perhaps a repeated question but... bullet lube.

[Griffin]

hi there,
i have gotten a big piece of bees wax from a relative which has bees. its free from now on...
and i have earlier used tamarack lube which is a mix 50/50 bees wax and alox. got that one from TrapperP on this forum
is there anything you know of that i is a good substitute for alox, easier to get in sweden. i have velocities of around 1800-2100 fps and tamarack has worked fine.
Karl

[Maven]

Karl,

Go to Lar45's LS Stuff (bottom left on your screen) and then to his White label Lube. Scroll down until you find Liquid Xlox, which is a substitute for Alox:

White Label Lube co.
Offering Premium Cast bullet lubes without the premium price.

e-mail questions or to order at $1.90 per stick.
Updated: 05-20-2009

We are experiencing a large volume of orders. Shipping time can be one to two weeks. Orders are being sent out everyday and are filled in the order they are received.

Price Change: The cost for many of our supplies has gone up since last year. The new prices for our products reflect that change. We are trying to keep the price as reasonable as possible, but refuse to use inferior ingredients.

We have a shortage of materials used for our BPCR Supreme lube.
Currently we are out of BPCR Supreme Until we find another source.

NOTE: Liquid-Xlox-Lube-

03-17-2009: All back orders of Liquid Xlox have been shipped. We have a large supply in stock and are ready for any size order.

Large orders may take a couple of days, please contact us for shipping times.
32 oz bottle for $10.50, 8 oz bottle for $4.00 We also have a dispenser pump for the 8 oz bottle.
Liquid Xlox Lube Click link for details.

[Griffin]

is it ok to mix in the liq. alox with the wax and then just keep on rockin´?
/karl

[NuJudge]

What I've read here has been that Lee Liquid Alox will not make a good lube when mixed with Beeswax.

The material that is mixed with Beeswax to make the (US) NRA formula, is 50% Alox 2138F. Alox Corporation was acquired by Lubrizol, and 2138F is actually no longer made, the successor material is Alox 350. Alox 350 only differs from 2138F in that a small amount of a wax is added to the 350 to turn it into 2138F. Alox 350 has a number of uses, a corrosion resistant coating and a high pressure lubricant. Here in the US, snow and ice on roads is frequently dealt with by snow plowing and then spreading salt to melt the ice. The salt melts snow, but also accelerates rust on cars, and there are businesses that "undercoat" cars with 350 to prevent rust. If you can find such a business in Sweden, if the product they use is from Lubrizol, you should have a source of 350.

Can I suggest you try a lube that you can get the ingredients for in Sweden? I'm sure you can get Lithium grease there, and I've heard nothing but good comments about it mixed with Beeswax. Search for "Lithibee" lube here. Be careful about fires when making it.

CDD

[Casting Timmy]

A non alox substitute would be white lithium grease, shoudl be easy ot find. Some people also like to use a moly grease instead of the white lithium.

[Griffin]

i got a tube of great lithium grease, i´ll try that.

[geargnasher]

i got a tube of great lithium grease, i´ll try that.

You'll be pleased, just be patient getting the grease to melt into the wax. Be careful, it takes a lot of heat and there is danger of the beeswax bursting into flames, keep a well-fitting lid handy for the pot you use to melt it all in so you can snuff it if it starts burning. Beeswax "poofs" at a little over 300 degrees farenheit.

For even bettter performance and possibly an accuracy edge, try Felix World Famous Lube per the recipe in the sticky. Beeswax you have, Castor oil is sold as a laxative in drugstores, Johnson's baby oil and Ivory soap are grocery store items, and Lanolin can be had as a purified paste "nipple cream" for nursing mothers. Most pharmacies also carry anhydrous lanolin for compounding tinctures.

Gear

[Recluse]

What I've read here has been that Lee Liquid Alox will not make a good lube when mixed with Beeswax.

If it's mixed solely with beeswax only, I'd bet it wouldn't be too great.

However, I finally scratched an itch five or six weeks or so ago, and melted some beeswax, then proceeded to add LLA and JPW (cooked off solvents first) to it, then a table spoon of stearate.

It's a hard lube that requires a little heat in a cold environment, unlike the NRA formula mix, but it flows and sticks well. I was experimenting for another member here who is wanting to pain lube (no, not a typo--I refer to pan lubing as pain lubing ) and was wondering about adding beeswax to the 45/45/10 mix in the sticky.

So I experimented and added ingredients and adjusted proportions until the mix came out right, poured it in my PVC moulds, and then put a fourth of a stick in my lubesizer, did up some .45's (200SWC) and .38's (148WC, 105SWC), loaded them up, and went shooting.

Wow. Either my shootin' was dead on that day or that lube was doing great things for me and my guns. So, I lubed and loaded some more a couple of weeks later and went shooting--.45ACP and .38 Special.

Same results, plus an absolutely clean barrel in the .45 after 100 rounds (and of Bullseye, nonetheless), and a clean barrel in the S&W 686 after 150 rounds. Two dry patches in the 686 was all it took. Accuracy was dead-on, and I even broke my own rules and shot some off of a rest just to compare.

So, by itself, LLA and beeswax probably isn't so great, but add a little JPW and some stearate and have fun!

[Griffin]

i mixed a lithium grease with bees wax last week and smoked out the neibours in the process....
the wax got a brownish color and i added the usual carnuba wax too. the lube doesnt smell that great but has the right hardness and also very good lubing quality when tested between fingers. i will shoot it when i get well again and report back.
/Karl

[Edubya]

If it's mixed solely with beeswax only, I'd bet it wouldn't be too great.

However, I finally scratched an itch five or six weeks or so ago, and melted some beeswax, then proceeded to add LLA and JPW (cooked off solvents first) to it, then a table spoon of stearate.

It's a hard lube that requires a little heat in a cold environment, unlike the NRA formula mix, but it flows and sticks well. I was experimenting for another member here who is wanting to pain lube (no, not a typo--I refer to pan lubing as pain lubing ) and was wondering about adding beeswax to the 45/45/10 mix in the sticky.

So I experimented and added ingredients and adjusted proportions until the mix came out right, poured it in my PVC moulds, and then put a fourth of a stick in my lubesizer, did up some .45's (200SWC) and .38's (148WC, 105SWC), loaded them up, and went shooting.

Wow. Either my shootin' was dead on that day or that lube was doing great things for me and my guns. So, I lubed and loaded some more a couple of weeks later and went shooting--.45ACP and .38 Special.

Same results, plus an absolutely clean barrel in the .45 after 100 rounds (and of Bullseye, nonetheless), and a clean barrel in the S&W 686 after 150 rounds. Two dry patches in the 686 was all it took. Accuracy was dead-on, and I even broke my own rules and shot some off of a rest just to compare.

So, by itself, LLA and beeswax probably isn't so great, but add a little JPW and some stearate and have fun!

Recluse, I've enjoyed all of your posts but I'm asking for a little clarification and instruction on this particular one.
When you say "cooked off solvents", would you describe that action as heated in a sauce pan at say 200* until it quits smoking?
"a table spoon of stearate", Is that shaved Ivory soap?
I assume that you measured all of these ingredients prior to mixing to record your percentages.
Considering your posted test rounds were from the .38 and .45 I also am assuming that you have not taken this to more than 1K velocity.
Thanks,
EW

[mdi]

Isn't the classic "NRA" lube Beeswax and Alox? A very good lube. Another is "50/50", mfg. by Lar's, it's Beeswax/Alox. I've read and experienced a lube of 50% Beeswax and 50% Alox is a pretty good lube and has worked well in all my in all my handguns.

[runfiverun]

mdi you are correct.

when you heat up the jpw it will cook out the solvents that are in it,
jpw is a mix of carnuba 5ish percent, parrafin 5-10 percent and the rest is a carrier to keep it soft.
when you heat it up the solvents will steam off and you don't wanna breathe them or get them in your eyes.
recluse could have either used dried shaved/ground ivory soap or found sodium stearate.
sometimes you can get it at the drug store.
stearates are pretty good lubricants white lithium is a stearate also.

[Recluse]

Recluse, I've enjoyed all of your posts but I'm asking for a little clarification and instruction on this particular one.
When you say "cooked off solvents", would you describe that action as heated in a sauce pan at say 200* until it quits smoking?
"a table spoon of stearate", Is that shaved Ivory soap?
I assume that you measured all of these ingredients prior to mixing to record your percentages.
Considering your posted test rounds were from the .38 and .45 I also am assuming that you have not taken this to more than 1K velocity.
Thanks,
EW

Yep, when I melt the JPW, I let it "cook" for a while until most of the solvents have "cooked out." It will still smoke, and yep, it's not an exact process. But typically around fifteen minutes on the griddle in my El Cheapo pot from the Dollar Store does what I want it to do. I usually set the griddle temp to around 350 for the JPW and stir frequently/constantly.

Stearate? Shaved Ivory soap works just as well, and yes, I actually DO measure it out into a tablespoon, slightly heaping.

First boolits I lubed with this were .38 WC and .45 200SWC. Next trial, I loaded the same, plus some of my .38+P 158SWC. I'm in the process right now of lubing some boolits for 30-30, 30-06 and .223.

Will let you know how that goes.

[dromia]

Griffin

Lars at White Label lubes sells Xlox (Alox) 350 for making your own 50/50.

Lars sells the lube ready made as well and its as easy and cheap to just buy that.

If you shoot BP then keep your beeswax for that.

If you want to shop within the EEC then I have 350 Xlox and White label lubes I could supply you with, PM me if interested.

[Ajax]

Very interested in your findings Recluse.

Andy

[Iowa Fox]

For pure bees wax that smells like honey and has a few bee pieces in it I would use Bull plate and make speed green. Email the Bull Shop boys and they will help you. I have lubers set up with LBT Blue, Carnuba Red, Speed Green, and Choate mach. & tool. They all have their place.

[Marlin Hunter]

hi there,
i have gotten a big piece of bees wax from a relative which has bees. its free from now on...
and i have earlier used tamarack lube which is a mix 50/50 bees wax and alox. got that one from TrapperP on this forum
is there anything you know of that i is a good substitute for alox, easier to get in sweden. i have velocities of around 1800-2100 fps and tamarack has worked fine.
Karl

I think LPS-3 is the same think as liquid alox, but it is expensive. White Label Lube sells Alox cheaper.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/co...n_pg/lps3.html

[Ajax]

Recluse did you get a chance to try that lube in your rifles?

Andy

[Recluse]

Recluse did you get a chance to try that lube in your rifles?

Andy

Nope.

Thought I was going to on Saturday, but the eighteen-year-old had some drama going on and she just had to have me help her. She's looking at colleges. And Jeeps. And (new) cellphones.

And somehow, that was more important than me sneaking away to bust some caps?

Damn good thing I love her.

[geargnasher]

Recluse, I thought SWMBO was going to have me occupied all day, but I bribed here with the promise to make dinner this evening if she'd let me go to the public range all afternoon and enjoy the beautiful weather. Venison stew worked out exceedingly well, too. Not a bad deal!

Gear