Anybody here ever get a 80 per cent AR lower and finish it out? How did you do it, and which milling jig did you use?
Anybody here ever get a 80 per cent AR lower and finish it out? How did you do it, and which milling jig did you use?
Just a thought, but you might look at the Frontier Armory 80%-er. They sell a complete 3-piece jig set which makes it pretty easy using a drill press.
I have done a few the one from Tactical Machine have done the best using there jig and a milling machine.
As of 7-22-2016 you are likely engaging in "manufacturing" by completing an 80% lower. Just sayin'
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if one reads the document seen here, in it's entirety, taken as a whole, one can see that individuals making something for themselves are not the subject. If one takes a sentence or paragraph out of context of the entire document, it is easy to be confused. It is also important to understand that the Directorate of Defense Trade Controls (DDTC) only has jurisdiction over International Traffic in Arms Regulations , not domestic.
https://www.pmddtc.state.gov/complia...ufacturers.pdf
hope this helps
shunka
Those who do not learn from the past are doomed to repeat it.
I bought one that uses a router and a special milling bit. Works pretty good. Bought a blem billet lower for $30, came out really nice.
I've done a few ar15 lowers with the TM jig and one ar10 with an Aim Small jig. The TM ar15 jig I have is an older model and is almost idiot proof. The Aim Small AR10 jig wouldn't work on the Blitzkrieg (TM) lower without some work, but I knew that going in as there is no standard for ar10 type lowers. Back to ar15's. I have used several different manufacturers mil-spec type 80% lowers without issue in the TM jig and would recommend it. I have also laid out the FCG pocket on the top deck of a lower in dykem and just milled it paying attention to the dials. With the TM jig you only have to pay attention to the depth and making sure the jigs top plate is going to run against the smooth section of the end mill stub so it doesn't also cut the top plate. If the lower you get already has the rear takedown lug recess cut out (so that an upper can be pinned on even though the lower isn't finished) all you need to cut is the 1.249" deep section of the FCG pocket. In any case drill out most of the pockets with large drill bits first so you're not removing so much material with the end mills. Makes it go so much faster on a manual machine. Leave the last .010" to .015" of depth and length/width for a final clean up pass so the pocket looks smooth. The machine I use is one of the green harbor freight drill/mills that weigh 720#. I'd like to upgrade to a knee mill, but for now this one has done everything I've asked of it. Unless you're making a bunch of them the cost savings isn't there like it was years ago. The just because or cool factor is there though, especially since you can engrave it however you want.
Can you buy a 80%'r that DOESN'T have a forward assist slot?
Two weeks ago I saw 80% receivers at the Cocoa gun show for $50. They looked like a lot of work was needed to get them workable, More than I felt comfortable with.
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I was in Ocean Side Ca. and went here. 80% lowers were all they sold.
I looked into it a few times. I guess I have built guns from bar stock before and it just didn't make sense to jump through the hoops for something everyone and there siblings has already done.
I couldn't find the energy to pay more for an unfinished 80% lower than a completed one with a nice finish cost less.
I don't really care about a "paper trail" as the NFA branch already knows where I live and when I transport my "Taxed" toys and there is already paper on lots of stuff I no longer have because I legally sold it off in the past (with no additional paper FWIW).
If you don't mind a polymer lower, Midway is having a sale on Polymer 80 80%ers for the AR-15, AR-10, and a Glock 17 clone... http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=polymer+80
The AR15 is going for 62.99, and comes with the jig and all tools needed (except the tool press or mill). It was easy to machine.
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Another plug for Tactical, they have a very nice jig set up and will sell the "blemished" lowers reasonably to practice the milling on... the "blems" are drilled so that you can't use them for an actual firearm, but it is a very nice confidence builder.
They did a demo with a hand held router and their bit set... very slick. http://www.tacticalmachining.com/80-...ar15-jigs.html
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I've made two. Mainly to see if I could do it. In the climate now, I'd just buy finished lowers. But it can be done without a machine shop
The new(est) Brownells has the Andersens for $49.00.
NOTE to membership: the lack of a serial number or registration is the primary reason I would buy and complete a few. Not the issue it was before Trump.
I have seen a few polymers with durability issues if fired much or fast.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |