically whatever fits...

[TylerR]

Thanks for the responses. I thought that that piece might have been keyed to the shaft. I've ordered up those shaft couplers . While I waited I cobbled up what I thought that puller was in the first place and printed it out. Might work, might blow apart in short order. In any event, I gave it a try.
I've got most of the pieces printed. Just waiting on various orders from the internet.
Is there a particular screw that you all are using for the flipper or just whatever fits? Similar question for the spring housings that mount to the base.
265433

I just use various sheet metal screws I have lying around. Could be found at lowes or HD I'm sure.

The spring from a ball point pen works good for the flipper.

[TylerR]

I just ordered a 3D printer to give this project a try. I'm glad there has been some recent input on what kind of shaft to use since I've been pretty torn on which way to go. Seems like the hex coupler is the best way at this point for those who are starting from scratch. Which (available) motor do you suggest for the larger feeder body if I decide to go that direction?

Thanks!

This:
https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

Or try this one. (No feedback on this one yet)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10RPM-Metal-Geared-Motor-High-Torque-Gearbox-Geared-Electric-Drive-Motor-DC12V/223709217070?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLI CE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200603055202%26meid%3D61 288979fec348d79781ffa0ed2c2850%26pid%3D101111%26rk %3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D122537976758 %26itm%3D223709217070%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2 563228&_trksid=p2563228.c101111.m2109



Edited: Just to be clear, the coupler is being used for the smaller JGY motor. For the other motors people are generally drilling a hole in the shaft and driving a pin, which can be challenging if the shaft is quality hardened steel. (Don't ask me how I know)

[Qunchr]

Is anyone making these for others? I need one that does cases both base down and mouth down for my new Lee APP. Thanks.

[J.J.L.]

Karl Bibb's reloading stuff

https://www.facebook.com/groups/609033382832289

[TylerR]

Karl Bibb's reloading stuff

https://www.facebook.com/groups/609033382832289

I don't believe he offers a case mouth down feed option.

[Qunchr]

I talked to Karl about it and he said he couldn't do it. I purchase a case feeder from him to add to one of my reloaders. Very responsive to my questions and my order shipped within a day.

I played with BB with rim down yesterday, after seeing videos of commercial processors doing it, I compared cases running rim vs. mouth down and saw no difference. Also noted no significant case lengthening. Only issue was that the plunger was to short to push round all the way through. I'm having a new plunger machined that is 1/2 inch longer and should push round through. This should greatly increase BB speed and eliminate one of the repetitive motions.

[TylerR]

I talked to Karl about it and he said he couldn't do it. I purchase a case feeder from him to add to one of my reloaders. Very responsive to my questions and my order shipped within a day.

I played with BB with rim down yesterday, after seeing videos of commercial processors doing it, I compared cases running rim vs. mouth down and saw no difference. Also noted no significant case lengthening. Only issue was that the plunger was to short to push round all the way through. I'm having a new plunger machined that is 1/2 inch longer and should push round through. This should greatly increase BB speed and eliminate one of the repetitive motions.

I apologize but what is BB? And are you saying you were able to successfully feed case mouth down with a standard case feeder?

[Qunchr]

Bulge Busting, Slang for getting rid of the bulge on the base of cases that are fired from barrels that are not fully supported. Happens with the rounds I shoot out of my Glocks. I have started BB with rim down using a standard case feeder. I had a modified push through punch machined.

[nhyrum]

Well holy cow this has really picked up since I was last here... Looks like I have to reprint about half my stuff!! I just have the base, plate, and drop tube I think. Got I have the... Tiny... Motor (hey, size doesn't matter... Right guys...?)[emoji1787] Anyway, I'm thinking about just printing the larger one, I have an ender 3, and it LOOKS like it will fit when I load it in to cura. Anyway, since I didn't put anything together because I gave up trying to drill the itty bitty shaft for a pin and don't want a hand that looks like Swiss cheese... I think I'm at LEAST going to order the hex coupler and print a new wheel, which if I'm doing that anyway... May as well print the big one, right? And use my current motor till it dies and get a new one.

I really do want to thank everyone who has put in the effort to add to, modify, improve the feeder and give all that work and time to others.

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[Jakenheimer]

I want to start by thanking everyone for their input in this amazing thread!
I am in the process of printing the larger feeder provided by TylerR, thanks!!

I wanted to know if anyone has recommendations for bullet feeder die files. I have read that RCBS and Hornandy bullet feeder dies are great quality but I would like to see if I can get away with something printed. I also watched a video that showed said the Dillon powder funnel/expander isn't stepped so it doesn't work all that well?
Any info is greatly appreciated.

[Rage 01]

I want to start by thanking everyone for their input in this amazing thread!
I am in the process of printing the larger feeder provided by TylerR, thanks!!

I wanted to know if anyone has recommendations for bullet feeder die files. I have read that RCBS and Hornandy bullet feeder dies are great quality but I would like to see if I can get away with something printed. I also watched a video that showed said the Dillon powder funnel/expander isn't stepped so it doesn't work all that well?
Any info is greatly appreciated.

First go on thingiverse you will find a wide assortment of bullet droppers you can 3d print. Some work, some didn't for what I wanted so I made my own. Not that hard really. Once you understand how they work. As for the Dillon Powder Funnel/Expander. I use the stock one that came with my Dillon setup/Dillon Dies. Don't have any problems what so ever. Mind you I am only running 9mm, 40 S&W and 223. I can't say anything about any other calibers.

Hope that helps.

[Jakenheimer]

First go on thingiverse you will find a wide assortment of bullet droppers you can 3d print. Some work, some didn't for what I wanted so I made my own. Not that hard really. Once you understand how they work. As for the Dillon Powder Funnel/Expander. I use the stock one that came with my Dillon setup/Dillon Dies. Don't have any problems what so ever. Mind you I am only running 9mm, 40 S&W and 223. I can't say anything about any other calibers.

Hope that helps.

Fantastic info, thanks!! I have more confidence in trying the feeder with the standard powder funnel.
Any chance you would be able to provide links or .stl files for the bullet droppers? I have tried a one for 9mm and didn't have much luck with it. I am looking to load 9mm, .45acp, .223, and possibly .308 but right now I am just working to get the initial set up for 9mm.
I have the larger feeder body printed but am still sorting through all the other parts to see which I need to print. Tyler has really created a lot of mods!
Thank you again for the reply and the help.:mrgreen:

[nhyrum]

I have the larger feeder body printed but am still sorting through all the other parts to see which I need to print. Tyler has really created a lot of mods!
Thank you again for the reply and the help.:mrgreen:

Yeah I'm in the same boat. I've got parts printed out that I'm not sure I need... Looking at the photos he added helped me understand better what I need and what I don't

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[n10sivern]

ok guys, I'm about to venture down this path again. I printed the all the plates about a year ago but since then the MBF motors are unavailable. Do I need to just toss them. What motor should I go with now? I'm about to bust out the PETG and have 3 printers making parts for 4 Dillon 650's.

My Dillons are naked
266822

[nhyrum]

ok guys, I'm about to venture down this path again. I printed the all the plates about a year ago but since then the MBF motors are unavailable. Do I need to just toss them. What motor should I go with now? I'm about to bust out the PETG and have 3 printers making parts for 4 Dillon 650's.Yeah, I'd ditch them. I printed all the parts a while ago too. I made the new plates have the hex coupler, I already had the jgy 370 motor. Since I needed to reprint the plates, I also decided to just go with the larger version.

As for motors, I haven't used mine yet (I think I just need to wire it up and get a spring/tube) but from what I hear, it's a bit on the small side.

[Jakenheimer]

Ugh, so I am excited to use the larger collator but I just realized something. The 9mm bullet plate is for the smaller body and the only bullet plate I see for the larger body is the .45acp (which I also need so I will be printing it). I think Tyler was working on a brass processing plate with this build, so I think that was his focus.
Does anyone have an .stl of the 9mm plate (and possibly .223 & .308 :shock:) in the larger size? I could scale it in my slicer but that would make the bullet chambers larger as well and I don't have the skills to modify the plate myself. while I would like to learn to modify the files I just don't have the time.
Thank you to any help that is available!

[nhyrum]

Ugh, so I am excited to use the larger collator but I just realized something. The 9mm bullet plate is for the smaller body and the only bullet plate I see for the larger body is the .45acp (which I also need so I will be printing it). I think Tyler was working on a brass processing plate with this build, so I think that was his focus.
Does anyone have an .stl of the 9mm plate (and possibly .223 & .308 :shock:) in the larger size? I could scale it in my slicer but that would make the bullet chambers larger as well and I don't have the skills to modify the plate myself. while I would like to learn to modify the files I just don't have the time.
Thank you to any help that is available!You have to use the opens cad file. It's actually INCREDIBLY easy to just change a few numbers and get a plate in whatever caliber you need

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[nhyrum]

Literally you change a few numbers. On the side once you open the mesh file it's got directions on what to change, update, render, export, slice, print

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[Rage 01]

Fantastic info, thanks!! I have more confidence in trying the feeder with the standard powder funnel.
Any chance you would be able to provide links or .stl files for the bullet droppers? I have tried a one for 9mm and didn't have much luck with it. I am looking to load 9mm, .45acp, .223, and possibly .308 but right now I am just working to get the initial set up for 9mm.
I have the larger feeder body printed but am still sorting through all the other parts to see which I need to print. Tyler has really created a lot of mods!
Thank you again for the reply and the help.:mrgreen:

I have had good luck with this bullet dropper- 9mm. Also check the other droppers he makes I think his 223 is not bad as well, but his 40 S&W is not finished yet. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4257070

If you want to skip the printing of these all together there is a fellow named Karl Bibb he has a facebook page here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/609033382832289
You can just buy which ever one you want.

[Rage 01]

ok guys, I'm about to venture down this path again. I printed the all the plates about a year ago but since then the MBF motors are unavailable. Do I need to just toss them. What motor should I go with now? I'm about to bust out the PETG and have 3 printers making parts for 4 Dillon 650's.

My Dillons are naked
266822

Nope you don't need to reprint. Unless you want to use the bigger bucket. You can use the Jgy-370 motor. Do a google search on the top piece for the motor that the plate sits on. I have a lathe so I just made one in the garage. But there are other ways to do it, just need to be resourceful. But if making new plates might be easier for you.

[Jakenheimer]

Literally you change a few numbers. On the side once you open the mesh file it's got directions on what to change, update, render, export, slice, print

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Any chance anyone has the mesh file? I got all brave after reading your post and went to thingiverse and clicked the link.....got a 404 error. Maybe I am just looking in the wrong place?

[Jakenheimer]

Scratch that...I think I found it in the files from Tyler.

[nhyrum]

Any chance anyone has the mesh file? I got all brave after reading your post and went to thingiverse and clicked the link.....got a 404 error. Maybe I am just looking in the wrong place?You should have it if you have the bigger feeder. It's the one file that's different.

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[n10sivern]

Where are the links for the hexagon opening plates?

[Jakenheimer]

Where are the links for the hexagon opening plates?

I am not sure if there are files readily created for that. If you use the plate generator it looks like there is an option to create an .stl with the hex opening. There is a "Use Hex" check box as well as adjustments for the shaft opening size.

Program can be found here: http://www.openscad.org/downloads.html and as was pointed out to me, the plate generator .scad file is in the bundle.

[Jakenheimer]

Sorry to bug you all again but I have another question.
In the .scad program there are clear instructions on how to alter the design, which is much appreciated!
I would like to know if the instructions have "ballpark" parameters, or if they are exact. For example, to create a 9mm plate it says to alter the caliber field to 9. The plate I have for my standard bullet feeder has bullet slots that are closer to 10mm. It also instructs you to use 11.43mm as the caliber selection for .45acp which is exactly .45" converted to mm.
Does the program "know" that the caliber is the guideline and that the openings need to be a bit larger?
I only ask because it takes several hours to print and I would prefer to not waste filament.

[TylerR]

Sorry to bug you all again but I have another question.
In the .scad program there are clear instructions on how to alter the design, which is much appreciated!
I would like to know if the instructions have "ballpark" parameters, or if they are exact. For example, to create a 9mm plate it says to alter the caliber field to 9. The plate I have for my standard bullet feeder has bullet slots that are closer to 10mm. It also instructs you to use 11.43mm as the caliber selection for .45acp which is exactly .45" converted to mm.
Does the program "know" that the caliber is the guideline and that the openings need to be a bit larger?
I only ask because it takes several hours to print and I would prefer to not waste filament.


The short answer is yes, it does add some buffer.
That is purpose of this line below.

// Other
bullet_caliber=caliber+1.2; //caliber in (mm) + 1.0 to 1.5 mm!!!

[Jakenheimer]

The short answer is yes, it does add some buffer.
That is purpose of this line below.

// Other
bullet_caliber=caliber+1.2; //caliber in (mm) + 1.0 to 1.5 mm!!!

Thank you Tyler! I really appreciate all the work you have put into these designs.

[nhyrum]

Ok, so i think I got everything thing I need besides the spring. I’m trying to wire up my electronics, which I bought a while ago before all the awesome improvements. I’ve got my 12v power supply, speed controller and a photoresistor switching relay. I’m thinking this will go between the speed controller and the motor? I could post a link to one that’s similar to what I have if needed.


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[n10sivern]

ok. Forgive me for my 5000 questions. I reload for 380, 9mm, 38spl, 357mag, 45acp, 223, 6.5 Grendel, 300AAC, 308win, and 358win on my Dillons, so I would like bullet feeders that will support each caliber.

What are y'all using for bullet dropper dies? I see that Karl Bibbs sells them for $25 each but I haven't found the STLs for them.

Motor $15
JGY370 10RPM motor (https://www.amazon.com/Bringsmart-JGY-370-Turbine-Electric-Self-locking/dp/B078JHVJYL)

Motor speed controller $9
.8v 3v 5v 6v 7.2v 12v 2A 30W Low Voltage DC Motor Speed Controller PWM 1803BK 1803B Adjustable Driver Switch (https://www.amazon.com/unidades-controlador-velocidad-interruptor-ajustable/dp/B07FLJ6ZHQ/)

Photoresistor relay $19
GERI 12V Light Control Switch The Photoresistor Plus Relay Module The Light Detection Switch Photosensitive Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VFBUFUS/)

LED lights $7
5mm 12V DC White LED Pre-Wired Round Top Bulb Lamp (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H98OS2W)

Power supply ???

Output Springs $24
DAA Mr.Bulletfeeder output spring and extension adaptor (small and large)


These are the files that I need to print correct? Am I missing any?
bf_v3_base_WH120_JGY370_0degrees.stl (do I need the 0, 90, or 270 degree version instead?)
bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide.stl
bf_v2_flipper_v2.stl
bf_v2_led_coupler_large_spring.stl
bf_v2_led_coupler_small_spring.stl
bf_v2_spring_housing_large_v2.stl
bf_v2_spring_housing_small_v2.stl
bf_v2_mount_hang_WH120.stl
bf_v2_electronic_housing_mount_left_side.stl
Connector_JGY370_Shaft_Plate_OpenBulletFeeder.stl

Which drop tubes do I need for my calibers? It lists 10mm for 9mm Luger, so do I need to just pick one size up for each caliber?

[nhyrum]

What are y'all using for bullet dropper dies? I see that Karl Bibbs sells them for $25 each but I haven't found the STLs for them.


Post #971 has a link to feeder dies. I think most that buy a die, and use it on a Dillon press, use the daa die. I'm not buying anything else from Saul though.

For my spring, I just got a spring that looks like it's for like a screen door. 2 ish feet long, and I think 9/16, which is slightly larger than the small spring adapter. Other than that, it seems about prefect.

As for the rest of your question, that all looks right to me, but I've yet to get mine running yet.

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[nhyrum]

Ok so I got the photo switch wired up. I got the 10 rpm 370 motor, which I feel is on the fast side, it doesn't slow down much before it just stops.

I do have an issue where it either won't flip anything, or flips everything. Then bullets go flying out of both holes! And being so fast it was hard for me to see if they were all the same orientation. The only way I could get it to flip anything was to pull the flipper plate out a bit. In the first photo you can see that it doesn't touch the bullets before the first hole, the one in the flipper. Now, mind you this was just on my counter, catching the bullets in my hand as a dry runhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200827/74bf75cfd57ebfb54c7568b0b5cf36dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200827/25859561a57060924a359095b2539b3d.jpg

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[Michael303]

ok guys, I'm about to venture down this path again. I printed the all the plates about a year ago but since then the MBF motors are unavailable. Do I need to just toss them. What motor should I go with now? I'm about to bust out the PETG and have 3 printers making parts for 4 Dillon 650's.

My Dillons are naked
266822

Someone else shared this motor a few pages ago. It seems to be the same as the original DAA. https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/

I went ahead and bought one and the decal on it says it's a Molon CHM-1225-1M. You can find it in a few variations here: https://molon.com/standard-stock-motors-gearmotors/dc-motors-gearmotors/chm-dc-permanent-magnet

I printed the V3 ET-ZGMP38 base. The holes for the mounting posts were a bit tight but it fit perfectly other than that.

I can't speak to how it compares to the other motor you're considering but it's an option.

[TylerR]

Ok so I got the photo switch wired up. I got the 10 rpm 370 motor, which I feel is on the fast side, it doesn't slow down much before it just stops.

I do have an issue where it either won't flip anything, or flips everything. Then bullets go flying out of both holes! And being so fast it was hard for me to see if they were all the same orientation. The only way I could get it to flip anything was to pull the flipper plate out a bit. In the first photo you can see that it doesn't touch the bullets before the first hole, the one in the flipper. Now, mind you this was just on my counter, catching the bullets in my hand as a dry run

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That is the plate for nose down feeding. Is that what you are trying to do? If so the second hole has to be plugged. What caliber is this? Those plates were designed specifically around 45acp, but could be used for other calibers if pulled out slightly. Eventually I will get around to making dedicated plates for other calibers.

[nhyrum]

That is the plate for nose down feeding. Is that what you are trying to do? If so the second hole has to be plugged. What caliber is this? Those plates were designed specifically around 45acp, but could be used for other calibers if pulled out slightly. Eventually I will get around to making dedicated plates for other calibers.I printed the plate for nose up feeding... In pretty sure at least. Once I get another fitting thing printed, so I can screw the plug in, I think I'll be good to go. I discovered if I pull the flipping plate out just the perfect amount, it will flip just the nose down ones to nose up.

It looks like the flipping plates might be named by the bullets they are designed to flip, not the desired position. So "slide nose down" is the desired slide for nose up output.

This is currently for 9mm, with 115 jhp. But using this to feed my 454 casull will be handy too. Anyone test this with say, Keith style 250-350 grain bullets? I've got a 45 plate qued and ready to go, once I get the drop tube printed. I'm on take 3, because it will get within an inch of the top and it lets go of the bed, so this go I'm using a raft, tree supports, and slowing way down.

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[TylerR]

I printed the plate for nose up feeding... In pretty sure at least. Once I get another fitting thing printed, so I can screw the plug in, I think I'll be good to go. I discovered if I pull the flipping plate out just the perfect amount, it will flip just the nose down ones to nose up.

It looks like the flipping plates might be named by the bullets they are designed to flip, not the desired position. So "slide nose down" is the desired slide for nose up output.

This is currently for 9mm, with 115 jhp. But using this to feed my 454 casull will be handy too. Anyone test this with say, Keith style 250-350 grain bullets? I've got a 45 plate qued and ready to go, once I get the drop tube printed. I'm on take 3, because it will get within an inch of the top and it lets go of the bed, so this go I'm using a raft, tree supports, and slowing way down.

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Now that I am looking at the filenames, I realize they are incorrect. The plate you have shown in your picture is designed to feed bullets nose down, not nose up. I am going to fix the file names and re-post them. Sorry for the confusion. Print the other plate and use that if you want to feed nose up.

If you haven't already you can see the plates in action in the videos on page 43.

[jmorris]

I printed the all the plates about a year ago but since then the MBF motors are unavailable.



The Dayton 2L007, 2L008 and 2L009 all have the same mounting dimensions.

https://www.radwell.com/Shop?source=GoogleShopping&IgnoreRedirect=true&ItemSingleId=123861653&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp123861653&sc_intid=123861653&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-pKe98XA6wIVhcDACh2IvASUEAYYASABEgK8W_D_BwE

[nhyrum]

Ok, so I've run into another issue, with both 265 grain Keith style .452 and a 152 grain round nose 9mm. The front of the ramp piece, that screws onto the base, is too abrupt an angle. The bullets begin to rotate, hit the ramp, and get pushed back in, after going up that first little face of the ramp. I believe that is a modification I could do given time.

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[TylerR]

Ok, so I've run into another issue, with both 265 grain Keith style .452 and a 152 grain round nose 9mm. The front of the ramp piece, that screws onto the base, is too abrupt an angle. The bullets begin to rotate, hit the ramp, and get pushed back in, after going up that first little face of the ramp. I believe that is a modification I could do given time.

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Yo may need to adjust the angle of the feeder. Can you post a video?

[n10sivern]

about to place an order to build 5 bullet feeders. $146.53 at Amazon and $26.95 at eBay for a grand total of $173.48 plus taxes and wiring/plugs/filament. Anything I'm missing?

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[erwos]

I've printed this thing, and it works, but I'm getting a lot of bullets nose down. I THINK this is because I'm not using the right spring for the flipper arm thing. The one I bought was too strong and bound up the motor (JGY370), so I cut it back, but I suspect that it's not really pushing in the way it's supposed to. Can anyone tell me what spring they used, preferably from Amazon?

The bullet feeder is as angled forward as I can get it without it dumping bullets on top of me. :) The turning plate is the double slide. Thanks!

[nhyrum]

about to place an order to build 5 bullet feeders. $146.53 at Amazon and $26.95 at eBay for a grand total of $173.48 plus taxes and wiring/plugs/filament. Anything I'm missing?

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266994I've got the 10 rpm motor, and I feel it's too fast, and at least my speed controller doesn't slow it down well.

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[nhyrum]

I've printed this thing, and it works, but I'm getting a lot of bullets nose down. I THINK this is because I'm not using the right spring for the flipper arm thing. The one I bought was too strong and bound up the motor (JGY370), so I cut it back, but I suspect that it's not really pushing in the way it's supposed to. Can anyone tell me what spring they used, preferably from Amazon?

The bullet feeder is as angled forward as I can get it without it dumping bullets on top of me. :) The turning plate is the double slide. Thanks!You might need to just pull the flipper plate out a little bit. For my 9mm jhp I've found about an eighth of an inch is prefect. Too far back, it flips EVERYTHING, nose up to nose down, and nose down to nose up. To far forward and nothing gets flipped.

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[erwos]

You might need to just pull the flipper plate out a little bit. For my 9mm jhp I've found about an eighth of an inch is prefect. Too far back, it flips EVERYTHING, nose up to nose down, and nose down to nose up. To far forward and nothing gets flipped.
Interesting! I'll give that a try tomorrow. I solved my own problem with the flipper arm and sacrificed a ballpoint pen to get the spring - it now clicks more or less like I'd expect.

That said, I am super impressed with how well this thing functions from a mechanical perspective, and am looking forward to getting it just perfect... when I've gotten a bunch of nose-ups in a row, it's pretty clear just how much this can increase production speed.

[nhyrum]

Yo may need to adjust the angle of the feeder. Can you post a video?I'll work on getting a video. I think I got the heavy round nose 9mm worked out, other than sometimes when they're nose down, they slip out of the plate.

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[n10sivern]

And it begins. Bullet feeder 1 of 5.

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[erwos]

I played with the flipper plate a bit and did a quick round of testing, and it's as you say: does seem to make a difference. Suppose I should have figured that out from the "adjustable" in the title! I will experiment a bit further and see what I can do to get it 100% (or at least 99%). If there are alternative flipper plates that do better with 147gr 9mm RN, I'd be interested.

[HuskJ]

I've printed this thing, and it works, but I'm getting a lot of bullets nose down. I THINK this is because I'm not using the right spring for the flipper arm thing. The one I bought was too strong and bound up the motor (JGY370), so I cut it back, but I suspect that it's not really pushing in the way it's supposed to. Can anyone tell me what spring they used, preferably from Amazon?

The bullet feeder is as angled forward as I can get it without it dumping bullets on top of me. :) The turning plate is the double slide. Thanks!

All I used was a spring from a pen that I had around the house. It worked fine.