Making that Bullet Collator

[shibbykins]

I saw some maker geeks stuff when I was at FRY's today. Im just using the 3dmars stuff currently off amazon.

I figured out the housing question I asked earlier lol not enough coffee at the time of my last post.

[InfringedNSocal]

Yep, I printed the double sided turning plate last night and put in fridge as I went to bed. Was stuck solid. Slid of this morning. BTW, you'd think a pane of glass would be fairly consistent right? wrong. I cut two pieces for my printer out of a very large broken piece we hadn't discarded and they are different enough I have to level bed when I swap. Don't forget to do that when you take off anyway.

And I think I should give you guys a heads up. Don't know who you are buying filament from. But AVOID Maker Geeks like the plague! I was wanting to try them as they are only a couple of hours from me in Springfield, MO and all US made. A very large variety of PLA and PETG. Several different qualities/grades and bunches of color. But ZERO stock I guess. The internet stock is NOT actual. Ordered a couple of rolls on April 1st and still haven't seen the first roll, or tracking number. This is after three different Customer service discussions and guarantees that yes, this is in stock and will ship tomorrow. Buyer beware.....

Oh, and they charged me for order up front......

Unfortunately, they have that reputation around the 3D printer groups ... Sorry man that sux. Just took back 3 rolls of Inland PLA to Microcenter as I tried for 2 days to get good prints - never adhered right to 80% of my bed. Got a new roll of Hatchbox back in - slapped it on and viola ... perfect - 1st go ... anyhow - they gave me a ration of it ... when I took back a 99.5% full spool - as OPEN consumeable. Had to ***** to a manager but they refunded it all. Meh ...

[shibbykins]

wait, did I miss a double sided plate file somewhere?

[InfringedNSocal]

I have to do something different. I cannot in good conscience purchase too much from MBF. a refrigeration spring for 3/8 tubing and 1/2" tubing are what I'm going to try for roughly $12.00 for the pair plus tax. I have several in my tool box if memory is correct but they may have some rust on them so new is in order.

Going to home depot today to get these ... what size is the right ones for .45 [ 3/8 - 1/2 tubing? ] and .223 / 5.56 ... .308 ? Think depot sells em in an assorted pack for $9

[shibbykins]

almost done printing a 223 plate then its off to do a 45acp one.... my ******* printed a rifle one first without a rifle feed die. woops.

[Handloader109]

Going to home depot today to get these ... what size is the right ones for .45 [ 3/8 - 1/2 tubing? ] and .223 / 5.56 ... .308 ? Think depot sells em in an assorted pack for $9

I had an old set of 4. Small one might work for .223, next up works for 9mm and I'm guessing third smallest would be fine for .45

[InfringedNSocal]

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Sliced and ver 2 is 35 minutes from being printed in full

[InfringedNSocal]

I had an old set of 4. Small one might work for .223, next up works for 9mm and I'm guessing third smallest would be fine for .45

Gracias sir ... dug out some projectiles and tested the springs... Got it now. Now the question is - are they springs gunna be LONG enough LOL. Do ya need to stretch em out like a Slinky ?

[shibbykins]

Ive about had it with white PLA. Nothing but issues with it being stringy and those strings turn into blobs. I cant "fire and forget" like I can with black on a print. Print settings haven't changed, still 200 and 60 temps.

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So I started assembly of my unit and I am pretty sure I will need to source some of those brass inserts. My base printed but its very thin where some of the screw holes are to the point I am worried about them even being structurally sound. By thin I mean it resembles a hole area but its missing layers or something. Ill probably just side mount the unit if inserts wont work. 45ACP plate is at 50% currently.

Infringed that dropper setup looks pretty **** cool man. Keep up the good work!

[InfringedNSocal]

Ive about had it with white PLA. Nothing but issues with it being stringy and those strings turn into blobs. I cant "fire and forget" like I can with black on a print. Print settings haven't changed, still 200 and 60 temps.

219045

So I started assembly of my unit and I am pretty sure I will need to source some of those brass inserts. My base printed but its very thin where some of the screw holes are to the point I am worried about them even being structurally sound. By thin I mean it resembles a hole area but its missing layers or something. Ill probably just side mount the unit if inserts wont work. 45ACP plate is at 50% currently.

Infringed that dropper setup looks pretty **** cool man. Keep up the good work!

White is notorious for being a difficult color to get to print. The noted issues are that white requires a special set of pigments - that alters its printing characteristics - you need a specific slicer profile just for it in most materials [ pla / petg / abs etc ] - and testing and calibration for nozz/bed temps and layer heights - as well as extrusion multipliers [ many times ] ...

Thanks for the kind words bro ...

Version 1 - these were all printed very fast and at .25 - to get them roughed out quickly - id prolly end up printing finished prduct with a better print profile and better material - but here's where things are at atm.

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Version 2 - .223 / 5.56 [ 10mm + / - O.D. of Spring Tube 10.56 actually ]

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Using these ....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Tube-Bending-Spring-Set-HDX073/204218597

[InfringedNSocal]

pretty quiet in here - whats crakkin gents ?

[jmorris]

Ammo, my setups running like a Swiss watch now.

[InfringedNSocal]

Ammo, my setups running like a Swiss watch now.

Nice ... jealous! i got the wrong motor from Amazon - so a temp setback ...

[Mark2215]

Mine is running great on my sizer. I am working on a few different sized spring housings and nose down flip plates since I'm having problems with shorter bullets falling into the spring housing sideways and getting jammed.

[Tazza]

I still need to get brave enough to actually pull the trigger on a 3d printer. People talked about 3d printed stuff on facebook, so i'm sure i could do a little side work with it if i was to actually buy one.

[InfringedNSocal]

Mine is running great on my sizer. I am working on a few different sized spring housings and nose down flip plates since I'm having problems with shorter bullets falling into the spring housing sideways and getting jammed.


Care t oshare any ideas on how to prevent that bullet sideways action youre having ...? Whats causing it and whats your setup look like at the spring housings? I was trying to make one that was "quick change" ...

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[InfringedNSocal]

So initially, I thought I bought the wrong ... Uxcell Center [ centric ] 12v motor for my printed "base". STL - bf_v2_base_uxcell_center... But I cant seem to find a Uxcell 12v motor with a hole pattern that matches the one I printed

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Anyone know what motor I can buy to match AmmoMikes base spec's ?

[razorfish]

Finally got started printing yesterday. Trying to put together a nose down only feeder using the MBR motor.

Started with the 9mm plate in PLA.

[Tazza]

Could it be this style?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Uxcell-R-12V-5RPM-31Kg-cm-Permanent-Magnet-DC-Gear-Box-Motor-Replacement/301755020549?hash=item4642003505:g:874AAOSwCcZaQJG d

[InfringedNSocal]

Could it be this style?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Uxcell-R-12V-5RPM-31Kg-cm-Permanent-Magnet-DC-Gear-Box-Motor-Replacement/301755020549?hash=item4642003505:g:874AAOSwCcZaQJG d

Thats pretty much the one I have


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But ...

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Looks like the Thingieverse .zip has been updated as recently as today by AmmoMike - but the stl doesnt appear to be modified ... Im not sure what to get now

[Tazza]

Bugger... Is it possible to carefully hand drill new holes to match your motor? I know you'll need to be careful if you want to countersink the heads, or else you will go all the way through.

No reason why you can't have it clocked around a little to give room for the counter sinking.

[Handloader109]

You CAN go all the way through and need to for the motor. Take it slow, and drill smaller hole first then at size you need. If you printed at 75% or higher it is almost solid and as thick as base is, it will hold.
My motor, a 370 has a relatively short, but threaded shaft. Takes a 3mm screw. I found a 3mm hex riser off an old PC I had stripped, cross drilled and put in roll pin. If I have to, I can put some thread lock, but I think it will hold tight enough. Just waiting on a powersupply and bullet drop die.

Oh, changed to the file was mainly to eliminate the short sided feeder.

[InfringedNSocal]

You CAN go all the way through and need to for the motor. Take it slow, and drill smaller hole first then at size you need. If you printed at 75% or higher it is almost solid and as thick as base is, it will hold.
My motor, a 370 has a relatively short, but threaded shaft. Takes a 3mm screw. I found a 3mm hex riser off an old PC I had stripped, cross drilled and put in roll pin. If I have to, I can put some thread lock, but I think it will hold tight enough. Just waiting on a powersupply and bullet drop die.

Oh, changed to the file was mainly to eliminate the short sided feeder.

My preference would be to either print the right base or get the right motor with the right bolt patter for the base[s] I printed. I guess what Im not really understanding is why the motors for Uxcell 12v in 3 thru 120 rpm - geared centric - dont have a bolt pattern that is even close to what is on this STL. The item I printed has a 22.5 - 23mm spacing. Most all the Uxcell motors I see on amazon are either 17mm or 31mm.

Kinda looking for some confirmations from the creator - AmmoMike ... perhaps I need both - new motor and new base, but if so - why have that Uxcell 12V Centric motor base in the group of stls at all ... Im sure something fits it.

P.S. - anyone used a Arduino Nano + EasyDriver + Nema17 stepper motor + Potentiometer for powering one of these ?

[InfringedNSocal]

Welp - looks like I got my answer ... I get to redo BOTH it seems ... mehhhh ...

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[AmmoMike83]

Welp - looks like I got my answer ... I get to redo BOTH it seems ... mehhhh ...

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The uxcell base fits exactly the dimension of that amazon link. There are hundreds of motors available. Send me the dimensions and motor type and I will create a base for you. It’s easy to find out if it’s fitting your motor. Just load the STL file in a viewer and make some measurements, before stupidly printing all. Or go and create your own bullet feeder. Such comments on thingiverse are pissing me off.

[InfringedNSocal]

The uxcell base fits exactly the dimension of that amazon link. There are hundreds of motors available. Send me the dimensions and motor type and I will create a base for you. It’s easy to find out if it’s fitting your motor. Just load the STL file in a viewer and make some measurements, before stupidly printing all . Or go and create your own bullet feeder. Such comments on thingiverse are pissing me off.

Hey Mike,

Im sorry youre pissed off ... Dont really think I posted something that should be that upsetting - I was expressing my displeasure with my mistake, which its obvious I made errors - as Ive said up above - I ordered the wrong motor and/or printed the wrong bases.

That said - I think youre getting a bit bent outta shape over your misunderstanding, and perhaps could kick it down a notch on the aggression scale. Im not the only user/maker/builder of this that struggles at times with the maze of different stl and rapid changes etc ...

What amazon LINK and BASE are you even referring to ? If there is a Motor that fits that - Id gladly buy that ... but as I said I cant find a motor that fits it or a mounting bracket.

[AmmoMike83]

219667

nope. it's still there. As you can see on the screenshot there is no delete function for me. And I am working on a new base according to your measurements.

[InfringedNSocal]

Thingiverse post edited for clarity.

[InfringedNSocal]

219667

nope. it's still there. As you can see on the screenshot there is no delete function for me. And I am working on a new base according to your measurements.

My post wasnt being found by text search - i removed my post here in this forum referencing that, and as well mod'd my thingie post to hopefully clarify.

Id be rather interested to know what is this amazon link to an amazon Uxcell object - motor or mounting plate - that fits the main center shaft hole ANd the 22mm bolt pattern spacing - Id gladly buy that item to make this work. Additionally before posting Ive searched ebay amazon and general interwebz for 2 days worth of free time trying to locate the device you used to model that base after ...

[InfringedNSocal]

And I am working on a new base according to your measurements.

Thank you

[AmmoMike83]

Thank you

We should both calm down. It was something like this.

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Due to the fact, it's not available anymore on amazon, I removed it.

Your new base plate is online at thingiverse. bf_v2_base_WH120_uxcell_31mm_center.stl
I increased the "shaft" diameter to 12.3mm instead of 12mm because of material shrinking. Please verify the dimensions and always be polite. I am trying to help, where I can.

Have fun.

Mike

[InfringedNSocal]

We should both calm down. It was something like this.

219668

Due to the fact, it's not available anymore on amazon, I removed it.

Your new base plate is online at thingiverse. bf_v2_base_WH120_uxcell_31mm_center.stl
I increased the "shaft" diameter to 12.3mm instead of 12mm because of material shrinking. Please verify the dimensions and always be polite. I am trying to help, where I can.

Have fun.

Mike

Sounds fair ... DEAL.

12.3mm - good call

I will reprint and advise.

Thank you

[AmmoMike83]

Sounds fair ... DEAL.

12.3mm - good call

I will reprint and advise.

Thank you

No! „I will check, reprint and advise.“ :)

My pleasure.

[Tazza]

A stepper motor would be a pretty sweet setup actually. No back lash that geared motors have, i just don't know what the torque would be like, you can alter the speed as required. I'd like to see how one goes if you went that route. Easily adjusted with a pot on one of the analogue inputs on the arduino.

[InfringedNSocal]

A stepper motor would be a pretty sweet setup actually. No back lash that geared motors have, i just don't know what the torque would be like, you can alter the speed as required. I'd like to see how one goes if you went that route. Easily adjusted with a pot on one of the analogue inputs on the arduino.

Im kinda thinking a stepper with like a Watterott TMC2130 driver that has some stallguard on it it might be best - but how to get that out of the driver with a simple tutorial Nano sketch - I have NO clue.

Guys have pinged me and advised theyve had these high torque geared motors drive the cross shaft pins thru the Collator plate center wals if a bullet gets jammed ... having a stepper that - skips steps may be mo' bettah ?

[Tazza]

With a stepper, i wonder if you could monitor the current draw instead of stallguard that i assume would jsut shut down?. If there is a power spike, you know it has stalled, and could possible get it to reverse a little then turn again to hopefully clear and jambs?

Monitoring current draw would be pretty simple too, measure voltage across a current shunt using yet another analogue input on the arduino.

[MaryB]

Can do a reverse with a DC motor too. As mentioned monitor current and of it hits stall flip polarity to the motor with a relay. Way the feeder for my pellet stove works.

[jmorris]

I have been using this general design for more than a decade and have never had one that reversed. The only time I have ever had one jam is if it fills the tube and keeps running until it binds a bullet between the wheel and drop hole.

[Tazza]

That is where i have been having issues with binding up while dropping into the tube. I need to spend more time to work out angles to allow the projectile to drop easier without jamming up the wheel.

[jmorris]

One thing to think about is how fast you are running it. If you run the collator as slow as you can, and keep up with your press, the better they run and less problems you have.

A PWM speed control would be best (to retain torque) but I have just run the Dayton 2L007 motors (way more torque than needed) on lower voltage. Taking one of mine from 12v all the way down to 3v slowed it down where it hasn’t miss collated a bullet in over seven years now and is still fast enough to keep the tube full on the machine it’s mounted on that loads 1000 rounds in 52 minutes.

[Tazza]

That is exactly my plan. I have a small PWM controller off ebay that i use to slow it down, i just need to tweak the flipper plate and angle of the base to get it reliably flipping. Too steep of an angle and projectiles will not flip, too shallow and correct direction ones will fall and flip. One of those things that need fiddling with to get right.

The motors i have are off ebay, inline 12v 7 rpm i think. Not super powerful, but it takes a lot to stall the plate. If needed, i can upgrade the motor easily enough.

[jmorris]

One thing I have done in the past for collators that would have broad uses is to use split set collars to mount them on a round tube. They are infinitely adjustable at that point.

[Tazza]

I have used a piece of channel for the upright and two pieces of aluminium angle mounted to the base of the collator to bolt the upright to. This will allow me to adjust angle back and forth and lock in place with bolts, it will not allow me to rotate it left and right though. Split collars do look like it would make it easy too, just not something i have easy access to.

I'll try and get a picture of what i'm trying to work with on my sizer when i get home tonight. I

[Tazza]

This is my dodgy setup so far. I have made it so i can put in different flipping plates. The hope is to get nose down working for my sizer.

Hopefully these files will work.

Yes, that is a cable tie holding the motor in place. This will be replaced with a hose clamp to hold it tight, currently it's just proof of concept.

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[InfringedNSocal]

This is my dodgy setup so far. I have made it so i can put in different flipping plates. The hope is to get nose down working for my sizer.

Hopefully these files will work.

Yes, that is a cable tie holding the motor in place. This will be replaced with a hose clamp to hold it tight, currently it's just proof of concept.

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McGuyver ... Down Undaaaahhhh ...

[Lakehouse2012]

Looks like I'm going down this rabbit hole with you guys now.... I'll read more tomorrow night, only on page 4 tonight and it's past my bedtime...

[Tazza]

McGuyver ... Down Undaaaahhhh ...

hehe, i need to find my swiss army knife!

[razorfish]

It was a long journey but I finally finished my collator. I wanted a nose down only feeder for my Star sizer... it works flawlessly!

I ended up designing and printing my own transport pieces, but other than that it’s 100% AmmoMike’s design. Thanks for all the help!

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/3ea4ec700ced003d4a488a566cb098f7.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/525ef3e5996ee5e8ded12302998f1460.jpg

[audleon]

P.S. - anyone used a Arduino Nano + EasyDriver + Nema17 stepper motor + Potentiometer for powering one of these ?[/QUOTE]

I don't think a Nema17 would cut it. I designed a filament measuring/spooling device that used a Nema motor to wind filament and measure it for me. I used the highest torque Nema 17 (I believe 92oz.in or something like that) that I could source and I still ended up having to print nylon gears to get enough torque. Without the gearing, it would just skip every now and then and it did NOT have very much resistance when it skipped.

[AmmoMike83]

It was a long journey but I finally finished my collator. I wanted a nose down only feeder for my Star sizer... it works flawlessly!

I ended up designing and printing my own transport pieces, but other than that it’s 100% AmmoMike’s design. Thanks for all the help!

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/3ea4ec700ced003d4a488a566cb098f7.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/525ef3e5996ee5e8ded12302998f1460.jpg

awesome job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Please post these pictures to thingiverse "I made one". Thank you!

[razorfish]

awesome job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Please post these pictures to thingiverse "I made one". Thank you!

Will do. I’ll whip up a video of it working and put it on my “I made one” post too.

Thanks again for your design.

[Mark2215]

Has anyone had any success dropping nose down 95gr .380 round nose bullets. The bullet is so short it falls over unless the collator is tipped almost vertical but this stops the bullets from sliding down through the drop hole.

[razorfish]

Here’s a video of my 3d printed nose down collator.
https://youtu.be/pcq-4FwjZZU

[Tazza]

Great video, thanks for sharing

[AmmoMike83]

Here’s a video of my 3d printed nose down collator.
https://youtu.be/pcq-4FwjZZU

I linked that video in my thingiverse project. Very very nice! Thanks!

[Mark2215]

Here’s a video of my 3d printed nose down collator.
https://youtu.be/pcq-4FwjZZU

Looking good. Now all you need is one of these!
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[razorfish]

Looking good. Now all you need is one of these!


True, but there are a couple more machines I’d like to automate first. I’ll circle back around to Star eventually but for now the collator and bullet feed option are way beyond where I was a week ago (feeding it one bullet at a time).

[Tazza]

I have an automated sizer that i built, i hand feed the tube....... Making the change to automated is a BIG step forward. Now, i just need to find time to tinker with mine.

[dwwright]

Thank you to AmmoMike83 and other contributors that have made this available, new build going on here. I've got two AM8 printers going one with the main body and another with the collator. My older printer has some bent smooth rods on the Y axis, so it makes the autolevel not work quite perfect. Due to that I had some slight lifting on the back side of the main body. Could also be that I have an ac window unit running just above the printer, so may have gotten too cool after I started the job last night. It's still got about 30 mm to go, but seems to have leveled out by the time it got to the interior of the main body.
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I kicked off the collator wheel tonight.
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[dwwright]

Both finished up overnight, I went with a .223 bullet collator since that is what my current casing collator is setup for.
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The back of the main body was only peeled from the bed about 1/2" on the edge of but seems to be fine overall and didn't affect the inside of the body.
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[dwwright]

So I'm planning to use the JGY370 motor, but after installing it to the main body it's obvious that the shaft is way shorter and doesn't have the "T" needed to spin the collator plate. How have others with this motor gotten it to work? I saw a post on someone welding some tabs on to the motor shaft, but would like to avoid that if possible.

I was looking to maybe get a shaft coupler like these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shaft-Coupler-Connector-Brass-Motor-Shaft-Coupling-Transmission-RC-Boat-Model/401366074041

Then maybe drill through for a short piece of brass on one end to create the "T". It may require enlarging the diameter of hole in the collator and main body, but no big deal and looks like the scad file can be updated to do that on the collator.

[Handloader109]

Well, I feel bad. I should have made a comment about this motor when I got it the other day. Yep, just barely above the floor. I am trying to make a t myself. Had a 3mm threaded standoff that I cross drilled and installed a pin. Added loctite to hold it as the motor turns clockwise and will unthread when jam happens. No go, it takes just a bit to break it loose. And I've found my pin is too short and let's collator plate move. Can fix that, but I think I'll have to hit with wire welder, might could booger threads enough, but not confident there.

My other issue is bullets hanging and turning sideways. I'm using mrb's spring but is hanging in printed cone. RN, and three other 9mms I'm playing with. Doesn't matter. Any suggestions guys?

Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

[Tazza]

Can you try red loctite? that stuff when dry, is pretty tough! I'd think it would not let go with the torque of your motor.

I'd avoid hitting it with a welder if at all possible, i don't know if there is any plastic inside the gearbox that could possibly be melted.

[jmorris]

The 2L00(x) Dayton motors I have used, I just drill and install a roll pin, to make the “T”.

[dwwright]

Well, I feel bad. I should have made a comment about this motor when I got it the other day. Yep, just barely above the floor. I am trying to make a t myself. Had a 3mm threaded standoff that I cross drilled and installed a pin. Added loctite to hold it as the motor turns clockwise and will unthread when jam happens. No go, it takes just a bit to break it loose. And I've found my pin is too short and let's collator plate move. Can fix that, but I think I'll have to hit with wire welder, might could booger threads enough, but not confident there.

My other issue is bullets hanging and turning sideways. I'm using mrb's spring but is hanging in printed cone. RN, and three other 9mms I'm playing with. Doesn't matter. Any suggestions guys?

Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

No worries, I ordered a couple of the couplers below to try, looks like the threaded holes go through already upon closer inspection, so just need to remove the head of an m3 screw that is long enough and thread lock it in place. I may need to re-print the collator plate with a larger hole and open up the one in the floor as well, but that is a simple fix.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shaft-Coupler-Connector-Brass-Motor-Shaft-Coupling-Transmission-RC-Boat-Model/401366074041

[r4ndy]

Hi,

Newbie to 3d printing here. I have successfully printed a lee pro tube holder and a couple other items under 90 min print jobs. I went to print the bullet drop tube and all was going well until about 3 hours in when I found the tube had lifted off the bed and the printer was just making a blob and moving around with the print attached to it. I was using .1 and 80% infill with 200 / 60 for temp on an Anet A8 with 3m blue tape and glue stick. Bed feels slick where I was printing, so I am guessing it is the bed adhsesion. I am hoping someone can tell me if the likely issue is bed adhesion or if I should look at other things. I just got some aquanet today, so I was going to use that for the next print with blue tape, but if there is something else I should adjust I would like to do so before wasting another 3 hrs :).

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Thanks for your assistance.

[Mark2215]

I use aquanet on glass and have to pry things off, no problem with adhesion.

[InfringedNSocal]

I print on PEI sheet and not blue tape.

Id suggest getting a piece of glass from home depot and having it cut to your beds size - its like $5 all done. Or something like a Buildtak Flexible steel sheet - with PEI or Buildtak on it. You also prolly needed a bit more squish or lower Z height ... might also try ...


1. slow down 1st layer to 15 mm/s
2. up temps 5C on first layer
3. no fan for layers 1 and 2
4. Up bed temp 5C [ i print PLA at 65 [ esun pla + [ great stuff btw ] ]]]
5. run some test prints and really get that 1st layer adhesion down that tall part is gunna be a B
.
.
.
6. Add a brim ?

[r4ndy]

Thanks for the feedback!

[Handloader109]

For the drop tube, print with a brim. Comes off easy, but helps hold it down.

Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

[r4ndy]

I had a brim, but pulled it off before the photo, should have mentioned that.

[dwwright]

I got mine running tonight, but obviously I need to figure out the right ramp plate to print for .223. I was able to hold one of the two I printed in place for a bit and get some successful flips on the nose down bullets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=temzEl_mReQ

I also got the switch tubes printed for 7mm & 10mm springs.
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I still need to print a mount and a controller box too.

Oh, almost forgot, the brass coupler mentioned above worked great for doing the "T" on the JGY370 motor. Just had to drill out the collator plate and the base of the main body to fit it in there.
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[shibbykins]

I forget which ramp I used but I did find I had to mess with it quite a bit to get it to reliably tip 223 pills. I need to print off a new body but my printer is on the **** fritz with its Y axis wanting to not retract from being out front and now the frame is bending. Time to go to a metal frame I think.

[Lakehouse2012]

Hi Guys, I want to play in the sandbox with you all.... My machine is built and I'm running my first larger test-print as we speak. I'm diving into the deep end cause the print has been going 2 hours now and looking good. So I'm going to start with the coolater.

Question is: I'm in Cura right now getting ready to slice, what is the best fill and layer height for this larger part? I figure its gonna take some abuse sorting lead boolits, 100% fill, what about layer height?

[AmmoMike83]

Hi Guys, I want to play in the sandbox with you all.... My machine is built and I'm running my first larger test-print as we speak. I'm diving into the deep end cause the print has been going 2 hours now and looking good. So I'm going to start with the coolater.

Question is: I'm in Cura right now getting ready to slice, what is the best fill and layer height for this larger part? I figure its gonna take some abuse sorting lead boolits, 100% fill, what about layer height?

Hi,

Go with 0.15 layer height, 50% infill and wall (line) count 6

Mike

[Lakehouse2012]

Hi,

Go with 0.15 layer height, 50% infill and wall (line) count 6

MikeThanks Mike, and especially for all the files and work you have done to help us all, I've been reading non-stop for 2 weeks.... ask my wife... [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]

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[Lakehouse2012]

Hi,

Go with 0.15 layer height, 50% infill and wall (line) count 6

Mike

How fast could I set print speed, default is at 60 mm/s

[AmmoMike83]

How fast could I set print speed, default is at 60 mm/s

Depends on your printer. Leave it at default.

[jmorris]

These are the settings I used to get a successful print.


layer height .15
Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
Infill 80%
Printing temp 200
Plate temp 70
Diameter 1.75
Flow 100
Speed print 50
Travel 120
Cooling enabled
No support
Adhesion brim, 12mm

Using cura
Shaxon PLA
Glass bed
Aqua net extra super hold unscented
.0035” gap

I tried others that didn’t work and I am sure there are others that will but these did for sure.

[Lakehouse2012]

Thanks JMorris for the settings!
Another question - l tried starting a new print late last night. I used Cura to slice the STL. I moved the models to the place I wanted them to build in the Cura software. But when i started printing, it shifted the part way over to the left and rearward so the edge of part was off table.

Is this a settings issue in Cura or on the A8 display that I'm missing?

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[razorfish]

You may need to setup the center of your print bed. The best solution is to upgrade to Marlin Firmware and then center your printer bed in the Firmware configuration files. But, upgrading the newer Anet A8 1.5 boards can be difficult.

I don’t know of any center/offset settings in the Anet Firmware but you can definitely add center/offset commands in your slicing software (Cura). In Cura the settings are in the same area you set your printer type. Just print a centering target (lots of these on Thingiverse) and measure how far off the center of the bed your currently printing.

[jmorris]

If the part moved on the table, that’s not a program(ing) problem but a bed issue.

If it started out in the wrong place and you had it in the right place before slicing, I imagine you have a configuration problem and Cura thinks you have a larger bed than you do.

I would double check the configuration and likely print a tiny simple part in the center and see where it actually prints. If nothing else I could tell where Cura thinks the center of my bed is.

[Lakehouse2012]

Here is an update for anyone following my earlier issue.

I did small part position tests, and it appears to be related to the position in Cura. I have the bed X&Y size 220mm. But for some reason I have to put the part at -28,-28 in Cura, in order to get it to print on the center of my actual bed...

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[AmmoMike83]

Here is an update for anyone following my earlier issue.

I did small part position tests, and it appears to be related to the position in Cura. I have the bed X&Y size 220mm. But for some reason I have to put the part at -28,-28 in Cura, in order to get it to print on the center of my actual bed...

220797

Change your machine settings to your print bed size.
220803

Or use finished profiles like this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2442909

[Lakehouse2012]

Change your machine settings to your print bed size.
220803

Or use finished profiles like this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2442909I'm not following you Mike. The actual bed measures 220×220, why would I use 300x300?

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[AmmoMike83]

I'm not following you Mike. The actual bed measures 220×220, why would I use 300x300?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

That are the default values for the CR-10S. If you use them with 300x300 mm bed, it will move you object in the upper left corner during print. Change that to 220x220 and use that cura profile.

clear now? :)

[AmmoMike83]

I'm not following you Mike. The actual bed measures 220×220, why would I use 300x300?

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https://4noobs.de/viewtopic.php?t=101

[Lakehouse2012]

https://4noobs.de/viewtopic.php?t=101

It appears I have a different issue... When I setup the machine All Home wasn't working. Diagnosing, it appeared that switching the X & Y limit switches on the MB, got me to printing. However, now I'm noticing that Cura is rotating 90 degrees from where I thought I was setting parts on center. I have the tub at 54% right now, so can't verify until tomorrow night, but appears that I have more wires crossed than just the switches, maybe motors need to move as well?.....

[razorfish]

It appears I have a different issue... When I setup the machine All Home wasn't working. Diagnosing, it appeared that switching the X & Y limit switches on the MB, got me to printing. However, now I'm noticing that Cura is rotating 90 degrees from where I thought I was setting parts on center. I have the tub at 54% right now, so can't verify until tomorrow night, but appears that I have more wires crossed than just the switches, maybe motors need to move as well?.....

Interesting that switching the x and y limit switches helped initially as they’re identical limit switches. Sounds like you may very well have your X and Y stepper motors reversed though. It’s easy enough to swap those connectors on the motherboard once your print finishes.

[Lakehouse2012]

You NAILED is razorfish! I returned limit switchs to factory position, but the stepper motors were wrong from the factory. I traced the wires back to each motor and verified the label on the board, they were wrong. I ran a small print and now it's right on center of the bed, my problem of part positioning on the board goes away!!!

Thanks!


Interesting that switching the x and y limit switches helped initially as they’re identical limit switches. Sounds like you may very well have your X and Y stepper motors reversed though. It’s easy enough to swap those connectors on the motherboard once your print finishes.

[dwwright]

I'm curious about the spring connectors to the main body, there are large and small ones. I assume the sizes listed are for the diameter of the bullet. Also noted on the drop tubes. Question is, does the inner size matter as much on the spring connector at the top or is there more of a chance of the bullet flipping before it drops into the spring?

[AmmoMike83]

I'm curious about the spring connectors to the main body, there are large and small ones. I assume the sizes listed are for the diameter of the bullet. Also noted on the drop tubes. Question is, does the inner size matter as much on the spring connector at the top or is there more of a chance of the bullet flipping before it drops into the spring?

large = large spring (pistol calibers)
small = small spring (rifle calibers)
It's just the cone that changes, not the spring connectors. They are always identical. Same with the drop tubes. It's just the INNER tube, that changes.

[dwwright]

Ok, thanks. I'm still chugging along on this. I did end up ordering the springs for MBF, much more flexible than the spring benders and I'll need the extra length that they can provide too. Tonight I was printing up an enclosure for the PWM and light/relay. Hopefully I can get it all running this weekend.

[shep]

Question about base turning plates do you have to use different ones for different bullets and do you have to adjust it in and out until it is consistently turning the bullets or just push it all the way flush? Also I think I have come up with a solid mounting idea for Dillon 650 users and I will share with pics once POC is working.

[jmorris]

Yes, you need the “wheel” to fit the biker you are collating because it does need to consistently pace the tip of the bullets in the same spot in the arc and yes you need to adjust the part that drags the tip of the bullet outward, if it’s nose down (and you are going for base down), so it catches the tip of the bullet to drag it outward but will let a base down bullet pass by.

[shep]

Do you recommend small spring or large spring for 9mm ammo? Also I assume match in ID with the bullet diameter and then choose appropriate one with the spring you use. Meaning use bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id9mm_small_spring for 9mm with the small spring.

[AmmoMike83]

Do you recommend small spring or large spring for 9mm ammo? Also I assume match in ID with the bullet diameter and then choose appropriate one with the spring you use. Meaning use bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id9mm_small_spring for 9mm with the small spring.

No. Small spring is for rifle bullets. Large for pistol bullets. And 9mm =.355 = 9,017mm -> id10mm drop tube with BIG spring.

[Mark2215]

unless you're doing very small 9mm or 380 bullets use the large spring for pistol. I have to use the small spring for anything under 100 grains or the bullets are able to flip end over end in the large spring. Thankfully I only use one that small, a 95gr bullet and it is by far the hardest to get to flip reliably and drop trouble free.

[r4ndy]

What are people using to pin the shaft of the motor for the uxcell? I have gone through a bunch of bits and can’t get a good straight hole through the shaft with my drill press. I have tried titanium and cobalt bits and best I got was a hole offcenter as the bit kept wandering.

I also bought an aluminum rod and couldn’t get the bits to drill that straight either.

Any help would be appreciated, I am getting really frustrated with this last piece.

The plate I have has a 10mm diameter and all the brass couplers I am finding on Amazon and EBay are 11.5. I am thinking about drilling out to the shell plate rather than fight with this anymore.

[Tazza]

To not wonder around, you may want to give a tungsten end mill. They have no point like a regular drill bit, but they will cut on the tip, just not as quickly as a drill bit does.

[jmorris]

A center drill is the thing to use to start a hole, without a jig.


Now if you have a cube of metal, a drill press and a vise it’s really easy. You set the vise so the part is roughly in the center and drill either the diameter for the pin or the shaft diameter. Then flip the cube 90 degrees and drill the other. Now you stick the motor shaft in the hole it fits in and run the pin drill through the other hole and it will be right in the center.

[dwwright]

What are people using to pin the shaft of the motor for the uxcell? I have gone through a bunch of bits and can’t get a good straight hole through the shaft with my drill press. I have tried titanium and cobalt bits and best I got was a hole offcenter as the bit kept wandering.

I also bought an aluminum rod and couldn’t get the bits to drill that straight either.

Any help would be appreciated, I am getting really frustrated with this last piece.

The plate I have has a 10mm diameter and all the brass couplers I am finding on Amazon and EBay are 11.5. I am thinking about drilling out to the shell plate rather than fight with this anymore.

I'll have to measure mine tomorrow if I get up to the shop, but the walls are about 2mm on these, so comes out to about 10mm... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shaft-Coupler-Connector-Brass-Motor-Shaft-Coupling-Transmission-RC-Boat-Model/401366074041

[r4ndy]

Thanks for the drilling tips - I am going to see what dww says and hopefully get the coupler and try to avoid more drilling on the shaft.

[dwwright]

Thanks for the drilling tips - I am going to see what dww says and hopefully get the coupler and try to avoid more drilling on the shaft.

They actually measure 9mm in diameter and fit a 6mm shaft. The coupler is about 20mm long. You'll need to order some m3 set screws for the shaft side (some short 1.5mm - 2mm ones), the other you can probably cut off the head of a 25mm screw and thread it straight through and lock it with loctite in place. There are two holes opposite of one another, so should not require any drilling, though I put a piece of brass through mine and soldered it, in hind sight I would have just used a headless screw.

Looks like that supplier still has a 2mm x 6mm coupler, which should work still, but shows they are out of the 6mm x 6mm, you really only care about one end fitting the motor shaft anyway.

[r4ndy]

Thanks dww, going to order now!

[InfringedNSocal]

Found a nice PLA - pretty close to Dillon Blue ... prints well at upper speeds 80 - 100ms [ 215*C ] ...

Ziro Fluo-Blue PLA 1.75mm 1 kg - approx $20 - Amazon

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[Dark Horse]

Anyone else having an issue with the Double Alpha or Competitive edge dynamics credit card page showing as insecure when trying to make a purchase of the MRB motor?

[Lakehouse2012]

I used paypal and didnt have any issues, they ship out of PA and arrived very quickly
Anyone else having an issue with the Double Alpha or Competitive edge dynamics credit card page showing as insecure when trying to make a purchase of the MRB motor?

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[Dark Horse]

I'll probably have to go with paypal then. Thank you.

[jmorris]

What bullets are you using for 308 that work with that plate?

It’s tall enough for most .223 bullets but way too short for longer 308 bullets.

[InfringedNSocal]

Anyone else printed the Drop Tubes in Horiz Orientation ? I gave it a whirl to see how it would turn out ... may actually work. All the extra needed supports for the the vertical orientation and Brim due to the design made me wanna try this way ... 4.5 hrs vertically at .25 layer height / 80 mm/s .... This way - much stronger part and print time is 1/2 per per part same print settings ...


Sure there will be pitfalls to this approach ... would appreciate others thoughts. Thanks

Will post follow up pics when don 45 more minutes - these were about 25 mins in ...

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[Lakehouse2012]

I've been wanting to try it horizontally but haven't had the chance yet. And I think cleanup would be easy on the ID, just run a drill bit through to clean it up.
Anyone else printed the Drop Tubes in Horiz Orientation ? I gave it a whirl to see how it would turn out ... may actually work. All the extra needed supports for the the vertical orientation and Brim due to the design made me wanna try this way ... 4.5 hrs vertically at .25 layer height / 80 mm/s .... This way - much stronger part and print time is 1/2 per per part same print settings ...


Sure there will be pitfalls to this approach ... would appreciate others thoughts. Thanks

Will post follow up pics when don 45 more minutes - these were about 25 mins in ...

222165

222166

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[InfringedNSocal]

The ID is plenty fine and is an easy clean up if even needed ... the 6.5 ID part visually seems a little small for .223 bullets but I will check. The O.D. printed this way is NOT pretty. Im not sure how these will interface with a Die - if at all or will require sanding and grinding to function. Havent gotten that far yet.

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[InfringedNSocal]

On another note - I started making a Spreadsheet Matrix of this projects parts to print and to BUY with some links ... Per Caliber. its far from complete. Theres way more data needed and I need some input from folks more in the know - but its a start and would prolly be kinda handy for new folks - and those adding new calibers to their builds. Hoping to help folks get their heads around whats needed vs. the massive folder full of files.

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Full Size (https://www.screencast.com/t/fCkYwRQtkyi)

[InfringedNSocal]

Can anyone help me match up the Drop tube sizes to the right spring housing mounts ?

Also the turning plates ? What calibers are for what turning plates

bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_big_cal_double_slide = ???

... what calibers ? All Pistol sizes ?

bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide = all rifle?

bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_solid = whats this for ?

[AmmoMike83]

Can anyone help me match up the Drop tube sizes to the right spring housing mounts ?

Also the turning plates ? What calibers are for what turning plates

bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_big_cal_double_slide = ???

... what calibers ? All Pistol sizes ?

bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide = all rifle?

bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_solid = whats this for ?

depends on the caliber an bullet SHAPE. Can't tell you. You have to try.

bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_solid --> self milling or filing. it's a solid block, where you can create your own ATP

[InfringedNSocal]

depends on the caliber an bullet SHAPE. Can't tell you. You have to try.

bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_solid --> self milling or filing. it's a solid block, where you can create your own ATP

Ok thank you ...

I will also attempt to add a Matrix sheet as a tab to the spreadsheet for printing parameters / settings [ general ] for the parts.

Recommendations / Successful Settings:

Material
Speed
Layer Height
Infill %
Minimum Perimeters required
Supports - Yes / No
Brim
Print Bed Orientation [ image link perhaps ]

... other ideas or issues folks have questions with ... ???

[Spaceball]

Has anyone tried this feed with the Lee 38-105gn SWC?
I tried to make a bullet feeder about a year ago and struggled to get it to work with the SWC as they jam when they are flipped from point down to up.

[InfringedNSocal]

How are you guys printing these - Ive sliced them a few different ways - defo needs to be vertical - as my horiz orientation print was far too ugly for use ... unless you gents have some secret sauce.

Anyone care to share their settings etc for these ... Im just printing by braille and testing different options. Had decent success in this orientation and these general settings

PLA - ZiRO PLA Light Blue 215*C 1st layer - 210*C all the rest
.20 Layer height
40 mm/s
4 Perims
100% infill
1.65 mm retraction
65 mm/s retraction speed
10 mm/s de-retraction
Supports: Yes
Brim: Printed with and without just fine - maybe I got lucky without - took it slow at 40 mm/s

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[Handloader109]

I run the led version vertically, no brim, no supports, at .2 and 25% fill. No reason for more. .8mm wall which is 3 layers for wall. Got to have layer fan.

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[InfringedNSocal]

It was a long journey but I finally finished my collator. I wanted a nose down only feeder for my Star sizer... it works flawlessly!

I ended up designing and printing my own transport pieces, but other than that it’s 100% AmmoMike’s design. Thanks for all the help!

220108

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/3ea4ec700ced003d4a488a566cb098f7.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/525ef3e5996ee5e8ded12302998f1460.jpg

Brilliant work sir ... jsut noticed in your vids and comments - going back thru - that you crafted your own drop tube mount - this part :

222702

Could you please expand upon what you made there - you mention it has threads? Would you be willing to share .stl or dimension or direction on some of hte design goals - why u made it vs whats currently in the Open project file options ? Im looking for a method to quick change a tube mount for rifle and pistol calibers ... for loading - nose up vs. sizing.

[razorfish]

Brilliant work sir ... jsut noticed in your vids and comments - going back thru - that you crafted your own drop tube mount - this part :

222702

Could you please expand upon what you made there - you mention it has threads? Would you be willing to share .stl or dimension or direction on some of hte design goals - why u made it vs whats currently in the Open project file options ? Im looking for a method to quick change a tube mount for rifle and pistol calibers ... for loading - nose up vs. sizing.

Basically when it came time for the transport pieces I couldn’t figure out what all the different STL files were so I just designed my own. (Note that I’ve used CAD for decades)

I bought an Extension Spring for the MBR. This came with not only the spring but also a coupler for joining to another spring. What your seeing there is a 3d printed piece that the coupler simply slides into. It fits tightly but is also secured by a 6mm set screw (5.2mm hole tapped at 6mm).

In this case I used OpenSCAD to design these parts. It’s very simple software if you know basic programming (and a bit of math). I’d be glad to share the OpenSCAD files but realize I only spent a few hours on my coding to whip out these parts. Again in my situation it was just faster for me to design from scratch rather than trying to analyze a bunch of STL files.

[InfringedNSocal]

Basically when it came time for the transport pieces I couldn’t figure out what all the different STL files were so I just designed my own. (Note that I’ve used CAD for decades)

I bought an Extension Spring for the MBR. This came with not only the spring but also a coupler for joining to another spring. What your seeing there is a 3d printed piece that the coupler simply slides into. It fits tightly but is also secured by a 6mm set screw (5.2mm hole tapped at 6mm).

In this case I used OpenSCAD to design these parts. It’s very simple software if you know basic programming (and a bit of math). I’d be glad to share the OpenSCAD files but realize I only spent a few hours on my coding to whip out these parts. Again in my situation it was just faster for me to design from scratch rather than trying to analyze a bunch of STL files.

Totally get it - I too was unsure of what and how to use all the files - hence why Im trying to create a spreadsheet that mates all the different printed parts together - see my prior post ... and a separate sheet that has all the printed parts printer settings etc. Example; Buy MR BF motor - use this base .stl ... Buy Amazon LED light sensor / switch endstop - Use this .stl file for this caliber etc.

Im not good at openSCAD by any stretch - Ive used it thrice ... but I can work my way thru Fusion360, import .step and other files and do just fine.

I liked how your part mated to both the spring - and the base and had the set screw - which is a quick "enuff" release for what Im trying to do. i have the other spring types from Home Depot for the wire bending. I had an initial goal to not have to send Mr. BF a single $$$ - but thats folly. Sure looks like your setup for larger calibers would be much easier than fussing with the current misc diameter cone parts and the "clips" from Mr. BF to hold it all together. [ To Be Fair I havent had a chance to try them - they could be the cats **** for all I know ]

If youd be willing to share your openScad files - at very least I could get an stl out and print and reverse engineer into fusion and make my own. And of course will share my stl's etc with whomever needs it . PM me when u can ..

Thank you

[Harry Tobin]

Well I ready to jump on-board on this, not long ago I got a Creality CR-10s and did some things on it. I did make an AR skeletonized grip for my buddy, had to do some file work to make it fit but other than that it’s real strong so we’ll see how it holds up. Now told my other buddy I told him I'd print him a bullet feeder for his Star. Got CURA 3.4.1 and saw everyones settings but we have been getting bad weather here lately storms just about every day and don’t need a power glitch to mess the whole thing up. Ordered the MBF motor and power supply and feeder springs and a micro switch all from Double Alpha. The cool thing is they are in PA. now only 2 hours north of me, looks like some of you had real good results from this print. Soon as the storms move out I’m ready to roll, think it’s a 39 hour print on my setting. I’ll give updates when I start this but for now here’s that AR grip I did


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PR5uZ962Hg

[dakarx]

Just started melting a bunch of plastic here as well... this will keep my little printer busy while building my big one.

[SwampShooter]

All I have to say is you people suck...a lot! JK! I made it to page nine and and i just couldn't stand it. Now my brand new A8 is currently printing it's very first test item. I still have some issues to resolve like that the left z motor/lead screw seem to bind and the whole axis gets all cattywampus because of it. Lets see if it makes it through this test. It's laying down hot plastic, that's enough for today. I'll figure out what the problem is in the next few days. Been wanting to learn how to do this for years, this was the nudge I needed. Thanks, sort of. LOL

[Harry Tobin]

Now your in for a ride! I did up grade on the 3D printer and got the CR-10s, and plan on having many hours of printing! Ammo Mike did us good on this, but I was going for the nose down version. Had to do some creative designing for it, built this for my buddy and he sent me some 170 SWC 45's and what a bear they were to get to drop!!!! had to learn CAD to make the parts I was looking for. Good luck with your project and here’s what I ended up with.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qs3SDnQQ_R8

[Tazza]

Nice job!

I really need to get my collator sorted out, it gets tiresome loading my sizer manually :(

[Cue]

Basically when it came time for the transport pieces I couldn’t figure out what all the different STL files were so I just designed my own. (Note that I’ve used CAD for decades)

I bought an Extension Spring for the MBR. This came with not only the spring but also a coupler for joining to another spring. What your seeing there is a 3d printed piece that the coupler simply slides into. It fits tightly but is also secured by a 6mm set screw (5.2mm hole tapped at 6mm).

In this case I used OpenSCAD to design these parts. It’s very simple software if you know basic programming (and a bit of math). I’d be glad to share the OpenSCAD files but realize I only spent a few hours on my coding to whip out these parts. Again in my situation it was just faster for me to design from scratch rather than trying to analyze a bunch of STL files.



I would also be interested in this drop tube mount file so I can print one out, I cant get the one on Thingiverse to work very well.

[Rage 01]

Well the bug has bitten me. Started to print today. Got a few things done. Got some of the other stuff in the other day. Tomorrow I will start on the big piece. Said it should take about 20 hours to print.
I hope I am printing the right pieces. There is so many and hard to make heads or tails from. I guess Ill figure it out when I go to put it together.

[Tazza]

Be sure to show the finished product, they look great from what i have seen that others have done.

[Rage 01]

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About 5 more hours to go or so on the main part. Cura really does not give the time correct.
I have a few more parts to buy. I haven't decided if I want the optical switch or the micro switch yet. And I still have to get a .223 dropper die. But it is all coming together.

Now I just have to figure out how to mount it on the Dillon 650 along with a electronics box to hold it all. I am sure there is one in that pile of files some where.

[Advil]

Working on getting my own collator working now. I got 2 of the JGY 3RPM (highest torque) motors and both perform about the same they work well but only with 50-100 125gr 38sp bullets at a time in the collator. That's actually not as bad as it sounds since most of the holes are filled with bullets all the time it feeds very fast compared to the Hornady. I can put 200-250 in the Hornady with its beefy motor but it is so inefficient at getting bullets into the drop tube it will go empty at some point during 200 rounds of loading and have to wait for it to catch up at the end and it has to be left on and turning the whole time you are loading. (our TC bullets are very very tricky to get working on their collator plate design. The exact settings where it's perfectly reliable is also very slow to fill the tube). The AmmoMike even with the anemic JGY motor will easily feed the drop tube far faster than you can pull the handle on any press. But if you want 200+ in the hopper at once it's not happening with the JGY motor.

So I decided to do some looking into the ZGMP38 motors so I can use one on my next base print.

The ET-ZGMP38 motor design is not proprietary it is one of Eton's standard product lines it's just that if you research it long enough you'll notice it isn't a form factor made by very many motor companies. Really only Eton in China and Dayton provide them. Another company called Paragon also sells them but I think they are just another branch of Eton itself.

This week I sent some emails back and forth with sales at Eton motors in China about the ET-ZGMP38 series just to see what the options might be for small quantities. Minimum order quantity is 1000 pieces. Even a group buy isn't gonna do it. :) Pricing is great at that quantity, but obviously it should be as the investment is very large.

[r4ndy]

Hi - I am interested in standalone mounting ideas. I currently have my feeder hooked to a 3/4” square tube which I am clamping to the bench. Looking for ideas for easy install/removal from the bench. I am using this with a Lee Pro 1000, so not looking to hook to the press or a brass collator. Thanks

[tocsin]

Hi all. Long time lurker and comment reader, first-time commenter. This design was the impetus for me buying a 3D printer, and I'm loving it so far! I have 14 or so more hours left on the base, and am ordering the other components I'll need. iFun Blue PLA is about the closest match to Dillon Blue that I've found. That is the 650 case feed tube support next to it. Not exact, but close enough for me. I'll be using this with the 650, and also with a Magma Star sizer. So tired of filling tubes! I'll be printing the colator plates with eSun PLA Pro + gray.

The light barrier switch on thingy is no longer available, but it looks like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VFBUFUS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AOEPEY6PZCP7F&psc=1)is the same one.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/j95G4JzT42J42A1n8

[schemelschelm]

I finished the bullet collator, too.
Here are some impressions:

235478

235479

235480

[6bg6ga]

Working on getting my own collator working now. I got 2 of the JGY 3RPM (highest torque) motors and both perform about the same they work well but only with 50-100 125gr 38sp bullets at a time in the collator. That's actually not as bad as it sounds since most of the holes are filled with bullets all the time it feeds very fast compared to the Hornady. I can put 200-250 in the Hornady with its beefy motor but it is so inefficient at getting bullets into the drop tube it will go empty at some point during 200 rounds of loading and have to wait for it to catch up at the end and it has to be left on and turning the whole time you are loading. (our TC bullets are very very tricky to get working on their collator plate design. The exact settings where it's perfectly reliable is also very slow to fill the tube). The AmmoMike even with the anemic JGY motor will easily feed the drop tube far faster than you can pull the handle on any press. But if you want 200+ in the hopper at once it's not happening with the JGY motor.

So I decided to do some looking into the ZGMP38 motors so I can use one on my next base print.

The ET-ZGMP38 motor design is not proprietary it is one of Eton's standard product lines it's just that if you research it long enough you'll notice it isn't a form factor made by very many motor companies. Really only Eton in China and Dayton provide them. Another company called Paragon also sells them but I think they are just another branch of Eton itself.

This week I sent some emails back and forth with sales at Eton motors in China about the ET-ZGMP38 series just to see what the options might be for small quantities. Minimum order quantity is 1000 pieces. Even a group buy isn't gonna do it. :) Pricing is great at that quantity, but obviously it should be as the investment is very large.


The company that has the minimum quantity of 1000 pieces.... email them and ask if they will sell a smaller quantity of motors. Tell them you would like to evaluate the motors prior to making a larger purchase. I have done this a number of times and every time I can get say 10-25 pieces of an item without a hitch. Generally they will contact me several times after I purchase a small quantity and ask if I would like to purchase another 10-25 pieces. Your not out anything to try.

[Tazza]

I finished the bullet collator, too.
Here are some impressions:

235478

235479

235480

Awesome job, nothing like a project working out as well as you hoped it would.

[marcolelectro]

Hi every body. This will be one of a my rare post.

I got my printer a week ago and my first project is this Bullet Feeder. Thanks to Ammomike83. This project was the reason why I bought a printer (ender 3 pro wich is a easy machine).
I will not write much on castboolits as I am not so good in english but I wanted to give a testimonial.

Aged 61 I am a old dog but still happy to learn new tricks.

[Venti30]

Hi.

First let me say to Ammomike, thank you for your hard work on this, and secondarily to all those posting to enhance the epxerience of others using this awesome item.

I've gone through all 32 pages, and perhaps I missed it...but is there a complete list of what's needed to print out of all the many part files listed in ammomike's thingieverse package for specific calibers?

My printer blew a gasket last week and thoroughly pissed me off, then I went out of town. Im back now and ready to pick up where I left off. I do think I may be printing things that I might not end up needing.

Thanks,

[dwwright]

I'm printing the parts for Harri678's case collator conversion (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3438569) using a JYG-370 10rpm motor. I'm assembling an entire new bullet feeder for this project. Here are a few pics of the coupler I used for this project.

The coupler I have is 6mm inside diameter on each end, 9mm outside diameter, I used a m3x25 screw for the Tee
237032

Cut the head off the screw.
237033

Used some blue locktite to lock it in place.
237034

Use some blue locktite on the M3x2.5 set screws when attaching to the motor. I did have to drill out motor shaft hole to about 1/2" to avoid the set screws binding on the base plastic.
237035

I had to enlarge the hole on the plate(s) to abut 9.10mm to fit this coupler.
237036

This was a just a quick test of the collator for 9mm, all fed the case head down in a dozen or more tests of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vj8MR93N-Ko

[chrisben]

I feel like I must be missing this on the thing page, or in the 33 pages I just read.... What spring are you guys using for the flipper?
Eyeballing it it seems to be close to a 3d printer bed spring, but the yellow die springs I have some of laying around seem too strong (they make the feeder jump a lot) even the crappy bed springs that I replaced on my ender3 are too stiff

By the way, don't print your base, and drop it on the ground on the way from the printer to the loading bench... ask me how I know? got a split housing, right at the point where the shell adheres to the bottom chunk. detatched all the way around. I melted it back on there with a hot air gun from my solder/rework station, we'll see how long it lasts, wost case I'll just print another one.

Thanks Mike for all your work and support on this, it's very much appreciated.

[dwwright]

I feel like I must be missing this on the thing page, or in the 33 pages I just read.... What spring are you guys using for the flipper?
Eyeballing it it seems to be close to a 3d printer bed spring, but the yellow die springs I have some of laying around seem too strong (they make the feeder jump a lot) even the crappy bed springs that I replaced on my ender3 are too stiff

By the way, don't print your base, and drop it on the ground on the way from the printer to the loading bench... ask me how I know? got a split housing, right at the point where the shell adheres to the bottom chunk. detatched all the way around. I melted it back on there with a hot air gun from my solder/rework station, we'll see how long it lasts, wost case I'll just print another one.

Thanks Mike for all your work and support on this, it's very much appreciated.

I believe I am using a spring from my 3d printer bed, maybe with a coil or so cut off.

[ProMSL]

I feel like I must be missing this on the thing page, or in the 33 pages I just read.... What spring are you guys using for the flipper?
Eyeballing it it seems to be close to a 3d printer bed spring, but the yellow die springs I have some of laying around seem too strong (they make the feeder jump a lot) even the crappy bed springs that I replaced on my ender3 are too stiff

By the way, don't print your base, and drop it on the ground on the way from the printer to the loading bench... ask me how I know? got a split housing, right at the point where the shell adheres to the bottom chunk. detatched all the way around. I melted it back on there with a hot air gun from my solder/rework station, we'll see how long it lasts, wost case I'll just print another one.

Thanks Mike for all your work and support on this, it's very much appreciated.

I was just about to ask this same question. The spring for the stock anet a8 bed is way too stiff for this. Anyone have suggestions?


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[Anuccite]

Just pulled the Trigger on an Ender 3x with Glass bed........ Can't wait to get started on my bullet feeder.... Will be using it with the Horady LnL AP . I have the hornady bullet feeder die already, hoping to make that work.

[ProMSL]

Just pulled the Trigger on an Ender 3x with Glass bed........ Can't wait to get started on my bullet feeder.... Will be using it with the Horady LnL AP . I have the hornady bullet feeder die already, hoping to make that work.

Ender 3 is a solid printer, you shouldn’t have an issue. I’m also using a LnL AP, though I started with the hornady die, I switch to the mr bullet feeder after it broke. The hornady die relies on compression to hold the bullets from dropping, which after some use broke on me.


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[Anuccite]

Ender 3 is a solid printer, you shouldn’t have an issue. I’m also using a LnL AP, though I started with the hornady die, I switch to the mr bullet feeder after it broke. The hornady die relies on compression to hold the bullets from dropping, which after some use broke on me.


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Yea, I have some issues with it and coated bullets.... so this may be the time to switch over

[ProMSL]

Yea, I have some issues with it and coated bullets.... so this may be the time to switch over

I had the same issue. I was using acme bullets, and the hornady die doesn’t like them. May be the coating or slight irregularities. None the less the mrbulletfeeder die has zero issues.


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[Anuccite]

What size screws do i need to source?

I think I found among the thread I need M5-.8 x25 MM for the MBF Motor.....

Any idea on what other size hardware i need to source?

found this on amazon.... Are these too small for the project?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775ZKB2H?pf_rd_p=1cac67ce-697a-47be-b2f5-9ae91aab54f2&pf_rd_r=WF5GWBH4N4KV2XYG8CPK

[Ruebarb]

I feel like I must be missing this on the thing page, or in the 33 pages I just read.... What spring are you guys using for the flipper?
Eyeballing it it seems to be close to a 3d printer bed spring, but the yellow die springs I have some of laying around seem too strong (they make the feeder jump a lot) even the crappy bed springs that I replaced on my ender3 are too stiff

By the way, don't print your base, and drop it on the ground on the way from the printer to the loading bench... ask me how I know? got a split housing, right at the point where the shell adheres to the bottom chunk. detatched all the way around. I melted it back on there with a hot air gun from my solder/rework station, we'll see how long it lasts, wost case I'll just print another one.

Thanks Mike for all your work and support on this, it's very much appreciated.

I have the same question, there is not a single comment on thingiverse or anywhere that indicates the type of spring to use for the flipper. No one can reference a Hillman group spring?

Thanks

[Lakehouse2012]

I have the same question, there is not a single comment on thingiverse or anywhere that indicates the type of spring to use for the flipper. No one can reference a Hillman group spring?

ThanksI just used a spring out of a pen, nothing special... lol

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[Ruebarb]

I just used a spring out of a pen, nothing special... lol

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Thanks

[6bg6ga]

Does someone have a collator plate design for 22 caliber rifle? Drop tube? Assorted parts? Also 30 caliber rifle?


I still have my collator sitting in the box unused and untested. I would be interested in purchasing some parts. PM if interested.

[ProMSL]

I made a thing, if people are looking for an alternative electrical box for the OpenBulletFeeder. This is a more mobile design.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3520214

[ProMSL]

Does someone have a collator plate design for 22 caliber rifle? Drop tube? Assorted parts? Also 30 caliber rifle?


I still have my collator sitting in the box unused and untested. I would be interested in purchasing some parts. PM if interested.

everything you need can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314

[6bg6ga]

everything you need can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314

I'm interested in someone selling me the parts. I don't own a printer yet so files are worthless to me.

[Ruebarb]

The 6.5 Creedmoor Drop Tube Big Switch Small Spring has the wrong ID, I fixed the drop tube.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3522571

[Rage 01]

I am just now getting around to finishing my bullet feeder. I have a question. Since the micro switch that is listed on the parts page is no longer being made. What is everyone using now? It's the last stage of my build.

[AR-Bossman]

Double alpha (Mr. Bulletfeeder) will sell you one. I got all the electronics from them and they didn't bat an eye. Multiple times in fact.

[ProMSL]

I am just now getting around to finishing my bullet feeder. I have a question. Since the micro switch that is listed on the parts page is no longer being made. What is everyone using now? It's the last stage of my build.

I went with the mr bullet feeder switch. Although I'm thinking about modifying the drop tube for it, as it sits somewhat low, not allowing that many bullets to load into the tube.

Others in this chat swear by the light sensor version.

[AR-Bossman]

What does your drop tube look like?

[ProMSL]

What does your drop tube look like?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190330/359ba8e1539fe407b52e0982939d3763.jpg

You can see the trigger arm is fairly low in the tube.



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[AR-Bossman]

If you printed that you could put an extension on that with tinkercad.

[ProMSL]

If you printed that you could put an extension on that with tinkercad.

Yea would be better off remodeling it in fusion360. Pretty simple to move the switch up. Also the base tolerances are slightly too much for my liking.


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[Ruebarb]

I went with the mr bullet feeder switch. Although I'm thinking about modifying the drop tube for it, as it sits somewhat low, not allowing that many bullets to load into the tube.

Others in this chat swear by the light sensor version.

You won't out run the MBF motor, so the # in the tube doesn't make a difference. I run the MBF on my 1050 fully automated 2,000+ rd hour

[6bg6ga]

I'm interested in someone selling me the parts. I don't own a printer yet so files are worthless to me.



Is anyone interested in making me a collator wheel for 22 caliber and 30 caliber along with the tube or other small parts I would need? I would gladly pay for this service since I do NOT own a printer.

[Followme438]

Mike, Just wanted to say thanks for all the hard work on the design and tweaking it since originally posted. I just started printing my base and am looking forward to putting it all together and mounting it on my LnL. Curious as to if anyone has tried a more boutique filament with this. I'm printing mine out of Raptor Series PLA (in red of course). That stuff is supposedly very strong. Also, based off of previous experience, I'm printing mine at a lower infill than 80%. I have a month in the desert coming up, so if it breaks, I'll just print a new one. Once its done printing (sometime late tonight), I will do a strength test on it with some .45s and see how she holds and, of course, post my findings here. Thanks again Mike.

[Ruebarb]

Is anyone interested in making me a collator wheel for 22 caliber and 30 caliber along with the tube or other small parts I would need? I would gladly pay for this service since I do NOT own a printer.

This was not a simple just print and play design, tolerances and fitment issues are all over the place. So even if someone sends you the parts, they many not work without modification and/or reprinting /remixing. I've had to refit every part and every hole.

[Ruebarb]

Mike, Just wanted to say thanks for all the hard work on the design and tweaking it since originally posted.

I'm going to echo that, thanks for starting this project and sharing it!

[AR-Bossman]

Mike, Just wanted to say thanks for all the hard work on the design and tweaking it since originally posted. I just started printing my base and am looking forward to putting it all together and mounting it on my LnL. Curious as to if anyone has tried a more boutique filament with this. I'm printing mine out of Raptor Series PLA (in red of course). That stuff is supposedly very strong. Also, based off of previous experience, I'm printing mine at a lower infill than 80%. I have a month in the desert coming up, so if it breaks, I'll just print a new one. Once its done printing (sometime late tonight), I will do a strength test on it with some .45s and see how she holds and, of course, post my findings here. Thanks again Mike.



Yeah, the infill recommendation is way overkill. 4 outside layers and around 30% infill is PLENTY strong. Wait till it's fully printed and you will see just how tough these prints are.
I wish I had the design files so I could make some small changes and get rid off all the holes I am not going to use.

[6bg6ga]

This was not a simple just print and play design, tolerances and fitment issues are all over the place. So even if someone sends you the parts, they many not work without modification and/or reprinting /remixing. I've had to refit every part and every hole.

If I am lucky enough to receive parts from a fellow forum member it would be with the full knowledge on my part that some additional work may be needed on my part for a perfect fit. I just need the parts.....I can make them work.

Just not ready to purchase more equipment that I will have to pack up when we move to Arizona. Makes more sense to move and then purchase something finiky like a 3D printer. This way a new machine doesn't get transported across the U.S. getting the hell shaken out of it.

[Ruebarb]

Yeah, the infill recommendation is way overkill. 4 outside layers and around 30% infill is PLENTY strong. Wait till it's fully printed and you will see just how tough these prints are.
I wish I had the design files so I could make some small changes and get rid off all the holes I am not going to use.

You can remove the holes fairly easy with meshmixer, use the selection tool over the hole, select the faces, delete, then use repair.

[Ruebarb]

If I am lucky enough to receive parts from a fellow forum member it would be with the full knowledge on my part that some additional work may be needed on my part for a perfect fit. I just need the parts.....I can make them work.

Just not ready to purchase more equipment that I will have to pack up when we move to Arizona. Makes more sense to move and then purchase something finiky like a 3D printer. This way a new machine doesn't get transported across the U.S. getting the hell shaken out of it.

Send me a PM or email

[Followme438]

Well, my base came out marvelously, and I am now printing the rest of the parts. Zero issues with the print, and I'm fairly certain it will hold up to any bullets I put in it.

[AR-Bossman]

Well, my base came out marvelously, and I am now printing the rest of the parts. Zero issues with the print, and I'm fairly certain it will hold up to any bullets I put in it.

Pics or it didn't happen.

[Followme438]

239324239325239326

[AR-Bossman]

Nice print. Keep us updated

[ProMSL]

239324239325239326

Nice print! You’ve probably figured out by now though that you have the flipper plate backwards, and you’ll need to adjust it out about a cm.


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[Ruebarb]

I have finished my 6.5mm Collator & Flip plate, works great.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547180
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547193

[dwwright]

I have finished my 6.5mm Collator & Flip plate, works great.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547180
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547193

Those look good! Saved for later.

[dwwright]

I'm working on a plate design to sort .380 ACP, Makarov, and 9mm cases from one another based on case length. Hopefully will have something posted up this weekend if anyone is interested.

[AR-Bossman]

I'm working on a plate design to sort .380 ACP, Makarov, and 9mm cases from one another based on case length. Hopefully will have something posted up this weekend if anyone is interested.

very interesting. Never thought of that being a possibility.

[dwwright]

very interesting. Never thought of that being a possibility.

It's still in design, but basically I'm creating a new base plate with slots for each size (9x17, 9x18, 9x19) with a step for each to ride and hopefully tip off into the correct slot in the base. Anything shorter (.22, .25, .32) could drop out the hole normally used for the drop tube. Longer ones I need to add something to kick them off the collator plate or prevent them from up-righting into the holes. I also still need to draw up some kind of funnel system to connect to direct sorted brass to their final destination.

239601

239602

[dwwright]

I was able to get a prototype printed tonight and mess with it a bit. I've got some modifications to do/try, but found it worked fine in small batches. The chrome plated brass is 9mm, the other is .380
239617

Just ran 3 tests with some masking tape to guide the brass to it's bucket. Each time all went to it's correct bucket.
239618239619239620

However more than a handful of brass and things got dicey. The current design doesn't allow much play and it has to run pretty flat to get the brass to topple, so when there is too much brass in the cup it tends to ride up in between brass in the collator and jamb it. I have a couple of ideas to try, but hopefully will work it out this week.

[AR-Bossman]

Outstanding and inventive and to already have an actual "working" setup is pretty cool.

[Ruebarb]

Outstanding and inventive and to already have an actual "working" setup is pretty cool.

Agreed, very awesome and a working concept model too.

[dwwright]

I made some progress, but still not consistent when there is a lot of brass in the cup. I need to mount the feeder to keep the angle consistent mostly. I also still have some brass getting caught when it's between the notches of the collator plate, I may need to add some small ramps there to keep any from riding up with the brass that has fallen into that plate.

It would also help if I got the speed controller put on this feeder as it's running at about 10 or 15 rpm currently and with 3 different sizes to sort it may be running too fast for the short time it has to drop into it's slot that 50mm wide plate, which individually are about 14 mm wide.

[ProMSL]

Could someone explain to me how this side mount is configured?
240001

I see that its using this printed piece, and there looks to be screws in each of the holes around the circular part, but what is on the inside to allow it to mount?
240002

[Ruebarb]

Could someone explain to me how this side mount is configured?
240001

I see that its using this printed piece, and there looks to be screws in each of the holes around the circular part, but what is on the inside to allow it to mount?
240002

I looked at the bf_v2_mount_hang_var_bf_side_WH120, it appears to use 4 screws to bite into the threads of the bolt, just 4 little screws holding this together. I wouldn't recommend it, this design is much better, bf_v2_mount_3_4_inch_squared_WH120

If you want to use round 1" OD, then check out my re-mix
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3531187
240028

[ProMSL]

I looked at the .STL, it appears to use 4 screws to bite into the threads of the bolt, just 4 little screws holding this together. I wouldn't recommend it, this design is much better, bf_v2_mount_3_4_inch_squared_WH120

If you want to use round 1" OD, then check out my re-mix
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3531187
240028

Yea I ended up going with that mount. I guessed it was just as you said, screws biting on the threads of a bolt, which I feel wouldn’t be secure enough.


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[Anuccite]

Ruebarb, I like that mount design.... I used the 1" round tube adapter of Mike's... But nothing 1" I could find fit it. I ended up getting 3/4 black pipe and a floor flange and put a couple washers inside the 1" fitting to make everything work..... Mounted it to my ceiling above my 1050. Yup it was too far right the 1st shot...... But this is "my room" so I didn't get a beating :-P

I may print your adjustable one and see if that works better for me.

240126
240127

[Ruebarb]

Ruebarb, I like that mount design.... I used the 1" round tube adapter of Mike's... But nothing 1" I could find fit it. I ended up getting 3/4 black pipe and a floor flange and put a couple washers inside the 1" fitting to make everything work..... Mounted it to my ceiling above my 1050. Yup it was too far right the 1st shot...... But this is "my room" so I didn't get a beating :-P

I may print your adjustable one and see if that works better for me.

240126
240127

Spackle & caulk are our friend, hide most mistakes.

Interesting approach, I never thought of mounting from the ceiling. If you try mine, let me know how it works for you, thanks

[ProMSL]

I finally got my feeder up and running, just need to find a spring for the little flipper finger thing.

If anyone would like the files for the cable cover, under the bullet feeder, or the Jig I used to line up the holes on the 3/4 in rod, you can find them here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3520214


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LUiNkP8l73QmrlJOgBKo-eAZ_DieVBwt

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190421/bd7f15f93ea615b8886a2cf24ab43bc3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190421/0fde3fe6fa9d7d3350ccd66e99b29b63.jpg

[Anuccite]

I finally got my feeder up and running, just need to find a spring for the little flipper finger thing.

I just used a ball point pen spring..... worked perfect

[Yukonjack3d]

I've read all 35 pages and got an Ender 3 coming tomorrow. Can't wait to start making this!

[pastera]

I've read all 35 pages and got an Ender 3 coming tomorrow. Can't wait to start making this!

No issues printing the collator with my Ender 3 - Just be certain to get your slicer settings ironed out before starting in on a 30 hour print.

[Yukonjack3d]

These are the settings I was planning to use. Any recommended changes? btw, the cubic subdivision infil is listed since I read that it is very strong (also reduces print time a bit).
241916

[ProMSL]

These are the settings I was planning to use. Any recommended changes? btw, the cubic subdivision infil is listed since I read that it is very strong (also reduces print time a bit).
241916

Assuming you’re printing with a .04 nozzle, I think that’s the size that comes with an ender 3, you should change your layer height to .16.


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[ProMSL]

These are the settings I was planning to use. Any recommended changes? btw, the cubic subdivision infil is listed since I read that it is very strong (also reduces print time a bit).


But even more so print out a calibration cube, adjust your printer correctly, and do a couple test prints before you start on a long print. Also print out a temperature tower for the filament you’re using.

Go ahead a google it and it’ll make sense to you.


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[wrinkles]

Just an FYI I was able to get the feeder to reliable flip cast bullets (power coated) Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold 356-125-2R 9mm Luger, 38 Super, 380 ACP (356 Diameter) 125 Grain 2 Ogive Radius using the bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_big_cal_double_slide.stl

[nexgen23]

Anyone tried printing this with a bigger nozzle (.6mm .8mm etc)? Can anyone see any issues with that?

[Followme438]

Been out of the game due to training, but does anyone have any suggestions as to which switch to purchase? I'm gonna be assembling mine for 9mm and 40 here in the next week or so.

[nexgen23]

Been out of the game due to training, but does anyone have any suggestions as to which switch to purchase? I'm gonna be assembling mine for 9mm and 40 here in the next week or so.

For the drop tubes? I recommend using the light barriers ones and these two items:

GERI 12V Light Control Switch The Photoresistor Plus Relay Module The Light Detection Switch Photosensitive Sensor (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VFBUFUS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)


LAOMAO 1 Pack (20 Bulbs) 5mm 12V DC White LED Pre-Wired Round Top Bulb Lamp For DIY Car Boat Toys Parties (5mm, White) (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H98OS2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

It's working well in my initial testing using MBF motor setup. If you need any help let me know and I'll try to help as much as I can. It has been trial and error for me trying to assemble this thing, as I am not getting much response or feedback here or on Thingiverse.

[natchomamma]

Is anyone selling the 3d printed parts to assemble a bullet collator? I don't have a 3-d printer but would like to assemble a 9mm bullet feeder for my Dillon 650XL.

[kmitchl]

I guess I'm late to the party but I just started building the bullet feeder. I just completed printing the 9mm collator plate. Took over 18 hours. I used .16 height, and 80% fill. What settings is everyone using to get acceptable products in less time?

[RiaanStrydom]

Yeah I'm also late to the party, and was having some challenges mounting the motor shaft to the collator plate. I am using the JGY-370 12V 10RPM Motor. Has anybody here used that motor to successfully turn the collator plate? I'm not 100% how I can mount the plate to the shaft without needing to weld something to the shaft to turn the plate. Quite stumped here....

[kmitchl]

Yeah I'm also late to the party, and was having some challenges mounting the motor shaft to the collator plate. I am using the JGY-370 12V 10RPM Motor. Has anybody here used that motor to successfully turn the collator plate? I'm not 100% how I can mount the plate to the shaft without needing to weld something to the shaft to turn the plate. Quite stumped here....

I have the same question. In looking at a number of YouTube videos it appears that the drive for the collator plate is just a cross pin through the shaft. So the collator plate slides on the bottom of the bowl. There is a 3d printed driver for the JGY-370 motor on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3202207) but I have not printed it to see how well it works.

[kmitchl]

I have the same question. In looking at a number of YouTube videos it appears that the drive for the collator plate is just a cross pin through the shaft. So the collator plate slides on the bottom of the bowl. There is a 3d printed driver for the JGY-370 motor on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3202207) but I have not printed it to see how well it works.

Well I printed the drive device for the 370 motor. It seems to fit well and has a shoulder to raise the collator plate off the bottom of the bowl. Not knowing the torque available from the motor or the torque load from the bullets I can't comment on how well it will work long term. If this fails I'll machine something from brass that is more robust. FYI the thread down the center of the motor shaft is M3 X 0.5.

[kmitchl]

Well sad to report the printer collator plate driver failed right below where the wing connects to the shaft. The shaft is hollow at this point. A small tweak to the CAD model would fix this.

[kmitchl]

Does the collator plate ride on the bottom of the bullet feeder case or is there a spacer on the motor drive shaft that spaces it above the case? In looking at the MBF motor there does not appear to be a shoulder for the collator plate to ride on above the case bottom.

[AR-Bossman]

Does the collator plate ride on the bottom of the bullet feeder case or is there a spacer on the motor drive shaft that spaces it above the case? In looking at the MBF motor there does not appear to be a shoulder for the collator plate to ride on above the case bottom.

You get everything figured out?

[thormx538]

I had a buddy of mine print everything for me, and for the mounting method I have the bf_v2_mount_hang_cf_side and the corresponding bf_side.

How are you guys attaching these? At first glance I assumed a bolt all the way through (coaxial to the round mating surface) but the hole isn't drilled through. Are you using a 3/8" diameter threaded rod about an 1.5" long, and then 4x set screws on each piece to pinch the rod?

[AR-Bossman]

Good luck getting a reply here. This whole thread is just plain dead.

[thormx538]

Seems that way. Is there anywhere better on the web you know of? I haven't found anywhere.

[AR-Bossman]

NO this is pretty much the only thread I've ever seen. There are so many mount and motor combos, that finding someone that has used your specific setup is gonna be hard. You might try some of the facebook Dillon and Hornady groups. These 3d printed bullet feeders pop up now and then.

[ProMSL]

The easiest solution I’ve found is to just use the mrbulletfeeder motor. I also use their switch.


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[AR-Bossman]

The easiest solution I’ve found is to just use the mrbulletfeeder motor. I also use their switch.


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SAME. For the price it's awesome. But you can't forget reloaders are some of the cheapest people on earth and if there was a way to hook up that old Ford 390 in the backyard to the Bullet Feeder they would be crying for an adapter.

[thormx538]

Just in case anyone else is googling for an answer, I used a threaded M10 rod cut to length to join the sides of the variable mount. One side printed out tight enough that I could tap it to M10 and thread the rod into it, and the other side was a tight press fit so I secured it with some set screws. I had to cut down the inside leg of the casefeeder side mount to work with the Dillon casefeeder.

[Anuccite]

As of today, Mike's Design of this on Thingverse has been taken down

[Lakehouse2012]

This is sad news, wonder if its because of threat of copyright infringement or he was just overwhelmed with all the updates and requests....

Unfortunately for MB, if its copyright, it wont slow down an individual from being creative, im sure there are 100s if not 1000s of Mikes files on computers all over the world...

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[Phlier]

As of today, Mike's Design of this on Thingverse has been taken down


This is sad news, wonder if its because of threat of copyright infringement or he was just overwhelmed with all the updates and requests....

Unfortunately for MB, if its copyright, it wont slow down an individual from being creative, im sure there are 100s if not 1000s of Mikes files on computers all over the world...

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I downloaded the version that was up on Thingiverse about two weeks ago... I think I still have them.

Wondering what the rules are about such things...wondering if the mods would be OK with me attaching them to a post?

[Anuccite]

Also Just read that DAA will no longer sell Motors, power supplies, microswitches, or wiring harnesses

[Rage 01]

To answer that question: Yes that is what I did. I think my Rod might have been a little longer that 1.5 inches tho. But you are on the right track.
Eventually I will make something else.

[Rage 01]

When using a Jgy 370 motor. Anyone know what the RPM should be. I will be using a speed controller.

[HATCH]

Also Just read that DAA will no longer sell Motors, power supplies, microswitches, or wiring harnesses

They are getting smart.
Glad I have mine motors already


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[Cavallino]

Someone please tell me that they still have all the STL files from Thingiverse. I just bought an ender 5, 4 weeks ago and never got around to downloading all the files, I think I'm missing the light sensor drop tube files.

[RedlegEd]

Someone please tell me that they still have all the STL files from Thingiverse. I just bought an ender 5, 4 weeks ago and never got around to downloading all the files, I think I'm missing the light sensor drop tube files.

No longer have them. Ed

[AR-Bossman]

I came on here to see if anything new was posted, and the whole DIY bullet feeder world has been blown apart. I use the DAA stuff. Stuff is not on their site, but where did you read this initially? This is horrible.

[Lakehouse2012]

Someone please tell me that they still have all the STL files from Thingiverse. I just bought an ender 5, 4 weeks ago and never got around to downloading all the files, I think I'm missing the light sensor drop tube files.Check your default "downloads" folder if on a windows machine. If you havent manually cleaned them out, every zip file you downloaded would still be there...

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[Anuccite]

When using a Jgy 370 motor. Anyone know what the RPM should be. I will be using a speed controller.

Buy The 10RPM.... and use the speed controller.... Unless you have automation I don't think you will be able to outrun it

[Phlier]

They are getting smart.
Glad I have mine motors already


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Hatch, is it ok if I attach the .zip archive of the files that were current on Thingiverse as of November 4 to a post in this thread?

I don't see that we'd run into a legality problem, as these are open source licensed files that were freely available to redistribute (and modify) under that license.

I've been getting quite a few PM's for the files, and was just thinking this would be a better way for guys that need the files to get them.

[HATCH]

I don’t see a issue with that


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[AR-Bossman]

Hatch, is it ok if I attach the .zip archive of the files that were current on Thingiverse as of November 4 to a post in this thread?

I don't see that we'd run into a legality problem, as these are open source licensed files that were freely available to redistribute (and modify) under that license.

I've been getting quite a few PM's for the files, and was just thinking this would be a better way for guys that need the files to get them.

None of that applies if they were taken down under threat of legal action from Mr. Bulletfeeder. MBF also sunk a project called Entirely Crimson.

[Phlier]

I don’t see a issue with that


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Thanks! :)


None of that applies if they were taken down under threat of legal action from Mr. Bulletfeeder. MBF also sunk a project called Entirely Crimson.
We don't know why they were taken down, just that they were taken down.

I'm going to attempt to attach the .zip archive of AmmoMike's Open Bullet Feeder project that was current as of November 4, 2019 to this post.

Actually, it's not going to work... the forum size limit for .zip archives is 3MB per file. The project .zip file is 29MB, so I'd need to split the archive into 10 pieces, and attach it to ten posts.

I want to make darn sure that I'm following the forum rules, so I hate to bother you again, HATCH, but it is OK if I make ten consecutive posts, each one containing a piece of the archive?

[AR-Bossman]

Thanks! :)


We don't know why they were taken down, just that they were taken down.




Well I agree with ya on that.. but @ammomike83 hasn't been seen on here since MARCH 2019 so it's pretty obvious he cares very little about his creation. What we can do is look at the obvious facts. It was taken down (by thingiverse or ammomike) and MBF has made it impossible to buy parts from their store that fit the kit. Coincidence... I think not. MBF may even be monitoring this thread. It's probably the the longest and most complete of any I've found about the DIY bullet feeder.

[AmmoMike83]

253199
Well I agree with ya on that.. but @ammomike83 hasn't been seen on here since MARCH 2019 so it's pretty obvious he cares very little about his creation. What we can do is look at the obvious facts. It was taken down (by thingiverse or ammomike) and MBF has made it impossible to buy parts from their store that fit the kit. Coincidence... I think not. MBF may even be monitoring this thread. It's probably the the longest and most complete of any I've found about the DIY bullet feeder.

[Phlier]

Edited due to the information received from AmmoMike83 in the above post.

[AR-Bossman]

Well I guess ammomike settled that part of the mystery.

@Phlier I think you should just keep going behind the scenes like you have been doing.

[Phlier]

253199
Man, I am so sorry to hear that. It just boggles the mind that they can claim intellectual property on a design that is so widely used by so many companies that sell collators. Guess they're paying royalties to DA?

I haven't bought a DA bullet feeder because IMO, they are severely over priced. Given their recent action(s), I guess I'll add another reason. :( I don't mind a company making a fair profit, but their prices are just an outright rip off, IMO at least.

Well I guess ammomike settled that part of the mystery.

@Phlier I think you should just keep going behind the scenes like you have been doing.

Yeah, it's just a bit of a hassle to keep having to respond to PM's from guys wanting the files. :/

And HATCH, I obviously won't be posting the files now. :(

[Phlier]

253199

Hey Mike, I don't know how much you can share, or if you even want to be bothered, but...

Just wondering what part of the project they are claiming is covered by intellectual property rights? Do they own a patent on part/all of the design?

No worries if you can't respond, but I'm sure there are quite a few of us that are more than a little bit curious.

[AR-Bossman]

Hey Mike, I don't know how much you can share, or if you even want to be bothered, but...

Just wondering what part of the project they are claiming is covered by intellectual property rights? Do they own a patent on part/all of the design?

No worries if you can't respond, but I'm sure there are quite a few of us that are more than a little bit curious.


Here's the patent

US8661959B2

I can't seem to add a link to this site for some reason. So google that number.

Take a read through that tech/legal jargon. Looks like any system that uses a ramp to re-orientate the bullet is gonna get hammered.

[Phlier]

Here's the patent

US8661959B2

I can't seem to add a link to this site for some reason. So google that number.

Take a read through that tech/legal jargon. Looks like any system that uses a ramp to re-orientate the bullet is gonna get hammered.
Great work finding that, thanks!

I just read recently where patents can be challenged, based on whether or not the design is "obvious." Since a very similar mechanism is in use for brass collating, it seems like a case could be made, should someone actually want to challenge the patent, or defend their usage of such a system in their own design.... ;)

So I'll just leave this here...

[AR-Bossman]

Great work finding that, thanks!

I just read recently where patents can be challenged, based on whether or not the design is "obvious." Since a very similar mechanism is in use for brass collating, it seems like a case could be made, should someone actually want to challenge the patent, or defend their usage of such a system in their own design.... ;)

So I'll just leave this here...

I did a quick search an found this... and this is why people don't fight stuff like this...


A rough ballpark estimate of the costs of an inter partes review is approximately $300K to $600K. That is by no means cheap, but may still be considered a bargain compared to the costs of defending a patent infringement litigation in federal court which could easily reach $1-4 million or more. If an IPR is instituted, USPTO fees alone start at $23,000.

In view of these six-figure costs, it makes a great deal of sense to invest in thorough prior art searching.

Federal court judges have generally been favorable to staying, or suspending, a pending patent lawsuit to wait for the outcome an IPR which concludes within 1 year from the date of institution. Therefore, patent infringement defendants can defer hefty litigation costs, particularly those associated with litigation discovery, while contesting the validity of the patent-in-suit before the Patent Trial and Appeal Board (PTAB) at the USPTO.

[AR-Bossman]

Also here is a post from Karl Bibb's Facebook. He was authorized by AmmoMike to use the design and print these for people who didn't have printers or the $450 to buy the MBF

So here is the reply I got after telling him I was quitting:

Mr. Bibb,
I thank you for your quick response and for taking corrective action.
My lawyer requires a letter from you, stating that you will immediately stop selling any Bulletfeeder design that infringes on our US patents. I need that letter on your letterhead, signed and dated.
You can read the patents, they are available. your product currently infringes on many aspects of the patent, noticeably the way the bullet is orientated and outputted from the collator.
Saul Kirsch
General Manager
Double-Alpha Academy B.V.

[Anuccite]

It's tough to argue that DAA doesn't want people being able to buy a knockoff, But I'm not going to stop using mine, and I can't blame anyone for buying a 3D printer and printing their own.

Someone will always have the files, and aside from the motor holes, the basic 3d Design has not changed.

[HATCH]

This only applies to those people that are selling the printed units.

Thingy verse is just being overly protective as they don’t want the hassle.
There is no restriction on you printing this up and using it for your personal use.



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[Phlier]

I did a quick search an found this... and this is why people don't fight stuff like this...


A rough ballpark estimate of the costs of an inter partes review is approximately $300K to $600K. That is by no means cheap, but may still be considered a bargain compared to the costs of defending a patent infringement litigation in federal court which could easily reach $1-4 million or more. If an IPR is instituted, USPTO fees alone start at $23,000.

In view of these six-figure costs, it makes a great deal of sense to invest in thorough prior art searching.

Federal court judges have generally been favorable to staying, or suspending, a pending patent lawsuit to wait for the outcome an IPR which concludes within 1 year from the date of institution. Therefore, patent infringement defendants can defer hefty litigation costs, particularly those associated with litigation discovery, while contesting the validity of the patent-in-suit before the Patent Trial and Appeal Board (PTAB) at the USPTO.

It sure seems to me that the collators that have been used for decades to collate brass would qualify as "prior art" and the new design being "obvious" based on that prior art, but of course that's not for me to decide.

Seems like this shouldn't have been issued a patent in the first place. But... thread drift. I'll just leave it alone from here out and wish both Karl and AmmoMike83 the best. Thank you both for helping to make bullet feeders available to those that otherwise couldn't afford it.

My 3D printer won't get here until mid January at the earliest, but I'll be sure and update the thread along the way as the build progresses, and hopefully be able to provide links to alternative parts now that DAA has shutoff the pipeline.

Through PM's, I've discovered that I might not have the very latest version of the project files. As I have no way of printing them at the moment, I can't give any information on if they are: current, working, what other parts you need, etc.

[HATCH]

I know for a fact that someone else has the source for the motors and all the other MBF type parts.
I am just lucky enough to have purchased two sets of everything early on.
Good luck


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[jmorris]

The Dayton 2L007 (8.8 RPM), 2L008 (12 RPM) and 2L009 (17 RPM) are the same dimensions as the MBF motor. They likely got a cheaper knock off though because the MBF motors are about half price even after their markup.

[Phlier]

I know for a fact that someone else has the source for the motors and all the other MBF type parts.
Well, hopefully that "someone" will chime in with that very helpful piece of info.


The Dayton 2L007 (8.8 RPM), 2L008 (12 RPM) and 2L009 (17 RPM) are the same dimensions as the MBF motor. They likely got a cheaper knock off though because the MBF motors are about half price even after their markup.

Thanks!

Edit: Looks like all of those Dayton motors are discontinued. Still possible to find them new, albeit at a pretty stiff price. There's a few re-built ones to be had at cheaper prices, though.