Making that Bullet Collator

[lablover]

TylerR,

I was looking at the same thing last night. Let me throw up a video of the one I did with the 2.5 hole spacing. Works much better.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IC5BjagSCvc


https://youtu.be/jdyJvXrG_GE


That’s real slick, can I ask you what powder funnel you are using? Also, I’ll be calling Magma Monday and ordering that master caster I see you have in the background!

[j_dude77]

That’s real slick, can I ask you what powder funnel you are using? Also, I’ll be calling Magma Monday and ordering that master caster I see you have in the background!

I ordered the Double Alphas for 9mm, 40, and 45 and the Lyman m dies for 223 and 308. Just got the Master Caster in a few days ago, still setting it up. I also got the bullet feeder for the Star Sizer, but I have to call Magma tomorrow, they forgot to send the spacer block. Just a heads up, I ordered my Master Caster back in July and the original ship date was late September. So they are about 3 months behind. Just make sure you order everything you need at once.

[TylerR]

TylerR,
I was looking at the same thing last night. Let me throw up a video of the one I did with the 2.5 hole spacing. Works much better.


Looks very nice. So what is your opinion on adding ridges to the bullet plates?

[lablover]

I ordered the Double Alphas for 9mm, 40, and 45 and the Lyman m dies for 223 and 308. Just got the Master Caster in a few days ago, still setting it up. I also got the bullet feeder for the Star Sizer, but I have to call Magma tomorrow, they forgot to send the spacer block. Just a heads up, I ordered my Master Caster back in July and the original ship date was late September. So they are about 3 months behind. Just make sure you order everything you need at once.

I called them last week and they said could be 6 months. I can wait! Look forward to your thoughts on the master caster after you have it set up. I shoot a lot and love casting but I need more and need em faster so it seemed like a no brainer.

Tyler, I can't see why the ridges would hurt anything and if anything I think it would make the bullets tumble better in the hopper. Then again Ive never used rifle bullets in a feeder so really not sure. Look forward to what you come up with as I'm ready to print one myself. J Dude does seem to have good luck without the ridges

[j_dude77]

Looks very nice. So what is your opinion on adding ridges to the bullet plates?

Is there a way to measure the gap from the end of the ridge to the end of the plate. 223 might be small enough to bypass the ridge when they hang up in the bottom of the bowl. That is what I was looking at last night. My first video shows that.

[lablover]

I ordered the Double Alphas for 9mm, 40, and 45 and the Lyman m dies for 223 and 308. Just got the Master Caster in a few days ago, still setting it up. I also got the bullet feeder for the Star Sizer, but I have to call Magma tomorrow, they forgot to send the spacer block. Just a heads up, I ordered my Master Caster back in July and the original ship date was late September. So they are about 3 months behind. Just make sure you order everything you need at once.

Is that a Double Alpha bullet feeder die for your 5.56/223? Im half tempted to print one, or try to

[j_dude77]

v1.0.7 is up. It has the changes mentioned in the last two pages, including the collator generator, slide plates, and drop tubes.

TylerR,

Did you change both slide plates, or just the large?

[GWS]

TylerR: My .45 nose down plate has nothing to do with your rifle project, but I did add some ridges to the plate. The picture below shows my weird addition to bypass the so-called patent infringing ramp:

https://i.postimg.cc/tJS5J4CD/IMG-3600.jpg

As you know, the idea was to prevent bullets from dropping into plate holes base down, and it worked, but I did use "ridges" on the otherwise flat plate, but for a different reason. See the fingers stickng out from the bottom of the baffle? Those were to catch any upright bullets sliding like soldiers at attention at the bottom. Then when a ridge on the plate would come along, it would cause the fingers to knock the upright bullets down sidways, so they would roll under the baffle and find a hole to drop in.

In the rifle plate's case, I'm wondering why you would use them, unless you have a counter resistance of some kind, to flip, funnel, rotate, or knockdown bullets. For that matter, I've never really understood why Ammo Mike designed the radial plows at each hole?......I see that it provides a ride for some of the .223 bullets around the merry-go-round, but I can't tell much more.....so they really make a difference? Trying to learn more..... (obviously for my above design radial troughs would have wrecked the concept providing more means for bullets to drop base down)

My next project is going to be a rifle bullet feeder too.....so I'm trying to grab all the knowledge I can.;)

[TylerR]

Is there a way to measure the gap from the end of the ridge to the end of the plate. 223 might be small enough to bypass the ridge when they hang up in the bottom of the bowl. That is what I was looking at last night. My first video shows that.

I just changed it so there is almost no gap there now. About 1mm.

[TylerR]

TylerR,

Did you change both slide plates, or just the large?

Both. I don't think it should affect your using the small plate for .223. Either way I am going to design a plate specifically around .223 so should be a non issue.

[TylerR]

For that matter, I've never really understood why Ammo Mike designed the radial plows at each hole?......I see that it provides a ride for some of the .223 bullets around the merry-go-round, but I can't tell much more.....so they really make a difference? Trying to learn more..... (obviously for my above design radial troughs would have wrecked the concept providing more means for bullets to drop base down)


This is a great question. I think the idea is to provide a channel for the bullet to slide down in to the hole when its at the bottom, but not sure how much difference it really makes. I have not tested it without them. Having the feeder at a steeper angle tends to eliminate them from riding the top because they slide off back to the bottom more easily.

This is why I made this all parameter driven, so people could experiment with it. So who wants to print a bullet plate with ridges and no slides?

[GWS]

I just changed it so there is almost no gap there now. About 1mm.

It'll be interesting to see if the ridges are enough to derail that little bullet train.....fun stuff.

Oh, I should tell you that I had my ridges go to the end of the plates but that backfired with the baffle above it. Bullets knocked the ridges clean off under the baffle so I cut them back to a couple of mm's inside the baffle. You shouldn't have that problem.....I think.

[j_dude77]

Both. I don't think it should affect your using the small plate for .223. Either way I am going to design a plate specifically around .223 so should be a non issue.

I was asking cause I will print the new one to try for these. Seems they sometime drop off the base, but the nose has a wide meplat. I may have to reprint the collator plate, since I accidentally left brim on and the bottom of the holes are kinda rough.


https://youtu.be/3owXyrG6N7k

[TylerR]

I was asking cause I will print the new one to try for these. Seems they sometime drop off the base, but the nose has a wide meplat. I may have to reprint the collator plate, since I accidentally left brim on and the bottom of the holes are kinda rough.


Are those .45's or something else? Are you using my standard pistol collator plate, or is this one you modified and generated? If using my stock plate and slide there is 2.5mm of ridge for those bullets to ride on. It does not look like they are bevel based so nose up ones really should not be dropping off the ridge like that.

Instead of printing a new plate just take an xacto and clean up that bottom edge.

[TylerR]

j dude, can you snap a pic that shows the angle your feeder is sitting at in its current config?

[j_dude77]

Are those .45's or something else? Are you using my standard pistol collator plate, or is this one you modified and generated? If using my stock plate and slide there is 2.5mm of ridge for those bullets to ride on. It does not look like they are bevel based so nose up ones really should not be dropping off the ridge like that.

Instead of printing a new plate just take an xacto and clean up that bottom edge.

.357 with your small plate and large flipper slide.

[TylerR]

.357 with the small plate and large flipper slide.

You are using the small pistol collator plate with the large pistol slide? You should be using the small pistol slide with the small collator plate. Unless I am mis-understanding.

[gnafin]

I was asking cause I will print the new one to try for these. Seems they sometime drop off the base, but the nose has a wide meplat. I may have to reprint the collator plate, since I accidentally left brim on and the bottom of the holes are kinda rough.


https://youtu.be/3owXyrG6N7k

what motor are you using? looks like what i have(fc-555) if it's the same how did you drill the hole for the pin? the shaft is very hard. i had to make a adapter, just had to make it bigger. 270165

[j_dude77]

You are using the small pistol collator plate with the large pistol slide? You should be using the small pistol slide with the small collator plate. Unless I am mis-understanding.

Yes I am using the small plate and large flipper. The nose on that bullet is .270 and the body is .359. The small slide is too wide, the nose just rides over the ridge and does not drop down. The large slide allows the nose to drop and ride up the ramp.

[j_dude77]

what motor are you using? looks like what i have(fc-555) if it's the same how did you drill the hole for the pin? the shaft is very hard. i had to make a adapter, just had to make it bigger. 270165

My motor is the ETZGMP-38. The shaft is hard, but cobalt drill bits are harder. Just go slow when you drill it. No oil needed. That cobalt slices through steel like butter.

[TylerR]

Yes I am using the small plate and large flipper. The nose on that bullet is .270 and the body is .359. The small slide is too wide, the nose just rides over the ridge and does not drop down. The large slide allows the nose to drop and ride up the ramp.

This is a direct result of me adding extra ridge distance to account for Bevel Based bullets. So its a damned if you do an damned if you don't. The quickest solution would again be to put a set screw in the back of the plate and push it out 1.5mm or so. Running it the way you are now, there is barely any ridge exposed to keep the nose ups riding the ridge.

[TylerR]

My motor is the ETZGMP-38. The shaft is hard, but cobalt drill bits are harder. Just go slow when you drill it. No oil needed. That cobalt slices through steel like butter.

I won't lie, I drilled two ETZGMP-38 motor shafts and one went well, and the other was just burning up bits. I ended up taking the shaft out of the motor and heating it with a blow torch to remove some of the hardness. Got it up to a dull glow and let it cool down on its own. After that the drill bit went through like butter. Sure the shaft is a bit softer now, but for this application its a non issue.

[j_dude77]

This is a direct result of me adding extra ridge distance to account for Bevel Based bullets. So its a damned if you do an damned if you don't. The quickest solution would again be to put a set screw in the back of the plate and push it out 1.5mm or so. Running it the way you are now, there is barely any ridge exposed to keep the nose ups riding the ridge.

This is the 1.0.6 slide. I have not tried the new ones yet. Just gotta try and find a compromise that works best for most. Worst case, I can try and mod the slide for what I need. Now I see why ammomike had a crazy amount of files with his setup.

[gnafin]

I won't lie, I drilled two ETZGMP-38 motor shafts and one went well, and the other was just burning up bits. I ended up taking the shaft out of the motor and heating it with a blow torch to remove some of the hardness. Got it up to a dull glow and let it cool down on its own. After that the drill bit went through like butter. Sure the shaft is a bit softer now, but for this application its a non issue.

i was thinking of doing that. i might do that as well.

[TylerR]

This is the 1.0.6 slide. I have not tried the new ones yet. Just gotta try and find a compromise that works best for most. Worst case, I can try and mod the slide for what I need. Now I see why ammomike had a crazy amount of files with his setup.

The new version only changed where the ridge hits the ramp, not how much ridge is exposed in relation to the collator plate. So the new one won't make any difference here.
I think Mike only had 4 different versions of the slide plate based on what I see in the files. I could create all kinds of variations of the slide plates, but the question is what is going to work in all these various situations, and how will people keep them all straight.

I suspect the original one I had before making the BB modification would have worked for you here. It exposed about 1.5mm (not 2.5mm) of ridge, which would have allowed the nose down to drop but kept the nose up on the ridge.

[TylerR]

I have said before that I am also willing to provide these slides in file formats other then stl if people want to modify them. I can export them as .dxf or .skp if anyone is interested.
Or if anyone wants to try DesignSpark I can give the native file format for that.

[TylerR]

The new version only changed where the ridge hits the ramp, not how much ridge is exposed in relation to the collator plate. So the new one won't make any difference here.
I think Mike only had 4 different versions of the slide plate based on what I see in the files. I could create all kinds of variations of the slide plates, but the question is what is going to work in all these various situations, and how will people keep them all straight.

I suspect the original one I had before making the BB modification would have worked for you here. It exposed about 1.5mm (not 2.5mm) of ridge, which would have allowed the nose down to drop but kept the nose up on the ridge.

I am wondering if 2mm ridge would be the sweet spot to handle both scenarios, but it would have to be tested by you guys.

[j_dude77]

I am wondering if 2mm ridge would be the sweet spot to handle both scenarios, but it would have to be tested by you guys.

I am willing to test anything. May just need a few different slides for different scenarios. I also cast 45 and 44 mag with large meplats, so would probably run into the same problem with those.

[TylerR]

I am willing to test anything.

Just posted it. The ridge is moved in .5mm. running the collator without too much angle might just be the ticket to get those noses to drop.

[r4ndy]

Is anyone using the feeder with a Dillon 750? Just upgraded from a Lee Pro 1000. I got the press setup and put the drop tube on and when the powder bar activated it rammed into the drop tube and split it in half :(

I have the feeder in position 4 and even if I move it to position 3 it looks like it is going to ram it.

[lablover]

Is anyone using the feeder with a Dillon 750? Just upgraded from a Lee Pro 1000. I got the press setup and put the drop tube on and when the powder bar activated it rammed into the drop tube and split it in half :(

I have the feeder in position 4 and even if I move it to position 3 it looks like it is going to ram it.

I recall Double Alpha or someone posted a issue with bullet feeders and the 750, I think it was a easy fix if I recall. You might want to google it and see.

Tyler, would it be too much of an issue to maybe label the plates on the bottom so one could keep them in order? Just a thought

[TylerR]

Tyler, would it be too much of an issue to maybe label the plates on the bottom so one could keep them in order? Just a thought

I have considered it, but its a bunch of work so I haven't gotten to it yet. :) At some point I will.

[r4ndy]

I recall Double Alpha or someone posted a issue with bullet feeders and the 750, I think it was a easy fix if I recall. You might want to google it and see.

Tyler, would it be too much of an issue to maybe label the plates on the bottom so one could keep them in order? Just a thought

Thanks. looks like DAA has a shorter powder bar, that would work for 9, but not for 223. I will see if I can get it to clear with the original bar in station 3. If not, I will take some pictures and measurements and hope someone could make a drop tube with a bit of an angle to clear the bar.

[j_dude77]

Just posted it. The ridge is moved in .5mm. running the collator without too much angle might just be the ticket to get those noses to drop.

Printing it out now. I will let you know how it does.

[TylerR]

Printing it out now. I will let you know how it does.

I just did the math, and based on what you said earlier there is only a 1.13mm difference between the nose and the base radius. That is a very tight margin.

[j_dude77]

Are the designs for these available to download somewhere? Thanks

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV

[j_dude77]

I just did the math, and based on what you said earlier there is only a 1.13mm difference between the nose and the base radius. That is a very tight margin.

Yeah. I might just have to file a notch just enough to get the nose to start. All 3 that I cast for .357 .44 and .45 are like that. I don't mind printing off more flipper plates, figured I would have to anyway.

[TylerR]

Yeah. I might just have to file a notch just enough to get the nose to start. All 3 that I cast for .357 .44 and .45 are like that. I don't mind printing off more flipper plates, figured I would have to anyway.

That's not a bad idea. On thing I am considering is to just create 10 slide plates that go from smallest to largest incremented by 1mm each. Then anyone can match a slide to any collator plate they create. Just not sure how you would determine which slide would match your collator plate, other then trial and error.

[j_dude77]

That's not a bad idea. On thing I am considering is to just create 10 slide plates that go from smallest to largest incremented by 1mm each. Then anyone can match a slide to any collator plate they create. Just not sure how you would determine which slide would match your collator plate, other then trial and error.

I think that is what people were doing with ammomike's. Thingiverse is full of plates.

[lablover]

That's not a bad idea. On thing I am considering is to just create 10 slide plates that go from smallest to largest incremented by 1mm each. Then anyone can match a slide to any collator plate they create. Just not sure how you would determine which slide would match your collator plate, other then trial and error.

that's a good idea. OR, you could do like this guy did and make one plate that is adjustable the entire range. When I did Ammo Mikes design last year I printed this guys bullet slider plate and it was brilliant. Maybe take a look at what he did and adjust accordingly . You might have to download his .stl to really see how it works. see link below.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921

[TylerR]

that's a good idea. OR, you could do like this guy did and make one plate that is adjustable the entire range. When I did Ammo Mikes design last year I printed this guys bullet slider plate and it was brilliant. Maybe take a look at what he did and adjust accordingly . You might have to download his .stl to really see how it works. see link below.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921

My road on this journey started with the mods version. I tried that adjustable plate and did not have much luck with it. I found the little c-clips kept popping out on me for one. Also had to do a bunch of sanding to get the parts to fit. I just started experimenting with multiple plates, and it's actually kind of cool. One thing I can do is create all 10 and label the ones I know match up to certain calibers. People can then adjust from there depending on rifle / pistol / bevel base / boat tail / semi wad cutter etc........ And you would still always have the ability to dial it in exactly with a set screw.

[lablover]

My road on this journey started with the mods version. I tried that adjustable plate and did not have much luck with it. I found the little c-clips kept popping out on me for one. Also had to do a bunch of sanding to get the parts to fit. I just started experimenting with multiple plates, and it's actually kind of cool. One thing I can do is create all 10 and label the ones I know match up to certain calibers. People can then adjust from there depending on rifle / pistol / bevel base / boat tail / semi wad cutter etc........ And you would still always have the ability to dial it in exactly with a set screw.

I like your idea better. Too bad it can’t be like the openscad file for collater plate...that would be crazy I know

[TylerR]

I like your idea better. Too bad it can’t be like the openscad file for collater plate...that would be crazy I know

I have thought about how cool that would be, but it is beyond my openscad skill to create such a thing. There are just way too many variables going on, especially once you bring in nose down feeding.

[lablover]

I have thought about how cool that would be, but it is beyond my openscad skill to create such a thing. There are just way too many variables going on, especially once you bring in nose down feeding.

I think you have done more than enough for the gang. Can’t thank you enough

[TylerR]

OK here we go. I just posted bullet nose up slides #1-#10. These basically run from .22 cal to .50 cal, with 1mm increments. Here are the match ups I have already done.

.223 - #2
.308 - #4
9mm - #5
45acp - #7


So using .45acp as an example, the #7 plate is right in the middle (2.25mm ridge). #8 would give you 1mm less ridge, #6 1mm more ridge. On my large pistol plate I measure about 1.25mm of ridge with the #8. So those 45 semi wad cutters would probably be better with the #8. Running bevel bases? Might want to go with the #6. If your running a bevel based semi wad cutter your SOL. :)

Its posted. Please play around with them and see what you think.

[TylerR]

I am willing to test anything. May just need a few different slides for different scenarios. I also cast 45 and 44 mag with large meplats, so would probably run into the same problem with those.

If that last one doesn't work, try the #8 plate I just posted.

[j_dude77]

If that last one doesn't work, try the #8 plate I just posted.

I tried the large plate you put up earlier. It didn't work out great. I will try the #8. Are those based off the large or small? Seems that bullet would need the small flipper with the width of the large at the beginning. Ok. I have to laugh. I just pulled up your #8 plate and compared it to my design. It is pretty much the same, except I added extra shelf going towards the ramp.

[TylerR]

I tried the large plate you put up earlier. It didn't work out great. I will try the #8. Are those based off the large or small? Seems that bullet would need the small flipper with the width of the large at the beginning. Ok. I have to laugh. I just pulled up your #8 plate and compared it to my design. It is pretty much the same, except I added extra shelf going towards the ramp.

too funny. Can you show me a pic?

[j_dude77]

too funny. Can you show me a pic?

The yellow is me, the green you on the first one. It's opposite on the second.


270175270176270177

[TylerR]

The yellow is me, the green you on the first one. It's opposite on the second.


Very similar. One of the major modifications I made from the original AM plates, was to make the ridge follow along the collator plate axis perfectly. The circular arc matches the arc of the collator. So the distance to the edge of the ridge is a constant as the bullet rides along it. The original plates were linear, and the distance varied along the direction of travel.

[TylerR]

I re-posted the slides. They are all labeled now.

[j_dude77]

Very similar. One of the major modifications I made from the original AM plates, was to make the ridge follow along the collator plate axis perfectly. The circular arc matches the arc of the collator. So the distance to the edge of the ridge is a constant as the bullet rides along it. The original plates were linear, and the distance varied along the direction of travel.

I saw that with the ridge. I was not sure of the arc, so tried to copy it as best I could. Any chance of doing the same with the small plates?

[lablover]

I re-posted the slides. They are all labeled now.

Thanks buddy

[djinnpb]

Been watching this since the start and having had an AM one, printed the base over the weekend and really anxious to try the larger capacity and all the plates. Really appreciate all the work here. I print mostly PETG and even calibrated the ramps never slide in easily without a little sanding or heat gun action. That overture digital blue is really catching my eye though.

probably will use mostly for brass and pistol bullets. Had a horrible time trying to get 247gr 300blk to work and the taller 308 plate and flip from Ruebarb saved me (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3732253) actually worked great in the original AM base. He provided to the f3d file so I modified to the larger plate_d so pretty anxious to print and test it.. But for the slide with deep ramp down, anyone have the wider one that is similar to Ruebarb's for long bullets? Modifying the flip ramp for the longer width is getting the best of my f3d skills.

[TylerR]

I saw that with the ridge. I was not sure of the arc, so tried to copy it as best I could. Any chance of doing the same with the small plates?

Not sure I am following what you are looking for. Doing what with the smaller plates?

[TylerR]

Been watching this since the start and having had an AM one, printed the base over the weekend and really anxious to try the larger capacity and all the plates. Really appreciate all the work here. I print mostly PETG and even calibrated the ramps never slide in easily without a little sanding or heat gun action. That overture digital blue is really catching my eye though.

probably will use mostly for brass and pistol bullets. Had a horrible time trying to get 247gr 300blk to work and the taller 308 plate and flip from Ruebarb saved me (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3732253) actually worked great in the original AM base. He provided to the f3d file so I modified to the larger plate_d so pretty anxious to print and test it.. But for the slide with deep ramp down, anyone have the wider one that is similar to Ruebarb's for long bullets? Modifying the flip ramp for the longer width is getting the best of my f3d skills.

That is a very interesting plate he designed there. I assume the issue was that the 18mm tall original collator plate was not tall enough to prevent the bullet from just sliding out when it hit the ramp?

[j_dude77]

Very similar. One of the major modifications I made from the original AM plates, was to make the ridge follow along the collator plate axis perfectly. The circular arc matches the arc of the collator. So the distance to the edge of the ridge is a constant as the bullet rides along it. The original plates were linear, and the distance varied along the direction of travel.

I am going to try your #8 today. Also going to print the others and try them with other cast bullets I have. I will let you know what combos work out. Might be able to add to the list you posted earlier.

[j_dude77]

Not sure I am following what you are looking for. Doing what with the smaller plates?

Brainfart. I just now realized that the original large and small are already in that group with #1-10. Please disregard.

[TylerR]

Brainfart. I just now realized that the original large and small are already in that group with #1-10. Please disregard.

No worries. Please let us know any combinations that work. I am liking GWS's idea of putting together a spreadsheet that people could refer to as far as what the plates are and which combinations work for certain caibers/bullets. The spreadsheet could grow over time as people report back what's working for them.

[j_dude77]

TylerR,

I remember you asked about 223 plate recommendations. I did some further testing with the 223 last night. I noticed that the slides on the plate would hold bullets instead of sliding them back down. May want to make a plate without the slides and add ridges. I know you said you extended the ridges closer to the edge. Is that in 2.0.6 or is there another version. I am willing to print one up and give it a try.

[djinnpb]

That is a very interesting plate he designed there. I assume the issue was that the 18mm tall original collator plate was not tall enough to prevent the bullet from just sliding out when it hit the ramp?

the plate is about the 18mm excluding the lip. That deep dish flip tray combo (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547193) worked the magic for the longer flat base flat nose subs

[TylerR]

TylerR,

I remember you asked about 223 plate recommendations. I did some further testing with the 223 last night. I noticed that the slides on the plate would hold bullets instead of sliding them back down. May want to make a plate without the slides and add ridges. I know you said you extended the ridges closer to the edge. Is that in 2.0.6 or is there another version. I am willing to print one up and give it a try.

v2.0.7. Just posted it for you.

[TylerR]

the plate is about the 18mm excluding the lip. That deep dish flip tray combo (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547193) worked the magic for the longer flat base flat nose subs

Like I said, I love the concept. I could probably adapt his stl pretty quickly to my base. Are you using the wire version or the one with the built in ramp? Just curious if the ramp really has to be that steep to function, or if would work with a ramp that went from the "deep dish" up to the stock ramp.

[j_dude77]

v2.0.7. Just posted it for you.

Thanks TylerR. Will get one going and post a video.

[lablover]

Any way we can get the .45 open end down set up changed just a tiny bit? For the drop chute you have 2 pieces that screw together to make the chute. Any way to get the chute to not be square to the plate and Not sure it’s even possible and I know why you did it the way you did but I think the chute more at a angle would help a little in my case. If not then I can just move the whole feeder back more so not so much of a angle in the spring.

[TylerR]

Any way we can get the .45 open end down set up changed just a tiny bit? For the drop chute you have 2 pieces that screw together to make the chute. Any way to get the chute to not be square to the plate and Not sure it’s even possible and I know why you did it the way you did but I think the chute more at a angle would help a little in my case. If not then I can just move the whole feeder back more so not so much of a angle in the spring.

Great question. The short answer is no. :)
My original design attempted to use a funnel adapter that had angle to it exactly like the base down case feed funnel. No matter how many iterations I came up with, the case mouth edge would catch on the side as it went through and flip sideways getting stuck. You have no idea how hard it was just to get the straight funnel adapter reliable. Empty cases do not want to fall base up, and will do everything they possibly can to flip around the other way. I spent easily a week and a half and about 30 prints just on this one issue.

[lablover]

Great question. The short answer is no. :)
My original design attempted to use a funnel adapter that had angle to it exactly like the base down case feed funnel. No matter how many iterations I came up with, the case mouth edge would catch on the side as it went through and flip sideways getting stuck. You have no idea how hard it was just to get the straight funnel adapter reliable. Empty cases do not want to fall base up, and will do everything they possibly can to flip around the other way. I spent easily a week and a half and about 30 prints just on this one issue.

Hahahaha. Love the response!
I figured there was a good reason. I do appreciate the honest answer........NO. BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

that was absolutely hilarious.
Thanks Buddy

[TylerR]

Hahahaha. Love the response!
I figured there was a good reason. I do appreciate the honest answer........NO. BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

that was absolutely hilarious.
Thanks Buddy

I thought you would like that. :)

So after responding I remembered, you know what? I have that final iteration of the angled adapter just sitting there in 3d cad. Why not post it. So I did. Here is the deal. It will be fairly reliable with large .45 cases (you will get occasional jams). Anything smaller then that and you will get jams. So its a use at your own risk kind of thing.

Actually just posted the other version I designed and tested as well. The angled cone.

[lablover]

I thought you would like that. :)

So after responding I remembered, you know what? I have that final iteration of the angled adapter just sitting there in 3d cad. Why not post it. So I did. Here is the deal. It will be fairly reliable with large .45 cases (you will get occasional jams). Anything smaller then that and you will get jams. So its a use at your own risk kind of thing.

Actually just posted the other version I designed and tested as well. The angled cone.

Cool, thanks a million!
I’ll give it a try. Printers are tied up right now with bullet feeder dies...oh boy

You would think with the amount of money we spend on firearms, reloading etc a simple $50.00 die would be easy to buy....but nooooooooo

[TylerR]

Cool, thanks a million!
I’ll give it a try. Printers are tied up right now with bullet feeder dies...oh boy

Oh yeah? I would love to see if they work for you. Which ones are you printing?

[lablover]

Oh yeah? I would love to see if they work for you. Which ones are you printing?

This one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508115

I tried another different one and it’s a good design but for the life of me can’t figure a way to get the light sensor tube to fit on it. For the one that I posted the link too I’m trying to print a small adaptor to attach the drop tube to the die. I’m sure it’s something you could do easily. Will find out in a few minutes when it’s done.

They do work, Karl Bibb is making them with good luck. Broke down several months ago and bought one from him for my .32 acp and works perfect.

Got some little ball bearings on the way as well. If ya need some let me know

[j_dude77]

Cool, thanks a million!
I’ll give it a try. Printers are tied up right now with bullet feeder dies...oh boy

You would think with the amount of money we spend on firearms, reloading etc a simple $50.00 die would be easy to buy....but nooooooooo

Yep. A few weeks ago, saw they had all in stock. So I picked up one of each.

[djinnpb]

Like I said, I love the concept. I could probably adapt his stl pretty quickly to my base. Are you using the wire version or the one with the built in ramp? Just curious if the ramp really has to be that steep to function, or if would work with a ramp that went from the "deep dish" up to the stock ramp.

I've been using the ramp and it seemed to work a lot better than the wire one. Though the arc is way less on the AM base.. I'll try a print without the ramp by scaling the width in cura to match the ramp space and see how it does. Definitely will try it and see for you though.

[djinnpb]

This one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508115

I tried another different one and it’s a good design but for the life of me can’t figure a way to get the light sensor tube to fit on it. For the one that I posted the link too I’m trying to print a small adaptor to attach the drop tube to the die. I’m sure it’s something you could do easily. Will find out in a few minutes when it’s done.

They do work, Karl Bibb is making them with good luck. Broke down several months ago and bought one from him for my .32 acp and works perfect.

Got some little ball bearings on the way as well. If ya need some let me know

I printed the 9mm (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4257070) . Ended up modifying it so a tube could fit in. it had a adapter in there but it was way too short so I modified it to have the same hole as the 45acp (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4317058) and made a bushing that slips in either to adapt the tube. The 45acp one did require print thin walls (check via prepare before making spagetti like I did) because I use hole expansion and I ended up printing the die body inner hole bigger to get the clearance for the ball to work right. 9mm other than the adapter shallow top.. it was gtg. I'll get the stls up somewhere if anyone wants to try them.

[TylerR]

This one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508115

I tried another different one and it’s a good design but for the life of me can’t figure a way to get the light sensor tube to fit on it. For the one that I posted the link too I’m trying to print a small adaptor to attach the drop tube to the die. I’m sure it’s something you could do easily. Will find out in a few minutes when it’s done.

They do work, Karl Bibb is making them with good luck. Broke down several months ago and bought one from him for my .32 acp and works perfect.

Got some little ball bearings on the way as well. If ya need some let me know

Man you guys just keep sending me down new rabbit holes. lol. I just looked at that link, and then did a general search on thingiverse for feeder dies. Unfortunately it looks like they are all by different designers.
I already have a number of parts that adapt to the drop tubes, so I could definitely create one. Just have to examine the stl file and see what the dimensions are. I would love to not have to buy any more at $50 each, since I still need 9mm, .223, and .308 at least.

[TylerR]

I've been using the ramp and it seemed to work a lot better than the wire one. Though the arc is way less on the AM base.. I'll try a print without the ramp by scaling the width in cura to match the ramp space and see how it does. Definitely will try it and see for you though.

Cool. I loaded up his stl file and examined it. There is a little going on there but not too bad to recreate. I do wonder if the ramp needs to be as steep as he has it. I will play around with it.

[TylerR]

I printed the 9mm (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4257070) . Ended up modifying it so a tube could fit in. it had a adapter in there but it was way too short so I modified it to have the same hole as the 45acp (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4317058) and made a bushing that slips in either to adapt the tube. The 45acp one did require print thin walls (check via prepare before making spagetti like I did) because I use hole expansion and I ended up printing the die body inner hole bigger to get the clearance for the ball to work right. 9mm other than the adapter shallow top.. it was gtg. I'll get the stls up somewhere if anyone wants to try them.

I would be interested in the stl's

[TylerR]

the plate is about the 18mm excluding the lip. That deep dish flip tray combo (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547193) worked the magic for the longer flat base flat nose subs

Can you give more detail on what exactly was failing when you tried to use the standard AM collator plate and slide? I am just curious how it was going bad.

[djinnpb]

I would be interested in the stl's

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RqdH8PhHStytrSBf_kjFPdUive91khkm?usp=sharing

threw some pics in also of the spacer and the depth change on the 9mm. It fits 1/2 pex perfectly. I use the tom penn light tubes currently. Haven't printed yours yet but if they're the same at the bottom it'll fit. if not I can modify and fix. Will print a 10mm tube tonight to check.

[lablover]

Man you guys just keep sending me down new rabbit holes. lol. I just looked at that link, and then did a general search on thingiverse for feeder dies. Unfortunately it looks like they are all by different designers.
I already have a number of parts that adapt to the drop tubes, so I could definitely create one. Just have to examine the stl file and see what the dimensions are. I would love to not have to buy any more at $50 each, since I still need 9mm, .223, and .308 at least.

sounds like the 3 I need as well.
Die came out great and first adapter was a smidge too small. round 2 printing on the adapter. GO DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE
HAHAHAHHA

[djinnpb]

Can you give more detail on what exactly was failing when you tried to use the standard AM collator plate and slide? I am just curious how it was going bad.

I think I was trying the tom penn adjustable ones with regular 308 plates. When I moved to the taller lipped plate from Ruebarb I think I used his flipper. I'll test both again (once it worked I stayed with what variables were gtg)

[TylerR]

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RqdH8PhHStytrSBf_kjFPdUive91khkm?usp=sharing

threw some pics in also of the spacer and the depth change on the 9mm. It fits 1/2 pex perfectly. I use the tom penn light tubes currently. Haven't printed yours yet but if they're the same at the bottom it'll fit. if not I can modify and fix. Will print a 10mm tube tonight to check.

Cool, thank you. I grabbed them and will check em out. My drop tubes are designed to interface directly on to the DAA feeder dies, which is the same as Tom's. So anything else needs an adapter. They have an inner diameter of 16.62mm.

[lablover]

Tyler

Thanks for the updated funnels. I'll use at my risk.
Djinn, thanks for the google drive link with files. Should add another rabbit hole for all of us to go down

[GWS]

I finally got my horizontal bullet feeders' mount welded and installed. Made a short video showing the thing installed. I figure I can also 3d print a few plastic holders for other things to hang around too....no sense wasting a perfectly good hanging rod.;) might could mount a bracket for a powder measure too....but I'd probably have my nephew weld one, to hang down from it.


https://youtu.be/WI_Ht0v2IOI

https://i.postimg.cc/PxMQwZfY/IMG-3617.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/13gBjfM1/IMG-3614.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/wMTccv3P/IMG-3616.jpg

[TylerR]

I finally got my horizontal bullet feeders' mount welded and installed. Made a short video showing the thing installed. I figure I can also 3d print a few plastic holders for other things to hang around too....no sense wasting a perfectly good hanging rod.;) might could mount a bracket for a powder measure too....but I'd probably have my nephew weld one, to hang down from it.

Love it! You have a hell of a setup there.

[GWS]

This was the sketch he built it by that I posted 16 days ago!....Took him long enough....impatient is my middle name.;)
https://i.postimg.cc/DwntBR7n/BF-mount-Model.jpg

Tyler do you realize how many pages this crazy group has added on this thread in 16 days? ....... they may erase us for band-width hogging.....:)

My headless mount needs another base printed....time to do your upsized version! my P.C. 7 needs a rifle bullet and a case feeder.......fun! Since I have the big bed printer, I'm thinking about a bigger case feeder still......don't worry.....I'll only bug you on that if I get in big trouble.

BTW, all that steel tube only cost me one 20 dollar bill.....people ought to learn to weld......if I wasn't so damned old I would.....

[lablover]

GWS, THAT LOOKS EPIC,

Gives me some ideas for my basement reloading room...hahaha. Wife’s gonna be happy now!

Now to harbor freight for a welder. ��

[GWS]

Know what's neatest? It's steel.....that mean strong magnets stick to it......shucks, you could even stick your load sheet up where you can see it or a clip board...or tools.....wheels turning...anybody got any other nifty ideas for what I could hang there?

One big problem! the collators are too high for this short person.... can't see inside.......guess I need to make a pull out step under the bench......geeze....always something....

Lablover: Curious....wife happiness....how does this idea affect that? ;) My setup is in my garage that never sees a car....the bench originally looked like garbage.....I rebuilt a motorcycle motor on it....THAT effected my wife negatively for sure. Remodeling the bench with stained wood and Formica top, and moving my reloading there DID help there, I admit......:)

[Gork]

Cool, thanks a million!
I’ll give it a try. Printers are tied up right now with bullet feeder dies...oh boy

You would think with the amount of money we spend on firearms, reloading etc a simple $50.00 die would be easy to buy....but nooooooooo

I have got Ammo Mike's wadcutter die (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2885660) working well. Took a bit of mucking about but that is half the fun. Feeding 148gn button nose, collated with the original collator using the 2 part slide from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921 .

270253
270254

Ugly, but it works. Using different shapes for the tilting piece should let you feed anything you want. The lump of lead is only there until I can find some small springs but works with a stack of 30 or so projectiles.

[Michael303]

Printing out new side walls for my feeder with a built-in electronics box here in blue. I ordered the 8rpm McMaster motor and it was slightly different from the 12rpm version so the electronics box I designed to attach to the motor didn't work. You can see the test piece I printed out in grey up front with the power plug and speed controller installed. 9 hours in and should be done in the next 15 min hopefully. Printed at 0.15mm layer height.

https://i.imgur.com/PZxOizI.jpg?1

I also added some little knobs to my plate to agitate the bullets. I found the last few would just sit at the bottom of the plate sliding right over the top of the holes.

https://i.imgur.com/das3n1U.jpg?1

[GWS]

Michael: So have you tried it? Did it cure the problem? Certainly easier than drilling and epoxying a steel rod like I did. What caliber is the grey plate for?

The boxes both look nice.....I wish I'd thought to round the corners of mine.....but then I would have had to print it a little bigger.....oh well.

[Michael303]

I haven't tried it yet but I'll try to post an update once it's reassembled. The plate is 9mm.

[lablover]

Know what's neatest? It's steel.....that mean strong magnets stick to it......shucks, you could even stick your load sheet up where you can see it or a clip board...or tools.....wheels turning...anybody got any other nifty ideas for what I could hang there?

One big problem! the collators are too high for this short person.... can't see inside.......guess I need to make a pull out step under the bench......geeze....always something....

Lablover: Curious....wife happiness....how does this idea affect that? ;) My setup is in my garage that never sees a car....the bench originally looked like garbage.....I rebuilt a motorcycle motor on it....THAT effected my wife negatively for sure. Remodeling the bench with stained wood and Formica top, and moving my reloading there DID help there, I admit......:)

Wife happiness! Few years back I refinished the entire basement, bar fireplace etc. my reloading room was on the main floor in a spare bedroom. Long story short her elderly father came to live with us and stole my spare room for reloading. I headed to the finished basement! Being a cabinet maker I went way overboard. Maple tops and new cabinets now taking up a good 1/3 of the basement now. And it grows every day....hahahahaha. Keeping it clean. Ha! She asked once if she could help get me organized. I said no thank you I already know where everything is.
Btw, she got a new kitchen out of the deal.

[RedlegEd]

Wife happiness! ....
Btw, she got a new kitchen out of the deal.

Yep, new kitchen will do it every time!
Ed

[GWS]

I got moved out of my original loading room into the garage, when my wife became a quilter.....yeah you guessed it. Reloading room+storage room = sewing room!......at least I kept a corner of it where my 3D printer ended up. I still haven't finished her kitchen though....this winter, barring more medical problems, that'll be finished......

[Fil131]

Hate to say it but I have a 223 collator plate stuck on my hex shaft. Thinking of getting rid of hex and drilling the motor shaft.

It's not an easy chore at all to remove the collator plates when they get stuck.

I was running the motor at a very slow speed because if I run very fast at all and the LED tube fills up and a couple or few drop together they would jam up at the top of the LED tube.

[TylerR]

Hate to say it but I have a 223 collator plate stuck on my hex shaft. Thinking of getting rid of hex and drilling the motor shaft.

It's not an easy chore at all to remove the collator plates when they get stuck.

I was running the motor at a very slow speed because if I run very fast at all and the LED tube fills up and a couple or few drop together they would jam up at the top of the LED tube.

Did you re-print the 6mm drop tube I posted?

[Fil131]

Did you re-print the 6mm drop tube I posted?

I hadn't printed any new files at all yet, trying to use mostly what I have now and setup and adjust the RL1100 press

Also having the bullet feeder attached to the case feeder and having movement caused me to lose some projectiles as I worked the handle. It doesn't help that I have it all temporarily mounted to a coffee table as I'm coming up with a plan for a proper strong bench in the garage.

Other than that it worked, I only mentioned using it very slow as to say that I wasn't running it fast and the hex still got stuck.

I was wanting to switch from loading 223 to 9mm and can't yet until I get the plate off.

[TylerR]

I hadn't printed any new files at all yet, trying to use mostly what I have now and setup and adjust the RL1100 press

Also having the bullet feeder attached to the case feeder and having movement caused me to lose some projectiles as I worked the handle. Also doesn't help that I have it all temporarily mounted to a coffee table as I'm coming up with a plan for a proper strong bench in the garage.

Other than that it worked, I only mentioned using it very slow as to say that I wasn't running it fast and the hex still got stuck.

I was wanting to switch from loading 223 to 9mm and can't yet until I get the plate off.

Yeah that's pretty annoying. And this is a plate that had a nice tight fit on the hex adapter?

[Fil131]

Yeah that's pretty annoying. And this is a plate that had a nice tight fit on the hex adapter?

It is, it had the smaller size. Not sure why I'm having these issues and the other person who chimed in isn't but I'm at a loss. I've tried prying and the damned thing is really on there haha. If I could lock up the motor and turn the plate I'm sure it'd work but turning the collator turns the motor shaft as well.

I'm even using PETG which from what I've read is stronger than PLA which I believe is what the rest of you guys are using?

[lablover]

It is, it had the smaller size. Not sure why I'm having these issues and the other person who chimed in isn't but I'm at a loss. I've tried prying and the damned thing is really on there haha. If I could lock up the motor and turn the plate I'm sure it'd work but turning the collator turns the motor shaft as well.

I'm even using PETG which from what I've read is stronger than PLA which I believe is what the rest of you guys are using?

I’m the other guy who chimed in. No issues on my end. Try turning the plate the opposite direction just a tiny bit that might break it free.

That’s why I like pla for the plates..it’s not super strong and will break before it breaks your motor

[Fil131]

Did you re-print the 6mm drop tube I posted?


I hadn't printed any new files at all yet, trying to use mostly what I have now and setup and adjust the RL1100 press

Also having the bullet feeder attached to the case feeder and having movement caused me to lose some projectiles as I worked the handle. It doesn't help that I have it all temporarily mounted to a coffee table as I'm coming up with a plan for a proper strong bench in the garage.

Other than that it worked, I only mentioned using it very slow as to say that I wasn't running it fast and the hex still got stuck.

I was wanting to switch from loading 223 to 9mm and can't yet until I get the plate off.


Yeah that's pretty annoying. And this is a plate that had a nice tight fit on the hex adapter?


It is, it had the smaller size. Not sure why I'm having these issues and the other person who chimed in isn't but I'm at a loss. I've tried prying and the damned thing is really on there haha. If I could lock up the motor and turn the plate I'm sure it'd work but turning the collator turns the motor shaft as well.

I'm even using PETG which from what I've read is stronger than PLA which I believe is what the rest of you guys are using?

Finally got the collator plate off. I think the 223 plate is done for tho sadly well it'll still work but guaranteed to get stuck again. At least they only cost a little over $7 each. I'll just keep using them until a get a roll pin. Which roll pin do you guys use? I need to shift gears and switch to that instead of hex.

[Fil131]

I’m the other guy who chimed in. No issues on my end. Try turning the plate the opposite direction just a tiny bit that might break it free.

That’s why I like pla for the plates..it’s not super strong and will break before it breaks your motor

No dice, the motor was turning with the plate in either direction. I finally pried it up enough to get an allen in there and loosen the allen screws. Then I used pliers to grip the hex adaptor and twist it out. I hate to turn my back to this method but I'd like to be able to reload rather than to tinker with something that can easily be solved by going to the original design which I don't think anyone has had issues with.

[TylerR]

No dice, the motor was turning with the plate in either direction. I finally pried it up enough to get an allen in there and loosen the allen screws. Then I used pliers to grip the hex adaptor and twist it out. I hate to turn my back to this method but I'd like to be able to reload rather than to tinker with something that can easily be solved by going to the original design which I don't think anyone has had issues with.

I do wonder if it is the PETG. I have never used it before so no personal experience.

[Fil131]

I do wonder if it is the PETG. I have never used it before so no personal experience.

Possibly, I have one spool of PLA. May give it a go but as of now as stated I'm focusing on reloading more than 3d printing, especially because I do have a working system just has a few kinks but what doesn't haha. All part of the learning process.

[GWS]

Possibly, I have one spool of PLA. May give it a go but as of now as stated I'm focusing on reloading more than 3d printing, especially because I do have a working system just has a few kinks but what doesn't haha. All part of the learning process.

Focusing on reloading? What's that? ;) I've got so many projects to build, I haven't done diddlely on reloading lately.

I had my hex stick on my PLA rotating plate, but I just manually counter rotated it and it broke loose just fine and came right off......in fact it repeated maybe three times.....then it quit doing that. Since you can't see anything, it's hard to see why, but if it happens again, I think I will paste wax the interior of the hex.

[TylerR]

Just posted v1.0.8

- Added 7 and 11 mm drop tubes.
- Added Nose Down slides 1-10 and Nose Up slides 1-10
- Collator Generator v2.0.7

[Lakehouse2012]

I'm starting to put parts together tonight, looking at Tyler's pics, I'm confused. The bullet drop tube is mounted in different ports and I dont know why each is a choice... Help?

Red arrows, probably a simple explanation once I hear it...

Thanks!

270297

[TylerR]

I'm starting to put parts together tonight, looking at Tyler's pics, I'm confused. The bullet drop tube is mounted in different ports and I dont know why each is a choice... Help?

Red arrows, probably a simple explanation once I hear it...

Thanks!


I got ya covered man. The hole on the left is the main drop hole built in to the feeder body. It is used for bullet nose up feeding. The hole on the right, which is part of the slide plate, is for nose down bullet feeding. When running nose down, you insert the "Drop_Hole_Plug" in to the main drop hole. Both the main hole, and the hole on the slide plate need to be fitted with a standard "Drop_Hole_Adapter" with screws.

[lablover]

Got the 223 plate Tyler posted. Will give a testing tomorrow. Also got the 223 bullet feeder done and it drops bullets but I can’t get it to only drop one at a time, like to do 2 or more. I think I need to figure where wnd what hole to use the bearings in. Anyone have experience with this?

Worst case I’ll order a DAA die...waaaaaaaaaaa


EDIT, figured it out, printed feeder die for 223 works like a champ. Single bullet every handle pull...OUTSTANDING!

[Fil131]

Got the 223 plate Tyler posted. Will give a testing tomorrow. Also got the 223 bullet feeder done and it drops bullets but I can’t get it to only drop one at a time, like to do 2 or more. I think I need to figure where wnd what hole to use the bearings in. Anyone have experience with this?

Worst case I’ll order a DAA die...waaaaaaaaaaa

I went with the DAA dies just to be able to start reloading. Just have to make sure they “collapse” and do not stay raised when case is no longer raising the die insert, either by weight or springs as many designs have. Also helps if your press is very sturdily mounted with as little movement as possible during operation. Also if the one you are using has higher and lower levels for the bearings it’ll depend on the size or grain of projectiles you’re using.

[j_dude77]

Hate to say it but I have a 223 collator plate stuck on my hex shaft. Thinking of getting rid of hex and drilling the motor shaft.

It's not an easy chore at all to remove the collator plates when they get stuck.

I was running the motor at a very slow speed because if I run very fast at all and the LED tube fills up and a couple or few drop together they would jam up at the top of the LED tube.

I had the same problem with the hex shaft. What I had to do was turn a bit and pull up and kept doing that until it popped off.

[AmmoMike83]

Thingiverse:
This Thing is currently under moderation: due to a Notice of Claimed Intellectual Property Infringement from Alpha Dynamics. Please contact Legal@makerbot.com for a copy of this Notice.
Files and images for this Thing are currently unavailable.

Click here for download (https://www.kfz-jacobi.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/openBulletFeeder.zip)

:)

[TylerR]

Click here for download (https://www.kfz-jacobi.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/openBulletFeeder.zip)

:)

He's back! :)

[GWS]

Super Cool! Maybe this is a good Omen......like maybe the gun control lovers will lose in November and maybe my .223 plate will finish without issue this morning......been going all night.;)

I printed it without slots and with raised ribs just for testing at the small size. I did my rampless design for APP .45 sizing for others.....since I don't actually have a lead furnace for casting or sizing yet. But I do need a .223 collator bad. :) This one's for me.

If it works at the small size it'll work at the big size. That plate maker is amazing.....but learning OpenScad is daunting for an old guy like me....trying. Thanks AmmoMike and TylerR too for all you've done.

[lablover]

I went with the DAA dies just to be able to start reloading. Just have to make sure they “collapse” and do not stay raised when case is no longer raising the die insert, either by weight or springs as many designs have. Also helps if your press is very sturdily mounted with as little movement as possible during operation. Also if the one you are using has higher and lower levels for the bearings it’ll depend on the size or grain of projectiles you’re using.

Yea, the bearing location was the key. His model only uses the weight of the bullet column to keep it down. Might try to incorporate a spring or something. I’d love to see a model which is specific to the Tyler drop tubes.

The 223 plate worked well with the ridges, the last few bullets in the bowl still just ride the top of the plate at the bottom. The ridges do not disturb them enough to move them correctly. It’s kind of funny, the bullets look like little boats riding the wave.

[lablover]

I had the same problem with the hex shaft. What I had to do was turn a bit and pull up and kept doing that until it popped off.

I wonder why I’m not having any issues yet with the hex shaft? I wonder if it’s because I added a thin washer between the plate and bowl? I put it on the plate circling the hex hole. Raises the plate just a tiny bit.

[lablover]

Super Cool! Maybe this is a good Omen......like maybe the gun control lovers will lose in November and maybe my .223 plate will finish without issue this morning......been going all night.;)

I printed it without slots and with raised ribs just for testing at the small size. I did my rampless design for APP .45 sizing for others.....since I don't actually have a lead furnace for casting or sizing yet. But I do need a .223 collator bad. :) This one's for me.

If it works at the small size it'll work at the big size. That plate maker is amazing.....but learning OpenScad is daunting for an old guy like me....trying. Thanks AmmoMike and TylerR too for all you've done.

Small world, I got home from my pistol league last night and my 223 plate was finished. Started another and it should be done shortly. Had to try he 223 last night with the printed bullet feeder die and was very happy with the results

[GWS]

I was afraid of that. What about making an ^ shape just at the end between the holes about 20mm high and 20mm deep, sorta like a mountain chain.;) For mine I'm going to just do the vertical steel rod trick I did on my last green .45 nose down one for bullet sizing. Probably won't reprint my .223 for another 12 hours. Too bad I didn't know you were printing it. Oh well. At least on this one I've learned how to reduce stringing.

[lablover]

I was afraid of that. What about making an ^ shape just at the end between the holes about 20mm high and 20mm deep, sorta like a mountain chain.;) For mine I'm going to just do the vertical steel rod trick I did on my last green .45 nose down one for bullet sizing. Probably won't reprint my .223 for another 12 hours. Too bad I didn't know you were printing it. Oh well. At least on this one I've learned how to reduce stringing.

I like the rod trick, might do that to my 223 plate. Those slick little 223 bullets are like little torpedoes...hahahaha

All this printing I may have to get more filament. Whew

[TylerR]

Super Cool! Maybe this is a good Omen......like maybe the gun control lovers will lose in November and maybe my .223 plate will finish without issue this morning......been going all night.;)

I printed it without slots and with raised ribs just for testing at the small size. I did my rampless design for APP .45 sizing for others.....since I don't actually have a lead furnace for casting or sizing yet. But I do need a .223 collator bad. :) This one's for me.

If it works at the small size it'll work at the big size. That plate maker is amazing.....but learning OpenScad is daunting for an old guy like me....trying. Thanks AmmoMike and TylerR too for all you've done.

We can only hope! I got my fingers crossed.

So you are saying the ribs worked well for bullets?

[TylerR]

Yea, the bearing location was the key. His model only uses the weight of the bullet column to keep it down. Might try to incorporate a spring or something. I’d love to see a model which is specific to the Tyler drop tubes.

The 223 plate worked well with the ridges, the last few bullets in the bowl still just ride the top of the plate at the bottom. The ridges do not disturb them enough to move them correctly. It’s kind of funny, the bullets look like little boats riding the wave.

I can make the ribs bigger if we need to. I could also look in to adding a nub at the outside edge like one of the other guys did. That would function similar to the wire rod GWS is using. For me personally, I am not so concerned about the last few bullets hanging around. I never really run the collator completely empty anyway.

[djinnpb]

Printing the small pistol base down plate anyone tried that with 300blk brass? Wondering if it will work for that or if I need to generate one that is a touch taller.

[lablover]

I can make the ribs bigger if we need to. I could also look in to adding a nub at the outside edge like one of the other guys did. That would function similar to the wire rod GWS is using. For me personally, I am not so concerned about the last few bullets hanging around. I never really run the collator completely empty anyway.

I have the same train of thought as you do, I never run it dry and takes a few seconds to reach inside and grab em if need be. I don't know if we need to recreate the wheel

[TylerR]

Printing the small pistol base down plate anyone tried that with 300blk brass? Wondering if it will work for that or if I need to generate one that is a touch taller.

If you give me a bit I can test it.

Nope. Does not work. I think you want the plate to be about 1/3 the height of the brass. So probably 11-12mm would work. Have not tried it myself.

[GWS]

https://i.postimg.cc/nLnmYqfV/IMG-3619.jpg

This print was a learning experience! I'm glad I printed the small one first!
I used the new PLA Pro (same as the blue stuff you guys have been raving about)
The directions that came with it suggested some things to minimize stringing....so far I've only dropped the nozzle temp from 210 to 200 and it helped alot. I used 18% infill, 4 walls, 3 top and bottom solid layers.

Below: I also decided to try "ironing".....maybe it works better on a simple flat service......it ironed before the ridges started and that ironing took 2 hours passing between each spot a ridge was going to print after the ironing! Increased printing from 12 hrs to 14 hrs....not worth it for this application. IdeaMaker's time prediction of 12 hours obviously did not consider ironing.
https://i.postimg.cc/QttWvsMR/IMG-3616.jpg
Below: Ironing really caused more trouble than it was worth....it messed up the clean holes which now have to be cleaned up.
https://i.postimg.cc/C5nnLNk7/IMG-3618.jpg
Below: From a distance it looks pretty good.....
https://i.postimg.cc/ydbSH5gW/IMG-3623.jpg
Below: Up close it's work I would not have had to do.......live and learn....now I know.
https://i.postimg.cc/YS8WXjt6/IMG-3621.jpg

TylerR: I won't be able to test it until tonight, but from what lablover says it'll work, just not a good fast empty like my Hornady Mod.....but I'm not through...;) I know you don't think it's important....but it's the principle.;-) I think the ridges might work better every other hole and instead of half moon a right triangle with the vertical going first to knock the bullets silly (or a square). I don't like trains going nowhere, nor soldiers in formation doing nothing at the bottom of my collator. We will get this.

What I do like? The rest of it....and the OpenScad file that made it.....wonderful!

One more thought......maybe the ridges if you use them at all would be better just 1 inch long around the edge and way fewer. I guess I don't see the value in moving bullets (or cases) upward to possibly have them interfere with the important stuff going on at the top....and more things to have to knock back to the bottom. I would prefer to have the bullets just agitate around the bottom. Yours thoughts?

[TylerR]

TylerR: I won't be able to test it until tonight, but from what lablover says it'll work, just not a good fast empty like my Hornady Mod.....but I'm not through...;) I know you don't think it's important....but it's the principle.;-) I think the ridges might work better every other hole and instead of half moon a right triangle with the vertical going first to knock the bullets silly (or a square). I don't like trains going nowhere, nor soldiers in formation doing nothing at the bottom of my collator. We will get this.

What I do like? The rest of it....and the OpenScad file that made it.....wonderful!

One more thought......maybe the ridges if you use them at all would be better just 1 inch long around the edge and way fewer. I guess I don't see the value in moving bullets (or cases) upward to possibly have them interfere with the important stuff going on at the top....and more things to have to knock back to the bottom. I would prefer to have the bullets just agitate around the bottom. Yours thoughts?

Those ridges look very rough.

I am open to making changes. Keep in mind I created these ridges for brass feeding, not bullets. I just modeled it after my dillon plates with ridges. I could change it from a half cylinder to rectangular, and make them taller. We can definitely modify them to only come halfway up. What is the advantage of having them every other hole?

[TylerR]

TylerR: I won't be able to test it until tonight, but from what lablover says it'll work, just not a good fast empty like my Hornady Mod.....but I'm not through...;) I know you don't think it's important....but it's the principle.;-)

Not sure I am following this one. Not as fast because of jamming in the top of the drop tube? Or some other reason.

[lablover]

I’ll get pics of my plate in a little bit. Aftermarket Inland pla. It was moist and sat out for awhile so also wanted to run it thru the filament dryer and see if it did better....it did. Almost pitched that roll.

I like the idea of the ridges just only a few inches long, also the shape need to not be half moon like as the bullets just swim over them. I’ll also try to do a video as I know that helps Tyler and his design mind.

I’d for sure give up on ironing! For this application it’s a no go after GWS testing. Not sure why you’re running the pla pro at 200? You getting cleaner prints? Less stringing I’m sure which is odd as I’m running it at 220 and get hardly any stringing. Maybe a retraction setting?

I love this forum I swear!

[TylerR]

I’ll get pics of my plate in a little bit. Aftermarket Inland pla. It was moist and sat out for awhile so also wanted to run it thru the filament dryer and see if it did better....it did. Almost pitched that roll.

I like the idea of the ridges just only a few inches long, also the shape need to not be half moon like as the bullets just swim over them. I’ll also try to do a video as I know that helps Tyler and his design mind.

I’d for sure give up on ironing! For this application it’s a no go after GWS testing. Not sure why you’re running the pla pro at 200? You getting cleaner prints? Less stringing I’m sure which is odd as I’m running it at 220 and get hardly any stringing. Maybe a retraction setting?

I love this forum I swear!

Yeah I was wondering that as well. For pla+ I print first layer at 220 and the rest at 210. No stringing at all.

I could do something like this:

270359

[lablover]

Yeah I was wondering that as well. For pla+ I print first layer at 220 and the rest at 210. No stringing at all.

I could do something like this:

270359

That looks like it would definitely be more aggressive! With the gradual ojive on those 223 bullets I think the height should be tall enough to smack the point of the bullet and turn it spin it or flip it. A good height I’m guessing is a little more than half the diameter of the bullet. Just spit balling here

[TylerR]

That looks like it would definitely be more aggressive! With the gradual ojive on those 223 bullets I think the height should be tall enough to smack the point of the bullet and turn it spin it or flip it. A good height I’m guessing is a little more than half the diameter of the bullet. Just spit balling here

Yeah, I am thinking 3mm would do it. But could go taller.

[djinnpb]

If you give me a bit I can test it.

Nope. Does not work. I think you want the plate to be about 1/3 the height of the brass. So probably 11-12mm would work. Have not tried it myself.

Thanks for checking. I'll print a quick one with
caliber=11
collator_plate_h=15
and see.

I still need to figure up the mounting of the larger base. The post mount seem solid or does it move? Would you change anything on it or let it ride? My current original AM bases I used Tom's splined setup and that's been decent but doesn't scale to the larger base and perhaps isn't the most ideal but worked great.

[lablover]

Yeah, I am thinking 3mm would do it. But could go taller.

thinks that's more than tall enough....video in process

[lablover]

Here ya go Tyler


https://youtu.be/UfP6nncyxGo

[TylerR]

Thanks for checking. I'll print a quick one with
caliber=11
collator_plate_h=15
and see.

I still need to figure up the mounting of the larger base. The post mount seem solid or does it move? Would you change anything on it or let it ride? My current original AM bases I used Tom's splined setup and that's been decent but doesn't scale to the larger base and perhaps isn't the most ideal but worked great.

I would go with h=12. That is a bit more then 1/3 the height of 300BO. Unless you are going to use this for other taller brass.

I have come to really like 1" post mount I designed. If you get the tension right its is very solid, but also allows you to easily adjust the angle. Tom's spline mount was very cool, but didn't look like angle adjustment was quick or easy.

[TylerR]

Here ya go Tyler


Haha! Looks just like a porpoise.

I am going to make the ridge height a parameter. Then people can play around with it. We will set it to 3 as default.

I just posted it. Take a look and let me know what you guys think.

[lablover]

Haha! Looks just like a porpoise.

I am going to make the ridge height a parameter. Then people can play around with it. We will set it to 3 as default.

I just posted it. Take a look and let me know what you guys think.

Perfect explanation for sure. I’ll probably run another plate for 223 and maybe 9mm
Thanks for the update

Btw, the printed 223 feeder die is working perfect!

[TylerR]

Perfect explanation for sure. I’ll probably run another plate for 223 and maybe 9mm
Thanks for the update

Btw, the printed 223 feeder die is working perfect!

Very cool, I will get to printing it out once I get a chance. I apologize as I think you already told me, but which one did you end up going with?

Have any of you gentleman looked at those new slide plates I loaded? I also changed the large and small pistol plates to reflect which numbers they correspond to. So large is #7 and small is #4.

[lablover]

Very cool, I will get to printing it out once I get a chance. I apologize as I think you already told me, but which one did you end up going with?

Have any of you gentleman looked at those new slide plates I loaded? I also changed the large and small pistol plates to reflect which numbers they correspond to. So large is #7 and small is #4.

I’m working on printing all the plates but #2 works great for 62 gr fmj 223. Yes you did ask what die but I’ll link again. Took a little bit of sanding to get it smoothed out but I saved 50 bucks so bonus. Perfect world would be you remixing it to work better with your drop tubes. I did a small adapter that works fine but hey

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508115

[TylerR]

I’m working on printing all the plates but #2 works great for 62 gr fmj 223. Yes you did ask what die but I’ll link again. Took a little bit of sanding to get it smoothed out but I saved 50 bucks so bonus. Perfect world would be you remixing it to work better with your drop tubes. I did a small adapter that works fine but hey


Not enough time in the day. I am waiting for another designer to come along and standardize the bullet feed dies!

I just created a spreadsheet to keep track of reported compatibility with the plates. If people report what works we could have a great reference.

[TylerR]

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RqdH8PhHStytrSBf_kjFPdUive91khkm?usp=sharing

threw some pics in also of the spacer and the depth change on the 9mm. It fits 1/2 pex perfectly. I use the tom penn light tubes currently. Haven't printed yours yet but if they're the same at the bottom it'll fit. if not I can modify and fix. Will print a 10mm tube tonight to check.

I just threw your 9mm feed die on the printer since that is what I want to get going next. Looking forward to getting it working. Also ordered some ball bearings which will be here friday.

[lablover]

I just threw your 9mm feed die on the printer since that is what I want to get going next. Looking forward to getting it working. Also ordered some ball bearings which will be here friday.

HAHAHA. rabbit hole time. I'll be interested in how you adapt it to your drop tube. I like the design of his dies. I have a completed 223 die I did from him but struggled with the drop tube adaptation

[GWS]

Sorry, but I've been out of pocket at work today, so haven't been able to check back to answer your questions. Will do that now.


Those ridges look very rough.
I am open to making changes. Keep in mind I created these ridges for brass feeding, not bullets. I just modeled it after my dillon plates with ridges. I could change it from a half cylinder to rectangular, and make them taller. We can definitely modify them to only come halfway up. What is the advantage of having them every other hole?

I missed that the ridge feature was for brass....we go a lot of directions at once here! Not the first time I got it confused. And yes, I don't know why the layers suddenly got wide and ugly on the ridges.....that wasn't in the g-code....software glitch I guess or maybe after 13 hours the machine got impatient.

As for every other hole, Lablover's porpoises show why..... too close together means they ride the wave! Every other one would allow them to fall off the wave and drop.


Not sure I am following this one. Not as fast because of jamming in the top of the drop tube? Or some other reason.

Plenty fast, just not fast to empty. My .45 nosedown had that problem with getting the very last bullet to fall. The big advantage of DAA's flipper/ramp is you don't care which way it falls, it just has to fall. But one bullet I can live with. But the porpoises as you called them, will be easy to fix. You just need an agitator that won't allow wave riders....farther apart waves.;)


...I like the idea of the ridges just only a few inches long, also the shape need to not be half moon like as the bullets just swim over them.

Yes! But even shorter.....one inch is more than enough. Longer ones (and troughs for that matter) bring bullets to the top,where they aren't wanted yet, before they drop in the holes.


I’d for sure give up on ironing! For this application it’s a no go after GWS testing. Not sure why you’re running the pla pro at 200? You getting cleaner prints? Less stringing I’m sure which is odd as I’m running it at 220 and get hardly any stringing. Maybe a retraction setting? ...

Yup....first try at ironing was a bust....no more for me.


Yeah I was wondering that as well. For pla+ I print first layer at 220 and the rest at 210. No stringing at all....

The stringing I've always had trouble with no matter which brand or style of PLA (I've been running at 210 and 60 on the bed). So when I got this new Overture stuff, it came with a "trouble sheet" which said stringing was caused by 1) too low retraction speed, 2) retraction distance too short, 3) too high printing temperature, and 4) travel speed.

So Overture suggested lowering temp to 200C for PLA or 240 for PETG.....set the retraction distance to 4mm (Bowden) or 1mm (Direct Drive) and adjust retractions speed to 50mm/sec (Bowden) or 35mm/sec (Direct)...and also increase travel speed but not too much....(that last suggestion was clear as mud)

So I checked my gcode and saw that the retraction distance setting was twice that suggested and speed a little more too. So only the temperature was lowered. It did reduce stringing but the ridges were, as TylerR already commented,....weird to say the least. A mystery to me why that happened. So maybe I'll go the other direction and try 220C since you guys print hotter. And the bed was 60....maybe I'll increase that to 80?


Not enough time in the day. I am waiting for another designer to come along and standardize the bullet feed dies!

I just created a spreadsheet to keep track of reported compatibility with the plates. If people report what works we could have a great reference.

Not enough time? Boy that's an understatement! Such a spreadsheet will be a SUPER reference!

Tonight I try it out as is......will post a video....

[TylerR]

OK guys. New collator generator is up. Here are your options to play around with

ridgeHeight = 3; // Ridge height in mm
ridgeLength = 30; // Ridge length in mm
ridgeAlternate = true; // Skip every other hole

[Lakehouse2012]

Thankyou Sir, makes perfect sense now, I'm working on assembly tonight. Amazon needs to drop me off more screws but getting close


I got ya covered man. The hole on the left is the main drop hole built in to the feeder body. It is used for bullet nose up feeding. The hole on the right, which is part of the slide plate, is for nose down bullet feeding. When running nose down, you insert the "Drop_Hole_Plug" in to the main drop hole. Both the main hole, and the hole on the slide plate need to be fitted with a standard "Drop_Hole_Adapter" with screws.

[lablover]

OK guys. New collator generator is up. Here are your options to play around with

ridgeHeight = 3; // Ridge height in mm
ridgeLength = 30; // Ridge length in mm
ridgeAlternate = true; // Skip every other hole

Oh yea, I like this

[djinnpb]

HAHAHA. rabbit hole time. I'll be interested in how you adapt it to your drop tube. I like the design of his dies. I have a completed 223 die I did from him but struggled with the drop tube adaptation

I'll help out with the feeder die fun since I just recently went down that rabbit hole for 9mm and 45. I have a DAA one for 30 cal but will do a printed one for that and a 223 also.

[GWS]

Well, TylerR, (with egg on my face) I'm reporting a false alarm for my part.....for the Sierra .22 55gr HPBT's I use....it works perfect as is, just as you designed it and just like I printed it. Half round ridges between every hole and troughs turned off. Is there anything to fix at all? Well I will taper the ridges on the center ends so bullets don't stick once in a while in the center....no biggie there with an exacto knife or sharp chisel.

You will see a couple of nose downs, but that's only because I have not printed a flipper plate for it yet, so it doesn't yet use the ramp....but I will and it will!;)

Again radial troughs turned off......don't need those bullet merry-go-rounds, they'd slow down the print even more and no reason for them. Would still like to try the ridges only an inch long....I think I'll print another just to see....and never will I "iron" again.....even tho it is smoother, no need for the extra 2 hours.

No problem with empty-speed here......happy happy!


https://youtu.be/EULZFjm-xgQ

Please everybody note: This is the small size plate for the original bucket base size.

It works fast, efficient and there's no porpoises in sight. IOW's for my needs....I'm done. Just got to figure the best way to connect it to my RCBS Rifle Tube feeder.....the easy part. Now for .308......:)

Thankyou again TylerR and AmmoMike.

[TylerR]

Well, TylerR, (with egg on my face) I'm reporting a false alarm for my part.....for the Sierra .22 55gr HPBT's I use....it works perfect as is, just as you designed it and just like I printed it. Half round ridges between every hole and troughs turned off. Is there anything to fix at all? Well I will taper the ridges on the center ends so bullets don't stick once in a while in the center....no biggie there with an exacto knife or sharp chisel.

You will see a couple of nose downs, but that's only because I have not printed a flipper plate for it yet, so it doesn't yet use the ramp....but I will and it will!;)

Again radial troughs turned off......don't need those bullet merry-go-rounds, they'd slow down the print even more and no reason for them. Would still like to try the ridges only an inch long....I think I'll print another just to see....and never will I "iron" again.....even tho it is smoother, no need for the extra 2 hours.

No problem with empty-speed here......happy happy!

Please everybody note: This is the small size plate for the original bucket base size.

It works fast, efficient and there's no porpoises in sight. IOW's for my needs....I'm done. Just got to figure the best way to connect it to my RCBS Rifle Tube feeder.....the easy part. Now for .308......:)

Thankyou again TylerR and AmmoMike.

I am very glad to hear about the success. I think the modifications we made to the generator are probably worth while anyway. Any time I can make things better I will.

[TylerR]

So far I have printed out the 9mm and .45 feeder dies. I am printing the .223 die now. These things are pretty cool. I haven't actually tested anything yet. I am going to slowly start working on recreating them, starting with the screw in die. That part can be somewhat standard I think, just with varying internal diameters. The part that slides in is a little trickier but I'm sure I can reproduce. Thing is getting the roughed out design is not usually the problem. Its working out the finer details to get the reliability, which generally means printing the part 50 times. haha

[TylerR]

I'll help out with the feeder die fun since I just recently went down that rabbit hole for 9mm and 45. I have a DAA one for 30 cal but will do a printed one for that and a 223 also.

Have you recreated anything in 3D cad yet?

[GWS]

I am very glad to hear about the success. I think the modifications we made to the generator are probably worth while anyway. Any time I can make things better I will.

I agree! That amazing creation is just getting more amazing......wish I could say the same for my skill using OpenScad.....just having a hard time holding on to new stuff in an old brain I guess. I noticed that AmmoMike didn't stick around to chat. Would have been fun. Wonder what he's been up to since his files were last updated? Nothing new on his post since last spring, but maybe he was concerned that the files were taken down yet again? Were they?

Will be interested in how these feed dies work out.......patiently watching. I have Hornady pistol feed dies, and the RCBS tube rifle dies......but these printed ones look interesting if they work smooth and every time. The ball bearing design itself is superior to the Hornady ones, but again there may be patent problems. RCBS got around that with a different but equal ball bearing design.

[djinnpb]

Have you recreated anything in 3D cad yet?

Just the bushings in f3d

[lablover]

What I want to learn is how to remix things. I’ve used fusion 360 but that’s about it. It would be nice to be able to modify a .stl file and make a few changes. If there’s a way to do it I’m clueless as how to do it. Fusion is not a simple cad program. I know enough to get in trouble for sure.

Will be interested in what Tyler comes up with for the dies. I don’t think the software he uses works on a Mac so I’m limited

[TylerR]

What I want to learn is how to remix things. I’ve used fusion 360 but that’s about it. It would be nice to be able to modify a .stl file and make a few changes. If there’s a way to do it I’m clueless as how to do it. Fusion is not a simple cad program. I know enough to get in trouble for sure.

Will be interested in what Tyler comes up with for the dies. I don’t think the software he uses works on a Mac so I’m limited

I have always wondered about that term "remix". Unless you get your hands on the original cad files, it is not an easy process to make changes. STL files do not translate well in to 3d cad programs for the most part. What I do is pull the stl in and use it as a template, where I can grab dimensions from and such, to basically recreate the cad from scratch. Which is what I am doing with these feed dies. My first task was to recreate the 7/8 x 14 thread pattern for the screw in die. Just getting that correct is a project. lol

[lablover]

I have always wondered about that term "remix". Unless you get your hands on the original cad files, it is not an easy process to make changes. STL files do not translate well in to 3d cad programs for the most part. What I do is pull the stl in and use it as a template, where I can grab dimensions from and such, to basically recreate the cad from scratch. Which is what I am doing with these feed dies. My first task was to recreate the 7/8 x 14 thread pattern for the screw in die. Just getting that correct is a project. lol


Never thought of that. Good idea. Wife got tired of me going into the home office to work on the computer for hours on end so she sprung for a MacBook for me....hahahahahaha. Perfect

[Andar]

Just a quick question. I've got a Dillon xl650 and I saw in the original AmmoMike files he has a mount for the rod that normally holds the case feeder. Has anyone used that yet? Can't figure out how to mount it nicely.
I'll be printing a case feeder as well, so the two feeders will be mounted side by side.

[TylerR]

Just a quick question. I've got a Dillon xl650 and I saw in the original AmmoMike files he has a mount for the rod that normally holds the case feeder. Has anyone used that yet? Can't figure out how to mount it nicely.
I'll be printing a case feeder as well, so the two feeders will be mounted side by side.

My 1" post mount will work on the Dillon rod.

[Andar]

My 1" post mount will work on the Dillon rod.

Awesome, I'll take a look at that tonight. Thanks!

[djinnpb]

Going to try the APP files out also (got an idle printer). What's the difference in the drop tube adapter and connectors, primarily offset adapter #4?

[TylerR]

Going to try the APP files out also (got an idle printer). What's the difference in the drop tube adapter and connectors, primarily offset adapter #4?

You may want to go back to page 79 and read up from there. All of the APP stuff was discussed.

[djinnpb]

You may want to go back to page 79 and read up from there. All of the APP stuff was discussed.

/me flips blonde hair. Thanks! I swore I ran through those but I clearly missed it. Good save!

[TylerR]

Here is a little preview of my progress so far:
270436

[lablover]

Here is a little preview of my progress so far:
270436

Drool!

[GWS]

I'm interested.....and that's an understatement!.....but I have one problem. I'm so stinking slow with my projects that it'll be Christmas by the time I get there.

Tonight I did finally get a bullet flipping plate printed for my .223 bullet project, it took me as long to adjust it and fine tune my proximity sensor stuff as to print it....but finally got it adjusted to work at a pretty good clip. Below, the video shows how long it took to fill the tube and turn off automatically......bullet flipper works quite well.....the loudest thing is the little motor. Really like that motor.

https://youtu.be/vJUEXfd3r2U

I wish I could say I got the tube to the press figured out....but I don't.....molasses my middle name anymore.

BTW, what's the green mark on the flipping plate and base? When I got the plate just right, I took a dremel cut off blade and cut a slit across the intersection.....heated up a wood burner pencil and fed and melted a piece of green filament into the slit separately on each side, and cleaned it up.....if the line is straight the adjustment for .223 is perfect. Simple, but it works for me.

Oh! Another BTW. Notice the thing stuck into the sprung knocker. I found I don't need that noisey thing without the radial troughs. Even the ribs TylerR designed on the bullet plate aren't moving any bullets top side....they stay down in the bottom until they fall in a hole. I like that a lot!.........and it empties to the last bullet very fast.

[lablover]

Nice job GWS. That thing is cruising

[stlmacgeek]

Thanks to everyone here for all the work they have done. I have read every post. I started printing AmmoMike's original design before finding TylerR's larger version. So I am sticking with the original size. I have almost everything printed and all of the parts together I just need to assemble it.

GWS, I did notice in a picture you posted in post #1844 that it looks like you have a part attached right under the drop hole that looks like it has a proximity sensor installed in it. I have looked through all of the files and have not found it. Is that stl file available somewhere? I would prefer to use the proximity sensor because that is what I used in my case feeder and I already have an extra one. If anyone could let me know where I can find the stl file I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks everyone and keep up the good work!

[TylerR]

Nice job GWS. That thing is cruising

Yeah, holy cow man. I assume he doesn't run it that fast when actually reloading. Or he must pull the handle on that press super quick. :)

[TylerR]

I am also playing around with a feed die design that just interfaces directly with the drop tube, no adapter necessary. To be honest I am not sure I see the need for the rubber band /spring attachment points, because it seems to me a full drop tube will provide plenty of weight to reset the die, just like with the DAA dies.

It looks like this.

270450

My 4mm ball bearings should arrive today so I can do some actual testing.

[lablover]

I am also playing around with a feed die design that just interfaces directly with the drop tube, no adapter necessary. To be honest I am not sure I see the need for the rubber band /spring attachment points, because it seems to me a full drop tube will provide plenty of weight to reset the die, just like with the DAA dies.

It looks like this.
270450

My 4mm ball bearings should arrive today so I can do some actual testing.

The one I posted the link to has no springs. I did a little sanding on the slide portion of the die and made it pretty slick. The weight of the drop tube and spring makes it function just fine

[lablover]

I am also playing around with a feed die design that just interfaces directly with the drop tube, no adapter necessary. To be honest I am not sure I see the need for the rubber band /spring attachment points, because it seems to me a full drop tube will provide plenty of weight to reset the die, just like with the DAA dies.

It looks like this.
270450

My 4mm ball bearings should arrive today so I can do some actual testing.

The one I posted the link to has no springs. I did a little sanding on the slide portion of the die and made it pretty slick. The weight of the drop tube and spring makes it function just fine

[TylerR]

Oh! Another BTW. Notice the thing stuck into the sprung knocker. I found I don't need that noisey thing without the radial troughs. Even the ribs TylerR designed on the bullet plate aren't moving any bullets top side....they stay down in the bottom until they fall in a hole. I like that a lot!.........and it empties to the last bullet very fast.

Now that you have done some testing, I would like your opinion on whether I should just do ribs on the stock collator plates I generate in my download, and skip the sliding troughs? There are a couple advantages to getting rid of them. For one, the plate would not have to be as tall. Also, I have found that they tend to allow bullets to ride to the top kind of balanced halfway in the hole and halfway out. Usually they fall back to the bottom but sometimes they end up dropping right at the last second on the slide plate, which can cause bad results.

Also, what setting did you use for the bevel in the print you did for the above video? Looks like it is less then the 1.3 default for bullets.

[TylerR]

The one I posted the link to has no springs. I did a little sanding on the slide portion of the die and made it pretty slick. The weight of the drop tube and spring makes it function just fine

Good feedback, thank you. I am very tempted to go that route, and eliminate the need for any adapters.

[TylerR]

Thanks to everyone here for all the work they have done. I have read every post. I started printing AmmoMike's original design before finding TylerR's larger version. So I am sticking with the original size. I have almost everything printed and all of the parts together I just need to assemble it.

Thank you for reading the entire thread! It really helps to save on questions that have been covered multiple times.

[lablover]

Now that you have done some testing, I would like your opinion on whether I should just do ribs on the stock collator plates I generate in my download, and skip the sliding troughs? There are a couple advantages to getting rid of them. For one, the plate would not have to be as tall. Also, I have found that they tend to allow bullets to ride to the top kind of balanced halfway in the hole and halfway out. Usually they fall back to the bottom but sometimes they end up dropping right at the last second on the slide plate, which can cause bad results.

I agree with GWS. Most of the action happens at the bottom with tiny rifle bullets, I was watching it and I don’t think a single bullet used a trough for anything i wonder if no troughs and short ribs is the answer? Would reduce size and print time. I’ll be watching this one..oh yea, the knocker serves no purpose on my 223 plate. I did the same and disable it

[lablover]

Just a tip that I’m sure most know. When printing a feeder die, make sure in cura or whatever slicer you are using that you set the Z seam to random otherwise a Z seam will be on the back side and it WILL cause issues when you try to get the 2 pieces sliding together well......ask me how I know. Haha

[TylerR]

Just a tip that I’m sure most know. When printing a feeder die, make sure in cura or whatever slicer you are using that you set the Z seam to random otherwise a Z seam will be on the back side and it WILL cause issues when you try to get the 2 pieces sliding together well......ask me how I know. Haha

That is excellent advice. I actually wasn't doing that. Just made the change.

[lablover]

That is excellent advice. I actually wasn't doing that. Just made the change.

Well glad it helped.

Look forward to seeing your results

[r4ndy]

I got some help much earlier in this thread on how to pin the motor shaft, figured I would share with all the people looking at hex plates. Picture of the standalone coupler shows a hole drilled for the roll pin. With the taller AM plates I was able to run it right through the set screw hole (picture of collator).

270458270459270460

[Michael303]

Here's my updated electronics box. I also tested the nubs I added to my plate and they worked great. I loaded 200 rounds of 9mm last night letting the feeder run empty a few times and the nubs made sure all the bullets dropped in.

https://i.imgur.com/QgUlDNr.jpg


Thank you for reading the entire thread! It really helps to save on questions that have been covered multiple times.

It would be great if we could have an FAQ on the first page or something. Or even just a public Google doc that we could point people to that gets updated occasionally. Stuff like what are the best motor and spring options gets lost so quickly and reading a 100 page thread is a big ask.

[r4ndy]

Hi - Would someone be able to try modifying the drop tubes to work with a Dillon 750? I think what is needed is a 15 degree angle from vertical. Alternatively, maybe just a coupler for the tube to the feeder die? The 750 charge bar comes out and interferes with a drop tube in position 3 or 4. DAA came out with a smaller charge bar which would help for pistol for $30, but won't drop enough of a charge enough for rifle. If this works I would really appreciate tubes for 9MM, 45ACP and 223. Thanks! I have saved the file in multiple rotations and for the life of me I can't get it right :( 270462

[TylerR]

Here's my updated electronics box. I also tested the nubs I added to my plate and they worked great. I loaded 200 rounds of 9mm last night letting the feeder run empty a few times and the nubs made sure all the bullets dropped in.

It would be great if we could have an FAQ on the first page or something. Or even just a public Google doc that we could point people to that gets updated occasionally. Stuff like what are the best motor and spring options gets lost so quickly and reading a 100 page thread is a big ask.

If someone wants to put something together I would be more then happy to host it on my drive.

[GWS]

Yeah, holy cow man. I assume he doesn't run it that fast when actually reloading. Or he must pull the handle on that press super quick. :)

Yeah, right...I don't ever move that fast....but I figure if I can get it to go that fast without problems slowing it down a tad would come with no problems. I would prefer to not use a ramp....but I haven't tried the baffle for rifle bullets in particular or base down in general.....but I plan to look into it. It's really hard to beat a good ramp....and DAA knows it....that's why they bought Ricks design and patent.


Now that you have done some testing, I would like your opinion on whether I should just do ribs on the stock collator plates I generate in my download, and skip the sliding troughs? There are a couple advantages to getting rid of them. For one, the plate would not have to be as tall. Also, I have found that they tend to allow bullets to ride to the top kind of balanced halfway in the hole and halfway out. Usually they fall back to the bottom but sometimes they end up dropping right at the last second on the slide plate, which can cause bad results.

You know I've never been a fan of the troughs....I love what Ammo Mike has done, but I've always thought troughs were details not necessary. I could still be wrong....they might be needed for some things....but to just run em in every plate seems counter productive to my mind. About tall....for bullets, I think they need to be as tall as the tallest bullet you are going to feed in them, But riding bullets in troughs are a bad thing, IMO. On the original Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder....the bullets rose and fell over and over and over and over!.... and they were louder than hell! Mind numbing...then the flipping bullet trick came and the noise went way down, because they were so efficient that the plates emptied the first time around. Then the troughs came and it was still efficient except where bullets rode the trough and the crashing down came back.


Also, what setting did you use for the bevel in the print you did for the above video? Looks like it is less then the 1.3 default for bullets.

I did not change the 1.3 on the bevels.....they look smaller because the troughs are gone. Worked pretty darn good that way, so I won't be changing that.;)

This has been a day from hell for me at work. But it's handled......I hope....and maybe I can get back to the fun stuff this evening.

[lablover]

Yeah, right...I don't ever move that fast....but I figure if I can get it to go that fast without problems slowing it down a tad would come with no problems. I would prefer to not use a ramp....but I haven't tried the baffle for rifle bullets in particular or base down in general.....but I plan to look into it. It's really hard to beat a good ramp....and DAA knows it....that's why they bought Ricks design and patent.



You know I've never been a fan of the troughs....I love what Ammo Mike has done, but I've always thought troughs were details not necessary. I could still be wrong....they might be needed for some things....but to just run em in every plate seems counter productive to my mind. About tall....for bullets, I think they need to be as tall as the tallest bullet you are going to feed in them, But riding bullets in troughs are a bad thing, IMO. On the original Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder....the bullets rose and fell over and over and over and over!.... and they were louder than hell! Mind numbing...then the flipping bullet trick came and the noise went way down, because they were so efficient that the plates emptied the first time around. Then the troughs came and it was still efficient except where bullets rode the trough and the crashing down came back.



I did not change the 1.3 on the bevels.....they look smaller because the troughs are gone. Worked pretty darn good that way, so I won't be changing that.;)

This has been a day from hell for me at work. But it's handled......I hope....and maybe I can get back to the fun stuff this evening.

Time to get another print going without the troughs. Even with 10% infill and 2 walls these rifle plates take forever to print.

[GWS]

Thanks to everyone here for all the work they have done. I have read every post. I started printing AmmoMike's original design before finding TylerR's larger version. So I am sticking with the original size. I have almost everything printed and all of the parts together I just need to assemble it.

GWS, I did notice in a picture you posted in post #1844 that it looks like you have a part attached right under the drop hole that looks like it has a proximity sensor installed in it. I have looked through all of the files and have not found it. Is that stl file available somewhere? I would prefer to use the proximity sensor because that is what I used in my case feeder and I already have an extra one. If anyone could let me know where I can find the stl file I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks everyone and keep up the good work!

I don't have one stl, I have four......so far. this is a design in process that started on page 54 and continued on pages 55,56 then improved using a 3 piece more easily printed design on page 57and 66. Then page 75, a .22 downtube with offset interior path on page 77. I do love it, but it's not a finished product for those who expect to print and use without some TLC, and tweaks here and there. One more thing...it's not designed for the small diameter proximity sensors. Make sure you have one like I have.

I'm not ready with the files just yet. I'll get the files together and post a link in this post. So if you want to print them at your own risk, and try them you certainly welcome to. Just return to this post in a few hours and download them if you want. They work great for me.

With TylerR's help....... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV

https://i.postimg.cc/bvnKyLsd/223-downtube.png

One more thing....in the picture above shows the .223 version of the upper in the middle. It has a funnel going into the top, and a curved path to keep falling bullets within range of the sensor. Now that funnel is stair stepped because of how 3d printers print. That causes those tiny bullets to pile up if not smoothed out with a round file, or something....I also painted mine with acrylic wax (use to be called Pledge) and before it dried I rubbed fine powdered graphic in it.....making it slicker than snot......no more problems....bullets fall like water, just like my last video showed.

[stlmacgeek]

Hi - Would someone be able to try modifying the drop tubes to work with a Dillon 750? I think what is needed is a 15 degree angle from vertical. Alternatively, maybe just a coupler for the tube to the feeder die? The 750 charge bar comes out and interferes with a drop tube in position 3 or 4. DAA came out with a smaller charge bar which would help for pistol for $30, but won't drop enough of a charge enough for rifle. If this works I would really appreciate tubes for 9MM, 45ACP and 223. Thanks! I have saved the file in multiple rotations and for the life of me I can't get it right :( 270462


r4ndy,

I was having the same problem and per this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvUNLwiAB2g I removed my failsafe rod and added springs like he did in the video. I didn't buy the Dillon springs though. I have an assortment of springs and I grabbed them out of there. My powder measure can now be turned to any position. YMMV. Good luck!

[GWS]

If someone wants to put something together I would be more then happy to host it on my drive.

Okay, you know how. I thought it would be easy to share the stls stlmacgeek wants....until I tried. Guess I don't have a clue. Any advice?

[r4ndy]

Thanks STL, I am hoping to find a solution to leave the rod on but I will keep this in mind. I have springs on my Lee Pro's, so familiar territory.

[TylerR]

Okay, you know how. I thought it would be easy to share the stls stlmacgeek wants....until I tried. Guess I don't have a clue. Any advice?

Check your email. I just added you as an Editor to my google drive folder. You can now add/remove files. :)

And now I see your files. Aint that cool?

Might make more sense to zip your stl's up and then just drop that as a file in the main bf folder.

[GWS]

like that? Never thought I'd become dumb as a stump with computers....but I'm almost there. Way back in the dark ages I built my first cad machine by building HeathKit circuits by soldering iron. Maybe I ought to just keep that a secret.....oh well....too late.;)

[TylerR]

like that? Never thought I'd become dumb as a stump with computers....but I'm almost there. Way back in the dark ages I built my first cad machine by building HeathKit circuits by soldering iron. Maybe I ought to just keep that a secret.....oh well....too late.;)

Haha, that's awesome! You got me beat by a bit. My first computer was a Texas Instruments TI99.

Your upload looks good to me my friend.

Anything you want to share feel free to throw it up there. I don't use it for anything else anyway.

And if anyone is wondering how to get to it check my sig line.

[lablover]

Haha, that's awesome! You got me beat by a bit. My first computer was a Texas Instruments TI99.

Your upload looks good to me my friend.

Anything you want to share feel free to throw it up there. I don't use it for anything else anyway.

And if anyone is wondering how to get to it check my sig line.

good touch putting that in your tag line

[stlmacgeek]

I don't have one stl, I have four......so far. this is a design in process that started on page 54 and continued on pages 55,56 then improved using a 3 piece more easily printed design on page 57and 66. Then page 75, a .22 downtube with offset interior path on page 77. I do love it, but it's not a finished product for those who expect to print and use without some TLC, and tweaks here and there. One more thing...it's not designed for the small diameter proximity sensors. Make sure you have one like I have.

I'm not ready with the files just yet. I'll get the files together and post a link in this post. So if you want to print them at your own risk, and try them you certainly welcome to. Just return to this post in a few hours and download them if you want. They work great for me.

With TylerR's help....... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ChWax_MaYIWk1eTKE-y0qvUSP9B4MwvV

https://i.postimg.cc/bvnKyLsd/223-downtube.png

One more thing....in the picture above shows the .223 version of the upper in the middle. It has a funnel going into the top, and a curved path to keep falling bullets within range of the sensor. Now that funnel is stair stepped because of how 3d printers print. That causes those tiny bullets to pile up if not smoothed out with a round file, or something....I also painted mine with acrylic wax (use to be called Pledge) and before it dried I rubbed fine powdered graphic in it.....making it slicker than snot......no more problems....bullets fall like water, just like my last video showed.

GWS, Thanks for the files and the advice! Much appreciated. Looks like I have something to work on this weekend.

[Rage 01]

Here's a link of a 3D printed bullet feeder die with springs. If this indeed needs springs it'd be nice to use pen springs like the flipper.

https://youtu.be/Sf4wwsLgiqY

Take the springs off and use o-rings, works better.
I have designed a 9, 223 and a 40 of these droppers. Just testing them out before I release them.
I see someone mentioned that they don't need springs or bands to hold the bullet dropper together because the weight of the tube or spring will hold it down.
The reason why I use an o-ring is to keep it together so it does not come apart and I lose the ball bearing.

[lablover]

New 223 plate is 15 minutes from being done. Looks great! Yea..........I forgot to change the bullet diameter in openscad to 556 so whatever the default was....hahahahaha. Damn! No troughs and stubby ridges. What a bone head move. Time to print another. Let’s just call this one a practice session.

[GWS]

Nobody's perfect. Remember the "ugly, ironed" one I did? Remember the video of .223 that was perfect and faster than hell? Same print. Think I'll keep it.;)....ugly or not it works better than anything else I've seen. So try yours out with whatever caliber it's printed at. Maybe you'll discover some magic.

[lablover]

Nobody's perfect. Remember the "ugly, ironed" one I did? Remember the video of .223 that was perfect and faster than hell? Same print. Think I'll keep it.;)....ugly or not it works better than anything else I've seen. So try yours out with whatever caliber it's printed at. Maybe you'll discover some magic.

I will do that. 9mm at rifle height.

I will say I like the squared off ridges...nice

[GWS]

Maybe it'll do 30 caliber AND .223. ;)

[lablover]

Little off topic but I bet one of those resin printers would do a fabulous job on dies and drop tubes....oh boy

[TylerR]

The reason why I use an o-ring is to keep it together so it does not come apart and I lose the ball bearing.

That is a great point. I will look to put them back on my design. I have the .45 version just about worked out.

270497

[lablover]

That is a great point. I will look to put them back on my design. I have the .45 version just about worked out.

270497

Yup, it’s Christmas again. I’m liking the look of that

[TylerR]

Yup, it’s Christmas again. I’m liking the look of that

The nice part is they interface directly with the drop tube, just like the DAA die. Once I get this worked out I will post it, and then do 9mm next.

[lablover]

The nice part is they interface directly with the drop tube, just like the DAA die. Once I get this worked out I will post it, and then do 9mm next.


I could add a monkey wrench to the mix. Visions of eliminating the drop tube and just extending the top slider part of the die and adding the light sensors to that. Lol

[TylerR]

I could add a monkey wrench to the mix. Visions of eliminating the drop tube and just extending the top slider part of the die and adding the light sensors to that. Lol

The drop tube increases the bullet column, which is a good thing. It also shows the movement of bullets in the tube, and has the interface for the spring adapter. If anyone wants something different I will leave that to them. :)

[lablover]

The drop tube increases the bullet column, which is a good thing. It also shows the movement of bullets in the tube, and has the interface for the spring adapter. If anyone wants something different I will leave that to them. :)


Agree

[Andar]

Hey TylerR, is it possible to get the design file for the spring adapter? I'd like to modify it to work with this (https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/5-pc-spring-tube-bender-set/A-p8609638e) type of spring, as it's more widely available and cheaper up here than the DAA springs (plus you get multiple sizes). The adapter I used was the '9mm_spring_housing_v2', but it would be nice to be able to quick swap them instead of having to screw the adapter in place every time. I'll gladly send back the finished result if someone else went the same route as me.

[TylerR]

Hey TylerR, is it possible to get the design file for the spring adapter? I'd like to modify it to work with this (https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/5-pc-spring-tube-bender-set/A-p8609638e) type of spring, as it's more widely available and cheaper up here than the DAA springs (plus you get multiple sizes). The adapter I used was the '9mm_spring_housing_v2', but it would be nice to be able to quick swap them instead of having to screw the adapter in place every time. I'll gladly send back the finished result if someone else went the same route as me.

Sure, I can export in the following formats. Which one do you want? Yes, if you do get something going I would appreciate getting them back so I can add to the download.

270507

[Rage 01]

Here is what my 40 looks like:
I use 3.15 mm ball bearings to give me the max size of the outer shell part that screws into the machine. I found if I use a 4mm then the threads are a little too weak and can break.
The top of the inside of the dia there is a threaded hole. I can put a 4mm screw in there to hold an adapter. With this I can make what ever adapter to fit any machine. I have a Dillon 650XL. I have been using my 9mm dia for a while now. I think I have ran over 3000 rounds through it so far with no problem. The 9mm dia looks the same just changed the center hole for the size. I am working on a 223 one right now but am having a little difficultly with it. I will figure it out. I print these on a CR10S with PetG for a added strength.

I am working on a new drop tube right now for the photo sensor. A little shorter and where you can hide the wires with in the drop tube. I use a JST connector to plug into the drop tube to the control box. Nice and clean and neat. My OCD kicks in with any type of wiring.

270508

[TylerR]

Here is what my 40 looks like:
I use 3.15 mm ball bearings to give me the max size of the outer shell part that screws into the machine. I found if I use a 4mm then the threads are a little too weak and can break.
The top of the inside of the dia there is a threaded hole. I can put a 4mm screw in there to hold an adapter. With this I can make what ever adapter to fit any machine. I have a Dillon 650XL. I have been using my 9mm dia for a while now. I think I have ran over 3000 rounds through it so far with no problem. The 9mm dia looks the same just changed the center hole for the size. I am working on a 223 one right now but am having a little difficultly with it. I will figure it out. I print these on a CR10S with PetG for a added strength.

I am working on a new drop tube right now for the photo sensor. A little shorter and where you can hide the wires with in the drop tube. I use a JST connector to plug into the drop tube to the control box. Nice and clean and neat. My OCD kicks in with any type of wiring.


Looks like a solid design. Do you have an adapter to connect to the standard drop tube that fits the DAA die?

I am with you, I used jst connector for the led/sensor wiring and xt30 for the motor.

[TylerR]

I have a question for Rage 01 or anyone else that can explain this to me. These dies usually have two levels of holes where the ball bearing goes. We can see this on Rage's screen shot. I understand this is supposed to accommodate different length bullets, but I still don't understand how or why its necessary. Also, how do you really determine how far up to put the holes? Someone please educate me.

[lablover]

I was just going to post that I’d love to see the insides of the dies. My mind things the ball bearing holds the bullet in place so as a case is driven up into the die it moves the sleeve and bearing up and when it engages a groove I assume in the die body it releases the bullet. When the nose or the ogive passes the bearing the bearing pops back out and stops the next bullet.

Hard for me to put into words and not even sure my thought process is correct

[Andar]

Sure, I can export in the following formats. Which one do you want? Yes, if you do get something going I would appreciate getting them back so I can add to the download.

270507

AutoCAD .DXF would work best. I'm using fusion 360. Thank you!

[TylerR]

AutoCAD .DXF would work best. I'm using fusion 360. Thank you!

They are on the drive.

[GWS]

Well I will be really interested if that .DXF works on his software. The last time I tried to open a .DXF (the big base) on Autocad it just loaded a blank screen.

So I just tried to load this Spring adaptor you put on.....same thing. In the command line it says,"Invalid or incomplete DXF input -- drawing discarded." Hope Fusion works better.

Maybe there's something I don't know here......wouldn't be the first time.....

I would LOVE to have dxf's of OpenScad files that worked in my Autocad......would make my life so much easier.

Until then it's back to learning how to code Scad again......and it's not going very well so far.....

[Rage 01]

Looks like a solid design. Do you have an adapter to connect to the standard drop tube that fits the DAA die?

I am with you, I used jst connector for the led/sensor wiring and xt30 for the motor.

To answer your question, Yes I have a adapter that I designed. Really all it is a straight piece to connect them both together. I made my hole at the top of the dia the same size as the bottom of the dropper which was in your files. That way you can't mix it up on which way it fits.
270523

[Rage 01]

I have a question for Rage 01 or anyone else that can explain this to me. These dies usually have two levels of holes where the ball bearing goes. We can see this on Rage's screen shot. I understand this is supposed to accommodate different length bullets, but I still don't understand how or why its necessary. Also, how do you really determine how far up to put the holes? Someone please educate me.

That is a tricky question:
You are right the holes for the ball bearings are for the different length of projectiles that may be used. The groove inside of the outer piece also dictates what size of projectile you may use.
Now the groove in the outer piece will determine how high the inside of the dia needs to be pushed by the machine for the projectile to drop. That size is also based from the bearing hole on the inside piece.
So for me what I did was measure the length of the projectile which was 14.75 on average and made the center of the hole in the center piece that high. I am sure there is different ways to get to this.
So now there is a hole on each side of the inner piece. One is 14.75 on center and the other is 3mm higher on the inner piece or the size of your bearing you are using.
Now this is were it gets interesting. The reason (in my logic) why the holes is off set is because if you don't the dia will feed more that one projectile at a time. the second offset hole holds the other projectiles up until the dia is reset, then it releases the projectile to sit on the first bearing. So another words the second hole (bearing) will fall into the outer groove.
Now the second set of holes was a crap shoot. I have printed about 50 of these things to figure that out because I did not have any other projectiles to measure it from. ( I have sent this dia to a user on here for testing because his projectiles were a different size than mine.) I would think if you are only going to use one size of projectile then one set of holes will be ok, but that is not going to be the case.

I hope this is clear as mud?

Raymond.

[TylerR]

I hope this is clear as mud?

Raymond.

Haha yeah maybe a little bit. I appreciate the input. I think my strategy is going to be copy the spacing from existing designs and leave it at that. For the .45 I have the DAA die so I am just using that spacing. I still have not put it in the press yet, but I should be ready for that tonight or tomorrow.

[lablover]

That is a tricky question:
You are right the holes for the ball bearings are for the different length of projectiles that may be used. The groove inside of the outer piece also dictates what size of projectile you may use.
Now the groove in the outer piece will determine how high the inside of the dia needs to be pushed by the machine for the projectile to drop. That size is also based from the bearing hole on the inside piece.
So for me what I did was measure the length of the projectile which was 14.75 on average and made the center of the hole in the center piece that high. I am sure there is different ways to get to this.
So now there is a hole on each side of the inner piece. One is 14.75 on center and the other is 3mm higher on the inner piece or the size of your bearing you are using.
Now this is were it gets interesting. The reason (in my logic) why the holes is off set is because if you don't the dia will feed more that one projectile at a time. the second offset hole holds the other projectiles up until the dia is reset, then it releases the projectile to sit on the first bearing. So another words the second hole (bearing) will fall into the outer groove.
Now the second set of holes was a crap shoot. I have printed about 50 of these things to figure that out because I did not have any other projectiles to measure it from. ( I have sent this dia to a user on here for testing because his projectiles were a different size than mine.) I would think if you are only going to use one size of projectile then one set of holes will be ok, but that is not going to be the case.

I hope this is clear as mud?

Raymond.

Well I’m baffled. My printed 223 die uses one single bearing in the inner piece and it works perfect every time. The guy on thingiverse explains to only use one bearing and use the hole heights on the inner piece dependent on the length of your bullets.

[Andar]

Well I will be really interested if that .DXF works on his software. The last time I tried to open a .DXF (the big base) on Autocad it just loaded a blank screen.

So I just tried to load this Spring adaptor you put on.....same thing. In the command line it says,"Invalid or incomplete DXF input -- drawing discarded." Hope Fusion works better.

Maybe there's something I don't know here......wouldn't be the first time.....

I would LOVE to have dxf's of OpenScad files that worked in my Autocad......would make my life so much easier.

Until then it's back to learning how to code Scad again......and it's not going very well so far.....

Well, it opens and gives me a great isometric projection, but only one angle so I can't build the 3d model. I'll keep fiddling with this and try to make it work. I'm new at Fusion so I'll need some time.
I don't think any other format would help other than maybe .obj, but that might be only slightly better than trying to use an .stl which is awful.

[GWS]

Well, it opens and gives me a great isometric projection, but only one angle so I can't build the 3d model. I'll keep fiddling with this and try to make it work. I'm new at Fusion so I'll need some time.
I don't think any other format would help other than maybe .obj, but that might be only slightly better than trying to use an .stl which is awful.

I had heard that it only did 2 dimensions....then I heard there was a new 3d version of .dxf, but I doubt my 2015 Autocad can read those. But I don't even get an isometric. I will have to design parts from scratch or learn OpenScad, and I'm having trouble finding time to do that right.

Biggest problem is my old brain cells.....they don't remember new information without repetition....and that's a pain. I'm not partial to having to learn something over and over.

[TylerR]

Well I’m baffled. My printed 223 die uses one single bearing in the inner piece and it works perfect every time. The guy on thingiverse explains to only use one bearing and use the hole heights on the inner piece dependent on the length of your bullets.

I am on the fence to use just one or two bearings. I think I am going to design it around two, but we will see. DAA uses three bearings. Hoping to post this .45 one today for you to try out.

To clarify, I mean two bearings placed in holes at the same height opposite each other, not two different heights. DAA has three bearings all at the same height.

[lablover]

I am on the fence to use just one or two bearings. I think I am going to design it around two, but we will see. DAA uses three bearings. Hoping to post this .45 one today for you to try out.

To clarify, I mean two bearings placed in holes at the same height opposite each other, not two different heights. DAA has three bearings all at the same height.

Look forward to trying it. I don't see how 2 bearings would be a disadvantage. Maybe it's only one for 223? Dunno

[AR-Bossman]

Two bearings is where it's at. You have to be on your game for a single to work consistently. Meaning your printer can't be off on ID and OD of circles. With dual ball bearings there is alot more room for error and bullets coming down at full force won't hammer the dual setup like a single. If you're on the loose side with a single a heavy 230gr bullet dropping 2+ feet will pop out or get stuck. Three bearings is a bit much when trying to assemble these droppers, esp. if you've left the bottom half in the machine.

[TylerR]

Two bearings is where it's at. You have to be on your game for a single to work consistently. Meaning your printer can't be off on ID and OD of circles. With dual ball bearings there is alot more room for error and bullets coming down at full force won't hammer the dual setup like a single. If you're on the loose side with a single a heavy 230gr bullet dropping 2+ feet will pop out or get stuck. Three bearings is a bit much when trying to assemble these droppers, esp. if you've left the bottom half in the machine.

Appreciate that input. Right now the only issue with two in the .45 die is that there is so little clearance for the wall thickness on the screw in die base, there will be a section that will have a wall thickness of only .5mm, but the way it is designed it will be supported in the threaded section of the die holder, so I don't believe will be an issue. It will absolutely need to be printed with a .4 nozzle. I am also printing at high quality settings in cura and it comes out very nice.

[lablover]

Two bearings is where it's at. You have to be on your game for a single to work consistently. Meaning your printer can't be off on ID and OD of circles. With dual ball bearings there is alot more room for error and bullets coming down at full force won't hammer the dual setup like a single. If you're on the loose side with a single a heavy 230gr bullet dropping 2+ feet will pop out or get stuck. Three bearings is a bit much when trying to assemble these droppers, esp. if you've left the bottom half in the machine.

Makes sense. the 223 little light bullets don't do much slamming.....LOL. I like the idea of 2 bearings

[lablover]

Appreciate that input. Right now the only issue with two in the .45 die is that there is so little clearance for the wall thickness on the screw in die base, there will be a section that will have a wall thickness of only .5mm, but the way it is designed it will be supported in the threaded section of the die holder, so I don't believe will be an issue. It will absolutely need to be printed with a .4 nozzle. I am also printing at high quality settings in cura and it comes out very nice.

Just FYI. Ive been using Prusa Slicer and it has a pretty slick feature. Variable layer height. So for a collater plate I can print .3 layer height until I get to the top and important parts then it will switch to finer setting. Helps reduce print times.

[GWS]

I only have experienced RCBS's rifle bullet feeder that also uses ball bearings.....4. I'm curious how it differs from the DAA design and what you guys are doing.

On mine there is two bearings 180 degrees apart closed under the bottom bullet base, and two 180 apart just below the next bullet's base. The top 2 are open at rest.

The feed:
1. Rod (holding the 4 bearings) and the case rises closing the top bearings under the next in line bullet. It can do that because the rifle bullet points taper in.
2. Rising further the bottom bearings open and the bottom bullet falls into the "M" expanded case.
3. Rod is then lowered on the return stroke which closes the bottom bearings and opens the top ones letting the bullet stack drop one bullet to the lower bearing stop.

There is a threaded internal sleeve that one adjusts up and down to control when the bearings recede to prevent two from falling.....and of course many holes in the rod for the top two bearing for different bullet lengths. The bottom two bearings only have one hole location.

I've never seen a MBF die so I don't know how they work......but would like to know.

Heres' a picture to go with the description above....

https://i.postimg.cc/3JNwHrkq/IMG-2811.jpg

[TylerR]

I've never seen a MBF die so I don't know how they work......but would like to know.


That system looks definitely a lot more involved. This video explains the DAA die in detail:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2mG7dVPxlU

[AR-Bossman]

I remember when you first showed those RCBS dies GWS and my research, which may be wrong, was that the rcbs only allowed one independent bullet to drop. The DAA idea allows the whole stack to drop and in effect help push the bullet into the case. One of the reasons I like your "high" mounted on/off sensor, is that you get a massive amount of weight to help push the bullet into the case, and you will never have to worry about it toppling over.

[TylerR]

Just FYI. Ive been using Prusa Slicer and it has a pretty slick feature. Variable layer height. So for a collater plate I can print .3 layer height until I get to the top and important parts then it will switch to finer setting. Helps reduce print times.

That is pretty cool. Have you tried that out on a collator plate yet?

[GWS]

I remember when you first showed those RCBS dies GWS and my research, which may be wrong, was that the rcbs only allowed one independent bullet to drop. The DAA idea allows the whole stack to drop and in effect help push the bullet into the case. One of the reasons I like your "high" mounted on/off sensor, is that you get a massive amount of weight to help push the bullet into the case, and you will never have to worry about it toppling over.

Sort of a paradox I guess;) That's why the RCBS product comes with an "M" die. With it used before the powder drop, one doesn't need a stack. My other test was with one bullet, one drop, and it sticks....well even! Now maybe you can understand why I tested it on my single station press first.....with one bullet and no stack...I was skeptical:

https://vimeo.com/268105982

Now I'm really curious how it's possible to do it with only one bearing.....I would think two at 180 would be better balanced. I think 3 might be overkill.

[GWS]

That system looks definitely a lot more involved.

I suppose....a little....it uses a well known old system but newly executed with obviously "Rick inspired" ball bearings. They sure work better. ;) What I don't understand is why MBF only uses "M" steps on pistols. Why didn't they use them on the rifle feeders too?

[lablover]

That is pretty cool. Have you tried that out on a collator plate yet?

I figured I’d try it on something small first and it works like a charm. I might throw another collator plate on tonight and try it with that. The cool thing about it is you can adjust the layer height anywhere on the print..I.e the bottom 1/3 of something then the top 1/2 etc. big bonus for sure

[GWS]

That system looks definitely a lot more involved.

I suppose....a little....it uses a well known old system but newly executed with obviously "Rick inspired" ball bearings. They sure work better. ;) What I don't understand is why MBF only uses "M" steps on pistols. Why didn't they use them on the rifle feeders too?

And for that matter, why is RCBS still screwing around with mediocre pistol feeders, when the rifle ones work so much better?

[lablover]

Sort of a paradox I guess;) That's why the RCBS product comes with an "M" die. With it used before the powder drop, one doesn't need a stack. My other test was with one bullet, one drop, and it sticks....well even! Now maybe you can understand why I tested it on my single station press first.....with one bullet and no stack...I was skeptical:

https://vimeo.com/268105982

Now I'm really curious how it's possible to do it with only one bearing.....I would think two at 180 would be better balanced. I think 3 might be overkill.

GWS. I have no clue how it works with one bearing but it is and it works as well as the DAA one I have. I’d suggest anyone trying it try with one first to see if it works. I’d like to see inside the die but I’m sure it’s a single ring around the inside that the bearing will for lack of better words fall into as the case is inserted

[AR-Bossman]

My opinion, is that DAA sells the integrated powder drop and M die for pistol because it's the sizes favor being able to do that and it leaves station 3 open for powder check. They sell the lyman M die for .223 and .308.

[GWS]

Makes sense....

I guess I should add one more thing.....I'd rather buy from RCBS than DAA....they've been good to me for 46 years....bent over backwards even.....so I'm loyal.....not to the parent company mind you, just RCBS. So if they have a product that works, I buy it...if I can.

On the DAA die, I'm still not sure how it works with different lengths of bullets. The many adjustment holes in the RCBS are obvious. I can understand obvious. But just one extra hole and ring adjustment has me baffled. I may have to print one of these semi copies to analyze myself.;)

[o416]

Does anybody know which slide plate can be used to flip bullets nose down on the original AmmoMike design? I tried to scaled down Tyler's and it doesn't work so well :/

Also, which motor did folks settle on for Tyler's larger design?

[AR-Bossman]

Does anybody know which slide plate can be used to flip bullets nose down on the original AmmoMike design? I tried to scaled down Tyler's and it doesn't work so well :/

Also, which motor did folks settle on for Tyler's larger design?

See if you can find a post or a thread somewhere in here or the special projects section where he designed and shared a really good nose down setup for the ammomike design. It's been maybe a year or more since he posted the information. I'll update if I can find at least his name.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?393646-3D-bullet-feeder-mods-with-parts-Thanks-AmmoMike!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4082769

[AR-Bossman]

I may have to print one of these semi copies to analyze myself.;)

The sacrifices you make for science, GWS, is inspiring. Hahahahaha

[lablover]

The sacrifices you make for science, GWS, is inspiring. Hahahahaha

It’s a pretty fast print as well...compared to some of the things we print. Go for it

[GWS]

Exactly.........any more sacrifice than that would be a waste of plastic I'm not willing to make.;) I already have more useful ideas and things to print than I have time left on this earth for. And, I already have working bullet feed dies in all the calibers I need......and, I may be wrong, but steel ball bearings riding in plastic seems, well, .......a bit temporary? :)

[lablover]

Exactly.........any more sacrifice than that would be a waste of plastic I'm not willing to make.;) I already have more useful ideas and things to print than I have time left on this earth for. And, I already have working bullet feed dies in all the calibers I need......and, I may be wrong, but steel ball bearings riding in plastic seems, well, .......a bit temporary? :)

Good point..However, when it break if it breaks print another. hahahahaha

[GWS]

Too bad self lubricating and extraordinarily strong UHMW isn't 3d printable.....imagine the possibilities....

[lablover]

Too bad self lubricating and extraordinarily strong UHMW isn't 3d printable.....imagine the possibilities....

I’d have fun with that one for sure.

[AR-Bossman]

Exactly.........any more sacrifice than that would be a waste of plastic I'm not willing to make.;) I already have more useful ideas and things to print than I have time left on this earth for. And, I already have working bullet feed dies in all the calibers I need......and, I may be wrong, but steel ball bearings riding in plastic seems, well, .......a bit temporary? :)

For the average reloader I think they would work alright, but even DAA makes a "pro" version of their dropper that is all steel and a huge chunk of brass for weight.

[lablover]

For the average reloader I think they would work alright, but even DAA makes a "pro" version of their dropper that is all steel and a huge chunk of brass for weight.

Weight is a plus. The do make these little ad ons that I think would be easy to incorporate in our quests.

270602

[TylerR]

Weight is a plus. The do make these little ad ons that I think would be easy to incorporate in our quests.


I have been doing some testing with the design, and there are some issues that come in to play in the "real world". I found that when its just the dropper die with the drop tube, everything functions perfectly. Once you connect the spring however it imparts some sideways loading on the dies, which can cause it to bind up and not return to the down position. So o-rings / springs / more weight do seem necessary to help prevent that.

I also realize that on the 45 die using two 4mm bearings is not an option. There is just not enough clearance. One bearing does work, but I may redesign it around 3.5mm bearings. As far as the steel ball bearings breaking down the plastic, I can only see that maybe becoming an issue after many thousands of rounds, if ever.

[lablover]

I have been doing some testing with the design, and there are some issues that come in to play in the "real world". I found that when its just the dropper die with the drop tube, everything functions perfectly. Once you connect the spring however it imparts some sideways loading on the dies, which can cause it to bind up and not return to the down position. So o-rings / springs / more weight do seem necessary to help prevent that.

I also realize that on the 45 die using two 4mm bearings is not an option. There is just not enough clearance. One bearing does work, but I may redesign it around 3.5mm bearings. As far as the steel ball bearings breaking down the plastic, I can only see that maybe becoming an issue after many thousands of rounds, if ever.

I had the same issue once I installed the output spring. I created a little bracket that would go on the Dillon drop tube and then the spring to straighten out the output spring. Seems to be working. I’ll try to get a picture here in a bit. But I see why the rubber washer or springs on the sides would help greatly