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Last edited by Phineas Bluster; 01-28-2020 at 10:26 PM.
Toilet bowl cleaner works good too.
I use CLR on rusty molds. I bet it would do a good gob removing bluing.
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
More at: http://reloadingtips.com/
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
- Henry Ford
I tried a spot of naval jelly on a Norinco frame and the bluing remained. I will try the citric acid trick and THANK YOU!!
vinegar works well too . . . . full strength.
Or just have the fire dept. spray it with the foam additive they put in their water.
One dunk and no more blue.
Found out about vinegar accidentally. It sure does work well on bluing removal though.
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
muriatic is pretty cheap at home depot. it's in the garden section. 2 gallons lasts a lifetime. Just have to rinse REALLY well. And talk about speed, it's not 12 days or 12 minutes or even 12 seconds. That blue is just GONE!
I see where you can pay extra for cap and ball revolvers that have an "antiqued" finish. Take a cotton ball and some vinegar and for next to nothing you can make them look they were carried from Ft Sumter to Appomattox Court House. The bluing wipes right off leaving a dull gray finish.
Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting
Evaporust removes blue and rust nicely.
Make no mistake -- They will remember how easily you surrendered your rights.
Outstanding posts from you guys....thanks! Paul
When guns are outlawed only criminals and the government will have them and at that time I will see very little difference in either!
"Within the covers of the Bible are the answers for all the problems man faces." President Ronald Reagan
"We must reject the idea that every time a law's broken, society is guilty rather than the law breaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is acoutable for his actions." Presdent Ronald Reagan
Gorgeous job on the shotgun!
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
Muriatic acid simply is hydrochloric, just as spirits of salts is sulphuric, sold under less menacing-sounding names. Fairly dilute hydrochloric should be cheap and will remove bluing without excessive texturing of the surface, but I have seen it said that it may promote after-rusting. I doubt if that will be a problem if it is well washed in hot and clean water, and oiled if you plan keeping it unblued for a while. If you plan immediate rust-bluing, where is the harm in light rusting?
Naval jelly is phosphoric acid or phosphoric with additives of minimal importance. Phosphoric would be my choice for items without inaccessible crannies, or hydrochloric if there are. On my universal purveyor of the peculiar, eBay UK, you can get five litres of phosphoric acid for £13.85 and postage. That is 85% strength, which is slightly jelly-like, but it could be diluted. I can't see why availability or price would be very different on the US site. It leaves a very fine pearly texture which I have found blues well after rubbing down with fine steel wool, as it has the reputation of slight passivating against rust. Just a guess, but this might become worse if the solution has been excessively used, as it occurs by the formation and deposition of phosphates.
I wouldn't use sulphuric, although it is available anywhere people work with car batteries, and certainly not nitric acid, which is extremely likely to etch steel. Unless of course you want it etched, either for texture or to leave raised lettering, patterns etc., which it will do very effectively on steel. Enamel paint or Letraset transfer lettering will do this very nicely.
Last edited by Ballistics in Scotland; 07-24-2016 at 04:22 AM.
Actually it's a bad idea to even have Muriatic acid in the shop, never mind wiping it on gun steel! The reason is that just the fumes from the stuff will cause rusting of anything in the shop containing iron, tools, guns, machinery, etc. It can logically be argued that as long as the container is sealed tight nothing happens but using that stuff inside a shop for most any purpose is just asking for trouble. Now the problem with using it on gun steel, even in it's diluted form, is that it's still nasty stuff as far it's rust promoting nature and while it will indeed remove bluing and rust it also starts a chemical reaction with the iron surface that is not as easy to stop as some might think, it can and will come back to bite you later! Washing THOROUGHLY may, or may not, get it all out of every nook and cranny so it should be washed with a base solution such as backing soda and water but even neutralizing any remnants of the acid by doing that leaves the surface still highly prone to rusting, that chemical reaction is not all that easy to stop completely. Then there is the question of why use the stuff in the first place? Your suggestion of Phosphoric acid is a MUCH better choice, it will instantly remove the blue and the surface reaction will be just the opposite of the Muriatic acid and will become rust resistant instead of rust prone. This rust resistant surface is very easily removed and will completely disappear during normal surface prep and in no way will inhibit the rust or hot bluing process, any left in microscopic pits will serve only to retard rust instead of CAUSING it! The bottom line is there many dirt cheap and easily obtainable products out there that will remove bluing as completely and quickly as Muriatic acid but without that product's nasty and just plain evil nature, a person will do well to keep that stuff as far away from their guns as they can no matter what the dilution, with all the better choices available there's just no good reason to use it!
Statistics show that criminals commit fewer crimes after they have been shot
Looks beautiful. It gives me the warm and fuzzies when I see my product being used and hearing feedback.
I have about 2 cases left of the rust blue left, but I haven't made more, since I'm not actively selling on the forum anymore because I'm moving to a new state. PM me if you want a bottle.
Andy
"As democracy is perfected, the office of the President represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day, the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be occupied by a downright fool and complete narcissistic moron."
H.L. Mencken
Great job on the High Standard, those are some of my favorite shotguns!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |