After thinking about using my home made Lanolin/Alchol case lube on my Snowblower.
Applied this for the first couple wet storms, seems to have a positive effect! Less clogging of snow/slush, blocking the Shute. My 2 cents.
After thinking about using my home made Lanolin/Alchol case lube on my Snowblower.
Applied this for the first couple wet storms, seems to have a positive effect! Less clogging of snow/slush, blocking the Shute. My 2 cents.
Pam spray cooking "lube" works well for this, as well as on snow shovels.
I've done the Pam on shovels and it works well, never thought to use on snow blower chute. Now if I could convince myself to stop using the straight 30 weight oil the manual calls for in my generator and snow blower so they would be easier to start....
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
I will have to look at a cost breakdown, between my lube mix an Pam spray! My case lube using lanolin is very cheap an goes a long ways.
ShooterAZ, do you have snow in Flagstaff?
RogerDat, are you using sinthetic oil? Seem to make a difference on cold starts for me.
I use the generic version of Pam on both the auger blades and shoot.
"Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut." - Ernest Hemingway
I use synthetic in stuff that gets used in the winter. Much easier to start compared with 10w30.
Pam is free unless dear wife catches me! And even then I would point out I'm doing her small shovel so she won't have sticking snow when she does the steps. She does them like 3 or 4 times a day when it snows. So no I don't make my wife do the shoveling. The snow blower chute would just be "bonus" while I was doing her shovel
I don't use synthetic oil, the snow blower is an old 8.5 horse briggs built for Montgomery Wards and the generator is a 10.5 horse briggs I got about 17 years ago so I could run furnace and well pump during power outages. And just in case that whole Y2K thing went sideways. I always kept 30 weight in both but I now see Briggs lists 10W-30 as acceptable but will burn more if above 80* F and Synthetic 5W-30 with Synthetic 15W-50 recommended for high temp usage.
I'm thinking an oil change is in my future because pull starting a 10.5 hp motor filled with 30 weight oil in the middle of winter for the generator is a PITA for sure. The snow blower it already had it's oil changed and that thing despite it's age starts on the first or second pull as long as I give the fuel time to get down to the carburetor. Only down side to it is tires won't stay inflated for long periods so it always has to be parked on blocks to get the tires off the ground.
Glad you mentioned that about the oil, have been meaning to check into if there was something besides straight 30 weight I could use because the only way that is easy to start is if I put a work light on it to warm the crankcase and if the power is out.... yeah that don't work so well.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
What's a snow blower?
Use a good synthetic 0w-30 or 5W-30 and don't look back. I seized up my snow blower about 8 yrs ago due to lack of oil(classic mechanic who tells everyone the most important thing is check the oil!). Turned the crankshaft with channel locks and got it going. Have used Mobil 1 0W-30 since then and engine still going 8 yrs later here in Buffalo NY. Also back some years ago in the winter we lost power. I have an old 3.5HP craftsmen 1200 watt generator from the 60's. I had to heat it with my propane heater to start it with straight 30W in it. I switched it to Mobil1 0W-30 and this spring due to a power outage I ran it roughly 12-14hrs a day for 3 days straight on the 0W-30. No problems and still runs great. Don't worry about those motors with muti-V synthetics, they'll treat your motor better than any straight weight oil .Now if I could convince myself to stop using the straight 30 weight oil the manual calls for in my generator and snow blower so they would be easier to start....
Last edited by fecmech; 12-13-2017 at 11:06 AM.
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle
I always sprayed my blower down with WD-40. Shovels too. Kept them from sticking. Bout the only thing it’s good for.
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Not sure, but it sounds pornographic to me. . .What's a snow blower?
Pam also works good in the grass catchers on my grass hopper. But if you pack it full nothing slides it out.
You guys keep mentioning Pam and your snowblower and grass catcher. Do you think you could send her my way? I need someone to clear the snow and mow the grass.
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I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!
http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH
I am not crazy my mom had me tested
Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!
Just called the mower and radiator shop in Howell that works on my stuff and he said he puts 10W-30 in for snow blowers. Since he did the oil change recently I'll figure that is what I'll pick up a quart of to keep it topped off. Next time I get the garage warm I think I'll do an oil change on the generator and do at least 10W-30 if not a synthetic for ease of starting. It isn't so much oil I can't change weights between winter and summer if I think I need to, and I do like the idea of the same oil can be used to top off or change multiple pieces of equipment.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
RD--If you go to the oil mfgr web sites and pull up the specifications on the various oils you will see that 0W,5W and 10W-30 oils and straight 30W oils all have pretty much the same viscosity at operating temperature. The big difference is at cold temperatures where the 30wt is like molasses and the 0W and5W pour freely. The multi V Synthetics do not thin out at temp like the standard straight weight oils.
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle
You guys keep mentioning Pam and your snowblower and grass catcher. Do you think you could send her my way? I need someone to clear the snow and mow the grass.
A hot tardy and she may do windows and a short stint with the vacuum.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |