I'm not talking about cleaning your hieny. When you cast in a multi cavity mould, do you pour the back (handle side) or front first? Some times my mind wanders while casting
I'm not talking about cleaning your hieny. When you cast in a multi cavity mould, do you pour the back (handle side) or front first? Some times my mind wanders while casting
I start at the non handle end and go from there. I didn't know if there is a correct end to start at. Maybe il learn something new lol.
I start at the back (hole farthest from me) and work my way forward. I'm lazy now with them broken in, a solid stream of lead and pull the mold straight through fills all the cavities. Works for all the little 6 bangers at least, larger calibers/rifles, ymmv.
I start at the handle end. Just got inside from casting a few hundred 40 cal.
I have made it a practice when starting out to fill one or two cavities at the far end. When those get easy to cut then fill three or four and when those are easy go for all six. Once everything is working nice I reverse order and fill from the handles out. I have never broken a sprue lever.
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I LIKE IKE
I'm mostly handle out, but will vary to from outside end back toward handle from time to time. I'm trying to keep the mold temp even. Figure the lead coming out of the ladle is hottest for that first pour and coolest for the last one.
Watching with interest to see what others do, would be worthwhile knowing if one is talking about with a ladle or with a bottom pour pot.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
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One nearest the handles first pull mold out fill the farthest one last put mold down ,fill next mold then empty the first mold.allows time for bullets to cool .
hmm perhaps I need to switch directions!
I fill from handles out as my sprue plates all have a run off trough in them now
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.
I most often fill from back to front always pushing the mold away for me.
BUT some molds want to be filled in the opposite direction, I have a Lee 6 cav that
refuses to give 6 goods boolits per pour if I push away, if I start handle end and
pull toward me I get 6 good boolits.
Calamity Jake
NRA Life Member
SASS 15704
Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.
Wow good and interesting answers. Keep em coming
I ladel cast with a soup ladel i modified so that it has a pore spout. My 2 molds are lee 2 cavity and i pore from the handle out. For me it is easyer to control my pore to get a good bollit this way. My only thing is i have to move quick to keep things up to temp.
I cast therefor I shoot. Or is it the outher way around?
On a 4-6 cav mold, I always pour front to handle. That puts the hardest sprue where the leverage of the sprue plate is at it's best.
I too have never broken a plate or handle.
Information not shared. is wasted.
I cast from the far end towards the handle, except on two moulds. Guess the venting is different. Have to cast from hinge end first to get all six cavities filled out correctly
I start with the cavity closest to me and bring the mold out toward me. If done opposite filling the front cavity first,if there is lead spillage, pushing the mold forward becomes blocked. My mold guide has a cut out ,that the spilled lead can build up ,and not allow the mold to be pushed forward.
When I first started this craziness I was advised that the larger/heavier boolits from a multi-cavity mold would be the ones from the last cavities, presumably because the blocks have absorbed more heat by the time you fill them. Then I was advised to weigh and measure and shoot those boolits last, if I ever shot in competition, since the barrel will have warmed and expanded a bit.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
This is the efficient way to do it!
I also try solid stream and one pour per hole with each mould. Some moulds have a much higher percentage of acceptable boolits with the one pour per hole method than with the solid stream method.
If your pouring technique splashes unfilled holes and makes the boolit defective, you may have to change the tilt direction of the mould, the direction of the pour, or the speed of pour to get more good boolits faster.
My last casting session with 6C moulds was three Mihec moulds.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |