My 30-06 Ruger had a 1-4X scope for years. 1X for inside shelter belts, 4X for fields and grassland outside shelter belts. That scope hgot moved to my 1894 Marlin 44M, so the '06 now has a 2-7X Burris (thicker cross hairs than the newer Luepolds).
My 30-06 Ruger had a 1-4X scope for years. 1X for inside shelter belts, 4X for fields and grassland outside shelter belts. That scope hgot moved to my 1894 Marlin 44M, so the '06 now has a 2-7X Burris (thicker cross hairs than the newer Luepolds).
Norske, what variety of scope is the 1-4?
I have acquired the same rifle as yours, I'm thinking it will be a cheap truck rifle for now.
This old LA 110E .243 still shoots better than me. I don't like the tiny tang safety button on it or my daughter's Steven's 200- they're hard to get a grip on for me.
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I can't disengage the safety with the gun mounted, but I'm generally in the habit of putting the safety off while bringing the gun to shoulder. One advantage is that it won't be knocked to the fire position from going though brush.
My trigger pull was a little inconsistent here and there. I wiped the dirt off with a rag and some remoil and it was better but not 100% consistent. Then I put a dab of grease on the sear/trigger engagement and what a difference it makes.
Been piddling with the trigger assembly. Trying to get the pull consistent. Grease worked a while, but then started being creepy. Then I tried completely dry and it was nice for a while and then back to being creepy. Course I tried gun oil. I am now trying silicone. I'll see if that holds. Any suggestions?
I took the assembly apart and it was dirty and rust colored oil throughout. Was a pain to get the sear spring back in. But... No more than anything else I reckon.
I have an older weaver K4, and thought I'd try it with same 2-pcs mounts as you. These long action 110's seem to work out better with older scopes, I used std medium rings and had plenty of adjustment. I also have a couple of other cheap 3x9 scopes, but they were not gona work unless I used a 1 pcs base. I wanted to keep the old school look, so I also put a older military sling on it also!
Thanks for the comment Izzyjoe.
I've been fiddling with scope bases trying to find an extended front base that don't extend past the receiver opening. The leupold bases extend just about an 1/8 inch past the receiver, but the Nikon a series rings are more narrow than normal and I could trim the base to be flush with the breech opening. The leupold bases are a touch tall for me though so I'm still looking for the perfect bases.
I'm happy for now with the old bushnell scope I have, but I'm thinking of getting an old leupold M8. As for slings, I have a cotton camo strap sling I made, and I have a brownells woven horsehair sling that momma bought me for my birthday.
Did you get the trigger worked out? I have not checked mine with a gauge, but I'd say it's around 4lbs. It is adjustable, but I'm not messing with it!
Everytime I see the pic of your rifle, I'm tempted to call Numrich for an original wood stock for mine!
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Izzyjoe, after cleaning it up good, the silicone oil I put on it is holding well. If it sets a few days undesturbed I can take it outside (for safety) and dry fire it without checking it, and the trigger is crisp and clean. Bout 5 pounds or so. I've dry fired it dozens if not over a hundred times since I lubed it with the silicone oil.
My trigger is adjustable, but i want maximum sear engagement. I did some research on it and a common gunsmith trick is using moly grease on the sear. It wears into the metal and really helps a trigger. Not having it I tried the silicone, but I am going to try the moly grease soon as I can get hold of some.
The trigger pull adjustment is easy and safe to adjust and is completely reversible with just turning in or out a screw.
Mine has the plain stock without checkering, its pretty thick in the forend so I'm gona thin it out some, and bed the action, and refinish it. Those cheap birch stocks can be a pain to redo without looking blotchy, I've never had much luck with them. I've seen some that looked great!
I refinished a 10/22 stock and used minwax Cabernet stain, then several coats of formbys tung oil. It turned out pretty good.
Bazoo, I'm changing out the medium Leupold extension rings & bases on my 110LA to Weaver. If you need them, holler.
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formbys tung oil Good stuff but I'm not sure it's just tong oil. Used it on antique furniture and real good results. The stuff they sell as tong oil is mostly acrylic now.
Whatever!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |