The thermocoupler on my PID died and I need a new one, the old e-bay source has died anyone have a new source?
The thermocoupler on my PID died and I need a new one, the old e-bay source has died anyone have a new source?
If you don't mind waiting you can get good prices @ AliExpress
Also check Auber Instruments.
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
PM (with source) sent to Bushrat.
To everyone reading this, please do not post ebay links, as we don't allow that.
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“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
Thanks all solved the problem but have no new information. Contacted my friend who built my PID and he is sending me new one. He has several on hand but orginal source has dried up too.
If you buy from amazon most come directly from Chiner. ORDER SPARES. My experience is 30% failure rate. But at 1/10 the cost of buying local I don't mind. I always order minimum 3.
What about relays?
I buy everything from amazon. Buy two or three of everything. Amazon always refunds for the ones that don't work
I understand not allowing it in the S&S section. People liking to their own auctions was a way to get around the rules. But why ban them from other forums? They can be very helpful for questions like this.
The last ones I bought were from eBay. Found a seller that was located and shipped from the US. I bought ten of them. Haven't had any fail since then
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
I don't think I've heard of or read of anyone having a SSR fail, that is, after the PID was tested and up and running.
Although, some of the cheap Asian components may arrive defective, or if accidentally connected incorrectly they can fail...but the nature of a SSR, if they aren't overheated, they should last almost indefinitely.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
My feedback page if you feel inclined to add:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-Shooter
Thanks Yall!
K type ...YES.
I use the 4" (100mm)
but some use the 6" (150mm).
It depends on how you mount them in the furnace. I just use a "spring" type mount like the Lyman thermometer has, for clipping it temporarily to the side of the Lee pot, and I try to have it positioned to monitor the temperature as near to the spout as posible.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
lol....my mount is just a wire hanger I bent into shape and attached to the mold guide post. Keeps the thermocouple in the middle of my pot and away from the sides. Actually now that you mention it I think I have a 6" in the lead pot and 4" in the toaster. I sometimes have to let it autotune for a few cycles before it's accurate after swapping between sources but it works like a champ in large batches.
My feedback page if you feel inclined to add:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-Shooter
Thanks Yall!
Every electronic device has a MTBF rating.
This is the average time it take for the part to break or fail. Mean Time Between Failure
On a SSR that rating is over a MILLION cycles.
On a standard relay that rating in around 100K cycles.
I am not saying the SSR will never have to be replaced because it will eventually.
If you search for this "3m Stainless Steel Probe K type Sensors High Temperature Thermocouple 10ft" you will find what your looking for.
Its a US seller and is under$6 shipped
My mount is the flexible wire you can buy at Home Depot. I use that stuff for all types of things. It's secured under one of the screws on top of the pot. What I found is temp varies quite a bit in the pot depending on the location. I settled on right by the spout. This is the temp of the lead actually being poured. It's kind of a moot point because you want repeatability more than anything. You just need to know the temp setting that works for you.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |