simple Hi-Tek coating

[Conditor22]

shane, you have some options.
1) you can cover the bottom of your oven with heat retaining media ie firebricks, steel,? Once the oven and the media have reached 400 degrees, then the oven will recover/return to 400 degrees faster.
2) You could build/buy a PID to control the oven temperature
3) you could spend $50 to $$$$$ and get a new convection oven.
I bought a used Oster 2 shelf convection oven at a thrift store for $20 and can bake 16 lbs of bullets at a time in it.

[shanep]

shane, you have some options.
1) you can cover the bottom of your oven with heat retaining media ie firebricks, steel,? Once the oven and the media have reached 400 degrees, then the oven will recover/return to 400 degrees faster.
2) You could build/buy a PID to control the oven temperature
3) you could spend $50 to $$$$$ and get a new convection oven.
I bought a used Oster 2 shelf convection oven at a thrift store for $20 and can bake 16 lbs of bullets at a time in it.I'll try that thanks. I'll try the firebrick. The oven is new

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

[Ausglock]

Shane... have you read the Do's and Don'ts thread??

[Petander]

Forgive my ignorance but why would you coat 12 gauge slugs for are they not going to be in a wad which it rides in?

Color coding.


http://i63.tinypic.com/25qazok.jpg

[shanep]

Shane... have you read the Do's and Don'ts thread??No sir, I'll lik for it. Been busy sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

[Ausglock]

link to the thread.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?240450-HI-TEK-do-s-and-don-ts

[Conditor22]

Color coding.

good answer useful with HiTek and PC

[HI-TEK]

link to the thread.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?240450-HI-TEK-do-s-and-don-ts

I recall this post. It is great. It mainly deals with Liquid Hi-Tek coating.

May be, another post would be beneficial where it describes the use and techniques of the Powdered Hi-Tek coatings.

[Ausglock]

The actual coating and baking process is the same.
Just easier to mix with the powder than the liquid.

[Conditor22]

I really like the look of that TMG Gold coating. If enough of us contact Donnie "High-Performance Boolit Coatings" he'll bring some in with his next order.

[HI-TEK]

I really like the look of that TMG Gold coating. If enough of us contact Donnie "High-Performance Boolit Coatings" he'll bring some in with his next order.


Only small batches have been made, and supplied to various people. One commercial caster uses it here.
The major problem is, that this stuff is 3 plus times the cost of normal coatings.
I have been working on it and have developed a Hybrid that works and looks the same as the TMG but continues to be about twice the price of the other coatings.

The TMG hybrid is the one being posted on this blog.
I have been thinking of sending Donnie, a kilo or two by Air Freight for consumer comments. However, the makers of various ingredients seem not to want to co-operate with small quantity purchases.
I have not given up with this project.

[Ausglock]

I find the TMG is too close to 1035 Gold to warrant using the TMG.
Even Sunny Gold is too close to TMG.

[HI-TEK]

I find the TMG is too close to 1035 Gold to warrant using the TMG.
Even Sunny Gold is too close to TMG.

I agree to an extent. Colours are similar, but the TMG system uses totally different materials and is more bright in daylight than both 1035 and Sunny Golds.

[Ausglock]

Hmmm.... Might have to mix some to try to get a brighter Kryptonite green.

[HI-TEK]

Hmmm.... Might have to mix some to try to get a brighter Kryptonite green.


I may have to contact Petander to get some rare metals to add to the alloy, may be some Plutonium, or Radium, and it will glow in the dark.:-P:kidding:

[Petander]

I may have to contact Petander to get some rare metals to add to the alloy, may be some Plutonium, or Radium, and it will glow in the dark.:-P:kidding:

He he hee... :)

I love TMG for the ultimate ease and durability. I can make thicker coats,tough,elastic.

This most probably has something to do with my alloy,even when it's cleaned I had a hard time with Zombie Green. It always wipes a little,even when seriously bronze-overbaked.

But now I found some ingots that don't react with Acid Test at all and even ZG is good.

233146.

TMG still has an edge,my space-age multi-contaminant alloy loves it. I can mix,coat and bake almost without measuring anything or using a timer,always great results. Really wide temperature window,too.

[Avenger442]

So beginning to see a list of advantages for the TMG. May be easier to use with success based on Petanders post.

In my opinion the 1035 Gold is as good as anything I have tried so far.

Joe
Does volume decrease the price very much? Say Donnie had a pre-order for customers of five kilo, would that lower the price?

[HI-TEK]

So beginning to see a list of advantages for the TMG. May be easier to use with success based on Petanders post.

In my opinion the 1035 Gold is as good as anything I have tried so far.

Joe
Does volume decrease the price very much? Say Donnie had a pre-order for customers of five kilo, would that lower the price?


Hi Avenger, (Happy and a prosperous new year to you and your family)

I always price my products based on commercial volumes. 5 kilos would not even be considered as commercial volume.
Donnie takes hundreds of kilos of various colours.
Main things that are also against me at present is very small demand of the TMG/composite in comparison to other colours. I will have to purchase thousands of dollars worth of materials in standard packs, with no guarantee of volume sales for years.
The USD is strong, and we are charged in USD and the AUSD is very weak and so we pay a lot more for materials.
Even the normal coloured coatings prices have increased by 20% simply due to exchange rate movements against AUSD.
Sending a couple of kilos to the US for consumer testing is achievable, but costs to send such material/weight costs cannot be added to product costs as it would be very cost prohibitive.
My suggestion in previous blog was to send the 1-2 kilos to Donnie for local testing.
We have not discussed this with Donnie at this stage.

There was a shipment sent in December to Donnie, which should be in US in about two to 3 weeks.
Unfortunately as it is gone we cannot add the TMG/Composite with that sea freight.

Next shipment may be months away , and is up to Donnie when that occurs.

[Conditor22]

Joe, too many of us this is a hobby, to you, Donnie and several others it is a business. I understand business and don't want anyone losing money on this. I'd pay double for TMAG gold if it came to that but I can (and have :)) lived without it.

[Warhead]

Just wanted to pop in and say how awesome K15 black has been for me!
I have coated everything from 22-250 (reduced loads round 2000 fps) to 30 Mauser, to 45acp to 375 H&H (Full magnum loads gas checked) and have never had any leading, or residue in the barrel.
Best part is I don't have to worry about over baking it, it just stays black. :razz:
Put it in the oven at 200 C and cook it till it passes the wipe test. Don't worry about over baking it.

Still never could get the Blue to work out, always came out green. :violin:

[HI-TEK]

Just wanted to pop in and say how awesome K15 black has been for me!
I have coated everything from 22-250 (reduced loads round 2000 fps) to 30 Mauser, to 45acp to 375 H&H (Full magnum loads gas checked) and have never had any leading, or residue in the barrel.
Best part is I don't have to worry about over baking it, it just stays black. :razz:
Put it in the oven at 200 C and cook it till it passes the wipe test. Don't worry about over baking it.

Still never could get the Blue to work out, always came out green. :violin:

How are you doing Warhead.
Thanks for your post. I am glad you have had great success. The K-15 is a very slick coating, and tough as nails. Commercial casters here, also like the stuff.
With your gas checked alloy, what is alloy hardness that you used at 2000ft/sec?
The beauty of these coatings is that once heat set, over baking simply improves final film, but colour suffers badly with over bake.
Tests were done to see just what happens with baking for long periods. After 5 days at 200C although green went Black, it shot without any problems and was accurate.
Hi-Tek

[Warhead]

How are you doing Warhead.
Thanks for your post. I am glad you have had great success. The K-15 is a very slick coating, and tough as nails. Commercial casters here, also like the stuff.
With your gas checked alloy, what is alloy hardness that you used at 2000ft/sec?
The beauty of these coatings is that once heat set, over baking simply improves final film, but colour suffers badly with over bake.
Tests were done to see just what happens with baking for long periods. After 5 days at 200C although green went Black, it shot without any problems and was accurate.
Hi-Tek

Actual hardness I couldn't tell you as I don't have a hardness tester, it was a 50/50 mix of range scrap and Lino velocity were around 2550 FPS accuracy was good for the rifle I was using, about 2 1/2 inches at 100 yrds for a 5 shot group.

Also Happy new year!!

[Conditor22]

warhead, I saw this thread, it might be a way to go
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?355056-Easier-pencil-lead-hardness-testing

[Petander]

I posted this a few pages back. All TMG Gold,just different baking times.

233261

[HI-TEK]

I posted this a few pages back. All TMG Gold,just different baking times.

233261

I really like to Tanned overbaked version. The dark Brown is also very nice. How do they look in sunlight?
Can you see any Glitter through that dark coating?
Just wondering what cooking times/details were done, to get each colour change?

[dikman]

Still never could get the Blue to work out, always came out green. :violin:

Blue? What blue is that?

[Ausglock]

Blue? What blue is that?

probably the gunmetal..

[Petander]

I really like to Tanned overbaked version. The dark Brown is also very nice. How do they look in sunlight?
Can you see any Glitter through that dark coating?
Just wondering what cooking times/details were done, to get each colour change?

Sunlight? What sunlight? :)

Yes you can see some glitter in the dark ones. These colors are so hard to photograph with artificial light.

I first got the Lime Greenish tint by accidentally overbaking 30 cal bullets a little. Tan Gold comes next, then it slowly turns to Black Cherry,sort of.

There may actually be some sunlight outside right now but -20°C...

[dikman]

probably the gunmetal..

Yep, but it's sold as gunmetal, not blue. Warhead, increase your bake temp to about 235*C, same time, and it should change from green to something else.

[Warhead]

No, it was clear and I mixed blue food coloring into it!!!! :kidding:
https://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq45/Hamturret/P1040086_zpszhozexqg.jpg (https://s432.photobucket.com/user/Hamturret/media/P1040086_zpszhozexqg.jpg.html)
https://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq45/Hamturret/P1040087_zps4z4sr3ld.jpg (https://s432.photobucket.com/user/Hamturret/media/P1040087_zps4z4sr3ld.jpg.html)
https://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq45/Hamturret/P1040094_zpsjpuaxhkd.jpg (https://s432.photobucket.com/user/Hamturret/media/P1040094_zpsjpuaxhkd.jpg.html)
https://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq45/Hamturret/P1040088_zpsmoc1bjzj.jpg (https://s432.photobucket.com/user/Hamturret/media/P1040088_zpsmoc1bjzj.jpg.html)

Some 535 gain Lymans coated in K15 black, and a H&G 68BB coated in the dark blue that is a dark green in person.

[Avenger442]

Blue is a real tough color for Joe and Hi Tek. He has been working on it for a while. The closest I have used is the Dark Blue. But it is so dark that unless you have it in bright sun light it looks black. I think he is still looking for a formulation that will produce a true blue (pun intended).

[Stephen Cohen]

Blue is a real tough color for Joe and Hi Tek. He has been working on it for a while. The closest I have used is the Dark Blue. But it is so dark that unless you have it in bright sun light it looks black. I think he is still looking for a formulation that will produce a true blue (pun intended).

For your true blue pun I recommend you for honorary Australian First Class.

[Avenger442]

Thanks Stephen.
Australia is one of the top five places I've always wanted to visit in the world.

[marky123]

Thanks Stephen.
Australia is one of the top five places I've always wanted to visit in the world.

Pop into New Zealand on your way please

[Mr_Sheesh]

Be careful, I've heard that the honorary Australian First Class deal comes with 3 Drop Bears, delivered separately.

[Ausglock]

Could be worse... New Zealand welcome you with a pair of rubber boots, Velcro gloves and a jar of lanolin.. baaaaaaaa baaaaaaa

[Conditor22]

https://i.imgur.com/3JwC8oO.png

[Ausglock]

Ain't he cute??????

[smlekid]

I wonder where they found a tame one?

[Stephen Cohen]

You guys crack me up. Regards Stephen

[marky123]

Could be worse... New Zealand welcome you with a pair of rubber boots, Velcro gloves and a jar of lanolin.. baaaaaaaa baaaaaaa

We are world famous in New Zealand for our friendly welcome to visitors...

[Avenger442]

Drop Bears are like the infamous American Jackalope. Except longer teeth.
233716

What is the equal to American Bigfoot in Australia?


Marky123;
I hear you guys have some wonderful scenery over in New Zealand. And my wife loves the beach.

Oh, almost forgot, I wouldn't want to miss the place where they filmed the Hobbit movie. I'm a J.R.R. Tolkien fan. I actually got to visit his house in Oxford, England and sit at a desk in the spot where he wrote the Hobbit. There is a really good story about him and C.S. Lewis at Oxford. But we have already hijacked the thread enough at this point.

[Conditor22]

https://i.imgur.com/D5DxbL7.png

[Avenger442]

That one looks a lot like my sister when we were kids:bigsmyl2:. The horns and the eyes are a definite match.

[Ausglock]

The Aussie version of Bigfoot is the Yowie.
My grandfather saw a Yowie out the back of Sportsmans creek in northern NSW back in the 1930's. He was falling trees and saw this huge hairy thing looking around a tree at him. He said he threw the Axe at it and it took off like a scalded cat. Swore on his life it was a Yowie.

[marky123]

Mount Doom (aka Ngauruhoe) is a few hours from me.
It’s part of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing which is on my to do list.
MARK

[wlkjr]

Hate to get off topic on all the supernatural sightings and whatnot but I've found a really good toaster oven for cooking bullets.
I've been using a Black and Decker that I paid $60 for at WalMart. Few weeks ago my wife bought a new air fryer convection type oven at WalMart for around $70. It is a FarberWare Model 201797 Air Fryer Toaster Oven. The model number is only on the bottom of the box. It is a large model with digital controls. The fan on this thing is so strong it will suck a sheet of aluminum foil off the tray on the middle shelf. It cooks food really fast and even and I can only imagine how well it would cook the coating for Hi-Tek. If my B&D ever quits, I'm going to confiscate this one.

[Avenger442]

Yea we did hijack it there for a while.

Black and Decker makes one of those for about the same price, too. Cuisinart has one too but much more expensive of course.
Where are the heating elements on yours? It looks like they are covered in the picture I was looking at for the B&D.
It looks like the door seals better. That would be a plus.

Anybody out there using one of these? It may be an improvement over what I have been using. And I would like to hear back.

[wlkjr]

This FarberWare has 6 elements, two on the bottom and 4 across the top spaced evenly. The fan is 6" in diameter and powerful. Not seen that on a toaster oven before.
My B&D has two top and 2 bottom, at the back and front.

[Avenger442]

wlkir;
Are the elements exposed or covered on the FarberWare air fryer? I can't find a good photo of it to look at. On the B&D air fryer it looks like they are covered.

[wlkjr]

wlkir;
Are the elements exposed or covered on the FarberWare air fryer? I can't find a good photo of it to look at. On the B&D air fryer it looks like they are covered.

Exposed

[Petander]

Zombuck.

234141

[dikman]

You're an addict! Coating everything in sight!:lol:

[Petander]

You're an addict! Coating everything in sight!:lol:

That's right - even my TMG-Cat is on Zombie Green diet now:

234213

[Intel6]

Zombuck.

234141

Funny, I did the exact same thing. Had some extra green mixed up and went looking for anything to coat. Found a bunch of Lee buck I had casted a while back and coated them up!

[Avenger442]

I can make even buck shot pretty!

[Petander]

Hi Tek TMG Gold makes everything pretty,even my balls:

234253

[HI-TEK]

I am going to get my computer expert to show me how to use Facebook correctly.

[Avenger442]

Anybody having trouble with the link to JM Facebook?

I get a message; "The page you requested cannot be displayed right now. It may be temporarily unavailable, the link you clicked on may be broken or expired, or you may not have permission to view this page." I think that Facbook would at least know why it is not being displayed!

Anyway, Joe, just can't pull it up and have tried several times.

[Tazza]

I get an error too :( Possibly facebook doing it's usual censoring.....

If that's the case, you may need to alter the wording to not mention anything about bullets or guns. On other shooting related groups on FB i'm on, people call cases shiny brass bits or scrap brass etc. Nothing saying gun or ammunition.

[Ausglock]

Joe.. the link is wrong.
try again.

[Stephen Cohen]

Hi Tek TMG Gold makes everything pretty,even my balls:

234253

You just made my eyes water with that. Regards Stephen

[Tazza]

Those are some nice shiny balls right there.

[Ausglock]

My Australia Day mix.
Kryponite Green and TMG Gold.
https://i.imgur.com/KSTz9mX.jpg

[Tazza]

If you added some red, you'd have Christmas too! look great.

Are those projectiles popular with IPSC? I was asked if i could make ones like that a few years ago, but didn't have a mould, so never got into making conical SWCs

[HI-TEK]

Joe.. the link is wrong.
try again.

Thanks, my mistake.
I realised that to use this link, you must use my password to log onto Facebook. I must get my computer tech to show me how it is done correctly.

[HI-TEK]

If you added some red, you'd have Christmas too! look great.

Are those projectiles popular with IPSC? I was asked if i could make ones like that a few years ago, but didn't have a mould, so never got into making conical SWCs

He has choices of 3 Red's but wont use any of them. Red 122, Candy Apple, DD Red.

[Tazza]

Thanks, my mistake.
I realised that to use this link, you must use my password to log onto Facebook. I must get my computer tech to show me how it is done correctly.

Come on Joe, we are trust worthy, right :)

[Tazza]

I really do like the red 122, people see them and comment on how good it looks.

[HI-TEK]

Come on Joe, we are trust worthy, right :)

No problems.

[HI-TEK]

I really do like the red 122, people see them and comment on how good it looks.

If you like the Red 122 you would also like the Candy Apple, it has Golden Glitter embedded. You can see the colour as posted on FB.
With J&M FB site, you must log into your individual Facebook accounts, and copy the link to J&M into search bar , then, it should take you there through Facebook.

[HI-TEK]

Anybody having trouble with the link to JM Facebook?

I get a message; "The page you requested cannot be displayed right now. It may be temporarily unavailable, the link you clicked on may be broken or expired, or you may not have permission to view this page." I think that Facbook would at least know why it is not being displayed!

Anyway, Joe, just can't pull it up and have tried several times.


Hello Avenger
Apparently there was two things wrong, the site was restricted to friends only, but now it has been re-set for public views.

Second thing was that I had forgotten to advise, that people had to log onto their own Facebook site first,
and enter link as I supplied, and it should take it straight to J&M Facebook page.

Attached is link that needs to be entered into search bar where there is www......

https://www.facebook.com/JM-Specialized-Products-278002006203240/?modal=admin_todo_tour

Hope that this works.

I just clicked on the link above and it took me straight to J&M FB.

[Avenger442]

Works great now Joe.
Only thing is I logged in under my wife's account. My name is not Debbie:bigsmyl2:

[HI-TEK]

Works great now Joe.
Only thing is I logged in under my wife's account. My name is not Debbie:bigsmyl2:

Thanks for quick feed back.
I am learning this stuff, and will update site as I learn more.
How did it look so far? At least you can see pictures of colours.

[Ausglock]

Candy Apple red is the best red.

[Tazza]

I need to get casting to use up more hi-tek so i can get some candy apple next time :)

I have noticed small bits of where the my projectiles possibly touch when cooking that after three coats you an see metal. Not all have this, and i'm concerned as they pass smash and wipe tests. It's almost as if the coating is still soft when taken out of the oven and when two have stuck to each other, one pulls a very small dot of coating off the other. I wonder if i take the tray out and let it cool before dumping it into a cooling tray to pile up for sizing. Could it be as simple as this?

When cooking, i don't have just one layer per tray, so they are all touching each other. It's only an appearance thing.

[Gremlin460]

I need to get casting to use up more hi-tek so i can get some candy apple next time :)

I have noticed small bits of where the my projectiles possibly touch when cooking that after three coats you an see metal. Not all have this, and i'm concerned as they pass smash and wipe tests. It's almost as if the coating is still soft when taken out of the oven and when two have stuck to each other, one pulls a very small dot of coating off the other. I wonder if i take the tray out and let it cool before dumping it into a cooling tray to pile up for sizing. Could it be as simple as this?

When cooking, i don't have just one layer per tray, so they are all touching each other. It's only an appearance thing.

Shoot me a PM and I send you 20g in a druggie bag, just so you can try it out.

[hunter74]

I shot myfirst coated boolits today in my Glock 20 10mm auto. They are 155 RNSWC Magma boolis. 2 coats of Hi Tek Gold supercoat.

They worked great, grouped nice together and the gun was clean after shooting about 50 of them. My load was 7 gr of Vhitavouri 350. A mild 10mm auto load. I shot them at my gun clubs indoor range and the smoke I'm used to from my traditional lubed naked lead bullets, were gone. One thing I noticed was the smell after shooting. It smelled almost like a welding shop. Is this normal, or have I done somthing wrong? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190122/b897ebd57ec41207d5f7cf50027cc1f4.jpg

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

[Tazza]

That is some great coverage from two coats, they look great.

Honestly, i have never noticed the smell after shooting hi-tek, the only smell i get is the powder, but i use AP100, 70 and 50, all are not real clean burning so it over rides any other smells.

As long as they are passing the smash and wipe tests, you are doing everything right. As the barrel was clean, i say you are spot on.

[HI-TEK]

I shot myfirst coated boolits today in my Glock 20 10mm auto. They are 155 RNSWC Magma boolis. 2 coats of Hi Tek Gold supercoat.

They worked great, grouped nice together and the gun was clean after shooting about 50 of them. My load was 7 gr of Vhitavouri 350. A mild 10mm auto load. I shot them at my gun clubs indoor range and the smoke I'm used to from my traditional lubed naked lead bullets, were gone. One thing I noticed was the smell after shooting. It smelled almost like a welding shop. Is this normal, or have I done somthing wrong? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190122/b897ebd57ec41207d5f7cf50027cc1f4.jpg

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk



If I look at your coated alloy, you have some darker than others. This is telling me that some are baked OK and some are not (lighter colour). It could be a result of over loading of oven, inadequate uneven heat circulation. This will cause some (lighter coloured ones) to not be adequately heat cured.

Do not take oven temperatures as indicator of projectiles being adequately baked.
All the projectiles, must get to 180C or above, and stay there for another 3 minutes afterwards.

If coatings are not baked adequately or evenly, the extra heat being produced from burning powder will cause such odours.
You may have just reached cure enough to use coated projectiles, but extra heating/baking should fix this.
Over baking will not harm coating only darken colour.

[hunter74]

Thanks. The dark ones are from the bottom tray and the lighter ones are from the top tray. I assume that the temp is uneven when my oven doesn't have an air circulation fan.

The cooking time was 12 minutes at 200 C controlled by my PID/SSR box.

It's an easy fix to cook them longer but then they are not gold any more. They are turning more dark broze in colour. This is not a problem if overcooking doesn't hurt the boolits and make them better[emoji106]

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

[pkchwy]

Hi all. I use a Magma Star Lube-sizer and i have some NOE sizing dies. is there any trick to sizing the projectiles as i am only asking as they say you should put 1 in 10 projectiles back throw to keep the sizing die lubes but we are not using lube. is is there any way to do it that i should know off

[HI-TEK]

Thanks. The dark ones are from the bottom tray and the lighter ones are from the top tray. I assume that the temp is uneven when my oven doesn't have an air circulation fan.

The cooking time was 12 minutes at 200 C controlled by my PID/SSR box.

It's an easy fix to cook them longer but then they are not gold any more. They are turning more dark broze in colour. This is not a problem if overcooking doesn't hurt the boolits and make them better[emoji106]

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

Again, please take note;
Your PID is controlling oven air temperatures.
It is not controlling radiant heat or actual alloy temperatures.
As you have no fan inside your oven, and you don't measure alloy temperature, the PID is doing its work based on location of the probe, measuring temperature, (but where is probe in comparison to alloy location), but lack of forced air circulation and having two trays inside oven, all seems to have supplied you uneven baking.
If your alloy in top tray is going more Brown, it is possibly affected with Radiant heat. Where is your heating element located in your oven?

If cooked alloy passes all tests, over baking simply darkens colour and there is less chance of residual odours when shooting.
Indications you described, the baked projectiles that had light colour could have been responsible for what was noticed with odours as they were not adequately baked.
The baking process is designed to fully set product, and drive out any residual non used materials inside oven.

[hunter74]

The dark ones is sitting closer to the heating element.

Thank you for all the help. My next test will be to cook them a couple of minutes longer and see what that does about the smell. I guess I have to tolerate my gold boolets beeing closer to bronze[emoji1626] than gold[emoji1628]

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

[HI-TEK]

The dark ones is sitting closer to the heating element.

Thank you for all the help. My next test will be to cook them a couple of minutes longer and see what that does about the smell. I guess I have to tolerate my gold boolets beeing closer to bronze[emoji1626] than gold[emoji1628]

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

No problems with helping, my pleasure. (unfortunately or fortunately I have been doing such diagnosis far too long)
Looking at pictures generally reveals a lot of things that helps me to point towards right direction.

If you can get your hands on an Infra Red laser thermometer, (you can but them on Ebay), as I suspect, if you measure alloy temperature on top tray will be much higher than you think and it will be totally different to PID temperature.
When Gold gets to more Bronze, my guess is that your alloy may be around 220C on top tray, and much less on bottom tray.
That is why fan forced ovens cure uneven bakes. (mini Cyclone inside oven is ideal) and that way all the load will bake evenly and get to cure temperature much faster.
If you are doing a lot, may be I can suggest, that you invest in a fan forced oven. A second hand household free standing oven with fan can be obtained very cheaply or for nothing.

[Petander]

Those IR- meters are handy.

I couldn't believe my individual bullet readings at first, I had two thermometers in the oven reading 200 and still some bullets hit 225 when I shot them with IR. That was with a small "toaster", not my favorite.

Nowadays I can almost "bake with my nose",I get a smile on my face after a few minutes bake when I smell the curing is starting. But the same smell when shooting means the cure was not complete,been there too.

A big household oven with air circulation made baking very easy. It's the one on top in the pic.


234534

[hunter74]

I'm sure you guys are right. I have an IR thermometer so you're right about too low temps and hot/cool spots in the oven.

One other thing I noticed was that the temp went waaaay down when the door was open to get the trays installed. No suprice there, but it took 5 - 8 minutes before the oven reached 200 c again. That was a surprise to me! Therefore I should at least increase baking time with 8 minutes, right. My next test will be 4 trays at 22 minutes. Starting my clock when trays are inserted.

I'm on the lookout for an oven with fan but for now I'll have to work with what I have.

Thanks again!

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[Petander]

I would try with one tray only,especially when there's no air circulation.

Less load for the oven,less initial temp drop. A big load of lead will warm up very unevenly, you may get both under- and overbaked that way.

The bottom oven in my pic has no fan,it's a challenge to bake with.

[HI-TEK]

I'm sure you guys are right. I have an IR thermometer so you're right about too low temps and hot/cool spots in the oven.

One other thing I noticed was that the temp went waaaay down when the door was open to get the trays installed. No suprice there, but it took 5 - 8 minutes before the oven reached 200 c again. That was a surprise to me! Therefore I should at least increase baking time with 8 minutes, right. My next test will be 4 trays at 22 minutes. Starting my clock when trays are inserted.

I'm on the lookout for an oven with fan but for now I'll have to work with what I have.

Thanks again!

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

hunter
I hate to be negative, but if your oven cannot provide even bake with two trays, how are you going to fix it by baking 4 trays?

In my previous reply. I did not refer to your element being too close to tray of cast. In 22 minutes, they will be dark brown, and others will be not cooked.

Opening oven, I presume that it is winter there and air temperatures are close to Zero C. If that is the case, no wonder your oven chills quickly.

I am sorry, but I think you may be doing a lot of work, ending up with large variations in finished product, that may give high level of variations as well.

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=hunter74;4557165]I'm sure you guys are right. I have an IR thermometer so you're right about too low temps and hot/cool spots in the oven.

Hunter, please look at my Facebook site. Below is link.
It shows with pictures, how over cooked coatings behave.
Your results should be similar.
If you like it please share it with your friends. Thank you.

https://www.facebook.com/JM-Specialized-Products-278002006203240/?modal=admin_todo_tour

[Conditor22]

Joe, love the pictures. For us in the US, It would be nice if they were all labeled with the names Donnie sells the colors as and how many coats of HiTek were on them.
Cheers

[Avenger442]

Hunter74
When I first started it was with a used convection oven that I bought at a yard sale for $15. It had poor air circulation, didn't maintain temperature well even after adding a brick in the bottom and would only handle one tray. Yet it produced coated bullets that performed well in my .308 rifle. 1 1/2" groups at 100 yards typical sometimes under an inch and no lead in the barrel. You can do shoot-able bullets in a cheap oven. Joe is right you can bake them almost black and their still good to go. But if you want consistent color and good performance it will take the PID you have and some heavy air circulation. Some are actually covering the elements to keep the direct heat off the bullets.

My new oven has better, while not cyclone, air circulation. If I decide I just have to have a consistent color, something I rarely do, I bake one tray in the middle of the oven with about five pounds of bullets. My oven with that load and after the temp is at 200C for a few minutes before loading bullets then wait till it recovers temp before timing will bake the bullets in 10 min. If I'm not after consistent color but volume I'll load two trays 10 pounds total and after the oven has been at 200C for a few minutes I'll put the trays in wait for temp to recover and bake for 12 min. Against advice from some, I also use a cheap temp verified thermometer in the tray to start the timer. And the PID is set so that thermometer maintains bake temp throughout the process. A far cry from the $15 yard sale oven by itself. Since the infrared thermometers are so cheap now I've considered purchasing one of them.

If I had money to throw in that direction or if I were going to produce commercially I would probably buy a used commercial convection oven. They don't use the same placement of the heating elements that exposes them to the lead and the fans produce a lot of circulation. You can get one of the counter top ones used for around $300. Consistent color all the time with volume. But I spend too much on my guns to go that route. I can have the usable coated bullets with a convection oven costing less than $100.

Joe
You asked me what I thought of the Facebook site and I would say you have an excellent start to a resource all of us can use. And now we can not only send new guys to Donnie's site but to your Facebook page. I don't remember seeing that atomic logo before. Nice touch. Is it new?

[Avenger442]

How close to Canberra Australia are any of you guys?

[Tazza]

How close to Canberra Australia are any of you guys?

About a 14 hour drive from me, i'm in Brisbane, north of Canberra. Trevor is south of me, so he has to be a fair bit closer, not that he wants to be, Canberra is where the politicians live, making all the bad dissensions we need to abide by (trying to take our guns)..... Like i assume Washington is over there?

[Avenger442]

I hear that that is where Google is testing their newest spy platform. What a coincidence.

[Ausglock]

Canberra is about 10 hrs South. Full of soy Latte' sipping politicians with no clue about the real world.

Best thing about Canberra is the Australian War Memorial. Outstanding place and very moving emotionally.
Lest we forget.

[Petander]

My mini 600 watt "toaster convection oven" also blows the air from the outside. It only has on/off switch for the fan. It's almost freezing in the room ... absolutely useless oven for €30. Well,in summer it makes good fries,although uneven. But outside temp determines the inside temp,oh man...

The big household wall oven (2000 watts) is in an outside shed,well below freezing. It has everything controlled,including the air intake. Same temps all year round for €50.

Coating bullets in a wrong oven is like trying to use a wrong size wrench.

[Tazza]

I use an old free standing oven from the in-laws, the elements for heating pots and pans on the top were burnt out, but the oven is just fine. It has cooked a good 400,000 projectiles.

People are always upgrading their ovens, you should be able to pick up one for free or almost free. A toaster oven is great for the fact it's compact, so you can put it away and not use up much space.

[dansedgli]

Anyone know where I can get an 09-180 or 09-170 BB RN mold for my master caster?

I've emailed magma but it's not on their list.

[Petander]

I use an old free standing oven from the in-laws, the elements for heating pots and pans on the top were burnt out, but the oven is just fine. It has cooked a good 400,000 projectiles.

People are always upgrading their ovens, you should be able to pick up one for free or almost free. A toaster oven is great for the fact it's compact, so you can put it away and not use up much space.

You really have been baking! :O

S/H ovens really are everywhere. A $1000 oven becomes a $50 oven in a couple of years. Money aside but I really feel that I wasted some time and effort, trying to learn coating with a new,cheap "toaster convection oven". I use it for drying coated bullets on top of it now.

[Tazza]

You can try CBE in Australia:
http://www.castbulletengineering.com.au/bullet-moulds/pistol/35-and-9mm-calibre?Page=2&Items=12

You will probably need to get them machined to fit your machine though. Worth asking their advise.

[Tazza]

You really have been baking! :O

S/H ovens really are everywhere. A $1000 oven becomes a $50 oven in a couple of years. Money aside but I really feel that I wasted some time and effort, trying to learn coating with a new,cheap "toaster convection oven". I use it for drying coated bullets on top of it now.

I have indeed been busy, but the commercial boys will have way more than that up their sleeve :)

I remember the issues you had with your toaster oven, shame it caused so many issues, but at least you worked it all out.

[hunter74]

One stupid question....... Does hitek work with black powder loads?

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[Tazza]

No reason why not

[Petander]

One stupid question....... Does hitek work with black powder loads?

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

There's no stupid questions.

I even coat my shotgun slugs because my "economy slugs" (re-filled factory trap rounds) usually wreck the shotcups pretty good.

( Here where I live, loading slugs like that costs only half compared to using separate components.)

I also load proper slugs,much prefer coated for handling & coding.

[Michael J. Spangler]

Didn't do a smash test on the last batch of 9MM bullets. I don't think they dried long enough so I had some flaking.
The coating is on there pretty decent so I'm going to shoot some for the heck of it.
I guess I was too impatient with the 30 degree weather in the workshop.
Ah well the good thing about lead is if it doesn't work I can always recycle it into new bullets.

[Conditor22]

I always use a fan in a rack to dry my boolits until they are 110% dry then I set the tray of boolits on my oven and warm them for 1 bake cycle. Don't like wasting8 pounds of boolits having to smelt and start over

[Michael J. Spangler]

I always use a fan in a rack to dry my boolits until they are 110% dry then I set the tray of boolits on my oven and warm them for 1 bake cycle. Don't like wasting8 pounds of boolits having to smelt and start over


Yeah I was a little rushed and now I'm paying for it.
I haven't had any time to cast lately and I was all out of 9mm so I rushed my way through and now I'm still out of 9mm :veryconfu

[Avenger442]

One stupid question....... Does hitek work with black powder loads?

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

Yes, but. Hi Tek will not take the place of your greased patch. To keep fouling from the black powder soft you still need the grease.
I loaded some 44 magnum shells with Hi Tek bullets when I was making my own black powder. They had a dab of homemade grease on the bottom of the bullet with a cardboard wad to separate it from the powder charge. The rounds shot decent at 25 yards out of a Ruger Redhawk but obviously not magnum. Didn't do this again as I was just interested in seeing how the powder would work in that cartridge. The coating probably added some speed and may have kept some lead out of the rifling? Now have a 45-70 and may try that rifle with a black powder load and Hi Tek. Only trouble is the black powder is messy, as you probably know.

One of the advantages, at least for me, of the Hi Tek coating is it keeps the cleaning chore lighter. I recently shot 100+ rounds through my .380 using Hi Tek coated bullets. The barrel had some powder residue and nothing else. It has been the same with my other guns.

[Ausglock]

Happy Australia Day.
https://i.imgur.com/ii2zS6x.jpg

[Tazza]

heheh

The evil aussie drop bear

[ioon44]

Yeah I was a little rushed and now I'm paying for it.
I haven't had any time to cast lately and I was all out of 9mm so I rushed my way through and now I'm still out of 9mm :veryconfu

I use a heat source to dry coated bullets in cold weather, fan with heater, wood stove, any thing to get the bullets up to 120 deg F for 15 min to 30 min, cold weather just makes drying harder to do. I don't think a fan with out any heat will do any drying in 30 deg F weather.

[Michael J. Spangler]

I use a heat source to dry coated bullets in cold weather, fan with heater, wood stove, any thing to get the bullets up to 120 deg F for 15 min to 30 min, cold weather just makes drying harder to do. I don't think a fan with out any heat will do any drying in 30 deg F weather.

My last batch i put into an old worn out toaster oven with the door open. It was just warm in there and did the trick nicely on some .360 round balls I was coating.
Today I'm going to bring them into the house and set them in front of the blower for the coal stove. Should dry them nicely.

[ioon44]

I would leave them out side for 30 min to let the Acetone flash off as much as it will in cold temp, before bringing them in the house.
I have done this and set them on the wood stove until they get to hot to touch then put them on the floor for 30 min.
So far my wife's nose alarm hasn't gone off doing this in the house.

[Avenger442]

I doesn't get as cold here as in some places. Been in 20s F at night. We sometimes see below 0F but rarely. My basement stays between 40F and 60F in the winter with a small heater. Also run a dehumidifier down there so it is about 45% humidity. My bullets dry, first coat, over night usually. Sometimes less than an hour. Second and third, most of the time, less than an hour. I have some down there right now that had the third coat put on about two days ago. Just have been busy and haven't baked them. I don't know of a time limit on waiting to bake. The longest I remember waiting was two weeks.

They still bake good with dust on them:bigsmyl2:.

inoon44
It is funny how God gave our wives what I call the "atomic nose". Mine can smell my shoes in the next room. She really loves it when I bake the bullets and she is home. So I just wait until she goes to work.

[Conditor22]

Yeah I was a little rushed and now I'm paying for it.
I haven't had any time to cast lately and I was all out of 9mm so I rushed my way through and now I'm still out of 9mm :veryconfu

What's that old saying --
"the hurrier you go the behinder you get" [smilie=s::bigsmyl2:

[Michael J. Spangler]

What's that old saying --
"the hurrier you go the behinder you get" [smilie=s::bigsmyl2:
You said it!

Today i brought the batches into the house and popped them on top of a 20 pound barbel that I put on top of the coal stove.
10 or 15 minutes there before they went back out to the shop and they cooked up fast. Pre heat helped for sure!
Passed the smash test beautifully. I cast up about an akro bin full of 9mm to play with and some lee 312-155 to go with them. All sized up along with a heaping akro bin of 358156 which got lubed with white label 2500 plus.
I cast some with a new lee 405 grain 457 and sizing didn't go so well as they drop at .454 to .455. Guess that one's going back

[TonyN]

I have some range lead to cast and coat. It's around 8-10 BHN. Would 3 to 4 coats of Hi-Tek coating work enouph for this soft of lead in 9mm? Anyone coat with 4 coats to give extra protection?

[Tazza]

I do three coats on the exact same lead without issues. I could get away with two coats, but i go for a third just to be sure and make them "pretty"

[TonyN]

The thing is I had to end up using 120 ml per 20 grams because if it didnt as the 100ml per 20 grams instructions say then I have horrible leading. Once I use the 120 ml I have zero leading. I did 3 coats with the 120 ml and It was covered 100% with the kryptonite green but it looked then. I could use my nail to scratch the coating if if I was ruff with it. Wouldn't the barrel tear the coating off? I ended up doing 4 coats with the kryptonite green and the old gold colors. The smash and wipe test all passed amazing.
I like the old gold color.. very nice and uniformed. 10 min. At 400 F on a full size house convection oven.

Also I put my 5 lbs of projectiles on the top of the highest tray. Would there be and air flow or advantages if I put them on the middle rack?

Question for Ausiglock.

How many lbs do you put in your oven at one given time?

[Ausglock]

I run 2 trays. one on the low, one on the middle rack.
2.5Kg on each tray. 5Kg per load. 7 1/2 mins at 200 deg C.

I have a new oven to try. it will take 4 trays 10KG total in 10 mins at 200 degC

[Conditor22]

5 kg = 11.0231 pounds -- 22.0462 pounds total

Remember, this is not your regular countertop oven, this is a kitchen PID controlled oven with heat sinks.

The faster an oven can get back to 200°C 400°F the shorter the bake time

[HI-TEK]

5 kg = 11.0231 pounds -- 22.0462 pounds total

Remember, this is not your regular countertop oven, this is a kitchen PID controlled oven with heat sinks.

The faster an oven can get back to 200°C 400°F the shorter the bake time

Conditor,
To an extent, I agree with your summary.
However, heating elements can be possibly at 400-600 degrees Celsius. Some glow Red which is higher in temperature.
Heating/baking time for a specific load not only depends on well controlled heating elements, but the heat transfer rate into the load after the air is heated.
Transferring heat from air inside oven onto alloy load, is required to be done as quickly and evenly as possible.
That heat transfer onto load of alloy, can be ideally obtained by having a cyclone air circulation inside the oven.
This eliminated hot and cold spots, and the load bakes evenly irrespective of the location inside oven.
Simply, if heated air is circulated well, this speeds up heat transfer to alloy to the correct baking temperature required to properly bake the load, and this is what controls baking time with a specific load.
Many seem to concentrate on oven temperature. In some fashion this is correct but misleading. What is required is that you have adequate heating capacity for a load inside a closed cabinet, and with plenty of air circulation.
Monitoring of alloy load temperature is more important. You may have an indication at a specific point inside your oven, showing air temperature at 200C, but that will not guarantee that the same heat contained in oven air you are measuring, is being transferred to alloy efficiently or adequately.
Your PID may say 200C, but what is alloy temperatures at that time? Your air can be hot, but that will not tell you if alloy is at correct temperature at that time.

[HI-TEK]

I run 2 trays. one on the low, one on the middle rack.
2.5Kg on each tray. 5Kg per load. 7 1/2 mins at 200 deg C.

I have a new oven to try. it will take 4 trays 10KG total in 10 mins at 200 degC

Ausglock you forgotten to mention that you have high speed internal fans that circulate heated air well, and produces results with short baking times, as alloy load gets to correct bake temperature very quickly with using fan forced air circulation.

[HI-TEK]

The thing is I had to end up using 120 ml per 20 grams because if it didnt as the 100ml per 20 grams instructions say then I have horrible leading.
My Reply to this. What someone advised you as above is incorrect advice. The concentration of mix has nothing to do with Leading. Please totally forget that advice. What is important, that you use on first coat, (irrespective of mix ratio) just barely enough to cover alloy. Quickly shake coat and dump whilst still wet. The most important this at this point is, that you thoroughly dry the first coat well. I cant stress this enough. If you first coat is not dried enough, irrespective of your mixture composition you will get failures.

Once I use the 120 ml I have zero leading.
My reply. This is a mere coincidence

I did 3 coats with the 120 ml and It was covered 100% with the kryptonite green but it looked then. I could use my nail to scratch the coating if if I was ruff with it.
If you can scratch coating off with your finger nails, your drying and possibly baking is inadequate.

Wouldn't the barrel tear the coating off? I ended up doing 4 coats with the kryptonite green and the old gold colors. The smash and wipe test all passed amazing.
If you want to coat using 4 coats it is OK. This has nothing to do with what you describe being able to scratch off the coating. What you seem to miss is, that one coat in most instances will work. The inference you are making is, that thick coats fix things. NOT AT ALL a good theory.

I like the old gold color.. very nice and uniformed. 10 min. At 400 F on a full size house convection oven.

Also I put my 5 lbs of projectiles on the top of the highest tray. Would there be and air flow or advantages if I put them on the middle rack?

Question for Ausiglock.

How many lbs do you put in your oven at one given time?

Tony N
I have recollection of you asking questions for nearly a year, and you did not have success. Eventually you sold the coatings. That same coatings were then used by buyer and worked.
I am curious why you again are trying the coatings? More interestingly, you seem to again have almost identical problems as previously.
I am puzzled.

[Ausglock]

I baked a few 1000 tonight, Cause I was bored. I shot the bullets with the IR thermo through a crack in the oven door. at 6 mins they read 205 Deg C.

The oven, from cold takes 8 minutes to get to working temp of 200Deg C.

If I want to do 3 trays in this oven, I increase time to 8 1/2 mins.

[Stephen Cohen]

The thing is I had to end up using 120 ml per 20 grams because if it didnt as the 100ml per 20 grams instructions say then I have horrible leading. Once I use the 120 ml I have zero leading. I did 3 coats with the 120 ml and It was covered 100% with the kryptonite green but it looked then. I could use my nail to scratch the coating if if I was ruff with it. Wouldn't the barrel tear the coating off? I ended up doing 4 coats with the kryptonite green and the old gold colors. The smash and wipe test all passed amazing.
I like the old gold color.. very nice and uniformed. 10 min. At 400 F on a full size house convection oven.

Also I put my 5 lbs of projectiles on the top of the highest tray. Would there be and air flow or advantages if I put them on the middle rack?

Question for Ausiglock.

How many lbs do you put in your oven at one given time?
The use of extra acetone as you describe, does not cure leading it actually thins down the mix and makes it easier to get a thin even coat on first coating. I actually use this mix on my first coat as well, take note of what HI-TEK said about it being important the first coat is a thin one. If you take the advice offered by Joe and Ausglock you will be well pleased with results. Regards Stephen

[TonyN]

I never sold the powder.. I ended up keeping it. I bought that convection oven and I just washed them in acetone and now I'm finally getting acetone test that passes and smash test. My question is. If I do 120 ML would that thin the coating to much? I have done 3 colors that look really nice and they all turn out nice. I have done 4 coats. No big deal as I coat and dry for 5 min under a box fan then bake 5 lbs for 10 min. I have taken one out after 8 and 9 min. And they didnt pass. So 10 min. Is the bare min. Why do I keep trying your product? Something in my heart tells me to keep going back to it.. I would also like to hear from more that shot this in 9 to 10 BHN?
I would like to see you make some blue or orange colors.

[TonyN]

Stephen you telling me you do 120 ml first coat and last 2 coats you have another hatched maid up and do 100 ml with 2 coats? Will 120 ml with 3 coats not be enouph to protect?

[hunter74]

I use 120ml accetone on 2 coats. Seem to work great. Great cover and with the 20 ml extra accetone it's easier to get a full coat on traditional boolits with lube groove. Not that it matters, but it looks nicer with the whole boolit covered.

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

[Conditor22]

I do 100ml on the first coat but I use 10% less coating per pound. I mix 10 gr powder to 50 ml acetone if I am planning on doing a bigger batch of one color I'll go 20 to 100

Joe, All my ovens are convection type with heatsinks (heat retaining media covering the bottom between the elements)
I've never been too concerned with the boolit temperature during baking (I don't have a good way to test that) I've had success by Just with getting the oven up to 200/400° as fast as possible with good air circulation. I determine proper bake time for my ovens by testing the boolits at the end.

To those who use countertop ovens without a PID, you should recalibrate the oven setting every time the surrounding room air temperature changes more than a few degrees. due to the design/location of the oven thermometer, it is affected by room temperature

[HI-TEK]

The use of extra acetone as you describe, does not cure leading it actually thins down the mix and makes it easier to get a thin even coat on first coating. I actually use this mix on my first coat as well, take not of what HI-TEK said about it being important the first coat is a thin one. If you take the advice offered by Joe and Ausglock you will be well pleased with results. Regards Stephen

Stephen,
Thank you for kind words.
Tony was on this web site about a year ago. He was having all sorts of problems, and was asking for help.
Many on this site, and including supplier of the coatings gave many and lengthy credible and practical advice, over a 12 month period. In the end I became so frustrated with trying to help, and that help being ignored, and questions continued coming relentlessly with no resolution.
I was contacted by a moderator after I displayed my impatience, and, after I explained what was going on, it was decided that Tony will not coat again. The moderator contacted Tony, and a deal was struck.
12 months later, Tony has obviously purchased more coating, and we are back to square one with failures and many questions asking for help.
The problems seem to be that Tony wants to use products, but will not follow advice, yet again.
I hate to say it, but I find it very difficult to hold back my frustration that is starting to emerge again.
My suggested solution is, that if someone is living close to Tony, who has successfully used the coatings, would they be prepared to offer hands on advice at a suitable venue?
Any takers?

[Ausglock]

Yeah... I gave up, in the end...
As they say.... You can't help someone that doesn't want to be helped.
And.... you can lead a horse to water, but can't make him drink.

[Avenger442]

I can go help Tony if he wants it and he is close enough. Made that offer the last time we were trying to help. Where does he live? U.S.?

But I'm not sure he is going to be able to use that 8BHN lead in a 9mm, no matter what he has on it. Or how well it is applied.

[hunter74]

I hope it's OK if i post a question, I hope it's not posted before.

Does Black K-15 offer other coating properties than other colors that makes it better in any way?

I'm in the process of order some different coatings to try them out. I'm interested in only using 2 coats so good cover is essential.

I'm thinking Black K-15 and Candy Apple Red. Any other I should consider?


Today I'm testing out a different kitchen oven with an air fan, so I'm hoping to avoid hot/cold spots and to get better results.


Thanks again!

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

[Ausglock]

K15 covers really well with 2 coats of 20gms:100mls, 6mls per coat for 2.5Kg of bullets.
It doesn't have the heat reflection properties of the metallics.
Candy Apple is my pick of the reds and it is metallic.

[ioon44]

I have great results with Candy Apple Red using 125 ml/20 g for the first coat and 100 ml/20 g for the second coat. Any one trying to coat in cold weather need's a heat source for drying the coating, just using a fan in cold weather will not dry the coating.
I make sure I get the coated bullets up to 120 deg F for 20 minutes, this maybe over kill but I don't have any failures of the coating.

[Gremlin460]

I musty be doing something wrong. Years of using Hi-tek and have never had leading or problems since I upped the bhn to 12 ish.
Can anyone help?

[hunter74]

Besides being nice to look at, what does the metalics do that the non-metallics can't?

It may be a strange question to you but I'm a total noob at this[emoji848]

By the way, my oven seems to work great so I guess your guyes were right there! It's easier to get good results with an hot air fan in the oven. I cured 2 trays of 9mm with 5 kg on each tray in the oven for 12 minutes. No discolouration, and my IR temp showed alloy temp up to 200 C after 7-8 minutes.

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

[Conditor22]

Besides being nice to look at, what does the metalics do that the non-metallics can't?

"It doesn't have the heat reflection properties of the metallics."

Work a little better for hotter/faster rifle loads

[Conditor22]

K15 covers really well with 2 coats of 20gms:100mls, 6mls per coat.
It doesn't have the heat reflection properties of the metallics.
Candy Apple is my pick of the reds and it is metallic.

How many boolits are you coating with the 6mls solution??

I use 1 mil per pound, 10% less on my first coat

[hunter74]

I use 20 ml sollution on 10 kg.

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

[Avenger442]

I musty be doing something wrong. Years of using Hi-tek and have never had leading or problems since I upped the bhn to 12 ish.
Can anyone help?

Grem
Maybe you should try another coating sold in hardware stores to see if you could get some type of failure. If you do I'm sure there is someone on this forum that will help with your problems. Or maybe some 8BHN in .223 with no gas check.

[Ausglock]

Grem...
your problems as I see them.
1. Pommy Brasstard.
2. Old
3. QLDer
4.Pommy Brasstard.
5. did I mention Old???

[Ausglock]

How many boolits are you coating with the 6mls solution??

I use 1 mil per pound, 10% less on my first coat

6mls per 2.5Kg of bullets works fine.

[Conditor22]

Thanks, Trevor

2.5Kg == 5.51156 pounds
6mls per - 5.51156 pounds


BTW, you play cricket? :bigsmyl2:

[HI-TEK]

"It doesn't have the heat reflection properties of the metallics."

Work a little better for hotter/faster rifle loads


Conditor,
You are correct. In many instances, when not using gas checks, the coatings with metallic seem to take higher loads, there seems less possibility of gas cutting as the coating reflects heat well.

Quite some time ago, Gateway Bullet company did a video where this heat resistance was demonstrated. This is link to that video.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6xfaIp4RVEjbLTV4m25gzQ

I believe that there are other such tests, as I recall someone cooking coated projectiles on a steel plate barbeque. The Steel plate was glowing Red with heat and the coating seemed to prevent heat melting the Lead alloy.

There may be others who did other tests. One I recall, was someone who froze the coated alloy to minus 40C. Then let it come back to room temperature and it passed all tests.

This Hi-Tek is certainly strange stuff.

[Petander]

My Hi-Tek coated 45-70 works normally in minus 20°C & 1950 fps, 325 grain plinker.

I didn't even think about it until now,my ammo definitely got down to outside temp one day last week. I was chronoing shotgun slugs but also had some 45-70 fun afterwards.

235009

[Avenger442]

Petander
What loading press are you using with your shotgun shells?

[Stephen Cohen]

Trevor have you heard the old saying about Poms, you can tell a Pom anywhere your just can't tell him much. Regards Stephen.

[Ausglock]

Thanks, Trevor

2.5Kg == 5.51156 pounds
6mls per - 5.51156 pounds


BTW, you play cricket? :bigsmyl2:

Funny you should say that.
My grandfathers were avid cricket fans and I was named after a cricket legend from back in the 1940's 50's.

But... I hate Cricket...... I like Shooting..

[hunter74]

So, the metallic coating are both better to look at and better at magnum/rifle loads without gc than a non-metallic coating?

Sounds like a win-win situation[emoji108]

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

[Ausglock]

One day... when I get motivated and have time.
I will make a video of how to mix, apply and bake the HITEK powdered coating.
So even people that can't read instructions, can understand the process. That is assuming their eyes are not painted on.

[HI-TEK]

One day... when I get motivated and have time.
I will make a video of how to mix, apply and bake the HITEK powdered coating.
So even people that can't read instructions, can understand the process. That is assuming their eyes are not painted on.



Hang on, not so fast.
How will you guarantee, that after you write out step by step how to do things, that this will help?
We need your video not just words on a paper. Who read instructions any way???? LOL

[Ausglock]

I'll have to charge the battery in the GoPro....

[Avenger442]

So, the metallic coating are both better to look at and better at magnum/rifle loads without gc than a non-metallic coating?

Sounds like a win-win situation[emoji108]

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

No gas check? That depends on your lead BHN and other things like pressure. Hi Tek is a good lube not a jacket. I shot some of the Hi Tek with three coats of 1035 Gold, a metallic, in my .308 without gas checks at around 2700 fps as an experiment and it did lead the barrel a little. Took Chore Boy and about 10 min to get it out.

Do I believe that Hi Tek is better than other lubes. I'll say this, I've shot PC and grease/wax lubes and it is better than what I have used in one way or another. Can you go full house with 12 BHN lead in a rifle without gas checks. No. Remember even jacketed bullets leave something to clean out of the rifling with heavy loads.

[Gremlin460]

Grem...
your problems as I see them.
1. Pommy Brasstard.
2. Old
3. QLDer
4.Pommy Brasstard.
5. did I mention Old???

So what you trying to say??

[Ausglock]

So what you trying to say??

I love you, man... But not in a gay way.....not that there is anything wrong with that......Whatever floats your boat..

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=Conditor22;The faster an oven can get back to 200°C 400°F the shorter the bake time[/QUOTE]

I agree with your statement to an extent.
Temperature recovery and baking time, and results obtained, is mainly influenced by fan inside oven circulating heated air.
Generally, heating elements have plenty of heating capacity, but you must get heat produced into the load of coated alloy.
The only way that is possible is a mini cyclone air circulation.
I have said this many many time before.
It is not oven temperature is what is important, but the actual temperature load of coated projectiles is.

Again I repeat, please all take note;
The coatings, (especially with first coat) must be bone dry, irrespective of coating mixture composition.

Composition/concentration of mix being used, is not all that important if what ever is used is dried adequately and thoroughly.

The load in oven, must get to 180C, or above, and then stay there for another 3 minutes.
(The temperature monitoring of coated alloy load inside oven, governs how long any load is in the oven for correct cure, not how long air temperature of heated air gets to correct set temperatures.)

Irrespective of load into oven, this must be followed for success.

It is no good measuring hot air temperature in oven, when that heat contained in hot air is not transferred to the load being cooked.
Simple as that.

I have tried desperately to explain, that hot air is a poor conductor of heat. The hot air, must be circulated (the faster the better) to transfer contained heat into whatever you are baking. The faster air is circulated, the faster load get to desired temperature, and this controls time inside oven as well.
Many think, that if air is hot, all is well. Nooooo. Please measure loaded alloy temperature. That will provide all answers.

[TonyN]

Avenger442 I have something for you. Check.your P.M.

Also I for sure can say that I went from a oven without a fan to now having a fan and I can for sure say there is a big difference.

[Petander]

Look Ma,Zombie Slugs:

235254

These are 12 gauge fullbore slugs,coating makes life so much better.

[Conditor22]

I agree with you, Joe Since I started coating I noticed;

#1 problem with HiTek failure coating, not 100% dry before baking
#2 ovens not reaching 200/400° due to dial setting being off (this is true with Powder coating also)
#3 people swirl the boolits to long
#4 people just refuse to follow the instructions

[Avenger442]

Well I'm back to not being able to post photos from my computer again. And no I'm not going to store off site. I know it is a solution.

For what it is worth, I was going to post examples of smash test failure; pass with a little dusting and pass. Also rub test failure; pass with a little color on the cloth and pass. If you want them give me an email to send them to. All but the rub test failure and the smash test failure will shoot well.

[Petander]

Well I'm back to not being able to post photos from my computer again. And no I'm not going to store off site. I know it is a solution.



Is your onboard storage full? I keep deleting old pics (using profile control panel) to be able to post new. Deleting pics makes posts sort of meaningless but well...

[Avenger442]

It was still showing me in the green. But I went ahead and deleted a couple of pages of images anyway. Will try later to post photos.

[Conditor22]

(I don't know for sure) IF you can pay for more storage usage on CB.

Dumb question, (I often have brain farts) -- did you downsize the pictures to 200k or smaller?

[Ausglock]

imgur is Sooooooooooooooooo easy....and the pictures are full size...
https://i.imgur.com/r7TgUSt.jpg

[Tazza]

So pretty!

[Ausglock]

So accurate!!

[Tazza]

Not if i was shooting it :) i know my guns shoot far better than i can. I need to find more trigger time, that's for sure

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

I disliked the long dust cover and bull bbl on mine. Trimmed the dust cover, lightened the slide with a BHP cut, tri-topped the slide and lightened it internally. Replaced the bull barrel with a bushing barrel.
This was done before STI started offering the Marauder.

https://i.imgur.com/nUHU4jl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ymgHOum.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nR47yTU.jpg

[Avenger442]

(I don't know for sure) IF you can pay for more storage usage on CB.

Dumb question, (I often have brain farts) -- did you downsize the pictures to 200k or smaller?

That is something I haven't tried. Most of my photos are taken with my phone. I'm not even sure what the count is on those photos.
How do you reduce the photo after it is taken?

[Conditor22]

442, I don't know what platform your photos are on.
Try googling resizing photos on your platform.

I use IMGUR to post pictures you can select what size you want the pictures to be stored on IMGUR or you can re-size them on imgur.

on windows 10 I have a program called PaperPort I use.

I'm sure there are a ton of free apps you can download.

[Tazza]

I disliked the long dust cover and bull bbl on mine. Trimmed the dust cover, lightened the slide with a BHP cut, tri-topped the slide and lightened it internally. Replaced the bull barrel with a bushing barrel.
This was done before STI started offering the Marauder.

https://i.imgur.com/nUHU4jl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ymgHOum.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nR47yTU.jpg

Did you find the lightning helped much? I have a 2011 executive, it has a bull barrel, quite heavy but it does pretty well with controlling recoil. I find a mad mates glock bounces around a fair bit, i suspect because it's lighter. I can see it cycling faster with the lighter slide though.

[Ausglock]

I'm partial to the BHP cut on the slide. Thinking of getting it done to a Para GI Expert Stainless in 45ACP. already had the slide flat topped.

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Tazza,
My 2011 is in 9mm and in it's stock form I found it to feel very clunky while shooting it. I prefer a lighter pistol as it swings faster and stops faster on target, What goes back, must go forward and a lighter slide helps in reducing muzzle dip. At least that's what I keep telling myself. ;-) Glocks, particularly in .40 cal are very snappy recoil wise.

Trevor, BHP cuts are especially nice looking on a slide that has standard rear serrations and the BHP cut could be made more vertical. I had to work with the slanted serrations on both ends of slide.

[Tazza]

I totally agree, lighter means you can move and stop faster on target. I never thought about the slide forward movement, i only thought about the recoil pulling the muzzle upwards, but it makes complete sense.

I must have been lucky with mine, i got it second hand and the guy i bought it off got a fair bit of work done, it was smooth as silk, apart from the fact he installed a stupidly light recoil spring, so much so that on a full 10 round mag, it would not always strip a round off. Factory spring and non girly loads fixed that issue.

[Ausglock]

I removed the STI recoil master from mine and fitted a Victor Precision stainless toolless guiderod with a variable wolff 9lb spring. super sweet. Thinking of getting VP to do a matt finish hardchrome on the gun.

[Tazza]

The tool-less guide rod is awesome, i have one in mine.

The hard chrome will be a great addition. Good way to take up any wear that it may have too.

[Ausglock]

No wear in it. The original owner only put 1000 rounds through it. I got it for a song, and would have put the same through it.

[Stephen Cohen]

The STI become very popular after our second buy back {aka confiscation} I have never held one as I surrendered my pistol licence when I went into hospital with kidney cancer, then I survived. I loved my 1911s and must try a STI one day, by the way those are nice guns. Regards Stephen

[Tazza]

The STI become very popular after our second buy back {aka confiscation} I have never held one as I surrendered my pistol licence when I went into hospital with kidney cancer, then I survived. I loved my 1911s and must try a STI one day, by the way those are nice guns. Regards Stephen

Good to hear you beat it and are still with us.

I like the 1911 STIs, the only thing i didn't like was our 10 round limit, getting a full mag to lock in on a closed slide could be a struggle. The 2011 takes care of this with it's double stack mags.

You do tend to pay more for the STI name, but i feel that's acceptable for what you get.

[Gremlin460]

One day... when I get motivated and have time.
I will make a video of how to mix, apply and bake the HITEK powdered coating.
So even people that can't read instructions, can understand the process. That is assuming their eyes are not painted on.

Waaaaaaaay back in 2015 I did this video :- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svu6oHcd7d0

Now if you substitute Powder Hi Tek for the early 2-part liquid mix, the application is still the same.

20grm/120ml first coat
20grm/110ml second coat

200deg 10.30 mins

Sooooo **** easy......

Mike.

[Ausglock]

Fix ya Typo, Grem.
20gms..... NOT 2 Gms.

[HI-TEK]

Waaaaaaaay back in 2015 I did this video :- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svu6oHcd7d0

Now if you substitute Powder Hi Tek for the early 2-part liquid mix, the application is still the same.

20g/120ml first coat
20g/110ml second coat

200deg 10.30 mins

Sooooo **** easy......

Mike.

Mike, you are 100% correct, it is easy.

Only thing that seems to be missed is that 99.9% failures with adhesion starts with first coat not being dried enough.

First coat, irrespective of coating mix blend composition, requires TOTAL drying before baking.

Applying stronger brews, or over adding coating mixture, simply slows down drying, and will need warm air drying to assist complete drying.
Thick first coats traps moisture, simple as that.
Trapped moisture simply wont dry quickly and completely, and needs extra effort to remove trapped moisture before baking success is achieved.

[kbstenberg]

Gremlin Thanks for the video!! It's a blast from the past. That is relevant today.
I never thought of using a tube for filling the final measuring device.

[Gremlin460]

Gremlin Thanks for the video!! It's a blast from the past. That is relevant today.
I never thought of using a tube for filling the final measuring device.

Not a problem but beware of the fountain fairy!!..

Take empty bottle, tip in 20 grams of powder. Drop in 2-3 bad casts (admit it, we all get one or two). Then add 110-120 mls acetone (nice clean stuff that's been sealed).
Screw on the top of the bottle .. BUT DO NOT INSERT THE TUBE TO THE BOTTOM OF THE BOTTLE <re-read, twice!.
As the powder mixes it off-gasses slightly, If you push the tube to the bottom of the bottle then shake the mixture, you will have an instant fairy fountain.
Coating everywhere! Don't ask how I know this!

I leave the pickup tube almost to the top of the bottle.. the **** fairy has visited once too often.
Let the mix stand say 30 mins or more, give it a shake as you walk past setting the drying area up. THEN when ready push tube to bottom of bottle and off you go.

[HI-TEK]

Gremlin PM sent

[Tazza]

So very true. I get the same pressure build up when coating woth a closed container. Shake shake, carefully open to let the pressure out then seal and finish shaking, then dump out

[HI-TEK]

So very true. I get the same pressure build up when coating woth a closed container. Shake shake, carefully open to let the pressure out then seal and finish shaking, then dump out


You and Gremlin are correct.
The Hi-Tek powdered coatings, when being dissolved, generate some heat and warm the solvent. In a sealed air tight container, this heating/warming is what pressurises that container, as you are also warming/heating air contained in the jar as well.
When you had the tube inside the liquid mixture, the pressure build up due to warming, simply squirted out the liquid mixture.
When mixing in air tight container , careful slow opening of lid, (not whilst shaking) must be done, to slowly release any pressure build up.
To stop any liquid spray coming out of the lid whilst opening, it is easy to put a cloth over lid top whilst screwing open the lid.

[Conditor22]

Not a problem but beware of the fountain fairy!!..

Take empty bottle, tip in 20 grams of powder. Drop in 2-3 bad casts (admit it, we all get one or two). Then add 110-120 mls acetone (nice clean stuff that's been sealed).
Screw on the top of the bottle .. BUT DO NOT INSERT THE TUBE TO THE BOTTOM OF THE BOTTLE <re-read, twice!.
As the powder mixes it off-gasses slightly, If you push the tube to the bottom of the bottle then shake the mixture, you will have an instant fairy fountain.
Coating everywhere! Don't ask how I know this!

I leave the pickup tube almost to the top of the bottle.. the **** fairy has visited once too often.
Let the mix stand say 30 mins or more, give it a shake as you walk past setting the drying area up. THEN when ready push tube to the bottom of bottle and off you go.

The squirting fairy is enough to put a damper on your coating experience. Joe and Grem are so right about the pressure build-up. I've Thai-Dyed several shirts and pants with HiTek before I learned my lesson [smilie=b:[smilie=l::oops::bigsmyl2:

https://i.imgur.com/m5PbFYN.jpg

[Tazza]

The squirting fairy is enough to put a damper on your coating experience. Joe and Grem are so right about the pressure build-up. I've Thai-Dyed several shirts and pants with HiTek before I learned my lesson [smilie=b:[smilie=l::oops::bigsmyl2:

https://i.imgur.com/m5PbFYN.jpg

I have been lucky enough to not be sprayed with Hi-Tek per se, yet i did manage to knock over some that I was just starting to dissolve, 40 grams of powder and a bout 50 ml of acetone was in before i managed to knock it over and hit the floor, so it was the consistency of paint and VERY black, my shoes will never be pretty again.

Those images are so very true, thankfully Brisbane has escaped the insane heat so far this year that has been down south, some places i heard hit just under 50c (122f for our American friends)

[HI-TEK]

We have had 42-47C here for 4 weeks, and overnight temperatures of 30C. Had out air conditioner running day and night, and we had to buy and have installed a second one. I am dreading our new power bill, and may have to pass around a hat...lol...

[Tazza]

We have had 42-47C here for 4 weeks, and overnight temperatures of 30C. Had out air conditioner running day and night, and we had to buy and have installed a second one. I am dreading our new power bill, and may have to pass around a hat...lol...

Jeez..... That is not fun at all, i'm complaining about our day times mid 30s and night temps of 25ish

I hope you get some cooler weather soon, with heat like that, you are confined to your house.

I fear your power bill too, but you have to do what you have to do really :( I had a hidden water leak, so i'm dreading my bill shock too, i fear it will be a few hundred bucks......

[Stephen Cohen]

Jeez..... That is not fun at all, i'm complaining about our day times mid 30s and night temps of 25ish

I hope you get some cooler weather soon, with heat like that, you are confined to your house.

I fear your power bill too, but you have to do what you have to do really :( I had a hidden water leak, so i'm dreading my bill shock too, i fear it will be a few hundred bucks......

I had to read that bit about the hidden water leak twice, I was going to suggest you see my doctor hehehe. Regards Stephen

[Tazza]

I had to read that bit about the hidden water leak twice, I was going to suggest you see my doctor hehehe. Regards Stephen

hahaha thankfully no doctor is required for the leakage i had :)

[Ausglock]

42.9 here today.. 28 tomorrow

[HI-TEK]

42.9 here today.. 28 tomorrow


44 here today, but now we have had a southerly and now it is overcast and temps dropped 10 degrees.. hope it stays that way, as we cant work as shed is at about 50C, (all steel). Many are upset with resulting slow deliveries, but I am now trying to catch up, by working at night when conditions are almost OK.

[Tazza]

Hopefully we missed the worst of it.

We had 36, muggy as, time to find some ac.
I'm sure people will understand that weather slows some things down. Snow storms in the USA, heat wave here....

[Conditor22]

44c = 111.2 f

[Avenger442]

If we could only swap some of our cold for some of your heat. Temp swings here have been 40 F from one day to the next. In shorts one day and the coat the next. Kinda normal in Alabama. There is a saying here "If you don't like the weather today don't worry it will change tomorrow".
235916

I can remember a winter back in the early '60s when we had snow one day and it was 70 F the next.

[Tazza]

In Melbourne, temperature can change hourly, hot to cold, or anything in between. Not sure it's 1 40f swing though. In brisbane, we never get below 2c, and maximum of about 42c, so a swing of about 70f over an entire year, not a daily change like you mention.

It's our nature to ***** about the weather, it's too hot, it's too cold, we can't be kept happy. I'd be happy to take some of your cold weather.

[Ausglock]

From 43 yesterday to 22 today. so much more comfortable today..

[Petander]

This thread needs a cat pic now.

We have had normal winter here,a couple of feet of snow, -5 to -25 °C. Except it has been pouring water lately, +5C right now. Quite a mess everywhere. It's not time for the spring yet.

I think I'd like another colour,Red maybe... because my Ballisti-Cat bought me my first Mihec mold, absolutely fantastic. So I need more colour codes - and red is nice for summer.

236048

[ioon44]

I have used lots of Candy Apple Red and is one of my favorites. I guess my weather here is not to bad only -3 C and light snow.

[Conditor22]

I'm a fan of Black Cherry

[Ausglock]

Candy Apple is very nice.
I'm currently playing with an old bottle of Liquid coating I found lurking in the back of the fridge.
De-frosted the fridge and found it way at the back.
It is Rose Red dated 2013.
Mixed it 5-1-7 with Extreme 2 Catatyst yesterday. Will do some coating over the weekend.

Also found a bottle of 2FR2K red as well.

[Avenger442]

Candy Apple is very nice.
I'm currently playing with an old bottle of Liquid coating I found lurking in the back of the fridge.
De-frosted the fridge and found it way at the back.
It is Rose Red dated 2013.
Mixed it 5-1-7 with Extreme 2 Catatyst yesterday. Will do some coating over the weekend.

Also found a bottle of 2FR2K red as well.

Maybe you could post some photos when finished?

Red is one of the colors that I have not tried. I might have to get with Donnie a try some Candy Apple. It is a metallic right?

[Ausglock]

Maybe you could post some photos when finished?

Red is one of the colors that I have not tried. I might have to get with Donnie a try some Candy Apple. It is a metallic right?

Yes. Candy Apple in Metallic.

[Petander]

I'm a fan of Black Cherry

Me too. My first ever Mihec slugs got Black Cherried.

236170

[OldBearHair]

Hey Trevor, I read where someone said their coated bullets were so slick they could barely pick them up! I would like to have a coating that I could put on a polished steel pipe holding the bird feeder that was slick enough the squirrel couldn't climb it. Is there such a powder avaiable that you know of?

[HI-TEK]

Hey Trevor, I read where someone said their coated bullets were so slick they could barely pick them up! I would like to have a coating that I could put on a polished steel pipe holding the bird feeder that was slick enough the squirrel couldn't climb it. Is there such a powder avaiable that you know of?

We have same problems here with Possums and bush rats as big as cats.
The only thing I found effective is a small solar powered electric fence system. An electric tape is wound onto non conductive arms.
Another way is to split a PVC tube, about 15 -18 inches long, fix it to the pipe at top and bottom edges, then wind the conductive tape around it, and make sure, the tape does not touch any part of the pipe or screws. As critters climb up the steel post and touch the tape, they get a shock. After a few shocks, they wont try again .

I used a solar powered electric fence system to stop foxes, pigs, possums, rats, bats from eating our produce such as Corn, pumpkins and other veggies.

I also make a Fruit fly lure/poison, this attracts fruit flies, that go inside a jar and they become overwhelmed with poison fumes and die. This system is on all trees winter and summer to reduce fruit fly population. No poison is sprayed on any fruit, but I have a clever system, it is a Nylon fine mesh bag with a string tie, and this is put over small fruit that has not been attacked.
I put 3 bags on each bunch of fruit . I have had 100% success in stopping birds, possums, bats and the fruit flies from eating and or damaging the fruit. They simply cant get to the fruit, and bags are slippery and unstable for climbing critters.

Bags are re used each year.

Sorry for non related blog matter.

[Stephen Cohen]

That is some good idea there Joe, We are all here to learn be it post related or not. Regards Stephen

[OldBearHair]

Hey Joe, what you need is one or two of my Old Style Rat Terrier puppies. The sire is Duke , a Lynch bred 30 lb three year old that could take care of those bush rats and possums DRT.

[Tazza]

My parents have the exact same issue with possums and wallabies, they are cute, but eat EVERYTHING. I built walls around gardens with tin roofing so they had nothing to grab on to, it keeps the wallabies out, but not the possums and rats.

Tried an electric fence, didn't work, but if it was done smarter with multiple rows of electric goodness, there is a possibility it would have worked a bit better. One stick or rain on the fence, and it will stop being effective as the electricity sparks over.

Over here we aren't allowed to shoot in our back yards, so we haven't even got that option, these critters may even be protected, so doing so may be a big no no, never looked into it for the first reason.

[Conditor22]

airguns and crossbows are effective

[Tazza]

airguns and crossbows are effective

Sadly over here, both are not allowed to be shot in the back yard. They have even made crossbows licensed as far as i was aware.

If it's fun, the government wants to take it away from us....

[Petander]

airguns and crossbows are effective

Yes... .we got whitetail deer bow-legal two years ago,I was the first in our hunting club to pass the shooting test. The first in the whole county in fact. Now moose is coming bow-legal... meanwhile the authorities are getting more and more rights to confiscate guns from people. What's next,spears? "You don't need firearms,spear is bear legal now!"

[Tazza]

Awesome job on being the first to pass the tests.

I never thought of a bow being powerful enough to take down deer or moose, but that's what they used to use many years ago for taking them down for food.

That's the thing, the politicians say no guns, but what are they protected with? yep, GUNS, do as i say, not as i do.

[Ausglock]

Big Congrats to Dansedgli.
Dan won the Victorian IPSC State titles in Standard Division shooting his cast and coated 168gn ZK in 357Sig.
Well done, Dan.
Try and catchup for a yarn at the Nationals in a few weeks.

[Tazza]

Congrats indeed. Even better that he did it with his own cast projectiles.

I really need to try and make time to do some real IPSC shooting, all I do now is one club level match i run with a mad mate once a month.

[edwin41]

a post on topic ..

after some disapointing results i am really getting some great results with the hitek coating !
i started in real small badges and shaked the boolits to long , and was wayyy off with the mixture.

now i do 200 boolits per cycle , my little toasteroven cant take more , and been reading the supplied users manual i got with the product.
this time the results are very promissing , really love this hitek coating , and if done correctly its superb for my needs.

also , i live in holland and there are no hitek dealers over here.
i contacted joe directly and he went through all the trouble of sending me the miracle-powder per postage.
this means that the guy behind the product really stands behind its product , not in it for the quick profits.

the guys behind the hitek coating are every bit as good as the product itself , and that is saying something !

[Tazza]

Glad yo got it worked out.

I shake mine with a lid on the container to allow it to get some good coverage before the solvent evaporates. It gives me a smooth finish, if you let it evaporate too much, it gets all rough. As far as i'm aware, if you do get a rough finish, you can add more solvent and shake again to dissolve it and give the nice finish again.

