Hi,
What powder measure do you use for say 3.1 grains or a very small charge of titegroup?
David
Hi,
What powder measure do you use for say 3.1 grains or a very small charge of titegroup?
David
Redding BR-3 with the pistol chamber installed. Zero leakage and spot on measurement. Got rid of the RCBS Lil' Dandy when I got the pistol chamber.
The smaller size (pistol) insert for standard Hornady powder measure.
Does well for me.
To keep the rotor from acting 'sticky' I pull and and wax it with the same wax I use on the truck.
Last edited by Winger Ed.; 09-09-2025 at 03:58 PM.
Gone are the days of wooden ships and Iron men.
I doubt we shall see their likes again.
Spoken by a US Coast Guard station commander.
Upper East Coast. Circa 1920.
I use small charges of Titegroup and Bullseye a lot in any of the Hornady measures I have with the small rotor and zero leakage. I don’t load anything under 2.7 grains but they will throw whatever I set them at.
Redding BR-3 for me also. I’ve had a bunch of measures over the years and this one “leaks” the least. Very, very repeatable also which is a big plus.
The old Lyman 55 with the three chambers work well on small charges. If you’re not loading en masse a smaller dipper and trickle up to desired charge. I’m loading 5.0 grs of Trueblue for an H&R SS 5.7x28 and that’s what I’m doing.
“A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition”
– Rudyard Kipling
I've been using the Lyman 55 as well. Drops accurate consistent 3.2 grains of HP-38. Also using it for my lighter CFE-Pistol and BE-86 loads.
If a 41 won't stop it, I wouldn't bet my life on a 44.
No problems with a Dillon powder measure and the small bar installed.
I use the plastic Lee one and their Deluxe metal one. The plastic doesn't play well with 11fs as it's very small and leaks out/binds up the action. Flakes like Titegroup or larger ball powders work fine. The Deluxe has better tolerances and feel and 11fs won't leak through or bind the rotor, and accuracy is the same.
The key to consistent charges is that you ABSOLUTELY need a powder baffle, as without you'll get heavier charges when the container is full and lighter when empty. With a baffle it acts consistently like a mostly empty container and I'm within .1gn on 10gn charges using ball powder
I appreciate all the replys and I seem to have the right stuff. I have a Redding 3br but with titegroug it gets some trapped around the drum, makes the cycle hard on some throws. Thanks for the help.
David
this is where a vintage belding and mull can really shine
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |