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Thread: Building new bench top, ideas?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    ghh3rd's Avatar
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    What do you find the optimum counter height to be?
    Plata o plomo?
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghh3rd View Post
    What do you find the optimum counter height to be?
    It all depends on how a guy likes to load and what kind of press you use.
    If you want to stand or sit , if I am using a single stage press I might prefer to use it higher in relation to my shoulders because I don’t need to see in the case on the press like I would with a press that has the powder measure mounted on it where I want to easily see the charge in each case. For general work aerea your kitchen counters are for standing (you can use a bar stool)
    Your dinette work surface is chair height this height needs more foot knee room The height is what is comfortable to you operating your equipment if you use loading blocks and thy are to high they are uncomfortable for a lot of repetion. will you use the bench for other than reloading. You can also make or buy bench mount stands to raise equipment higher than bench top mount. Several things to consider. Any hight will be a compromise at times
    Last edited by onelight; 03-31-2019 at 12:06 AM.

  3. #23
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    If you want to get the full advantage of the rigidity/reinforcement of those steel plates- put them under the table.

    You'll put more force on pulling the handle down, not nearly as much pushing it up.
    The plate will act like a giant washer to absorb and spread out the forces of trying to pull the press off the table.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghh3rd View Post
    What do you find the optimum counter height to be?
    Because of my disability and that I work while sitting my bench height is at 26". I sit in an adjustable computer chair to where my feet are flat on the floor and everything is set so that it is within arms reach w/o having to raise out of the chair and I can still see inside each charged case. Anyways that is what I found works for me.

    With the other press located on top of that base cabinet I needed a raised bar stool to sit and it puts too much pressure on my legs after a short time.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
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    I always sit when I reload or work at my bench, I’m 6’4. My bench is 33 in tall and my chair’s seat is 23in. A shorter guy could probably stand and use my bench. My barn workshop benches and tables are 40 in high as I stand for everything out there. I’ve got one of those tall drill presses and had to add 6 inch legs to a steel base plate to get it tall enough. At 67 it’s hard on my back to be stooped over. Make the bench fit the way that you work. When I cast, pc, mill, drill, cut etc in my barn I stand to do the work. Makes it easier to see what I’m doing.
    Last edited by Baltimoreed; 03-31-2019 at 09:08 AM.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmw1954 View Post
    Thanks folks, Was just talking with a friend about routing this just as a few of you have suggested and that just may be the way to go if I can find a router. If so I will use 3/4"X2 laminated with a pcs of 1/8" or 1/4" Masonite as a smooth cover. Then thinking 7 screws around the perimeter of the plate using flat head socket head screws..

    Thank you all for helping me think this thru!!
    Flat head machine screws with T-nuts underneath. If you can find the screws that use a hex wrench you can really tighten it up.

  7. #27
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    When I started reloading in 1972 bought from a used furniture store. When I got it I must have looked at 50 desks, all had the pull out typewriter stand. The one I got was occupied by a young girl watching the store for her mom, but she sold it to me for $25. When I came back later to pick it up her mom was not happy, seems she wanted to keep it but honored the bargain. Top was solid, 38X60, with three shallow drawers on left and a shallow drawer and file drawer on right and a center drawer. Only negative was it was painted orange. Mounted my old Lyman Spartan on the right side, it blocked the shallow drawer but since I used it to store stuff I seldom used it was no biggie. Did put a piece of high density plywood between the press and the top, all anchored with 3/8 nuts and bolts. A few years later when I started casting found the hole spacing for the Spartan matched the Lyman 450 so just swapped when needed. The writing board on the left was perfect to clamp my Lyman 55 measure to, and could be slid back in when the measure was removed. Used it like that years and in the interval my wife decided the orange had to go so while I was at work she stripped it. Wood looks like mahogany and I still have it in my reloading room, but don't load on it anymore. When I retired in WI I slowly added more work space, mainly two small maple desks that were being discarded at a place where I worked. These were student desk, light weight, warped drawers and tops but I was able to put them into usable shape and I used one for the 450 and the other for my son'd Lee Challenger.

    About ten years ago my son went to work for a company that housed kids that family services had removed from their homes. The building had been office space and the desks were still there. The owner told the employees to clean it out so it could be remodeled into bedrooms and my son called and asked it I wanted any of the desks. Got two, one 30X60 the other 30X84. Tops were 1 1/4 particle board with formica tops. Got four base cabinets with two shallow drawers over a file drawer. These were obviously computer desks as there were two holes along the long edged for computer cables. I used the longer one to mount an RCBS RC on the right hand side just left of the right pedestal and mounted my Lyman T-mag on the left edge. The T mag id not bolted to the top, instead is bolted to a 2X8 which is C-clamped to the top. I left enough overhang so that there is leg room for me to sit. The old maple desks went to feed the outdoor wood furnace (hey, wood is wood).

    Along with some wardrobes picked up junking while in Germany I had plenty of working room and storage space. When I moved to KY last year it all came with me and just fits my reloading room with a little bit of space to spare.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master

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    My current bench top is 2X10's bolted to a steel frame. I have an additional 2X10 screwed under the top, running front to back, under each press. Solid enough to park on and zero flex at the presses.

    If I ever redo it it will be covered with Formica on top.

    I've seen several really workable ideas. Multable layers of plywood glued and screwed. Solid core doors cut to fit. Stainless elevator doors. Even steel tables and tops.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    I have a 3/4" plywood top on mine, but have been thinking about a new top of two 3/4" plywood layers glued together and screwed form underneath. After curing, I will remove the screws. May put a piece of masonite on top for a smooth surface. The old plywood is a little too rough for my taste, and is a little harder to sweep up spilled powder, etc. Legs are a set of commercially bought steel legs. Have also been considering bolting the back to the studs in the wall from underneath. Just haven't brought myself to buy two sheets of plywood as my bench is 5' by 32" I also need to raise it up about 2" as my Dillon handle just touches my leg sitting in an elevated office chair. (chair won't go any lower. It is much higher than my desk chair) Bench is now at 29" and will make it 31 or 32"

  10. #30
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Yes sir folks, these benches can become as personal as the guns we shoot or the food we enjoy the most. It's all about what fits us and out personalities. One of the guys I regularly chat with on another forum has an old metal standup tool cabinet that he converted into a work space. Built a small benchtop inside of it and when not in use he can close it up and lock it. Others I have seen have whole rooms with walls lined with very nice base cabinets with counter tops that look nicer than some kitchens I've seen.

    I really like the one I have and it fits what I do and how I do it, it just needs a slight modification to make it perfect.

  11. #31
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    For the plywood top I went thru the pile until we came up with the cleanest piece without knotholes or splits, we did stay far away from the cabinet grade stuff. I did a real good sanding in the garage and a final sanding once all the edge work was put in place. Several coats of polyurethane finished it off so cleanup is a snap and doesn’t seem to be bothered by gun cleaning solvents. In the future if I tear it up too much I may go the laminate route.

  12. #32
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    I once built a loading bench with RR ties 2 for the top and two more cut into 3 30 in pieces stacked perpendicular under each end and then boxed with plywood. I was extremely solid but when I moved I couldn't take it with me.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    So it begins, Got out to te garage and sorted thru my stash and found a nice pc. of 3/4" ply that is 96"X 25" that was left over from a boat project. So today I hope to get it cut, sanded and glued and then I will start disassembly of the bench.

    Will take pictures as I go.

  14. #34
    Boolit Bub
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    Here is a picture of my bench made with the Butcher Block I mentioned above. That bench now has another Dillon 1050 on it over against the right side wall. That one has a Mark 7 autodrive. My wife also got me a proper stool so I basically lean on the stool when loading.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by cat-mechanic View Post
    Here is a picture of my bench made with the Butcher Block I mentioned above. That bench now has another Dillon 1050 on it over against the right side wall. That one has a Mark 7 autodrive. My wife also got me a proper stool so I basically lean on the stool when loading

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That is a class act very nice!

  16. #36
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    cat, very nice indeed. Like the look but it is a bit more work intensive and costly than laminating ACX ply. Got it cut now I need to run out for sand paper as I'm all out. Also have a couple 2X2 that I'm going to use as stringers also and mocking this up I just may have to take that plate and cut it in half from 16.5"X10 into 10"X8.25". I'm thinking that may be more than enough.

  17. #37
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmw1954 View Post
    cat, very nice indeed. Like the look but it is a bit more work intensive and costly than laminating ACX ply. Got it cut now I need to run out for sand paper as I'm all out. Also have a couple 2X2 that I'm going to use as stringers also and mocking this up I just may have to take that plate and cut it in half from 16.5"X10 into 10"X8.25". I'm thinking that may be more than enough.
    Thanks, and yes I understand about the work and cost. I bought the butcher block countertop. then cut the length so it would fit right, then spend several hours sanding and coated 3 coats of polyurethane on it. It's been a beautiful workbench since. It is also what I had always wanted. All total with the 2 workbenches and the top, I have about $600 in it.

    Your ACX should build a decent bench as well. and treated right, will last a long time as well.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmw1954 View Post
    cat, very nice indeed. Like the look but it is a bit more work intensive and costly than laminating ACX ply. Got it cut now I need to run out for sand paper as I'm all out. Also have a couple 2X2 that I'm going to use as stringers also and mocking this up I just may have to take that plate and cut it in half from 16.5"X10 into 10"X8.25". I'm thinking that may be more than enough.
    If you cut it in half you could put it on top and bottom.

  19. #39
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    My advice is build the biggest one you can cram into the space. I kept building a little bigger and then run out of room and build another. I finally ended up with a little over 7 1/2 feet and you guessed it ain't big enough. So i also have a 4 foot casting table in garage and a 4ft bench for working on guns. Still could use more room.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Thanks RED BEAR, not rebuilding the whole bench as I am perfectly happy with it. I'm just replacing the benchtop and modifying it by adding the steel plate to facilitate easy removal of the presses when I swap them out.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check