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Thread: N Frame Cylinder Problem.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    N Frame Cylinder Problem.

    Recently ran into a problem with my nice 6 inch 25-5. After firing several rounds, the cylinder becomes hard to rotate - both single action and double action. With no cases in the cylinder, I can move the cylinder forward and back. It goes from having a cylinder gap with the barrel when I push the cylinder back, to having no cylinder gap when I push it forward. So the case rims are causing the cylinder to move forward, eliminating the cylinder gap. End Shake, Yes? So now the question is: can a local good gunsmith fix this, or is this a job for the Smith and Wesson repair shop? Thanks.

    Don
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    I think it was Ron Power who started selling end shake spacers, or washers, that went between your crane and cylinder to move the cylinder back off the barrel. Another way is to use a crane stretcher to lengthen the crane barrel for the same effect.

    Brownells has 'em: http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts...-prod9858.aspx

  3. #3
    Boolit Bub
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    don't know what your load is but a really light load will back the primers out. same deal when firing primer only cases.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 427smith View Post
    don't know what your load is but a really light load will back the primers out. same deal when firing primer only cases.
    That's true, but the problem remains that there is zero cylinder gap when the cylinder is forward and none of my other revolvers are like that and they digest light loads without tying up the cylinder.

    Don
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  5. #5
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    Is this a new revolver, or have you owned it for awhile, shot it before, and this problem just developed?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Not a new revolver. I've had it for 7 years and it has just now developed this problem. I'm going to order those end shake spacers and give it a go.
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  7. #7
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    Don,

    Be sure to check for debris under the star, too. Sometimes gunk gets caught up under the ejector and can cause similar problems.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy

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    USSR,
    Your 625 should be covered by S&Ws lifetime warranty. If may be worth your time to give them a call.

    eveready
    eveready

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I had the same thing with a S&W M25 30 years ago, it was the the old Unique which much dirtier than today's Unique. If BreakFree existed, I didn't know about it. I doubt that's your issue.
    My bet would be crud under the ejector star.
    Check to see if your ejector has backed out.

  10. #10
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    Yes, seen it many times. opened the gun and wiped under the star with a rag, never seen anything but it fixed it.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


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    I think it to be clear that ejector star crud cannot be the main problem here. A properly fit revolver cylinder cannot be moved forward by hand to contact the barrel. Cleaning under the ejector cannot solve that problem, but the Power shims will.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    One thing to note, if the cylinder is pushed forward on a revolver that has a film of oil on the rear of the barrel and cylinder, the oil can bridge and block out all light making it look like there is no contact. I have noticed this before, but not many of my S&W's are that tight

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by eveready View Post
    USSR,
    Your 625 should be covered by S&Ws lifetime warranty. If may be worth your time to give them a call.

    eveready
    It's not a 625, it's a 25-5 made in 1981.

    Don
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  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nueces View Post
    I think it to be clear that ejector star crud cannot be the main problem here. A properly fit revolver cylinder cannot be moved forward by hand to contact the barrel. Cleaning under the ejector cannot solve that problem, but the Power shims will.
    Exactly, Nueces. The first thing I did was clean behind the ejector star. No, I definitely have an end shake problem. My cylinder gap goes from 0.0" with the cylinder pushed forward, to 0.008" with the cylinder pushed to the rear. The End Shake shims are on the way. I will have to remove the ejector rod which I believe is a left hand thread. So, I will turn it to the right to remove it, yes?

    Don
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Be sure to place an empty case in a chamber before trying to unscrew your ejector

  16. #16
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    Waiting on spacers or rather bearing for a 1917 that did exactly the same thing .. .011 up tight on an AR case . I'm pretty sure whatever warranty I had is used up . On a lighter note it's pretty easy to fix and get the head space correct too.
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  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Received my end shake spacers from Midway yesterday. I will be installing them next weekend. Will let you know how this plays out.

    Don
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  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I hope the spacer install resolves the problem.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by USSR View Post
    Not a new revolver. I've had it for 7 years and it has just now developed this problem. I'm going to order those end shake spacers and give it a go.
    The problem arising so suddenly is what would make me wonder. Yes, it might be debris under the extractor. That wouldn't force the front of the cylinder up against the barrel, but if you are mistaken about seeing that, it could be forcing the case heads up against the breech face.

    Another possibility is that there was already a shim, and it got lost in disassembly.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ballistics in Scotland View Post
    The problem arising so suddenly is what would make me wonder. Yes, it might be debris under the extractor. That wouldn't force the front of the cylinder up against the barrel, but if you are mistaken about seeing that, it could be forcing the case heads up against the breech face.

    Another possibility is that there was already a shim, and it got lost in disassembly.

    Cleaned under the extractor, and definitely not mistaken about there being no clearance between the barrel and cylinder with the cylinder pushed forward. There was never any disassembly done to this revolver over the 7 years that I have owned and shot it, so no shim could have been lost. It just appears that shooting it over the years has resulted in this condition.

    Don
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