It's amazing how fast you use up the wire. I've had a couple times I would run out and wait for an order before I could finish a project.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
I buy fine silver in 6"X6" sheets .012 thick and cut strips off with a pair of scissors. Only economical way I have found to do silver.
So how or what holds the wire in the groove that you cut into the wood ?
If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!
I have ground a assortment of smallish screwdrivers into stabbing tools. The tighter the corner the smaller the tool. The ribbon is + or - 1/16" or so and driven into the groove after the groove has been all stabbed in. Then with a wet sponge soak the area down with water and the wood swells up around the ribbon permanently. I wire and entire area before I wet the wood down. Believe it or not but silver is easier to put in than brass. Brass work hardens while you are cutting it off the sheet. I have to anneal it before I can even put it into the wood.
Thanks for the explanation , I find it amazing that just the swelling of the wood holds it .
If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Thank you that makes sense . I really don't have the artistic abilities to do the wire inlay Ive been a metal worker most of my life but I'm more of a straight line artist ! Lol , but it's good to have the knowledge . If I get bored maybe I'll try it on a piece of pine or scrap wood .
If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!
[QUOTE=RU shooter;5080332]Thank you that makes sense . I really don't have the artistic abilities to do the wire inlay Ive been a metal worker most of my life but I'm more of a straight line artist ! Lol , but it's good to have the knowledge . If I get bored maybe I'll try it on a piece of pine or scrap wood .[/QUO
Straight lines are your enemy in scroll work, regardless of if it is wire inlay or engraving. If there is a flat spot in your curve, and the design doesn't flow, start over! When I was being taught engraving, I did drawings of designs for a month before I was allowed to cut metal.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |