Originally Posted by
Der Gebirgsjager
Just about every process that goes by the title "bluing" is a rusting process. The theory behind it is that if the surface of the metal is pre-rusted, then new rust will have a difficult time gaining a purchase on the metal. Blue rust is just more eye appealing than red rust. But you'll never get a muzzleloader fan to trade his browned barrel for a blue one. Beauty, as they say, is in the eye of the beholder.
Some processes are better at accomplishing this barrier than others, but the true fact of the matter is that bluing is just about the least effective rust preventative. The minute that a blued surface is scratched or rubbed bare that area is unprotected. Oils and waxes also create a barrier to moisture, which is steel's worst enemy. Most folks prefer bluing because of its great traditional appearance, but as a rust preventer it is a poor choice for some climates and humidity conditions.
Once rust has occurred, as seen near the muzzle of your rifle, it remains in the bottom of the pits and will continue to corrode. Those suggesting the use of wax as a protectant are offering good advice, as the wax will fill the pits and seal off the rust from the air and moisture.
Many of the new spray-on chemicals and finishes are much superior to bluing and provide much better wear. Some are even colored to resemble bluing. It is obvious that you have a fine old antique rifle there, and perhaps the idea of coating it with a more or less permanent spray finish is objectionable, but were it me that is probably what I would do. The rifle is well past the condition that collectors of pristine Wichesters look for, and now retains its basic value as a shooter and hunting rifle.
Just this morning, on another thread here in "Gunsmiting Tips & Tricks" I posted a photo of a Star Mod. B 9mm pistol that I refinished with Brownell's Aluma Hyde II 8 years ago. The pistol sees a lot of use as a carry gun, and the finish has held up well. When I first bought it over the internet it came from the Southern U.S. from a humid climate. The pistol was badly pitted beneath the grips, the grip screws, and upon detail stripping and cleaning it I found that the internal parts were rusty as well. I removed all the rust and gave everything a light coat of oil, but after perhaps a month I found the rust returning to everywhere it had been before. As it was carried in the waistband under a shirt and coat my body heat supplied the humidity. I tried it again, with the same result, and decided that I would have to completely refinish it. I filed and buffed all the pits out of the metal and then used the Aluma Hyde II, following the instructions very closely. The finish has held up well, and no more rust. I also replaced the grip screws with stainless.
I think, though, that I would probably chose a different product for a rifle. I own, shoot, and tinker with a lot of firearms, and other than the ones I am using at the time I keep many in storage. Some are protected with Trewax brand carnauba paste wax, and I've never had one rust. I use it sparingly, and rub it on metal and wood using my finger and a circular motion to fill pores in both wood and metal. But, if you're in and out of the house with the rifle in rain and snow applying wax alone won't be sufficient protection. You always need to wipe it down with a dry cloth when returning indoors, followed by a light coat of oil. Some oils will dissolve the wax and you'll have sort of a pasty mess, but that wipes off, and then after wiping you can apply a new coating of wax. This doesn't eliminate the necessity to periodically completely disassemble the rifle and clean and oil the internal parts.