Would Pewter be to soft?
To have a truly beautyful rifle, one needs to see beyond the lines. I can build a serviceable gun but as Helmut Moluer (sp) told me, only an American would shoot an ugly gun. Most that I know are notso blunt but I know it is true, and I have handled guns he builds, for a German target rifle of the archaic age they are deceptively light from their apperance.
In other words I can cut away most of what is not a gun, but if I go futher I get expensive fire wood.
Don't buy nuthing you can't take home
Joel 3:10
I feel exactly the same way about checkering on any modern wood stocked firearm available today.
simply NOT needed, and usually has flaws that I'd rather not see.
there even was on shown in a gun rag by Stan Troniec (?) made by the "Gun Makers Guild" guys, for his section. The inletting was scary bad, and the checkering not only attrocious, but gaudy also. You'd think on a $5000 gun, the guy would take a few extra minutes to do it right!
Nope, nothing more beautiful than a nice piece of wood, with a smooth finish, and a well applied oil finish.
And I can't even tell the difference between oil and other finishes... some look as nice as oil.
I am ONLY responsible for what I Say!
I am NOT responsible for what You THINK I Said!
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If numbers killed I'd hunt with a Calculator!
I am ONLY responsible for what I Say!
I am NOT responsible for what You THINK I Said!
====
If numbers killed I'd hunt with a Calculator!
Duke, I'm suspecting none of us have had experience with pewter furniture, but I am sure it must have been done sometime in the past. It would of course look like dull lead after some time.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
I'm not waksupi but many times on the originals the smith or maker just left the iron polished without any further finish. During rushed wartime production that was very common. That is called 'bright' or something similar. Some makers however treated the iron to produce what we call a blued finish of sorts and sometimes they would brown the iron parts for a browned finish. When left bright and polished I don't think is was meant to resist rust necessarily but maybe it was easier to wipe down and oil. Over time those bright parts and/or barrels take on a thin film of rust patina. But that type bright finish sometimes doesn't corrode or rust evenly. Fast forward 100-200 years. Even if wiped and oiled and cared for- the bright iron can take on a blotchy appearance. As long as deep rust pitting hasn't attacked the metal it doesn't bother me so much. If on the other hand the metal and likely the bore has deep pits, I shy away or simple call it an artifact or wall hanger.
Trust but verify the honeyguide
I'm interested in building a "poor boy" or Appalachian Mountain style flintlock from a kit.
Any suggestions as to where to find kits that are of good quality?
Hmm no replies? There are at least two custom makers here that might chime in. You can get parts from several different sources around the country. You can mix and match parts but if you don't have a lot of experience building these things I'd stay with a kit. I've built a few over the years for my use but am no custom maker by any stretch. I think for the average handy type amateur builder, a kit from one source and with support from the one company is a good idea. I think Track of the Wolf is as good as any. You can search their site for all manner of info and photos and current examples. Here's a link to a series of photos of a Southern Mountain type (also called Tennessee type, etc.). It is cap lock but you can glean style ideas when looking at the comparable flint kits. I'd really study the kit parts and options then when ready call on the phone and talk to a rep.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Catego...E-TENN-16-PERC
Trust but verify the honeyguide
I found this fella here on the forum. Nice rifles.. http://www.jimfilipski.com/
IMHO yes - I have done 6 or 7 pewter nose caps for Hawken style rifles. Relatively easy to damage them. I can’t see pewter being durable enough for a butt plate.
http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/Ya...num=1366388037
I have always liked the real French Gray not the current plated
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/...p?topic=3353.0
http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/Ya...num=1266957960
Last edited by M-Tecs; 03-29-2014 at 12:40 AM.
The Brown Bess Musket was kept clean and bright.troopers where issued with Brick Dust to scour the metal work, when mixed with water brick dust will polish the metal.The mixture usually seeped into the Stock imparting a dark red to brown colour.When linseed Oil was applied the finish became permanent.So from a plain utility weapon the cleaning and oiling transformed the Bess into a thing of beauty.
A piece of crushed and powdered House Brick is abrasive and makes a good scourer.
Is it free to dream or window shop today? I hope so. I'm broke at the moment.
Granted they look pretty and back in their day they were somewhat usable because there wasn't anything better but with todays technology why would you want one? A lot of work for something to gather dust as it sits in its holder above the fireplace?
Who lets them sit lol. Use it and enjoy it.
Andy
We used to use a piece of chared wood from the camp fire for polishing the barrel on the Springfield musket during down time
The rules of the range are simple at best, Should you venture in that habitat, Don't cuss a man's dog, be good to the cook, And don't mess with a cowboy's hat. ~ Baxter Black
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |