I do it just the same as Bigted.
Moose0011, if you have a regular GG mold of .458", just size those boolits down to .451" or so, patch them, and then resize to .458" or whatever size your chamber allows.
As mentioned, after the first sizing, you may want to clean the boolits so the patch doesn't stick too much. On smooth boolits, this is easy, GG boolits may need to be sloshed around in boiling water or something to really clean them.
You will have to do some experimenting as to what lubes work and what papers work and what sizing process works for you. With the right paper and starting boolit size, you may not need to size the patched boolit at all. IMO, this is much of the fun of paper patching!
I could send some different boolits to you this summer but I am moving soon so it may be a while before I get my bench set up again.
I refered to the way I replyed to your post ... it wound up mixed in with your post instead of an add on with your post as a quote.
Grease Groove
The point is, that you don't need a dedicated paper patch mold, meaning a smooth sided boolit.
Just about any mold which produces a boolit with more or less parallel sides will do.
I am just moving about a mile away from where I am. I will see what I have cast up already and let you know.
I know what you mean.
On another forum, lots of mention of RUM chamberings. Took me forever to realize they were referring to Remington Ultra Mags. Not my cup of tea so I didn't dig too deep figuring it out then it just dawned on me...
I think I have a .458" sizer so maybe I can patch a few and size them for you - if I can squeeze the time in.
May be better for you to size, patch and size again yourself so you can reproduce the results if they work well for you. Regarding the GG boolits, when they are pushed through a Lee sizer, the grooves are narrowed a bit so when they are patched, they behave quite like a smooth boolit. If using paper on the heavier side, sometimes it is hard to tell if they are smooth or grooved just by looking.
I am new to this PP thing too. I started by reading every thing i could and then i just started trying to patch a boolit i all ready had. I didn't size it i just wrapped them for practice and found it is not that hard. Then i got a push through in .301 from Lee and found some cotton 16lb bond and had at it. For lube i used JJ past wax and then through a .310 die. What little i have tried nothing bad has happened. I think this is one of those thing that one can over think till you give it a try. I did much of what has been posted so as not to try and reinvent the wheel so to say. I don't hunt any thing with them so I cast them on the hard side.
I wrapped the bullet with the onion skin paper, lubricate with Vaseline taxied to the bullet Lube Pad and resizing a calibrator manual to homogenize the paper and lubricant.
Weapons are like money ... no one ever has enough
best thing I can recommend is to just wrap a few and send em. work from there. it is a bunch easier then explaining. just need a starting place. my first patchers were made with grease groove boolits I sized down with a Lee pushthru and then wrapped up to size with onion paper purchased from BACO. then I worked from there.
now I have many slick molds of flat base and hollow base in 2 different diameters for my .380's and .460's. I have even patched a lite revolver boolit ...[what a pain]... and sent them at a very rapid pace in my 45-70 and 45-120 over various amounts of smokeless and black powder.
this is a fun and educating addiction that never seems to be done giving its lessons. just about the time you are thinking you have arrived ... some hapless soul suggests something else to try and away ya go again. WHAT FUN!!!
Thanks guys I appriciate the Help alot. I will have to check that onion paper out I have never heard of it..
That onion paper will burn your eyes.
Mr. Bill2
hi moose ,
im not an expert by far , but my castings are of the gascheck type , with greasegrooves.
for me this works very good , the patch nicely shrinks in the grease grooves , and the shank for the gascheck gives me a good base
for a paperdisc at the bulletbase , and lets me easily remove the tail of the patch , tearing that of when wet i mean , and with my finger i tap the litlle overhang around the base.
now for the original question , the final step for me is to put them through my lyman lubesizer , with a 50/50 mixture of beeswax / vaseline . it works great for me in the 6.5x55mm cartridge.
Gas checked bullets make it easier to twist the tails with tearing the paper.
45 AUTO! Because having to shoot someone twice is just silly!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |