I have read a lot of information on powdercoating bullets for bolt action rifle but not much for semi-autos. I am interested in bullet recommendations and PC techniques for AR-15/Mini-14, M1A, M1 Garrand and Carbine.
I have read a lot of information on powdercoating bullets for bolt action rifle but not much for semi-autos. I am interested in bullet recommendations and PC techniques for AR-15/Mini-14, M1A, M1 Garrand and Carbine.
I PC everything! Never any problems, as long as the gun does work! Just follow the rules on here about PC'ing and you should be fine in anything that shoots boolits.
Stick with PUBLISHED load data for the cal you are loading and follow good re-loading practices.
Good luck handling those teeny pills for the AR15!!!! I quit that long ago. Way to small to mess with. I just buy FMJ's by the bulk and load those rather than messing with trying to coat 223's anymore.
Re the M1, anyone know how fast you can push a PC bullet in one? Can you get the full 2800 fps or so? And do you have a problem putting a gas check on them, or do you even need one?
With PC I GC over 1800 fps. You can GC before PCing - just don't contaminate the boolit.
Using an alloy with some copper, PC's and GC I gone over 3200 fps with 223's.
Sure you and launch them at 2800 fps but I doubt you'll have an resemblance of accuracy PC or not . Another thing to remember PC will increase the dia of the bullet and also on the nose portion , if you have a bullet that just kisses the lands if it's a bore rider it may end up too big after you PC and that combo don't work well for auto loaders .
If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!
I have in the past used pc for a garand but no where near 2800 fps. I found down around 2000 fps much more accurate. I have started using hytek on them and like it as I can do larger batches. The 311299 works good.
jim
I push 168gr GC PC to 2700 in 308W with accuracy in AR10 (several OPs do the same). Imho, bore of M1 will make a difference.
Whatever!
I powder coat for my SKS with no problems. I just had to adjust for a charge that would cycle the action, it was pretty close to max load. But the PC'd boolits don't affect function or accuracy at all.
That is max load in the Lyman cast bullet handbook. No where near max for J-word bullets.
Last edited by tankgunner59; 05-16-2020 at 06:37 PM.
I have, like Jim said above, found the 223s to be just a little too much of a pain to make it worth the effort in an AR platform and just purchase bulk jacketed bullets. However The Noe 314-129-SP sized .310 before and after powder coating runs real slick in my Blackout upper.Never any leading or feeding problems with the bullet seated to the crimp groove and lightly crimped with the Lee collet crimp die. Over 17gr. LilGun sort of mimics a 7.62X39 round. Gp
i size and seat the GC first (push through), then PC, size again. shoot cast in almost all my semi's, romanian dragunov in 7.62x54, zastava m76 in 8mm mauser, ar15 in 50 beo, 450 BM, 458 socom, 7.62x39, 300 BO, 6.8 SPC, 223.
I powdercoat 7.62x39mm myself, but I don't drive it to insane velocities either, no problems, have run them through SKS, vz-58 and now a BREN 2 MS pistol with decent luck. 21gr AA 1680 gets me about 1750 FPS, IIRC. Boolits are double coated and then sized/gas checked.
Last edited by armoredman; 05-17-2020 at 01:37 AM.
Remember RPM and rate of twist, M1s I believe are 1 in 10.
the 130 rcbs spitzer gas checked 30 cal is my go to bullet in the 300 bo and 308 ar10s. It probably would work well in the 762x39 too. It would be easy to get 312 but coating after installing the check. That and many mini 30s are 308 anyway. I run them at 1900 fps out of my blackout and get 2moa accuracy at a 100 yards out of my bo and am sure with some time and load development (that was the first load I tried) I could carve some off of that.
Don't know about 2800, but I fired some plain based PC bullets in my M1 and underestimated the velocity I would get with the load. Velocity was well over 2000. I managed to recover one of the bullets from the range and the PC was still in great shape. So-- I think you might be able to get up there but have not proved it.
Hick: Iron sights!
Newtire: To add a little copper in your alloy, mix in a little copperhard babbit. Be careful not to over do it as too much copper will cause spout freeze if using a bottom pour pot. I lucked out and a friend gave me twenty pounds of this babbit from an old machine shop that was closing. Gp
Sounds like engine main, rod and cam bearing material.?
Be careful is right. If you get too much you will be diluting it with more non-cu alloy. Felix and I played around with cu babbit years ago and wound up making some cu rich ingots (diluted from the original babbit) to add to other alloys. Even ladle pouring can be a little challenging as it tends to 'sheet' as soon as it hits the air while coming out of the spoon. Water dropped and aged it's HARD.
It ain't rocket science, it's boolit science.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |