simple Hi-Tek coating

[Beagle333]

It should be lino. Lino isn't like pure... it is very hard.

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletAlloy.htm
Scroll down about half a page and it tells you all about linotype.
(starts just below the chart)

[HI-TEK]

It should be lino. Lino isn't like pure... it is very hard.

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletAlloy.htm
Scroll down about half a page and it tells you all about linotype.
(starts just below the chart)

Thank you for the data page. It is very good information contained in the various articles.
It will be very useful to many.
It clearly explains many areas well. It is definitely worth a look.

[Beagle333]

If you ever lose it, you can find it again by looking in the Lead and Lead Alloy's section. It is a sticky there named The Definitive Answer page for Lead and Alloys! . Third one from the bottom of the stickies. (at time of this posting)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...d-lead-alloy-s

[HI-TEK]

If you ever lose it, you can find it again by looking in the Lead and Lead Alloy's section. It is a sticky there. Third one from the bottom of the stickies.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...d-lead-alloy-s

Thanks much. Very useful site.
We have had discussions with local alloy maker, and some work was done, to determine optimum alloy mix to satisfy various engineering requirements, mainly for rifle use.
They were surprised at some results obtained with a simple smash test of various alloy mixtures, that were assumed to be OK, and they did not perform well.
We were looking at deformation properties of alloys with impact.

[gunoil]

Iam trying to perfect:
1) l have long pig ingot (i can put into 1/2lb)
2) l have picked ww's
3) l have pure rolled up lead sheets from xray room.

Need a mix recipe, all of above in 1 lb ingots or 1/2 lb..

[Beagle333]

I suggest downloading Bumpo's lead calculator from the first post in the link below. You can modify the spreadsheet with 1/2 and 1# increments of the above mentioned alloys (there is a column for each one you have), until you get the desired hardness that you are looking for. Just change the numbers around until you are happy with the results. Then you will know exactly how much of each to add to a pot. (It gives the total weight and hardness of whichever mix you select, at the bottom of the chart.)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oy-calculators

When it loads, it has some values already in there for pure tin, pure lead, and clip-on WW.... just put a zero in the box for tin, and change the numbers for linotype (your pig ingot), clip-on WW and pure lead, until you like the values at the bottom.

[Ausglock]

Gunslick.
I'll give you $10 + $10 postage for you to send it to me.

[klcarroll]

Hey KLCarrol, welcome to the thread.
Hi-Tek is something that works. Saved me from going the grease route when I started casting.
Couple of questions. What alloy are you using? Is that the Lee TL 309-230-5R Mold?

I'm just using the last of my clip-on wheel weight alloy for these boolits; ....And yes. it is the Lee TL 309-230-5R Mold.

I sure wish they made a six cavity version of that guy! I'm currently running two of the double cavity molds, but "more-per-minute" would really be nice.

I had my doubts about a cast boolit with a boat-tail configuration, ....but the previously mentioned load shoots far better than I do these days! (I have yet to find an upside to this "getting old" ****!!)

KLC

[gunoil]

oh no ausglock, pig stays here. How bout that recipe mix that u would use with these three leads?

[gunoil]

I suggest downloading Bumpo's lead calculator from the first post in the link below. You can modify the spreadsheet with 1/2 and 1# increments of the above mentioned alloys (there is a column for each one you have), until you get the desired hardness that you are looking for. Just change the numbers around until you are happy with the results. Then you will know exactly how much of each to add to a pot. (It gives the total weight and hardness of whichever mix you select, at the bottom of the chart.)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oy-calculators

When it loads, it has some values already in there for pure tin, pure lead, and clip-on WW.... just put a zero in the box for tin, and change the numbers for linotype (your pig ingot), clip-on WW and pure lead, until you like the values at the bottom.

Ok thanks, l'll give it a whirl. My sprool plate has to be pecked off with a lil hammer. My mix is hard i guess and i use prob best mold ever, the hardline molds. W/RCBS pro-melt.

[ioon44]

Popper. If I was you, I'd try one of the metallic coatings. EG: Texas Tea, red copper, Gold 1035.
ioon44. The alloy has to be at 185deg C for about 3 minutes for the coating to cure. Note: Alloy temp has to be 185Deg C. NOT the actual oven.
I run my ovens at 200Deg C and this allows 2Kg of bullet alloy to get to 185deg C and cure in 10 to 12 minutes overall time in the oven. Zero fails.

Ausglock thanks for the reply and info.
You said ovens, so is it better to use 2 or 3 convection ovens with a single tray or a larger convection oven with 2 or 3 trays?

Looks like the old static oven with a heavy boolit load was not working for me, but one has to start some where.

My last batch of 125gn boolits(12lbs) baked for 11 min for 3 coats of the Black Hi Tek and have worked best so far.
Time to go oven shopping as I don't want to give up on the Hi Tek coating.

[Avenger442]

I'm just using the last of my clip-on wheel weight alloy for these boolits; ....And yes. it is the Lee TL 309-230-5R Mold.

I sure wish they made a six cavity version of that guy! I'm currently running two of the double cavity molds, but "more-per-minute" would really be nice.

I had my doubts about a cast boolit with a boat-tail configuration, ....but the previously mentioned load shoots far better than I do these days! (I have yet to find an upside to this "getting old" ****!!)

KLC

The reason I asked about the mold I was thinking of getting it to use in the 308 Winchester loads for my bolt action rifle. I like the shape of the bullet. If I can find load data from one of the Manufacturers I'll buy it. With that much weight it may be a problem.


Since my hunting is over for the year I've been casting and coating. I'm about to load my first Hi-Tek pistol loads in 45 auto. Hope to have them ready for a range trip next month. I have a new 45 that I haven't shot. May be dedicated Hi-Tek lead bullet gun.

[gunoil]

This helped me alot from Ausglock:

Hi -Tech-Supercoat


1. add 2 bullets to your colour resin and shake for a good 5 minutes.
2. shake the catalyst.
3. empty bottle ready. Add 5 parts colour immediately...IMMEDIATELY... after shaking.
4. Add 7 parts Acetone and then the 1 part catalyst.
5. Put lid on the mixture and shake the schit out of it for 5 minutes. I use 250ml juice bottles with pop-tops on them. easy to add coating to the bullets.
6. Add about 200 bullets( about 2Kgs) to the plastic bucket. lid is NOT needed.
7. Shake the 5-1-7-mix and Immediately add a 1 second dribble to the bucket of bullets. Replace mixture lid Immediately.
8. Shake the bucket of bullets and coating. Remember... you have to have the bullets and coating mixing around just like a cement mixer does. The bottom of the bucket should be wet with coating.
9. Keep shaking, swirling until the rattle of the bullets changes to a dull thumping. you will hear the change really easy.
10. dump the coated bullets onto your drying tray and shake the tray side to side until the bullets have leveled out on the tray. don't worry about them touching. it doesn't matter.
11. If you think there isn't enough colour on the bullet, then you have the coating just right. Leave them alone for at least 10 minutes. then warm them with a hair dryer.
12. turn on your oven and pre-heat to 200deg C.
13. place you bullets on the baking tray and spread them around to be even on the tray and place tray in the oven.
14. set the oven timer for 12 minutes. not 6 or 8. But a full 12 minutes.
15. when the oven turns off, remove the tray of bullets and let them cool. do not touch them until cool.
16. when cool. take 1 bullet. lay it in it's side on a steel base and smash it with a hammer. the coating should not flake off.
17. Take another bullet and get some acetone on a white cloth and wipe the coated bullet for 30 seconds and see if the colour comes off. if it does. place back into oven and bake for another 5 minutes. ( I have found 12 minutes per bake is enough).
18. When the bullets are cool, place back in the bucket and repeat steps 6 to 17.
19. when 2nd coat has cooled and has tested OK, Size and shoot.

[kweidner]

I have messed with a few colors myself. . I keep going back to the gold 1035 for high pressure or faster stuff. I like the brick red color a bunch but it requires a bit higher temp and a bit more cure time. Still works fine. All my production bullets are gold 1035 my personal are black and red. I keep different rifles loads separated by color of boolit for personal stuff too. Subsonic for blackout are well....... black and the supersonic stuff gold. I like the options.

