simple Hi-Tek coating

[robertbank]

Humbo I figure if I got 10 years left of shooting and still knowing I am shooting then I got enough alloy in my garage to get me there at the present rate of consumption + weekly augmentation from Canadian Tire. Here in Canada the tree huggers figured steel WW's that fly off and puncture tires on highways is way better than flipping recyclable lead alloy WW's. Makes you wonder where our priorities lie.

Take Care

Bob

[popper]

Bob - as I stated earlier, add a bit of zinc to your alloy to harden it, ~1% by wt. You can get it from pennies.

[robertbank]

Popper I cannot get it through my thick skull as to how to melt copper into my alloy. I know you sent me a link but I was no wiser after reading it than I was before. If you could would you mind setting out the method in the simplest terms. If you get technical you will lose me. My chemistry and physic classes were 55 years ago. Most of both were displaced with banking knowledge years ago.

Take Care

Bob

[Gremlin460]

Actually there are some hardness requirements for wheel weights, if not I doubt they would bother putting any arsenic, tin and antimony in the mix at all. If too soft, the lead simply would not withstand the rotational forces and stay on the clip, especially with the higher weights.

If you don't have any equipment to measure hardness yourself, then I agree it's better to sweeten the pot with alloy of certified hardness.

If I can get stuff to work with WW's, maybe with only a little tin added, then I can take comfort in the fact that I wouldn't run out of alloy for a good while.

Three points we are perfectly aligned with.
And the last point is what started my comment on WW improvement. I will add SB for hardness and SN for better mold fillout.
I am not specifically aiming for Hardball, just a point inbetween that works for me and my guns.

[HI-TEK]

Popper I cannot get it through my thick skull as to how to melt copper into my alloy. I know you sent me a link but I was no wiser after reading it than I was before. If you could would you mind setting out the method in the simplest terms. If you get technical you will lose me. My chemistry and physic classes were 55 years ago. Most of both were displaced with banking knowledge years ago.

Take Care

Bob

Bob,
One easy way to get Copper into the alloy is with fluxing/stirring in well, with Copper Sulphate.
Any "active" metals will replace the Copper from its salt, and form a residue on top of your melted alloy.
This should introduce the Copper as a very finely suspended, and may be dissolved in mix.
I dont have any details of how much Copper Sulphate to use, (sold as Rootex and also as Bluestone) but trialing by adding a known quantity to a know weight of alloy, and measuring hardness difference after treatment, should provide some answers.

[Avenger442]

I have been shooting 308 with clip on wheel weight, two percent tin and a gas check three coats of the liquid Gold 1035 Hi-Tek water dropped at around 2600 fps one half grain short of max load of H4895 with no leading. Not my most accurate load with that bullet.

I reached my original goal of matching the performance of the 308 store bought I was using for hunting last January with 1 1/2 " groups. Next goal is to match performance of Federal Gold Match with the Hi-Tek. Those groups are under an inch in the 223. I'm close with the 223 HiTek but using 22 BHN bullets. Because of the cost in 308 of the Gold Match I've been waiting on the 308. About to start it. Hunting season about to start here.

It seems that as usual I have too many irons in the fire. I also have the dies set up to load 44 mag for the pistol. Not sure when I'm going to make it to the range again. More important things keep getting in the way.

[robertbank]

Bob,
One easy way to get Copper into the alloy is with fluxing/stirring in well, with Copper Sulphate.
Any "active" metals will replace the Copper from its salt, and form a residue on top of your melted alloy.
This should introduce the Copper as a very finely suspended, and may be dissolved in mix.
I dont have any details of how much Copper Sulphate to use, (sold as Rootex and also as Bluestone) but trialing by adding a known quantity to a know weight of alloy, and measuring hardness difference after treatment, should provide some answers.

Hey thanks Joe...that I understand and will try. Might be awhile though unless I get lucky locally finding Bluestone or Rootex. Phoned Dillon and they have mailed me a new sizing die. Apparently they are experiencing problems with their tungsten collars. Only the 2nd one in 25 odd years that has come out of the die so I can't complain.

Take Care

Bob

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=robertbank;3372398]Hey thanks Joe...that I understand and will try. Might be awhile though unless I get lucky locally finding Bluestone or Rootex.

You can buy Copper Sulphate, in nursery supplies, and most hardware stores, as it is also used as fungicide sprays on various plants. Agricultural/farming supplies should also have the product.
I suppose, it is simply a few phone calls to your nearest such retailers and asking if they stock it.

[robertbank]

Perfect I should get to it on Monday. Annual Club Championship this week-end.

Bob

[HI-TEK]

Attached is range report as posted on Smith &Wesson forum.
Interesting results148741

[robertbank]

Mirrors my experience with 38spl loads. Accurate and less smoke.

Take Care

Bob

[Shotgundrums]

I'm gonna see if a friend of mine will let be borrow his older gen 686. I wanna clean it up, new, and latter Hitek loads through it. Mine hates lead unless they're 38 spl type loads. Magnum... forget it.

[Ausglock]

My 686-3 6" runs Lee 156RNFP with 2 coats. Sized .358.
load is 9.0gn Blue Dot in Federal Magnum brass. Heavy crimp.

After 200 rounds, barrel is shiny clean.

[Shotgundrums]

Mine is a 686-6Plus. After 14 rnds of hardball 158gr, .358, over 14.6gr of 2400 or 15gr h110, barrel is grayer than an elephant's ****. Copper mesh, stat

[Ausglock]

I have never tried 2400. hard to get here.

[Shotgundrums]

Yeah wish the HiTek did work for my Smiths... I do the Epoxy thing for them. All others get HiTek pills. Hell, even my SASS Ruger vaqueros like HItek pills.

[Gremlin460]

Nice looking isn't it?
148887

Hey?.. whats going on??
148888

Noo!!! Don't do it!!
148889

Why!!, easy, BHN on these 3500+ Double coated sized casts was 8 or less. This is the price you pay for not paying attention to your Alloy Mix.
I added 50% pure to the mix of COWW for the last pot full. It proved to be my undoing.
Thers is 40# of casts here if not more, I stuffed up the last of 2-3 pot loads, some of these are fine, but I am not going to sit down and test each and every one.

Just sharing as a reminder, leading isn't always the fault of the coating.
I learnt 41 new swear words during this process.
Mike.

[Shotgundrums]

Unless already sized down, they'd a probably works great for 38 plinkers

[Ausglock]

Grem... Sux to be you...lol

[Gremlin460]

Grem... Sux to be you...lol

Yup Shame on me, bet I wont make that mistake again.

Had me confused for awhile as 2-3 mags would leave a clean barrel and the next leaded badly.
That turned out to be caused by only 1/3rd of the casts being 50/50 but mixed in with the whole lot when coated.

My new batch is 1.9/4.5/93.6 mix and this time I have only cast 300 to test. I hate casting small batches, waste of heating the pot, setting it all out, just for half an hour of casting.
We shall see how these size and shoot.
There was a VAST difference in mold fillout and also a much more positive action when cutting the sprue.

[Michael J. Spangler]

Nice looking isn't it?
148887

Hey?.. whats going on??
148888

Noo!!! Don't do it!!
148889

Why!!, easy, BHN on these 3500+ Double coated sized casts was 8 or less. This is the price you pay for not paying attention to your Alloy Mix.
I added 50% pure to the mix of COWW for the last pot full. It proved to be my undoing.
Thers is 40# of casts here if not more, I stuffed up the last of 2-3 pot loads, some of these are fine, but I am not going to sit down and test each and every one.

Just sharing as a reminder, leading isn't always the fault of the coating.
I learnt 41 new swear words during this process.
Mike.
I
Would have tried to heat them back up to 400 and water drop.
I found with my 50/50 mix It really helped when water dropping. Non water dropped 9MM 124TL from lee would get squeezed down a thousand in size by the neck tension of a sized 9mm case.
Once water dropped they hardened up enough to get rid of that problem and stop the tumbling. I would think you would be able to squeeze out enough hardness to help you out

[robertbank]

I tried re-heating as described above with no improvement, still leaded barrel badly in 9MM. A more obvious cure will work and that is to just run the bullets through a lubricator and shoot them as lubed bullets. That I have done in 9MM and had no leading. I have about 3K 9MM bullets waiting for this treatment over the winter.

I am surprised your 38spl leaded up at 8BRN. How fast are you driving them?

Take Care

Bob

[Avenger442]

Nice looking isn't it?
148887

Hey?.. whats going on??
148888

Noo!!! Don't do it!!
148889

Why!!, easy, BHN on these 3500+ Double coated sized casts was 8 or less. This is the price you pay for not paying attention to your Alloy Mix.
I added 50% pure to the mix of COWW for the last pot full. It proved to be my undoing.
Thers is 40# of casts here if not more, I stuffed up the last of 2-3 pot loads, some of these are fine, but I am not going to sit down and test each and every one.

Just sharing as a reminder, leading isn't always the fault of the coating.
I learnt 41 new swear words during this process.
Mike.

I did this in a different way. Did two batches of 200 45s each. Tossed them all into a big plastic container. Didn't do smash test on last batch. Must have not let that one dry enough. Coating started coming off of some when I sized them. Since they were all together could not tell good from bad so ended up melting down 400 45s. Feel your pain man.

[Shotgundrums]

I bought another Jarvis barrel back in April. These barrels are button rifled. Bore looks beautiful and everything about it is exacting. However, it leads terribly with everything I put through it, Hitek or otherwise. Mr Jarvis said, although rare, it's quite possible this barrel was rifled, and then oriented backwards. In essence, the flow of the barrels metal is tearing at the bullet. I am to send it back, and he may lap it or replace it.

[Ausglock]

A local IPSC shooter tested my bullets in a S&W M&P Pro.
135RN sized .356 leaded slightly.
Same bullet sized .3575 no leading.
2.6.92 alloy.
Bullet fit is still king.

[Shotgundrums]

Oh, they fit alright. Barrel is .3551 exact. Bullets are .3562 and .3572. Leading is a gradual "graying" if you will. Hitek bullets lead less, but aren't far behind next to traditionally lubed bullets. All preferred lead removal methods were a job to get it clean. Barrel sent. I threw the factory bbl back in. Shoots Hitek pills great. .356

[Gremlin460]

New batch of 300 out of the oven and WD.
Using the Excel Alloy calculator on this forums site, I fooled around until I got a mix of 2/4.5/93.5 I figure that's close enough.
Just for a giggle I ran the numbers of 50/50 COWW and pure, then new stuff I mixed has a projected bhn of 13.2 the old stuff I had used had a projected bhn of 8.1

The 13.2 is without the WD at the end. so even if it only gave me 0.8bhn increase I should be working around the 14 mark. Definitely an improvement over the 8.1!





edited for schpellink missteaks.

[HI-TEK]

Robert, and all others that are interested,
Another World record with Hi-Tek coating
I am please to announce, that in a 9mm shoot, in Western Australia in August 2015, a world record was achieved.
World record was achieved by Linda Jekel, who scored 1483 out of 1500 WIPC, held in WA 1500 best ladies pistol score recorded at Whiteman Park International Pistol club Perth.
Linda used 115 grain projectiles, semi wad-cutters,
using STI Targetmaster, 9mm category.
The Hard cast projectiles were all coated with two coats of Green Hi-Tek coating, which were supplied by local commercial manufacturer.
Loads were with N310 powder, and used 2.4 grains.
Congratulations Linda.
Talking to Linda today, apparently, she is determined, to beat her own score, as it should have been higher, as she had a little difficulty with a magazine which lost her a little time.
Results were apparently published on 1500 website, and I hope I quoted details accurately.
What a great result.

[zomby woof]

Hi-tek, is three year old dark green liquid still good? It's been stored in a cool basement. I've had so much fun with the dry formula, I just noticed I have a large quantity of liquid.
Congrats on the new record. It doesn't surprise me.

[HI-TEK]

Hi-tek, is three year old dark green liquid still good? It's been stored in a cool basement. I've had so much fun with the dry formula, I just noticed I have a large quantity of liquid.
Congrats on the new record. It doesn't surprise me.

Thanks for your compliment.
It is very pleasing to get such great news.

If the old coating has been out of sunlight, in reasonably well sealed container, non catalysed, it may work OK, but colour may be darker, and mix would be more viscous.
Simply try it on a few and see how it goes.
I had a retention sample here, for about 8 years, sitting on a shelf, and it worked OK, but colour was significantly darker, and brew seemed more viscous, and I put it down to solvent loss through plastic bottle..
Many people seem to like playing with the coatings, and just cast so they can coat.
It can be very addictive hobby, that makes you a slave for casting to satisfy demands of the coating.

[robertbank]

Good news no doubt. Joe it would, on the surface appear the coating works well at a certain level of hardness of alloy when used in high pressure rounds or it is dependent on the method of application. You might want to do some experimentation to determine if it indeed alloy dependent. I would not rely on hobby types as their testing equipment would not be commercial quality.

I shot 100 rounds through a 3.9" barreled CZ yesterday and experienced no leading using bullets that leaded the 4.7" version and 5" M&P PRO badly (Same batch - same alloy). With the worst of the leading on the longer barreled guns at the very end of the barrel and gradually less towards the chamber it would appear the coating is failing at around the 5" mark of the barrel and then slowly migrating backwards as each successive bullet passes over the initial leaded area. Thoughts?

Good on the lady shooter. What discipline or type of shooting is involved? I assume bullseye.

Take Care

Bob

[Michael J. Spangler]

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll105/MJSpangler/Casting/159061DC-CC23-4733-A1A5-DB310FA0BD62_zpsyyfspqc0.jpg (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/MJSpangler/media/Casting/159061DC-CC23-4733-A1A5-DB310FA0BD62_zpsyyfspqc0.jpg.html)


This was a 6.5" barrel S&W 629-4
Alloy used was 50/50 COWW and Pure (my COWW alloy is actually a mock alloy I make up to meet COWW plus some tin. Basically 2/3/95 with some trace arsenic in there)
These bullets were coated with liquid gold 3 times.
Sized in a lee push through to .430"
Sparked with a CCI large pistol primer and 20 grains of Alliant 2400.

Should be around 1300 fps.
It's hard to photograph but there were 2 or 3 granules of unburnt powder and the fouling you see is only in the last 1" or so of the bore.

This was 94 rounds of the above ammo and about 12 more of some left over reloads with the same bullets and some powder combination I can't remember.

This is awesome. Full power loads in a 44 magnum with no leading to speak of.
Very accurate too.

My accuracy test consist of hunting rocks on the 30 yard berm. I don't shoot paper much.

Thumbs up to Hi Tek Joe. They pass the 44 mag test with flying colors.
Also the bullets dug from the berm are still full coated on the base and sides. The only spots that were bare was where the bullets impacted and sheared off lead.

[HI-TEK]

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll105/MJSpangler/Casting/159061DC-CC23-4733-A1A5-DB310FA0BD62_zpsyyfspqc0.jpg (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/MJSpangler/media/Casting/159061DC-CC23-4733-A1A5-DB310FA0BD62_zpsyyfspqc0.jpg.html)


This was a 6.5" barrel S&W 629-4
Alloy used was 50/50 COWW and Pure (my COWW alloy is actually a mock alloy I make up to meet COWW plus some tin. Basically 2/3/95 with some trace arsenic in there)
These bullets were coated with liquid gold 3 times.
Sized in a lee push through to .430"
Sparked with a CCI large pistol primer and 20 grains of Alliant 2400.

Should be around 1300 fps.
It's hard to photograph but there were 2 or 3 granules of unburnt powder and the fouling you see is only in the last 1" or so of the bore.

This was 94 rounds of the above ammo and about 12 more of some left over reloads with the same bullets and some powder combination I can't remember.

This is awesome. Full power loads in a 44 magnum with no leading to speak of.
Very accurate too.

My accuracy test consist of hunting rocks on the 30 yard berm. I don't shoot paper much.

Thumbs up to Hi Tek Joe. They pass the 44 mag test with flying colors.
Also the bullets dug from the berm are still full coated on the base and sides. The only spots that were bare was where the bullets impacted and sheared off lead.

Thanks much for your above post. Your comments and report is much appreciated.
You have confirmed, what many other users have found, that the stuff simply works, if used correctly with appropriate/applicable materials.
Many have dug out Berms, to examine shot coated projectiles, and all had found similar results as you did, with coating still bonded well even with the extreme impacts of hitting dirt, sand etc etc.
You cant stop fragmentation of alloy with hard impact with stones rocks etc etc and that is not the aim or purpose of the coating.
I believe, that Gateway Bullets had posted another U-Tube video, showing the heat reflecting ability of the coating, side by side with another non-coated alloy.
I am hoping to get a copy/link to that video which then I can post with Gateways permission.
Again, thanks for your posting.
I am really glad, that so many have put the products under a very high scrutiny and had found success.

[Michael J. Spangler]

Thanks much for your above post. Your comments and report is much appreciated.
You have confirmed, what many other users have found, that the stuff simply works, if used correctly with appropriate/applicable materials.
Many have dug out Berms, to examine shot coated projectiles, and all had found similar results as you did, with coating still bonded well even with the extreme impacts of hitting dirt, sand etc etc.
You cant stop fragmentation of alloy with hard impact with stones rocks etc etc and that is not the aim or purpose of the coating.
I believe, that Gateway Bullets had posted another U-Tube video, showing the heat reflecting ability of the coating, side by side with another non-coated alloy.
I am hoping to get a copy/link to that video which then I can post with Gateways permission.
Again, thanks for your posting.
I am really glad, that so many have put the products under a very high scrutiny and had found success.

Anytime! Yeah it's amazing how well it holds up and even after being caked with dirt, I can scrub the dirt off with my shirt and it's still coated! this stuff is amazing!
TAHNK YOU JOE!

[Shotgundrums]

It is amazing stuff. I love it! But, Joe. You and the rest of the mad scientists gotta figure out the next evolutionary step in this stuff. Perhaps it's in the works :D I know blue color has been mentioned. And I'm sure some of the current marketed colors are resultant of "blue's" attempted unveiling:) hitek has evolved into awesome stuff in recent years...let's keep it going! I know we can say, "but thousands of users have had success with it." True. I'm one of them. However, some would say minor to intermediate barrel leading after 200 rounds could be counted as successful. Some shooters don't give two hoots as long as a bullet comes out the business end, straight or keyholed...seriously...
But just imagine a HiTek product that wasn't as sensitive to alloy hardness or dimensional imperfections, along with the mass quantity of coating of bullets. You can't deny, this would be jaw dropping.

[Michael J. Spangler]

It is amazing stuff. I love it! But, Joe. You and the rest of the mad scientists gotta figure out the next evolutionary step in this stuff. Perhaps it's in the works :D I know blue color has been mentioned. And I'm sure some of the current marketed colors are resultant of "blue's" attempted unveiling:) hitek has evolved into awesome stuff in recent years...let's keep it going! I know we can say, "but thousands of users have had success with it." True. I'm one of them. However, some would say minor to intermediate barrel leading after 200 rounds could be counted as successful. Some shooters don't give two hoots as long as a bullet comes out the business end, straight or keyholed...seriously...
But just imagine a HiTek product that wasn't as sensitive to alloy hardness or dimensional imperfections, along with the mass quantity of coating of bullets. You can't deny, this would be jaw dropping.



I think I might have proven that it already does that.
My bullets are far from perfect and they're pretty soft alloy compared to what lots of people are using.
They were just shy of flawless through the 44 mag last night. I don't think I had cleaned my 44 after the last shooting session either which did contain some bullets only coated twice.
I'll do some more testing. I've found it to be very insensitive to the alloy in my applications.

[Shotgundrums]

I've got two S&W revolvers. Both are later models. 44mag & 357mag. 38 spl or 44 spl type loads work ok. Mag loads, forget it. Lots of guns have leading issues because of perverse dimensions. Any high pressure/velocity gas cutting will tear away the coating...leading. Your gun seems sound. I tried my loads in a friends old 586 S&W and rounds worked perfect. Unless your barrel is scored by tooling or something nuts like that, imagine leading being a nonissue all together. We shouldn't dismiss this.

[Michael J. Spangler]

Good point.
I forgot that the newer S&W guns have EDM cut rifling and some guns have MIM barrel etc.
I guess it does really vary on rifling too.
I'm lucky to only have old revolvers.
They're so nice!

[HI-TEK]

As per my previous blog, Gateway, has made a video, showing a Red Copper coated 9mm and a 44 non coated, and demonstrated the heat reflective property of the coating.
At full alloy melt temperature, the coated 9mm did not melt as the 44 did right alongside.
The coating prevented the heat penetrating and melting the alloy.
An interesting and practical demonstration. Video below.....
https://youtu.be/9ru_NYp7Y6c

[Avenger442]

Just to back up Spanglers 44 my test this week with my 44 magnum Redhawk 5 1/2" barrel. Lee TL 430-240 SWC cast with 98% clip on wheel weight and 2% tin 237 grain bullet. Load was 12 and 13 grains H 800X, CCI 300 primer in a RP case. Groups were not as good as I had hoped. I'm not much of a pistol shooter and these were shot standing with no rest. All were on 12" target at 15 yards.

No leading. Coating was powder formula Gunmetal three coats. BHN was tested with a Lee tester to be 11 BHN.

I have started doing bore cam videos of the barrel before and after but no way to post them (no URL).

149199Will someone tell me why I can't load these photos straight up. Tried to rotate on the computer but still loads the same. Is it because of the file size? Going to start taking them laying on my side lol.

Almost forgot, also shot the 308 with Hi-Tek 3 coats of the Gunmetal. These were Lee CTL 312-160-2R 170 grain bullet sized to 309 these were water dropped 91% COWW 2% tin with 7% mag shot added to see how it would impact the hardness. BHN was tested at 14 days 17 BHN. Probably on the verge of being too hard to hunt with. Didn't expect these to lead since I have shot softer bullets in this gun with similar loads. They didn't. Load was 41, 42, and 43 grains of H 4895 CCI 200 primer in RP cases. Can't say the groups were good. Best was about 2 1/2" at 100 yards.

This was a revisit of a load I tested earlier when my scope loosened up during the test. It did it again at about half way through the testing. Weaver mounts on the rifle loosened up. Last time it was the screws on the scope so I put thread lock on them. Relatively new rifle and scope. Got to work out the bugs.

[Avenger442]

Joe or anyone else that might have the answer: Has anyone used the Hi-Tek coating in black powder guns? Another market? I can see where it might be used in the black powder cartridge guns and maybe in the muzzle loader.

[HI-TEK]

Joe or anyone else that might have the answer: Has anyone used the Hi-Tek coating in black powder guns? Another market? I can see where it might be used in the black powder cartridge guns and maybe in the muzzle loader.

I have spoken to a guy here that is into Black Powder shooting.
I dont know if this discipline is same in every country.
I was advised, that with Black powder here, users apply heavy loads of wax type lubes into very large lube grooves on the projectiles, to help with lubrication and to help wipe out the barrel from powder residues and also create smoke.
Apparently, as each projectiles is shot, the lube is squeezed out from the lube grooves to leave a heavy greasy deposit layer behind, which then "captures" the mess from the black powder burn, and, in theory, assists with lubrication of next projectile, and with removal of mess that is captured from previous shot.
It was also advised, that in that discipline, majority only use soft Lead and or soft alloys at fairly low velocity.
My input would be, that coating such projectiles, should assist with metal to metal separation, and may assist with lubrication between alloy and barrel surfaces, and may assist further with some reduction of atomised lead in the smoky emissions.
The coated alloy/Lead, will also help with reduction of direct contact with Lead by users who load such ammo.
I hope that this little input assists.

[Gremlin460]

Range report from today:-

348 128gn 2/4.5/93.5 alloy, 3.4 AP50N ADI powder.
Zero ,nil, nothing as far as leading goes. 2 passes with a cloth wipe and the barrel looked unfired.

Therefore, attending to my alloy composition has cured the issues that I had initially attributed to my coating.

One happy chappy...

[HI-TEK]

Range report from today:-

348 128gn 2/4.5/93.5 alloy, 3.4 AP50N ADI powder.
Zero ,nil, nothing as far as leading goes. 2 passes with a cloth wipe and the barrel looked unfired.

Therefore, attending to my alloy composition has cured the issues that I had initially attributed to my coating.

One happy chappy...

Great news Grem...Thanks for posting your results..

[PAT303]

I put 226 rounds through two Lee Enfields,23grns of 2207,30grns of 2219 and 42grns of 2213 under various 200-220grn boolits and neither had any leading of any type,the last two loads are over 2000fps. Pat

[HI-TEK]

I put 226 rounds through two Lee Enfields,23grns of 2207,30grns of 2219 and 42grns of 2213 under various 200-220grn boolits and neither had any leading of any type,the last two loads are over 2000fps. Pat

Thanks for your blog Pat 303., much appreciated.
How does these results compare with previously used materials?
How did you find the accuracy?

[PAT303]

Accuracy is 2'' at 100,about as good as I can shoot a standard military rifle with standard sights,one thing I've found is the coating makes the boolits more durable,when mag loading the boolits aren't damaged when the round on top is chambered,previously the rim of the top round shaves the one underneath as it slides over it,the lack of smoke is quite noticeable. Pat

[Gremlin460]

To avoid further problems with my alloy, I made this BHN tester based on the Cabin Tree Tester that they no longer produce.
The difference with my design is that it uses a cam to squeeze the lead being sampled, rather than a turn or spinning motion that, in my opinion would "drill" into the lead rather than do a compression sample.

149472

AS you can see in the picture there is a lot of adjustment under the pedestal to allow for testing of ingots as well as casts. I need to fit a knob on the lever to finish the project off.
The digital Gauge make it easier to read resulting measurements.

[Avenger442]

To avoid further problems with my alloy, I made this BHN tester based on the Cabin Tree Tester that they no longer produce.
The difference with my design is that it uses a cam to squeeze the lead being sampled, rather than a turn or spinning motion that, in my opinion would "drill" into the lead rather than do a compression sample.

149472

AS you can see in the picture there is a lot of adjustment under the pedestal to allow for testing of ingots as well as casts. I need to fit a knob on the lever to finish the project off.
The digital Gauge make it easier to read resulting measurements.

Looks cool. I'm sure Joe would say it has very scientific look. Does the gauge convert measurement directly to a BHN number? How do you calibrate it?

[Gremlin460]

No the Gauge can be read in MM or thou. I have to build my own chart by testing samples of material. For example:-

097" Steel slug eg. full travel no penetration.
067-070" Assorted old COWW tested
054-057" 50/50 muffin ingots of COWW and Pure (these are the 3500 that I had to remelt due to leading).
038-040" Pure tin pellets
061-063" Batch of old (years old) 38cal Casts I was given coated in alox.
000-000" Marshmallows
067-072" casts I made 8 days ago that did not lead, cast from 2/4.5/93.5 mix
074-076" 20% SB mini ingots I poured a week ago.
097-097" cookies my wife made.
043-048" Stick on WW (average of 15 tested)

That's as far as my test list goes at the moment.
Mike.

[Avenger442]

000-000" Marshmallows

Was that roasted or fresh?:bigsmyl2:

Might like to try to make one of these, too. Looks like another project on the horizon.

[RP]

Gremlin I read testing ingots will not give you a correct reading since the cooling of the ingot is a lot different then a bullet. So if I read it right you can test a ingot melt ingot down and cast some bullets and the reading will not be the same. Yes that is taking in account you need to let the bullet air cool and age to let it get to its natural hardness which I am sure you know what I am speaking of. Added that bit of info for those reading this that may not know what I am speaking of on lead hardness.

[Gremlin460]

Gremlin I read testing ingots will not give you a correct reading since the cooling of the ingot is a lot different then a bullet. So if I read it right you can test a ingot melt ingot down and cast some bullets and the reading will not be the same. Yes that is taking in account you need to let the bullet air cool and age to let it get to its natural hardness which I am sure you know what I am speaking of. Added that bit of info for those reading this that may not know what I am speaking of on lead hardness.


Hoping not to prolong the discussion of lead in the coating thread too much..
I agree with you 100%, what the ingot tests as is not what your cast will be, especially as I WD after casting and once again after my last bake.
However, I am hoping that I can eventually work out if casts from (example figure) 12BHN ingot will finnish up harder or softer. There must be some kind of correlation between the two.
That said, if you procure lead in any form, ingot, muffin, or stick. Its handy to know roughly what your playing with to start with.
RP if people are interested to follow on with discussing lead for coating, maybe wise to move selected posts to the correct area.

[Dystaxia]

097-097" cookies my wife made.


Rock hard cookies. :)

[popper]

Giving up on the 1035 gold for rifle, back to ESPC. This is NOT, repeat NOT saying HiTek is NOT good! Problem is getting the stuff to stick reliably. My attempts to push (144 PB 300BO & 170 GC 308W) fast just isn't working. Yes, it works with ESPC, same alloy. Out of 5 different coating batches, some smash OK, some don't. I keep each batch in a different jug, random smashing gives good and bad results, from each jug. ESPC I only coat once and know if it is good or bad by looking. Reliability just isn't there FOR ME, & I get tired of recasting batches of 4-500. Yes, I measure carefully, oven is PID controlled and drying is proper. Tired of unleading the barrel too. Got great group last time @ 25 yds with the 40SW HiTek, even though glasses won't correct my astigmatism AND the barrel had minor leading.
Edit: evidence, several like this @100, 300BO - tight group is PC others are HiTek. Fps ~1800.
149669

[Shotgundrums]

I keep hinting to Joe to consider development of a much more forgiving coating. :-P.

[popper]

My problem, not Joe's.

[Shotgundrums]

Granted

[Dusty1234]

I am sure this has been covered before but i am wondering what everyone is using to lube there sprue plates. I am casting with a master caster and accurate molds.

[Shotgundrums]

I lube all mine, iron and aluminum, with MOS2 powder (regular graphite powder works too and won't burn with this app. Others have used the HITek mold release stuff (super-fine PTFE). Place a tad under the hinge, rub a bit smooth on the surface.

[HI-TEK]

I lube all mine, iron and aluminum, with MOS2 powder (regular graphite powder works too and won't burn with this app. Others have used the HITek mold release stuff (super-fine PTFE). Place a tad under the hinge, rub a bit smooth on the surface.

The mold release stuff (Hi-Tek 500 PLUS)is not PTFE and will work great, and also stop Lead spatter from sticking to surfaces.
The sizing lube, is a water polymer dispersion (Aqualube 5000), made with a Fluoro polymer, also should work/lube well.

[Shotgundrums]

Yeah that stuff, my bad:oops::oops:

[Ausglock]

I used a tiny drop of lithium grease. Wiped across the bottom of the sprue plate with a finger.
Stops lead buildup and lasts all day on a Mark X with 4 molds running.

[Gremlin460]

I use Ceramic Synthetic High Performance Lube, usually used on Brake calipers, its good for 1650`C. just a dab on the hinge point the rest of the mold runs as is. Tube of CHPS grease last you a life time. Made by Bendix.

[Dusty1234]

Synthetic grease or lithium grease will that mess with the coating?

[Ausglock]

Not that I've found.

[popper]

Quit using the syn. 2 cycle oil, using ECO AC oil now that Gear found ( no dye - got at autozone). Smear the normal places (even the top of the blocks), heat the mould, wipe with a paper towel when up to temp. Poured about 300 145gr PB last nite, ~10 culls, my bad. I'll re-apply next session just because, no gue, no mess, just works great. Haven't even cleaned the mould in 4 sessions. The pint will last several generations of casters. These will be PCd but I've done pistol boolits with this stuff, HiTekd, no problem.

[HI-TEK]

Synthetic grease or lithium grease will that mess with the coating?

If users are careful, and not over use lubes, such as these, it should be OK.
However, if the used materials migrate onto or contaminate surface of cast alloy, then it is a problem.

As blogged by Gremlin, the Brake grease he is using, contains similar ingredients as used with HI-TEK 5000 mold release, but the HI-TEK is dry, and is not greasy.
With high temperature use areas, any grease will harden, and dry up and or Carbonise, and, the high temperature residue in that grease, is what ends up doing the work/lubrication.
The residue will also be a reasonable metal spatter release as well.

[Dusty1234]

Thanks ya'll I will give it a try this weekend!

[Shotgundrums]

Mr. Joe,
I mixed up a batch of Texas Tea powder for the first time. I couldn't get the Bullets to pass the wipe test; they would always have a very faint bit of black transfer late in the wipe test, no matter the time baked. I read somewhere back this sort of thing with a red color, I could be wrong but I wanna say you suggested adding a touch more catalyst... Anywho, I dumped the solution to start over because I found tiny patches of a white powder among the brilliant gold flecks and gray powder. With the previous reading, I'm wondering if this is catalyst maybe settled away or not mixed well into the resin?... Is that possible? Most peculiar.

[Shotgundrums]

Now I see a separated black among the gray powder. Did I miss something?

[HI-TEK]

Now I see a separated black among the gray powder. Did I miss something?

Hi Mr Shotgundrums
The Gunmetal coating, (Powdered version) does have various materials in it that simply do not dissolve in solvent mixture.
What you observed is quite normal
Before applying it to coat, if you had not mixed up diluted mixture well, , I would expect such problem.
Every component has a part to play with finished coat working as it should and should be applied to alloys during coating/tumbling process.
You should not have thrown out diluted mixture. If you kept it, and added a little liquid catalyst to it, you could have seen results. If that improved things, then it was a simple case of not pre-mixing original mixture well before coating.
Every component in the mix should set things correctly without extra catalyst.
Adding a little extra catalyst would not hurt at all, as excess simply gasses off during bake.
Please try mixture again, and let me know how you went.

[Shotgundrums]

I took some pics. I looked through my others: ZG, RC, BC, CAR... Those didn't seem to have separate(d) stuff like this. I'll stir and shake up this Texas Tea again and make a new batch. And coat Bullets and report results when time permits.
Thx, Joe
you da man:)
150114150115150116

[Ausglock]

I had a look, last night, at the 5 different test samples of Texas Tea I have in the shed. All have the white and black dots in them. The white appears to be catalyst. I mix 20gms to 100 ml MEK. shake the hell out of it. let sit for 1 hour and them shake like buggery again. you can see the difference between when it is first mixed (like grains of sand in the bottle) to when it has let react for an hour and shook (no grains of sand in the mix) it smoothes out.

[Shotgundrums]

Well alrighty. Ill give it another try. Thx man!

[dsa]

Question for you more experienced users of the Hi-TEK coating, are there any issues intermixing the powder version and the liquid version? I have some liquid I need to finish up and was wondering if I could apply a 3rd coat of liquid over 2 coats of powder? The 2 coats of the powder are passing the smash and wipe tests just fine; the color is brick red. Thanks.

[Ausglock]

Yep. no worries.
I do this all the time when testing new colours in the powder.
2 coats of the powder. Once tested and photographed, they then get 2 coats of liquid Black to cover the colour.
4 coats in total with zero smash off. pass all tests.

[HI-TEK]

Question for you more experienced users of the Hi-TEK coating, are there any issues intermixing the powder version and the liquid version? I have some liquid I need to finish up and was wondering if I could apply a 3rd coat of liquid over 2 coats of powder? The 2 coats of the powder are passing the smash and wipe tests just fine; the color is brick red. Thanks.

Good question dsa.
The liquid and powders all interchangeable, and will bond to each baked on coatings.
Some, have mixed up solvent based coatings, with catalyst and dilution solvent, and then also added powdered systems to the mix.
They are all compatible, and no problems should happen.
If you add powdered systems to diluted & catalysed liquid coatings, all that should happen is the brew will be darker with colour intensity, and may become too strong as single applied coating, and may dry much slower.
Some coat with Red Copper, liquid, then coat with Black or Bronze made from powder, and so on.
No problems at all, they should all work on top of each other.

[Leatherhead Bullets]

Question for you more experienced users of the Hi-TEK coating, are there any issues intermixing the powder version and the liquid version? I have some liquid I need to finish up and was wondering if I could apply a 3rd coat of liquid over 2 coats of powder? The 2 coats of the powder are passing the smash and wipe tests just fine; the color is brick red. Thanks.

Would the same apply with mixing two different powder versions (Say his brick red and hard bronze) etc. prior to mixing with acetone? Or after for that matter?

Thanks.

[Shotgundrums]

Would the same apply with mixing two different powder versions (Say his brick red and hard bronze) etc. prior to mixing with acetone? Or after for that matter?

Thanks.

20 grams is 20 grams. Should work just the same.
20g/100ml

[Ausglock]

Make no difference.

I often combine small amounts of different coatings. Powder and liquid after mixing with acetone, powder and powder before mixing.
To try custom colours, try 5gms of gold with 15gms of other colours. It all works.

[Gremlin460]

Make no difference.

I often combine small amounts of different coatings. Powder and liquid after mixing with acetone, powder and powder before mixing.
To try custom colours, try 5gms of gold with 15gms of other colours. It all works.


Sounds like Trev is a bit of a BC Artist Joe!!!!

[Ausglock]

Sounds like Trev is a bit of a BC Artist Joe!!!!


Is that a Typo, Grem???? Joe would say a BS artist....

[HI-TEK]

Is that a Typo, Grem???? Joe would say a BS artist....


NOOOO, I would not say that at all.....

I must concede, that with mad scientist Ausglock, his encouragement/demands, with developing new coatings, coupled with US and other places for different products, spurred me to continue to develop range.
With BS matters, may be there is an element of input there, but am happy to cop it and put up with it.

[Gremlin460]

NOOOO, I would not say that at all.....

I must concede, that with mad scientist Ausglock, his encouragement/demands, with developing new coatings, coupled with US and other places for different products, spurred me to continue to develop range.
With BS matters, may be there is an element of input there, but am happy to cop it and put up with it.

That's a YES then?

[Gremlin460]

David from CBE Cast bullet engineering here in AU has been very helpful.

I now have a new TC 358 Brass 4 cav on its way, with the Loobe groove removed and the BB removed at NO EXTRA CHARGE... something other mold makers should take note on, especially LEE who quoted ridiculous figures for the job...

[Ausglock]

Asked him to make me some machine casting molds.
He wouldn't do it.
So, He lost my business.
So much for supporting Aussie businesses...

[Shotgundrums]

Joe, Trev,
the Texas Tea 2nd round was successful. I stirred the whole container and broke up all the pockets of separated components, new Bullets are more black as well.
HiTek Bullet porn?
150361

[HI-TEK]

Joe, Trev,
the Texas Tea 2nd round was successful. I stirred the whole container and broke up all the pockets of separated components, new Bullets are more black as well.
HiTek Bullet porn?
150361

Great news.
You are right, they are all very pretty. Porn ????, may be,... depends on how you look at them...

[Ausglock]

Good stuff.
I have just coated and baked with some OLD GOLD that was mixed back in March this year. This was the powder.
It has been sitting on the bench. Worked 100% fine.

[HI-TEK]

Good stuff.
I have just coated and baked with some OLD GOLD that was mixed back in March this year. This was the powder.
It has been sitting on the bench. Worked 100% fine.

Got any pictures of it???

[Ausglock]

Got any pictures of it???
No..:mrgreen:

[PAT303]

The only issue with Hi-Tek is boredom,no leading in my barrels,no lube build up in my dies,no dirty case necks,nothing but trouble free boredom. Pat

[HI-TEK]

The only issue with Hi-Tek is boredom,no leading in my barrels,no lube build up in my dies,no dirty case necks,nothing but trouble free boredom. Pat

I am soooooo sorry..... did not plan for that......:bigsmyl2::drinks:

[Ausglock]

The only issue with Hi-Tek is boredom,no leading in my barrels,no lube build up in my dies,no dirty case necks,nothing but trouble free boredom. Pat

Well... Why the hell aren't you casting, Rather than carrying on ? :mrgreen:

[PAT303]

I am,I've got boolits coming out my bum,over 200 303's last weekend,almost a 100 6.5x55's and 60 or so 25/303's this weekend,not to mention my weekly 357 count and I've hardly made a dent in my stash,3P practise this week,another 100 or so,life's tough. Pat

[Ausglock]

hahaha... Yeah. I've been pumping out 205gn 44's all day.
Yesterday was 180gn 40 cals.

[Shotgundrums]

hahaha... Yeah. I've been pumping out 205gn 44's all day.
Yesterday was 180gn 40 cals.
Ozglock, do you roll crimp your revolver cartridges?
SGD

[Ausglock]

Ozglock, do you roll crimp your revolver cartridges?
SGD

Yep, sure do. I run these through a Marlin lever gun.

[Shotgundrums]

Yep, sure do. I run these through a Marlin lever gun.
Ok cool, Me too. Only ubertis. Everything works great in them. I do like the micro groove rifling in the Marlins... If they still do that...
Hopefully soon, I'll be putting my smith 686P under the knife. Firstly, to make sure the barrel is not trumpeted. Then, to lap the tight spot from the junction. If all that is successful, ream the cylinder throats if needed. I just hope I don't need a .359+ bullet in the end.

[zomby woof]

First boolits are Red Copper, middle ones are Red Brick. I mixed 50/50 and got and nice deep red with a little metallic. I call it Red Brick copper or blood. http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/101_8948.JPG

[HI-TEK]

First boolits are Red Copper, middle ones are Red Brick. I mixed 50/50 and got and nice deep red with a little metallic. I call it Red Brick copper or blood. http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/101_8948.JPG

Great work, and it looks great..
You have now joined the mad Scientist clan, and invented a new colour.
Some coat with one colour, then use a different colour on top.
Pre-mixed, seems to provide most even final colour.

[Ausglock]

Good job.

[Leatherhead Bullets]

First boolits are Red Copper, middle ones are Red Brick. I mixed 50/50 and got and nice deep red with a little metallic. I call it Red Brick copper or blood. http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/101_8948.JPG
2 or 3 coats on those good looking boolits?

[Shotgundrums]

First boolits are Red Copper, middle ones are Red Brick. I mixed 50/50 and got and nice deep red with a little metallic. I call it Red Brick copper or blood. http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/101_8948.JPG
Looks like ou made your own candy apple red 😍

[HI-TEK]

Looks like ou made your own candy apple red 

Colour looks close, but not right ingredients for original Candy Apple.
Candy Apple has different components, and colour is more towards a dark pink.

[Ausglock]

Looks good. Might try tweeking it with a bit of 1035 gold. Going to try it now..

[zomby woof]

2 or 3 coats on those good looking boolits? I always use three coats. The first one is very light. One teaspoon to five pounds then 1 1/2 teaspoons to five pounds. The third coat gives it a much better look and coverage. This procedure gives me three coats with thirty pounds of boolits with the 20/100 powder mix.

[Michael J. Spangler]

On my third coat for some 429421 as I type.
Red copper liquid. Can't wait to size and load them.

[PAT303]

Shot 3P today,all up 90 rounds of 160grn CBE boolits over 20grns of 2205 in the 6.5x55,ran a Hoppies soaked patch down the bore and it came out clean.The load is nothing fancy,I put 5 into a 20c piece size group sitting unsupported today so it shoots,Hi-Tek is still boring to use,no clean up,leading nothing. Pat

[Shotgundrums]

151351
Candies

[HI-TEK]

151351
Candies

They are beautiful. You have done well.

[websterz]

A big thanks and a shout out to my buddy gunoil. A while back he sent me some Hi-Tek copper red to try out. It took me a while to get around to trying it out, but after resolving a couple of issues with my toaster oven I got it right. These are Lee .452 230 grain truncated cones sized to .451. 151529

[HI-TEK]

A big thanks and a shout out to my buddy gunoil. A while back he sent me some Hi-Tek copper red to try out. It took me a while to get around to trying it out, but after resolving a couple of issues with my toaster oven I got it right. These are Lee .452 230 grain truncated cones sized to .451. 151529

They look great. It looks like you have gotten coating/drying/baking to perfection.
Gunoil is a great guy, and has really pushed the coatings with exhaustive tests, to see if works in all sorts of end uses.. So far, all is good.

Other great news is, that our local lady shooter in Perth, who won world record recently, (using Hi-Tek coated cast alloy), has again won a world record, by beating her own score.
It is another world record in the bag for the Hi-Tek coating, used by an excellent shooter.
I am sooooo pleased, with such great results being achieved.:grin::grin::grin::grin:

[websterz]

124 grain Lee truncated cone tumble lube design .356 coated twice. I'm liking this stuff!!151583

[websterz]

Four and a half hours ago these were ingots sitting on my casting bench. By my count there are 1020 boolits on that tray ready to size and load! Hi-Tek and a Lee six banger make a helluva combo!151588

[gunoil]

Wow, nice pile of boolits there.

[websterz]

I think we're going to be ordering some Zombie green real soon!

[zomby woof]

I think we're going to be ordering some Zombie green real soon! Yea, that green looks mighty tempting

[zomby woof]

Hey Hi-Tek, can you tell me which powder colors have the metallic in them? Thanks. Black Cherry, Black, Red Brick, Zombi Green, Candy Apple Red, Bronze 500, Red Copper, Gold 1035, Gun Metal, Black 1035, Old Gold

[HI-TEK]

Hey Hi-Tek, can you tell me which powder colors have the metallic in them? Thanks. Black Cherry, Black, Red Brick, Zombi Green, Candy Apple Red, Bronze 500, Red Copper, Gold 1035, Gun Metal, Black 1035, Old Gold

The coatings with "metallic type luster" are,
Red Copper, Blush Copper, Bronze 500, Red Bronze 502, Glitter Bronze 530, Texas Tea, Black 1035, Black OG, Yellow Gold, Sunny Gold, Old Gold, 1035Gold, Candy Apple, Zombie Green.

Other coloured coatings do not have metallic type luster/glitter.

Hope it answers your question.

[HI-TEK]

Four and a half hours ago these were ingots sitting on my casting bench. By my count there are 1020 boolits on that tray ready to size and load! Hi-Tek and a Lee six banger make a helluva combo!151588

Nice bit of work.
Hope you are happy with your results.

[websterz]

Not quite as happy as I'll be sending them downrange, but I'm loving the H-T!

[HI-TEK]

Not quite as happy as I'll be sending them downrange, but I'm loving the H-T!

It is always difficult parting with good products, that were made with your hard work.
I am glad that the coating stands up to expectations.

[Gremlin460]

I left around 1200 outside drying today. I then got a work call and went out for a few hours, when I came back I found it had rained during the time I was away. Not sure if this is going to affect the coating.
Tommorow I will lay them out in the sun for a few hours and hopefully there will be no issues.

[Avenger442]

I left around 1200 outside drying today. I then got a work call and went out for a few hours, when I came back I found it had rained during the time I was away. Not sure if this is going to affect the coating.
Tommorow I will lay them out in the sun for a few hours and hopefully there will be no issues.

I accidentally got some of my coated bullets wet about four or five minutes after they were set out to dry. I didn't have a problem when I dried them and applied the second coat. I think the acetone had probably already flashed off and the surface of the coating was dry.

[Gremlin460]

I accidentally got some of my coated bullets wet about four or five minutes after they were set out to dry. I didn't have a problem when I dried them and applied the second coat. I think the acetone had probably already flashed off and the surface of the coating was dry.

That's what I was thinking, mine had been laying in 28/30c temp for at least 45 mins.
I mainly posted so others would have a bit more data. Seems Hitec ticks another box on the handy list.
If it is dry , even though it has not been baked, it still is quite resilient. Be it handling or pouring into a contain from the drying rack.
Maybe Joe could give us an opinion on the time frame limits, if any, between dried coating and baking. For example, is it possible to coat/dry several batches, store them for a week or so, then have one day of boolit baking.
This would suit my style just fine, I leave my oven to preheat for 30 mins to get stable heat into the clay bricks. So only having to pre-heat once a week or fortnight can save money on the power bill over preheating several times in a week.

One last item, I don't think Powder coating would stand up to a rain shower before baking :P , one for the HT camp!! :kidding:

[HI-TEK]

That's what I was thinking, mine had been laying in 28/30c temp for at least 45 mins.
I mainly posted so others would have a bit more data. Seems Hitec ticks another box on the handy list.
If it is dry , even though it has not been baked, it still is quite resilient. Be it handling or pouring into a contain from the drying rack.
Maybe Joe could give us an opinion on the time frame limits, if any, between dried coating and baking. For example, is it possible to coat/dry several batches, store them for a week or so, then have one day of boolit baking.
This would suit my style just fine, I leave my oven to preheat for 30 mins to get stable heat into the clay bricks. So only having to pre-heat once a week or fortnight can save money on the power bill over preheating several times in a week.

One last item, I don't think Powder coating would stand up to a rain shower before baking :P , one for the HT camp!! :kidding:

Gremlin,
Good questions.
I will try to address each area.
1. Coating and leaving, I have seen coated non baked projectiles left for weeks, and they seemed to bake OK.
2. Getting them wet, or washed with rain, (and before baking) may be not so good. It is possible, that some components, that is caught in the drying film, may be leached and washed away.
These trapped materials, are required for good cure, and if they are depleted or leached out, the baking may not fully cure the film.
I suppose, the amount of leaching/washing by rain, will be determine if the coating will cure correctly.
3. If when drying coating, once it is dry, generally it forms a skin on surface, and this skin does offer some protection of coating. Frankly, I dont have any real data to supply about effects of water/rain, at various levels of drying of coatings before exposure to rain.
It is a simple case, to try and bake some, (few) to see if all is OK.
4. If coatings are not baked, it is easy to simply wash off contaminated/suspect coating with solvent used, and re-coat with well mixed coating, then, re-dry as normal, then bake when you are ready.
The "wash" solvent used, to remove suspect coating, then can be used/recycled, to make up fresh coating mixtures, so there is minimum waste.
Hope it answers your questions.

[Ausglock]

Grem.
I have about 400 40 cal pills that were coated but not baked here. they have been sitting for about 9 months in my shed. they are a bit dusty and got some dead moths etc in with them. I'll bake them this weekend and see how they go.

As for getting wet. I had 3 trays of 9mm bullets coated with the first coat but not baked. I spilled a 2 litre of water on them. let them dry and they were a lighter colour with splotches. bake them and they baked fine. applied second coat and no worries. final colour was the same as normal.

[HI-TEK]

Grem.
As for getting wet. I had 3 trays of 9mm bullets coated with the first coat but not baked. I spilled a 2 litre of water on them. let them dry and they were a lighter colour with splotches. bake them and they baked fine. applied second coat and no worries. final colour was the same as normal.

A single spill, may not be a good comparison, with continuous sprinkling rain over a period.
A single spill is quick, but rain, over a period, may be more damaging with that continuous washing/leaching action over an unspecified period.
It is a simple case to test a few and bake them to try to determine if all is OK.
If it is all OK, then baking the rest should also be OK.
If testing a few is not OK, then washing the rest (not baked) with solvent and recoating is better option, than baking it all, failing, and having to re-melt the lot.

[Gremlin460]

I baked 20 and they look fine,a few "whiteish" spots before going in the oven, but none after baking. 5 passed wipe/smash . So because they did that, my money would be on them being OK with the second coat.
Just something I had never come across before.
Thanks Trev on the non-bake period too. That means I can stock pile and just have ONE bake session rather than multiple.

[HI-TEK]

I baked 20 and they look fine,a few "whiteish" spots before going in the oven, but none after baking. 5 passed wipe/smash . So because they did that, my money would be on them being OK with the second coat.
Just something I had never come across before.
Thanks Trev on the non-bake period too. That means I can stock pile and just have ONE bake session rather than multiple.

Great news.
Hope all is well now.

[SpotHound]

Have we got a distributor in Oz yet? I want some mould release !

[PAT303]

Actually I wouldn't mind trying some mold release also.If you want the coating in Oz buy it straight from Joe. Pat

[HI-TEK]

Have we got a distributor in Oz yet? I want some mould release !

Just to confirm things, Hi-Tek products, (Coatings, Mold release), are all made and supplied from Australia.
Mold release is available as a concentrate and as an Aerosol.
As these are all DG, Class 3 flammable goods, and require road transport.
Unless it is ordered with other materials, costs become prohibitive for a single item due to minimum freight costs, and also being a DG material.

[zomby woof]

Hey Hi-Tek, is there a minimum powder mix? I find myself buying more and more powder colors. I can only cast so many boolits. Is the minimum mix 20/100??? It's getting cold here and casting season is slowly going away, Can I safely mix a 10/50 and coat with confidence? I ordered two new colors and have one one last cast to coat. Thanks.

[HI-TEK]

Hey Hi-Tek, is there a minimum powder mix? I find myself buying more and more powder colors. I can only cast so many boolits. Is the minimum mix 20/100??? It's getting cold here and casting season is slowly going away, Can I safely mix a 10/50 and coat with confidence? I ordered two new colors and have one one last cast to coat. Thanks.

Hi,
Thanks for your question and buying more coloured coatings.
Which colours did you order?

Mixing up 10 powder to 50 mls solvent is OK, as long as you are happy that you can reproduce your mix.
If you mix 20 gms powder 100 mls solvent of coating mix, and, if you dont use it all, as long as it is kept cool, out of sunlight, in well sealed container, from what I have been told, that after about 6 months, the mixture seems to work OK after re-mixing well.
I suppose, that you will have to decide, just how much coating mixture will be left after you make up a 100 mls, and, after you use some, is it worth the effort to save a small amount of mixture after you finish coating.
If you have 50 mls left after coating, and, if you are happy to try and save that for next season, then it should all good hopefully.
After storage, you may need a little more Acetone, and the colour may be slightly darker.
Then simply try to coat a few only with the old mix, and see how things go.
If it is found OK after storage, then again, all is good.
Hope I have answered your question.

[zomby woof]

Hi, Thanks for your question and buying more coloured coatings. Which colours did you order? Zombie green and Black 1035 (be here tomorrow). I find myself casting boolits just so I can coat them with new colors. Great product. Thanks

[Shotgundrums]

Zombie green and Black 1035 (be here tomorrow). I find myself casting boolits just so I can coat them with new colors. Great product. Thanks
Ain't that the truth...great product! We've become HT zombies, slaves to memorizing colors:veryconfu
Ohhh, Joe... How's that Jacket-like coating coming? :bigsmyl2: You know you want to.:bigsmyl2:

[HI-TEK]

Ain't that the truth...great product! We've become HT zombies, slaves to memorizing colors:veryconfu
Ohhh, Joe... How's that Jacket-like coating coming? :bigsmyl2: You know you want to.:bigsmyl2:

You have not yet realised, that we sent a hidden subliminal message with every coating that Hypnotises all users into using more and more products...lol...lol

Seriously, the closest colour that you may be looking for is the Bronze 500. From comments received, that seems the closest colour to a Jacket type.
If you over cook them, they darken but are very nice looking.
I have pictures with 10 minutes and 20 minutes baking at 200C, but I don't know how to post them on this site.:killingpc
I will ask Ausglock if he can steer me through this picture posting method, or alternatively send him the photos to post for me.
I am worried, that he may charge me consultancy fees....:lol:

[websterz]

My Zombie Green is here!!! Can't wait to try it out!

[andre3k]

I picked up a craigslist household convection oven for $30 last weekend. It really made a huge difference in the consistency of my bullets. With the toaster ovens I could easily tell they had hot spots and huge temperature swings and i would get some bullets that were darker than others in the batch. All of that has went away and best of all I can control temp in 5 degree increments. It held 390 degrees pretty easily today and was verified with two seperate thermometers.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/27/37455d7338ea624f84636a0c1fbbc5c2.jpg

I saw a guy on a Facebook casting group that applied his coating using an extra bowl on his vibratory tumbler. He said it worked well so I decided to try it today. I picked an extra bowl from harbor freight and started with 200 of my 40 cal 180grs. Let them tumble for about 5 seconds with no coating, did a quick circular squirt of coating around the bowl and 20 seconds later they were perfectly coated. Its a bit loud but it doesnt take long to coat them. Ended up doing 1200 today.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/27/f5aafbe2c8e1d90d6a420c5cdf7419ac.jpg

[Ausglock]

Are they the Accurate Molds 40 cal 180 pills??
Mine throws light at 178gn.

[andre3k]

No these are the now defunct Hardline Industries molds. Excellent molds. These come out right at 180 gns.

[Avenger442]

Though I would try my hand at hollow pointing some of the HiTek 308s in 1035 Gold. They didn't look as good as I wanted but this should help with the expansion. This alloy is about 16 BHN.

152144

152145

Drilling after coating is the only way to do it with the Forester hollow point bit. You have to mount the whole cartridge to do the work.

[zomby woof]

I can'stop........ http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/101_8950.JPG

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Nice looking crew.....

[Gremlin460]

WOW 6 sets of twins!!

I increased my workforce by 1400 last week, but I think some of them will be fired next week. (see what I did there).

Also DTPC a few for novelty sake.. Now I have done both I know for sure that PC is a whole lot more work over a longer period with more mess and less in the finished bucket.
The only positive is some of the brighter colours possible.. and that in itself is not enough to sway me from HT coating.

Hitek is sooo boring , clean,fast,reliable, and just plain works..

[Shotgundrums]

WOW 6 sets of twins!!

I increased my workforce by 1400 last week, but I think some of them will be fired next week. (see what I did there).

Also DTPC a few for novelty sake.. Now I have done both I know for sure that PC is a whole lot more work over a longer period with more mess and less in the finished bucket.
The only positive is some of the brighter colours possible.. and that in itself is not enough to sway me from HT coating.

Hitek is sooo boring , clean,fast,reliable, and just plain works..

ive had the same ol' liquid green for years. I remember Bullets being a nice green like these. A few months ago I mixed up some of that same green and it's a muddy looking goose shi* green. I'm guessing it's age had to do with that. S/W tested fine though.

[HI-TEK]

ive had the same ol' liquid green for years. I remember Bullets being a nice green like these. A few months ago I mixed up some of that same green and it's a muddy looking goose shi* green. I'm guessing it's age had to do with that. S/W tested fine though.

I am not surprised at you finding that colour after years of storage.
The resin system, will darken with age, and go a tan to brownish colour.
This will certainly affect final colour of the coatings.
Main thing is, that the coating should still work OK, as long as you realise, that the colour will be different to original, after such long term storage.
With the powdered versions, the darkening with storage is minimised, as long as product is stored in well sealed containers, out of sunlight and kept in a cool area.

[gundownunder]

Well, it's taken me over two years but I finally got my hindquarters into gear and started coating bullets.
I got my red copper liquid off Joe in Sept 2013 but then had problems finding money for an oven etc. Then sold my house and bought a new one, and had to wait to rebuild my reloading shed. Finally got the shed done 6 months ago and again had no money for an oven etc. Finally last month I bit the bullet and bought a BOV800 on the plastic fantastic. So a mammoth casting session saw me cast about 4000 bullets for my Marlin 32-20 and my Marlin 357. Today I coated them all, twice. The wipe tests all passed, and the smash tests all passed.
Gotta love the BOV800, set temp to 200C, chuck BBQ thermometer in and wait for the BOV to do a preheat. BBQ thermometer says 225C. Set time to 12 minutes and hit the go button. After that its just one tray after the other till they're all done.
I couldn't find any mesh at the local Bunnings or Stratco, so went with cookie trays, 2kg per tray. I started at 5 - 1 - 10, and 5ml/2kg, but I like the grooves coated too, so went to 5 - 1 - 15, and 7ml/2kg.
I'm guessing 2 years of sitting in storage sheds and garages etc, may have taken their toll on my coating products as the red copper is more like a badly tarnished dark copper. Either that or over 200C and a full 12 minutes is too much.
Next test will be the shooting.

[Ausglock]

G'day Bob.
Mate, drill a heap of holds in your cookie trays. this will help with air flow around the bullets.

Bunnings sell gutter guard mesh. use that.

[Avenger442]

Nice looking crew.....

Good to see you back Donnie.
By the way, the Hi-Tek 500 Plus mold release works great and not just on molds. I have used on my FreeChex III as a dry lube. Works real well in helping the check to drop out. I put some on a Lee push through sizer that I have polished twice trying to get a rough spot out that was deforming aluminum gas checks and it worked on it too.

[HI-TEK]

Good to see you back Donnie.
By the way, the Hi-Tek 500 Plus mold release works great and not just on molds. I have used on my FreeChex III as a dry lube. Works real well in helping the check to drop out. I put some on a Lee push through sizer that I have polished twice trying to get a rough spot out that was deforming aluminum gas checks and it worked on it too.

Great to get some good feed back.
I have been told, that some use the product on tips of MIG welders to stop weld spatter sticking to metal tube near welder tip. Apparently weld spatter simply falls off with slight tapping.
Another use was to stop hot melted plastic sticking to surfaces.
Another person, used it to help with drill lubrication with Stainless steels to stop pick up and chatter.
Another person used it on Aluminium saw to stop metal saw shavings sticking to saw blade.
There seems no end of diversity for this stuff, and was initially intended to stop Lead alloys from sticking.

[Ausglock]

I use it on the tracks that the roller door slide up and down in.

[Avenger442]

Thanks for the ideas guys.
I use a wire feed welder from time to time and those garage door rollers are noisy.
I need to do some casting and use it for what it was intended.

Was headed for the range today to do some more Hi-Tek load testing but rain is coming in and it looks like a wash until next week.

[Gremlin460]

Great to get some good feed back.
I have been told, that some use the product on tips of MIG welders to stop weld spatter sticking to metal tube near welder tip. Apparently weld spatter simply falls off with slight tapping.
Another use was to stop hot melted plastic sticking to surfaces.
Another person, used it to help with drill lubrication with Stainless steels to stop pick up and chatter.
Another person used it on Aluminium saw to stop metal saw shavings sticking to saw blade.
There seems no end of diversity for this stuff, and was initially intended to stop Lead alloys from sticking.

I aint telling you what I use it for.....

[Avenger442]

I aint telling you what I use it for.....

And I'm not sure we want to know.😜

[gunoil]

Thanks for the tips: my mig welder, dies and such! Gonna try on brake/gear cables on my velotrike. 500's good stuff.

Praise the lord pass the hitec.

[Shotgundrums]

My dream of firing hitek coated slugs through my Smith 686P has died
In the beginning process of lead lapping the tight spot near the force cone, I discovered a loose area just forward the that. This is not correctable, and as the bullet arrives in this area, a rush of hot high velocity gas will gas cut the bullet altimately taking the coating with it.
This sort of thing is often caused by trying to fire a bullet behind one stuck in the bore. I'm the original owner and never has this been done. Time to give smith and Wesson a call and ask questions.

[Ausglock]

Bugger.
My S&W 686-3 loves the 156RNFP with 2 coats.

[HI-TEK]

Thanks for the tips: my mig welder, dies and such! Gonna try on brake/gear cables on my velotrike. 500's good stuff.

Praise the lord pass the hitec.

It should work well, as long as you get it down between the cable sheath and cable.
After lube has traveled into required area, it will be a dry and very slick movement.
Please make sure, that you do not apply it to any where where brake pads are located.
It will really muck things up as your brakes may not work as stuff is extremely slippery and will not burn off.

[Redwoode]

What does your Smith like it's pills sized too?

[Shotgundrums]

It should work well, as long as you get it down between the cable sheath and cable.
After lube has traveled into required area, it will be a dry and very slick movement.
Please make sure, that you do not apply it to any where where brake pads are located.
It will really muck things up as your brakes may not work as stuff is extremely slippery and will not burn off.

hhmmmm... Prevents lead sticking... High heat resistance... Extremely slippery... I wonder if barrel bores can be seasoned with this... Proprietary in a coating?
Oh, Joe?...

[Ausglock]

I size to .358 for the 686. it is the 6" -3 with the 4 spot adjustable front sight.

[HI-TEK]

hhmmmm... Prevents lead sticking... High heat resistance... Extremely slippery... I wonder if barrel bores can be seasoned with this... Proprietary in a coating?
Oh, Joe?...


Good question.
The use of Hi-Tek 500 plus inside bores, may probably work OK.
I have not had any feed back about any one using it that way.
If you apply it, (possibly with a small soft rag pull through mop), make sure you dry bore well before use.
Keep mop, for any further re-applications.
Please let us know how you went.

[PAT303]

I size to .358 for the 686. it is the 6" -3 with the 4 spot adjustable front sight.
Shooting boolits under .358 dia in a 357 is a waste of powder IMHO. Pat

[gundownunder]

Geez, this really isn't rocket science, is it.
I cut the time back to 10 mins, still at 200c, upped the load to 3kg and still pass all wipe and smash tests.
Bit of a pain in the hindquarters when I need to chase the bullets across the yard after they ricochet out from under the hammer.

One question,
those of you who have upgraded from a grease grooved bullet to a non grooved bullet (preferably of the same design) Did you notice any difference in accuracy?

[PAT303]

I haven't found any difference,both shoot as well as I can,HT is MUCH cleaner,no dirty case necks,dies,fingers etc. Pat

[Ausglock]

A few 586 686 revo shooters like .357 and .3575 sizing.
One bloke uses 156RNFP sized to .3565 in his 686. excellent accuracy too.

[ioon44]

Geez, this really isn't rocket science, is it.
I cut the time back to 10 mins, still at 200c, upped the load to 3kg and still pass all wipe and smash tests.
Bit of a pain in the hindquarters when I need to chase the bullets across the yard after they ricochet out from under the hammer.

One question,
those of you who have upgraded from a grease grooved bullet to a non grooved bullet (preferably of the same design) Did you notice any difference in accuracy?

I have tried the 125 gr RN from Magma with the bevel and lube ring removed which made a 129 gr RN boolit, coated with the same mix of Hi-Tek and no leading either way but no change in accuracy.

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Check us out in our new vendor/sponsor section and enter for a chance to win some Hi-Tek products.

[Ausglock]

Have been asked to try 2 coats of black with 1 coat of gold over the top.
Will post photos.

[Ausglock]

Check us out in our new vendor/sponsor section and enter for a chance to win some Hi-Tek products.

Good noya, Donnie.

[HI-TEK]

Check us out in our new vendor/sponsor section and enter for a chance to win some Hi-Tek products.

For all people outside US, are all invited also. We cannot supply Aerosols or Flammable liquids by post, but will send an extra powdered coating instead, which may be a different colour.
I hope you all enter, and to all, good luck with the draw.

[Ausglock]

For all people outside US, are all invited also. We cannot supply Aerosols or Flammable liquids by post, but will send an extra powdered coating instead, which may be a different colour.
I hope you all enter, and to all, good luck with the draw.

Woohoo... Do I need anymore coatings???????????????????????:bigsmyl2:

[666damosydney]

Got my first order of Hiteck powder just waiting on my molds to arrive then i can start.
Getting lee 6 banger 105g SWC.358 and lee 6 banger 125g .358 RF going to size to .356
Went digging at my club last weekend got 80 lbs of range scrap to clean up.
never casted before or coated but been reading and watching heaps.
Thanks Joe

[HI-TEK]

Got my first order of Hiteck powder just waiting on my molds to arrive then i can start.
Getting lee 6 banger 105g SWC.358 and lee 6 banger 125g .358 RF going to size to .356
Went digging at my club last weekend got 80 lbs of range scrap to clean up.
never casted before or coated but been reading and watching heaps.
Thanks Joe

Sounds like you are getting into it.
My suggestion is, before you do any coating of any cast alloy, make up batch or batches of your scrap Lead, and try and determine hardness.
You may have to play, to get the correct hardness of alloy, before you make lots and lots of cast bullets, that may not be suitable in your application.
Range scrap could contain soft Lead as well as harder Lead alloys, and mixture, may nor be adequate for suitable casting.

[gunoil]

Sounds like you are getting into it.
My suggestion is, before you do any coating of any cast alloy, make up batch or batches of your scrap Lead, and try and determine hardness.
You may have to play, to get the correct hardness of alloy, before you make lots and lots of cast bullets, that may not be suitable in your application.
Range scrap could contain soft Lead as well as harder Lead alloys, and mixture, may nor be adequate for suitable casting.


I have bunch of good lead, when l run out l get lead from foundry made for boolits, Its just best. Iam not good enough to get the mix right.

Remember to stain that first coat Dont put it on to thick 666

[HI-TEK]

I have bunch of good lead, when l run out l get lead from foundry made for boolits, Its just best. Iam not good enough to get the mix right.

Remember to stain that first coat Dont put it on to thick 666

You are right with both areas.
It is understood, that getting no cost or low cost alloy is OK. But, after much problems caused by inconsistent results, eventually, many realise, that after spending hours and hours of work, it could have been easier to get correct alloy to use in the first place.
What is great, that most alloy foundries, supply blends of concentrated metal ingots, that can be used by hobbyists, to modify small batch soft Lead alloys, and be able to produce a suitable hardness alloy using their range collected Lead.

[gunoil]

I get mine from jon, they bring it on big truck w/fork lift. Got tired of my mess and headaches. Its like lyman mix. Good stuff.

[Ausglock]

Got my first order of Hiteck powder just waiting on my molds to arrive then i can start.
Getting lee 6 banger 105g SWC.358 and lee 6 banger 125g .358 RF going to size to .356
Went digging at my club last weekend got 80 lbs of range scrap to clean up.
never casted before or coated but been reading and watching heaps.
Thanks Joe

With flat base bullets, coat once. Size. and coat the second time.

I hate flat base bullets.....

[666damosydney]

I was going to water quench to make it a little harder thanks for the advice Joe and gunoil

[666damosydney]

Thats what i was thinking 1 coat size 2nd coat test then load and shoot.
This first batch will be from range scrap only because we needed our range deleaded lol

[Ausglock]

Range scrap is OK.
Which range to you shoot at? Blacktown? St Ives? Most range lead will be around 12 BHN which is fine for target loads in 38 spl, 45ACP even 120 power factor 9mm loads.
You going to be casting/ supplying John from the bakery?

[PAT303]

I coat my boolits twice or three times depending on whether I'm happy with the result,I then heat them as hot as my oven gets too for 20 minutes and drop them straight into water.My mix is 50% COWW with pure lead and range scrap the other 50%,all done by wieght and my boolits after two weeks rest are as hard as buggery,if I smash test them they shoot out from under the hammer like a boolit. Pat

[666damosydney]

Range scrap is OK.
Which range to you shoot at? Blacktown? St Ives? Most range lead will be around 12 BHN which is fine for target loads in 38 spl, 45ACP even 120 power factor 9mm loads.
You going to be casting/ supplying John from the bakery?

Ha ha small world i shoot with John its his fault i am doing this project he trying to learn me the best safe way and yes good chance he will share the spoils if i can do it right.
we shoot service at NDPC northern districts pistol club at kenthurst

[Ausglock]

Ha ha small world i shoot with John its his fault i am doing this project he trying to learn me the best safe way and yes good chance he will share the spoils if i can do it right.
we shoot service at NDPC northern districts pistol club at kenthurst

Just got am email from Jon looking for a few 1000 125gn SWC.

[666damosydney]

Just got am email from Jon looking for a few 1000 125gn SWC.

I gave him some of your SWC 125's to try to test for the champs coming up so must be for that.
i'm not that good yet so maybe just play in the shadows for a while lol

[Ausglock]

Keep at it. the coating is easy. If you need any help, give me a cooee.

[666damosydney]

Keep at it. the coating is easy. If you need any help, give me a cooee.

thank Trev shall do mate dam molds in transit some where had to pay through the nose from the states as no one in aus had them or could tell me how long until they could get them

[Ausglock]

I get all my Lee gear from titanreloading.com
Best and fairest with price and shipping.

[666damosydney]

I get all my Lee gear from titanreloading.com
Best and fairest with price and shipping.

I will take a look thanks Trev ;)

[Gremlin460]

thank Trev shall do mate dam molds in transit some where had to pay through the nose from the states as no one in aus had them or could tell me how long until they could get them

Have you tried CBE near Toowoomba? The supplied a 9mm TC 125 with no looobe groove within 5 days. Damn nice mold to work with , 4 cav brass.

[Ausglock]

Grem.
They might be nice molds, But he will not make molds for machine casting... His loss.

Value for money, the lee 6 banger wins every time as far as hand casting goes. Shame there is not a larger range of shapes...

[666damosydney]

Have you tried CBE near Toowoomba? The supplied a 9mm TC 125 with no looobe groove within 5 days. Damn nice mold to work with , 4 cav brass.

Thanks Grem CBE got a website tried to google CBE but no luck

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Check us out in our new vendor/sponsor section and enter for a chance to win some Hi-Tek products.


Shameless bump

[dikman]

Guys, is there a list of the colours somewhere? And are some "metallic"? A couple of us want to try it out and it's been left up to me to pick the colour! I figure a nice "jacketed" look would be nice - whatever colour that is - along with the Zombie Green (for contrast!) that I keep seeing reference to.

I've recovered approx. 800 kilos of range scrap from my local pistol range, and it's tested to approx. 12 BHN. Apart from the odd round ball from Black Powder shooting, and a bit of .22 stuff (a lot of it falls through the sieve!) it's pretty much mostly commercial coated stuff, so is hard. I would imagine this would apply to most pistol ranges here in Oz?

Regarding Titan Reloading, I've bought a fair bit of gear from them and can highly recommend them. Their prices are good and service and shipping is prompt. (One of the reasons I buy from them, rather than local, is that they have everything in stock unlike here, where most places have a bit of this and a bit of that but no-one has ever had everything in stock that I've been looking for).

Also, would one of these convection ovens work for doing small batches? There seems to be more of these available used than normal ovens.

153528

[HI-TEK]

Guys, is there a list of the colours somewhere? And are some "metallic"? A couple of us want to try it out and it's been left up to me to pick the colour! I figure a nice "jacketed" look would be nice - whatever colour that is - along with the Zombie Green (for contrast!) that I keep seeing reference to.

How many colours do want to see?



Also, would one of these convection ovens work for doing small batches? There seems to be more of these available used than normal ovens.

153528

I would not recommend these type of ovens. They are not suitable for baking coatings.

[Ausglock]

If Joe got his act together and got a website, he could put all the colours on there.
But, if you want close to jacketed colour, go with Bronze 500.

Those "ovens" you pictured are no good... ask me how I know............

[dikman]

Thanks guys, glad I asked about the oven....I've seen convection microwaves for sale cheap, but I know that microwaves and metal don't mix too well! Guess I'll keep looking. When I get myself organised I'll order the stuff (been flat out building a shed for my sewing machines and reloading gear).

Yeah, a website would be nice, I'm surprised that in this internet era Joe hasn't got one.

[Ausglock]

Hahahahaha... joe??? website? hahahahahahahaha..
he can hardly work email......

[Gremlin460]

Thanks Grem CBE got a website tried to google CBE but no luck

Try this..

http://www.castbulletengineering.com.au/

[666damosydney]

Try this..

http://www.castbulletengineering.com.au/

Thanks Grem

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Check us out in our new vendor/sponsor section and enter for a chance to win some Hi-Tek products.


Get those entries in. I will announce the winner on Monday (11/23)

[Ausglock]

Good work, Donnie.
I hope there are mountains of entries.
For those not in the USA, remember HITEK Joe will service an international winner...[smilie=w:

[HI-TEK]

Good work, Donnie.
I hope there are mountains of entries.
For those not in the USA, remember HITEK Joe will service an international winner...[smilie=w:

Just had a thought. I am wondering, if we can draw two winners?
One from US and one from elsewhere.
(I have not asked Donnie about this, and hope not to pre-empt things)
US winner may be serviced by High Performance coatings, and destinations outside US Hi-Tek will look after.
This way, two winners will benefit.
For all you last minute entries, it is worth the entry.

[Gremlin460]

I already use Hi-Tec so I am already a WINNAH!!

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Just had a thought. I am wondering, if we can draw two winners?
One from US and one from elsewhere.
(I have not asked Donnie about this, and hope not to pre-empt things)
US winner may be serviced by High Performance coatings, and destinations outside US Hi-Tek will look after.
This way, two winners will benefit.
For all you last minute entries, it is worth the entry.


Joe,
I have no problem with you handling the international winner. I will pm you with the lucky winner.
Thanks for the offer and your generosity.

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

The entries are now closed. I will post the winner here at this evening around 5 pm CST
Thanks to all who entered.

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Ioon44 is the lucky winner.

John, go to www.hi-performancebulletcoatings.com and send me a PM with your color selection.

Richard Pye is our international winner. Please contact Hi-Tek via Pm and he will get you taken care of.

Thanks again to all who entered.

Donnie

[hnusz]

How long can you store coated bullets that have not been baked. I have a couple of hours every night after work before the wife gets home. Thinking about coating up bunch and baking them on Friday. I don't work Fridays.

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

How long can you store coated bullets that have not been baked. I have a couple of hours every night after work before the wife gets home. Thinking about coating up bunch and baking them on Friday. I don't work Fridays.


They can sit for quite some time and will cure just fine. Several days will be no problem at all.

[Avenger442]

Congratulations Ioon44. I guess we will know the winner outside the US tonight?

[Ausglock]

How long can you store coated bullets that have not been baked. I have a couple of hours every night after work before the wife gets home. Thinking about coating up bunch and baking them on Friday. I don't work Fridays.

G'day. I have had coated. unbaked bullets sitting for over 1 month. They baked fine.

[dikman]

That would be me, Avenger!:guntootsmiley:. In my 67 1/2 years this is only the second time I've won something! (Although when we had conscription in the 70's I guess I won that when my name didn't come up). Thanks guys - Donnie for running the contest and Joe for graciously providing for an International winner.

What a great Chrissie present :D.

[HI-TEK]

That would be me, Avenger!:guntootsmiley:. In my 67 1/2 years this is only the second time I've won something! (Although when we had conscription in the 70's I guess I won that when my name didn't come up). Thanks guys - Donnie for running the contest and Joe for graciously providing for an International winner.

What a great Chrissie present :D.


Congratulations.
From what I have heard, there were many who entered.
Lucky you.
Please advise, what coloured coating you would like, and it should be posted in next day or two.
Please send me your postal details, on a PM.
Hi-Tek

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=Avenger442;3446534]Congratulations Ioon44.

Congratulations Ioon44.
You must also be lucky as well.
It is great to get free stuff.
Hope you find it OK.
Hi-Tek

[Ausglock]

Congrats to the winners.

Well done to Donnie and Joe for putting up the prizes.

[hnusz]

Thanks guys

[ioon44]

Many thanks to Donnie and Joe for putting up the prizes.

I already use 5 different Hi-Tek colors, what a great way to try another color. I think I will try the Gun Metal color.
So now I need to cast some more boolits.

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Many thanks to Donnie and Joe for putting up the prizes.

I already use 5 different Hi-Tek colors, what a great way to try another color. I think I will try the Gun Metal color.
So now I need to cast some more boolits.


Gun Metal it is

[ioon44]

[QUOTE=Avenger442;3446534]Congratulations Ioon44.

Congratulations Ioon44.
You must also be lucky as well.
It is great to get free stuff.
Hope you find it OK.
Hi-Tek

Thank you Joe, I mostly don't win drawings so it is great to win this.
I have used 5 different colors with great results, I like the metallic powders the best.

[slide]

I am a Hi-Tek convert. Kinda sounds like a AA meeting. I had a little trouble starting out. Thank goodness for Donnie. After trying this and trying that we finally figured out that I was putting the coating on too thin. I increased it by a 1/2 teaspoon and the leading was gone! I would take 1000 grams of bullets and put one teaspoon and tumble. Do this twice and barrel would lead pretty bad. Switched to the mek and it gives a smoother coat. Tumble for 20 seconds and dump on screens. the only way I can describe the first coat it looks like bullets are stained. Don't be afraid to try increasing the amount if things are not going well. Almost forgot, increasing the amount made sizing a lot easier. I was going from about .362 down to .358 with no scraping. Thanks to Donnie at Bayou Bullets. He is a great guy!

[Avenger442]

I Cast about 15 pounds of rifle bullets today using the 500 mold release and have a question. How long is the release lasting on the molds? I know one application is probably not going to last forever but has anyone determined how long?

It worked pretty well. Used two molds. One was a Lee mold that had given me problems in the past with lead smears (probably my casting technique). The release took care of that and the bullets dropped out easier. The other Lee mold was a new unused mold. It had been cleaned and wiped down with synthetic two cycle oil. I heated them both up on a hot plate. The new mold was used last so it spent some time on the hot plate and the mold release turned brown in spots. Don't know if it was reacting with the oil or what was the cause. It cast OK but there were quite a few wrinkled bullets to remelt. Never had bullets drop so easily out of a mold as I did on this new mold.

[gunoil]

l would hav scrubbed lee mold til no oil was on it. Then apply 500. Any new mold gets nothing but 500 here. I put 500 on fairly often. lets see what boss says.

[Ausglock]

Scrub with soap and water. dry and them apply 500 with a nylon brush (tooth brush) rub it into the mold cavites.
Then heat the mold on a hot plate and start casting. I only use lithium grease on the sprue pivot pin. a light spry of 500 every few 1000 keeps them running sweet.

[zomby woof]

How would Hi-Tek mold release work inside a compensator? I'm getting some build up in my STI and looking for a solution. Maybe sprue plate lube?

[dsa]

How would Hi-Tek mold release work inside a compensator? I'm getting some build up in my STI and looking for a solution. Maybe sprue plate lube?

Good question. I know others are using Dillon Case lube sprayed in the comp and they say that makes clean up easier.

[Ausglock]

How would Hi-Tek mold release work inside a compensator? I'm getting some build up in my STI and looking for a solution. Maybe sprue plate lube?

Can't see why it wouldn't. Try it. Suck it and see..

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

How would Hi-Tek mold release work inside a compensator? I'm getting some build up in my STI and looking for a solution. Maybe sprue plate lube?


Can't say for sure on the comp, but it works quite well as a sprue cutter lube.

[fredj338]

Anyone using the liquid & powder forms? I just tried my first powder form, mixes easily but seems to be thinner? It seemed like I needed 3 coats to get good cover be, but it turned out well. I mixed it 1tsp per 2oz of acetone.

[dsa]

Anyone using the liquid & powder forms? I just tried my first powder form, mixes easily but seems to be thinner? It seemed like I needed 3 coats to get good covets be, but it turned out well. I mixed it 1tsp per 2oz of acetone.

Sounds thin. 20gm powder to 100cc's acetone, measure it out and I think you will be happy with the results.

[Ausglock]

I hate bloody teaspoons.

Just get a $5 set of drug dealers digi scales from Ebay.

FFS... if you do it right, it works!!!

[ioon44]

Anyone who cast and reloads should have powder scales, 20 grams = 308.65 grains. I mix 20 grams to 125 ml for the first coat and 20 grams to 100 ml second coat. Works every time.

[Ausglock]

Playing with a new version of the Zombie Green.
Colour is lighter and very shiny.
Bakes OK, but with slight wipeoff.
Joe is going to tweek it and send another test sample.

[kryogen]

I hate bloody teaspoons.
Me too.

As for me, pc and hitek don't work with my wheelweight lead. So I'm back to lubing.

[666damosydney]

Finally got my molds 105 swc 6 banger lee.
Casted first time for about 4 hours getting to know what i was doing ended up with 741 usable boolits.
Tried my candy apple red tonight mixed half test batch 10g powder and 50ml acetone i think mabe didnt mix enough was a bit chunky had a boolit in.
Question i have for every one is the destruckions say about 1ml per 400g but others said they used 1.5 teaspoons for 1000g.
So i think i used a little too much and didn't mix 100% not sure.
Only tiny bit come of on wipe smashed 2 first hit looked ok but took 3 hits to squash and a tiny bit of flaking a little confused where may be got it wrong.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/izxf61zuhyfh8z8/20151129_172119.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zbhpmd3pkrf5vh1/20151203_172057.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zu9vjxv3yvzzse7/20151203_195908.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/i4vuwakq59gcz0p/20151203_201724.jpg?dl=0

Forgot to ask is better to do 1 coat resized i am going from .358 down to .356 or 2 coats then resize?

[Ausglock]

Damo. Use 6mls per 2KG of bullets.

When you mix use 20gms to 100mls Acetone. don't do 1/2 mixes. this stuff will stay good for months when it is mixed.
When you mix leave it for 1 hour to re-act before you coat.
Let air dry for about 1/2 hour after coating. put a fan of them to speed up air drying.

Check that your oven is actually at 200 deg before putting the tray in.
Once the tray is in start timing from then.

One coat, size then apply second coat.

[kryogen]

This.
Those coated bullets will not work, they will lead. remelt or tumble lube.



Damo. Use 6mls per 2KG of bullets.

When you mix use 20gms to 100mls Acetone. don't do 1/2 mixes. this stuff will stay good for months when it is mixed.
When you mix leave it for 1 hour to re-act before you coat.
Let air dry for about 1/2 hour after coating. put a fan of them to speed up air drying.

Check that your oven is actually at 200 deg before putting the tray in.
Once the tray is in start timing from then.

One coat, size then apply second coat.

[popper]

Kryogen - baloney. I got a good sized pig with HiTek coated 40SW. South/north complete pass through @ ~50ft. Nice round entry hole in the butt. Pistol had about 200 rnds through it since last cleaning. Just a few drops of oil on the slide & shoot.

[slide]

I am still a rookie at the hitek and once I got it figured out I am impressed. Bullets that always leaded in my guns don't lead anymore. One dry patch will usually clean the barrel. Everything has to be right in order for this stuff to work. It is getting easier as I go along.

[Avenger442]

.
Only tiny bit come of on wipe smashed 2 first hit looked ok but took 3 hits to squash and a tiny bit of flaking a little confused where may be got it wrong.


If you want to smash it with one wack use a 2 pound sledge. Or a one kilo hammer as you Aussies say. Just make sure you have it on something that will not break. Works every time on my alloy even the BHN 20. Some of my smash test have produce a little flaking, very little almost a small amount of dust. They shot fine.

I have some .308 bullets that are straight COWW 12 BHN that I baked an extra 20 minutes and at 420 F. These suckers are almost chocolate instead of the 1035 Gold color. Shooting them one grain to three grains under max produces a white smoke similar to shooting black powder just not as dense. No leading but terrible accuracy. I can drop the charge and get it to stop doing the smoke and accuracy gets better. I think I read about this somewhere in this 6000+ post but do not remember where and just don't want to hunt it. I know I'm over taxing the COWW bullets with the charges pressure but confused about white smoke especially with no leading.

Joe
I was trying to produce the jacket again:bigsmyl2:.

[666damosydney]

Damo. Use 6mls per 2KG of bullets.

When you mix use 20gms to 100mls Acetone. don't do 1/2 mixes. this stuff will stay good for months when it is mixed.
When you mix leave it for 1 hour to re-act before you coat.
Let air dry for about 1/2 hour after coating. put a fan of them to speed up air drying.

Check that your oven is actually at 200 deg before putting the tray in.
Once the tray is in start timing from then.

One coat, size then apply second coat.

Thanks for the help Trev i thought i buggered it up a bit too keen lol.
I will get a better bottle for the mix only had a small one on hand.
i have a oven temp that i watch untill 200c then put in and time 10 min.
the joys of learning luving the challenge just need to slow down i think.

Thanks for every one else chiming in

[fredj338]

If you want to smash it with one wack use a 2 pound sledge. Or a one kilo hammer as you Aussies say. Just make sure you have it on something that will not break. Works every time on my alloy even the BHN 20. Some of my smash test have produce a little flaking, very little almost a small amount of dust. They shot fine.

I have some .308 bullets that are straight COWW 12 BHN that I baked an extra 20 minutes and at 420 F. These suckers are almost chocolate instead of the 1035 Gold color. Shooting them one grain to three grains under max produces a white smoke similar to shooting black powder just not as dense. No leading but terrible accuracy. I can drop the charge and get it to stop doing the smoke and accuracy gets better. I think I read about this somewhere in this 6000+ post but do not remember where and just don't want to hunt it. I know I'm over taxing the COWW bullets with the charges pressure but confused about white smoke especially with no leading.

Joe
I was trying to produce the jacket again:bigsmyl2:.

I tried HT in my 6.8 & at a modest 2000fps, accuracy was almost none existent. I had much better luck w/ PC. I think the HT is a great product, use it for a lot of my pistol bullets, but I think 1500fps or so is the limit for good accuracy.

[Ausglock]

Damo. Go to ALDI and buy the 6 pack of Apple juice in the pop top 250ml bottles. These are what I use for mixing and applying the coating.

I don't measure when coating, Just use a 1 second dribble (been doing this for too long).

[Avenger442]

I tried HT in my 6.8 & at a modest 2000fps, accuracy was almost none existent. I had much better luck w/ PC. I think the HT is a great product, use it for a lot of my pistol bullets, but I think 1500fps or so is the limit for good accuracy.

I know some of you have said you can't get it to work. But it works in my guns. Have some alloys that are 16 & 18 BHN that will do 1 1/2" groups at 100yards in my .308 with 43 grains H4895 and a 160 grain bullet. That's getting close to max load and well over 2000 fps. I'm deer hunting with it this year. I don't think it's the HiTek. I can't shoot 12 BHN in my 308 approaching the max load and get any accuracy because the lead is too soft. We have had that discussion on this and other pages. The .223, .308 have both shot 1 1/2" groups at 100 yards with no leading if I use the right alloy and powder. The .44 mag .44 special and .45 all shot as good as I can shoot with them with no leading (not much of a pistol marksman still learning).

The lube is OK was just wondering about the smoke.

[Gremlin460]

Thanks for the help Trev i thought i buggered it up a bit too keen lol.
I will get a better bottle for the mix only had a small one on hand.
i have a oven temp that i watch untill 200c then put in and time 10 min.
the joys of learning luving the challenge just need to slow down i think.

Thanks for every one else chiming in

When I first started I could not for the life of me get the amount right, Trev is just a freak that he can meter by eye :P . This is a bad video how I solved the problem, it may help you when starting out.

http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Gremlin460/media/VIDEO0020_zps0bf060e4.mp4.html?o=62

I could now do the same as Trev, that's what experience does for you. I still use the syringes though, more habit than nessesity. Eitherway works, just what you comfortable with.

[dk1965]

Hi i am from Denmark is there a place in Europe where i can get Hi tek powder coating

[HI-TEK]

Hi i am from Denmark is there a place in Europe where i can get Hi tek powder coating

Hi.
Can you please send me a private message , and we can advise about things.
Products are sold and used all over Europe already.
Hi-Tek