Aside from lube bullets until it's empty.
What is a good way to remove the existing lube from my Lyman 450.
It is Rcbs green colored lube if that matters
I want to use different lube
Aside from lube bullets until it's empty.
What is a good way to remove the existing lube from my Lyman 450.
It is Rcbs green colored lube if that matters
I want to use different lube
Last edited by hylander; 04-28-2024 at 05:13 PM.
Failure is not an Option
I would disassemble it put in a big pot of water and boil it. cover completely in water by 3-6" then let cool the lube will boil out and float to the top then when cool will be a disc of lube you can lift out. Have plenty of water as you will lose some to boiling it.
When done lightly oil it and re lube it where needed as the boiling will remove all lube
I bought one with hard lube and removed the screws and turned upside down in a large pan and stuck a solder iron in the cylinder and walked off for a few hours. Remove the rubber parts. The above works also. You could also heat it up with the screws removed and turn the rachet until it bottoms out to remove 90% or so. Just remove the sizing die.
Thank you for the suggestion.
However, I took it apart, turned it upside down and hit it with my heat gun. All out.
Now to fill it with a fresh batch of Ben's Red I just made.
Note to self:
Don't touch hot steel.
I now have a blister on my finger and it is not fun. Good thing it's not my trigger finger, I have cast silhouette match tomorrow.
Failure is not an Option
Heat gun and gloves. Oooops, should have read all the posts. Great minds think alike.
The few Times I've ever had to 'drain' my RCBS sizer, I leave it mounted on the bench.
I pull the sizing die & plunger out, put a trash can under it, and wave a propane torch near it.
When the lube gets warm and starts to flow, it drains itself.
While it's still a little too hot to touch, wipe it off & out with paper towels.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
I take the linkage, handle and bolts off. Remove the sizing die and the plunger.
I then put it in the oven on about 200 F for 20 minutes. Prop one end up so it all runs out.
Wipe it off, let it cool and put it back together...
I cleaned out a Lyman 45 several years ago that I bought at an estate sale. I put it in a coffee can of water on the Coleman stove and it didn't have to reach boiling. The lube, which appeared to be the old fashioned Lyman black lube, started rising out of it well before boiling. Since it was suitable for my uses, I recovered the lube and put it in my lubesizer.
Just did this recently for my LAM 2 due to bad o-ring and missing retainer at bottom of plunger shaft - heat gun over an empty cardboard box. Rebuild went smoothly thanks to parts at no charge from RCBS customer service.
Suspend it upside down from the "arch" of a stepladder then turn one of those kerosene torpedo heaters lose on it. I put an old cardboard box under it to catch melt.
I did it by accident once by leaving my lube heater plugged in overnight. It doesn't take a huge amount of heat to get the lube to melt and run out. Post #10 is the same method I use now, just put it on an old cookie sheet to contain the lube.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |