what to do about pitting

[gwozdz]

Prior to any of the above methods, I have had good luck with tapping the rusted ares with the edge of a small brass hammer. This is a quick way to remove the scale rust first, then apply the above.

[oldred]

Is Rust Mort still available? Used it quite frequently on car projects, they carried it at a buddy's PPG paint dealership. Haven't seen it in years.

Bren R.

I buy it at O'rielly auto parts here but It's available anyplace other SEM brand products are sold. I did a quick check on the 'net and it brought up a long list of distributors in Canada as well as the US so it's still available.

[KCSO]

I use an acid bath and then for deep pits tig them and dress them down to surface this is a LOT of work but it's the best way for true restoration.

[ironhead7544]

Flitz will remove the rust. Also will protect against more damage. Dont put it on any case color as it will remove some of them.

[oldred]

Flitz will remove the rust. Also will protect against more damage. Dont put it on any case color as it will remove some of them.

Thanks for mentioning that! When I said that Phosphoric acid would almost instantly remove bluing I failed to mention that it will also instantly remove the colors of CC hardening!

[o6Patient]

-check vote for the phosphoric acid, it will reform the rust to help keep it from coming back,
especially if you were considering filling the pits.

[Tokarev]

FWIW google POR 15 - the makers of paint that sticks to rust. They sell 'rust converter' with their kits and AFAIK that is zinc phosphate, i.e. essentially a parkerizing solution. Might work, test on a useless chunk of rusty steel of course.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Mike: I was going to suggest that you bead blast the area. That will remove the rust for sure, and not leave anything behind.

Since you already found out about Ospho and applied it that should do the trick as far as stopping any further rust.

However you could still bead blast it with the ospho on there and it would remove that too. Then you'd be starting from scratch.

I found some wonder goo at the last gun show, and I'm sure many know about it. it is called "Frog Lube."

The distributor has an old army 1911 soaking in a bucket of water on her display. She shakes the water out and puts the gun in a box until the next show when it goes back into the bucket of water.

IT was treated with the Frog Lube once a couple of years ago and still is rust free. The gun is so slick it feels like it has had 100,000 rounds thru it.

Whatever you do, it has to be soaked into the pores of the metal in order to work.

With the Frog Lube you smear the stuff on the parts and then heat them with a hair dryer until the stuff flows. the let it cool and wipe off the excess.

It is slick as Owl Ship. I did my Glock 21 and it was night and day difference. Also nothing sticks to it so cleaning the gun is much faster.

You might look it up.

Randy

[Kaiser Mike]

I am wanting to remove the parkerization from my RIA 1911 so I can rust blue it. Will ospho or the phosphoric acid/naval jelly remove the finish?
Thanks!

[Greg S]

If it was previously cleaned and returned several times, you may have salts in the pitts and pores of the steel that solvents aren't disolving and removing. If the corrosion returns in the next few months, degrease, hot water and dawn with a tooth brush several times so the water can disolve the salt crystals, hot water rinse, dry, hair dryer heating to expell any water in pores and pits and re-oil with a moisture displacing oil several times over a week. If it persists, contimplate bead blast and coating to seal off oxygen. Nail polish would suffice in pitts.

I got caught in a downpour out hunting with a 870 express and had a problem. I would wipe it down weakly and it would re-appear while station in the humid south. Joaned it to a friend who had some yotes harassing her cattle and loned to to her with a 1/2 case of 00. Returned after 6 weeks and it was ugly. Best thing I did was took it to work degreased and threw it in the sand blast cabinet and brought it home and simmered it in a parkerizing soup in a 32" stainless planter box on the stove top. I think I've oiled that shotgun less than a half dozen times in the past 20 years.

[GregLaROCHE]

Rust pitting fears phosphoric acid like nothing else, except sand blasting. I’ve used it for over forty years on all sorts of projects.

[waksupi]

for rusting, wash down with baking soda and water. Then, heat the metal, then pour boiling water over the area, or steam the barrel to turn the rust into blue. It should actually be kept up to heat for 20-25 minutes, but even a dose of the boiling water shoiuld kill it. Coat it heavily with Johnson paste wax, and put it back in the stock. If blueing chemicals are still present from the original blueing, Coke or Mt. Dew will neutralize it.