I'm with you with your kind words for Joe, he is a very friendly guy, i have enjoyed our chats, very informative. He is very good with getting his goods out as soon as possible, I think mine took two days to arrive.

[dansedgli]

Thanks guys. Was a surprise. The new results system had me down by 38 points at the end of the match before it went offline. ha

[Conditor22]

It's funny how easy it is to get good results with HiTek coating When you follow the instructions [smilie=1:[smilie=s:

[HI-TEK]

a post on topic ..

after some disapointing results i am really getting some great results with the hitek coating !
i started in real small badges and shaked the boolits to long , and was wayyy off with the mixture.

now i do 200 boolits per cycle , my little toasteroven cant take more , and been reading the supplied users manual i got with the product.
this time the results are very promissing , really love this hitek coating , and if done correctly its superb for my needs.

also , i live in holland and there are no hitek dealers over here.
i contacted joe directly and he went through all the trouble of sending me the miracle-powder per postage.
this means that the guy behind the product really stands behind its product , not in it for the quick profits.

the guys behind the hitek coating are every bit as good as the product itself , and that is saying something !

edwin41,
Thanks for kind words. Much appreciated.
I am glad you have had success.
Unfortunately, we don't have an agent in Europe. We have some commercial casters who are willing to re-sell some coatings, but they have limited colours at this stage for their own use. Unfortunately sending small packs is very costly business and no way around it.
Joe

[marky123]

Adi aps350 in 9mm
You 'Strayans got any data for it yet?

[Ausglock]

Joe????? Kind????? Friendly????? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
You funny......HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
Bloody grumpy old Hungarian/ Australian.

APS350???

Haven't seen or heard of it. Mind you, I have a huge amount of AP50, AP70, AP100 and even 15kg of the old AP90. So will not need to buy powder for awhile.

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=Ausglock;4578394]Joe????? Kind????? Friendly????? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
You funny......HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
Bloody grumpy old Hungarian/ Australian.

I haven't told you until now, the Kryptonite green is no longer available ....lol...lol...lol

[marky123]

Joe????? Kind????? Friendly????? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
You funny......HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
Bloody grumpy old Hungarian/ Australian.

APS350???

Haven't seen or heard of it. Mind you, I have a huge amount of AP50, AP70, AP100 and even 15kg of the old AP90. So will not need to buy powder for awhile.

Its the replacement for as30 and ap/as50.

[Stephen Cohen]

The APS350 is a single base replacement for AS and AP 30 which are double base, as fare as I am aware the loading data for APS350 is the same as AS and AP30 powder. I believe there is a new APS450 which is the replacement for AS and AP50. I should point out that H Clays is AP and AS30 powder. Regards Stephen

[Avenger442]

Anybody got a chart to show the relationship between the Aussie designations for powder and the U.S. designations? What are they talking about? Sounds like metric to me:D

[Petander]

Joe????? Kind????? Friendly????? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
You funny......HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
Bloody grumpy old Hungarian/ Australian.

APS350???

Haven't seen or heard of it. Mind you, I have a huge amount of AP50, AP70, AP100 and even 15kg of the old AP90. So will not need to buy powder for awhile.

Holy molly.

Here in Finland 2 kg of gunpowder is the max allowed to be stored at home. It can get very complicated.

[OldBearHair]

Follow directions / get good results.... Oh yeah Tazza, Talking about arrows being deadly, I once shot a pretty big spike elk the arrow entering just in front of the back leg and passed through the animal coming out through the front shoulder, then stuck in the ground fifteen yards beyond. The spike lurched forward twenty yards, stopped, wavered right, then left, and back to the right falling to the ground. Another time, I found myself very close to a cow elk in thick oak brush in New Mexico. At the shot the arrow struck the last two ribs on the right side , through the heart and stuck in the left leg. The cow jumped off the edge of the cliff and hit below about fifteen feet with the legs dragging already. How we knew this my buddy was sitting down there waiting for a shot at another animal and saw the cow sliding toward him and said that she was dead already. Sorry about off subject.

[Gremlin460]

Holy molly.

Here in Finland 2 kg of gunpowder is the max allowed to be stored at home. It can get very complicated.

Actually we have a limit on bulk powder as well, however, we have no limit on loaded rounds, so I have 4kg loose AP50 and thousands of loaded rounds. The powder in the rounds dont count towards the total powder allowed on you land.

[Stephen Cohen]

I had one well known Brisbane gun shop question my need for more powder as I had purchased a Kilo two months before. I don't deal with them any longer. Regards Stephen

[Petander]

Actually we have a limit on bulk powder as well, however, we have no limit on loaded rounds, so I have 4kg loose AP50 and thousands of loaded rounds. The powder in the rounds dont count towards the total powder allowed on you land.

We can have ten thousand loaded rounds in addition to that two kilos of powder. That includes 22 LR as well. I need to try another powder right now (full house slug loads) so I'm loading something else to empty a can.

This is another gray area because it's not about owning powder,it's about storing. Can I store another 2 kg in my cellar,outside,under ground? The answer depends on who you ask.

[Avenger442]

Our restrictions here in the US for personal use I believe is 20 pounds stored outside an approved wooden locker with a 50 pound max stored. Or 20 pounds outside the locker and 30 pounds in the locker max. That's Federal law.

However there are some states that limit an insurance company's liability and impose other laws if you have more than one pound stored. I believe Maryland is one. So if your house burns down in Maryland and they find you had two pounds of powder stored the insurance company does not have to pay. You have to know your state's law, too. Just like Australia we have some liberal run states. They are fewer almost every election.

I don't know of a limit on loaded rounds. But there probably is one. At least in some states.

[Tazza]

[QUOTE=Ausglock;4578394]Joe????? Kind????? Friendly????? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
You funny......HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
Bloody grumpy old Hungarian/ Australian.

I haven't told you until now, the Kryptonite green is no longer available ....lol...lol...lol

hehe, you need a remote button to make all his KG evaporate when he gives you lip :)

Seriously? a shop up here questioning buying more powder? 1kg doesn't go very far if you are loading big cartridges. I recently got 2 x 2kg bottles of ap70 from shooters delight, they had no issues. Recorded my license number in their book, and i walked away, no questions asked.

[slide]

Jumping off subject here. Joe, this one is for you. For the last several years I have used MEK instead of acetone. Works better for me. Opened a new can this morning to get ready to coat. Everything was ok for about five minutes. Then I noticed the hi-tek powder has turned into something that looked like playdo and was setting at the bottom of the bottle. Just happened to look at the MEK can and it said MEK subsitute. Never noticed it when I bought it, was too busy flirting with the young ladys that work in the store. Any ideas?

[Petander]

I had a hard time finding MEK but I found something that said "MEK substitute".

They told me in the shop that it was the same as basic laquer thinner. So I passed.

[Tazza]

I just use acetone, it has a far less potent smell than MEK does and is easier to find over here, our local hardware store (bunnings) have it in stock all the time. I had a coating that specified MEK for the reducer, boy does that stuff stink....

MEK took quite a bit of work to find, and it's more expensive than acetone.

[Stephen Cohen]

Jumping off subject here. Joe, this one is for you. For the last several years I have used MEK instead of acetone. Works better for me. Opened a new can this morning to get ready to coat. Everything was ok for about five minutes. Then I noticed the hi-tek powder has turned into something that looked like playdo and was setting at the bottom of the bottle. Just happened to look at the MEK can and it said MEK subsitute. Never noticed it when I bought it, was too busy flirting with the young ladys that work in the store. Any ideas?

I believe this was covered some years ago when some were having problems using MEK and Joe found they were using the product you were using which as you found was not the same. Regards Stephen

[Tazza]

That is a good point, there was something in the solvent that was causing all sorts of issues, i remember those posts.

[wlkjr]

Sadly over here, both are not allowed to be shot in the back yard. They have even made crossbows licensed as far as i was aware.

If it's fun, the government wants to take it away from us....
God bless America, Land that I love

[Ausglock]

I use MEK for testing the coatings and Acetone for production coating.
No issues with any of them.
I find the paint places have the cheapest Acetone UN1090. 20 litre drum for $110 AUD

[Conditor22]

Sadly over here, both are not allowed to be shot in the back yard. They have even made crossbows licensed as far as i was aware.

If it's fun, the government wants to take it away from us....


OK blow gun, poison, traps?

[Tazza]

OK blow gun, poison, traps?

No doubt they would be even more illegal :)

Thanks for the lead on acetone Trevor, i got my last 20l drum from AIM chemicals, not sure on the price but it was close to that.

[HI-TEK]

Jumping off subject here. Joe, this one is for you. For the last several years I have used MEK instead of acetone. Works better for me. Opened a new can this morning to get ready to coat. Everything was ok for about five minutes. Then I noticed the hi-tek powder has turned into something that looked like playdo and was setting at the bottom of the bottle. Just happened to look at the MEK can and it said MEK subsitute. Never noticed it when I bought it, was too busy flirting with the young ladys that work in the store. Any ideas?

Hi Slide,
Apology for slow response. I am not surprised at the results you obtained with the substitute.
I have said previously that MEK and Acetone both work equally. MEK stinks more and not so good to people, less available and much more expensive.
I am aware, that MEK and Acetone are sometimes wrongly labelled by people who re-pack.
I came across a serious problem here, where a local commercial caster had to recall some 6 tons of coated packed product.
I was accused of all sorts of stuff, they badmouthed me to any one that would listen that my product was no good etc etc.
Investigations, eventually revealed, that without them being aware, they purchased a solvent labelled Acetone with correct UN number, but underneath Acetone, in smaller writing was the word Reducer.
It turned out that this mix had 60% Acetone (correct with UN number) and balance of 40% was all sorts of other materials designed to be used with two pack Automotive paints to retard setting and drying.
This solvent totally stopped correct cure and adhesion of the Hi-Tek coatings.

Funny thing is, that for some 6 years they had no problems at all. This happened some months ago, and, to date I have had no apology for how they badmouthed me and my products. During a pro-long period of abuse I copped, I did not find out what really happened, until I asked for picture of label on the solvent drum they purchased. As soon as I read label, all became clear.
As soon as they used Pure Acetone, all problems disappeared.

I am aware of various substitutes being available for various solvents. As most don't detail composition it is a gamble to buy and use them without extensive testing being done first. Generally these substitutes are also more costly.

To Ausglock,
buying Acetone in 20 Litre drums at about $5.00/litre is very expensive.
44 gallon drums are about AUSD$2.00 per litre. Simply buy a 200 litre,(44 Gallons) and decant your own and save a bundle.
A 44 gallon drum will save about AUSD$600.00. That is not petty cash when considering volumes used.

[HI-TEK]

No doubt they would be even more illegal :)

Thanks for the lead on acetone Trevor, i got my last 20l drum from AIM chemicals, not sure on the price but it was close to that.



Tazza, try a company called REDOX Chemicals, their Acetone is in 44's but is much cheaper. It is worth the investment.