Break-free CLP

[Lee]

Many Thanks............................................ .Lee

[j4570]

I would also say CLP is pricey. I use it mainly on the AR and stainless firearms.

That being said, I found that FP10 is better on Stainless firearms.

I agree as a general solvent, CLP isn't that great, and I'll use Hoppes (bought in large containers cheap). No, I don't mix my own Ed's Red, as I don't have use for that much stuff.

I really hate to admit it, but stripping a steel pistol down (ie, 1911 or Star) and hosing it out with a can of $1 carb cleaner and lubing up works well. I'm talking the frame when it gets dirty. Brake cleaner is even better.

Everyone has their own way.

Jason

[brayhaven]

For you guys using the Friendship mixture with peroxide. If you are using it in a ML, be prepared to pull your breechplug about once a year, and check the threads. It is a very good oxidizer, and likes to eat threads.

As a former chemist & many years a gunsmith, this is good advice. I tell my customers to never put hydrogen peroxide in any gun in any form. The supposed reason is foaming, but I'd bet it does nothing but initiate underdeposit corrosion.
Greg

[9.3X62AL]

Brayhaven/Waksupi--

How about the Juice minus the Hydrogen Peroxide? Any real advantage to bucket treatment? I don't really think cleaning BP guns is any more hassle than is a smokeless gun, just different and maybe a little bit messier. As long as the process repels the wife and daughters from my garage, I'm up for about anything that works well and causes no harm.

[j4570]

I wouldn't put peroxide down a muzzleloader either.

My dad taught me to to clean a muzzleloader with pure hot water and soap. works great. Then use about 1/2 can wd40 getting all the water out (not all at once). Then clean with Hoppes (or something similiar), and oil to store. Of course, it has to come out of the stock to do this.

But it does work!

I love BP shooting, I need to dig out the BP six shooter, it was soooo much fun.

[waksupi]

Brayhaven/Waksupi--

How about the Juice minus the Hydrogen Peroxide? Any real advantage to bucket treatment? I don't really think cleaning BP guns is any more hassle than is a smokeless gun, just different and maybe a little bit messier. As long as the process repels the wife and daughters from my garage, I'm up for about anything that works well and causes no harm.

]

Al, I see no problem using the other items. One friend likes tincture of green soap, and alcohol. In my range kit, I carry a bottle of water, with some detergent in it. Just look for one, where the word "surficants" is somewhere near the top of the list.

[deerslayer]

I have found that my wifes steam gun she uses for cleaning is about the best gun cleaner i can find especially for the muzzleloader just strip out the barrel and steam it and in about 4 seconds it is to hot to hold run a brush through it a few times and repeat steam and then a patch. The parts dry almost instantly and I use a little oil I do this every year after hunting season and all mine look new. I have also cleaned up extremely fouled barrels on used guns I have picked up cheap because the barrel was so fouled and they look new. No it won't take pits out but just about everything else.

[dominicfortune00]

When I used to shoot a flintlock ML, this is how I was taught to clean it.

Remove the barrel from the stock.

Remove the touch hole.

Get a five gallon bucket of the hottest water you could find.

Add some rubbing alcohol to the water.

Put the breach end of the barrel in the bucket of water, and with a tight fitting patch on the cleaning rod, pump the water through the bore until clean.

The barrel heated up pretty good, so couple of dry patches, the an oily one and I was done.

Also liked those Hoppes 'Tornado' brushes, the spiral stainless ones for lapping the bore.

[corvette8n]

I see there is also Collector Liquid, is this stuff any differant from regular CLP?

[sniper]

This is a little belated, but I use and like CLP. Specially for my .22s. I haven't had my Ruger autopistol apart for years. Say what you may, I tried many times, could NOT get the damn thing back together.

A friend who is a gunsmith took pity on me, and reassembled it. I now just squirt it out good with Gun Scrubber, or brake cleaner, do the bore and hit it good with CLP, and that's all.

It kept my guns rust free for about 2 years when they were stored in the basement of my brother-in-law's house, about 300 miles away, and not accessible for regular maintenance.

It doesn't take jacket fouling out worth a hoot, tho. For that , I use Wipe-Out.

[edlmann]

The M16 certainly had problems when first introduced, but alot of the problems where caused by the govt. Like to get it issued as fast as possible. The thing there was the troops where trained how to use it of course, but not how to maintain and clean it. Like I said before at first it wasn't issued with a cleaning book or tools. The govt told the soldiers it was a new wonder weapon, didn't need cleaned as often as previous weapons. Well they found out they were wrong, very wrong. So what do they go and do? They come out with CLP.

Naah. First there was LSA; CLP is a generation or two later.

[Four Fingers of Death]

Oops! Forget the chair tips. They're not elastic and undersized like the crutch tips. They're made of some sort of fairly hard plastic or rubber and won't seal. Stick with the crutch tips. Back to Wal-Mart I go.

Maybe if the chair tip was the closest fit to the Bbl available, an automotive hose clamp might make it seal. Just a thought, you wouldn't bother unless nothing else was available to fit.

I sort of remember reading somewhere that Break Free/CLP had the ability to penetrate skin as some mag wheel cleaners were able to do. Is this an old wive's (read old gossipy shooters) tale?

Four Fingers.

[nicholst55]

Maybe if the chair tip was the closest fit to the Bbl available, an automotive hose clamp might make it seal. Just a thought, you wouldn't bother unless nothing else was available to fit.

I sort of remember reading somewhere that Break Free/CLP had the ability to penetrate skin as some mag wheel cleaners were able to do. Is this an old wive's (read old gossipy shooters) tale?

Four Fingers.

I've never heard that one, and I've been using the stuff since it first came out in the late 70s. It does cause a rash on a lot of people, but the Army doesn't even insist on soldiers wearing gloves when using it. As anal as they have become about safety in recent years, that's saying a lot.

You can find the MSDS online if you're concerned.

FWIW, I do wear nitrile gloves when cleaning my guns, regardless of what I'm using. I also wear safety glasses, and recommend the same for everyone.

[Marlin Hunter]

sundog,

..... The M16 certainly had problems when first introduced, but alot of the problems where caused by the govt. Like to get it issued as fast as possible. The thing there was the troops where trained how to use it of course, but not how to maintain and clean it. Like I said before at first it wasn't issued with a cleaning book or tools. The govt told the soldiers it was a new wonder weapon, didn't need cleaned as often as previous weapons. Well they found out they were wrong, very wrong. So what do they go and do? They come out with CLP. ........

Joe

(I know I'm responding to a 4 year old post.)


My understanding about the M-16 problem is that it was caused by calcium in the gun powder. The original method to make powder was to wash off the acid in water. It had to be done several times and was costly and time consuming. Some bright person got the idea to put calcium in the powder instead of washing it in water. The calcium built up in the gas tube and carrier piston. I think I read that in either Guns and Ammo, soldier of Fortune, or American Rifleman.

[Shiloh]

I have a couple of four oz. bottles of CLP. It is good stuff. I hardly use it though. I find that I use Ed's red almost exclusively. The exception is Sweets 7.62, which is used for copper fouling. For the price of a couple of bottles of Breakfree CLP, one can make a gallon of Ed's Red.

Shiloh

[DLCTEX]

I bought some to send to the troops in Afganistan, then found out you can't ship aresol cans, so I'm using it myself.

[dromia]

I use the ammonia straight, without pre-bluing it with copper wire. It turns blue nicely all by itself as it takes the copper out of your bore. Great stuff, and as an added benefit the water in it dissolves corrosive primer residue.

That's what I use patch about with Ed's Red, just don't use any brass or bronze jags or bristle brushes they will get eaten away.

Also as Ed Harris says I've found a good gun oil to be 50/50 paraffin and ATF.

Youngs 303 mixed with water to make Aquoil is good for BP and corrosive primer residue.

I still have a couple of pints of CLP lying around from a half gallon purchase years ago. Its OK stuff that I would use happily but its not worth the price when equal and better performance can be had for a lot less spandoolacs.

[TCLouis]

I have about a gallon and a half I have had for years.
Ed's Red has done everything I need for smokeless with boolit /bullet and water with dish washing detergent takes care of all thing BP based.

[dominicfortune00]

A friend of mine says that the best gun oil he used is Singer Sewing Machine Oil.

[45-70 Plinker]

As a gunsmith I will not use any oil that has Teflon, or any 'plastic' additive in it, Breakfree, Remoil etc., to plate and/or pack up in the sear and other parts. The Teflon gets into the metal and can ruin with your stones which is why engine rebuilders won't take your block if you have used STP or similar stuff with Teflon type additives.
I have that Kroil will clean just about anything out of a barrel. On the outside the best thing I have found is SlipIt. Spray some on a patch and wipe things down. You do not have to worry about your stocks as it was made as a wood lubricant. It will keep a tablesaw rust free for about three months in the garage.