[Sticky]

The reason I asked about the mold I was thinking of getting it to use in the 308 Winchester loads for my bolt action rifle. I like the shape of the bullet. If I can find load data from one of the Manufacturers I'll buy it. With that much weight it may be a problem.


Since my hunting is over for the year I've been casting and coating. I'm about to load my first Hi-Tek pistol loads in 45 auto. Hope to have them ready for a range trip next month. I have a new 45 that I haven't shot. May be dedicated Hi-Tek lead bullet gun.

I have just started casting and that was the first mold I broke out.. I plan primarily to use them in a 300AAC, but... I have a couple 308 AR's that are beggin to try em too, so I probably will play with that this spring.

New to casting and all of the associated processes, but in my research here and elsewhere, I found that many like the Hi-Tek coatings, so... decided to give that and some asbb tumble pc a try. I am very impressed with the HT coatings, took me a few tries to iron out a process, had to change it up a bit for my first run of 452200 HP's from yesterday, but all in all, I am extremely pleased with the results of the dry powder that I got from Bayou Bullets!

Some 309230's



and some 45acp projectiles... man.. ain't they purty?



Thanks to all here that contribute so much. Sure makes it a lot easier to tap on all this experience when just starting out!

[HI-TEK]

I have just started casting and that was the first mold I broke out.. I plan primarily to use them in a 300AAC, but... I have a couple 308 AR's that are beggin to try em too, so I probably will play with that this spring.

New to casting and all of the associated processes, but in my research here and elsewhere, I found that many like the Hi-Tek coatings, so... decided to give that and some asbb tumble pc a try. I am very impressed with the HT coatings, took me a few tries to iron out a process, had to change it up a bit for my first run of 452200 HP's from yesterday, but all in all, I am extremely pleased with the results of the dry powder that I got from Bayou Bullets!

Some 309230's



and some 45acp projectiles... man.. ain't they purty?



Thanks to all here that contribute so much. Sure makes it a lot easier to tap on all this experience when just starting out!

Well done. They look great.
Most happy to assist with any questions.

[Gateway Bullets]

Well guys, my new toy arrived today, and I will be using it to test bullets coated in red copper under extreme conditions. I will post results as soon as I can. This will show the "non-believers" the coating really works and that you can run lead cast through a Glock 18c

Besides......it's just plain old FUN!!!!!

[gunoil]

i done done that for long time on three glocks. Swat team glocksmith here trained in atlanta @ glock factory said with even lead lubed bullets just shoot 150, and then clean. Not even with hitech. Hitech-supercoat = even better.

[ioon44]

I scored a used convection oven that seems to work fine.

Would I be wasting my time to re bake some of the boolits I didn't get right the first time?

Do most guys use one tray per bake?

I also feed three Glocks cast boolits just keep them clean.

[HI-TEK]

I scored a used convection oven that seems to work fine.

Would I be wasting my time to re bake some of the boolits I didn't get right the first time?

Do most guys use one tray per bake?

I also feed three Glocks cast boolits just keep them clean.

Just a quick reply to your question about re-baking matters.
If your first coat does not pass tests, (smash & solvent test) do not coat a second time, as you will not fix faulty first coat.
Once the heat sets first coat, and you get no bonding, (by failing smash test after bake), it is quite a possibility, that either you did not dry coating adequately or applied too much coating, (or both) before you baked.
Before you coat a second time, the first coat must be bonded to pass smash test and not flake off.
Just a quick hint, to save you work and materials, simply test only a couple of your dried projectiles and bake them first.
After baking, if they pass smash test,and solvent test, then go ahead and bake the rest, as the rest should also bake OK.
Please allow room for good air circulation around tray of bullets, and do not overload oven, as this will interfere with bake time and will not provide even baking across tray. If you over load tray or do not get even heating to all projectiles, some will be cooked well and others will fail.
Unfortunately, if you have coated and baked and get failures, it is a re-melt job.
Hope this helps